RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | CULINARY TRAVEL CELEBRATING THE FOOD & DRINK OF 速
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER
l 2012 | Issue 16-05 | FREE | EATmagazine.ca
Bite into this! Potato Love New Restaurants Elderberry Merlot Corn Beijing Now Wine on Tap Fall Festivals
Pork en Croute
Autumn on a plate
EAT m Local markets are all about freshness, fun, and community. Vendors of these markets make, bake, and grow everything. Farmers bring to you their farm-fresh, wholesome foods, from fruits & vegetables, organics,,meats, seafood, and eggs to specialty cheese, jams, salsa, donuts, and so much more. Artisan offer specialty, one-of-a-kind, locally-made pottery products .Connect directly with local farmers who personally bring their goods to your plate. or the Enjoy quality seasonal food, picked at the height of its natural harvest. Take time to support local farmers and artisans in an atmosphere of festivity and community to positively impact your environment by buying within the shortest distance to where you live. Good for you; good for everyone.
RECIPES Get Stuffe Potatoes
FEATUR Organic F
FESTIVA Chef ’s Su Art of the
Moss Street Market
T The he L Le e James C Creuset reBay use tS Stainless tainless Steel Steel Market Saturdays Cookware C(9am-3pm), ookwMay-Oct are Saturdays (10am-2pm), May-Oct Corner of Moss St and Fairfield Rd
EAT is delive in BC includ Kelowna, Th
Corner of Menzies and Superior
Downtown Victoria Public Market Wednesdays (12pm-5pm), Apr-Oct Market Square, 560 Johnson Street
Oaklands Sunset Series Wed, Jul 4, Jul 18, Aug 1, Aug 15 (6pm-10pm) Oaklands Community Centre, 2827 Belmont Ave
...savour the experience
Goldstream Station Market
Food Repo Tofino | U Victoria: Re Web Repor Deanna Lad Contributo Jen Dart, Jas Kusiewicz, An Morris, Eliza Tourigny, Sco
Saturdays (10am-2pm), May26-Oct Downtown Langford, Bryn Maur Rd
Peninsula Country Market
Saturdays (9am-1pm), May-Oct 1528 Stellys Cross Rd, Central Saanich
North Saanich Farm Market
Saturdays (9:30am-12:30pm), EnginJune-Oct eered for high performance, the Saint John’s United Church, 10990 Tri-P ly staWest inless Saanich steel haRd s a pure
aluminum Sidney Summer Market ensuring
core from base to rim,
quick and even heat Thursdays (5:30pm-8:30pm), Jun-Aug distribution. Beacon Avenue in Sidney B r i d a l R e g i sSalt t r y Spring Av a i l a bMarket le Saturdays (8:30am-4pm), Apr-Oct Centennial Park in the heart of Ganges
Broadmead VillaMetchosin ge, Victoria Farmers’ Market Sundays 130-777 Royal O ak Drive(11am-2pm), May-Oct 250-727-24450 110 Happy Valley Rd, behind the firehall
for people who love to cook
EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012
Tel: 250.384 Email: edito
join us for the festival, for further information visit
Since 1998 | E
without the wri
in the articles ar
the right to refu
Tapas Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .09
FEATURES Organic Fair . . . . . . . . . . . ...37
Good For You . . . . . . . . .12
FESTIVALS + EVENTS Chef ’s Survial Challenge .....8 Art of the Cocktail . . . . .....43
Moss St. Market
RECIPES Get Stuffed . . . . . . . . . . . .....24 Potatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .....30
Four Desserts . . . . . . . . . .....46
Concierge Desk . . . . . . . 06 Meet the Chef . . . . . . . . .10
tastes like comfort.
Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Eating Well For Less . . . .20 Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .34 Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .36
Season starts April 7, 2012
Wine & Food Pairing . . .38 Jeremy Ferguson
e festival, ation visit
EAT magazine september & october 2012
Donghuamen Night Market Lamb. Pg 44
News from around BC . .39 VINcabulary . . . . . . . . . .42
The corner of Moss St and Farifield Rd Rain or shine. MossStreetMarket.com
Epicure At Large . . . . . . .44 Chefs’ Talk . . . . . . . . . . .47 Cover photography: “Pork en Croute” by Michael Tourigny
EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locations in BC including Victoria, Vancouver, Kelowna, The Islands and the Okanagan
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Editor in Chief Gary Hynes Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg DRINK Editor Treve Ring Senior Wine Writer Larry Arnold Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear
Traditional Beef & Vegetable Stew Visit our recipe section for more of Metchosin Farmers’ Market your favourite comfort food.
Food Reporters Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet Web Reporters Sundays (11am-2pm), May-Oct Deanna Ladret, Ellie Shortt, Van Doren Chan 4450 Happy Valley Rd, behind the firehall Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Ezra Cipes, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Michaela Kusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, Saturdays (10am-2pm), May26-Oct MichaelLangford, Bryn Maur Rd Morris, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, Downtown Tourigny, Scott Trudeau, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.
Goldstream Station Market
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www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012
THE ARE SO MANY REASONS TO CELEBRATE THE RETURN OF AUTUMN FOR ME, SUMMERS are a period of rest. The tone is set for relaxed evenings outdoors and easy dinners on the barbecue. Languid days with trips to the farmers market, bringing home bags full of fresh-picked vegetables and fruits. If I can leave the office early, I go for a swim with my wife followed by G+T’s or white wine in mismatched glasses on the back deck. Casual and easy. Salty nuts are nibbled, books are read, and ice cream is devoured. Then, the sun begins to set earlier and the nights bring a welcome cool, making it easier to sleep. I get the spring back in my step and my cooking is more energetic. Market stalls, once filled with lemon cucumbers and strawberries, are now brimming with colourful squashes and various varieties of crisp apples. I anticipate creamy soups and hot chocolate in front of the fire. Cookbooks come out and new recipes are tried. My thoughts turn to slow-braised pork, pear tarte tatin and my addiction to cheese returns—runny Brie de Meaux or an earthy tomme are paired to baguette. Intense red wines are savoured in big Riedel
wine glasses. In September, I begin to anticipate October’s Thanksgiving with its roast turkey (free-range and ordered weeks in advance) and all the fixin’s enjoyed with family and friends. We always try to come up with a big feast to celebrate the occasion, and to set a fine table. It’s our custom in EAT to shine the spotlight on all things local and this autumn issue is no different. We visit a new crop of restaurants and cafes, share our recipes (the pumpkin squares on pg. 26 are awesome), bring you the latest food news, and recommend wines for you to drink. We hope that the best of British Columbia makes its way onto your table as the weather cools and a new season arrives. —Gary Hynes, Editor
My friend this place best food prepared passionate a very com 161 adds c to downto must visi regular sp
Just Jakes Great foo salads and Veggie B Jake's Cl Cowichan celiac me room for J Just Jakes were here
organic bakery & café
Proudly milling Vancouver island grown wheat Using 99% locally grown and certified organic ingredients 1517 Quadra Street Victoria, BC 4
EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012
Monday to Friday 7:30am to 6pm Saturday 8am to 5pm
You're go Firehouse firehouse It's got a last Wedne to jazz fo way, I had and tried s take you t
trips to the wed by G+T’s
king is more crisp apples. ed pork, pear in big Riedel and friends.
recipes (the its way onto
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My friend Bill Fedorev told me about this place. He said “...Some of the best food in this part of the Island prepared by talented, creative and passionate people, served right and in a very comfortable atmosphere. Bistro 161 adds character, charm and colour to downtown Duncan, making it a must visit place for tourists and a regular spot for locals." Let's try it! Love Angie
Dear Mom and Dad,
Bistro 161 161 Kenneth St Duncan 250.746.6466 bistro161.net
Hey big brother,
Just Jakes 45 Craig Street Duncan, BC 250.746.5622 justjakes.ca
As an architect you'd appreciate this 1940's pub that was just newly renovated. It has exposed beams and a 100 year old bar that serves the best fresh hand-crafted brews. I had the Heff, Chris' new wheat brew and the BBQ pulled pork ciabatta. You'd love it. I'll take you there next time you're in town. My treat. Steve
Craig Street Brew Pub 25 Craig Street Duncan, BC 250.737.2337 craigstreet.ca
You're going to love this. The Old Firehouse is a wine bar in an original firehouse in the old town of Duncan. It's got a huge selection of wine and last Wednesday night I sat and listened to jazz for a couple of hours. By the way, I had the chicken pesto flatbread and tried several wines. I can't wait to take you there!
City Square Grill 281 Canada Avenue Duncan, BC 250.746.1700 citysquaregrill.com
Just Jakes is not just an ordinary pub. Great food - wings, pizza, burgers, salads and more. I had the Santa Fe Veggie Burger and Dave had the Jake's Club and their very own Cowichan Bay lager. And they have a celiac menu! Don't forget to leave room for Just Desserts. All I can say – Just Jakes is just awesome! Wish you were here.
It’s our first year anniversary at City Square Grill. Being a young entrepreneur, I never thought to accomplish my dream of owing a restaurant. I’ve introduced many local wineries, fresh local seafood, prime rib and feature live music. Also getting involved in the kitchen whether filleting a 40lb Halibut to baking our triple chocolate mousse tower has been an amazing journey. Can’t wait for you to visit!
The Old Firehouse Wine Bar 40 Ingram Street Duncan, BC 250.597.3473 theoldfirehouse.ca
If you like organic food, holistic health and sustainable living, you must check out the bright yellow funky building called the Duncan Garage. Inside you will find the most amazing health and whole food grocery store, vegetarian café, bakery and natural living marketplace on Vancouver Island. We even have a bookstore. It’s truly the hub of Duncan.
See you soon! Community Farm Store team
The Community Farm Store 101-330 Duncan St. Duncan, BC Store: 250.748.6227 Café & Bakery: 250.748.6223 communityfarmstore.ca
www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012
Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead
the concierge desk
by Rebecca Baugniet
For more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca
MORNING BAY'S WINESTOCK MUSIC FESTIVAL (PENDER ISLAND) Winestock is an all-day rock and roll festival at Morning Bay's oceanfront vineyard Dave Rave is one of the iconic pioneers (Teenage Head, The Shakers) of the 1977 punk explosion. Reserve Winestock tickets anytime. Contact email@example.com. Rustic camping with access to washrooms is $10 per tent per night. Bring your own water and power. Sept 1. (morningbay.ca/Winestock-music-festival.php) THE GREAT CANADIAN BEER FESTIVAL (VICTORIA) The Great Canadian Beer Festival has become one of the worlds' must-attend beer events. People from all over the globe seek out Victoria and the GCBF every year; the event attracts brewers from Australia, volunteers from England and beer lovers from all over. In support of C-Fax Santa's Anonymous, the GCBF will be held Sept 7 – 8. (gcbf.com) EAT HERE NOW 2012 LOCAL FOOD HARVEST FESTIVAL (VICTORIA) Free, family-friendly harvest festival featuring local farmers market, toonie-a-taste from amazing restaurants that support local agriculture, huge Kids Zone, local musicians and DJs. Organized by the VDPMS. All proceeds will go towards the establishment of a year-round, indoor public market in downtown Victoria. Sept. 9 from 11am-3pm in Market Square. (victoriapublicmarket.com) FEAST OF FIELDS (METRO VANCOUVER AND VANCOUVER ISLAND) Metro Vancouver’s Feast of Fields is taking place at Golden Ears Cheesecrafters in Maple Ridge this year on Sept. 9. Vancouver Island’s Feast of Fields will be held at Alderlea Farm in Duncan, Sept. 16. The event highlights the connections between producer and chef, field and table, and farm folks and city folks. This is a gastronomic journey towards a sustainable, local food system. $85 (children 7-12: $15; children 6 and under: free). Buy tickets online at feastoffields.com. WINE & CULINARY FESTIVAL (COWICHAN) The 8th Cowichan Wine and Culinary Festival will take place Sept 8-16. The Festival offers an assortment of the area’s best wines and ciders, unique farm-fresh delights from organic farms, live entertainment, green Earth seminars, and hand-blown glassware. To spend your day at the festival simply follow the detailed map available on the official website, or pick up the festival brochure at local businesses and tourist info centers. Many WIVA wineries, cideries & meaderies will be pouring at this festival! (wines.cowichan.net) TASTES OF APRIL POINT (QUADRA ISLAND) September 14 - 16. Indulge your taste buds in everything from international and Vancouver Island wines and cheeses to exotic teas, gourmet cuisine, Mediterranean olives, succulent oysters, chocolate, biodynamic wines and more during this weekend of delightful indulgence. Weekend Packages start at: $389. For more information, call 1-800-663-7090 or visit aprilpoint.com/resort/events/tastes/ 2nd ANNUAL CORK AND KEG FESTIVAL (FRASER VALLEY) The second edition of this event is a showcase of international and local wines, craft and premium beer as well as local cheesemakers and chocolatiers. The consumer event runs from 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm and ticket registration is available online. The Cork & Keg Festival will host 600 attendees from the Fraser Valley area and showcasing 55 wine and beer purveyors sampling over 275 products. Sept. 14 (corkandkeg.ca) FRASER VALLEY FOOD SHOW (ABBOTSFORD) The Fraser Valley Food Show will be held Sept 14-15 at the TRADEX Fraser Valley Trade & Exhibition Centre in Abbotsford, BC. Experience food both local and international, celebrity chef demonstrations, cooking competitions, sausage making competitions, cheese and wine seminars, Bite of the Valley participating restaurants and the Grapes and Hops wine/beer/spirits tasting pavilion. (fraservalleyfoodshow.com) CHEFMEETSBCGRAPE (VANCOUVER) 75 BC wineries will be sharing more than 300 BC VQA wines, perfectly paired with regional dishes from top Ocean Wise partner restaurants, and showcasing why BC food is designed for BC wine. September 20, 7:00 PM- 9:30 PM, Vancouver Convention Centre Eastwinebc.org/news
EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012
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FINDING FOOD IN ALL THE RIGHT PLACES (VICTORIA) A panel discussion on alternative ways to buy local food and support a local food economy. Panelists include visiting UK Bread activist Andrew Whitley and Guy Johnston of the Michelle Rose Community Supported Fishery. In the Garry Oak Room at the Fairfield Community Centre. Entrance by donation. Sept 21 from 6.30-9pm. SIP AND SAVOUR SALT SPRING (SALT SPRING ISLAND) This festival brings together growers, food providers and chefs from Salt Spring Island and neighbouring Gulf Islands, Cowichan Valley and Saanich Peninsula with vintners representing the wine growing regions of British Columbia. On Saturday evening, at 6:30pm, talented local chefs and winemakers will create a five-course dinner to be held at Channel Ridge Farm in their heritage wooden barn. There will only be 120 tickets sold for this Gala Winemakers’ Dinner at $150.00 per person (taxes and gratuity included). Sept. 22-23. (sipandsavoursaltspring.com) THE NORTH ISLAND’S GOURMET PICNIC (COMOX VALLEY) Sunday Sept. 23 from 1-4pm. A culinary showcase of some of Vancouver Island’s finest chefs, vintners and producers. Takes place at Coastal Black Estate Winery and Meadery 2186 Endall Road For tickets and more info visit gourmetpicnic.ca TASTE OF NEW ZEALAND & TASTE OF GERMANY (VICTORIA) Sept 25 & Oct 23 at Paprika Bistro. $39 - 4-course wine & food tasting with Stuart Brown. For details visit or call paprika-bistro.com 250.592.7424 BC WINE AWARDS RECEPTION & TASTING (FRASER VALLEY) This event kicks off the 2012 Fall Okanagan Wine Festival and includes the announcement of the award winning wines from the 2012 Fall Judging Competition. This medal-winning wines competition is judged by world-renowned judges judging the wines produced by our member wineries. The announcement will be followed by a reception including fabulous tapas, canapés and the opportunity to be one of the few to taste a selection of some of these award-winning wines while you still can. Sept 29. (OkanaganWineAwards.com) MADRONA FARM’S CHEF SURVIVAL CHALLENGE (VICTORIA) The 5th Annual Chef Survival Challenge will take place at Madrona Farm on Sunday, Sept 30, from noon to 6pm. Tickets are $50 per person/ $100 per family, and are now available at the Madrona Farm Vegetable Stand, 4217 Blenkinsop Road. Cheer on the region's finest chefs as they compete to find the best ingredients on the farm, then bid on the meals they create. Prizes and gift certificates from participating restaurants will be given away as well! (chefsurvivalchallenge.com)
JAMES BARBER FUNDRAISER FOR PROVIDENCE FARM (DUNCAN) This will be the second annual fundraiser for Providence Farm. The theme this year will be local honey with chefs preparing savoury and sweet dishes with this local treat. Tickets will be available through the office at Providence Farm and will be $125 for an afternoon filled with local food, wines, beers and mead. Last year’s event sold out, so make sure you get your tickets early. Oct 7. Call (250) 746 4204 for tickets. Or visit facebook: Cowichan Chefs Table. ART OF THE COCKTAIL (VICTORIA) The Art of the Cocktail is a special weekend long event fundraiser for the Victoria Film Festival. The Grand Cocktail Tasting returns and public tastings and special events will be held from Oct 13-15. (artofthecocktail.ca). BAKERS MARKET (VANCOUVER) A gathering of professional, amateur, student & mom bakers who get together to buy and sell their baked goods to the community. Inspired by farmers markets (no veggies please), just lots of sweet & savoury baked goodies. Saturdays, from 11am-3pm, at the Moberly Arts and Cultural Centre, 7646 Prince Albert Street, Vancouver. Oct 6 –Dec 8. (bakersmarket.com) THE 20TH ANNUAL BITE OF NANAIMO (NANAIMO) Oct. 19 from 4pm- 9pm at the Beban Park Auditorium. The 19th Annual Bite of Nanaimo is a tasty fundraiser for TheatreOne. Tickets available now. (theatreone.org). coming up... WINTER BLUES BBQ (UCLULET) Nov 3. Annual outdoor BBQ featuring live music by Headwater! and Marc Crissinger. Adam Protter of Big Smoke Mountain BBQ will be here again serving up his award winning BBQ meats and homemade sauces. Outdoor tenting, signature bourbon bar and all you can eat gourmet BBQ and side dishes. Black Rock Resort. Tickets available at 1-877-762-5011. blackrockresort.com
www.eatmagazine.ca SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012
BACK IN SESSION THIS FALL...
community causes — by Joseph Blake
Chef Survival Challenge
Madrona Farm’s popular harvest feast, now in its fifth year, proves the farm is surviving—and thriving.
Courtesy of Chef’s Survival
EAT MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2012
WHEN I VISITED Madrona Farm recently, Nathalie Chambers was out by the chicken house feeding her heritage hens and gathering eggs. A passionate, self-described “ advocate for agricultural ecology,” the young farmer was full of news about the Blenkinsop Road property’s upcoming Chef Survival Challenge on September 30 from noon to 5 p.m. The event, now in its fifth year, showcases the culinary art and physical endurance of two dozen of Victoria’s best chefs who insist upon local, sustainable produce. They compete in a farm-style obstacle course and forage for produce used in unique cooking demonstrations. Their culinary masterpieces are then auctioned off to the crowd, and the chef whose meal receives the highest bid wins the coveted Golden Broccoli Trophy. The event includes the by-now-infamous boat race to “condiment island,” an irrigation-pipe crawl, haystack hurdles and more. A catered meal, live music and children’s activities are included in the $40 admission ($100 for families; wine and beer for purchase). It’s been just over two years since the farm was bought by the Land Conservancy of B.C. after an outpouring of support that helped raise funds to conserve the 27-acre farm run by David and Natalie Chambers. David is a farmer following in the footsteps of his grandfather Lawrence, who began farming Madrona in 1951. Lawrence’s wife, Ruth Chambers, fought for decades to save Blenkinsop Valley’s agricultural roots, and Nathalie feels a strong kinship with her efforts. When David and Nathalie married and moved to Madrona in 1999, she began her own battle to save the farm through what she calls “agricultural ecology—creating high levels of biodiversity, which is the best way to create sustainability.” “We have the greatest bird diversity in Victoria, more than 50 species,” Chambers explained. “And you should hear the roar the frogs in our pond make at night. I’m working on a native pollinator enhancement project. We have 450 native species of bees in B.C. and that biodiversity is the solution to the disease created by imported honeybees. The event is an important fundraiser for the farm, which is clearly not resting on any laurels now it is owned by the TLC. “I’m not going to sit around and let the current recession dictate our food security,” says Nathalie. “I learned from our campaign to save Madrona Farm that I’m an agricultural fundraiser—4,500 people contributed $2.7 million to save the farm. I’ve created a new project, the Big Dream Farm Fund, for this year’s Chef Survival Challenge.” “Eighty percent of the Big Dream Farm Fund will go towards farmland acquisition, the other 20 percent for agriculture sustainability education,” Chambers explains. “We’re also planning a travelling road show to take the Chef Survival Challenge across Canada, and several networks are interested in turning it into a reality show. “Ever since David and I started our Roadside Chefs Cooking Demonstrations at the stand on Blenkinsop Road, I’ve thought of the farm as an imagination playground. The first Chef Survival Challenge in 2008 put Madrona Farm on the map, and it gets bigger and better every year.” For info and tickets, visit www.chefsurvivalchallenge.com or Madrona Farm Gate, 4317 Blenkinsop Rd. Wed-Sat 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
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FROM BEHIND THE CAR WASH in Pemberton wafts the sweet aroma of fresh baking. I follow it to the Good Life CafĂŠ and spy a wiry and energetic 70-ish woman taking a large cake pan from the oven. â€œItâ€™s fruit buckle. Bet you donâ€™t know that term,â€? she says, slicing into the cake, then offering me a generous sample. â€œI do,â€? I say. â€œI used to live in New England.â€? (home of the buckle). Cynthia grins. She hails from Maine. A buckle is fruit-laden coffee cake. Good Lifeâ€™s version is dense with lots of berries, yet possesses a delicate crumb. Sugar and cinnamon in the floury topping is neither too much nor too little. With a steaming mug of roasty java, itâ€™s a lovely dessert for breakfast. Buckles are in the same camp as grunts, slumps, cobblers, crumbles or crisps, betties and pandowdies. Most are mired in New England cookery and the best are made with ripe fruit at the peak of the season. Excepting buckle, which is made with cake batter, they are essentially no-pastry pies. Rather than a top and bottom pie crust, dumpling or biscuit dough is dropped onto sweetened fruit, or pieces of chilled butter pebble a mix of flour and sugar. Sometimes oats are added to sweetened fruit. Sometimes breadcrumbs are used. The pudding is then baked or steamed. Opinions vary widely regarding the difference between a cobbler and a crisp, or a slump and a grunt. Should a buckle be layered with fruit or have the fruit mixed in? Should it be served upside down? Really, it doesnâ€™t matter a fig (or apple, or peach, or blueberry). Upside down or right side up, they are all pretty darn delicious. The crazy names mimic what happens in the pan during cooking. With a cobbler, side-by-side drop biscuits rise to look like cobblestones. Crumble toppings â€œcrispâ€? in a hot oven. Fruit â€œbucklesâ€? in batter or â€œslumpsâ€? in the pan, or â€œgruntsâ€? as it stews in its juices. The etymology of â€œpandowdyâ€? is uncertain. I think it may be a corruption of â€œpain,â€? the French word for bread, and dowdy, meaning plain. Because tasty as it is, I wouldnâ€™t call this pieâ€”made with apples, brown sugar or molasses, and broken dough piecesâ€”pretty. Where the name Betty comes from escapes me, but it too relies on apples, spiced and layered amidst breadcrumbs. With some help from Google and A History of Food, I patch together how these fruit-and starch puddings likely came about. Colonial settlers did what they could with what they had in order to riff on their beloved steamed puddings. They brought the apple to America and planted orchards. Apples thrived. They also stored well. Blueberries and blackberries grew wild. The peach did particularly well in the South. The farmsâ€™ cows and chickens offered milk and eggs. Flour was no doubt milled from homegrown wheat. It seems sugar was easy to come by. I can picture poorer folk using stale bread for toppings, and lard instead of butter for fat when making biscuits or dumplings. Iâ€™ll bet, too, fancy bakeware was scarce. That would necessitate cooking sweet things in the same skillets, Dutch ovens and earthenware used to braise meat. These fruit stews were not just desserts. They provided the worker with ballast before a hard dayâ€™s work in field or forge. My bookcase holds a well-thumbed copy of Fine Old New England Recipes (Culinary Arts Press) I bought in Massachusetts 40 years ago. Recipes for berry grunt and Hyannis slump, blueberry Betty and apple pandowdy with pudding sauce, which is a concoction of eggs, sugar and brandy, are as easy to make now as then. June Plattâ€™s New England Cook Book (McClelland and Stewart, 1971) also offers easy methods for making slumps, buckles and crisps. These fruit and starch puddings soon made it to the Maritimes. Nova Scotia, known for its abundance of wild, lowbush blueberries, put its own signature on blueberry grunt. My favourite recipe for this dessert comes from Out of Old Nova Scotia Kitchens (H.H. Marshall 1981). I canâ€™t think of a better way to celebrate a crisp fall day than a basket of firm, sweet apples or wild berries made into one of these early country desserts. Excuse me while I grunt and slump to the kitchen.
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