Destinations: Central Sarawak

Exploring Central Sarawak

Text by SHAHIDA SAKERI Images by GAYA TRAVEL MAGAZINE PHOTOGRAPHY UNIT & SARAWAK TOURISM BOARD

Sibu. Mukah. Bintulu. Although these three towns may have not reach the metropolitan standard like Kuching and Miri just yet, they still have an endless amount of charms on their own that never fail to attract the travellers to visit. Sibu is the gateway to the hinterland of Malaysia’s longest river, the mighty Rejang. Mukah on the other hand is popular for Melanau culture while Bintulu, thanks to oil and gas industry, is on its way to become Sarawak’s next major city. In this issue, Gaya Travel lets readers appreciate in-depth the cross-cultural experiences as we unveil Central Sarawak’s exceptional legacies.

Where to go in Sibu:

» Malaysia Pepper Board (www.mpb.gov.my/mpb2/index.php/en)

Sarawak is always popular as the top provider of pepper within and outside of the country. The proof? Malaysia Pepper Board is the governmental body that controls and monitors this commodity, which is exported to Asia Pacific and the ASEAN region, including Europe. One of the board’s units, which is situated in Sibu, supports the ever growing industry by providing dry and wet processing services. The unit also buys pepper from local farmers at competitive prices and offers assistance in terms of input, infrastructure and guidance. The board hopes that more farmers will be involved in the pepper industry to boost local economy. Travellers can contact the board to arrange for a guided tour to see how Sarawak pepper is processed and packed for export. After the tour, travellers can purchase processed pepper products sold at the unit.

T: +6 084 211 059

» Ng Sian Hap Earthenware Factory Sdn Bhd (Facebook: Ng Sian Hap Earthenware Factory Sdn Bhd)

Sibu is also famous for fine quality pottery. The town features many pottery manufacturers that offer different kinds of ceramic products designed in either traditional or contemporary style. One such place is Ng Sian Hap

Earthenware Factory Sdn. Bhd., which has been in business for over 70 years. The The founder of the factory started from a humble beginning. Due to his determination, his pottery business expanded from Pulau Kerto to Kg. Bakut, Tuaran, Tawau, Keningau and Miri in the spam of two generations. The factory now produces and sells various products such as flower pots, vases, sculptures and coin banks for as low as MYR3 to hundreds of ringgit per piece. Travellers could also watch the pottery sculpting process at the factory, which requires precision and patience.

T: +6 084 213 633

» Sibu Central Market (www.sarawaktourism.com/attraction/sibu-central-market)

Sibu Central Market is the best place for travellers to observe daily life. This place, which is huge, where native merchants from Sibu and nearby areas gather under one roof, selling various items. Located on Channel Road opposite the Express Boat Passenger Terminal, this market has two floors to accommodate different purposes. Travellers can expect to encounter the well-known sago worm along with traditional delicacies like celorot (cone shaped snack made from glutinous rice) and the organic Bario rice. Despite being a tourist magnet, the prices at Sibu Central Market remains reasonable. Plus, the locals are warm and friendly, making it so easy to mingle and ask questions about local culture and products available. The market opens from 5:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

» Homestay Rumah Panjang Bawang Assan (www.right.sarawak.gov.my/Homestay/Rumah_Bawang_ Assan/introduction.shtml)

Claimed to have existed since 18 th century, this homestay perfectly portrays the evolution occurred in the place as it features not only traditional longhouses but also modern ones. They even have a wireless internet connection there. This place is dominated by the Iban community, one of the major ethnics in Sarawak. Since most of the residents there are able to speak in English, communication will not be a problem at all.

Homestay Rumah Panjang Bawang Assan is a project developed by the Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture, offering many kind of activities like experiencing a cruise from town to Bawang Assan, watching pua kumbu weaving demonstration, making products from bemban, fishing fresh water prawn, learning to use blowpipe and donning colourful Iban costumes. To date, there are 15 houses licensed to join the programme. It is also said that the programme is wellreceived by travellers all the way from England, Australia, Spain and China. To get to Homestay Rumah Panjang Bawang Assan, visitors can take a taxi for MYR50 or wait for a van outside Sibu Central Market for merely MYR2.

When visiting the longhouse, travellers might get the chance to witness the miring ritual performed by the chief of the longhouse together with five assistants. It started with the chief reciting a long mantra to invoke the divine while holding a rooster. Then, his assistants prepare meals consisted of boiled egg, tuak (rice-fermented drink), anchovy, renai (a popcorn-like type of food made from rice) and local snack, to be served to the divine. The purpose behind this ritual is to seek divine blessing and excellent life throughout the year. Try to catch the graceful Ngajat dance and feast upon an Iban signature dish called manok pansoh, which is a chicken cooked in bamboo along with lemongrass, tapioca leaves and mushroom.

T: +6 014 582 8105 / +6 017 785 9029 (Marcathy)

Jason Bakery for kompia

There is no better way of absorbing a new culture other than savouring local gastronomy; in Sibu, be sure to taste the bagel-like kompia, which was created by the Foochow people in China during World War II as a dry and long-lasting food, essential during times of war. Made from flour topped with sesame seeds and then baked in a traditional oven, kompia is either stuffed with meat or not, but the former is claimed to taste richer. Today, being Sibu’s favourite treat, kompia has progressed and now filled with strawberry jam, butter, red bean and kaya, much to the the younger generation’s liking.

T: +6 016 869 5000

Where to go in Mukah:

» Lamin Dana (www.lamindana.com)

Built in 1999, Lamin Dana (literally means ‘traditional house’ in Melanau dialect) is not only a bed and breakfast cum living museum full of Melanau elements, but also surrounded by the natural habitat of mud skippers, blue crabs and fireflies. The history revolves around the place is also intriguing.

When visiting this place, take the chance to savour ambuyat, also known as linut (a sticky porridge-like type of food made from sago flour). Ambuyat / linut used to be Melanau’s main source of food. However, due to rapid modernisation, it is now served only during tea or supper. This dish is best eaten with spicy sambal belacan (spicy shrimp paste).

Another dish that travellers should try is umai (fish salad), a dish that is well-accepted throughout Sarawak, not only among Melanau people. Umai is simply Sarawak’s version of sushi. Made fresh using mackerel or black pomfret mixed with onions, chillies, salt and lime juice, the preparation of umai does not require cooking at all. All you need to do is to just let the raw fish meat marinate along with other ingredients until it turns white. People can grab this spicy and tangy dish at local restaurants or Mukah’s fish market.

Interested travellers may choose one of the four packages available: 3D2N Lamin Dana Cultural Tour; 2D1N Lamin Dana Mangrove Tour; 3D2N Kaul Festival Tour; or Lamin Dana Day Tour.

T: +6 019 849 5962 (Mrs. Diana Rose)

» Pusat Memproses Kuih Asli to savour Kuih Sepit (https://www.facebook.com/ pg/menarikdimukahdandalat/ photos/?tab=album&album_ id=1620665101580680)

Sarawak’s kuih sepit (love letters snack) is very different from the one in the Peninsular as it is made of pure coconut milk, thus possesses creamier taste. Other ingredients include sago flour, sugar, egg and sesame seeds. At Pusat Memproses Kuih Asli (Local Biscuits Production Centre), we were able to witness the production of this crispy kuih sepit from the scratch. The preparation is quite similar to making a pancake, except that the layer of the batter smeared on the pan is thinner. Then, it was rolled up with a chopstick before cut into small pieces. In a day, the centre produces approximately 35 kilograms of kuih sepit, sold for RM75 per 5kg to the agents. Thanks to the Agricultural Department’s support, the centre’s kuih sepit has won the hearts of Malaysians, Singaporeans and Bruneians. Besides kuih sepit, the centre also sells other traditional delicacies like kuih batang buruk and kuih jala.

» Pusat Pemprosesan Tebaloi Unit Peladang to taste Tebaloi

Considered as a traditional Sarawak snack, tebaloi cookies has a thin crispy layer with a hint of smoky taste. Its ingredients include sago flour, grated coconut, sugar and eggs. Pusat Pemprosesan Tebaloi Kampung Judan allows visitors to learn about tebaloi making process, which begins by mixing the ingredients to become dough, then spreading a thin layer of the dough onto banana leaf, baking the dough either on open fire or in a modern oven, letting it cool on a cooling rack, snipping the tebaloi sheet into smaller squares, baking it over again and finally pressing it with an iron-like tool (phew!). The owner also claims that the recipe used there is a family recipe that has been inherited from one generation to another. If the original flavour is not tempting enough, travellers should try other flavours such as chocolate, pandan, strawberry and even cencaluk (fermented small shrimps or krill). The centre is open for business from 6:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.

Getting there and away

From Sibu, Mukah is only accessible by road. The express bus service runs between 6:30 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. costing MYR15.30 per passenger. Estimated travelling time between the two towns is three hours. On the other hand, more options are available for travelling between Bintulu and Mukah. Travellers seeking backpackers’ experience may use the bus services for the price of MYR20, taking approximately four hours one way. Those who prefer a less hassle trip should opt for MASwings to fly from Mukah to Bintulu for a much shorter time but at much higher price.

Where to go in Bintulu:

» Pasar Utama Bintulu

Like Sibu Central Market, Pasar Utama Bintulu (Bintulu Main Market) is definitely a hit among locals and travellers. The market carries items like fruits, belacan (shrimp paste), cencaluk (fermented shrimps), fresh seafood (including little sharks), vegetables, local delicacies and souvenirs. This is the place where travellers can test their bargaining skill to get items at the best price. There is even a saying that every traveller landed in Bintulu should try Bintulu’s belacan and cencaluk, claimed to be phenomenal.

Where to stay in Central Sarawak?

» Paramount Hotel (www. paramounthotelsibu.com)

Paramount Hotel is a smart choice for travellers due to its strategic location in the heart of Sibu, surrounded by shopping centres, bazaars and banks. It offers 95 chic rooms categorised as Standard, Standard Extra, Superior, Deluxe, Junior Suite, Family Suite, Executive Suite and Paramount Suite, all at reasonable rates. Besides having business amenities like meeting rooms, the hotel also includes a hair salon specially for its guests.

T: +6 084 331 122

Kingwood Resort (www.kingwoodresort.com.my)

In Mukah, travelers should opt for Kingwood Resort which has two branches: one located exactly in Mukah town, while the other is on the coast facing South China Sea. For a quiet peaceful getaway, we totally recommend our readers to stay at the latter because the atmosphere there is serene. The resort also comes complete with tennis court.

T: +6 084 873 888

Parkcity Everly Hotel(teg-hotels.com/b/parkcityeverly-bintulu)

Dubbed as one of the best business centres in Bintulu, the Parkcity Everly Hotel is no doubt a place for classy professionals or guests who simply have refined taste. The hotel offers 228 elegant rooms and offers an extensive range of secretarial services and meeting rooms namely the Madaline, Christine, Louisa and Isobel, along with other useful equipment. The fact that it is also located near to attractions like Tanjung Batu Beach, Taman Tumbina and Similajau National Park makes it perfect for travellers who intend to explore Bintulu.

T: +6 086 318 888

This article first appeared in Gaya Travel Magazine Issue 8.5.