HERITAGE IN MOTION
DATE: November 27 and November 28, 2024
PLACE: SENA Auditorium. Chapinero
ORGANIZER: Entre Soles y Lunas Foundation.
SUPPORTED: Sena Colombia; Intendancy of Salto-Uruguay; Salto Emprende; Department of promotion and development; Lanificio de Livenza; Chamber of Fashion of Guatemala.
HERITAGE IN MOTION
It is the annual and institutional event of Entre Soles y Lunas Foundation that is consolidated year after year. Its internationalization and current issues that it welcomes, position it as a space for co-creation and rapprochement between different actors of society in order to find solutions, exchanges and approaches between different actors and their needs. Heritage in Motion has been successfully developed in different countries of Ibero-America with the support of diverse actors, the permanent involvement and jointly work with States, Social Organizations and the Academy to interact and enhance knowledge, realities, needs and operability with the aim of promoting development from different angles and social components and, always respecting and including the ecosystems present on the planet.
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TABLE OF CONTENT
1. “Uruguay Lanero”:
1.1. Presented by: Magdalena Rocanova.
1.2. Head of External Institutional Communication.
1.3. Uruguayan Wool Secretariat.
1.4. Montevideo, Uruguay.
2. “Our Ancestors Taken to Art”:
2.1. Presented by: Jackeline Marin Kuan.
2.2. Textile Designer and Silvia Rojas,
2.3. Secretary of Culture
2.4. Iza, Boyacá. Colombia.
3. Marulanda, treasure and tradition of Caldas.
3.1. Presented by María Mercedes Peña.
3.2. Designer crafts unit cdc and
3.3. Gloria Duque,
3.4. Crafts Coordinator
3.5. Textile designer Corporation for the development of Caldas
3.6. Marulanda, Caldas, Colombia
4. Tradition and Sustainability: La Tejeduría de La Esperanza.
4.1. Presented by: Marco Antonio Pabón.
4.2. Sena Regional Cauca Crafts Instructor
4.3. Popayán, Cauca, Colombia
5. Imagine, Enjoy, Weave, Live.
5.1. Presented by: Alba Sánchez Quintero.
5.2. GoSpace404 SAS BIC -
5.3. Independent Writer/Researcher.
5.4. Guicán de la Sierra,
5.5. Guicán de la Sierra, Boyacá, Colombia.
6. Lanera Transformation Center:
6.1. Presented by: Diana Constanza Pérez
6.2. Dewhurst Group SAS and
6.3. Paula Forero.
6.4. Velasco de Gayo / Cuna y Taller de Inspiración SAS.
6.5. Paipa- Boyacá and Bogotá Colombia
7. Living Tailoring: Wool and Design in Evolution.
7.1. Presented by: Mateo Esteban Jimenez Molina.
7.2. Teacher of the fashion design program.
7.3. National Unified Corporation of Higher Education
7.4. Bogotá, Colombia.
8. Presentation of Spiral Economy:
8.1. Presented by: Doris Helena Rojas
8.2. General Director.
8.3. Entre Soles y Lunas Foundation.
8.4. Montevideo, Uruguay.
9. Wool’s impact on the luxury industry.
9.1. Presented by: Bryan Quan,
9.2. Director of Lanificio di Livenza.
9.3. Guatemala City, Guatemala
10. Cardolán and its impact on Lanero development in Colombia.
10.1. Presented by: Paola Ruiz Jurado.
10.2. Veterinarian and zootechnician. Specialist in Animal Welfare and Ethology
10.3. Miryam Asthric Giraldo Goddess.
10.4. Legal Reprensetative of the Association of Tejedoras(res) of Cundinamarca and Boyacá Cardolán Association of Hilanderas of Cundinamarca and Boyacá -HILANA
10.5. Cundinamarca - Boyacá. Colombia.
11. 12. Characteristics of Wool and Made in Italy.
11.1. Presented by: Giovanni Maria Conti.
11.2. Head of weaving projects for research and teaching at the School of Design of the Politecnico di Milano.
11.3. Milan- Italy.
12. Living tissue, with living threads.
12.1. Presented by: Juliana Eraso Cháves,
12.2. Researcher at Nina Tejido de Vida.
12.3. Pasto (Nariño) - Colombia
13. Dye memory, organic dyeing and sheep wool textile bases for the fashion industry.
13.1. Presented by: Angélica María González Flórez.
13.2. Research Professor National Unified Corporation of Higher Education
13.3. Bogotá. Colombia
14. La Trama y la Urdimbre de los Tejidos en Nobsa.
14.1. Presented by: Paloma Catalina Sandoval Gracia.
14.2. Anthropologist, Master in Sustainable Living Systems and
14.3. Emma Judith Salamanca.
14.4. Anthropologist Co-investigator, Master in Sustainable Living Systems. Research to qualify for the title of the Transdisciplinary Master in Sustainable Living Systems of the Externado University of Colombia
15. We build country. LNAVRGN.
15.1. Presented by: Carolina Alvarez and Cristian Lozano
15.2. CEO of Lana Virgen
15.3. LNAVRGN, a brand that adds value to our resources.
15.4. Bogotá, Colombia.
ACTIVITY OVERVIEW:
Heritage No. 16. Institutional event of the Entre Soles y Lunas Foundation was held at the Auditorio del Sena in the city of Bogotá; a state entity in Colombia that provides quality tertiary education. The theme defined for this edition has been wool from the perspective of the “Living Wool” project executed by the Entre Soles y Lunas Foundation and which aims to boost the wool industry and production at the Latin American level, a program framed within the “Heritage for Regeneration” program.
“LIVING WOOL” was born as a response to the need to strengthen the wool value chain in Latin America and that initially links Uruguay, Colombia and Guatemala as primary axes to promote exchange, comprehensive improvement in the production, process and trade of wool, to drive development and raise the quality of life in the communities.
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In Uruguay, the wool system has been recognized as an intangible cultural heritage by the country’s parliament due to its cultural permanence and traditional use. Although there is a solid wool tradition, it is urgent to modernize production techniques and strengthen the entrepreneurial capacities of the communities involved.
In Colombia, wool production is of a non-competitive quality in the demand of international markets and especially, the women who form the production chain need to be supported to improve processes, add value to their work and compete in conditions within local, regional and international markets.
In Guatemala, the specific needs range from the rescue of sheep that are in danger of extinction to the strengthening of the industry to respond to quality.
It is considered urgent to revitalize the wool industry through education and training, focusing on empowering women entrepreneurs and improving the quality of wool products. Living Wool is proposed as a long-term project that, in its first phase, will focus on offering technical training, skills development, exchanges of experiences, knowledge and trading strategies among the actors involved.
Although the initial focus of the project is concentrated in the countries described, there is openness to other actors that add value to the process to enhance its use and valuation, allowing this resource not to end up in landfills as waste, aggravating the situation that resembles the problems of the Atacama Desert where thousands of tons of discarded clothes accumulate as a reminder of mass consumption. ‘Living Wool’, aims to take
advantage of the wool resource to revitalize textile practices and promote a spiral economy that values the nobility of fiber.
Through the strengthening of capacities, the conservation of ancestral techniques and the creation of high quality products, Living Wool aspires to position this fiber in the regenerative fashion system. To achieve this, it is important to involve the cooperation and empowerment of rural communities who are consolidated as pillars capable of transforming the wool value chain in Latin America from regeneration and the promotion of inclusive development in international markets. Living Wool will establish a network of collaboration between educational institutions, organizations of the textile sector and international experts to facilitate the exchange of knowledge and good practices.
DAY 1
DAY 1
1. Presentation: “Wool cultural system: Draft declaration of intangible heritage interest of the nation of Uruguay lanero” - Magdalena Rocanova
Key points:
1.1. Intangible cultural heritage: Wool is a central element in Uruguayan culture and its recognition as intangible cultural heritage is sought.
1.2. Communication and sustainability: The communication strategy focuses on the sustainable development of the wool chain.a lana es un elemento central en la cultura uruguaya y se busca su reconocimiento como patrimonio cultural inmaterial.
1.3. Strengthening the sheep sector: It seeks to promote the strengths of the sheep sector in general, with a focus on wool production.
1.4. Target audience: The communication is aimed at
both the national public (general population, educators, government) and the international public.
1.5. Wool chain: The importance of the wool chain in Uruguay is highlighted, involving producers, workers, artisans, industries, designers and researchers.
1.6. Safeguarding: Possible thematic axes for the safeguarding of the wool cultural system are mentioned, such as the development of productive systems, the adoption of technologies, the control of predators, training, education, the opening of new markets, environmental sustainability, the quality of artisanal products, the identification of locations and practices at risk, and the development of alternative uses of wool.
Abstract: Magdalena Rocanova, head of communication of the Uruguayan Wool Secretariat (SUL), presented the draft
declaration of wool as intangible cultural heritage of Uruguay. The presentation focused on the communication strategy of the SUL, which seeks to promote the sustainable development of the wool chain at the national and international level.
Rocanova highlighted the importance of wool in Uruguayan culture and the need to strengthen the sheep sector. The various actors involved in the wool chain were mentioned and possible thematic axes for the safeguarding of the wool cultural system were presented, which include aspects such as production, technology, trade, education and sustainability.
The project seeks to recognize the cultural and economic value of wool in Uruguay and ensure its preservation for future generations.
2. Presentation: “Our Ancestors Taken to Art” - Silvia Rojas and Jacqueline Marin Kuan
Key points:
2.1. Iza, Boyacá: The presentation focuses on the community of Iza, Boyacá, and its textile heritage with roots in the Muisca culture.
2.2. Muisca Legacy: The influence of the Muisca culture on the textile traditions of Iza is described.
2.3. Wool: The importance of wool in the elaboration of textiles in Iza, introduced after the Spanish conquest, is highlighted.
2.4. Artisans: Different Iza artisans working with wool are presented, including Norma Cerón, Sully Lorena Vega, Patricia Zambrano Rincón, Jacqueline Marin Kuan, Silvino Patiño, Ruth Preciado and Luz Dary Rodríguez.
2.5. Workshops: Workshops where textiles are made are shown, such as “El Buen Loom de la Mona”, “Su, Jewels and Accessories”, “Lanosso”, “La Cañuela”, “Rebanca”, “IZANA
SPINNING WHEEL”, “Hilando Familias” and “HILANDERÍA
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TRAMARTE”.
2.6. Innovation: There is a need to merge ancestral techniques with new trends for the future of wool weaving.
2.7. “Warps and Wefts of the Green Nest” catwalk: Mention is made of the fashion catwalk that exhibits garments and accessories that represent the culture of Iza.
2.8. Objectives: It seeks to strengthen textile culture, sustain it with new trends, enhance the work of artisans, promote the education of new generations and research and exchange ancestral knowledge.
Abstract:Silvia Rojas and Jacqueline Marin Kuan presented “Our Ancestors Taken to Art”, a presentation that highlights the textile wealth of Iza, Boyacá, and its connection with the Muisca culture.
Wool, introduced after the conquest, plays a fundamental role
in the elaboration of textiles in this community.
Different artisans and workshops that keep textile traditions alive were presented. The importance of innovation for the future of wool weaving was highlighted, merging ancestral techniques with new trends.
The “Warps and Wefts of the Green Nest” catwalk is presented as a platform to exhibit the creativity and talent of the artisans of Iza.
The presentation concludes with the need to strengthen textile culture, enhance the work of artisans and promote the education of new generations to ensure the continuity of this legacy.
3. Presentation: “Marulanda, Treasure and Tradition of Caldas” - María Mercedes Peña and Gloria Duque
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Key points:
3.1. Marulanda, Caldas: The presentation focuses on the municipality of Marulanda, Caldas, Colombia, and its tradition in the artisanal production of wool.
3.2. Ovinoculture: The importance of ovinoculture as a traditional economic base of the municipality is highlighted.
3.3. Production process: The wool production process is described, from sheep breeding to the elaboration of artisanal products.
3.4. Artisanal route: Mention is made of the “Artisanal Route of Caldas”, which promotes tourism and the commercialization of crafts in the region.
3.5. Products: Different products made with wool are shown, such as ruanas, blankets, scarves and hats.
3.6. Tradition: The importance of preserving the artisanal tradition of wool in Marulanda is highlighted.
3.7. Sustainability: It seeks to promote sustainability in wool
production and local economic development.
Abstract:María Mercedes Peña and Gloria Duque, from Corporación para el Desarrollo de Caldas, presented “Marulanda, Treasure and Tradition of Caldas.”
The presentation focused on the tradition in the artisanal production of wool in the municipality of Marulanda, where ovinoculture is a fundamental economic activity.
The wool production process was described, from sheep breeding to the elaboration of artisanal products.
The “Artisanal Route of Caldas” was mentioned as an initiative to promote tourism and the trading of crafts in the region.
The presentation highlighted the importance of preserving the artisanal tradition of wool in Marulanda and promoting sustainability in production and local economic development.
4. Presentation: “Identity Fabrics in La Esperanza” - Marco
Antonio Pabón Grueso
Key points:
4.1. Context: The project takes place in the village of La Esperanza, municipality of San Sebastián, Cauca, Colombia.
4.2. Yanakuna Culture: We work with the Yanakuna indigenous community, recognized for its rich textile tradition.
4.3. Craft traditions: It seeks to rescue and preserve ancestral weaving techniques.
4.4. Sheep wool: Locally produced sheep wool is used.
4.5. Natural dyes: Natural dyes obtained from the local flora are used to dye the wool.
4.6. Technology transfer and design: Technology is introduced to improve production and innovation in product design is encouraged.
4.7. “Páramo” Collection: A collection of textile products inspired by the páramo is presented, including accessories, decoration and furniture.
Abstract:Marco Antonio Pabón Grueso, SENA instructor in Popayán, presented the project “Identity Fabrics in La Esperanza”.
This project focuses on the rescue and preservation of the textile traditions of the Yanakuna indigenous community in Cauca, Colombia.
Local raw materials, such as sheep’s wool and natural dyes, are used, and tradition is combined with technology to improve production.
The project has developed a collection of textile products called “Páramo”, which includes accessories, decoration and
furniture inspired by the natural environment of the region. “Identity Fabrics in La Esperanza” seeks to strengthen the Yanakuna culture, generate economic opportunities for the community and promote sustainability in the textile industry.
5. Presentation: “SENA LANA” - Alba Sánchez Quintero
Key points:
5.1. Location: Guicán de la Sierra, Boyacá, Colombia.
5.2. Focus: Combining textile tradition with technology and sustainability.
5.3. Keywords: Imagine, Enjoy, Weave, Live.
5.4. Methodology: 1 Sierra, 4 Verbs, 1 Metadology.
5.5. Images: The presentation is mainly based on images that show: The natural beauty of Guicán de la Sierra and its moorland. Sheep flocks. People knitting. Activities related to grazing and life in the mountains.
5.6. in their untreated state.
5.7. Objective: To promote wool as a natural and sustainable fibre, highlighting the connection with nature and tradition.
Abstract: Alba Sánchez Quintero presented “SENA LANA”, a project that seeks to drive the wool industry in Guicán de la Sierra, Boyacá. The presentation focuses on the connection between textile tradition, technology and sustainability. Through striking images, the beauty of the Guicán moor, sheep breeding, the weaving process and life in the mountains are shown. Wool stands out as a natural fiber with great potential for the sustainable development of the region. The presentation invites you to “imagine, enjoy, weave and live” in Guicán de la Sierra, highlighting the importance of wool in the local culture and its potential for the future.
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6. Presentation:”Lanera Transformation Center” - Diana
Constanza Pérez Rojas
Key points:
6.1. Context: The proposal for a Lanera Transformation Center in Boyacá, Colombia, is presented as an initiative to strengthen the wool value chain in the region.
6.2. Stakeholders: The participation of Dewhurst Group, El Dorado, Condor Paipa and Velasco & Gayo in the project is mentioned.
6.3. Objective: To promote weaving in Boyacá and take advantage of its potential as a peasant tradition and heritage expression.
6.4. Weaknesses in the value chain: The lack of articulation between sheep breeding, wool production, spinning, weaving and the market is identified.
6.5. Value proposition: The center seeks to offer solutions to these weaknesses by: Recycling and water harvesting. Direct use of geothermal energy for energy efficiency.Clean energy. Technification to improve fiber quality.
6.6. Action Plan: An action plan is described that includes: Livestock and animal health systems. Peasant family systems. Farms with different types of sheep (Boyacan Creoles, Romney Marsh, Hamp Shire). Transformation center for the reception, classification and processing of wool. Linear weaving and collection creation.
6.7. Vision: Transform and optimize the treatment of Boyacense wool with geothermal energy and technified processes, promoting sustainability and regional development.
6.8. Denomination of origin: It is sought to obtain the denomination of origin for Boyacense wool.
Abstract: Diana Constanza Pérez Rojas presented the “Lanera
Transformation Center” as an initiative to strengthen the wool industry in Boyacá.
The project seeks to jointly work with the wool value chain, from sheep breeding to the commercialization of textile products, using cutting-edge technology and geothermal energy to guarantee the sustainability and quality of the fiber. It is sought to obtain the denomination of origin for Boyacense wool and promote regional development through weaving.
7. Presentation: “Living Tailoring: Wool and Design in Evolution” - Mateo Esteban Jiménez Molina
Key points:
7.1. Women’s tailoring as a living heritage: The importance of women’s tailoring in fashion and the need to preserve its
technical legacy are highlighted.
7.2. Wool as a noble fiber: The value of wool in tailoring is highlighted, especially for its durability, elasticity and thermal capacity.
7.3. Fusion of tradition and innovation: The integration of traditional tailoring techniques with innovations in silhouettes and fits is proposed to maintain the essence of tailoring and drive creativity.
7.4. Innovative textile interventions: The exploration of new textile techniques and interventions is encouraged to develop avant-garde proposals that combine the classic with the contemporary.
7.5. Design conditions: Design conditions are established for students, focusing on innovation in closure systems, collars, flaps, sleeves, cuffs and wheels.
7.6. Balance between tradition and innovation: It is concluded that the preservation of women’s tailoring and
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the use of wool are essential to tradition in fashion, and that innovation ensures that tailoring continues to evolve.
Abstract: Mateo Esteban Jiménez Molina, professor of the Fashion Design program at Cun, presented “Living Tailoring: Wool and Design in Evolution”.
The presentation focused on the importance of women’s tailoring as a living heritage and the use of wool as a noble fiber in the manufacture of garments.
Jiménez Molina proposed the fusion of traditional techniques with innovations in design to keep the essence of tailoring alive and promote creativity.
The need to explore innovative textile interventions was highlighted and design conditions were established for students.
The presentation concluded that the balance between tradition and innovation is key for tailoring to continue evolving without losing its essence.
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DAY 2
DAY 2
8. Presentation: “Spiral Economy” - Doris Helena Rojas
Key points:
8.1. Spiral economy: The concept of “spiral economy” is introduced as a model that goes beyond the circular economy by integrating all resources and focusing on extending the useful life of products.
8.2. Planetary crisis: The current planetary crisis is described, including factors such as climate change, population growth, desertification, the water crisis, unemployment, AI and social fracture.
8.3. Impact of the crisis: The consequences of the crisis on migration, health, food security, housing, the economy and living conditions are mentioned.
8.4. COVID-19: The impact of the pandemic on the planet and society is analyzed, highlighting the vulnerability and interconnection of systems.
8.5. Awareness: Awareness and action are called to address social, economic, environmental, cultural, and spiritual needs.
8.6. Fundamentals of the spiral economy: The foundations of this model are explained in contrast to the productive crisis, excessive consumption, overproduction, planned obsolescence and disconnection with nature.
8.7. Principles: The principles of the spiral economy are described, such as integrating resources, extending useful life, regeneration, and social justice.
8.8. Process: The process of the spiral economy is explained, where waste becomes raw material for new cycles, creating an interconnected system.
8.9. Ecological transition: There is a need for an ecological transition of the economic model, involving education, innovation and sustainable management.
8.10. Social innovation: The spiral of social innovation is presented as a 7-step process to generate positive changes.
8.11. FNB Index: The FNB Index (Gross National Happiness) is mentioned as an alternative measure of progress that considers human well-being and sustainability.
Abstract: Doris Helena Rojas, Director of Entre Soles y Lunas Foundation, presented the concept of “spiral economy” as a regenerative and sustainable economic model that seeks to address the current planetary crisis. This model goes beyond the circular economy by integrating all resources and promoting the extension of the useful life of products.
The importance of awareness, education and social innovation to achieve a transition towards a fairer and more sustainable economic model was highlighted.
Contribution of the sectoral table of Crafts of the Sena to the closing of Human Talent Gaps.
9. Presentation: “Wool: A Luxury Material that Lasts”Bryan Quan Motta
Key Points:
9.1. Introduction: Wool is a natural material that has become a synonym of luxury, quality, durability and exclusiveness. The presentation will explore its impact on the luxury industry, examining its evolution, versatility and relevance in haute couture fashion.
9.2. Quality and Durability: Wool, especially cashmere and merino, is known by its softness, fineness, and resistance. Its natural fiber offers a feeling of incomparable luxury and
keeps its shape and texture through time. Wool garments are durable, resistant to abrasion and to adverse weather conditions.
9.3. Versatility in Design: Wool is ideal for suits, coats, accessories, (scarves, gloves, hats) and innovative clothing with intricate textures and patterns.
9.4. Sustainability: Wool is renewable and biodegradable, obtained from sheep. It has thermoregulatory properties that help keep the body warm or cool, reducing the need to use air conditioning or heating.
9.5. Responsible Consumption: Luxury consumers are increasingly concerned about sustainability, ethics in production and transparency in the supply chain.
9.6. Luxury Brands: Hermès, Chanel, Loro Piana, Gucci, Prada, and Brunello Cucinelli are some of the luxury brands that highlight the use of wool.
9.7. Innovations: Innovations such as wool recycling, hybrid
fibers (wool with organic cotton or linen) and eco-friendly water repellent treatments are being developed.
9.8. Future of Wool: A growth in the high-quality wool market is expected, driven by responsible consumption and appreciation for handicraft. Technological innovation will allow the creation of lighter, more durable and sustainable fabrics.
9.9. Brand Impact: The use of high-quality wool strengthens the reputation of luxury brands, allows them to stand out and sell at premium prices, generating greater revenues to be invested in sustainable practices.
9.10. Consumer Awareness: Brands should use sustainability certifications and marketing campaigns to communicate the benefits of high-quality wool and promote responsible consumption.
Abstract:Bryan Quan Motta presented wool as a luxury
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material that lasts, highlighting its quality, durability, versatility, and sustainability.
The presentation explored the impact of wool on the luxury industry, its relevance in haute couture fashion and the innovations in its processing.
The importance of responsible consumption, the transparency in the supply chain and end consumer awareness about the benefits of high-quality wool were emphasized.
10. Presentation: “Cardolán and its impact on Lanero development in Colombia” - Paola Ruiz Jurado
Key points:
10.1. Origin of the sheep: The origin of the sheep, its domestication in Mesopotamia and its subsequent expansion to Africa, Europe and America are mentioned.
10.2. Sheep breeds: The different breeds of sheep are described, including those with wool cover and those with hair.
10.3. Sheep census in Colombia: Data on the population of sheep in Colombia, with a total of 1,792,245 animals in 2024, are presented, and the departments with the highest concentration of sheep are mentioned.
10.4. Wool textile chain: The wool textile chain is described, from the raw material (wool) to trading, through washing, combing, spinning, weaving, dyeing and clothing.
10.5. Trading of wool: The importance of trading of wool and the different factors that influence it, such as reproduction, nutrition, health, genetics, economy and management of sheep are mentioned.
10.6. Cardolan: Mention is made of Cardolan, a Colombian company dedicated to the production and trading of wool.
10.7. Good livestock practices: The importance of good
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livestock practices and animal welfare in wool production is highlighted.
Abstract:Paola Ruiz Jurado, veterinarian of Cardolan, presented “From sheep to fabric”, a presentation that addressed the wool production process from a comprehensive perspective.
The origin and different breeds of sheep were mentioned, as well as the situation of ovinoculture in Colombia.
The wool textile chain and the factors that influence the trading of wool were described.
The importance of good livestock practices and animal welfare in wool production was highlighted. The presentation provided an overview of the wool production process, from sheep breeding to obtaining the raw material for the textile industry.
11. Presentation: “HILANA” - Association of Spinners of the Cundiboyacense Region
Key points:
11.1. Objective: Group the spinners of the Cundiboyacense region to defend their rights, promote the trade and preserve the art of wool.
11.2. Activities:Conduct fundraising events and purchase spinning wheels for associates. Seek sponsors who provide financial, logistical, or advisory support. Promote and socialize the tradition of sheep wool spinning. Contribute to the social, economic and cultural improvement of spinners.Preserve the intangible heritage in the spinning sector. Manage aids so that spinners have quality tools. Provide technical assistance to wool producers and artisans. Promote and position the artisanal spinning sector at the national and international
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level. Manage credits for the fulfillment of the purposes of the association.
Abstract:The presentation focused on the Association of Spinners of the Cundiboyacense Region (HILANA) and its objective of grouping the spinners to defend their rights and promote the art of wool.
The various activities carried out by the association to preserve the tradition of spinning, contribute to the improvement of spinners and promote the sector at the national and international level were described. HILANA seeks to strengthen the spinning sector through resource management, technical assistance, the promotion of the trade and the preservation of cultural heritage.
12. Presentation: “Giovanni Maria Conti - Heritage in
Motion 2024”
Key points:
12.1. Presentation by the speaker: Giovanni Maria Conti, associate professor at the Politecnico di Milano, expert in fashion and textile design.
12.2. Characteristics of wool: The main characteristics of wool as a natural fiber are reviewed, including its animal origin, its thermal properties, its breathability and its classification according to its fineness (micronage).
12.3. Wool processing: The wool transformation process is described, from shearing to obtaining yarns and fabrics, including phases such as washing, carding and combing.
12.4. Types of wool: It differs between carded wool and combed wool, highlighting the characteristics of the resulting yarns and fabrics.
12.5. Pilling: The phenomenon of “pilling” (formation of balls) in wool is explained, associating it with the purity of the material.
12.6. Recycling: The possibility of recycling 100% pure wool is mentioned.
12.7. Global wool production: The global wool production, its limited quantity and its concentration in countries such as Uruguay, New Zealand and Australia are analyzed.
12.8. Woolmark certification: The importance of Woolmark certification to guarantee wool quality is highlighted.
12.9. Wool applications: The various applications of wool in the textile industry are mentioned, including luxury, fashion and sportswear.
12.10. Innovation: Examples of innovation in the use of wool are presented, such as the creation of wool “skins” and their use in sports garments.
12.11. Sustainability: The importance of sustainability in
wool production is underlined, respecting animal welfare and the environment.
12.12. Made in Italy: Italy’s role in the wool industry is highlighted, especially in the luxury sector.
12.13. Collaboration with companies: Mention is made of the collaboration of the Polytechnic of Milan with Italian companies for the research and development of new wool products.
Abstract: Giovanni Maria Conti gave a complete presentation on wool, from its characteristics and processing to its applications and innovations in the textile industry. The importance of wool as a natural, sustainable and versatile fiber, with great potential in the fashion and luxury sector, was highlighted.
Conti underlined the need for innovation and collaboration
with companies to promote the use of wool and ensure its sustainability.
• Sheep census in Colombia: Data on the population of sheep in Colombia, with a total of 1,792,245 animals in 2024, are presented, and the departments with the highest concentration of sheep are mentioned.
• Wool textile chain: The wool textile chain is described, from the raw material (wool) to trading, through washing, combing, spinning, weaving, dyeing and clothing.
• Trading of wool: The importance of trading of wool and the different factors that influence it, such as reproduction, nutrition, health, genetics, economy and management of sheep are mentioned.
• Cardolan: Mention is made of Cardolan, a Colombian company dedicated to the production and trading of wool.
13. Presentation: “Dyeing the memory: Textile dyeing recipe book for wool” - Angélica María González Flórez
Key points:
13.1. Natural dyes: The presentation focuses on the use of natural dyes for wool as an alternative to polluting chemical dyes.
13.2. Slow Fashion: The concept of “Slow Fashion” is mentioned as a way to change the fashion industry towards more sustainable practices.
13.3. Pollution: The negative impact of chemical dyes on the environment, especially on water, is highlighted.
13.4. Benefits of wool: The benefits of wool as a natural,
• Good livestock practices: The importance of good livestock practices and animal welfare in wool production is highlighted.
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biodegradable and sustainable material are highlighted.
13.5. Plant species: Mention is made of the diversity of plant species in Colombia that can be used to obtain natural dyes.
13.6. Weavers of Sutatausa: The work of Luz María Rodríguez and the weavers of Sutatausa is presented, who preserve textile traditions with wool.
13.7. Objective of the research: To recover and value traditional knowledge of textile dyeing with plants from the Sutatausa and Tausa region.
13.8. Dye plants: The concept of dye plants is explained and examples of some of them are shown.
13.9. Results: A natural dyeing recipe book was developed with 120 chromatic variations using plants from the region.
Abstract:Angelica María González Flórez, professor at Cun, presented her research on the use of natural dyes for wool,
looking for sustainable alternatives to chemical dyes that pollute the environment.
In his presentation, he highlighted the importance of “Slow Fashion” and the negative impact of the textile industry on water. He highlighted the benefits of wool as a biodegradable material and the richness of plant species in Colombia that can be used to obtain natural dyes.
González Flórez presented the work of the weavers of Sutatausa, who keep textile traditions alive with wool, and shared the results of their research, which includes a natural dyeing recipe book with 120 chromatic variations using plants from the region. Its proposal seeks to revalue traditional knowledge and promote more sustainable practices in the textile industry, contributing to the preservation of the environment and local culture.
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14. Presentation: “La Trama y la Urdimbre de los Tejidos en Nobsa” - Emma Salamanca Guauque and Paloma Sandoval Gracia
Key points:
14.1. Context: The study focuses on the community of Nobsa, Boyacá, known as the “Industrial and Artisanal Capital of Boyacá”.
14.2. Handmade wool fabric: The handmade sheep wool fabric, its history, meaning and relationship with the territory are analyzed.
14.3. Focus: Research takes a systemic and regenerative approach, using Participatory Action Research (Pai) to understand the complexity of the system.
14.4. Dimensions of the fabric: The different dimensions
of the fabric are explored, including its value as traditional knowledge, identity element, artistic expression, economic activity and emotional bond.
14.5. Systemic analysis: A systemic mapping is carried out to identify the relationships, tensions and feedback loops between the actors, factors and elements of the system.
14.6. Results: The strengths and vulnerabilities of the system are identified, including the need to value craftsmanship, preserve traditional knowledge, promote innovation and strengthen the community.
14.7. Strategies: Strategies co-designed with the community are proposed for tissue revitalization, with a focus on sustainability, innovation, governance and institutional support.
Abstract: Emma Salamanca Guauque and Paloma Sandoval
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Gracia presented the results of their research on handmade sheep wool weaving in Nobsa, Boyacá.
The study focused on understanding the complexity of the system through a systemic and regenerative approach, using IAP to engage the community in the process. The different dimensions of the fabric were explored, including its cultural, social, economic and emotional value.
The systemic analysis allowed to identify the strengths and vulnerabilities of the system, and co-designed strategies were proposed for its revitalization, with a focus on sustainability and community strengthening.
15. Presentation: “LNAVRGN” - Carolina Álvarez
Key points:
15.1. LNAVRGN: The Colombian brand LNAVRGN is
presented, which focuses on the creation of sustainable luxury products using virgin wool.
15.2. Design: The design of the pieces is described as a fusion of wool and leather, with an emphasis on authenticity and craftsmanship.
15.3. Collections: Some of the brand’s collections are mentioned, such as “Mariposa”, “SILENCIOS”, “Capsule VILLA” and “Coordinate”.
15.4. Impact: The impact of LNAVRGN in economic, social, cultural and environmental terms is highlighted.
15.5. Wool protectors: LNAVRGN calls itself “wool protectors”, promoting and preserving the authenticity of wool and its techniques.
15.6. Storytelling: The brand’s communication strategy is described, which is based on “storytelling” and “story doing” to connect with the public and generate impact.
15.7. Sustainable luxury: LNAVRGN positions itself as a
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sustainable luxury brand, with a focus on quality, exclusivity and social responsibility.
15.8. Objectives: The brand’s objectives are mentioned, such as tripling the GDP of the textile sector in Colombia, promoting research and innovation, and contributing to the Sustainable Development Goals.
15.9. Production: It is highlighted that the products are handmade in Colombia and the importance of wool as a valuable product and a non-perishable harvest is mentioned.
15.10. World market: LNAVRGN’s vision is to explore new markets worldwide with wool products.
15.11. References: Brands such as Harris Tweed and Burel
Factory are mentioned as references in the production of high quality wool.
Abstract: Carolina Álvarez presented LNAVRGN, a Colombian brand that seeks to redefine luxury through virgin wool. The brand is characterized by its exclusive design, the fusion of wool and leather, and the emphasis on craftsmanship. LNAVRGN is committed to sustainability, social responsibility and the preservation of traditional wool techniques. The brand seeks to generate a positive impact on the Colombian textile industry and expand worldwide with high quality wool products.
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CONCLUSIONS
At the end of each of the days of activity, a meeting was held with the participating speakers to evaluate the development of the event and establish actions that involve us all within Living Wool.
1.) The event has established an interesting door of opportunities and knowledge between actors who did not know each other or who did not know that woolly productions could exist in locations that are not within the traditional radar.
2.) It is proposed that in the future collaborations are generated for the development of proposals.
3.) Generate information about what is happening and being done within the wool sector.
4.) Establish a 5-year wool sector action plan
5.) Establish alliances and support to boost the sector.
6.) Evaluate the development of joint projects that cause economic returns.
7.) Search for lines of inter-institutional cooperation.
8.) Establish processes that identify traceability in the wool sector.
9.) There is a need to establish a characterization of Boyacá wool and define the volumes it has in the region.
10.) Organize systematization processes that allow to know the perspective of the rural company.
11. Wool positioning plan against the traditional concept of sheep as meat production
12.) Carry out an evaluation of the wool with which it is being worked.
13.) Fedeanco proposes to be part of the process to support at the technical level, from the existing committees in the entity; work in genetics and enhance the existing
protocols between countries.
14). The creation of the collection center in Paipa, Boyacá that receives all types of wool that guarantees all entrepreneurs qualities and sizes according to their needs and in optimal conditions is proposed.
15.) For the processes, take into account: Life Systems; include the vision of the weavers; generate spaces for cocreation; establish community work methodologies.
16. Establish lines of transgenerational exchange.
17.) Generate knowledge network. Establish a plan for each community so that it is understandable and applicable in such a way that it can be replicated.
18.) Include processes that allow young people to assimilate learning taking into account cultural changes
19.) Propose a specific training process with the Sena and propose the presentation of the project before this entity
to generate territorial impacts.
20.) Tunja Laboratory: Make a proposal to revive the laboratory for applicability within the project. The excuse will be MFW
21) Invite guilds. States and different actors to join the proposal with the aim of enhancing it.
22) It is proposed to create a permanent meeting between the participants to give continuity to the process.
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