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EAT Magazine May-June 2015_Victoria_56_Layout 1 5/4/15 10:05 AM Page 1

RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | FOOD | TRAVEL 速

Smart. Local. Delicious.

fresh FROM

fresh pea soup with beet pesto MAY | JUNE

l 2015 | Issue 19-03 | eatmagazine.ca

THE GARDEN

CELEBRATING

16 YEARS OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK


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Smart. Local. Delicious.

content DEPARTMENTS 06 FROM THE EDITOR

g Food 07 CONCIERGE DESK Monthly calendar of events + festivals

10 Good For You Slurgeworthy

11 Food Matters Escargot

12 Get Fresh Fiddleheads

13 Epicure At Large Sausages

g

Restaurants

16 Reporter Olo, Standard Pizza, The Ruby, Marina Sushi, Tectoria

22 Eating Well For Less 6 Mile Pub, Salt Spring Cheese, Victoria BBQ House

g Features

24 Blue Grouse Estate Winery Building a new winery

26 Pilgrimme An exceptional chef on Galiano Island

28 Eat with Zero Waste Reducing food waste in Victoria

g Recipes

32 Local Kitchen Give Peas a Chance

g Wine

& Beer

25 Cocktail of the Month New gins

46 Vincabulary Gamay

47 Beer & a Bite Moon Brewery’s Light Side of the Moon

48 Wine + Terroir A new direction for Australia

50 Wine & Food Pairing Pairing Spanish dishes

51 Liquid Assets Larry Arnold recommends10 wines

g

Community

53 What the Pros Know: Juice bars 54 The Buzz: All the news that fit to print... and then some

Freshly baked BBQ Pork buns at Victoria BBQ House and Bakery Story on page 23 photo by E. Nyland

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EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015

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E AT FOUNDER & EDITOR Gary Hynes PUBLISHER Pacific Island Gourmet ASSISTANT EDITOR Colin Hynes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Julie Pegg DRINK EDITOR Treve Ring SENIOR WINE WRITER Larry Arnold ART DIRECTION Gary Hynes COPYEDITORS Cynthia Annett REGIONAL REPORTERS Tofino | Ucluelet Jen Dart | Victoria Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up Island Kirsten Tyler CONTRIBUTORS Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Holly Brooke, Adam Cantor, Cinda Chavich, John Crawford, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Colin Hynes, Jon Johnson, Sol Kaufman, Tracey Kusiewicz, Sophie MacKenzie, Sherri Martin, Elizabeth Monk, Michaela Morris, Simon Nattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Tim Pawsey, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Kaitlyn Rosenburg, Adrien Sala, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman. Cover photography by Michael Tourigny

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

OUR ETHICAL GUIDING PRINCIPALS 1. EAT has advertisers in our magazine and on our website; they are our primary source of income. Our company, Pacific Island Gourmet, employs a dedicated advertising team responsible for selling ad space in EAT and on EatMagazine.ca. The EAT editorial team does not accept money or other consideration from companies as a condition or incentive to write a review or story. All editorial content on EAT is based on the editor’s discretion, not on the desire of any company, advertiser or PR firm. Occasionally EAT and EatMagazine.ca may publish sponsor content, which will be labelled. 2. EAT contributors are not allowed to ask for free meals or drinks. Anyone identifying themselves as being on assignment for EAT will be able to prove their employment.

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Gary Hynes SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Susan Worrall DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Lindsay Van Gyn VANCOUVER SALES Clevers Media

HOW TO REACH EAT MAGAZINE ADVERTISING 250.384.9042, editor@eatmagazine.ca WEBSITE EatMagazine.ca MAILING ADDRESS Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4 TEL 250.384.9042 EMAIL editor@eatmagazine.ca PICK-UP THE MAGAZINE EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locations in BC including Victoria & Vancouver, Vancouver Island. Visit our website for locations

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| Editor’s Note |

I

N THE SPRING, I become a travel warrior. I throw a few things in a battered old backpack and hit as many destinations as possible over the weekend. That means farmers markets from Duncan to Courtenay, restaurants and cafés tucked away in the woods, and stops at several of the wineries in the region. Sometimes I take off for the day, sometimes more, but the goal is always to explore what’s freshest and first-of-season. If I’m lucky, I get to eat wild morels, halibut, or spot prawns and fat asparagus all on the same day. But no matter how much I manage to devour, I always bring home a huge cooler and stuff my fridge. I love to cook with the freshest ingredients and to support local farmers. In this issue we offer recipes that feature fresh green peas, which are only in season for what seems like a fleeting nano second. Contributor Jennifer Danter makes a fresh pea soup and a sandwich with halibut and pea aioli— simple, but very delicious. No sense in being fancy. Of course, a fruity BC rosé makes for a wonderful wine pairing. Contributor Sylvia Weinstock explores another short season green veg, wild fiddleheads. If you’ve never had them, fiddleheads taste a bit like an earthy asparagus. Every spring my family looks forward to a big fiddlehead feast—lots of good butter, a touch of vinegar, some garlic, and we’re in heaven. See you on the Island food trail? This inviting doorway leads to one of the best, new restaurants of this year, Pilgrimme on Galiano Island. See page 26

HAND-CRAFTED BREAD MADE WITH FRESHLY STONE-MILLED FLOUR AND ONLY CERTIFIED ORGANIC OR SUSTAINABLY GROWN LOCAL INGREDIENTS . NATURALLY LEAVENED AND BAKED TO CRUSTY PERFECTION IN WOOD-FIRED BRICK OVENS.

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EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015

S. Sheldan

Gary Hynes


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CONCIERGE

May

By Rebecca Baugniet

SPRING OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL (OKANAGAN) After watching their vines sleep for months, local BC winemakers and vineyards celebrate the arrival of spring and the waking of the vines with a glass – or two – of wine. Spread over the first two weeks of May, the Spring Okanagan Wine Festival busts loose with over 100 events throughout the valley. April 30- May 10. (thewinefestivals.com)

BODEGA

 

  

  

6TH ANNUAL DISH 'N DAZZLE (VANCOUVER) The BC Hospitality Foundation and Wines of Argentina will present a spectacular night of food, wine and cocktails, all in support of new beneficiaries. Featuring more than 80 premium Argentinean wines, bites prepared by 14 celebrated restaurants and chefs, and a silent auction filled with hospitality industry offerings. For more details please visit their website. May 7. #dishNdazzle (bchospitalityfoundation.com/portfolio/dish-n-dazzle/) FEAST! (TOFINO-UCLUELET) A collaboration between the area’s renowned chefs, fishermen and women, accommodation providers, activity providers and tour operators, Feast! Tofino - Ucluelet celebrates the abundance of local produce, seafood and sustainable "boat to table" practices commonly adopted by the area's restaurants. This year’s festival runs from May 8-24. (feastbc.com) INTERNATIONAL SUMMER NIGHT MARKET (RICHMOND) This Asian-style summer event is back starting May 8, 2015. The only one of its kind in North America, the Summer Night Market is as authentic as the original Night Markets throughout Asia. Barbeque beef skewers, Cantonese dumplings, deep-fried cheesecake, Japanese octopus rolls or hurricane potatoes are just some of the foods on offer. Friday and Saturday nights 6pm-11pm, Sunday nights 6pm-10pm. (summernightmarket.com) WINEMAKER'S TRAIL - VINEYARD WALK & PINIC (KELOWNA) Walk your way through Cedar Creek’s vineyard while doing a progressive food and wine tasting with winemaker Mr. Darryl Brooker. Then enjoy a giant vineyard picnic for lunch. Discover the very land Cedar Creek’s wines come from and enjoy their winemaker's insights on the little things that make these wines special. It will be an authentic experience and a fun afternoon in the vineyard (comfortable footwear recommended). cedarcreek.bc.ca/events FOOD BLOGGERS DISH (VICTORIA) Join local food enthusiasts for a panel discussion on food blogging: Amy Bronee (familyfeedbag.com), Elizabeth Nyland (guiltykitchen.com) and Heidi Fink (ChefHeidiFink.com). May 20 at 7pm, at the GVPL Central Branch. Free. Register at gvpl.ca. 4th ANNUAL VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL TEQUILA EXPO (VAN) The 4th Annual Vancouver International Tequila Expo is Western Canada’s largest festival dedicated to Mexico’s number one export spirit. The Main Event is a public Grand Tasting Hall (1500 tickets available) with an afternoon trade component to ensure maximum exposure to tequila products and a large customer base. During Vancouver Agave Week (May 25-30), there will be tequila seminars, master classes, and pairing dinners at venues around Vancouver. May 30. (vancouvertequilaexpo.com)

June TOFINO FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL (TOFINO) Now in their 13th year, this festival celebrates the marriage of food and wine, with the main event, Grazing in the Gardens, showcasing local culinary talents and British Columbia wines, in the beautiful Tofino Botanical Gardens. Events of the festival support several non-profit organizations and initiatives, including Tofino Botanical Gardens Foundation, Community Children’s Centre and Tofino’s Community Garden, Lighthouse Trail and Multi Use Path (MUP). June 5-7. (tofinofoodandwinefestival.com)

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EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook by Cinda Chavich

T

his new cookbook

from Victoria free-

lance food journalist

Cinda Chavich is more than some

absolutely

outstanding food (though it definitely is that!), it’s also a guide for shopping, cooking, and eating, without the huge amounts of waste that has become commonplace in North America. Chavich argues that our level of food waste is the equivalent of buying

three

bags

The Local General Store 1440 Haultain St Corner of Belmont and Haultain (Haultain Corners) (778) 265-6225 Hours: Monday - Saturday 9:30-6pm

An old-world 21st century general store carrying unique local artisan foods and 9TH ANNUAL CHEFS GALA DINNER organic produce, sustainably-sourced (COMOX) household goods, clothing and gifts Hosted in the historic Filberg gardens overlooking the ocean, this decadent dining www.thelocalgeneralstore.ca event begins with a raw oyster bar reception, sampling oysters of different regions of BC, shucked and served by farmers who grew them. Guests will enjoy sit down dinner of six courses, each one created by a different BC Chef and expertly paired with a BC wine or craft beer. June 19. (bcshellfishfestival.ca)

just a collection of recipes for

SEAFOOD AND SHELLFISH BC FESTIVAL (COMOX) The 9th annual BC Shellfish & Seafood Festival is the largest festival of its kind in British Columbia. Located in the Comox Valley, you can enjoy 10 days filled with culinary events, shellfish and seafood producer tours, celebrity chef demonstrations, winery dinners that celebrate the bounty of the sea, coupled with aquaculture industry works hops, networking events and tradeshow. The festival takes place during BC Seafood Month, the perfect time to showcase seafood excellence. June 12-21. (discovercomoxvalley.com/shellfish-festivalinfo)

of

groceries and then leaving one behind in the parking lot. This level of waste is not only expensive, but environmentally problematic. The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook aims to reign in on this alarming trend with close to 150 delicious and waste free recipes. The book opens with a broad overview of the food waste problem, including some of the most problematic and waste prone areas of the food production sector (like seafood), but then goes on to explore some entrepreneurial solutions pouring in from around the world as means of showing that it is possible to buy and prepare food without doing what amounts to throwing a tonne of it out. Then come the recipes. Chavich has covered all the bases with some delicious, simple, inexpensive, and of course, waste free dishes. There are soups, desserts, sauces, meats, nothing is left out. No part of your eating habits really has to change to go wastefree today. The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook is available now at Bolen Books.

FERNWOOD BITES (VICTORIA) Fernwood’s favourite food and libation tasting event is back for its sixth year. “Local Fare in an Urban Square” is a food and drink tasting event, raising funds for the Fernwood NRG. Featuring local eateries and chefs, beer and wine, live music and a silent auction. June 21, 5.30pm -8pm in Fernwood Square. $50 per person. Due to access to alcohol, this is a 19 years + only event. Sponsored by Cook Culture and EAT Magazine (fernwoodnrg.ca) SALT SPRING VINEYARDS ANNUAL SUMMER SOLSTICE EVENT (SALT SPRING) Looking for somewhere to celebrate this year’s summer solstice? Salt Spring Vineyards will have live music to dance to, local foods to savour, and all their new wines open for you to taste. Bring a picnic and the kids and celebrate the start of summer. For more information call 250-653-9463, or email info@saltspringvineyards.com. (saltspringvineyards.com)

July TASTE: VICTORIA’S FESTIVAL OF FOOD AND WINE (VICTORIA) Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine means four days of indulgence in Victoria with incredible island tastes from the best chefs who walk-the-talk when it come to local, seasonal and sustainable, plus winemakers from across British Columbia with hundreds of wines to taste. Not just a wine festival, Taste is an interactive experience of tastings, seminars and events; a festival with a culinary conscience where you can rub shoulders with chefs, vintners, cheesemakers, and all the great people that make Vancouver Island such a delicious culinary destination. July 16-19, 2015. (TasteVictoria.com)

ONGOING 111-1644 Hillside Ave., Victoria www.bolen.bc.ca (250) 595-4232

MOSS STREET MARKET (VICTORIA) 2015 is Moss Street Market’s 24th season of providing local and organic farm-fresh produce, local foods, handmade crafts, artisan clothing, inspiring services and community education to folks from the entire Victoria area and region. May through October, every Saturday, 10am to 2pm, rain or shine. (mossstreetmarket.com) FARMERS MARKETS AT THE VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET (VICTORIA) Local farmers and food producers come every Wednesday for the weekly Farmers' Market from 11AM-3PM. You can also catch them every Saturday and Sunday. You can now see which vendors will be selling on the market’s online calendar. (victoriapublicmarket.com/market-calendar/)

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stonewall kitchen

distributed by

Distributed by Dovre Import & Export Ltd. | p: 13931 Bridgeport Road

800.370.3850

| e: sales@dovreimport.com | www.dovreimport.com

| Richmond, BC V6V 1J6 | m a de in m a in e | stonewallkitchen.com

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g GOOD FOR YOU

By Pam Durkin

Fare Investments

Choose quality over quantity with these four pantry staples. THE TERMS “INEXPENSIVE” OR “CHEAP” DO NOT NECCESSARILY TRANSLATE into great value when it comes to buying the essentials we need to help us prepare healthy meals. Indeed, opting for the cheapest versions of key must-haves often means compromising on both flavour and nutritional quality. That’s why I deem these four pantry staples “splurge-worthy investments” for the health-conscious cook. Quality Extra-Virgin-Olive-Oil (EVOO) It may shock you to know the olive oil in your pantry may not be real olive oil. Several recent eye-opening studies found that more than half the olive oils sold in North America were not authentic. Rather than being pure EVOOs, more than half of those tested were “blends” adulterated with cheaper, more refined olive oils and/or low quality vegetable oils spiked with colorants. Clearly, this adulteration has a profoundly negative effect on EVOO’s renowned health benefits and flavour. The simple truth is, producing good-quality EVOO is an expensive undertaking. If you want a flavourful EVOO full of heart-healthy polyphenols, you’ll have to pay a fair bit more for it than you would for a bottle of supermarket olive oil. A good oil rife with polyphenols will be pungent and peppery. This robust taste alone justifies the extra dollars you’ll pay for it. (Visit Olive the Senses or a good deli for quality oils.)

LOCAATION The Hudson Building 1701 Douglas Street, Victoria LOCATION Victoria OPERATION HOURS OF OPERA ATION TIO Tues–Sat TION Tues–Sat 10–5:30 Sun 11–5 ONLY NLLYY Mon 10–5:30* *SELECT VENDORS ONL

Local Raw Honey Honey has been touted as a cure-all for millennia—for good reason. It contains a cocktail of healthy ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and beneficial enzymes. Not surprisingly, modern science has confirmed honey’s long reputed anti-bacterial, anti-viral and anti-inflammatory properties. Unfortunately, many of these health benefits are lost when honey is heated, pasteurized and ultrafiltered—all processes used in the production of most supermarket honeys. Furthermore, most supermarket honeys are actually mixtures of different kinds of honey, and recent testing by the FDA revealed some of these mixes contained cheap foreign honeys tainted with antibiotics, heavy metals and corn syrup. What’s a honey lover to do? The answer is simple—buy raw, local honey and you’ll ensure you’re reaping honey’s amazing health benefits and delighting your palate with honey garnered from the wildflowers of Vancouver Island. It may cost a few dollars more than supermarket honey—but it’s worth every extra cent. (For information on where to buy local honey, visit islandfarmfresh.com.) Pastured, Cage-Free Eggs I use eggs frequently, in myriad ways, so their taste and nutritional content are important to me. That’s why I always buy “pastured, cage-free” eggs. (The terms “organic” and “free-range” do not guarantee the hens were exclusively pasture-raised.) The eggs have a beautiful flavour you simply don’t get from conventional eggs. In addition, they also best their conventional cousins when it comes to providing key nutrients. Peer-reviewed nutritional analysis has proved they contain much higher levels of Vitamins A, D, E, carotenoids and omega-3 fatty acids. What’s more, this difference in nutritional content is significant—pastured eggs can have as much as seven times more disease-fighting carotenoids and 200 percent more Vitamin E than eggs from caged hens. Admittedly, all this extra goodness doesn’t come cheap— pastured eggs will cost you approximately $2 more per dozen than conventional eggs— but their superior nutrition and taste render the extra toonie money well spent. Visit islandfarmfresh.com for where to buy pastured, cage-free eggs. Organic Blonde Miso It may not be the cheapest item in the grocery store, but miso is certainly one of the most versatile. It’s not only de rigueur in Asian cooking, it’s also superb in salad dressings, pâtés, soups, stews and stirred into steamed vegetables instead of butter*. Furthermore, it enriches food with its unique umami flavour, not to mention its rich probiotic, omega-3 fatty acid and zinc content. Another plus—studies indicate misocontaining diets can help reduce the risk for cardiovascular disease. As for the price, remember “a little goes a long way.” A tub of the stuff lasts forever, and since you’ll be using it to replace certain foods like bouillon cubes and butter—it provides a lot of bang for your buck. *Always add miso to soups, stews and stocks just before serving to preserve its probiotics. E

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g FOOD MATTERS

By Julie Pegg

At a Snail’s Pace

Eating these garden-variety critters in France is a revelation.

WINE TOURISTS FLOCK TO THE TINY BURGUNDIAN REGION OF NUITS-SAINTGEORGE in France for its noble Pinot Noir. But there’s a wide range of wonderful foods too. In spring, the air is fresh, earthy, sweet. On market mornings, stalls spill over with white and green asparagus, petits pois in their shells, pencil-thin green beans and fat bunches of herbs, especially parsley and thyme. A thin wood table wows under the weight of the amazing array of creamy cheeses (I’m going to need a spoon to eat that runny orange rind Epoisses I’ve just bought). Stacks of crusty loaves dwindle quickly. The treasured poulet de Bresse draws a lengthy queue. So does the charcuterie case boasting all sorts of dried sausages, pâtés and slabs of local jambon persillé—rosyhued jellied ham flecked with parsley. There’s a fishmonger plucking a whole fish off its icy bed for a customer. What really catches my eye are those large escargots stuffed with garlic, shallot and parsley butter, ready to pop into the oven—which I don’t happen to have. But I spot somewhere that does. Amidst the prestigious wine shops off the square is a humble-looking hole-in-the wall. I notice escargot de Bourgogne written roughly on a chalkboard outside. I’m in. The men hanging out at the tiny tasting bar are clearly locals. (Vineyard workers, I soon find out.) Cigarettes dangling from their mouths, they sip between puffs and eating snails. The wines are down to earth. Some are local. Others hail from the Jura (about 90 minutes of French-style driving from Nuits). Right now the owner is waxing poetic on an organic Marsannay rosé. I order a half-dozen escargot. Monsieur sloshes the rosé into my glass and disappears wordlessly, presumably into a kitchen. He reappears, pours himself a glass. The guys

have left. We talk snails. He offers piping hot mollusks to customers but also sells them packed and frozen in a Chablis broth. These are not your garden-variety critters. Unable to survive in captivity like their small cousins (helix aspersa or “petit-gris”), helix pomatia (“gros-gris”) are wild, not farmed. Many so-called “escargots Bourgogne” come from “away.” Not these guys/gals (snails are hermaphrodites). These are French, Monsieur assures me. Off he trots again, returning à la minute with a small tray of piping hot snails à la Bourgignonne, using a parsley, garlic and butter method of preparation. He saws off a hunk of baguette. The snails are tender, buttery, earthy, and I order another six more, along with a simple red Burgundy. My next snail experience is a bit more upmarket. Fabrice Vigot and Christine Martin, proprietors of La Domaine VIGOT Fabrice, a small winery in Vosne-Romanée, treat me to lunch at a superb local restaurant, L’Atelier, after sampling the wines. Fabrice brings the remaining Echezeaux and Gevrey-Chambertin. My entrée is six meaty snails, hidden beneath a lid of puff pastry, in a mushroom and garlic cream sauce. The dish is sublime; with the wines it’s pure revelation. North Americans regard the snail as a rubbery nugget, and just a good excuse to eat a whack of melted garlic butter. However, carefully harvested snails—both big and bitesize, foraged or farmed—are tender and delicious. Thinking “now there’s a good way to purge the garden of those nuisances?” Reading Molly Watson’s “Snail Trail” (Best Food Writing 2013) will guarantee a rethink. Turning snails into an edible delicacy is an icky process requiring hours of soaking, washing and blanching to remove the slime. Enter the snail farm. Snail farms are on a roll in the U.K. and Europe, but thus far, not here. You can, however, check out a gourmet shop or order tinned French brands online, such as Henri Maire or Escal from Alsace. (Alsace folks are also snail aficionados.) Not up to stuffing snails into shells? Simply sauté them in garlic butter and serve on toast, or put them into mushroom caps or mini pastry shells. The Alsace folk make a light soup of snails by simmering them in beef broth and serving them over blanched baby vegetables and mushrooms or, for a richer dish, cooked with Riesling and heavy cream. Go on. Eat at a snail’s pace. After all, May 24 is National Escargot Day. E

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g GET FRESH

By Sylvia Weinstock

Fiddleheads Although the season is fleeting these elusive greens are worth seeking out

FRESH FIDDLEHEADS ARE ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXQUISITE VEGETABLE GREENS. The season for these late spring delights is short-lived. Foragers have a mere two-week time frame in which to harvest fiddleheads before they grow into full ferns. Their brief annual appearance is a cause for celebration and year-round anticipation for those who crave them. These wild delicacies are the young, unfurled fronds of ostrich ferns that grow beside riverbanks and marshes, in open forests and lowlands. Their name reflects their resemblance to the ornamental scroll of a fiddle. Ostrich ferns grow in abundance from the Maritimes to the Great Lakes, as well as in British Columbia. In the wild, the green fronds are covered in fuzzy brown chaff. Foragers cut twoinch long fiddleheads about an inch above the ground while each frond is still tightly curled into a spiral. Sustainable harvesting is crucial to the propagation of this wild food. Only three of the seven fiddleheads produced by each fern should be harvested. It’s not surprising these greens are so expensive (as much as $18 per pound). They are very fiddly to harvest! Fiddleheads should never be eaten raw or undercooked because they may contain toxins or microbes that cause food-borne illness. Proper preparation destroys any toxins in the greens. Brush off the chaff, thoroughly wash the greens several times in cold water, and trim their stems. Boil them in lightly salted boiling water for fifteen minutes. Lift them out with a slotted spoon (so any sediment remains in the pot) and dress them with sautéed garlic, olive oil and a splash of lemon juice or in vinaigrette. Alternatively, you can steam them for twenty minutes. If you intend to sauté or cook them further, first prepare them by blanching them in boiling water for eight minutes and plunging them into cold water. Ostrich fern fiddleheads have an earthy flavour reminiscent of the tastes of asparagus, okra, green beans, baby spinach and artichokes, with a nutty finish. Simple preparations allow their essence to shine through. Sauté blanched fiddleheads in butter with garlic slivers and morels for a totally wild spring indulgence. Marinate or pickle them. Make them into creamy soups, or use them in stir-fries, pasta primavera, or in any recipe that calls for asparagus. Their flavour contrasts beautifully with eggs, leeks, shallots, bacon, pancetta, white fish or trout. Creamy hollandaise sauce, mascarpone cheese and coconut milk are perfect companions for their strong woodsy taste. The Indonesian fern dish gulai paku can be prepared with fiddleheads in a lemongrass-laced spicy chile coconut sauce. Yum pak grood, a Thai coconut milk curry made with fiddleheads, prawns, chilies, lime juice and shallots, is yum. If your local market doesn’t carry fresh fiddleheads, order them from Richmond’s WestCoastWildFoods.com. Frozen fiddleheads are available year-round. E

Fiddlehead Carbonara Richard Schultz 1966 Collection

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EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015

4 slices of bacon, cut in ½-inch slices 1 cup washed, trimmed fiddleheads, blanched 8 minutes 2 cloves garlic, chopped Freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 egg yolks 2 Tbsp heavy cream ¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano ½ pound pasta, cooked; reserve cooking water A handful of Italian parsley, chopped

After cooking the bacon, drain all but a tablespoon of bacon fat from the pan. Add fiddleheads, garlic and pepper. Toss to coat and sauté until fiddleheads are tender. In a large serving bowl, mix egg yolks, cream and cheese. Add cooked pasta to the pan and toss. Pour the hot pasta into the bowl with the egg mixture. Toss to coat with a splash of pasta water and garnish with parsley. Serves two.


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g EPICURE AT LARGE

By Jeremy Ferguson

Ode to a Sausage

Chorizo, merguez, kielbasa, blood pudding, wiener—every cuisine has its unique take on the link.

AHHH, THE SAUSAGE, SO SIMPLE, SO VERSATILE, SO TIMELESS, IT’S DIFFICULT to believe it wasn’t with us in the cave. But the sausage came later—the Greeks and Romans never missed a beat—as a way of preserving meats, usually the nasty bits. The earliest sausages of record were intestines stuffed into an animal stomach. All it involves nowadays is ground meat (or fowl, fish or vegetables) and a casing much like a condom (when was the last time you heard a sausage joke we could print here?) Sausage is versatile. It can be cooked, smoked, dried or cured. Every country trumpets its sausage as vigorously as it waves its flag: Toulouse from France, chorizo from Spain, merguez from Morocco, kielbasa from Poland, Chinese sausage from the Middle Kingdom, boerewors from South Africa. Pungent, spicy sausages from northern Thailand are one of the secret delights of that country’s racy cuisine. Blutwurst is Germany’s blood sausage, cousin to the French boudin and the black puddings of Ireland and Scotland. Haggis, the Scottish national dish of sheep heart, liver and lungs in an animal stomach, is a sausage. American composer David Grimes likened it to “boiled, inside-out roadkill.” The English hold a special place in sausagedom: The banger derives its name from the pops and bangs that occur as casings shrink in cooking. The Brits are responsible, too, for battering and deep-frying sausages, salving the slavering national addiction to grease and salt. The French andouillette de Troyes, however, takes the cake. A specialty of th Champagne Ardenne region, it consists of strips of swine intestine wrapped in a pig’s colon. Not many of us get past its stench of decaying offal: Who blew the outhouse out of the ground, anyway? The sausage most popular in Canada and the U.S. is, of course, the hot dog wiener. Americans are crazy for it: South of the border, July is National Hot Dog Month. In summer, they consume seven billion dogs. Wiener lore could eat this magazine. The all-time champ at the annual Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest on Coney Island gobbled down 69 dogs in 10 minutes. The world’s longest dog—203.8 metres in length—was produced by the Japanese in 2011. And on it goes. Now we’re into a sausage renaissance. In a time of soaring food prices—previously frozen halibut was $32 per pound at this writing—the sausage seems like everybody’s friend. There is the refreshing absence of gristle and bone (chink, there goes your upper left molar), and styles and flavours represent the global village kitchen. Consider the New Bohemia Wurst+Bierhaus restaurant in Minneapolis. Its tour-ofthe-zoo sausages include rattlesnake, yak, python, kangaroo, camel, black bear, muskox and llama. Better still, make your own: my wife purchased a sausage stuffer that loads ground meat into casings without making a huge mess. She found ground lamb and pork at Glenwood Meats in Langford (also available at specialty butchers such as Slater’s and The Village Butcher). She and her pal spent a Saturday afternoon turning out 20 pounds of sausages: merguez, lamb sausage with fiery harissa, garlic, cumin and coriander; and Sicilian, pork sausage with garlic, nutmeg, red wine and lemon zest. They invited us husbands to set the table, pour martinis, toss and dress salads, uncap wine and sit down to a hearty and delicious dinner. Louis XIV never ate so well in his life. E

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EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

A MANSION REBORN Gatsby Mansion and Pendray Restaurant The Gatsby’s new ownership shows a love for the past and a vision of the future. —By Joseph Blake

atsby Mansion's nine-room, boutique B&B and the renamed Pendray Restaurant on the ground floor of the heritage hotel has a long history as one of Victoria' iconic businesses. The venerable institution has new ownership and a visionary, young team renewing the century-old Victorian landmark across Belleville Street from the Clipper and Blackball ferry terminals. It's a great location, and visiting with Executive Chef Travis Rawluk recently in the Pendray's 12-seat Sun Room, I had a view of the Gatsby's famous grounds and the Inner Harbour all the way to the controversial Johnson Street Bridge project. William Pendray struck it rich during the Yukon Gold Rush, and bought the large Gatsby property. His topiary and rose gardens were well-known in their day. I'd toured the grounds before sitting down with Chef Rawluk, appreciating the well-manicured lawns and boxwood hedges, flowering daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and pansies. As I enjoyed the view from the airy Sun Room and a plate of chef's scallops, onions and spinach in a sweet citrus and ginger sauce with bacon, the trim-bearded Rawluk described his food philosophy. "I've lived in Victoria since 1998, and I love the scents and colours of the city. I want my food to reflect that clean, fresh beauty. I joined the Pendray's team in February, and I'm starting to contact local growers and producers for a seasonally-inspired menu with the important influence of aboriginal practices." "I have an adopted cousin who introduced me to aboriginal culture," Rawluk continued. "I have great respect for their culture and want my food to reflect that...the flavours of Vancouver Island. I'm looking forward to this summer's fresh wild berries and also freezing and preserving them for later in the year" Rawluk, a Canadian Culinary Federation award-winning chef, has lived in Edmonton, a now-abandoned mining town in Haida Gwaii, Tsawwassen, and Winnipeg ("Lived in almost every neighborhood in Winnipeg!" chef exclaims.), before moving to Victoria to work in kitchens at Suze, Wharfside, Tapa Bar, Nautical Nellies, Union Club, Monkey Tree Pub and Swans. "Our supportive, passionate ownership and a good, young team is bringing new life to the Gatsby property, especially the renamed Pendray Restaurant," added general manager Erin Cassels. "Along with Chef Rawluk and head server Chance Pryds, we've embraced a renewed Victorian style including bringing the neglected garden and

G

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left: Almond crusted halibut, cilantro parsley pesto, celery root and wild mushroom cake, brown butter asparagus. above: left to right - Chance Pryds, front of house supervisor, Chef Travis Rawluk, Erin Cassels, general manager

grounds back. It's an important part of Victoria's history and culture. Travis' inspired West Coast cuisine works well with the upgraded Victorian decor in the historic dining rooms." Upstairs in the guest rooms and third floor reading room, new carpeting, new wallpaper, new bedding, and upgraded bathrooms are part of the make-over, while downstairs in the restaurant, the old lobby with its gas-fired fireplace and bar serves as an entrance to Pendray. Historic black and white photos of the property line the walls of the main dining room and smaller Belleville and Topiary rooms used for Pendray's afternoon tea service featuring a three-tiered, silver serving plate's offerings and TWG brand tea. The Pendray's old family home, later becoming the Captain's Palace and then Gatsby's, has been reborn with a love for the past and a vision of the future. The tourists will love it, but local diners should celebrate the changes too. There's new life on the Inner Harbour, and Gatsby Mansion and Pendray Restaurant are a big part of the transformation.

Gatsby Mansion & Pendray Restaurant 309 Belleville Street, Victoria,B.C., www.huntingdonmanor.com/dining/ For reservations please phone 1.800.663.7557 or email us at info@gatsbymansion.ca. Lunch Wed - Sun / 12pm - 4pm Afternoon Tea Wed - Sun / 12pm - 4pm Dinner Wed - Sun / 5pm - 9pm


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FIND F IND U US S

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REPORTER

RESTAURANTS | CAFES | SHOPPING

Rebecca Wellman

left: Lacto pickled radishes, smoked yogurt right: Tea smoked duck breast, beets, sprouted rye toast, milk, rosehip marmalade

Olo 509 Fisgard St. | 250-590-8795 | olorestaurant.com After five successful years and numerous accolades, owners Brad Holmes and Sahara Tamarin of Ulla have bravely switched gears rebranding their restaurant to Olo, a farm-to-table restaurant. Both wanted to shed the perceived image of Ulla as a special-occasion-only place, replacing it with a more casual room, an expanded menu and late-night hours that appeal for any occasion. The once white and proper room has been stripped back to its heritage origins revealing postand-beam and brick, with rustic wood slatting added to the walls. It has a much more expansive, relaxed feel—like kicking off your heels and slipping into something more comfortable. Shelving that used to hold cookbooks now showcases a colourful “fermentorium” of pickles, preserves and vinegars. A bank of wheatgrass greets you upon entering. Olo also adds a new co-owner, chef Kris Barnholden, to the fold. A longtime friend and colleague of chef Brad Holmes, Barnholden shares core values and cooking styles: local, seasonal, wild and sustainable ingredients, modern techniques and an emphasis on housemade— from charcuterie and preserves to pasta and breads. All done with the creative flair we’ve grown accustomed to. Rest assured fans of Holmes’s cooking won’t be disappointed. There’s just more to choose from. The new menu is divided into sections: snacks, vegetables, grains, seafood, meat and desserts. I particularly loved the snack of chicken liver mousse on house brioche topped with delicately sweet huckleberry compote offsetting the richness. Vegetable plates are thoughtfully composed:

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cacao husk-roasted heirloom carrots came dressed in honey vinegar over herb-flecked ricotta and a bright puree of carrot topped with thin shards of fried cabbage acting as a chip for dipping. A dish of wild foraged mushrooms (black trumpet and hen of the woods) were tangled together with lightly charred cabbage over pumpkin puree with beluga lentils, a dish successfully bridging winter to spring. From the seafood section came crispy tendrils of octopus, with chickpea panisse and crispy chicken skin over watercress puree with a sorrel-like hit provided by a leaf of sustainably wild foraged shooting star. And from the meat section came their signature dish of cured and tea-smoked duck breast, an aromatic and tender offering thinly sliced and served over watercress puree with sprouted rye croutons, roasted beets, a bright, sweet zing of “rosehipster” marmalade and textured flourish of milk skin. Those craving the familiar will find housemade pasta with seasonal ingredients such as nettles or porcini mushrooms, and the requisite burger, served medium, on a milk bun with the necessary accompaniments, including fries and house-cured pickles. Libations go the way of B.C. wines, local spirits and craft brews. And the cocktail list got a shot in the arm by noted Shawn Soole. Enjoy multi-ingredient creations, including weekly changing barrel-aged concoctions, along with zero-proof shrubs made with citrus and some of the many vinegars from the kitchen’s arsenal. The restaurant’s name, derived from obscure Chinook Jargon, means “hungry,” and Olo aims to be the place that satisfies yours. E BY SHELORA SHELDAN


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Standard Pizza 1515 Cook St., | standardpizza.ca | 250-590-2363

Rebecca Wellman

Matt Veillette’s Standard Pizza has forged the first bridge between pizza that is that is at its best eaten straight away from the oven and does not stand waiting well and pizza that is built for delivery and takeout that will be fine tomorrow in the fridge. Until early March, Victoria had no Neapolitan pizzeria whose pizza really did well with delayed consumption, 45 minutes to home or overnight. That exquisite, thin dough, which I do adore Sure there are other tasty pizzas in town that you can purchase for home. But they aren’t Neapolitan or New York style with specialty meat, cheese and vegetables. They’re OK, good, sometimes great, but they’re a different family of flavours. There has been a missing piece of the pizza puzzle. Enter Standard Pizza. “It is more of a New York style. Just a really good pizza,” explains Veillette. “Down the road, we plan to explore delivery as well.” He spent five years with Prima Strada above: Bacon Pizza – cream cheese, garlic, and is now branching out, doing black pepper, parsley, egg yolk his own thing in his tasty take-home style. Opening day, my colleague Allegra, my son Felix and I descend upon Standard Pizza 10 minutes early, hungry and curious to explore the past location of Leaven Bakery. The space is simple, open, with a thick wooden counter and a few black chairs and stools. The wood fire flames lick the dough deep in the belly of the oven. We order four small pizzas: Meatball, Sausage, Cheese and White. I am already planning my next visit to sample the Bacon with cream, cheese, parsley and egg yolk and the Friday/Saturday Clam pizza special with garlic, lemon and chili. We order them to go, launching into the first piece on the way to Allegra’s soccer game. They are reasonably priced and a small suits one easily. I start with the Sausage pizza. The housemade sausage is spiced with fennel. Sweet, spicy goat horn peppers on this pizza provide an exciting foil to the mellow classic Italian meat. Fresh from the oven, it is rich, meaty, sweet and bright. Allegra hoovers a piece of Meatball: “This is amazing.” Felix chews on his Cheese pizza in silence in the back. Quiet five-year-old boy = enjoying his meal or sleeping. Once home, I top the White pizza with the small, accompanying box of arugula. The subtlety of the ricotta cheese mixes with the deep sweet warmth of roasted onion and the peppery arugula. It is rich but not heavy—and delectable. The Meatball pizza is the “everyone is happy” pizza (well, meat eaters, anyway). The meatballs are simple, tender and spiced with tomato, parmesan and basil. Ideal for an adult/kid compromise or a rainy day with a book. I did not get to sample the Cheese pizza because my son ate it all. Veillette sources his meat from Slater’s and prepared meats (pepperoni and salami) from Four Quarters Meats. He also uses organic flour and tomatoes and plans to source local when possible. An hour later, I taste the Sausage pizza. It has cooled but hallelujah! The base is still dense, not soggy. “A bit more dough, to make sure it holds,” Veillette explains. And the next day, the White pizza was still in good form. Standard Pizza is a fine addition to the evolving world of pizza in town. Thanks for bridging the gap, Matt Veillette. See you soon. E

BY GILLIE EASDON

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Bringing Vancouver Island farms right to your table. - E N J OY O U R DA I LY F E AT U R E S -

- R E S E RV E N O W-

Rebecca Wellman

left: Duck Confit and Waffle – confited leg and thigh, sunny side egg, thick cut Red Barn bacon, house syrup. right: the interior at The Ruby

The Ruby 250-382-9258

740 Burdett Ave, Inside the Chateau Victoria

VISTA18.COM

3110 Douglas St. | 250-893-3503 | therubyvictoria.com Entering through the lobby of the renovated retro Hotel Zed, the 1960s multicolour scheme evokes a bowl of Froot Loops. At the end of the lobby, classic rock is playing on the turntable and denim-aproned waitstaff bop along while refilling cups of coffee. You’ll see a wall-tiled butcher diagram of a hen announcing The Ruby. Welcome, you’ve just stepped into Victoria’s newest breakfast arena. Owned by Chris Jones and Josh Goyert who met while working at the Inn at Laurel Point, Jones as F& B manager and Goyert as a waiter, the two joined forces and hatched the idea over talks with the hotel’s owner Mandy Farmer. In contrast to the Zed’s groovy makeover, the Ruby doesn’t compete, it complements, with weathered wood and white subway tiles, comfy banquette seating and a brand-new kitchen “built for speed,” headed up by former Jam Café “hash slinger” Richard Caron. The shiny topped bar has an imbedded layer of chicken wire but this cozy, 40-seat coop won’t ruffle any feathers with its eggs any style, build-your-own omelettes, hungry-man tacos, hearty diner-style plates of bennies and hash and a sweet or savoury waffle list. The duck confit and waffles rule the roost, heaped high and garnished with Red Barn bacon and crowned with a sunny-side-up egg. Drizzled with maple syrup, you can’t believe you ate the whole thing! Multiple sides run from bacon or sausage, yam and potato hash browns to grilled tomatoes or sautéed mushrooms. The Ruby keeps shining into the lunch hour where rotisserie chicken is a specialty. Brined and dryrubbed, tender crispy-skinned birds can be ordered halved or quartered with a creative set of sides to choose from. For example, string beans and crispy shallots, ratatouille, fries and aioli, classic roasted potatoes or a tangy Parmesan celery slaw. And don’t pass on the chicken gravy—it’s so good you could drink it. Sandwiches fit the bill too, with chicken and chimichurri on a toasted Portuguese bun, or the mega meatball on brioche with cheese and a side of greens. Or forgo the bread altogether for the chicken poutine, a luscious melding of fries, cheese curds and gravy, or the chicken tacos with a roasted red pepper aioli and pico de gallo nestled in Adriana’s corn tortillas. For “hippies and gym rats,” salads, vegetarian sandwiches, quinoa porridge and oatmeal brûlée are also available, along with a kid’s menu. For those requiring a little hair-of-the-dog, mason jars are filled with Caesars, mimosas, Boiler Makers and other creations such as the Shaft—a hit of Discovery roast espresso with vodka, Kahlúa and cream. Phillips beer is on draft, wines are B.C. and those coffee refills are free. It’s good and strong and pairs nicely with the lone house dessert, Yonni’s doughnut holes with a side of either Bailey’s hot chocolate or Limoncello curd for dipping. Weekend lineups are inevitable, but the wait will fly by when you’re ushered into the downstairs ping pong lounge. The Ruby is no turkey. It's everything it's cracked up to be. BY SHELORA SHELDAN

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Heron Rock Bistro 9AM-10PM Monday to Friday 8:30AM-10PM Saturday & Sunday

Happy Hour 7 Nights 8pm to Close 250-383-1545 CORNER OF CROFT & SIMCOE IN JAMES BAY WWW.HERONROCKBISTRO.CA

Rebecca Wellman

The Marina sushi Chef David Nakayama and a variety of his sushi

Marina Restaurant Sushi Bar 1327 Beach Dr., Victoria | 250-598-8555

HAPPY HOUR 7 Days 2:3--5:30pm

Open 7 Days 11am -11pm 10pm on Sunday to Wednesday Weekend 9am for Brunch

Lunch, Dinner, Local Beer & Wine 250-590-4556 4136 WILKINSON RD WWW.CROOKEDGOOSEBISTRO.CA

David Nakayama, executive chef at the Sushi Bar at Marina Restaurant in Oak Bay looks a lot like he looked when we first met in 1981 at Victoria’s first sushi bar in Yokohama Restaurant. Nakayama’s hair has some silver now and he moves a little gingerly as we sit down at one of the tables of his airy, 32-seat eatery, but his passion for traditional Japanese food is as strong as when he first introduced sushi to Victoria diners 34 years ago. The late Bob Wright lured Nakayama away from Yokohama Restaurant in 1996 with an offer to run his own one-man operation at the Marina, where he could “just make sushi.” Promises of fishing trips to Wright’s resorts up the coast to Haida Gwaii set the hook. For a chef who started his career as an 18-year-old in a tiny Tokyo sandwich shop before spending the next five years learning to make sushi at a huge Tokyo transportation company restaurant, it was a dream come true. “My master’s advice then was ‘steal my skills,’ so I watch over his shoulder and learn,” Nakayama explains. “I stayed after work and practice cleaning fish, cutting fish ... And then one of the workers told me of his cousin in Victoria who needed a sushi chef at his restaurant. That is how I came to Yokohama.” A self-described “traditional sushi chef,” Nakayama loves fish and is excited about his sushi bar’s new menu using only Ocean Wise-certified fish. The Vancouver Aquarium conservation program insures sustainable seafood and high quality, but it will bring changes to Nakayama’s sushi bar. “Our new menu won’t use flying fish or smelt roe, no more yellowtail tuna or mackerel; but we’ll use our great, local fish—salmon, of course—and local spot prawns. I believe using the best rice and seaweed is very important. I use a short-grain, Japanese white rice grown in California and seaweed from Taiwan that is processed in Japan. “Japanese food culture is changing. In places like New York and Los Angeles, they’re making very creative sushi, but I don’t like so much spicy sauce, so much mayo and deep-fried sushi,” Nakayama continues with a grimace. “I respect Japanese culture. I’m already a Canadian, but the essence of sushi is fish, not sauce. That is my borderline. If I make this style that overwhelms the sushi with sauce, I give up being a Japanese chef.” Far from giving up, chef Nakayama is expanding his hours this month. He will be serving lunch for the first time at his seaside sushi bar from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday-Saturday. He has hired a couple of chef to serve diners from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. nightly, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. “I’m excited to train new chefs. I can teach. I want to teach. Traditional sushi is changing, and you can eat traditional sushi every day—tuna roll, cucumber roll, you can eat every day. It’s healthy food,” Nakayama adds with a chuckle. “You can’t do that with hamburgers.” BY JOSEPH BLAKE

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Rebecca Wellman

Dan Gunn, CEO of VIATeC, the industry association for Victoria’s technology sector

Ground Control Café at Fort Tectoria 777 Fort Street, Victoria | 250.483.3214 | forttectoria.ca

Introducing

Moss St. Market’s TASTING ROOM featuring local beer, wine, and spirit vendors in the Garry Oak Room starting May 16

Moss St. Market

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EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015

The reign of fabulous Fort Street continues with the opening of Ground Control Café in VIATeC’s Fort Tectoria headquarters. With the support of Victoria’s fastest growing industry, a rocket ship-themed space, and an emphasis on supporting local craft, it’s almost too easy to conclude Ground Control is poised for liftoff. Co-owners Nik Øvstaas and Jill Kendrick opened the café early January and have—without trying— taken the classic startup approach to business. “For the first week and a half, we were just giving things away for free because we didn’t have our business license yet. We wanted to start developing a customer base,” says Øvstaas. “In the end, pulling it together while we moved forward was better because then the community has some input into what they would like to see in here.” So far, Tectoria tenants and locals have been fawning over the 2% Jazz coffee, and soon Fort Street neighbour Crust Bakery will supply the baked goods—exclusive to Ground Control. “We’re not looking to compete with everyone else. Fort Tectoria wants to support local business whenever possible. We have a huge space at our disposable,” says Kendrick. Ground Control has created the ideal third space—2,000 square feet complete with all the tech basics like fibre optic wifi and almond mylk lattes. Dan Gunn, the CEO of VIATeC has become an almond mylk convert and now has a drink in his name, the Shot Gunn (that’s two shots of espresso, salted caramel, and steamed almond mylk). Gunn met Øvstaas working at local music festivals. Together, they made Ground Control a reality. “Local techies love supporting local innovators and entrepreneurs, and this includes restaurateurs, café owners, and brew masters. Not only are tech workers and leaders frequent customers, but they are also often investors,” says Gunn. Securing a liquor license is the next goal for Øvstaas and Kendrick. “VIATeC and Phillips Brewing have always had a close relationship. They make a special beer just for us called Ctrl, Malt, Del. We’ll be the first people to have it on tap,” says Øvstaas. The future also includes the addition of a patio and an expanded menu. The cultural connection between food and the technology sector is not a new revelation, but Fort Tectoria sees it as more than a trend. “VIATeC focuses a lot of effort on attracting new skilled talent to Victoria, and our local food, beer, coffee, food truck, and live music scene are vital selling points,” says Gunn, who just returned from recruiting at SXSW. “Ninety per cent of our pitch is related to lifestyle, which includes our foodie culture.” Ground Control has become somewhat of a reception desk for new visitors to Fort Tectoria. In many ways, it gives passersby the social permission to invite themselves in. And the name? “Dan came up with Ground Control, but we breezed right past it. Later that night, I clued in. I called him and said, ‘I just got Ground Control!’” says Øvstaas. “Plus, we love David Bowie!” Major Tom approves. BY KAITLYN ROSENBURG


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g EATING WELL FOR LESS

By Elizabeth Monk

Pub, Market, Bakery. Pub grub redux, the pleasures of cheese and a sweet protein fix.

Elizabeth Nyland

Elizabeth Nyland

left: Ploughman's Board right: Roasted artichoke and portobello mushroom lasagna

The Six Mile Pub 494 Old Island Highway, 250-478-3121 If you were last at The Six Mile Pub oh, 10 years ago, it is altogether possible that you pulled up on your Hog and maybe even enjoyed the carnality of a barroom brawl. In fact, I’m certain I saw you there at the epic fray of ’06. The atmosphere now, while certainly friendly, is a far cry from those rollicking days of yore. Today you can enjoy housemade delicacies like grape jelly, the grapes picked from an onsite organic garden pollinated by the bees in their apiary program. And you can even bring the kids. When evaluating a pub, one must try the Ploughman’s. It is available in two sizes, the Sampler for $8.95 (it’s got to be a loss leader) and the Board for $16.95. This is fancy Ploughman’s. The Scotch egg is an adorable quail egg encased in English banger sausage dough and then rolled in gluten-free breadcrumbs. It is both baked and fried to get a balance of juiciness and crispness. The rillettes on the board are sophisticated, a smoked sockeye salmon one and a

very creamy chicken and pork one. Meats are carefully sourced: house-cured smoked and roasted turkey originating from Rossdown Farms in Abbotsford is one example, and all the chicken is halal. The Branston Pickle is housemade, as are the pickled local beets and the B.C. sprouts done kimchi-style. The Artichoke and Roasted Mushroom Lasagne is on the lunch menu for $12.95. If I were in charge of naming, I would call it “spiral lasagne pinwheel” to speak to its creative and beautiful presentation, with its circles of tender noodles embracing meaty portobella mushrooms and toothsome artichoke hearts. Other dishes showed the same attention to detail. The corned beef in the Reuben, for example, is brined for 12 days, smoked and slow poached, and the purple cabbage sauerkraut is fermented in-house. This historic pub, arguably the oldest in western Canada, has several dining areas, so beyond a family meal or a friends’ night out, it’s also great for parties.

Salt Spring Island Cheese

The Hudson, #6-1701 Douglas St. at Herald, 778-433-2437 This cheese shop at the Hudson Market had me at the cheese sampling bar: a long, enticing row of 15 goat cheeses available for tasting, along with little lashings of Salt Spring Kitchen Company jams and jellies. So the fact that there is also an on-site?? kitchen is a happy bonus. New in the last two months is a small selection of pizzas for around $8.50. Salmon pizza pairs smoked salmon from Cowichan Bay with Lemon Chèvre and lemon-infused olive oil, along with a bit of mozzarella for the chewy fun factor in pizza. The Prosciutto Olive Pizza showcases the Ruckles Chèvre, which is marinated with fresh rosemary, thyme and oregano and packaged with grapeseed oil and fresh chives. Cont’d next page

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a farm to table restaurant

Elizabeth Nyland

left: Cheeses: (clockwise from top) Raincoast crisps rosemary raisin pecan crackers, basil chevre, flower chevre (plain chevre with edible flower), Blue Juliette (surface ripened cheese) right: Pizza: Veggie Mediterranean

www.olorestaurant.com

You can’t have a cheese-centred kitchen without a quiche, and Salt Spring does not let us down. For $7.50, I had the Tomato Pesto Goat Cheese Quiche with soup. The quiche was beautiful, with layers of colour and the pesto a dollop in the centre, like a British jam tart. The tomato soup had the thickness and sweetness of a good passata. But despite the fancier offerings, my absolute favourite was the Grilled Cheese Panini for $7.50. Aged cheddar and your choice of goat cheese are melded in this beautifully crisped sandwich with gooey, melting cheese inside. I chose the Romelia, a washed rind goat cheese similar to Oka, which created depth in my sandwich as I would get occasional hints of smoke, even tobacco, from the rind. The spicy tomato jam on the side is the perfect accent. A one-stop location for both cheese shopping and lunch is my definition of happiness.

Victoria BBQ House and Bakery 1714 Government St. at Fisgard, 250-382-8022

The BBQ duck For quick snacks and protein fixes, I go to Victoria BBQ House and Bakery. You can buy filled buns or meat on rice. That’s pretty much it, but there is variety within those two categories, and most certainly affordability. The stuffed buns, the Chinese version of a quick sandwich, all go for $1.55, and the flavours are myriad: barbecue pork, curry beef, green onion and cheese, cheese and sausage, etc. The curry beef in the bun of the same name includes lots of onions and some peas. The stripe on the top of the bun has a sweet flavour

that enhances the curry in the same way a sweet chutney might. The barbecue pork bun is a bit sweeter than others I have had, which makes it very attractive to children in my posse, and the bun is more tender than some. Co-owner Lin Kan Ng diverges from a more traditional recipe by using two types of flour. Secrecy impairs my learning more, but perhaps he is using tricks from his days cooking at dim sum restaurants in Macau. Sweet buns and balls range from the typical sesame ball you would see on dim sum menus to the Special Pineapple Bun. Word to the wise—no pineapples were harmed in the making of this bun. It just looks like a pineapple with its oblong of crusty topping. The Chinese trick with pineapple buns is to use a fork to pat the crumbly topping down so it doesn’t fall out. For a bigger protein hit, you can buy a bunch of meat on rice. Yes, pretty simple, but for $6.95, that is fine. The Chinese barbecue classics are all there: barbecue pork, soy sauce chicken and barbecue duck. This place is mostly takeout, but there are two rickety tables you can perch at if need be. For a get-’er-done dinner and a slam-bam school lunch in the Monk household, it’s a chunk of duck on rice, and then a barbecue pork bun and a sesame ball in the lunch kit. Cost: minimal. Convenience: priceless.

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Re-Start The winery’s grand opening will showcase the new owner’s plans to make Blue Grouse Estate Winery and Vineyard a destination winery in the Cowichan Valley. BY JOSEPH BLAKE

“H

ey, look at that red-tailed hawk right down there in the stand of trees by the creek!” exclaims winemaker Bailey Williamson mid-sentence as we stand in the sun behind Blue Grouse Estate Winery. “That creek starts at Dugan Lake. The lake is spring-fed and there are no motor boats allowed. The riparian area is very important to us.” Williamson continues while scanning the wooded land below the south-sloping vines. “We want to be good custodians of the land.” Paul Brunner, who bought Blue Grouse in July 2012, has built a large new winery and tasting room not far from the old homestead and tasting room. On the weekend of May 23, the architecturally stunning structure will have its grand opening, and people will be invited to see the retired mining executive’s big plans for Blue Grouse. Brunner grew up in Nanaimo, was educated at Colorado School of Mines and worked in Sudbury, South Africa, Australia and South America before marrying his Peruvian wife Cristina. “My wife and I were looking for a project,” he tells me by phone from Miami last month. “We liked the wine industry and checked out spots in California, Chile, Argentina and France before my wife came across Blue Grouse near where my brother lives. It’s a beautiful spot.” Brunner has big plans, but he’s also realistic. “We’ve got to walk before we run,” he says when I ask him to describe his dreams for the winery. “We’ve got to build our sales up to 5,000 cases. That gives us a profitable footing, and that’s the first step. Once we’re

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EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015

Blue Grouse Estate Winery and Vineyard, 4365 Blue Grouse Rd., Duncan B.C., 250-743-3834, www.bluegrouse.ca. The new winery and tasting room will be open to the public starting on May 23rd.

Colin Hynes

Gary Hynes

Blue Grouse winemaker Bailey Williamson stands in the mezzanine of the new winery that looks out over vineyards and valley

established as a destination winery, I can imagine selling related products: well water, spirits, more sparkling wine and port-style using our Black Muscat grape, picnic supplies like local-made cheese and prosciutto. Maybe eventually a little bed and breakfast. My 21-year old daughter is in Scotland studying math and physics. Maybe she’ll get interested in the project too.” John Harper first planted grapes at Blue Grouse with an Agriculture Canada grant in 1977. Dr. Hans Kiltz and his wife, Evangeline, bought the property in 1988, rejuvenated what he could from Harper’s experiments with grapes and planted-out the rest of the property with seven varietals. “There’s a deep history of viniculture here,” Bailey Williamson explains. “It’s important to carry on that legacy. Building a facility like this, a real destination winery, is going to benefit everyone in the Cowichan Valley.” Bailey worked as a cook at Herald Street Cafe, Cafe Brio and other Victoria restaurants before moving to the Okanagan to pursue his passion for wine. “I was single and had the luxury to take any kind of work in the vineyards and wineries, any $12/hour job just to learn the craft. By the time I’d worked my way up to assistant winemaker for Road 13’s Michael Bartier, I was ready for this job at Blue Grouse.” Since buying Blue Grouse, Brunner has continued to acquire neighbouring land. Now 45 acres, Blue Grouse currently has a third of the property in estate-grown grapes with plans to plant six more acres next summer. Williamson and his crew also produce 2,000 cases of the winery’s Quill label portfolio from Okanagan-grown grapes. The Blue Grouse estate-grown wines include Bacchus, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Black Muscat. They are currently for sale at the Duncan Farmers’ Market and after the new tasting room’s grand opening, the Quill and estate portfolios will be for sale at Blue Grouse seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. “We built the new winery and tasting room from locally sourced materials,” Williamson explains as we tour the new facility. “We also wanted to put as light a footprint on the environment as possible by using geothermal energy. The pond in front of the winery provides irrigation, fire suppression and geo-thermal energy with a system of glycol loops, and there is an artesian well that produces 60 gallons of water an hour.” We walk past the entrance fireplace, long, L-shaped tasting bar and the catering kitchen built for special events like this month’s grand opening. Upstairs is a boardroom and office with a large, wooden wall mount honouring the Kiltz family and a breathtaking view of the southsloping vineyard, old homestead and stunningly beautiful valley It will likely inspire further expansion of his destination location at Blue Grouse and the expanding wine tourism industry in the Cowichan Valley.


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g COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH —By Shawn Soole

It's Back...Foch eh!

Next Gen Gin

Colin Hynes

pictured: West Coast Gimlet

T

he last decade has seen an explosion of distilling in British Columbia and a growth in locally made spirits, especially in the past two years. Every month a new gin hits the market using B.C. grain, locally foraged herbs or obscure ingredients that set them apart. It’s an exciting time for gin enthusiasts, locavores and bartenders alike. It all began in Saanich in 2008 when Victoria Spirits distilled its first bottle of Victoria Gin. Since then, dozens of new gins have been created across the province. But it isn’t about replicating the London Dry styles of our parents. It is

more about creating a style of our own while staying true to the Pacific Northwest. The Northwest Dry style, a term coined by Aviation Gin from Portland, has defined the direction of many gin styles in the province. Making the most o f the region’s terroir, distillers are creating a spirit truly British Columbian in style while creating enough variation to make it stand out in the crowd. Here are six gins making a splash locally. AMPERSAND Duncan, Vancouver Island Bang-for-your-buck killer sweet citrus backed with classic aromatics. A versatile gin for many cocktails. STUMP Victoria, Vancouver Island Like walking through a coastal forest after a rainstorm. Unique, locally foraged botanicals perfectly paired with the range of tonics from Phillip’s Fermentorium as well. EMPIRIC Courtney, Vancouver Island Robust citrus tones upfront, with prominent juniper and coriander backbone. Light pepper and lavender on the back end. DOCTOR’S ORDERS Naramata, Okanagan Locally foraged juniper berries, coriander and citrus mingle with a unique lineup of Okanagan flavours: lavender, elderberry, mint and apple. WALLFLOWER Vancouver Beautiful melding of classic flavours of citrus and juniper with the subtly of the B.C. terroir. A highly mixable gin. NOTEWORTHY Oliver, Okanagan Huge floral tones and an amazing mouthfeel backed up with classic aromatics. E

O P E N DA I LY 11 A M T O 5 P M eh 6552 NORTH R D | DU NCA N BC | 250.709.9986 Purchase our w ines online at ww w.averillcreek .ca

West Coast Gimlet 1½ oz Stump Gin ½ oz Hop Drop ½ oz simple syrup ¾ oz lime juice Shake and double-strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.

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REPORTER Pilgrimme

Chef Jesse McCleery and partner Leanne Lalonde

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Lightly cured Qualicum scallops with lemon verbena with roasted cauliower, kale and fennel pollen over cauliower and bone marrow puree, surrounded by lemon verbena oil

EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015

Story & photos by Shelora Sheldan

Oregon Winter keeper squash cooked in whey 3 hours & served on top of whey butter with a red cabbage-dashi froth, pickled bull kelp and dehydrated sea lettuce.

The Pilgrimme dining room


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A new farm-to-table restaurant on Galiano Island is worthy of a short pilgrimage across the water.

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ot all pilgrimages are spiritual quests. Some are pursuits of excellence, voyages of discovery or expeditions to foreign lands, but all are goal-oriented and driven by passionate determination to make dreams reality. Nestled in a wooded acreage on Galiano Island, the exciting new destination restaurant Pilgrimme is the culmination of one chef’s journey, or pilgrimage, of culinary excellence and the realization of a dream. Like most chefs, 36-year-old Winnipeg-born Jesse McCleery has moved around, learning discipline, skills and techniques. He worked at Café Brio, ran the kitchens at high-end wilderness resorts, lived in Vancouver honing butchery and charcuterie skills at Oyama and did private catering on Galiano Island, a place he knew he would eventually settle on for its access to organic farming and wild foods. He has also been buying equipment over the years, filling a storage locker with circulators, dehydrators and good grinders. “It’s coming in handy now,” says McCleery. In April last year, McCleery returned to the Island after an intensive six-month stage at Noma. The twoMichelin-star restaurant in Copenhagen is co-owned by chef René Redzepi, renowned for redefining Nordic cuisine with 20-course tasting menus. Working in the service kitchen, McCleery worked every section from pastry to cleaning moss to mains—even foraging for wood ants!—and settled on the snack section preparing the first eight to 10 courses of the tasting menu because “they were the most interesting and fast-paced.” He worked 18 hours a day, six days a week, surviving on four hours’ sleep a night. “I loved it,” says McCleery. “I basically went there because the food is how I want to cook here,” says McCleery, “like how they could do a dish solely based on cabbage or Swiss chard, using textures. A lot less protein on the plate and more vegetables. It’s really the future,” he says. McCleery and his partner, Leanne Lalonde, who runs the front of house at Pilgrimme, discovered the Galiano property during a catering gig last year. The much-loved French restaurant La Berengerie had closed after 30 years and had sat empty for a year before they took the plunge and signed a lease. “I never wanted a place in the city,” he notes. “I wanted to be in the woods and close to the farms.” They first cleaned and readied the kitchen of the twostorey, 1980s building, and while the summer was spent renovating the dining room and upstairs three-bedroom suite (where the two live), they opened the patio for a pop-up taco shop called Village Tacos serving handmade tortillas with vegetable-based fare. The events proved popular and became a way for them to meet neighbours, part-time residents, farmers, fishers and craftspeople,

while allowing them time to finish the dining room and prepare a menu in time for their soft opening last October. (The grand opening will be in May with a salute to the former restaurant owner.) Pilgrimme is a warm space with lots of natural light, wood beams, wood flooring and minimal decor, save for a spectacular Vladimir Tretchikoff print. There are only 25 seats, including a communal table and the bar, with more on the outdoor patio. The menu, a list of sharing plates, is hyper-local and seasonal. Everything is made on site, from wild yeast breads to pickles to infused salts and oils and fermented foods. When I visited in March, true to his vision of the future, the menu had a vegetable focus. Any proteins served throughout the year will be seasonal fish and those unsung meaty cuts such as heart and neck. I began with a lovely opener of crispy lemony chickpea panisse, served with pickled Galiano vegetables and garlic aioli. Next, thinly sliced celeriac, macerated with lemon, was served with sprouted wheat and rye berries and sauce gribiche. Chef suggested using the celeriac as a scoop for the egg-based sauce and it was a delightful balance of bright acidity, saltiness and creaminess. Fermented ingredients show up a lot at Pilgrimme. McCleery loves the notes of acidity and umaminess they bring. Fermented plums provided just that to a dish of beef heart tartare, along with residual sweetness. Thinly sliced radishes and rye toast delivered a satisfying crunch. A warm round of wild rye sourdough was a course in itself, the kefir butter adding a layer of tart flavour and aroma to the dense and full-flavoured bread. (I also tried an off-the-charts fermented potato bread the day before, slathered with leek ash butter.) A dish of winter Oregon squash, cooked for three hours in whey, was served atop whey butter presented with a centre of red cabbage-dashi froth, dusted with dehydrated sea lettuce and pickled bull kelp. The squash was meaty and slightly sweet with hints of the sea and a delicate tang. And lamb collar, served with a cumin goat yogurt and parsley pesto, was like a futuristic kind of shawarma served with lacto-fermented cucumber and ribbons of slow-cooked red cabbage. All the dishes were exciting explorations of texture and flavour and all visually stunning. Leanne Lalonde provided seamless service throughout, pairing the dishes with either craft beer or B.C. wines. “In many ways everyone is on a sort of pilgrimage,” says McCleery. “We are all searching for something, whether we know it or not.” If you are a seeker, I urge you to forge a path to Pilgrimme soon. E Pilgrimme, 2806 Montague Rd, Galiano Island, 250-5395392, dinners daily in the summer, 5 p.m. to close

If You Go

Galiano Inn and Spa

Galiano Island can be reached via BC Ferries from both Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island and Tsawwassen, with several direct sailings to Sturdies Bay, bcferries.com

Eat Pilgrimme is located at 2806 Montague Road, close to the Montague Marina. They’re open weekly in the summer from 5 pm to close and reservations are essential. Sunday brunch and/or Village Taco pop-up still to be decided., 250-539-5392

Food Trucks Flying Black Dog is permanently parked at 97 Georgeson Bay Road serving up homemade burgers, cookies and rice bowls. Max & Moritz at the Sturdies Bay ferry terminal dishes up German and Indonesian fare.

Stay Galiano Inn and Spa, situated only a block from the Sturdies Bay ferry terminal, offers luxe oceanfront accommodation. The lobby is home to the incredible Kunamokst mosaic mural, created for the 2010 Olympics. Quiet one bedroom suites are well-appointed with kitchen area and a spacious terrace completed with outdoor grill, hot tub and wood-burning fireplace, a perfect early morning perch while wrapped in a cozy robe to watch the sunrise and take in bird watching and the ocean view. Full spa facilities with outdoor infrared sauna are tucked into a garden area complete with koi pond. Key shopping is all within walking distance to the hotel. Breakfast and dinner is served in the Atrevida dining room, and summers wood-fired pizzas served in the outdoor patio are a going concern. Bonus: The Inn offers smart cars for rent ($80 a day including gas and insurance) galianoinn.com

Shop The Saturday market, held at Lion’s Park, from 10 AM to 2 pm every week, offers locally grown produce, crafts, artisan baking and live music, galianoisland.com, or take a walking studio art tour (map available at tourist kiosk). Galiano Island Books for new and used books and holds an annual Literary Festival every February, 76 Madrona, galianobooks.com Galiano Soapworks makes natural skin care products with many wild foraged ingredients, 1153 Georgeson Bay Rd., galianoislandsoapworks.com

Explore This is a hiker’s paradise with a plethora of trails, beaches, parks and ecological reserves, all well marked, or take the walking art tour of South Galiano artists every Saturday. Maps available at the Galiano Inn or at the tourist info booth near the ferry terminal.

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Eat

with Zero Waste

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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015


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Local businesses are teaming up with environmental consultants to reduce food waste in Victoria. By Cinda Chavich

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o one wants to discard perfectly good food, but the reality is that we all waste food, and plenty of it. The numbers are truly shocking—we discard 40 per cent of the food we produce in North America, half of it in our own homes. All the while, people are starving, or living in urban “food deserts,” and finding it hard to access and afford fresh produce. If that isn’t sobering enough, think of the environment, our air and oceans, and the impact of greenhouse gas emissions. If food waste were a country, it would be the third largest CO2 producer in the world, after China and the U.S. Never mind the fresh water and other natural resources that go into producing food that is never consumed. Or the methane—another egregious greenhouse gas—created when food waste breaks down in a typical landfill. Food is wasted from farm to fork, discarded in the field to keep prices high or because it’s not the perfect size for grocery retailers. It’s dumped when it hits arbitrary “best before” dates, and tossed because of labelling issues. Finally, it’s purged from our refrigerators and scraped off plates in restaurants because we cooked or ordered, more than we could eat. It’s all a terrible waste and an environmental disaster that’s completely preventable. Consumers, grocers and food service operators are the worst offenders when it comes to food waste. Food scraps are clogging our landfills to the point where local governments have mandated that we separate them for composting. That’s a start, but the real solution is buying less, shopping smarter, and using up the food we have before we have to discard it.

Food Waste Warriors Here on the west coast, we’re ahead of the curve, with most households already collecting their food scraps for communal composting. And though it’s estimated that the average restaurant tosses 150,000 pounds of organic garbage each year, we have some forward-thinking folks on that front, too. Jill Doucette’s environmental consulting firm, Synergy Enterprises, has been behind several of the restaurant “greening” initiatives in Victoria. Her list of culinary clients include Oughtred Coffee and Teas, Zambri’s, the Inn at Laurel Point, Truffles Catering, Canoe Brewpub, Big Wheel Burger and Habit Coffee, all businesses that are proudly “carbon neutral” thanks to energy reduction and waste management programs. Other local restaurants certified under the Vancouver Island Green Business Certification Program include A.J.’s Organic Café, Sitka Café, FishHook, Bubby’s Kitchen, Yates Street Taphouse and My Chosen Café. Many are composting food waste, recycling cooking oil for biofuel, using compostable paper products and eschewing packaging and bottled water to reduce their carbon footprint.

“In Greater Victoria there are about 70 businesses certified, and 30 or 40 restaurants,” says Doucette. Now Synergy is helping these green businesses form the country’s first Food Eco District (FED), a six-block area in the city’s downtown core where these green dining establishments are clustered. “There are eco-districts in Portland and that was part of the inspiration,” says Doucette who is director of the new Food Eco District Society. “There is an interest here, especially in green restaurants, sustainable food and sustainable practices.” Local restaurant owner Calen McNeil is behind the FED project, too. An owner of Big Wheel Burger, Zambri’s and The Guild, McNeil has long been big on green businesses and says the FED is a way to join forces with other likeminded restaurateurs. “There are just 15 businesses now, but it’s a start,” says McNeil, who devised Big Wheel as a carbon-neutral fast food restaurant from the start. “Restaurants are one of the highest carbon-producing businesses per square foot. We are trying to be role models, ambassadors for the greening of the industry.” The biggest part of the equation, when it comes to greening a restaurant, is reducing waste, and that can mean composting food waste, ordering in bulk to reduce packaging and reducing portion size. McNeil says Big Wheel originally ser ved a 15 oz. portion of fries but noticed customers only ever consumed half an order. Shrinking the portion size helped reduce the amount of food discarded. The FED society plans to further “green” the downtown dining district with a series of planter boxes, growing food and herbs around member restaurants, and creating green spaces for people to gather.

Save Food, Save Money The annual cost of food waste in Canada is more than $100 billion and on average, a restaurant will produce 150,000 pounds of organic garbage a year. It’s estimated that reducing food waste could save businesses 15 to 30 per cent of their operating costs. “It may be slightly more expensive to compost, but you are going to be paying to remove your garbage anyway,” says McNeil. “We are now diverting 90 percent of all waste, and pay only a small $100 monthly offset credit to be carbon neutral.” And soon it won’t be a choice. In some cities, notably San Francisco, Seattle and now Vancouver, composting is mandated by local government, for both households and businesses. Metro Vancouver’s organics ban was launched January 1, and though there is a six-month grace period, there will be stiff fines for restaurants, grocers and other food service outlets that send food scraps to the dump. Doucette says the CRD has a similar bylaw in place with all kitchen scraps banned from the Hartland landfill as of January 1, 2015.

Along with a humorous Food isn’t Garbage advertising campaign, Metro Vancouver will also launch its Love Food, Hate Waste (LFHW) website this spring, a brand developed in the U.K. to encourage consumers to reduce food waste with tips, information and recipes. But the best way to reduce food waste is simply to stop generating excess food. At home, that means using up what you have in the refrigerator before shopping for more food. In a restaurant, it can mean changing the entire menu. Chris Whittaker of Vancouver’s Forage restaurant is the poster chef for sustainable, zero-waste dining. Not only does Whittaker run a nose-to-tail kitchen, using ingredients from local food producers and making sure scraps are recycled into soups and sauces, the restaurant was designed with energy reduction and recycling as priorities. “We compost everything, and I have been doing this for 12 years,” says Whittaker who says eliminating the free bread basket and changing to a small plates menu has helped reduce food waste. “People just need to start small,” says Whittaker. “We do our black vegetable compost at home and the green cone for meat scraps. I just screened the soil and ended up with 100 litres of beautiful black compost. It’s not a huge investment.”

Fill Bellies, Not Bins While the problem of food waste is not new, you’re about to hear more about it. The UN Food and Agricultural Organization’s (FAO) think.eat.save.org campaign is asking people around the globe to reduce their “carbon foodprint.” Meanwhile, Feeding the 5000 events in cities around the world shine a light on the “global food waste scandal.” According to a recent piece in the New York Times, the topic of food waste ranked #9 in the National Restaurant Association’s top 20 food trends for 2015. Luckily, we do have people in Victoria working to reduce food waste, from the gleaners at LifeCycles who recover unwanted fruit from “urban orchards” (i.e., fruit trees in private backyards) and share it with people in need, to local companies like reFUSE offering an organics recycling program for restaurants, grocers and institutions. Partnered with the BC Restaurant and Food Services Association and the Island Chefs Collaborative, they also produce and sell reSOIL, an organic compost created from local organic food waste. It all starts with a personal commitment. My parents didn’t have a lot of money when we were kids, but they always had a big garden and enough time to make sure the fruits of their labours got into jars or freezer bags to feed the family. We used up bread in bread puddings and made pies with the wild berries we picked together as a family. A side of beef or a lamb from the local farm was cut and wrapped in the fall for the freezer and nothing was wasted. Today we call that food security—an idea that’s more relevant than ever. E

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g LOCAL KITCHEN

Give Peas a Chance Fresh peas are too irresistibly delicious to banish to the side bowl. Out of their protective pods, their sweet sunny flavour is edible assurance that summer bounty starts now. Be bold and make them the main attraction.

Fresh Pea Soup This is best served warm vs. hot. Also great chilled on a hot day with a glass of rose. Makes 6 cups. Big knob of butter 2 shallots, diced 1 garlic clove, minced 3½ cups water or light vegetable stock 5 cups shelled fresh peas (or frozen peas, thawed)

2 tsp dried tarragon ½ cup chopped parsley (or ¼ cup each parsley and mint) ½ lemon, juiced

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add shallots and garlic. Cook until soft (not browned), about 5 - 7 minutes. Add 2 cups water or stock and a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then add peas and tarragon. Reduce heat and simmer until peas are tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat, then stir in remaining 1½ cups water or broth, parsley and lemon juice. Purée soup (add more water, if needed). For a silkier texture, strain through a fine mesh sieve and discard solids. If not serving right away, chill quickly in an ice water bath (this will help keep the vibrant green colour).* Reheat gently before serving. Ladle into glasses, mugs or bowls and swirl in spoonfuls of Beet Pesto (below). *Fill a sink with ice and a small amount of water. Insert soup pot and add enough cold water to come ¾ up side of pot. Stir soup to cool quickly.

Beet Pesto Earthy roasted beets play well with peas. In a food processor, whirl 3 chopped roasted beets with 2 minced garlic cloves and ¼ cup toasted pinenuts until mixed. Continue to whirl and slowly drizzle in ½ cup olive oil. Stir in 1/3 cup grated Parmesan and pinches of sea salt.

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Wine Pairing

A bold summer sammie calls for an equally bold rosé. Look for a punchy deeper hued dry rosé, one with the structure and generous fruit to stand up to the flavours, and the juicy, bright acidity to refresh the palate. With ingredients this fresh and local, it makes sense to look to BC for one of the fruit-forward rosés we excel at. —T Ring

Halibut & Sweet Pea Sammies Catch the last wave of halibut season and pan-fry, grill or smoke fillets for a big bold sandwich. Don’t be fooled and believe the fish is the main attraction here, it’s really the pea aioli that makes these guys pop. 1 cup shelled fresh peas (or frozen peas, thawed)

¼ - ½ tsp cayenne pepper

1½ lbs (0.75 kg) halibut or salmon fillet, cut into 6 portions 2 garlic cloves (TIP: roast a bulb of garlic – it mellows the sharp flavour) 1 tsp each Dijon-tarragon mustard and lemon juice

Sea salt and pepper, to taste

½ cup mayonnaise

Sweet smoked paprika, to taste 4-6 buns (we love Fol Epi’s chewy ciabatta buns) Fresh pea shoots (optional)

For the aioli whirl ¾ cup peas with garlic, mustard, lemon juice and cayenne pepper in a blender until well puréed. Add a little water, if needed, although you don’t want a runny purée. Stir into mayo. Generously season fish with salt, pepper and paprika. Pan-fry, roast, steam or grill accordingly! To serve, split buns, then generously spread both sides with aioli. Top bottom halves with remaining peas and pea shoots. Layer in Pretty Pink Pickled Onions (below), then top with fish.

Pretty Pink Pickled Onions Slice 1 red onion into rings. Simmer ¾ cup rice vinegar with 3 Tbsp sugar, 1 smashed garlic clove, 1 small dried chili pepper and pinches of sea salt, fennel seeds and few cloves, until sugar dissolves. Add onion slices. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 secs. Remove from heat and cool in liquid. Pour into a jar and refrigerate up to 1 week.

Text, recipes by JENNIFER DANTER Food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY Art Direction by JENNIFER DANTER & GARY HYNES

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Special Eat Promotion

The Harbour Hub

02....A Tour of the Neighbourhood 02....Walking Tour Map 04....Cocktail Suggestions 05....Our Racy Past 07....The Pickle Pub Crawl 08....What’s Happening 09....Top Foodie Picks

PRESENTED BY

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VICTORIA’S BIGGEST LITTLE SECRET

EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015

TOURS - TAXIS - CHARTERS

PICKLE PUB CRAWL WWW.VICTORIAHARBOURFERRY.COM

Rebecca Wellman

Jason McMillan (Swans Brewpub), Peter Debruyn (Sticky Wicket), Jamie Geldart (Lido), Mike Andrews (Steamship), Mathew Enright (Belleville’s), Captain Dave Knowlton (Victoria Harbour Ferry), Takumi Kitamura (Hotel Grand Pacific), Morgan Wilson (Empress), Greg Goodine (Blue Crab).


EAT Magazine May-June 2015_Victoria_56_Layout 1 5/4/15 10:06 AM Page 33

A Tour of the Inner Harbour

The wide, watery heart of the city is a bustling place where history, commerce and culture, boats, tourists and performers all converge.

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Buildings before pouring down the carnival-like Causeway, past sketch artists, puppeteers, jugglers and buskers like bushy-bearded, world-class one-man-band David Harris and his caterwauling blues vocals. The touristic tide flows up Government Street past T-shirt shops and cultural heritage gems like Munro’s Books and Old Morris Tobacconists with its sweet smell of a century’s worth of Cuban cigars. The seasonal mob shuffles into Bastion Square’s public market, ducks into theme pubs and modern cocktail bars and feasts at excellent Old Town restaurants showcasing locally grown, fished and foraged food. Everything from fine dining offerings to pub food is geared toward the 100-Mile Diet and supporting our burgeoning local producers. Food trucks are another component of the vibrant scene, and from late spring to early fall they’re part of the celebrations at Ship Point during the harbour’s almost-weekly festival schedule: Island Summer Games’ Harbour 3 on 3 Basketball Tournament in June; Ska Fest and Canada Day festivities in July; Dragon Boat Festival, Tour de Victoria and the Victoria Symphony Orchestra’s Symphony Splash in August; and Chalk Art Festival, Wooden Boat Festival and Blues Bash in September. The noise and crowds probably reach their annual peak during that August symphony performance as tens of thousands are drawn to the Inner Harbour to gaze out to the floating stage and thrill to the concert’s climax—a sizzling fireworks display during the finale of Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture. But there’s also something very special about having the path along the water to yourself on a foggy, early morning walk once most of the crowds have thinned out. Sharing Old Town and the Inner Harbour on a day like that with only the squawking gulls and other seabirds sailing by is a quiet, contemplative joy too. It’s another good reason to love Victoria and the heart of the city, it’s Inner Harbour. BY JOSEPH BLAKE

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ictoria’s harbour has always been this city’s pulsating heart. For thousands of years, when waterways were the primary transportation routes, the harbour was home to the Lekwungen-speaking people and a trading destination for First Nations travelling across the Strait of Juan de Fuca from the Olympic Peninsula and from as far north as Alaska and Haida Gwaii. A century ago, before the automobile and transcontinental railroads drove population growth to Seattle and Vancouver, Victoria’s harbour was second only to San Francisco on the Pacific Coast. Echoes of earlier times still reverberate on the Inner Harbour today. My wife and I are avid kayakers who have paddled local waters for more than three decades. We started as novices paddling down the Gorge into the busy Inner Harbour, and we still love visiting Victoria from the water: listening for the roar of seaplanes landing and taking off, dodging the little Victoria Harbour Ferries as they tool across the water to their landings, passing the Victoria Clipper as it slips in and out of its dock on high-speed Seattle trips, and hearing the deep blast of a horn from Blackball Transport’s Coho Ferry leaving and entering the harbour. Giant, modern yachts and smaller boats of every description add to the vibrant, noisy scene. I love the view from the floor-to-ceiling windows at Delta Ocean Pointe’s Lure Restaurant and Bar. On a clear, dark night, sparkling stars and lights from Old Town, the Fairmont Empress and Francis Rattenbury’s other 19th-century architectural beauty—the B.C. Parliament Buildings—reflect off the water. It’s one of the most romantic urban waterfront scenes in the world. In tourist season, the corner of Government and Belleville Streets is one of the busiest pedestrian crossings in Canada as throngs visit the Royal B.C. Museum, take formal afternoon tea at the Empress and sun themselves on the spacious lawns of the Parliament

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BELLEVILLE’S WATERING HOLE & DINER

The Academy Dental Story The storied Vic-Maui Race

Great food, atmosphere and staff guess we should start at the beginning…My name is Petr Prusa. When we (Managing Partner Rob Chyzowski and I) took the place over we thought that the potential was there to create an amazing place that was geared towards the locals. Give them fabulous food at a great price, kill them with service and throw in some great deals on booze and we’ll have a winner! We wanted to create a place that was fun: fun for the staff and clientele, as well as for us. We needed a guy that knew the industry and could put a system in place, and that’s where Rob came in. I call him Robbie Numbers for a reason. The man knows systems and if anyone can get the job done it’s Rob. "Rob runs the joint," I always say. I often wonder if I'm just there to look good. We needed a chef; a chef that could see our vision and also be able to produce a menu that could service the 350 seats with the kitchen that we had inherited. This took us 5 months and a bit of teeth biting but then all of a sudden along came Marc Lagimodiere; a fabulous fellow with an extensive background. We all fell into mutual weirdness and the magic was born! We created a menu that had a lot of traditional items but gave them all a twist and used fresh, local ingredients! An example of that is the Kulwinder. This lovely lady creates our samosas and butter chicken for us. She's worked in the kitchen here for over 20 years so we thought it fitting to create a dish and name it after her; 2 gorgeous hand made samosas, topped with poached eggs then we cover this with a lovely Tieki masala sauce and top that with a pineapple chutney...To die for!! We new it was going to be a fun place when we replaced the sports jersey that was the centrepiece of the bar, with a large poster of Kramer!! We can’t wait to meet you. Come fall into mutual weirdness with us. 427 Belleville Street, Victoria, BC, (250) 413-2707 www.bellevilles.ca

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The Victoria Harbour Ferry Story

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ictoria Harbour Ferry was founded in 1990 with a tiny fleet of two Benford Ferry Boats, hand built in Port Hardy, BC. Current owners, John Heraghty, Barry Hobbis, Bill Petersmeyer and Nick Samsom took over Victoria Harbour Ferry and now that small fleet of two ferry boats has grown into a fleet of 15 small 12-passenger boats, two larger 40-passenger boats and 60 employees. The harbour ferries travel over 60,000 kilometers and make over 90,000 stops around Victoria’s Inner Harbour, the Gorge Waterway and Nanaimo each season. The Captains of these cute ferries are known worldwide for their sense of humour, knowledge of local history and landmarks and unique information tidbits. This year marks Victoria Harbour Ferry’s 25th Anniversary. They are proud to say that they have now provided service to over 4 million ‘happy people in happy boats’ from all around the world. www.victoriaharbourferry.com

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r. Frank Van Gyn has always had a love affair with the ocean and has a personal connection with Victoria’s Inner Harbor: In the summer of 1992, he set sail with a salty crew of friends and dental colleagues on the Peterson 41 sailboat Carmanah, bound for Hawaii. The Vic-Maui race has a storied history dating back to the inaugural race in 1965. The race departs from the Inner Harbor once every two years and the boats and covers 2308 nautical miles. Skipper Frank and his crew arrived at the finishing line at the Lahina Yacht Club on July 19th at 5:34am after 14 days and 17 hours on the Pacific Ocean. They celebrated their 3rd place finish in their class and their 4th overall win with a couple cold brews, several terrible sunburns and memories that will last a lifetime. Academy Dental 1195 Fort St, Victoria, BC (250) 385 6552 www.dentistvictoria.com Vic-Maui Website: ww.vicmaui.org


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Captain’s Cocktails Harbour Hub bartenders let you in on the favourite drinks

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any bartenders at drinking establishments in the downtown neighbourhood seem to be following a world-wide trend in updating classic cocktails with subtle personal touches. Asked to name their favourite cocktail and why, here is what our Harbour Hub bartenders had to say. Patrick Woo, featured bartender at Hotel Grand Pacific The Old Fashioned. I like the simplicity of it, yet you are still able to taste the whiskey. I enjoy other whiskey-based cocktails as well, like The Manhattan and The Sazerac. Shawn Greg, head bartender at Coast Hotel's Blue Crab I've always had a preference for the classic Martini (gin or vodka). A bartender's attention to cleanliness, chilled shakers/ glassware, the perfect stir, correct usage of Vermouth, and a great garnish will be deciding factors of whether the guest thought it was good or great.

Alex Roth, bartender at Bard & Banker "Only one favourite? This is a tough task as I like almost everything, but I will settle on one of my favourite classic cocktails, The Okanagan Spirits Gin Martini. Classic and delicious when executed perfectly, this is THE gin Martini you have to have! Scott Ashton, bartender at Lido Waterfront Bistro My favourtie drink is the Mojito, because of its refreshing qualities. It's the perfect balance of fresh natural ingredients and fun colourful presentation that also has a kick. Yum! Jason Carter, bartender at Irish Times Pimm's Tea Cocktail. Homemade, spicy Mandarin simple syrup poured into a mixing

Chanel Mason, bartender at Belleville's Watering Hole and Diner My Watermelon and Cucumber Mojito made from lime juice, simple syrup, white rum and a splash of ginger ale. They're really delicious! David Dahlberg, bartender at the Sticky Wicket Bourbon Basil Elixir made with Bulleit Bourbon, St. Germaine Elderflower Liqueur, muddled fresh basil, fresh lime juice and a dash of simple syrup. The slightly woody tones of the Bourbon combine nicely with the subtle flowery sweetness of the St. Germaine. Paired with the fresh, bright flavour of basil and a little citrus, and this cocktail really pops on the taste buds! Andrew Elves, bartender at Swans Brew Pub A Frisco is my standby drink, because it tastes good. I favour bourbon over rye, with four parts bourbon to one part Benedictine. If you're precious you can add a few drops of your favourite bitters, but you don't really need to. Prepare and serve like its East Coast cousin, The Manhattan. Dirk VanderWal, bartender at Lure Restaurant + Bar As we head into patio season, I recommend The Vagabond to anyone looking for something bright, refreshing and also complex to enjoy in the sun. We combine Beefeater gin, Lillet Blanc , St. Germaine Elderflower Liqueur, Fentimans Ginger Beer, and a liberal dose of fresh-pressed lemon juice over ice. Patrick Florian, bartender at Bengal Lounge in Fairmont Empress The Empress 1908, a tea-infused vodka cocktail created to celebrate the Empress Hotel's centennial. Passionate about their craft and the history of cocktail culture, all of these local bartenders were eager to invite guests to try their favourite drinks. Sounds like a great idea. BY JOSEPH BLAKE

Colin Hynes

Mark Fenner, head bartender at Steamship Grill and Bar The Bourbon Old Fashioned. For this drink the devil is in the details, and for all its simplicity there is room for a bartender to show some love. (I enjoy Angostura on the heavy side.) I lean towards a wheated bourbon like Makers Mark for a creamier texture and a large ice cube for slow dilution. It's the type of cocktail you drink casually so you can appreciate the nuances of it changing.

glass with lemon juice, Beefeater gin and Pimm's #1. After double straining, this is poured over a cucumber slice and ice foundation in a tall Collins glass and garnished with a slice of cucumber.

EAT’s Resident Barman Creates a Cocktail to Celebrate Victoria’s Harbour

The Victoria Harbour Cocktail The Inner Harbour is steeped in history: from the days of cruise ships pulling up directly to the Empress to unload passengers to its modern role as the host of myriad events yearly. The Victoria Harbour Cocktail transports you back to days on summer pati os watching the sun set over Shoal Point. 1½ oz Ampersand Gin ¾ oz Odd Society Cassis ½ oz lemon juice Top with soda Shake and strain over crushed ice. Garnish with a mint sprig and mixed fruit. BY SHAWN SOOLE

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THE VERANDA Where you’ll find great food and engaging conversations with an unrivalled view.

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The Victoria we know and love grew out of the mud, squalor and vice of its fur trade and gold rush roots. Image F-00157 courtesy of the Royal BC Museum and Archives

beloved secret of The Victoria, Veranda at The Fairmont Empress is unequivocally the best on hideaway kept Victoria’s iconic Inner Perfect for an Harbour. impromptu meeting, a luncheon with friends or just relaxing over a glass of wine to enjoy the sunset; The Veranda has an guests offered unparalleled view of Victoria’s waterfront since 1908. Located just under "The Empress" sign and a quick walk from Victoria's cruise ship terminal, shopping district and cultural scene, The Veranda is the perfect setting for visitors and locals alike to bask in the sights and sounds of Victoria's spirited Inner Harbour. The vine-hugged arches provide guests an unobstructed view of the picturesque Legislative Buildings while heaters, wraps and wind screens offer sanctuary on chilly days and evenings. The Veranda receives the afternoon sun and sunglasses are strongly suggested. Executive Chef Morgan Wilson and team feature the best fare from Vancouver Island under the ambiance of alfresco dining with a menu that reflects casual, relaxed yet refined dining experiences. The Veranda offers an extensive wine list including BC wine selections, along with signature Empress cocktails including the ever-popular Empress 1908 with tea-infused vodka and served with a mini Afternoon Tea scone. The Veranda opens for the season on May 8, 2015 and hours of operations are daily from 11:30am to dusk. Not only is The Veranda a simple, relaxed atmosphere to enjoy any day, but seats can be reserved in advance for the annual Canada Day and Symphony Splash celebrations. While many guests who come to The Veranda check it off their bucket list, several are loyal, local guests. Whether your first visit or one of many, it will soon become a favourite place you will want to be often. Local Friends of the Empress members receive first access to exclusive Veranda offers at friendsofthempress.ca. 721 Government St, Victoria, BC (250) 384-8111

A Short History of the Inner Harbour

Victoria, Queens Market Good Acre Butcher Shop. East side of Government St at Johnson. ca 1880

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he area we call the Inner Harbour, flanked now by the palatial Empress Hotel and the Legislative Buildings, has witnessed many transformations

since the founding of Victoria. Were you to travel back

to 1843, you would see the site of the Empress occupied by a watery inlet: the original James Bay. On the North Shore stood the stockade walls of the newly built Fort Victoria, and across the water, in what is now Victoria West, the longhouses of the Songhees Nation. The people at Fort Victoria, largely trappers with the Hudson’s Bay Company, tried to plant European crops: wheat, barley and oats. However, a fundamental misunderstanding of the climate and soil meant they never had much success and had to import most everything. Other crops, though, such as potatoes, carrots, turnips and camus, all long cultivated by the Songhees, provided the bulk of their local nutrition. Just as it is now, oysters and salmon were well-loved local delicacies among the First

LIDO WATERFRONT BAR & BISTRO The Lido Deck is one of the largest on the Inner Harbour

Nations and Europeans alike. By the 1860s, the fort has been dismantled. The first gold rush swelled the town’s population, and the incorporation of Victoria as a city led to the construction of many of the stone and brick buildings that still stand in the downtown area today. At this time the Inner

njoy panoramic views while enjoying a libation on the LIDO deck or inside. Specializing in Artisan Pizzas, we also offer an array of great tapas, salads and casual fare to compliment a full bar menu, and many local beers on tap. Located on the harbour level, we are surrounded by water on 3 sides and you can even dock your boat right in front! 1234 S. Wharf Street – On the Harbour below Bastion Square, Victoria www.lidobistro.com 250 385 LIDO (4653)

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Harbour was essentially a poor neighbourhood. Small grocers, bakers and general stores supplied prospectors and early legislators of the capital city, alike. Live animals and the smell of dead ones filled the streets. Mud and filth were ubiquitous. Gambling, drink and prostitution spilled out of ramshackle establishments and into the mud. The latter part of the 19th century gave us Victoria at its worst (or possibly best).


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In response to this era of lasciviousness (and more so in response to the great islands of detritus bobbing up and down in James Bay), the waters of the bay were drained and filled in and upon this reclaimed land was built the majestic Empress Hotel. The poverty and squalor of the area was washed away by a great influx of gentrification. Thus came the era of little England. Victorians played at

THE PACIFIC RESTAURANT AT THE HOTEL GRAND PACIFIC Casual fare featuring local, seasonal ingredients and a sunny patio

being British and ate and drank like they lived at the centre of the Empire. The extravagant menus of the time are still on display in the basement of the Empress and are great fun to read. Exotic fruits and other delights rolled in from around the empire by ship. For those who could afford the luxury, this was a wonderful time. Up until the 1920s, Victoria was a place where things were made locally whenever possible. This was a city of small brewers, coffee roasters, pickle makers, bakers and more. Much of this changed after the First World War, when large chain supermarkets began to dominate the markets here. The onset of the Great Depression meant that mass produced goods were cheaper to buy than locally made, small-batch items. Because Victoria is on an island, there has always been a question of balance between what is shipped in and what is locally made. While the period from the 1930s to the 1980s represented the heyday of mechanized food production, we are now seeing a significant shift back to small- scale, artisanal food production. Fortunately, we are managing to do it this time without all the licentiousness. BY ADAM CANTOR

Image E-08482 courtesy of the Royal BC Museum and Archives

The Bavaria Brewery, Fort St., Victoria H. Walther proprietor, ca 1870 Want to read further on the history of the Inner Harbour? Try Feeding the Family: 100 Years of Food and Drink in Victoria by Nancy Oke and Robert Griffin (Royal BC Museum, 2011) or Building Victoria: Men, Myths, and Mortar by Danda Humphries (Heritage House Press, 2009).

ight on the Inner Harbour, The Pacific Restaurant & Terrace offers the sort of West Coast cuisine that Victoria can be proud of. Located in the Hotel Grand Pacific, the restaurant brings together local, sustainable ingredients; an award-winning wine list; and a waterfront patio that’s hard to beat, whether you’re having a casual glass of wine with friends, or a celebratory dinner. While the Hotel Grand Pacific begins renovations starting this fall, The Pacific’s 50seat patio is ready to be enjoyed right now. The restaurant is a new edition to Victoria Harbour Ferry’s Pickle Pub Crawl route, and groups of four participating in the crawl get a free appetizer when dining at The Pacific. Led by Executive Chef Rick Choy, The Pacific’s culinary team has created a menu highlighting B.C. seafood in bistro classics with a West Coast twist. Combine Vancouver Island’s seasonal ingredients with modern flavours, and expect to find items such as Crab Cakes with Fennel & Grapefruit Salsa, Cilantro Aioli and Tomato Jam; and Fish Tacos served with Guacamole, Tomato Salsa, Tomatillo and Jalapeño Sauce. Having recently joined The Pacific’s team, Restaurant Chef Takumi Kitamura has drawn on his Japanese background to offer signature dishes such as Hamachi served with Miso Aioli, Dashi Powder, Garlic Chips, Wasabi, Rice Cracker, and Daikon. But be sure to save room for dessert. Also new to The Pacific, Pastry Chef Whitney Lee has introduced a menu of sweet endings such as Strawberry & Goat Cheese Cheesecake with Basil Anglaise and White Balsamic Syrup—all made in-house, from scratch. To pair with all of these fresh flavours, The Pacific offers a list of wines, craft beers and spirits that highlights local offerings. Curated by the restaurant’s sommelier, the award-winning list includes five wines on tap and available by the glass, some of Victoria’s best locally-brewed beers, and innovative cocktails created by our bar team. The Pacific Restaurant & Terrace is open seven day a week, from 6:30 am to 10:00 pm. The Pacific Lounge is open 4:30 pm – 11:00 pm Sunday – Thursday and 4:30 pm – 12:00 am Friday & Saturday. Live music is featured on Friday and Saturday nights, 8:00 pm – 11:00 pm. Bookings can be made by calling 250-380-4458, or via www.hotelgrandpacific.com. 463 Belleville St, Victoria, BC

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There are 2,855 farms on Vancouver Island including 991 in Greater Victoria and 700 in the Cowichan Valley There are 330 tech companies operating in the downtown core, most of them are invisible to the average passer by. Victoria's waters are home to three resident pods of orca whales, totaling over 80 mammals. There are 63 km of marked, buffered and signed bike lanes and trails in the bike network and is considered Canada’s cycling capital. TripAdvisor currently has reviews of 1,107 Victoria restaurants. Victoria has the highest vegetarian food sales per capita in North America

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BARD & BANKER PUB 125 words + Image

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remarkable restoration of a century old bank, the Bard and Banker boasts a fun, friendly and warm atmosphere. Whether you’re looking for a wee whisky, or a proper pour, the Bard offers up not only an award winning scotch selection, but also 30 draughts—more than half of which are local. With excellent pub fare and service to match, you’re sure to find unparalleled hospitality here. Proudly Victorian, the Bard also offers free, live and local music seven nights a week. So come relax in your own snug, or get up on the stage and dance. A taste of Victoria awaits. 1022 Government St, Victoria, BC (250) 953-9993 www.bardandbanker.com

Take The Pickle Pub Crawl

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BLUE CRAB SEAFOOD HOUSE 125 words + Image

he Blue Crab Seafood House has earned a reputation for excellence in seafood & West Coast Cuisine. In Summer 2015 the culinary team are pleased to present small plates featuring fan favourites such as “Scallops & House Smoked Bacon, Crab Risotto & King Crab ” Cozy up on couches & share a few with friends on our outdoor patio overlooking Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Quench your thirst with jugs of white sangria & make sure to leave enough room for our Mason Jar Cake. Check out bluecrab.ca for some exciting news! A brand new boardwalk patio with an exclusive menu is coming soon. Casual seafood features & patio cocktails are enhanced by our seaside view, and are great for taking on-the-go as you stroll around our Inner Harbour. 146 Kingston St., Victoria, BC (250) 480-1999 www.bluecrab.ca

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When was the last time you went on a pub crawl? When was the last time you explored Victoria’s inner harbour? If the answer isn’t fresh in your memory, may I suggest hoping aboard Victoria Harbour Ferry’s Pickle Pub Crawl? While it may have a bizarre name (folks often refer to the green and yellow boats as pickles), the Pickle Pub Crawl has all the elements for a party on the water. Logistically, it’s dead simple. Buy a ticket, hop on a boat, and arrive at a patio ready to drink. After 25 years in business, Harbour Ferry owner Barry Hobbis didn’t know if his boats had anything new to offer. “Maybe we have nowhere to go with our market?” he wondered. “This has just sprung up and become quite iconic.” He credits a Camosun business student with the original idea. Back in 2012, the student mentioned to Hobbis that the boats didn’t appeal to a younger generation. He challenged her to find a solution. The first year saw 300 passengers enjoy the crawl. Enough to break even. “In 2013, we did 3000 people. The third year—last year—we did 6,500 people. All of a sudden, it started to take on a life of its own. We were thrilled with the fact that we now had a different type of attraction in the harbour,” says Hobbis. According to Victoria Harbour Ferry, the Pickle Pub Crawl is the only pub crawl on the water. The crawl works with local restaurants and pubs. This year, 12 venues are on the docket: Blue Crab at the Coast, Belleville’s Watering Hole, Steamship Grill, Veranda at the Empress, Irish Times, Bard and Banker, Canoe Brewpub, Lure at the Delta, Swan’s Brewpub, Strathcona, Lido Bistro, and the Grand Pacific Hotel. Tickets cost $20 Friday and Saturday and $15 the remainder of the week. It’s possible to hit up all 12 venues as boats run from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Every group of four receives a free appetizer at each venue. Large groups are encouraged, and Hobbis has seen everything from fiftieth reunions to grandparent associations partake. He cautions that some preplanning is involved. “We think this year we will go well over 10,000 guests.” Groups over ten must reserve a boat and make special arrangements with the venues. “The success has been almost overwhelming. It just shows you that if you sit still, nothing will happen. This is a result of reaching out to students and paying attention to what they said. As long as failure isn’t an obstacle, you get a chance to try new things,” says Hobbis. “It’s been a hoot.” BY KAITLYN ROSENBURG For more information, visit www.victoriaharbourferry.com


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Events

Your guide to the best things to do. 4 May 10… Mother’s Day 13… Gold Rush Kick-Off at Royal BC Museum Witness this fascinating era of history come to life again with Gold Rush! El Dorado in BC. royalbcmuseum.bc.ca/goldrush

18… Victoria Day Parade islandfarms.com/event/victoria-island-farms-victoria-dayparade

23-25… Swiftsure International Yacht Race Premier long distance sailing race in the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia area. Starting and ending in Victoria the Swiftsure is international because the midpoint markers are in U.S. waters. The race is most popular with sailors from British Columbia and Washington, but it has drawn boats from as far away as California, Hawaii, New Zealand, and even Russia. www.swiftsure.org

25-31… Bike To Work Week biketowork.ca/victoria

4 June 5-7… Victoria International Cycling Festival Victoria’s biggest bike race is moving to the Inner Harbour – as the annual Robert Cameron Law Cycling Series p/b PISE, June 5 to 7, 2015 is making a few fastpaced, electrifying changes, including a bold move to race around the BC Legislative Buildings. victoriainternationalcyclingfestival.com

7… UrbaCity Challenge The UrbaCity Challenge, billed as Victoria’s own urban adventure race, is laced up and ready to hit the downtown streets for its fifth year. Even if you’ve never heard of it, you might have seen it: teams wearing wild costumes and big smiles race through downtown Victoria. Local businesses host unique challenges for competitors, where brain power, as well as brawn, wins the day. urbacitychallenge.ca

19-21… Aboriginal Cultural Festival A three day celebration of Aboriginal peoples, arts, and culture. www.aboriginalbc.com

19-28… Victoria International Jazz Fest JazzFest International presents all genres of jazz, blues & worldbeat music. It has grown into a 10 day festival that attracts over 300 musicians & is attended by over 35,000 people from Greater Victoria, Vancouver Island & around the world. jazzvictoria.ca/jazz

21… Father’s Day

STEAMSHIP GRILL AND BAR

Fresh, local cuisine and a beautiful view make this a top spot for outdoor dining on the harbour here do you find year round outdoor dining every day on Victoria’s inner harbour? At Victoria’s premiere waterfront seafood restaurant, Steamship Grill and Bar in The Steamship terminal on Belleville street. Says general manager Steve Baert, “we knew this was going to be Victoria’s prime new waterfront location and we had to find a way to share the beautiful harbor view every day, that was the challenge”. The challenge took the leadership team search to Germany and a search for an umbrella solution that would keep guests covered and warm on all but the coldest and windiest days. “We found the solution that’s for sure “says Baert. “They are certainly unique to Victoria. Each umbrella comes with heating, lighting and sound options. They fully cover 85 of our 120 patio seats every day. “But we are much more than a pretty view” laughs Baert. “We are pretty darn proud or our food team and what they bring to the table every night” Steamship’s culinary team is lead by Jim Romer, Nathan Tymchuk and Mike Andrews. “Keeping it fresh and local is the key to quality” says Romer. “We are focused on premium northwest seafood in our cuisine so what better place to be than Victoria “ says Tymchuk. “The local farms and cheeses are a further backdrop to keeping it fresh and local”. Chef Mike Andrews is especially proud of Steamship Grill and Bars commitment to using Canadian Prime steaks. “It’s a grade well above the well known steakhouses” says Andrews. “Better marbling, better flavour. Its a statement of what we are about, no compromise, the best”. Steamship is open for lunch, brunch, dinner from 11 daily and the patio is open all day. Visit steamshipgrill.com for more details or call 250–383-8300. For reservations or group information email steve@xtramile.ca. “Come see us tonight” says Baert. “Its warm outside and we have your table waiting”. 470 Belleville St, Victoria, BC (778) 433-6736

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4 July

4 August

1… Canada Day

2… Victoria Symphony Splash

3… Ska & Raggae Festival

From a floating stage in the Inner Harbour, Maestra Tania Miller, the Symphony and special guests will perform, ending with a grand finale performance of Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture – with fireworks of course! victoriasymphony.ca

Hosted at various locations around downtown victoriaskafest.ca

17-26… Victoria International Busker’s Festival Professional street performers from our region as well as from across Canada, Europe, Sweden, Australia, South America and the US. http://victoriabuskers.com

16-19… Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food & Wine Taste uncorks Thursday July 16, 2015 with an evening tasting of more than 100 British Columbia wines and local cuisine prepared by top Vancouver Island chefs. htwww.victoriataste.com

14-16… Victoria Dragonboat Festival The only dragon boat festival in Canada to take place in a working harbour. avictoriadragonboat.com

21-31… Victoria Fringe Festival 11 days of uncensored, untamed and uncut live comedy, drama, dance, magic, music, spoken word, and physical theatre this summer. victoriafringe.com —Courtesy of Tourism Victoria

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STICKY WICKET PUB 125 words + Image

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he Sticky Wicket Pub is a Victoria landmark and multi-leveled Victorian era pub and restaurant featuring international, craft, micro, and domestic beers. Offering West coast dining, traditional pub fare with an inspired twist, cocktails, and late night entertainment. Dishes are original and created from scratch, using quality local products as well as fresh Ocean Wise seafood and Canadian Angus beef. Our venues boast multiple large-screen plasma TV’s for great viewing of your favourite sports, whatever the occasion. For your corporate event let’s start with Roofsand Volleyball at the Rooftop Surfclub! Eight venues on one block, Victoria’s Entertainment Center: this is where your tour of Victoria starts! 919 Douglas Street, Victoria BC, (250) 383-7137, www.strathconahotel.com

Chefs’ Choice Top 10 Foodie Picks

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ining out in Victoria has never been better. There’s plenty of choice both in both the ambience and the style of cooking. In this issue EAT looks at dining out options in the inner harbour neighbourhood. From sophisticating dining rooms to lively pubs the Harbour Hub has it all. Here are our top foodie picks

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Chef: Marc Lagimodiere Signature Dish: The Kulwinder (two house made lamb and goat cheese samosas topped with two poached eggs, traditional tikka masala sauce and pineapple chutney, raita and cilantro). The Kulwinder best represents Belleville’s comfort diner food style with a twist encompasses their fun, breakfast fare.

THE VERANDA AT THE EMPRESS HOTEL

he Irish Times is your downtown neighbourhood pub with a friendly casual environment where people of all ages can enjoy relaxed dining, perfect pints and Live Music 7 Nights a Week. The traditions of Ireland are felt through the Irish food and drink that are both contemporary and unique, showcasing Irish Pub food as you would see in Ireland today. The Irish Times proudly offers 33 import and domestic beers plus 4 ciders on tap. Nominated as one of the 10 best Irish Pubs outside of Ireland, the Irish Times offers the authentic experience right here in downtown Victoria. 1200 Government St, Victoria, BC (250) 383-7775 www.irishtimespub.ca

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Chef: Morgan Wilson Signature Dish: The Veranda Honey Truffle Popcorn The Fairmont Empress Honeybees are back! For the 3rd Season the Fairmont Empress is home to ten honeybee colonies and one observation hive. Truffled Empress Honey Popcorn brings our authentically local culinary philosophy to The Veranda. In partnership Hoyne Brewing Company a local micro brewery makes Summer Haze Honey Hefe also made with Empress Honey the perfect pairing.

THE PACIFIC RESTAURANT AT THE HOTEL GRAND PACIFIC Chef: Takumi Kitamura Signature Dish: Salmon-Cyazuke with Yaki-onigiri, Julienne Nori, Fresh Wasabi, Mizuna, Pickled Vegetables, Tea Infused Dashi Broth Chef Takumi’s take on a traditional Japanese dish known as Ochazuke. This dish comes together tableside by pouring dashi broth infused with freshly brewed green tea over cooked rice and Wild Pacific Salmon. The dish is accompanied with julienne nori, fresh wasabi and pickled vegetables.


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STEAMSHIP GRILL AND BAR Chef: Mike Andrews Signature Dish: Seafood Mixed Grill Classic combination of local seafood, inspired by the west coast to entice all palates. Great flavour, simple combinations, perfect for a sunny day on the inner harbour.

LURE RESTAURANT & BAR 125 words words ++ Image Image 125

BARD & BANKER PUB Chef: Richard Luttman Signature Dish: House-made Vodka & Citrus Cured Spring Salmon with Lemon, Orange and Dill. Served with avocado crème fraiche with a shot of lime & Crust Bakery’s brioche toast. This is the quintessential west coast salmon dish-simple, light, clean, bright flavours… perfect for a summer day.

BLUE CRAB SEAFOOD HOUSE Chef: Greg Goodine Signature Dish: Blue Crab Signature Fish Bowl This is a Gluten friendly local favourite - market fresh fish, Thai coconut curry broth, rice noodles

STICKY WICKET PUB Chef: Peter Debruyn Signature Dish: Steak Fajitas Angus sirloin, bell peppers, onions, shredded cheese, sour cream, tomato salsa, guacamole, flour tortillas. Sizzling with flavour... just in time for Summer!

IRISH TIMES PUB Chef: Will Willgress Signature Dish: Salad Nicoise Local albacore tuna poached in olive oil with lemon and dill served with a butter lettuce salad, roasted tomato, new potato, green beans, nicoise olives and capers with a perfectly cooked egg. Although there are varying ideas as to what a traditional version of this classic contains ours is a variation that expresses our interests of locally produced and sustainable food products.

ummer in Victoria is the perfect opportunity to visit Victoria's Hottest Patio at LURE Restaurant & Bar! Work on your tan while you relax on our sun-soaked patio with comfy couches, a fire pit and breath-taking harbour views that you won't see anywhere else. Share a pitcher of our crafted cocktails like the Cocojito or Summer Squeeze White Sangira. Indulge in our mouth-watering Maple Bourbon Pork Ribs, slow roasted and tossed in a sticky, yummy bourbon glaze. Finish it off with our homemade brown butter cocoa-nib ice cream sandwich with a whisky caramel sauce & sweet pickled cherries - this you won't be sharing with your friends! Summer in Victoria - where tan lines are sexy...and so is our patio! 100 Harbour Road, Victoria, BC (250)360-5873, www.lurevictoria.com

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LURE RESTAURANT & BAR Chef: Dan Bain Signature Dish: Maple Bourbon Pork Ribs Melt in your mouth, fall off the bone, sticky and delicious. They are Brined, Rubbed, Smoked, and Slow Roasted for 5 hours, then tossed in a Maple Bourbon Glaze and served hot

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SWAN’S BREWPUB Chef: Jason McMillan Signature Dish: In-house hickory smoked chicken breast right out of the smoker in the Swans kitchen comes the Brewpub Club; hand-crafted comfort food served in the form of a sandwich. Complimented by crisp bacon it is not just a coincidence that this is a best seller. Add cheddar cheese, crunchy lettuce, juicy tomato and a sun-dried tomato aioli all on a ciabatta bun for the final touches on an immediate classic. Our Brewmaster Andrew Tessier would quickly suggest the perfect pairing with Swans Pandora Pale Ale.

LIDO WATERFRONT BAR & BISTRO Chef: Jamie Geldart Signature Dish: Artisan Pizza Clearly pizzas aren’t a unique dish, but everyone’s pizzas are different and we believe ours to be some of the best. Jamie and his team make fresh Sicilian dough at least twice a day and once it is hand rolled, they top it with fresh local ingredients and sauces made from scratch. Even the Pesto for the Prawn Pizzas is made in house with fresh sweet basil leaves and crushed cashews. Oblong in shape, and served on a warm tile, they are always slightly different and certainly a signature.

wans Hotel has 30 beautifully appointed condo style suites including a spectacular 3 story rooftop Penthouse. Swans also features a Brewpub, a favorite with locals since 1989 - “Honest beer brewed here”. Visitors can also enjoy live music 7 nights a week with no cover charge. The brewpub offers 9 of their signature award winning beers on tap as well as a seasonal brew. You can also find Swans beer in our Beer & Wine Store located right next to Swans Hotel on Pandora Ave. This vibrant hotel and brewpub is proudly owned by the University of Victoria. 506 Pandora Ave, Victoria, BC (250) 361-3310 www.swanshotel.com

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Make your Wellness a Priority Take Care of your Dental Health Visit Dr. Frank Van Gyn for all your General Dentistry needs

Dr. Frank Van Gyn

Schedule an appointment with our team today! 1 1.250.385.6552 .250.385.6552

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EAT MAGAZINE MAY | JUNE 2015


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Fernwood Bites

Join EAT Magazine at this popular urban tasting festival and celebrate the vibrant creativity of a much-loved neighbourhood. Stop by the EAT table and say hello. By Gillie Easdon

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ow in its sixth year, Fernwood Bites has become an intimate celebration of food, drink, art and music in the name of the inclusive and proactive neighbourhood that is Fernwood. “It is a phenomenal event,” shares Jed Grieve of Cook Culture, in its second year as premiere sponsor. “Cook Culture feels connected to Fernwood.” He lists Khalil Akhtar, Cosmo Means and Mike Williams as a few of the cooks and chefs who will be onsite during the Sunday evening, June 21, event in Fernwood Square “I had just started managing Cornerstone Café last year when Fernwood Bites came up. I just jumped right in. It was great,” says manager Thom McCann with a laugh as he remembers 2014. As for this year, “We have just started doing pork and beef meatballs and also pizzas with Fernwood-only bicycle pizza delivery, so I am thrilled to share them at Fernwood Bites.” “It feels like down-home real,” smiles Mark Wachtin of Storied Wine & Spirits, who grew up with hippie folks in Fernwood. He is bringing a selection of wine and cider from small, sustainable producers that support Fernwood restaurants Ca Va, Fernwood Inn and Stage Wine Bar, including Unsworth, Eau Vivre, Tod Creek Craft Cider, Glenterra and Lock & Worth. Everyone I spoke to expressed an excited and clear enthusiasm for Fernwood Bites as a most mellow, delicious and welcoming event. Then I connect with Jason McIsaac of Sheringham Distillery in Shirley (52 kms outside Victoria). Fernwood Bites will be the maiden voyage for Jason and Alayne McIsaac’s vodka and their Williams Lake grain spirit. McIsaac has been a chef for 20 years and has attended many events and festivals. “Fernwood Bites is not too big, nice vibe, run really tight and short and sweet. We are so proud that this will be the first venue for Sheringham.” Their vodka is made from B.C.

organic white wheat, B.C. malted barley and water from the on-site natural spring. The Williams Lake grain spirit is a double-distilled grain spirit sourced from the Island and other parts of the province. Fernwood NRG volunteer coordinator Mila Czemerys informs me that the evening will take place in Fernwood Square again this year but will seek to extend down Gladstone for a slightly larger event. Local artists are invited to participate by showing their art, with a 50/50 split with NRG (which stands for Neighbourhood Resource Group), the community’s non-profit organization. “This is my fourth year coordinating this. Fernwood Bites has a European, ‘meet your neighbours’ feel and you can taste everything.” She also reminds me that Cornerstone Café is one of NRG’s many successful endeavours. What strikes me as entertaining but deeply endearing is that only one of the people cited above actually lives in Fernwood. Yet they all unequivocally share a tender spot and ardent connection with this neighbourhood. A deep success has grown out of this affinity for a neighbourhood that is doing great things within the community while benefiting all of Victoria. I am looking forward to Fernwood Bites, though a bit sheepish, as I pull up the neighbourhood boundaries map on my computer and realize I, too, am four blocks out. Close enough. See you there. Sunday, June 21, 5:30 to 8 p.m., Fernwood Square, Gla dstone Ave. and Fernwood Rd. All proceeds support Fernwood NRG’s work to provide affordable housing, childcare, family support services, recreation, food security projects and arts and culture for Fernwood residents. This is a 19+ event. Tickets, $55, available at fernwoodnrg.ca.

LEAVE ROOM FOR THE WICK Meals are like the punctuation marks of a great trip. They give shape to the narrative of your adventure. We encourage you to explore Tofino and then come visit us at the Wickaninnish Inn to enjoy fresh baked pastries in the morning, a lovingly prepared picnic lunch, or a dinner at The Pointe Restaurant that will put an exclamation point on your time here. @TasteWickInnBC

The Pointe Restaurant 250.725.3106

tel 1.800.333.4604

www.wickinn.com

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THE LOCAL LIST EAT’s where to find it guide

EAT Magazine is available thanks to the support of our advertisers. Please support them whenever you can

DUNCAN HUDSON’S ON FIRST

THE APPLE BOX

Award winning dining in a beautifully restored heritage home. Local ingredients, classic techniques and made from scratch cooking are a just few reasons to visit us in Duncan more often. Celebrate Bubbles & Brunch, Lunch and Dinner. 163 First St. Duncan, BC 250-597-0066 www.hudsonsonfirst.ca

Frozen Meals with a Local Emphasis - The Apple Box' Seasonal Menu or Food Box consists of Frozen Dinners, Appetizers & Desserts made with Local hormone free pasture raised meats, local produce & organic ingredients. Available In Store 1725 Cook St, Victoria, BC www.theapplebox.ca 250-590-6257

THE COMMUNITY FARM STORE The Community Farm Store, organic health and whole food market in Duncan. Open 7 days per week. 10,0000 square feet of planet friendly market style shopping … with heart. No GMO’s! Good for you, good for the planet. 5380 Trans Canada Hwy, Duncan, BC 250-748-6227 www.communityfarmstore.ca

DUNCAN GARAGE CAFE & BAKERY A community favourite! The best food, coffee, smoothies and baking in town. Buzzing with interesting people, vibrant staff and a funky vibe. Always healthy, fresh, creative and home-made. Great food using great ingredients!! 330 Duncan Street, Duncan, BC 250.748.6223

Vegetarian & Gluten Wise Options

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MEALS TO GO

SPECIALTY SHOPS FIG DELICATESSEN Welcome and thank you for supporting us through our first year at our new location. Come in and enjoy an adventure of middle Eastern Cuisine. We cater to theMediterranean soul. Shop for ingredients, dine at the deli or take home to eat at home. 1551 Cedar Hill Road (south side between Cedar Hill Crossroad and Shelbourne), Victoria, BC 250-727-3632 info@figdeli.ca


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SALT SPRING ISLAND FERNWOOD ROAD CAFE A funky little cafe with an incredible view, great coffee and lots of home baking – for breakfast, lunch and dessert. Come and enjoy the water view. Starting in May we’re open Friday nights from 6-8pm for tunes and treats. 325 Fernwood Road (just across from the Fernwood dock, north end) Salt Spring Island, BC, V8K 1C3 250-931-2233, www.fernwoodcafe.com

HASTINGS HOUSE Dining Room Voted the World’s Best Romantic Hotel in 2014, "Hastings House offers both Fine and Casual dining in either the main dining room or in our newly designed Bistro. Both menus are inspired by award winning chef Marcel Kauer using the freshest of local ingredients" www.hastingshouse.com 1-800-661-9255 160 Upper Ganges Road, Salt Spring Island

VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET RAVENSTONE FARM ARTISAN MEATS We produce a wide variety of hand crafted meat products made in small batches from locally sourced ingredients. Stop in at our Victoria Public Market shop to browse our selection of fresh sausages, pasture raised meats and smoked deli cuts or enjoy one of our delicious deli sandwiches. 1701 Douglas St, Victoria, BC Monday to Friday 10:00am to 7:30pm Saturday 10:00am to 5:30pm Sunday 11am to 5:00pm

MATTICK’S FARM ADRIENNE’S RESTAURANT & TEA GARDEN Enjoy our house made Eggs Benedict, Seafood Chowder, German Apple Strudel and High Tea. Visit us and enter to win Adrienne's Mother's Day and Father's Day Gift Bag. We are open daily for Breakfast, Lunch and Afternoon Tea. 5325 Cordova Bay Road, Victoria, BC 250-658-1535

CRAFT WINERIES ROCKY CREEK WINERY Pure sustainable Vancouver Island craft wines. True to the region 100% locally grown. Taste our 10 years of passion from Cowichan’s most awarded winemaker and leave saying “WOW”. Enjoy your picnic with a flight of wines, a glass or the bottle. 1854 Myhrest Rd, Cowichan Bay, BC 250-748-5622 www.rockycreekwinery.ca

FARM & DINE

THE ROOST FARM BAKERY & WINERY BISTRO The Roost passionately grows its own food and wine on 10 acres for a true Saanich Peninsula farm to table experience. A food destination like no other. 9100 East Saanich Road, North Saanich, BC 250.655.0075 www.RoostFarmCentre.com

WHISK Whisk at the Victoria Public Market, carries the full spectrum of Fiestaware colours. Visit us and see our great selection of linens, Le Creuset cookware and gadgets. Bridal and gift registry available. Now open Mondays. The Hudson Building, 1701 Douglas St. Victoria, BC 778 433 2787

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g VINCABULARY By Treve Ring

Gamay {GAM-MAY} #GoGamayGo. A rallying collective for a misunderstood red grape, this hashtag has united gamay fans globally. Gamay is much more than the marketing gimmickry of Beaujolais Nouveau and the cheap & cheerful “new wine” paraded around each fall. The characterful, humble gamay grape is the darling light red of many sommeliers and vintners thanks to its fresh acidity, fragrant fruitiness, fine tannins and lissom structure. Its full name, Gamay Noir à jus Blanc, reflects that its skin is black, its juice is white, but the wine produced is a light bodied red. The grape first appeared in Burgundy in the mid 14th century, and was reported to bring relief to local growers after the bleakness of the Black Death. Gamay ripened earlier, yielded higher and was easier to cultivate than finicky pinot noir. Unfortunately, it wasn’t seen as refined as pinot, so in an act to raise the prestige of his region, Duke Philip the Bold banned the grape. Gamay took hold further south in Beaujolais, as well as to the north, in the Loire Valley, where it continues to thrive in its characterful way today.

P PER E R FEC FECT D O U B BLL E CU C U E RVO R V O M A RGA R G A R ITA I TA freessh hannd s ee ed fr shhaakken w

e e se er e wwh ess annd ser ed e r kkss

CRISP

APERTIF

Bella Wines 2013 Sparkling Rosé Westbank West Kelowna, Okanagan Valley, BC *$24 +89607 This certified organic vineyard is at the foot of Boucherie Mountain and on ancient volcanic soils. The stoniness comes through in this dry, racy rosé bubble, alongside assertive raspberry, strawberry and peppery rhubarb leaf. Juicy, tart and crisp. 88 points.

Jean Maupertuis 2013 Pink Bulles Auvergne, France *$31 +576215 This pétillant natural rosé is from the little known Auvergne region in the centre of France. 50+ year old vines are turned into the palest pink orange hue, with very fine, delicate bubbles, quiet stony strawberries, mineral and subtle thorny floral notes. Crisp and bright with strawberry laced residual sugar balanced by a rush of acidity. 88 points.

STONY Orofino Vineyards 2013 Gamay Celentano Vineyard Similkameen Valley, BC *$23 From sloping stemwinder soils in the Similkameen comes this savoury, fresh red, laced with cured meats, wild strawberry, a swipe of stony minerality and an alluring bitter cherry note on the finish. Tart and earthy rhubarb acidity carries finely spiced tannins through a lingering finish. 91 points.

EXPRESSIVE Jean-Paul Brun 2012 Terres Dorées l'Ancien Beaujolais AC Beaujolais, France $25 +681569 From vines 50-80 years old, this opens with potent white and black pepper and fine rasped fragrant cloves. Bright cherry, dried sage, raspberry and sea salt continue on the juicy palate. Lifted pink grapefruit acidity carries wild berry spices across fine grained, structured tannins and through the lengthy finish. 90 points

CHARMING Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf 2013 La Butte AC Touriane, Loire Valley, France *27 + 061028 From biodynamic vines on the forestsurrounded estate Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf, this charms with welcoming perfumed red currant, raspberry and fine white pepper. The light bodied palate of tart cranberry, perfumed tayberry and youthful cherry is carried with lissom, fine grained tannin. 88 points.

REFINED Mathieu & Camille Lapierre 2012 Morgon AC Morgon, Beaujolais, France $40 +141366 Carrying on in his famous father’s footsteps, Mathieu confidently, quietly continues to inspire with his natural winemaking. Beauty texture, brightness and delicacy of fruit, overtop of savoury, earthy, herbal, black cherry and black licorice. Built for the future. 91 points.

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.

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g A BEER AND A BITE By Colin Hynes

E AT M a g a z i n e a n d T h e Le f t C o a s t p re s e n t :

SESSION LAGER - Moon Brewery with Spicy Bean Sandwich

A dinner series about collaboration on the West Coast. Each month a new chef, mixologist or brewmaster from a nearby community is paired with a talented local host, delivering a truly unique dining experience on the third Sunday of each month. APRIL 19TH

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Chef Lisa Ahier | Tofino Chef Ali Ryan | Victoria

'Portland Cocktails' MAY 17TH

Jordan Felix | Portland Multnomah Whisk{e}y Library

Shawn Soole | Victoria OLO 7:00 PM - 10:00 PM

'Brewmasters BBQ - Fathers Day' JUNE 21ST

Colin Hynes

The Beer: The Beer: Session Lager - Moon Brewery. (Victoria BC) This beer screams summer, more than any other beer on the market today. It’s light, and easy drinking at only 4.2%, which means you can sit on the beach/deck/grass at your favourite bonfire/barbecue/music festival and enjoy the whole pack without getting too inebriated. Moon Brewery’s Light Side of the Moon Session Lager is made with a percentage of rice malts to keep the beer drinkable, but with a bit of a hoplike tang. It’s also finished with sweet orange peels adding a delightful, light citrus flavour. Clay and Chelsea have really made a perfect summer beer. ABV: 4.2% 4 x 473ml cans moonunderwater.ca

The Bite: Spicy Bean Sandwich One of those sandwiches that is so insanely delicious you don’t want to make it all the time. What? Yeah, that’s right; it’s so good, it should be a treat. The Spicy Bean Sandwich is made by softening thinly sliced onions in the bottom of a pot, then adding black beans and vegetable broth and reducing. After most of the broth has sufficiently been boiled off, mash it up with a potato masher. Put the spread on a ciabatta bun and layer up avocado, sprouts, and tomato, or any other favourite sandwich toppings. Finish it off with a spicy sauce— chipotle or jalapeno are favourites here at EAT.

The Conclusion: The Light Side of the Moon is so smooth and light that it counterbalances the bean mash (with its heavier tendencies) incredibly well. This duo fills the void for a spicy meal and a cool drink on a blazing hot day in the middle of June. E

Four Winds Brewing | Vancouver Category 12 Brewing | Victoria Hank's Untraditional BBQ | Victoria venue to be announced 6:00 PM - 9:30 PM

HOUSEGUEST

HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY

HAPPY HOUR

Third Sunday | Each and Every Month | 3:00 PM - 5:00 PM The Roger’s Suite at the Inn at Laurel Point

Join us for a meet and greet with our featured Houseguest, inspired snacks by Aura, and tastings of local craft beverages.

farupscott real estate

Tickets and information for all events at: ontheleftcoast.com www.eatmagazine.ca MAY | JUNE 2015

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g TERROIR

By Michaela Morris

The Australia You Don’t Know Welcome to the new wines Down Under.

WINE AUSTRALIA EDUCATOR MARK DAVIDSON IS THE FIRST TO ADMIT THAT wine drinkers may have become bored with Aussie wine. He is also quick to identify the cause: Australia over-emphasized the cheap and cheerful end of the wine spectrum—Yellow Tail, Little Penguin and other wines of this ilk. While these wines are strong on marketing and offer a consistent commercial style, they are generic brands with no sense of place. It’s not surprising that savvy drinkers got weary. Variety is the spice of life. Slowly people started turning away from Aussie wine and sales inevitably declined. Defeated? Absolutely not! Australia is back with a vengeance. The first strategy in Australia’s comeback has been to shift the focus to regionally specific wine at a slightly higher price point. Australia is a massive country with a diversity of soils and microclimates. Different grapes thrive in different regions and the same grape can alter its expression depending on where it is grown. So if you don’t know Barossa Valley from Strathbogie Ranges, get thee to a liquor store. A quick comparison of the two demonstrates that there is not just one single articulation of Shiraz. From the richly fruited, mouth-coating examples from the warmer reaches of Barossa and McLaren Vale to the more medium-weight, restrained versions from cooler climates like Strathbogie Ranges, Adelaide Hills and Yarra Valley, the range is actually quite extensive. And you can forget about Australia crafting solely big reds. Brave winemakers have risen to the challenge of Pinot Noir. This truly finicky grape abhors the heat and thrives in areas that offer a big difference between day and nighttime temperatures. Regions that satisfy Pinot’s exacting demands include Adelaide Hills and, the coolest of the cool, the island of Tasmania. The area around Melbourne in Victoria is another sweet spot. Look for the regions of Geelong, Macedon Ranges, Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley. George Samios, global PR director for Treasury Wine Estates, explains that Pinot Noir “is not a modern variety for Australia. It’s been around for quite a while, but what has become modern is the way we are treating it.” He is referring to selecting appropriate sites (the coolest pockets and planting at higher altitudes) as well as picking it at the right time and using less wood. The learning curve has been steep, but “Australia’s Pinots are lighter and fresher than they were 10 years ago,” asserts Mark Davidson. Believe it or not, freshness is now the key word for Australia’s white whites. No wines demonstrate this more brilliantly than the dry Rieslings from Clare and Eden Valley. These immensely refreshing wines are distinct in style, assertive and intensely aromatic with mouth-watering acidity and tons of succulent lime notes. Did I mention they’re dry? This freshness is equally apparent in the new Chardonnays. Once over-oaked, fat, rich and frankly tiring, Aussie Chardonnay has morphed. Today there is a parade of restrained, balanced Chards. David LeMire MW, global sales and marketing for Shaw & Smith, speaks on behalf of his Aussie colleagues: “Now we’re embracing a fresher more vibrant style of Chardonnay that you can enjoy young with some bracing acidity but can age as well.” How is this achieved? Producers are growing Chardonnay in cooler spots, picking grapes a bit earlier, using less new oak, choosing French over American oak and employing malolactic fermentation sparingly. This approach has been adopted right across the country from Margaret River in Western Australia to Adelaide Hills in South Australia and Yarra Valley in Victoria. These are some of the most exciting offerings currently coming out of Australia. One of the charms of Australian wines is that they are immediately gratifying. Don’t be fooled though; many possess the substance to stand the test of time. Red grapes Shiraz (aka Syrah) and Cabernet Sauvignon have a well-known ability to age, and Australian examples are no exception. Perhaps more of a surprise is the equally ageworthy whites. I’ve had the pleasure of trying Riesling, Marsanne and Semillon with 10 and even 20 years of age. Still lively and vibrant, they become more intriguing with

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time. The real clincher is that many of these wines retail for less than $30 upon release. So, if you think you need to invest a fortune to start a cellar, think again. The next prong in Australia’s tantalizing attack is the spate of lesser-known grapes showing up on labels. They’ve appropriated varieties from all over Europe and no country is safe from their plundering. Grüner Veltliner from Austria, Touriga from Portugal, Montepulciano from Italy, Savagnin from France and Tempranillo from Spain represent just some of the loot. Watch for these as they are just starting to trickle into BC. Why all these “new” varieties? Surely, it speaks to Australia’s innovative spirit. Producers are lucky in that they aren’t shackled by strict regulations about what they can grow. Yet plantings haven’t been haphazard. They are transplanting European grapes into similar climates in Australia. David LeMire is a believer. “There is this whole world of Italian and Spanish varieties that have got a lot of potential in our sites. It is relatively early, but we are seeing great results.” Italy is well represented with the likes of Vermentino, Fiano, Arneis, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Barbera. And despite my skepticism about wines made from these grapes outside their homeland, I think if anyone can do it, the Aussies can. Winemakers have also noted a change in Australia’s tastes. Winemaker Steven Worley is convinced that “imports have invigorated Aussie drinkers and their palates have evolved.” People are seeking more savoury, less fruit-forward wines. Mark Saturno, owner of Longview Vineyard agrees. He references the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy, Australia’s most coveted wine award. While it has always gone to a big bold red since its inception in 1962, last year it was awarded to Yabby Lake’s Block 1 Pinot Noir and this year it went to a cooler climate Syrah from Adelaide Hills. “It shows the changing palate of Australia,” proclaims Saturno. So here’s my full confessional. I have a decidedly European palate. After trying the latest, though, Australia has my attention. E

REVIEWS n/v Jansz, Premium Cuvée, Tasmania $30-34 (SKU# 589341) From the cool reaches of Tasmania, this top-notch sparkler blends Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Flavours of ripe apple, pear, lemon, red currants and scone are supported by a lively, delectable mousse. Bring on the smoked salmon.

Whites 2014 McGuigan, Bin Series No. 9000, Semillon, Hunter Valley $19-22* Super-fresh, juicy and dominated by lemon and lime at the moment. Put a couple of bottles away for a decade or so to enjoy all of those intriguing toast and honey notes that will develop. If you can’t wait, drink it now with scallop ceviche. 2010 Tahbilk, Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes $20-23 (SKU# 559716) A staple in our market, but a must-try if you haven’t yet. Subtle floral, honeysuckle aromas with a creamy palate balanced by refreshing acidity. A proven value ager. 2013 Bethany, Riesling, Eden Valley $31-34* Vibrant, piercing and precise aromas and flavours of lime marmalade, apple blossom, wet stone and a pleasant pithiness. Perfect for spicy spot prawns. 2013 Shaw + Smith, ‘M3’ Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills $55-60* Lemon peel, subtle nuts and lees on a lovely texture. Lively yet restrained and elegant, this is fantastically balanced. Dungeness crab with melted butter is a must.

Reds 2012 Fowles, ‘Are You Game?’ Shiraz, Victoria $24-27 (SKU# 468132) An excellent example of cool climate Shiraz. Sexy, silky black cherry, pepper and coffee with an underlying savouriness from a dash of Tempranillo. Go gamey and have a venison steak or a bison burger. 2012 Heemskerk, ‘Abel’s Tempest’ Pinot Noir, Tasmania $33-42* Strawberry, cherry and abundant clove and cinnamon spice with a touch of vanilla. Pure fruit that is just fleshly enough to keep it friendly. Chill slightly and serve with barbecue pork or chicken. 2012 Curly Flat, Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges $58-63 (SKU# 956961) Light on its feet and truly elegant but still has plenty of depth. Bright red berries and fragrant flowers are offset by an appealing earthiness. This calls for duck or something mushroomy. *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.

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g WHAT TO DRINK WITH THAT —By Treve Ring Pairing suggestions from the pros.

Eat Spanish Tonight

above: Bacaloa: a fish stew made with dried cod, tomatoes, onions and red peppers

Pork Shoulder, Chorizo and Olive Stew JB. Although I am Peruvian, my mother cooked a lot of Spanish food when I was growing up. At home we would often drink Rioja, which is what I would recommend for this dish. I would look for a younger, medium bodied version with bright, juicy acidity to cut through the fat in the pork and not get lost in the acidity of the tomatoes. ST. This is a full flavoured dish with spice that requires a wine with enough body and substance to hold its own. Paprika and chorizo can be a tricky match as a wine with too much alcohol will accentuate the heat. A Navarra rosé has moderate alcohol and a savoury character that will pair nicely. Or look to Cru Beaujolais, a criminally underappreciated region and wine style. The acidity of gamay and complexity of flavours in the glass will work well with the spice and savoury qualities of the pork shoulder. A wine from Morgon will do nicely.

Bacalao JB. If you can find one, a barrel-fermented godello would be my first choice. I love how the flavours of wood spice, found in lightly oaked or barrel-fermented Spanish white wines, work with salty garlic, tomato and peppers. A good godello has a beautiful mouth-filling richness that can stand up the weight of the cod and has enough acid to balance out the oiliness of the fish. A verdejo would also work here. ST. Albariño from Rias Baixas in the north west of Spain is required. These complex whites have the acidity, body and flavour to match and a saline quality and minerality to pair with the salty full flavours of Bacalao. Look for one of the southern sub-regions such as Contado do Tea or O Rosal as they will have more body than the northern sub-regions. You could also choose a Greco di Tufo, a heavier, full flavoured wine from Campania. Greco has great acidity, is full bodied and has flavour complexity. The salt, garlic and tomatoes can cause wine pairing mayhem but the Greco more than holds its own.

T H I S

M O N T H ’ S

E X P E RT S

Shane Taylor (ST) Wine Director, CinCin Ristorante + Bar Shane’s career in service extends from experience in several restaurants and hotels in the United Kingdom and U.S., to eight years at the top of Vancouver’s wine scene at Toptable properties. Shane’s early days were spent at the Relais Gourmand White Barn Inn in Kennebunkport, Maine. In the U.K. he served at Glenapp Castle and Chapter One, both Michelin-starred, before moving to Canada in 2005 to join Araxi and then on to Assistant Wine Director of Blue Water Cafe. He holds the WSET Diploma as well as Advanced Sommelier from the London-based Court of Master Sommeliers, and is currently readying to take on the Master Sommelier designation.

@BlueGrouseWines ouseWines

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Jorge Barandiaran (JB) Front of House Manager, Wolf in the Fog Van de Reep moved to Vancouver to pursue an education in geology but quickly was won over by the hospitality industry following graduation. After a nearly decade stint as a barista at some of Western Canada’s top cafes, Van de Reep made the jump into the restaurant world, joining the team at Campagnolo ROMA in 2012 to work behind the bar. In early 2014, he opened Upstairs at Campagnolo where he tends the bar with a classic approach to spirits, cocktails and wine. In these pairing columns we don’t use specific recipes. Similar recipes tp these can be found on the web.


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g LIQUID ASSETS

—By Larry Arnold

WHITE WINES: Giesen Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 New Zealand $17.00+ Simply delicious with fresh citrus and and tropical fruit aromas and juicy fruit flavours nicely balanced with a jolt of mouth-watering acidity to titillate your taste buds. Yeow! S E A F O O D

H O U S E

Saint Clair Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2014 New Zealand $19.00+ If you are a diehard fan of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, this blockbuster from the south island, is for you. Big, bold and bursting with passion fruit, blackcurrant and gooseberry aromas that expand through the palate picking up citrus and mineral notes as it opens up. Nicely balanced with good length and a clean fresh finish. Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc 2013 California $23.00+ A classic example of Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc produced from estate grown fruit. Light and crisp with hints of ripe peach, citrus and tropical fruit notes, balanced with soft acidity and a slightly herbaceous finish. Quails’ Gate Gewurztraminer VQA 2014 Okanagan Valley $17.00+ Wow! This is a real zinger. The nose is a heady potpourri of lychee nuts, dried rose petals, yellow grapefruit and about a million other exotic things that I am currently hard pressed to find words for. Needless to say this bright, richly appointed spice ball from the heart of the Okanagan is absolutely delicious! Slightly off dry with some weight and a buzz of zippy acidity that winds its way through a clean fresh finish. Amen.

O Y S T E R

F E S T

2 0 1 5

s u cc c c u l e n t , f re r e s h , l o ca c a l a n d p l e n t i f u ll.. . . n o ow w u n t i l J u n e 3 0 th In CCoast oast Vict Victoria oria Harbourside Hot Hotel el & Marina | bluecrab.ca bluecrab.ca | 250.480.1999 250.480.1999 | t/the_bluecrab t/the_bluecrab | ff/bluecr f/bluecrabseafoodhouse /bluecrabseaffoodhouse

Mission Hill 5 Vineyards Rose 2014 Okanagan $16.65+ Gorgeous salmon pink colour, check! A delicate floral-strawberry nose, yes that too! Plenty of rich berry flavours and Bobs your uncle I think we got it all! Clean, thirstquenching and easy drinking. I think we have a winner here.

RED WINES: Glen Carlou Syrah 2010 South Africa $23.80+ This tasty Syrah from the heart of South Africa’s Paarl Valley is big and concentrated, with dense layers of ripe blackberry and currant flavours nicely integrated with spicy French oak. Full-bodied and silky smooth. Tommasi Arele Appassimento 2012 Italy $22.25+ Tommasi is one of the most respected names in the Veneto and rightly so. The family produces a wide range of quality wines at every price point. Arele is an appassimento wine made from partially dried grapes. This is a good thing, it adds all sorts of wonderful and subtle nuances to what otherwise might be just a simple little Valpolicella. Fruity and rich with a little heft on the palate and enticing red cherry, dried herb and spice flavours. Medium bodied with fresh acidity and a long, juicy finish. Marietta Old Vine Red-Lot #61 NV California $25.00+ For hard core wine afficianado’s Marietta’s Old Vine Red is the “Rocky Horror Show” of unbelievable deliciousness, a cult classic. This is not a wine to contemplate. There is nothing to be found within its inky depths but pure enjoyment. Lot #61 is a field blend of grapes (based on Zinfandel) and vintages, sourced from vineyards throughout Sonoma and Mendocino counties. It is a simple hearty red, rich and concentrated with ripe berry flavours, a lush texture and silky tannins. Need I say more? Masia F Tempranillo 2013 Spain $12.00+ Do yourself a favour and run down to your favourite liquor store and invest in a case or two of this hearty red from Valdepenas. If they don’t stock it, find another store. Generous and robust with dark berry, earth and spice flavours nicely balanced with a patina of fine-grained tannins! The Masia F Tempranillo is currently the house red at Burj Al Arab in Dubai, the planet’s only seven star hotel. Go figure. Guigal Cotes Du Rhone Rouge 2011 France $24.00+ Over the years I have had the pleasure of consuming many bottles of this classic Rhone blend and have yet to be disappointed. This vintage is no exception. Ruby red with E black cherry, raspberry, dried herb and cracked pepper aromas and flavours, medium to full-bodied with a gloss of soft tannin and a long persistent finish. Delicious and dependable. E

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EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

Bikes. Books. Beer. The warm weather is here, and we’re all looking for a way to spend a day doing something to escape the daily grind. What better way to do that than get out on your bike and enjoy some of the best shopping, food and entertainment Sidney has to offer? BIKES Conveniently located on the Lochside trail (which intersects with the Galloping Goose) Sidney is a hidden gem on the Saanich Peninsula with plenty to offer those who visit whether travelling by bike, car or bus. For cyclists, the Lochside Trail is a multi–use trail spanning from Victoria to Swartz Bay, and is by far the best way to get to Sidney. The trail passes through beaches, farmland, and wetlands with some portions paved and others finished in gravel or packed dirt. The ride features unbeatable scenery and many easy-to-ride, flat sections for those of us who are less than experienced on our cycles! Once in Sidney, Russ Hays Bicycle Shop (open seven days a week) is sure to thrill any two-wheel enthusiast with their selection of bikes and accessories. The helpful staff can also assist with any on-the-fly repairs or routine maintenance you might need post-ride.

BOOKS Once in Sidney, take some time to enjoy what the town has to offer – pubs, restaurants, coffee shops, shopping and of course, with Sidney being fondly known as ‘Booktown’, bookstores that cater to every literary taste imaginable.

Whether you choose from The Haunted Book Shop, Galleon Books & Antiques, Tanner’s Books, The Military Book Store or Beacon Books, the selection of available reading material is enough to please any reading enthusiast. For the younger crowd, The Children’s Book Shop offers a wide selection of the latest and greatest in kid-friendly lit.

BEER Once you’ve had your literary fix, head out to one of the town’s favourite pubs. For a west coast twist on traditional pub fare in a waterfront setting, Beacon Landing or the Rumrunner Pub will give you seaside ambiance and a variety of fresh and creative menu items to choose from as well as beer, wine and liquor selections to tantalize any palate. Enjoy indulging in some classic pub fare? The Charles Dickens Pub and Boondocks are sure to please any traditionalist with their menu items featuring fresh, local ingredients. Making the trip to Sidney alone? Bring your book or magazine with you and enjoy it in peace with your meal! Bikes. Books. Beer. What S more could you want? See you in Sidney!

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Discover something new in our selection of over 300 cookbooks! Beacon and Fourth in Sidney Open 7 Days a Week! tannnersbooks.com

Looking for a local getaway? Discover the ultimate staycation at The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa. Take time to rejuvenate at our beautiful Haven Spa and Salon, and enjoy fresh island flavours at Haro’s Restaurant & Bar. Just minutes from the BC Ferries to Vancouver and the Gulf Islands and Victoria International Airport.

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Package includes: One night stay in a Seaview Room, $100 food and beverage credit, wine and cheese on arrival and a gift from Haven Spa. From $279/night. Call toll free 1.866.659.9445 • reservations@sidneypier.com


EAT Magazine May-June 2015_Victoria_56_Layout 1 5/4/15 10:07 AM Page 53

TALK By Rebecca Baugniet

What the Pros Know For this issue, we asked juice bars across the province to tell us what they recommend for an early summer tonic or refresher. Audrey Alsterberg, Owner, Rebar, Victoria (250) 370-7677 A favourite drink of mine is the ‘Rosy Glow’ and is perfect for warmer weather. The Rosy Glow is made with fresh pressed apple, pineapple, cucumber & fresh mint. We like to serve this juice on ice for a cool drink that’s perfect for a warm summer’s day! Refreshing and thirst quenching, this drink is excellent for hydrating the body and giving skin a healthy glow as well as being a digestive aid. Zach Berman, co-owner, The Juice Truck, Vancouver (604) 719-8861 The Turmeric Tonic is my go-to for early summer refreshment. It is cold pressed pineapple juice with orange, carrot, turmeric, ginger, lemon and a pinch of fresh peppercorn. It’s sweet and light with a mild spicy kick from the turmeric, ginger and peppercorn. Joe Cunliffe, owner, Café Bliss and Be Love, Victoria (250) 590-5733 Here’s my favourite, by far! Iced Nettle Mint Tea, made with wild nettle tea, mint, lemon, honey and ice. Wild nettles are amazing. They are the wild foraged green that I get most excited about because they are so tasty and versatile. Rich in iron, antiinflammatory, good for your hair, skin, and teeth, nettles are above all delicious. We first put iced nettle tea on our menu at Café Bliss 3 years ago and not many people knew what it was. It started off as a slow seller, which was great because it meant more for me! Wild nettle tea is slightly bitter on its own, which is perfectly balanced by the light refreshing flavours of mint and lemon with a touch of sweetness from the honey. Iced nettle mint tea tastes like spring to me. If you’re picking nettles yourself, look for shady, low, areas with rich moist soil. Nettles are abundant and I feel like I see them without searching when I go hiking this time of year. Once you learn how to handle them you won’t get stung, but gloves are a good idea for the first timer. Happy foraging! Lindsey Blane, FreshCoast Health Food Bar, Victoria (778) 265-7785 At FreshCoast, we have a ton of amazing and unique cold pressed juices and other drinks, but the most perfect summer refresher is, hands-down, our Detox Lemonade! We squeeze fresh lemons and infuse the juice with a mixture of bentonite clay, activated charcoal and zeolite. The clay, zeolite and charcoal act as absorbatives, helping to eliminate toxins and ensuring the release of beneficial minerals to the body. The lemonade is sweetened with maple syrup, giving it a light, pleasant flavour. Not only is this lemonade super cleansing and good for your body, it tastes absolutely amazing. Nancy Bath, owner, JuiceBox Okanagan, Osoyoos (250) 689-0174 JuiceBox Okanagan recommends the Energy Booster to start your day off right. It consists of oranges, lemons, carrots, mint and ginger. This pick me up will help boost the immune system and keep you going for that busy day. Amanda-Lee Chesley, Jusu Bar, Victoria (250) 590-8215 Part of our soon to be released "simple simon menu" (coinciding with the opening of our Chinatown location) is our cold pressed "Pink Panther", made with watermelon, strawberry and rhubarb. Presenting with a beautiful pink colour, we’ve twisted up a classic pairing. Beside the sweetness of the strawberry and watermelon, our team utilizes rhubarb at its peak for a slight acidic note. This watermelon forward creation showcases our favourite picnic season products… packed full of antioxidants, and even a little potassium, this refreshing drink is great for the skin and offers vitamins A, B6, and C alongside a healthy dose of hydration for those summer days and nights.

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The Buzz

modern grains for their pasta production. It is the first pasta company in Canada that is making stone

VICTORIA: Tourist season is almost upon us and the region’s hotels are gearing up with new locally owned

processed grains. (cowichanpasta.com) And over in Sooke, Brooke Fader (sommelier and leader of the

Since 2010, Cowichan Pasta has been working with local farmers to grow both ancient grains and ground pasta with ancient grains such as Spelt, Emmer and Red Fife that is stored in whole kernel form, and then milled fresh with a chosen grind that maintains more of the fibre portion of the wheat than over

and operated food outlets. At Hotel Zed, The Ruby is now open. The retro-style diner seats 42 and is

Vancouver Island Slow Food convivium) and chef Oliver Kienast (former executive chef at Sooke Harbour

appealing to hotel guests and locals alike with their rotisserie chicken-based menu. (hotelzed.com) Also in

House), have opened an enticing new food operation. Wild Mountain is “all about the representation of

Saanich, Bin 4 Burger Lounge opened their third location next to the Accent Inn this spring

our bountiful food region, alive with wild and cultivated ingredients year round. Working with our local

(bin4burgerlounge.com), and in James Bay, Belleville’s Watering Hole and Diner is gaining its own

farmers and fishermen creates an important reciprocity. Foraging from the ocean and forest nurtures a vital

following and settling nicely into the space formerly occupied by the Swiftsure Restaurant at the Day’s Inn.

relationship with nature. Modest but clever techniques, honest and creative flavours, compose a truly West

(bellevilles.ca) May also signals the return of outdoor summer markets. Though the Moss Street Market is now running year-round, their regular season markets (10am-2pm) kick off on Saturday May 2. New this year will be a Tasting Room in the Garry Oak Room, featuring local beer, wine and spirit vendors. (mossstreetmarket.com) Recent openings around town include the Beijing Bistro at 769Fort St, and Quesada, a Toronto-based chain that specializes in burritos and tacos, on Yates St. (quesada.ca). On Wharf St, Zaffran Exotic Indian Cuisine has taken over the space that was previously occupied by India Bistro. (zaffran.ca) A little Indian-inspired deli called Delhi (deli + love + india) is now open at the corner of Government and Bay St. (, where Touch of Europe Deli used to operate. (twitter.com/delhiyyj) This spring saw Victorians say goodbye to one of their favourite breakfast spots; after ten years in its Johnson St. location, Lady Marmalade closed its doors. Their Toronto location remains open for business. (ladymarmalade.ca) After closing for repairs and renovations following an oven fire in early 2014, The Italian Bakery on Quadra St – an institution in the city for over three decades - has officially reopened. (italianbakeryvictoria.com) Just in time for warmer weather, Cold Comfort Headquarters in Fernwood is now offering their ice cream in scoops, including vegan selections. (coldcomfort.ca) Crêpe fans can look forward to a new crêperie, coming soon to Broughton St. (formerly the Cleopatra Hookah and Coffee Lounge). Jusu Organic Juice Bar is opening their second location on Fisgard St in Chinatown in early May (jusubar.com) and rumour has it that Fol Epi is getting close to opening a downtown location. (folepi.ca) And Shatterbox Coffee Bar has reopened in its new location at 916 Pandora St, right beside Relish. (shatterbox.ca) Victoria-based food writer Cinda Chavich has a new book coming out soon: The Waste Not, Want Not Cookbook; Save Food, Save Money, and Save the Planet will be published by Touchwood Editions and promises to help readers shop, cook and eat with zero waste. (touchwoodeditions.com) Strictly speaking, this is the Victoria Buzz, but there was some exciting news from a little further afield that I wanted to include here. First off, up in Cowichan Bay, the Cowichan Pasta Company has found a new home, establishing a full-fledged production facility located inside Cure Artisan Meat & Cheese Deli.

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Coast menu.” Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday. For more information, visit their website. (wildmountaindinners.com) —REBECCA BAUGNIET COWICHAN VALLEY | UP ISLAND: Even though we've experienced an extra early spring this year I still think of May as being the real start of spring, with the promise of great weather to come. I love nothing more than spending a sunny morning with a perfectly roasted three shot Americano and the daily paper in a fine bakery, stopping for a glass of wine at a local winery early afternoon and finally finding a great deck to dine on for a leisurely evening of wonderful food. On a weekend at Saison Market in Cowichan Bay sample some of their award winning pastries and purchase a bottle of their own wine to take to the beach, or enjoy at a local park along with some farm to fork goodies from the new Great Greens Market. Head to picturesque Genoa Bay Cafe for a lovely meal with a spectacular view of the sun set. (saisonmarket.ca, greatgreens.ca, genoabaycafe.com) Sadly there will not be a dedicated Spot prawn festival in Cowichan this year but you will still be able to purchase live prawns as soon as the season opens in May. Watch cowbayseafood.com for the opening season date and for any extra prawn events. You might even find that spot prawns have made it onto the menu at new Asian fusion restaurant Kooyah's Cafe, 4176-A Departure Bay Nanaimo. Funky, community conscious Cumberland is the home of the new Cumberland Brewing Co. Owner and 'guy who sells the beer' Darren Adam has opened beside his pizzeria Riders Pizza so you can order a gourmet pie that arrives via the pass through while you sample a sleeve of beer at the bar. Or, purchase a growler full of old style English bitter, IPA or Hefeweizen to enjoy at a later date. Keep your eye on this up and coming gem at cumberlandbrewing.com Courtenay/Comox has undergone quite a few changes lately; Mad Chef of 'you gotta eat here' fame moved from their old location at 492 Fitzgerald to 444 Fifth Street, keeping the same funky vibe and adding more variety to their already great menu. New to the area Great Island BBQ moved into their old location. Signature Oils & Vinegars moved to 2060 Guthrie Rd Comox near Thrifty Foods, while Oh So Yummy closed its doors at 1190 Cliff Ave. and Hen & Hog opened up in it's place offering local ingredient breakfasts. Rumour has it that Toscano's in Comox has changed ownership - stay tuned for more info in the next edition of The Buzz. Where chef Ronald St Peirre originally opened Locals Restaurant on 364 8th Street, Rhodos Coffee Roasting Co. has taken up residence offering fair trade


EAT Magazine May-June 2015_Victoria_56_Layout 1 5/4/15 10:07 AM Page 55

The Buzz organic brews from around the world and finally, Hot Chocolates and Cakebread Bakery have added a wonderful line of artisan oils and vinegars that can be sampled and chosen while you wait for your bakery order. (madchefcafe.net, rhodoscoffee.com, and cakebread.com) No matter how you spend your spring, don't forget to include some of these old favorites, and add some new ones to your experience. —KIRSTEN TYLER TOFINO: We started celebrating the sun during its many appearances this spring, but May and June is when we really welcome it back. Garden parties, Feast Tofino, the return of summer markets, and much more are all happening in Tofino during the lead-up to summer. Feast Tofino is a festival that celebrates the boat-to-table food culture of Tofino, particularly local, sustainable fisheries. In a series of events between May 8-24th, local and visiting chefs, restaurants, fishers, foragers and farmers collaborate on special dine-out style menus, guest chef dinners, a dock festival, and other specialty events. The festivities kick off April 26th with a Sneak Peek into Feast: a Travelling Culinary Journey through Tofino. The events confirmed at press time include the 2nd annual Boat to Tailgate party on May 8th, building on a popular concept from 2014 that saw fresh seafood caught that day being cooked up barbecue style dockside. The Dirty Gourmet is a combination of dirt and adventure biking with a gourmet lunch in the backcountry near Tofino. This year’s event will be stretched out into a full weekend of fun May 17-18th. And finally, the Tofino Dock Festival is the largest Feast event on Saturday, May 23rd on Tofino’s beautiful inner harbour. Enjoy seafood tasting, preparation demonstrations, and educational tours of sustainable seafood processing. For additional information as it is announced and to purchase tickets for all events, please visit (feasttofino.com). Tickets for the Tofino Food and Wine Festival went on sale April 1st. Now in its 13th year, this festival is a series of events running from June 5-7th of which the main one is Grazing in the Gardens on Saturday, June 6th held at the Tofino Botanical Gardens. Look for 16 local and Vancouver Island food purveyors to be part of this year’s main event (at press time), along with 71 wineries and seven breweries. Enjoy canapés paired with wine and microbrews while you wander through the garden paths of TBG to live music by Dinah D’s Contraband Swingclub and DJ Kevin West. EAT is again proud to be a sponsor. For more news and events, and to purchase tickets visit tofinofoodandwinefestival.com

1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pm Tuesday to Saturday

The Wickaninnish Inn will host a winemaker’s barbecue during the food and wine festival weekend, on the Driftwood Patio overlooking Chesterman Beach. (wickinn.com). Two local restaurants have been getting a lot of attention lately, and it continues. Western Living Magazine recently named the Tacofino team of Jason Sussman and Kaeli Robinsong, as well as Nick Nutting and Andre McGillivray of Wolf in the Fog, among its top 10 Foodies of the Year. The Tacofino team expanded its empire to two new locations, in Victoria (787 Fort St.) and Gastown (15 W. Cordova), in 2014. (tacofino.com wolfinthefog.com) The long weekend in May means the return of the summer market to Tofino’s Village Green every Saturday until September. An eclectic collection of vendors offers their wares at the public market, including many of the food variety. Enjoy tamales, popcorn, Foggy Bean coffee, and fresh bread products from Six Hundred Degrees to name a few. The market will run until Labour Day each Saturday from 10am to 2pm. Looking forward to seeing you in Tofino this summer! —JEN DART

The Great Rotisserie Chicken Cookbook by Eric Akis (Random House)

T

he premise is ingenious. Who hasn’t stopped by the supermarket to pick-up a cooked chicken for a fast, last-minute dinner? Sure they’re convenient but Victoria author Eric Akis thinks there’s a lot more that could be done with them. In fact, he wrote a whole book devoted to quick and easy recipes that use rotisserie chicken—both storebought and those you roast yourself on your barbecue rotisserie at home. The book clocks in at over 100 recipes and runs from appetizers, salads, wraps and pizza to Asian noodles, rice and entrees. Plus there are sections on buying and handling chicken, how to put together a home rotisserie—even how to truss the chicken. Some recipes that caught our eye: Shrimp & Chicken Paella with Chorizo & Olives, Jerk Chicken, Spicy Chicken & Mango Cucumber Salad and Creamy Chicken on Polenta with Cheese. All look tempting. So, why settle for plain chicken when there’s so much more you can do to turn that rotisserie chicken into a healthy, interesting meal.

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THE ART OF STAINLESS STEEL ICONIC DESIGN • BRILLIANT PERFORMANCE • INDISPUTABLY LE CREUSET

Cookware | Bakeware | Tableware | Accessories


Eat magazine may | june 2015