Pattern Making Journal - Dress Project 2016

Weekly Process Journal Pattern Making Intermediate I Gabriela Jessica Susilo FD3A2 F15FD0558

Week 1

22/07/2016 This week, I learned to draft a basic torso block base on the instruction and model size.

Actually, it’s quite simple because just need to follow the instruction and all of the size has already given and calculated.

There is some difficulty when I did this especially when make the front shoulder and front shoulder dart part.

Week 2 29/07/2016 (Empire Line) This week, I learned about empire dress. There are some variation that I got, but I choose Empire line dress. Actually, the pattern is simple. However, I got a little bit trouble when I did the top part. After I read and try to understand more, finally I could do it.

So far, this week I learned more about empire line.

Actually empire line is very simple and it also has a lot of variation

After school I finished the pattern

To be more exercised, I try to make another pattern, which is Camisole dress. The pattern of Camisole dress is much easier and more simple than the previous one.

Week 3 05/08/2016 (Exploration of Empire Line)

Today, we did experiment and exploration with empire line that we have learned last week.

My exploration is very simple. The design is above.

Basically, I wanted to make a empire line but without seam 8 cm near the side seam.

I am not really sure that this pattern can be success. I tried to pin and drape it on the mannequin to make sure. I find that the side seam is fine. However I found some problem at the bottom part. It is too much volume at that part.

Too much volume at that part

After I draped and analyzed the pattern after draping, I modified my pattern. I decided to make some small darts at that part to lessen the volume at that part

After modified, I also try to fit it again at the mannequin. Finally, it can fit well.

From this exploration, I have learned new thing. I know how to make empire dress that have a seamless part at certain part. From this exercise also, I have learned that not all pattern of the design can be make with a normal pattern making method. Some design must be done with draping method first.

Then, can be transferred to the form of pattern.

Week 4 12/08/2016 (Continue Empire Line Exploration) After I finished and I consult, I find some problem at this part. Because there are 2 direction of gather that make it’s not look good. In this case, I have to solve it by choosing one of the part of gather (at the empire line or side seam)

Week 4 12/08/2016 (Princess Line) Today I learned new pattern which is pattern of Princess line dress.

Basically the pattern is easy base on the design that we want.

After finished the first one, I also try to make another one. This is much more simple than the first one.

Week 5 19/08/2016 (Princess Line Experiment) This week, I have to experiment the princess line that i have learned last week.

This is the princess line that I have made and next to the design is the master pattern After i finished this and see all the princess line exploration by my friend, i realised that princess line is not just a line that through apex but it can be variation

Week 6 26/08/2016 (Master Pattern of Dress Project) This week, I start to draft the dress that is the collaboration dress project with Fashion Design class and sewing class.

The theme that I choose for this project is “Musical Blue�, which is inspired by Jellyfish. It started when I suddenly fell in love with the beauty shape of jellyfish when I visit S.E.A Aquarium, Sentosa with my mom a few months ago. From what I saw, the present of Jellyfishes bring music and dance of the silent ocean.

This is the master pattern (The body and the sleeve)

Week 7 02/09/2016 (Intermediate Pattern of Dress Project) From the master pattern, I open it into intermediate pattern Making intermediate pattern is the time when I pivot the dart, and open the AV (add volume) I have two part that I have to add volume which are sleeve part and skirt part.

After that, I lay all of the intermediate pattern on the calico for making toile. I add 1 cm allowance around except CB part that have 1.5 cm allowance and hemline (2 cm) for doubled fold hemline finishing. Then, I trim and cut it on the allowance.

Week 8 16/09/2016 (Intermediate Pattern and Sewing the Toile) I trace all of the annotation that has in intermediate pattern to the calico. The annotation that need to be traced is : ● ● ● ● ●

Notches Straight grain Waist and hipline Number of piece CF and CB

After cut and trace all of the annotation I sew it into a dress toile.

Week 9 23/09/2016 (Consultation and Master Pattern Correction) This week is the time for consultation about my toile that I have already made. The big problem for my toile is my toile look so big (fat). These are my observation, my friend observation and also Mr. Chew’s observation; -

My toile look fat because the outer layer of the top too wide The skirt puff The skirt too short The top wide the the skirt wide that’s why look short

From those problem, finally I have to changes my master pattern before I make the final pattern: -

-

Remove the outer layer of the top (so there is just one layer for the top) Move the waist line 2 cm to above (become 4 cm from waist) Add facing for the top and collar Changes the fastening of the CB to full invisible zipper (remove the button and loop)

This is the master pattern after modified For the sleeve there is no different with the original

This is the new technical drawing after revision.

Week 10 30/09/2016 (Final Pattern and Cut the Real Fabric) After modified the master pattern, I make final pattern. Final pattern must include: -

Annotation (name and number of pieces, grain, notches) Allowance (1 cm around except CB area = 1,5 cm because have zipper) Punch hole at the notches area and make hole at 2 cm away from every dart

Dark blue Width:150cm

Light blue Width:150cm

I lay the pattern on the fabric base on the color that I want. I have already indicated which pattern pieces that use the dark blue and which pattern pieces use light blue. After that, I mark the fabric (the notched part) with air erasable pen or chalk.

Week 11 07/10/2016

(Submission of all of the Pattern for Dress Project)

I put the modified master pattern, intermediate pattern, final pattern and toile into a folder complete with the flat drawing on the folder

Week 12 - Shingo Sato (Add volume) Today, I learned about shingo sato technique to add volume. This method is very interesting. So first thing I have to prepare a shell that want to be modified.

First, we have to indicated where is the apex (bust apex)

After that choose some place then insert something on it. And for me I insert square on it. And after I insert, I found that the shape is quite interesting and without I trim the hemline, the hemline become uneven and it’s quite interesting.

After I insert flare at the bottom part, I want to add gather variation at the armhole area. I cut the part that I want to gather then I spread and add the volume for gather value.

After finished, I put the dress properly on the dress form then I make mark where should I cut as a seam to make this have a flat pattern.

This is the result after I cut and make it into flat pattern.

Reflection: I find that this method is very interesting, it’s like draping. So, we can see directly how the pattern will be at the form of garment on dress form. So we can create a unique pattern that is almost impossible if we want to make it from the basic block pattern

Week 12- Shingo Sato (Box Integration) This week we continue shingo sato method but different. Today we learn about box insertion that I think is more interesting than last week. Same with last week, so I have to prepare shell first and indicate the appex

I choose to insert at the backside. So firstly, I draw the shape that I want on the shell.

After that, I make the shape into 3D shape with paper.

After that I place the paper 3D shape that I have made on the shell (on the mark that I did).

Then, I mark where it must be cut , so that 3D insertion can be 2D on the pattern (Key: create seam on every appex that exist)

After I cut, the pattern become like this. (This is only the backside, the front side is same with the basic block) Reflection: This method is very good to used when we confused how to make pattern for 3D look. I think, it can not be achieve with the normal pattern making method (drafting)