Metro Water’s educational rain gardens seed ideas for sustainable landscaping at home
42 Mi Amur
Inside the Nashville Zoo’s bold new exhibit fighting extinction, one leopard at a time
47 Stories in Every Corner
Nashville PBS ushers in a new era of Tennessee Crossroads
51 Classic, Western and Sartorial
Designer Todd Snyder provides an inside glimpse into his 12South location
54 Keswick Hall’s Next Century
The sister property of Nashville’s Hermitage Hotel offers a Virginia respite
59 A Gentlemen’s Trip to Iceland
Choose your own adventure in the ‘land of fire and ice’
parties
63 Moved by the Spirits
The seventh annual Spirits of Summer serves up an out-of-thisworld evening
65 Bringing the Heat
Spirits soar at the annual Whitland Avenue Fourth of July Parade ON THE COVER
Allie Robbins explores Nashville Zoo’s rhino habitat in a SIR. dress from Kirna Zabête. Photographed by Angelina Castillo on location at Nashville Zoo. For more about Nashville Zoo, turn to page 42.
Borders Fde, Stories Bein
A journey through landscapes near and far
SOME OF MY CLEAREST memories come with a boarding pass. My rst ight took me to California to visit my aunt Janet and cousin Dianne. at sparked not only a love of See’s Candies but also a lifelong passion for the adventure of travel. I took my rst international journey with my high school German club. We embarked on a whirlwind tour of Munich, Vienna, Liechtenstein and Lucerne, Switzerland. Over the years, even a er hundreds of ights, the spirit of di erent vantage points continues to shape my hopes and dreams of the future.
In this issue, we move beyond the borders of Nashville — and the United States — to explore distant lands lled with deep history and rich culture. Our rst stop is South Africa, where I take readers inside Kruger National Park and its e orts to protect endangered species. Madeleine Bradford shares a beautiful re ection on her time studying abroad in Iceland, Sweden and Denmark. D. Patrick Rodgers, editor-in-chief of our sister publication Nashville Scene, invites readers on an elevated escape to Iceland with friends. And in this month’s expanded Worth the Drive column — aptly renamed Worth the Flight — Margaret Littman takes us to Rancho La Puerta in Mexico for some much-needed rest and relaxation.
For those staying closer to home, we venture to Nashville Zoo to explore its newest exhibit, Leopard Forest, featuring rare Amur leopards. Whitney Clay unveils the cozy glamour of Nashville’s new French eatery, Pastis. And Margaret Littman takes us inside the newly reimagined Keswick Hall in Charlottesville, Va. With Tennessee Crossroads announcing a new host, Madeleine sits down with producers to talk about the show’s new direction and the exciting changes ahead. And that’s just the beginning — this issue is packed with stories we can’t wait for you to discover.
Looking back, I see how travel has shaped who I am today. From trying sushi for the rst time in Paris to bungee jumping in New Zealand to plunging into Antarctic waters, every trip has shi ed my view of the world — and of myself.
Because sometimes, the best souvenirs aren’t the things you bring home — they’re the stories you never forget.
BY JANET KURTZ
Janet moved to Nashville 27 years ago. She is an avid reader, traveler and collector of fountain pens, and she lives in downtown Nashville with her husband, Ron, and their dog, Julep. Email her at jkurtz@nfocusmagazine.com or follow her on Instagram @musiccitytraveler
Editorial
founding editor
Herbert Fox Jr.
editor-in-chief
Janet Kurtz
contributing editor
Lindsey Lanquist
associate editor
Madeleine Bradford
social correspondent
Gloria Houghland
contributors
Beth Alexander, Chris Chamberlain,
Whitney Clay, Carrington Fox, Paige Gawley, Hannah Herner, Margaret Littman, Hamilton Matthew Masters, Nicolle Praino, D. Patrick Rodgers, Nancy Vienneau
Art
art director
Christie Passarello
senior photographer
Eric England
staff photographer
Angelina Castillo
contributing photographers
Tausha Dickinson, Michael Scott Evans, Peyton Hoge, Jack Landess, Hamilton
Matthew Masters, Alan Poizner
graphic designers
Sandi Harrison, Mary Louise Meadors, Tracey Starck
IT’S A BRIGHT WEDNESDAY morning at Soho House Nashville, and Hunter Claire Rogers — head of membership and communications — is wearing a floor-length floral dress with warm colors and sequin embellishments. As Hunter Claire floats through the lobby, fluffing many pillows along the way, it becomes clear that her approaches to style and hospitality overlap. The magic truly is in the details.
THE BASICS
Name: Hunter Claire Rogers
Hometown: Nashville, Tenn.
The native Nashvillian’s prolific career has helped her cultivate a prime guest experience at the Wedgewood-Houston hotspot. She’s lived abroad, taught English in Paris, and earned dual degrees in French and politics. Her return to Nashville ignited her interest in the nonprofit sector, where she worked with Arts in Healthcare, Women for Tennessee’s Future, Vision Philanthropy and the Nashville Fashion Alliance. After serving as the Cities Without Houses liaison for Soho House, Hunter Claire transitioned into her current role, where she’s helped Soho House expand its outreach to Nashville’s creative community and showcase what this vibrant city has to offer.
Zip code: 37209
Time in Nashville: 36 years, minus my time abroad in Paris; Edinburgh, Scotland; Lyon, France; and London
Number of vintage pieces in your wardrobe: That’s hard to guess. I’ve been collecting for 23 years and used to style, so I have held on to quite a few pieces. It would have to be over 100 at this point, but I do still loan them out from time to time.
How has Nashville’s creative scene evolved? Where do you see it going? I have always viewed Nashville’s creative communities as little satellites that sometimes bump into each other, but there’s nothing they orbit around. It has always been my goal to have them orbit or come together around what we’ve created here. We’re not just a music city. The art here is amazing. The food here is phenomenal. We have so much to offer, and the concentration of creatives here is much higher than in an average city of our size. I hope the community continues to grow, and I hope I can play a role in fostering that.
What sparked — and sustained — your passion for nonprofits? That driving factor has been my mother and father. They are two of the most selfless people I’ve ever met, and they really live and practice the golden rule. Growing up, I was always told to help others as much as I possibly could. That inspiration has been my family, because they live it every day and they’re much better at it than I am.
How would you describe your relationship with fashion? I have always been interested in fashion. I love clothes. I know the exact moment when I first started loving clothes. One
of my mother’s best friends took me vintage shopping, and I think I was 13 years old. I found this pair of 1970s charm-step leather boots that I still own, and I was obsessed. Even my father is always dressed to the nines. Clothes are powerful, and they can be a beautiful part of life. I want to do what makes me happy, and clothes are a way to express yourself.
What brought you to Soho House? I was familiar with Soho House before working for the company. I appreciated the fact that they were being very intentional about creating community. To have the opportunity to do that on a larger scale and effect positive change in a city I love and am proud to be from — I couldn’t turn that down. I also appreciate that the company is very supportive of our members and staff, and is very value-driven. At the heart of it, it’s all about growing and uniting the creative community locally, nationally and internationally.
What makes this Soho House location distinctly “Nashville,” and how does it reflect what the city has to offer? It’s our members. Our members are very locally driven. They are creatives and represent creative circles from all different aspects of our community. Each house has its own local flavor. I think we’ve
done a good job of reflecting that here. I was the first employee since 2017, so having that background of one person that’s been here leading it has helped, and I was connected to so many communities when we opened.
What inspired you to create your Instagram account, RSVP Nashville? Before, I was doing it on my personal Instagram via Stories and had friends that said, “You really need to put this out there.” I took their advice. We’ve ballooned organically to almost 18,000 followers since I started it, and I just want it to be a resource for the community at the end of the day.
I found that a lot of lists are geared more toward tourists. I love that we have such a vibrant tourism economy here, but I wanted something that was geared toward Nashvillians and travelers, so people can experience the culture of our city. And give voices to amazing events that don’t get the press they necessarily deserve because they’re new, young or people haven’t found out about them yet. If I could physically be at every single one of these events, that’s where you’d find Hunter Claire in a week.
BY MADELEINE BRADFORD PHOTOGRAPH BY ERIC ENGLAND
Step Inside: Pastis
A legendary New York City eatery arrives in Music City
IN THE BUZZY Wedgewood-Houston neighborhood, among a sea of red brick, a new restaurant with a white-subway-tile exterior and bright red awning stands out. After much anticipation, Pastis, the beloved French brasserie, has opened in Nashville.
Yet once you’re inside the timeless bistro, it feels as if Pastis has always been here. For example, the signature tin ceiling tiles were white when they were first delivered, says general manager Tyler St. Denis. “The amount of time and effort that they took to age the ceiling as if someone’s been chainsmoking here for 200 years is incredible.”
In one section of the 170-seat restaurant, designed by Ian McPheely of Paisley Design NYC and famed restaurateur and Pastis founder Keith McNally, red leather curved booths surround dark dining tables. In another area, distressed wood tables paired with Windsor chairs sit atop mosaic floors. The walls are dotted with handpainted mirrors on a backdrop of white subway tiles. An 18-seat curved zinc bar — a stunning focal point — stands ready for service as guests arrive. Golden-hued globe lights add to the ambience.
A patio with a designated bar, which will seat another 60-70 guests, is slated to open in the next couple of months. “If there’s one thing we’ve learned about Nashville, it’s people love their patios,” says
Tyler, with a smile. He says the restaurant has a broad appeal. “You can come in for a burger and a beer, or you can come and celebrate your parents’ birthdays. It has something for everyone.”
Founded in 1999 in New York City’s Meatpacking District, Pastis quickly became the place to see and be seen. It’s been mentioned in TV shows like Sex and the City and movies like The Devil Wears Prada, and it’s become a celebrity favorite. Liv Tyler reportedly held her wedding reception at Pastis. Designer Donna Karan even introduced her Spring 2005 collection there. While the restaurant moved from its original location over a decade ago, it’s still in the same neighborhood, just one block away. Pastis is now part of the hospitality group STARR Restaurants.
At 512 Houston St., the Nashville location is housed in an early 1900s building that was part of May Hosiery Mills, a famed sock factory known for making the all-cotton socks worn by astronaut Neil Armstrong when he first walked on the moon. The historic significance appealed to the restaurant group, as did the architecture.
“And with an establishment that’s already stood the test of time, it’s kind of perfect for us,” says Tyler.
BY WHITNEY CLAY PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND
CLASSIC FARE
With executive chef Mark Coleman at the helm, Pastis will o er Parisian favorites. To start, there’s oysters mignonette, escargots and onion soup. Featured entrées include boeuf bourguignon, duck confit, trout amandine and steak frites. For those feeling a little less adventurous, there’s also a “cheeseburger à l’Américaine.”
Daily specials might feature chicken Kiev, dover sole meunière, and bouillabaisse. For dessert, o erings include a vanilla bean crème brûlée and a dark chocolate mousse. There’s also an extensive list of wine, beer and cocktail options.
DAILY BREAD
The Nashville location is the first Pastis to have an in-house bakery, says Tyler. Soon, he says diners — and even passersby — will be able to buy a baguette or loaf of sourdough to take home. They might walk by and think, “I’m not ready for a full lunch, but a baguette on my little morning stroll would be perfect,” says Tyler.
Soon, the restaurant will also be open for lunch and weekend brunch. Carrie Bradshaw would be proud.
IN GOOD COMPANY
AJ Capital, which owns the former May Hosiery Mills, is reimagining it as a mixed-use development called Wedgewood Village. Along with a half-dozen new buildings, it will feature high-end retail, restaurants, residences, and a 4,500-seat concert venue.
“We’re lucky enough to be one of the first projects here — to be part of the building blocks for [the neighborhood],” Tyler says. There will be parking in the coming months, but during construction, he suggests getting a rideshare or taking advantage of valet.
Ndesign: Backdrop Artist
TeliciaLee, TeliciaLee Backdrops
IN THE MIDST of tornado warnings in early April, backdrop artist TeliciaLee was working on a commissioned piece in her Germantown studio for Dolly Parton — in pink, of course — when the impending storms prompted her to roll up the 10-foot-wide, still-damp cotton duck canvas, throw it in her car and rush home. She tended to it throughout the night, letting it dry on the “best rug” in her Brentwood living room.
TeliciaLee’s talent and dedication to her craft have made her one of just a handful of go-to backdrop artists in the country. Her client list reads like a who’s who of the entertainment and music industries: Kevin Bacon, Nicole Kidman, Garth Brooks, Trisha Yearwood, Billie Eilish, Chris Stapleton, Carrie Underwood and Miley Cyrus, to name a few. She frequently paints backdrops for magazine layouts, album covers, and photo shoots — she created a blush-colored backdrop for the 2018 Brides magazine cover featuring Serena Williams, who’d gotten married the previous year. The Tennessee Titans own one of TeliciaLee’s backdrops, as does the Nashville Soccer Club. While TeliciaLee does sell her backdrops, she says rentals are her “bread and butter.”
TeliciaLee shares her studio with one of her two grown daughters, ceramic artist Morgan Williamson. On a recent afternoon, she tackled a commission for a client — unrolling a large blank canvas on the concrete floor and applying dark-brown acrylic house paint to it with a roller. She then scooped handfuls of water out of a wellworn paint can, splashing the canvas and diluting the color. When completed, the piece will be titled “Texas Gumbo,” referring to the dark Texas soil mixed with clay she remembers seeing while living in the Houston area for 20 years.
After graduating from Auburn University with a degree in fine art and illustration, the Georgia native found a niche painting interiors, specializing in decorative wall finishes and murals. She once enlisted a team of 12 to help her paint a mural for a client who wanted portraits of all the NASCAR drivers — and their cars — on the walls of his 21-car garage. Locally, Nashvillians might be familiar with the massive mural she painted on the side of Olive & Sinclair’s East Nashville factory. Unless it’s a project of that size, she typically works on her own, or sometimes with the help of her daughter.
TeliciaLee got into painting backdrops after moving to Nashville over a decade ago. She reached out to well-known photographer Jeremy Cowart after he’d posted a photo in front of the Olive & Sinclair piece, and she serendipitously learned he was looking for a local muralist. They met and immediately clicked — and that project turned out to be an album cover for Florida Georgia Line. He encouraged her to do more backdrops. And the rest, as they say, is history.
“I do pinch myself that this just fell into my lap, and I’m really grateful,” TeliciaLee says. “I feel very humbled that I can make ends meet doing something like this, that I couldn’t have ever made up ever in my life. I could never have made up this career.”
BY WHITNEY CLAY PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND
Worth the Flight: Rancho La Puerta
One of the world’s first wellness retreats is still going strong 85 years later
A LOT HAS changed in the wellness industry since Deborah Szekely and her husband founded Rancho La Puerta 85 years ago. The kinds of classes offered, the accommodations, the food and even the roads to the property are different. But what’s endured is the commitment to a healthy lifestyle, a reset and the motto “siempre major” (always better).
Today, Deborah, who also founded the famous Golden Door spa, is 103 and has clearly found a way to keep evolving. She still provides inspiration to the guests and staff who come to her 4,000-acre oasis, though her daughter Sarah Livia Brightwood is now president of the company.
Most guests come for a weeklong retreat, where they choose from more than 50 daily activities that emphasize connection to nature in a seamless, luxury environment. Activities could include tennis or pickleball, hiking 40 miles of trails, Watsu water therapy, aerial yoga, meditation, Pilates, Spanish lessons and more, with some weeks featuring guest instructors and specialty classes. There are four different pools and 11
gyms, and the total number of guests is capped at 170, so there’s plenty of elbow room.
While the idea of RLP — or “the Ranch,” as most guests call it — is to embrace wellness, this isn’t the kind of place where you’ll count calories or have weigh-ins. Instead, you’ll find your reset from the sayings and mottos written throughout the property, the surrounding mountains, the evening lectures, and the community of people who dine, hike and meditate together.
The Mexican architecture — including a communal dining hall, casitas, villas, art studios and fitness studios — is connected by pathways dotted with sculptures and colorful gardens. This makes the Ranch feel like a neighborhood, where you’re dashing across campus to meet a friend or make a class, rather than a resort. The result is a community feel that goes beyond the traditional luxury hotel. As many as 60% of people who visit the Ranch return for a second (or third or fourth) visit, reconnecting with friends and building on their experience. Service is attentive, but not obsequious.
WHAT’S NEARBY
Rancho La Puerta is in Baja California, Mexico — about an hour from San Diego. Most guests fly into San Diego (yes, there are direct flights from Nashville), and the RLP arranges transportation to the resort and provides instructions on crossing the border. You can pop into Tecate if you want a meal out and a beer, but most guests remain at the serene resort for the length of their stay.
WHAT TO DO
Take in the sunrise on a morning hike, try a new cardio class, play tennis, or explore different kinds of meditation — including sound baths or walks in the labyrinth. There are 32 garden acres to admire, art studios, and a spa that offers healing therapies like acupuncture and energy medicine.
THE BASICS
What: Rancho La Puerta
Where: Tecate, Baja California, Mexico
Distance from Nashville: 1,988 miles
Why it stands out: For 85 years, Rancho La Puerta has provided guests a place to reset and reconnect, offering luxury in the mountains of Baja California. It’s an all-inclusive destination spa with more than 50 daily activity options — offered in a way that somehow feels like a multitude of possibilities, not like a cruise-ship menu of checkboxes.
WHERE TO EAT
You’ll eat your three daily meals in a communal dining hall, where you can talk with other guests in a screen-free environment. The dishes are made with organic ingredients and locally grown produce. (You can even help work in the garden if you choose.)
Unlike some wellness resorts where your calories are counted, at Rancho La Puerta, seconds are encouraged. The menus are big on legumes, vegetables and whole grains. There’s some limited sugar, dairy and seafood, but no red meat. Take a cooking class to learn how to maintain a healthy eating plan when you return to your own kitchen.
HOW TO GET A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP
RLP’s 86 casitas offer no distractions. There are no TVs in the rooms — and no WiFi. If you need to check in on work, there are designated rooms where you can do so, but the idea is to maintain a digital detox during your stay. Instead of scrolling, take in the views of Mount Kuchumaa from your patio, curl up in front of your fireplace and read a book, or admire the folk art in each casita and villa.
BY MARGARET LITTMAN PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF RANCHO LA PUERTA
ON S F I
A visit to South Africa’s Kruger National Park
UNDER THE HOT South African sun, a pride of lions crouches in the grass, eyes locked on a nearby herd of Cape buffalo. Muscles twitch with anticipation. A break in the line: A calf drifts too far from the others, unaware of the danger lurking inches away, hidden in the golden brush.
The humans watching — travelers with Abercrombie & Kent sitting in open-air jeeps — hold their breath. The air stills. Then, with spring-loaded force and silent coordination, the lions begin their advance. The calf moves within striking range — just a heartbeat away from sharp teeth and claws.
WHE R E THE WILD THINGS AR E
THE 7,500-SQUARE-MILE swath of land — just 2,000 less than Vermont — that is Kruger National Park was born when the Sabie and Shingwedzi reserves merged. These reserves, created in the late 1890s and early 1900s, were South Africa’s earliest attempts at wildlife conservation. In 1922, the park welcomed its first guests as part of the South African Railways’ popular “Round in Nine” rail tours. In 1926, the park officially became known as Kruger National Park, named after president Paul Kruger, and began welcoming drive-through tours.
South Africa’s diverse terrain offers many distinct biomes, from verdant grasslands and lush forests to arid deserts and shrubby thickets. But most of what you’ll find in Kruger National Park is the savanna — a woody grassland dotted with trees.
Within the savanna lie even smaller vegetation zones, which, depending on the time of year, support the various fauna that live in the park. During the dry winter months, animals often gather near watering holes, making them easier — and more thrilling — to spot. This ever-changing landscape offers an ideal escape for visitors on safari.
LIFE AT THE LODGE
ON THE SABIE side of Kruger National Park sits Thornybush Game Lodge — more of an immersive experience than a rustic camp. Originally opened in 1961, Thornybush offers 16 luxurious private suites, each outfitted with indoor and outdoor showers, deep soaking tubs and heated blankets for cool winter nights. Guests fall asleep behind screened windows to the sounds of the wild — and awaken to its wonders.
Each morning and evening, armed guards escort guests from their private lodges to the al fresco dining area and meeting space to prevent unwanted wildlife encounters. Each meal is prepared and enjoyed in this outdoor oasis, which allows for views of the Monwana River (a seasonal fixture that runs dry in the winter) and offers glimpses of parading elephants or solitary leopards.
The Thornybush culinary team whips up exquisite meals that range from local fare to more classically European and American dishes. Each dish is expertly prepared, and the bar is always open. While dining, it’s not unusual for guests to observe a range of wildlife, from the antelope that frequent the property to the ornery monkeys that often try — and at times succeed — to steal bread. While the Thornybush team has slingshots on hand to keep the monkeys at bay, one or two of the clever critters reliably manage to pull off a heist.
Conservation pulses through Thornybush. For two decades, the Thornybush community has led the charge in important preservation work through photography, internship opportunities and community education. One new initiative, Thornybush Kids in Conservation, teaches local schoolchildren about conservation and helps them earn scouting badges. Thornybush also supports economic and nutrition efforts in the local community through the Thousand Herbs and Vegetables Garden program, which provides fresh produce and herbs to luxury resorts throughout Kruger National Park.
Protecting the reserve is the job of the Tango K9 Anti-Poaching Unit, a specialized team that includes highly trained dogs and their handlers. Together, they patrol Thornybush and the Greater Kruger region, working to curb illegal hunting and safeguard the area’s most vulnerable species. The team is in place for good reason. From 2011 to 2020, Kruger National Park’s white rhino population dropped 75% — from 10,600 to 2,607. With critically endangered and vulnerable species in their care, the unit acts as guardians, protecting animals from their biggest predator — humans.
ENCOUNTE RS WITH THE BIG FIVE
KRUGER’S WILDLIFE FEELS endless. As the sun rises and golden light spills across the savanna, a young leopard stalks a herd of impalas. Though he fails at first, we later spot him in a tree with a young warthog clutched in his jaws — out of reach above a snarling pack of hyenas.
Further inside the park, a mother elephant and her 4-month-old calf graze on a bush beneath a tree. Though the calf grows nervous as the jeep approaches, the mother remains calm — almost stoic. We turn off the engine to hear the quiet hum of industrious insects and the persistent munching of vegetation. Perhaps to calm her calf (and the now-enthralled humans), the mother elephant lets out a low hum — almost a purr — letting those nearby know everything would be all right. Later, a white rhino and her calf appear. This mother keeps her distance. The cost of survival is carved into their faces — both rhinos have had their horns removed to deter poachers. Roughly 16,800 white rhinos remain in the world today.
Aside from the Big Five, one of the rarest sightings of all emerges at sunset. A pack of African wild dogs — also called painted dogs — begin their hunt. Fewer than 7,000 remain in the wild. The rare creatures vanish into the bush just as the Southern Cross constellation appears overhead, reminding us it’s time to head back toward camp. Reflecting on our days watching the Big Five, it becomes clear there is a fragility in this coexistence. With the loss of just one of these species, the thread is broken and the fabric of this ecosystem begins to unravel.
THE CA ST OF CH ARA CTE RS
BEYOND THE WILDLIFE and wonder, one of the most beautiful parts of travel is the cast of colorful characters who make a trip unforgettable.
A pair of lifelong companions celebrating 49 years of friendship. Three couples enjoying a bucket list trip. A group of four from New York — including one proud shopaholic — who are warm, charming and inclusive. And who could forget the valiant group leader who gently, yet firmly, keeps everyone in line when it comes to staying on schedule?
As much as the destination enriches you, it is the Gilligan’s-Island-esque troop you share memories with that makes the journey magical.
FINA L SCENE
AS THE LIONS advance, seemingly certain of their victory, the adult buffalo quickly close ranks to form a living shield around the calf. One adult Cape buffalo can be a meal for a pride, but a herd is a more formidable force in defending a helpless calf that hasn’t yet grown into her horns.
The calf lives. The lions slip away into the shadows, lean with hunger but still alive — just like everything here, fighting to endure.
BY JANET KURTZ
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JANET KURTZ AND COURTESY OF THORNYBUSH GAME LODGE
Nordic Sojourn
Embark on a 2-week adventure through Iceland, Sweden and Denmark
OVER A YEAR AGO, I took an unforgettable voyage to three Nordic countries: Iceland, Sweden and Denmark. But this voyage wasn’t a vacation — it was a school trip. Belmont University filled my college years with educational experiences that were anything but ordinary. Luckily for me, my studies in entertainment and media not only helped me land a career in journalism but ultimately led me overseas.
Our group embarked on a 2-week “Maymester” program to visit international music business offices, take marketing and crisis management classes, and, of course, experience hygge — the Danish secret for coziness and happiness that had piqued my fascination since middle school.
But none of my pored-over books on Danish culture could’ve prepared me for the blissful ease of Copenhagen. Or, for that matter, the otherworldly landscapes of Reykjavík or the quaint charm of Stockholm.
The moment we boarded our first plane, my peers and I took on a bold task: soaking in the vibrant cultures of three countries in 13 days. But during that period, I lived many years’ worth of stories I’ll likely include in my future memoir — and certainly cherish forever.
REYKJAVÍK, ICELAND
THE EVER-MYSTIFYING REGION of Iceland isn’t just revered for its striking topography. It’s a place where Vikings dwelt and created the region’s layered history. My peers and I kick-started our historical education upon deplaning from our red-eye and traveling to our breakfast spot, the Viking World Museum. Viking World’s prime exhibit is the Icelander — an awe-inducing recreation of the 870 A.D. Gokstad ship, which, in 1882, was excavated from a burial mound in Norway. This spectacle is suspended in the air and available for guests to board and explore.
After feasting on freshly baked bread, rich cheeses and a meat selection with mysteriously hot pink hues, we took a scenic bus ride over freshly dried lava and into the heart of Reykjavík. Iceland’s stoic, peaceful capital isn’t just a natural feast for the eyes — it’s an architectural one. Hallgrimskirkja, a symmetrical, strong-standing church, is the beacon of downtown, boldly sloping upward on either side and reaching a tall, centered point. Upon ascending the structure’s internal staircase, it’s only natural for visitors to rest their gazes on the quaint, vibrant buildings that lie beneath the church’s peak.
With plenty of daylight on our hands, which didn’t wane until long after 11 p.m., my peers and I braved the crisp wind and explored city pathways, including Rainbow Street, which has celebrated the unity of Iceland’s population since its unveiling in 2015. I couldn’t help but notice how quietly the city bustled. Despite hosting the nation’s largest population of Icelanders, Reykjavík remains serene and void of the raucous engine hums that pervade other cityscapes.
The next morning, I woke to a natural craving for relaxation. Enter the Blue Lagoon Iceland Resort & Spa. Locals first discovered the lagoon’s healing properties in the 1980s, when they began bathing in the blue reservoir that formed near the Svartsengi geothermal power plant. Since Blue Lagoon Iceland’s official founding in 1992, guests have basked in its geothermal waters and soaked up healing minerals.
I made my way to the lagoon’s indoor entrance point, which helps waders adjust to the warm water before venturing into the chilly outdoor landscape. Treading with awe, I took in what appeared to be an alien planet consisting of pale blue waters and stark black lava rock. The lagoon’s amenities are
impeccably designed to ensure you never have to leave the water. On your left, you can trek to a silica mud mask bar. On your right, you can grab a drink. If you do, however, decide to emerge from the lagoon, you’re welcome to wander into the property’s sauna and steam room.
When planning your trip to the Blue Lagoon, be sure to tune into nearby volcanic activity. During our visit, spa staff members told us that the closest volcano was expected to erupt “any day now.” Instead of panicking, the Iceland natives — who are incredibly used to such intrusions — calmly told us to “keep an eye out.” (Upon returning to the States, I discovered that the volcano erupted approximately a week later.)
My glimpse into Iceland’s breathtaking landscapes didn’t end there. More natural wonders followed when we explored the Raufarhólshellir lava tunnel and hiked through Thingvellir National Park. After all this explor-
ing, we’d worked up an appetite, which we efficiently satiated. If you’re curious what “tastes of Iceland” are, allow me to indulge you: Rye bread ice cream, rich and spicy tomato soup, tender lamb and prime seafood graced my palate. And let us not forget the food stand I visited nearly every day of my trip, which serves the most supreme hot dogs I’ve ever tasted. In Iceland, meat and fish thrive, but this doesn’t mean vegetables don’t abound too. Friðheimar grows juicy, flavorful tomatoes yearround — even during Iceland’s notoriously dark winters. Through artificially lit greenhouses, the farm provides produce and other delights, including creamy soup, baked goods and even tomato beer. To top it all off, the property hosts horse shows and stable tours. It’s hard not to be entranced when a skilled rider speeds around a track and boasts that, at the end, her mug full of beer remained unspilled.
LoveFull Bloom in
At Larson Floral, we craft wedding florals as beautiful as your love story.
From breathtaking bouquets to stunning installations, we offer a variety of floral services for your special day.
Our commitment to luxurious floral designs has earned us a reputation as one of Nashville’s top florists, trusted by clients and respected by leading wedding vendors across Middle Tennessee.
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN
BEFORE OUR ARRIVAL in Stockholm, we took a pit stop in Uppsala, Sweden’s most charming college town. While Stockholm draws in travelers from around the world, our visit to Uppsala felt like a secluded, up-close display of local culture. We strolled through the historic town center, the stunning Uppsala Cathedral and Uppsala University’s scenic campus.
The 13 student nations at Uppsala University are a focal point of oncampus engagement, where students connect over shared interests, social gatherings and formals. We witnessed this formal tradition ourselves when passing by a nations house filled with students clad in black-tie attire, who sat at long, elegant dinner tables and sang in sweet harmony. The scene continued as my peers and I stopped for pizza and pasta at a local spot. We watched with amazement as young women, post-formal, entered the casual joint in their exquisite ball gowns.
A peaceful train ride led us into the nation’s capital. Oddly enough, Sweden’s rolling hills, lush vegetation and bountiful trees reminded me of Tennessee’s countryside. I appreciated finding a glimmer of home in a faraway place — that also happens to be breathtaking.
Stockholm masterfully incorporates sleek, modern elements while preserving and celebrating its historic charm. During my free moments, I wandered the streets and spent most of my time in Galma Stan, the “Old Town.” Warm-toned architecture, bicyclists and plenty of vegetation dotted my line of vision, and I found picturesque cafes with rich coffee and creamy tiramisu on practically every corner.
Scenery aside, we embarked on several delightful tours, including stops at the Royal Palace, the Nobel Prize Museum and the ABBA Museum — a particular highlight. After learning the intricate history of each band member and how they came together, my peers and I took turns swaying onstage to “Dancing Queen” while surrounded by holographic projections of the iconic musical group.
Naturally, our visit to Stockholm wouldn’t be Belmont-approved without a visit to Spotify’s headquarters. We met with the human resources department to gain a better understanding of their hiring process, business model and distinctly Swedish methods for creating community in the workplace. At Spotify HQ, well-being is a core pillar that is implemented throughout the company’s global offices. Notably, one of the trip’s aesthetic highlights came from this business visit. Spotify’s sleek building emitted a modern, playful feel and included unbeatable rooftop views of the city skyline.
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
OUR VISIT TO COPENHAGEN was the perfect grand finale. Strolling through the famed harbor of Nyhavn, I gazed at the colorful architecture and admired the skilled bicyclists who could be spotted zipping by on any Danish street. I’m also happy to report that Copenhagen’s iconic cafe scene exceeded my wildest dreams. (Picture the fluffiest pastries you’ve ever encountered.)
On a tour-filled day, we witnessed the city’s thriving art landscape and rich history in person. Statens Museum for Kunst is the largest gallery in Denmark, featuring over 200,000 works of art. A pass through the museum’s French exhibit led me to works by my favorite artist, Henri Matisse, whose bright colors and abstract depictions of the human form leapt from every canvas.
To amp up the glamour, we toured two castles: Rosenborg Castle, built in 1606, and the Christiansborg Palace, which houses Denmark’s government to this day. While both properties brim with breathtaking art and intricate tapestries, their distinguished qualities set them apart: Christiansborg Palace includes a library straight out of a fairy tale, while Rosenborg Castle features the glimmering crown jewels of Denmark’s past and present. Notably, our time in Denmark overlapped with King Frederik X’s birthday. If you happen to be in the area on May 26, be sure to stop by Christiansborg Palace to witness the royal family’s appearance on the balcony and a grand Changing of the Guard ceremony.
We balanced out these interactive history lessons with an adrenalinepacked day. Tivoli Gardens, which opened in 1843, is the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world. Danish author Hans Christian Andersen frequented the picturesque property, along with Walt Disney, who drew inspiration from the park to create Disneyland. The enchanting destination has held onto its vintage charm, with many structures inspired by Japanese architecture. When riding the Rutschebanen — the oldest roller coaster in Europe, circa 1914 — my friends and I squealed in amazement. Despite its age, the coaster is still as fast and thrilling as ever.
During my last moments in Scandinavia, I saw a trio of Danes taking a leisurely boat ride across the water. They laughed with each other, sipping white wine. As I lifted my phone to capture a photo of the scene, I locked eyes with the women, who began to grin and excitedly wave at me.
The resulting photograph is the best kind of souvenir, capturing core tenets of hygge and Nordic culture: peace, kindness, outdoor revelry and community.
BY MADELEINE BRADFORD PHOTOGRAPHS BY MADELEINE BRADFORD, JACK LANDESS
TU R NIN G POINT
Through international travel, Nashville Ballet builds a global audience
NICK MULLIKIN WANTS to put world-class dance on stage at Nashville Ballet, so he and his team are traveling the globe to build a program to capture the world’s attention.
“We want our audience in Nashville to experience the highest caliber of dancing,” says Nick, who joined the company in 2015 and became artistic director in 2023. “We want to scour the world for the best talent that we can bring back to our audience, so they can experience something unique and special.”
Since fall 2024, that worldly goal has led members of Nashville Ballet’s team to Japan, Germany, Italy, Brazil, Argentina, Mexico and the U.K. to recruit, teach, adjudicate international competitions, and introduce the company to the world’s most promising dancers aged 12 to 20.
SCOUTING THE GLOBE
SUCH FARFLUNG TRAVEL might ring familiar to sports fans — and that includes Nick. A former soccer and football player who left home at 16 to pursue a career in ballet, Nick saw the success of athletic coaches in recruiting talent. So he took a page from the playbook of legendary University of Alabama coach Nick Saban.
“In 2017, Nashville Ballet needed to expand recruiting, so we looked at really great football coaches’ camps where young students can get engaged,” Nick says. “We’re trying to facilitate connections and opportunities for engagement — like football players, who use word of mouth, forums and parents. We set it up to travel to different locations to encourage students to see how we do things in Nashville.”
Participating in Youth America Grand Prix international ballet competitions, Nick and Maria Conrad, director of Nashville Ballet’s junior company, NB2, have traveled to Córdoba in Veracruz, Mexico, for the last several years, developing relationships, encouraging dancer exchanges and studying the region’s culture.
For example, in Córdoba, they explored the tradition of Día de los Muertos, celebrating alongside local families as they honored their ancestors by cooking, playing music and feasting in cemeteries. Nick and Maria brought examples of traditional holiday attire back to Nashville, and, in conjunction with Veracruz-based designer Carolina Fernandez, developed a wardrobe for Nashville Ballet’s Día de los Muertos production in 2024.
LA NDM A RK SE A SON
“IT CHANGED OUR understanding of why we do this,” Nick says of Nashville Ballet’s efforts to explore global art and traditions. “We’re not just rubber-stamping. We’re creating something locally that resonates globally.”
Relationships made abroad will make their way onto the home stage this fall in Nashville Ballet’s 40th season, when Jorge Peña from Mexico and Joe Parker from The Royal Ballet School in London join the company in The Nutcracker, Swan Lake, If I Can Dream, and Sherlock Infused with talent, character and culture from around the world, the landmark Ruby Season aims to connect stories to movement in a way that cannot be duplicated anywhere else. “Nashville Ballet isn’t trying to be like any other company in the U.S.,” Nick says. “We’re shaping something that you can’t see anywhere else. Any first-time visitors to Nashville — as well as longtime patrons — will be blown away.”
BY CARRINGTON FOX PHOTOGRAPHS BY KARYN PHOTOGRAPHY, LYDIA MCRAE PHOTOGRAPHY
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Rain Date
Metro Water’s educational rain gardens seed ideas for sustainable landscaping at home
ON A BALMY MORNING, along a bend in the Cumberland River, a serene garden of native plants and grasses sways with the gentle breeze. Bright blooms of yellow yarrow, pink foxglove and purple catmint wave below a billowing flag of red, white and blue. As summer continues to set in, milkweed and coneflowers will bloom, and with them, butterflies will arrive. Standing in this lush and lovely landscape, if you squint really hard, maybe you could imagine yourself among private parterres inside an Impressionist painting.
Actually, the raised beds of this native-plant ecosystem reside on the second-floor roof of Metro Water Services’ Stormwater division, and you’re welcome to visit.
Located atop building B of the Stormwater Demonstration Campus on County Hospital Road, this fertile green roof — now in its second summer — is just one tool in Metro’s show-and-tell approach to mitigating stormwater runoff in a time of unprecedented development.
NATU RA L SOLUTIONS
“WHEN WE PAVED paradise and put up a parking lot, there was nowhere for the water to go,” says Julie Berbiglia, education specialist at Metro Water Services. The consequences of excessive water runoff include flash flooding and pollution, so Metro educates homeowners, builders and developers to improve water quality and reduce the volume flowing from impervious surfaces into waterways.
“Using natural solutions is what we’re promoting,” says Julie, looking out over the second-story garden, where plants soak up rainfall and provide a pollinator pathway for birds and insects.
In the parking lots surrounding the buildings, bioretention ponds capture runoff from pavement, much of which is already pervious. Lush low areas of the ponds are landscaped with native grasses, trees and plants that like “wet feet” and can handle soggy soil, while pooled water filters into the ground. Meanwhile, gabion baskets — wire-mesh containers filled with rocks — slow the flow of water through the ponds to minimize erosion.
Inside the building, a 10,000-gallon cistern collects water from the roof for nonpotable uses. Along County Hospital Road, as many as 500 newly planted trees soak up stormwater runoff between Metro Water Services and the nearby Cumberland River.
HOMEGR OWN PRO GRESS
“ALL ARE THINGS that people can mimic at home,” Julie says, listing rain gardens, rain barrels, native plants and trees among homeowner strategies to mitigate water runoff from residential properties.
Metro Water Services collaborates with University of Tennessee Extension to promote Tennessee Smart Yards, a program of nine principles to support healthy landscapes. Homeowners who meet guidelines related to selecting native plants, managing soils and pests, composting, watering efficiently, fertilizing appropriately, mitigating stormwater runoff, and protecting wildlife and waterways can earn certification, along with a metal sign designating their property a Tennessee Smart Yard.
While new building codes require engineering to keep the first inch of rainfall on a property, longtime residents of legacy properties can take steps to reduce the strain on stormwater systems.
“Any water that you keep on your property is water that doesn’t become runoff adding to flash flooding and pollution,” Julie says.
Tips for reducing quantity and improving quality of stormwater runoff:
• Clean up after pets in your own yard, not just when out walking.
• Keep an eye on storm drains. Clear them or call Hub Nashville for help.
• Follow the Tennessee Smart Yards checklist.
• Build rain gardens and retention pools. Cumberland River Compact offers instruction materials and on-site consultations.
• Install rain barrels to capture and redirect roof runoff.
• Install permeable paving.
• Plant trees.
BY CARRINGTON FOX PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANGELINA CASTILLO
MI MUR
Inside Nashville Zoo’s bold new exhibit ghting extinction, one leopard at a time
HIGH IN THE snow-covered hills of Primorsky Krai — a remote region of southeastern Russia — a ghost slinks through the birch trees. Her coat is dappled with obsidian rosettes. She moves in silence — nearly invisible, and nearly extinct. Thanks to habitat fragmentation, overharvesting, poaching and low genetic diversity, she is one of approximately 84 Amur leopards left in the world.
Thousands of miles away, in a city known for honky-tonks and transpotainment, a quiet revolution in conservation is underway. Nashville Zoo has joined the crusade to help conserve and protect this and other critically endangered species with its newly opened Leopard Forest habitat.
SEEING THE FO REST FO R THE T R EES
THOUGH NATIVE TO the forests along the Russia-China border, Amur leopards have found a new home in Leopard Forest — a dynamic exhibit that also features colobus monkeys, De Brazza’s monkeys, klipspringers, and the zoo’s beloved Masai giraffes.
Nashville Zoo joined the Association of Zoos and Aquariums’ Species Survival Plan program for Amur leopards, which helps maintain healthy, genetically diverse and self-sustaining animal populations in human care. Through participation in the SSP, the zoo can introduce more guests to the species — and why conservation matters. “[The exhibit is] showcasing those species so that we can inform people about what’s going on in the wild and what they can do to help,” says David Oehler, Nashville Zoo vice president.
Nashville Zoo CEO Rick Schwartz led the design of Leopard Forest, even scouring the property to identify and relocate the trees to meet the animals’ needs. He worked to create both a vibrant space for visitors and an ideal forest for the animals, favoring trees that — while from Middle Tennessee — felt reminiscent of the fauna in an African landscape.
NA SHVILLE ZOO’S GLOBA L FOOTP R INT
LEOPARD FOREST HIGHLIGHTS the zoo’s broader mission: global wildlife conservation. Many exhibits preserve wildlife through a program like SSP or SAFE (Save Animals From Extinction). The zoo’s staff members also have the extensive skills and connections to help with animal preservation efforts around the world.
After learning that four cheetah cubs were confiscated in Somalia, the zoo sent a team to help care for them and ensure their survival. Another team traveled to South Africa to help Save Giraffes Now relocate giraffes to safer areas, study them and help them thrive. “We work to put staff in a place where they can benefit wildlife through conservation, which is key,” David says.
Community outreach also plays a key role in animal survival programs. “You have to include the local community in any plan,” David says, noting that job creation and eco-tourism are great opportunities to engage the local community. “If you don’t have a community base, your program is not going to thrive.” The Amur leopard SSP, for example, includes the creation of a wildlife corridor that would give the animals access to spaces broken by highway construction and other development.
A CH A NCE TO M A KE A DIFFE R ENCE
THE LEOPARD FOREST exhibit is the first step in a multi-phase expansion designed to educate the community about the importance of animal conservation.
And Nashville Zoo visitors have their own part to play. The Round Up for Conservation program allows guests to round up to the nearest dollar on purchases they make at the zoo, with proceeds funding animal survival programs.
With around 80 Amur leopards left in the wild and around 200 leopards in zoos worldwide, each birth in captivity — and each lesson shared with the public — could mean the difference between survival and extinction. Leopard Forest isn’t just a new exhibit — it’s a lifeline, woven between continents and species, reminding us that even the rarest creatures still have a fighting chance.
BY JANET KURTZ PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF NASHVILLE ZOO
Kindy Hensler
Donnie Stanley
Collyn Wainwright
Stories in Every Corner
Nashville PBS ushers in a new era of ‘Tennessee Crossroads’
IN HIS 37 YEARS on air, Joe Elmore, host and founder of Tennessee Crossroads, held the record for being one of the most-watched faces on Nashville PBS (WNPT). He covered nearly every nook and cranny of Tennessee, connecting with viewers through his humor, kindness and fervent love of the state. After his death last June, producers Laura Faber, Vicki Yates and Miranda Cohen, under the guidance of senior producer Ed Jones, have filled in for Joe and continued to bring audiences inside the hidden parts of Tennessee’s vast communities.
Enter a new host: lifelong storyteller, longtime Tennessee Crossroads watcher and Old Crow Medicine Show frontman, Ketch Secor. “This is a show that I have been a viewer of for a couple decades now, and the programming is right up my alley,” says Ketch. “It’s all about the skills, stories and cultural touchstones that make the Volunteer State one of the most unique places in the U.S.”
Miranda Cohen, Ketch Secor, Vicki Yates, Laura Faber
UPLIFTING
LEG CY
SINCE ITS INCEPTION, Joe imbued Tennessee Crossroads with a legacy of rigorous storytelling, which Ketch intends to build upon. The show will, of course, continue to highlight local favorites, rather than the top search results on Tripadvisor. And it will also feature Ketch’s fresh voice. “Weaving these stories together is a true honor, because we’re telling the stories of the mom and pops,” says Miranda. “We don’t go to chains. We don’t go to places that have PR departments. We really find the hidden gems that are buried throughout Tennessee.”
Show producers say that Ketch, whom Ed calls a “born entertainer” and “natural poet,” will leverage his musical background to tell thorough, heartfelt stories in a new format. “A lot of songwriting is about reaching out beyond your own boundaries and finding commonality with others,” says Ketch. “I think the TV show is going to be a pretty simple leap, because I’m already in the habit of telling stories that aren’t my own and making them mine — and ultimately, making them the listener’s.”
Ketch himself admits Tennessee has been the guiding force behind much of his original music. “Even in his new solo album, he’s singing about Nashville,” says Laura. “That is … what we do on a daily basis, every time we go into a story.”
Ketch Secor
Joe Elmore
IMP CTING B CKYRD COMMUNITIES
WHILE TENNESSEE CROSSROADS segments are entertaining, they aren’t solely meant to amuse. Rather, they uplift small businesses and help entrepreneurs, artisans and employees put food on the table. “We’re not just inviting Tennesseans to explore their own backyards,” says Ketch. “Folks from across the South are being encouraged to come see what makes Tennessee such a special place that’s worth visiting again and again.”
This reimagining of Tennessee Crossroads comes at a crucial time, when supporting public media has become increasingly important. In mid-July, the House of Representatives approved a $9 billion federal funding cut for public broadcasting. While this decision impacts PBS and NPR on a national level, local affiliates will also bear the consequences.
“It’s unfortunate we’re in a national narrative right now that skews public media in a light that, if you look at the local level, is not reflective of who we are,” says Becky Magura, CEO and president of WNPT.
WHAT WE CAN DO
DESPITE STEPPING IN at an uncertain time, Ketch is using his platform to showcase how local communities can support the public media outlets that serve them. “I made my television debut as a sixth grader in Virginia, answering phone calls for a PBS telethon,” says Ketch. “Ever since then, I’ve known the unique role that public television plays, particularly in rural places. It’s often the only weather, news and information source in a region, and it’s something that belongs to all of us collectively.”
Becky has encouraged supporters to donate, become members and watch their favorite programs on the free PBS app. “We’re going to have a challenge to replace this money, but I feel confident that the public will be with us,” she says, adding that she trusts the local station isn’t going anywhere. In fact, Becky intends to expand Tennessee Crossroads’ viewership in bordering states and further the production of vital children’s programming. “Public television has always been that trusted, reliable partner in raising a generation of citizens,” she says.
Much like Tennessee Crossroads, WNPT’s goal is to educate local communities about what’s happening nationwide — and to showcase our local communities to the rest of the country. “I love the fact that we truly are the public’s media,” says Becky. “We are here to, in rural communities, be that public safety infrastructure, where they learn of things that are happening outside — but also, [to] take their voice and reflect it back out into the state and the federal landscape.”
BY MADELEINE BRADFORD PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF NASHVILLE PBS
Classic, Western and Sartorial
Designer Todd Snyder provides an inside glimpse into his 12South location
IN A CITY where civilians uphold the art of dressing, it’s little wonder that Nashvillians flock to Todd Snyder’s designs, which manage to be equally classic and cutting-edge. The New-York-based designer’s versatile collections can be dressed up for elegant black-tie evenings or transformed into casual, laid-back attire. Picture masterfully tailored pieces, often featuring playful pops of color and lush fabrics ranging from sueded linen to shimmering silk.
Todd’s 12South location attracted a lot of buzz when it opened in June. And that comes as no surprise. For years, the brand has been a top seller at Nashville’s Nordstrom, and the demand for its pieces remains unceasing.
Featuring fresh releases and curated vintage items, Todd’s standalone shop is a museum for fashion fanatics. His designs guide customers’ looks, but leave artistic freedom in their hands, beckoning guests to style them uniquely and weave them into a long-lasting wardrobe.
In celebration of his store’s unveiling, Todd visited with Nfocus and shared his process for creating a space that authentically serves Nashville’s fashion scene.
Why Nashville? What enticed you to open this location, and how does this make sense for your brand?
It’s kind of an easy answer. As we think about opening stores, we want to open in cities where guys like clothes. Nashville has its own unique style, and guys really like to dress up here. And to be honest with you, I think our store staff is the best at it. Everything — from wearing a suit with a cowboy hat, or wearing shorts with a jacket — the way they style it is really special. I knew that was going to be the case, but I didn’t realize until we got here how men really appreciate clothes. I had an inkling of an idea, and now it’s all been confirmed.
What’s your perception of Nashville’s fashion scene, and how has it evolved since you’ve visited?
It’s blown my mind, to be quite frank. A lot of people were coming into the store [saying], “Thank you for opening here. We need you.” When I used to sell wholesale to Nordstrom, [the city] was
in our top four or five stores, which says a lot about Nashville. The Nashville Nordstrom is small, but there’s demand there. Everyone from celebrities to musicians to athletes to normal people — there’s such a good balance.
There’s amazing culture in Nashville, from education to architecture to music. Everybody’s very humble. Sometimes you go to certain cities and it’s very flashy, whereas I think Nashville is very understated, but still very sophisticated, very cool. When you have a cool city, it usually means clothes come with it — and jewelry, by the way. We’ve been selling a lot of jewelry in our store.
What jewelry pieces have people been gravitating toward?
The vintage watches have been a huge runaway success. Guys are buying them, whether it’s a wedding present or birthday present or what have you. There’s great vintage in Nashville, but I would say there’s not [the] elevated, collectible vintage that we carry. We like watches that are really rare.
What steps did you take to create a shop that’s authentic to 12South?
Whenever we open a store, we want the store to [offer] a sense of discovery. We want you to come in and be surprised and delighted. That’s where the vintage comes in, but we also do a lot of collaborations and work with [Weiss Watch Company], which is a local business. We have vintage cowboy boots in there and cowboy hats. We want it to feel genuine.
And that’s the best thing about the store staff — they complete it. They’re some of the coolest people in town, and they’re really good at making people feel comfortable. [It’s] the perfect blend of what we are as a brand: gentlemanly sartorial [menswear] mixed with Western flair, whether it’s denim or cowboy boots or jewelry.
How does the mural on the building’s exterior reflect your brand’s mission?
Nashville is famous for these amazing murals, and art is a big thing. Richard Haines is someone who’s super dear to me, and he’s an amazing illustrator. I wanted to do something that was an ode to Nashville and architecture, but also us as a brand. We commissioned him to create illustrations for the store, which, to me, shows that it’s a menswear store, and at the same time pays tribute to all the amazing murals down there.
What exclusive items can guests find in-store?
One of our more iconic pieces is called the Dylan Jacket, which is a suede trucker jacket. We did a Nashville color in it, and it’s this beautiful whiskey color. That’s been doing well, even though it’s kind of hot right now. We have cowboy boots in there — those are unique.
And then, we work with Eneby Home, which is an amazing interior store that sells a lot of antique furniture. We worked with them on curating the furniture in there. It’s not for sale, but it’s hard to find and just completes the whole thing. We want to be a part of the community in an authentic way. We don’t want to
be fake about it. We want to continue the partnership with a lot of the local retailers and brands, because I think it’s important to be part of the neighborhood.
That’s where our staff comes in. They are so good at connecting the dots between who we are and what style means for Nashville … It’s really meant to be versatile, and that’s kind of how we are in New York. We’re not too serious. We take dressing very seriously, but we’re not going to be ostentatious about it.
How do you hope to see style in Nashville develop? Continue on its path. I think it’s going to evolve and change, just the way music does. Sometimes music takes a different path, where you have many genres of country music, and that’s going to continue to evolve. I would put fashion being tied into that — fashion is a reflection of what’s happening in culture.
That’s what I love about fashion: How does someone else reinterpret it in their own style? We don’t want to change their style. We want to be there for them to derive from.
What in-store styles are women grabbing off the racks?
Typically, it’s the suits — and then it’s the sweaters. There’s something going on right now in womenswear, where they’re wanting to have the boyfriend coat. They want that old-school, oversized suit jacket. That is a great compliment to us, because I think one thing that differentiates us is the tailoring.
I didn’t know this until my grandma told me — “Snyder” in Dutch means “cutter.” A cutter is the person who actually makes the pattern for the customer. I had so many people giving me a hard time about being a designer, but tailoring is in my blood. I worked in an immense haberdashery in Iowa, and that’s where I cut my teeth and fell in love with clothes. I like helping people dress better. That’s really what I think my calling is.
BY MADELEINE BRADFORD PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF TODD SNYDER
Keswick Hll’s
Next Century
e sister property of Nashville’s Hermitage Hotel o ers a Virginia respite
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION. That’s the mantra behind real estate, of course. It’s also one of the ways the historic Keswick Hall stands out in a world of luxury resorts. Keswick Hall is nestled at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains, just minutes from Charlottesville, Va., and the University of Virginia campus, Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello, and Virginia’s wine country.
Keswick Hall has stood tall since 1912, enjoying its proximity to the mountains and to history — first as a private residence, then as a country club and then a hotel. (In one iteration, the widower of Laura Ashley transformed the mansion of the on-site golf club into a luxury resort outfitted with the fashion icon’s designs.) In recent years, owners Molly and Robert Hardie renovated the luxury property, expanding guest rooms (from 48 to 80), adding a spa, and making the beloved resort even more of a luxury destination.
One of the best examples of Italianate-style architecture in the state of Virginia, Keswick Hall’s main mansion is a centerpiece to the 600-acre resort. And with the large expansion of landscape and the small number of guest rooms, checking in feels a little bit like motoring up to a private house in the country, rather than a hotel.
The renovation of the guest rooms offers modern design with classical elements and a neutral palette. Light woods and marble finishes add modernity and sophistication, while custom bedding provides luxury and comfort. Designers kept sustainability in mind with a state-of-the-art air purification system and filtered water hydration stations on guest room floors.
G ME ON
PEOPLE LOVE KESWICK HALL
— not only because of its history and location — but because of everything they can do without leaving the resort. Fans of the game of kings appreciate Full Cry, Keswick’s champion golf course. The award-winning course is a Pete Dye masterpiece that’s ranked among the top public courses in the country. Avid players, as well those who just take to the links for an occasional round, appreciate Full Cry’s minimalist design, which accentuates the surrounding landscape. That scenery is dotted with native plants and flowers, making for year-round interest.
If you prefer tennis over golf, Keswick Hall lets you pretend you’re swinging a racquet at Roland Garros, as its seven fully renovated courts feature authentic European red clay. Two of those are hybrid Claytech courts, built atop hard-court foundations, making it possible to play in all weather. The other five are Garrosworthy sub-irrigated red clay courts, which isn’t something you’d typically find in the Virginia
countryside. Court rental includes use of equipment, so guests don’t even have to remember to bring their own racquets. Private lessons, group drills and boutique tournaments are available. And for those who don’t feel like there are enough hours in the day to fit it all in (because there are so many activities), LED lights make it easy to play after sunset.
For swimmers, there’s the Horizon Pool — a two-level, infinity-edge, saltwater pool that provides breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and golf course. It also offers the traditional resort pool experience, with cabanas, poolside cocktail service and plenty of places to relax with a book (sun or shade).
With the hotel renovation also came the reopening of the spa and salon in 2022. Treatments feature products made with honey from nearby Oakdale Farm, which provides some produce for the resort’s farm-to-table restaurant. Services range from the traditional to chakra-balancing energy work.
DINE IN
THE HOTEL’S RESTAURANT, Marigold, is helmed by celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Keswick Hall is one of only two properties with a Vongerichten restaurant in the American South (the other being The Hermitage Hotel). The renovation included making a new entrance for Marigold so that folks who weren’t guests of the property felt comfortable coming there to dine (either indoors or outdoors).
Marigold’s emphasis is on seasonal and organic ingredients. The wine list is a mix of Old World classics and the best local wines from the surrounding Virginia wine country (which guests can tour and taste while in the area). And while it’s a luxury dining space, it’s not overly ornate or extravagant.
The serene vibe is a match for the resort’s ethos of being a place to relax and unwind. Cooking classes and gardening tours allow guests to go deeper into what makes Keswick Hall tick.
UNWIND A ND EXPLO RE
WITH ALL THE AMENITIES, there are many reasons to leave guest rooms and explore. But there’s a lot of motivation to stay in, too.
Some rooms in the hotel have balconies with stunning vistas, and some have fireplaces. Chocolates on the pillow during turndown service are made in-house, and there’s even a signature scent for the hotel.
Like the scent, Keswick Hall is about the little details. There’s a library with a ladder to help access tomes on the top shelves. The Snooker Room features a top-notch table. The fitness center has ample equipment and plenty of windows, with more good views and lots of natural light. A portion of the resort fee at the hotel supports the nonprofit Monticello, and EV chargers make life easier for guests with electric vehicles.
All of that is provided at a resort nestled into a landscape that reflects and respects the surrounding topography of the region — honoring its past and preparing for the future.
BY MARGARET LITTMAN PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF KESWICK HALL
Supporting Newborns and Moms at the Beaman Neonatal Intensive Care Unit, Labor and Delivery, and Postpartum at Ascension Saint Thomas Midtown
Galerie Tangerine
Julie & Lee Beaman and the Beaman Foundation
A Gentlemen’s Trip to Iceland
Choose your own adventure in the ‘land of fire and ice’
WHEN MY COLLEAGUE, Nfocus editorin-chief Janet Kurtz, asked me to write about my recent “gentlemen’s trip to Iceland,” my first thought was, “That is an extremely generous application of the term ‘gentlemen.’”
In late May, a few weeks ahead of his wedding, a good friend took his bachelor party international, inviting several pals and close family members for a roughly weeklong excursion to Iceland. And by “several,” I mean there were 22 of us — 22 men, many of whom have been friends since we were teenagers, and are inclined to let our more reckless and juvenile sensibilities run wild when in each other’s company. Traveling to the “land of fire and ice” just weeks after the Nashville
International Airport introduced direct flights there, I was concerned we’d make bad ambassadors — embarrassing ourselves at best, or causing some sort of international incident at worst. “We should probably all memorize the number of the American embassy,” I thought.
Ultimately, there were no incidents. None serious enough to contact the embassy over, anyway. We still slipped into our antics here and there — drinking too much gin and hiding cured meat in each other’s luggage — but Iceland’s sights are humbling. From the inhospitable, alien landscape that flanks long stretches of the island nation’s Ring Road to waterfalls like the thundering 200-foot Skógafoss, we filled our days with awe-inspiring scenes.
SNORKELING IN THE R IFT
THE FIRST SURREAL moment came just a few hours after we debarked at Keflavík International Airport. Our first group activity was snorkeling in the Silfra fissure — the glacierwater-filled gap between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. Crammed into dry suits and goggles, our faces numbed by the frigid water, we floated face-down through the electricblue underwater landscape of the fissure, watching undisturbed seabed pass beneath us.
“This time yesterday I was filling out a spreadsheet,” I remember thinking to myself, the sound of icy freshwater gurgling in my ears. Some of us did better than others with the claustrophobia of it all, but our guides at Arctic Adventures managed to keep us from drifting into the rift-valley lake Þingvallavatn — a fate that would’ve required a helicopter rescue, one guide told us.
HOT SP R ING HOME BA SE
FOR MOST OF OUR TRIP, we lodged at Hvammsvik Nature Resort, whose natural hot springs are a popular tourist destination. The property features a number of rentable lodges — some of them farmhouses built many decades ago and recently renovated — as well as Stormur Bistro, which boasts the best food in the area. (OK, it’s the only option for miles, but it’s got a delicious and savory seafood soup, plenty of wine and beer options, and a swim-up bar adjacent to one of the area’s geothermal pools.)
The property is situated on a small peninsula that juts out into the Hvalfjörður fjord, a narrow channel fed by the Atlantic that offered us occasional glimpses of marine wildlife. I spotted one curious seal, and while my attempts at fishing were fruitless, the groom’s dad managed to catch something.
BL ACK S A ND AND
BE ACHED ICEBE R GS
OUR BACHELOR-IN-CHIEF offered us the option of bowing out of the long road trip required to reach Diamond Beach, a black-sand beach roughly 4.5 hours from the capital city of Reykjavík. But everyone in our caravan — composed of a half-dozen vehicles — was game for the coastal trek along the Ring Road, which offered us countless stunning vistas. More than once, I murmured “every view is a knockout” to my car mates, who agreed to let me hop out and photograph a family of sheep. Icelandic sheep are thought to have been introduced to the island more than a thousand years ago. The locals didn’t share my glee. It’s the only time we were honked at.
Diamond Beach, whose name is technically Eystri-Fellsfjara, was worth the drive. In a land full of sites that look like the sets of Ridley Scott films, this was the most cinematic. (Scott did film a portion of 2012’s Prometheus in Iceland, but I’ll fight the urge to digress into that topic.)
Diamond Beach is so nicknamed for the glistening chunks of iceberg strewn along its jet-black shore. It’s a stunning sight — one that jolted us from the bleary-eyed state we’d found ourselves in after a long drive made while jet-lagged and about 75% hungover. Adjacent to Diamond Beach, on the inland side of the Ring Road, Glacier Lagoon (Jökulsárlón) is dotted with sapphire-hued icebergs and offers some of the best photo opps in the entire nation. Boat tours are available.
MO R E TO EXPLO RE
OTHER HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDED a day trip to the island of Heimaey — the largest of the Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar). Traveling there by ferry, we passed the tiny island of Elliðaey, which features a photogenic hunting lodge that is not actually Björk’s home — no matter what the internet tells you. Heimaey offers gorgeous hikes, views of puffins (and more sheep) and a handful of tourist-friendly pubs and restaurants. For the definition of quaint, visit the seaside town Vik. For the most nightlife Iceland has to offer, spend time in Reykjavík. Though half the nation’s population is concentrated in the capital, the total Icelandic population is roughly half of Nashville’s — about 398,000 people. Reykjavík offers many opportunities to take a spa day. You can also try one of the nation’s famous hot dogs, or even experience a rite of passage for travelers: having a bite of fermented shark and tossing back a shot of brennevín, which requires bravery. And be kind to your flight crew on the trip home. You never know how many 22-member bachelor parties they’ve had to endure recently.
BY D. PATRICK RODGERS
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF D. PATRICK RODGERS AND HVAMMSVÍK HOT SPRINGS & NATURE RESORT
SMoved by the Spirits
The seventh annual Spirits of Summer serves up an out-of-this-world evening
ummer is a season made for celebration — and the Nashville Symphony Crescendo Club’s Spirits of Summer cocktail competition proved just that. Guests arrived at the Schermerhorn Symphony Center to find the lobby transformed into a celestial wonderland. Aura photography captivated the curious, couples indulged in joint birth chart readings, and in one corner, Renaissance man, chef and DJ Sean Brock set the mood with vinyl as partygoers snacked on Joyland cheeseburgers and chicken tenders.
Co-chairs Andrew Horowitz and Morgan Karr — who dressed the part with glowing shoes and out-of-this-world attire — worked the room while guests sipped cocktails and watched an incredible aerial hoop performance. Inside the Laura Turner Concert Hall, revelers gathered at the cocktail bar under the ever-present glow of a UFO installation.
As the crowd settled into their seats, Andrew and Morgan welcomed everyone and thanked them for supporting the Nashville Symphony. Principal pops conductor Enrico LopezYañez then took the stage, leading four curated musical selections — each paired with a signature cocktail crafted by a standout Nashville mixologist.
The lineup featured Thomas Goad of Bar Audrey, Demi Natoli of White Limozeen, Storm Sheler of The Fox Bar & Cocktail Club, and Jason Sorbet of Barrel Proof. The musical program featured an exciting range of compositions performed by the Nashville Symphony, including works by Mozart and Holst and film scores by John Williams and Michael Giacchino. The night even featured a work composed by Enrico himself.
Though each cocktail-music pairing was compelling, guests voted on their favorites. In the end, it was Barrel Proof’s Jason Sorbet who took home the prize for his cocktail, the Kessel Run.
BY JANET KURTZ PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND
Sophie Howell, co-chair Andrew Horowitz
Lynlee Kennedy, Karen Locke, co-chair Morgan Karr, Gabriel Starner
Rick Horne, Mark Peacock, Vicki Horne, Nancy Peacock
Sean Brock
Belinda Berry, Thomas Barrett
Keeley Locke, Adam Sloan, Landen Turner
Jenneen Reed, Alan Valentine
Susan Hart, Paul Kennelly
Brinin the Het
Spirits soar at the annual Whitland Avenue Fourth of July Parade
Since 1977, the annual Whitland Avenue Fourth of July Parade has reassured neighbors and friends of one simple truth: The most memorable traditions are worth preserving. The same spirit that inspired neighbors Carole and John Sergent, Pat and Dan Burton, Nancy and Alan Saturn, and Slick Lawson to found the event still motivates passionate community members to plan the annual celebration today. This year’s patriotic antics included hot dogs, heartfelt brass arrangements, and lavish red-white-and-blue attire. And thanks to more manageable outdoor temps, revelers were able to enjoy activities without retreating indoors for AC breaks.
As always, putting on the parade is a team effort, and many living room gatherings precede the grand moment. David and Tessa Stewart boldly led the “Patriots” — devoted neighbors who bring the revelry to life each year. Prior to the parade’s prompt kickoff at 11 a.m., many neighbors hosted front-yard gatherings to rally their friends and amp up the festivities before relocating to the parade. David and Carrington Fox hosted such a gathering at their stunning home, where they led a constitutional trivia game that kept crowd members on their toes — and gave them the chance to win pocket-sized Constitutions and books by local authors.
Sunny attendees poured into the street. Festive flags waved lightly in the breeze overhead, and the crowd brimmed with laughter and lively conversation. Per usual, a miniature train led the way as jubilant kids on scooters, trikes and wagons kick-started the celebration. Parade marchers proudly displayed the “Whitland Fourth of July” banner, which has carried the spirit of the occasion for nearly half a century. And once again, the Whitland band played a stunning rendition of “America the Beautiful,” which entranced the crowd and captured the devoted, community-based spirit of the event.
BY MADELEINE BRADFORD PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC ENGLAND
Alice and Max Goldberg with Jasper
Melissa and Justin Schmidt with Madeline and Vivian
Amy and Owen Joyner
Julius Fox, Gabe Fisher, Browning Trainer Scott and Meredith Ponce with Maria
Ellen Reynolds, Emily Reynolds
Phyllis and Stanley Frank
Liza Jones with Wally, Rainer and Lyle
Ann Richards Jim Brown, Jeff Yarbro, Anne Blair Brown, Trey Finney, Maureen Doyle
Audrey Shulman, Ella Mironova, Jim Shulman with James
Tom Wood, Alex Smirnov
Gretchen Herbert, Tara Herbert, with Davis and Murray
Mac Kelly, Owen Kelly, Beth Heaney, Ann Kelly with Harper and Patch
When Doves Fry
Doves à la Slick Lawson
I’VE NEVER MUCH enjoyed eating doves. Not because I’m against hunting or anything high-minded like that. It’s mostly because I’ve thought eating doves was about as rewarding as eating coin purses. So much work, fishing bird ribs from your esophagus, nibbling around errant beads of shot, acting grateful that someone schlepped an ill-behaved dog into a field of ticks to provide what could just as easily be bacon-wrapped breasts of gerbil. No thanks.
But that’s all changed after my recent dinner with gourmand photographer, writer and motorcycle enthusiast Slick Lawson, the de facto executive chef of the Buffalo River Ranch.
Buffalo River Ranch is a private hunting club out Highway 13, and I’d heard more than one BRR hunter speak longingly of Slick’s annual feast there on the opening day of dove season. They promised me Slick didn’t soak the doves in milk, he didn’t wrap them in bacon — he didn’t even leave the bones in. So I finagled an invitation to eat doves à la Slick, and he agreed to educate six lukewarm dove eaters in the finer ways of preparing the kill.
Our dove-cooking clinic was held back in town, far from the BRR cabin kitchen. Nonetheless, Slick taught us The Hunter’s Covenant: “It’s not a clean kill ’til the game is prepared with care and skill and shared with friends and a good bottle of wine.” Then he delivered a menu of flash-fried dove breasts, Escoffier hunter sauce, and Moroccan rice. Side dishes included tomatoes filled with artichoke hearts and pesto, plain rice, mashed potatoes, and French bread. (It takes strong people to serve four starches, Slick notes.) Dessert was crêpes with vanilla ice cream and a wild berry flambé flavored with a touch of New Orleans-style coffee.
“I always debone the dove breasts,” Slick says. “It’s improper to have a group of civilized people in captivity growling and gnawing on bones like alley cats.” But beyond that, Slick’s recipe was designed to accentuate the wild flavor of the game, rather than to subdue it. “One of the reasons we hunt game is that everything at the Kroger counter looks and tastes the same,” he says. “But the wild taste has some substance to it.” Slick managed to showcase the wild taste in a most refined manner, without the slightest trace of dogs, ticks or gerbils.
BY CARRINGTON FOX, NFOCUS OCTOBER 2001
BY SLICK LAWSON
PHOTOGRAPH
Here’s to 20 Years, Nashville
For 20 years, you’ve trusted us with your biggest moments. From all of us at Genesis Diamonds, thank you for letting us be part of your story. Here’s to the next 20, Nashville!
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