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EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:33 AM Page 1

Ex Vo cept S e t in g io n a e p Op l E a g e n a ts e4 • !A P ri w a z e s rd Ga s: lo r e

RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | FOOD | TRAVEL ®

!

Smart. Local. Delicious.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY

CELEBRATING

15 YEARS OF GOOD FOOD & DRINK

l 2015 | Issue 19-01 | eatmagazine.ca

LAMB MASALA MEATBALLS


EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:33 AM Page 2

Bamix Immersion Blender

TWO RIVERS SPECIALTY MEATS DIRECT TO CONSUMER PROGRAM

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Meating

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Broadmead Village, 130-777 Royal Oak Drive, Victoria, BC www.pennakitchen.com, 250-727-2110, Info@pennakitchen.com

Open for Dinner Service

Tuesday through Saturday At 45 Bastion Square

starting at 5:30

Globally Inspired. Local Flavour. @CamillesDining

2

EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

Camille`s @ 45 Bastion Square Victoria, BC 250-381-3433 www.camillesrestaurant.com

CamillesAt45BastionSquare


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Smart. Local. Delicious.

content

DEPARTMENTS

Be a rebel, try it!

06 FROM THE EDITOR

g Food 07 CONCIERGE DESK Monthly calendar of events + festivals

09 Food Matters Julie Pegg cooks gumbo.

10 Good For You Top gluten-free products

12 Get Fresh Rediscover the unassuming rutabaga

13 Epicure At Large Jeremy Ferguson talks olives

g

Restaurants

14 Reporter Tacofino, La Stella Trattoria

18 Eating Well For Less The Pacific, The Drake, Lunn’s

21 Top 5 Ode to a sausage roll

g Features 16 Greener Grocers

As much as we love the versatility and

Joseph Blake does a tour of local grocery stores

22 The Offal Truth

familiarity that peas and carrots can bring

Blood, guts and glory

g Recipes

to a dish, why not be a rebel and try the new kid on the block?

26 Local Kitchen Jennifer Danter eats her dessert before her main course. Well, why not?

g Wine

Introducing Romanesco

& Beer

This Italian beauty takes after its cousins,

29 Cocktail of the Month A drink to warm up your cockles

Broccoli and Cauliflower but with a

30 Vincabulary

seductive nutty, earthy flavour that cannot

SĂŠmillon makes luscious sweet wines

31 Beer & a Bite

be denied. Make your dinner plate into

Bottle Rocket ISA and spicy Asian salad

a Van Gogh artpiece by adding

32 Wine + Terroir Instant gratification? Not with these wines.

34 Wine & Food Pairing Be righteous in January so you can be more wicked in February

35 Liquid Assets Larry Arnold recommends 9 wines

g

Community

37 What the Pros Know: Food-related resolutions 38 The Buzz: All the news that fit to print... and then some

Top bartender Shawn Soole created this warming winter cocktail for EAT readers. Pg 29

Romanesco and captivate everyone around the dinner table tonight!

photo by R. Wellman

Try Moroccan-style Chicken with Romanesco, Walnuts & Pomegranate Recipe & Tips at thriftyfoods.com/recipes

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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PRIZES

Let the Voting Begin!!

After letting the scene steep and flourish for a couple of years, we’re back with the 5th Annual Exceptional Eats! Reader Awards. With your participation and support, we can help celebrate and recognize what has happened over the past two years. Plus more fantastic draw prizes for entries. Thanks and let’s get celebrating! It is incredible the growth that can occur in 24 short months—the lunch spots, the brunch spots, the food trucks and eateries, the products and produce that can flourish in such a relatively short time. Take a moment to pause with us. We live in a ripe and thriving community and this is beautifully represented in the food and drink being created right where we live.

So we invite you, our readers, to look back and consider: how has your year in food been, both at home and out and about? This is the perfect moment to explore where we are now.

Those of you who have been a part of this process before will see some familiar places in the questions, but there are new ones too that reflect what has been happening here. We need to respect and appreciate where our love for local culture food is taking us.

Please take your time and answer those questions that interest you and about which you feel knowledgeable (you don’t have to answer them all). At EAT Magazine, we value your opinion; we also believe it’s important to celebrate what’s happening in food and drink and those who are making it happen. Combine the two and you get what the Exceptional Eats! Reader Awards are all about. Discuss the questions with friends and family, or simply mull them over with a glass of your favourite libation. Taking part has its rewards—it could land you one of a selection of delectable prizes. Thanks for your time, and now—we begin.

10 Acres Bistro + Bar + Farm $100 Gift Certificate Camilles Restaurant Two $50 Gift Certificates Canoe Brewpub A Canoe branded hoodie Cascadia Liquor Stores A private wine tasting for four, led by a certified Cascadia Liquor Store sommelier Crooked Goose Bistro $50 Gift Certificate Delta Ocean Pointe Hotel VIP Patio Party for 6 people consisting of dinner for 6 with cocktails/craft beer Fernwood Inn $60 Gift Certificate Galloping Goose Grille $164 Gift Certificate Hester Creek Estate Winery Magnum of Cabernet Franc with box Heron Rock Bistro $50 Gift Certificate Hillside Liquor Store Two $50 Gift Certificates Hudson on First $100 Gift Certificate Oughtred Coffee & Tea $100 Gift Certificate Pescatores/Oyster Bar $100 Gift Certificate Rocky Road Winery Gift Certificate worth $100 Silk Road Tea & Chocolate Pairing Gift Certificate worth $300 Spinnakers Three Course Dinner for Two with Beer Pairings and a One Night Stay in our Heritage House including Breakfast for Two Spud.ca $150 Gift Certificate Unsworth Vineyards & Restaurant Lunch, Wine tasting & Tour for Four $100 value Victoria Public Market $50 in Market Bucks The Whole Beast One year of meat valued at $120.00.

Go to www.eatmagazine.ca to Vote ...and enter the draw for a chance to win a prize 4


EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:34 AM Page 5

E AT FOUNDER & EDITOR Gary Hynes PUBLISHER Pacific Island Gourmet ASSISTANT EDITOR Colin Hynes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Carolyn Bateman VANCOUVER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Julie Pegg DRINK EDITOR Treve Ring SENIOR WINE WRITER Larry Arnold ART DIRECTION Gary Hynes COPYEDITORS Cynthia Annett, Jon Johnson REGIONAL REPORTERS Tofino | Ucluelet Jen Dart | Victoria Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan Valley-Up Island Kirsten Tyler CONTRIBUTORS Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Holly Brooke, Adam Cantor, Cinda Chavich, John Crawford, Jennifer Danter, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Colin Hynes, Jon Johnson, Sol Kaufman, Tracey Kusiewicz, Sophie MacKenzie, Sherri Martin, Jeannette Montgomery, Elizabeth Monk, Michaela Morris, Simon Nattrass, Elizabeth Nyland, Tim Pawsey, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Kaitlyn Rosenburg, Michael Tourigny, Sylvia, Weinstock, Rebecca Wellman. Cover photography by Michael Tourigny

Since 1998 | EAT Magazine is published six times each year. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Although every effort is taken to ensure accuracy, Pacific Island Gourmet Publishing cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions that may occur. All opinions expressed in the articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of the publisher. Pacific Island Gourmet reserves the right to refuse any advertisement. All rights reserved.

OUR ETHICAL GUIDING PRINCIPALS 1. EAT has advertisers in our magazine and on our website; they are our primary source of income. Our company, Pacific Island Gourmet, employs a dedicated advertising team responsible for selling ad space in EAT and on EatMagazine.ca. The EAT editorial team does not accept money or other consideration from companies as a condition or incentive to write a review or story. All editorial content on EAT is based on the editor’s discretion, not on the desire of any company, advertiser or PR firm. Occasionally EAT and EatMagazine.ca may publish sponsor content, which will be labelled. 2. EAT contributors are not allowed to ask for free meals or drinks. Anyone identifying themselves as being on assignment for EAT will be able to prove their employment.

HOW TO REACH EAT MAGAZINE ADVERTISING 250.384.9042, editor@eatmagazine.ca WEBSITE EatMagazine.ca MAILING ADDRESS Box 5225, Victoria, BC, V8R 6N4 TEL 250.384.9042 EMAIL editor@eatmagazine.ca PICK-UP THE MAGAZINE EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locations in BC including Victoria & Vancouver, Vancouver Island. Visit our website for locations

Facebook/EatMagazine

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www.eatmagazine.ca Sign-up for our Tapas newsletter

Publisher Pacific Island Gourmet | EAT ® is a registered trademark.

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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Editor’s Note IN AN ATTEMPT NOT TO WRITE THE USUAL, this won’t be the typical food editor’s note about New Year’s resolutions to eat healthy, blah blah blah. I won’t mention—beyond this sentence—all the off-the-chart foods I ate, the fine wines I drank (thank you somms), the many amazing people I met and the cool places I visited (shout-out to East End London!), and all my plans and goals for 2014: to be a better listener, to take longer walks with my dog Etta, to cook more with vegetables, to keep my desk tidier, learn French, make pickles, reply to emails faster, to finally read all those enticing cookbooks that are piled high in the corner—and to stop stringing together endless words in a single sentence. The rest of the EAT team had a wonderful year as well. They created an interesting, smart and entertaining magazine as well as a quirky, up-to-the-minute website that covered the people, places and foods found in every little nook in our city. We hope we have created a comprehensive and balanced food and drink experience that reflects our beautiful city and province.

HAND-CRAFTED BREAD MADE WITH FRESHLY STONE-MILLED FLOUR AND ONLY CERTIFIED ORGANIC OR SUSTAINABLY GROWN LOCAL INGREDIENTS . NATURALLY LEAVENED AND BAKED TO CRUSTY PERFECTION IN WOOD-FIRED BRICK OVENS.

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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

The first issue of 2015 is no exception. After a two-year hiatus, contributor Gillie Easdon and I collaborated to bring back the popular Exceptional Eats! Awards Reader Survey. It’s the fifth incarnation and readers who take the time to answer the survey will see the changes in our city since the last EE Awards were held reflected in the questions we ask. These readers will also be eligible to enter a draw to win fantastic prizes donated by twenty wonderful local businesses. Thanks everyone! Elsewhere in the magazine, we take a look the growing number of neighbourhood green grocers, then do a quick 180 to look at all the odd meaty bits that can be found at the butcher shop and, increasingly, on menus around town. Our intrepid columnists talk olives, gluten-free goodies, rutabagas, gumbo, beer, spicy salad, sausage rolls, and sémillon. Now, in case you do want some ideas on how to eat more healthily in the New Year, our group of professional nutritionists gives us their thoughts to close out the issue. A safe, healthy, and delicious 2015 to you and your family, and thank you for your reader- and viewer-ship. I’ll see you at the neighbourhood watering hole. I’ll be the one with the root-beer braised pork sandwich, or Old Fashioned, or melon salad, or Dunkel, funghi pizza, Sancerre, moules frites, Yonni’s doughnut, Honduras pourover, fish burrito, glass of Rhone, spicy tuna tataki, Tiger Blue, caramel cake... —Gary Hynes, Editor.


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CONCIERGE

By Rebecca Baugniet

January

COOKING WITH MOOSEMEAT & MARMALADE (Victoria) Join Art Napoleon & Dan Hayes, hosts of the wildly popular Moosemeat & Marmalade, for an afternoon in the kitchen! Art and Dan will guide you through fun and interactive afternoon of cooking, eating and education about traditional Aboriginal cuisine. You will explore the history of Aboriginal cuisine, talk about our local wild ingredients and cook along with Art & Dan, before enjoying a three course meal. Jan 10, 1-4pm $95. (www.thelondonchef.com) WINTER SALADS AND BRAISED MEATS CLASS (Victoria) Keeping a healthy diet through winter can be a challenge, unless you have taken this class. Offered by chef Michael Williams at Cook Culture, this class will focus on great winter salads and dressings that can be made in batches ahead of time, as well as simple and delicious slow cooked meats, which can be made the day before or on the weekend. Jan 14, 6-9pm. $85. (www.cookculture.com) 10th ANNUAL VICTORIA WHISKY FESTIVAL (Victoria) Once again, the Hotel Grand Pacific is hosting the popular four-day Whisky celebration. Events include masterclasses and tastings such as the Grand Whisky and Chocolate Tasting with Alwynne Gwilt (“Miss Whisky”) and the Glenmorangie Distillery Masterclass with Ruaraidh MacIntyre. Jan. 15-18. (www.victoriawhiskyfestival.com) OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL (Portland &Yamhill, Eugene, Oregon) Created to celebrate the magnificent Oregon truffles as they reach the peak of ripeness in their native soil, it is the first festival of its kind in North America, dedicated to sharing the experience of the chefs, foragers and fans of Oregon's wild truffles, from their hidden source in the forest to their glory on the table. This year the festival will be held in two locations; in Portland and Yamhill Jan 15-18 and in Eugene Jan 23-25. (www.oregontrufflefestival.com) WINTER OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL (Okanagan) Set in the magnificent alpine setting of Sun Peaks Resort, the annual Winter Okanagan Wine Festival is one of a kind. While the vines are snoozing through the winter, the Okanagan winemakers are hard at work. Well, okay – they get a break from time to time. And they want you to visit them. Jan 16- 25. (www.thewinefestivals.com)

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13th DINE OUT VANCOUVER FESTIVAL (Vancouver) Celebrate the thirteenth anniversary of Canada’s largest restaurant festival. From Jan 16- Feb 1, eat your way through 17 days of culinary events. Hundreds of restaurants will be offering three-course prix-fixe dinners. (BC VQA wine pairings available at additional cost). Restaurant menus will be revealed and reservations open on January 7. (www.dineoutvancouver.com)

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www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:34 AM Page 8

EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

The Ultimate  Cookbook for Hockey Families by Erin Phillips & Korey Kealey

T

he new year is a time of

resolutions, and more often

than not, those resolutions

involve food. Whether it’s cutting

out some of that really terrible junk from your diet, or maybe even just finding the time to prepare and eat regular meals, the common denominator is that what we eat matters, and the start of a new year is as good a time as any to put the focus back on good, proper food. But for a lot of us, the free time is our daily lives simply doesn’t agree. Enter The Ultimate Cookbook for Hockey Families, a compendium of quick, delicious, and healthy recipes from the nonstop world of Canadian hockey. Maybe you are a hockey family, with (as the book’s description suggests) “kids who are on the ice six nights a week”, struggling to come up with meal ideas that are feasible with limited time, at home or on the go, or maybe you’re just really, really busy, like so many of us are. In either case, the importance of meals that are both nutritious and practical cannot be understated. In The Ultimate Cookbook for Hockey Families, Erin Phillips and Korey Kealey talk to some big names in pro hockey to find out what they prepare for themselves and their families in the limited time they get between games and pract ices. Ottawa Senators’ Kyle Turris, Canadian Olympian Cassie Campbell, and over twenty others, talk about easy and nutritious eating for breakfast, dinner, and everything in between. Whether you’re looking for ideas for entire meals, or just quick snacks that can be thrown together and taken to go without sacrificing nutrients, there’s something in this book for you. Don’t let your busy life stand in the way of great eating check out this book and the fantastic food that it has to offer.

The Ultimate Cookbook for Hockey Families is available now at Bolen Books for $24.95.

111-1644 Hillside Ave., Victoria www.bolen.bc.ca (250) 595-4232

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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

TASTE BC 2014 (Vancouver) The 21st Annual Taste BC will be an experience of BC’s finest wine, beer and spirits accompanied by tasty fare from some of Vancouver’s best local restaurants. All Taste BC’s proceeds benefit one of the province’s most vital medical institutions, the BC Children’s Hospital. Jan. 22, 4.30-7.30 pm. Tickets $49.99. (tastebc.wordpress.com)

February

SEEDY SATURDAYS ON VANCOUVER ISLAND (Qualicum Beach, Salt Spring Island and Victoria) These events are the premier networking and educational event for gardeners of all abilities! This year’s theme is Sow the Seeds: Feb 1 at the Qualicum Beach Civic Centre, from 10am – 3.30pm (Qualicum Beach). Feb 14 at the Farmers’ Institute on Salt Spring Island, and Feb 21 at the Victoria Conference Centre, from 10am – 4 pm (Victoria, BC) (www.seeds.ca) HEALTH, WELLNESS & SUSTAINABILITY FESTIVAL (Victoria) A yearly celebration and education on any and all things leading to a healthier body and mind. Feb 6: Dinner at Dunlop House. 5 course dinner. Proceeds to the Island Chef Collaboration. 7pm. Feb 7: Health Wellness & Sustainability Festival, from 10 am to 5 pm, Victoria Conference Centre. Feb 7: Sandor Katz at 7:30 pm. For more information and ticket details see pg. 11 in this issue. healthandwellnessfestival.ca VICTORIA FILM FESTIVAL (Victoria) The 21st Annual VFF will take place Feb. 6-15. This festival always includes a good selection of food flicks, and we can’t wait to see what’s on the menu this year. Watch the website for emerging event details. (www.victoriafilmfestival.com) DIM SUM TEA AT THE PACIFIC (Victoria) In celebration of the Chinese New Year, the Hotel Grand Pacific is offering a Dim Sum Tea from Feb 18-28. This unique afternoon tea pairs Asian influences with local, sustainable ingredients. (www.hotelgrandpacific.com/events.htm) PARKSVILLE UNCORKED (Parksville) Some of Parksville's finest beach resorts have come together once again to feature the very best wines & gourmet foods from throughout British Columbia. This festival, held at various locations throughout Parksville, offers something for everyone! Whether you are a novice or an experienced wine lover, enjoy tastings, seminars, featured wine dinners, bubbly brunches and wine-inspired spa treatments. Last year's festival was a sell-out, so book early to avoid disappointment. Feb 19-22. (www.parksvilleuncorked.com) DINE AROUND AND STAY IN TOWN (Victoria) Tourism Victoria and the BC Restaurant and Food Services Association’s 10th Annual Dine Around and Stay in Town will take place from Feb 20-Mar 9. Participating restaurants will offer three-course menus for $20, $30, $40 CND per person and are all paired with BC VQA wine suggestions. This year select restaurants will once again offer celiacfriendly menus. (www.tourismvictoria.com/dine) VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL (Vancouver) One of the world's premiere wine festivals, this event, held at various locations throughout Vancouver, is a unique opportunity to learn about and enjoy some of the world's finest wines. The event features wine tastings and pairings, gourmet dinners and luncheons, educational seminars and culinary competitions. Feb 20 – Mar 1. (vanwinefest.ca/) CULINAIRE (Victoria) The fifth annual Culinaire event will be held at the Crystal Garden on March 19 this year. This event provides locals with the opportunity to savour signature menu items and inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants, lounges, pubs, cafes, specialty purveyors, and sip from a fine selection of local and regional wine, cider, and craft beer. Partial proceeds provide scholarship awards to the Camosun College Culinary Arts Program and a donation is made. culinairevictoria.com

ONGOING MOSS STREET WINTER MARKET (Victoria) November through April, every Saturday, 10am to noon, in the Garry Oak Room at the Sir James Douglas Elementary School in Fairfield. mossstreetmarket.com WINTER MARKET (Vancouver) Held every Saturday, from 10am -2pm, at the Nat Bailey Stadium. Once again, you can also bring your food scraps from home to recycle at the Food Scraps Drop Spot, sponsored by Recycling Alternative and Vancouver Farmers Markets. A donation of $2 per drop is appreciated. (eatlocal.org)


EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:34 AM Page 9

g FOOD MATTERS

By Julie Pegg

My Gumbo Weekend

The southern comfort food was the perfect ritual for three rainy days.

ON A PARTICULARLY FOUL-WEATHER WEEKEND I set to making a big pot of Gumbo Ya Ya, so named perhaps for the piquant flavours that jump from this good ole Louisiana comfort dish. (Ya-ya means everyone talking loudly and at once.) Making gumbo turned into a three-day ritual. The whole process began by my thumbing through American cookbooks and googling “gumbo.” Becoming increasingly bewildered, but loving the many legends, opinions and sometime outré recipes that surround this southern soup-cum-stew, I culled my findings to recipes from the following sources: New Orleans Good Food and Glorious Houses written by Lee Bailey with Ella Brennan, owner of Brennan’s, one of the Big Easy’s more venerable eateries; an essay called “Creole, Cajun, Choctaw” from American Taste by James Villas; and the Food Network’s Alton Brown. Incidentally, Bailey’s books, a mix of design, photography and unfussy delicious recipes, are a delight. Bailey passed away in 2003 but his work is timeless. I’m particularly fond of Soup Meals, published in 1989. To get the best out of gumbo, the flavours, which rely heavily on chicken and Andouille (smoked Cajun sausage), need to “build.” Such construction demands that all ingredients be readied (mise en place in chef-speak) before you even think about turning on the stove. Otherwise, you will become hellishly disorganized. Friday mid-afternoon: I assemble pretty much everything I will need, including cookware—cast iron skillet, Dutch oven, wooden spoon—while a spatchcocked chicken massaged with Creole seasoning (salt, onion, garlic, cayenne, paprika, thyme, oregano) slow-roasts in the skillet. I light a fire, pour myself a glass of wine and reread for the umpteenth time M.F.K. Fisher’s “The Well-dressed Oyster” (Consider the Oyster, 1988).

Jotted down toward the end is a short but sweet recipe for oyster gumbo. My initial foray into the gumbo ritual, however, was Eugene Walter’s “The Gumbo Cult.” First published in Gourmet in April 1962, this whimsical essay chronicled the writer’s attempts to make gumbo in Paris and Rome. Soon it was time to remove the chicken from the oven. Crisped spicy skin and tender meat slip easily away from the bird and get put aside. Skin and bones go into a stockpot. Enticing aromas fill the kitchen as stock simmers. All is right with the world. Saturday early evening: After defatting cooled and refrigerated stock, I take a sharp knife to yellow onion, green pepper and celery, the trinity that pretty much underpins all southern cooking. Then it’s time to attend to the roux. Gumbo is all about the roux. No quick whisk of flour and fat. Instead, flour and oil slowly come together until they are chocolate-brown velvet. Alton Brown’s method of baking the roux in the oven, lid off, for at least an hour while stirring it a couple of times in the process is a perfect no-brainer. And if ever there were toastier, nuttier aromas to waft from an oven, I don’t recall them. Onto the stovetop and into the roux goes the trinity of vegetables, followed by ladles of warmed stock. Into the CD player goes Robbie Robertson’s Storyville, named after New Orleans’s red-light district of the 1900s. I figure there must have been quart upon quart of gumbo ladled out in dingy brothels and smoky bars? It was time to put the mixture to rest until tomorrow. Sunday—dinner: I pour a pre-prandial Sazerac—rye, bitters, simple syrup (alas no absinthe). On goes the stove. About twenty minutes before serving, thick chunks of white and dark chicken and a pound or so of sliced Andouille sausage are dropped into a warmed roux mixture. Off the heat and prior to dishing up, a dash of filé— powdered, dried sassafras leaves faintly smelling of citrus—thickens the stew. Okra too is a traditional thickener. (The jury is out as to whether “gumbo” originates from ki ngombo, the African word for okra, or gombo, the Choctaw word for filé.) The gumbo turned out to be a mighty fine stew, as comforting to make as it was to savour. It tasted better the next day—even better the next. (I made a lot!) This is not my last gumbo rodeo. Next time I will make a seafood gumbo—and revisit the film The Big Easy. Inviting John Goodman into the process seems perfect.

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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g GOOD FOR YOU

By Pam Durkin

Free for All

Gluten-free goes mainstream. FOR YEARS “gluten-free” was merely a niche category—something reserved for celiacs only. Not anymore. With a growing number of people adopting a gluten-free diet, gluten-free fare has undergone an evolution. It no longer consists of tasteless concoctions made from refined, nutritionally depleted flours and starches. Manufacturers have heeded consumer demand and are now producing scrumptious gluten-free goodies made from nutrient-dense ingredients that are good for everybody—regardless of their health issues. Here are some exemplary examples of this trend and my picks for the best new gluten-free foods on the market. PAMELA’S WHENEVER BARS—Available in four delicious flavours, these moist, chewy bars are reminiscent of Mom’s best oatmeal cookie. Made with gluten-free oats, lightly sweetened with agave, and chock-full of wholesome ingredients like chia seeds, heart-healthy nuts and fruits, they make the perfect “go-to snack.” While they hold universal appeal, they are particularly beneficial for those restricted to a gluten-free diet. Researchers from Columbia University recently found that the nutritional profile of gluten-free diets was improved significantly by adding gluten-free oats and quinoa to meals and snacks. TOLERANT BRAND PASTA—Certified organic, gluten-free and non-GMO, Tolerant’s line of pastas are unique in that they contain one solitary ingredient and are loaded with protein. Made from either red lentils or black beans, these powerhouse noodles provide a whopping 21-22 grams of protein per three-ounce serving. That’s more protein than you’d find in a three-ounce filet of fish! What’s more, they are an excellent source of cholesterol-lowering fibre and important nutrients like iron, B vitamins, molybdenum, manganese and potassium. Their taste is equally impressive— I tried the black bean fettuccine and was instantly smitten! (Available at Thrifty Foods and Lifestyle Markets.) HIPPIE SNACKS—Made in Burnaby by Left Coast Naturals, Hippie Snacks are a line of gluten-free, organic, non-GMO foods that include granolas, corn chips, coconut cookies and coconut “chips.” The line’s granolas—rife with sprouted quinoa, brown rice puffs, super seeds and nuts—are as palate-pleasing as they are nutritious. Equally tempting are the coconut cookies that come in three positively addictive flavours, and the stone-ground corn chips that boast health-enhancing add-ins like beans, seeds and veggies. The coconut chips take the taste of fresh, young coconut flakes to a new level. There is literally something for everyone in this remarkable lineup—gluten intolerant or not. CANYON BAKEHOUSE GF-BREADS—Creating a superb loaf of bread using only gluten-free flour is no easy feat. The vast majority of gluten-free breads I’ve tried have been disappointing, brick-like loaves with uninspired flavour. Toasting was de rigueur to render any of their slices remotely edible. Thankfully, the breads from Canyon Bakehouse contradict this generalization. Their soft texture, chewy crusts and delectable flavour can compete with the best wheat or rye breads on baker’s shelves. My favourites are the Deli Rye Style—which sandwiches ham and cheese impeccably—and the 7Grain, an excellent base for my beloved PB&Js! Whichever variety of Canyon Bakehouse bread you choose, you’re assured of powerhouse nutrition. They are all made from good-for-you gluten-free whole grains like brown rice, sorghum, millet and teff. TIN ROOF DELI’S GF-PIZZAS—Leave the boxed, bland, gluten-free pizzas in the supermarket freezer and head to Cook Street Village’s Tin Roof Deli for real “melt-inyour-mouth” handmade pizza. With their crispy, soul-satisfying rice-flour crusts and seemingly endless variety of fresh toppings, these pizzas are the perfect “take-homemeal” with appeal. Health fanatics will love the Veggie Supreme, a nutrient-dense mélange of fresh tomatoes, kale, kalamata olives, mushrooms and, of course, cheese. One of my favourites—a must for meat lovers—is the Quatro Stagione, a robust combination of prosciutto, artichokes, mushrooms and olives. Gluten-free, nutritious, delicious and local—that’s a quartet decidedly worthy of a Good-for-You recommendation. E See next page for info on the Health, Wellness & Sustainability Festival

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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015


EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:34 AM Page 11

EAT SPECIAL PROMOTION

THE HEALTH, WELLNESS & SUSTAINABILITY FESTIVAL

ealth, wellness and sustainability are concerns most EAT readers share, and that’s the focus of this second annual festival on February 7 at the Victoria Conference Centre. Previously known as the Gluten-Free Health and Wellness Festival, this year’s more inclusive event has expanded to include many healthy living options, including acupuncture, naturopathy and massage therapy; health-minded cosmetics and skincare; gluten-free foods; and fitness, yoga and martial arts studios. “The goal of the festival is creating strong communities in health for all ages,” explains producer Ari Hershberg. “It takes a village to raise a child, and I believe it takes a city to improve health. “Our major sponsors are Origin Bakery, the local gluten-free bakery, and Pacific Rim College, an internationally-recognized school of complementary and integrative medicine. The Downtown Victoria Business Association, the Fairmont Empress, Silk Road Tea, the public library, BC Transit, the Pacific School of Innovation and Inquiry and many other community groups and businesses are contributing to this year’s event. It’s so exciting to work with PSII’s high school students!” Hershberg enthuses. “They’ve helped with the festival’s design and advertising while making it more youth accessible and participatory with our hands-on science fair.” Festival vendors will offer an array of gluten-free food, beverages and cosmetics to sample and buy while educating visitors on health, wellness and sustainability. Share Organics, Rise Kombucha, Health Essentials and Float House, a Victoria-based sensory deprivation and flotation centre, are some of the many new vendors at this year’s event. The festival hosts almost a dozen guest speakers ranging from University of Calgary’s Dr. Bonnie Kaplan’s talk on how nutrition affects the brain to Silk Road Tea’s Daniela Cubelic’s insights into the benefits of tea drinking. The 30-minute talks are held in a private theatre setting with great acoustics, and Hershberg emphasizes that the “Tedx Talks-coached speakers” will be “entertaining, with no selling!” This year’s special guest evening speaker is fermentation expert Sandor Katz, author of the award-winning bestseller The Art of Fermentation and Wild Fermentation. In 2009, Chow named Katz one of the magazine’s top trendsetters and rabble-rousers. The charismatic Katz lives in a rural community in Tennessee. His talk at 7 p.m. is sure to be provocative, informative and entertaining. To kick off the festival, a one-of-a-kind, five-course dinner will be held the evening before (February 6, 7 p.m.) at Dunlop House, 3100 Foul Bay Rd., put on by Camosun College chef trainees. Tickets are $75 and include beverages, with proceeds going to Island Chefs Collaborative charities. —By Joseph Blake

H

Eat well.

Have fun.

victoria conference centre

- february 7, 2015 early bird event tickets starting at $6 10 am - 5 pm

10am-5pm

www. cavavictoria.com 250.590.7982

early bird sandor katz tickets starting at $15

to purchase tickets & for more info visit

healthandwellnessfestival.ca www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:34 AM Page 12

g GET FRESH

By Sylvia Weinstock

Rutabagas

Swede, Neeps or Rutabaga? Depends where you live. RUTABAGA IS ONE OF THOSE overlooked winter vegetables that deserves a more elevated status. This large round veggie has a violet-purple bottom and an ecru or lemon-yellow top. Depending on the variety, rutabaga has orange-yellow or pale yellow flesh with a peppery, slightly bitter, sweet and earthy flavour. The flesh turns bright orange when it is cooked. West Coast Seeds sells organic seeds for Laurentian rutabagas, which are also grown in the Fraser Valley. Rutabaga isn’t a root vegetable. It is the bulb-like above ground growth of a cabbage family plant which originated as a cross between summer turnips and winter white cabbage. Its name derives from the Swedish rotabagge, and it is often called a Swedish turnip or a swede in England and most Commonwealth countries. The bulb is also called “Canadian turnip,” because it is one of the few veggies Canada grows for export. In Scotland, rutabagas are called swedes, neeps or (erroneously) turnips. Many Scottish recipes call the rutabaga a turnip, even though they are referring to a swede. Bashit neeps and champit tatties (taters) are the traditional accompaniment for haggis at Burns suppers, held January 25 to honour Scottish poet Robbie Burns. Snadgers, snaggers and narkies are other colloquial monikers. In most parts of North America, the bulb is called rutabaga or swede, and “turnip” refers to the true turnip, a smaller cabbage family relative. (In Manitoba, Ontario and Atlantic provinces, rutabagas are called “turnips.” Don’t ask why.) Although there are yellow-fleshed turnips, they aren’t rutabagas. Rutabagas are an excellent source of vitamin C, and a good source of fiber and minerals. They can be boiled and mashed, as in the Finnish casserole lanttulaatikko, which combines swedes, cream, eggs, nutmeg, butter and honey. They can be roasted with root vegetables as a side dish for duck or lamb. They are used to flavour soups, such as the traditional Welsh lamb broth cawl. Boiled swedes, potatoes, carrots and onions are pureed with lashings of butter and cream to make rotmos, a Swedish dish served with salted herring or ham hocks. The raw peeled bulb can be thinly julienned and tossed into a salad. Think outside the box and use rutabagas to make creamy pasta sauce, or make rutabaga-potato gnocchi and serve it with roasted red bell pepper sauce. If you grow more rutabagas than you can eat, check out www.rutabagacurl.com for the rules and regulations of International Rutabaga Curling. I love transforming rock-hard rutabagas into silky, creamy winter soups, fragrant with the scent of warming spices. This wonderful recipe uses several seasonal favourites—parsnips, celery root and oranges—along with your new fave, rutabagas. E

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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

Rutabaga Parsnip Celery Root Soup with Orange and Ginger (Serves 4) 1 Tbsp unsalted butter 2 ½ cups coarsely chopped Vidalia onions 1 ¾ cups chopped rutabaga 2 ¼ cups chopped parsnips 2 ½ cups chopped celery root Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 thyme sprigs 3 ½ cups chicken or vegetable broth 1 navel orange 1 tsp freshly grated peeled ginger ½ cup water Fresh tarragon leaves

Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion and salt and cook, stirring continuously, until onion is soft. Add vegetables, thyme and broth. Bring to a boil, and reduce heat. Cover and simmer until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes. Remove and discard thyme. Puree soup in batches in a blender and transfer to the cooking pot. Remove the zest from the orange, cut it in half and squeeze it to make 1 cup of juice. Prior to serving, stir in zest, juice, ginger, and add water to desired consistency. Reheat, season with salt and pepper and garnish with tarragon.


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g EPICURE AT LARGE

By JEREMY FERGUSON

The Ancient Olive A taste older than wine.

THE OLIVE SEEMS SO ANCIENT, it’s not unreasonable to wonder if it was the metaphorical fruit (yes, a fruit, cousin to figs and dates) that spoiled the good life in Eden. There is, in fact, considerable diversity of opinion on that subject: the Old Testament never actually mentions an apple. Biblical scholars point to the pomegranate as the more historically likely suspect. And as Christians went about spreading the gospel, their fruit of choice was often the banana (“Adam, Adam, we gave it all up for a banana?”) I digress. Food anthropologists believe the olive came out of Africa, arriving in the Mediterranean via ancient Egypt. Olive cultivation was flourishing in Crete and Syria as early as 3,000 BC. Thriving in inhospitable soil, its fruit cherished, its oil a trader’s treasure, it was a natural superstar in the Mediterranean world. Plato named it his favourite fruit. It roared across Greece, Italy, France and Spain before the time of Christ. Mohammed is said to have declared, “Take the oil of olive and massage with it—it is a blessed tree.” The blessed tree now grows in such faraway places as Asia, Australia, the Americas and, yes, British Columbia. Michael Pierce of the Saturna Olive Consortium imports 300 to 500 trees per year from California and sells them to aspiring growers in Vancouver, Victoria and the Gulf Islands. The Tuscan Frantoio and Leccino varieties do especially well, an inspiring trend as our climate continues to warm up. Visit www.olivetrees.ca to order up a new hobby. Certain Victoria eateries live up to their names. Signature dish at the Black Olive on Pandora is prawn-and-mussel linguine in black olive pesto cream. Roast chicken comes with black olive tapenade. Rack of lamb comes marinated in proprietor Paul Psyllakis’s Kastamonitsa extra virgin olive oil from Crete, where his family has been producing olive oil for almost a century. When he pours olive oil over his ice cream, he knows what he’s doing. The Olive Grove on West Saanich Road serves a zesty tapenade with charbroiled Greek sausage, while its house pasta includes both kalamata olives and lemon-infused olive oil. At Pizzeria Prima Strada on Cook (also on Bridge), share an app of mixed marinated olives with garlic, oregano and preserved lemon. And on my pungently Mediterranean pizza Romana, black olives hold their own with garlic, anchovies and San Marzano tomato sauce. A current urban trend in the U.S. and Canada is the olive oil tasting bar. Victoria’s is the cleverly punned Olive the Senses. Located in the Hudson Market, it presents a phalanx of international oils in containers with spigots. Tasting spoons are provided and away you go. Most supermarkets carry an impressive selection of imported olives (less impressive are tinned California olives, which come unfermented, low in acid, packed in the mildest of brines and terminally bland). With my nightly tumbler of whisky, I’ll take a dish of green olives stuffed with anchovies (straight from the tin), rolled in flour, dipped in egg wash, rolled again in finely chopped almonds and deep-fried. Tapenade is a staple in our house, but even more flavourful is anchoïade, a Provençal paste that often melds olives with anchovies, garlic, olive oil and vinegar to define the soul of umami. For dinner, give me Moroccan tagine laced with black olives and preserved lemon, and call me Sultan. And how about, from Cold Comfort on North Park, olive oil ice cream? The timeless olive dances over the horizon, ships, winged gorgons and us in tow, into its next thousand years of seducing the mortal palate. E

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www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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REPORTER

The tuna taco at Tacofino photo: Rebecca Wellman

Tacofino 787 Fort St, Victoria | tacofino.com | In what has felt like very little time at all, Fort Street has grown into one of Victoria’s hotspots. Just a few months ago, I reported on the parklet project prototyped by the Fabulous Fort initiative, a truly progressive and exciting idea for our downtown streets. The excellent Crust Bakery has been open for about a year now and, replete with an always quick-selling supply of “cronuts,” has quickly become a modern Victoria classic. Meanwhile, one of the best used book stores in the country—Russell Books— steams along, while Chorizo and Fishhook offer exceptional lunch options, and Choux Choux houses possibly the city’s finest butcher, Luke Young. It’s all excellent stuff and now another British Columbia culinary icon has just opened up shop on 787 Fort St.: Tacofino. You’ve probably come across, or at least heard about, Tacofino in its food-truck form. For two summers and two winters, it was housed on Douglas and Pandora. The whole Tacofino history extends far beyond Victoria, however; the first truck opened up in Tofino five years ago, and the operation quickly spread to Vancouver, Kelowna and downtown Victoria. Tacofino’s new storefront location on Fort and Blanshard is the operation’s second storefront, with Tacofino Commissary opening on East Hastings Street in Vancouver to critical acclaim in

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2013. Given that menus between specific Tacofino truck locations and the Commissary vary, Tacofino part-owner Josh Carleson and the Fort Street crew have assembled a kind of “best of” selection of Tacofino offerings. If the menu’s selections of tacos, burritos and tortilla soup appear traditional, Carleson is quick to point out that authentic Mexican cuisine is not necessarily what Tacofino is all about: “We really welcome the influence of where we are, British Columbia. So there’s a lot of Asian cuisine that we incorporate into our food. Our tuna taco, for instance, has wasabi mayo, pickled ginger and wakame. Same with our beef—picked daikon, pickled carrot, sirrachi mayo—little things like that pop up a lot in our food.” I popped in for a taco and chat on a rainy afternoon and, despite the dreary weather, the place was packed and brightly lit. While the space is on the small side, it’s riddled with elegant aesthetic details. The bright colour scheme, plants, skylights and tiled counters give a fresh, almost greenhouse-ish vibe. I sampled the tuna taco ($6.50). This is a much larger taco than one would normally expect, making for a really great light lunch. My taco was, in short, top drawer. A beautifully grilled tortilla housed a generous slice of beautifully rare and just-a-bit-

EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

on-the-fatty-side tuna—the texture was perfect. The wakame salad added freshness and crunch without excess brininess, while the pickled ginger and wasabi mayo added a good degree of nuanced heat. I’m a bit of a spice fiend, so a little more in the wasabi department would have been welcome in my books, but that’s subjective. I recently sampled the fish burrito ($11), and it was everything a burrito should be: big, saucy, meaty and surprisingly complex. The taco list is pretty extensive, and some fascinating specials look to be in the works (braised duck tacos have been known to happen, while an oilpoached octopus taco is currently in development), so I’m definitely looking forward to sampling the rest of the lineup. While Tacofino is not yet licensed, Carleson and his crew are working on it, so look for local beers, margaritas and tequila Caesars in the future. This was my first visit to Tacofino, but I’d heard the hype—as a burrito lover, my friends were shocked that I hadn’t made it to the yyj truck. With so much hype, it’s rare that a place actually stacks up to the fanfare. True, I’ve yet to profoundly delve into the menu here but, so far, I truly believe the hype. E BY JONATHAN JOHNSON


EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:34 AM Page 15

La Stella Trattoria #1-321 Wesley St. | Nanaimo | 778-441-4668 | lastellatrattoria.com

Shelroa Sheldan

left: Chef Ryan Zuvich in his new restaurant. right: La Stella’s signature pie A trattoria, in the truest sense of the word, is a casual neighbourhood place to enjoy simple, straight-ahead Italian food. So it is with La Stella Trattoria, chef Ryan Zuvich’s latest eatery, which opened in Nanaimo’s Old Town Quarter in November. A wood-fired oven, the city’s first, is the anchor for the 46-seat space and a menu of Napoli-style pizzas, classic Italian appetizers, salads and housemade pastas envisioned through a local-seasonal lens. Zuvich, who has already enjoyed a successful five years at his North Nanaimo digs—first with Markt Artisan Deli, where he created an astonishing array of sausages, preserves and charcuterie, and then as the elegant Hilltop Bistro, with his ever-changing French-flair menu—was ready to take on a new project. “It’s been in the back of my mind to be a multiple restaurant owner,” admits the ambitious 35-yearold. “This style of food speaks to me—and the location is great!” The delicious concept works extra magic enticing diners away from the strip malls and back to the Harbour City’s charming historic and walkable downtown. The space, nestled on a tree-lined street, was once home to Gaetan Brousseau’s Wesley Street Café and experienced a few short-lived tenants before Zuvich decided to take it on. After a two-month renovation, the space has been opened up, taking advantage of the natural window light and giving more definition to the room. Hand-painted murals based on vintage Italian aperitif posters provide some colour along with the original tomato-red ceiling. But the scene stealer is the 5,200-pound hive-like oven. For the best view, grab seats around the reclaimed wood bar to view the gorgeous tile and brick behemoth, fed by alder and maple, and watch the pizzaioli in action. The dough, a mix of flours treated to a three-day ferment, achieves the right amount of wood-fired char on the pies, with that bubbly crust and great chew. Starters include hearty tomato-braised meatballs (polpette) and kale Caesar salad, or just dig into the seven styles of pizza on offer: from a classic Margarita with fior de latte, tomato and basil, to an adventurous Neapolitana with tomato sauce, garlic, anchovies and oregano. My husband and I shared the funghi, a mix of four mushrooms with a rich béchamel, Parmesan and fontina, topped with a tangle of vibrant arugula. We also sampled the Calabrese, La Stella’s signature pie, with the house tomato sauce, handmade soppressata, red onion, bocconcini, basil and a spark of chile, with an egg cracked into the middle before baking at 900 degrees. Both were luscious, full-flavoured and ample for four (or two hungry people!). Out of the starting gate, three housemade pastas are on offer, including a seasonal roasted squash agnolotti over braised kale, with hazelnuts for crunch and a citrus brown butter for a rich and decadent finish. Libations include a “cheap and cheerful” Italian wine list rounded out by a handful of European and Vancouver Island craft brews. Judging from the packed house the first week we visited, this style of food speaks not only to Zuvich but also says “molto bene” to the Harbour City. E BY SHELORA SHELDAN

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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Greener Grocers Victoria is blessed with a selection of small and mid-sized, locally stocked grocery stores. —By Joseph Blake

Rebecca Wellman

Root Cellar owner Daisy Orser and one of her 'managers of everything' Haley Ronda

Aubergine owner Leon Zetler

THERE WAS A TIME NOT LONG AGO when every neighbourhood had one. The supermarket thinned their ranks and with the rise of 24-hour convenience stores and big box shops stocked with grocery items, only the best corner locations survived. Some stores became specialists like Harry’s Flowers and Demitasse Bakery with its fabulous garden centre. But most corner stores just faded away. In the past five years, however, several small grocery stores supporting local growers, food artisans and producers have emerged in neighbourhoods throughout the city. These unique, idealism-driven enterprises join mid-sized grocers like Peppers, Root Cellar, Market On Yates and the Red Barn in selling local, organically grown food and ethical, ecological and sustainable products.

single-origin beans roasted seven days a week. We also carry Galloping Goose Sausage, Cowichan Bay Seafood, and pork, chicken and eggs from Omnivore Acres on the Saanich Peninsula.” McKimmie and Winchester opened Fairfield Market in 2011 and sold it to Polly Vaughan and Ralph Wimmer in 2013. “It was more of an all-purpose grocery when we bought it,” explained Vaughan between customers in the small, well-lit shop. “We’ve focused more on fresh, local produce, dairy and baked goods like gluten-free muffins. We have items like paletas (popcicles made by Victoria’s Kid Sister), kombucha from Saltspring and sauerkraut and kimchi from Culturalive on Salt Spring. We offer delicious prepared soup from Cosmo Meen at the Hot and Cold Café and Ruth & Dean, who also

“Food is the heart of the community, the building block,” “We’re in the business of relationships with small, local farmers,” explains Root Cellar’s co-owner Daisy Orser. “Even our Potting Shed nursery operation includes localgrown seedlings and organically grown plants. We support organic, local and B.C.-grown produce from our neighbour Galey Farms to lots of small farm operations. It’s a lot of work, but it’s worth it! We always have the first local strawberries of the season because one of our small, local farms brings them in.” Root Cellar offers lots of local cheese, Island-milled flour and Island-grown lentils. Their Chop Shop meat market is primarily supplied by Vancouver Island farms and other B.C. sources. Their meat is primarily pasture-raised, free-range or free-run and hormone and antibiotic-free. Market On Yates is another mid-sized grocery store with an extensive bulk bin section, lots of gluten-free products, daily soup and pasta takeout specials, and an acclaimed meat department with skilful, veteran butchers. They support local farmers with a large selections of fresh produce from Island farms and an equally large selection of cut flowers and plants in their nursery section. Jennifer McKimmie left her job as food and beverage manager at Fairmont Empress Hotel in 2009 to join her partner, winemaker Ken Winchester, in remaking Niagara Grocery. The James Bay store, founded in 1909, is Victoria’s oldest grocery. “Food is the heart of the community, the building block,” explained McKimmie. “We’ve evolved into a community grocer. Our focus is local first and food security. “We were the first store to carry sea salt from Vancouver Island Salt Co., and we also stock Denman Island Chocolate,” she tells me. “Our Mile 0 Coffee is organic, fair trade,

bring us amazing cakes. We have whole wheat flour and red lentils from Saanichton Farm and fresh fruit and vegetables from Kildara Farm and Beetnik Farm. We have potatoes, cabbage and beautiful shallots from Late Harvest Farm. Our number one goal is to link these local farmers with customers in our neighbourhood.” The Haultain neighbourhood’s Local General Store calls itself a “one-stop sustainable shop.” Opened in May 2013 by retired educators Chris and Alix Harvey, the Local General Store stocks bakery items from several local bakeries including Wild Fire, La Tana Italian Bakery, Moulin Vert and Frys, as well as gluten-free products from Origin Bakery. “We have lots of vegetarian and vegan products, bison from a farm in Black Creek, and other meats from Galloping Goose and The Whole Beast,” explained Chris Harvey. “We’re seeking to provide organic, locally grown, sustainably created food products, as well as ethically sourced household products, clothes and gifts.” South African-born Leon Zelter worked on his family farm in the Western Cape before moving to Canada where he worked in many facets of the food industry before opening Aubergine Specialty Foods in 2010. The little Fernwood grocery reflects Zelter’s African and Jewish heritage with kosher meats, blintzes and special holiday pastries as well as biltong (South African beef jerky) and boerewors (South African farmer’s sausage coils.) Parking is always an issue in Fernwood, but shoppers can use three designated spots behind the store. Peppers is a mid-sized grocery store in Cadboro Bay with a reputation for supporting local growers. Produce manager Luke Coles grew up on an Island farm, and it shows up

Continued on page 25

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Victoria’s premier farmers market

continues year-round Indoors

MSM Winter Market Nov-Apr, Saturdays, 10-noon With your favourite local organic farmers warm and dry in the

Garry Oak Room Moss St. Market

Parking off Thurlow, Sir James Douglas school parking lot. See website for details.

MossStreetMarket.com

TIME FLIES

WHEN YOU’RE HAVING FUN TEN YEARS AGO, VANCOUVER’S OWN CHEF ROB FEENIE WON IRON CHEF AMERICA

To commemorate the Battle Crab episode, Cactus Club Cafe is hosting an exclusive dinner where Chef Feenie will re-create his winning menu. Y O U C O U L D W I N A N I N V I TAT I O N AT C A C T U S C L U B C A F E . C O M

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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g EATING WELL FOR LESS

By Elizabeth Monk

From Grand to Modest Three very different places to eat well without chucking the budget.

The Pacific Restaurant Hotel Grand Pacific, 463 Belleville St., near Menzies, 250-380-4458 One of my favourite ways to experience a higher end restaurant is to visit it for lunch. The Pacific’s new daily lunch special means a dish that’s usually $19 on the regular lunch menu goes for $15, including tea, coffee or soda, if it’s the daily offering. And weekends are included in the deal. The big picture: eating at the Pacific means enjoying gracious service and beautiful plating in an elegant space overlooking the Inner Harbour—a dining experience rather than a quick bite. New chef Takumi Kitamua shares his Japanese heritage in the Sunday special of Japanese Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict. Salmon candied with brown sugar and sake and then smoked is placed on, not an English muffin, but a seared rice patty. A nori seaweed hollandaise is served on the side, and this generous plate includes delicious golden fried potatoes and artfully presented pickled Japanese vegetables. I hope I’m being clear here: $14 gets you a plain Benny and coffee at White Spot; a dollar more gets you salmon, sexy vegetables and the Inner Harbour at The Pacific. Thursday’s pasta of the day is much more exciting than it sounds. This could be anything, but mine was Italian Sausage Strozzapreti, made with a pasta type whose translation is “priest strangler.” Make of that what you will. This meaty dish was more like a stew clinging lovingly to the short, finger-like noodles. The sausage was rounded out with roasted sweet peppers, mushrooms, kalamata olives and shallots. Friday’s fish and chips have the crunchiest coating I’ve ever had thanks to the use of rice flour, and the ling cod flakes beautifully. The side is a light and summery lemon jicama slaw. The fish and chips also makes an appearance during another new special, the Early Bird Dinner between 4:30 and 6:00, with a choice of three entrees, a soup or salad, and a dessert for $16.95, again including coffee or tea. Dinner specials are offered off-season (every month except June to September), and the lunch special is year-round. E

Elizabeth Nyland

Elizabeth Nyland

left: Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict. above: Chef Takumi Kitamua putting the finishing touches on a dish in the kitchen of The Pacific Restaurant

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The Drake

517 Pandora Ave., near Wharf, 250-590-9075

Elizabeth Nyland

LOCAL FOOD, BEER, WINE & LIVE MUSIC AT 2 GREAT NEIGHBOURHOOD BISTROS! Cheese Steak Sandwich (Two Rivers roast beef, sautéed mushrooms, crispy onions, horseradish mayo & gouda) paired with Parallel 49 Old Boy Brown Ale Very new on the scene, The Drake, on the Pandora side of Market Square, is making a name for itself as an engaging, screen-free, fun place to try the 29 beers on tap and take part in the action that heats up after 3 p.m. But it has another persona: a quiet place to have a tasty lunch. Three dishes in particular caught my eye. They range from dainty to manly to inspired. Under “dainty” are the items under the unusual menu heading of “Toasts,” ranging from $5 to $8. Duck Salami Toast, Beet Pesto Toast and Smoked Sablefish Toast are just some examples. The latter is strips of the buttery fish on an olive tapenade on three three-inch fingers of toast. The server suggested a Cherry Hieter Phillips beer, which its smoky flavour, as a match. The fact that four-ounce tasters of all draft beers are available for $2 to $2.50 makes this an even more appealing lunch destination. For the manly, or just plain hungry, the Cheese Steak Bunwich is hearty and filling, with very juicy and tender roast beef. It is “upscaled” (my new verb) with sautéed mushrooms, Gouda cheese and crisped-up onions — a deal for $9. The most inspired item on the menu is Buffalo Flowers for $7, cauliflower substituted for chicken wings, spiced up in classic pub style and served with plenty of blue cheese dip. The space is large and L-shaped, with a wood bar saloon space and a living room area with velveteen sofas. I realize curvaceous sofas are meant to attract young hipsters; however, every time I see a sofa in a restaurant, I time-travel back 10 years and think “Great place to breastfeed!” Thanks to the spaciousness and the sofas, and the fact that you can get a pretzel for $5 and a warm potato side salad for $4, I’d personally be bringing the baby group here late morning, going home for naptime, commandeering a babysitter, and then going right back at 3:00 and getting groovy with the grown-ups while sampling West Coast beers. E

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CORNER OF CROFT & SIMCOE IN JAMES BAY WWW.HERONROCKBISTRO.CA

250-590-4556

4136 WILKINSON RD WWW.CROOKEDGOOSEBISTRO.CA

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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GRILLING is ALWAYS in season at Vista 18 Come and try our Fall + Winter grill menu.

250-382-9258

740 Burdett Ave, Inside the Chateau Victoria

VISTA18.COM

Elizabeth Nyland

BARDANDBANKER.COM | 250.953.9993 1022 GOVERNMENT STREET

Mincemeat tarts (with a dusting of sugar)

Lunn’s Pastries, Deli & Coffee Shop 2455 Beacon Ave., Sidney, 250-656-1724

FF

ry y e v E sda r Thu 20

Y A D IW N E

EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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WI TLES T BO

Thirty-seven years is plenty of time to perfect your pastry skills. Robert Lunn and Lunn’s Pastries, Deli & Coffee Shop have been a fixture in Sidney throughout, though he has expanded both shop and offerings during that time. The shop seems to spread out like an accordion. At first glimpse, there is the chocolate display (Lunn is a Swiss-trained chocolatier) then the pastries, the meat counter and—what’s this way at the back, hidden from the street view? A lunch counter, with prices that, like the shop, seem from another time. A small chicken curry pie is $2.80, a sausage roll is $1.99, and a Cornish pasty the size of a lady’s hand is $3.60. The Cornish pasty actually has chunks of top round beef, carrots and onion, unlike the more mysterious purees I’ve had in pasties before. All these pies have pastry worthy of a high-end restaurant, meaning dense enough to support the fillings but flaky enough to melt in your mouth. This attention to detail transfers to the pastries, which are both British and international. Mincemeat pies are featured year-round, and a lot of care goes into them, with ingredients like organic currants and raisins, hand-peeled Port Alberni apples and good old-fashioned beef suet. No preservatives, fillers or gels, unlike the more industrial ones you might have experienced. In fact, a look akin to horror appears on Mr. Lunn’s face at the thought of such desecration. The classic food offerings have stayed the same since the bakery opened. It looks as if the decor might have too, and the shop could use some updated chairs and tables to create some coziness. Kids will be very comfortable here—definitely an affordable family destination. E


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Ode to a Sausage Roll Adrien Sala discovers a new love for an old snack.

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Adrien Sala

The sausage roll at Roast Sandwich Shop in the Victoria Public Market hen I was a young man, I spent my time after school and on weekends working at a small grocery store. My domain there was meats and produce. Five days a week, I would come in and scrub the guts off meat blocks and bandsaws, slice bacon and stock the shelves with an apathetic teenage gusto. It wasn’t a very exciting job to be sure, but for a few hours every night I’d be left alone, free to sample anything that caught my interest. I made my way through most everything in the meat counter during my years there. Rotisserie chickens were a particular favourite, but the single item that sustained me most was definitely the sausage roll, which, if I remember correctly, we didn’t even make in-store. Back then, a sausage roll was something to be pitied. Made with below-average sausage and stacked one on top of the other on a Styrofoam tray, they would sit there weeping grease, limp and boring. When a customer would order one, we’d put them in a paper bag, which would instantly turn translucent from the pastry fat. But I was a teenager and knew nothing of good food. I’d pop mine into the microwave for a minute, which would render it even more weepy. But it didn’t matter. With a bit of mustard, it was a meal. Until recently, that’s what I thought sausage rolls were: a crappy small town snack that no one with an interest in food could possibly enjoy. They were in my past and I was OK with that. But then I started to hear about a few local bakeries and restaurants making them. And not just average eateries. Good ones. And then it wasn’t just a few—it was a lot. Suddenly, everybody seemed to be doing one. The first one I heard of was from Roast, in the Hudson Market, where they hand make them fresh every day. At $3.75, they usually sell out fast, I was told. So I went to investigate—and what a revelation. Baked in flaky puff pastry, the sausage is a blend of porchetta and beef, with fennel seeds, oregano and some other spices. Unlike the wimpy sausage rolls of my youth, Roast’s are firm and very not greasy. I knocked back two that day, and after 17 years since my last love affair with them, I was back. This time, though, I am a much more sophisticated sausage-roll lover. With variety being the spice of life, I sought out more. Fol Epi does theirs with a pork sausage, spiked with apples and rosemary for $5. Fry’s Red Wheat Bread Bakery uses mutton from Metchosin and sells them for $3.50. On Fort Street alone, Crust Bakery, the Dutch Bakery and Choux Choux Charcuterie all do them, as do countless other independent cafés and bakeries around town. What I’ve learned is that sausage rolls needn’t be a greasy gut-bomb of a snack. In fact, I had one for breakfast today (under the auspices of “research,” of course) and I’m feeling pretty good about it. For fans of pastry and meat, they’re the perfect blend of both. Portable, inexpensive and a perfect size to eliminate hunger without making you fooddrowsy, it’s no wonder they are experiencing a renaissance. Truth be told, though, I still like mine with mustard—but the good kind. E

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www.CulinaireVictoria.com www.CulinaireVictoria.com


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Not for the faint of heart,

nose-to-tail preparing, cooking

and eating is a

labour of love

—and guts.

Staff member Matthew Floesser ay The Village Butcher with a fresh pork kidney

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THE VERSATILE PIG Text by Simon Nattrass Photos by Rebecca Wellman

ike many folks, I like to know where my food comes from. My desire for ultra-slow nourishment involves such back-in-vogue things as buying in bulk from local farmers and preserving for the winter. But for me there can never be few enough hands for my foodstuffs to pass through. Today, this philosophy lands me here, watching two muddy black pigs from Denman Island rooting through a pile of apples near a friend’s garden where we’re raising them for our winter’s meat. This, I can tell you, swells a slow-food lover’s heart. However, my glee is tempered when I recall the words of Evelyn Pereira, fellow pig farmer and co-owner of Terra Nossa farm in Saanich. “If I’m going to take the life of an animal, I want to be sure I’m using every part.” Pereira’s words don’t necessarily bring down my mood, but they do highlight a gap in my (and many other folks’) knowledge. As I picture myself in late December, three hundred pounds of fresh meat, fat, offal, blood and bone to deal with, I realize that my life of bacon and barbecued pork has left me woefully unprepared for the task ahead. Pork has long been a mainstay of British and continental European cooking, and consequently pigs were a regular feature of early settler life. They cleared land with their endless rooting for wild food, and they provided an astonishing range of household staples. The old saying “you can use every part of a pig but the squeal” reveals just how versatile the flesh and bones of the pig can be, and while bristle brushes and plowed fields might be some of the more unique gifts pigs have given to traditional farmers, food was and is the lion’s share of this animal’s wealth. Which brings me back to my dilemma. If pork products were such a staple in farm kitchens for so many years, why are grocery store shelves lined with chops, ham, bacon, and ribs—all taken from the muscle meat of the pig? More important, why is my cultural knowledge, once so rich and varied, now so dismal when it comes to this most generous of animals? In terms of sheer volume, fat is a close second to muscle in most pigs and makes a good starting point. While some gets mixed into ground pork and sausage or boxed up as shortening, pork fat has fallen by the wayside in recent, more fat-phobic decades. This, if you ask me, is a catastrophe. For the old farm kitchen, fat—mostly in the form of lard and suet—was truly one of the best reasons to raise hogs. Families would render several gallons of lard every winter for baking and frying, and to make variations on the French confit. Suet—usually the flaky, delicately flavoured fat from around the organs and used raw rather than rendered—remains an integral ingredient in traditional British Christmas puddings and mincemeat. In my kitchen, there is no option other than homerendered pork lard when it comes to baking powder biscuits and pastry, and quick-cured pork confit is a favourite way to both preserve and improve upon cuts of meat that would otherwise be good for little else but the grinder.

L

CHARCUTERIE Fresh meat and fat are certainly to be treasured, but the sudden bounty of the year’s slaughter yields far more than any individual or family can eat before spoilage takes its course. Thankfully, this situation has traditionally given rise to a vast array of cured pork. Most of us are familiar with a range of charcuterie: salami, prosciutto and mortadella have edged out hot dogs and baloney from many North American kitchens, while ham and bacon have never fallen out of favour. Cured meats, however, have been pared down along with the rest of the pork on grocery store shelves until only a shadow of the former variety and flavour remains. By no means limited to bacon and ham, curing has been a family art for generations, and the basic dry cure—salt and spices rubbed onto meat and left to stand for anywhere from 24 hours to several weeks—is a

central component of many traditional recipes. One of the simplest of these is salt pork. Often used in British cuisine, heavily salted chunks of usually fatty meat (made from the same cuts as bacon but a far cry from anything available in most grocery stores) often formed the basis of soups and stews along with a few caramelized onions and savoury herbs. Sweet baked beans with molasses, sweet onions and salt pork is also a country classic. Petit salé aux lentilles, a French take on salt pork, consists of lightly salted pork boiled with vegetable trimmings to make a broth and served with lentils, broth and a thick slice of the boiled pork. Now a frequent item on restaurant menus, confit also began as a way to preserve meat during the colder months. Traditional French confit uses the meat and fat from waterfowl, but the basic technique—dry-cured meat poached in fat, then allowed to cool until the fat forms an airtight seal—has been used by many cultures for many different meats. Because of its French origins, confit is most often associated with duck, but pork (and other meats, of course) lends itself particularly well to this method of preservation. If you happen to have a few cups of lard handy, Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn include two recipes for pork confit in their informative book Charcuterie. During their homage to sausage and the pig, Charcuterie’s authors briefly acknowledge that some factory-made sausages “can be quite good,” but the book (unsurprisingly) places homemade and artisan sausage as the benchmark against which all others must be measured. Laurie Munn, chef at Cafe Brio, agrees. “I think that something you would make for yourself is inherently better because you’re using higher quality ingredients than what’s in the factory.” Munn also values sausage for its versatility; for fresh sausage, Cafe Brio uses shoulder meat and the trimmings from their on-site butchering, along with whatever fresh herbs and spices look good that day. “It’s pretty much a blank slate.” Of course, sausage often winds up being preserved, and like mortadella before it, proper dried sausage has been nearly eradicated by shelf-stable pepperoni and pre-sliced salami. Corey Pelan has built his life around curing meats, and his store The Whole Beast stocks around eight different varieties of dried sausage at any given time. Among the various cured meats available at The Whole Beast is one of my favourites, traditional fermented sausage, which takes on a sour flavour thanks to bacterial cultures introduced before aging. Because of regulations, Pelan uses a freeze-dried culture, but he says traditionally butchers would have kept a small amount of each batch of meat to mix in with the next batch, preserving the same culture for years. This sausage is perfect on a sour appetizer board with fermented pickles, olives and a sweet, soft cheese like the garlic chèvre from Salt Spring Island Cheese. OFFAL While I’ve spent a good portion of my time here lamenting the lost arts and flavours of pork past, it would be unfair to declare an end to appreciation for the noble swine. For over a decade, the restaurant world has seen a huge influx of fresh, local, whole pigs. Many local establishments bring in whole or half pigs and do their own butchering and curing on-site, and some chefs have taken such opportunities to play with offal, creating some of the more inventive menu items available around town. In Vancouver, Campagnolo Roma serves a special dinner of offal, inspired by traditional Roman dishes using the “Fifth Quarter,” the meat left over after choice cuts had been handed out. Past dinners at the East Hastings establishment have included grilled medium-rare pig’s heart with peach salad, stuffed trotters with pigskin sausage, and pig’s brain risotto. Campagnolo also incorporates offal into its regular menu, such as the signature Crown Bacon, made from the whole head of a pig, braised and completely de-boned. The next Fifth Quarter dinner is scheduled for February. Cont’d on the next page

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Cory Pelan and his blood sausage (aka black pudding) at The Whole Beast

Locally, Cafe Brio serves cured pig’s ears poached in stock for three days until a rich, jelly-like consistency with “just a little snap” is reached. The ears are served layered with other meats in a chilled terrine. At various times, the ever-changing menu at Cafe Brio has also featured sweetbreads, heart, liver and kidneys. In the public consciousness, offal seems to leap between extremes. On the one hand is the gourmet and often complex, and on the other the “boil for 30 minutes and serve” technique that is arguably responsible for much of our cultural fear of organ meats. However, a few simple rules can help any of us prepare simple yet delicious organ meats. Charcutier and chef Corey Pelan suggests treating soft organs such as sweetbreads, liver and kidneys like you would halibut or another delicate fish. Heart can be served grilled if medium-rare, but this and other tough cuts like tongue respond well to braising. Of course, there are also recipes to help us along. Charcuterie includes several recipes for pâté with varying levels of complexity and ratios of organ to meat, all of which are a great way to ease into both cooking and eating offal. Another simple recipe, Berlin-style liver, consists of seared liver served with cooked apples and caramelized onions, often accompanied by potatoes. In the end, there has been consensus among the folks I’ve spoken to on this topic. The reason why our knowledge and appreciation of pork is so limited isn’t practical, it’s cultural. “I think it’s essential for all of us here in North America to start changing our eating habits,” says Michael Windle, co-owner of the Village Butcher. “We’ve really gotten on the wrong track in the last 50 or 60 years. While the family pig may have fallen behind in the race for greater homogeneity and efficiency, my pigs and those living on small, local farms or sitting in the window of the local butcher or charcutier keep those traditions alive as long as we honour them to the last morsel.

What It Is and Where to Get It Salt Pork and Lard Salt pork is the cured fat from the belly or back of the hog and is used primarily to flavour dishes such as stews or baked beans. But it can also be used like bacon. A dry, spiced Italian version is pancetta. Lard is rendered pork fat, similar to clarified butter and used in frying, confit and in place of shortening in any recipe. Salt pork and pancetta are available from The Whole Beast, and lard from Terra Nossa Farm. Fresh fat for home-rendering lard is available from the Village Butcher and Terra Nossa Farm. Sweetbreads Any of the large glands from a young animal, named after their delicate, almost sweet flavour. Great dredged in flour and quickly fried. Available upon request from The Whole Beast and Village Butcher, as well as seasonally on the menu at Cafe Brio. Tough Cuts Heart can be grilled if served medium-rare, but overcooking quickly turns the meat tough. Heart, tongue and skirt meat all respond well to braising and prepared that way are a great addition to tacos or cold in sandwiches. Available at Village Butcher and cured at The Whole Beast.

Stuffed pork trotter stuffed with truffles and foie gras; pine mushrooms & roasted and pureed celery root at Cafe Brio

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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

Liver and Kidneys Both should be treated like delicate fish and cooked until just done. Liver is simple to prepare and a great way to ease into offal, especially for kids. Kidneys must be soaked in milk or salt water for at least several hours prior to cooking. Available at most small-scale butchers. Bones A byproduct of most any butchering, bones can be boiled to loosen remaining meat and make a nourishing soup stock. Marrow, the soft tissue inside bones, is highly nutritious and can be removed from cooked bones with a skewer and eaten on the spot. Blood, brains and intestines Difficult to prepare and even more difficult to find, these bits that most people would prefer to avoid are nevertheless heartily recommended. Congealed blood can be fried to form a liver-like dish or as an ingredient in traditional blood puddings. Brains can be pureed and scrambled with eggs or in risotto. A traditional preparation for intestines calls for them to be wrapped around caul fat (the fatty, web-like membrane encasing an animal’s internal organs), skewered and grilled.

The Whole Beast

Terra Nossa Farm

2032 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria 250-590-7675

765 Kilmalu Rd., Mill Bay, 250-743-7484

The Village Butcher

Campagnolo Roma

2032 Oak Bay Ave., Victoria, 250-598-1115

2297 E. Hastings St., Vancouver, 604-569-0456

Cafe Brio

Choux Choux Charcuterie

944 Fort St., Victoria, 250-383-0009

830 Fort Street, Victoria, 250-382-7572


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Greener Grocers continued from page 16 in his thoughts on supporting locals. “We recycle all of our produce department’s compost for my folks’ pigs and a neighbour’s chickens. My goal is always to support local organic farmers like Guite Farm, Gobind Farm, Sol Farm and Oldfield Orchards. From May to October I carry amazing, pesticide-free tomatoes from Glanford Greenhouses, a local, second-generation family farm. We carry certified organic kale from Vantreight Farms and Specialty Microgreens products all year. In February, I’ll get kiwi from a local guy. I buy from lots of little operations like that.” The Red Barn now has four locations, but the original opened more than a decade ago on West Saanich Road and remains a favourite for its extensive offering of local produce, an acclaimed hormone and steroid-free butcher shop featuring Red Barn’s own smoked goods (particularly their double-smoked bacon!), and the Barn’s housemade sandwiches. Is there anything better than picnic sandwiches at one of the Red Barn’s tables overlooking Saanich Peninsula farmland? Don’t forget to order an ice cream cone for dessert. Now, in the deep of winter, the memory of that summer picnic warms me and makes me grateful for all the efforts of Victoria’s new neighbourhood grocers.

Rebecca Wellman

Red Barn co-owner Russ Benwell (one of four owners)

Aubergine Specialty Foods, 1308 Gladstone Ave., 250-590-1031 Fairfield Market, 1275 Oscar St., 250-590-1772 Local General Store, 1440 Haultain St., 778-265-6225 Market On Yates, 903 Yates St., 250-381-6000 Niagara Grocery, 579 Niagara St., 250-383-1223 Peppers Food, 3829 Cadboro Bay Rd., 250-477-6513 The Red Barn, 5550 West Saanich Rd., 250-479-8349 The Root Cellar, 1286 McKenzie Ave., 250-477-9495

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g LOCAL KITCHEN

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EAT MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014


EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:35 AM Page 27

N

Eat Me First Made with butternut squash, it’s easy to convince yourself these are good for you! For best results, be sure the squash is really dry and dense, not liquidy. If needed, reduce extra moisture by sautéing squash in a frying pan over low heat. Also great with canned pumpkin.

What’s Up Butternut? Cupcakes 1 Cupcakes 1 cup pureed butternut squash ½ cup canola oil ½ cup each granulated and lightly packed brown sugar ¼ cup milk 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 1/13 cup flour ½ tsp each baking powder and baking soda 1 tsp grated orange peel 1 tsp pumpkin pie spice 1 tsp ground cardamom Pinch of sea salt Awesome Coconut Icing 2 - 400 ml cans unsweetened coconut milk 1 cup butter, at room temperature 21/2 cups powdered sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract Pinch of sea salt 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut, lightly toasted

2 3 4

Fill a muffin pan with paper cups and preheat oven to 350F.

In a bowl, stir 1 cup pureed butternut squash with ½ cup canola oil, ½ cup each lightly packed brown and granulated sugar, ¼ cup milk and 1 tsp vanilla extract. Sift in 1 1/3 cups flour, ½ tsp each baking soda and baking powder. Add 1 Tbsp pumpkin pie spice mix and 1 tsp grated orange peel. Stir just until blended. Don’t over mix.

Spoon into cups, filling 2/3 full. Bake until golden and a toothpick inserted in centre comes out clean, 20 to 25 min.

Meanwhile, boil 2 cans coconut milk in a large deep saucepan. Be warned: it’ll bubble up like the dickens at first – hence the large pan. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until reduced to about 1 cup. This may take 25 to 35 min, depending on size of pan. Cool completely (if making ahead, refrigerate overnight)

5

Using an electric mixer, beat 1 cup room temperature butter until fluffy. Beat in 2½ cups powdered sugar, then ½ cup cool coconut milk, 1 tsp vanilla and a pinch of salt. Beat until blended, occasionally scraping down sides. Increase speed to high and beat until light and fluffy. If needed, refrigerate to firm slightly.

6

Dollop over cupcakes or fill a piping bag and pipe swirls overtop. Sprinkle with pinches of toasted coconut. Top with fondant circles and fun words, if you wish. Makes 12 cupcakes

TIP: use up leftover reduced coconut milk in pasta sauces, soups or stir into tea or coffee.

Text, recipes by JENNIFER DANTER Food styling by JENNIFER DANTER & JORDANNA REID Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY Art Direction by JENNIFER DANTER & GARY HYNES www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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g COVER RECIPE

Blend the soothing comfort of “nona” approved meatballs with the fiery fusion flavours of curry. Set the comfort food dial to high and dish up with soft polenta for that happy belly feeling.

Text, recipe and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY Art Direction by JENNIFER DANTER & GARY HYNES

Great Balls of Fire Masala Lamb Meatballs Sauce 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 onion, chopped 1 Tbsp grated fresh ginger ¼ cup vegetable oil 1 Tbsp cumin seeds 28-oz can plum tomatoes 1 Tbsp garam masala 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp sea salt

Meatballs 2 green onions, chopped 2 egg yolks 1 slice white bread, crusts trimmed, torn into small pieces ¼ cup table cream 2 lbs ground lamb 1 tsp each fennel seeds and ground cumin ½ tsp each ground cinnamon and sea salt Fresh mint (optional) Feta cheese (optional)

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Oh yeah! Classic comfort food with a heated twist. A little spice and alotta big bold flavour.

1

2 3

4 5

In a food processor, whirl 3 garlic cloves, with 1 chopped onion and 1 Tbsp grated fresh ginger until well chopped and almost purred. Heat ¼ cup oil in Dutch oven set over medium heat. Add 1 Tbsp cumin seeds. Heat until they start to sizzle, then add onion mixture. Stir often until mixture softens and is translucent. Reduce heat to medium-low to prevent browning, if needed. This may take 8 to 10 min. Meanwhile, puree canned plum tomatoes with 1 Tbsp garam masala and 1 tsp each turmeric, cayenne and salt. Pour into pan with onions. Stir in 1 cup water. Simmer 20 minutes to blend flavours. If making ahead, cover and refrigerate up to 3 days or freeze up to 3 months. For the meatballs, in a food processor whirl 2 chopped greens onions with 2 egg yolks, 1 slice bread (torn into small pieces) and ¼ cup table cream until well pureed. Turn into a large bowl and add 2 lbs ground lamb, 1 Tbsp each fennel seeds, ground cumin and cinnamon. Add a pinch of salt too. Gently mix until blended, then shape into balls: aim for a chubby golf ball size. Makes about 18 to 20 meatballs. Space meatballs out on a baking sheet brushed with oil. Broil until browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to 375F. Add meatballs to sauce in Dutch oven. Cover and bake until sauce is bubbly and meatballs are cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Finish with fresh mint and crumbled feta, if you wish. Serve with bowls of soft polenta. Serves 4 to 6


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g COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH By Shawn Soole

Toddies

WITH CHRISTMAS, NEW YEAR’S EVE and the overindulging season over for most of us. It's time to enjoy the remnants of winter in BC without the headache of shopping, family and stress of what to do on December 31. Toddies are the best way to enjoy a simple, hot drink to take the chill out of your bones and restore some vitality to your body. The word Toddy is said to be from the toddy drink in India, a drink fermented from palm tree sap. The word may have made its way to Scotland by way of a member of the East India Trading Company. Toddies in general are liquor, sweetener, spices and maybe a spot of citrus topped with hot water. Victoria Moore from How to Drink describes it as "the vitamin C for health, the honey to soothe, the alcohol to numb." In this wonderful cocktail world of substitutions and slight changes, it's open season. The toddy listed below is something of a double-edged sword for many occasions. The rum, of course, is warming, rich and will revitalise you "spiritually". The Aperol, an Italian bitters with a strong bitter orange flavour, will help you through any after holiday feast you may have with family and friends. And finally, the mix of spiced honey, lemon and the Silk Road Spicy Mandarin Tea makes the "healing" benefits of a toddy complete. With all the entertaining you probably have done over the season, you may have a myriad of spirits, mixers, sweeteners, gifts of tea and so on. If you keep the very simple rules of spirit (2 parts), sweetener (1/2 - 3/4 parts), citrus (1 parts) & hot liquid to top up with in a snifter glass and the possibilities are endless. You can also make it in a thermos for a nice hike into the mountains, do a batch for entertaining friends or just a cup or two for you and your love on a quiet, cold evening.

Salmon, Halibut, and Crab Fishing, Surfing, Scuba Diving, Whale-watching, Kiteboarding, Kayaking, Biking, Sailing, Zip-Lining, Living, Smiling...

Your Recipe for Adventure...

1528 Whiffen Spit Road, Sooke, BC Tel: 250-642-3421

HOTELGRANDPACIFIC.COM | 250.380.4458 |

FIND US ON

West Coast Afternoon Tea. A unique dining experience. Not just a grand hotel, a great hotel.

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To Make Toddy Ingredients: ½ oz. All Spice Honey mixture 1½ oz. dark rum (Havana Club 7-year) 1 oz. Aperol ¾ oz. lemon juice, freshly squeezed Silk Road Spicy Mandarin Tea Use first 4 ingredients and build in a snifter glass with a cinnamon stick and a lemon twist. Top with the hot, brewed Silk Road Spicy Mandarin Black Tea (silkroadteastore.com)

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TEA-totaller Hot Toddy All Spice Honey 100 ml (3.5 oz.) quality local honey 100 ml (3.5 oz.) hot water 24 all spice berries, lightly crushed Mix all the ingredients together in a mason jar, shake and let infuse over a few days. When infused strain to remove the all spice berries and reserve.

Always fresh, our afternoon tea pairs Asian influences with local, seasonal ingredients. Try one or all of our single-estate teas and blends. Served daily in The Pacific Restaurant from 2:00pm - 4:30pm. Reservations are required; please call 250-380-4458. ® Hotel Grand Pacific 463 Belleville Street, Victoria BC, V8V 1X3 | Member of Preferred Hotels® & Resorts

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g VINCABULARY By Treve Ring

Sémillon

{SEMM-ee-yohn}

T

hough sémillon changes dramatically from youth through twilight, it always carries itself with an air of nobility. With berries of golden rose, young sémillon shows bright, sometimes racy acidity, citrus and hay/herb notes. With bottle age, these wines tend to fatness, with a waxy, honeyed heft that gains weight and complexity. The early-ripening, thin-skinned grape is highly susceptible to rot, making it one of the most desirable to establish botrytis (noble rot) affected wines. It is one of the major grapes in the exalted sweet wines of Bordeaux Sauternes. However, sémillon is relatively rare today. After a blaze of popularity (it was one of the most planted white grapes in the world), it has fallen out of fashion, making finding a pure sémillon a challenge. Australia, especially in the Hunter Valley, is the rare exception, producing brilliant, age-worthy sémillons that compete with the top wines in the world. Noble, indeed.

award-winning, innovative, island-sourced cuisine fisgard str eet, victoria 509 fisgard street, ulla.ca

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Bartier Bros. Sémillon 2013 Okanagan Valley, BC *$20 +487900 Fantastic texture for such a youthful wine (Bartier’s sems gain complexity quickly with bottle age). Flush with youth and herbal apricot, white peach, wildflowers, sea buckthorn and fine spice lifted with shining acidity and through suprising length. 89 points.

Signorello Seta 2011 Napa Valley, California, USA $50 +578633 This is a showy, rich, full-bodied and positively ballsy Napa white that works. Ripe, creamy sémillon plays with the bright tropical melon fruit of sauvignon blanc, resulting in cashews, waxy figs, honey and perfumed vanillan spice that carry through a long finish. 89 points.

HONEYED

VIVID

L’Ecole No. 41 Sémillon 2011 Columbia Valley, Washington State, USA *$28 +74518 Just a shadow of age has revealed alluring mature notes of honeycomb and pistachio, scented apricot blossom and lemon pith, and herbal, earthy lees across a subtly waxy, full bodied palate. Fluid acidity carries into a lovely lengthy finish. 90 points.

Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Sémillon 2005 Hunter Valley, New South Wales, Australia *$60.00 +192989 Beautiful to taste with nearly a decade of time, and from a very good vintage. Intent eraser and struck stone to open. Evolved, heady notes of honeycomb, chamomile, nuts, lime pith, biscuit and seashell stream through the intense palate. Acidity has focus, palate has breadth and the finish is long. 93 points.

INTENSE De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Sémillon 2010 New South Wales, Australia *$35 (375ml) +554766 Concentrated, pure and persistent notes of eraser, honeycomb, beeswax, apricot paste, green fig, tangerine, candied lime peel and smoked stone. Rich and unctuous across the palate, with tactile layers of herbal syrup and honeyed intrigue. Length for days. One of the iconic sweet wines of the world. 94 points.

PROPER Chateau Armajan des Ormes Sauternes 2009 Bordeaux, France $30 (375ml) +147090 Candied lemon peel and crystalline ginger aromas lure to a pretty, juicy palate of honey, marmalade, apricot jam, dried peach and finely grated dried coconut on the lingering finish. Sémillon is joined by sauvignon blanc and muscadelle, as is common in Sauternes. 90 points.

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.

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g A BEER AND A BITE By Colin Hynes

Colin Hynes

BOTTLE ROCKET - INDIA SESSION ALE with Healthy Asian-Inspired Salad for the New Year

The Beer: Phillips - Bottle Rocket ISA (Victoria, BC) This is a beer that you can enjoy year round. In the summer, with its full hop flavour, it’s a beer to cool you down; in the winter (especially after December 25th) it’s a clean and refreshing drink after all the holiday excesses. Since this is an “India session ale”, expect high hop flavours—pines, citrus, etc.—and very drinkable at 5% alcohol. 6-pack cans +200303 phillipsbeer.com The Bite:

The Conclusion: If you can handle a drink after the holiday festivities, grab a hoppy beer (like Bottle Rocket) and a salad that has a little bit of heat. The full hop of an ISA or IPA will allow the intensity of the dressing in the salad to become a bit tamer, without losing the flavour.

Healthy Asian-Inspired Spicy Salad for the New Year Once January 1st hits, a lot of people scramble to make “the healthy choice” when it comes to their diet. I don’t blame them, either, after turkeys, slow roasts, and desserts aplenty, it can be hard to think of anything but lighter meals. I tend to gravitate to different types of salads. I personally don’t enjoy a boring salad, so mine are usually jam-packed with stuff. Then I make a dressing that kicks you in the face with spice! For this salad I channeled Asian inspirations with vermicelli rice noodles and a sesame oil dressing.

New Tonic Water Hits the Streets One thing you can say about Matt Phillips is he’s always pushing the envelope. To go along with the release of Phillips Brewery’s new Stump Coastal Forest Gin (available in select cocktail bars), four hand-crafted tonic waters were designed to highlight the new gin: Artisanal Dry (white grape juice, lime peel and quinine), Cucumber Mint, Philosopher’s Brew (lavender, rosehip, lemongrass and orange peel) and Botanical Brew. Available in 4-packs at private liquor stores and at the brewery.

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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g TERROIR

By Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris

Waiting for Bordeaux

This cellar (and stellar) classic rewards those who delay gratification.

WE LIVE IN A WORLD OF IMMEDIATE GRATIFICATION. Even in the realm of wine, the majority of bottles are consumed within hours of purchase. Why wait, you might ask? While most wines are meant to be enjoyed when young and fresh, some rare gems actually deserve patience. These treasures display depth and layers of complexity that can only be gained with time. Beyond a beverage, they become time capsules that will transport you to another era when finally released from the bottle. The epitome of this is the wines from Bordeaux. There is no region more represented in the cellar than Bordeaux. These wines have proven time and time again that they have the capacity to age, especially in great vintages. When Mother Nature is on the Bordelais’ side, the rain holds off until after harvest and a long autumn allows the grapes to ripen fully. Perfect weather conditions lend the wines an extraordinary balance of fruit concentration and structure that will see them through the long haul. Recent examples are the 2009 and 2010 vintages. The term Bordeaux refers to wines made from two of the world’s most popular red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Here, one or the other dominates the blend, depending on what area the wine comes from. Bordeaux is divided broadly into two by the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, which flow into the Gironde as it makes its way to the Atlantic Ocean. The warmer, well-drained gravel soils of the Left Bank tend to feature Cabernet Sauvignon. These are the most structured and tannic Bordeaux that have the genes to go the distance. Left Bank sub-regions include Haut-Médoc and the communes of Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux and Pessac-Léognan. Wines from these appellations are the most expensive and long-lived with lots of black cassis fruit and toasty, smoky notes when they are young. The cooler clay-based soils of the Right Bank favour Merlot, giving lusher, plumper wines with rich plum and spice flavours. Though they generally mature earlier than their Left Bank brethren, they are still very cellar-worthy. Here Saint-Émilion and Pomerol are the names to look for at the top end. On either side of the river, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot may also be helped out by smaller portions of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, each contributing a unique dimension. Cabernet Franc adds a lifted fragrance, Petit Verdot gives exotic spice and Malbec interjects dark liquorice notes. As the best Bordeaux age, they soften and lose their fierce tannin. Besides becoming friendlier, they take on complex leathery, sweet tobacco, dried fruit and coffee notes. But even then, these mature bottles show best at the dinner table, especially with meat. Whether you choose steak, lamb or veal, add some mushrooms to the plate. These earthy nuggets are a brilliant partner, creating a bridge to the savoury, developed flavours of the wine. The single greatest wine experience we have had to date was tasting 13 of the top wines from Bordeaux’s illustrious 1982 vintage side by side. Opportunities to try such wines are extremely rare and believe us, we realize just how lucky we are. This was only possible through the extreme generosity of collectors who purchased these bottles upon release when prices were still reasonable. While the once amazing Cheval Blanc admittedly had seen better days, it was surprising how many of the wines seemed to just be reaching their peak. Pichon-Lalande, Ausone, Le Pin and Lafite in particular were drinking beautifully! La Mission Haut-Brion and Latour were still in need of more time and showed much younger than their years. That is what we call great genes. Who doesn’t want to be mistaken for being a decade younger? When the 1982 wines were originally released, prices for the top wines were still affordable. Today these wines are outrageously expensive upon release ($2,800 for Pétrus, anyone?). Surprisingly this hasn’t halted sales of Bordeaux in B.C. If you want the Bordeaux experience, you have to be prepared to invest a bit. Twenty dollars will get you a pretty basic example (look for Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur on the label). Not that this is a bad thing. Just don’t expect a profound and powerful wine that will age. They often show quite herbal with dry tannin and are in need of food. In really

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good years, you can find some great values at this price range. If you are prepared to pay a bit more, your chances of finding more concentration and complexity increase. Between basic Bordeaux and the top châteaux there are a number of wines under $100 that are cellar-worthy and satisfying. Finally, in less highly rated vintages like 2001 and 2004, even the most renowned châteaux are usually more reasonably priced and this is where the savvy shopper should search. Often forgotten next to the reds, Bordeaux whites should not be overlooked. Less expensive examples are usually made from a higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc with telltale herbal notes and high acidity. More premium offerings sport a greater portion of Sémillon, giving the wines a bit more weight. They may also see some oak influence adding vanilla and nutty notes. The best of the bunch also have great aging potential. Kick off a Bordeaux-themed dinner party with one of these stunning whites. They are fabulous with seafood and white fish in cream sauce. Contrary of what you might think, you don’t need a large and fancy cellar to age wine. There are plenty of other options. Depending on your budget and space, you can buy a wine fridge (available in different sizes) or wine storage cabinet, (pricier than wine fridges and more appropriate for long-term cellaring), turn the coldest room in your house into a wine cellar or simply store wine off site with one of the many companies offering such service. From reds to whites, Bordeaux offers plenty of reasons to develop patience. The complexity and depth of this region’s best wines takes time to develop. To reward yourself for your restraint, make sure you have plenty of wines on hand that are ready to drink. Delicious youthful distractions will help you exercise some self-control while waiting for these long-lived treasures to hit their stride. E

Whites 2012 Grand Bâteau, Bordeaux Blanc AOC $20-23 Lush exotic notes of guava with appealing herbal and vanilla notes. Drink when young and fresh. Hello sole in beurre blanc.

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Reds 2011 Château Argadens, Bordeaux Supérieur AOC $24-27 A great entry-level Bordeaux that delivers vintage after vintage. Dominated by Merlot, Argadens has a nice combination of cherry, cocoa and sweet tobacco notes. Drinking well now. 2010 Château Segue Monnier, Cru Bourgeois Médoc AOC $28-32 Cabernet Sauvignon is rounded out with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Blackberry, coffee and pencil shavings speak clearly to a Left Bank wine. Fairly light weight and best in the near term. 2010 Château Béard La Chapelle, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC $45-50 A great vintage known for its concentration and tannic structure, even on the Right Bank. Fragrant and appetizing with round, plushy plum fruit and spice on the palate. 2009 L’Hospitalet de Gazin, Pomerol AOC $60-65 Toast and spice aromas intrigue, with flavours of Christmas cake and chocolate charming the palate further. Underpinnings of tobacco and minerality complete the seduction of this rich Merlot- based Bordeaux. There are still some grippy tannins here. 1989 Château Bel-Air Lagrave, Moulis en Médoc AOC $86-92* Well-priced aged Bordeaux is scarce in our market. What a great find! An elegant wine from a great vintage that is drinking perfectly right now. Complex notes of orange, leather and sweet tobacco. Still fresh but it’s time to drink it. Simply prepared lamb, please. 2009 Château Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Éstèphe AOC $88-94 Exotic floral, star anise, cassis, vanilla and black liquorice. Dense and savoury with rich black fruit countered with well-managed ripe tannin. Has the stuffing and structure to age another five to 15 years. 2009 Château-Sociando Mallet, Haut-Médoc AOC $90-97* Even though the price keeps on going up with each vintage, it is still a good buy. A robust and luscious Left Bank wine that seduces easily, especially in a year like 2009. 2010 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac AOC $158-168 An elegant Pauillac that keeps on shining vintage after vintage. Structured yet precise with beautiful mineral notes. Will age well. Please wait. *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores.

WWW.OUGHTRED.COM www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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g WHAT TO DRINK WITH THAT

—By Treve Ring

January Virtue vs Valentine’s Vice    The best BC has to offer! Featuring regional         

 

           

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Virtue: Grilled Chicken Breast Salad with Avocado, Walnuts and Green Beans and a Ginger-Miso Vinaigrette

Vice: Roast Chicken with Pancetta, Porcini Mushrooms, Rosemary and Cream Sauce over Garlic Capellini Pasta

SMC. So many flavours and textures here. We need a wine that has a distinctive character and won’t get drowned out by the food. We also need some bright acidity to match the vinaigrette. I’d reach for a Riesling from Alsace with beautifully intensive aromatics and racy freshness. Being virtuous isn’t so bad after all.

SMC. Definitely a ripe, lightly oaked Chardonnay for this one. The richness of the food demands an opulent, creamytextured wine. The mushrooms and the rosemary point me towards a wine that has both fruit and savoury elements. Bourgogne, the home of Chardonnay, is an easy choice, but I’ve enjoyed some Italian versions from Tuscany and Sicily recently that I’d hunt down.

HYW. Grill marks, creamy avocado, and a dressing with Asian flair; I look to the diverse southwest of France to pair up here. While well known for their fullbodied and bold red wines, their whites often over-deliver for value and are packed with personality. From Gros Menseng and Petit Menseng, the wines will provide both the weight, as well as refreshing quality to compliment the salad. Or furt her south, we can go to the Spanish’s Galicia coasts; Rias Baixas’ Albariùo grape would fair well here with its herbaceous, but stone fruit-driven notes.

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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

T H I S

M O N T H ’ S

HYW. One can easily be seduced to stay in the Mediterranean faced with such rustic flavors. Piedmont, Italy has always been a soft spot for me; home to the famous Nebbiolo, I would seek out its little brother, Barbera, for its racy acidity, juiciness and diversity in style. The lighter-weight, refreshing style will cut through the richness of the fatty pancetta and cream sauce, bringing light-hearted fruitiness to the pairing. The richer, more tailored styles will showcase more earthy and savory notes, deliciously complimenting the mushrooms and the rosemary-driven sauce E

E X P E RT S

Sharon McLean (SMC) Founder, Cru Consultancy, Victoria Sharon is a leading wine educator, responsible for delivering Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) and French Wine Scholar (FWS) courses on Vancouver Island and for introducing the Italian Wine Specialist certification to BC. Most recently, she has joined EATmagazine.ca as the roving beverage reporter. After completing the WSET Diploma in 2009 with the highest marks in Canada, she finished the Sherry Educator, French Wine Scholar and Center for Wine Origins (Port & Champagne) certifications. Sharon is a second year Masters of Wine candidate – one of the few in Canada currently attempting wine’s most prestigious and rigorous academic honours. When not engaged in a wine glass, she is a highly sought after management consultant with more than 20 years of international experience. Hao-Yang Wang (HYW) GM, Sommelier, Farmer’s Apprentice, Vancouver Based in Vancouver, Hao-Yang began his career in the restaurant industry where he discovered his passion for wine. While he was completing his WSET Level 4, he had the opportunity to manage one of the Liberty Wine Merchant’s boutique wine shops. He returned to the restaurant scene as an Assistant Wine Director at West Restaurant. In 2013, Hao-Yang assumed the role as the AGM/ Sommelier, opening Pidgin in Gastown. Currently, Hao-Yang is the GM at Vancouver’s Farmer’s Apprentice Restaurant and is anticipating the opening of its sister wine bar, Grapes and Soda.


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g LIQUID ASSETS

—By Larry Arnold

Francois Pinon Brut Non Dosé Vouvray NV France $30.00-33.00 Wow! This bone dry, sparkling chenin from the Loire Valley will take your breath away. The first time tasted, in a standard Champagne flute, during a lunch too bibulous for serious contemplation, this sparkler was just one of many. However, the second try in a Burgundy glass, it was a vinous revelation! Pale yellow with a tight persistent bead. The nose is almost obscenely lush with honey, quince and a potpourrie of citrus aromas. The palate is just as shocking with gobs of fruit, a chauky minerality and a vivacious oily texture tamed by a jolt of acidity that could bring tears to your eyes if this lovely sparkler was not in perfect harmony. Graham Beck Brut Rose NV South Africa $26.00-28.00 Although Graham Beck markets a full range of wines, sparkling wine is the winery’s flagship. The non-vintage Rose is a blend of pinot noir (70%) and chardonnay (30%) sourced from vineyards in Robertson and Stellenbosch. This perky, little Brut has a delicate salmon colour with fine persistent bubbles. It is soft and very fruity with a wonderful creamy texture balanced by a cut of lively acidity. Highly recommended. Emotivo Sparkling Rose Extra Dry Italy $16.00-17.00 This juicy little Spumante is a delight to drink and at a mere 11% alcohol, make no mistake, it goes down in a most delightful manner. Pale pink with tiny bubbles and delicate strawberry and cherry aromas persist through the palate. Very fruity but blessed with just enough refreshing acidity to give it enough structure to carry it through the finish. Sparr Cremant D’Alsace Brut Rose NV France $30.00-33.00 Cremant is basically sparkling wine produced in the champagne method but not in the Champagne district. Located in Sigolsheim, near the heart of the Alsace, Maison Pierre Sparr has been making wine since the reigh of King Louis XIV. Plenty of time to work out the kinks I would say! The Rose is 100% pinot noir, salmon pink with a lovely mousse and intense raspberry and strawberry aromas. On the palate it just gets better with plenty of fresh fruit and a delicate dry finish. Superb. Hogue Cellars Columbia Valley Riesling 2012 Washington $14.00-17.00 This lovely west coast riesling is made in the arid wastelands of eastern Washington. The nose brings to mind apricots, peaches and the pronounced diesel aroma often found in rieslings much older. Hogue Cellars Riesling has got it all, a great nose, with gobs of ripe fruit flavours, lip smacking acidity, a slightly oily texture and just enough residual sweetness to satisfy your primal urges. It is off-dry, but I love it anyways. Simply delicious at a great price. Pentage Pinot Gris 2012 Okanagan $21.00-23.00 Pentage Winery, located just outside of Penticton, continues to impress year in year out. The 2012 pinot gris is a real cracker, with citrus, pear and green apple flavours nicely balanced with fine acidity and a long clean finish. Jentsch Cellars Cabernet Merlot 2013 Okanagan $16.00-18.00 Located just outside of Oliver on the famed Golden Mile, the Jentsch family has been farming in the valley since 1929. This supple red is a blend of cabernet franc (43%), merlot (37%) and cabernet sauvignon (20%). Inky black with ripe berry, spice and vanilla aromas, medium-bodied with sweet fruit flavours and a soft tannic structure. Delicious. Marcel Giraudon Borgogne Chitry 2013 France $35.00-38.00 The tiny village of Chitry-le-Fort, located just south of Chablis, is perhaps better known for the quality of its aligote than its delicious pinot noirs. Good colour with cherry, raspberry and floral aromas, a lovely silky texture redolent with fresh fruit flavours and juicy acidity. Absolutely delicious. Joie Gamay 2012 Okanagan $24.00-26.00 Gamay is the grape of Beaujolais and this tasty fruit-bomb from the Okanagan has much in common with a great Moulin a Vent or Morgon. Deeply coloured, with a wonderful nose of black cherry, pepper and brambles. The palate is silky smooth and E balanced with ripe fruit, refreshing acidity and supple tannins. Very drinkable. E

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www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

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THE LOCAL LIST EAT’s where to find it guide

EAT Magazine is available thanks to the support of our advertisers. Please support them whenever you can

GLUTEN-FREE

EAT

ORIGIN BAKERY "Origin Bakery is Victoria's first 100% gluten-free bakery offering a wide range of tasty goods that everyone will love. Whether you are celiac or not, come try us and see if you can tell the difference!” 1525 Pandora Ave, 250-590-4149 110-1790 Island Hwy, Colwood, 250-590-8948 originbakery.com

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DOWNTOWN DUNCAN Open Tuesday - Saturday 1525 Pandora Ave Victoria BC 250.590.4149 110 - 1790 Island Hwy Colwood BC 250-590-8948 www.originbakery.com

HUDSON’S ON FIRST Award winning dining in a beautifully restored heritage home. Local ingredients, classic techniques and made from scratch cooking are a just few reasons to visit us in Duncan more often. Celebrate Bubbles & Brunch, Lunch and Dinner. 163 First St. Duncan 250-597-0066 www.hudsonsonfirst.ca

MEALS TO GO THE APPLE BOX Frozen Meals with a Local Emphasis - The Apple Box' Seasonal Menu or Food Box consists of Frozen Dinners, Appetizers & Desserts made with Local hormone free pasture raised meats, local produce & organic ingredients. Available In Store 1725 Cook St www.theapplebox.ca 250-590-6257

Vegetarian & Gluten Wise Options

eatmagazine.ca/20-foodie-things-to-do-in-the-fall

2. The Best Sommelier in BC: From Wine Waiter to Rock Star Among her other accomplishments Sharon McLean is a French Wine Scholar. Her report on this hotly contested competition prompted numerous shares on Facebook. eatmagazine.ca/bc-sommelier-of-the-year-makes-hisown-wine-2

3. Long Dark Blues on the Number 14 Bus Absolutely hilarious. Thanks Jon. eatmagazine.ca/long-dark-blues-number-14-bus-2

4. Hash Browns in Victoria = Variety Holly sure does love her potatoes. eatmagazine.ca/hashbrowns-victoria-variety

5. Johnson’s Jewels – His Ultra Secret Food Spots You’ll need to puzzle this one out. eatmagazine.ca/johnsons-jewels

THE METRICS

♥ “Get down to @heyhappycoffee and try this geisha tasting flight ASAP. It will blow your mind. #yyj #yyjfood #coffee “ > Most Instagramed story: “Thanks Liam (@snpfox) for the awesome lunch today. We enjoyed every bite! #yyj #yyjfood #EATmagazine” “Need this in my life!”

THE FRENCH OVEN BAKERY

C Hynes

EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

1. “20 Foodie Things To Do in the Fall” Contrubtor Sol Kaufman loves the rain, warm houses and the same day dinner challenges.

VICTORIA PUBLIC MARKET Baker By Trade. Taught by the masters in his home country of France, Nicolas Castro has brought the centuries-old practices and recipes of French bread making to Victoria. Savour a pain au chocolat or sit down for a Spicy hot chocolate and croissant. Always fresh, always something new, come and join Nicolas and his wife Sandra for a taste of France in downtown Victoria at the Victoria Public Market (at the Hudson). Free 2 hour parking. Tuesday through Sunday 9:30 to 6:30 (5 on Sunday) Thefrenchovenbakery.ca

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TALK By Rebecca Baugniet

What the Pros Know

For this issue, we asked local nutritionists and dieticians to tell us what they would recommend if they could only make one food-related resolution this New Year. Danielle Van Schaick, Owner, Dani Health & Nutrition Services, (250) 5906382 As a dietitian, I always hear people talking about what they should "cut out of their diet". If you were to make just one food resolution this year, it would be to try one new Start thinking about what food you could add to your diet to increase your health. This simple resolution can add great variety and nutrient value to your diet. Some examples might be to add protein- and omega-packed hemp hearts to your morning oatmeal or try a new recipe that uses anti-inflammatory spices such as ginger or turmeric. Todd Howard, President and Owner, Pacific Rim College, (250) 483-2119, Owner, Ravenhill Herb Farm My family and I are going to grow as much of our own food as possible. Much of the rest we will purchase from local farms that use organic growing practices. Pamela Durkin, RNC, Nutritional Consultant and Health Journalist, BWell There are so many ideas out there about what constitutes a healthy diet and many people have a fraught relationship with food. Often people try to fix health problems with food will do so by cutting out entire food groups or adopting restrictive diets— with, at best, limited success. Many physical complaints are often more about what's eating you than what you're eating. End the confusion and quit stressing about food. In general, I say if God made it—eat it. Spend money on good quality food created by Mother Nature, and forego the processed stuff. Claire Welch, CNP, Certified Nutrition Practitioner & Lifestyle Consultant, Pure Health Centre, Vancouver, (604) 899-4162 Get rid of pasty "white" foods. These are white simple carbs that turn into sugar once it enters the body. This means white bread, white flour, white rice, white pasta, etc. Once a cell has enough sugar it closes its doors. When there's too much it turns into fat and gets stored. Yes, sugar makes you fat! Swapping these for organic "brown" options like plant protein rich quinoa, brown rice, spelt or kamut pasta, or a sprouted grain bread, you are raising your nutrient content considerably. More nutrients, less craving for simple carbs or more food. And yes, you can have that odd burger, just don't eat the bun. Carmine Sparanese, Lifestyle Markets, (250) 384-3388 My one food resolution offering is to include more high quality soup (at the expense of processed, low-nutrient foods) to one’s weekly food choices. These soups are centered on traditional miso (from fermented organic soybeans) and bone broths made from pastured, non-medicated animals. Do it for the taste, elevated mood and health benefits! Adrienne Grange, Registered Dietitian, AG Nutrition, (250) 208-9320 My New Year’s food-related resolution would be to increase the variety of colour in my food choices. Eating more reds, oranges, greens, and even purples found in fruits and vegetables will provide the antioxidants that the body needs to keep the immune system strong and healthy, especially during cold and flu season. Jessica Robertson, Registered Dietitian, Victory Health and Wellness, (250) 382-2639 If I had to recommend one food-related New Year’s resolution, it would be to include more fibre in your diet. Most of us are getting less than half the daily recommended amount of fibre (between 21-38 grams/day). Fibre has a plethora of health benefits including: help keep your bowels regular, helps lower cholesterol, helps stabilize blood sugars, helps keep you feel fuller for longer. If people were to include more fruit and vegetable servings daily, or choose whole grain products rather than refined ones, or included meals that contain legumes on a more regular basis they would likely increase their fibre intake and thus receive some of the health benefits described above.... Go fibre go!

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The Buzz VICTORIA: 2015 is shaping up pretty well already, wouldn’t you

only music program, aims to attract locals but will also provide food-

further afield. There are lots of new and interesting things to keep you

agree? The Victoria Downtown Public Market is making good use

service for the hotel. Instead of mints accompanying your bill you can

occupied so pick a bright sunny day for a road tour, take a cooler

of their Community Kitchen space and has teamed up with Olive the

expect to find Discovery doughnut holes on locally-crafted boards.

and get out there!

Senses to offer a series of classes centered around various olive oils.

(hotelzed.com)

The first class in the New Year takes place on Jan 8 from 6-8pm. Each

Make your first stop Bad Habits Cafe in Maple Bay for some

In celebration of the Chinese New Year, the Hotel Grand Pacific

wonderful locally roasted coffee and delectable baked goodies or perhaps treat yourself to one of owner Trien Cao's special dinners. In

class consists of a three-course meal featuring different ways to cook

is offering a Dim Sum Tea from Feb 18-28. This twist on a traditional

with EVOO and vinegars, as well as a treat to take home for break-

afternoon tea sees Executive Chef Rick Choy pairing Asian influences

February, to celebrate the year of the sheep there will be a multiple

fast. $45. (www.victoriapublicmarket.com) (www.olivethesenses.com)

with local, sustainable ingredients. The Hotel Grand Pacific is also the

course Vietnamese dinner not to be missed. (badhabitscafe.com)

If one of your resolutions this year is to whip your culinary skills into

backdrop for the 10th Annual Victoria Whisky Festival, running

Cowichan is home to a new distillery called Amperstand, located

shape, Cook Culture has just the thing for you – a three part Cook-

from Feb 15-18. (hotelgrandpacific.com) (victoriawhiskyfestival.com)

on Sol Organic Farm. Jeremy Schacht is a chemical engineer with a different approach to distilling. He and his engineer father along

ing Boot Camp with Chef Jason MacIsaac which will equip you with

I don’t get often excited about TV shows, but I recently heard about

all the essential skills you need to navigate the kitchen with confidence.

a new food program that I can’t wait to see. Moosemeat and

with Jessica McLeod built stainless steel stills, and tiny copper springs

The series runs Jan 15, 22 and 29, and will cover knife skills, tocks and

Marmalade launches January 7th on the Aboriginal Peoples

that can be replaced when they loose their reactivness instead of

sauces, food safety, and cooking methods for meats and fishes, eggs,

Television Network (APTN) with a highly original concept. A 13-

traditional copper stills that wear out over time. It's never been tried

vegetables and pasta. (cookculture.com)

part documentary food series bringing two contrasting chefs, bush

before, yet the resulting gin is lovely and floral with a clean bright

If your resolutions lean towards growing more of your own food,

cook Art Napoleon and classically trained chef Dan Hayes (The

taste. (ampersanddistilling.com)

then don’t miss this year’s Seedy Saturday, to be held on Feb 21 at

London Chef), together in what promises to be an informative and

the Victoria Conference Centre. This is where you can find local, BC,

highly entertaining exploration of culture, worldview and really good

wine scholars Michael Coughlin and Milly Sinclair offer a French

open-pollinated, organic and natural seeds for sale, as well as

food. In each episode one chef takes the lead, selecting a key

Wine Scholar study and certification program; everything you need

On Salt Spring Island at Stonehouse B&B January 13th, French

seedlings, plants, small fruits and a seed exchange. The event is hosted

ingredient and taking the other on a journey to locate, hunt or gather

to become fully versed in the wines of the number #1 wine producing

by the James Bay Market Society. (jamesbaymarket.com/SeedySat-

that ingredient. He will then cook it in an appropriate venue and serve

country in the world, all enjoyed in a spectacular setting.

up a tasty meal to satisfy the people they meet along the way.

(stay@saltspringstonehouse.com)

urday) The end of 2014 brought some new food and beverage destina-

Episodes see the two visiting Northern BC to hunt beaver and moose,

Lucky for us, former chef and owners of Bistro Taiyo, Shinya and

tions to Victoria – Mai Mai’s Bistro, a late-night Asian West Coast fu-

and the English countryside, where the pair attend a traditional pheas-

Kyoko Kadokura have returned to Nanaimo from Japan to start

sion eatery in the Temple building on Fort St (maimaisbistro.com), and

ant hunt on the estate of a 17th century manor. If you want to see Art

'Wa-Ku'- or 'Exciting' - a Japanese noodle restaurant offering

a new location of Discovery Coffee on Blanshard St, serving the

and Dan live in action, the London Chef is hosting a Moosemeat and

sublime noodle soups, feather light tempura and crunchy karage chicken.1483 Bowen Rd.

same great coffee as well as the ever-tempting doughnuts that are

Marmalade cooking class on Jan 10; an interactive afternoon of

made daily in-house at the Discovery Bakery in James Bay.

cooking, eating and education about traditional Aboriginal cuisine.

(discoverycoffee.com) You will soon also be able to find Discovery

(moosemeatandmarmalade.com) (thelondonchef.com)

market in Nanaimo at Pleasant Valley Hall. Newly formed Island

coffee at The Ruby, a 50-seat restaurant opening early in the New

—REBECCA BAUGNIET

Roots Market Co-op brings together producers and farmers every

Year at the Hotel Zed on Douglas St. The Ruby will focus on a daily

Wednesday between 3-6pm all year so plan to pick up your favorite

breakfast from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and a traditional rotisserie chicken

COWICHAN VALLEY | UP ISLAND: January & February are

program starting at 11 a.m. The restaurant, which will feature a vinyl-

perfect months to get out and explore your local area, or venture

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EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2015

This past October saw the first weekly, dedicated indoor farmers

farm fresh products regularily. (islandrootsmarket.ca) Wandering further up island brings you to the new Eat Fresh


EAT Magazine January | February 2015_Layout 1 12/30/14 11:35 AM Page 39

The Buzz Urban Market in Parksville; a small group of local friends and neighbours dedicated to bringing together butchers, bakers, and farmers supplying products made in the area. A variety of chefs are also on hand making gourmet meals grown close to home. (eatfreshurbanmarket.com) Cumberland isn't a regular stop for most people but this charming town is home to Tarbell's Deli and Espresso. While not new to the scene chef and owner Innes McColl and partner Mary Kornelsen passionately make wonderful fresh breakfasts and lunches, which can be enjoyed in-house alongside Ethical Bean espresso, or perhaps a hard americano with your choice of liqueur. Afterwards a lovely walk on a nearby trail leaves you feeling invigorated and ready for more exploring. (tarbellsdeli.ca) Much loved Tree Island Yogurt in Royston is set to release new packaging using 50% less plastic a european product making its first debut in Canada. Look for increased production of your favorite flavours with better availability, and recipies using various TI yogurts created by island chefs. Check their website for current distribution and take some back with you. (treeislandyogurt.com) Finally, two new places of note in Courtenay to check out; The Hub Cafe owned by Ben-Zion Eni for great coffee and full flavoured lunches all made with fresh whole foods, and Sweet Surprise gluten free bakery for rich gf and paelo treats. Choose just a few, or hit them all on a super road trip - let your taste buds decide - you never know what flavour memories you'll create! —KIRSTEN TYLER TOFINO: The winter is a time for local businesses to take a breath and many often close their doors for a short while to do some much needed updates or tweaks. This year, it’s giving two local businesses a chance to rest on their laurels. Wolf in the Fog, opened in June of this year, has been named the best new Canadian restaurant by Air Canada’s enRoute Magazine. Opened at the end of June this year, Wolf in the Fog is headed up by former Wickaninnish Inn head chef Nick Nutting, whose focus in on locally sourced ingredients. A panel of food professionals from across Canada submitted their picks to food and wine writer Andrew Braithwaite for best new restaurant, and he chose tenfinalists from a short list of thirty. Braithwaite reportedly spent a month travelling around the country, dining anonymously at each restaurant. Ayden, located in Saskatoon, was the people’s choice winner in an online poll.

1715 Government Street 250.475.6260 www.lecole.ca eat@lecole.ca

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pm Tuesday to Saturday

The Wolf in the Fog crew celebrated the honour with a holiday season kick-off party on Dec. 3rd featuring the California surf band the Allah-Las. For more information on this new Tofino star, please visit (wolfinthefog.com). And the accolades continue for Tofino properties. The Wickaninnish Inn has once again garnered recognition from the North American readers of Conde Nast Traveler Magazine. In October, the resort was named the #1 resort in Canada in the 2014 Conde Nast Travelers Readers’ Choice awards. In the readers’ poll, readers voted for their favourite hotels based on the following categories: rooms, service, location, food/dining, design, activities/facilities, and value. The Inn was also named top Canadian hotel in the Reader’s Travel Awards for the European edition of the magazine. Kudos to both the Wickaninnish Inn and Wolf in the Fog for continuing to put Tofino on the map as an international destination. The owners of the Spotted Bear Bistro are hard at work changing the concept from a small bistro to a Japanese style izakaya restaurant. Kuma will reopen the doors in January with a brand new menu.

Featuring local, all natural, free-range NEW Deli meats and salamis

Head chef Simon Burch is still at the helm of the popular local spot, which plans to offer both lunch and dinner. The menu is described as fresh and healthy, with rice and noddle dishes, as well as many tempting small plates. We are looking forward to this revamped addition to the new Tofino culinary scene, and don’t worry, the famous Spotted Bear tuna tartare will continue to be available at Kuma.

Quality meats, Poultry, Cheeses,

(kumatofino.com) The Ocean Wise program is making inroads into the far west coast, working with the Chamber of

Specialty Products

Commerce and local businesses to achieve certification status for seafood products sold and restaurant dishes. This is an exciting prospect for local restaurants, many of which already serve local seafood and

& Condiments

shellfish. The recognizable symbol will alert savvy foodies to the sustainable nature of their order. For more information on this Vancouver Aquarium program, please visit oceanwise.ca. Winter stormwatching season is upon us on the west coast. We hope you’ll join us! —JEN DART

2577 Cadboro Bay Road,VICTORIA

592-0823

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Le Creuset Stainless Steel Cookware

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Eat magazine january | february 2015