RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | CULINARY TRAVEL 速
NOVEMBER | DECEMBER
l 2012 | Issue 16-06 | FREE | EATmagazine.ca
Blackberry Lemon Trifle
FRESH F O O D & EASY TRUCK CIOPPINO REVIEWS
W I N E S T R AV E L FOR NEAR WINTER H O M E
Victoria’s V ictoria’s bes bestt unknown unknown brunch
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RECIPES Old Schoo Boozy Yea
DIAMONDS ARE BETTER HEAT CONDUCTORS DIAMONDS ARE MORE DURABLE
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Dordogne truf truffle. Pg 8
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2012
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RECIPES Old School Yule . . . . . . . .....22 Boozy Yeast Cakes . . . . .....26 FEATURES Oyama Sausage Co. . . . . ...46
Tapas Concierge Desk . . . . . . . 06 Epicure At Large . . . . . . .08 Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .09 Good For You . . . . . . . . .10 Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Eating Well For Less . . . .16
weâ€™re ready for you
Travel Close to Home . . .20 Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .32
Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .36 Wine & Food Pairing . . .38 News from around BC . .40 Dordogne truffiste Henri Dussolras noses a summer truffle. Pg 8
VINcabulary . . . . . . . . . .42 Chefsâ€™ Talk . . . . . . . . . . .47
Cover photography: â€œBlackberry Trifleâ€? by Michael Tourigny
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Editor in Chief Gary Hynes Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg DRINK Editor Treve Ring Senior Wine Writer Larry Arnold Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear Food Reporters Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan: Lindsay Muir | Nanaimo: Kirsten Tyler Web Reporters Colin Hynes, Van Doren Chan, Elisabeth Nyland Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Kusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Elizabeth Smyth Monk, Michaela Morris, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Michael Tourigny, Scott Trudeau, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.
Christmas is at our place.
Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ÂŽ is a registered trademark. Advertising: 250.384.9042, firstname.lastname@example.org Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: email@example.com Website: eatmagazine.ca Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.
$VTUPNFS4FSWJDFtXXXUISJGUZGPPETDPN www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2012
The end of a very good year of eating
IT’S THE END OF THE YEAR, and once again we are voting for our favourite Exceptional Eats! This is the fourth year that EAT has been hosting these awards and, as always, I let readers choose the best places to eat and drink in their community themselves. Why? Because I value the opinions of the people who are out there dining, shopping for food, wine, and beer, taking the cooking classes, going to the festivals and meeting the people who are doing extraordinary things; and because readers vote with their wallets—they put their money where their mouths are, if you will. If an experience is fantastic, they remember it and go back. Think of the Exceptional Eats! Awards as a portrait of who we are as an eating and drinking community. Who gets the buzz this year? What trended up and what didn’t? Which restaurant dish got the most rave reviews? Who’s been following sustainable
practices, and where you will find a great lunch. Put all these opinions together and you have the Exceptional Eats! Awards—the ultimate readers’ list of good things to eat and drink—right here, right now. Each year, when the award winners are announced in March, I take this collected wisdom (I call it the “readers’ eating guide short list”) and use it to discover new places and new things to eat and drink. Let’s be thankful that we have so many choices—the ability to eat sweet and briny oysters straight from the sea, the option to dine on an a delicious sandwich or a complex Asian dish, to drink a gorgeous cocktail at a high octane bar, and the freshest produce in the country. And let’s remember to share. Applaud your favourites and vote in the 4th Annual Exceptional Eats! Awards Reader Survey. To be part of this year’s Exceptional Eat! visit www.eatmagazine.ca and click on VOTE. The polls are open. Wishing everyone a Merry Holiday and a Happy New Year, —Gary Hynes, Editor
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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2012
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The time has come! Announcing The 4th Annual Exceptional Eats! Reader Awards
Who has the BEST food? drinks?
Cast your vote at www.eatmagazine.ca ENTER TO WIN A two night stay and gourmet dinner at the Marriott Victoria Inner Harbour * details below ood day and welcome back to the Exceptional Eats! Readers Choice Awards. It has been another year of promising new haunts and fantastic old faithfuls. Looking back, how has your year in food been, both at home and out and about?
Each year Eat Magazine sits back and considers what has been going on over the year. You may notice new questions reflecting some of the culinary shifts and evolutions of 2012; other questions have been left alone this year. Food and food culture is deep rooted, and organic and shifting. As such, we at Eat Magazine think it only right to integrate this reality into our Exceptional Eats! Readers Choice Awards in keeping the questions current and vital. Please do take your time and answer the questions that you want to and can answer. It is important and valuable to celebrate what is happening in food and drink and those who are making it happen. Discuss the Exceptional Eats! questions with friends, family or a spouse, or simply mull them over with a glass of your favorite libation. Plus, it is fun to fill out compelling surveys that could land you a delectable prize! Thanks for your time, and now – we begin.
Go to www.eatmagazine.ca - click on VOTE and be heard. It will take only a few minutes and at the end you will be rewarded by being entered into this year’s prize draw. Results will be published and the winners announced and celebrated in our March/April 2013 issue. The past results and winners for the 3rd Annual EE Reader Awards can be seen online at www.eatmagazine.ca/2012-exceptional-eats-results RULES • Only one ballot per person • Polls close at midnight on Monday, December 31, 2012 • Awards results will be announced in the March/April 2013 issue of EAT.
* Visit www.eatmagazine.ca and click on VOTE. Once you have completed the poll you will be entered in the draw for a two night deluxe stay and 3-course gourmet dinner with a bottle of wine at the Marriott Victoria Inner Harbour www.marriottvictoria.com
Voting areas: VICTORIA & The ISLANDS • VANCOUVER • THE OKANAGAN www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2012
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BAKERS MARKET (VANCOUVER) A gathering of professional, amateur, student bakers who get together to buy and sell their baked goods to the community. Talented budding, professional home bakers selling freshly baked artisanal breads, German pretzels, French macaroons, croissants, gourmet cookies, hand made chocolates, brownies, Belgian Liege waffles, cupcakes, cake pops, scones, organic muffins, gluten-free, vegan baked goods, preserves, tarts and much more. Indoors at Moberly Arts & Cultural Centre on Saturdays through November until Dec. 8th www.bakersmarket.com
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For more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca
KOOTENAY WINE FESTIVAL (COLUMBIA VALLEY) The 11th Annual East Kootenay Wine Festival at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort takes place November 3rd Friday. www.fairmonthotsprings.com
WINTER FARMER’S MARKET AT MARKET SQUARE (VICTORIA) Following the great success of Eat Here Now 2012 on September 9th, the Victoria Downtown Public Market Society is pleased to announce that they are putting on two local food markets a month to be held on the first and third Saturdays in Market Square from November to March. November 3rd and 17th, December 1st and 15th. www.victoriapublicmarket.com BC BITES & BEVERAGES (VICTORIA) Nov. 8. Food from the Home Front is the third event in the six part BC Bites and Beverages series. Author Carolyn Herriot hosts the evening as guests learn about ‘Victory Gardens’ and agriculture practises on the home front. Appetizers and tapas created from the BC Archives recipe books will circulate the room as people mingle and explore the world of local agriculture. http://calendar.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca AN EVENING WITH ERIC AKIS (VICTORIA) Nov 8. Food writer, author and food consultant Eric Akis joins the London Chef to share his favourite stories, tips and recipes from his new and seventh book Everyone Can Cook Everything. During the evening Eric will demonstrate four recipes from this beautiful, photo-rich, 400-pages-plus hardcover volume. Each participant will leave with a signed copy of Everyone Can Cook Everything. For more information about Eric Akis, visit www.everyonecancook.com. For more information on the event, or to register, visit www.thelondonchef.com. CORNUCOPIA (WHISTLER) Celebrate gourmet food coupled with fine wine at Whistler from November 7th-11th. Sit in on fascinating seminars with wineries, critics and wine professionals, or attend winemaker dinners where sumptuous multi-course meals are paired with a variety of wines. Swirl, sniff and sip a selection of vintages at various tasting events or take a Chef's Trip to the Farm. Visit the Whistler Cornucopia website to buy tickets and see full event details www. whistlercornucopia.com OTTAVIO’S SWISS WEEK (OAK BAY) Celebrate Swiss Week at Ottavio’s November 8-12th. There will be Swiss cheese samplings all week and discounts on all their Swiss cheeses for the week. Now is the season when the high alpine cheeses really shine, built on the fresh grasses & herbs in the spring & summer fields. Also, perhaps the best grilled cheese ever served for the week in the cafe with housemade ketchup. 2272 Oak Bay Ave. COOK CULTURE’S HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE (VICTORIA) Cook Culture is hosting their 2nd Annual Holiday Open House on November 10th. They will have chefs in the kitchen all day long with loads of in store specials to help wipe most things off your holiday list. www.cookculture.com WINEMAKERS DINNER (SAANICH) Muse Winery’s Annual Winemakers Dinner with Deep Cove Chalet Restaurant will take place November 10th. More details to follow on their website www.musewinery.ca Reserve by contacting Muse Winery 250-656-2552. CLAYOQUOT OYSTER FESTIVAL (TOFINO) The Clayoquot Oyster Festival is a memorable celebration of one of the ocean's most coveted culinary delights, the oyster. As a region, Clayoquot Sound is a great
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cultivator and consumer of this special bivalve, annually growing over 50,000 gallons of oysters a year and over the festival weekend slurping back over 8,000. From November 15-17, the community of Tofino in beautiful Clayoquot Sound will go to great lengths to honour the humble oyster. www.oystergala.com 2012 GOLD MEDAL PLATES CULINARY COMPETITION (VANCOUVER) Gold Medal Plates is the ultimate celebration of Canadian excellence in cuisine, wine, sport and entertainment. The Vancouver competition is one of ten that will be staged in Canadian cities this fall, with the winners from each city competing in the Canadian Culinary Championships in Kelowna next February. November 16th at the Westin Bayshore. For more information, visit www.goldmedalplates.com.
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CULINARY TOUR OF CHINATOWN (VICTORIA) Join chef Heidi Fink as she takes you for a 2-1/2 hour walking tour through Victoria's historic Chinatown. This food-focused tour will help you navigate the rich and complex world of Asian cuisines. From Chinese sauces to Thai noodles, from unusual vegetables to a guided tasting of Chinese teas, you will learn everything you need (and more!) to help you get the most from Asian recipes and ingredients. November 18th. Visit www.chefheidifink.com for more information.
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TRAINS DELUXE PRE-CHRISTMAS GALA DINNER (CRANBROOK) These gourmet gala dinners have been presented for many years in the Museum's sumptuous award-winning (2007 Heritage Canada's Restoration Achievement) Royal Alexandra Hall. A pre-dinner Champagne Reception, followed by 9 courses, with selected wines and professional entertainment between courses. A great start to the Christmas season in the Rockies. Dinner served Nov 24th. www.trainsdeluxe.com
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GIFTS FROM THE CHRISTMAS KITCHEN (VICTORIA) Give the gift of delicious homemade goodies in this make-it and take-it class at the London Chef. Make a festive spiced pear and cranberry chutney, a layered chocolate chunk cookie mix complete with baking instructions, and irresistible cinnamon and honey candied pecans. Then gather around our table to decorate your goodies with a selection of holiday ribbons and other festive craft supplies. Class costs $90 and is offered December 2nd or 9th. www.thelondonchef.com FINE VINTAGE LTD. WSET LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION CERTIFICATE (VICTORIA) The WSET Level 1 Award in Wines course is an introductory course suited to those with a basic knowledge of wine as well as total beginners. There are no pre-requisites to take this course. The Level 1 course focuses on learning the art of wine tasting, pairing food and wine, and covers the characteristics of the major grape varieties. Learn about grape growing and winemaking, serving and cellaring wine, and receive an overview on local wines.Wine tastings included in this one-day course. Saturday, Dec 15th. www.finevintageltd.com THE 3RD ANNUAL GINGERBREAD HOUSE EVENT (KELOWNA) This event is â€œBringing Gingerbread to Lifeâ€? on December 16th, and aspires to bring the community together to experience the enjoyment, creativity, and beauty of gingerbread houses in support of the Okanagan Boys and Girls Clubs. Get involved and marvel in the beauty of gingerbread. www.gingerbreadevent.com JANUARY WINTER OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL (OKANAGAN) From January 12 to 20, 2013, Sun Peaks Resort and the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society offer those who love wine and winter recreation the most novel of wine festivals. Set amidst the charming pedestrian village, the annual Winter Okanagan Wine Festival is a unique marriage of culinary events, wine tastings, educational seminars, and outdoor recreation showcasing the famous wine varietals of BC's Okanagan Wine Country. www.thewinefestivals.com THE SEVENTH ANNUAL OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL (Oregon) The 7th Annual Oregon Truffle Festival will be held in and around Eugene, Oregon over three brisk winter days from January 25-27, 2013. Created to celebrate the magnificent Oregon truffles as they reach the peak of ripeness in their native soil, it is the first festival of its kind in North America, dedicated to sharing the experience of the chefs, foragers and fans of Oregon's wild truffles, from their hidden source in the forest to their glory on the table. www.oregontrufflefestival.com
www.eatmagazine.ca NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2012
epicure at large — by Jeremy Ferguson
The Black Queen of Cuisine The round, ripe, aromatic Périgord truffle, Tuber melanosporum, is pure truffle royalty. MY FIRST TRUFFLE was in the Dordogne, Périgord of yore, the heart of gastronomie. It was a soft summer dusk. We were dining on the perched terrace of our hotel, a 14thcentury chateau. The kitchen could have served us boiled newts and we would have loved it. The dish was whole black truffle in puff pastry, and it was almost the cost of a mortgage payment. As we cut into the pastry, a gust of truffle hit us smack in the chops—dizzyingly aromatic, musky, sweet. And gilding his gastronomic lily, the chef had set the truffle on a slice of foie gras. I haven’t eaten anything like it since. This truffle was the real thing, tuber mylanosporum, the round, ripe Périgord truffle known as “the black queen of cuisine.” Truffle royalty, she seizes you by the olfactory lapels and has her way with you. The truffle was a delicacy in Mesopotamia in 1800 B.C. The ancient Egyptians cherished it poached in goose fat. The Romans declared it aphrodisiac, and the association lingers to this day—maybe because the truffle’s musky aroma is caused by the same sex pheromone found in male sweat. In the Middle Ages, the truffle was vanquished as the work of the devil and almost literally stomped out. It staged a comeback in the Renaissance. Louis XIV consumed a pound a day This subterranean fungus materializes around certain oak trees in extremely poor soil. Pigs and boars adore it, but the day of the truffiste—the truffle hunter—roaming the woods with ecstatic swine is long gone. Now dogs, not hogs, root out the prize. In the Dordogne, we went hunting with truffiste Henri Dussolras, whose sidekick was Kiki, a mutt with a Cyrano snout for the good things in life. “Cherche, Kiki, cherche!” shouted Henri as we forged through stands of oak trees. Kiki was more interested in marking his territory. “No pee-pee, Kiki!” cried Henri.
The dog burrowed his nose into the soil, pointing the way to a large grey-black lump. It was a summer truffle, a black queen lookalike, but vastly milder in aroma and flavour. Kiki didn’t realize he was big business. At $1,000 per pound, the truffle ranks as the most expensive food in the world. Earlier this year, the world’s largest Périgord black truffle, weighing 1.3 kilos, sold for about $2,000. The truffle-laden hamburger at New York’s DB Bistro Moderne sells for a cool $150. But the world supply is on the increase. Dramatic breakthroughs in truffle cultivation are changing the international picture. Eugene, Oregon, hosts an annual Truffle Festival. Vancouver chefs David Hawksworth and Pino Posteraro swear by Australian truffles. New World countries including Canada, New Zealand and Chile have tossed their hats in the ring. And China stands accused of truffle knock-offs, flooding the market with nasty facsimiles, often with bogus French labels. Prices remain stratospheric, but cunning spinoffs are making the celestial sensation accessible to the peasantry. Here in Victoria, Ottavio and Choux Choux Charcuterie offer whole black truffles, truffle slices in oil, truffle salt, truffle paste, truffle butter, truffled cheeses and truffle oil. The oil—truffle-flavoured olive or grapeseed oil that usually contains nary a speck of real truffle—does the trick for pasta sauces, truffled frites and, most amusingly, popcorn. A sprinkle of truffle salt glamorizes everything from fried eggs to potatoes. Truffle paste— truffle mixed with mushrooms—is dandy on toast for breakfast, layered in puff pastry as an app or stirred into sauces. And although the BC Liquor Board doesn’t see fit to give us a shot at it, Black Moth Vodka comes infused with Perigord truffles. My wife Carol lovingly follows a recipe for the signature dish at Truffles, the late restaurant at the Four Seasons Toronto: spaghettini with Perigord black gold and truffle emulsion sauce. She begins by stirring a mixture of truffle paste and truffle oil into hot chicken stock. She folds the mixture into whipped cream. She boils and drains the spaghettini, tosses it with half the sauce and arranges it on a plate. To finish, she drizzles the remaining sauce over the pasta then gilds each plate with chervil and several slices of black truffle. Guests have been known to emulate the host and faint with bliss.
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