Trekking The Heritage Of Bario
Te x t b y
ED JUNAIDI ABU BAKAR
I m e g e s b y D I S H E N K U M A R & S A R AWA K TOURISM BOARD
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Forty minutes after leaving Miri Airport on MASWings DHC-6 Twin Otter, we approach Kelabit Highlands. Still sleepy from the Kuala Lumpur-to-Miri morning flight earlier, I peek from the aircraft window and witness the great aerial view of Batang Baram (Baram River), Malaysia’s second longest river that originates from Kelabit Highlands and home to many Orang Ulu tribes, including Kayan, Kenyah, Berawan, and the shy and semi-nomadic Penan. Along this fascinating river is the world’s second largest cave passage listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site: Gunung Mulu National Park, and the lesserknown Loagan Bunut National Park. But we were not heading to Mulu. Our intended destination is actually Bario, famous for its rice, pineapple and – as we discover during this trip – the best instant curry noodle in Malaysia. During this trip, we stay at Bario Asal Lembaa longhouse settlement.
Bario is made up of a vast highland plateau that lies 1,000 metres above sea-level in the north-eastern corner of Sarawak and is home to a number of small indigenous villages. Surrounded by mountains, cultural sites, agricultural landscape and tropical rainforest, Bario is undeniably one of the most beautiful rural locations in Malaysia that deserves conservation and protection. The indigenous community that has been living in Bario for over 4,000 years is called Kelabit, whose members today face challenges like rampant modernisation and deforestation. Over the years, about 65% of the younger population have migrated due to lack of facilities and jobs in Bario. Today, it is estimated that slightly more than 1,000 Kelabit people remain in Bario. Kelabit tribes, like others in Borneo, are close-knit. Each Kelabit tribe dwell in a traditional longhouse. These days,
the longhouse has been modernised yet still retains its cultural functions and aspects. Many such longhouses have to be rebuilt several times due to disasters, especially fire. Since the longhouse is in a remote location in the highlands and inaccessible for the fire brigade to reach it, Volvo assisted the community by equipping the longhouses, including the eco-shelters situated along the 25-kilometre Bario ancestral jungle trail, with fire-fighting system. As a matter of fact, all are also equipped with such facility The Kelabit longhouse is impressively stands on many strong pillars, raised four metres above ground and walled by rough wooden planks or bamboo that are joined together using rattan seams. The roof of the longhouse is high and made of thick thatch. In my observation, many parts of the longhouse these days have been replaced with zinc, plywood and cement. Traditionally, the stairs were
