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EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:06 AM Page 1

RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | CULINARY TRAVEL 速

SUMMER

&

DRINK

JULY | AUGUST

l 2013 | Issue 17-04 | FREE | EATmagazine.ca

Celebrating Delicious Food in BC

EAT THIS NOW DIY Yogurt Pops pg. 33


EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:06 AM Page 2

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EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:06 AM Page 3

content Celebrating delicious food in BC

Recipes

Articles

Biryani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ......28 The Big Chill . . . . . . . . . . . ......32

Concierge Desk . . . . . . . 05 Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .07 Epicure At Large . . . . . . .10 Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Good For You . . . . . . . . .12 Wildcrafting . . . . . . . . . .13 Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Walking Tours . . . . . . . . .20 Eating Well For Less . . . .22 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .35 VINcabulary . . . . . . . . . .36 Island Wineries of BC . . .37 Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .38 Wine & Food Pairing . . .40 News from around BC . .42 What the Pros Know . . . .46

Guest Chef Khalil Akhtar

Your Community.

Go LocalfirBC! st. We pick BC

We are proud to feature many fine, award winning cheeses that are produced right here in BC. Try one of our many fresh BC cheeses today.

Cover photography: “The Big Chill” by Michael Tourigny Facebook/EatMagazine twitter.com/EatMagazine EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locations in BC including Victoria, Vancouver, Vancouver Island and the Okanagan

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Editor in Chief Gary Hynes Contributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg DRINK Editor Treve Ring Senior Wine Writer Larry Arnold Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear Food Reporters Tofino | Ucluelet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear, Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan: Lindsay Muir | Nanaimo: Kirsten Tyler Web Reporters Colin Hynes, Van Doren Chan, Elisabeth Nyland Contributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Anya Levykh, Elizabeth Smyth Monk, Michaela Morris, Simon Nattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Dona Sturmanis, Adem Tepedelen, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman. Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark. Advertising: 250.384.9042, editor@eatmagazine.ca Mailing address: Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4, Tel: 250.384.9042 Email: editor@eatmagazine.ca Website: eatmagazine.ca

Purchasing BC produced food strengthens our local economy and helps the environment.

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

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EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:06 AM Page 4

editor’s note

Deadline # 86

I’m standing over the kitchen sink. In my hand is a hastily assembled smoked salmon sandwich dripping with juicy ripe Sun Wing tomato, Halliburton Farm arugula, Two Rivers bacon and some Hellman’s slathered on thick-sliced, toasted Wildfire rustic white. The salmon is leftover from yesterday’s photo shoot for the “Beer and a Bite” article (see pg. 25). Oh yeah, and I’m in heaven. Well, for the moment anyway. I’m in dropdead deadline for this issue of EAT and I only have a few hours left before I have to upload the files to the printer. As usual at this time, there’s not much time to cook. But a big, juicy sandwich is all I need to fuel up for the final round of editing, PDF conversions and colour checks. It’s now 1:00 am and the July/Aug issue has been put to bed. I’m exhausted, the sandwich is long gone but happily there’s a cold beer waiting in the fridge. Time to wind down, relax and reflect on the issue. As usual, we have some fine stories written by our columnists. They write about peaches, a well-known restaurateur, some new restaurant

finds, less familiar berries, and the wonders of cured salmon. New EAT writer Simon Nattras tells us what’s available for summer foraging—or wildcrafting as it is sometimes called—and guest chef Khalil Akhtar, known for his popular cooking classes at Cook Culture, introduces us to the intricacies of aromatic Indian flavourings. In the drinks department, Treve Ring recommends some good Pinot Gris wines for summer imbibing and Adem Tepedelen gives us the low-down on Vancouver Island’s newest wineries. The issue ends with some EAT media friends letting us in on their favourite local ingredients. There’s more, of course, because I like to pack each issue with tons of good writing and original photography. All in all, an issue I’m proud to put my name to. One last item. We’re coming up on our 15th anniversary and in preparation for the festivities we want to ask you, dear reader, to let us know how we’re doing in a quick questionaire. As an enticement, you will have the opportunity to win a fabulous “Weekend in Vancouver”. Together with the Listel Hotel and both Forage and West restaurants in Vancouver, EAT will set you up with accommodations, two deluxe dinners, breakfasts, and parking. We’ll even pay for the ferry! How cool is that? Check it out on pg. 27. Have a fantastic summer of eating. —Gary Hynes, Editor

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EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:06 AM Page 5

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk

by Rebecca Baugniet

For more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

July OAKLANDS SUNSET MARKET (VICTORIA) A Just tucked away behind Hillside and Shelbourne, Oaklands Sunset Market is one of the best kept secrets of the summer: over 40 farmers, craft, food vendors, local, live music, a stocked beer garden by Hoyne Brewing, and hot food ready to eat from Prima Strada Pizzeria, International Women’s Co-op, and more! Community partners include: Vancity, Fortis, Hoyne Brewing, Larsen Music, Compost Education Centre, Life Cycles, and the BC Association of Farmers’ Markets. 2nd & 4th Wednesday in July & August, from 4:30-8:30pm. The corner of Belmont Ave. and Ryan St. at Oaklands Community Centre Basketball Courts. DIRTY APRON COOKING SCHOOL KIDS CAMP (VANCOUVER) For the fourth summer, The Dirty Apron Cooking School is putting kids and teens in the kitchen this summer. Beginning July 8 the cooking school begins with the goal of teaching children aged 7 to 11 and teens aged 12 to 17 the skills to prepare basic meals while learning about healthy eating and where their food comes from. The weeklong camp will focus on how to use a knife safely and with confidence, the basic building blocks of nutrition, and sourcing local ingredients. Tuition for the camp is priced at $490 and includes a daily recipe book, closely supervised handson instruction and all meals. For more information, including daily menus please visit: www.dirtyapron.com/classes. OUTSTANDING IN THE FIELD (VANCOUVER) Outstanding in the Field is the wildly successful roving culinary adventure that travels across North America during the harvest season, celebrating food at the source. Two stops in BC this year – one at the UBC Farm, Vancouver, July 13 and one at North Arm Farm, Pemberton, BC, July 14. (www.outstandinginthefield.com) GRUBS SUMMER CAMP – GROWING ROOTS IN URBAN SOILS (VICTORIA) This summer LifeCycles, the Greater Victoria Compost Education Center, and Victoria West Community Centre are teaming up to host an exciting urban farm day camp. With the guidance of farm camp facilitators, kids will learn through hands-on outdoor educational activities. Together they will explore urban farms, build compost, learn about local food, plant seeds, grow food, go on field trips and much more! Bursaries available. Compost Education Centre. July 16-20, from 9am3pm. Ages 6-9 yrs. Cost: $150 (bursaries and payment plans available). For additional information or to register call (250) 386-WORM (9676) or email: outreach@compost.bc.ca THE OAK BAY VILLAGE NIGHT MARKET (OAK BAY) Taking place on the third Wednesday of July, August and September, the night markets will feature local produce, artisans, music and special events in Oak Bay Village. The Oak Bay Village Night Market features produce from farms throughout southern Vancouver Island. (oakbay.ca) LIGHT FRENCH CUISINE FOR SUMMER DAYS (VANCOUVER) This UBC culinary arts summer program, running July 22-26, focuses on light and refreshing summer recipes, such as seasonal fruits crepe with fresh cheese and cherry sauce, Fish of the Day carpaccio with watermelon and mint, and vegetables à la Greque. You will leave this course ready to prepare and host a gourmet French picnic lunch. Register early as enrolment is limited. $425, includes course materials, a chef’s apron and five multi-course meals. (www.languages.ubc.ca/culinaryarts) TASTE: VICTORIA’S FESTIVAL OF FOOD AND WINE (VICTORIA) Victoria’s fifth annual Taste festival will uncork Thursday July 25, with an evening tasting of more than 100 British Columbia wines and local cuisine prepared by top Vancouver Island chefs. Not just a wine festival, this culinary tourism experience is an extra long weekend of tastings, seminars and events...a festival with a culinary conscience. Highlights include: “Swine and the Vine”, held on the patio at Hotel Grand Pacific; “Weird and Wonderful Grape Varieties of Cool Climate Regions” led by sommelier Pam Sanderson; “Tea and Terroir”with Tea Master Daniela Cubelic” at Silk Road; “Band, Bubbles and Bennys” at Vista 18 Restaurant Martini & Wine Bar. Events run through to Sunday, July 28. Tickets sell out quickly. For a full list of events visit www.victoriataste.com. Trade-only Tasting of B.C. wines is offered the afternoon of Thursday July 25th. For details: www.VictoriaTaste.com/trade

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www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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SLOW FOOD VANCOUVER CYCLE TOURS 2013 (FRASER VALLEY) This summer, Slow Food Vancouver is looking forward to co-hosting two Slow Food Summer Cycle Tours in the Fraser Valley. The 7th annual Cycle Tour Agassiz is planned for Saturday, July 27, and the 5th Cycle Tour Chilliwack will be held on Sunday, July 28. The leisurely self-guided Slow Food Cycle Tours provide an educational and culinary experience exploring many farms; some that are open to the public for this day only! The tours give a rare chance to meet the farmers and learn about agriculture in the spectacular Fraser Valley. Each cycle tour is approximately 25km on the flat along public roadways. Start and finish your slow cycle any time between 9am-4pm. (www.slowfoodvancouver.com)

August

innovative island-sourced cuisine TUESDAY – SATURDAY 5:30 – 10:00p.m. 509 fisgard street I victoria bc I 250 590 8795

FEAST IN THE MOUNTAINS (WHISTLER) Feast in the Mountains showcases BC's culinary bounty by transforming Whistler’s Olympic Plaza into a roaming gourmet sampling of local foods on August 3 from 5pm -8 pm. Visit vendor booths comprising of award-winning chefs, farmers, food artisans, vintners and brewers for a sampling of their offerings. (www.feastinthemountains.com) FARM, ARTS & CULINARY CAMP FOR KIDS (SALT SPRING ISLAND) Foxglove Farm’s five-day farm camp for children ages 7-12 offers environmental literacy experiences through the exploration of a variety of habitats; by growing, harvesting, preparing and eating organic fruits and vegetables, feeding and caring for farm animals, and through nature based art, using child-centered, fun activities. August 5-9, 9am-3pm. $295 +$20 materials fee and applicable taxes. Lunches provided. (www.foxglovefarmbc.ca) PENTICTON PEACH FESTIVAL (OKANAGAN) PEACHFEST is an annual, South Okanagan Valley tradition, which began in 1947, to celebrate the peach harvest in Penticton. This five-day extravaganza features live entertainment, a wide variety of food and more. Peachfest 2012 runs from Aug 711, on the shores of Okanagan Lake in Downtown Penticton. (www.peachfest.com/). NORTH SAANICH FLAVOUR TRAIL (SAANICH) Enjoy a weekend celebration of farming, cultural events and family fun in beautiful rural North Saanich. August 24-25. (www.northsaanich.ca) GARLIC FESTIVAL (VANCOUVER) Get your breath mints ready, The Sharing Farm’s 5th Annual Garlic Festival is back this August 25th at Richmond’s Terra Nova Rural Park. Open to all ages, this free event combines organically grown artisan garlic and garlic goods with family friendly activities like: live entertainment, cooking demonstrations, exhibitors and everyone’s favourite, garlic ice cream. (www.sharingfarm.ca) FEAST OF FIELDS (ACROSS BC) Feast of Fields is FarmFolk/CityFolk’s annual fundraiser. Net proceeds support their work year round as they help to create a sustainable food system for British Columbia. Not only will guests have a great culinary experience but they will also be investing in a secure food future. The Okanagan Feast of Fields will be held August 18 from 1-5 pm, at Little Church Organics, Kelowna. Krause Berry Farms and Estate Winery will host the 19th annual Lower Mainland Feast of Fields on Sunday, September 8, from 1pm- 5pm. The Vancouver Island Feast of Fields will be held Sunday, September 22, from 1-5 pm at the Metchosin Farm in Metchosin. For ticket purchase information visit the Feast of Fields website (www.feastoffields.com).

Coming Up COWICHAN WINE & CULINARY FESTIVAL (COWICHAN VALLEY) The ninth annual Cowichan Wine and Culinary Festival will take place Sept. 7 to 15, with tempting events at numerous venues in the beautiful Cowichan Valley. The owners of 12 regional wineries are participating in this year’s festival. It promises to be a memorable experience, a showcase for the Valley’s wine, food, music and art in luscious locations. (www.wines.cowichan.net)

On Going ! "

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"

The Victoria Public Market at the Hudson kicked off the summer season with their year-round, local food focused Victoria Downtown Farmers’ Market Every Wednesday from 11-3 pm on the back carriageway of the Hudson building. www.victoriapublicmarket.com


EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:06 AM Page 7

food matters — by Julie Pegg

Salmon Beyond Barbecue The noble fish takes a holiday from the coals. BY AUGUST I’VE HAD MY FILL of the salmon barbecue. I love it, but I can tire of it no matter how many ways the fish is glazed or grilled. So I turn to coldpoached, cured or smoked salmon and take it to a shady park. Pink salmon, barely simmered in a white wine broth with shallots and capers, is delicious served chilled. Its moist texture and delicate taste is quite apart from salmon done over coals. Chilled cucumber salad with red onion and rice wine vinegar is the ideal accoutrement. Then there are the age-old processes of curing and smoking. Curing fresh-caught salmon is time well spent. Elizabeth Luard (The Old World Kitchen) introduces her gravlaks/gravlax recipe (from the Swedish “grav,” meaning grave) by telling us that Scandinavians, in the 12th century “sandwiched fish between layers of birch bark and fir branches weighted with stones” and buried the fish in the ground for up to 12 weeks until it “fermented.” These days, gravlax receives a layered treatment of rock salt, sugar, a couple of shots of quality vodka (or aquavit) and chopped dill, then gets buried in the fridge for several days. Be sure to start with frozen fish fillets, which ensures that the fish will be safe to eat raw. Cover your layered fillets with aluminum foil, place in a dish and weigh them down with soup cans set on a chopping board or plate (to press out the liquid). The fish is turned from time to time, drained of its salted liquid, and after three or four days, the reward is tender, moist, modern-day gravlax. For a quick alfresco feast, thinly sliced gravlax on buttered rye bread and napped with a mustard dill sauce need no other companions than halved nugget potatoes dotted with sour cream and a bowlful of summer berries to follow. Incidentally, lox is very like gravlax but prepared with less dill. Char, albacore tuna and trout also take to the cure—scallops too, especially when citrus enters into the equation. Forage chef Chris Whittaker (and C’s Rob Clark) hold salmon’s most humble species in high regard. Whittaker maintains that keta (chum) that is caught and bled properly, flash-frozen and glazed immediately with seawater takes well to the kitchen. To his sugar/salt curing mixture, Whittaker adds Sea Cider cider, wild juniper and tarragon. This past spring, Whittaker’s keta salmon in stinging nettle soup with bacon and crème fraȋche was among the Vancouver restaurant’s more popular dishes. Brining fish is easier than dry-curing. All that is required is a boiling hot bath into which is dissolved kosher salt. The four-day aging rule applies, but the result is an almost translucent flesh with a gentler flavour than gravlax. Brining is also essential prior to cold- or hot-smoking salmon. Cold smoking refers to lightly smoking fish at a temperature of no more than 90°F. Dial it up to 150-180°F and the fish is hot-smoked with a more cooked texture. Don’t have a naff Bradley smoker, or the more modestly priced Little Chief? Use a quality charcoal grill. (Check out Livestrong.com’s excellent step-by-step method for hot-smoking salmon in a Weber kettle). Slice salmon into strips, cure it with sugar/salt and hot-smoke for up to 12 hours, and you have Indian candy, a terrific snack with a tender chew, and a true Canadian if baptized with a bit of maple syrup. I like a smoked salmon kedgeree for brunch. Born in India as khichari, a humble dish of curried rice and lentils, British Colonials turned it into a casserole of smoked haddock, rice, sometimes peas, chopped hard-boiled egg and a generous dash of curry powder. Smoked salmon kedgeree is a wonderful upgrade of this British staple. Made with basmati rice spiced with turmeric and coriander, it’s the perfect bed for soft poached eggs for a late Sunday morning and a reputed hangover cure. I will certainly pop by a good fishmonger for smoked or cured salmon. But I like the idea of my own involvement in getting my from-the-sea charcuterie onto the plate. And the truth is, I never was much good at barbecuing salmon. S

www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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SPECIAL EAT PROMOTION

Above: scenes from the Cowichan Valley - only a short 45 minute drive from Victoria

Cowichan Wine & Culinary Festival Meet the passionate winemakers and chefs of the Cowichan Valley, savour their expertise, enthusiasm and the fruits of their labours.

The ninth annual Cowichan Wine and Culinary Festival will take place September 7

Winery and B&B, Deol Family Estate Winery, Enrico Winery & Vineyards, Glenterra

to 15, with tempting events at numerous venues in the beautiful Cowichan Valley. The

Vineyards & Thistle Café, Merridale Ciderworks, Bistro & Bakery, Rocky Creek Winery,

enthusiastic owners of 12 regional wineries are participating in this year’s festival. It

Silverside Farm & Winery, Unsworth Vineyards and Amusé on the Vineyard, and Vigneti

promises to be a memorable experience, a showcase for the Valley’s wine, food, music

Zanatta Winery, Vineyard & Vinoteca Restaurant. These dedicated winemakers have

and art in luscious locations. The festival is the grand finale of the area’s summer

produced many impressive, award-winning wines. Glenterra’s Thistle Cafe, Merridale’s

season; however there are many reasons to visit this bountiful destination and its

Bistro, Unsworth’s Amusé and Vigneti Zanatta’s Vinoteca restaurant have garnered rave

hospitable vintners all summer and throughout the year.

reviews for their excellent cuisine.

The festival kicks off with the annual Grape Stomp on Saturday afternoon, September

“The winemaking process is very much like cooking as an executive chef,” Holford

7, at the Cowichan Exhibition Fairgrounds. “Winery teams compete to see who stomps

confides. “Each winemaker has their own recipe. It is also like a work of art: the wine-

grapes the fastest. A soft foot crushes grapes more gently than a steel press,” explains

maker decides how much colour they put in each wine, according to the skin contact—

Linda Holford, festival planning committee member and co-owner of Rocky Creek

the length of time the grapes are soaked with their skins on.”

Winery. If your experience of this old-fashioned maceration method has been limited to

Andy Johnston of Averill Creek Vineyards calls Cowichan the home of the best pinot

watching the classic black and white I Love Lucy grape-trampling episode, you won’t

noir in Canada. “We produce world-class pinot noir and pinot gris. These two vinifera

want to miss this messy, entertaining event in living colour. At 6 p.m., enjoy live music,

are most suited to this climate and environment,” Johnston explains. The region’s

lavender mojito sangria and paella made over an open fire at Damali Lavender Farm

wineries also have a unique take on fruit wines, such as blackberry and rhubarb

and Winery’s Sangria Fiesta. On Wednesday, September 11, tipple, mingle and

lavender, and are well-known for their sparkling wines. Some wineries also produce

“Meet Your Maker” at historic Providence Farm while dining on brick oven pizzas made

vodka, brandy and artisanal vinegars.

by Vancouver Island University culinary students. “This is a great opportunity for visitors to experience a farmer’s market type of meet and greet with winery owners,” says Holford. On the evening of Friday, September 13, dress up for “Savour!” a food and wine tasting event with a cocktail party atmosphere. Winemaker Mark Holford presents cooking demos and wine tastings at Rocky Creek Winery on September 14 and 15. A two-day Wine Festival package, including accommodations, breakfast, lunch and dinner and a tour of the vineyards, is offered from September 10 to 12. Consult the festival website—wines.cowichan.net—for information on the package, venues and updates on other events. A map and printable brochure on the website outlines a wine-touring loop of the wineries involved in the festivities. Almost all the wineries are within 10 minutes of each other along scenic country roads. Wine loop participants include Twenty Two Oaks Winery, Averill Creek Vineyards, Blue Grouse Vineyards, Damali Lavender Farm,

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

“The Cowichan Valley has become a foodie destination,” Johnston observes. It is noteworthy that Cowichan Bay became the first North American Cittaslow town in 2009. Cittaslow (“slow city” in Italian) originated in Italy in 1999 as an offshoot of the Slow movement, which supports slowing down the pace of every aspect of life. (See cittaslow.org) “In the Valley, we can grow everything we eat and the wine to go with it,” says Johnston. This vibrant wine and gastronomic destination is 45 minutes north of Victoria and 45 minutes south of Nanaimo. Meet the passionate winemakers and chefs of the Cowichan Valley, savour their expertise, enthusiasm and the fruits of their labours, and celebrate the bounty of our Island paradise. —by Sylvia Weinstock Cowichan Wine and Culinary Festival, Sept 7 -15. Visit wines.cowichan.net for event dates and more information.


EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:06 AM Page 9

...savour the culinary experience of Cowichan Wine Country on Vancouver Island

www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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epicure at large — by Jeremy Ferguson

An Ode to Umami The savoury flavour of foods such as shellfish, spinach, cheeses and porcini mushrooms is like mother’s milk to us. THE TALE IS OLD HAT to foodies: In 1908, a Tokyo professor named Kikunae Ikeda identified a fifth taste, one that went beyond sweet, sour, bitter and salty, and seized the palate with gripping sensuality, a taste we in the West neither had a word for nor really understood. He called it “umami,” which translates as savoury (as distinct from salty). He traced this to glutamates, a chemical compound occurring naturally in a wide range of foods from porcini mushrooms to parmesan cheese. Our receptors respond to it like cats to crabmeat, our tongues and roof and back of the mouth pulsating with delight. In a whirl of epicurean alchemy, it also enhances all the other flavours at hand. As one umami aficionado puts it, “It makes you drool.” For our aging population, umami is just the ticket. It’s capable of compensating for the cruel loss inflicted by a low-sodium diet. And if you’re at a stage of life when taste and smell are slipping, umami helps bring back the good old days. Ikeda synthesized the taste into a glutamate salt and coined the term monosodium glutamate—yes, MSG, that reviled flavour enhancer whose overdose can drive us out of bad Chinese restaurants with muzzy heads and pounding hearts. Yet MSG puts flavour where it isn’t: I once ordered a lunch expunged of the stuff at a five-burp Cantonese diner in Toronto. It had no flavour. I might as well have eaten the paper napkin. So it is that without the powder, the processed and fast food industries might collapse. The scientific community, moving at the pace of an escargot on Valium, finally accepted umami as a basic taste in 1985, and the word made its debut in the lexicon. It seems the universal first taste of it was in our mothers’ milk, which comes rich with

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it. Then we find it in shellfish, tomatoes, spinach, cheeses, cured meats, anchovies, fermented fish sauces, even green tea. The Caesar salad is textbook umami. So it seems umami has always been with us. We just didn’t know it. American chefs have wasted little time embracing it: Restaurants named Umami reach from New York to San Francisco. It’s more than a trendy name. The Umami Cafe in Westchester, NY, employs “abundant” umami in every dish from Peking duck quesadilla to frizzled onion rings. California’s Umami Burger chain goes whole-hog: its Truffle Burger is thick with housemade truffle cheese while others feature green chilies, cheeses, anchovies and Worcestershire sauce. Urging you to find your umami bliss, producers are scrambling for the gastronomic grail: Taste #5 Umami Paste from Italian restaurateur Laura Santtini is a meld of 11 umami-laded ingredients, including tomato, garlic, anchovy, olives, porcini and parmesan. The company markets it as “a flavour bomb.” Grand. Exactly what we need. In a sauce or salsa, it may save us even from something as obnoxious as the Christmas turkey. And as Von Helsing lugged around a crucifix to ward off vampires, could we not arm ourselves with Taste #5 as protection from flavourfree restaurants? Umami bliss in Victoria: For brilliant, high-acid tomatoes, we’re pilgrims on the road to SunWing Tomatoes in rural Saanich. The rare beef pho and fried rice at the fine Green Leaf Bistro on Douglas speaks for the Vietnamese take on umami. Same with much of the excellent Hong Kong-style dim sum at Jade Fountain in the Red Lion Inn on Douglas. And at Prima Strada on Cook, I get to order a virtual umami pizza, the Romano topped with tomato, garlic, anchovies and black olives. But the umami Oscar goes to my wife’s smoked cheese: She takes a pound of old cheddar and smokes it with an applewood puck in a Bradley Smoker. The result is an unctuous, mouth-filling overdose of savoury. It confirms my affection for umami as religion: I’ll take it anywhere. Into the afterlife, too. S


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get fresh — by Sylvia Weinstock

The Sexy Fruit

Dare to eat a peach: They are naughty and nice.

IS THERE ANY OTHER FRUIT AS VOLUPTUOUS as a peach? Its dripping, sweet flesh is encased in sensuous, velvety down tinged with seductive sunset colours. And oh, that erotic cleft: it gives the fruit the appearance of zaftig cleavage or a well-rounded booty. It’s not surprising that this ambrosial summer treat has a long history as a fertility symbol and an aphrodisiac. In China, where peaches first grew thousands of years ago, peaches and peach trees symbolize longevity and immortality. The trees are Taoism’s most sacred plant because they are said to contain the “soul substance,” a spiritual force called ling. Taoist art often portrays immortality as an old man rising out of a peach. The legendary “Peach Tree of the Gods” supposedly blossoms once every 3,000 years. Its peaches are called the “fruits of eternal life” and bestow health, sexual potency and immortality on those who eat them. Aside from their sexy appearance, peaches have been considered an aphrodisiac since the ancient world because eating this nutritious fruit creates a healthy body with the energy and blood flow necessary for peak sexual experiences. Peaches are high in antioxidant carotenoids, including beta-carotene, which is converted in our bodies to vitamin A. The fruits are a peachy-keen source of vitamin C and lycopene, a powerful antioxidant carotenoid. Their astringent-tasting tannins are potent antioxidant polyphenols. They also contain energy-boosting iron, magnesium, potassium and niacin. Peaches are a good source of arginine, which stimulates the production of sex hormones, sperm and eggs. According to renowned American botanist Dr. James Duke, arginine has anti-impotence and aphrodisiac activities. Peaches weren’t commercially grown in the United States until the 19th century. They are now widely cultivated in Georgia (the Peach State), California and South Carolina, and are America’s largest fruit crop next to apples. These succulent fruits have been cultivated in Canada for hundreds of years. Approximately 80 percent of Canada’s peach crop is grown in Ontario. More than 1,800 farms in the Okanagan, Similkameen and Creston valleys of British Columbia grow about 20 percent of Canadian peaches. Although I haven’t been back there for many years, I have sweet memories of picking gorgeous large peaches on summer trips to the Okanagan and bringing back boxes of the fragrant fruits. Their heavenly scent filled the hot car as they ripened on the journey back to Vancouver Island. It was such a pleasure to bubble them on the stove into glorious golden jams and chutneys. I baked pies, cobblers (made with peach brandy) and crumbles oozing with sweet orange flesh. I cooled down with peach granita and ice cream, and indulged in Bellinis, margaritas and yogurt smoothies as long as the bounty lasted. Blanching the peaches made them easy to peel. I scored a small X through the skin at the base of each peach, placed the fruit in boiling water for about forty seconds, plunged them into an ice bath, patted them dry and peeled off their fuzzy skins. As delicious as they are in desserts, peaches swing both ways: they also shine in savoury dishes. I love the taste combo of barbecued jumbo prawns slathered with rosemary, garlic and ginger-sparked peach glaze. Other favourite aromatic peach dishes include bruschetta topped with peach, tomato, red onion and basil salsa; acorn squash with peach butter; warm roast duck and grilled peaches with tender salad greens; grilled pork and peach kebabs; and tomato, peach and pineapple gazpacho. Dare to eat a peach, for goodness’ sake—and for the sake of naughtiness. S

Spicy Peach Relish This easy-to-prepare mélange is one of my favourite summer condiments. Serve this lip-smacking relish with grilled fish for a fabulous summer dish. 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 Tbsp light brown sugar 1 jalapeno chile, seeded and minced 3 Tbsp fish sauce 3 Tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice

2 Tbsp water 3 firm, ripe peaches, peeled and diced ¼ cup chopped cilantro 3 Tbsp chopped mint

In a food processor (or using a hand mixer), pulse garlic, chilies and brown sugar into a paste. Stir in fish sauce, lime juice and water. Place mixture in a bowl, add peaches, cilantro and mint and stir to combine.

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good for you — by Pam Durkin

Berry Healthy Sweet, juicy, delicious and, oh right, good for you. ONE OF SUMMER’S most enjoyable pastimes—eating fresh, sun-ripened berries—also happens to be one of its healthiest. Yet despite all the options, many of us rely on the mundane trifecta of blueberries, raspberries and strawberries for our berry nourishment. You can break out of this berry rut by incorporating the following, less familiar, but equally delicious berries into your diet. Currants Don’t confuse these round, smooth-skinned and aromatic berries with the dried Zante grapes that go by the same name. Fresh currants—available in black, red and pink varieties—are true berries that grow on shrubs and ripen from July to August. Currants are growing in popularity here thanks to their intense flavour, amazing health benefits and culinary versatility. They deserve the recognition. Currants contain more disease-fighting anthocyanins and vitamin C than blueberries. Research indicates consumption of the jewel-toned berries can help lower cholesterol and blood pressure, protect vision as well as reduce the risk for cancer and neurodegenerative disorders. The red-hued varieties are sweeter than the black and are delicious eaten raw or used in preserves and baked goods. Black currants can be somewhat tart, but cooking and sweetening them releases an astounding flavour that shines in everything from cheesecake to savoury sauces. Gooseberries Usually pale green, but sometimes tinged wine-red, these tart berries resemble translucent grapes. Their peculiar name stems from the fact that they were traditionally used in Britain as a sauce for roast goose. In Canada, the berry remains decidedly underappreciated, as few are aware of its versatility, taste and nutritional benefits. The abundance of pectin in the berries makes them a natural for jams and jellies. Their fresh, tart flavour also renders them a superb substitute for lemons in classic lemon desserts like meringue pie. They shine in savoury applications too; cooked and only lightly sweetened, they make an excellent sauce that marries beautifully with fish and poultry. In addition to unrivalled taste, the berries boast a host of nutrients. They’re rich in vitamin C, carotenoids, chromium, magnesium, potassium, and fibre. Emerging research suggests the thin-skinned berries can help regulate blood sugar, heal gastric ulcers and reduce the risk for oral cancer. Loganberries This wine-red berry, a blackberry and raspberry hybrid, is the creation of California horticulturalist James Harvey-Logan, who produced the first cultivar in 1881. Loganberries now grow wild and in cultivation throughout the Pacific Northwest. Popular in the early 20th century, loganberries were eventually eclipsed by other hybrid berries that were less fragile and easier to transport. Today loganberries are enjoying a welldeserved renaissance. Their succulent taste makes them perfect for eating out of hand, but they also shine in preserves, fruit syrups, pies and other baked goods. A piquant sauce made from loganberries can also add an intriguing note to roast meats. If you’re not persuaded to try them for their scrumptious taste, you may be won over by their nutritional profile. Rich in vitamins C and K, B vitamins, copper and manganese, loganberries are also abundant in ellagic and gallic acids. These beneficial acids have anti-viral, anti-carcinogenic and anti-bacterial properties. Salmonberries You may not find these orange-hued berries in the supermarket, but you might on a trek through the forest. Indigenous to North America, salmonberries inhabit the entire West Coast, from Alaska to California. The bushes that produce these sweet berries—a member of the Rose family—tend to cluster in forests and near streams. You can use salmonberries as you would any other summer berry, but I find their inherently sweet flavour makes eating them raw one of the West Coast’s best culinary experiences. Salmonberries are also gaining notoriety among oenophiles for their ability to produce a superb wine (see www.kermodewildberry.com for more information). Like their other berry brethren, they’re irrefutable superfoods—rich in carotenoids, vitamins A, C and K, manganese and fibre. S Please check out the new “Good for You” review feature on the EAT website (eatmagazine.ca) under the Food tab. Pam will be regularly reviewing healthy new products, health-enhancing getaways, restaurants and more. If you have a product you’d like reviewed, please contact editor@eatmagazine.ca

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foraging — by Simon Nattrass

Summer’s Bounty Foraging on Vancouver Island is about as easy as falling off a log.

R

SUMMER IS DEFINED by abundance, making this season an ideal time for even the most inexperienced forager to start eating wild. Wildcrafting in these days is often as simple as looking in your backyard. The first thing to catch your eye should be the wide variety of berries that populate the forests, fields and even ditches throughout the Cascadia region. The southern island is home to delicate salmonberries, decadent wild strawberries and the prolific, though often neglected, salal berry. Similar to blueberries, but with a delicious, earthy undertone ubiquitous in creatures of the forest floor, salal is one of the most versatile berries available in the late summer. Ripe from August through September, the dark purple fruit is great in sauces, preserves or as a base for fruit leather. In a batch of homemade ice cream, the deep and nearly black berries impart a delicate flavour and tantalizing blue colour, providing a smooth conclusion to any late summer meal. Berries aren’t the only treasure to be found on your next afternoon hike. Known for their nutty, earthy flavour, porcini mushrooms can be found in hardwood forests throughout the northern hemisphere. These mushrooms will hold their own in stews or gravies, but for the full effect, nothing beats fried porcini, garlic and butter tossed with generous amounts of fresh parsley. (note: caution should be exercised when picking wild foods as many similar looking plants may be poisonous) The last thing I want in the summer heat is a dense, heavy meal and the Pacific pink salmon is the perfect anchor for any lighter dish. While not as rich as other salmon, the flaky and delicate pinks are a great hook-to-plate treat owing to their relative abundance compared to other species. Pink salmon don’t keep well, though, and will turn mushy and bland if frozen or canned, making them the ideal dinner after a successful fishing trip with the simple addition of lemon and dill. For the adventurous locavore, Canoe Brewpub chef Gabriel Milne recommends one way to combine these ingredients. Milne suggests gravlax cured with red beet and salal berries paired with roasted porcini mushrooms, as well as a young garlic salad with Meyer lemon vinaigrette and garnished with bull’s blood (a deep red micro beet green). Salal berry and beet juice impart a deep purple touch to the salmon, complementing its rich orange flesh and lending an almost floral look to your plate. The porcini add an earthy undertone while a touch of lemon and olive oil help round out the meal’s intensity. Summer provides us with a host of Victoria brews to complement the flavours I’ve mentioned. This season’s go-to beer is the hefeweizen, or any similarly styled wheat beer. The Phillips Wheat King and Vancouver Island Beachcomber are both seasonal offerings that will complement the delicate flavours of a freshly caught and simply prepared pink salmon. If you’re planning to feature the heartier flavours of porcini or a heavily seasoned salmon dish, the fruitiness and creamy texture of a wheat beer can quickly become overwhelming. Thankfully, summer also brings us a wide selection of pilsner-style lagers. Choose a straw-coloured, crisply hopped beer to balance out buttery mushrooms and cleanse the palate of any competing fishy taste. For Milne’s recipe suggestion, Canoe brewmaster Dan Murphy recommends his Red Canoe Lager. Pale yellow with citrus notes and a hint of grassy earthiness, this beer should not only pair well with the late summer salad but also open your palate to the rich porcini and sweet red beet and salal. Summer’s bounty is sure to yield something to fit anyone’s tastes, but before you harvest, remember a few principles of wildcrafting: Never take more than 10 percent of what’s available, always be sure of what you’re harvesting and, most important, take care to leave plants healthier than when you arrived (for instance, trimming dead leaves.) Take care of the ecosystem and it will take care of you. S Canoe Brewpub, 450 Swift St., Victoria, canoebrewpub.com Phillips Brewing Co., phillipsbeer.com Vancouver Island Brewery, vanislandbrewery.com

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reporter — Victoria Catalano Restaurant Catalano Restaurant and Cicchetti Bar | 619 Courtney St., Victoria | 250-480-1824 | catalanorestaurant.com

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lfrom left to right: Tom Ferris, Chef Aaron Lawrence, Dave Craggs. below: Grilled local octopus with confit fingerling potatoes, grilled chorizo, preserved lemon, smoked paprika.

Rebecca Wellman

The recently opened Catalano Restaurant and Cicchetti Bar at the corner of Courtney and Gordon Streets is the latest attempt to turn a prime piece of downtown Victoria real estate into a successful eatery. Attached to the Magnolia Hotel, the space has been home to a noisy pub, a couple of steak houses, an Asian fusion restaurant and, most recently, an aptly named joint called 50 Nights, all opening and closing since the Magnolia opened 15 years ago. Catalano is the vision of Tom Ferris and Dave Craggs, owners of the popular Ferris’ Oyster Bar, and chef Aaron Lawrence. Lawrence describes Catalano as “Mediterranean-inspired, Italian-leaning, but not classic Italian. We want to create a fun eating atmosphere. We’re using as many local ingredients as we can in a menu I’ve drawn from all points in my career and training in Europe.” Before returning to Victoria to lead kitchens at Swan’s Saffron Bistro and Canoe Brewpub, Lawrence spent six years working in restaurants in Switzerland. His new restaurant draws heavily from that European experience, particularly the cicchetti, literally little bites, inspired by Venetian bar food. Catalano is a bright and airy room on three levels with comfortable banquettes and floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on a busy streetscape. When my wife and I visited Catalano recently on a warm, spring evening, the restaurant was buzzing with TGIF energy. A large group was enjoying drinks around a big table at the front of the restaurant, and the bar was packed and keeping two bartenders busy mixing drinks and serving cicchetti. We got into the spirit immediately with two of Kyle Serra’s delicious, signature cocktails. My Pistachio Fizz was a summery blend of Cuban white rum, pistachio orgeat, egg whites and soda. We nibbled bits of chicken livers on toast with dried fig, port and onion marmalade while sharing our cocktails. My wife’s Venetian Spritz was a fine, bittersweet blend of Pinot Grigio, Aperol, green olive and soda that rekindled some of my fondest Italian travel memories. Our server, Anne Plante, was an old favourite of ours from her tenure at Oak Bay’s Vis à Vis. She helped us select a couple of mains with her usual vivacious charm and unpretentious knowledge of food and wine. My wife selected the spinach and ricotta gnudi served with braised Sunwing Farm tomatoes, arugula and pine nut salad. I sampled her dish, and it was rich with ricotta. Still dreaming of Italy inspired by my wife’s Venetian Spritz, I chose Chef’s pappardelle, the large noodles swimming in a cream sauce laced with porcini mushrooms and peppery pancetta with big hunks of slow-cooked, tender short ribs. It was so rich and satisfying that I passed on dessert, but I’ll be back to try something sweet after more of Lawrence’s cicchetti. I want to sample Chef’s housemade chorizo and crispy, fried octopus as well as his take on the daily catch along with more of Serra’s cocktail creations. The new Catalano looks like my go-to spot for summer in the city BY JOSEPH BLAKE


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Charelli’s & Co. Charelli’s & Co. | 2863 Foul Bay Rd | 250-598-4794 | www.charellis.com

Colin Hynes

above: Ana Hunt and Carmen Lassooij. below: “PbPb & C” grilled sandwich Charelli’s Cheese Shop & Delicatessen has been open a long time in Victoria—it celebrates its 10-year anniversary in September. But like any good establishment, it is always re-inventing itself. In 2003, owners Carmen Lassooij and Nicole Ingram were in a smaller space, just a few doors down from their current location, with their much smaller selection of goods all stacked along one wall. Then, they moved into the space the deli is in now, with room for more shelving and a broader range of delicious food. The latest evolution involves chef Ana Hunt, formerly of Paprika Bistro and Stage, teaming up with Lassooij and Ingram to create Charelli’s & Co. The trio took over an old storefront in January—most recently used as a private wine-tasting room—and have turned it into a small breakfast-and-lunch-only café just a few doors up from the deli. The menu isn’t huge, but it is well thought out; and, just like the deli, it stays true to the philosophy of reinvention. Menu items change every Thursday, yet there is a consistent structure to the menu each week: a hot sandwich, a cold sandwich, a pressed sandwich, a breakfast sandwich and an ice cream sandwich from Cold Comfort as well as a skillet dish, two plated dishes, soup and a ploughman’s platter. “You can’t buy this much cheese and meat from the deli for this price!” says Hunt enthusiastically. Bread comes from two local Esquimalt bakeries—Portuguese buns from Casanova Bakery and red wheat bread from Fry’s.

Colin Hynes

TASTE THE VERY BEST OF BC IN DOWNTOWN VICTORIA The skillet for the week I went was the “Duck Duck Goose Skillet,” a hash of duck egg baked atop duck confit with goose sausage and a serving of mushrooms, Gruyère and black truffle. Flavours were well balanced, the goose sausage was particularly succulent, and the richness of the duck egg added a smooth texture throughout. Also on the menu was the “PbPb & C” grilled sandwich, known longhand as the peanut butter, pear, bacon jam and cheese sandwich. Definitely addictive. In fact, it’s the only item that stays on the menu week to week. Charelli’s & Co. serves a variety of sodas, juices and Canterbury coffee, but the best drinks come from their soda stream. Ask for a flavour to be added or go with the house water, which is spritzed with flavoured bitters from Victoria Spirits. Bubbly and revitalizing, especially on a hot summer day. Now, with Charelli’s & Co. and Charelli’s Cheese Shop & Delicatessen only steps apart, you can get a great lunch then hop over to the deli and stock up until next week. BY COLIN HYNES CONT’D TOP OF THE NEXT PAGE

LOCATION The Hudson Building 1701 Douglas Street, Victoria HOURS OF OPERATION Tuesday - Saturday 9:30-6:30 Sundays 9:30-5

VictoriaPublicMarket.com

Facebook.com/VictoriaDowntownMarket

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EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

Chef Survival

Challenge VI

extreme 2013 national debut Madrona Farm 08.Sept.2013

WHEN I VISITED MADRONA FARM’S produce stand on Blenkinsop Road recently, Nathalie Chambers was busy selling farm-fresh vegetables to a steady stream of customers. Between sales she told me about this year’s Chef Survival Challenge on September 8 at Madrona Farm as well as the brand-new Vancouver-based Challenge a week later at Delta’s Westham Island Herb Farm. “This year’s theme addresses losses in farmland and Canada’s failure of its UN-issued 2012 Food Security Test. That failure showed 2.5 million people in Canada are food insecure, 900,000 of which are children,” says Natalie as she pops a huge bunch of salad greens into a bag for a customer. To address the issue of food insecurity, the popular Chef Challenge has gone mobile to become the first-ever travelling road show of this type. For five years now, Victoria food lovers have been coming to this playful culinary arts performance to cheer on chefs as they hurdle haystacks on an obstacle course that includes a climbing wall, zip-line, monkey bars, a balance beam over a bottomless mud pit and a boat race to “Condiment Island.” All of this is done while they race around Madrona’s 24 acres to forage vegetables for their culinary masterpieces. “We’re hitting Vancouver Island first,” says Nathalie enthusiastically, “because it is the most threatened and best farmland in Canada. It is a market failure that farmland is speculated on at the same price as residential real estate.” The Madrona Farm model is sustainable, she explains, because the Land Trust now owns the land and can offer a long-term lease plus, adds Nathalie, “determine ecological agricultural practices.” Some 3,500 people

ORIA’S

THEY’LL COMPETE IN A CHALLENGING FARMSTYLE OBSTACLE COURSE, FORAGE FOR THEIR VEGETABLES, AND CREATE THEIR MASTERPIECES ALL ON SURVIVAL GEAR AND CAMP STOVES.

sponsorship because we hope to add Calgary and Toronto events in 2014.” Ten Victoria-area chefs, including Brasserie L’école’s Sean Brennan and Camille’s Stephan Drolet, will compete at Madrona Farm for the coveted Golden Broccoli Trophy. Individual tickets are $40 or $100 for a family of two adults and two children ($15 per additional family member). People at the event bid on the winning meal produced by the chefs while Smoken Bones Cookshack’s John Brooks and Colin Mann will cook up Texas-style barbecue for folks who don’t win one of the 10 meals produced. There will also be live music and a kid’s tent. “This event is reasonably priced to give everyone the opportunity to reconnect to the farm,” says Nathalie as she accepts payment for a fistful of fragrant leeks. “If you cannot afford a ticket, consider volunteering. Chef Survival Challenge is a big party for a great cause.” —Joseph Blake

PROCEEDS TO FARMLAND CONSERVATION THROUGH THE BIG DREAM FARM FUND!

GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY AT WWW.CHEFSURVIVALCHALLENGE.COM TICKETS $40 - FAMILIES $100 For times, tickets,

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ALARISDESIGN DESIGN UPPER PHOTO COURTESY GREG ASPA WWW.ASPAPHO .COM

A

donated $2.7 million to save Madrona, and Nathalie

and David are happy to FUN report that the farm, which has A HILARIOUSLY EVENT been in the Chambers family since 1951, is thriving. FORChefTHE WHOLE FAMILY! Survival Challenge is an awareness-building fundraiser for the Big Dream Farm Fund supporting ... RECONNECT TTOO THE FARM F sustainable farmland like Madrona Farm across Canada. “Three past winners willCULINARY be joining us in Vancouver EVENT INCLUDES and challenging mainland chefs who think they’ve got ARTS PERFORMANCE, FEAST, what it takes. We’re looking for business and corporate sponsors for the expanded Chef Survival Challenge,” MUSIC, KIDS TENT! NOON-5PM she continues. “In fact, we’re looking for national

sponsorship and volunteer information, go to www.chefsurvivalchallenge.com. Tickets $40 - Families $100

reporter — Cowichan Stone Soup Inn Stone Soup Inn | 6755 Cowichan Lake Rd. | 250-749-3848| stonesoupinn.ca Brock Windsor is living every chef’s dream, although it’s a dream that requires 16-hour days and seven-day workweeks. Windsor and his wife run Stone Soup Inn, a critically acclaimed farm restaurant and tworoom bed and breakfast nestled in the forest near a bend in the Cowichan River. Named after an old folktale about making something from nothing, Stone Soup Inn is a four-acre paradise of gardens, farm animals and fine dining. My wife and I visited the Cowichan Valley this spring when pink fawn lilies, trilliums and bleeding hearts were putting on a show in the verdant woods. Chef Windsor had collected morel and oyster mushrooms and was tending his Rhode Island Red hens and rare Mulefoot pigs when we arrived for our meal and stay at his inn. Stone Soup is also home to ducks, turkeys and Clun Forest sheep. Before opening Stone Soup Inn in 2010, Windsor won critically praise for his cooking at Sooke Harbour House and Bearfoot Bistro in Whistler. At Stone Soup, he prepares a $65 five-course, chef’s tasting menu Thursday-Saturday (a menu that changes daily with the season), with an added $35 for wines paired with the meal. Brock’s farm restaurant has garnered a top-5 spot in enRoute magazine’s best new restaurants in Canada, a silver award in Vancouver Magazine and silver for Remotest with the Mostest in EAT’s Exceptional Eats Awards. The inn’s dining room was toasty from a roaring fire in the woodstove, and candlelight and an eclectic mix of jazz on the sound system set a romantic ambiance. Maple slap tables, First Nation’s art and windowsills lined with river stones and canning jars packed with dried fruit accented the room’s natural beauty. Outside our window in the twilight, Windsor took a saber to the crown cap of a Venturi-Schulze 2009 Brut, a gently sparkling beginning to a great meal. A salad of butter lettuce, toasted hazelnuts, mild blue goat cheese from a nearby farm and Chef’s warm, radish vinaigrette featuring Venturi-Schulze balsamic vinegar was followed by a glass of dry, white Venturi-Schulze 2008 Shönburger. The delicate asparagus and mushroom soup that arrived next was made from morels gathered that morning and asparagus grown at Lake Cowichan’s Pedrosa Farm. A well-balanced Averill Creek Pinot Gris was perfectly matched with Windsor’s light-touch, buttery lingcod plated with wild oyster mushrooms and the bite of perennial arugula, marinated Japanese radish and chives from the garden. A dark, fruity 2007 Alderlea Matrix was paired with flavourful Muscovy duck breast in black currant jus, with asparagus, potato rosti and sweet blue Hubbard squash. Windsor is a confident, non-showy chef who trusts the quality of his ingredients and knows how to put them together on the plate. This rural favourite highlighted all those qualities, as did the chef’s dessert. Served with a glass of fortified, port-like Merridale Winter Apple Cider, Windsor’s Braeburn apple ice cream and rhubarb compote was a delicious blend of farmyard elegance, a sweet and sour magic trick that capped an evening’s fine dining. We shuffled up to our room hardly believing that the talented chef would cook us a big, farm breakfast the next morning. BY JOSEPH BLAKE


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Pictured on this page: Stone Soup Inn Salad with Lake Cowichan morels, Cowichan Bay asparagus, perennial arugula, fava beans & wild nodding onion vinaigrette

Rebecca Wellman

CONT’D TOP OF THE NEXT PAGE

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vancouver

Burdock & Co. 2702 Main St. | 604.879.0077 | www.burdockandco.com The opening of another restaurant with a local-sustainable bent isn’t necessarily news, but when the chef/owner is the likes of Andrea Carlson, the buds perk up in anticipation—and rightly so. Burdock & Co. is Carlson’s first venture as both owner and chef, and is as pure an expression of her principles about food as I have ever tasted. Carlson’s former EC stints at Raincity Grill and Bishop’s honed her trademark style of refined yet approachable dishes, and that style is unleashed in full at Burdock. Even the room is in line with the culinary ethos. Reclaimed rough planks are staggered on one wall in seemingly random but cohesive patterns. More reclaimed wood graces the bar at the back of the long narrow room. Cocktail glasses are housed in an old-fashioned medicine cabinet and small, black and white hexagonal tiles create a baseboard of sorts for the bar. It’s an open concept and kitchen, with comfortable high top and banquet seating, and a large communal table at the front that encourages friendly shoulder-rubbing with one’s neighbours. The menu overall is one of balance, with an emphasis on clean, crisp flavours and not too many ingredients on plate. Roasted green farro ($10) is made extraordinary with the addition of fermented black garlic, an ingredient I am tempted to knock back like bar nuts. Despite the focus on vegetables— lots of vegan and vegetarian dishes for herbivores—there’s plenty of meat on the menu. Fresh oysters ($15) out of the shell are topped with finger lime “caviar” and small, almost sweet radishes. An apple and verbena sorbet lends subtle herbal notes to contrast with the briny quality of the mollusks. Fried chicken and pickles ($12) might sound odd, but is a tender, moist plate of crispy strips sided with lightly pickled beets and onions, with a drizzle of charred chili vinegar to counteract the richness of the meat. The drinks menu is equally focused. Bittered Sling bitters and local sake muddle with gin and fresh herbals for delicate, food-friendly cocktails and “natural” craft brews and organic wines round things out nicely. There are even some hooch-free concoctions for designated drivers or confirmed teetotallers. Open daily from 5pm. No reservations. BY ANYA LEVYKH

La Mezcaleria 1622 Commercial Drive | 604.559.8226 | www.lamezcaleria.ca Mexican food, especially tacos and other regional fare, has long had a bad rap in Vancouver. But when La Taqueria opened their first location on West Hastings, there was a long, loud cry of “Olé!” from the food cognoscenti. The soft, small, authentic corn tacos held a bevy of local meats and vegetables, like the popular beef tongue and pulled pork varieties. With two locations now going strong, the time was ripe to expand again, this time in a slightly new direction, onto Commercial Drive. La Mezcaleria has the honour of being Canada’s first mezcal bar. What is mezcal? It’s a spirit, similar to tequila, distilled from steamed agave heart mash. Various species of agave plant can be used to make mezcal, as opposed to tequila, which is only made from the blue agave plant. There are an even dozen different mezcales on the menu—and an equal number of tequilas—as well as mezcal-based cocktails, like the mezcal sour ($11), made with cointreu, lemon, egg white and gomme, a type of simple syrup traditionally used in classic cocktails made from natural gum instead of sugar. The syrup adds a silky texture to the cocktail and softens the flavour of the mezcal without overpowering it. As for the food, while the popular tacos from the La Taqueria menus do exist here, they only make up a quarter of the menu. Ceviche ($7.50) made from pacific red snapper is lightly and perfectly doused in citrus, cilantro, Serrano, tomato and red onion. Guacamole ($6.50) is made to order, and whispers of jalapeño, lime, cilantro and fresh onion. Both dishes come with the housemade tostadas, crunchy chips with little grease and load of flavour. Fondues are not normally my thing, but the queso fundido ($15) puts others in its class to shame. The cheese is thick, honest and oily, thanks in no small measure to the add-on of Mexican chorizo that we opted for. It comes with a basket of fresh, warm corn tacos, soft and ready to wrap around copius amounts of gloopy cheese and rich sausage. If you’ve never tried flautas, the small, rolled crispy corn tortillas stuffed with vegetables or meat, I highly recommend you remedy the sitation, muy pronto. Mine had mashed potatoes and roasted garlic, topped with fresh cheese and crème fraîche. It really does deserve an “olé!” BY ANYA LEVYKH

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Longtail Kitchen #116 – 810 Quayside Drive, New Westminster | 604.553.3855 | www.longtailkitchen.com When it comes to Thai food in Vancouver, chef Angus An has long held the culinary crown at Maenam, his popular Kitsilano eatery. Now, An has expanded his holdings, all the way out to New Westminster, with the opening of Longtail Kitchen. Named after the iconic Thai water taxis, the food takes a more casual, street-fare approach, redolent of an Asian night market—albeit with inventive twists and local ingredients. The waterfront theme is in keeping with the restaurant’s location at the newly revived River Market Quay. And it’s in good company, with neighbours like Wild Rice and Re-Up BBQ. The bright space has garage-door windows facing onto the boardwalk and river, and a small patio space that will likely be full in the warm months. The room itself is bright and open, with splashes of colour and patterned tiles popping out from neutral walls. One wall of reclaimed diamond-patterned planks forms a backdrop for floating white shelves. In addition to the casual menu, the room also doubles as a retail space by day, selling mortars and pestles, cookbooks, noodle kits and spices. By night, cooking classes and chef dinners are on the menu. This is casual lunch fare, so no license, just cans of coconut water and pops in keeping with the night market theme. As for the food, think hearty stews, skewers, noodle bowls and mussels. Restaurant chef Justin Cheung has a mean hand with the grilled chicken satays ($6), which are marinated in coconut cream and then a turmeric rub. They’re sided with a tiny dish of fresh cucumber relish, zippy and light on the tongue, as well as housemade peanut sauce. Green papaya salad ($6) is heavy on flavour contrasts, with green beans, cherry tomatoes, peanuts and shrimp powder. A slight lick of heat from some subtle chili runs through the dish, creating a spicy-sweet contrast that both refreshes and satiates the palate. Chicken kao soi ($8) is another winner, a large, steaming bowl of northern chiang mai style noodles. It’s a fresh take on a classic Thai dish, with less sauce and more substance. A thigh and drumstick is fork-tender, served over slurpy thick noodles in a turmeric and chili-laced curry sauce, topped with fresh bean sprouts, cilantro and deep-fried crispy egg noodles. BY ANYA LEVYKH

DAYS DAYS OF SUMMER featuring WATERMELON W ATERMELON M MARGARITA ARGARITA ARGARIT A ENJOY ENJOY FOR FOR A LIMITED TIME | M MAY AY 28 – SEP SEPT T2

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Moss Street Market opens ‘Chef’s Stage’ VICTORIA: June 15 through October 26. At each market two local chefs will host food demonstrations (10am to noon and noon to 2pm). The demonstrations will be made at the two new ‘Chef’s Stage’ tents near the corner of Moss Street and Fairfield Road. Chefs will include: Michael Williams, Dan Hayes, Garrett Schack, Heidi Fink, Dwyane McIssac, Bill Jones, Jeff Keenliside, and more… www.MossStreetMarket.com

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A Wandering Feast Victoria’s Culinary Tours are brilliantly orchestrated Whenever a food-loving friend or relative comes to visit Victoria, I find myself planning out an itinerary that revolves entirely around edibles - and sippables. I have a deep desire to share all the best tastes that the city has to offer, and have a hard time doing anything other than shepherding my guests from bakery to restaurant to brewpub. If the visit is only a couple of days long I struggle to fit everything in and end up disappointed that there wasn’t time to check more items off my list. Recently, a solution to this problem occurred to me: why not take my guests on one of Victoria’s culinary tours? These brilliantly orchestrated tours bypass the annoying problem of ‘only three meals a day’, offering little bites and sips at a number of stops on a set route. More than that, they offer interesting historical commentary and give visitors a behind the scenes experience at some of the best kitchens and food shops around town. I decided to familiarize myself with the city’s tours before this summer’s onslaught. The first thing I learned? These tours may be even more fun for us locals than for our guests.

The whole beast

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

Travel With Taste Tours (travelwithtaste.com) Kathy McAree is the undisputed godmother of food tours in Victoria. She launched her business, Travel with Taste, over ten years ago, offering day tours of Cowichan Valley, Sooke and Salt Spring Island to corporate clients and conference groups. During the summer months, Kathy offers a 3-hour urban culinary tour every Saturday morning. Based on the belief that culinary experiences create the best memories, Kathy’s tours are all about the stories. “The people who are in this industry are a group of intriguing artisans who work unbelievably hard. That’s what I try to show people.” A longtime member of the World Food Travel Association, Kathy says she wants Victoria to shine as a culinary destination – for visitors to get to experience our close-knit food community, where farmers, producers and chefs work together in a way that is unique to Vancouver Island. Kathy is also the founder of Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine, taking place July 25-58 (victoriataste.com). Culinary Tour of Chinatown (chefheidifink.com) Chef Heidi Fink has been offering her 2-hour culinary tours of Chinatown since 2007. She was inspired to start her tours after attending a walking tour of the neighbourhood, in which she ended up answering the many culinary questions which arose along the route. Her informative tour begins across the street from the Chinatown gate, and attendees are immediately provided with a thick guide of Heidi’s culinary shopping tips, information on Asian ingredients and a selection of her favourite Chinese and Thai recipes. The tour makes several stops on Government and Fisgard streets, with Heidi demystifying unfamiliar produce, preserves and dry goods in grocery shops, and tasting baked goods, Chinese BBQ and ending with a tea tasting at Silk Road. Heidi offers her tours year-round, though she does take part of the summer off. Check her website for more available dates. Epicure in the Village (feastconcierge.ca) Karma Brophy grew up in Oak Bay, where she spent her Saturday mornings strolling around the village with her grandfather, stopping in at the European cafés and bakeries for pretzels and bagels. After a decade operating boutique tours in the Comox Valley, Karma returned to Victoria and founded her new business – Feast Concierge and Media, which offers guided tours, customized culinary adventures and personal itinerary planning. Her Epicure in the Village tour launched this spring, offering several exclusive gourmet experiences en route. The tour begins at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel with an overview of the fascinating agricultural history of the area – you will learn about the three major farms that were first established there, why Cattle Point carries its name, and who Jimmy Chicken was. The tour then progresses through a series of tasty stops at Café Nar, The Whole Beast and Village Butcher, The Penny Farthing and Vis à Vis, Roger’s Chocolates, Ottavio’s, a magnificent crab smash at the Marina, and a dessert and whisky pairing back at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel. Karma will also be offering tours of the Victoria Public Market at the Hudson beginning this summer. —Rebecca Baugniet

S


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STONEWALL KITCHEN Dress for the

occasion

Available exclusively in British Columbia through Dovre Imports Ltd. sales@dovreimport.com | www.dovreimport.com | 800.370.3850

made in usa

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eating well for less — by Elizabeth Smyth Monk

QSushi and SerendipityQ Lovers, night owls and Hernande’z fans can all rejoice.

Fiamo | 515 Yates St. near Wharf | 250-388-5824 | www.fiamo.ca Here’s the deal. Go to Fiamo on a Tuesday anytime, and you get any pizza for only $9. Go to Fiamo’s on a Friday from 4 to 7 p.m., and you get two-for-one appetizers/small plates that can easily be merged into a meal. Let’s start with the Tuesdays. The pizzas in question are fresh

and

creative.

My

shaved

prosciutto pizza had a chewy, highquality crust, lashings of tomato sauce, chèvre, slivered almonds and, the pièce been braised in Chianti. On Fridays, the two-for-one appetizers include those from the fresh sheet as well as the main

1

2

3

menu. The fresh sheet was most auspicious the day I went. Shrimp in Sambuca—six jumbo shrimp in a peppery cream sauce—had, wisely, just a whisper of the Italian liqueur. A sautéed scallop

Moss St. Market

appetizer

was

surprisingly

generous, with two very large, plump and juicy scallops on a bed of spinach and peppery tomato sauce. The spinach was definitely a component rather than a garnish,

making this dish more like

a mini entrée. The regular appetizer menu includes meatballs, steamed mussels, a cheese and meat platter and calamari with aioli. The prices range from $10 to $15. Cut that down to

4

roughly half-price with the two-for-one (you’re billed for your more expensive appetizer), and it’s a tasty deal. Which

1 2 3 4

Clockwise from top left: Chef James Avila Sambucca prawns White wine steamed mussels Goat cheese salad: tomato, breaded and fried goat cheese, olive tapenade and arugula with a balsamic reduction

is also, not incidentally, in an attractive space complete with a walnut bar, exposed brick walls, and heated outdoor patio. I think we’ve all had an eyeroll moment upon being unable to find kitchens open after 9 p.m in this town, so it’s worth noting that the full menu is available until midnight Sunday to Thursday, and until 1:00 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

Elizabeth Nyland

Elizabeth Nyland

de résistance, sweet dense figs that had


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Chorizo Coronados

CELEBRATING 40 YEARS

Elizabeth Nyland

WWW.OUGHTRED.COM

Hernande’z on Bay | 1600 Bay St | 250-884-5313 | www.hernandezcocina.com Longtime followers of the Victoria food scene are familiar with Hernande’z, from its first days on Pandora, to the tiny space on View Street that was sometimes open, sometimes not, to its current location in St. Andrew’s Square. A second location is now, or should I say again, open at Bay and Shakespeare, but it’s not just the location that’s different—so are some of the menu items. The format is “antojitos,” which roughly means small plates or appetizers. Aside from the burritos, no dish is over $6. These “small plates” are kind of big small plates. The Tostada Frijoles has two crisp yellow tostadas lovingly covered with black beans, purple cabbage and fresh, hand-cut salsa. The chef and owner Jercon is from Cojutepeque, El Salvador, and specializes in chorizo, which is reason enough to try the chorizo version. The Coronados are supercute (a word I’m sure the Larousse Gastronomique writers would approve of). In this variation, corn masa is patted into what the French would call a gallette. The base of this de facto tarte is then stuffed with fried beans and topped with garnishes of salsa and sour cream. Jercon explains that Latin-American cuisine plays with texture because they don’t have a lot of different ingredients. To me, serendipity was always part of the charm of the old, pre-St. Andrew’s Square Hernande’z; you never knew if it would be open or not, and the concept of opening and closing hours was very fluid. Well, the hours at Hernande’z on Bay are fixed, but there is some serendipity. Attached to a board offering espresso, Americano, cappuccino and latte is a qualifying note: “When Rob’s here.” Rob was not there when I was there, so …good luck to you. It might be worth some hunting though, because “Rob” is Rob Kettner, who has won a national barista championship and has carefully selected coffee from the local Bows and Arrows Coffee Roasters. So the quirks are there, but so are consistent hours of 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on weekdays and 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on weekends. And as always, there is great food. CONT’D TOP OF THE NEXT PAGE

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Itami Sushi | 708 View St. at Blanshard | 250-381-8868 | www.itamisushi.com Itami Sushi stimulates the senses. The red seats, the gleaming bar, the sexy, intimate booths all create a sultry space. This is a place to come for a date and exchange lingering glances over a drink, and, incidentally, enjoy some Japanese food. The focus on presentation extends to the plates. Spring rolls are presented in a martini glass, and the stir-fried asparagus appetizer is attractively accented with pink masago (fish eggs). A do-not-miss dish for $9.95 is the yam and tempura roll. Thin slices of avocado are arrayed like petals on top of the roll and then shredded, deep-fried yam is tumbled over top, creating a tumultuous, jubilant roll bursting with colour. Another piece of artwork on a plate that you’ll want to share is the Special Sashimi for $24.95. The prawns and scallops were sweet and fresh, and the eye was as entertained as the mouth by a gorgeous garnish of slivered carrot and a leaf of lettuce emerging from a roll of paper-thin cucumber, like flowers from a vase. I recommended coming here for a date, but, of course, the restaurant can also put on a quick lunch, such as the bento box for $12.95. The rice comes with a special sesame sauce, which is an odd pinky-beige colour, but no matter—it was rich and tasty. The miso is robust, not watery, which I enjoy. Finally, it includes a tiny science-defying dessert called deep-fried milk, which I haven’t seen in other bentos in town. I was sharing the box with my daughter, and the server graciously brought a second bowl of complimentary miso soup so we could both enjoy that easily. It’s that kind of thoughtfulness that creates a level of service that matches the beauty of the décor.

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

The Special Sashimi: two kinds of tuna, salmon, squid, scallops, spot prawn heads and tails, snapper, tako (octopus) and garnishes (cucumber, shiso leaf, grated daikon and wasabi paste.

Yam tempura roll served with thin strips of deep fried yam and a miso sauce

Elizabeth Nyland


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books

Craft Beer Revolution:

The Insider’s Guide to B.C. Breweries

Perfectly placed in the South Okanagan

By Joe Wiebe Douglas & Mcintyre Victoria beer writer Joe Wiebe’s timing couldn’t be any better. Craft Beer Revolution: The Insider’s Guide to B.C. Breweries captures the B.C. craft beer scene in its ascendancy. Though, as he carefully chronicles in the book, craft beer (or “microbrews,” back in the day) has been present in the province since the early ’80s, there really has been a revolution in recent years. Wiebe, as a longtime resident of the province and avid local craft beer consumer, is the perfect person to pen a guide such as this. His enthusiasm for and knowledge about the local brew scene comes through in every one of the 228 pages. He has been writing about it professionally since 2006—in local and national publications—but has been an advocate of flavourful, well-made brews for decades. His passion for the topic is infectious. This well-organized guide—broken down into regions—has everything a craft beer drinker interested in B.C. brews would need, whether they’re neophytes or diehard beer geeks. Every brewery and brewpub in the province (at least those open at the time of publishing) is profiled in the book and tasting notes are offered for several of their beers Wiebe recommends. He isn’t shy, however, about noting when the quality isn’t quite up to snuff, a refreshing approach that will ultimately help raise the game of the entire industry. Amidst the 50 brewery profiles, Wiebe has also sprinkled short sidebars on everything from the history of hop growing in B.C. to a listing of all the new craft breweries set to open in the near future. This guide is absolutely packed with information, all spun in Wiebe’s folksy writing style. His voice is authoritative, but approachable—like a drinking buddy eager to tell you all about something exciting he’s discovered. This is the kind of guide that could stay in print and continue to be updated every couple of years as the industry continues to grow. Wiebe has captured a zeitgeist moment in B.C. craft beer history and his book will surely help spread the word of the province’s ongoing craft beer revolution. —Adem Tepedelen

e t i B a d n a r e e B A The Beer: Steamworks Pilsner (BC) Starts off with a snap of crisp carbonation and finishes with an extra hoppy kick. In between look for malt and citrus. A nice quench on a hot summer day. 5% alc.

P

erfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.

www.tinhorn.com

+

The Bite: Hot Smoked Salmon Hook Fine Foods on Fort Street in Victoria smokes and cures their own seafood. This month we have three bites: a super moist and oily sockeye filet; hook & line caught, wild chinook nuggets; and a peppered coho filet. We’re hooked.

Colin Hynes

The Conclusion: We love the smokey, sweet richness of the salmon against the lemony, fresh tasting and slightly bitter westcoast pilsner. A perfect lazy days summer combo.

RESTAURANT

MARTINI & WINE BAR

h Nyland

www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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people – by Jeff Bateman

C

ity mouse, country mouse: That’s Mike Murphy’s lifestyle these days, he says with a baritone laugh as we wander down a tractor-rutted lane at North Saanich’s Bonne Terre Farm. Not that this legend of the Vancouver Island restaurant trade is the least meek or mild judging by the gusto with which he’s tackled fresh challenges over the past 35 years. “I’m spending half the week here in the farmhouse, the other half in town. I love the peace and quiet, plus I get my share of urban pleasures. Can’t beat that.” A potato farm originally and a horse ranch since the 1930s, the spread south of Victoria International Airport has been Murphy’s for just 18 months. Sparing no expense, he’s hired the likes of farm manager Shelley MacDonald and fruit-tree specialist Bob Duncan to fast-track its evolution into a model, high-yield organic farm with extensive vegetable plots, an orchard, beehives and menagerie of ethically raised critters. Bonne Terre is the lynchpin in Murphy’s farm-to-fork masterplan serving his three tourist-zone Victoria restaurants: Pescatores Seafood & Grill, The Oyster and especially the relaunched Bon Rouge Bistro, which shed its continental trappings in April to become the 10 Acres Bistro, Bar & Market. “It’s a closed-loop system right down to taking restaurant compost and plowing it back into the soil,” he says. “I’m hardly the first to say this, but the peninsula and Cowichan can become to Victoria what Sonoma is to San Francisco. We’re part of making that happen.” It’s been a steep learning curve for an urban Victoria kid whose dad was big in local real estate. In fact, his lone hobby farming experience had been a Yellow Point sheep farm back in the ’80s that was a “total disaster,” he confesses. This time he’s getting it right on an ambitious scale. “I’ve always had opinions about food, but I hire great chefs. Same with the people here. Total pros.” Certainly Murphy knows the restaurant game inside out. Straight from Oak Bay High, he ran a Mr. Mike’s outlet in Alberta before returning to the island to study law and wait tables at the Harbour Towers. He was enlisted by the Tommy Tucker’s rotisserie chicken chain to oversee kitchen ops for its 10 island outlets and manage two himself in Nanaimo. Back in Victoria, he launched and/or partnered in a string of notable establishments: Cecconi’s Trattoria, Il Terrazzo, 5th Street Bar & Grill and Hugo’s Steakhouse included. “This time I could have bought a nice sailboat,” muses Murphy, 55, his dogs Lucy and Oreo at his heels as he leads me back to Bonne Terre’s handsome new front gate. “A friend said, ‘Jeezus, Mike, it’s not like the restaurant business isn’t hard enough.’ And that’s true. The farm is a ton of work and the margins are slim, but I’m excited. My gut tells me it’s the right move, so it’s full-speed ahead.” www.bonrouge.ca

Out Standing in His Field Rebecca Wellman

Bonne Terre Farm is the linchpin in Mike Murphy’s farm-to-fork masterplan.

Monte Albán

Oaxacan street food

BEER LOVERS’ CULTURAL TOUR OF OAXACA, MEXICO Nov 5–13, 2013 | Hosted by Oliver Dawson and Alvin Starkman Join beer expert Oliver Dawson, and Alvin Starkman, co-owner of Oaxaca Culinary Tours and a mezcal & pulque authority, for a very special tour with a broad diversity of cultural experiences not encountered through normal touring channels. Highlights include: Day of the Dead – Hot chocolate from scratch – Making Mezcal – Zapotec Ruins – Private cooking lesson with Chef Pilar Cabrera – Oaxacan barbacoa – craft beer and local mezcal factories!

Merit Travel Victoria | 3617 Shelbourne St. 250.477.0131 | 1.800.409.1711 www.meritvacations.com/oaxaca " q{{™™ÎxÈÉ{{™™ÎÇÓN qÎ{Ǚ™N+ qÇääÓÓÎnNÓääq£££*iÌiÀ-ÌÀiiÌ]/œÀœ˜Ìœ]" x6Ó£

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

A process of making mezcal

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Contact us for more information and to book! *CDN$ per person, double occupancy. Land only. Single room supplement: $575 per person.

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s u o l u fab

WIN A WEEKEND IN VANCOUVER It’s been 15 years since EAT first cranked up the printing presses and began bringing readers the best in local food & drink. We want to continue you to give you a great food magazine. So, dear readers, let’s us know how we’re doing? Give us some feedback love and in exchange you might win a fabulous weekend for two in Vancouver. It’s easy, fill out this short EAT Reader Survey (here or online) to be entered in the contest draw. Make sure to give us your email address or phone number.*(EAT never discloses or shares personal information collected) THE PRIZE: Stay at the artful, boutique Listel Hotel (thelistelhotel.com) on Robson St. (parking, welcome gift and breakfasts are included). Enjoy dinner at the exciting small plates Forage Restaurant (foragevancouver.com). On your second night, dinner will be at the award-winning West Restaurant (westrestaurant.com) featuring contemporary regional cuisine. Hey - there’s even a transportation allowance (BC Ferry or gas). The weekend is yours - 2 days to stay, explore and eat in Vancouver compliments of EAT. Contest closes July 31. (For travel between Oct-Nov 2013) 1. How often do you eat out at restaurants? Å Once a week Å Often Å Occasionally Å Hardly ever 2. On average how much to do you spend per person when you eat out? Å Less than $20 Å $20-$50 Å $50+

#

3. Everyone needs the supermarkets for some things. But do you also support and regularly shop at small specialty stores? (ie. butchers, bakeries, delicatessens, grocers) Å Yes Å No 4. How often do you estimate you support our advertiser’s restaurants, shops or buy their products? Å Print advertisers _______ per month Å Website advertisers _______ per month 5. What do you like best about EAT? Å The recipes Å The articles Å The design Å The ads Å Other ______________________________________

6. What are your interests? Please check (√) as many as you like. Å Å Å Å Å Å

Cooking Restaurants Wine Beer Healthy eating Culinary travel

Å Å Å Å Å Å

Home decor Fashion Fitness Gardening Reading Music, Theatre

7. Do your read the print or the online version of EAT magazine? Å

Print

Å

Digital

Å

11. What would you like to see more coverage of?

Both

8. How often do you visit the EAT website? Å

Often

Å

Sometimes

Å

Never

9. Which of the following do you plan to do in the 12. How can EAT improve? Is there anything you would like to see done differently? near future? Å Kitchen renovation CONT’D ON THE NEXT PAGE Å Purchase cooking equipment/a major appliance Å Travel abroad Å Buy a condo or house 10. Please check (√) the EAT articles you read. Å CONCIERGE (event listings) TO BE ENTERED IN THE DRAW PLEASE FILL IN THE Å EPICURE AT LARGE FOLLOWING. DON’T FORGET TO GIVE US YOUR Å GET FRESH (cooking by the season) PHONE NUMBER OR EMAIL ADDRESS Å GOOD FOR YOU (healthy foods) (we will not sell or disclose any of this information) Å FOOD MATTERS 13. Gender Å REPORTER (restaurants) Å MALE Å EATING WELL FOR LESS (restaurants) Å FEMALE Å PEOPLE (people profiles) 14. What is your age bracket? Å GUEST CHEF (recipes) Å 19-24 Å LOCAL KITCHEN (recipes) Å 25-34 Å LIQUID ASSETS (wine reviews) Å 35-44 Å VINCABULARY (grape varieties & wine styles) Å 45-54 Å TERROIR (regional wines & styles) Å 55+ Å WHAT TO DRINK WITH THAT (wine & food pairings) 15. Do you work in the food, drink or hospitality Å THE BUZZ (news from around BC) industry? Å Victoria Å Yes Å Vancouver Å No Å Tofino 16. YOUR PHONE NUMBER or EMAIL ADDRESS Å Cowichan Valley The Listel Hotel Logo and Type Signature Å Nanaimo B/W and Greyscale REVERSED plaque. It is preferred to reverse with greyscale (1) type on black backgrounds. On other coloured darker backgrounds use the white (2) type versions. Å Okanagan Valley (1) (2) Å WHAT THE PROS KNOW (chefs, bartenders, baristas, shop owners)

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Or mail to: EAT CONTEST, BOX 5225, VICTORIA, BC, V8R 6N4 www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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guest chef

BIRYANI

UNDERSTANDING THE FLORAL NOTES OF INDIAN & PAKISTANI CUISINE By Khalil Akhtar Photography by Michael Tourigny

T

hink of the many cuisines of the Indian subcontinent and it is spices that immediately come to mind. Robust flavours of chili, cumin, coriander, fenugreek and turmeric add layer upon layer of flavour. Those spices are like a steady drone, a sustained chord, that echoes underneath many Indian dishes. There is a craft to that balance. Some spices together can be dissonant. Others only come alive with a particular partner. But the key always is to find a balance, so flavours speak to one another, and not allow one note to dominate. Especially when it comes to the mildest of flavourings: the floral notes. Among the fiery chilies and smoky cumin, it is the floral flavours of saffron, jasmine, rosewater, cardamom, kewra flower and orange blossom that can get lost in the collision. Even basmati rice itself is renowned for a perfumed undertone. In many dishes, it is those floral flavours that can provide a sweet, ethereal counterbalance to the sometimes overwhelming orchestra of more robust spices. The brilliant layered and baked rice dish biryani celebrates those many layers of flavour. The heat of chillies, the gentle floral notes of basmati laced with saffron, and the sharper green cardamom all come together to create one of India and Pakistan’s mutually celebrated dishes. From Lahore to Lucknow, Kashmir to Kolkata, biryani is a common thread that weaves disparate regional cuisines together. Biryani is a word used often in the Indian restaurant trade around the world. But it is a dish rarely done properly in restaurants, even in South Asia. Earlier this year, I ordered a plate at a dingy chaat stand in the ancient, bustling, walled city of Lahore, Pakistan. I shouldn’t have been surprised when I was presented with some yellow-coloured rice, with no whiff of saffron, and a few pieces of grilled chicken perched on top. It was a biryani in name alone. Biryani is a dish not suited to à-laminute restaurant-style cooking. It belongs in the home kitchen, the centre of a family-style feast replete with little bowls of chutney, skewered kebabs (also tinged with saffron) and cooling raita. Top it off with the rosewater- or kewra-flower-infused sheer khurma, a refreshing dessert of milk and noodles. RECIPES ON PG 30


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1) Khalilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spice set-up 2) Grind the spices in a mortar & pestle 3) Begin assembling the biryani by layering the cooked chicken and the thick sauce. 4) Drizzle the surface of the rice with the saffron-steeped milk. 5) Remove the finished biryani from the oven. 6) Hari Chutney 7) To serve, place the biryani on a platter and spoon on some chutney. 8) Dessert: Sheer Khurma 9) Guest chef Khalil Akhtar in the EAT kitchen.

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Chicken Biryani

chilies.

process would spoil it. If you find your food processor has

Don’t be put off by the long string of ingredients. Treat

Add the chicken and cook, turning the pieces

trouble producing a good, homogenous puree, you may

this as a two-step affair, a bit like a lasagna. First, one must

occasionally, until the sauce is very thick, about half an

need to transfer the greens to a blender to finish the job.

deal with the preparation of all the components: in this

hour. If you find the sauce is still too watery after the

case, a sort of chicken curry with a thick sauce, parboiled

chicken has cooked through, remove the chicken and

1 small bunch cilantro, including stems

rice and saffron-infused milk. Then, it is only a matter of

reduce the sauce further. The resulting dish should be very

1 bunch mint, tough stems removed (an equal amount

assembling the components, knocking it into the oven

dry compared to a more conventional chicken curry.

to the cilantro) 1 small stem of rhubarb, tough outer skin removed

and forgetting about it. After the biryani is in a steaming

Moving on to the biryani itself, warm the milk and add

heap on a platter, you can show off a little with colourful

the saffron. Set it aside, allowing the saffron to steep in

3 serrano chilies

garnishes.

the warm milk.

Juice of one lemon

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to boil.

½ tsp salt, or to taste

For the chicken:

Once the water is boiling, drain the soaking rice and add

1 Tbsp ginger-garlic paste

it to the boiling water. Set a timer for 6 minutes. Once the

Place all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse

¼ cup ghee or olive oil

6 minutes are up, check the rice. It should be partially

until completely pureed. Keeps for several days in the re-

1 large onion, thinly sliced

cooked. The grains should fall apart readily in your hand,

frigerator, but will lose its vivid green colour within an

¼ tsp turmeric

but they shouldn’t yet be entirely soft. Drain the rice in a

hour or so.

½ tsp cayenne

large strainer. Handle the rice gently from this point on,

1 tsp salt, plus more to taste

as the grains will be very delicate.

1 cinnamon stick

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Begin assembling the biryani.

Sheer Khurma

Seeds from 3 black cardamom pods, crushed

Brush the bottom of a medium-sized Dutch-oven-style

This is not the “vermicelli” you might expect. The word

Seeds from 5 green cardamom pods, crushed

pan with ghee. Add a spoonful or two of the sauce from

has been adopted in Pakistan and India for an extremely

6 cloves, crushed

the chicken to the bottom of the pan and spread it

thin sort of pasta very different from the Italian version.

¾ tsp cumin seeds

around. Then add half of the partially cooked rice to the

It is widely available in Indian grocery stores and cooks

¼ cup cashews, finely chopped

pan and spread it evenly. Layer the cooked chicken and

very quickly. My preferred brand, Salma, is also

1 cup yogurt

the thick sauce evenly over the first layer of rice. Top the

charmingly labelled “spagedy” on the package.

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, including stems

chicken with the lime juice, cilantro, mint and half of the

1 to 3 fresh green chillies, chopped

crispy onions. Spread the remaining rice on top of the

2 litres (8½ cups) milk

1 or 2 sprigs fresh mint, stems removed and chopped

chicken.

Seeds from 8 green cardamom pods, crushed

3 pounds chicken thighs, skinned (bones optional)

Drizzle the surface of the rice with the saffron-steeped milk. Cover the dish with a lid and bake for one hour.

180-200 grams South Asian-style vermicelli (one package)

For the rest:

Remove the biryani from the pan and place it on a

6 Tbsp butter

½ tsp saffron

platter. Meanwhile, sauté the raw cashews in a small

2/3 cup sugar

4 Tbsp milk

amount of ghee and sprinkle them on top. Also top with

Generous pinch of salt

2 cups crispy fried onions (available in Asian food

additional mint, cilantro and remaining fried onions. Add

¼ cup raw pistachios, ground

markets)

any other toppings you like. Serve with lemon wedges,

1-2 Tbsp rosewater or kewra water (not essence!)

2½ cups basmati rice, washed in several changes of

raita, chutney, kebabs and salad.

6 medjool dates, pitted and julienned

water and soaked for 30 minutes 2 tsp salt

Cucumber-Mint Raita

2 tbsp lime juice

Unlike the North American desire for sweet, dessert-style

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, including stems

yogurt products, Indians prefer plain or savoury yoghurt

Several sprigs of fresh mint, stems removed and leaves

as part of a main meal. It is rarely seen as a component of

chopped

dessert.

1 tsp ground green cardamom seeds Handful raw cashew nuts, whole

½ cup finely diced cucumber

Optional toppings: boiled eggs, fresh pomegranate, silverleaf

1 cup yogurt

(or varak, an edible silver garnish), lemon or lime wedges,

Finely chopped mint

flower petals, slivered almonds, rosewater

Lemon juice to taste Salt, to taste

Heat the ghee in a large sauté pan. Add the onion and

Minced serrano chili (optional)

cook, stirring, until well browned. Add the ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, cayenne pepper and salt. Continue cooking and stirring for a minute or two. Add the cinnamon stick, cardamom seeds, cloves, cumin and cashews. Cook for a further minute.

Combine all ingredients. Stir. Adjust seasoning.

Hari Chutney This is a classic, vividly green chutney that is common

Add the yogurt a little at a time, stirring as you go. Cook

throughout homes in Pakistan and Northern India.

until the ghee separates to the sides of the pan. This can

Unlike cooked chutneys, it is never seen in jars, however.

take about 10 minutes. Mix in the cilantro, mint and

Hari chutney is simply pureed greens, so the bottling

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

Additional cream or milk (if necessary) Bring the milk to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the cardamom seeds. Reduce heat and allow to simmer for 30 minutes, until slightly reduced. Remember to stir regularly to prevent the milk from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Add the sugar and salt after the milk has reduced. In a wide-bottomed pan, melt the butter on medium heat. Break up the vermicelli and add it to the butter, stirring constantly (the noodles can burn very quickly). Continue stirring and breaking up the noodles until they are evenly golden and no longer than a few centimetres. Add the reduced milk to the noodles. Stir well and remove from the heat. Add the rosewater. The consistency shouldn’t be firm like pudding or liquid like soup. It should be somewhere in the middle. Thin with additional cream if necessary. Serve slightly warm or cold, garnished with the slivers of date and ground pistachios. Khalil Akhtar is the National Food Columnist for CBC Radio One.


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local kitchen

The Big Chill Summer days are lazy and so are we, in the kitchen! We want cool food; food that rolls with the mood of relaxed and laid back. And maybe even food that isn’t hot – or at least is cooked outside. Think big dinner salads loaded with summery greens and colourful beets. Pair that with easy-going chicken kebabs splashed with big flavour from anchovy and herb sauce. And of course, it’s berry season. Try your hand at DIY yogurt, then get your chill on. Yogurt + berries + freezer = messy summer bliss.

beer chicken & sea skewers

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY 32

EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

beet salad with arugula & hazelnuts


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DIY frozen yogurt pops

a

the idea is to get really messy

Recipes on the next page www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:07 AM Page 34

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

Summer Beet Salad Keep the dressing really light and use the beet greens for the salad if they’re uber fresh. 3 golden beets, cooked 3 ruby red or Chioggia beets, cooked Sea salt & ground black pepper Handful beet greens (optional) ¼ cup + 1 tsp olive oil 1 garlic clove, minced

½ lemon, juice of 6 cups summer greens, mixed 2 sprigs fresh garden mint 1/4 cup sunflower seeds ¼ cup toasted chopped hazelnuts or almonds

Slice beets into a mix of wedges and rounds. Place in a large bowl and generously season with salt and pepper. Coarsely chop beet greens. Heat 1 tsp oil in a frying pan and set over medium-high heat. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, then add beet greens. Stir-fry until wilted then remove to bowl with beets. Add salad greens and mint (just the leaves). Squeeze juice from lemon overtop and drizzle with remaining ¼ cup oil. Toss to evenly coat, then spread out on a platter. Sprinkle with sunflower seeds and nuts. Serves 6

Chicken & the Sea Skewers Consider this one a lighter and odder version of surf and turf. Plumpy chicken and dangerously salty and flavourful anchovies do battle for land vs. sea supremacy. 6 to 8 skinless boneless chicken thighs or 2 breasts, cut into chunky pieces 3 Tbsp olive oil 1 tsp white or red wine vinegar Sea salt & ground black pepper 1 red onion, cut into chunks 50-g can anchovy fillets, about 10 fillets, rinsed

2 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 small chili pepper, sliced into rings or pinches of dried chili flakes 1/3 cup good-quality olive oil ½ lemon, juiced Handful chopped fresh cilantro or parsley

For the kebabs, place chicken in a bowl. Drizzle with oil and vinegar and generously season with salt and pepper. Alternately thread chicken and onion onto 6 skewers. Let stand while preparing sauce. For the sauce, coarsely chop anchovies, then place in a small saucepan. Add garlic and pepper rings, then cover with 1/3-cup good-quality oil. Heat over low heat, stirring often until anchovies have broken down and garlic is fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lemon and cilantro. Taste and add more chili if you like a kick. When ready to cook, preheat barbecue to medium-high. Add chicken skewers. Turn often, until lightly charred and chicken is cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Place on a platter and pour anchovy sauce overtop. Note: you will want bread for soaking up all the saucy juiciness! Serves 6

DIY Yogurt Pops It’s kind of like a dessert smoothie meets a saucy Popsicle. The idea is to get really messy here and revel in it. Explore making your own yogurt or just chill out and buy it. This makes lots of sauce – so freeze leftovers. You’ll be happy when you find it again down the road when fresh berries are long gone! Yogurt: 4 cups whole milk, preferably organic 3 Tbsp yogurt Raspberries (optional)

Sauce: 2 cups raspberries 2 cups chopped strawberries 1/3 to 1/2 cup sugar ½ lemon: 1 tsp grated peel and all the juice Milk (optional)

For the yogurt, start 2 days before you want to make the pops. In a saucepan, heat milk over medium-low, gently stirring often, until it reaches 185 to 190F. Remove from heat and let cool 115F. Gently stir in yogurt. Pour into a large wide-mouthed Mason jar and seal with lid. Wrap jar with tinfoil, then place in a warm spot (I use the oven with just the light on or set on top of the fridge). Let stand overnight (at least 12 hours). Taste; if you like it thicker let stand for another 5 hours, then refrigerate. At this point, if you like really thick Greek-style yogurt, then strain through cheesecloth (place over a bowl to catch the drips) for a few hours. For the pops, spoon yogurt into ice cube trays or fancy ice molds. Gently tap filled tray on counter to remove any air bubbles. Plop 1 or 2 raspberries in each, if you wish. Freeze until firm, 4 hours or overnight. For the sauce, place raspberries, strawberries and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring often, then remove from heat. Puree mixture in a blender. For a better consistency, strain ½ to ¾ of berry mixture, then stir with unstrained sauce. Some seeds make it look better! Stir in lemon peel and juice. Refrigerate until cool. To serve, pop yogurt cubes out of molds and place in bowls or paper cups. Drizzle with sauce. Pour a few spoonfuls of milk overtop – sounds weird, but tastes fantastic!


EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:07 AM Page 35

liquid assets: what to drink now —by Larry Arnold Bouillot Cremant de Bourgogne “Perle d’Aurore” Rose Brut France $27.00-29.00 This is absolutely the best tasting Cremant Rose I have tasted this century! It is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay Noir. Made following the traditional “methode champenoise,” the colour comes from the addition of Pinot Noir to the wine when the lees are disgorged. Very rich and fruity with a soft creamy texture and an off-dry finish! Nicely balanced with bright fruit and crisp acidity. Hidalgo La Gitana Manzanilla Sherry Spain $15.00-17.00/375ml Bodegas Hidalgo is the last remaining family business to produce and export its own unblended, single-solera Sherry. La Gitana (the gypsy) Manzanilla is Hidalgo’s flagship wine, the product of a solera established in the early 19th century. Manzanilla finos are produced in the seaside village Sanlucar de Barrameda. They are delicate with a faintly salty tang and are always bone dry. Manzanilla is most often drunk as a dry, chilled aperitif with a little bowl of green olives and salted almonds but give it a try with fried fish or shellfish. Joseph Drouhin Reserve de Vaudon Chablis 2010 France $29.00-32.00 Clean ripe fruit with a delicate aroma that gets you thinking. Apple, yes, citrus, that too and some flinty mineral notes that carry on through the palate and persist through the finish. Mouth-filling but no heaviness or fat. Very dry with lovely balance. Baillie-Grohman Gewurztraminer 2012 Okanagan $19.00-20.00 This is one big Gewurztraminer! Lovely, with a generous, expressive bouquet of rose petals, ginger and exotic spices. Very opulent with a rich unctuous texture and exotic fruit flavours. Given the opulence of this wine, you will not be surprised by the length of the finish but then maybe you will! Luscious and ethereal at the same time. Orofino Riesling 2011 Similkameen $20.00-22.00 The Okanagan is Riesling country, so is the Similkameen, it just took the good folks in the Okanagan a little longer to figure that out. Orofino, a six-acre property just outside the city limits of Cawston, BC seems to have found the magic with riesling. This is classic. Still a youngster, but notice the hint of lime, mango, and that sleek mineral finish. Gorgeous, complex fruit with racy acidity and a slightly off-dry finish. It’s a knockout. Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling Eden Valley 2011 Australia $27.00-29.00 Deliciously aromatic with peach, lime and a hint of diesel on the nose, full bodied with fresh citrus and peach flavours and a slash of mouth-watering acidity that promises good things down the road. Good Aussie Riesling is a class unto itself. Clos du Soleil Fume Blanc 2012 Similkameen $23.00-25.00 A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon that has definitely seen the inside of a barrel. Very rich with ripe mango, gooseberry and passionfruit aromas that expand through the palate picking up citrus and minerals notes along the way. Nicely balanced with good length and a clean fresh finish. Chateau Des Charmes Aligote 2010 Ontario $17.00-18.00 Aligote is a winter hearty varietal most commonly found in Burgundy and not so commonly found in Ontario. This Aligote is delicious from start to finish. It is light, fresh and vibrant with enticing citrus, pear and apple flavours. Everything is here in perfect harmony. Go figure, Ontario.

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Baillie-Grohman Blanc De Noir 2012 Okanagan $19.00-20.00 Lets just simplify matters and call this Blanc De Noir a rose because that is what it is. A rose is a rose is a rose! Gorgeous salmon colour with a delicate cherry, floral nose. It is quite dry, absolutely fresh and totally delicious with thirst quenching fruit flavours that coat the palate and linger through the finish. Prieure Saint-Hippolyte Rose 2012 France $19.00-21.00 This lovely salmon hued rose from the heart of the Languedoc is a joy to drink. The wine is dry and refreshing with ripe strawberry and raspberry flavours. Crisp and clean with a subtle minerality. Falernia Carmenare Reserva 2010 Chile $18.00-20.00 Vina Falnernia is located about 470 km north of Santiago, in the extreme north of Chile. Made with partially dried grapes this dark rich red is ripe and briary with an explosive aroma thick with the scent of blackberries, herbs and spice. Full-bodied and robustly flavoured with gobs of ripe juicy fruit admirably balanced with soft, ripe tannins. It is rich, seductive and delicious. Hillside Estate Syrah 2008 Naramata $24.00-27.00 It has a deep black, purplish colour and a lovely intense nose of blackberries, black pepper, vanilla and violets. A big wine with flavours to match and a mouth-filling texture. Very polished and supple.

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Photo by Gary Hynes

vincabulary - By Treve Ring

{Pee-noh GREE / Pee-noh GREE-Jhee-oh}

If any grape has the right to an identity crisis, it’s Pinot Gris. This white wine grape is actually a mutation clone of the black Pinot Noir grape. The grape’s skin colour varies wildly, sometimes even within the same bunch. Gris, French for grey, references the typical greyish-blue fruit, though the grape can also range from a tanned pink to plummy black and even very pale rose. The wines produced from Pinot Gris also vary in hue, from palest yellow to deep golden to blushing salmon, and it is one of the more popular grapes for the currently trending orange wine. Rainbow of disguises aside, Pinot Gris also goes by its Italian clone, Pinot Grigio. In sweepingly broad strokes, wines made in the fresh, crisp and unoaked style of Veneto adopt Grigio, while those in a richer, riper version go by Gris, though of course these are generalizations and lines are blurred. Unfortunately, Italian Pinot Grigio has become too popular for its own good, spawning oceans of early-harvested bland, tart and inexpensive white wine capitalizing on the Pinot Grigio wave. The grape itself, when yields are reasonably low and it reaches full maturity, yields wines with higher alcohol, perfumed aromatics and lower acidity. The fuller body tends to be a bit oily, with rich melon, pear and tropical fruit. The grape’s ancestral home is thought to be in Burgundy, though the mutation from Pinot Noir was also happening in southwest Germany around the same time in the late 13th century. Legend has it that the grape was reportedly a favourite of Emperor Charles IV, who brought cuttings to Hungary for Cistercian monks to cultivate in 1375, which is why the grape there is known as Szürkebarát, meaning "grey monk." Pinot Gris has many other aliases around Europe, principally Fromenteau, Grauburgunder, Malvoisie, Pinot Beurot and Ruländer.

ZESTY

HONEYED

CRISP

OILY

RICH

HERBAL

James Oatley

Di Lenardo Vineyards

Haywire Winery

Pfaffenheim

Neudorf Vineyards

A to Z Wineworks

TIC TOK Pinot Grigio 2010

Pinot Grigio Unoaked 2011

Pinot Gris 2011

Moutere Pinot Gris 2011

Pinot Gris 2011

ORIGIN: Adelaide Hills, Australia

ORIGIN: Friuli-Venezia Giulia IGT, Italy

Switchback Vineyard Pinot Gris 2011, ‘Raised in Concrete’

ORIGIN: Alsace AC, France

ORIGIN: Nelson, South Island, New Zealand

ORIGIN: Newberg, Willamette Valley, Oregon

THE WALLET: $17-20 ALCOHOL: 12.2% abv TASTE: A site in the cooler Adelaide Hills brings the acidity in this zippy, medium bodied white, with light and tight spice, pear skin, meadow herbs and a light honey apple finish. Fresh, zesty and perfect for food.

THE WALLET: $18-21 ALCOHOL: 12.5% abv TASTE: Perfect example of the blurring of Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio. No banal Italian Grigio here! Instead concentrated quince, pear, peach and creamed wildflower honey. Lees contact adds welcome weight, and juicy acidity throughout adds appeal.

THE WALLET: *$34-37 ALCOHOL: 14.5% abv TASTE: Pinot Gris is enjoying a spike of popularity in New Zealand, and complex, mineral-driven styles like this show why. Spicy gooseberry, red apple and thyme lead into a ripe and richer style, with ample honey blossom, eraser, fragrant vanilla, meadow grass and textured pear. Lengthy finish.

THE WALLET: *$25-29 ALCOHOL: 13% abv TASTE: Oregon’s other famous Pinot grape: Potent anise and herbal notes add intrigue to the melon, pear and yellow apple fruit. Medium bodied, with a juicy, lingering finish of bitter grapefruit and medicinally-tinged Asian pear.

ORIGIN: Summerland, Okanagan Valley, BC VQA THE WALLET: *$23-26 ALCOHOL: 13.4% abv TASTE: Fitting from BC’s fruit basket: cool fermentation in a concrete egg (look it up!) unites a fierce green apple attack with a round and ripe Anjou pear body. Lean and linear in youth, with lime pulp, mild white honey and a stony finish.

THE WALLET: $19-22 ALCOHOL: 13.5% abv TASTE: This consistent Alsatian go-to is a classic for a reason. Pleasantly off-dry, with lightly smoked citrus, cool stone, overripe pear and peach fuzz. Ripe and plump, with just enough acid oomph to carry the weighted flavours.

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may be in limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.

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EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

Rebecca Wellman

Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio


EAT Magazine July_Aug 2013_Victoria_48_Layout 1 7/1/13 11:07 AM Page 37

The Bold and Beautiful New Wave of Island Wineries Island Wineries of British Columbia co-author Adem Tepedelen looks at the growing island wine scene.

Rebecca Wellman

It may be a little overstated to call it a revolution, but a lot has happened in the Vancouver and Gulf Island wine scene in the two years since the publication of the Island Wineries of British Columbia Owner Tim Turyk and his son, Chris, at Unsworth Vineyards book in spring 2011. When our crew of EAT writers—led by editor Gary Hynes—embarked on the project in late 2009, the old-guard wineries (Vigneti Zanatta, Alderlea, Blue Grouse, et al) largely responsible for starting the island wine industry in the 1980s were the heart of the story. There were a smattering of notable newcomers, as well (Rocky Creek, Averill Creek, Beaumont among others), but no one could have foreseen the growth and transformation that transpired in the next two years. Not only did a whole spate of new wineries very rapidly plant vineyards and open tasting rooms, they brought a new aesthetic to the scene. In the past, visiting an island winery could sometimes be a, well, “rustic” experience. Not so in 2013, thanks largely to a fresh infusion of wineries that has helped transform our burgeoning wine scene in a dramatic way. This was largely the impetus for revising and updating the Island Wineries of British Columbia book and re-issuing it in April. We added, among other things, seven new winery profiles, and the latest edition is 24-pages bigger than the first. Four of the new wineries we profiled in the new edition—Enrico, Unsworth, de Vine and Symphony—didn’t exist (or were perhaps in the very earliest stages of development) when we wrote the first edition, which is perhaps the most dramatic indication of the speed of the change transpiring. Though each of these four new wineries has its own distinctive style and story (as detailed in the book), there are common threads running through them. Perhaps the most compelling one is that they all built tasting rooms and vineyards designed to actively encourage (and impress) visitors. Though this trend isn’t exclusive to these four wineries, it’s a clear indication that the island wine industry is maturing rapidly. Symphony Vineyard in Saanichton may be the smallest of the four—their annual production numbers in the hundreds of cases, rather than thousands—but owners Lamont Brooks and Pat George have a sunny high-ceilinged tasting room to welcome customers and a lovely patio that looks out over their modest vineyard. They sell a wonderful array of local picnic items to encourage visitors to have a sip, have a bite and stay awhile. Their nicely priced and well-made wines—their Gewürztraminer is one of the best you’ll find in BC—make that an easy proposition. Not far from Symphony, de Vine Vineyards can easily claim to have one of the best views of any island winery from its patio. Perched above West Saanich Rd., it offers amazing vistas of Haro Strait and San Juan Island. The tasting room is the epitome of elegant/rustic Pacific Northwest chic, laden with gorgeous locally sourced wood and featuring hand-blown glass art created by the owners’ John and Cathy Windsor’s son Chris. This is a facility certainly equal to anything in the Okanagan, though perhaps scaled a bit smaller to suit its island environment. Their estate vineyards are still maturing (watch for BC’s first Gruner Veltliner, hopefully soon!), so they rely on both Saanich- and Okanagan-grown grapes for now. Rather than starting small and growing slowly, Enrico Winery in the Mill Bay area of the Cowichan Valley made a bold statement by planting 15 acres of Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Ortega, Cabernet Libre and Cabernet Foch vines (a sizable amount by island

standards) and building a well-appointed tasting room amidst the vines. When they opened their tasting room doors two summers ago, their facility felt comfortable and inviting. Owners Harry Smith and his wife Maru Harper wanted it to be a destination that attracts not only tour buses, but locals who can stop in for a glass of estate grown wine or pick up a bottle or case (or two) to go. Unsworth, not far from Enrico in the Mill Bay area, had the foresight to lure chef Brad Boisvert and his Amusé Bistro from its original location in nearby Shawnigan Lake to a beautiful heritage farmhouse on their 32-acre property. So, from their opening two years ago, they’ve not only had a gorgeous, well-appointed tasting room with a wonderful pond-side patio, they’ve had a top-flight restaurant on-site as well. The young vineyard is currently six acres (and expanding) of Cabernet Libre, Petit Milo, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Marechal Foch. Owners Tim and Colleen Furyk have deep roots in this area and the winery bears Tom’s mother’s maiden name. The contrast between these four new wineries and most of the more than two dozen that proceeded them is notable. The island have been established as a viable place to grow grapes and make wine, and rather than dabbling a toe in the water to gauge the interest or marketability of our unique local product, the latest wave of wineries dove right in. This bodes well for all involved. The higher the bar is raised in terms of the experience for wine drinkers and wine tourists alike, the more opportunity there is for growth. This is an exciting time for Vancouver Island and Gulf Island wines. Island Wineries of British Columbia is published by Touchwood Editions. Pick-up a copy at Chapters, Bolen Books, local wineries and online at www.Amazon.ca

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Red Lite Lighter reds served slightly chilled are a barbecueworthy choice for summer. When the mercury rises, you may find your cravings for bold, brazen Shiraz and full-bodied Cabs curbed. These wines satisfied a few months ago, but now they feel heavy and tiring. Have your tastes suddenly changed? Don’t worry, it’s probably temporary. Call it summer fever. Symptoms include reaching for beer, chilled cocktails or white wine; whatever cools you down. The arrival of warm days doesn’t mean you have to turn your back on red altogether. Chilled reds are especially thirst-quenching as the weather heats up. It’s all about finding which ones will do the trick. Choosing a light to medium-bodied red is a start. And the temperature you serve it at will go a long way to helping your cause. Many light reds benefit from being served slightly cooler than you might normally drink reds. With low tannin and high acid, Pinot Noir is the classic “light red.” From its homeland in Burgundy where the expression is earthy and restrained, to New World regions of Oregon, California, New Zealand, Chile and B.C. (which all have varying degrees of charming fruit), the spectrum of flavours varies. For us, any excuse to drink this gorgeously scented, elegant variety will do. We drink it all year round, but it’s a go-to in the summer when our diet changes. Our tendency to go “light” doesn’t just apply to wine and clothing; it goes for food as well. We shift away from slow-cooked meat stews and turn to salads and grilled delicacies. Pork, chicken, salmon or tuna? Pinot Noir gets along with them all, making it a great bridge when you’re throwing multiple items on the barbecue. One of our recent coup de coeurs was duck barbecued on the spit. It passed with flying colours alongside Pinots from a variety of provenances. Pinot is the obvious light red choice but far from the only option. The wine region of Burgundy blesses us with another lovely lightweight: Beaujolais. Have no fear! You might be familiar with the cheap and cheerful Beaujolais-Nouveau, but it’s not all there is to Beaujolais. Gamay, the grape responsible for the wines of this region, can also produce some intriguing and complex reds. Look out for Beaujolais—Villages or Cru Beaujolais for a step up. The best and most commonly seen Crus on the shelves include Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon. The finest of these offer pure bright raspberry and strawberry flavours with subtle mineral notes. Outside of France, Gamay is not as widely planted as Pinot Noir. However, you can find occasional examples. From our local B.C. vineyards, Blue Mountain produces a delicious version. Like Pinot, Gamay is extremely versatile and can accompany a range of dishes, including light meats and fuller-flavoured fish. Need a little more grip in your reds? Look to the Loire Valley regions of Chinon and Bourgueil. Cabernet Franc is the star behind these two labels. While the tannins can be firm, earthy mineral notes and bright acidity make these reds contenders for the light category. These are definitely food wines, and their earthy character might be too much on their own for the uninitiated. Just make sure you try them with something to eat. Slightly chilled, they are brilliant with steak tartare or beef burgers. Chinon and Bourgueil should be on your “must-discover” wine list if you are not acquainted with either. While we tend to associate light red with light food, the Italians have mastered the art of pairing richer fare with lighter acidic reds. Spaghetti Bolognese with Lambrusco is the quintessential example. When vinified as a red sparkler, Lambrusco’s role is to cut through the richness of the dish. Its sour cherry and slightly bitter notes refresh between bites and help digest the meal. Skeptical? Try it one summer evening when you are in need of a more substantial dinner. The Casolari is well priced and a favourite when paired with cured meat and picnic sandwiches. For a more serious example of Lambrusco, seek out the Rinaldini. Another classic Italian pick is Valpolicella from the northeastern region of Veneto. Indigenous grape Corvina is the most important player. Like many other Italian reds, it too has a slightly pleasant bitter finish, making it oh-so food friendly. Horse


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carpaccio might be a specialty of the region, but if that makes you squeamish (or if you can’t find horse meat!) settle for beef carpaccio. Valpolicella’s bright acidity as well as fresh notes of cherries and herbs will quench your thirst and leave you wanting more. So what do we mean exactly when we saying lightly chilled? Whites are meant to be cold, and reds served at room temperature, right? Certainly, but these days our houses are kept pretty warm. Room temperature used to sit at 18°C, chilly by today’s standards. This is actually the ideal temperature to enjoy fuller-bodied reds. When it comes to lighter reds with lower tannin, they taste delicious when served even cooler (13-15°C). Chilling lighter bodied reds is a habit that should be adopted throughout the year. But don’t get too caught up in having the wine reach an exact temperature, though. Very few of us actually carry a wine thermometer around. When in doubt stick the bottle in the fridge for half an hour or so or throw it on ice for fifteen minutes. If it’s too cold for your tastes, it will warm up soon enough. More than likely you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how refreshing and quaffable the wine becomes. This summer, be light, adventurous and frivolous. It’s the perfect time to get acquainted with chilled lighter reds. Plenty of options exist and you might even end up discovering something new that you will continue enjoying the rest of the year.

Tasting Notes 2009 Santo Cristo, Garnacha, Campo de Borja DO, Spain $12-14 (SKU# 639385) A juicy little Garnacha (aka Grenache) chock-a-block with raspberry and Rainier cherry flavours with soft smooth tannin. Lively, fruity and a great match for grilled pork chops. Casolari, ‘Bollino d’Oro,’ Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, Frizzante, Italy $15-17 (SKU #276105) This simple, sparkling red offers appetizing sour cherry and balsamic notes. At 11 percent, the low alcohol is an added bonus. Perfect with a plate of charcuterie. Or spaghetti Bolognese if you dare. 2009 Domaine du Grand Bréviande, Chinon AOC France $22-25* Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley will quench your thirst while satisfying your craving for red. Delicious and savoury flavours of pure raspberry and pencil shavings. Begging for a rotisserie chicken.

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2010 Domaine des Nugues, Fleurie AOC, France $27-30 (SKU# 653543) A heady fragrance of cherry blossoms and fresh red summer berries. Bright and crunchy, this is a Beaujolais to take “seriously,” Drink it for lunch with whatever leftovers make it into your sandwich. 2011 Gatto Pierfrancesco, ‘Caresana’ Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, Italy, $30-34 (SKU# 266668) Discover the obscure Ruchè grape. Scents of roses, violets, peach blossoms and cracked black pepper with plums and peaches on the palate. Pretty yet intense. Serve with a selection of patés and cheeses. 2012 Domaine de la Mordorée, ‘La Dame Rousse’ Tavel AOC, France $37-41* OK, we’re cheating a bit here. Technically this is a rosé. However, being from the Tavel region it’s particularly robust and concentrated. A perennial favourite, especially with salad Niçoise. 2009 Schug, Pinot Noir, Carneros, California $37-41 (SKU# 79624) A friendly Pinot exuding red cherries, strawberries and vanilla. Bright fruit and slightly earthy on the palate with light soft tannin. Spit-roasted duck perhaps? 2010 CedarCreek, Platinum ‘Home Block’ Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley BC VQA $ 40-45* Seductive truffly nose revealing lovely cherry and raspberry underneath. Silky and elegant. Serve with wild salmon when looking to impress out-of-town guests. DRINKING Guide: How to use our purchasing information. *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may be in limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.

3 COURSE DINNER $29.95 plus taxes www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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What to drink with that!

DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours. T H I S

M O N T H ’ S

E X P E R T S

Summer Party Wood-roasted suckling pig, with salad of charred fava beans (lemon, garlic & tarragon) and mac & cheese.

Jay Drysdale (JD) Sommelier, soon to be farmer Jay has spent the last 10 years involved with the BC wine industry. After completing his International Sommelier Guild training in 2003 he has run restaurants, wine stores and wineries until he caught the winemaking bug about 4 years ago. Quietly making a barrel here and a barrel there led him to finish the Enology and Viticulture program at Washington State University. About to release his second vintage of Bella Sparkling Wines, he is starting to capture his expression of

JD. This is pure comfort food requiring comfort wine. If the heat of the day has quietly disappeared then a fuller red is in order. All those wonderful fats and flavours would have me looking for an older Rhone red. Many 2003's are drinking quite nicely right now with just enough tannins to marry with the richness of the pork and pasta while the aged flavours would play well with the smoke and freshness from the charred fava bean salad. If this summer party was still embracing the heat of the late afternoon sun I would reach for a lighter and local BC rosé - one with traditional red wine flavours wrapped in a fresh, dry, and slightly chilled version.

the local wine scene in a bottle. You will find him laying roots in Naramata. Owen Knowlton (OK) Restaurant Director + Wine Director, West Restaurant + Bar Owen Knowlton moved from his native Ontario to Lake Louise, Alberta to follow his love of skiing; after joining the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise he quickly became enamored with the hospitality industry and his enthusiasm for wine began to grow. After forging a path through Australian bars, restaurants and wine regions, he landed at Banff’s renowned Rimrock Resort Hotel, where as Maitre’d & Sommelier, he was responsible for developing the highly acclaimed wine collection. Upon arrival in Vancouver, he joined the long established Le

OK. Suckling pig is perfect for special summer occasions so you need to pair it with an equally special wine. A wine pairing that will impress is a bottle of Condrieu. Condrieu is an AOC of the Northern Rhone Valley made from Viognier and is one of the finest white wines of the world. It has a delicate nose of peach and fresh flowers followed by a rich full palate that balances the sweetness of the sucking pig. There will be plenty of refreshing acidity to match the fava bean salad and to cut through creamy mac & cheese. DVM. Whenever I see suckling pig I think of my time in Portugal, specifically in the region of Bairrada, where it is known as Leitão. Immediately the local red wine variety, Baga, springs to mind. I would lean toward a sparkling or a rosé version of this tannic variety myself, but finding Baga is not terribly easy on the west coast (outside of our old friend, Mateus) so another option would be a fruity sparkling Lambrusco from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna. The Lambrusco’s fruitiness and whisper of sweetness on the palate will go head to head with the sweetness of the suckling pig while highlighting the smokiness of the wood-roasting. The bubbles will help cleanse the palate of the fattiness in the young meat. Ditto for the mac & cheese (which I personally prefer made with smoked cheese), the fruitiness would accent the cheese and the frizzante style helps scrape that fat off your palate and prepare you for the next bite.

Crocodile, as Maitre’d, and now has continued to cement his wine authority at West. As Wine Director, Knowlton nurtures and grows the acclaimed selection adding carefully to the five hundred label list and assisting guests in discovering new food and wine combinations. He was Sommelier of the Year at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, 2011 Daenna Van Mulligen (DVM) WineDiva Daenna Van Mulligen is a Vancouver based wine writer and accredited sommelier who is widely recognized via her alter ego WineDiva. Launched in February 2004, WineDiva.ca is now in its tenth year of publishing unpretentious and approachable

wine

reviews

while

the

more

Daenna has traveled to every major winemaking region in the world and is an international wine judge. She is a regular contributor to TASTE, Vines and now Flavours. She can also be heard in BC and Alberta each week on Terry David

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Olive oil ice cream with Meyer lemon bar & meringue filled with pistachio cream JD. My first choice would be to reach for a locally made eau de vie, probably an aged Italian plum. The ever-so-slight alcohol you would feel would be quickly extinguished by the elegant sugar and cream, while none of the flavours would overpower each other. Otherwise I would look for an older, not too sweet, Vin Santo from Italy. With just enough sweetness in the wine, the focus would stay on the savoury elements of this desert like the olive oil and nuts and still stand up to the richness from the creams. OK. A delicious wine pairing that may be off the beaten path is a Tokaji Aszu 5 puttonyos. This beautiful dessert wine from Hungary is full with honey and nut flavors to complement the pistachio and it has enough sweetness to meet and beat the Meyer lemon bar.

serious

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Dessert

DVM. This dish sounds divine and immediately transports me to the Mediterranean. Although a Riesling icewine will do in a pinch I’d go one step further and grab a decadent Sauternes from Bordeaux. Made from a combination of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, these wines are made from raisined grapes and offer a sweetness and complexity rarely seen in other dessert wines. The citrus and herbal character will frolic with the creamy olive oil and Meyer lemon while the sweet honeyed apricot and vague nutty flavours will match the meringue and pistachio cream for sweetness. Luckily the acidity in these wines helps balance their sweet temperament and won’t have you headed for complete sugar shock with the pairing.


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The Buzz

WHO’S DOING WHAT IN VICTORIA, VANCOUVER, THE OKANAGAN, TOFINO, THE COWICHAN & NANAIMO

VICTORIA: Well, Victoria, your time has come. If you have been wondering why the gourmet doughnut craze was taking so long to get here, you weren’t alone. But now, without a doubt, it has arrived. Not one, not two, but three new doughnut businesses popped up in the capital this spring. Yonni’s Doughnuts, sharing the kitchen at Discovery Coffee on Menzies in James Bay, launched in March and have been acquiring more fans by the day with flavours such as their lemon meringue, maple apple fritters, honey crullers and Earl Grey creams. Yonni’s are available daily on site, and also at the two other Discovery locations on weekends. (twitter.com/YonnisDoughnuts) Also in James Bay, is the pop-up espresso bar outside the Superior, known as Mortiscycle Donuts serving up an eclectic variety, including the Mortis; with banana cream and a chocolate glaze, the Vespa; a coconut and chocolate confection and the Hell’s Angel; a strawberry glaze. 2% Jazz coffee is on hand to wash them down. Want to guarantee they’ll have what you’re craving? Donut orders can be placed 24 hours in advance. Mortiscycle donuts are also available at the 2% Jazz location at the Hudson. (thesuperior.ca) The Dough Boys launched in April, with a mission to “create a hand crafted doughnut that everyone can enjoy, using local ingredients”. And they do. With True Grain flour, Tree Island Yogurt, Denman Island Chocolate, eggs from Mitchell’s Farms and locally grown fruit, the boys are crafting beautiful doughnuts ranging from old fashioned-inspired triple chocolate to the innovative Phillips Root beer Caramel Brioche. You can find the Dough Boys at the Moss Street Market on Saturdays and at the Victoria Public Market at the Hudson Farmers’ Market on Wednesdays. (facebook.com/doughboysdonuts.vic) Speaking of the Victoria Public Market, it’s time for an update! As anyone who has ever undertaken any construction project knows, delays are to be expected. The June soft opening we mentioned in the last issue has been postponed until a major exhaust system is in place. In the meantime, the Wednesday Farmers’ Markets on the back carriageway behind the Hudson have been offering us a taste of what is to come, including market vendors such as Roast Carvery (known affectionately as El Guapo’s evil stepchild), Salt Spring Island Cheese and Island Spice Trade. If you want to keep an eye on the progress being made inside the building, be sure to follow the VPM on Facebook, where you can get peeks of Vij’s new venture, Sutra, or the space that will become the Victoria Pie Co.’s headquarters. (facebook.com/VictoriaPublicMarket) If you’re looking for a way to work off some of those doughnuts, or just want to try a different kind of bike tour, the Pedaler is a new bike tour company offering two enticing food and beverage related tours: Beans & Bites promises to reinforce the simple pleasures in life: a nice bike ride, great coffee, and delicious baked treats. The tour ends with a unique tea tasting. This tour is offered daily at 9.30 am or 1.30 pm. Hoppy Hour is not a pub crawl, but there will be samples of Victoria’s finest locally crafted beer available on the ride – this tour for beer lovers leaves daily at 1.30pm. (thepedaler.ca) Victoria’s tourist season is in full swing, which means busy sidewalks and even fewer parking spots, but there is at least one good reason to brave the crowds and head down to Wharf St. Sam Benedetto (Zambri’s, Sooke Harbour House) opened up The Guild in May – a British inspired gastro pub with a big heart and soul: “Like the actual meaning of the word “guild”, it represents a reclaiming of the idea that people who work together and share common values can create something stronger than what any one person can do alone.” My advice: run, don’t walk, to get some of their sticky toffee pudding. (twitter.com/GuildFreehouse)

THE “BIG CHEESE”.

170 UPPER BENCH ROAD SOUTH, PENTICTON T. 250 770 1733 WWW.UPPERBENCH.CA 42

EAT MAGAZINE JULY | AUGUST 2013

Across the street, in the former Sauce location, signs are up announcing the upcoming opening of India Bistro – this will be the second location for the popular Vancouver (Davie St.) restaurant. Around the corner on Fort St. work progresses on Sean Soole’s highly anticipated Little Jumbo. “Little Jumbo is the next evolution of cocktail and food culture in Victoria. Patrons will be enticed by the combination of cutting edge cocktails with a locally inspired international menu, professionally delivered in a relaxed West Coaststyled space.” We’re looking forward to it. (facebook.com/LittleJumboYYJ). Further up Fort, Patty and Hilary Abbott of Hilary’s Cheese sold their Victoria location to employee Lauren Van der Haegen. “With her passion for local ingredients and community, Lauren will continue to represent the Hilary’s Cheese name with pride, as an extended part of the Abbott Family,” said Hilary Abbott, co-founder of Hilary’s Cheese. (hilarycheese.com) Two last tidbits: noodle fans, rejoice! Vietnam House, which closed its downtown location last fall, has reopened on Quadra St. next to the Italian Bakery (formerly LaPiola), and soup fans - you can rejoice as well, The Hot and Cold Cafe opened their second location on Pandora next to Relish. —Rebecca Baugniet COWICHAN VALLEY: Getting back to the work week after a great summer weekend is always hard, but Bird’s Eye Cove Farm is helping to make Mondays a lot more palatable. Every Monday this summer the farm is firing up their wood burning pizza oven and hosting a picnic style “farm to table” pizza night, 58pm, rain or shine. The from scratch pizza menu changes weekly, featuring ingredients directly from the farm whenever possible. Enjoying a delicious wood fired pizza while watching the sun set over Bird’s Eye Cove is about as good as a Monday can get (www.birdseyecovefarm.com; 250- 748-6379). July is a great month for lavender lovers. Salt Spring Island’s Sacred Mountain Lavender Farm will be hosting their 11th annual Lavender Festival on July 14th, 10am-5pm. The festival will feature propagation and distillation demos, live latin music, flamenco dancing, and a lavender infused lunch at Sacred Mountain’s Lavender Café. The chocolate lavender cupcakes are highly recommended (www.saltspringlavender.ca; 250-653-2315). Then, on July 27th, Damali Lavender and Winery holds their annual Lavender Fest, 10am-4pm. Along with live music and a range of lavender related activities to entertain the whole family, the festival will feature a range of lavender food and drink. A plated lunch, baked goods, ice cream, wines, and lavender lemonade will all showcase the delicate flavor of Damali lavender (www.damali.ca; 250-743-4100). Some great food trucks are making appearances at the numerous farmer’s markets and music festivals around the Cowichan Valley this summer. Poutine connoisseurs should check out Apatate Poutinerie, a food truck that showcases traditional Quebecoise poutine and a range of eclectic west coast twists on the old favorite. Owner Conrad Davies offers vegan and gluten free options, as well as creative toppings such as vindaloo curry and roasted field mushrooms (www.facebook.com/apatate; 250-732-1409). Farm’s Gate Foods and Catering is another mobile eatery that you won’t want to miss- husband and wife team Steve Elskens and Christle Pope serve up a range of delicious eats in a “grid menu” that lets you create your own combinations of dishes like chorizo and potato fritters and roast asparagus with truffle oil and lemon (www.facebook.com/pages/Farms-Gate-Foods-Catering; 250-743-0639). Bicycles and wine might seem an unlikely pairing, but the annual Cowichan Valley Grape Escape MS Cont’d on the next page


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The Buzz Bike Tour proves it to be an excellent one. This year’s bike tour takes place July 6th- 7th, starting at Shawnigan Lake School. Participants will spend a fun filled two days cycling to a range of local wineries while supporting a great cause. The Saturday night features a dinner and dance back at the school, with dormitory accommodation available. Proceeds from the event fund research for a cure for Multiple Sclerosis, and provide services for those for those who suffer from this disease. For registration and further event details, visit the website, or contact the Duncan branch of the MS Society (www.cowichanvalleygrapeescape.com; 250-748-7010). —Lindsay Muir TOFINO: Summer in Tofino kicked off in a busy and food-filled way with Feast Tofino in May and the Tofino Food and Wine Festival in June. Now in full swing, it’s the time when thousands of visitors come from all over the world to the west coast to enjoy both the sights and the unique food and drink, which has become as much of an attraction as the wildlife and scenery! After hearing a number of positive reviews, I’m looking forward to trying Hank’s in Ucluelet. The partnership of Francois Pilon, formerly of the Wickaninnish Inn and Driftwood Bistro in Nanaimo and Clark Deustscher, formerly of Cyn at Night in Ucluelet, Hank’s is focused on a variety of local seafood and woodfired and smoked ethical meats. With a blackboard changing menu, the chefs are committed to having an abundance of seafood including crab, salmon, cod, side-stripe shrimp, tuna and oysters on hand, as well as Alberni Valley and Two Rivers meats such as pork, beef, elk, venison and wild boar. Local, farm-fresh produce will also be a menu staple. Craft beers on tap complete this downtown Ucluelet dining experience. Visit hanksucluelet.com or call 250-726-2225. Located in the Village Square Shops at 1576 Imperial Lane. At EAT press time, there was no confirmation about a restaurant on the dock space at The Shore building at 368 Main St., but developer Thomas Olsen did say the 6,500 sq/ft space, called Pier 1933 (the Shore sits on Tofino district lot 1933), is available for rent as an event venue. Unique in town in that it can accommodate up to 240 people, the space will host Brendan Morrison’s Saltwater Classic fishing derby in July. For more information visit www.theshoretofino.com. Tofino Brewing Company is now bottling its Tuff Session Ale and Hoppin’ Cretin Ale in 650ml bottles. The new four-packs are available at various locations in Tofino, Nanaimo, Courtney, Victoria and Vancouver. For a full listing, see www.tofinobrewingco.com. Chef Cameron Young, formerly of Middle Beach Lodge and Tacofino Cantina, has joined the team at the Spotted Bear Bistro starting this May. Cam is looking forward to his new open-kitchen post at this busy bistro that features upscale classic comfort food. www.spottedbearbistro.com 250-725-2215 The Tofino Food and Wine Festival featured many new events this year, such as the Cocktail Show at the Schooner Restaurant on Friday, June 7. This is the home of the Titan Caesar, which is made with a mini burger, onion rings, a chicken wing, shrimp, and much more; they clearly know their cocktails. Clearly bartender Shawn Ingalls and his team know their cocktails! Cont’d on the next page

OSPREY LANE AT CHESTERMAN BEACH, TOFINO: HERE’S TO REFINED WESTCOAST CUISINE. The Pointe Restaurant at the world renowned Wickaninnish Inn features farm-fresh, organic Vancouver Island ingredients and seafood from the very waters the restaurant overlooks. For more information about this extraordinary destination, visit us online.

tel 1.800.333.4604

www.wickinn.com/restaurant.html www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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The Buzz

Your Friendly Neighbourhood Butcher ... A Cut Above Quality meats, Poultry, Cheeses, Specialty Products & Condiments

2577 Cadboro Bay Road,VICTORIA

592-0823

1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca

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Tofino Sea Kayaking has also hosted a cooking class and Sunday brunch with Chef Bill Jones on June 9. His Deerholme Mushroom Book: From Foraging to Feasting is a journey into the fascinating world of mushrooms, which are found in abundance in the lush forests around Tofino and used extensively in local kitchens. —Jen Dart NANAIMO & UP ISLAND: As I write this edition of The Buzz, summer is just a promise away and I’m anticipating all the wonderful festivals and events to come. As you read this, you’ll be in the thick of summer soaking up the sun and checking out fun activities to while away the days. So when you head to the beach with your cooler be sure to take along some of Parkville’s own Edge Food Energy Bars. Restaurateur Mathew Traynor and professional baker Cloe Peake brainstormed one fine day and came up with these 100% organic bars that satisfy your body’s’ need to Fortify, Maintain, and Replenish through a day of playing in the ocean. Made with high protein ancient grains these bars stand out as unique and are made with the finest ingredients. www.theedgefoodenergy.com After the beach head to the Warf at Bastion Square, Nanaimo for a margarita filled siesta at Penny’s Palapa. Their floating deck under gently rustling straw umbrellas is a great place to people watch and give your sunburn a rest. Alternatively, take a short jaunt on the Pickle Boat to Protection Island and the Dingy Dock Pub. The ferry leaves 10 minutes after every hour and continues after the sun goes down. Most of us think of Mt Washington as a winter destination but they are hosting two great summer festivals this year: Tapped Beer Festival, July 12th featuring Cascadia Liquor store GM Jeff Lucas, showcasing a variety of brews followed by a pig roast dinner and Alpine Food & Wine Festival, August 9th-10th. Sample local wines followed by a winery tour and dinner. Tickets available at www.mountwashington.ca If you can’t get to Vancouver for the Greek Festival, make your way to Courtney instead where you will find an excellent alternative at Yiamas Greek Tavern, new sister store to Asteras of Nanaimo. The roast lamb is not to be missed! - fall off the bone tender and buttery - or try the greek style ribs covered in a fragrant oregano rub, cooked to perfection. The service is great and the chefs are flexible. avalanchebar.ca/yiamas Also of note in the Comox Valley, chef Ronald St. Pierre of Locals moved into their new digs into the Old House in May. The location has been spectacularly remodelled while retaining the best of the original brick and wood. Chef St Pierre added a gorgeous kitchen and lovely garden off of the deck making it a wonderful sunny day retreat. Sarah Walsh of Prontissima Pasta is bringing in kegs of award winning, beautifully green and spicy, organic olive oil from Basil Olive Oil to her shop. Be sure to try some and I know you will go home with a refillable bottle that will quickly empty! Finally, Scott DiGuistine and Merissa Myles of Tree Island Yogurt released their wonderfully thick greek style yogurt this spring and they’re trying out numerous delectable flavours available at the Valleys’ Farmers Market – try to choose just one if you can, I certainly can’t! www.localscomoxvalley.com, www.prontissimapasta.com, www.basiloliveoil.com, www.cultured-dairy.com —Kirsten Tyler VANCOUVER: Farewell, Little Nest. It sounds like the title of a Beatles song, but, unfortunately, it’s what families all over Vancouver will be saying when the immensely successful and popular familyfriendly eatery (www.littlenest.ca) closes its doors this month due to a grasping landlord. We wish owner Mary Macintyre all the best. In other sad news, Railtown’s Two Chefs and a Table (www.twochefsandatable.com) has closed after five years. Their Richmond location will remain open, as will Big Lou’s Butcher Shop (www.biglousbutchershop.com). Gastown’s Salt Tasting Room (www.salttastingroom) is opening a second location at 2585 West Broadway in Kitsilano. Methinks that Salt’s oh-so-popular charcuterie-and-cheese offerings might be enough to finally kill the bad location curse that downed the likes of Nosh, Mistral, and neighbours Lumière and DB Bistro. Kitsilano is getting lucky…Main Street’s 49th Parallel Coffee Roasters (www.49thparallelroasters.com), creators of the utterly fabulous Lucky’s Doughnuts (www.luckysdoughnuts.com), have opened a second location at 2198 West 4 Avenue, in the heart of Kitsilano. This location will also sport an in-house doughnuterie…get ready for PB&J and bacon-apple goodness all summer long. Chef Hamid Salimian (www.chefhamid.com), former EC at Diva at the Met, has been chosen as Captain of the 2016 Culinary Olympic Team for Canada. The team will be competing at the 2016 IKA Culinary Olympics in Erfurt, Germany. After a short stint at Lift, the wondrously-talented chef Jefferson Alvarez (former EC at Fraîche) seems to have happily settled in at the recently-opened boutique/tasting room Secret Location (www.secretlocation.ca) at 1 Water Street. Try the housemade charcuterie and burrata, as well as the ostrich carpaccio. David Gunawan, former EC at Wildebeest, is opening his own restaurant, Farmer’s Apprentice (www.farmersapprentice.ca), with a “vegetable-forward, sustainably-sourced” menu based on whatever producers will drop off on any given day. Located at 1529 West 6 Avenue in the South Granville neighbourhood, look for less than 30 seats and a dozen rotating dishes.

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The Buzz Peter Haupenthal, the original brewer at Dockside Brewery (www.docksidebrewing.com), is back on home turf after spending three years in Cambodia, opening that country’s first craft brewery, Kingdom Breweries. Haupenthal leads free weekly brewery tours on Thursdays at 4:30 p.m. Aprons for Gloves (www.apronsforgloves.com) is back for another round this summer, with contenders—both male and female—lining up to duke it out in support of the Eastside Boxing Club’s non-profit program for disadvantaged youth. The Vancouver-areafarmers’ markets are in full swing. For days/times at Trout Lake, Kitsilano, Main Street, the West End and Kerrisdale, visit www.eatlocal.org. Plus, don’t forget UBC Farm (www.ubcfarm.ubc.ca), Oak Street (www.oakstreetmarket.ca), River District (www.riverdistrict.ca), Granville Island (www.granvilleisland.com), and Lonsdale Quay and Ambleside (www.northshorefarmersmarkets.com). The Vancouver Food Cart Fest (www.foodcartfest.com) is back this summer as well, running every Sunday until September 22 from noon to six p.m. at their new location at 215 West 1 Avenue near the Olympic Village. Expect a rotating list of 20 different food carts each week, plus live music, DJs, children’s activities and community markets. Hart House Restaurant (www.harthouserestaurant.com) is once again throwing their summer garden party dinners, replete with live music and al fresco dining. This year’s themes include Nova Scotia lobster, Italy, Provence and Spain. —Anya Levykh OKANAGAN VALLEY: On almost every day of the week, the Okanagan celebrates farmers and food artisans with local Farmer’s markets. Check the BC Farmers Markets for a full listing in the Okanagan and across BC. bcfarmersmarket.org The Saturday Penticton Farmer’s Market, the largest in the Okanagan is held in the heart of downtown and closes five city blocks to pedestrian only traffic. A must visit. Pick-up an artisan baguette (for a guide to local artisan bakeries visit www.eatmagazine.ca/the-okanagans-artisan-bakeries/) add local Okanagan cheeses then head to a winery for a perfect picnic. Most wineries provide licensed picnic areas, chilled wine for purchase and complimentary wine glasses. On a gluten-free diet? Make sure to visit the just opened Sweet Christina’s Gluten-Free bakery at 180 Asher Road in Kelowna. Manteo Resort’s Smack Dab restaurant has opened their completely renovated waterfront patio with seating for over 100 guests.

Okanagan winery. Highlights include Cedar Creek Winery’s Telus Sunset concerts featuring Jim Cuddy, Michael Burgess and Sam Roberts. Mission Hill Winery summer concerts presents Chris Botti, Gipsy Kings, Leanne Rimes and Pink Martini. Tinhorn Creek Winery’s Summer Concert Series includes The Matinee, Five Alarm Funk and Blackie and the Rodeo Kings. Visit winery websites for dates, times and price. —Claire Sear

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Summerland’s Local Lounge & Grill excitedly welcomes their new executive chef, Lee Humphries formerly of C Restaurant in Vancouver. The fabulous Front Street in downtown Penticton, adds a charming new bakery, The White Apron Pastry Co. offering hand-made croissants, cinnamon buns and on weekends, sinful brioche. Designer cakes available by special order are made on-site and include wedding cakes. Newly opened Brodo Kitchen on Main Street is a must visit for their soup flights, daily sandwiches, and flatbreads. Outstanding value. Food-trucks reign in Oliver. The delightful Hammer’s House of Hog which has an Okanagan cult following for their southern BBQ pulled pork sandwiches complete with coleslaw and your choice of one of four homemade sauces. The Beach Bum Lunch Box opened by former Quebecers, serves up authentic Montreal smoked meat sandwiches as well as smoked meat nachos and pizzas. The newly opened hot pink Oso-Jus food truck in Osoyoos serves up organic juices & smoothies hand-made on site from the best of local ingredients. Their seriously gourmet hot dogs are a must eat. Mark your calendars and buy tickets early for the Okanagan’s sold-out special summer events. The summer kicks off with Diner en Blanc, the surprise pop-up white picnic imported from France being held on Thursday, July 4th at a secret location. To attend this event, sign up at Diner en Blanc Okanagan and hope to receive a coveted invitation. (dinerenblanc.info) Friday, July 12th, the newly formed Okanagan Falls Winery Association located within half an hour of both Osoyoos and Penticton holds their second annual Party in the Park directly on the shores of Skaha Lake. Enjoy live music, food and tastings from all twelve associate wineries. (ofwa.ca) Saturday, July 13th, join the Similkameen Wineries for their fourth annual Similkameen BBQ King/Queen event. Held at the beautiful Grist Mill in Keremeos, this has become one of the highlight food and wine events of the summer. (similkameenwine.com) The Okanagan Summer Wine Festival takes place in Vernon at Silver Star Mountain Ski resort the weekend of August 9th. Enjoy magnificent views, alpine meadow hikes and the new signature “Mile High” Tasting event held on Sat. Aug. 10th. Stroll thru the mountain village tasting wines from 25 wineries accompanied with food stations and live jazz. (skisilverstar.com) Finally on Sunday, August 18th the always sold out Feast of Fields is this year being held at Little Church Organics Farm in Kelowna. (farmfolkcityfolk.ca) Love live music? Enjoy a glass of wine and a summer concert at an

HAUTE CUISINE 1210 BROAD ST., VICTORIA, BC 250.388.9906

www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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– compiled by Rebecca Baugniet

What the Pros Know For this issue, we asked Victoria-based food writers and photographers to tell us what local ingredient they are reaching for most often these days, and in what ways they use them. Eric Akis, Victoria Times Colonist Food Writer, www.everyonecancook.com I consume a number of local foods, but one favourite is the B.C. albacore tuna from St. Jean's Cannery, Nanaimo (stjeans.com). They use the best tuna and hand pack and cook it in the can with a hint of sea salt. That process varies greatly from imported tuna, where the fish is pre-cooked, then put in the can, liquid (often water) is added, and then the fish is cooked again, robbing it of flavour and nutrients. St. Jean's tuna is more expensive, but it's worth it and once you try it in a salad, sandwich, crostini or other creation you'll be hooked.

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Our service can best be described as “Knowledgeable, yet not pretentious… …approachable, with a hint of sass!”

Peter Bagi, Photographer and Designer, www.peterbagi.com The ingredient that gets me the most excited during the early days of spring is mint which I get fresh my Mom's garden. It's the one ingredient that embodies everything I think of when it comes to spring: fresh, vibrant & green! I use mint to liven up a spring vignole, whip it up with fresh ricotta for crostinis, chopped with citrus zest and garlic for roast chicken & crushed in a tall icy mojito. Maryanne Carmack, Freelance food photographer and GM of the Victoria Downtown Farmers' Market at the Hudson www.maryannecarmack.com Sun Trio Farm Salad Mix - I am always fully stocked with bags of this addictive, delicious, healthy and local salad mix! What also makes these greens incredible is that they are picked fresh daily (they stay fresh in the fridge for long periods) and they are available all year round! I use the greens to make salads, throw in soups and warm side dishes. Sun Trio Farm has a farm gate in Saanichton and they also sell their tasty greens at the Victoria Downtown Farmers' Market at the Hudson every Wednesday from 11-3. Cinda Chavich, Food and Travel Journalist and Photographer, www.tastereport.com As a newcomer to Victoria, I’m still having fun discovering all of the many locallymade and produced Island foods, from wild morel mushrooms and spot prawns to Hilary’s artisan cheeses. But a staple here are the fine breads from Fol Epi – we buy the baguettes direct from the bakery (or the Village Butcher) to slather with The Whole Beast’s creamy chicken liver pate. They’re also perfect for impromptu sandwich suppers filled with grilled vegetables, local smoked tuna, or slathered with mayo with crispy bacon and sweet Sun Wing tomatoes. Don Genova, Freelance Food Journalist, www.dongenova.com My current fave is Chipotle lime salt from Organic Fair. I usually buy it from them at their farm gate shop in Cobble Hill, but they are selling their products now at a growing list of Island retailers. I use it on mandolin-cut potato chips as soon as they come out of the hot oil. And popcorn…and almost anything else I can think of! Not produced locally, but bottled locally, is the blood orange-infused olive oil from Olive the Senses in the Hudson Building in Victoria. This oil is not overpowered by the citrus infusion and is made by crushing the oranges and olives together at the time of harvest. Excellent for salad dressings or drizzled over raw albacore tuna or salmon in the Italian version of sushi, crudo. Elizabeth Nyland, Guilty Kitchen Food Blogger and EAT photographer, www.guiltykitchen.com Local ethically raised, grass fed/pastured meats. In a city the size of Victoria, with as much pasture and farmland available, I am surprised how hard it is to find sources for this kind of meat without having to buy the whole animal. One of the only places in town that offers all their meats at this high standard is The Village Butcher in Oak Bay. I commend them on sourcing all the different animals and offering them in one place. It's my go to meat store and I live in Sidney! Being a follower of the Paleo diet, it is extremely important to me to only eat pastured animals.

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Michael Tourigny, Photographer, www.michaeltourigny.com My locally produced ingredient of choice are eggs from Kildonan Farms. I use them wherever an egg is required, but my favourite recipe is something I call “Second Hand Eggs”. As soon as I have enjoyed the last of the pickled beets from David Mincey, I boil 6 large Kildonan eggs for 11-12 minutes. After an immediate rinse in cold water, I peel and place the eggs in the beet-less jar, add rings of sliced onion, and place in the fridge. After a day or two they are ready. Kildonan eggs are the freshest tasting available and have brilliant dark yellow yolks. I pick them up at Rootcellar. The red coloured eggs freak most people out, so I get to enjoy them all by myself. These are the best pickled eggs you will ever try.

Seasonal Seasonal Me Menu nu Tuesday to Friday lunch: 11:30am 2pm lun ch: 11 :30am ttoo 2p m dinner: Close di nner: 5pm ttoo Cl ose Saturday 5pm ttoo Clo se Close

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a chef remembered

Candy Hartley Well-known local chef, Candace (Candy) Hartley, passed away May 20, 2013. We take a moment to remember a local inspiration. Candy Hartley was born on Toronto Island in 1952. She began her career as a server, but soon fell in love with the kitchen Candace (Candy) Hartley 1952-2013 and moved to the back of the house; first as a prep cook and moving up as the opportunities came. She graduated from George Brown College and after graduation worked in some of the top restaurants in Toronto at the time, including the Windsor Arms and Noodles, an iconic Italian restaurant run by Dante Rota.. Candy moved to the west coast 1989. In Victoria, she was hired by chef David Hammonds (now GM at the Union Club) as the Restaurant Chef at the Empress Hotel. “Candy was a sincere and honest person who loved food,” says Hammonds. “There was always harmony in her kitchen, and people respected her as well as always learning from her.” Her daughter, Serryna Whiteside, remembers her mom excelling at cooking competitions because “she was a tough cookie who remained calm and cool under the intense pressure. She was all about perfect colours and arrangements.” After the Empress, Candy became the Executive Chef at UVic’s Dunsmuir Lodge in North Saanich. A big supporter of the local food movement, she would spend her own time visiting the local farms to shop for the evening menu before going into work. During her time at Dunsmuir, she cooked at numerous Feast of Fields and at Defending Our Backyard to support the local farmers and local food movement. Also at Dunsmuir Lodge, Candy began to mentor young cooks and take on apprentices. Heather Hignett of Vin Coco Patisserie remembers being hired right out of Camosun College by Candy. “I am grateful to have known and learned from such a strong and intelligent woman. Candace, if she wanted to, could have easily forgotten more about cooking than most aspiring chefs will ever hope to learn. I only hope I can keep a tiny bit of her friendship and wisdom with me always.” After Dunsmuir was shut down in 2009, Candy did a brief stint at the upscale Wellesley Retirement House in Victoria as she loved working with the elderly. She moved on to Church and State Winery as the chef in charge of the restaurant and running the larger functions. “Mom’s heart and soul was in the kitchen,” says her daughter. “She was a downto-earth person who didn’t like pomp and ceremony and was happiest in the kitchen, cooking.” Candy Hartley had a great rapport with people and her life touched many people through her long years in the hospitality industry. She is survived by Robert McKinnon, her husband of 35 years, and her daughter Serryna. —Gary Hynes

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www.eatmagazine.ca JULY | AUGUST 2013

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Eat magazine july | august 2013