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RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | CULINARY TRAVEL

MARCH | APRIL

l 2012 | Issue 16-02 | FREE | EATmagazine.ca

CELEBRATING THE FOOD & DRINK OF

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Cheeky Fish Nuggets & Chubby Duck Fries

YOUR EXCEPTIONAL EATS! AWARD WINNERS


EAT m 1 0 0 % O R G A N I C | F A I R T R A D E | L O C A L LY O W N E D | S U S TA I N A B L E

Since 1992 we’ve been creating the world’s finest, freshest, organic teas, skin and body products.

Join us online or sign up for our e-news to be the first to know about our birthday celebrations throughout 2012. SilkRoadVictoria

@silkroadtea

It all started in Victoria’s Historic Chinatown, with a passion for premium quality ingredients and exceptional customer service, an eco-friendly approach and a commitment to our community values which continue to be just as important to us today as they were when we started. Thank you for all your support over these years. We are looking forward to celebrating with you!

silkroadtea.com 1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown

a knife for every task

Main

The Excep Awards -

RECIPES Your Fry D Appy Hou

PRODUC Sea Veggi

Destinati New Brew 46 Book Rev 41

Cover phot

EAT is delive in BC includ Kelowna, Th

20% Off Not just a Wine Bar

Face to Face with Stephen Quigley

Communit Nanaimo: K Okanagan: Web Repor Deanna Lad Contributo Pam Durkin, G Lornie, Den Laplante, Tr Rebecca Wel

Publisher Pac

forged perfection Bridal Registry Available Broadmead Village, Victoria 130-777 Royal Oak Drive 250-727-2110

for people who love to cook

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Open 7 nights 5pm | midnight Tues-Sat 5pm | 10pm Sun-Mon 250 . 388 . 4222 1307 Gladstone Avenue, Victoria www.stagewinebar.com twitter.com/stagewinebar

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Since 1998 | E

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Main Plates The Exceptional Eats! Reader Awards - The Results . ....14

Tapas Concierge Desk . . . . . . . 06 Epicure At Large . . . . . . .08 Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .09

RECIPES Your Fry Day Starts Here ..26 Appy Hour . . . . . . . . . . . . .....32

Top Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

PRODUCERS SERIES Sea Veggies . . . . . . . . . . . .....30

Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Destination Kelowna . . .....36 New Brewery . . . . . . . 46 Book Review . . . . . . . . 41

Meet the Chef . . . . . . . . .10 (Okanagan edition . . . . . .46) Good For You . . . . . . . . .12 Eating Well for Less . . . .22 Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .38 Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .40 Wine & Food Pairing . . .42 News from around BC . .43 Chefs’ Talk . . . . . . . . . . .47

Cover photography: “Fry Day” by Michael Tourigny

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Editor in Chief Gary Hynes Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman, Online DRINK Editor Treve Ring Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear Community Reporters Nanaimo: Karma Brophy, Tofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver:: Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet, Comox Valley: Eli Blake Web Reporters Deanna Ladret, Ellie Shortt, Susan Evans, Treve Ring Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Kusiewicz, Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Sandra McKenzie, Michaela Morris, Julie Pegg, Genevieve Laplante, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Elizabeth Smyth, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Advertising: 250.384.9042, editor@eatmagazine.ca Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: editor@eatmagazine.ca Website: eatmagazine.ca Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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editor’s note

After 10 successful years we are closing our Victoria location this spring.

Kitchen . Dining . Bed . Bath

CLEARANCE SALE is on, with great deals on all in-stock items. Victoria only, 1437 Store St. www.muffetandlouisa.com We look forward to seeing you in our beautiful store in Sidney, Landmark building, 2506 Beacon Ave.

/UR F ARMERS

AR E OUT S T ANDI NG I N T HE I R F I E L D

.I AGAR A 'R OCE R Y &AI R F I E L D -AR KE T

W

hen the winter rains have been falling for seemingly weeks on end, I like to travel. I get tired of hunkering down, cooking stews and chopping firewood for the woodstove. I long for a change of scenery and some fresh inspiration and new tastes. Some of you might jet off to Hawaii or Mexico. Others could take a big boat cruise with their all-you-can-eat buffets. But for me, it’s all about the food. I like to take my winter break in San Francisco, birthplace of the locavore movement and, to many, the food capital of North America. Why? The food scene is busy, vibrant, and creative, there’s often blue skies and it’s about ten degrees warmer, flights are cheap and short (about two hours), and no pesky time zone change all make San Fran my go-to getaway. This year was no different. Destination San Francisco called and I answered. My four days were a whirlwind of bleeding edge restaurants, comforting and classic cafes and plenty of shopping (food and wine). Both wine and food prices are less expensive and without the heavy hand of the BC liquor laws you can afford to trade up a level or two when choosing a wine from a restaurant wine list. My plane landed at SFO at 3:30pm and by 6:10 I had checked into my hotel and was seated cozily in Barbacco Eno Trattoria, sipping a flute of Sorelle Bronca Prosecco. The seating is communal, the dishes eclectic. I chose from a menu of piccoline (tiny), in vasetto (in a jar—I could happily nosh on the spreadable smoked Calabrian salame softened with lardo daily for the foreseeable future.), inizio (starter), piedi e ali (feet & wings), dal grano (from wheat), and a lato (sides). The polpette (Sicilian meatballs with raisins and pine nuts) were so good. Another night it was the eye-opening Sons & Daughters. This tiny restaurant near Union Square has an open kitchen and is at the forefront of re-envisioning California cuisine. The restaurant has a 1-acre, 32-box garden, greenhouse, and orchard located outside the city that provides the restaurant with a huge variety of flowers, micro greens, herbs, vegetables, and fruit. Among the dishes I loved were the Foie-Blood Orange-Oats-Geranium (course one) and the Abalone-Burdock-Castelvetrano-Dill (course three). You might think theses combinations odd from reading the menu but they fit deliciously together to create flavours I had never thought possible. Much of the restaurant and shop action has moved to the grittier Mission district where rents are cheaper. I visited Tartine Bakery (think Fol Epi with long line-ups) and Bi-Rite Market, the amazing grocery store that apparently was the inspiration for Whole Foods. Producing serious food in a casual room Commonwealth is redefining the concept of what a restaurant should be. It was named one of the ten best restaurants in the USA in 2011. If you go, don’t miss the Jerusalem Artichoke-Onion cooked in Hay-Quinoa-Chickweed-Quail Egg combination. Both Commonthweath chef Jason Fox and Sons & Daughters chefs Matt McNamara and Teague Moriarty have been influenced by the new genius of California cooking David Kinch of Manresa in Los Gatos. There were other excellent noshes and so many more possible stops but after four days I was sated and happy to get back to soggy BC, our lovely local food scene and the upcoming spring growing season – energized and invigorated. Gary Hynes, Editor I wish you all good eating (and traveling).

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Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk

by Rebecca Baugniet

For more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

MARCH

2012 VANCOUVER PLAYHOUSE INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is one of the biggest and oldest wine events in the world, offering something for every level of wine drinker, collector and trade professional. Winery principals (winemaker, proprietor, senior executive) from selected wineries and countries will be in attendance to pour and discuss their wines from Feb 27-- Mar 4. GROWING FOOD IN THE CITY – ROYAL ROADS COURSE If you are concerned about where your food comes from, what’s in it (or on it), or simply getting the best nutrition possible for your family – growing your own vegetables and fruit is the answer. In this unique and timely course you will learn essential permaculture and organic gardening techniques. This practical, hands-on course is open to everyone, no prior education or gardening experience required. Mar 3 – Sep 22. (www.royalroads.ca/continuing-studies) ARTISAN COFFEE PAIRING MENU AT DEERHOLME FARM Bill Jones will be working with Drumroaster Coffee to create a menu that showcases the flavour and creativity of premium coffee beans from a variety of origins. Dishes will include an Island Aged Farmhouse cheese ball with an espresso balsamic syrup and a Coffee cured Sockeye salmon gravlox with marinated king oyster mushroom, fresh herb salad. $90/person (plus HST) Call 250 748 7450 for more information. Duncan, Mar 10. 5 - 9pm. (www.deerholme.com) PICA SPRING BREAK TEEN CULINARY BOOT CAMP Spring break teen camp 2012 is all about learning the basics in Culinary, Baking & Pastry Arts. Teens will learn the importance of proper food (Food Safe) and equipment handling, knife skills and cleanliness in the kitchen while cooking and enjoying their class creations. Includes all supplies and ingredients and Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts' logo apron. Vancouver, Mar 12-16. $450. PACIFIC RIM WHALE FESTIVAL GALA DINNER AND SILENT AUCTION Chef Nick Nutting and the kitchen brigade at the Wickaninnish Inn cook up some magic, as wine pairings and tempting silent auction items complement the evening for this 14th annual fundraising (and fun-raising) event. 100% of the ticket cost and silent auction proceeds support the volunteer-fueled Whale Festival, now in its 26th year! Tickets for the dinner and wine pairing are an amazingly great value at $110/person. Tofino, Mar 15 (www.wickinn.com) ALM WORKSHOPS The ALM Organic Farm (Sooke, BC) is offering a great series of spring workshops: Salad Throughout the Seasons on Mar 19, an Edible/Medicinal Herb Walk on Mar 20, Grow Amazing Tomatoes on Mar 26, and Plant Propagation on Apr 16. Classes are $40 - $55 per person. For complete class details and to register, visit www.almfarms.org CULINAIRE The third annual Culinaire event will provide Victorians the opportunity to savour signature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants, lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty food producers, and sip from a fine selection of local and regional wines and craft beers. Proceeds benefit the annual scholarship program at Camosun College’s Culinary Arts Program. Mar 22. For full event details and a current list of who will be presenting visit www.culinairevictoria.com. A TASTE OF ARGENTINA AT PAPRKIA BISTRO Wine pairing dinner featuring wines from Argentina. Mar 27. $35 per person. For more information, contact Geoff Parker geoff@paprika-bistro.com 6TH ANNUAL DINING OUT FOR LIFE On Mar 29, restaurants across Vancouver Island will donate 25% of their food revenues to AIDS Vancouver Island. Vancouver Island support for Dining Out For Life continues to grow, alongside the Vancouver and Whistler areas, as do the numbers of participating restaurant. Visit www.diningoutforlife.com for a list of participating restaurants.

6

EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

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APRIL

FRENCH WINE SCHOLAR COURSE Take your passion for French wines to a new level with an in-depth 8-week course that explores the history and terroir of French wine regions. Students will have the opportunity to taste many unique wines not currently available on the island and the option to write a final exam to become a certified French Wine Scholar. This class is ideal for anyone currently pursuing Sommelier or WSET Diploma designations. Classes run for nine weeks Mondays in Vancouver and Wednesdays in Victoria from Apr 2 or Apr 4. (www.winecollege.ca, www.frenchwinesociety.org or call/email Mark Shipway mshipway@aii.edu 1-800-667-7288 to register) CALIFORNIA WINE FAIR 2011 Now in its 31st year of touring across Canada, the 2011 California Wine Fair boasts 350 wines from 100 wineries throughout the Golden State. All under one roof, the range of wines includes products currently available in the market to new vintages and varietals that have yet to be released in the Canadian market. 600 guests sample wines, and bid on silent auction items including many of the hard-to-find wines featured at the tasting. Apr 18 at the Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre. $65. (www.artsclub.com/events) KAMLOOPS WINE FESTIVAL Celebrate wine in all kinds of ways! The Kamloops Wine Festival (Apr 5-13) will host seminars, tastings, and special dinners paired with excellent wines will be featured at many of the best local restaurants. The festival culminates with the Consumer Wine Tasting at the Kamloops Convention Centre on Apr 13. More details to follow closer to the event. (www.kag.bc.ca) UNCORK YOUR PALATE A very special evening of wine, food and music at Victoria’s historic Crystal Garden, to benefit the Victoria Conservatory of Music. Participating restaurants and caterers will serve a sampling of hors d’oeuvres and appetizers, paired with fine wines from the Naramata Bench Wineries. Meet the winemakers and be the first to taste Naramata’s Spring Release wines. Bid on wines and other exciting packages at the silent and live auctions. Apr 26. Tickets: $95. Tickets will be available online at TicketRocket at ticketrocket.org/Uncork and at the Victoria Conservatory of Music 250-386-5311 Toll free 1-866-386-5311. (www.vcm.bc.ca/calendars/uncork-your-palate) OTTAVIO ANNUAL BIG CHEESE CUT Come see the kitchen boys and girls of Ottavio cut the largest wheels of cheese made in the world today. Watch as they crack, cut and slice their way through the world’s oldest cheeses. Learn about the animals and families that have produced these beauties for generations. Taste the history and tradition of the cheese making craft. They will be starting with some smaller wheels of artisan cheeses from Quebec and move through to the Italian king, Parmigiano Reggiano, and up to the 225 kg behemoth, the organic, Swiss mountain Emmenthal. Samplings and specials on all cheeses cut. A great free event for the whole family. Apr 28 11.30 am - 1pm.

APRIL

ANNUAL LUND SHELLFISH FESTIVAL From May 26 - 28, the shores of Lund Harbour are transformed into an outdoor festival boasting food vendors selling a variety of freshly cooked oysters, clams, mussels, prawns, and other delights. Festivities include a Chowder Challenge, live music, craft booths, shellfish sales, art shows, free cooking demonstrations, BC’s Best Oysters Competition, contests, and kids’ play area. Sign up for a cruise of the nearby islands or a clam dig at Savary Island. Lund’s Shellfish Festival is handicap accessible and all waste is recycled (no garbage is produced). More information is available at www.lundbc.ca.

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL

7


epicure at large — by Jeremy Ferguson

Rhubarb Days Ignored and misunderstood down through the ages, it’s time for rhubarb to take centre stage.

A Local Story. Every week a batch of Hollie Wood’s fresh Satori oysters makes its 100 mile journey from Denman Island to the Marina Restaurant. And every week we send any extra oysters back to be re-seeded. Nothing wasted, unbelievably fresh. Just one of the stories that make up our plates each day.

Stunning Views Lunch • Dinner • Sushi • Sunday Brunch

250-598-8555 1327 Beach Drive at the Oak Bay Marina www.marinarestaurant.com 8

OB 5027 Oak Bay Marine Group EAT MAGAZINE MARCH Eat Magazine 4.375" x 9.8125" prepared July 28, 2010

| APRIL 2012

Any day now, take a peek out the window. If there’s rhubarb, it’s jumping out of the ground like a weed. In our garden, it billows aggressively among timber bamboo, New Zealand flax and purple azaleas, a gangling, oversized mop of leaves on cherry-red stilts. Rhubarb has always been a wallflower. If anyone has ever said anything brilliant or memorable about it, you tell me. Unlike spinach or broccoli, it hasn’t been treated as worthy of abuse. Rhubarb originated in Asia, probably northern China. The Chinese lumped it in with medicines and for 6,000 years relegated it to the unromantic role of purgative. It reached the West about 2,000 years ago, its name bearing further insult: it derives from the Latin Rhabarbarian, or “Rha of the Barbarians,” the river of the barbarians who cultivated it. The Romans accepted rhubarb with little enthusiasm, and not even the normally verbose Pliny had anything cunning to say about it. Yet it was as good a traveller as any. The intrepid Marco Polo noticed the Chinese exporting it. The Arabs and Persians imported it and were—the omnivorous Chinese having missed the point—the first to cultivate it as food. It reached Western Europe by the Middle Ages, but as a dried root, probably used as a demon repellant. Europe had no clue it could be eaten or even what it looked like in its natural form. When the Spaniard Magellan circumnavigated the world, his chronicler, the sublimely named Antonio Pigafetta, wrote that he had found it in Siam and that it was “a large, rotted tree” whose “wood is the rhubarb.” Pigafetta ran with this nonsense: “Twenty or twenty-five men gather together,” he waxed, “and they go into the forest, and when night falls, they climb into the trees, as much to catch the scent of the rhubarb as fear of the lions, elephants and other wild animals.” The English, of all people, were the first to contemplate eating it, even if they started with the leaves. But rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid, rendering the plant thoroughly unpalatable and theoretically deadly. The 19th-century cleric Augustus Hare, punished for succumbing to the “carnal indulgences” of a lollipop, was forced to consume a mix of rhubarb and soda. The plant as we know it arrived in Europe and the Americas between 18l5 and 1830. The French sniffed at it. Dumas did not even mention it in his Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine. The astute Larousse Gastronomique was positively dim-witted when it grudgingly acknowledged “some species ... cultivated as food plants.” During World War I, Americans consumed its leaves as a vegetable supplement; there were many poisonings. The French still haven’t much to do with it. The English, the Scandinavians, the Dutch and the Germans do, and the Italians use it to concoct an aperitif, the bittersweet Rabarbaro Zucca, a rhubarb-flavoured bitter. The U.S. contribution is the annual Rhubarb Festival, held every May, deliriously, in Intercourse, Pennsylvania. Nowadays rhubarb can get by on healthiness: the tender, sour stalk is a magic wand of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron and vitamins. Along with such elixirs as garlic and fatty fish, it has been revealed as a cholesterol exorcist. It contains only 16 calories per 100 grams, as long as you forget the alps of sugar we heap on it. Yet somehow, we haven’t really given rhubarb a stellar turn. It has to be more than the lower half of a strawberry-rhubarb pie. Instead of smothering it in sugar, we should embrace its sour disposition and turn it to our advantage. What would you say to a rhubarb margarita? Or rhubarb soup? What of tart rhubarb sorbet as a palate clearer? Or a sauce for fowl, game birds, veal, venison, pork and better still, a fatty roast duck? In a day or two, I’ll plunder the garden in pursuit of slender, tender, pink young stalks with aromatic, delicate-tasting flesh. (Don’t leave it until the last: older, thicker stalks display a coarse, watery consistency and formidable acidity levels). I’ll pick it all: the surplus freezes well, a sharp-tasting treat for the dull winter months. My wife—chef to my bumbling busboy—goes local, smoking a rack of Tannadice Farms pork from the Comox Valley in her Delta, B.C.-made Bradley Smoker and saucing it in rhubarb to counter the sweetness of the flesh. But I like it best when she partners it with lightly seared, pan-fried Quebec foie gras. Does she know how to balance the acid: she bathes the rhubarb in ice wine. And the wallflower turns into a princess.

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food matters — by Julie Pegg

Well-Oiled Seldom are there fewer than a dozen culinary oils in my pantry. On hand currently are five olive oils—a fruity Spanish one, a zippy New Zealand drop, one from California’s Olive Pit, an organic lovely from Australia and a coveted extra virgin firstpressed vintage Tuscan oil from Laudemio. Add to the inventory hazelnut oil, walnut oil, lobster oil and, to the abhorrence of Gordon Ramsay and other noted chefs (were they to know), truffle oil. Also in the portfolio, tea and grapeseed oils for their high smoke point, canola oil and, finally, an everyday good quality olive oil. Never one for margarine, commercial salad dressings or butter (save non-salted, high quality French, or local artisan-made butters), I nurture a passion for flavourful salad and cooking oils. As well as being packed with intense flavours, many culinary oils are cholesterol- and heart-friendly, too. (Calorie counters should take note, however. They all clock in around a hundred units per tablespoon.) Olive oil, the study of which can be as intricate as learning about wine, varies immensely in quality and flavour—far too involved to discuss in this space. As well, production can be subject to nefarious dealings. (I refer here to the trade in adulterated olive oil. [“Slippery Business,” The New Yorker, August 13, 2007.] While some steps have been taken to curb the illegal trade, it does continue.). So I’ll keep it simple. Basic olive oil should taste clean, not too viscous and be low in acidity. Spanish or Greek oils are often fine value for everyday use. Ten dollars rewards me with a litre of oil—enough for several weeks’ cooking for two. I find little need to lug a three-litre tin home from the shop unless I plan to chuck it into the pot by the cupful. I shell out, instead, for two or three small bottles of artisan “finishing” oils—a tangy herbaceous one for greens, a viscous and peppery one for drizzling on tomatoes, vegetables and cheeses and robust oil for napping wild mushroom pastas or grilled meats. For Caesar salad, I cut virgin olive oil with canola or sunflower oil. I find an all olive oil dressing too heavy. Just like tasting wine, however, it’s each to their own. To help with your preferences and opinions, seek advice from a reputable vendor. Gourmet shops should have knowledgeable staff and offer olive oil samples. Attending an olive oil seminar/tasting is worth every penny. If you intend to infuse olive oil with herbs, chilis or citrus peel, ensure those ingredients are completely bone-dry to avoid bacteria growth. I advise against garlic-infused oil due to the bulb’s tendency to turn oil quickly rancid. Hazelnut (filbert) and walnut oils are the Chanel of salad oils and priced accordingly. Gleaned from the roasted nut, these oils are rich and, of course, beautifully nutty yet delicate. Fortunately, as with expensive perfume, less is more. Dabbing these essences on a humble cream of cauliflower soup, a salad of baby arugula and radicchio, roasted golden beets or into cookie and cake batters adds an exquisite nuance. These oils are also recommended for drizzling over grilled fish and meat as well as pasta, though I stay mostly with olive oil for this fillip. The chemical compound 2,4-dithiapentane, when mixed with olive oil, emulates the earthy taste of truffle. Hence the disdain from Gordon Ramsay and contemporaries who feel such laboratory fiddling demoralizes the noble nugget and because too many resort to splashing the stuff willy-nilly over everything. Labelling the concoction truffle oil merely adds insult to injury. Hastening to the fridge to inspect my black and white truffle oils, I read that they are “infused with real truffles” (which is what you need to look for—in addition to the eye-popping price tag). I will continue to curl up in front of a movie with truffle-oil anointed popcorn, but can at least do it now guilt-free. No chemical tricks exist in the production of Vancouver-based Olive and Ciboulette lobster oil. Cannery chef Frederic Couton processes “Nova Scotia lobster, vegetable oils, herbs and spices” into beautiful essence of lobster. I love to toss a wee bit over a seafood chowder or bisque. Most specialty oils are best used sparingly and stored in the fridge (the lobster oil gets the freeze) to avoid spoilage. They cloud over but soon clear at room temperature. I’ve been thinking of adding coconut oil to my portfolio, and perhaps avocado or possibly pumpkin seed, or even pistachio, that is if I can find room in my fridge. Check out www.tourangelle.com for a very fine array of artisan oils. More information on lobster oil can be found at www.oliveciboulette.com.

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www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

9


chef profile — by Joseph Blake

Devour’s Jena Stewart Her tiny bistro delivers big, bold flavours and uncommon ingredients.

M din

Rebecca Wellman



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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

For the past three years, chef Jena Stewart’s tiny, Broughton Street bistro, Devour, has been one of Victoria’s best-kept culinary secrets. She has a devoted clientele, but with room for only 12 to 14 diners inside and four more outside when the weather permits, fans of Stewart’s cooking are torn between keeping Devour a secret and raving about her culinary magic. “I wanted to create a small restaurant which would allow a different menu daily. Equally important was to insure quality as well as to get to know the majority of our customers really well.” I caught up with her in New Mexico, where she was enjoying a well-earned winter vacation, and asked her how she got started. “In a butcher-baker establishment in a small Ontario town at age 12. It was working there, in this German eatery, that I found my love of scratch baking and the art of butchery. I discovered my passion for food at a young age.” Stewart studied at Dubrulle International Culinary Arts in Vancouver and The Culinary Arts School of Ontario in Mississauga before working in numerous kitchens over the years. She cites time spent working in kitchens at D’Jango in Philadelphia, the Art Gallery of Ontario and Sooke Harbour House as highlights prior to opening Devour. “They were all inspiring and wonderful places to cook; however, I have to say my favourite place was cooking on a woodstove at a fishing/hunting resort on the Naramata Bench,” Stewart explains, adding, “I’m inspired and influenced by passionate people who I can collaborate with to create interesting and delicious dishes. It takes more than one person to put food on the plate.” Another passion for Jena Stewart is teaching. “Combining cooking and teaching is definitely in my future!” she says with enthusiasm. Chef Stewart’s cooking philosophy is based on fresh, local and seasonal sources, and Devour’s walls are lined with cookbooks from various cultures. The daily menu featuring half a dozen main items reflects this international approach and always includes a vegetarian dish. I’ve enjoyed the Moroccan chicken stew with phyllo flake, halibut ceviche on endive, braised short ribs and grilled flatiron steak topped with Stilton cottage cheese. The soups and sandwiches are always a treat. My favourite lunch items are the brie bacon pesto sandwich and the duck salad rolls. Stewart’s desserts and baking are delicious—and adventurous too. Don’t miss the pecan praline ice cream sandwich, the cherry ricotta tart and the lemon polenta cake. Her lemon strawberry muffins are addictive. “I try to challenge myself daily to find and use ingredients that are not common,” Stewart explains. “I find myself constantly researching and reading to learn as much as I can about different cuisines. A dream is to travel and explore different areas of the world so I can expand my knowledge and experience. Owning a restaurant makes that difficult! One day …” 762 Broughton Street, Victoria, BC (250) 590-3231 www.devour.ca

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facebook.com/metroliquorstores twitter.com/metroliquor Victoria: University Heights Mall, Tuscany Village, Brentwood Bay | Kelowna: Downtown Cultural District | metroliquor.com www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

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Unfortunately, not all breakfast cereals are worth breaking your fast for. If that cereal flake you’re eating is derived from a genetically modified grain, contains toxic pesticide residues or is chock full of refined sugar and artificial flavours and colours, it’s hardly healthy—whole grain or not. The Cornucopia Institute, an American nonprofit organization, recently tested several brands of cereal and found many contained high levels of GMOs (genetically modified organisms) and residue from organophosphate pesticides. Surprisingly, some of the worst offenders were brands that market themselves as “healthy” and “all-natural,” like Kashi (owned by Kellogg’s) and Barbara’s. So how do you find a truly healthy cereal and reap the benefits of regular cereal consumption? If you live in B.C., the answer is simple—buy local. Several savvy B.C. companies are producing some of the healthiest and tastiest cereals on the market. Here are my top picks (in no particular order). Holy Crap —Despite the interesting moniker, the taste of this gluten-free, 100% organic blend of chia, hemp, buckwheat, dried fruit and cinnamon made on the Sunshine Coast is reminiscent of apple pie and so delicious you’ll forget just how healthy it is. The tasty melange is protein and fibre rich and is an excellent source of heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. In addition, mounting scientific evidence suggests chia, a chief component of the blend, can help reduce blood pressure and pro-inflammatory C-reactive protein. www.holycrap.ca New World Natural Food’s Organic Fruit Nut Muesli—I’ve always thought of muesli as the ultimate “comfort food.” This Burnaby version of the famous Swiss cereal is particularly scrumptious. It is a highly nutritious, 100% organic mix of oats, raisins, flax, nuts and seeds. Every ingredient is health-enhancing. Oats, for instance, can help you lower your cholesterol and blood sugar and reduce your risk for heart disease and cancer. Traditionalists recommend soaking muesli overnight in buttermilk, and I concur. The tang of the buttermilk marries perfectly with the sweetness of the grain and raisins, rendering a healthful concoction that is the perfect start to any day. www.newworldfoods.ca The Granola King’s Gourmet Granola—The quintessential West Coast breakfast gets modernized by the King’s royal treatment. If you’ve shied away from granola because of its tendency to be overly greasy and a tad too sweet, you need to try this crunchy blend from North Vancouver’s Granola King. Each 750-gram bag contains less than a third of a cup of unpasteurized honey and less than a third of a cup of sunflower oil. And while there’s less sweetener and oil—there’s a lot more hearthealthy organic oats, unsulphured coconut, dried fruits, nuts and seeds. And delightfully, a smidgen of unsulphered blackstrap molasses to give this granola that flavourful crunch we all love. www.thegranolaking.com Nature’s Path Smart Bran with Psyllium—This cereal is so therapeutic it almost warrants a prescription. But unlike most things “medicinal” it’s oh-so-easy to get down. Most bran cereals have a texture and taste akin to sawdust—but Nature’s Path, whose home office is in Richmond, has formulated an exception to the rule. These slightly sweet, crunchy little nuggets have a malt-like flavour that combined perfectly with the milk and medjool dates I paired them with. The combination of organic oat and wheat bran with psyllium husk fibre is indeed a smart and strategic breakfast that can help lower your cholesterol, treat constipation, regulate blood sugar and aid weight control. www.naturespath.com Anita’s Ancient Grains—This wheat-free cereal, made in Chilliwack, is chock full of disease-fighting whole grains, seeds and fruit. And while it isn’t gluten-free, the only gluten it contains comes in the form of spelt and kamut, two ancient grains with a much simpler form of gluten than wheat. Many wheat-intolerant individuals find they can enjoy spelt and kamut without any GI disturbances. That’s good news because both of these ancient grains are loaded with powerful antioxidants that can help knockout chronic diseases such as heart disease and cancer. I enjoyed this paired with vanilla yogurt for breakfast and as a key ingredient in a delicious apple crumble. www.anitasorganic.com

Gary Hynes

EAT magazine • March + April 2012 edition

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Fresh fava beans are a spring treat with a sweet taste and a buttery texture. Known throughout history as the “poor man’s meat,” they are packed with protein, fibre and iron. Almost every country around the world has a unique way of fixing favas. Ancient Romans adored them and considered them an aphrodisiac. (Their name comes from the Italian word fava, meaning “broad bean.”) They are still a beloved Italian ingredient, paired with pecorino cheese, escarole, artichokes, pancetta or other favourite Italian ingredients in pasta and seafood dishes, soups and salads. Favas are widely consumed across Europe, the Middle East, Latin America and Asia. Check out Italian, Iranian, Egyptian, Greek, Portuguese, Mexican and North African fava bean recipes. March is the time to plant fava beans for a June harvest. The plants are easy to grow, although they do attract aphids. As long as you commit to a daily aphid-squishing schedule, you can grow them successfully. Fresh favas are a rare commodity in our region. In March, Fairway Market on Quadra Street and the Root Cellar on McKenzie Avenue carry California-grown beans; in June and July Fairway sells favas grown on the Mainland. Scour local farmer’s markets in June and July for fresh fava pods. You’ll need about two pounds of pods to get approximately two-thirds of a pound of fresh shelled beans. These broad beans grow inside long, pale green pods. Harvest or purchase svelte pods containing pea-size beans. Bulging pods that are bursting at the seams will contain bitter, mealy tasting beans. To prepare them, string the pods, remove the beans, blanch them in salted water for a minute, and pinch off their waxy skins. Frozen favas are widely available and can be substituted for fresh in any recipe. Canned cooked favas are convenient for making dishes such as fava pâté (a Lebanese dip similar to hummus) and fava bean pesto. Dried favas must be soaked overnight before use. The best way to enjoy the ultimate in fresh fava flavour is to grow them yourself, so you can eat the tender young things raw, tossed in vinaigrette. They taste like the essence of spring.

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Fava Bean Andouille Sausage Relish This relish is a component of Emeril Lagasse’s Herb-Crusted Catfish with TomatoFennel Vinaigrette (see foodnetwork.com). 1 Tbsp olive oil 1 cup chopped andouille sausage 1/4 cup chopped onions 1 cup fresh (or frozen and thawed) fava beans, blanched and peeled 1/4 cup peeled, seeded, chopped Italian plum tomatoes 1 Tbsp minced garlic 1 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a large pan, heat oil over high heat. Add sausage and cook, stirring, until browned. Add onions and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add beans, tomatoes, garlic and cilantro, and sauté, stirring and shaking the pan occasionally, until beans are tender. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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BEST RESTAURANT COOKING LOCAL: Camille’s Left to right: Francois Boule—sous, David Mincey—owner, Stephen Drolet —chef, Lindsay Walker—Diningroom manager, Paige Robinson—owner, Katelyn Schoen, Tracy Nesom, Chris Stephens (missing: Carling Battistuzzi) 14

EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

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let’s eat out Restaurant Cooking Local Camille’s (VICTORIA) Edible Canada (VANCOUVER) RauDZ Regional Table (OKANAGAN) If it’s in season and local, it’s on the menu. This eatery celebrates local ingredients on a grand scale.

Restaurant of the Year Brasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA) Hawksworth (VANCOUVER) Local Lounge & Grille (OKANAGAN) It’s the best restaurant in the city. Bar none. In every way, every time - the best food, service, and ambience. End of discussion.

Keep Your Fork

Devour (VICTORIA) Meat & Bread (VANCOUVER) The Bench Market (OKANAGAN)

Brasserie L’ecole (VICTORIA) Cactus Club (VANCOUVER) Local Lounge & Grille (OKANAGAN)

Lunch is not really about replenishing energy to get on with the workday. It is an event and an excellent one at that.

Best Burger

Bistro at Merridale Cider (VICTORIA) The Pear Tree (VANCOUVER) Ricardo’s Mediterranean Kitchen (OKANAGAN)

Pink Bicycle (VICTORIA) Vera's Burger Shack (VANCOUVER) Burger 55 (OKANAGAN) From the bar to the bistro and now top billing at a few new hot haunts: the ubiquitous burger. Who does it best?

If you live in a big city, pick an eatery outside of your city center that’s worth a special trip.

Hernande'z Cocina (VICTORIA) La Taqueria (VANCOUVER) Mad Mango Cafe (OKANAGAN) Max $10 and delicious and well made not too much to ask, is it?

Stage (VICTORIA) Hawksworth (VANCOUVER) Local Lounge & Grille (OKANAGAN) Do you like it comprehensive, educational, big, or just beautiful? Which restaurant’s wine menu dominates?

Plate of the Year Steak Frites w/ red wine & shallot sauce & Roquefort butter - Brasserie l'école (VICTORIA) Wine marinated lamb popsicles in fenugreek cream curry on turmeric and spinach potatoes - Vij’s (VANCOUVER) Tie: Okanagan Cherry Spare Ribs (Local Lounge) | Blackened Prime Rib (Ricardo’s Mediterranean Kitchen) (OKANAGAN) You are still dreaming of it, pining for it, talking about it. What restaurant dish made that lasting impression?

Many diners just say no when it comes to dessert. But we have plenty of talented pastry chefs working to rise above the tried and true creme brule or molten chocolate cake. Tell us who’s cultivating a more sophisticated sweet tooth?

Best Place To Eat Sustainable Seafood Red Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA) C Restaurant (VANCOUVER) Local Lounge & Grille (OKANAGAN)

Wine List Smackdown Dish Under $10

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competitive bunch and many results were close–and in some instances a tie had to be declared. Due to space availability, we could only publish the top picks—the gold plated winners—in the magazine. But the top award winners don’t reflect the whole picture so we decided to publish the runner-ups online. (To see the complete list of winners, go to the EAT website at eatmagazine.ca.) We think readers chose a glorious group and I, for one, will be very busy in 2012 using this list as a guide to many new and wonderful eating and drinking experiences. In our opinion there were no losers only winners as we all win by shining the spotlight on a vibrant local food community.

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What was on your food and wine radar last year? Did you spot a trend? Did a new restaurant, wine or beer catch your attention? Who was your food hero this year? Was there a website, tweeter or blogger that helped give you a deeper insight into the food world? In other words, what were your Exceptional Eats! of 2011? To get the skinny on the gist EAT staff worked long into the night to come up with 42 questions designed to reflect the year that was. Then, on January 1st the virtual voting booth opened for a month. When the voting ended we tallied the results and organized them into four groups: eating in, eating out, drinking and, lastly, giving credit to those who inspired us. Turns out we are a loyal and

Feeding Cart Frenzy Red Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA) Japadog ( VANCOUVER) Jeffer’s Fryzz (OKANAGAN) Great street food has never been easier to find. At what food truck did you have a really amazing feed?

Place For Eats & Cocktails Venteto Tapa Lounge (VICTORIA) Joey Restaurants (VANCOUVER) RauDZ Regional Table (OKANAGAN)

Rich foods abound these days. Where do you go to give your body a break, somewhere the food is both healthy and delicious?

Place to Feed a Kid Pizzeria Prima Strada (VICTORIA) White Spot (VANCOUVER) Boston Pizza (OKANAGAN) Praise be to the eateries and restaurants that have high chairs and servers who get that kids are people who should go out to eat, too.

Top Chef Work is done for the day. Now for your reward? drink (or two) and nibbles. Cinq à sept becomes the happiest hours.

Place For Heathy Eating Rebar (VICTORIA) The Naam (VANCOUVER) Poppadoms (OKANAGAN)

Great restaurants that also serve a sustainable catch deserve an EAT award. At stake is the future of our oceans.

Under The Radar Daidoco (VICTORIA) Campagnolo Roma (VANCOUVER) The Real Things Pizza (OKANAGAN) Give up the name of that eatery that you adore and yet no one seems to know about.

Dan Hayes - The London Chef (VICTORIA) David Hawksworth Hawksworth (VANCOUVER) Tie: Robert Cordonier Hillside Bistro, Paul Cecconi Local Lounge (OKANAGAN) The dining scene is shining brighter than ever and this chef is a large part of the reason. Name your favourite local chef.

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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Rebecca Wellman

Phil Lafreniere, Daisey Orser and Adam Orser at the Root Cellar

Best Place to Buy Local Food The Root Cellar ( VICTORIA) • Granville Island Public Market (VANCOUVER) • Kelowna & Penticton Farmers Market (OKANAGAN)

It could be a farm stand, outdoor market or a store. Where do you go to buy your local, fresh and in-season food?

Place for Groceries Thrifty Foods (VICTORIA) Whole Foods (VANCOUVER) Quality Greens (OKANAGAN) Which grocery store has the selection, the quality, the people and the good vibes that says, We are the best?

Best Farm

Cold Comfort Ice Cream | Spot Prawns ( VICTORIA) Terra Breads | Sockeye Salmon (VANCOUVER) Carmelis Goat Cheese | Peaches (OKANAGAN)

Market on Yates ( VICTORIA) Whole Foods (VANCOUVER) Whole Foods (OKANAGAN) Bread: one of life’s basic pleasures. And you need flour to make bread, right? Whether it’s whole wheat, organic, rye, rice, potato, or buckwheat so many varieties, so many options. Who has the best flour selection in the city?

When you want a homegrownrecipe for dinner with family, or to make for friends, what book do you turn to?

16

Cook Culture (VICTORIA) Gourmet Warehouse (VANCOUVER) The Bench Artisan Food Market (OKANAGAN)

What local food, product or ingredient do you take great pride in introducing your visiting out-of-town friends and family to?

Best Selection of Specialty Foods

They just have the freshest produce! What local farm keeps you coming back for more?

Rebar: Modern Food (VICTORIA) Rebar Modern Food (VANCOUVER) ‘That’s Amore’ From Ricardo’s Kitchen (OKANAGAN)

Best Local Food Product or Ingredient

Need a fridge, chef?s knife, tablecloth, bag of beets or coffee? You’re not a fan of big-box shopping. Where do you go to buy it?

Tie: Madrona Farm & Michell Bros Farm (VICTORIA) Kin’s Farm (VANCOUVER) Harker’s Organics (OKANAGAN)

Best Local Cookbook

Best Locally-Owned (Food-Related) Store:

EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

Place to Buy Pie Oldfield Orchard (VICTORIA) Savary Island Pie Company (VANCOUVER) Tie: Britannia Pies, Robert's Fruit Market & Orchard (OKANAGAN) Pies. Meat pies. Glorious fruit pies. My, oh my savoury and sweet. When you aren’t in the mood to bake your own, where do you go to buy a pie fix? (and don’t say you go to your Mom’s)

You bow to the bean and are always on the prowl for the best macchiato, French press or Ethiopian heirloom bean. Name your favourite barista (or coffee shop) that keeps you from going cold turkey.

What’s Old is New Again Clive’s (VICTORIA) Tie: Pourhouse Vancouver | The Diamond (VANCOUVER) RauDZ Regional Table (OKANAGAN) Welcome back, gin & tonic; ciao, negroni; bonjours,Sazerac. Old school drinks are one of the hot new things on the cocktail scene. Which bar, lounge, or restaurant is doing them right?

The New Alchemists Shawn Soole - Clive’s (VICTORIA) Jay Jones - MARKET (VANCOUVER) Gerry Jobe - RauDZ Regional Table (OKANAGAN) Bartisans (bartender artisans) are coming up with modern, edgy kinds of drinking utopias and putting astonishing ingredients in a glass in new ways. Name your hero/heroine and the bar.

Spirited Moment Victoria Gin (VICTORIA) Victoria Gin (VANCOUVER) Okanagan Spirits (OKANAGAN) Who gets you to raise your glass for making the best local spirit?

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Cascadia Liquor (VICTORIA) Firefly Fine Wines and Ales (VANCOUVER) Tie: Cannery Brewing, Metro Liquor (OKANAGAN) IPA, wit, stout, Belgian, porter. Where do you buy the best quality selection?

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Virgin Vanilla Pear Ricky (Refuel) Bartender Jesse Walters makes it w/ pear purée, lime, vanilla bean & soda (VANCOUVER) Virgin Peach Bellini (Local Lounge) (OKANAGAN) Don’t mock this no-alcohol cocktail has come into its own. Who has made staying sober a beautiful thing?

Heads Ups Driftwood Fat Tug IPA (VICTORIA) Granville Island English Bay Pale Ale (VANCOUVER) Naramata Nut Brown Cannery Brewing (OKANAGAN) Impress your out-of-town host with a bottle of local beer. Name the local brew that has real beer wonks foaming over?

Fruit of Their Labours Merridale Cider (VICTORIA) Elephant Island Orchard Wines (VANCOUVER) Elephant Island Orchard Wines (OKANAGAN) Apples, pears, blackberries - whose cider or fruit wine do you groove to?

Place to Buy Wine BCL Fort & Foul (VICTORIA) Liberty Wine Merchants (VANCOUVER) Tie: BC VQA Wine Info Centre, Discover Wines (OKANAGAN) Wine. You want an excellent selection, a range of prices, and a personable, knowledgeable staff. What’s your recommendation?

Take a break from the kitchen

Great food, outstanding quality Prime Rib featured Thursday thru Saturday

Top Local Wine Zanatta (VICTORIA) Burrowing Owl VANCOUVER) Sumac Ridge Estate Winery (OKANAGAN)

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Top Local Beverage Driftwood Fat Tug IPA (VICTORIA) Driftwood Fat Tug IPA (VANCOUVER) Poplar Grove Cab Franc (OKANAGAN)

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This local beverage was, in a word, remarkable. Be it wine, beer, cider, tea, coffee you name it. What really impressed you this year? Tell us what it was and which company made it.

The Sticky Wicket & The Clubhouse at The Strathcona Hotel 919 Douglas Street Victoria BC 250.383.7137 www.strathconahotel.com

Fabulous features every day of the week! www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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The Next Big Thing

let’s give credit

Was there ever any doubt? Burgers of course. (VICTORIA) Macarons (VANCOUVER)

Eating local (OKANAGAN)

Food/Drink Experience of the Year Feast of Fields (VICTORIA)

Playhouse Wine Festival (VANCOUVER)

Food fashions come and go. Remember blackened fish? Cupcakes? Hibiscus flowers? Is it time for pork to stop hogging the spotlight? Say hello to the next big thing.

Feast of Fields (OKANAGAN) Events, festivals, and seminars on food and drink were everywhere the past year which one really did it for you?

Vancouver Is

Behind the CounterAward

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Ottavio (VICTORIA) Revolver Coffee (VANCOUVER)

Worst Trend of 2011

Local Lounge & Grille

Cupcakes (VICTORIA)

Vancouver

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Foam Sauces (VANCOUVER) Foam Sauces (OKANAGAN)

John Bi (Bishop

Who impressed you with their amazing customer service this year?

New, but simply awful, trend. Help us weed it out! What is it?

The Foodie’s Foodie Award

Leave No Footprint

EAT Magazine blush… (VICTORIA) Follow Me Foodie (VANCOUVER) Jennifer Schell-Pigott (OKANAGAN)

(VANCOUVER)

Who do you turn to learn from, keep you in the know or ask advice?

Red Fish Blue Fish (VICTORIA) Tie: Vancouver Farmers Markets | Ocean Wise

(OKANAGAN) What business, association or non-profit best promotes a sustainable food system?

Cooking Class or School

EAT Magazine double blush… (VICTORIA) Scout (VANCOUVER) Vine Vie (OKANAGAN)

The London Chef (VICTORIA) Dirty Apron (VANCOUVER) Mission Hill Culinary Workshops (OKANAGAN) Knife skills 101? Advanced pasta making? Bread basics?

Best New Restaurant, Shop, or Café The London Chef (VICTORIA) Hawksworth (VANCOUVER) Okanagan Street Food (OKANAGAN) Best new addition to the food and drink scene in 2011?

FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF WINNERS (INCLUDING HONOURABLE MENTIONS) PLEASE VISIT www.eatmagazine.ca and enter into Search: 2012 Exceptional Eats Results 18

EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

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Okanagan

Chef Peter Zambri A lifelong journey in pursuit of a passion for food. This is what drove chef Peter Zambri up through the kitchens of Toronto and Vancouver, into the endless gardens of the Sooke Harbour House, through the bustling cities of Southeast Asia and India, and finally, to his family's native Italy, where he lived and cooked for four years before returning to Vancouver Island. Peter opened Zambri's Restaurant with his sister Josephine in 1999. Since it's debut, Zambri's has prevailed as one of Victoria's favourite restaurants, while Peter and his team have earned an impressive collection of honours including Best Victoria Restaurant from Vancouver Magazine, and glowing reviews from Zagat, James Barber (The Urban Peasant), The Vancouver Sun and Saveur Magazine. Peter's palpable charisma and energy are evident in his creative delivery of Northern Italian country cuisine. He demonstrates the same enthusiasm towards mentoring his younger cooks, through participation in the Island Chef's Collaborative, and involvement in Victoria's newly opened Big Wheel Burger. With this Lifetime Achievement Award, EAT applauds Peter Zambri for his decades of commitment to mastering the art and craft of great food. Here's to many more! —Deanna Ladret

BC Bites & Beverages

Explore the history of the food and beverage industry in BC. Purchase one evening event or the full series and save.

Beer | Greg Evans, Brewing Historian | April 26, 2012 Join Greg and local brewers to taste award-winning beers and learn about British Columbia’s brewing history, from pioneers of the Gold Rush to the recent renaissance of craft brewing. Bounty from the Harvest | Sept 27, 2012 Food from the Home Front | Nov 8, 2012 Treats: Candy & Chocolate | Feb 14, 2013 Traditional First Nations Food | March 21, 2013 Wine & Cheese | May 23, 2013 Tickets available now for members online or at the box office. Public sales begin March 29.

#bcbevs www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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THE E

Congrat And a bi donated

VICTORIA Aura Waterf $25*) laurelp Sandi Heal Black Hat (W $250*) thebla Ian Yeung Cafe Brio ($7 Bridget Minis Canoe Brewp canoebrewpu Sarah Thornt Cascadia Liq cascadialiquo Lori McKenzi Chateau Vict One Night in Elissa Frankh Cook Culture Mackenzie W Flavour Resta - $250*) 590 Barbara Kahlo Hotel Grand dinner for two hotelgrandpac Karen Symmes Lifestyle Mar Tony Cheong London Chef thelondonchef Stephen Lee Lure at the D lurevictoria.co Robin Gary H Matticks Farm matticksfarm.c Lynne Carlso Niagara/Fai Basket) getfres Diane Maclac Ooh La La Cu oohlalacupcak Jayne Embree Root Cellar V www.therootce Jess Howard Silk Road (Te shop - $250* Glen Campbel Slaters Meat Lisbet Rygnest Village Butch Tanya Kirklan Wannawafe E. B. Klassen

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012


THE EE SPONSORS & DRAW WINNERS Congratulations to our 40 prize winners. And a big thank-you to all the sponsors who donated such wonderful prizes. VICTORIA Aura Waterfront Restaurant & Patio (2 x $25*) laurelpoint.com/dining/aura Sandi Heal Black Hat (Wagyu Tasting Dinner for Four $250*) theblackhat.ca Ian Yeung Cafe Brio ($75*) cafe-brio.com Bridget Minishka Canoe Brewpub ($75*) canoebrewpub.com Sarah Thornton Cascadia Liquor ($100*) cascadialiquor.com Lori McKenzie Chateau Victoria (Dinner at Vista 18 and One Night in a Suite) chateauvictoria.com Elissa Frankham Cook Culture ($200*) cookculture.com Mackenzie Wheeler Flavour Restaurant (3-course dinner for two - $250*) 590-7787 Barbara Kahlo Hotel Grand Pacific (One night stay and dinner for two in the Mark) hotelgrandpacific.com Karen Symmes Lifestyle Market ($50*) lifestylemarkets.com Tony Cheong London Chef (2 Interactive Classes*) thelondonchef.com Stephen Lee Lure at the Delta Victoria ($100*) lurevictoria.com Robin Gary Hicks Matticks Farm VQA ($30*) matticksfarm.com Lynne Carlson Niagara/Fairfield Grocery ($50* & Gift Basket) getfreshwithalocal.com Diane Maclachlan Ooh La La Cupcakes (3 x$30*) oohlalacupcakes.ca Jayne Embree Root Cellar Village Green Grocer ($75*) www.therootcellar.ca Jess Howard Silk Road (Tea Cocktails & Mocktails Workshop - $250*) silkroadtea.com Glen Campbell Slaters Meats ($25*) 250-592-0823 Lisbet Rygnestad Village Butcher ($25*) thevillagebutcher.ca Tanya Kirkland Wannawafel (2 x $25) wannawafel.com E. B. Klassen

VANCOUVER 131 Water ($50*) www.131water.com Landon Young BC Wine School Voucher for the WSET level 1 Course* bcwineschool.com Melanie Stitt Browns Restaurant Group ($100*) brownsrestaurantgroup.com T Pipes Diner No.1 ($50*) www.dinerone.com Alan Rae Edible at the Market ($100*) ediblecanada.com/bistro.php Barbara Borchardt eight 1/2 restaurant lounge ($50*) eightandahalf.ca Wing Hui Joey Restaurants ($100*) joeyrestaurants.com Eddy Tan Simply West Coast Sauces (10 sauces, t-short, ball cap) simplywestcoast.com Lonnie Temereski Teahouse and Seasons in the Park ($100*) vancouverdine.com Marjorie Stevens

Perfectly placed in the South Okanagan

P

erfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.

www.tinhorn.com

OKANAGAN Bench Market ($25*) thebenchmarket.com Valencia Curken Hotel El Dorado (Romance Package) hoteleldoradokelowna.com J Hopper Joie Farm (Magnum of Rose) joie.ca Tanis Sergeew Medici's Gelateria ($20*) medicisgelateria.ca Jessica Stelkia Okanagan Street Food ($50*) okanaganstreetfood.com Val Jenner Pentages (Sauvignon Blanc 08, Gamy 2010, Merlot 2006) pentage.com Kara Price Poppadoms ($50*) poppadoms.ca Harmonie Basso RauDZ ($25* + 2 martini cars) raudz.com/RAUDZ/home.html Stewart Glynes Theos Greek Restaurant ($50*) eatsquid.com Alena Zamorano Tree Brewing ($50*) treebeer.com Marilyn Lawton Waterfront Wine Bar & Restaurant ($100*) waterfrontrestaurant.ca *denotes gift certificate value Eve Layman

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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victoria

Eating Well for Less — by Elizabeth Smyth

Bintou Toure, owner and chef of Le Petit Dakar. right: Yassa au Poulet

Le Petit Dakar | 711 Douglas St. at Belleville | 250382-0287 Some spice has been added to the Victoria food scene with the arrival of Senegalese cuisine at Le Petit Dakar, across from the bus terminal on Douglas. Senegal is on the west coast of Africa and its food incorporates spices and aromatics such as cloves, cayenne and ginger (do order the fresh ginger juice) and ingredients like beans and zucchini. A French colony until 1960, when it gained its independence, Senegalese food still possesses something of a French influence, evident in the Domoda, or Senegalese beef bourguignon, a most basic of stews that may go over well with less adventurous palates and is in fact what my young daughter ate. I preferred the flavour burst of the Yassa au Poulet with Onions, a baked garlic and pepper chicken dish much like jerk chicken and served with a mound of fried onions over rice. The vegan black-eyed peas, a jaunty pile of beans tumbled with garlic, tomatoes and peppers, is scented with cloves. The vegetable curry, like everything else here, contains no processed foods or additives and its vegetable stock is made on site. The samosas made me moan aloud—flaky pastries stuffed with sweet potato, yam and curry seasoning and punctuated with a surprise of raisins. These are the owner Bintou Toure’s top seller and no surprise. This small café tucked into the Crystal Garden mainly does take-out, with menu items on rotation, so you might not always get the entrées I’ve listed. There are three tables if you want to sit down, but it’s very informal—just a place for a quick bite. While care may not have gone into the décor, because it’s not that kind of place, care has certainly gone into the food. Toure trained at Camosun and has included some vegan and gluten-free dishes, so there are many options. She was also sweet about letting us practice our French.

Apple Café | 2031 Store St. | 250-590-6177 Another new kid on the block is the Apple Café, tucked into a new health food store called Ingredients at Store and Discovery. This vegetarian café’s mission is to make all food as nutritious as possible. My absolute favourite savoury dish was the raw vegan sunflower almond flatbread pizza for $7.50. The base is a brilliant piece of alchemy—

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pureed almonds and flax dehydrated into a paste and then baked into a toothsome pizza base. This is spread with a creamy cashew “cheese,” then topped with a salsa of olives, sun-dried tomatoes and yellow peppers. The salty olives pair beautifully with the creamy nut paste, and the whole effect is lightened by pea sprouts draped over top. The other hit was the pasta special of Kildara Farm Rotini Alfredo with sheep milk Romano and green salad for $10. The rich, creamy cheese sauce was interspersed with bright, diced tomato, and the side salad included a colourful profusion of sprouts, shaved beets and carrots. Many of the foods I tried were both earnest and enticing; a couple were simply earnest but could be easily improved. The quesadilla of cabbage, cilantro, lime and roasted chipotle pepper ($12 with a salad) is made with sprouted rice and germinated pinto beans, two processes that make the foods easier to digest and the protein more accessible. A jolt more lime and chipotle will bring this dish out of “earnest” and into “enticing.” Desserts are inventive. “Almond dream bars” are made with coconut and almond paste and sweetened with xylitol, which is derived from birch bark. The raw vegan dark chocolate cheesecake seems to defy gravity; cashews are soaked, sweetened and whipped into a froth that’s piled onto a nutty crust and capped with a fudgy topping. This café was only three weeks old when I visited, so the menu is still being adapted and fine-tuned; it is certainly worth a visit to see what clever things they may be doing with raw food and to visit the spacious health food store.

Clive’s Classic Lounge | Chateau Victoria Hotel | 740 Burdett Ave. | 250.361.5684 At Clive’s Classic Lounge, we leave the vegan scene for the meat-loving Mad Men scene (though don’t get me wrong—you can get a salad.). When you go for lunch, the focus of this report, you get lounge food basics with some quality details. And you get to enjoy a soothing, quiet and comfortable atmosphere (again, at lunch, not during its more hopping evening cocktail scene). This is a place to linger and relax into a conversation with a long-lost friend. And you can enjoy this privilege for the cost of a $10 meal. The food is classic, just like the lounge; nothing fancy but tasty. A favourite is the Crispy Farmhouse Chicken Sandwich done Italian-style, with the chicken fried a dark golden brown, like a good schnitzel. It’s topped with basil aioli and a slice of tomato— a healthy-looking tomato, mind you, not a tragic, limp tomato. This is noteworthy since the sandwich, with its accompanying scoop of coleslaw, is only $9. I hit the jackpot with the daily special, the lamb burger. It was an inch thick and extremely juicy.

Rebecca Wellman

Rebecca Wellman

Rebecca Wellman

Raw vegan sunflower almond flatbread pizza with raw olives, peppers, cashew cheese, sundried tomato sauce, spinach, tomatoes. Dessert is orange chocolate cake with a lemon macaroon crust.

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Rebecca Wellman

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left: Nate Caudle of Clives. ). He made his own Saskatoon berry liqueur for the Saskatoon Julep pictured above. The smear of blue cheese on top is Roaring 40s Blue from Ottavio’s, a classy touch for a bar basic. This is also $9, including the side of coleslaw; for $3 more, you can get a side of fries or salad. I’m wondering if a petition would get this onto the main menu. For those not in a meat mood, the enormous Everything Salad for $11 has standard mixed greens with baby tomatoes, slivered red onions, a quarter of an avocado and pea shoots, tossed with a creamy Dijon dressing. And, of course, you may just be there for a quiet lunch far from the madding crowd, but nothing is stopping you from ordering one of Clive’s famous classic cocktails to go with it. I assure you it will be worth the effort.

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www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

23


reporter

West has long been a benchmark for cutting-edge West Coast cuisine, right from its celebrated beginnings when David Hawksworth manned the kitchen. Now Quang Dang, formerly of C Restaurant and Diva at the Met, has moved his EC toque to the place where he started his career (as a junior sous chef) and has re-imagined the menu into something that goes well beyond the over-sung mantra of “fresh, local, sustainable.” Transparent brandied truffle gel cuts the salt in—and adds richness to—a traditional amuse of Kusshi oyster in the half shell topped with Northern Divine sustainable caviar from Sechelt. Thiessen Farm quail is marinated in thyme, then grilled and served as a starter with chanterelle tortellini and roasted Brussels sprouts ($18.50). Charred Vancouver Island octopus off the tasting menu ($76 for eight plates) is dressed with barigoule vinaigrette (think artichokes, mushrooms, onions) and sided with marinated vegetables from Pemberton. One of the biggest menu changes is the new collection of smaller sharing plates, available at the bar or in the dining room. These range from a simple, but astounding North Arm Farm beet salad with hazelnuts and parsley pistou ($8) to delicate gnocchi in sage brown butter and parmesan ($9), and barely-holding-it-together braised beef short ribs with red onion marmalade. The menu isn’t the only thing that’s changed. The room has been redone, with an ear (excuse the pun) for better acoustics. The noise level is more muted now, thanks to undulating mirrored ceiling panels. Fabric-covered walls with elaborate leather cutouts mimic the subtle pattern carved into the white Caesarstone tables. And while the white tablecloths may be gone, the service, under Restaurant Manager Brian Hopkins, is still the elegant pas des deux that West is famous for, and is more than matched by Bar Manager David Wolowidnyk’s smooth, barrel-aged cocktails and the stellar wine selections (like my Sauvignon Blanc from the Gascon coast) offered by Wine Director Owen Knowlton. Other restaurants may be “dining down” to casual, but it’s nice to see that some restaurants are still waving their fine dining—and drinking— flag with panache. —By Anya Levykh

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

Tracey Kusiewicz

West | 881 Granville Street @13th | Vancouver | 604.738.8938

Tracey Kusiewicz

Chef Quang Dang’s charred Vancouver Island octopus

Pronto 604.722

Angela Maid on the menu judgement a Okay, only t only flipped grilled. It ma back for on s Pronto is p from Pied-à-T snuggled its warm, wood open kitchen As for the main with ro roaster that i into juicy cu throughout roasted garli from beef fio are also mad last visit. The beer a craft brews a able by glass thing is reas Prosecco opt ($9 each) ma I’m missing —By Anya


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R E S TA U R A N T

-

MARTINI & WINE BAR

Even our Chefs are locally grown! Angela Maida slicing porchetta

TOP FLOOR - CHATEAU VICTORIA HOTEL - 740 BURDETT AVE CALL US AT 250.382.9258 OR VISIT WWW.VISTA18.COM

Reservations Recommended

Pronto Caffe | 3473 Cambie St, Vancouver | 604.722.9331 Angela Maida is a woman of excellent taste. Before I had even tried a single item on the menu of her recently-opened Pronto Caffe, I knew I could trust her culinary judgement after she took a provolone sandwich and turned it inside-out—literally. Okay, only the bun was inside-out, but that was enough. The soft baguette was not only flipped, but then pesto was added to the new exterior before being stuffed and grilled. It made for an incredibly delicious and perfectly textured meal, one I’ve gone back for on several occasions. Pronto is part of the new culinary mecca that is South Cambie. A stone’s throw away from Pied-à-Terre, Benton Brothers Fine Cheeses, Las Tortas, et al, this licensed café has snuggled itself into the neighbourhood like a cozy bowl of polenta. The room is a warm, wood-panelled rectangle of comfortable padded booths, gleaming counters and open kitchen. As for the food, the house specialty is the porchetta, served in a sandwich or as a main with roasted rosemary potatoes. The porchetta is made in-house, a giant rolled roaster that is hauled out and sliced thick to order. For the sandwich, it gets chopped into juicy cubes, effectively distributing the considerable crackling as manageable bites throughout the sandwich. The aforementioned provolone is another hit, with its roasted garlic and red pepper filling. Daily pasta and main features cover everything from beef fiorentino to linguine with artichokes, asparagus, capers and olives. Desserts are also made in-house, like the simple but tasty raspberry panna cotta I tried on my last visit. The beer and wine list is equally brief and matches the food well. A couple local craft brews and the obligatory Peroni complete the hops list, while the wines (available by glass and bottle) cover Italy, Chile, Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. Everything is reasonably priced (only one bottle heads over the $40 mark) and of the two Prosecco options, one is Veneto’s organic offering. The charcuterie and cheese plates ($9 each) make great sides to a few glasses of Masi’s Campofiorin, and the only thing I’m missing here is a little moscato to go with dessert. Maybe a little d’Asti? —By Anya Levykh

The whole beast

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local kitchen

eeky Fish Nuets & Duck Fries WITH AIOLI

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012


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Doughnut Holes

YOUR FRY DAY STARTS HERE

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER • Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY • Wine pairing by TREVE RING

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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Cont’d from pg. 27

This is a cheeky dinner, really. A fun ode to our favourite fish + chips, but made at home. Meaty halibut cheeks (easier on the wallet than fillets) are enrobed in an airy tempura coat. They demand to be eaten with fries! And not just any fries. But fries made richer, bolder and dare I say, even fattier thanks to a dip in duck fat rather than straight-up oil. And to make this meal a triumvirate of deep-fried fun, wind down with explosive jelly-filled doughnut holes.

Cheeky

Batter + hot ful! Keep yo towels or pa

2/3 cup all-p 1/3 cup corn 1 tsp finely ½ tsp salt Pinch of ba 1 egg 1 cup cold s 1 lb halibut Sea salt and Vegetable o

In a large b bowl, whisk blended. A fe thin with a l

Pour oil into thermomete oil – it shoul

The secret is to cook these plump spuds long and low until they are meltingly tender, then jack up the heat. Seems a weird and wrong thing to do, but try it. Serves 4

Generously at a time, di with a few p light golden as soon as po

2 large potatoes (I can never get past Yukon Gold for these) Duck fat* Fresh thyme sprigs 2 chili peppers (optional) Sea Salt

Quick Aiol Stir ¾ cup m in juice from hot sauce.

Chubby Duck Fries

Melt duck fat in a non-stick frying pan set over low heat. At this point, you just want to liquefy the fat, not really heat it. Meanwhile, scrub potatoes, then cut (leave peel on) into thick batons. Rinse well, then shake off excess water. If you have extra time, soak the fries in frigidly cold water for 30 minutes. Arrange potatoes in a single layer – or close to that – in bottom of pan. Be sure they are covered with melted fat. If you need, top it up with a trifle of vegetable oil. Potatoes tend to stick to the bottom of the pan – I had the best success when using a non-stick pan. Cook, uncovered, over low heat until potatoes are tender (you can tell because they’ll start to look translucent), 20 to 30 minutes. Be sure to gently stir often to avoid sticking. Increase heat to medium-medium high (constantly monitor temperature!) and fry until crispy and deep golden. Add a few sprigs of thyme and chilis towards end of cooking (careful – the oil will splutter). Remove fries, as they are done, and place on paper to absorb excess oil. Sprinkle generously with sea salt, then crumble fried thyme leaves overtop. *Local Duck Fat? Can’t vouch for where the poor ducks actually shed the pounds, but you can buy duck fat at local shops such as the Village Butcher, Ottavio or Choux Choux.

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012


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Cheeky Fish Nuggets

Explosive Doughnut Holes

Batter + hot oil really like each other. Skin + hot oil don't get on so well. Please be careful! Keep your work area clean, have tongs on hand and baking sheet lined with towels or paper to place hot fish on before you start cooking.

These are best eaten slightly warm but can be made a few hours before serving. Grab a jar of jelly or jam from your pantry (homemade from summer berries of course!) for the filling – if using a chunky jam, be sure to finely chop the bits – it will make your life easier! Be generous when filling - it's OK if they explode! Makes 20 doughnut holes.

2/3 cup all-purpose flour 1/3 cup cornstarch 1 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme ½ tsp salt Pinch of baking soda 1 egg 1 cup cold soda water 1 lb halibut cheeks Sea salt and black pepper Vegetable oil In a large bowl, stir flour with cornstarch, thyme, salt and baking soda. In a small bowl, whisk egg. Stir in soda water, then pour over flour mixture and stir just until blended. A few lumps are OK. Let batter stand for 10 minutes. If batter looks too thick, thin with a little soda or if too thin, stir in a spoonful of flour. Pour oil into a deep heavy saucepan and set over medium heat. If you have a deep fry thermometer, heat to 350F. Otherwise, to test readiness, drop a cube of bread into hot oil – it should sizzle and turn golden quickly. Generously season halibut cheeks with sea salt and pepper. Working with one piece at a time, dip fish in batter and generously coat. Carefully lower into hot oil. Repeat with a few pieces of fish – don’t overcrowd pan – work in batches. Cook until batter is light golden and turn occasionally for even browning. Blot cooked fish on paper. Serve as soon as possible. Dish up with Quick Aioli (see below) and you favourite hot sauce.

Quick Aioli Stir ¾ cup mayo with 1 Tbsp Dijon. Finely chop 2 green onions and stir in. Squeeze in juice from half a lemon. Taste. Like it? Spice it up with a few dashes of your favourite hot sauce.

2 cups all-purpose flour 3 Tbsp sugar 11/2 Tbsp baking powder Pinches of salt 1 cup whole milk ¼ cup butter, melted 1 egg 2 tsp vanilla extract Vegetable oil Granulated sugar, for dusting 11/2 cups jam or jelly 1n a large bowl, whisk flour with sugar, baking powder and salt. Gently warm milk (you don’t want to boil) and stir in butter until melted. In a small bowl whisk egg, then whisk in vanilla. Whisk in a little warm milk mixture, then gradually whisk in remainder. Pour over dry mixture and stir to mix. Batter will be thick. Pour oil into a deep frying pan and set over medium heat. If you have a deep fry thermometer, heat to 350F. Otherwise, to test readiness, drop a little dough into hot oil – it should sizzle. Using a spoon, drop balls of batter, about a heaping Tbsp, at a time, into hot oil (be careful!). Do not crowd pan. It’s best to work in batches. Fry until dough turns deep golden, 2 to 3 minutes, turning over halfway through cooking. Adjust heat as necessary so oil stays consistently hot. To test for doneness, remove a ball. Balls should have a crisp crust and the centre should be cooked through to the centre. Carefully remove cooked doughnuts balls and let drain on paper. While warm, coat holes with sugar. Fill a piping bag with jam (less chunky the better). Insert pastry tip into each ball and wiggle to create more space. Squeeze in jam. Reroll in sugar.

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What to drink? Chubby, cheeky and explosive? Bring on the beer. Go for a flavour packed, fresh and local brew – Driftwood White Bark and Hoyner Pilsner come to mind for their pure refreshing character. —Treve Ring

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012


producer series

F Sea Veggies

Three pioneers of the Island’s edible seaweed industry are harvesting these unique plants with care and commitment BY REBECCA BAUGNIET

bull kelp (Nereocystis)

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

green, paper where there seaweed pro a wealth of botanist Lou untapped re ingredients, concentrated and magnes vitamins (A, Here on V biologist are the Island’s business aro to include lo

Westcoast S Brad Carey i was looking scallops for N could bring plant before that what he a mix of fresh Carey discov days on land years of harv the water to his own busi Carey’s pas the plant.” “ family (Salico ‘sampiere’ in weed, or sea that the Ha including se Today, it is from home asparagus ca crispy green to seafood d 45 seconds) harvests is s product thro June throug harvest is ei available in store.

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or millennia, coastal inhabitants around the world have included a variety of edible seaweed in their diets. For contemporary urban dwellers, however, the only seaweed most of us have ever tasted is nori—the dark green, papery sheets used to wrap sushi. The nori that we eat is imported from Asia, where there is a longstanding appreciation for sea vegetables and the manufacturing of seaweed products is highly developed. While the coasts of British Columbia also share a wealth of seaweed (more than 600 identified species according to Bamfield marine botanist Louis Druehl in his book Pacific Seaweeds), sea vegetables remain a largely untapped resource in our kitchens. Not only are they incredibly versatile, flavourful ingredients, however. Seaweeds also offer unparalleled health benefits through their concentrated supply of minerals (high quality sodium chloride, iodine, iron, calcium and magnesium), nutrients (heart and liver strengthening phytochemicals) and vitamins (A, E, C, B2 and B15). Here on Vancouver Island, a former salmon fisherman, a politician and a marine biologist are linked by a common dedication to these unique plants. All are pioneers in the Island’s edible seaweed industry. Each has built their own successful, innovative business around edible seaweeds and are introducing Canadians to more enticing ways to include local sea vegetables into their own diet.

Westcoast Seaweed Brad Carey is the founding owner of Westcoast Seaweed. The former salmon fisherman was looking to expand his work season when he started harvesting sea cucumbers and scallops for North Douglas Distributors in 1991. It was there that he was first asked if he could bring in some sea asparagus (salicornia virginica). Carey had never heard of the plant before but figured if it was in the ocean, he’d look for it. His employer explained that what he was looking for wouldn’t exactly be found in the ocean but where there was a mix of fresh and salt water (intertidal marshes). After finding a suitable spot to harvest, Carey discovered that the work complemented the rest of his schedule—divers need days on land to “off gas,” and on those days, he could harvest sea asparagus. After a few years of harvesting the plant for other distributors, Carey took some time away from the water to complete a few business courses at UVic. In 2001, he was ready to launch his own business. Carey’s passion for sea asparagus is obvious—he describes himself as a “voice piece for the plant.” “The variety we find off the coasts of B.C. belongs to the same scientific subfamily (Salicornioideae) as the plants known as ‘swampfire’ on the east coast of the U.S., ‘sampiere’ in France, and ‘samphire’ in the U.K. It has also been referred to as picklingweed, or sea bean.” Recent research in the Gwaii Haanas Marine Area found evidence that the Haida made intertidal gardens to collect a variety of plants and shellfish, including sea asparagus. Today, it is a specialty food, though Westcoast Seaweed is receiving increased interest from home cooks wanting to experiment with the plant in their own kitchens. Sea asparagus can be served fresh, sautéed or pickled. It offers a pleasant alternative to other crispy green vegetables such as green beans or asparagus and is a suitable accompaniment to seafood dishes. To reduce its salty flavour, Carey recommends quick blanching (3045 seconds), warning against overcooking. Eighty percent of the sea asparagus he harvests is sold fresh to restaurants, with between 40 and 50 chefs requesting his product throughout the summer season. The plant is harvested from the beginning of June through to the third week of August. The remaining 20 percent of his seasonal harvest is either pickled or pre-blanched and frozen. Westcoast Seaweed products are available in season at restaurants and specialty food shops, or direct from the online store. Outer Coast Seaweeds Diane Bernard is known by many simply as “the Seaweed Lady.” With a background in criminology, Bernard spent the early part of her career involved in politics. Always a social activist, her focus was on local economic development, and she soon began to study the problems around the way we use our natural resources. In 1999, she decided

to apply the lessons she had been teaching to her own life – take a wild resource and develop it to its utmost potential (or, in economy-speak, “value add”). Seaweed was a natural choice for Bernard, who has roots in both the Magdalen Islands (Îles de la Madeleine) and a small Acadian community in New Brunswick. She still feels this strong maritime family influence, and remembers how her aunt would serve favourite seaweed recipes at the family table. In 2001, with six local chefs, including then Sooke Harbour House chef Edward Tuson, on board, Diane founded Outer Coast Seaweeds with the goal of providing wild seaweeds for culinary use. Her harvest has been served in raw seaweed salads at the Sooke Harbour House, made into pesto and folded into bread at Cooper’s Cove Guesthouse. Bernard cites Nancy Turner, an eminent ethnobotanist at UVic, as an excellent source of knowledge as she was learning about the different plants. She also spent time researching local seaweed in the Royal British Columbia Museum archives. Ten years later, she spouts facts with ease (did you know that the bull kelp found off our coasts is the fasting growing plant on earth? It can grow up to 30 metres in eleven months). She is also a frequent speaker at international algae society meetings. Outer Coast Seaweeds is the first USDA certified organic seaweed company in North America. Diane explains how this certification process was unique, as seaweed has a different cell structure from land vegetation. Seaweed does not root; it has a holdfast, so there is no exchange of nutrients from the soil and the plant, only between the water and the plant. For this reason, the water must undergo testing on a regular basis. Outer Coast specializes in eight different kinds of edible seaweed, including sea lettuce (ulva), feather boa seaweed (Egregia menziesii) and winged kelp (Alaria marginata), and has provided seaweed to both the provincial and federal Government House kitchens for special occasions, including the emperor of Japan’s visit in 2009. Outer Coast is also the parent company for Sea Flora, a seaweed-based skincare line that Bernard refers to as “food for your skin.” In 2011, the company opened a brand-new seaweed processing facility in Sooke. Dakini Tidal Wilds From May to October you can find Amanda Swinimer in the water harvesting two varieties of kelp – winged kelp (Alaria marginata) and bull kelp (Nereocystis) for her homebased business, Dakini Tidal Wilds. Winged kelp involves wading in knee- to chest-deep water at the lowest tides of the moon cycle, while to harvest the bull kelp she must swim offshore. Both provide the opportunity for impressive encounters with nature. In addition to seeing orcas and stellar sea lions, Swinimer has swum with salmon fry so thick she couldn’t see through the cloud of fish, and multicoloured comb jellies with lights that rippled through them. This will be her 10th season harvesting from the same “garden.” Once harvested, she hangs the kelp to dry on cedar racks in a garage she has converted to a licensed processing plant. Drying seaweed, she explains, is a bit of an art form. You’re really curing it, she tells me, and you need a controlled temperature and constant airflow. Swinimer combines her knowledge of marine biology with a passion for the traditional use of native plants. When I ask her to tell me her favourite way to prepare the seaweed, she tells me of a First Nations method for wrapping salmon in winged kelp before baking. The kelp becomes a crispy shell while the fish stays incredibly moist. Swinimer harvests 20 kinds of seaweed for her family’s personal use and recommends using winged or bull kelp as a substitute for spinach in a vegetarian or seafood lasagna. Dakini Tidal Wild’s winged kelp is used to make the Cowichan Pasta Company’s Wakame Spaghetti and is also served in dishes at Café Bliss. Her dried seaweed is available in independent grocery stores throughout B.C., but also directly from her website. Swinimer, Carey and Bernard all encourage wild harvesting of seaweed, but each one stresses that some knowledge of algae physiology is crucial to sustainable harvesting. In addition, you want to be sure you are harvesting from uncontaminated water. Both Outer Coast Seaweeds and Dakini Tidal Wilds offer educational tours and seminars. Visit websites for more information. Westcoast Seaweed Inc., 3140 Cook St., Victoria, 250-812-6691, www.westcoastseaweed.com Outer Coast Seaweeds, 1-877-713-7464, www.sea-flora.com Dakini Tidal Wilds, 250-818-4633 www.dakinitidalwilds.com

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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appy hour master cooking class

Simple, savoury appetizers are an unfussed way to entertain a gang.

freshly baked gougères will have your kitchen smelling like a bakery

Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT Photography by CAROLINE WEST

32 EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012


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very Sunday I have guests for dinner—13 if you count the noisy kids. I don’t have a table long enough for all of us, so the giggly, lanky ones sit at the table and the adults huddle around the kitchen island and we sip, chat and nibble our way through an array of appetizers until dinner is ready. Often, appetizers are the dinner. Either way, it’s a loud, disorderly affair that I look forward to each week because I’m enjoying my friends, not fussing over food. If you like low-maintenance entertaining, these simple appetizers just might convince you to open your doors more often: fresh-from-the-oven gougères (pronounced goo-zhairs), fragrant marinated olives with goat cheese and beef carpaccio with freshly dressed greens. Gougères are ingenious little pastries that are light and airy with a sweet and nutty smack of gruyère cheese. Crisp on the outside, almost hollow on the inside, they are delicious served warm, au naturel, or gussied up with a filling of shrimp and dill, curried chicken or smoked salmon to name but a few. Gougères are made from choux (pronounced shoe) pastry or pâte à choux. The mixture, more of a sticky batter than malleable dough, is spooned onto a tray or piped from a pastry bag (if you insist on perfectly shaped puffs), and baked. I freeze them unbaked and then bake them fresh before guests arrive for an “ohh” and “ahh” appetizer that will have your kitchen smelling like a bakery. Once you’ve mastered choux pastry, you can make all sorts of dangerous treats, including Dauphine potatoes (mashed potatoes mixed with choux pastry and deepfried—I warned you), Parisienne-style gnocchi, cream-filled profiteroles, éclairs and beignets. There’s even a choux-based cake, Gâteau St. Honeré, affectionately named after the patron saint of bakers. There isn’t a more versatile dough. If you don’t consider olives a worthy appetizer, warm, marinated olives infused with chilies, herbs, citrus and spice will change your mind. Gently heating the olives in oil intensifies their flavour and imbues them with aromatics that have been known to convert olive skeptics into olive lovers. I keep a large Mason jar of marinated olives in my fridge ready to reheat whenever guests show up at my door. The olives keep for ages and the flavoured oil is enough reason to keep it on hand; I use it for salad dressings, roast potatoes, crostini and anything else that needs a potent earthy boost. Goat cheese and olives are a delicious duo, especially when the cheese (room temperature, please) is drizzled with oil steeped with mustard seeds, fennel, thyme and peppercorns. Served with a baguette or crackers, this appetizer never fails to please. Think carpaccio of beef is for restaurants only? I serve it for impromptu kitchen parties because nothing could be easier, and there’s no special equipment involved, other than a sharp knife and some plastic wrap. Simply slice a small piece of raw beef tenderloin, place it between two sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound the beef (the bottom of a small saucepan does nicely) until the tenderloin is paper-thin. Remove the top layer of plastic and invert the exposed beef onto a plate. This can be done hours in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to use. Just before serving, each fillet is topped with a simple salad, shaved Parmesan, freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of fleur de sel. Even if your guests are squeamish about rare meat, one bite of the sweet, melt-in-the-mouth fillet will change their minds and have them marvelling at your ingenuity. With appetizers like these, you’ll find lots of excuses to invite guests over. FIND THE RECIPES ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES

WINE PAIRING Appetizers and sparkling go together like salt and pepper. If you’re feeling flush, you can’t go wrong with champagne. If you’re feeling flat, look to Cava or Prosecco. Of course, you shouldn’t skip over BC’s sparkling wines – crisp examples from Vancouver and the Gulf Islands, the Fraser Valley and the Okanagan would bring this global appetizer class back home. —Treve Ring

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

33


Gougères Makes about 45 gougères.

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Preheat oven to 375°F. In a medium-sized saucepan, combine the milk, water, butter, salt and sugar. Bring the mixture to a full boil. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan. If using a stand-up mixer, transfer the dough to the mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. If mixing by hand, use a wooden spoon. Add the eggs to the dough, one at a time, ensuring each egg is well incorporated before adding another. You may not need all five eggs. After the fourth egg has been incorporated, check the consistency of the dough: the mixture is ready when the dough forms a thick ribbon from your spoon, or paddle. If the mixture is too firm, add another egg. Add the grated cheese. If using a pastry bag, spoon the dough into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Pipe round mounds about 1½ inches in diameter onto a lined baking sheet, leaving an inch or two between each mound. (If not using a pastry bag, simply spoon the dough onto a lined baking sheet.) Brush the top of each mound with the beaten egg. Note: if using a pastry bag, each mound of dough will have a small peak created by the piping tip (think soft ice cream)—gently press down the peak with a fork or fingertip to create a smooth mound. Set aside for 15 minutes before baking. Reduce the temperature to 350°F and bake for about 20 to 30 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through the baking. Test one gougère to ensure it is cooked in the centre. If the mixture is cooked on the outside, but not the inside, turn the oven off and leave the pastries in until cooked all the way through. Watch carefully, as your oven will still be hot. Remove to a rack to cool slightly before serving.

Marinated Olives and Goat Cheese Serves 8 to 10.

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

Olive Marinade 2 cups assorted olives 1 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 sprigs each of rosemary and thyme 2 fresh red chilies 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 bay leaves 2 large pieces lemon peel from a clean, organic lemon Cheese Marinade 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 Tbsp peppercorns 1 tsp dried thyme 1/2 lb soft goat cheese, at room temperature Place the olive marinade ingredients in a medium saucepan and warm over low heat until aromatic, approximately 30 to 40 minutes.

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Pour about a third of a cup of the warm, herb-infused oil into a separate small saucepan. Lightly crush the mustard, fennel and peppercorns and add them, along with the thyme, to the oil. Allow the herbs to infuse the oil, on low heat, approximately 15 minutes. Allow to cool slightly*. Place the goat cheese in the centre of a small platter and surround it with the marinated olives. Pour the oil and crushed herbs over the cheese. Garnish the platter with the marinated peppers, lemon peel and rosemary. Serve with a baguette or crackers. *The oil marinade should not be warm enough to melt the cheese.

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Carpaccio de Boeuf Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer. 7 oz beef tenderloin fillet, chilled Salad greens Dressing ½ cup grapeseed oil and 2 Tbsp white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp shallots, sliced 3.5 oz Parmesan shavings Freshly ground pepper Fleur de sel Using a sharp knife, carefully cut the chilled beef into thin slices. Place the sliced beef on a sheet of plastic wrap and cover with another layer of plastic wrap. Gently pound the beef (the bottom of a pot works well) to flatten the meat until it is paper-thin. Remove the top layer of plastic and invert the exposed beef onto a plate. If you are not serving immediately, leave on the (remaining) plastic wrap until ready to serve. (This can be done hours in advance and stored in the refrigerator until ready to use.) Just before serving, remove the plastic wrap from each fillet. Whisk the grapeseed oil and vinegar together. Top each fillet with a simple salad dressed with the vinaigrette, sliced shallots, shaved Parmesan, freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of fleur de sel.

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1175 Ellis Street, Kelowna BC Beside the Historic Train Station (Ellis & Cawston) (778) 484-5656 | metroliquor.com

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Think World Class. Eat Local.

Whether it’s a favourite watering hole-in-the-wall or a great spot to not be seen (being seen is so last decade), look no further than the group of jam-packed blocks that call themselves the down of town. Breakfast In the 500 block of Bernard Street is the sunshine-y Bohemian Café & Catering Company. Entirely worth standing in line for, sharing a table, or queuing up at the cash register. Bennies, omelettes, granola, or a side of bacon (you know you want it), this is free-range, homemade, and all delicious. Busy in there? Really, share a table. You’ll meet great people. Near the Bohemian is the Mad Mango Café. Okay, the secret is already out with this one – but it’s really tasty. Also doing the breakfast/lunch thing on the must-eat-this-food list is The Bread Company (frittata!) on Bernard, Duncan’s Bistro (panini!) on Lawrence Ave, and The Bike Shop Café & Catering on Ellis Street – hello, $5 breakfast sandwiches. Aforementioned spots aside, there’s also a burgeoning coffee scene in the city of Kelowna. Words like ‘fair trade’ and ‘locally roasted’ roll off the tip of the tongue. Great places to grab a good cuppa are The Bean Scene Coffee House (200 block of Bernard) with their comfy sofas and vintage sideboard, and GiObean Espresso (selfproclaimed “coffee the Italian way”) a bit farther along Water Street. And in the newly reclaimed area of Ellis Street is The Cannery Coffee Company, providing a touch of sophistication at midday. We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the Streaming Café (500 block Leon Ave). They take two things very seriously: java, and sharing tunes. A stellar coffee house by day becomes a sweet spot to catch live music on Saturday nights. Best of both worlds. Lunch To funk things up, there’s The Rotten Grape Wine & Tapas Bar in the heart of things on Bernard Street. Fun, easy, and uber-cool, the Rotten Grape is the place to be to share small plates and sip local wines; it’s now open for both lunch and dinner. A few blocks away, find the Green Room Bistro (Ellis Street) in the heart of the Arts District– with its awesome patio, local wine list and the Okanagan’s only singing servers. Back on Bernard Street, Soban Korean Bistro (500 Block) serves up delectable fish tacos or Korean B-bop. The Twisted Tomato (300 Block) does a cool lunch, delectable dinner, and that rare thing called brunch – when it’s socially acceptable to bubbleup your OJ. No judgement here. And the best spot to grab some good barbeque (and have a nip of bourbon) has to be the Vancouver-originated Memphis Blues BBQ House. (300 block)

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Dinner Wasabi Izakaya on Pandosy can satisfy your sushi craving – and then some. A traditional “Izakaya” (loosely translated as a Japanese version of tapas), Wasabi provides several excuses to linger as the plates keep coming. On Ellis Street (1300-1400 Block), find La Bussola (Italian fine dining), the newly renovated Dawett (Indian cuisine) or catch dinner-and-a-show at the Kelowna Actor’s Studio. Home grown talent from kitchen to stage. Local, sustainable, innovative, communal – all are apt words to describe RauDZ in the 1500 block of Water Street. With mixologists crafting the finest cocktails and chef Rod Butters keeping a keen eye on what’s in season, RauDZ is a great place to feel the local vibe – especially at their communal table. If you’re looking for French cuisine, then Bouchon’s on Sunset Drive (a 2 minute walk from the Delta) might be for you. This classic brasserie offers familiar dishes like fois gras, bouillabaise, and organic chicken coq-au-vin, among other tasty delicacies. Dinners only, with a killer wine list and magnetic ambiance. Another favourite Kelowna haunt on Sunset is Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar. Fresh from a substantial renovation (twice the original size), more fans can now sample the inspired local flavours of Chef Mark Filatow. —By Jeannette Montgomery

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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wine + terroir - By Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris

APPROACH THE BENCH Hester Creek Estate Winery proudly presents The Judge

A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Extensive barrel aging delivers a wine that is complex, big and bold.

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

Vino in Vogue The wine world is continually offering up new experiences, but we have to put aside our favourites to sample them. Like fashion, wine goes through trends but we are often more reluctant to embrace something new. While there is nothing wrong with Pinot Grigio and Malbec, there are plenty of other fascinating wines that deserve your attention. One of our greatest pleasures when travelling to cutting edge cities is visiting places like Terroir in San Francisco or Bar Jamón in New York to discover the latest in wine. But you don’t have to jump on a plane to find something fun to drink. British Columbia is filled with passionate people who import and list great wine. We asked top sommeliers and wine buyers what excites them these days. With its enormous variety of grapes and regions, Italy is an endless source of discovery. While once associated with bulk production and plonk wine, southern Italy is really starting to reveal its potential. “Unique wines with character are what excite me,” enthuses Terry Threlfall, sommelier at Hawksworth restaurant, “and Italy is the first place that comes to mind, especially Sicily. They are now producing some wonderful wines.” Sicily’s indigenous varieties are the perfect vehicle to express the country’s unique terroir. Fear not their unfamiliar names. Flagship grape Nero d’Avola has already become a fixture on our shelves, and Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of Mount Etna has trickled in more recently. Ever heard of Frappato? Michaela was raving about it when she returned from her travels in Sicily last year. Threlfall recently added the Frappato from COS to his wine list so now you can actually taste this wellkept secret. Threlfall is equally passionate about Spain, specifically citing the regions of Bierzo, Toro and Ribera del Duero. This is a reflection of the recent revival of forgotten grapes and regions. Dedicated producers, like Telmo Rodríguez, are passionate about bringing abandoned vineyards back to life. He is also encouraging local workers who know the area like the back of their hand to join his crusade. He has made inroads in Málaga as well as Cebreros in the Castilla y León area. From Cebreros, watch for his Pegaso Granito, made from 100 percent Garnacha vines planted at high altitudes. Note, there are no cars there apparently, just donkeys. Talk about reviving abandoned areas! Neighbouring Portugal is just as exciting and value and charm never lack. The region of Vinho Verde is known for cheap and cheerful wine. While we love them; we’re anxious to see more of the higher quality wines. A recent tasting with Rui Falcão, a wine writer and ambassador for Portuguese wines, reminded us that a more sophisticated side of Vinho Verde does exist. As for Portugal’s reds, names of indigenous varieties like Castelão and Touriga Nacional don’t roll off the tongue, but don’t let that deter you. It’s all about the character they deliver in the glass. While we wait for more of these wines to grace our shelves, you can start practising these names while sipping on Crasto’s Old Vines Reserva from the Douro region. Cool and hip doesn’t necessarily mean obscure. In New World countries, savvy winemakers are looking beyond the varieties that made them famous and exploring new regions. In Chile (where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns king), the latest buzz is Syrah planted in the northern valleys of Elqui and Límari. Pamela Sanderson, regional manager for Cascadia Liquor in Victoria, reminds us that you don’t have to look far away to stay on top of the trends. While the Okanagan Valley dominates the wine scene here in B.C., she shines the spotlight on Pinot Noir from Vancouver Island and beyond. “There are too many wines to list that I like from Saanich, the Gulf Islands and the Cowichan Valley, but for me, 2009 really stood out!” In particular, Sanderson recommends Averill Creek and Starling Lane. True to fashion’s ebbs and flows, certain wines that were once all the rage have become passé. Luckily, some favourites from the past have enjoyed a revamp and are gaining the support of the trade. “I’m loving the rebirth, resurgence and re-acquaintance of two maligned, misunderstood and misrepresented giants: Beaujolais and Australia,” asserts Neil Ingram, sommelier and co-owner of Boneta restaurant. “Both had a reputation for industrial plonk, not unjustified from the old selection on our shelves; both are now trotting out delightful, focused and affordable wines.” We could-

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Reds 2007 Falern Chile $18-21 Check out Vancouver Pla Or, pick up a currant and elegance to it 2010 Christo AOC, France A testament to produce. Bea cherry notes. 2009 Alvaro Spain, $30-3 Mencía is the red. Wild arom notes of blac game meat. 2010 Azien Sicilia IGT, It Simple yet o cherries and Serve with a mushrooms.


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n’t agree more. Beaujolais’ image suffered from its Nouveau category. However, the region boasts many serious and delightful wines beyond. Barbara Philip, MW (Master of Wine) and portfolio manager for the wines of Europe at the BC Liquor Distribution Branch, has championed the region’s best examples: Cru Beaujolais. “I love them all: from Fleurie and St. Amour to the more powerful Morgons and Moulin à Vents. The 2009s really caught my attention with their red fruits, exotic herbal aromas and silky tannins, and it looks like the juicy 2010s are going to be excellent as well.” The fantastic selection on the shelves reflects her enthusiasm. Rhys Pender, MW, a wine educator and owner of Wine Plus in the Okanagan, expands on Ingram’s allusion to Australia’s renaissance. He recently returned from Australia and is raving about: “Tasmania. Racy Riesling, elegant flavoursome, complex Pinot Noir. And Canberra for Shiraz and Riesling. Underrated but fantastic.” We hope to see more wines from these areas soon. In the meantime, we’ll content ourselves with Chardonnay. Once known for an over-oaked and pedestrian style, Australia has stepped up and is now recognized for making some of the best Chardonnay in the world. Skeptical? Get some fresh crab and open a bottle of Shaw & Smith M3, Penfolds Yattarna or Xanadu Next of Kin. Wine trends don’t just apply to grapes and regions. Different styles of wine have their moment in the sun, some quite literally. Global warming combined with the trend of picking grapes later has resulted in a huge increase of wines with over 13.5 percent alcohol. Wine drinkers were lapping it up, but a backlash against high alcohol wines has begun. Being lightweights, we welcome lower alcohol wines and we’re not alone. Mark Filatow, chef and sommelier at Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar says, “Whether it’s snappy Chenins from Loire, Cab Francs and Gamays made here in B.C., I’ve had some amazing small production wines from here and beyond that ring in at 12.5 percent or less. Refreshing. My head agrees.” Ours too! Lighter reds are also capturing the attention of wine experts. Whether it be Frappato or Beaujolais, people see a value at the table. Wine is meant to accompany food and these gems are suited for it. Frances Sidhe, sommelier at Zambri’s restaurant in Victoria, sees a change: “When we first opened Zambri’s twelve years ago it was hard to convince many of our customers to try Italian wines, especially those which were lighter and more acidic. Now, they come in and ask for them. It makes my job so much easier because there are so many beautiful Italian wines made in just this style.” Inspired to try something new but don’t know where to begin? Plunk yourself down at the bar of your favourite local restaurant and ask the sommelier to guide you along. Happy discovering!

TASTING NOTES Reds 2007 Falernia, Syrah Reserva, Elqui Valley, Chile $18-21 (SKU #147819) Check out Chile’s exciting Syrahs at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. Or, pick up a bottle of the Falernia. Violets, red currant and black pepper notes with a lovely elegance to it. 2010 Christophe Pacalet, Beaujolais-Villages AOC, France, $23-28 (SKU #15800) A testament to the quality of wine the region can produce. Beautiful lifted floral aromas with fresh cherry notes. Enjoy with chicken, pork or salmon. 2009 Alvaro Palacios, ‘Petalos’ Bierzo DO, Spain, $30-35 (SKU #879221) Mencía is the grape behind this pretty and exotic red. Wild aromas of plum and violet with pleasant notes of black licorice. Very sensual. Perfect for game meat. 2010 Azienda Agricola COS, Frappato, Sicilia IGT, Italy, $33-38 (SKU# 191270) Simple yet oh-so charming. Pure flavours of cherries and cranberries with a silky texture. Serve with a heaping plate of sweetbreads and mushrooms.

2008 Quinta do Crasto, Old Vines Reserva, Douro DO, $43-49 (SKU #489211) Full bodied with firm tannin and concentrated notes of leather, cassis and minerals. Decant and serve with a serious piece of red meat. Whites 2009 Xanadu, Next of Kin, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia $17-19* Luscious mango and pineapple flavours balanced by vibrant key lime pie notes. The perfect match with roasted chicken and richer seafood. 2009 Vincent Raimbault Vouvray AOC, France, $24-28 (SKU# 127019) A great Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. Piercing flavours of quince, lemon and mushroom. Indulge in rillettes. 2009 Telmo Rodriguez, ‘Gaba do Xil’ Godello, Valdeorras DO, Spain $26-30* A fine example of the characterful Godello grape, which has seen a revival in the Valdeorras region. Rich yet vibrant with notes of lime and guava. Serve with pan-fried white fish. 2009 Pewsey Vale, Riesling, Eden Valley, Australia $27-32* Pretty peach and lemon aromas. This dry Riesling enchants with lime sorbet, stone, mineral and lip-smacking acidity. We can’t wait for spot prawn season!

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cheers.

VICTORIA SPIRITS victoriaspirits.com www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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WHITE

liquid assets —by Larry Arnold

Photo by Gary Hynes

left: Clos du Soleil Capella 2009 Similkameen Valley, BC right: Unsworth Pinot Gris 2010 Vancouver Island, BC

RED WINE Cal Y Canto Full Red 2009 Spain $12.00-15.00 An incredible bargain. The blend includes Tempranillo, Merlot & Syrah sourced from fruit grown on the high plains of Spain’s great central plateau; La Mancha. Dark and robustly flavoured with bright cherry, earth and spice flavours that persist through the finish. For immediate, easy pleasure. Alderlea Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 Vancouver Island $32.00-37.00 Deep, generous nose, classic Pinot Noir, island Pinot Noir. No brett here just ripe, clean fruit: cherry, cassis, spice and autumn leaves. Mouth-filling texture, everything is here but it still needs time. Lovely balance.

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Josef Chromy Pinot Noir 2009 Australia $30.00-33.00 Chromy’s Pinot Noir is sourced from fruit grown on the estate vineyard at Relbia at the northern end of Tasmania. The wine is darkly coloured with a generous bouquet of red fruit and expensive French oak. Complex with ample fruit, fine grained tannins and a muscular structure. Although approachable now this pinot is no gay little charmer; it has a dark side that after a glass or two kind of grows on you. Bodega Catena Malbec 2008 Argentina $21.00-23.00 Over the last few years Argentine Malbec has become the hottest wine on the planet and when it comes to Malbec, Catena is the gold standard. Deep purplish black with an intense nose of blackberries, licorice and spice; a wine at once fine yet at the same time rustic. Round and full with rich fruit flavours, soft tannins and a touch of oak. Great drinking from beginning to end.... Fontodi Chianti Classico 2007 Italy $34.00-37.00 Fontodi; etch this name into your brain, you will not regret it. Located south of the tiny village of Panzano, in the heart of Chianti Classico, vines have been cultivated here since ancient Rome was the biggest player on the planet. This estate has history to put it bluntly and although the price of Chianti Classico has soared over the last couple of decades, good Chianti is worth every penny. Bright and clean with lovely raspberry, violet and vanilla aromas. Full-bodied with sweet fruit flavours, fresh acidity and a rasp of grippy tannins through the finish. Highly enjoyable now but will reward time in your cellar-basement-closet.... Domaine de Bacarra Beaujolais-Villages 2009 France $20.00-22.00 Two thousand and nine is considered by many to be one of the greatest vintages in the last half century and this wine does not disappoint. Irresistibly fruity and aromatic, with mouth-filling flavours and a long soft finish. Fresh and quaffable...

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

ALL TH

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WHITE WINE Unsworth Pinot Gris 2010 Vancouver Island, BC $20.00-23.00 As far as I can tell Unsworth Vineyards is Vancouver Island’s newest winery. Sitting on 13 hectares of prime real estate on Cameron-Taggart Road, close to Merridale Cidery, the winery and vineyard is still very much a work in progress. Considering 2010 was their first vintage my expectations were not too high but I was delightfully surprised. This scrumptious little quaffer begs for a compliment. Very fresh with good intensity and racy acidity. Citrusy with floral, mineral and honey nuances and a slightly oily texture A good bet to wash down a couple of dozen fresh oysters. Buehler Vineyards Russian River Chardonnay 09 California $24.00-27.00 This delicious Russian River Chardonnay is irresistible. It is what the French would describe as “big-shouldered.” Very aromatic with floral, stone fruit and toast aromas and mouth-filling viscosity, beautifully balanced with supple fruit flavours, clean, natural acidity and a long creamy finish. Delicious... J.A. Ferret Sous Vergisson Pouilly Fuisse 2010 $46.00-50.00 Sous Vergisson is a blend of Chardonnay from some of the best sites in the appellation. This lovely Pouilly Fuisse is a fresh straightforward Chardonnay with a whiff of crushed oyster shells and citrus on the nose. Balanced and elegant with a lovely creamy texture and a long clean finish... Clos du Soleil Capella 2009 Similkameen Valley, BC $23.00-25.00 Move over Bordeaux Blanc, this lushly textured blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%) and Semillon (10%) is seriously good. Warm and generous with aromas of wildflowers, vanilla and citrus with a touch of honey and bitter almond to round it all out. Capella is not a flowery little delight; it is big and rich with a creamy texture and a long spicy finish. Who could have known? Grandes Caves Saint Roch Vouvray Demi-Sec 2010 France $21.00-23.00 This lovely off-dry Chenin Blanc is the kind of wine that could only come from France. The nose is heady and rich, it is floral, perhaps acacia blossoms, but there is also quince, honey and red apples. Medium-bodied and well-balanced with an oily viscosity that coats the palate and dances between fruity sweetness and fresh acidity. It is a delicious paradox. Giesen “The Brothers” Sauvignon Blanc 2009 New Zealand $22.00-25.00 There is absolutely nothing reserved about this intense Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It is pungent, full-flavoured and not lacking in character. Crisp and clean with citrus, passionfruit and gooseberry aromas, ripe fruit flavours and a long refreshing finish.

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www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

41


what to drink with that—by Treve Ring

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. This month’s challenge is to view Easter dinner through two lenses: modern and traditional. O U R

E X P E R T S

Michael Dinn (MD) - Proprietor, JoieFarm Winery Michael Dinn is co-owner and co-founder of JoieFarm Winery. He is a graduate of the Canadian Sommelier Guild program and spent 13 years working in front of house at a number of Vancouver’s best restaurants, including positions as sommelier at both C Restaurant and CinCin.

David Foran (DF) - Wine Director, SIDECUT – Modern Steak Four Seasons Resort Whistler

Erika Staffanson (ES) - Manager & Sommelier, Vis à Vis Wine & Charcuterie Bar

After graduating from the International Sommelier Guild in 2001, David has become a sought-after wine consultant, speaker and judge. He is currently overseeing the restaurant and wine program at SIDECUT in Whistler’s Four Seasons Resort.

Upon completing the International Sommelier Guild Diploma in 2006, Erika relocated to the Okanagan and fully immersed herself in B.C.’s wine country. With a crush at Tinhorn and a few restaurant stints at Burrowing Owl and Manteo Resort, she moved back to the Island to open Vis à Vis Wine Bar in Victoria’s Oak Bay Village.

EASTER MODERN Quail, parsnip, chicories, beurre rouge, fig leaf, vanilla

to the texture of the beurre rouge (prepare with the same wine) and parsnip (puree). A degree of toastiness from barrel maturation would work nicely with (grilled) chicory if not a slight vanilla component.

MD – A lighter to medium-bodied red wine with ripe fruit, good natural acidity and medium alcohol would be the ideal pairing for this dish. Pinot Noir, Gamay and Sangiovese would all work well. From a pure value standpoint, it would be hard to go wrong with a Valpolicella or its richer cousin, a Ripasso. The deciding factor leading me to Italy is the chicories—their pleasing bitterness is valued quite highly in northern Italian cuisine, so the wines complement rather than clash with this sometimes difficult flavour.

ES – With this dish, I would look towards a youthful Bandol from southern France. The overall rich and decadent flavours of the dish call for wine with sufficient body and moderate but polished tannins. The flavour profile of Bandol will mirror the vanilla, chicories and fig leaf nicely. For a closer-to-home option, I would look towards a B.C. Pinotage: good structure and complementary flavours of mocha, vanilla and spice.

DF – I see a welcomed challenging conflict of terrior here with classic dish components of the Old World, yet we want to bring the party into current times. This dilemma transports me to the Central Otago region of New Zealand where many top producers are paying homage to the natural purity of Burgundian Pinot Noir while developing their own signature noteworthy lineage. In this case, there is enough new world ripe fruit to act as a layer over the inherent earthiness of the grape, thereby bolstering the intensity needed to match the mild gaminess of the quail. Texturally soft fruits in the wine will be comparable

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

EASTER TRADITIONAL Ham, pineapple, cloves, potatoes MD – This dish calls for a light- to medium-bodied white wine to match the weight of the dish. You also want great natural acidity to cut through the fat, and loads of tropical fruit supported by some residual sugar to properly complement the pineapple and cloves. A German Riesling (either Kabinett or Spätlese) or a British Columbia or Ontario Riesling with anywhere from 12-25 grams of residual sugar would be ideal, as would a demisec Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley.

DF – I would approach this pairing with the thought of North American traditions as opposed to classical European cookery. To me, this dish screams out for a fleshy, opulent white loaded with richness and tropical elements. Although ham may be leaner than other proteins, a bone-in version with its increased intensity of flavour can stand up to a richer style wine. The caramelization achieved through roasting will play nicely to a wine matured at a high barrel toast level and the pineapple component along with pineapple glaze leads me to an expressive, succulent California selection of oakaged Viognier. My recommendation would be source out a producer from Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo where fruit achieves optimum ripeness yet retains its acidity for balance. ES – With traditional Easter dinner I always look towards a slightly off-dry Alsatian White. Pinot Gris would be my first choice, but a slightly aged Gewürztraminer should be considered as well. The richness and fruit-driven palate of the Pinot Gris will complement the ham well by cutting through the salt while also ensuring the pineapple notes do not take on a bitter tone. Also fun could be a Moscasto d’Asti. Fresh, young and lots of spritz will cut through the salt and lighten up the meal.

Th

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VICTORIA: This edition of the Victoria Buzz has had me humming the Beatles to myself (hello, goodbye, hello, goodbye…) Let’s start with the goodbyes, shall we? After ten years in Market Square, Muffet and Louisa will be closing their Victoria location. Their Sidney shop remains open for business. Also saying goodbye to Market Square is local institution Fat Phege’s Fudge Factory, whose lease will not be renewed once it expires in April. The Feys + Hobbs Boutique said goodbye to its Fort St. location in January, but will say hello to Oak Bay Ave once renovations are complete. (2249 Oak Bay Ave.) Other food businesses to leave Fort St. this winter include Pink Sugar Cupcakery and Golden Chopsticks. Some more hellos, please? Smoken Bones Cookshack opened their downtown location in the Hudson (corner of Douglas and Herald St.) at the end of January. Ingredients Health Food Store and Apple Café celebrated their grand opening in February (Corner of Store and Herald St.) Still hush-hush hellos include a new project of Cosmo Meens’ (Mo:lé, Village Family Marketplace) called the Soup Peddler to fill the spot left by Bubby Rose’s Bakery in the Cook St. Village, and a new independent eatery called the Clay Pigeon coming to Blanshard St. with links to the Pink Bicycle and Chef Geneviève Laplante (Sips, Cook Culture and EAT photographer) at the helm in the kitchen. Now how about a hello again? The new Oak Bay Beach Hotel is bringing back the Snug Pub; complete with original bartender Joe Smith and their iconic mugs and memorabilia. Opening planned for the end of May. Also in Oak Bay, the Whole Beast is planning a Carnivore Dinner series in partnership with The Village Butcher. The butcher shop will be transformed into a meat-inspired dining room. The dinners will feature five courses of island grown products, paired with local wines. Follow the Whole Beast on Facebook or Twitter for more details and updates. A selection of Whole Beast products, such as smoked sausages, salamis, hams, liverwurst and pepperoni are now also available at the Niagara Grocery in James Bay. Another exciting food partnership is happening between El Guapo Chorizo Grill and Vancouver Island Salt Co. who are pairing up to create a Spanish Paprika Salt. Keep an eye out for it at the Victoria Downtown Public Markets. In kitchen news, chef Jeff Keenliside has officially taken over both kitchens at the Penny Farthing pub and neighbouring Vis a Vis wine bar. Vis a Vis is now open every day of the week for lunch as well as dinner. Another new lunch option in town is Kulu Modern Asian Restaurant’s Take Out Lunch menu. Available Monday – Friday, orders must be placed before 5pm the previous day, and delivery is free for orders over $30. Kulu has also just launched their new spring menu, featuring local meats and produce from Umi Nami Farm. If springtime gets your green thumbs twitching, there are several urban gardening courses coming up to provide some guidance on how to get the most out of your patch. Lifecycles Project is offering Planning your Food Garden with Master Gardener Amy Crook on March 7, and Sowing Seeds: The Basics, a workshop in three sessions on March 14, 21 and 28. (www.lifecyclesproject.ca). Royal Roads University is running a 20-week course on Growing Food in the City, from March 3 – September 22. For a great read, look out for the new book by Saanich Organics farmers Rachel Fisher, Heather Stretch and Robin Tunnicliffe, called All the Dirt: Reflections on Organic Farming (Touchwood Editions). Part memoir, part howto manual for establishing an organic farm and getting a food distribution business off the ground, this book covers everything you ever wanted to know about small scale organic farming. —Rebecca Baugniet

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www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

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Weekend Getaways E s c a p e Yo u r N o r m a l

Seafood & Sushi Redefined.

Visit the Seagrille to experience our fresh approach to seafood & sushi in Victoria’s most spectacular seaside setting… Enjoy our Chef’s seasonally inspired menu with ingredients harvested from the sea and grown fresh on Vancouver Island. Watch our highly trained Japanese Sushi Chefs create a truly authentic “West Coast” sushi experience.

849 Verdier Ave 250.544.2079 www .BrentwoodBayResort.com

The Buzz

The Bu

VANCOUVER: Sweet news…Chambar alumni Eleanor Chow and Slavita Johnson are opening their first joint project, Cadeaux Bakery (www.cadeauxbakery.com), at 172 Powell St. If the baking is anything like what Chow used to turn out at Chambar, this will be a gift, indeed. Nicli Antica Pizzeria (www.nicli-antica-pizzeria.ca) owners Bill and Alison McCaig are opening Vicino Pastaria and Deli this spring, next door to their Vera Pizza Napoletana establishment. Look for housemade fresh-filled and extruded dry pasta, sauces, and housemade, local and imported cured meats, with both retail and dine-in options. And speaking of pizza, it seems Vancouver still doesn’t have enough good pizza. Joining the likes of Campagnolo, Nicli, Nook, Pizzeria Barberella, Novo, and Farina, comes Famoso (www.famoso.ca), a popular Canadian franchise that specializes in—you guessed it— authentic Neapolitan pizza. Look for it sometime in April on Commercial Drive. From the owners of The Cascade Room and Habit comes a new offering. The Union Bar (www.theunionbar.ca) at 219 Union Street specializes in Southeast Asian food (think noodles, curries, and street food-inspired fare). Now open nightly, no reservations. Miku Restaurant (www.mikurestaurant.com) has taken over the former Goldfish Seafood and Chops space at 1118 Mainland Street in Yaletown. Minami, the second location of this Ocean Wise-certified sushi restaurant (one of only two in Greater Vancouver) is slated to open in summer 2012. Japadog (www.japadog.com), the first Vancouver street food vendor who managed to offer something other than just tube steak on a bun (the freshly-grated daikon is a fave) has opened a storefront location in New York City. Tomorrow the world… Green Table Network (www.greentable.net) has launched their 2.0 service, to better offer local restaurants access to sustainable producers and suppliers, including online guidebooks, DIY tools, onsite verification and support, and more. Chambar Restaurant (www.chambar.com) has become one of only two restaurants in British Columbia to achieve Carbon Neutral certification. Congrats to husband-and-wife team Karri and Nico Schuermans! And in more green news, Trafalgar’s Bistro and Sweet Obsessions Cakes and Pastries (www.trafalgars.com) might just be least wasteful food service operation in the country. They have eliminated 100 percent of the organic waste going to landfills and 98 percent of all remaining waste. From filling a Dumpster every week, they now barely fill a plastic garbage bag, all by using the GreenGood CG-50 composting machine, which composts all waste within 24 hours—and with no odour. NDP Fisheries and Oceans Critic Fin Donnelly has launched a shark fin import ban petition. Shark fin soup is a popular dish at traditional Chinese weddings, and is also sought after for its purported medicinal properties. For more info on the ban petition, visit www.sharktruth.com. David Gunawan, former EC at West, is back from a three-month stint in Belgium with a new concept in dining labelled ph5 (ph5dining@gmail.com), a cooperative food and dining movement. Weekly dinners happen every Wednesday around the city until April, at which point they will be monthly. Five courses for $70. Email for details. Jay Jones, barman extraordinaire at Market by Jean-Georges (www.marketbyjgvancouver.com) in the Shangri-La Hotel, has been named Bartender of the Year by Enroute Magazine. —Anya Levykh

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NANAIMO: As we come out of the foodie quiet season it is evident that a collection of innovative restaurateurs have been busy redesigning their dining rooms, menus and dishes. Overall the approach is literally fresh with an increased use of local ingredients and culinary creativity that is on the rise like a perfectly crafted loaf of bread. A trend for offering gourmet dining and take-home artisanal foods all

250 924 1110

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EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

ladysmith, bc

Cont’d on the next page

1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pm Tuesday to Saturday


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The Buzz in one place is making the mid-island food scene more enticing than ever! And now for the highlights: Riso Foods Inc. (www.risofoodsinc.com; 250-3900777) Upon entering this Lantzville bistro your senses are immediately captured by irresistible aromas and a wall of fresh wood-fired baked breads. Next a menu of seasonal dishes crafted with the creative flare of chefs Sarah Wallbank and Matthew Sheppard fuels your anticipation. I was particularly taken with the sunchoke soup, especially after hearing the chokes were grown in Sarah’s garden. As the menu changes with the season one familiar bite remains the wood-fired pizza made with magic by Sarah’s husband Taka. You won’t want to leave without tucking a loaf under your arm… Markt Artisan Deli (www.marktartisandeli.com; (250) 585-5337) You may have noticed Markt gets regular mention in this Buzz. This is because chef Ryan Zuvich and his team are on an endless path of innovation. Now a Brasserie Menu featuring amazing classic yet contemporary dishes is on offer Thursday-Saturday weekly. Through a window from the deli to the kitchen you can see chef at work preparing house-made charcuterie, salad, gourmet entrees and desserts. It is the lamb with orange olive sauce that found a special place on my palate. You won’t want to leave without something (like their house-cured bacon) from the deli case. Danforth Deli and Grill (www.danforthdeli.com; (250) 591-1742) Here owner Ben Bryce has revived the kind of comforting lunch you may remember running home for as a school-kid. Using breads baked before opening he builds a variety of towering grilled cheese sandwiches you will never forget. While I started as a skeptic about Buf-

falo chicken in a grill cheese I am now a convert! Takeaways include exceptionally tasty meat pies and an unusual selection of specialty cheeses. Urban Beet Real Food Cafe (www.urbanbeet.ca; 250-390-9722) Not just for lunch anymore! A new management team has been implementing table service and adding dinner and brunch to the menu while new chef Lisa Lipieg has been busy innovating thematic dishes that include beet-based healthy platters and an amazing “Beet Bomb” starter. Other notables include a selection of gourmet burgers, corn tortilla tacos and the great take-away foods Urban Beet has become known for. Nest Bistro (486A Franklyn St.; 250-591-2721) Many locals are already in the know about the comforting fare at this neighborhood eatery in Nanaimo’s Old City Quarter. A little birdie from the Nest has told me that a new menu is ready for launch by March 1st. It is without a doubt that the new dishes will reflect the same passion chefs Nick Braun and Jennifer Ash have put into their food since opening last year. The little birdie has been tweeting about a great new wine list too! City Square Grill (www.citysquaregrill.com; 250746-1700) The newest kids on the block in downtown Duncan are City Square Grill’s passionate young team led by owner Jaimie Schmidt. Working with island suppliers this enthusiastic group have developed a sophisticated menu featuring house curry and specialty ravioli entrees. Definitely worth a visit to get your spice on! —Karma Brophy TOFINO: There are two major upcoming events that help us far-flung west coasters welcome spring. The Pacific Rim Whale Festival, March 17-25, is a long-running festival (now in its 26th year) that

celebrates the return of migrating whales from their southern winter-feeding grounds with many entertaining events. Several food and drink-focused Whale Festival events also help us to break out of that winter funk. Chef Nick Nutting and the kitchen brigade at the Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn will be hosting the Whale Festival Gala dinner and Silent Auction fundraiser on March 15. The Wickaninnish has been donating 100% of the proceeds from this dinner for the past 14 years, and last year raised $20,000 for the festival. www.wickinn.com or call 250-725-3100. The Chowder Chowdown is a not-to-be-missed Whale Festival event, with local chefs serving up their best seafood chowder offerings to the public and a panel of judges. This event takes place Sunday, March 18 at the Ucluelet Community Centre. Sweet Indulgences is Whale Fest’s answer to a dessert lovers’ dream – all you can eat dessert! Locals offer up their best family recipes while attendees vote on their favourite treats, and it’s all set to live music March 22 at the Ucluelet Community Centre. Black Rock Oceanfront Resort will be hosting the Barnacle Blues concert, also on March 22. This event is all about gourmet appetizers from local chefs and complementary beverages, as well as fantastic blues music from Jim Byrnes and Headwater. www.blackrockresort.com. 250-726-4800. For details visit www.pacificrimwhalefestival.com/events. The Tofino-Ucluelet Culinary Guild (http://www.tucg.ca) is busy with preparations for the 2nd annual Feast Tofino-Ucluelet festival, set for May 14-31. This festival recognizes the area’s foodie appeal with dock festivals featuring local and guest chefs, live music and seafood tasting, and special “Feast About Town” menus at local

restaurants. Accommodation providers and tour operators also offer specials during Feast. I’m hoping for more specifics for the May/June edition, but in the meantime visit www.feastbc.com and follow Feast BC on Facebook. The TUCG also heads up quite the healthy lunch program at Wickaninnish Community School and they’ve just announced that chef Rick Moore, formerly of his own Café Pamplona, the Wickaninnish Inn and Shelter Restaurant, will be delighting the palates of Tofino’s youngest diners by taking on the program starting this year. “For anyone who has shared a kitchen with him they know he is hard-working, humble, caring, and has been a real positive influence for a lot of young chefs in Tofino,” states information about Moore from the TUCG. The Spotted Bear Bistro took a brief break from their weekend brunch over the winter, but thankfully it’s back. Chef Vincent Fraissange will have Sunday brunch until Easter weekend, when it will start running Saturdays as well. This, of course, in addition to his regular seven days a week dinner service starting at 5:30pm. www.spottedbearbistro.com or call 250-725-2215. If you’re making Easter weekend plans to come visit, also check out the Easter-themed brunch at the Pointe Restaurant. It runs from 8am-2pm on Sunday, April 8th, and will feature a chocolate tasting and demonstration by pastry chef Matt Wilson. For more information, visit www.wickinn.com or call 250-725-3100. —Jen Dart NOTE: The COMOX BUZZ by Eli Blake is available online this issue. Visit www.eatmagazine.ca and enter Comox Buzz into Search.

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45


New Brewery Launches

Food PHOTOGRAPHY

MICHAEL TOURIGNY STUDIOS 250-389-1856 2001 Douglas Street - Unit F info@michaeltourigny.com

michaeltourigny.com

Victoria has just gained another brewery: Hoyne Brewing, with the motto: “Drink Hoyne for Smarts, Strength, and Stamina.” Sean Hoyne has had the dream of opening his own brewery for a very long time. “I put my dream on hold while I was raising a family”, says Sean. “Meanwhile, I was perfecting my brewing craft at Canoe and Swans brewpubs. I figured it was now or never!” Sean started with a science degree specialising in biochemistry and microbiology. Along the way he also did a one year business degree, and then switched to a MA in literature at the University of Victoria. “I’m quite liberally educated”, laughs Sean. It was while he was at UVic that he met legendary BC Brewing guru Frank Appleton. Frank was setting up the brewery at Swans Hotel in Victoria, and interviewed Sean for the job of brewer there. Sean recalls that he brought a six-pack of his homebrew with recipes to the interview, but “Frank and I just talked about literature.” New-hire Sean worked with Frank for a few months before Frank left, leaving Sean on his own. After his time with Swans, Sean moved down the street to open Canoe Brewpub, where he remained for 13 years, establishing their beer program and distinctive style. Sean’s goal now is to have a sustainable, environmentally responsible, financially viable company, one where he is surrounded by great people. Sean goes beyond the company when he mentions the latter - he says that he loves just hanging out with other brewers. He was renowned for inviting the brewing community to regular Friday afternoon “safety meetings” during his tenure at Canoe. Hoyne Brewing will have a significantly large number of beers in the future. There are nine on the planning board, with four currently in production. Down Easy Pale Ale is made with Superior Pale, Golden Promise, and Thomas Fawcett Marris Otter malts, with some Crystal and Carastan added to get the lovely round mouth feel. Northwest hops used are mainly Willamette and Cascades. This reminds one very much of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. For the Hoyner Pilsner Sean went for a strong malt character using tons of Vienna and Munich malts plus some German Carapils and Aromatic malts. The bittering hops are primarily Saaz, with Hallertauer Mittelfruh, and German Select for the finish. This beer pours with a beautiful thick white head, a hint of the excellent full body that this authentic Pilsner has. Devils Dream IPA was brewed with seven different hops including the big citrusy NW varieties: Amarillo, Simcoe, Citra and Centennial. Sean did not want to discuss IBU’s as he considers that a poor way to describe a beer. “It’s all about hop character,” he said. When I visited the brewery in early January, Sean was just adding the hops to the boil for the first batch of Big Cock Bock. “This is going to be a malt bomb. I’m adding just enough hops to give this beer balance” he said. The main malt is Superior Pilsner malt, together with Chocolate, Carastan, Crystal, Vienna, Munich, Carapils, and Aromatic malts. The hops are German Hersbrucker. If these beers are typical of this brewery then the future looks well for Hoyne Brewing. —by John Rowling

Tasting Notes

—by Treve Ring Hoyner Pilsner 5.3% Bright, pale yellow gold in the glass, with crisp citrus and mild cereal notes, opening up to honey aromas. Bright and refreshing, with grapefruit rind finish. Down Easy Pale Ale 5.2% Tangerine orange in hue and aroma, with easy-drinking mild hop character. Devil’s Dream IPA 6% Golden tones, with assertive toasty earth, grass and hop characters. Quite smooth with good mouthfeel, and a touch of caramel on the lengthy finish. Big Cock Bock 6.5% Amber-brownish pour, with a subtle roasted malt, cocoa powder nose. Creamy, mouth filling midpalate, so smooth it deceptively tricks you into thinking it’s lighter than it is. Cocky Bock. *Read about EAT’s experience at Oak Bay Bistro’s Hoyne Brewmaster Dinner online at eatmagazine.ca

46

EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

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chefs talk— compiled by Ceara Lornie What do you think of online review forums such as TripAdvisor, Urbanspoon, blogs etc. Do they help or hinder diners?

Peter De Bruyn - Strathcona Hotel, 250.383.7137 Forums are helpful to find places to eat, however the majority of reviews are either poor or great. People are more likely to blog a poor experience which can harm an establishment. Alternatively all great reviews lead to disappoint—like when customers have artificially high expectations. When my wife and I travel, we search for places to stay and eat online and make our choices by price point, location and pictures. Anna Hunt- Paprika Bistro, 250.592.7424 I think these forums can be very useful, if taken with a grain of salt. People must remember that their experience may not be the same as that of other guests. If the complaints or accolades are consistently about the same things then it is a pretty good bet they are true. I certainly use those forums when looking for somewhere to dine or stay when visiting strange cities. Jena Stewart - Devour Bistro & Catering, 250.590.3231 I think blogs, Yelp, and TripAdvisor are so important. I recently went away and used both TripAdvisor as well as Urbanspoon to get an edge on the scene in Sante Fe. I am not saying that I would agree now that we’ve eaten at some of the highest regarded restaurant, but I did find places that I would not have sought out otherwise… I would disagree with some people’s choices but we get to have opinions as long as people are not rude with their findings! Patrick Lynch - Foo, 250.383.3111 Undoubtedly there are some informed contributors to online review forums submitting thoughtful analysis of their dining experiences. Fine. Unfortunately, these forums also provide a soapbox for unenlightened half-wits to slander restaurants. For example, one online “food critic” once stated as a matter of fact that at Foo we use canned pineapple rather than fresh, an assertion that is categorically incorrect. The trouble with these forums is that when false and damaging statements are made there is no recourse for the restaurant. An investment of twelve bucks on a meal should not entitle you to publicly criticize the inspiration of a chef or the hard work of a professional kitchen. If you aren’t happy, tell your server or write the place an email.

´$7DVWHRI$UJHQWLQDµ with Stuart Brown ~ Tuesday March 27th, 7pm $35* - wine & food tasting

Reserve Today

ph: 250.592.7424 dinner ~ monday to saturday from 5:30pm 2524 estevan ave | victoria | paprika-bistro.com

Sean Brennan - Brasserie L’Ecole, 250.475.6260 I would need the whole page to respond to this question. Quang Dang- West Restaurant + Bar, 604.738.8938 I believe that, over time, the truth about a really good (or really bad) restaurant will emerge. So we always welcome feedback, be it positive (which fortunately is usually the case for us), or constructive criticism. If we stub our toe, experienced diners know to take it up with us directly, either during service when we can respond immediately or by getting in touch with us the next day. Diners should be aware that some reviews are biased, but overall, the consumer is generally well-served by a little on-line research, balanced by their own experiences. Sheila Jones, The Vanilla Pod Restaurant, 250.494.8222. As far as the forums, they are both a great tool and not a great tool. We know many people who use them as a guide to decide where to go and where not to go. The frustrating part is that you are dealing with people's personal perceptions and not always tangible issues. Having said that - everyone's opinions must be heard and if possible acted upon.

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

47


CHEF PROFILE: Mark Filatrow of Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar

E

xecutive Chef Mark Filatrow of Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar is one of the Okanagan’s top chefs both for his culinary talent and formidable wine knowledge. Quiet and unassuming, Mark is extremely focused in the kitchen, loved by his loyal staff and both respected and well-liked amongst his peers. Mark was born into a family with a great appreciation for food where his European heritage provided a culinary melting pot of home-made Russian, Jewish, Ukrainian, German, and Danish dishes. Growing up in Mississauga, Ontario, Mark was also influenced by his predominantly Italian neighborhood where the smell of grilled peppers was a signal that summer had arrived. After high-school, he headed to the West Coast, skiing and working the lower ranks of the kitchens in Whistler Resort. The University of British Columbia proved successful in the introduction to his now wife but he switched to Dubrulle Culinary Institute, after the realization that he preferred working in the campus kitchen, where he graduated with honors. After a season as head-chef/dishwasher with a tree-planting crew which covered his student debt, Mark began his culinary apprentice in 1996 working with chef Rod Butters at Tofino’s Wickannish Inn which included the added bonus of learning to surf. After two years, he headed back to Vancouver and worked for Chef John Bishop at

Bishops Restaurant, followed by Diva at the Met Restaurant under Canadian Iron Chef, Michael Noble. In 2001, he again joined Chef Rod Butters along with Audrey Surrao, as part of the opening team of Kelowna’s revolutionary fine-dining restaurant, Fresco (now the contemporary RauDZ). The dream of running his own restaurant came to fruition in November 2004, when he opened Kelowna’s Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar which overnight became an instant success. Numerous awards followed including an award as one of “Canada’s Best New Restaurants” by EnRoute Magazine and five consecutive years of Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence”. In the restaurant world, where customers are often fickle and today’s hotspot can be yesterday’s news, Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar has stood the test of time. Mark enjoys raising his family in the Okanagan and skiing is a favorite family activity. Along with raising two young children, Mark mentors many young and upcoming Chefs as well as running Details Catering. Find Mark’s wonderful line of dips perfect for home entertaining such as Smokey Eggplant Caponta in Kelowna at Okanagan Grocery Artisan Breads under the Details Catering label. Mark takes great pride in sourcing locally and working with small independent farmers. When he couldn’t find local Russet potatoes, he managed to convince John Cox of Sweet Life Farms to grow them and today they are one of the farm’s best selling potatoes. Mark also grows almost all of the restaurant’s herbs and tomatoes on his small farm called “Eldorado” which includes his much-loved Italian Plum tree yielding nearly two hundred pounds of fruit and prized family heirloom Swedish Brown Beans. Menus change to reflect the best of the season and as one of only a handful of Canadian chefs, accepted into the International Sommelier Guild, the suggested food and wine pairings at Waterfront Restaurant are truly exceptional. For an insider’s guide to some of the Okanagan’s best wines simply follow Waterfront Restaurant’s changing wine list. In March after being closed for three months, Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Bar celebrates re-opening following a nearly double in size expansion and renovation. Reservations may now be just a little easier to come by. Open Mon. thru Sat. from 5pm. Closed Sundays. #104-1180 Sunset Drive, Kelowna. —By Claire Sear

Fresh | Local | Organic | Ethical | Independent Vitamins | Grocery | Bistro | Produce | Natural Beauty | Home “From the farm to your plate; we take pride in supporting BC, growing healthy happy communities” -Nature’s Fare Markets

48

EAT MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2012

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OKANAGA Summerland Poplar Gro ing schedule close to ho Summerland restaurant, dinner Frida Road and D ern Canadia aka “the cup Street) in do including Is Scallion an Burger 55. Grant De located at th following an Grill is a mu Kelowna, ce tions and ex 1913 Kent R made hot Pa Kelowna Fa at the Parkin The Okan Pho needs. ( ian options) floor in dow Valley Road Duck fat is ity as a heal it adds to al sublime. Find Penticton) Finally, Ea Peaks and and après c hotels/bedcrowds. This golf, an afte followed by restaurants.


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The Buzz OKANAGAN BUZZ: Much abuzz in the Okanagan as we head into spring. Summerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine dining restaurant, The Vanilla Pod, moves across the lake to Poplar Grove Winery, located at the entrance of the Naramata Bench, with opening scheduled for late spring. Summerland residents can still enjoy the Vanilla Pod close to home when the Vanilla Pod Grill opens for their first season at the Summerland Golf and Country Club on March 15th. Summerland also has a new restaurant, The Stuffed Pepper open for lunch Tuesday to Saturday and for dinner Friday and Saturday evenings in the space previously occupied by Victoria Road and Deli. The focus is on traditional Middle Eastern food combined with modern Canadian cuisine. Well-know Penticton Farmer Market favorite Gigi Huscroft aka â&#x20AC;&#x153;the cupcake ladyâ&#x20AC;? has opened the delightful Cupcake Lady CafĂŠ (66 Front Street) in downtown Penticton. Front Street has many good eateries to choose from including Isshin Sushi Bar, Dream CafĂŠ, Ginza Sushi, newly opened Wild Scallion and just around the corner on Westminister Ave, the not to be missed Burger 55. Grant De Montreil is the new Executive Chef at West Kelownaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bonfire Grill located at the Cove Resort. De Montreilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary talent already has a loyal local following and combined with West Kelownaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only waterfront patio, the Bonfire Grill is a must-destination for excellent food, wine and stunning lakefront views. In Kelowna, celebrate Waterfront Restaurant and Wine Barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful renovations and expansion with a reservation. Ziaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian Fine Foods has opened at 1913 Kent Road and combines an Italian grocery store, deli and cafĂŠ. The homemade hot Paniniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are sure to be popular with the nearby office lunch crowd. The Kelowna Farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Market is open indoors on Saturdays from 9:00am to 1:00pm at the Parkinson Recreation Centre. The Okanagan now has two authentic Vietnamese restaurants to satisfy all your Pho needs. (Pho- delicious Vietnamese noodle soup with beef, chicken or vegetarian options) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pho Soc Trang (1530 Water Street) located upstairs on the second floor in downtown Kelowna and Summerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pho Vietnamese (7702 Prairie Valley Road). Duck fat is proving to be the ingredient du jour of 2012. It is gaining in popularity as a healthy alternative for frying or roasting foods and for the wonderful flavor, it adds to almost any dish. Roasted potatoes and vegetables in duck fat are truly sublime. Find it locally at Tonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Meat and Deli. (Apple Plaza-1848 Main Street, Penticton) Finally, Easter long-weekend is an ideal getaway to the Okanagan. Both Sun Peaks and Big White ski resorts are open for your last chance to enjoy the snow and après cocktails in the afternoon sun. Or take advantage of the Okanagan hotels/bed-breakfasts spring-season rates and enjoy wine touring without the crowds. This spring accomplish the Okanaganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s claim to fame- a morning game of golf, an afternoon on the ski slopes and an early evening water-ski on the lake followed by a well-deserved dinner at one of the Okanaganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s award-winning restaurants. Happy Easter! â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Claire Sear

You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to go far... for complete relaxation.

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Fresh Seafood Market & delicious eat-in or take-away fish nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; chips. Two great locations to serve you better.

West Kelowna - Governors Market 2231 Louie Drive - 250-768-3474 (FISH) Penticton - Apple Plaza 150-1848 Main St. - 250-492-3474 (FISH) www.buythesea.ca

www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2012

49


EAT Magazine March | April 2012  

Cenebtating the Food & Drink of British Columbia

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