YEAR 20 N. 83 - MARCH 2015
T R AV E L
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WINE WHISPERERS A NEW GENERATION Harald Schraffl - Nals Margreid
COVERSTORY 24 | Sirmian. The Timeless Pinot Bianco On the slopes of Alto Adige, a young enologist/agronomist is making a long-lived wine even more in harmony with nature
WINE 30 | BRUNELLO. CHIANTI AND NOBILE: ANTEPRIMA TASTING Three great zones unveil their new releases: we taste wines from Montepulciano, Montalcino and Chianti Classico. Bottom line: 2010 was one for the ages 44 | It’s Vinitaly Time. An overview of the Italian wine world’s biggest annual event
march 2015 12 2 MARCH 2015
One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.” Virginia Woolf A Room of One’s Own 68
12 | Grenache, the multi faces of grape This adaptable variety changes name and personality, thriving around the world.
48 | VERONA: THE CITY AT A GLANCE The best places to eat and drink in a wine enthusiast’s town
68 |Bere Bene: Best buys under 10€ Sardinia: The wine-drenched island. The region’s many indigenous varieties, not only cannonau and vermentino, are ÅVLQVOIVM_I]LQMVKM
NEWS & MORE 3 | Editorials 8 | Street Food 14 | Pairing Lab/Pizza & Wine 16 | Wine buy of the month 17 | Twitter dixit 18 | Events: Australia 20 | Italians abroad: Giuseppe Tentori 76 | Letter from Paris
FOOD 54 | Pairing Olive Oil. Oli d’Italia 2015 A pairing map, region by region. Which oil goes with what?
3 MARCH 2015
VINITALY & NEW VINTAGES In March, some of the most crucial events of the wine universe appear on our calendars. The ÅZ[\ XMZPIX[ \PM most visible in media terms, is the great Vinitaly fair in Verona, now in its 49th edition, arriving a little early this year, March 22-25. For the last two decades, even wine has had to adapt to the new styles and rhythms of modern life – everything moves faster and is more open to the world. Competition has become permanent and global. To celebrate next year’s half-century mark without scheduling complications will take some careful planning. Vinitaly has deep ranks of habitués who serenely M`XMK\IÅ`ML[WTQL_MTTXTIVVMLM^MV\*]\M^erything gets more complicated when we consider other happenings that have also become NIQZTaÅ`MLNMI\]ZM[WV\PMKITMVLIZ"\PM[WKITTML anteprime, early tastings. At the start, anteprime tastings involved only the most prestigious denominations. The opportunities appeared quietly and gradually, aimed at a select few: wine journalists. After a number of years, the betterknown territories forged their own regular time and space, but this well-regulated mechanism now seems at the breaking point, a victim of its own success. Anteprime tastings have multiplied, with every Consorzio or Chamber of Commerce creating analogous events. The result is that the
date books of those interested have become unreasonably crowded. Usually, anteprime come between December and March, with a few important exceptions extending the season into May. Today, their proliferation has made it almost impossible for newcomers to the proKM[[ \W ÅVL I NZMM date. Commercial and economic factors have forced organizers to look for synergy, at least synching the dates for homogeneous territories. The result of all this activity is that these are not just events that last a day, but turn into journeys that last weeks, causing practical problems for Italian wine journalists, but above all, for foreign ones. These events are wonderful occasions for the public to get to know the producers, their wines and their territories better. It would be a shame to have to pass up the opportunity to taste in anteprima the wines of an entire denomination, and to get a concrete idea of the new vintage year. The upcoming Expo 2015 is making the wine world even more frenetic, so a resolution of these scheduling issues is unlikely this year. But it will take serious thought and cooperation to design a practical wine-event calendar to prevent losing out to international competition. Gianni Fabrizio
4 MARCH 2015
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PER INFO: WORLDTOUR@GAMBEROSSO.IT
HOW WINE HABITS ARE CHANGING: PREDICTIONS FOR 2018
According to popular belief, Germans are the biggest beer drinkers in the world, but by 2018, they could surpass Italy in wine consumption. The authoritative IWSR /Vinexpo report predicts that within four years, Germans will drink the equivalent of 3.3 million bottles of wine (+ 1%), reaching third place in the list. Italy will uncork only 3.28 million bottles, a reduction of about 5%. But the real news is that the United States, with 4.5 million bottles, IV QVKZMI[M WN KW]TL ZMIKP ÅZ[\ place, looking down even on France.
PREMIUM OLIVE OIL: THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT PROPOSAL There’s interesting news for the olive oil world, a resolution (B8-
0180/2015) presented to the European Parliament by Croatian deputy Ivan Jakovþiüon February 18, 2015. It invites the EuroXMIV+WUUQ[[QWV\WILWX\I[MZQM[WN [XMKQÅKUMIZM[IQUQVO\W" 8ZW^QLMZMKWOVQ\QWV\W\PMPQOPY]ITQ\aWTQ^MWQT[NITTQVO]VLMZ\PM category of extra virgin 1V\ZWL]KMIVM_¹XZMUQ]UºKI\MOWZa_PQKP_W]TL[I\Q[Na[\ZQK\ criteria with regard to taste, aroma and nutritional value )JW^MITTQ\Q[ZXZQ[QVO\PI\NWZ\PMÅZ[\\QUM\PM[MV[WZaIVL health-related aspects of quality extra-virgin olive oil are spotlighted, not only chemical parameters which, presumably, would be more restrictive than the current ones. 6 MARCH 2015
Leonardo Da Vinci’s Vineyard ON SHOW FOR THE EXPO
New properties FOR GIACOMO CONTERNO AND BOROLI
The Langhe is buzzing with activity. Despite the astonishing prices of vineyards (as much as a million euros per hectare) wineries are making purchases that show the healthy, strong interest in Barolo. Giacomo Conterno, the winery in Monforte d’Alba, beating out a competing important American buyer, bought for about 6-7 million euros, the Arione cru of Serralunga d’Alba, acquiring it from /QOQ:W[[W\PMÅZUW_VMLJaJZW\PMZ[ Claudio and Maurizio Rosso. The 3.6 hectares are next to Cascina Francia and produce about 20,000 bottles. Included in the deal is a hectare of Barbera d’Alba, one of Nebbiolo d’Alba, and a wooded \ZIK\SVW_VNWZQ\[_PQ\M\Z]NÆM[<PMVM_ Barolo will be released in 2019. A second Langarolo deal, for over 4 million euros, involved Cascina Sorello, in La Morra. The Boroli family bought 4.5 hectares of nebbiolo for Barolo, bringing their vineyard total to 29, of which 10 are nebbiolo for Barolo.
For Expo 2015, the city of Milano is betting on the charm of Leonardo da Vinci and his vineyard, a gift from Duke Ludovico Sforza to the artist as payment for the Last Supper in Santa Maria delle Grazie, painted in 1499. The property, which today is in the center of the city, a few steps from one of da Vinci’s most celebrated works, will open to the public in May, _Q\PO]QLML\W]Z[XWQV\QVOW]\\PMLM^MTWXUMV\[WN \PMTI[\Å^M centuries. A ten-year research project carried out by the University of Milano, led by Professor Attilio Scienza and geneticist ;MZMVI1UIbQWTML\W\PMQLMV\QÅKI\QWV\PZW]OP,6)\M[\QVO of the grape variety – Malvasia di Candia – and the location of the vines, near the monastery refectory. The scholars found live fragments of Vitis Vinifera from the original plantings, and, thanks to a contribution from Confagricoltura, the new vineyard is growing today in the exact spot in which its illustrious ancestor thrived.
Biondi Santi will not produce Brunello di Montalcino 2014. EYES ON ROSSO…
Biondi Santi will not produce the 2014 vintage of Tenuta il Greppo Brunello, nor turn out a Riserva. The last vintage year [SQXXML_I[¹<PQ[Q[IKPWQKM_MPIL\WUISM\WUIQV\IQV PQOPY]ITQ\a1\_I[IUIRWZLMKQ[QWVNWZW]ZM[\I\MºM`XTIQVML2IKWXW*QWVLQ;IV\Q¹<PMaMIZ_I[XWWZL]M\W excess rain. The grapes were full of water, the skins were very thin and tannins were inferior. Everything will go into Rosso di Montalcino, _PQKP_QTTJMVMÅ\NZWUKIZMN]T[MTMK\QWV1\_QTT JMIOZMI\Y]ITQ\aJW\\TMº<PMXZM[\QOQW][<][can winery will lose sales ranging from 4.5 to 5 million euros, but we’re sure that Rosso 2014 will be one of the great buys of the year when it is released. 7 MARCH 2015
THE FOODHALLEN IN AMSTERDAM A covered market offers top quality street food in an old tram depot. Architect André von Stigt restored an early 20th century tram depot in the Oud West Amsterdam area. Today it houses a hotel, a public library, an art gallery, a few restaurants and the first covered food hall in the city, modeled after celebrated European markets. Twenty stands open all day and evening attract crowds and offer variety, quality and affordability.
covered market offers top quality street food in an old tram depot Architect André von Stigt restored an early 20th century tram depot in the Oud West Amsterdam area. Today it houses a hotel, a public library, an art gallery, a few res\I]ZIV\[ IVL \PM ÅZ[\ KW^MZML food hall in the city, modeled after celebrated European markets. Twenty stands open all day and evening attract crowds and offer variety, quality and affordability. It was an century-old, abandoned parking structure for trams – The Halls, a national monument dating from the early 20th century, in the Bel-
lamyplein neighborhood of Amsterdam. Photos tell it all: until a short time ago, the entire area was in a totally neglected state, complete with broken windows and weedy lots. A well-thought out restoration project completed at the end of 2014 now draws thousands of food fans, locals and tourists. The original structure is from 1908, and the tram tracks are still visible. Architect André von Stigt is likely to be recognized as the year’s most illustrious citizen by his grateful city. De Foodhallen, the spacious covered market dedicated to street food is only part of a very ambitious renovation plan that 8 MARCH 2015
will also include a cinema and today houses a public library, \PM 0W\MT LM 0ITTMV WNÅKM[ restaurants, an art gallery and a Local Goods Market that
takes place every weekend. Open every day, from morning to night, the new market brings together twenty different vendors of food and drink. Visitors can choose between ethnic, organic, and traditional food, or opt for platters of local cheese. Modeled after other European markets such as the Mercado di San Miguel in Madrid, the space attracted many food providers that were already successfully established around the city, such as The Butcher (Aberdeen angus beef
hamburgers), Caulils (popular cheese platters), Wild Moa Pies, Bbrood bakery for bitterballen (beef croquettes), Petit Gateau for pastry. That encouraged new businesses offering top quality street-style food to open here, such as the Vietnamese Viet View (pork banh mi baguettes), Shirkhan (chicken tikka), Green Brothers (vegan panini), Bulls and Dogs (hot dogs) and the standout, The Rough Kitchen (beef and pulled pork on black bread). Each stand is different, but all are reasonably priced and can provide beer or a glass or wine. In the center of the food hall are numerous tables, always crowded with visitors sharing a meal, a snack or an aperitif, no matter the time of day. Foodhallen Bellamyplein 51 Amsterdam | Every day from 11 to 20 (weekends until 21) | http://www.foodhallen.nl/
9 MARCH 2015
POLENTA ON WHEELS and the Food Ready Concept VS-Veicoli Speciali, the vehicles dedicated to street food This Piedmontese company, with twenty years of know-how, launched a line of special vehicles designed to satisfy all the needs of those ready to undertake a mobile food service business, that is, future street food sellers. Street food has become a rapidly-spreading phenomenon in recent years. Today it is easier to ride the wave of this trend. With good ingredients and an original idea, preparing and selling food on the street can become a successful business. For twenty years, the Piedmontese company VS – Veicoli Speciali – has specialized in installing market stalls and providing services for itinerant commerce ranging from graphics to organization and merchandising. In 2007 they entered the Italian market as designers and more for small suitable vehicles (often threewheeled motor-scooters with trailers called Ape - bees in Italian, a reference to the sound of their motors) complete with all the equipment needed by itinerant merchants. Soon they developed a line dedicated to street food. The factory in Leini, in the province of Torino, launched the VS – Street Food line of Apecar, along with refrigerated, completely equipped trailers and
vans. They adapted the image and functions of the scooter-truck to each client’s requirements. One after another, they designed the Ape Martini and the Ape friggitoria (for frying), complete with extractor hood, the T2 Volkswagen cocktail bar with place for a DJ, a Piaggio Porter gelateria, a luxury trailer for the production and sale of hamburgers and the Ape butcher with a high-end Berkel slicing machine incorporated. <PMVM_M[\ILLQ\QWV\W\PMÆMM\WN \PM.WWL:MILa Concept, ready to take advantage of the growing need for itinerant culinary businesses, is PolentApe. The vehicle, ideal for offering polenta on the road, modernizes a tradition that is deeply rooted in the Italian countryside. It becomes the perfect street food and has already been seen on the streets of Cuneo. Meanwhile, VS – Street Food vehicles have become a standout brand for those who decide to embrace the ever-growing notion of the moveable feast, which develops alongside interest in the street food universe.
by Giuseppe Carrushi
GRENACHE, A MULTI FACES GRAPE A glocal variety: grown around the world, but always different
n Italy, it goes under the names of Alicante, Tai rosso, Granaccia, Gamay del Trasimeno, Bordò. In the south of France, they call it Grenache; in Spain it’s known as Guarnacha; in Sardinia it’s Cannonau. Whatever its name, it is the most widelygrown grape of the Mediterranean, but also the most popular around the world. In California, South America, South Africa and Australia they have been begun planting the variety that seems to represent, with its 200,000 hectares globally, a valid and fascinating alternative to the historic diffusion of the varieties we now call international. Although until a few years ago, there was general agreement that the grape’s origin was Spanish, now, after the discovery of grape seed remains in vari-
ous zones of Sardinia dating back to 3,200 years ago, it seems certain that Cannonau is a true island native. It was from here that it spread around the Mediterranean. Obviously, with the passing centuries, we have to take into account what is LMÅVML I[ ¹QLMIT IKKTQUI\QbI\QWVº _PQKP UMIV[ that by now, the different varieties of grapes have developed similar but not identical characteristics, depending on the zone in which they have had to survive. Moving on from the grapes to the wines, certain differences are clear, but that isn’t surprising if you consider that for a wine to be judged excellent it U][\ ZMÆMK\ Q\[ \MZZWQZ WN WZQOQV 1\ Q[V¼\ WVTa \PM OZIXM ^IZQM\a \PI\ KWV\ZQJ]\M[ \W \PM ÅVIT ZMT\ but also the territory (top soil, deep soil, climate, microclimate, exposure) and the hand of the grower, the knowledge that is handed down generation to generation about both the work in the vineyard and the technology in the wine cellar. Grenache is a grape that produces wines of character that join the warm soul of the Mediterranean to a TQOP\ MI[a\WLZQVS JWLa UIZSML Ja ÅVM[[M IVL elegance. The grape is appreciated around the
world because of its capacity to give wines of many types, from the freshest vintages to Riserve, from dried grape versions to NWZ\QĂ…MLWVM[KPI[>QV[,W]`6I\]ZMTNZWU*IVa]T[8MZPIX[ these are the reasons that the Conseil Interprofessionnel des >QV[ L] :W][[QTTWV WZOIVQbML \PM Ă…Z[\ QV\MZVI\QWVIT KWUXM\Qtion, Grenaches du Monde. The event, launched in 2013, is now in its third year: the most recent edition was held in February. .WZ\PMĂ…Z[\\PZMMaMIZ[Q\\WWSXTIKMQV8MZXQOVIVJ]\[\IZ\QVO next year, the truly international aspect of the competition will JMKWV[WTQLI\ML_Q\PIVMLQ\QWVQV;IZIOWbbIÂš<PMKWUXM\Q\QWV Q[WXMV\WITT\PMXZWL]KMZ[WN /ZMVIKPM[Âş[Ia[.IJZQKM:QM] president of the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Rous[QTTWVÂšIVL_MIZM^MZaPIXXa\WJMIJTM\WWZOIVQbM\PM edition in Aragona. For 2017 and 2018, we already have candidates â€“ Terra Alta in Catalonia, and Sardinia. Weâ€™ve been very PIXXa _Q\P \PM Ă…Z[\ \PZMM MLQ\QWV[Âş KWV\QV]M[ :QM] ÂšIVL \PM numbers speak for themselves. From 364 samples presented in 2013, we have reached 485 this year, with almost 200 wineries from six countries taking part. We had 80 jury members from around the world, including journalists, enologists and sommeTQMZ[LMKQLQVOWVJZWVbM[QT^MZIVLOWTLUMLIT_QVVMZ[Âş So how did the competition work out? How did Italy do? An increase of 54% participants over the year before led to an increase of 115% in medal winners. Two new regions (Liguria and Umbria) joined Sardinia and the Veneto, and of 57 samples, 14 received medals. Sardinia with its red wines was the region most in the spotlight, with 12 medal-winners among the 48 wines presented. So weâ€™ll see you in Spain with our Cannonau, Gamay del Trasimeno and Tai Rosso. Sorry, we meant to say Grenache.
)&3&"3&5)& *5"-*"/13*;& 8*//&34 GOLD MEDALS 1. Cannonau di Sardegna Carros â€™11 | f.lli Puddu
2. Cannonau di Sardegna Cl. D53 â€™11 | Cantina di Dorgali 3. Trasimeno Gamay Divina Villa â€™11 | Cantina del Trasimeno 4. Cannonau di Sardegna Kuentu Ris. â€™08 | Poderi Atha Ruja 5. Cannonau di Sardegna Mariano IV â€™10 | Cantine Deidda 6. Vasca 50 â€™05 | Meloni Vini 7. Cannonau di Sardegna Violante de Carroz â€™10 | Cantina Ogliastra
SILVER MEDALS 1. Cannonau di Sardegna Horreum â€™12 | Abele Melis 2. Colli Berici â€™12 | Piovene Porto Godi 3. Cannonau di Sardegna Sincaru â€™12 | Vigne Surrau 4. Sole Ruju â€™13 | Vigne Surrau
BRONZE MEDALS 1. Ajana â€™11 | Ferruccio Deiana 2. Cannonau di Sardegna Vigna di Isalle â€™13 | Cantina di Dorgali 3. Cannonau di Sardegna â€™12 | Vigne Deriu ÂŠ Aglyphoto66 civr grenaches du monde
13 MARCH 2015
Marinara COSTA D'AMALFI ROSATO verdicchio
Margherita PROSECCO COLFONDO (SUR LIE)
Buffalo mozzarella &cherry tomatoes FIANO DI AVELLINO
& WINE Pepperoni (we call it Diavola!) MORELLINO DI SCANSANO
Vegetarian SOAVE CLASSICO
Ham&Mushrooms MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO CERASUOLO
Zucchini blossom&anchovies OP PINOT NERO BRUT
WINE OF THE MONTH
Good first take! ZAGREO '13 I CACCIAGALLI 3,000 bottles ex-cellar price: 9.00 euros This year sees a debut among the full-length XZWĂ…TM[ NWZ \PQ[ aW]VO WXMZI\QWV QV \PM )T\W Casertano area, between Teano and Caianello, which treated us to some of the most surprising tastings in the whole region. It is here, on the [TWXM[WN \PMM`\QVK\^WTKIVW:WKKIUWVĂ…VI\PI\ Diana Iaccannone and Mario Basco set up their biodynamic winemaking project, using only native aMI[\[ M[KPM_QVO Ă…T\MZQVO IVL KTIZQĂ…KI\QWV IVL keeping sulphites to a minimum. The Falanghina Aorivola is macerated on the skins for 12 hours IVL\PMV^QVQĂ…MLQV[\MMTJ]\_M_IV\\WNWK][WV \PM BIOZMW ZMTMI[ML NWZ \PM Ă…Z[\ \QUM \PQ[ aMIZ matured in amphorae. And it is precisely the ZaOZMW NZWU Ă…IVW OZIXM[ \PI\ XZW^ML \W JM one of the best new entries in our regional tests. It displays important structure, brimming with blos[WU[IVLPQV\[WN ZM[QVOZMMV\MIIVLIZQKPTaĂ†Ivoured palate with extraordinary thrust, complex XZWOZM[[QWVIVLOWWLTMVO\P<PMĂ…VQ[PQ[[QUXTa outstanding, with a savoury touch. What a wonderful matching with crispy breaded pork chops.
16 MARCH 2015
@cetelina veni, vidi vino
@ReverseWineSnob A highly educational infographic on the types of beverage glasses...
@Whitehalllane “Wine is older than history. Humans didn’t invent wine. We discovered it.” – Philip Sheldon.
@ChaumetteWinery “Spilling your glass of wine is the adult equivalent of letting go of a balloon”
@WineCenturyAZ “If I ever go missing, I want my picture on a wine bottle instead of a milk carton...”
@alawine “Need a drink? Here are the 10 best vacations for #wine lovers”
@winetoys Wino Clock
@EllaLister Global wine auction sales +5.5% in 2014 to $350m. US retakes ground frm Asia.
The Wine Wankers
@winewankers “If you forgot the wine, go home!”
17 MARCH 2015
by Marco Sabellico
ITALY-AUSTRALIA ROUND TRIP
One of the greatest wine-producing countries in the world, Australia, loves Italian labels. Hereâ€™s what we found in Melbourne and Sydney
On February 26, 450 trade operators and wine enthusiasts crowded into an historic hotel, The Windsor, in 5MTJW]ZVM NWZ \PM KQ\aÂź[ Ă…Z[\ Gambero Rosso tour. About 30 producers and 120 wines _MZMWV\PM[KMVMÂš<I[\MIVL wine consumption are changQVOÂş M`XTIQVML 5I` )TTMV noted food/wine journalist for
important Australian publica\QWV[ Âš?MÂźZM UW^QVO JMaWVL the stereotypes. Weâ€™re experimenting with many varieties beyond the ten most popular ones. Italy, with its thousand grape varieties and territories, Q[QV[XQZQVO][Âş5I`)TTMVTML one of the two afternoon seminars about wines and grape ^IZQM\QM[Âš8ZW[MKKW,7+IVL Lambrusco are great market successes, but the Australian
consumer has an attentive and competent palate. Weâ€™ve been making wine here for more \PIV aMIZ[Âş KWV\QV]ML )TTMVÂš6W_ _MÂźZM TWWSQVO NWZ wines that express their territory, that have a careful rapport with the environment. We really appreciate what Italy has JMMVLWQVOQV\PQ[Ă…MTLÂş <PM )][\ZITQIV UIZSM\' Âš1V 2014, Australian wine imports amounted to 460 million euros. New Zealand dominated the market with 219 million euros worth. France was next, with 157 million euros, mostly Champagne. Their shares were ZM[XMK\Q^MTa IVL Âş Sandro Mariani told us, a trade analyst who has studied this UIZSM\ NWZ aMIZ[ Âš1\ITa Q[ QV third place, with a value of 39.7 million euros, an 8.6% market share, but growth is strong comXIZML\W]X Âş
On March 2, our tour moved to Sydney to welcome over 500 people in the reception room of City Hall. The guest of honor was, Huon Hooke, the country’s best-known wine writer and author of its most authoritative guide to Australian wines (www.huonhooke. KWU¹1VaMIZ[\PM)][\ZIlian panorama has changed. Just look at the wine lists in res\I]ZIV\[º [IQL 0]WV ¹4IZOM wineries used to dominate the scene. Now these are concentrated on export and retail. Restaurateurs look for the small, quality up-and-coming wineries. The range of imported wines has increased incredibly, and Italy is in demand. We TWWSNWZLQ^MZ[Q\aº Seminars were crowded, and the wines and spumanti on tour _MZMU]KPILUQZML¹1\¼[OZMI\ to see interest in our sparkling _QVM[ OZW_º 4]KQI *IZbIV NZWU \PM .ZIVKQIKWZ\I ÅZU
1T 5W[VMT \WTL ][ ¹<PM[M IZM important occasions for getting to a market with great poten\QITº¹1\ITa_Q\PQ\[_QVM[NWWL and art culture, is fascinating NWZ )][\ZITQIV[º [IQL .MLMZQco Zanellato, one of Sydney’s UW[\ IXXTI]LML KPMN[ ¹<PQ[ 19 MARCH 2015
is the moment to have people get to know our truest culture, the most authentic and innova\Q^MQV\MZXZM\I\QWV[WN W]ZÅVM ingredients. There’s a yearning for the wonderful, good things that come from Italy, and it’s VW\WVTaPMZMQV)][\ZITQI°º
by William Pregentellio
GIUSEPPE TENTORI One-way Chicago-Milano
Travel for a chef is at least as important as professional training. Giuseppe Tentori, after his degree from hotel school, began his training in a Milanese restaurant, Antica Rampina. Then he had an opportunity to go to the United ;\I\M[ ¹)\ ! aMIZ[ WTL I had a call from Gabriel Viti. He invited me to work at Gabriel’s, his restaurant in Highwood, Illinois, near Chicago, on the shore WN 4ISM 5QKPQOIVº ;W from Lodi, in Lombardy, young Giuseppe Tentori NW]VLPQU[MTN QVIZMÅVML French-inspired kitchen. His next stop was another lake, but this time in Utah, Salt Lake City, where he became sous-chef at the Metropolitan, famous for its innovative American menu. After two years there, another opportunity arose – this time from Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, where he worked for nine years. The last two he was chef de cuisine, perfecting his techniques and shaping his own philosophy of cooking based on complex but well-conceived and balanced dishes. The big challenge came in 2007 when he moved to *WSIIT[WQV+PQKIOWI[-`MK]\Q^M+PMN¹*MNWZM1
came, Boka’s food was occasionally very fatty. People loved that restaurant, but the dishes were ones aW] KW]TL ÅVL IVa_PMZM They were pretty basic IVLVW\\WWPMIT\Paº<PM change was dramatic, and Michelin bestowed one of its prestigious stars for four years running. Giuseppe’s cucina now is elegant and mature. He manages to integrate speKQIT IVL ZMÅVML QVOZMLQents into perfectly executed dishes, and has chosen to eliminate the use of milkbased products, using olive oil and broths instead. With the opening of GT Fish&Oyster in March, 2011, the chef made it possible for a wider public to become familiar with PQ[ IXXZWIKP ZMLMÅVQVO the concept of American seafood cooking. He was rewarded by a number of prizes and with public appreciation. The story doesn’t end there. In the autumn of 2014, Tentori decided to open another restaurant, GT Prime, completely dedicated to meat and its various cuts. He emphasizes the products of local farmers and seasonal ingredients, two characteristics that have become the chef ’s trademark.
20 MARCH 2015
TOUR 2015 HOUSTON April 21, 2015 houston
MEXICO CITY April 23, 2015 mexico city
TAIPEI May 11, 2015 taipei
BEIJING May 15, 2015 beijing INFO: email@example.com
tel. +39 06 55112234
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The Â union Â of Â wines Â makes Â the Â strength B or n Â in Â 2 01 0, Â t he Â â€œCons orzio Â Ex port Isol a Â de l Â So leâ€? Â aims Â t o Â int ernat ionali ze t h e Â tr a dition Â of Â Sicilian Â wine. Â Wit h Â t h e Â accessio n Â o f Â five Â Sic ilian Â leading Â c omp a n i es Â i n Â th e Â w in e Â s ec t or, Â t he Â C ons orz io Â Ex p or t Â Isol a Â de l Â So le Â is Â able Â t o Â meet Â t h e Â ch al l e n ges Â of Â a Â global Â market . Co n so r zio Â E xport Â Is ola Â del Â Sole Â lea d s a Â com pl ex Â and Â det ailed Â bus ines s Â dev el op m e n t Â program Â t hat Â has , as Â pr im ar y Â purpos e, Â t he Â int ernat iona l Â pro m otion Â o f Â t he Â ent repreneurs hip of Â th e Â in su l ar Â wine.
Consorzio Â Export Â Isola Â del Â Sole
(IF8+NQNUUTs+ZWSFWN 2J.YFQ^ 9JQs+F] www.consorzioisoladelsole.it firstname.lastname@example.org
The Â Enologica Â CassarĂ Â company Â S.r.l. Â is Â located Â at Â Alcamo, Â city Â of Â significant wine Â tradition, Â famous Â for Â the Â production of Â Alcamo Â White. The Â building Â is Â situated Â on Â the Â State Â Road Â 113 Â Km Â 335 Â + Â 300, Â in Â contrada Â Fiume. It Â occupies Â a Â total Â area Â of Â 34.850 Â meters Â squared, Â 3.000 Â of Â which Â are Â covered.. The Â major Â part Â of Â the Â grapes Â used Â are Â produced Â on Â the Â family Â farm Â : Â 100 Â hectares Â which Â are Â extended Â between Â 250 Â and Â 450 Â meters Â above Â sea Â level, Â where Â vines Â such Â as Â Catarratto, Â Insolia, Â Chardonnay, Â Sauvignon, Â Grillo, Â Nero Â dâ€™Avola, Â Merlot, Â Cabernet, Â and Â Shiraz Â are Â cultivated. Â
Established in 1958, the Cantine Amato is the perfect meeting point between quality and tradition in the international wine production. Thanks to a careful selection and processing of the grapes from the warm land of Sicily, the oenological results of the company spill, today as yesterday, all the scents and flavors of a time.
The Costantino company is located on the South East side of the Etna in Viagrande in the province of Catania. Our winery exists since 1699. Our vineyards, with a density between 5.000 and 8.000 vines per hectare, are located between 450 and 550 meters above sea level. We cultivate entirely Etna's vines, in the total respect of the territory, in order to produce with a biological certification since many years. Only grapes produced on our single land are transformed in our Doc Wine.
With 5.000 hectares of vineyards located in the Trapani and Agrigento provinces, and a production of about 10% of the total volume of wine produced in the region, the ERMES wineries are at the top of Sicilian wine production. The interests toward the foreign markets have led ERMES to invest in new production plants in Salemi, Marsala and Gibellina, and to increase new culture from Sicilian and international origins.
CA.VI.FUR (Cantina Vinicola Furnarese) was founded in 1998 by a team of winemakers and growers. While continuing the tradition of the Sicilian land, CA.VI.FUR also aligns the strategies of the international markets. In few years, CA.VI.FUR has refined its production capacity by investing in research and development, in order to always get the highest quality from its grapes.
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
Sirmian Timeless Pinot Bianco
24 MARCH 2015
irmian is a Pinot Bianco for the ages. It comes from thirteen hectares of meticulously cared-for vineyard growing between 550 and 750 meters above sea level on the Alpine slopes of Nalles. The winery, Nals Margreid, is one of the most scrupulous among Alto Adige’s admirable cooperatives. In charge of the technical aspects of its winemaking is Harald Schraffl: at 25, he was the youngest-ever enologist of the Peter Zimmer winery.
Even before that, he had worked at the renowned Cantina San Michele Appiano. Since 2005 he has headed the work at Nalles. Like many Alto Adige winemakers, Harald is a man of few words and immense hard work, not exactly a media star. As a trained agronomist, he learned enology in the field, and exemplifies the modern view of wine as a continual process from the vineyard to the winemaking cellar. He is in charge of and coordinates the labor of 140 cooperative members, each of whom works, on average, one hectare. He explains, ¹1V \PM ^QVMaIZL _M _WZS QV \PM UW[\ VI\]ral way possible. We don’t use herbicides. We preserve the natural harmony and balance of the vegetation cycle. In recent years, to fully exploit this work, we vinify each plot of land separately, which amounts to a total of 150 tanks. We use 15 of these to produce Sirmian,
which allows us to blend wine from lower altitude plots where there’s more structure, with that from higher zones, where acidity is more M^QLMV\º:M[MIZKPIVLQVVW^I\QWVIZMLQZMK\ed at understanding each vineyard, the effects of altitude, exposition and soil on individual plots. This is the direction of modern enology, after the excessive interventional philosophy of the 1990s and early 2000s. His winemaking facilities are beautiful, and blend perfectly into the countryside. But above all, the winery is functional. The goal is to reduce waste and energy consumption. ¹1V\PMTI[\aMIZ[W]ZSVW_TMLOMWN KTWVM[ has increased exponentially. We know how the varieties respond to each territory. Once, the plants were more vigorous and produced a lot, so selection was pitiless. Today, we prefer to have harmonious growth with plants that produce little and have smaller bunches. The goal is natural selection. Over the last 15 years, Alto Adige has undergone a generational changeover. Now we have a great group of young enologists who talk to each other, see each other, think along the same lines, share information and research. Today, enologists have to pay attention to the vineaIZL[KWWZLQVI\M_Q\POZIXMOZW_MZ[º What’s the secret behind Sirmian Pinot Bianco’s longevity? ¹<PMZMIZM\PZMMXIZ\[\W\PMIV[_MZ<PMÅZ[\ element is position, our altitude, which results in the slow ripening of the grapes until late October, amazing temperature excursions and very high acidity. The second is the morainic soil, rich in deposited rocks, above all marl and OVMQ[[)VLÅVITTa\PMM`\ZIWZLQVIZa[TWXMWN the vineyards, that means simply perfect drainage, elevated aeration and a particularly active [\ZI\]UWN P]U][º
About 30% of Pinot Bianco ages in large, 4,000-liter tanks. Production amounts to 35,000 bottles – a large amount, considering the quality of the wine. The winery’s entire production has admirable solidity: Sauvignon Mantele, for example, has been growing enormously in recent years in terms of complexity and fragrance. Thanks to the work of winery manager Gottfried Pollinger, the wines IZM\ZI^MTTQVONIZ\PMZIÅMTL.WZMQOV[ITM[IUW]V\\W 50% of the total.
26 MARCH 2015
27 MARCH 2015
VINO COVER STORY
SIRMIAN VERTICAL TASTING 2013 | 91
coherent echoes of herbs, and citrusy sensations. Finish is still richly fresh and energetic _Q\P I _WVLMZN]T ÅVIT VW\M WN TMUWV OZI[[ What character! This was the White Wine of the Year for the Vini d’Italia 2014 guide.
Initial aromas are incisive – fresh grass and ginger on a delicately smoky background. Impact on the palate is softer than expected, juicy, warm and energetic, with tones of citron IVL JMZOIUW\ <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ [\QTT KTW[ML ]X but underneath is a sense of material that is X][PQVO]XIVL[MMU[\W[Ia¹?IQ\NWZUMIVL 1¼TTZM_IZLaW]º
2010 | 92
The 2010 vintage year was very cool and linear all over Italy. However, in Alto Adige, the summer was warmer and drier than in other regions. A wonderful note of chamomile opens the olNIK\WZa XZWÅTM \PMV IXZQKW\ KQ\Z][ NZ]Q\ IVL I central note of white pepper. In the mouth, it gives the idea of a wine that has found peace, Q\[W_VLQUMV[QWV"^MZaJITIVKMLJM\_MMVÆW-
2012 | 93
?WVLMZN]T [MV[I\QWV[ WN _QTL ÆW_MZ[ IVL IZWmatic herbs along with fragrant tones of orange peel. The palate is sinuous, vibrantly savory, nervous and energetic, with tones of almond, 28
ral notes, acidity perfectly integrated with struc\]ZM IVL I ÅVQ[P \PI\ TMVO\PMV[ [TW_Ta J]\ QVexorably. Delicate and intense, it is worryingly easy to drink.
2008 | 89
A rainy year gave us a wine with two sides. On WVM PIVL IV M^WT^ML WTNIK\WZa XZWÅTM _Q\P tones of dried fruit, walnuts and hazelnuts, a touch of honey that becomes, with time and oxygen, smokier, between peat and black tea. A palate you don’t expect: incisive, salt and citrus fruit, with great energy. Salivation is very pronounced, lengthening and deepening the wine. Its aromatic character doesn’t follow along parallel lines. An edgy wine that has a very original XZWÅTM
1998 | 88
The color is an identikit, an intense yellow with an amber rim that takes us back 17 vintage
aMIZ[<PMÅZ[\[MV[I\QWVQ[TQSM\PI\WN MV\MZQVO a coffee-roasting shop, a suffused note of coffee, then hazelnut, but also still-fragrant tones of tangerine. The palate is fat, dense, and full of aMTTW_NZ]Q\KPI[IXZQKW\IVLXMIKP)\ÅZ[\ it seems like a wine from southern Italy, but it KPIVOM[XIKMWV\PMÅVQ[P_Q\PVW\M[WN [\WVM ÆQV\[\WVMIVLIZXZQ[QVO^MZ\QKITXZWOZM[[QWV
1986 | 94
The next to last bottle in the cellar. The color is still surprisingly compact, with a highlights that are actually green. The vintage year was exceptionally late in this zone: the harvest was on October 24. A wonderful impact of hydrocarbons, white pepper, ginger, ripe lemon. The palate is incredibly precise, creamy and full of energy; sensations of salt and toasted almonds. On the ÅVQ[P[XQKQMZ[MV[I\QWV[IXXMIZKWZQIVLMZ\PMV lemon grass and basil. In aging, the wine found grace and a knowing, relaxed character.
by Antonio Boco, Giuseppe Carrus, Gianni Fabrizio and Eleonora Guerini
TUSCANY En primeur 30 MARCH 2015
his is the second group of anteprima tastings of Italian wine’s key denominations. In the last issue, we concentrated on Amarone 2011. This time we move to Tuscany for a triple crown: Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Chianti Classico. In Montalcino, the 2010 vintage of Brunello, one that wine writMZ[PILPQOPPWXM[NWZN]TÅTTML all expectations and proved to be a year to remember, one of the best in decades. In Montepulciano, Vino Nobile was on stage, a denomination that improves in both quality and numbers year after year. Exports in 2014 were up 4% over 2013, reaching an historic high of 80% of its product sold abroad. The vintage presented was 2012, a year characterized by a fairly dry winter, a cool month of May and a very hot summer, weather which led to mature wines, rich in taste contrasts. The Tuscan review closes with Chianti Classico: the tasting brought us 2013, with wines that were fresh and energetic; 2012 Riserve labels with their ups and downs; high quality and peaks of excellence for the Gran Selezione 2011, a type of bottle that today takes up 10% of the most prized Chianti Classico vineyards, requiring only estate-owned grapes and minimum aging of 30 months in the bottle.
31 MARCH 2015
EN PRIMEUR OLI D’ITALIA | TUSCANY 2015
by Gianni Fabrizio and Eleonora Guerini
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 As we hoped during past years of Chianti Classico and Barolo tastings (just \WUMV\QWV\_WQUXWZ\IV\LMVWUQVI\QWV[\PM^QV\IOMaMIZKWVÅZU[Q\[ greatness in Montalcino as well. Elegance and extraordinary drinkability are Q\[[ITQMV\\ZIQ\[\PIVS[\W[\IQVMLIKQLQ\a\PI\I[ZM[^MZaTWVOR]QKaÅVQ[PM[IVLUI\]ZMQVKQ[Q^M\IVVQV[<PMaMIZQ[IÅVMWVMIVL_M¼TTJM\Q\_QTT N]TÅTTQ\[XZWUQ[MW^MZ\QUMZM^MITQVO\PMTWVOM^Q\aQVQ\[LVI.WTTW_QVOIZM notes about the wines that most impressed us during the anteprima tasting orOIVQbMLJa\PM+WV[WZbQW<PM»WNÅKQIT¼ZI\QVO[NWZ\PMVM`\>QVQL¼1\ITQIO]QLM will not be out for months.
32 MARCH 2015
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Le Chiuse
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Fuligni
www.fuligni.it A beautiful, brilliant ruby red color, with a garnet rim properly evolved. The nose is intense and unusual, with a fairly closed attack that then opens on notes of dried herbs and tobacco with a characteristic hint of rosemary against a very clean fruity background. The palate unfurls with great elegance, both in its tannic development and wonderful freshness. A wine with personality and a very persistent ÅVQ[P
www.lechiuse.com A handsome ruby-garnet color, intense and brilliant. Intense nose but still very closed, with aromas of Peruvian bark and tobacco that slowly appear, giving complexity and energy \W\PMNZ]Q\ZMVLMZQVO\PMXZWÅTMI[I _PWTM ÅVM IVL KWUXTM` <PM XITI\M is rich but progressive. Extraordinary tannic presence lends great austerity, supported by equally powerful acidity and substance that lead to an intermiVIJTMÅVQ[P)KTI[[QK
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Poggio Antico
www.poggioantico.com An intense and brilliant color, properly evolved. This Brunello has an QV\MV[M IVL ^MZa ZMÅVML VW[M I[ \PM winery style demands, bringing plump and fresh fruit together with hints of [XQKM[IVL[_MM\\WJIKKWNWZIXZWÅTM of great elegance and complexity. Not enormous in the mouth, it is dense and savory though, with progressive \IVVQV[ IVL I OZIVL NZM[P X]TXa ÅVQ[P7^MZÆW_QVO_Q\PKPIZIK\MZ
Brunello di Montalcino Altero 2010 | Poggio Antico
www.poggioantico.com Ruby color, still very young, as demonstrated by a rim that is not very pronounced. The nose is intense, but closed, not completely expressed, with a good note of fresh fruit in the foreground, followed by sensations of tobacco and licorice. Complexity will certainly arrive with time. Extraordinary acidity lends brushstrokes of freshness to an excellent, though not enormous structure, with just a hint of greater density and persistence in comparison to the non-cru version.
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Poggio di Sotto
www.poggiodisotto.com Intense and already very complex nose, with classic aromas that range from tobacco to fruit liqueur, then licorice and
33 MARCH 2015
medicinal herbs. A blaze of sensations ZMVLMZ[\PM_QVMÅVMIVL^MZaKWUXTM` right from the opening scents. The palate is seductive and tannic at the same time, with dense but always graceful \IVVQV[4WVOÅVQ[P^MZaNZM[PIVLM`tremely elegant.
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Salvioni La Cerbaiola
www.aziendasalvioni.com A substantial and very complex nose, _Q\PIÅVMJITIVKMJM\_MMV\PM[_MM\VM[[WN \PMNZ]Q\I[LMÅVMLJaVW\M[WN jam and fruit liqueur, and the freshness of the balsamic component, with great sensations of medicinal herbs. The palI\MQ[[I^WZaIVLZQKPJMVMÅ\QVONZWU UIOVQÅKMV\ [\IQVQVO IKQLQ\a \PI\ TMVL[IOZIVLÅVITMI[_MTT\PIVS[\W powerfully dense tannin.
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Sesti Castello di Argiano
www.sestiwine.com Complex and multi-faceted nose, with a procession of fresh fruity notes, above all cherry, and spicy tones, embellished with aromas of tobacco, licorice and leather. Incredible in the mouth, harmonious and dense, with mature, progressive tannins that are vibrant and incisive. A juicy, brilliant and very long ÅVQ[P)\Z]TaOZMI\KTI[[QKVW\M_WZ\Pa now and in the future.
Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto 2010 | Mastrojanni
www.mastrojanni.com An intense nose, although not yet completely expressed, showing great promise with clean and fresh cherry fruit tones, but also with spices and dried herbs of great complexity. The palate is full and pulpy, but never excessively so, thanks to acidity and dense tannins that maintain the style and provide length.
EN PRIMEUR OLI D’ITALIA | TUSCANY 2015
Outsiders Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie 2010| Il Marroneto
www.ilmarroneto.com Fairly intense and youthful ruby garnet color. The nose is initially closed, but opens soon on fascinating mineral notes and fresh fruit. In the glass, with time, more and more complex sensations MUMZOM\PIVS[\WÆWZITIVLMIZ\PaIZWmas that embellish a bouquet that retains its cleanliness. The mouth is taut and slender, with impressive harmony and length, but no excess or frills of any sort.
Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Vecchia 2010 | Le Ragnaie
www.leragnaie.com Its color might make you erroneously think of a wine already in an evolutionary phase, but just bring the glass to your nose to sense the great vitalQ\a 1V\MV[M ZMÅVML NZIOZIVKM[ _Q\P tenuous notes of tobacco and ripe red berries, then Peruvian bark and licorice, and above all, a powerful note of black cherry. The palate is solid and sustained by splendid acidic backbone that balances its richness, without upsetting the essential style of the wine. )^MZaTWVOÅVQ[P
Brunello di Montalcino Vigna delle Raunate 2010 | Mocali
A light, brilliant, vibrant ruby-garnet color. Nose is intense and certainly in part still unexpressed, but already showing a certain complexity, with good notes of tobacco and sweet spices balIVKQVONZM[PKTMIVNZ]Q\>MZaÅVMXITI\M with youthful sensations, solid but delicately expressed. Finish is harmonious and very persistent.
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Podere Sesta di Sopra
www.sestadisopra.it Brilliant color bears witness to its youth.
<PM VW[M Q[ PIZUWVQW][ IVL ZMÅVML playing with the complexity of notes of licorice and tobacco, fruit and medicinal herbs. In the mouth, solid and austere, its tannic backbone supported by fruitiness and freshness. A wine already displaying amazing length, but with time, it will display more fascinating traits. A true marathon runner.
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 | Tenuta Le Potazzine
www.lepotazzine.it A slightly evolved color should not distract. Instead, the nose shows the wine’s amazing youthful energy: in\MV[M IVL NN][ML ZMÅVML IVL JITanced, with mineral and fruit notes already in perfect harmony before 34 MARCH 2015
tobacco and spices appear – a complex chorus. The palate is minimalist, marvelously classic, sustained by crisp IKQLQ\aIVL\IVVQKÅVM[[MQV\WITWVO XZIK\QKITTaQV\MZUQVIJTMÅVQ[P
Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 2010 | Tenuta Caparzo
www.caparzo.com Intense although still closed nose, disXTIaQVO OZMI\ ÅVM KWUXTM` [MV[I\QWV[ of fruit enriched by hints of elegant, harmonious licorice and tobacco. Potent but harmonious in the mouth, with important tannins and great acidic NZM[PVM[[\PI\ITTW_[\PMÅVQ[P\WXMZ[Q[\ with a classic savory impact.
Best Buys Brunello di Montalcino 2010| Uccelliera
www.uccelliera-montalcino.it Dense, brilliant ruby color, lively and youthful. On the nose, sensations of ripe, concentrated fruit that merge with notes of spices, medicinal herbs, Peruvian bark and damp soil. The palate is extraordinary for its fullness and density, without TW[QVOQVNZM[PVM[[\PIVS[\WIÅVM\IVVQK _MI^M\PI\MVVWJTM[\PMÅVQ[P
Brunello di Montalcino 2010| Caprili | www.caprili.it
Color slightly evolved. Nose is deep, with a light, intriguing earthy, animal note lending complexity to sensations of Peruvian bark and fruit. The nose is not very elegant, but has great character. The palate is portentous and generous, with dense, progressive tanins and a very long, R]QKaÅVQ[PWN OZMI\QUXIK\
Brunello di Montalcino I Poggiarelli 2010 | La Mannella
Brunello di Montalcino 2010| Tenuta di Sesta
www.lamannella.it A deep ruby color with hints of garnet. An intense nose in which initially fruit dominates, but then leaves room for a wonderful, perfectly integrated spicy note. The mouth is powerful but also fresh and taut, with dense, progressive tannins sustained by good acidity that TMVO\PMV\PMÅVQ[P
www.tenutadisesta.it An intense, evolved, very fascinating nose, with notes of Peruvian bark and medicinal herbs, in particular rosemary, followed by fairly fresh fruit, above all if you consider the zone. Very complex and rich overall personality that, typically, focuses more on substance and longevity than on drinkabilQ\a4WVOX]TXaÅVQ[P
Brunello di Montalcino 2010| Lazzeretti
Brunello di Montalcino 2010| Fattoi
www.vinilazzeretti.it A wonderful nose has immediate imXIK\ 1\ Q[ PIZUWVQW][ IVL ZMÅVML with notes of tobacco and spices that embellish sensations of fruit and spice. Elegance joins complexity. The palate is notably rich and juicy, thanks to vibrant acidity and great tannic progression that OQ^M[IVM`\ZMUMTaTWVOÅVQ[P
35 MARCH 2015
www.fattoi.it Generous, fairly elegant nose, with notes of tobacco and licorice that lend complexity to ripe fruit aromas. The palate has extraordinary density and power, still not fully balanced, with tight, severe, J]\VW\LZa\IVVQV[<PMÅVQ[PQ[PIZL but its future is promising.
EN PRIMEUR OLI Dâ€™ITALIA | TUSCANY 2015
by Antonio Boco
Chianti Classico Collection
BADIA A COLTIBUONO
Chianti Classico 2013 Chianti Classico 2013 | Val delle Corti
www.valdellecorti.it If you asked us for a name among Chianti Classico labels that we love to drink at any \QUM_Q\PW]\IVaW\PMZ[XMKQĂ…KI\QWV[_M would probably answer Val delle Corti. The Radda winery, which seemed promising right from the start, has, over time demonstrated truly remarkable reliability and style. Their wines are delicious and serious at the same time, immediately pleasurable but also worth waiting to drink. Hats off.
Chianti Classico 2013 | Isole e Olena
Although they are capable of making great wines, for example the glorious Supertuscan Cepparello, Isole e Olena has
Chianti Classico Collection is one of the yearâ€™s key events for taking the measure of the new vintages from one of Italyâ€™s most prestigious denominations. This year, the motto chosen by the Consorzio was â€œTogetherâ€?, a reference to the great unity among the territoryâ€™s wineries, small and large, which, whatever their differences, are bonded by the Gallo Nero symbol. Some numbers: at Leopolda, the traditional prestigious location for the event, 149 wineries were present, offering 517 labels to taste. A total of 6,200 bottles were available to the scores of critics and journalists coming from over 30 countries and to the 1,300 trade operators XZM[MV\)Ă…Z[\UUQVO]XWN \PM^QV\IOMaMIZ[I^IQTIJTM NWZ\I[\QVOKWVĂ…ZUMLM`XMK\I\QWV[WN IXTMI[IV\KIpable of fresh, energetic, typically Chianti-style, easy-todrink wines. The 2012 bottles were more questionable, VW\IT_Ia[IJTM\WĂ…VL\PMZQOP\[PILQVOIVLWKKI[QWVITTa monolithic, although obviously there were exceptions. The 2011 was better, on average, with good and even excellent wines on show, depending on the house and the subzone. not always made it into our top listings for vintage Chianti Classico. But this year, they released a majestic 2013 of great in\MV[Q\aIVLĂ†I^WZ_Q\PI^QJZIV\LMMXXITate and noteworthy aromatic length.
Chianti Classico 2013 | Castellare di Castellina
www.castellare.it A wine designed to please, like those weâ€™re accustomed to getting from this PQ[\WZQK_QVMZa<PMXZWĂ…TMQ[KTI[[QK\PM color moderately intense, and the tasting silhouette admirable. Aromas suggest violets and fresh cherries while the palate is coherent and well-articulated. All is supported by delicate and crisp tannin.
Chianti Classico 2013 | Borgo Scopeto
www.borgoscopeto.com Although this isnâ€™t one of Chianti Classicoâ€™s most talked-about wineries, our \I[\QVO[KWVĂ…ZUIUIZSMLTaXW[Q\Q^M\ZMVL for Borgo Scopetoâ€™s releases. The gener36 MARCH 2015
ITTaUWLMZVXZWĂ…TMLWM[VÂź\TQUQ\KTMIZIVL clean aromas that lead into a palate of reIK\Q^MIVLĂ†I^WZN]TJ[\IVKM
Chianti Classico 2013 | Badia a Coltibuono
www.coltibuono.com The Badia has accustomed us to expecting two Chianti Classico labels on the occasion of the anteprima, one from the Gaiole vineyards and the other from those WN +I[\MTV]W^W<PMĂ…Z[\Q[UWZMLMTQKI\M subtle and vibrant, the second richer and more structured, in terms of tannin as well. Both are very good and faithful to their own subzones.
Chianti Classico 2013 | Castello di Ama
www.castellodiama.com Last year we toasted the return of Ama to the highest levels by awarding it Tre BicKPQMZQ[\I\][<PMĂ…Z[\\I[\QVO[WN \PMVM_ ^QV\IOM KWVĂ…ZU \PM XW[Q\Q^M \ZMVL IVL re-established continuity, in both qualita-
tive and stylistic terms. Violets and cherry, spices and notes of stone on the nose; solid, deep palate, rich in nuances and with great texture.
Chianti Classico 2013 | San Giusto a Rentennano
www.fattoriasangiusto.it Those who know San Giusto wines also know that they require patience and show their best qualities after years of bottle-aging. Having said this, the Chianti Classico 2013 is perfectly legible and tasty. It will certainly improve with time, but it’s already in a good place. Fruity notes, as usual very clean and delicious, meet with lightly toasty and spicy tones. A rich, harmonious wine.
Chianti Classico 2013 | Istine
www.istine.it A Chianti Classico that is a paradigm of its vintage year and the winery style. Fine aromas, fairly pale in color, with a bony, IKQLQKJWLaQ\Q[VM^MZ\PMTM[[ZQKPQVÆI^WZ IVLNIQZTaLMMX<PMÅVQ[P[\QTTUIZSMLTa hard, deserves the right bottle-aging and doesn’t compromise.
Chianti Classico 2013 | Bibbiano
www.bibbiano.com Good sensations from the Chianti Clas-
sico ’13 made by this historic winery, run today by Tommaso and Federico Marrocchesi Marzi. Bibbiano wines need time, but this Chianti Classico seems to have already opened out well. It has a wonderN]TTa I]\PMV\QK XZWÅTM MIZ\Pa IVL ÆWZIT with appealing notes of fairly mature fruit. In the mouth, coherent, quite elegant and a pleasure to drink.
Chianti Classico Riserva 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Campitello 2012 | Monteraponi
www.monteraponi.it The winery, which takes its name from an old medieval village, is in the Radda municipality, on a hill that dominates the valley of the Arbia River, at 470 meters IJW^M[MITM^MT<PMÅZUXZWL]KM[ÅVM authentically Chianti-style wines that recount the nature of their terroir as few others do. A mature and taut red, Il Campitello ’12 joins the force of fruit to
the delicacy of spices and aromatic herbs QVI[WTQLIVLÆI^WZN]TXITI\M
Chianti Classico Riserva Bugialla 2012 | Poggerino
poggerino-chianti-italy.com Poggerino is a fantastic place for winegrowing, with 43 hectares devoted to vineyards, olive groves, woods, farmhouses and even a 12th-century Church. The property belongs to the Lanza family, who produce some of the most evocative Chianti Classico labels, ones that join intense fruit, power and extraordinary ÅVM[[M<PM_QVM[IZMJITIVKMLIVLZMactive, uniting maturity and freshness to perfection, like Bugialla ’12.
Chianti Classico Riserva 2012 | Rignana
www.rignana.it Classic and multi-faceted aromas suggest notes of fresh cherry, berries, stone IVLLQNN][MÆWZIT[MV[I\QWV[I[IXZMT]LM to a precise and savory, vibrant and profound palate, both energetic and reactive. The wine is still young but shows excellent potential for growth. From sangiovese grapes with some merlot, it is aged for two years in small new and second passage oak barrels.
37 MARCH 2015
EN PRIMEUR OLI D’ITALIA | TUSCANY 2015
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011 | Tenuta di Lilliano | www.lilliano.com
The 2010 made by this winery, in our opinion, was the most interesting Gran Selezione released for the vintage year. The 2011 KWVÅZU[ \PM Y]ITQ\a WN \PM XZWRMK\ _Q\P Lilliano still at the top of our list, in terms of this super Chianti Classico. Power and MTMOIVKM ÅVM[[M IVL J[\IVKM R]QKQVM[[ and precision, admirable aromatic articulation and persistence: a great wine.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2011 | I Fabbri
www.agricolaifabbri.it Founded by the Grassi family in 2000, I Fabbri quickly became one of the most interesting small wineries in the Lamole subzone. The position of the vineyards, some of which were on the legendary terraces of the area, the altitude and the microclimate, along with the sensibility of the winemakers, led to vertical and intriguing wines. This Gran Selezione is a marvel. It unites [ML]K\Q^M NZ]Q\a VW\M[ LMTQKI\MTa ÆWZIT \W ferric and stony mineral sensations. The mouth is taut, multi-faceted, vibrant.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Monna Lisa 2011 | Vignamaggio
www.vignamaggio.it Fermentation with maceration on skins for over two weeks and barrique-aging for 18-20 months, before at least 6 months in the bottle. But what really counts is that this Gran Selezione is really good, unfurling an intense and variegated range of aromas including ripe red and black fruit as well as elegant hints of toast and spices. The palate is solid, complex, and wonderfully deep and savory.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Sergio Zingarelli 2011 | Rocca delle Macìe
www.roccadellemacie.com This important Chianti Classico winery – 600 hectares, of which 200 are vineyard – is perfecting its Gran Selezione. The 2011 version of this wine promises a OZMI\N]\]ZM1\[WTNIK\WZaXZWÅTMRWQV[NZ]Q\ and spices in a dynamic whole that leads into a complex, harmonious mouthful of noteworthy depth.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto La Casuccia 2011 | Castello di Ama
www.castellodiama.com Once again, an Ama wine is at the peak of our tastings. This time, we want to describe the impact of a truly noteworthy 38 MARCH 2015
Gran Selezione. It still has a toasty but extremely elegant patina on the nose, shapQVOIXZMKQ[MIVLIZQ[\WKZI\QKXZWÅTM<PM mouth is young and compact, elegantly KWUXW[ML _MQOP\a IVL ZMÅVML -^WT]tion in the bottle will do the rest.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colledilà 2011 | Barone Ricasoli
www.ricasoli.it A cru made from 100% sangiovese grapes grown on clayey-limestone soil that is very rich in skeleton. This is the terrain for a Gran Selezione of a judiciously modern style, with intense aromatic notes and excellent structure. The vintage year contributed ripe fruit, well-amalgamated with sensations of spices and cocoa. The palate is substantial but soft, and displays good progression.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Il Puro 2011 | Castello di Volpaia
www.volpaia.it Il Puro. An appropriate name – The Pure – for a 100% sangiovese harvested in a vineyard that peaks at almost 500 meters above sea level. Aromas suggest black cherry, blueberries, and berries in general, all integrated with sensations of toast and light cocoa. A powerful and incisive palate, balanced in its aromatic mix and extraction, poised between soft and acidic sensations.
EN PRIMEUR | TUSCANY OLI D’ITALIA 2015
by Giuseppe Carrus
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 )T\PW]OP\PMI^MZIOMY]ITQ\aWN >QVW6WJQTMLQ5WV\MX]Tciano improves from year to year, and we see much more awareness among the wineries as to which wines to bottle [\IZ\QVONZWU\PMKPWQKMWN ^QVMaIZLZQOP\\PZW]OP^QVQÅKItion), we don’t agree completely with the Consorzio’s own Å^M[\IZZI\QVONWZ\PM^QV\IOMaMIZ4WVOM[\IJTQ[PML producers, those with more experience and vineyard patrimonies consisting of old vineyards with excellent exposures, knew how to best interpret a vintage year characterized by little available water, with the consequent formation of medium-small berries and high skin-to-pulp relationship. In these cases, despite the heat, concentration of sugar in the berries was average, and the resulting wines seemed balanced to us from the point of view of their alcohol. The younger vineyards, instead, suffered more from the weather pattern, and in certain cases, we noticed overripeness joined to slightly astringent tannic concentration. In general, however, we view 2012 as a good vintage year, although very limited in terms of quantity. We recommend >QVW6WJQTMLQ5WV\MX]TKQIVWTIJMT[JLQ^QLMLIUWVO classics, best buys and outsiders. These are wines that in an amazing way showed both character and territoriality.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Avignonesi
www.avignonesi.it An historic winery, with over 200 hectares of vineyard, purchased by Virginie Saverys a few years ago. By now production totally observes the requirements of biodynamic agriculture. The 2012, a monovarietal sangiovese, is appealing for Q\[ÅVMZMLNZ]Q\WV\PMVW[MIVLI[WN\^MTvety, silky palate that is never heavy and always marked by excellent drinkability. A NZM[PLMMXKTMIVÅVQ[P
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Boscarelli
www.poderiboscarelli.com Established in 1962 on 18 hectares on Cervognano, one of the most renowned hills for the production of Nobile, today the winery is run by Paola De Ferrari Corradi, daughter of the founder, and her sons Luca and Niccolò. Nobile 2012, a blend of prugnolo gentile (85%) with canaiolo, colorino and mammolo, is characterized by aromas of dark citrus fruit and spices. On the palate, the tannic weave is important and very present, perfectly balanced by structure and deep body.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Dei
39 MARCH 2015
www.cantinedei.com Dei is an important Montepulciano winery founded in the mid-1980s. Its 50 or so hectares are located in a premium zone for Nobile production: Martiena, Bossona, La Piaggia, La Ciarliana. It is run by a grand woman winemaker, Maria Caterina Dei. We very much appreciated the 2012 Nobile, characterized by expressivity on the nose that moves between sweet spices, crisp red fruit and hints of NWZM[\ÆWWZ7V\PMXITI\MILMTQKQW][IVL long-lasting mouthful, perfectly balanced between freshness and sumptuousness.
EN PRIMEUR OLI D’ITALIA | TUSCANY 2015
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Poliziano
www.carlettipoliziano.com This is one of the landmark wineries of Montepulciano, founded in 1961 by Dino Carletti, who bought 22 hectares of land in an area particularly well-suited for the production of Nobile. Today the estate is run by Federico Carletti and has grown to about 240 hectares, of which half is vineyard. Made mostly with prugnolo gentile, Nobile 2012 is fresh and vibrant, with a dense tannic weave, but is never astrinOMV\<PMVW[MQ[LIZSIVLMIZ\Pa\PMÅVish very clean and satisfying.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Salcheto
www.salcheto.it Salcheto is one of the most important estates in the Montepulciano zone. We’re not only referring to the quality of the wine (indisputable), but also to the work carried out by the winery led by Michele Manelli regarding environmental sustainability, energy autonomy, and integrated environmental management. To that we add a very good 2012 notable for its drinkability and character. A monovarietal prugnolo gentile, it displays aromas of spices and berZQM[PQV\[WN JIT[IUIVLNWZM[\ÆWWZ<PM palate is velvety and silky, with soft, sweet \IVVQV[IVLIKTMIVÆI^WZN]TÅVQ[P
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Valdipiatta
www.valdipiatta.it The family-run winery owned by Giulio Caporali and his daughter Miriam lies
on about 22 hectares of vineyard on the hills of Montepulciano that slope down towards Val di Chiana. The Nobile 2012, mostly prugnolo gentile with some canaiolo nero, has intense aromas of blackberry, Peruvian bark and Asian spices. The palate is vibrant and very fresh, with a tight tannic weave that is never astrinOMV\IVLIR]QKaLMMXÅVQ[P
Best Buys Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Canneto
www.canneto.com The Canneto estate is 48 hectares in all, including 30 of vineyard and 4 of olive groves. Located near the Tempio di San Biagio, its vineyards are at an altitude of about 400 meters above sea level, with southwestern exposures. The Nobile 2012, prugnolo gentile with a small amount of merlot and cabernet, is aged in large Slavonian oak barrels. It is fresh ZQOP\NZWU\PMÅZ[\IZWUI[WN LIZSKQ\Z][ fruit, crisp berries and sweet spices. In the mouth, its vinosity and softness contrast well with a tight but never astringent tanVQK_MI^M<PMÅVQ[PQ[KTMIV_Q\PIXQVKP of a savory sensation.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Contucci
www.contucci.it The Contucci family is one of the oldest in Montepulciano and owns an estate of over 170 hectares, of which 21 are vineyard. The winery itself, in the heart of CROCE DI FEBO
town, is very old and can produce about 100,000 bottles annually. The Nobile 2012, made from mostly
prugnolo gentile, with some canaiolo and colorino, displays a viscous and velvety palate and a nose offering aromas of blackberry, cherry and touches of spice. <PMÅVQ[PIT\PW]OPVW\^MZaTWVOQ[KTMIV IVLÆI^WZN]T
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Talosa
www.talosa.it Talosa, a winery owned by a Roman entrepreneur, has about 32 hectares of vineyard lying in the best zones of Montepulciano. Careful attention in vineyard and cellar guarantees clean, elegant, expressive wines. The Nobile 2012 is one of the best versions tasted this year. The nose is complex, with tones of berries, sweet spicM[IVLNWZM[\ÆWWZ<PMUW]\PQ[MTMOIV\ with an excellent tannic weave, but is also fresh and wonderfully drinkable.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | La Ciarliana
www.laciarliana.it La Ciarliana is an estate of about 19 hectares, 10 of them devoted to vineyard, producing about 40,000 bottles annually. The Nobile di Montepulciano ’12 is made from prugnolo gentile with a small amount of mammolo grapes. It ages for 18 months in large barrels and barriques. In our tasting, it appeared particularly focused, with a very complex nose played on tones of dark citrus fruit and ripe red fruit. In the mouth, it is savory and velvety with a warm alcohol sensation well balanced by freshness and tannin.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Le Berne
www.leberne.it Founded by Egisto Natalini in the 1960s, today the winery is headed by his son Giuliano and agronomist grandson Andrea. The estate consists of about 18 hectares, of which about 10 are vineyard, in the Cervognano zone. The Nobile di Montepulciano ’12, made of monovarietal sangiovese grapes, appeals to us for its vertical development, its fresh acidity, wonderful tannic weave and never-heavy body. Intense on the nose, it is rich in tones of red fruit enlivened by good spicy notes.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Palazzo Vecchio
www.vinonobile.it The Palazzo Vecchio winery was founded at the end of the 1980s by Marco Sbernadori and Maria Alessandra Zorzi. They JMOIV \W XZWL]KM \PMQZ ÅZ[\ JW\\TM[ WN wine in 1990. The vineyards, positioned around the Palazzo Vecchio, are very beautiful and enjoy a particular microclimate. We particularly liked Nobile 2012. Made from prugnolo gentile and some canaiolo and mammolo grapes, it displays a nose of ripe red fruit, with hints of black pepper and dried roses. The palate is still austere, with an excellent tannic weave, but ^QJZIV\NZM[PVM[[IVLITWVO[M^MZMÅVQ[P
Nobile di Montepulciano Santa Caterina 2012 | Tre Rose
www.tenutatrerose.it Tenuta Tre Rose is part of the Bertani Domains and an important winery in the Montepulciano zone. On its 170 hectares, 70 are vineyard, of which 55 are devoted to the production of Nobile. Of the three selections produced, we particularly liked Santa Caterina, a monovarietal sangiovese wine. On the nose, complexity comes from sensations of blackberry, blueberry IVLXT]U<PMXITI\MLQ[XTIa[ÅVM\IVVQV and a wonderful freshness that leads the _QVM\WI[I^WZaÅVQ[P
Outsiders Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Il Conventino
www.ilconventino.it Il Conventino is an estate of about 25 hectares, most of it devoted to vineyards in the zones of Bossona and Ciarliana, two of the best suited for Nobile production. The vineyards are located at about 400 meters above sea level and managed according to the tenets of organic farming. The Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 is 85% prugnolo gentile with the rest coming from traditional grapes. The wine is aged in 50-hectoliter barrels. The nose is rich in red fruit and sweet spices with bal[IUQKPQV\[IVLVW\M[WN NWZM[\ÆWWZ<PM XITI\M Q[ MTMOIV\ IVL ÅVM LMTQVMI\ML Ja good acidity and by a dense tannic weave that is never astringent.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Croce di Febo
www.crocedifebo.com Croce di Febo can draw from about 9 hectares of vineyard for a small organically grown production of 20,000 bottles. Its three areas are particularly suited for the production of Nobile. The wine tasted was notable for freshness, ÅVM[[M IVL _WVLMZN]T MTMOIVKM \PI\ LM^MTWX[ ZQOP\ NZWU \PM IZWUI[" ÆWZIT spicy and berry notes lead into a easyto-drink, juicy mouthful.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Godiolo
www.godiolo.it Franco Fiorini runs a small but beautiful winery. On little more than 5 hectares in all, half is devoted to vineyards over 40 years old. Nobile di Montepulciano ’12, made almost exclusively from sangiovese grapes (and a small percentage of canaiolo and colorino naturally growing in the vineyard) displays aromas of blackberries and plums along with hints of iron and roots. Fascinating to drink, slender but deep, it is marked by a mature tannic weave and exemplary freshness.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2011 | Il Macchione
www.podereilmacchione.it A small family-run winery belonging to the Abram family. Located in Le Caggiole, it owns about 6 hectares of vineyard all dedicated to the production of Vino Nobile. The wines are released a year late, and for this reason, they presented a 2011, and we decided to make an exception, due to the excellence of the wine. <PMIZWUI[WN [UITTJMZZQM[WN ZMLÆW_ers and orange zest lead into a subtle palate, characterized by wonderful tannin IVLNZM[PIKQLQ\aTMVLQVOÅVM[[M<PMÅVish is deep, clean, and lightly savory.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Le Bertille
www.lebertille.com A beautiful winery run by the Roberti family, about 15 hectares of vineyard of which 9 are devoted to the production of Rosso and of Nobile. The estate also has an agriturismo, San Gallo, in a lovely country building. Nobile di Montepul41 MARCH 2015
ciano ’12 displays fragrances of roses, blackberries and cherries. The palate is fresh and full-bodied, with silky tannins and, helped along by good freshness, is ÅVMIVLMTMOIV\<PMÅVQ[PQ[KTMIVIVL persistent, re-evoking the tones noticeable on the nose.
Nobile di Montepulciano 2012 | Bindella
www.bindella.it *QVLMTTI Q[ I ÅVM _QVMZa TWKI\ML WV \PM grounds of the Tenuta di Vallocaia. Of its 40 hectares of vineyard, 27 are dedicated to the production of Rosso and of Nobile, located in the premium territories of Cervognano, Argiano, Sanguineto and Paterno. The Nobile 2012, prugnolo gentile with some colorino, mammolo and canaiolo grapes, offers up fragrances of plum and berries, along with hints of NWZM[\ÆWWZIVLZM[QV<PMXITI\MQ[NZM[P R]QKaIVLMI[a\WLZQVS<PMÅVQ[P[PW_[ LMV[MJ]\ÆI^WZN]TIVLUI\]ZM\IVVQV
A TASTE CALLED MADE IN SICILY. T h e Co n so r ti um C .A.M .B.R.I.A. born in S i c i l y , n owa d a y s i s a wi n e s pin n e r e t, w hich promot ed and adver ti s ed i ts f i n a l p r od u c ts . T h e Co n so r ti um, ambas s ador of t he " M a d e i n S i c i l y " i s r ea d y t o ge t th e m ain role of t he mos t imp or ta n t n a ti on a l p r od u c er s of w in e s. T h e pr o d u ced wines are born upon th e Fu r n a r i h i l l s , i n th e h ea r t of th e Ma m e rt ino Doc area, ex ac t ly on th e s l op es of t he Tin da ri Nebrodi mount ains , 4 5 km wes t of M es s i n a . T h ey ar e Prot ec t ed Geographic al In d i c a ti on an d De n om i nat ion of Prot ect ed Origi n wi n es , am on g w h ich we find local variet ie s l i ke No cer a , Ne ro d’Avola, Nerello Mas c a l es e; th er e ar e als o s mall quant it ies of wh i te gr a pe s, a ‘s hiny’ Cat arrat t o, Inzolia, Gr e can ico , Grillo and ot her quant it ies of n o n -tr a ditional grape variet ies like S y r a h an d Ch ar d onnay in a t errit ory t ha h a s a n a tu ra l and ex t raordinary pedoc l i ma ti c co n dition , a right ex pos ure t o winds a s it faces n or t h and is prot ec t ed from th e Tin d a r i - N e b rod i mount a ins ; t his represents th e ide a l condit ion t o ens ure t he eq u i l i b r a ted gr o w th o f v ines , as well as olives . It pr o m otes good mat urat ion of t he g r a p es rich in ar o ma and int eres t ing gradati on .
Furnari (Messina) Italy
A nd it is w ith great pride t hat t he Co n s or ti u m C AM B R I A p r ese n ts th e res ult of Magnificence: G i u l i o C es a r e m a m e r tin o ro s s o DOC, Nero d’Avola an d N oc er a . T he w in e h a s got t he c harm of an Emp er or, r ea d y to c o n qu er th e fut ure. T his p re ciou s jewel of dis t inguis hed f i n es s e, ob ta i n ed fr om a n ad v a nced vinificat ion proc ess a n d a c a r ef u l a g ein g ph ase in barriques , will t ouc h y ou wi th i ts u niq u e n ess, its s oft nes s , it s aut hent ic i ty a n d f or i ts u nm istaka bl e and pers is t ent aroma. T h e c ommen d a b l e o r g an ol ep tic and t as t e qualit y of t he g r a p es a n d t h e rig or of the vinificat ion, allowed t h e G i u l i o C es a r e h a s be e n a w arded bet ween “TOP HU N D R E D 20 1 3 ” , t h e be st w in es of It aly.
IT’S VINITALY TIME
he longest established and most popular international wine fair has almost reached the halfcentury mark. This year, Vinitaly, the International Wine and Spirits Exhibition, will be held in Verona on March 22-25. Its mission; support the national wine and agricultural sectors in general, with particular emphasis on export. Over time, a simple exhibition has become a platform for winery services, active all year long, both nationally and abroad. 4I[\ aMIZ¼[ ÅO]ZM[ \MTT \PM [\WZa of a success that keeps up with that of Italian wine: 4,111 exhibitors from 22 countries, 155,109 trade visitors and 1,597 journalists from all over the world came together in an exhibition space of 91,140 square meters, which, when added to the spaces dedicated to tasting, amounted to over 100,000 square meters. ¹?M TWWS NWZ_IZL \W \PM event optimistically, thanks to the bravura of our producers and, I believe, also to the support that Vinitaly has always OQ^MV\PM[MK\WZº[IQL/QW^IVVQ Mantovani, CEO and Director /MVMZIT WN >MZWVIÅMZM L]ZQVO the press conference presentQVO\PMNIQZ¹1VXIZ\QK]TIZW^MZ \PM TI[\ aMIZ[ >MZWVIÅMZM has developed many activities aimed at constructing and organizing the experience and the patrimony of the work done by
many important market leaders of the past. The objective has always been to give fundamental support to Italian wine on both the domestic and international UIZSM\[º <PM XQTI[\MZ[ WN \PQ[ support? Mantovani continued, ¹<PM XZWOZIU WN QVKWUQVO and B2B meetings is constantly growing, as are strategic activities abroad that we can group under the Vinitaly International brand. We now have an academy for sustaining the business and culture of wine, namely the Vinitaly International Academy. Online sales can go through the Vinitaly Wineclub. )VL ÅVITTa since 2014, wine2wine is the ÅZ[\ 1\ITQIV NWZ]U NWK][ML WV the wine business and dedicated to the formation and bringing together of operators in the sec\WZº <PQ[ aMIZ _QTT JM I 44 MARCH 2015
fundamental test for the Italian winegrowing sector, which has been showing solid increments in exports for some years. In a few months, EXPO will kick off QV 5QTIV >MZWVIÅMZM KWTTIJWrating with MIPAAF (Ministry of Agricultural, Food and ForM[\Za8WTQKQM[_QTTWXMV\PMÅZ[\ pavilion in the history of the Universal Exposition to be dediKI\MLM`KT][Q^MTa\W_QVM"¹>QVW I <I[\M WN 1\ITaº ¹<PM[M \_W events are closely related. We will have an opportunity to see the results of the twelve months WN _WZS \PI\ JZW]OP\ ][ PMZMº said the Agriculture Minister, 5I]ZQbQW5IZQVI¹>QVQ\ITa_QTT allow us to check up on what has been accomplished, but also to propose new objectives that go beyond the period of the -@87º
Mappa del quartiere Vinitaly 2013 F1
- Centrocongressi / Congress Centre Arena - Sale / Rooms: Bellini, Puccini, Rossini
EN OL ITE CH
INGRESSO / ENTRANCE “GIULIETTA E ROMEO”
- Sale degustazioni Pad. 8-9 Tasting Rooms Hall 8-9: A, B, C, D
his year, VeronaFiere reorganized and broadened the calendar of events dedicated to wine. Synergy with the Sol&Agrifood and Enolitech events has been increased, in order to offer trade professionals a more complete panorama of Italian production that includes quality wines, food traditions and innovative technologies.
INGRESSO / ENTRANCE “RE TEODORICO”
ABRUZZO VALLE D’AOSTA LIGURIA 11 Centroservizi dei Signori
- Area Stampa Tecnica / Wine Press Hall - Sala Stampa / Press Center
BASILICATA CALABRIA MOLISE SARDEGNA UMBRIA VENETO
7 Centroservizi Arena
5 Centroservizi “delle Erbe”
NEW POSITION vigne, vignaioli, terroir vineyards, wine-makers, terroir
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA
- Area Stampa Tecnica / Wine Press Hall
ALTO ADIGE 8
A2 LOMBARDIA A1
EMILIA ROMAGNA 1
- Taste Italy by Doctor Wine - Self Service d’ Autore
- Desk Convegni
- Trendy Oggi Big Domani
INGRESSO / ENTRANCE “CANGRANDE”
C INGRESSO / ENTRANCE “SAN ZENO”
- Coffee Experience - Grappa Tasting/Narratori del Gusto - Ristorante Goloso - Sala / Room Mantegna - Workshop FIPE - International Meeting Point
- Ristorante d’ Autore - Sale Degustazioni Palaexpo / Tasting Rooms Palaexpo: Iris, Tulipano, Orchidea - Centrocongressi / Congress Centre Europa - Sale / Rooms: Salieri, Vivaldi, Mozart, Auditorium Verdi
- Sala degustazione / Tasting Room Argento - Vip Lounge NEW POSITION - Area Blogger NEW
ininternational is once again in Pavilion I, with foreign wineries from the principal producing countries present: Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Chile, Argentina, Spain, France, Peru, Azerbaijan, Germany, Slovenia, South Africa, Georgia. Vinitalybio, will be in Pavilion 11 with organic wines, and VIVIT in Pavilion 12 with artisanal, natural and biodynamic labels. Taste Italy is changing its name to Vinitaly Tasting, IVLQ[WZOIVQbMLQVKWTTIJWZI\QWV_Q\P,IVQMTM¹,WK\WZ ?QVMº+MZVQTTQ_Q\PIP]VLZML[MTMK\MLTIJMT[ 45 MARCH 2015
Servizi Veronafiere Cittadella della Gastronomia Citadel of Gastronomy
Centro Congressi Congress Centre
Sala Stampa Press Centre
Fermata navetta Shuttle stop
Pronto Soccorso First Aid
Deposito bagagli Left luggage
Polizia di Stato Police
- Infopoint - Sate: Servizio Assistenza Tecnica Espositori - Vendita Catalogo e Guida Sale Catalogue and Guide
Verona, 22-25 March 2015
n March 22, from 11.30 to 16.30, in the Sala Argento of PalaExpo, Gambero Rosso will hold a tasting of labels that won its Tre Bicchieri award in the Vini d’Italia 2015 guide. On March 24, at 11.00, in the Sala Orchidea of Palaexpo, the curators of the guide, Gianni Fabrizio, Eleonora Guerini and Marco Sabellico, will conduct a tasting dedicated to the nine Special Awards in the 2015 edition. March 25 will be the \]ZVNWZ¹4M8MZTML¼1\ITQIºIV exploration of the best Italian sparkling wines, led by the Associazione Italiana Sommelier, _PQKPQ[KMTMJZI\QVOQ\[ÅZ[\ years with this event. Other tastings will focus on Nebbiolo, Hungarian wines, Champagne Blanc de Blancs, Riesling Kabinett, comparisons of Barolo and Brunello, studies of terroir, and much, much more.
International Wine Competition
his year’s competition will be a bridge joining Vinitaly to the EXPO. Now in its 22nd year, the Wine Competition, one of the most prestigious in the world, will be held from April 12-16. It will be a showcase for all wine-producing countries. In the Universal Exposition, the EXPO, all the Italian wines that win the Grand Gold Medals and Gold Medals will be presented in the course of special tastings WZOIVQbMLQV\PM¹>QVW·)<I[\M WN 1\ITaº8I^QTQWV On March 19, before the Fair, the International Packaging Competition will be held, dedicated to the design and presentation of wine bottles, spirits made from grape products, spirits or liqueurs based on fruit other than grapes, as well as olive oils. 46 MARCH 2015
Finest Italian Wines, 100 /ZMI\8ZWL]KMZ[º"WV5IZKP 21, the afternoon before the opening of Vinitaly, in Palazzo della Gran Guardia, VeroVIÅMZM >QVQ\ITa IVL \PM XZM[tigious American magazine, Wine Spectator, will collaborate on an event spotlighting the top Italian wines selected by the magazine.
t the same time as Vini\ITa>MZWVIÅMZM_QTTIT[W hold the Salone Internazionale dell’Agroalimentare, the International Quality Agro-Foods Event. Pavilion C will showcase the best Italian olive oil and food products, tastings and show cooking, meetings, B2B encounters and much more. This year will introduce two intriguing new
events. An area dedicated to KPMM[M[ \PM ¹+PMM[M -`XMZQMVKMº QV KWTTIJWZI\QWV _Q\P ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori di Formaggio - National Organization of Cheese Tasters) will organize workshops and tastings. Another new program, A Taste of Coffee, has been developed by SCAE, Specialty Coffee Association of Europe, and will included mini-training courses and tastings. The space dedicated to artisanal beer will be larger. In the last few years, the sector has shown major increases in production and, above all, in quality. Programs will be aimed at promoting more knowledgeable consumption, with workshops also on pairings of food and beer. But the true star of the show will be olive oil. Besides numerous conferences, the exhibit offers the possibility of tasting, in one area, the winners of the competitions Sol d’Oro Emisfero Nord e Emisfero Sud (Northern and Southern Hemisphere). Gambero Rosso will, in collabo-
ration with Unaprol, on March 22 at 16.00, in the Sala Salieri of Palaexpo, present the fourth edition of its guide Oli d’Italia. The annual volume reviews the best extravirgin olive oils made in Italy. Moreover, from March 23-25, in the Unaprol del Sol stand, the oils that won awards in the guide will be presented, with tastings of the best labels, selected on the basis of intensity and regional provenance.
he most outstanding technology for wineries and olive mills will be exhibited at ENOLITECH. The Salone Internazionale per Viticoltura e Olivicoltura will be held in Pavilion F. (International Exhibition of Wine-Growing and Cellar Techniques & Olive-Growing and Olive Oil Technologies). The event this year is focused on environmental sustainability. Two hundred companies will present machinery, equipment and accessories for the produc47 MARCH 2015
tion, bottling, transport, conservation and tasting of wine and olive oil.
Vinitaly And The City
he events that take place outside the fair have also been updated. With the help of the city of Verona, many will \ISM XTIKM W]\LWWZ[ NWZ \PM ÅZ[\ time. In the piazzas of the city, on March 20-23, from 18.00 to 23.00, the historic and artistic beauty of Verona will be enhanced by Italy‘s food and wine heritage. Many events will bring together a public of wine lovers and foreign winemakers. In PiIbbILMQ;QOVWZQ¹4M+IV\QVMLQ >QVQ\ITaIVL\PM+Q\aºQ[[KPMLuled. In Cortile della Ragione, music, sparkling wine and food _QTT MVTQ^MV ¹>QVQ\ITa IVL \PM +Q\a 5][QK 4W]VOMº 1V +WZ\QTMLMT<ZQJ]VITM¹>QVQ\ITaIVL \PM +Q\a /ZMMVº _QTT [PW_KI[M environmentally-friendly food and wine.
SPECIAL OLI D’ITALIA VINITALY 2015
by Clara Barra
48 MARCH 2015
e city at a glance
for a visit to an ancient town The Vinitaly megaevent offers a great opportunity to check out Verona’s new eating and drinking places. Here’s a guide to some of the city’s best
hanks to Vinitaly, for almost half a century, Verona has been a vital stop on wine lovers’ trips to Italy. But the city has art, music and fine food traditions to offer as well. Visitors to the fair probably have every minute planned, but some suggestions might still be useful. Stay on a day or two to see a wonderful show at 8ITIbbW LMTTI /]IZLQI" ¹)Z\M M >QVWº I ]VQY]M M^MV\ \PI\ opens as Vinitaly closes (April 4-August 2). On the walls are paintings by Caravaggio, Rubens, Tintoretto, Titian, Goya, Boccioni, Depero, Guttuso, Picasso, Magritte, Degas, and Manet, among others.
SPECIAL OLI D’ITALIA VINITALY 2015
AL CAPITAN DELLA CITTADELLA
P.ZZA CITTADELLA, TEL.
80 EUROS Behind the Gran Guardia and near the Arena, Andrea Manzoli, a young, talented chef, prepares an eleOIV\ UMV] WN Å[P dishes miles away from the usual Verona fare. The rooms are warm and welcoming with their wooden beams IVL ÆWWZ JZQOP\ [MI themed décor. Opt for I[QVOTMLQ[PWN Å^MTQ\tle tastes (28 €), or at lunchtime, two courses and dessert (38€). The menu changes daily, depending on the market. Decent wine list. Always reserve.
CASA PERBELLINI P.ZZA SAN ZENO,
bet, and with Chiara in the kitchen and Mamma, Luca and Titti in the dining room, you’ll have a unique experience: premium ingredients, beautiful presentation and careful service. Many dishes are international, but a quicker menu is served in the bistrot, with a list of small dishes in Basque pintxo style. Broad, deep wine list with large bottles and many Champagnes available. List of beers and tisanes.
VIA DIETRO SAN SEBASTIANO,
7 045 595358 WWW.RISTORANTEILDESCO.IT 135 EUROS Elia Rizzo, working with his thirty-something son Matteo, guarantees altissima cucina in an elegant setting. Sample updated traditional dishes such as exquisite risotto with pumpkin and Amarone or tagliatelle with snails and herbs. Or opt for inventive shrimps and goose liver with reductions of wine and onion. Perfect desserts to end the meal and a delightful wine list. TEL.
LA FATA ZUCCHINA VIA DON
CARLO STEEB, 25 045 597897 WWW.LAFATAZUCCHINA.IT The only place in town for vegetarians, vegans and those sensitive to gluten (cer\QÅMLJa\PM)[[WKQIbQWVM1\ITQIVI+MTQIchia), an unpretentious, friendly setting where even pets are allowed. Simple, tasty but also imaginative dishes on the menu, varying with the season. Organic and biodynamic wines. Very popular eatery, so be absolutely sure to reserve and show up promptly. TEL.
L’OSTE SCURO V.LO
SAN SILVESTRO, 10 045 592650 WWW.RISTORANTEOSTE SCURO.IT 100 EUROS In the heart of the city, in a romantic 18th-century building, this restaurant has been an ideal place for seafood for 15 years. Service and ambience are charming, indoors and outside on a small, pleasTEL.
TEL. 045 8780860
150 EUROS Enthusiastic Giancarlo Perbellini is in a new, central location – modern, elegant, with an open kitchen. Various tasting menus, one at lunch for 50€, are offered, but come in the evening for a leisurely sampling of dishes such as sesame wafer; scrambled egg, potato foam with oil and lemon, baby spinach and tangerine sauce; risotto alla parmigiana with smoked bottarga and saba grape syrup; lightly [UWSML Y]IQT _Q\P _QTL NMVVMT KWVÅ\ tomatoes and pistachios from Bronte.
AL CRISTO P.TTA
90 EUROS Piazzetta Pescheria is a peaceful summer spot, ideal for candlelit dinners. The Famiglietti are a sure
50 MARCH 2015
DU DE COPE
GALLERIA PELLICCIAI, 10 TEL.
25 EUROS 14
PIZZAS: FROM 6 TO EUROS
LEON D’ORO 10
25 EUROS PIZZAS: FROM 6 TO 12 EUROS A 19th-century patrician home with a pleasant garden and a friendly atmosphere are the perfect setting for artfully made pizza topped with premium ingredients. Variations include WVM[ NZWU SIU]\ ÆW]Z KITbWVQ IVL schiacciate versions and large-size 600-gram servings for big eaters. An QV\ZQO]QVO \_WXMZ[WV XZQ`Å`M UMV] includes dessert and a bottle of sparkling Ferrari Perlé. Mostly regional beer and wine.
ANTICA BOTTEGA DEL VINO
V.LO SCUDO DI FRANCIA 3 TEL. 045 8004535
60 EUROS <PQ[ ¹*W\\MOIº Q[ years old and deserves a visit from anyone in Verona. The monumental choice of bottles in their formidable cellars has received prestigious international awards. Among their food specialties, risotto all’Amarone and polenta with meat stew. An unforgettable atmosphere.
LOCANDA CASTELVECCHIO C.SO
CASTELVECCHIO, 21A 045 8030097 WWW.RISTORANTECASTELVECCHIO.COM 45 EUROS One of the historic places in the city, inside an 18th century palazzo. Don’t miss the housemade tagliatelle with four different sauces, or the sumptuous offerings of roasted and boiled TEL.
51 MARCH 2015
meats, brought around on a cart. Boiled meats are a specialty, served with various accompaniments such as green sauce, apple chutney and the traditional pearà sauce based on bone marrow, pepper and bread. Another cart shows off the desserts, M[XMKQITTaIOMVMZW][\ZQÆMb]XXIQVglese). A decent wine list.
all day long
Dough made from [MTMK\ML ÆW]Z[ IVL allowed to rise for a long time; top quality toppings; woodburning oven: the magic formula for this pizzeria’s success. On the menu, 13 types of pizza varying monthTa I KW]XTM WN [MI[WVIT ÆI^WZ[ IVL the pizza-dough panino called panuozzo, a Neapolitan variation rarely found in Verona. Sample the trademark puff pastry dessert millefoglie ¹[\ZIKPQVº ,ZQVS KIZMN]TTa [MTMK\ML artisanal beer. VIA PALLONE,
ant veranda. Fish, raw and cooked, is always top quality, based on MediterZIVMIVÆI^WZ[IVLIZWUI[ITWVO_Q\P an elegant creative touch. Wine list naturally focuses on whites and sparkling wines.
ACQUA E GRANO TEL.
335 8323725 Three locations in the city - via Todeschini, via Mameli and via Diaz – for this pizza by the slice – soft, crunchy, and made with slowrising yeast. Always ten or so types available, ranging from the classic Margherita to the excellent pancetta and pecorino, as well as eggplant alla parmigiana; burrata and fresh tomato; potato, mozzarella and grana and many more.
C.SO DI PORTA
BORSARI, 15D 045 8031313 Inside an ancient palazzo in the historic center, near Piazza delle Erbe, Borsari has been synonymous with excellent coffee since 1969. Drink classic espresso, creamy cappuccino, or the delectable mini version called marocchino standing at the counter, paired with a fresh brioche, to start your day in the best possible way. TEL.
LA TORRE PIZZACAFFÈ STRADONE S.
MAFFEI, 1 045 2525464 Renato Bosco, celebrated pizzaiolo and founder of Saporè, together with two collaborators, has opened a tiny, welcoming place for pizza by the slice. The name says it all. At breakfast, espresso from guru Gianni Frasi’s premium coffee or frothy cappuccini are the perfect companions for breakfast pastries. But when pizza comes to center stage later in the day, beer and artisanal drinks take over. TEL.
045 954959 WWW.PASTICCERIADAVIDEDALLOMO.IT Just outside the center of town, in a residential area, is the small, delicious kingdom of pastry chef Davide Dall’Omo. His vast range of delights are made scrupulously from prime ingredients, including the fruit for excellent jams, his eggs and fresh J]\\MZ +WZVM\\Q IZM ÆISa IVL ÆI^WZN]T JZQWKPM XZWXMZTa TMI^MVML IVL ÅTTML QV multiple ways.
DOLCE LOCANDA VIA VALERIO CATULLO,
12 045 8004211 Come for excellent coffee or hot chocolate, to drink at the counter, or to buy one of the Perbellini desserts, unrivaled in the city. The star is the TMI^MVML NWKIKKQI ÅTTML _Q\P TMUWV TEL.
hazelnut and chocolate, or apricot. During Vinitaly, don’t miss sampling columbe and bovolone.
SPECIAL OLI D’ITALIA VINITALY 2015
ALCOVA DEL FRATE TEL.
In one of Verona’s most colorful neighborhoods, near the beautiful Ponte di Pietra, this simple place only has a few old-fashioned wooden tables and a large counter. But the kitchen is open from noon to one at night and offers solid, wellmade dishes, especially meat. You can come just for a drink or choose a glass or a bottle from among the best wines in the country, including sparkling Italian and French.
OSTERIA SOTTORIVA VIA SOTTORIVA,
9A | TEL. 045 8014323 30 EUROS In a quiet street of medieval portici, aW]¼TTÅVLWVMWN \PMWTLM[\IVLUW[\ picturesque inns in the city. Perfect for staying up late with friends, drinking one of the many good bottles in the wine cellar. The osteria is a favorite of those who love bubblies, thanks to a vast selection of Champagnes. The menu, mostly regional dishes, is written on a blackboard.
12 045 591477 | WWW.TAPASOTTO.IT A delightful place for a midnight snack or a quick lunch before going back to the Fair. Order a series of tapas, one little dish more intriguing than the next. Beer, wine by the glass and some interesting bottles. Tables outdoors as well. TEL.
and berries, OSTERIA SOTTORIVA 52 MARCH 2015
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OLI D’ITALIA 2015
by Stefano Polacchi
FOR EACH OIL, A PERFE Cultivar and territory: our pairing maps Why is it a shame to pair buffalo mozzarella with a great Umbrian Moraiolo cultivar oil? Why is that mozzarella enhanced, instead, by an extra-virgin made from the Itrana variety? Here’s a map of pairings that starts from the territory, matching grounded in centuries of trials and tastings. Ahead of the release of Gambero Rosso’s Oli d’Italia 2015, we focus on some of the best monocultivars in the guide alongside recipes from regional traditions. 54 MARCH 2015
© CineFoto Guglielmi Giacomo
55 MARCH 2015
ood is culture because it invented and transformed the world. It’s culture when it’s produced, when it’s prepared, when it’s consumed. Food is part of our identity, and an instrument for expressing and KWUU]VQKI\QVOº 5I[[QUW Montanari, professor of Medieval History and teacher at the University of Gastronomic Sciences of Pollenzo, introduces the game we want to play. We call it a game because it’s a source of pleasure and entertainment. But in reality, pairing extra-virgin olive oils that are typical of a territory to traditional dishes from the same zone isn’t just a game. It sums up the material culture of a people. 1\¼[ MI[a \W [Ia" ¹LZQbbTM WV M`\ZI^QZOQVWTQ^MWQTº°J]\_PQKP' If you try to season a slice of salmon with a Coratina, you won’t be happy with the result. With some oils, you might even be tempted to throw it all away – VW\JMKI][M\PMÅ[P_I[V¼\OWWL or the oil wasn’t well made, but simply because they don’t go together. It would be like drinking a Sagrantino di Montefalco with that salmon. The tannins would engage in a punching UI\KP _Q\P \PM Å[P WQT[ *]\ QN instead, if we use that Coratina on a plate of greens and beans, for example, it goes perfectly. It’s no accident that we’re mentioning a traditional cultivar of Puglia alongside the traditional ingredients of the zone. We can try another experiment using ingredients with territorial ties.
OLI D’ITALIA 2015
THE GUIDE AL SOL DI VERONA IV EDITION
If you try buffalo mozzarella with a premium Umbrian Moraiolo oil – it’s tragic. The metallic sensation will take over everything, and make the dish inedible. But if instead, you drizzle a little Itrana olive oil (an indigenous cultivar from the province of Latina) on that mozzarella, the tune changes. Even if it won’t be a pairing that is completely harmonious, it will present intriguing contrasting notes. The food-terroir connection gives us another fundamental element in the food-olive oil match: the harmony rule. Unlike what can happen with wine
– happy marriages that are also based on contrasts – olive oil generally has to harmonize with its partner. Delicate foods call for delicate oils, and vice versa. <PMUWZMQV\MV[M\PMÆI^WZWN the ingredient, the more intense the oil should be. Rules like these are simple and make sense. In territorial pairings, we generally find the confirmation in practice. Thinking about the ideas Professor Montanari stated at the start, in centuries of activity in a territory, the art of food preparation has bonded with, and built itself around the 56 MARCH 2015
With a selection of some of the best Italian monocultivar extra-virgin olive oils, the Oli d’Italia 2015 guide, created by Gambero Rosso in collaboration with Unaprol, is ahead of the game. The volume will be presented on March 22 in Verona on the occasion of the opening of Sol-Vinitaly in Fiera Verona. The Oli d’Italia 2015 guide shows that it is possible to produce excellent extra-virgin olive oils M^MV QV LQNÅK]T\ situations. The olive oil producers, at this point, need a model. We suggest that of the chefs and winegrowers: continuous contact among colleagues, collaboration, exchanges, networking. This is what the Oli d’Italia 2015 year’s olive oil har- 360 pages| price 13.90 vest has taught. euros | on sale in bookAnd to never let stores, on newsstands, down your guard. and at gamberorosso.it
elements present in the territory. Cucina, generally built on simple ingredients from the woods and fields, grew up around the olives that were available and the oil made from them. As well-being increased, exchanges and contacts multiplied and simplified. Today we can find Torbole broccoli typical of Trentino in Milan or Bari. The same goes for Brisighella’s artichokes. Looking around wine shops or up-scale food shops, we can find extra-virgin oil from all of Italy. This doesn’t
spoil our fun. It makes it more interesting because the playing field is wider. So olive oil from Nostrana di Brisighella can be used on both Sardinian violet and Roman cimaroli artichokes. We can amuse ourselves trying a good Tonda Iblea oil on tomato and bread soup – pappa al pomodoro – on a cool summer gazpacho, and on a sumptuous pasta and bean soup. With one reminder: we must pay attention, because a good olive oil makes all the difference. For better, but also for worse. 57 MARCH 2015
OLI D’ITALIA 2015
LIGURIA | TAGGIASCA Grand Cru | Cassini | Isolabona (IM) | www.oliocassini.it On the nose, sage and marjoram, while the palate presents more vegetal notes that suggest valerian, closing on pine nut tones and a hint of almond. Bitter and peppery notes are delicate and in perfect balance. PAIRINGS: pesto genovese| stockÅ[P _Q\P \WUI\WM[ dUIaWVVIQ[M_Q\PJWQTMLÅ[P Pesto, made with basil and pine nuts, is the ideal companion for an oil such as this one, in which aromatic herbal notes appear alongside the more balsamic ones of the pine nuts, in complete symbiosis with the pesto’s own ingredients.
LOMBARDIA (GARDA) | LECCINO Monocultivar Leccino | Comincioli | Puegnago sul Garda (BS) | www.comincioli.it This cultivar (along with Casaliva) is typical of the Gardesana Lombarda zone. The oil is lightly fruity, round and vegetal on the nose with hints of almond and green apple. On the palate, almond hints return, enriched by yellow fruit and delicate tomato. Delicately bitter and peppery. PAIRINGS:\_IQ\[PILTISMÅ[P_Q\PWTQ^MWQTXIZ[TMa and garlic | boiled carpione del Garda +IZXQWVM" IV QVLQOMVW][ Å[P \PI\ PI[ ZMKMV\Ta ZM\]ZVML \WTQ^MQV\PMTISM1\PI[^MZaTMIVLMTQKI\MÆM[P;QUUMZ JZQMÆa QV I KW]Z\ JW]QTTWV IVL [MI[WV _Q\P I LZQbbTM WN olive oil. Sardines are also excellent with a delicate olive oil that has character. 58 MARCH 2015
VENETO (GARDA) | GRIGNAN Monocultivar Grignan |San Cassiano | 5MbbIVMLQ;W\\W>:d___KIV\QVI[IVKI[[QIVWQ\ Grignan is a fairly rustic olive well-adapted to cold zones. It lives in the same areas as Casaliva, another classic cultivar of Lake Garda. The oil is medium fruity, with aromas of cut grass, evident notes of tomato, green almond and yellow apple. Bitter and peppery tones are delicate and balanced. PAIRINGS: uncooked on gnocchi with pas\Q[ILI LM KI^IT d JIKKITo WZ [\WKSÅ[P brandade (alla veronese o alla vicentina) On baccalà, the olive oil enhances the savory, [_MM\IVLQWLQVMVW\M[WN \PMÅ[P*]\Q\¼[NIVtastic on potato gnocchi, just as they are, perhaps with a dusting of Parmigiano-Reggiano, or topped with the zone’s typical pastisada (marinated, braised horsemeat, slowly stewed with tomato and herbs).
TRENTINO (GARDA) | CASALIVA Uliva Dop Garda Trentino | Frantoio di Riva | Riva del Garda (TN) | www.agririva.it Casaliva is a cultivar typical of the Garda zone. If handled well and harvested in time, M^MV \PW]OP LMTQKI\M Q\ PI[ I ÅVM KTMIV XMZsonality, medium-fruity, almost intense. The oil Q[ ÅVM IVL PIZUWVQW][ WV \PM VW[M _Q\P VW\M[ of almond, artichoke and balsamic herbs. Soft in the mouth, it displays tones of lettuce, celery and almond. Delicate bitter and peppery notes. PAIRINGS: carne salada | game | broccoli di Torbole Carne salada, typical of the province, is a premium lean cut of beef, salted and marinated in brine, and is eaten raw or cooked. It is pleasantly savory, with a very aromatic and spicy aroma. Broccoli di Torbole, produced in the Garda Trentino area, is a [XMKQÅK\aXMWN KZ]KQNMZW][^MOM\IJTM_Q\PIUWZMLMTQKI\MIVL ZW]VLMZÆI^WZ\PIVQ\[KIJJIOMaKW][QV[
59 MARCH 2015
OLI D’ITALIA 2015
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA | BIANCHERA (ALIAS BELICA) Oro | Zorzettig | Cividale del Friuli (UD) | www.zorzettigvini.it Bianchera olives generally give fairly intense fruity oil, decidedly bitter and peppery, characterized by pleasant herbaceous notes and raw artichoke tones. For this reason, they are almost always milled together with other cultivars, such as Frantoio, Pendolino, Maurino and, here, Leccino, which all together complete the blend. PAIRINGS: jota (bean and sauerkraut soup) | paparot (ancient traditional polenta and spinach soup) This oil, assertive and full of personality, goes well with \PM ÆI^WZ[ WN \PQ[ bWVM LQ[PM[ KP I[ \PM KTI[[QK RW\I of Trieste, a bean soup enriched with sauerkraut or the fermented turnips called brovada, or else smoked ribs or pork cheek. It is excellent also with the more delicate tones of paparot, a polenta, spinach and garlic soup.
EMILIA ROMAGNA | NOSTRANA DI BRISIGHELLA Selezione Alina | Tenuta Pennita | Castrocaro Terme (FC) | www.lapennita.it A brilliant and complex oil with aromas that range from herbaceous arugula to balsamic eucalyptus and artichokes, it then elegantly extends in the mouth with pleasantly round bitterness more evident than peppery sensations. Two years ago we named it the best intensely fruity oil in Italy. PAIRINGS: raw or lightly boiled artichokes | fresh homemade pasta with olive oil and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano Fresh egg pasta, a classic of this region, is perfect for testing the entire range of this oil’s sensations. It also goes well with artichokes (moretto di Brisighella, in this case), which display a very round bitterness (similar to cardoons) and a celery-like freshness typical of rustic artichokes.
60 MARCH 2015
TUSCANY | FRANTOIO Fonte di Foiano | Frantoio | Castagneto Carducci (LI) | www.fontedifoiano.it A Tuscan classic, balanced, austere and expressive, all at the same time, with its aromas of artichoke, aromatic herbs and the LMX\P WN KaXZM[[ 1\[ JQ\\MZ IVL XMXXMZa ÆI^WZ[ IZM QV XMZNMK\ equilibrium. Clean and elegant. PAIRINGS: bread and Tuscan kale soup | bean soup | braised turnip tops | seafood salad| pasta, chickpeas and mussels Sweet and savory, iodine and soil…that’s how this olive oil plays on the foods of the territory, Florentine, above all.
MARCHE | ASCOLANA TENERA Fra Bernardo | Conventino di Monteciccardo | Monteciccardo (PU) | www.il-conventino.it Fresh notes of tomato, celery stalks and herbs make up the almost intense fruitiness of \PM UWVW^IZQM\IT I[KWTIVI \MVMZI <PM M`KMTTMV\ XZWUQ[M WV \PM VW[M Q[ KWVÅZUML QV tasting, which reveals elegant and vital bitter and peppery notes. An excellent oil that expresses the potential of the cultivar. PAIRINGS: red meats and grilled lamb, farro, lentil or bean soups, pasta with ceci [W]X[\WKSÅ[PWZJIKKITo_Q\PPMZJ[IVL[XQKM[ The oil is excellent uncooked, a perfect complement to grilled meats. Its sweet and savory notes also make it enjoyable drizzled on traditional family dishes such as legume soups or dried cod.
OLI D’ITALIA 2015
UMBRIA | MORAIOLO La Quinta Luna | Gaudenzi | Trevi (PG) | www.oliodopgaudenzi.it Moraiolo, the major component (80%) of this blend, with the rest from frantoio olives, is a typical Umbrian cultivar and characterizes the extra-virgin oils of the zone with its expressive power, second only to coratina. This year, the notes are more delicate, the fruitiness is almost intense and offers a complex aromatic texture in _PQKP_MÅVLVW\M[WN KWVQNMZM]KITaX\][OZI[[IVL the spicy tones of green pepper. The palate, with its sensations of nettle, is powerful and elegant, and its peppery notes suggest ginger. PAIRINGS: chickpea soup | raw vegetables (black celery from Trevi) | boiled and grilled meat The ideal companion for a good chickpea soup and for legumes in general. Perfect on boiled and grilled meats.
LAZIO | ITRANA Monocultivar Itrana | Paola Orsini | Priverno (LT) | www.olioorsini.it Itrana, world-renowned as the table olive of Gaeta, is also typical of the Colline Pontine, and has been the star of a real extra-virgin comeback in Lazio. Its aroma is a medium-intense fruitiness with notes of balsamic herbs and oregano. Medicinal herb notes appear in the mouth as do typical green tomato sen[I\QWV[\PI\XMZ[Q[\QV\W\PMÅVQ[PITWVO_Q\PIXTMI[IV\JQ\\MZ peppery feel. PAIRINGS: mozzarella di bufala | caprese salad | cooked vegetables | salad greens | pasta with tomato and basil, crustaceans Mozzarella di bufala and tomatoes are a most delicious match for this oil, but so are fresh wild greens, or greens that have been quickly sautéed, as well as seafood.
MOLISE | RUMIGNANA Colle D’Angiò Monocultivar Rumignana | Giorgio Tamaro | Termoli (CB) | www.oliotamaro.it | www.molisextra.com Rumignana is an olive particularly typical of the hilly zone around Colletorto. It is medium-fruity with aromas of artichoke and wild greens that return in the mouth along with hints of almond and just-ripe fruit. PAIRINGS: spaghetti or fava beans with bread crumbs | lentil soup, porcini and ovoli (Caesar’s) mushrooms Bread crumbs are a commonly used ingredient and condiment QV \PQ[ ZMOQWV [\QTT QVÆ]MVKML Ja its peasant roots. The crumbs are toasted and sprinkled on pasta or added to fresh boiled, then sautéed, fava beans.
ABRUZZO | INTOSSO L’Olio Monocultivar Intosso | <ZIXXM\WLQ+IXZIÅKW | Casoli (CH) | ___\ZIXXM\WLQKIXZIÅKWKWU Intosso is an olive from the Abruzzo, from Chieti and Pescara above all, that is traditionally a table olive, processed in brine. The oils it produces are very unusual, delicate and IZWUI\QK KP I[ \PQ[ M`\ZI^QZOQV _Q\P Q\[ \MV]W][ ÆWZIT and tomato seed fragrances. Complex and elegant in the mouth, it displays notes of almond and hints of bitterness that resemble wild greens. Wild grasses reappear on the ÅVQ[PIVLITWVOX]VOMV\NZM[PVW\M PAIRINGS: baby wild greens | beans | seafood salad A traditional oil of the territory goes best with traditional dishes, such as those that bring together wild greens and beans, the basics on local tables. Nearby is the Adriatic, so seafood pairs well.
63 MARCH 2015
OLI D’ITALIA 2015
CAMPANIA | RAVECE Monocultivar Ravece | 7TMQÅKQW.IU | >MV\QKIVW)>d___WTQWNIUKWU The oil expresses the typical characteristics of the cultivar, beginning with notes of tomato joined to pleasant sensations of aromatic herbs such as thyme and rosemary. In the mouth, sensations of sweet almonds and pine nuts appear, with peppery tones slightly more evident than bitterness. PAIRINGS: legume soups, also with chestnuts | tagliatelle and chickpeas The characteristics of the oil itself make clear what to pair with it: pasta and chickpeas above all, suggested by the oil’s notes of tomato and aromatic herbs. The rustic pasta called laine with chickpeas is a absolutely typical dish in Irpinia.
PUGLIA | CORATINA Don Gioacchino Monocultivar Coratina | Sabino Leone | Canosa di Puglia (BT) | www.poderemontedoro.it Intensely fruity and very typical of its variety, a generous and complex nose completely focused on bitter tones that suggest cardoon and nettles, with a light resinous note. In the mouth, the bitterness resembles wild chicory, then sweetens on the bitter tones of red radicchio in an elegant overlapping in which peppery tones accompany, underline and amplify olfactory sensations. PAIRINGS: fava beans and wild chicory Speaking of playing with tones of bitterness – the emblematic Pugliese dish, besides orecchiette, is wild chicory and other greens with fava beans, in many versions.
64 MARCH 2015
OLI D’ITALIA 2015
BASILICATA | MAJATICA Monocultivar Majatica | La Majatica | San Mauro Forte (MT) | www.lamajatica.it A wonderful medium fruitiness in which the arWUI\QK XZWÅTM ZIVOM[ NZWU PMZJ[ \W [_MM\ ITUWVL[IVLÆWZIT[KMV\[7V\PMXITI\MQ\TW[M[ some complexity but maintains intact its freshness, displaying sensations of cardoon and bitter almonds. Bitter and peppery tones are tenuous and balanced. PAIRINGS: baccalà with cruschi peppers | grilled lamb chops The complexity and elegance of the olive oil combines well with two classic dishes of the territory, baccalà with the peppers called ‘cruschi’, a delicious variety typical of this area, and grilled lamb chops, Lucania’s incredible meat.
CALABRIA | CAROLEA Monocultivar Carolea | Pasquale Librandi | >IKKIZQbbW)TJIVM[M+;d The most common olive in Calabria, suited for both oil and table use. It adapts well to cold weather and relatively high altitudes (up to 800 meters IJW^M[MITM^MT<PQ[WQTZMÆMK\[\PM\aXQKITKPIZIK\MZQ[\QK[WN \PMK]T\Q^IZ" medium fruity, vivid green aromas of leaves and cardoons, pleasant notes WN IZWUI\QKPMZJ[<PM[MMTMUMV\[ZM\]ZVWV\PMXITI\MWVIÅVQ[PJITIVKML between bitter and peppery. PAIRINGS:_IZU+ITIJZM[MXQ\\IJZMILWN\MVÅTTML_Q\P\ZILQ\QWVIT morzeddhu stew (innards) or with vegetables, especially peppers | KPQKSXMIIVL<ZWXMIWVQWV[ITILdÅ[P[W]X 8Q\\I Q[ I \ZILQ\QWVIT _PMMT[PIXML JZMIL IVL WTQ^M WQT Q[ NÅKQMV\ I[ condiment, but the bread is commonly eaten with a stew of organ meats, tomato paste and hot peppers, sometimes replaced with tripe alone.
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SICILIA | TONDA IBLEA Cherubino Monocultivar Tonda Iblea Bio | Terraliva | Buccheri (SR) | www.terraliva.com Classic cultivar of the Iblei mountains between Ragusa and Siracusa. This oil also develops aromas of tomatoes (beefsteak), basil and salvia together with a sweet vegetal note of valeriana. Everything reappears in the mouth, with pepper prevailing over bitterness. PAIRINGS: legume soups, also those made with seafood | fish soups | pasta with tomatoes | fava bean purée with wild fennel, and homemade pasta (manichi ri fauci) with cooked fava beans or pork A super-territorial oil to use on a dish that is equally territorial, a simple pasta, similar to cavatelli, served in the Ragusa province only together with legumes. A truly perfect match.
SARDEGNA | BOSANA Monocultivar Bosana | Corte Olias | Bosana | Escolca (CA) | www.corteolias.it A traditional cultivar of the region that offers immediate notes of aromatic Mediterranean herbs and greens that return on a vegetal XITI\M \WOM\PMZ _Q\P M^QLMV\ VW\M[ WN \WUI\W <PM ÅVQ[P Q[ very rich and complex with hints of almonds and pine nuts. Pepper and bitter sensations are medium and balanced. PAIRINGS: pane frattau (thin dried bread called ‘music paper’, tomato sauce, pecorino cheese and eggs) | roast pork | lamb An olive oil that is full of character and combines well with traditional dishes based on bread and tomato. But it helps to soften and underline the complexity of lamb, which, when well prepared, is not at all overly strong.
67 MARCH 2015
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Bere bene literally means ‘to drink well’. It is also the name of a Gambero Rosso guide listing good wines for under 10 euros. In this section of our magazine you will find listings of labels we’ve selected in which quality is joined to friendly pricing. Each month we’ll visit a region. This month we look at Sardinia, an intriguing island region renowned for its well-made wines from indigenous grapes.
ardinia is a region where you can drink very good wine without spending a fortune. The 20 labels chosen for our Bere Bene list are about equally divided between the island‘s two principal varieties, cannonau and vermentino. However, the diversity among these wines, although obtained from the same grape variety, is noteworthy, and not only because produced by different wineries. We tried to choose labels that represent the best of the territory and their terroir. In some, the Cannonau is more structured. In others, lighter and juicier. The same is true for the Vermentino. The minerality of the Gallura zone is perfectly recognizable, as are the complex, fruity aromas of those wines from the warmer zones and from vineyards located in limestone soil. Vermentino is not the only white grape, although the preference is al_Ia[NWZ\ZILQ\QWVIT^IZQM\QM[;W_MÅVL6]ZIO][LQ+IOTQIZQ;MUQLIVWLQ Mogoro and even Vernaccia di Oristano – the variety we know for producQVOOZMI\UMLQ\I\QWV_QVM[KIVJM^QVQÅMLaW]VOIVLWNNMZINZM[PXTMI[IV\ glass to drink throughout the meal. Among the reds, we pay attention to Nieddera, based on the grape variety of the same name in the Oristano province and able to produce good labels. Monica di Sardegna is the most emblematic everyday wine on the island, and Mandrolisai, a red from the heart of Sardinia, is talked about UWZMIVLUWZM)VLÅVITTa_MXWQV\W]\[WUM+IZQOVIVWLMT;]TKQ[TIJMT[M[XMKQITTa\PW[M^QVQÅMLWVTaQV[\IQVTM[[[\MMT
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mouth, alcohol gives the palate warmth, but never burns. Excellent acidity lends freshness and lightness. Try it with a stew, especially goat.
Carignano del Sulcis Giba ’12, 6MURA - CANTINA GIBA
The 6 Mura (Six Walls) winery (which has added Cantina Giba to its name) produces two typical, territorial and fascinating Carignano del Sulcis labels this year. This Giba is the simpler version, but it is not at all banal. Freshness, drinkability and aromas of Mediterranean scrub and berries are its characteristic traits. Soft, seductive tannins are exemplary, while acidity and a savory note lead into a clean and very long ÅVQ[P8IQZQ\_Q\P[MUQ aged Sardinian raw-milk pecorino.
Nuragus di Cagliari S'Elegas 2013, ARGIOLAS
Vermentino is not the only variety grown in the southern part of Sardinia, here in the province of Cagliari. Nuragus, an indigenous grape relaunched successfully some years ago, gives typical, interesting wines. Try the S’Elegas ’13. Citrus fruit and aromatic herb aromas characterize the nose. The palate is fresh, savory and distinguished by grape-skin sensations that make the wine unusual. Pair it with raw crustaceans served with only a drizzle of olive oil.
Cannonau di Sardegna Thurcalesu ’12, BERRITA Berritta is a small, artisanal winery near Dorgali. In this territory, its specialty has to be Cannonau. Thurcalesu is a red with decisive character. We particularly appreciated its easy drinkability. Aromas range from dark fruit to spices. Soft and velvety in the 70 MARCH 2015
Carignano del Sulcis Maccòri ’13, CANTINA DI CALASETTA
Although one of the least expensive wines in this group, it is not in any way inferior to the other labels in terms of quality. Maccorì is a typical Carignano del Sulcis, with characteristic territorial notes of myrtle, hints WN NWZM[\ÆWWZIVLIZWUI[ of Mediterranean brush. Silky, velvety and fresh in the mouth. Tannin is very soft and contrasts well with acidity that gives vibrancy to the XITI\M-`\ZMUMTaKTMIVÅVish, remarkably easy to drink. Perfect with lamb tartare.
Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Cucaione ’13, CANTINA DELLE VIGNE – PIERO MANCINI
Cucaione is a time-tested label from Piero Mancini’s winery. It is a typical and expressive Vermentino di Gallura with one of the lowest prices on the market for its type. The 2013 offers aromas of white fruit, light sensations of aromatic herbs, and a hint WN JQ\\MZITUWVLWV\PMÅVish. Fresh and savory in the mouth, it drinks easily. The ÅVQ[PQ[LMMX_Q\PQWLQVM overtones. Excellent with JISMLÅ[PÅTTM\M[XMKQITTa amberjack and herbs.
Vermentino di Sardegna Longhera ’13, CARPANTE Year after year, the Carpante winery demonstrates its devotion to quality and production
based on typical, territorial wines. Moreover, average prices are very fair, and often, as in the case of this Longhera, don’t go over 10 euros per bottle on Italian wine shop shelves. A Vermentino di Sardegna, it displays clear notes of Mediterranean herbs and _QTLÆW_MZ[>MZa[I^WZaWV\PMXITI\MUW]\PÅTTing and balanced by freshness that gives vibrancy to each sip. Pairs well with fregola (tiny Sardinian pasta) seasoned with artichokes and bottarga.
Cannonau di Sardegna Capo Ferrato Rei ’11, CANTINA DI
The Cannonau di Sardegna denomination includes three HȐȨ subzones, one of which is Capo CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA Ferrato. This small cooperative CAPO FERRATO in Castiadas works in the heart of the territory. Rei is a fresh, CASTIADAS enjoyable Cannonau. Aromas of blackberries, wild strawberries and plums stand out on the nose. On the palate, a savory sensation XZMLWUQVI\M[1UXIK\Q[KTMIVIVLUW]\PÅTTQVO <IVVQVQ[LMV[MIVL[WN\\PMÅVQ[P[TQOP\TaXMXpery and long. Great with grilled steak. DENOMINAZIONE DI ORIGINE CONTROLLATA
Vermentino di Sardegna Pigalva ’13, GIOVANNI CHERCHI
The Cherchi winery is in Usini, a zone well-suited for winegrowing. Cagnulari is the local red-berried vine, but among white grapes, vermentino is clearly predominant. Pigalva, a Vermentino di Sardegna ’13, especially pleased us with aromas of plum, Golden Orange IXXTM[IVL_QTLÆW_MZ[<PMXITI\MQ[MY]ITTaXTMI[IV\NZM[PIVL[I^WZa\PMÅVQ[PKTMIVIVL\I[\a<Za it with roast chicken.
Nieddera Rosato ’13, ATTILIO CONTINI
One of Sardinia’s most important wineries, Contini spotlights wines from the entire Oristano zone, especially Vernaccia. But that white-berried variety is not the only one that matters. )UWVOZML[_MÅVLVQMLLMZI presented in this case in a rosé version. Intense aromas of berries and cherry. Fascinating impact in the mouth, characterized by sapidity, a slight \IVVQK[MV[I\QWVIVLXTMI[IV\[WN\VM[[<PMÅVQ[PQ[ clean, aromatic and long. Goes well with pork roast.
Cannonau di Sardegna Capo Sardo ’11, GIOVANNI LUIGI DEADDIS
Deaddis is a small but talented winegrower with vineyards in northern Sardinia. His top wine is a Cabernet Sauvignon that found its perfect habitat in this zone. But thanks to a few vineyards of cannonau he makes Capo Sardo, a wine that is not only good, but also competitively priced. Aromas on the nose range from sweet red fruit to spices. The palate is slightly \IVVQK;I^WZa[MV[I\QWV[[\IVLW]\IVL\PMÅVQ[PQ[ very warm and clean. Enjoy with beef stews.
Monica di Sardegna Karel ’12, FERRUCCIO DEIANA
Ferruccio Deiana, grapegrower and enologist, owns several hectares of vineyard in Settimo San Pietro, a town near Cagliari. The varieties are largely traditional, and include a Monica di Sardegna. Fresh and juicy, it has all the character you expect from the variety: aromas of violets and berries, a palate displaying acidity and balsamic freshness. Delicious with lightly grilled fresh tuna. 71 MARCH 2015
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Cannonau di Sardegna Anzenas â€™12, CANTINE DOLIANOVA
Dolianova is one of Sardiniaâ€™s largest cooperative wineries. Its zone, Parteolla, is particularly suited for winegrowing. Most of the cooperativeâ€˜s wide range of wines are noteworthy for their excellent price/quality rapport. Varieties are almost exclusively the traditional ones that give good results in this zone, such as Cannonau di Sardegna Anzenas. The 2012 vintage is fragrant with immediate notes of cherries and spices. Savory and lightly tannic in the mouth. Game, such as wild boar, is a perfect pairing.
Cannonau di Sardegna Tunila â€™13, CANTINA DORGALI
Cantina Dorgali is a beautiful cooperative that has invested heavily in recent years in the quality of its wines, starting with a selection of the most beautiful vineyards belonging to its members. The territory is ideal for growing cannonau, and the winery aims at offering more and more elegant, MI[a\WLZQVS_QVM[<]VQTIQ[IĂ…VMM`IUXTMI rich, complex Cannonau with a nose of spices and Mediterranean scrub. The palate is warm, juicy and easy-to-drink. Excellent with velvety mushroom soup.
Vermentino di Sardegna Chlamys â€™13, TENUTE FOIS
The Fois family is well-known in Sardinia for its top-quality extra-virgin olive oil production (Accademia Olearia). Recently it has begun to release Chlamys, a white wine of surprising elegance 72 MARCH 2015
and typicity. Made with vermentino grapes, it M`XZM[[M[ITT\PMKPIZIK\MZWN I_QVMQVĂ†]MVKML by the proximity of the sea. On the nose, iodine aromas, orange blossoms and aromatic herbs. >MZaNZM[PWV\PMXITI\M_Q\PI[I^WZaĂ…VQ[P Round and soft, it is a typically Mediterranean wine. Serve with lobster salad.
Cannonau di Sardegna LillovĂŠ â€™13, GIUSEPPE GABBAS
Giuseppe Gabbas is a passionate grapegrower devoted to the countryside around Nuoro. His production focuses on the cannonau variety, from which he turns out three labels and a dried-grape wine. Recently he added a white wine, from a small vermentino vineyard. The label with the right price for this Bere Bene section is LillovĂŠ, one of the best Cannonau bottles of its type. The use of only stainless steel vats contributes to a fragrant and juicy wine with notes of cherries and currants. Excellent freshness and complexity on the palate. Good with bean soup and Fiore Sardo pecorino cheese.
Vermentino di Gallura Mavriana â€™13, CANTINA GALLURA
The Cantina di Gallura is a point of reference for Vermentino. Within the range of wines proL]KML_MĂ…VLUIVa_PQ\M[UILMNZWU\PMXZQVcipal variety in the northwest of the island, all from different vineyards, each with its own personality. Mavriana is one of the most affordable. The 2013 vintage year seems to have lent complexity to the wine. Aromas range from notes of aromatic herbs to whiteĂ†M[PMLNZ]Q\<PMXITI\M is fresh, savory and very clean. Excellent with mussels and clams.
The 2010 offers complex olfactory notes ranging from [XQKM[\WTMI\PMZNZWUZM[QV\WNWZM[\Ă†WWZ;\Z]K\]ZMIVL balsamic freshness on the palate, with a warm, mouthĂ…TTQVOĂ…VQ[P-`KMTTMV\_Q\P[\M_MLOWI\
Cannonau di Sardegna Bantu â€™13, ANTICHI PODERI JERZU
Ogliastra is a zone in the western part of the island where cannonau produces very particular wines with vegetal and balsamic tones. The cooperative winery Antichi Poderi di Jerzu has been investing in the best vineyards, also by means of selection (zonazione) that is giving results. Bantu is a simple but never banal Cannonau di SardeOVII[_M[MMQV\PM^QV\IOM0QV\[WN NWZM[\Ă†WWZ brambles, and a touch of eucalyptus on the nose lead QV\WINZM[PR]QKaUW]\PĂ…TTQVOXITI\M8IQZ_Q\PZWI[\ML suckling pig.
Zurria â€™13, MASONE MUNNU Masone Mannu is a beautiful winery in Gallura specialized in Vermentino. The range of wines produced, though, includes reds such as this Zurria, a monovaZQM\IT+IZQOVIVW^QVQĂ…MLWVTaQV[\IQVTM[[[\MMT^I\[\W enhance its primary aromas. Besides its extremely friendly price, the wine is attractive thanks to complex notes of spices, cherries and berries on the nose. The palate is fresh, juicy, and properly acidic. Tannin is delicate and soft. Excellent with moderately aged pecorino cheese.
Cannonau di Sardegna Bantu â€™11, ALBERTO LOI
Vermentino di Sardegna Opale â€™13, MESA
Alberto Loiâ€™s beautiful family-run winery is especially known for its Cannonau production. Located in Cardedu, in Ogliastra, it turns out wines made from all the most important Sardinian varieties. Here we suggest Sa Mola, from the Jerzu subzone, which we consider a great product, aside from its truly advantageous price. Aromas of 5MLQ\MZZIVMIV[KZ]JIVLNWZM[\Ă†WWZ^MOM\IT[MV[I\QWV[ IVLINZM[PR]QKaXITI\M7V\PMĂ…VQ[P\PM_IZU\PWN alcohol appears, but in a balanced manner. Drink with aged, sharp Sardinian pecorino cheese.
Mesa is a beautiful winery in the Sulcis zone of the region. Besides wonderful Cannonau labels, it produces fascinating whites based on vermentino, some of which are particularly good after a number of years. Opale is a Vermentino di Sardegna with aromas of iodine, wild Ă†W_MZ[IVLaMTTW_Ă†M[PMLNZ]Q\>MZa [WN\IVLUW]\PĂ…TTQVOQ\Q[[\QTTIOQTMIVL R]QKa\WLZQVS<PMĂ…VQ[PQ[NIQZTa[I^WZa and reminds us of the earlier aromas on the nose. Try with octopus salad.
Mandrolisai â€™10, CANTINA SOCIALE DEL
Semidano di Mogoro Anastasia â€™12,
CANTINA DI MOGORO â€“ IL NURAGHE
Mandrolisai is a denomination located in the heart of Sardinia and its century-old tradition calls for a blend of bovale, cannonau and monica grapes. Few wineries produce it besides the local cooperative. The wines are very typical and sometimes a little rustic, but always fascinating.
The Nuraghe winery is the historic Mogoro cooperative. The steps taken over the last few years to achieve quality are incredible. In particular, the winery has focused on the territoryâ€™s traditional varieties, starting with semidano. Anastasia is the wine 73 MARCH 2015
BERE OLI BENE D’ITALIA : BEST BUYS 2015
dedicated to this white-berried variety. Pleasant aromas WN KQ\Z][NZ]Q\PMZJ[IVL_PQ\MÆW_MZ[1V\PMUW]\P M`\ZMUMTaLZaIOQTM^MZaNZM[PIKQLQ\aKTMIVLMMXÅVish. Ideal partner for an aperitif with raw seafood.
ter variety has produced Tzinnigas, an example of how Vernaccia can be more than a meditation wine. This label displays aromas of citrus fruit and Golden Orange apples, then a dry, clean and very fresh palate. Excellent with spaghetti seasoned with clams or bottarga.
Vermentino di Sardegna Prisma ’13, MURA
Vermentino di Sardegna I Fiori ’13, PALA
Mura is a family-run busines in which siblings Marianna and Salvatore carry on the work begun many years ago by their father, the winery’s founder. Among their whites, Vermentino di Gallura stands out, but we wanted to point out Prisma, a Vermentino di Sardegna that is below 10 euros in Italian wine shops. Notes of helychrysum, chamomile and citrus zest on the nose. The palate is fresh and savory, with a clean, QWLQVMÅVQ[P[TQOP\TaITUWVLa>MZa good with grilled shrimp.
For a while now, the Pala winery in Serdiana has been releasing good wines of character, marketed at affordable prices. This is the case with this Vermentino di Sardegna in the I Fiori line. The 2013 vintage gives us a white _Q\PIZWUI[WN TQUM_QTLÆW_MZ[IVL aMTTW_ÆM[PMLNZ]Q\1\Q[NZM[P[TQOP\Ta aromatic and easy to drink. The clean, PIZUWVQW][ÅVQ[PQ[KPIZIK\MZQbMLJa the almondy notes typical of the variety. Perfect with seafood salads.
Vermentino di Sardegna Yiòs ’13,
Rosato ’13, OLIANAS
A newly-established winery in the Gergei municipality, Oliana interprets its territory through artisanal winegrowing that fully respects the vineyards in which it works. This delicious rosé made from cannonau and other traditional grapes joins a roster of three other wines. Aromas range from red berries to cherries and roses. In the mouth, soft, warm, juicy, very persistent and ÆI^WZN]T_Q\PINZM[PLMMXÅVQ[P Pair it with tuna carpaccio.
We have often admired this pocket-sized winery in the Alghero zone for its red wines. This time, it is Yiòs, a white from vermentino grapes, that amazed us with its intense aromas of sea-fragrant herbs and Q\[NZM[P[I^WZaXITI\M<PMÅZ[\QUXIK\ Q[[WN\IVLUW]\PÅTTQVOJMNWZMI\W]KP of iodine renders the palate vibrant and ÆI^WZN]T-`KMTTMV\_Q\PNZQMLKITIUIZQ
Cannonau di Sardegna Le Bombarde ’13, SANTA MARIA LA PALMA
Tzinnigas ’13, ORRO
Le Bombarde is a long-established winery in Santa Maria La Palma, wellknown not only in Sardinia but around the world. It is synonymous with this fresh, young and lively Cannonau sold at a friendly price and therefore a popular presence on many tables. The 2013 vintage displays the characteristics we expect: aromas of blackberry,
The Orro family has always been involved in agriculture, and over the years they have built this beautiful farm that, besides wine, also produces oil-preserved foods, table olives, and a variety of vegetable patés. In terms of wine, it has focused on the two traditional varieties of the Oristano province, nieddera and vernaccia. The lat74 MARCH 2015
[XQKM[IVLKPMZZa<PMXITI\MQ[UW]\PÅTTQVOIVL[WN\ <IVVQVQ[JIZMTaPQV\MLI\J]\\PMZMQ[IÅVM[I^WZaVW\M that gives vibrancy to each mouthful. Try it with sliced veal in sauce.
wines, all offering good value for money. We almost always appreciate their Cannonau di Sardegna bottles. The Corte Auda '12 is a red with character, displaying aromas of Mediterranean scrub, dark red fruit and spices. The XITI\MQ[_IZUIVLUW]\PÅTTQVO\IVnins are soft and silky. Good balsamic \WVM[IVLIKTMIVÅVQ[P-`KMTTMV\_Q\PJMMN [\M_
Carignano del Sulcis Grotta Rossa ’12, CANTINA DI SANTADI
Santadi headed the revolution that led many cooperative wineries in Sardinia to pursue quality production. It all began when the potential of the carignano variety grown in the highly suitable Sulcis zone became clear. Grotta Rossa is the Carignano of the year, the simplest version, but in the 2012 vintage, it was truly impressive, so much so that it can be considered among the great wines of the region. Aromas of myrtle, pepper and Pistacia lentiscus (mastic) lead into a dense, juicy and perfectly balanced palate. This is why we awarded it our special Regional Prize for 2015.
Vermentino di Gallura Aghiloja ’13, CANTINA DEL VERMENTINO
The Cantina del Vermentino owes its name to the most important grape variety of its territory, Gallura. Among the many whites produced here, we especially liked Aghiloia '13, a typical and fascinating Vermentino di Gallura. Besides its competitive price, its aromas of orange blossom, helichrysum and white fruit are surprising. Flavor is fresh and savory, with I\W]KPWN ITUWVLWV\PMÅVQ[PIVLIZWUI\QK[MV[I\QWV[ in harmony with its opening olfactory notes.
Carignano del Sulcis Is Solus ’11, SARDUS PATER
Nieddera Montiprama ’11, CANTINA SOCIALE DELLA VERNACCIA
Sardus Pater is the cooperative of Sant’Antioco, a long-established winery specialized in the production of Carignano. They produce many reds, but there’s no lack of vermentino-based whites, of sweet wines and metodo classico spumanti. Is Solus is a typical, simple Carignano del Sulcis. On the nose, aromas of cherry, currants and blackberry. The mouth is savory, with barely hinted-at \IVVQVIVLINZM[P\I[\aÅVQ[P8IQZQ\_Q\PTQOP\Ta grilled tuna.
In the Oristano province, besides the vernaccia variety that produces the zone’s particular oxidized wines, there is a nieddera, a red berry vaZQM\a \PI\ _PMV XZWXMZTa ^QVQÅML gives fascinating, very drinkable bottles. Montiprama, in its 2011 version, offers aromas of spices and ripe fruit. Impact in the mouth is marked, with silky, soft tannins, good NZM[PVM[[ IVL I KTMIV [TQOP\Ta XMXXMZa ÅVQ[P 5I\KP Q\ to a beefsteak.
Cannonau di Sardegna Corte Auda ’12, CANTINA TREXENTA
The cooperative Cantina Trexenta is named for the territory in which it operates, a zone in the south of Sardinia, not far from Cagliari. They produce a number of 75 MARCH 2015
LETTER FROM PARIS
THE TWO CHAMPAGNES Champagne is made up of two distinct families. The ÅZ[\ Q[ \PM NZ]Q\ WN KWUXTM` blends of grapes, crus and vintage years consisting of \PQZ\aÅN\aIVLI\\QUM[UWZM than one hundred different wines. Generally, this type of blend is called a cuvee. *aLMÅVQ\QWVWVTa\PMTIZOest wineries or cooperatives can produce such wines. The other Champagne family is simpler, beginning with grapes from a small number of plots, generally in the same area or municipality (sometimes incorrectly described as a mono-cru, even if separate plots from the same cru are used), and often with only one grape variety, or at least one predominant variety. The grapegrowers them[MT^M[IZM\PMUW[\[QOVQÅKIV\XZWL]KMZ[*a\PMQZ ^MZaVI\]ZM\PMÆI^WZ[WN \PM[M\_W_QVMNIUQTQM[ couldn’t be more different from each other, and therefore, they are appreciated differently by wine drinkers. The best approach would be to eliminate every ideological prejudice from wine tastings. The most common prejudice we all know and are subRMK\\W"ITW[[WN NIQ\PQV»JQO¼ÅZU[\PM[XQKQWV that those who have more means to bring pressure KIVQVÆ]MVKMR]LOUMV\[WN \PMQZY]ITQ\a\PMQLMI that numbers create diversity and, a deeply rooted conviction that there are special cuvees for the few, and ordinary cuvees for everyone else. But we prefer to look at musical analogies to explain these differences. A mono-cru Champagne is a little like a solo: one instrument, one timbre, one interpreter
who can fall anywhere on a quality scale, ranging from genius to total bore. A cuvee, on the other hand, can resemble chamber music for the micro-blends and great Wagnerian orchestras for the most important bottles. Success means that the sum of the diverse elements together is greater than the sum of their individual qualities. This is what the great enologists of the large wineries accomplish. The terroirs of Champagne are not equal, and in many cases, there’s no interest in vinifying them on their own. But on the other hand, there are hasty blends where volume is more important than the quality of the ingredient, and the result cannot be memorable. We have noticed that the more complex the blend is, the more time is required after dégorgement (even after a long period on its lees) to show the wine at its best. Often one or two years in the cellar are indispensable. Blends are simpler, require less dosage, are slightly oxidized, and produce wines that are immediately pleasurable. However, with aging they rarely attain the complexity of a well-managed cuvee. As for the extraordinary mono-crus turned out by great artists among the récoltant-manipulant winemakers, they are often products that start from a particularly successful blend of micro-plots with complementary qualities, and, for non-vintage bruts, with a good percentage of reserve wine.
76 JANUARY 2015
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is a Registered Trademark used under license by GR USA CORP Copyright by GAMBERO ROSSO HOLDING S.P.A. 2015. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. GR USA CORP is not responsible for loss, damage, or any other injury as to unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork or any other unsolicited materials. March 2015