Love Sewing Magazine FREE sample issue

The UK's No.1 sewing mag

r u o y e v o L wardrobe L Mix and match garments L Adjust for your bust L In-depth fabric advice

Everyday knit

DRESS

EXPERT GUIDES

Couture hems for all skirt styles

THREAD THERAPY

Why sewing is so good for you!

Sizes

6-22 On-trend

TROUSERS A history of

stunning French lace techniques LS62 cover.indd 1

Charming HOME IDEAS ISSUE 62 UK £6.99

Inspire Imagine Create

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

07/12/2018 14:06

See Shauni's trouser s on page 21!

Meet the

TEAM

… to issue 62 of Love Sewing

T

he year has whizzed by and 2019 is on our doorstep. This issue goes on sale the day before my best friend's wedding so it's reassuring that as you read this all the necessary dress sewing is done and I will be able to move onto some non-wedding related projects!

(Preferably avoiding lace for the first half of the year.) This issue is full of fresh ideas for the warmer weather ahead and I can't wait to see what you all make.

Master a new skill on page 25!

Our McCall's pattern gift this month is a super stylish but equally essential 4-in-1 trouser pack. We made a fun checked pair and then played with stripe direction to create two versatile pairs of trousers!

Find both versions on page 17 onwards.

Our fabulous reader Shauni made a snuggly flannel pair and matched her top to the side stripe – how fabulous!

You'll love her review on page 21.

m Visit the Fashion Museu Archive on page 14 03 welcomev2.indd 3

If you're keen to clear out your stash, we recommend whipping up an oven glove in a bold print, trying our fun appliqué Fancy a cuppa? cushion and you won't be able to resist the selfie purse

Nicola ART EDITOR Nicola is passionate about design and has a sharp eye for detail.

She loves creating new illustrations and takes her inspiration from her home town, Manchester.

See more on her Instagram calico_ creative

Bethany

on page 38. There is a lovely blouse to try on page 25 and a quick jersey skirt on page 88. You won't want to miss our exclusive Liberty project from Alice Caroline on page 84 either!

A personal highlight of the issue is our feature on the lace-making expertise in Normandy. We went behind the scenes to learn the historic art of delicate lace made by hand since the 1600s. Plus you'll want to step back in time and learn about how the team at the Bath Fashion Museum has preserved gorgeous garments for The History of Fashion in 100 Objects exhibition on page 14. With so much to read, I better let you get stuck in.

DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks, available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She's excited to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@ lovesewingmag.co.uk

07/12/2018 15:56

Inside this ISSUE REGULARS AND FEATURES

3 Welcome 6 Love Sewing Loves 10 Fabric focus – Dreamy denim Save 20% at WeaverDee 12 This month I’m making 14 Behind the seams with The History of Fashion in 100 Objects 16 In the good books 21 Reader review: McCall’s 7661 28 SUBSCRIBE TODAY 30 Skill building with Wendy Gardiner 32 Save 20% on independent patterns at Dragonfly Fabrics 33 A Brief History of French lace-making 40 Swatch Selector with Kerry Green 42 15 mins with Riva Juarez aka Riva la Diva!

44 Machine review 46 Sewing workshops 49 10 fun facts about Tula Pink 53 DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS 57 Shop of the month 58 Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie 61 Stitcher’s story with the Sewing Lab 68 Readers’ makes 70 PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS 74 Support your local sewing shop

17

Four on-trend trouser styles

PROJECTS

Pay just £1.13 per week when you subscribe to Love Sewing – see page 28 for further info

77 Fabric focus – Cosy up to cotton 81 Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE 84 Fabric focus – Animal attraction 86 Pattern picks – Spring Forward 90 READER OFFER 92 The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake 94 Sewing room spruce 96 Coming next issue

17 Your McCall’s pattern gift – 4-in-1 trouser multi pack 22 Fancy a cuppa? cushion 25 Float on by tie blouse 38 Show your face selfie bag 50 Room to grow kids' trousers 65 Dress the part jersey tea dress 78 Kiss and make-up pouch 88 Make me today jersey skirt 98 Take the heat oven glove

Find us online

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk /lovesewingmag

4 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

4 contents.indd 4

07/12/2018 15:55

98 Editorial Editor Amy Scarr Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Chief Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Sub-Editor Chantelle Salkeld Lead Designer Nicola Vernon-Smith Designer Sher Ree Tai Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

25

Publishing & Advertising

44

Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz Ecommerce & Distribution Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

Distribution Newstrade Seymour Distribution Ltd Tel 0844 826 0613

Contact 22

Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961

Subscription Enquiries

Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X

Free-motion embroidery tips!

33

All material Š Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc

CONTRIBUTORS Julia Claridge

Fiona Hesford

Julia is the brains behind www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk.

A former fashion designer, she now hosts sewing classes, designs paper patterns for children and runs a wonderful online fabric shop. In this issue Julia shares a fun jersey dress project on page 65.

Fiona is the creative mind behind Sewgirl, a range of patterns and kits for adults and children. Why not make her lovely tie neckline blouse on page 25 or cheeky selfie bag on page 38?

Visit Fiona’s shop at www.sewgirl.co.uk

Riva Juarez

Tula Pink

Riva is a self-confessed fashion junkie based in Seattle, Washington who shares her personal style through fashion tutorials, couture recreations and lifestyle inspiration.

Visit www.rivaladiva.com to discover a wealth of sewing inspiration and ideas and step into her world on page 42.

Tula Pink is an icon of the fabric and quilt world. She has designed over 20 fabric collections, as well as thread collections, needlepoint kits, her own line of sewing tools, and writen several books. Find out 10 fun facts about Tula on page 49 and learn more at www.tulapink.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 5

4 contents.indd 5

07/12/2018 15:55

The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

SPOT ON The Kimberly dress is gorgeous and intended for woven, non-stretch fabric.

It has a soft V-neckline and a half-circle skirt with a panel at the bottom.

The views includes different sleeve lengths, optional pockets and a tie belt. With an incredible range of sizes, it really is a flattering garment for all.

Price: PDF pattern, €10.50 (approximately £9.36) at www.athinakakou.com Sizes: 4-28

Viva la frida

A celebration of one of the most important Rebel Artists of the 20th Century, Frida Fiesta is a fittingly bold, bright, and beautiful fabric!

Designed by Caroline Smith, in her Dorset studio, this glorious pattern is digitally printed on 150cm-wide cotton sateen fabric and features large images of Frida Kahlo’s beloved parrots, flamingos, flowers and of course, the artist herself sitting 11cm across by 15cm high. Shop: £15 per metre from www.sewladidavintage.com

† Price and price conversion correct at the time of going to press

BUTTON UP

Show off your love of all things dressmaking with a fabulous fabric button brooch from Honey Pips.

Made using free-hand machine embroidery on a combination of cotton and wool, you can choose your colours to suit your style too! Available now, for £4.75 each at www.notonthehighstreet.com

6 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P06.indd 6

07/12/2018 14:02

Stitchers gonna

STITCH

ANIMAL APPEAL

The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Belgium fabric company Chat Chocolat has launched a new fabric collection with a twist! The All Animals are Equal collection will be available from October this year and aims to shine a spotlight on those critters that are underrepresented or not mainstream. Expect to find brushed sweat fabric and organic cottons featuring sparrows, foxes, poodles and mackerel against a backdrop of warm autumnal colours. To find out more, visit www.chatchocolat.com

Bethany Deputy Editor

FAMILY PORTRAIT

Hand stitching offers so many possibilities for personalisation. If you fancy recreating a favourite photo, try the Snap & Stitch uploader at www.dmc.com where you can create a cross stitch chart and select all the threads you need to stitch it from home. How handy is this?

SEEING STAR SIGNS

I love a handmade gift and this star sign cross stitch kit has really caught my eye. It includes handdyed galaxy-effect aida, gold thread and a pattern to create a star sign of your choice. Pick up yours for £17.99 at www. notonthehighstreet.com

Shear De l i g h t Discover more on PAGE 94!

The fabric lovers amongst us will know the importance of a beautiful pair of fabric shears. This pinking shears A4 print from www.sewisfaction. co.uk comes with a clear warning! Priced £9 you’ll receive it safely in a board-backed envelope, ready for framing or hanging in your home. If you’re in need of some craftyinspired art to spruce up your sewing room wall, check out our round-up on page 94.

YOURS TRULY

What better way to personalise a gift than to use someone’s initials? These DIY embroidery kits feature beautiful floral patterns tied in with your chosen letter and are available for £17.75 at www. miniaturerhino. etsy.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7

LS62.P06.indd 7

07/12/2018 14:02

That's a

Best made plans

WRAP

We love Simplicity 8795, the new multi-garment pattern pack from Simplicity. The chic jacket features contrast collar, tie belt and inseam pockets. While the classic skirt comes in two styles: knee and ankle-length.

We’re imagining a sultry velvet jacket and satin skirt for nights out and a classic houndstooth jacket for looking smart while out and about.

Sizes: 6-14 and 16-24.

Price: Paper pattern £9.50 from www.sewdirect.com

FABRIC FANTASTIC We love the gorgeous range of laminated fabric at Sewing Sanctuary. Whether you’re making homeware, bags or garments, this wipe-clean fabric features exclusive designs and is water resistant! Choose between bold, plain colours, pineapples, florals, cheeky critters and much more. What’s more the bio-laminated fabric, WIN! can be cleaned in a washing machine, making it perfect for messy activities like aprons!

Turn to Shop: Prices start at £7.50 per half metre. See page 53 the full range at www.sewing-sanctuary.com

Get organised with this gorgeous project planner and stay on top of your new year sewing. This clever planner was designed by Zoe, the creative mind behind the Sewing in the UK Facebook group, and website www.sewingintheuk.com.

Priced £19.50, the A5 planner features a sturdy cover and ring-bound sheets that let you record your measurements, catalogue your stash, track your makes and much more. We love the fold-out sheets that let you sketch your design and record vital construction notes for each project. Pick up the planner at www.sewingintheuk.com

RULE OF THUMB It really pays to have the best tools for the job if you want to achieve professional result and this nifty Clover graph ruler certainly warrants a place in your sewing basket.

Achieve maximum precious when marking up curved shapes and drawing 45° bias lines, the pliable ruler features vivid markers enabling you to read measurements easily, even on darker fabric. It includes the commonly used 10mm-15mm and 12mm parallel lines and the two scales are subdivided into 1mm divisions, allowing you to draw parallel lines accurately. To find out more about the ruler visit www.clover-mfg.com/product/9/646. Clover products are available nationwide from all good craft, sewing and hobby shops. For stockist information, contact Clover mail at clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

8 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P06.indd 8

07/12/2018 14:02

BLOOMING

MARVELLOUS

A CUT ABOVE We’re thrilled that the unicorn trend shows no sign of slowing down and we absolutely adore these quirky 4” embroidery scissors from Milward. A far cry from the traditional embroidery snips, these rainbow coloured scissors are sure to brighten up your sewing basket. Milward products are available nationwide from haberdashery, knitting and craft stockists. For stockist information email groves@ stockistenquiries.co.uk

M Rosenberg & Son have a reputation for stocking gorgeous high-quality fabric and the latest addition to their Stitch Fabrics shop is no different. This embroidered net fabric is a stunning selection of colourful threads which weave together to create a beautiful work of art that you can wear. It would make a gorgeous dress, classic skirt or simple shell top. Embroidered fabric can be treated just like lace with a plain fabric underneath to help the fabric sing.

Shop: £25 per half metre, available from www.stitchfabrics.co.uk

TURN BACK TIME

Animal

LOVER

Spoil your favourite critter with a pet teepee! This pattern is designed for beginners and comes with a very clear and concise illustrated instructions booklet. Suitable for cats and small dogs, especially those who love curling up in their own little space and it is really cosy for cold winter nights. Choose bold prints to really personalise it to your pet.

Sizes: The pattern has two size options: 50cm squared or 60cm squared.

Price: Paper pattern £7.50, available from www.bearinthehood.co.uk/shop

We’ve fallen head over heels for the gorgeous designs on offer at So Vintage Patterns. Within the huge selection, you’ll find over 500 Vogue Paris Original, Vogue Couturier Design patterns, and Vintage Vogue Designer Patterns! Find thousands of true vintage patterns for the unique styles you won’t find in stores like 1920s Great Gatsby flapper fashions all the way through to the 1990s.

Their specialty is 1940s and 1950s designs so start shopping today!

Shop: www.sewvintage patterns.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 9

LS62.P06.indd 9

07/12/2018 14:02

This month 1'm making Ponte dresses are perfect at this time of year.

We love Bianca’s version of Vogue 8825.

See more stylish makes on her blog www.sleeplessinbavaria.com

I

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabric and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily, to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities.

Each blogger's unique kit is available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

made Vogue 8825 in the most fabulous green Ponte Roma fabric because I wanted to push my skill set and make a classic piece I will reach for again and again.

When the fabric first arrived I thought it was a bit too green for me, but luckily, the wrong side of the fabric is a wonderful dark green shade I fell in love with the moment I first saw it. The pattern refers to itself as 'very easy', something I, as someone who rarely works with jersey, simply refused to believe as my overlocker and I are more enemies than friends. She likes to chew up my fabric or break needles and thread, or just refuses to start at all!

I decided that perhaps we got off on the wrong foot and gave her a spa, new overlocker needles, some oil, and vacuumed all the lint out of the compartment with all the hooks and such. Since then there have been no issues at all.

As McCall Pattern Co. patterns generally run large for me, I sized down and made the dress in a size 12 with no alterations. The fit is really good. The only thing I would change is cutting the length of the cuffs in half. I currently just turn the cuff inwards as the sleeves are too long.

But to be honest it’s a quick fix that I might make in the coming days. I stitched everything on my machine first and finished the raw seams on my overlocker.

The neckline of the dress is lovely with the flattering pleats in the front. The facings are added to pieces that fold inside the bodice and only need

Bianca says...

The way you insert the front sleeve into the front bodice is quite different... and I am really impressed with it

Bianca used English Wool Blend Ponte Roma Jersey in Forest Green, £8.99 per metre; and Vogue 8825, £13.75.

Both from www.minervacrafts.com

to be stitched in place in the back part of the bodice. I chose to do this by hand, as I always worry about wonky topstitching when working with jersey!

I really liked the straightforward construction of the dress the way you insert the front sleeve into the front bodice is quite different from anything I have ever done and I am really impressed with it.

I think it took me about three hours to cut out and sew up and I agree with Vogue, it really is a very easy dress to make up.

Needless to say, I’ve worn this dress to the office already and I see me creating more of these in the near future, made in navy, black and grey!

If you’ve been afraid to work with jersey before, I recommend this pattern and the ponte I used, as it is nice and thick and doesn’t wiggle around while you’re working with it. Time to prep my next version!

12 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P12.indd 12

07/12/2018 13:01

BEHIND THE SEAMS

History of Fashion in

100 OBJECTS Visit the past with a new exhibition of key garments charting fashion history

Black and red wool crêpe appliqué jacket with black sequins, Lucien Lelong, c.1947; and red and black spotted silk ballgown with bows and puffed sleeves, David and Elizabeth Emanuel, c.1982

LS62.P14.indd 14

07/12/2018 15:59

T

he major exhibition 'A History of Fashion in 100 Objects' is celebrating fashion from the 1600s to the present day at the Fashion Museum, Bath. Showcasing 100 star objects drawn from the Fashion Museum’s world-class collection, these displays give visitors an instant insight into the era-defining outfits and headline pieces that have shaped our wardrobes over the past 400 years.

Fashion touches everyone’s life – it is intrinsically linked to society – and 'A History of Fashion in 100 Objects' references moments in history, as well as more personal stories. Graceful silk robes and embroidered and tailored coats for men, the styles fashionable during Bath’s Georgian heyday are on show, along with Regency fashion from the time of Jane Austen and dresses by the big names of fashion history, including the House of Worth, and Dior.

If the shoe fits The exhibition also includes 10 shoe moments throughout history, from Georgian silk shoes to Nike Air trainers, as well as a children’s trail featuring 10 historical fashion looks for kids, from the 1700s to the 2000s.

There are a number of exquisite instances of this craft featuring delicate embroidery, from the ribbed silk lace-up boots with silk floral embroidery from the 1880s; to the cream silk satin court shoes with diamanté embroidery by Ferragamo, worn by Alicia Markova in the 1950s.

The lure of couture The red and black spotted silk ballgown, with bows and puffed sleeves, shown left, was designed

by David and Elizabeth Emanuel, c.1982. Featuring a sweetheart neckline and curved princess seams, it emphasises the waist and bust, just as the volumious skirt and sleeves also play with the proportions of the wearer. The jacket next to it was worn by actress Vivien Leigh!

This piece was chosen as Dress of the Year 2013 by Susanna Lau. The on-the-knee sleeveless dress is embellished with cut-out white machine-made lace panels to which are affixed jewelled roundels, made up of hundreds of tiny pink diamantés. Strips of black duct tape are attached all over the front of the garment – a bold heavy detail against the delicacy, lightness and brightness of the dress.

This collection is 100% worth the visit!

Sugar pink silk appliqué dress with lace, crystals and black gaffer tape. Designed by Christopher Kane, 2013 Pair of woven silk shoes in sage and gold, with blush silk ties and leathercovered wooden clogs. From 1740s

WIN TICKETS ON PAGE 53!

The exhibition also features a stunning sugar pink silk appliqué dress, with lace, crystals and black gaffer tape, designed by Christopher Kane.

FIND OUT MORE All these garment images were reproduced with permission from the Fashion Museum, Bath.

Visit the exhibit in person to see more amazing garments. Ticket prices start at £9 and are available from www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/events/ history-fashion-100-objects

Fashion touches everyone’s life – it is intrinsically linked to society!

Black wool New Look suit, called ‘Daisy’. Christian Dior, worn by Margot Fonteyn, 1947

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 15

LS62.P14.indd 15

07/12/2018 15:59

BOOK OF THE MONTH

IN THE GOOD

BOOKS

Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books Debbie Shore’s Sewing Room Secrets: Machine Sewing

By Debbie Shore, Search Press, £9.99, on sale 1st January 2019 Hi Debbie, we’re loving Sewing Room Secrets, what inspired you to write it?

This is the first of the series, aimed at giving the beginner sewist, or those coming back to sewing, the confidence to have a go. I explain what to look for in a sewing machine, how they work, what tools and skills are needed, then how to use these skills and techniques to create 10 projects. I speak to many people who haven't sewn for years, and things change!

Not just machines, but fabric, tools and techniques are evolving all the time. I like to explain things simply, with no jargon, so

SEW SMILEY Combine 35 popular emojis to create fun quick-make projects for your home. Sew Emoji by Gailen Runge is ideal for kids, big and small and is filled with beginner-friendly instructions. Pick up yours for £14.99 from www.searchpress.com

anyone can understand the sewing process and hopefully be inspired to have a go.

What’s one of your biggest sewing room secrets?

It's no secret, but allow yourself to make mistakes, it's the best way to learn.

What was your favourite part and also the most challenging part of writing the book?

I've never really given a tour of the area where I actually sew so that was a favourite part, and the most challenging bit was to keep all the information I want to share in one book, thankfully this will be the first of many!

What are your top tips for creating the perfect sewing room?

Make sure your seat is comfortable and at a height that stops you from stooping over the table and use a daylight lamp to see colours clearly to prevent eye strain.

Keep the room tidy – an organised room is a more enjoyable place to work and you'll be able to find everything you need in an instant! My room's not complete without my dog Bobbin to keep me company.

If you could go back in time and give your younger self one piece

FASHION FINESSE Master the art of draping with this fantastic new book from Francesca Sterlacci and Barbara ArataGavere. Draping: Techniques for Beginners provides wonderfully detailed step-by-step tutorials. Available from

7th January, at www.laurenceking.com

of sewing advice what would it be?

Listen to your mum Debbie, she really is an expert!

You had a very busy 2018, what can we look forward to from you for 2019?

There are a few more books in the pipeline, in January I launch the first of a brand new learning series, Debbie Shore's Sewing Room Secrets, followed by Sew Outdoor Living in the summer. I've also designed my second fabric range due out in April, and am working on more! I'm working on new projects for my Half Yard Sewing Club members, it's a new subscription website that brings a unique monthly project along with lots of tips and sewing advice. In January I introduce a block of the month, so hopefully my members will be quilting along with me!

MINI MOTIFS Irem Yazici shares how to create miniature pieces of embroidered art in her book Tiny Stitches. Choose from over 50 motifs to create buttons, badges, pins and more! Find your copy for £12.99 from www.searchpress.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 16

LS62.P16.indd 16

07/12/2018 13:43

Your free

GIFT

Earn your

STRIPES There's nothing like completing a pair of flattering trousers to make you feel like a sewing superhero!

McCall's pattern comes with a helpful step-bystep guide designed to push your sewing skills

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17

17 trousers.indd 17

07/12/2018 15:52

Don't forget, the finished garment measurements are printed on the pattern tissue! We recommend picking your size based on your waist measurement as the hip area on these trousers are designed with a lot of ease built in!

We love!

There are so many e ways to play with th side panel! We used contrast stripes

See more fitting tips on page 58

VIEW A

We love the oversized bow and cropped length of this view. And it gave us a chance to play with directional stripes!

We used

Textured stitched pinstripe stretch suiting, ÂŁ2.99 per metre www.minerva crafts.com

18 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

17 trousers.indd 18

07/12/2018 15:52

MASTERCLASS

WOOL

VIEW B

Lots of sewists are wary of wool because of its tendency to shrink in the wash, but when treated with care, a wool garment can last a lifetime!

YARN VS WOOL? Although other animals such as alpacas, goats, llamas and even bunny rabbits produce fibre which can be spun and woven or knitted into luxury fabric, it’s only sheep that can make wool! That said, all of these care tips also apply to other animal fibre, including mohair and angora, as they all behave in quite a similar way.

We wanted to make a fun checked wool pair of trousers so left off the waist gather for a sleek look

We used: 100% wool colourful check fabric, £22 per metre www. fabricsforsale. co.uk

WHY CHOOSE WOOL? Wool is a really unique fibre, which has a wonderful range of properties that sewists can take advantage of. It’s remarkably warm for its weight, so a wool coat needn’t be heavy or bulky. It’s natural, 100% biodegradable and renewable, which makes it a perfect choice for the environmentally-conscious. Wool is also an elastic fibre, meaning that it will shape itself to your body to create a perfect fit.

CARING FOR WOOL Modern processing techniques mean that some wool is machine-washable. If your wool is not superwash treated though, don’t worry – it’s still easy to care for. We recommend a no-rinse wool wash such as Soak. After 30 minutes soaking, take out the garment and roll it in a towel to remove excess moisture. Finally, lay your garment out on a flat surface and leave it to dry. It won’t even need ironing!

SAFE STORAGE The worst nightmare for a wool wardrobe is the dreaded clothes moth. Although moths can attack any fibre, wool and animal fibres are their favourites. Clothes moths are only 5-10mm long and pale – if you see them in your house, take action immediately! Pheramone traps and insecticide sprays will catch and kill moths, but preventative action is best. Clean out your cupobards regularly and keep particularly delicate items in Ziploc bags.

Subscribe today to get a

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN IN YOUR SIZE WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 28 for details

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 19

17 trousers.indd 19

07/12/2018 15:52

eview eader R7661 RMcCall's Shauni Sanderson, blogger behind www.magnificentthread.com reviews this issue’s McCall's pattern gift

I

f it isn't the 'year of the trouser' for everyone else, then it certainly has been for me.

The McCall's 7661 might just be my favourite trouser patterns of the ones I've sewn up - this is my third pair and I’d say they’re the best yet!

The high-waisted trousers are really easy to both put together and wear, with the different views offering a few variations for the legs - either a more voluminous culotte and full length style, or the slimmer, but still fairly loose fitting leg with the option of contrast size panels. I opted for the latter and a tie waist for this pair with View A. I picked a soft, textured charcoal flannel suiting from www. minervacrafts.com priced at £7.99 per metre. I wanted a side panel that popped, so I had lots of colours to choose from with the luxurious Atelier Brunette Viscose Crepe. I chose the 'Tangerine' colourway, priced at £15.99 per metre and also from Minerva. The crepe was a little lighter than I anticipated, so I doubled up my fabric for the side panel. (Eagle-eyed readers may also notice that I managed to squeeze a matching Named Clothing, Reeta shirt from my leftovers too!)

The pattern has a lot of included ease, so I picked my size based on the finished garment measurements for the waist: a size 12, despite my

measurements aligning more closely to the size 14. The fit through the hip is nice and relaxed, and the front is quite heavily gathered into the waistband, so it's really only the waist that needs to fit snugly. A little tip for finding the finished waist measurement: check the waistband pattern pieces closely as you won't find this on the envelope!

The trousers fasten with a centred lapped zipper at the back, but I swapped mine out for an invisible zip as I prefer the method and finish. From wearing my other pairs, I've also found that using a 10" zipper makes them much easier to wiggle on and off than the recommended 9" zipper. Other than that, I made the pattern straight from the envelope with no problems or adjustments!

This pattern is definitely a good introduction for anyone feeling tentative about trouser making, but with plenty of options for the bolder wearer to get creative. The loose fit at the hips makes them both flattering and easy to fit. I love the contrast side panel and can see myself playing with this again for version four, five and maybe more!

In issue 63, Becca Woodward makes McCall's 6891

Say hello to Shauni on Instagram shaunimagnifique www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21

LS62.P21.indd 21

07/12/2018 16:27

We love

HOME

Fancy a

CUPPA? This scrap-friendly project can be varied easily through the choice of fabric and colours Project KAJSA WIKMAN

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 35cm or 1 FQ natural colour linen for background • 35cm or 1 FQ gingham for pillow back • 25cm gingham for tablecloth • 35cm or 1 FQ polka dot for back, teacup & plate • 25cm-square teal print for teapot • scrap of white fabric for inside of teacup • 25cm paper-backed fusible web • black and co-ordinating thread • button for teapot • button for closure on back • 1 skein black embroidery floss • trim or lace for tags • 14”-square cushion pad • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CUTTING: • Cut 1 24.1x36.8cm piece linen for background • Cut 1 25.4x36.8cm piece gingham for back • Cut 1 25.4x36.8cm piece polka dot for back • Cut 1 14x36.8cm piece gingham for tablecloth. (Buy 1/2 yard (50cm) and cut it diagonally to do it my way)

NOTES: Seam allowances are 1/4” unless otherwise noted Finished size is 14” square

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Place the linen and gingham RST and stitch. Press the seam toward the darker fabric.

2 Trace the appliqué patterns onto the paper side of the fusible web. Fuse the web to the WS of the fabric and cut out the shapes.

3 Peel off the paper and position the appliqués on the seamed fabric. Don’t place them too close to the edges

22 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P22.indd 22

07/12/2018 12:51

Get in MOTION Doodling with your sewing machine is a great way to personalise your projects and add fine details to your designs.

Here are the essentials You’ll need to locate the feed dog controls on your machine. This is to lower the metal teeth that protrude from the needle plate and feed your fabric under the needle. It is also called the ‘drop feed’ due to the way the teeth drop between stitches. The lever or dial is often hidden from view by the accessories tray but can also be at the back of the free-arm bed.

You are in control of the stitch pattern and can move the fabric in any direction to scribble on top with your needle.

Keep the fabric flat by placing your hands on each side.

If you’re feeling nervous you can trace a design onto tissue paper, layer in on top of your work then trace the lines. Simply rip away the paper once you’re done.

Top tip

The teapot design would look great on the front of a halfapron as well!

of the pillow. Press in place.

Thread your sewing machine with black thread.

Sew with a short straight stitch around the edges of the pieces, starting with the piece placed underneath the cup. If you don’t want to try free-motion embroidery (see masterclass, left) just steer your machine gently around each shape.

Stitch the steam coming out of the teacup with three strands of black floss, using a running stitch. Sew a button on top of the teapot.

For the pillow back, make a double 2.5cm fold to the WS, along one of the 36.8cm edges of the gingham fabric.

Press. Do the same for the

dotted fabric. Sew down the folds by top-stitching near the edge.

Make a buttonhole in the centre of the folded edge of the gingham piece.

Stitch the trim or lace tabs to the left side of the pillow.

Place the pillow front face up. Overlap the back pieces, and place them face down on top of the pillow front so that the outside edges are aligned and the piece with the buttonhole is closest to the pillow front. Stitch the pillow front to the backs, and zigzag the raw edges.

Turn the pillow RS out, and sew on the button.

Insert the pillow form to finish.

ABOUT THE BOOK

Make pillows, ÂŁ9.99 (C&T Publishing) www.ctpub.com

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23

LS62.P22.indd 23

07/12/2018 12:52

MACHINE

REVIEW

This month, Love Sewing shines a spotlight of some of the innovative machines designed by Toyota. Find out more at www.gb.homesewing.com/en_gb

BEST FOR BEGINNERS

ECO 26A If you’re just starting out on your sewing journey, the Toyota ECO26A is a great machine to help you whip up a variety of makes. The machine’s simple and ergonomically friendly design enables sewists to take advantage of the various stitches on offer and adjust them with ease. There are 26 stitch programs covering the most popular utility stitches as well as ample workspace and a clear needle drop point.

Beginners will benefit from the various program indicators etched onto the body of the machine as well as the quick bobbin winding system and easy-to-use stitch and tension controllers. Additionally, the machine’s light 5kg weight makes this a great sewing companion to take along to classes.

Lorna

R

UNDE

£200

BEST FOR DENIM LOVERS

SUPER JEANS 26XL Meet denim’s new best friend, Toyota’s Super Jeans 26XL machine. Built for those who like to don their denims, this machine features a special gliding foot specifically designed to glide over 12 layers of fabric, ideal when sewing jean hems or working with thick materials. There are 26 stitches to choose from and you can easily feed thicker thread through the machine and edit the settings via the large dials. The machine comes with two standard needles, two jeans needles and a ball point needle as standard, so it can harmonise with a variety of fabric. Plus, if you’re attending classes, the machine is easy to carry, weighing just 5.2kg.

Bethany R

UNDE

£300

BEST FOR EMBROIDERY

OEKAKI RENAISSANCE Not only does this machine look sleek and stylish but it showcases some fantastic design modifications from Toyota.

The new Oekaki expands the possibilities of free-motion embroidery allowing the user to control the stitch by adjusting the pressure on the foot control. It is fully computerised and boasts easy computer-regulated functions giving you maximum efficacy and precision. There are 50 stitch variations including straight stitch, zigzag stitch, overcasting stitch, decorative stitch and three buttonhole styles.

Sewists will also appreciate a quick and easy set up thanks to the drop feed system and automatic needle threader.

Amy

ND

AROU

£400

44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P44.indd 44

07/12/2018 12:53

JOIN LOVE SEWING TODAY! 10 REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE: 1 2 3 4 5

6

7

8 9 10

SAVE money on every issue FREE delivery direct to your door NEVER miss an issue BE THE FIRST to read Love Sewing FAB pattern worth over £8 from The McCall Pattern company with every issue Exclusive promise to offer BRANDED PATTERNS in the widest size range The BEST tutorials and projects from industry experts including Wendy Gardiner and Alison Smith MBE BUILD your ultimate pattern collection NEVER be short of sewing inspiration again SPREAD the COST by Direct Debit or credit/debit card

Exclusive designs from The McCall Pattern Company with every issue Love Sewing is packed with tips, tricks and clever ideas to keep you inspired month after month. Every issue includes a stunning paper pattern from The McCall Pattern Company, the best tutorials from industry experts plus exciting projects and inspiring articles.

Whether you’re making unique garments, chic homeware and accessories, or fun embroidery projects, Love Sewing is the perfect addition to your sewing room.

How to pay: £14.68 EVERY 3 MONTHS*

Credit/ debit card

£58.99 FOR 14 ISSUES

Credit/ debit card

BEST OPTION *UK offer only. Subscription starts at the next available issue. For overseas rates and other payment methods please visit: www.moremags.com/subscriptions. Hurry this offer expires 24/01/2019

LS62.P28-29.indd 28

07/12/2018 13:50

Subscribe for just * £1.13 per week!

Sew your own dream wardrobe

Receive over £140 worth of patterns a year!

How to order:

Online: www.practicalsubs.com/3871 Call: 01858 438899 (QUOTE CODE: PLSE1218) Hurry, offer expires 24/01/2019

LS62.P28-29.indd 29

07/12/2018 13:50

FABRIC

1

2

3

Cosy up to

COTTON 4

6

This versatile material works a treat for a variety of dressmaking projects.

Here are some of our favourite prints

7

5

8

Fabric shopping Majestic Macaw cotton lawn, £14.90 per metre www.sewmesunshine.co.uk Atelier Brunette Cosmic cotton lawn, £15.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com Liberty of London Tana lawn – Hiding, £22.50 per metre www.remnantkings.co.uk Catherine stretch cotton, £14 per metre www.sewisfaction.co.uk Kokka big dots beige on green linen double gauze, £21.50 per metre www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk Purple and green NANI IRO Grace double gauze, £22 per metre www.drapersdaughter.com Lewis & Irene Bear Hug Wilderness in grey cotton, £11 per metre www.sewscrumptious.co.uk Metallic Moon Phase Clay cotton, £17.20 per metre www.misformake.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 77

LS62.P77.indd 77

07/12/2018 13:59

ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER Claire-Louise Hardie shares her top tricks for fitting trousers

T

rousers are possibly the fitting nemesis for both DIY dressmakers and the fashion industry. The problem with trousers is that there are so many curves to contend with. There are sideways curves from the waist to the hips and then down the leg, plus there are outward curves from waist to hip, at the bum and tummy, and those pesky crotch curves going from the front to the back of

the body which you can’t really see properly when fitting; they seem to provide most of the fitting wrinkles and embarrassing moments when fitting with a friend.

can’t assess leg length or whether or not the legs fit well around thighs and calves.

I suggest tackling trouser fitting when you have already successfully fitted a bodice and a skirt, and are you’re familiar with fundamental fit processes and your own body shape.

the legs hang below the hip, so it’s important to do this next.

Now, I can’t believe I’m going to share pictures of my curvaceous middle-aged body in a sewing magazine, but I thought some of my own fit experiments early in my masters course might help you.

PICK A PATTERN

I started with a trouser block based on my hip size, graded up a size or two at the waist. You might start with a Palmer Plestch fitting pattern like this one McCall’s 6901 that offers helpful tips throughout construction and good range of sizes.

This is a good fitting order to get you started:

Top tip!

Wrinkles/draglines generally point to areas of tightness and pooling fabric indicates too much length

1. Waist: everything

hangs from here so it’s the first thing to get right.

2. Crotch depth: this is often called rise or crotch height. If this is too high or too low, you

3. Hip width: this will define how

4. Thigh width: if you have well-

defined muscles on the front thigh, you may find trousers too tight here, or if you have full outer thighs this may also affect how trousers hang.

5. Calf width: Just like the thigh width, think about what kind of fit you'll need for ease of movement.

6. Leg length: It’s a good idea to adjust

your paper pattern before cutting if you are tall/short so you’re not fitting swatches of fabric or not enough fabric in the length.

I removed all the stylistic features like the slash pockets, fly front, and so on, so I could really see the fit without being muddled with pocket openings etc. I sewed up a toile in a firm cheap cotton, and tried on the toile (without a fitting waistband since they were so large) It’s generally a really good idea to add an interfaced waistband for fitting, as the top of trousers can stretch out, then may not fit later when the waistband is added.

FIRST FIT

The trousers were way to large both at the hips and the leg, so my fit buddy set about making these a better shape.

58 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P58.indd 58

07/12/2018 15:50

skill focus SPECIAL Since the only area that really fitted me was the waist, we started by addressing the excess fabric at the back of my legs. I have a rather flat seat, so the excess was pinned as a long tuck into a more flattering shape.

The inside leg seam was also pinned in to remove the excess. (See above right photos.)

Here’s how to adjust a pattern for a full seat and opposite it, adjusting a flat seat.

Back

Full seat

Back

Full seat

Next the excess crotch length was assessed.

I know I have a short rise (crotch) which was confirmed as the toile was too long in the body for me. This was pinned out above my crotch line, rather than pinching through the inside leg.

Here’s how you can simply adjust the rise of your trouser pattern:

B

Crotch line

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier.

We recommend Claire-Louise's latest course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

Adjusting front and back rise At this stage of the fitting, the side seams were assessed. Due to the alterations at the back, the seam no longer hung perfectly straight so a ruler was used to draw a new stitch line. It’s important to take a step back and look at how seams hang when you make big adjustments like I did. I also marked a good pocket position, and a marked up where to move darts to as they weren’t in a great position. (See right.)

The final step was to pin the hem at my chosen length.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 59

LS62.P58.indd 59

07/12/2018 15:50

skill focus SPECIAL SECOND TOILE

With so many pattern adjustments, I needed a second toile to refine the fit. For my second toile I attached a waistband and inserted the pockets so I could see if they altered fit.

I pressed the grainline into the front and back of the legs to see if it hung correctly having adjusted the back so much. But there were drag lines pointed to my tummy, which indicated I needed a little more width here and there was some pooling at the crotch point indicating that I could shorten the crotch depth a little more. I actually noticed drag lines towards the knee from my hip, so I took out a wedge shape rather than a parallel adjustment and this helped re-align the grain.

Follow these instructions to add more width at the front seam for a full abdomen: draw the following two red lines and extend grain line up to waist. Slash along the top hip line and then up at a diagonal to the waistline but not through it. Now slash the grainline above this, again leaving a hinge. Spread apart to increasing both height and width along the centre front crotch seam.

hipline

crotch depth line

Adjusting for full abdomen Whilst the back leg shape looked a lot better, there was still more fabric there than I wanted and drag lines below my bottom.

Please note you will never get rid of all these draglines in a woven trouser. You need some extra length here in order to be able to bend your legs! I pinned out a fish-eye wedge below the seat and re-pinned the excess at the back as before.

Overlap line C along crotch seam by 1.5cm, tapering to zero at lower end and then overlap the waistline end of line b by 0.5cm or ¼” again to zero at lower edge.

Now overlap the upper part of pattern along the horizontal line, matching up the outer edges. Once reassembled true up the grainline.

For these adjustments draw three lines on your back pattern piece – through the dart, below the crotch point and on an angle through the rise. Cut along the horizontal line separating pattern, then cut through lines A and B, leaving a hinge at the bottom.

In the final toile I created a back princess seam separating the back piece into two.

This was inspired by a pair of McQueen trousers we examined and it enables great fit on the back leg for both flat seaters like me and those with more junk in the trunk too!

Top tip!

B C A

When the rise is too short, the waistline will dip down, and you may get the appearance of ‘camel toe’. This also feels pretty uncomfortable!

60 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P58.indd 60

07/12/2018 15:50

SEWING ROOM Keepin’ it reel

Let’s face it, being a sewist is pretty cool and we love this quirky print from Little Gems Prints. Perch it by your sewing machine, we’re sure the play on words will make you smile every time. Keepin’ it reel print, £10 www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ LittleGemsPrints

Make it personal

Personalise your sewing room with this simple and chic print designed

by Jane Farnham. It would also make a lovely gift for a crafty friend.

Personalised Sew Happy print, £18 www notonthehigh street.com

HUNG UP ON YOU Customise your sewing space with these versatile prints

Sewing mantra

Keep those handy sewing aphorisms in check by hanging this colourful print in your crafty space. It’s simple but effective, we love it! Linocut print, £20 www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ WoahTherePickle

Home sweet home

For most of us, home is where we indulge in some relaxing sewing time so this pretty print is the perfect instigator for us to breathe a big sigh of relief as we enter our crafty space after a busy day. Home sweet home laser-cut cross stitch board, from £35 www.cottonclara.com

Vintage vibes

There’s something about vintage prints that look fabulous in sewing spaces and this detailed black and white design is at the top of our list. And, if the abundance of fabric and consistency with which you sport a tape measure doesn’t say ‘I Love to Sew’, this print is certainly a good sign. I Love to Sew poster, £8.85 www.zazzle.co.uk 94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P94 sewing room spruce.indd 94

07/12/2018 12:49

Amy says...

JOIN OUR CLUB!

Sign up EXCITING

COMPETITIONS Don’t miss our big giveaways for patterns, fabric, haberdashery and more

Size

45” wide 60” wide 45” wide 60” wide

Size

Bust

Waist

Neck to hem

6

2.77m

1.74m

2.42m

1.54m

6

361/2”

37”

351/2”

8

2.79m

1.76m

2.44m

1.56m

8

381/2”

39”

10

2.80m

1.77m

2.45m

1.57m

10

401/2”

41”

12

2.82m

1.79m

2.47m

1.59m

12

421/2”

43”

361/4”

14

2.83m

1.80m

2.48m

1.60m

14

441/2”

45”

361/2”

16

285m

1.82m

2.50m

1.62m

16

461/2”

47”

363/4”

18

2.86m

1.83m

2.51m

1.63m

18

481/2”

49”

37”

20

2.88m

1.85m

2.53m

1.65m

20

501/2”

51”

371/4”

TODAY It only takes two

Sewing Bee

minutes to register an account

GOSSIP

Stay up to date with the latest news about the return of the series in 2019!

353/4” 36”

Inspiring ideas SR26 Cocoon Dress envelope.indd 1

From clever projects to great sewing room décor suggestions, we’ll spark your imagination

SEWING SHOP

PATTERN DOWNLOADS 25/01/2018 10:59

Boost your stash with our pattern shop and pick up any back issues you might have missed

Find downloadable templates for dressmaking, home and accessories projects

Head to www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/club62 to join

in the fun!

64 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

LS62.P64.indd 64

07/12/2018 15:07