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1920s Berliner STYL Letter from the editor Cordelia Bellinghausen From my open-air office on the Strasse just outside the gateway to 1920s Berlin Project, I have the perfect vantage point from which to observe a continuous parade of women going about their day. I’ve noticed a great transformation happening in fashion. It started right after the end of the First World War (WWI) when we women began working outside the home. Where once the rules for dress were very strict, today it’s acceptable to adopt a much more natural and relaxed style. Today, the “Neue Frau” (New Woman) leads a much freer life, including active sports participation. In the 1920s we have lots of new styles in fashion, but also in machines and technologies. How very “moderne” we are with our telephones, radios and automobiles. Here in Berlin I’ve seen any number of ladies behind the wheel speeding along; dressed for the open air. 1.


And who among us has not heard the news of Marga von Etzdorf, who in 1927 was the first German woman to pass licensing examinations for commercial, glider, sports and stunt flying? This is a time when women not only think differently, but behave differently. We still want to be admired for our beauty and the stylishness of our ensembles, but our new mobility demands that our clothing be functional too. The keyword is streamlined. Where once it was all about the bosom, nowadays, the 1920s fashions ignore the waist and breasts. Skirt length is abbreviated, and what we used to push up with corsets, we now flatten with bras and bodices. In desperation to have a boyishly slim figure, some women suppress their hunger with “opium, diets, and nicotine”. Who could have imaginged that pajamas would be a style now worn by women for night-wear, and short bobbed-hair would look young and carefree on ladies at any age? This first issue of 1920s Berliner STYL Magazin features select looks from the most creative SL designers. In Berlin of this era, women and men dressed elegantly with flair. This magazine is written, photographed, and edited with those qualities foremost on every page.

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1920s Berliner STYL DER FRULING / DER SOMMER MODE JOURNAL #1

TABLE OF CONTENTS Lettre from the Editor......................................................................2 Guten Morgen....................................................................................16 Reisen...................................................................................................24 Lernen..................................................................................................30 Guten Tag............................................................................................36 Nacht Vogel.........................................................................................42 Tanz und Singen.................................................................................49 Glitzern Palast....................................................................................54 What’s Fashionable Now.................................................................62 STYL Sprechen / Deutsch Vocabulary...........................................67 Louise Brooks: New Woman in Weimar Cinema.......................70


Guten Morgen 16.


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Guten Morgen: Photographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at Schumann Allee, 1920s Berlin Project.

On the cover:

Floral Sunrise ensemble by Sonatta Morales Includes: hat, gloves, scarf, blouse, skirt available at Sonatta Morales Weird Couture, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500) Day Dress Betty ensemble by Kembri Tomsen white with blue polka-dot. Includes: hat, gloves, stockings, and dress. available at Greenwood Designs at Blisswood (68,228,24) Lillian Poplin floral dress by Mila Edelman available at Old Time Prims, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) Rose floral box cloche hat by Bubbles Roxan available at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project Dudintsev (92,77,500) Woven Straw Totebag with flowers available at Curio, Curio (128,128,37) All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui available at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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1920s Berliner STYL EDITOR IN CHIEF Zeno McAuley CREATIVE DIRECTOR Gstone Turas FASHION EDITOR Cordelia Bellinghausen EDITOR AT LARGE Padraica Yatsenko PUBLISHER Gstone Turas 24 Magdalenenstrasse 1920s Berlin Project Published Semi-Annually as a Supplement to 1920s Berliner Post Newspaper

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Reisen 24.


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Reisen Photographed by Zeno McAuley on Location at Mitteleuropaische Reiseburo, 1920s Berlin Project.

Blue Elise Dress by Bubbles Roxan Includes: hat, white kid gloves, fur stole available at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500) Vintage Luggage and Travel Posters available at Mitteleuropaische Reiseburo, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev 992,77,500) Beach in Navy by Katrina Pugilist White with navy trim sailor ensemble compiled from a Victorian Bathing costume. Includes: blouse, skirt, anchor earrings and necklace. available at Kat’s Meow Costumes, Caledon, Highlands (162,161,41) Red Beret with blond hair by Bubbles Roxan available at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500) All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui available at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Lernen 30.


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Lernen Photographed by Zeno McAuley on Location at Offentliche Bibliothek, 1920s Berlin Project.

Madison Black and Yellow Dress by L’ Abel available at Ivalde Vintage & Retro Fashion (92,122,28) Black and Yellow box cloche hat by Bubbles Roxan available at The Milinery Shoppe, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500) Fur Stole and Bracelets by Donna Flora available at Donna Flora, Bonin (194,130,22) Gwen Belted Sweater, with Dotty Red Tie by Tres Blah available at Tres Blah, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25) Harvest Bloom Pleated Skirt in black by *Icing* available at Icing, Mischief Cove, Mischief (130,157,23) Eyeglasses available at RC Cluster, Salchicka Harbor (197,179,45) Gold Earrings by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui available free at Nouveau (65,63,30) All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui available at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Guten Tag 36.


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Guten Tag Photographed by Gstone Turas on Location at Hotel Nussbaum, 1920s Berlin Project. Merle’s Flapper Dress in copper by Cartunno Couture The Great Gatsby Collection Includes: dress, and headpiece available at Cartunno Couture - Period Clothing in Terric (211,87,21) Long Beaded Bow Pearl Necklace by Paper Couture available at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25) Meant for Him Dress in lavender by Cartunno Couture Singing in the Rain Collection Includes: dress and shoulder capelet available at Cartunno Couture - Period Clothing in Terric (211,87,21) Geometric Crystal Chandelier Earrings by Paper Couture Water Over Wine Ring by Paper Couture available at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25) All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui available at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Nacht Vogel 42.


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Nacht Vogel Photographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at Schumann Allee, 1920s Berlin Project. Peonies 1920s Evening Gown by Kembri Tomsen Includes: Peacock Headpiece available at Greenwood Designs at Blisswood (68,228,24) Pearl Necklace, 1, 2, or 3 strands by Curio Available at Curio, Curio (128,128,37) Olga green beaded dress by L’ Abel available at Ivalde Vintage & Retro Fashion (92,122,28) Pearl Fruit Earrings by Paper Couture available at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25) All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui available at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Tanz und Singen 48.


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Tanz und Singen Photographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at Der Keller Tanzlokal, 1920s Berlin Project. Pink Melba Sunrise Gown by Donna Flora available at Donna Flora Boutique, Bonin (194,130,22) Geometric Crystal Chandelier Earrings by Paper Couture Water Over Wine Ring by Paper Couture available at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25) Crystal Gown by Sonatta Morales *8* Includes: Jewelry, stockings, Ostrich plume headpiece and fan available at Sonatta Morales Weird Couture, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500) All shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui available at Nouveau (65,63,30)

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Glitzern Palast 54.


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Glitzern Palast Photographed by Zeno McAuley and Gstone Turas on Location at UFA ASTA Cinema lobby, and a Private Residence Schumann Allee, 1920s Berlin Project, Charity Gold Lame Evening Dress by Kembri Tomsen The 7 Virtues Collection available at Greenwood Designs at Blisswood (68,228,24) Vintage Parakeet Feather shrug by Paper Couture Sapphire Sequined Starlet Evening Dress by *Icing* Includes: Fascinator feather headpiece available at Icing, Mischief Cove, Mischief (130,157,23) Fishnet wrapped Black Pearls by Paper Couture available at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25) Satin Flapper Shoes by Mila Edelman 1920s Flapper Dress Cecille by Mila Edelman Flapper Brass and Pearl Headpiece by Mila Edelman all available at Old Time Prims, 1920s Berlin Project, Dudintsev (92,77,500) Noir and Gold Earrings and Necklace by Paper Couture Bird Ring by Paper Couture available at Paper Couture, Tableau, Tableau (73,46,25) All other shoes by L & E, Lassitude & Ennui available at Nouveau (65,63,30) 61.


What’s Fashionable Now: The “Flapper Girl” silhouette is born. Other signature styles are transparent materials like chiffon, and any material that drapes beautifully. Trim decorations and embellishments like glass pearls, and silk fringes on dresses, and blouses are all the rage. Now uncovered, the lower leg is the central focus and errogenous zone. Stylish hosiery is an important part of any ensemble. Opaque tights in white or blush; real silk or artificial silk stockings are now readily available and inexpensive. I’ve noticed that often women don’t wear tights or stockings at all, and instead they show bare legs, and bare backs!

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ACCESSORIES of the 1920s OBJECTS: Cigarette-holder, strings of pearls, large cocktail rings, jewelry, handbags, compact, gloves, cigarettecase and boa or fan made of plume feathers., HATS: Cloche hats worn low over the brow, and for evening, turbans, silk head scarves tied with ends worn to one side, headbands embellished with embroidery, beadwork, and feather plumes. Hats with wide elliptical brims at the front and side, are often brimless at the nape of the neck. MAKE-UP: Cosmetics are now popular: Red lipstick for the mouth, powder and rouge (a round splodge). Eyebrows are picked and a black line is drawn, green or blue eye-shadow, black eyeliner and fake eyelashes with a diamond are used.

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SHOES: The “Mary-Jane� style with narrow rounded-toe and cross strap or t-strap in leather and suede for day. Heel height is not more than two inches. In the evening women wear jewelled evening shoes in silk and satin (dancing shoes). Heel height is low not more than two inches. HAIR: The styling is short hair; bobbed hair-curled, or straight with bangs. All cuts are above the shoulder line, and most are above the chin-line.

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STYL Sprechen FASHION VOCABULARY (1920-1930) English/German adjustable strap - verstellbaren Riemchen annèes folles - andere Bezeichnung für die 20er baggy - sackartig bell-shaped - glockig belt - Gürtel blouse - Bluse bobbed hair - Bubikopf button - Knopf calf - Waden coat - Mantel collar - Kragen corsets -Korsett cover - bedecken cuff -Manschette decade - Zeitraum embroidery - Strickarbeit 67.


STYL Sprechen FASHION VOCABULARY (1920-1930)

English/German fur - Pelz glass pearls - Glasperlen low neckline - Decolletés material - Stoff petticoat - Unterrock silk-fibre - Seidenfransen skin - Haut strap -Träger tight-fitting - enganliegend tight - Strumpf to fall - fallen to flatten -flachdrücken to last - dauern upper part - Oberteil waist - Taille wool-combination - Baumwollkombination 68.


1920s Accessories Sprechen English / German a round splodge - runder Fleck bobble-hair - Bubikopf cigarette-case - Zigarrettenetui cigarette-holder - Zigarretenspitze compact - Puderdose fake eyelashes - falsche Wimpern fan-plum - Straußenfederfächer head-scarf - Kopftuch string of pearls - Perlenkette to pick- zupfen Sources Boucher, Francois: 20,000 Years of Fashion. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1966. Seeling, Charlotte: Mode - das Jahrhundert der Designer. Köln: Könemann, 1999. Lehnert, Gertrud: Schnellkurs Mode. Köln: Dumont, 1998.

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American Louise Brooks stars in the 1929 film Pandora’s Box, directed by German Georg Wilhelm Pabst in his New Objectivity period. The film is based on two plays by Frank Wedekind (Erdgeist and Die Büchse der Pandora) and Brooks plays the central figure Lulu. This film is notorious for its frank treatment of modern sexual mores, including the first screen portrayal of a lesbian. It a very “adult” film and considered shocking for its portrayals of sexuality, as well as for its cutting social satire. LuLu is a STYL REVOLUTIONARY!

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