October 2019 Fukuoka Now

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Rugby World Cup 2019™


OCTOBER 2019 #250 • FREE fukuoka-now.com

十月 - 福岡導覽 10월 후쿠오카 가이드

MONTHLY MAGAZINE FOR VISITORS GUIDE TO THE BEST OF THE CITY! TM © Rugby World Cup Limited 2015. All rights reserved.



Unlimited travel on Nishitetsu buses in Fukuoka! Shikanoshima

Marine World Marine Messe Fukuoka



From Tenjin or Hakata Sta., take bus No. 300, 301, 302 for Noko Tosenba. Get off at the last stop. Take a ferry from the terminal to Nokonoshima.

Marinoa City Fukuoka

Fukuoka University

Nishitetsu Local Buses See all the sites of the city for less!

Fukuoka Castle Ruins

Kashiigu Shrine

Fukuoka Airport


Asahi Beer Hakata Factory

Yusentei Park

Mo Mo Land, Aburayama Farm

AVAILABLE AT Nishitetsu Tenjin Expressway Bus Terminal, Hakata Bus Terminal, Fukuoka Airport Bus Terminal, Nishitetsu Bus Office, inside Fukuoka City local buses.

Save money and travel conveniently on any local bus to all the sightseeing spots.

Fukuoka City One-day Pass Adult Child

¥900 ¥450


UNLIMITED TRAVEL BY BUS Enjoy unlimited rides on nearly all highway buses, city buses, and ferries in Kyushu as well as in the Shimonoseki area of Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Choose the best plan! Northern Kyushu & Shimonoseki

Travel in 5 prefectures & Shimonoseki Unlimited rides for 3 consecutive days ¥9,000

Southern Kyushu

Travel in 3 prefectures Unlimited rides for 3 consecutive days ¥8,000

Unlimited rides for 3 consecutive days

All Kyushu & Shimonoseki

Travel in 7 prefectures & Shimonoseki

Unlimited rides for 3 consecutive days

Unlimited rides for 3 consecutive days ¥11,000 4 consecutive days ¥14,000

Unlimited rides for 3 consecutive days

SUNQ Pass Inquiries:

Kyushu Highway Bus Reservation Center (8 am~7 pm) Free dial: 0120-489-939 Mobile/ PHS users 092-734-2727

2 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019


Unlimited rides for 4 consecutive days




In Japan, there are two meccas of rugby— Chichibunomiya Rugby Stadium in Tokyo and Hanazono Rugby Stadium in Osaka. High school rugby players all dream of playing at Hanazono, where the National High School Rugby Tournament is held, and Chichibunomiya, which plays host to the All-Japan University Rugby Championship, is where the collegiate champion is crowned every year in a showdown between the best teams in Kanto (Eastern Japan) and Kansai (Western Japan). While Tokyo and Osaka tend to attract Japan’s best rugby players, Fukuoka, located on the southwestern end of Japan, is just as crazy for rugby as anywhere in Japan. The city is home to a large number of rugby clubs for both children and adults and has several women’s clubs as well. Nick Cummins, “The Honey Badger,” is just one of the many top-level players from overseas to have played in Fukuoka (2014).


The junior clubs are particularly active, and at 26, the number of clubs registered with the local rugby association ranks right alongside Tokyo (24) and Osaka (30). In terms of the ratio of rugby players to total population, Fukuoka actually beats out Tokyo and Osaka.


Several players who started in junior clubs in Fukuoka have made it all the way to the Japanese national team. Ayumu Goromaru, whose play in the 2015 Rugby World Cup garnered much attention, once played for the Miyake Young Ruggers. Kenki Fukuoka, a member of both the 2015 national squad and this year's team, played for the Genkai Junior Rugby Club. And last but not least, Yutaka Nagare, another member of this year’s national team, got his start with the Rindo Young Ruggers. It is not hard to imagine that the success of these players has given many of the city’s young rugby players something to aspire to.

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The pride of the city and frequent national champs: Higashi Fukuoka High School


Fukuoka is also home to some of Japan’s strongest high school rugby teams. Higashi Fukuoka High School has advanced to the National High School Rugby Tournament 19 times, taking home the crown six times. With team membership now around 130 members, it is far and away the largest high school rugby club in Japan. Higashi Fukuoka’s rival is the 100-plus-year-old public school Fukuoka High School. In 2010, Fukuoka Prefecture was granted two spots for the 90th National High School Rugby Tournament, and both Higashi Fukuoka and Fukuoka advanced. One of the players for Fukuoka High School's 2010 squad was current national team member Kenki Fukuoka. Other strong rugby schools include Chikushi High School and Chikushigaoka High School.


Meanwhile, the Sanix World Rugby Youth Invitational Tournament has been held every year since 2000 at the Munakata Global Arena. This international tournament, which features eight high school teams from Japan (four of which are from Kyushu) and eight high school teams from overseas, offers Japanese students the opportunity to experience playing in an international setting. A seven-a-side girl’s tournament debuted in 2014. 4 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019


Although most of the best high school rugby players in Fukuoka end up going to universities in Kanto and Kansai, universities in Fukuoka are striving to bring their level of play up to that of their counterparts in Tokyo and Osaka. The Kyushu Collegiate Rugby League pits the likes of Fukuoka Institute of Technology, Fukuoka University and Kyushu Kyoritsu University against each other for the right to advance to the All-Japan University Rugby Championship at Chichibunomiya Rugby Stadium.


Fukuoka’s Munakata Sanix Blues put the tackle on!

Kyuden Voltex players don’t mind a little rain!


Fukuoka is also home to many company rugby teams including the Munakata Sanix Blues of the Japan Rugby Top League, the Coca-Cola Red Sparks and the Kyuden Voltex of the Top Challenge League (the second division of the Top League), and the JR Kyushu Thunders and the Fukuoka Bank Blue Groupers of the regional Top Kyushu A League. At the 2015 World Cup, Munakata Sanix Blues winger Karne Hesketh played for the Japanese team and scored the winning try against South Africa in what is considered one of the greatest upsets in Rugby World Cup history. Unfortunately, due to the concentration of rugby powerhouses in Kanto and Kansai, the highest in the standings that Munakata Sanix Blues has ever achieved was 7th place in 2009.

Coca Cola Red Sparks player breaks away!

JR Kyushu Thunder slams the brakes on the Fukuoka Bank Blue Groupers


Ahead of this year's Rugby World Cup, three cities in Fukuoka Prefecture are hosting training camps for teams from seven countries. Fukuoka will play host to teams from Italy, the United States and Samoa, while Kasuga will welcome teams from Ireland, Canada and France and

Kitakyushu will serve as the training site for Wales. Each of these cities are planning events to welcome the teams to Fukuoka which will likely afford the citizens, and especially the players in the youth leagues, a once-in-a-lifetime chance to experience rugby at the highest level. This is sure to have a profound and lasting impact on Fukuoka’s rugby community.

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SCORE A TRY IN TENJIN! Look for this image at participating shops in Tenjin

No ticket? No problem! Enjoy live rugby!

Watch live rugby matches on the big screen. Enjoy stage events and food & beverage booths too! It all takes place inside the FANZONE directly in front of JR Hakata Station. JR HAKATA STATION SQUARE (the open space in front of the train station) 1-1 Hakataeki-chuogai, Hakata-ku Access via public transportation • Tenjin Subway Sta. → Hakata Sta. (6 min. by subway) F-2 • Fanzone → Hakata Sta. (1 min. on foot)


• Australia v Fiji 13:45 • France v Argentina 16:15 • New Zealand v South Africa 18:45


• Italy v Namibia 14:15 • Ireland v Scotland 16:45 • England v Tonga 19:15 Match in Fukuoka


• Italy v Canada 16:45 • England v USA 19:45


• Argentina v Tonga 13:45 • Japan v Ireland 16:15 • South Africa v Namibia 18:45

October Match in Fukuoka


• France v USA 16:45 • New Zealand v Canada 19:45


• Georgia v Fiji • Ireland v Russia

14:15 19:15


• South Africa v Italy



• Australia v Uruguay 14:15 • England v Argentina 17:00 • Japan v Samoa 19:30


• New Zealand v Italy 13:45 • England v France 17:15 Match in Fukuoka

• Ireland v Samoa 19:45


• Namibia v Canada 12:15 • USA v Tonga 14:45 • Wales v Uruguay 17:15 • Japan v Scotland 19:45


OPEN: 12:00~22:00

*except 9/20 17:00 ~

Open: 12:00~22:00 *except 9/20 17:00 ~

Hakatanomori Stadium Fukuoka



• Opening Ceremony 18:30 • Japan v Russia 19:45


Thu 26 Sep. 16:45~ Pool B

Wed 2 Oct. 16:45~ Pool C

Sat 12 Oct. 19:45~ Pool A










World Ranking

World Ranking

World Ranking







World Ranking

Venue: 2-1-1 Higashi-hirao Koen, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka

World Ranking

World Ranking

*rankings as of Sep. 2, 2019

ARRIVE EARLY! A variety of food booths and other attractions will be inside the venue. Please arrive early and enjoy the atmosphere of Rugby World Cup 2019™!

Tickets are required to view the matches. Please arrive at the entrance gate 90 min. prior to the match time. Due to anticipated congestion near the stadium, entering the building, including baggage screening and body checks, might take more than 60 minutes. Therefore, we suggest you arrive at the venue and join the line to enter 90 minutes before match time.


The following items are prohibited at the venue: all kinds of weapons, food and beverages, cans, bottles, plastic bottles, umbrellas (excluding folding umbrellas,) large pieces of baggage, selfie sticks, drones, emergency flares, communication devices (walkie-talkies, wireless microphone, wireless LAN routers and other devices which emit radio waves and so forth.)


Restaurants in Haruyoshi x 25 Sake Breweries

Passports on sale EVENT PASSPORTS


Get the App! English language available! “Harezake Hashigo” Yokanavi - Fukuoka City Official Travel Guide yokanavi.com/en/rwc2019

Participating shops display these paper lanterns

How to enjoy Harezake Hashigo (hashigo means bar hopping)


Bring your event passport to participating shops. (passports on sale at shops)


Harezake Set (80 ml sake & snack) available for ¥500


Then go to the next shop, for another set!

https://hero-jp.com/harezake/dl Also available at:

Your friendly support for foreign tourists. travelerfriendly.jp




FREE What is XRugby?

Invented by WR (World Rugby), XRugby is an adapted format using a half-pitch and seven players. It’s safer and has less intense body contact.

Participating countries:

Bangladesh, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia (2 teams), Nepal, Thailand, Taiwan, Macau, Japan (Fukuoka 4 teams, Oita, Nagasaki, Kagoshima) Venue: The Sanix Global Arena Stadium (46-1 Yoshidome, Munakata City, Fukuoka) 1st match: 9/28 (Sat.) 10:00~15:40 2nd match: 9/29 (Sun.) 10:30~15:15 *Information as of Aug. 7, 2019, and subject to change


10 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019


Discover more! fukuoka-now.com 梅の花 天神店 福岡市中央区天神1-15-6綾杉ビル1階


1F Ayasugi Bldg., 1-15-6 Tenjin, Chuo-ku 092-737-4080 11:00~16:00 (L.O. 15:00), 17:00~22:00 (L.O. 21:00). Closed: Never Course (12 dishes) ¥3,200 (incl. appetizer, egg custard, sashimi, tofu shumai dumpling, tofu salad & more), course (15 dishes) ¥5,400 (incl. Mineoka tofu, stone-grilled Kuroge Wagyu loin or Kyoto-style misogrilled fish & more)


Specializing in tofu and yuba (tofu skin), Ume no Hana serves up healthy tofu dishes in Japanese kaiseki (multi-course meal) style. You can try the shumai dumplings made from pressed tofu and whitefish wrapped in yuba, but the main attraction here is the hikiage yuba course, where you can skim the thin sheets of yuba from a pot of heated soy milk. The flavor grows richer the longer the soy milk simmers. You can also choose the tofu course where you add nigari (curdling brine) to make tofu right before your eyes. Enjoy the hospitality of kaiseki, tofu style!

梅之花 天神店

價格親民,深受女性喜愛的懷石豆腐料理店「梅 之花」 。整潔的和風店內,在服務員的悉心招待 下可享用多種豆腐料理如用絞豆腐製成的燒賣或 是包裹著豆腐和白魚的炸湯葉(豆皮)等。主菜 有豆乳加熱後表面形成薄膜直接撈起品嚐的引上 湯葉,直到豆乳沒有為止,可以品味湯葉濃度的 變化。喜歡現做的新鮮豆腐愛好者,也可以改它 為主菜。使用當季食材,尊重原味,歡迎您蒞臨 感受懷石料理用心提供的完美料理與服務。

우메노하나 텐진점

유바 및 두부 전문점 우메노하나. 카이세키 스타일 두부 요리를 부담 없이 즐길 수 있다. 메인 요리는 두유를 가열할 때 표면에 생기는 얇은 막을 건져내 먹는 두부껍질이라고도 불리는 유바. 두유가 졸아 없어질 때까지 몇 번이고 즐길 수 있다. 여기에 간수를 더해 가열한 뒤 굳히면 두부가 되는데 유바 대신 테이블에서 바로 만들어주는 따끈따끈한 두부를 메인으로 고를 수도 있다. 제철 재료 본연의 맛을 그대로 살려낸 요리와 깔끔한 인테리어, 직원들의 정성 어린 접객과 함께 몸에 좋은 두부 요리를 마음껏 즐겨보자.

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CAT’S Fukuoka DJ Dance Club 5F TM-20 Bldg., 3-7-13 Tenjin, Chuo-ku 9pm ~ 5am (Sun. open 24 hours)

Ibiza Fukuoka DJ Dance Club 5F The Shops, 1-12-56 Daimyo, Chuo-ku 9pm ~ 5am



Coyote Ugly Saloon Fukuoka American Urban Bar 4F SG. Company Bldg., 2-1-5 Daimyo, Chuo-ku 7pm ~ 3am





Visit any of these four popular spots & get a free drink ticket to use at any of the other three spots! 去4家其中的任何一家店,就能免費拿到在其他三家都能用的飲品券! S




Tickets given upon departure. One ticket per person.



4개 점포 중 한 곳 방문 시 다른 3개 점포에서 사용할 수 있는 드링크 티켓 무료 증정!

Tickets can be used at any of the 4 venues except where issued.

Regular admission fees apply.

Tickets valid for 2 weeks.

Tickets can be used for alcoholic drinks but not tapioca. ta Wa nab





o an

ori e-d

Cat’s Oyafu ori ko-d

jin Ten ay w Sub


a-dor dori


dori Nishi-


Orca Ibiza

Coyote Ugly

B-2 Orca Dining & Bar Hip Mediterranean-style Restaurant & Bar 1F The Shops, 1-12-56 Daimyo, Chuo-ku Tel.: 092-741-2889





bar スタンドバー BEM B-3 福岡市中央区大名1-11-29 1-11-29 Daimyo, Chuo-ku 092-721-6829 18:00~1:00 Closed: Tue. (sometimes irregular) Whisky ¥600~, highball ¥600~, draft beer ¥600, chocolate-covered wheat puffs ¥300, pickles ¥400, smoked cheese ¥450 *no table charge


After winning several awards, Japanese whisky now has a stellar global reputation and the number of craft distilleries is on the rise. At BEM, on a narrow back street in Daimyo, you can enjoy a wide range of these Japanese whiskies, including a selection of rare vintage bottles. Owner Toshihiko Sano and bar manager Kiyohito Morizono traveled all over the country to purchase the craft whiskies and vintage bottles, but their prices are reasonable and the atmosphere is casual. Why not stop by and enjoy some one-of-a-kind whiskies?

站吧 BEM

日本威士忌從二千年來在國際比賽中獲獎無數, 廣受全球好評,據說最近小型釀酒廠生產的品質 與蘇格蘭產相當,吸引了許多外國人前來日本參 觀。在福岡有許多酒吧可品味日本威士忌,但位 於大名巷弄後的站吧 BEM 收集了最豐富的陳年威 士忌。在此可用合理價格品飲到珍貴日本陳年威 士忌,這些都是店主佐野俊彥和店長森園先生或 走訪各地蒐集,或於拍賣會上高價收購的。請期 待和本店威士忌一生一次的相遇吧!

스탠드바 BEM

2 0 0 0 년 이후 국제 적인 콩 쿠르에 서 여러 상을 수상하며 세계적으로도 높이 평가받게 된 일본 산 위스 키. 최근 에는 지방 소 규모 증류소에서 만드는 크래프트 위스키도 많은데 그 품질은 본고장인 스코틀랜드와 비교해봐도 뒤처지지 않을 정도다. 이 때문에 증류소나 바 투어를 위해 일본을 찾는 외국인도 많다고. 일본산 위스키를 취급하는 후쿠오카의 많은 가게 중 특히 올드 보틀 컬렉션으로 유명한 곳이 다이묘의 좁은 뒷골목에 위치한 스탠드바 BEM. 일본산 올드 보틀 위스키를 합리적인 가격에 맛볼 수 있다.

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Discover more! fukuoka-now.com

Shrimp and seasonal veggie tempura pair well with soba ¥1,436

Hanagen Honzenan On the 10th floor of Kitte Hakata, you can enjoy soba and other dishes made with Hanagen Honzenan’s flavorful trademark broth in a relaxing atmosphere with a stylish Japanese decor. Most of the menu items contain the essential broth, which is made daily from natural ingredients, including dried mackerel and bonito, and it goes great with both the original hulled buckwheat flour noodles and the fried foods, like the tempura and the thick, juicy cutlets of Miyazaki pork. The high temperature frying locks in the rich flavors and takes the pairing with the subtle soba broth to the next level. There are also 40 kinds of Kyushu-made shochu, so you can enjoy a drink and some crispy tempura before you finish off your evening with a bowl of noodles in true Fukuoka style.

そば茶屋 華元 本膳庵 福岡市博多区博多駅中央街9-1 KITTE博多10F

10F Kitte Hakata, 9-1 Hakataeki-chuogai, Hakata-ku 092-260-6339 11:00~23:00 (L.O. 22:30). Closed: Never Dipping soba w/ beef ¥1,075, hot soba w/ duck (3 pcs.) ¥1,112, hot soba w/ tempura ¥1,112, pork cutlet rice bowl set ¥1,000, Makurazaki bonito katsu-toji set ¥1,093

*Prices to change from Oct. 1 2019, following tax increase

Hot soba with tempura

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Katsudon: A juicy fried pork cutlet cooked in soy sauce and broth and served on rice ¥955


Discover more! fukuoka-now.com 因幡うどん 渡辺通店 福岡市中央区渡辺通2-3-1


2-3-1 Watanabe-dori, Chuo-ku 092-711-0708 10:00~22:30 (Sat., Sun., & hol. ~19:30) Closed: Jan. 1 & 2 Udon with beef and burdock root tempura ¥670, udon with burdock root tempura ¥480, udon with beef ¥590, udon with raw egg ¥450, udon with maruten (fried fish cake) ¥450, udon with shrimp tempura ¥480


Originally founded in 1951 in Inabacho (which is now part of Tenjin), Inaba 이나바 우동 와타나베도리점 Udon now has six shops throughout 텐진 지역 내에 있던 옛 이나바쵸에서 1951 the city. Of those, the Watanabe-dori 년에 시작한 이나바 우동. 지금은 후쿠오카 shop is a popular destination not only 공 항, 솔 라 리아 스 테이지 등 후 쿠오 카 for its noodles, but also for its 시내 6곳에 점포를 두고 있다. 그중에서도 retro charm. The spry 78-year와타나베도리점은 창업 당시의 모습을 지금도 old Yukiko Moriguchi has 찾아볼 수 있는 곳으로 약 40년 전부터 가게를 been the manager here for 지켜온 78 세의 점장 모리구치 씨를 비롯한 nearly 40 years, and she 직원들이 따뜻한 웃음으로 손님을 맞이한다. welcomes guests along 이나 바 우 동의 면은 식감 이 부드럽다. with her friendly waitstaff. 여기에 엄선된 재료로 정성껏 우려낸 육수를 True to the Hakata style, 곁들이는데 담백한 육수만으로는 부족하기 Inaba Udon is known for its 때문에 튀김이나 고기 같은 기름진 토핑을 올려 soft noodles, and the soup 진한 맛을 더하는 것이 하타카식 우동이다. broth is made from care매콤달 달 하게 양념한 고 기와 고 보텐(우엉 fully selected ingredients 튀김)을 얹은 우동에 닭고기를 넣어 밥을 안친 including baby sardines from 카시와메시의 조합을 추천한다. Nagasaki, high-end kelp from Rausu in Hokkaido, and dried mackerel. The 因幡烏龍麵 渡邊通店 subtlety of the broth is accentuated 「因幡烏龍麵」於 1951 年在因幡町(現為天神的一部分)開業至今,在福岡已有六間分店。其中, with richly flavored tempura, meat or 保留著開業時的舊風貌的渡邊通店相當受歡迎。在本店效力有 40 年之久,現年 78 歲的店長森 other toppings. To order like a local, 口由紀子及店員們的親切招待,總是讓客人溫暖無比。因幡烏龍麵的麵鬆軟、口感柔滑,湯汁 ask for the burdock root tempura and 則是用長崎產的小魚乾、羅臼産昆布、鯖魚節等嚴選的食材悉心熬成,可說是博多烏龍麵的王道。 tangy beef toppings along with a side of 然而,僅有這簡單的湯汁好像還少了些什麼。博多烏龍麵的特色是在麵裡加點天婦羅或肉等帶 油的配料來提升口味。何不效仿本地人的吃法,來碗牛肉牛蒡天婦羅烏龍麵配搭雞肉炊飯享用。 kashiwa meshi (chicken and rice).

WOLFGANG’S STEAKHOUSE FUKUOKA New York style premium quality steakhouse. The best steaks this side of the Pacific. HAPPY HOUR: 15:00~22:30 LUNCH COURSE ¥3,900

wolfgangsstea k house.jp

Grand Hyatt 1F, 1-2-82 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku • Tel.: 092-292-1651 Open: 11:30~23:30 • (L.O.: Food: 22:30 / Drinks: 23:00) • Closed: Never


www.fukuoka-now.com | 15


Find Your



DR. TOYOKAZU TAJIRI M.D., Ph.D Board-Certified Plastic Surgeon and Specialist in Facial Fillers, Botox, and Anti-Aging Medicine

☎ 092-791-1441 bliss-clinic.com/en 1-9-20 Kiyokawa, 3rd Floor Chuo-ku, Fukuoka Hakata Station: 7 min. by taxi


English Speaking Lawyer

No Win No Fee Litigation Contractual claims, debt recovery, property disputes, car accidents, employment disputes and more.

Atsushi Miyake

Attorney-at-Law (bengoshi) Fukuoka Bar Association

16 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

Miyake Law 15F, 1-9-17 Tenjin, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 092-287-4640 info@miyake.law SEE MAP C-2 www.miyake.law/en

Art in Hakata Old Town 博多旧市街まるごとミュージアム2019

Hakata Old Town was born in the Middle Ages when Hakata first flourished as an important port city. Historical temples and shrines dot the area, helping to keep the traditions and cultures of the time alive. An outdoor art exhibition, Art in Hakata Old Town, returns to the area after a successful start in 2018. In collaboration with Hakata Old Town Light-up Walk, works and installations by seven artists attract viewers at several colorfully illuminated venues at nighttime.

Hiroko Kubo “Muddy Feet” (2016)

Han Sungpil “Greentopia - Fukuoka” (2019) *image only

Measuring no less than 8 m wide, a pair of gigantic feet abruptly appears in the quiet grounds of a temple. The blue, airy structure made with windscreen nets appears differently as lighting changes through the day and night. The installation debuted at Setouchi Triennale 2016. Venue: Zendoji Temple

Han began his “Facade” project in 2004 and has since created installations in different cities around the globe. Here in Fukuoka, he questions the border between reality and virtual reality by projecting Fukuoka’s landscape on the walls of buildings. Venue: Tochoji Temple Main Hall

His latest work, “Ineiro (The Color of Rice Paddy),” is composed of 60 boxes of lights surrounding the temple’s stone lanterns. When a windmill located in the center spins, golden lights begin to wave and create an image of rice plants swaying in the autumn breeze. The work celebrates the land of Kyushu, where rice farming first began in Japan. Venue: Jotenji Temple (Fri.)

(Mon., hol.)

Oct. 11 ~ Oct. 14 10:00~21:00

Free entry (18:00~21:00, Hakata Old Town Light-up Walk ticket required) Jotenji Temple, Tochoji Temple, Zendoji Temple, Ryuguji Temple, Myorakuji Temple Masamichi Shimada “Umiiro (The Colors of Sea)” (2017) *A different artwork will be exhibited.



AUTUMN IN HAKATA Hakata Akihaku 2019

Hakata Akihaku is a series of events and activities held in October and November at various locations around the area of Hakata in Fukuoka City. During the festival period, the public can enjoy events at venues of historical and cultural significance including a procession with geisha, live music, illuminations, a night market and more!

아키하쿠 가이드 2019 가을을 맞이한 하카타에서 하 카타 아 키하쿠(가 을 축제)를 즐겨보 자. 10 월부터 11월까지 먹거리, 예술, 음악을 만끽할 수 있다.




秋博指南 2019



秋天的博覽會即將讓博多 地區熱鬧起來了。從十月 到十一月一系列的活動及 嘉年華,吃的喝的玩的通 通都有!

Kawabata Night Bazaar

Take a stroll through a 400 m stretch inside the Kawabata Shotengai arcade after dark. Enjoy the nostalgic atmosphere while browsing open air stalls selling food and more in a bazaarstyle market. Live music too! • 10/4 (Fri.) • 17:00~21:00 (*some shops open in the morning) • Kawabata Shotengai (Shopping Arcade)


Sumiyoshi Shrine Reitaisai

The festival is said to have begun as a way of thanking the Sumiyoshi gods for the legendary Empress Jingu’s safe return from Korea by holding sumo and archery matches. Children wearing Heian-era clothes march in a parade, and intense, traditional Japanese archery while riding on horseback called yabusame will be held. Feel the excitement as elementary students battle it out to be the yokozuna (sumo grand champion) in the young men’s sumo tournament. Takes place at Sumiyoshi Shrine (Oct. 12 & 13). • 10/12 (Sat.): Young sumo wrestling competition 9:00~12:00, Children’s procession 16:00~ • 10/13 (Sun.): Yabusame (horseback archery) 11:30~ • Sumiyoshi Shrine • 3-1-51 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku

Hakata Kenjo Dochu


The Kenjo Dochu celebrates Hakata-ori, used to make obi (traditional belts) and one of Japan’s finest textiles. The procession is led by a Hakata Geigi (geisha). Men holding lanterns, women in formal kimono and traditional music played on the shamisen (lute) and fue (flute) join the procession. • 10/19 (Sat.) • Kawabata Shotengai: 17:20~, Hakataza Theater ~ JR Hakata Ekimae Hiroba: 18:20~ Tochoji Temple ~ Jotenji Temple ~ Hakata Sennen-no-Mon Gate • Free

Details on over 20 events in ENGLISH here! fukuoka-now.com/akihaku 18 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

cafe TOFFEE(トーフィー) 福岡市中央区西中洲6-36 6-36 Nishi-nakasu, Chuo-ku 092-791-9839 C-2 11:00~23:00. Closed: Mon. Soypresso ¥550, soypresso ginger ¥650, soy straight ¥500, soy milk frappe ¥700, americano ¥400, soy milk rum cocktail ¥700, wine/glass ¥750, tofu chocolate ganache (mini) ¥450


Located in the new Hareno Garden in Tenjin Chuo Park, Toffee—which stands for “tofu + coffee” —is an offshoot of the long-standing Mihara Tofuten restaurant. Its tofu drinks include the signature soypresso, a rich combination of soy milk (made from Japanese soybeans grown by the owner’s brother) and an original espresso blend supplied by a local coffee roaster, the soy milk gelato, and the soy frappe made with strawberries from Saga. The creamy chocolate ganache made from tofu, soy milk and chocolate comes in unique flavors like roasted green tea and pistachio.



1959년에 창업한 두부 전문점이 직영 운영하 는 레스토랑 미하라 두부점이 하레노 가든에서 선보이는 두유 음료 전문 카페. 간판 상품인 소이 프레소는 오너의 형이 일본산 대두로 만든 두유에 에스프레소를 더한 리치한 식물성 음료. 커피 외에도 두유로 만든 젤라토에 사가현산 딸기로 만든 수제 소스를 곁들인 프라페 등 계절마다 다른 오리지널 메뉴를 만나볼 수 있다. 두유와 초콜릿으로 만든 오리지널 생초콜릿 (기본, 말차, 호지차, 피스타치오)은 입속에서 마치 아이스크림처럼 사르르 녹아내리는 것이 특징.

誕 生 於 天 神 Hareno Garden 的 TOFFEE, 意指「豆腐 + 咖啡」 ,是 60 年老店「三原豆 腐店」直營的豆乳飲料店。招牌 soypresso 使用國產黃豆製成的豆乳加上本地烘培的 特調義式咖啡。還有一道原創豆飲,使用豆 乳製成的義式冰淇淋加上自製季節水果醬 的冰沙。本店的豆腐生巧克力,口感有如冰 淇淋一樣醇厚, 口味包括烘培茶及開心果等。 來自福岡邁向國際的新潮流飲品, 健康美味, 值得一試。

Sep. 20 (Fri.) ~ Nov. 3 (Sun.)

Wander Kyushu

Go festival hopping around Kyushu and Yamaguchi. Over 50 festivals will be held in the Kyushu and Yamaguchi areas during the festival period.

Sep. 28 (Sat.), Sep. 29 (Sun.)

Matsuri All-Stars Experience Kyushu and Yamaguchi’s best festivals

at one time in Kumamoto City including the “Big Five” festivals inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

matsuri.welcomekyushu.com www.fukuoka-now.com | 19


WELCOME TO KYUSHU: THE SHOCHU KINGDOM By Stephen Lyman If you walk into an izakaya in Kyushu, especially southern Kyushu, and order sake, you’re very likely getting shochu (pronounced ‘show-chew’), which is the traditional local alcohol. “Sake” means “alcohol” in Japanese – what we think of as sake is officially called seishu (清酒) in Japan. N To find shochu look for 焼酎– all of the kanji in this article is O intended to help you identify information on menus and those T fascinating, but inscrutable Japanese domestic market labels. E

Seishu is traditionally made in winter and Kyushu is warm most of the year. Before air conditioning and refrigeration, seishu made in Kyushu just wasn’t usually very good. So the locals turned to distillation to make their booze.

A (very) Brief History Lesson

As you may know, distillation is the process of extracting alcohol from a fermented liquid. The origins of distillation trace back to ancient alchemists in the Middle East who extracted the “spirit” from wine. Centuries passed before these distilled “spirits” were consumed as beverages. Early uses were restricted to cleansers and medical tinctures. This is likely because improperly 20 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

distilled spirits can be lethal. Nevertheless, distilling technology spread and by the 9th century Italian monks were making a safely drinkable spirit. The rise of international trade resulted in this technology spreading like wildfire, so much so that the first written mention of Scotch whisky, French apple brandy, and Japanese shochu all occurred within 70 years of each other between the late 15th and mid-16th centuries.

So why do we all know whisky and brandy, but almost nobody outside of Japan has heard of shochu? Well, when Europeans were exploring the world and trading with anyone who was willing, Japan closed to the outside and would remain so until the mid-1800s when Commodore Matthew Perry sailed his black ships into Tokyo Bay and demanded that the Japanese open to trade. Incidentally, he brought whiskey as a gift for the emperor. Word is none of it made it to the palace, but the samurai responsible had a great time. Unfortunately, when Perry left, the Japanese had no idea how to make the stuff so it wouldn’t be until the 1920s that Japan made its first real whisky. Nevertheless, Japan had been making distilled spirits for at least 400 years before that. It’s believed distillation technology arrived via trade with either Korea or Okinawa (at that time an independent kingdom). While it will never be known for sure which route was the first, let’s go with the Korean route, because one of the key ingredients for making Okinawa’s traditional awamori did not arrive in Japan until long after shochu was being produced.

feature Styles of Shochu

Japanese shochu and Korean soju as made today are wildly different drinks despite the very similar names, both of which mean “burned alcohol” in their native tongues – a reference to the use of fire to heat the still to extract the alcohol as opposed to fermented beverages like beer, wine, or seishu in which the liquid is filtered out and then bottled without distillation. Fermented beverages usually have an alcohol percentage of between 3% (light beer) and 20% (undiluted seishu) while spirits typically range from about 18% (Korean soju) to 60% (barrel proof whiskies). Today Korean soju is an industrial spirit while the fermentation process for authentic shochu is nearly identical to seishu. In fact, the first shochu was likely distilled seishu just as brandy is distilled fruit wine. As such, shochu began life as a distilled rice spirit. In fact, “Kuma Shochu” (球磨焼酎), kome (米, rice) shochu produced in Kumamoto Prefecture, has a geographic indication from the World Trade Organization (just as Champagne is sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France). Today shochu can be made from more than 50 ingredients with the mos t popular s t yle being imo ( 芋 or 甘藷 , sweet potato) shochu from southern Kyushu. In fact, imo shochu ( 芋焼酎 ) from Kagoshima Prefecture, where the sweet potato was first introduced to Japan by a fisherman returning from Okinawa, also has WTO GI status for its “Satsuma Shochu” (さつま焼酎, Satsuma

being the old name of the region). Second most popular is mugi (麦, barley) shochu, which is predominantly made in Fukuoka and Oita Prefectures, though “Iki Shochu” (壱岐焼酎) gained WTO GI status since Iki Island of Nagasaki Prefecture is the birthplace of the style. It seems local samurai were hard on local peasants for making rice shochu (rice was a taxable commodity in pre-modern Japan) so the locals switched to barley. Today just seven of Iki’s distilleries remain. Two other popular styles are kokuto (黒 糖, “black” sugar) shochu from the Amami Islands between Okinawa and Kyushu, and soba (蕎麦 or そば, buckwheat) shochu from Miyazaki Prefecture. Amami was essentially turned into a sugar plantation

by the Satsuma Clan after it was taken from Okinawa in battle and today the local economy is largely sustained through protection of their shochu industry – 28 distilleries on the islands are the only place kokuto shochu can be made in Japan. Otherwise, it’s labeled and taxed as rum. Soba shochu was developed in the 1970s so it’s one of the most recent styles, but is usually quite light and refreshing. These 5 styles (kome, imo, mugi, kokuto, and soba) reflect 99% of the shochu market. The remaining ingredients (including mushrooms, seaweed, and milk – yes, milk) are just 1% of the market. A final style worthy of mention is kasutori (粕取り) shochu, which is made from sake lees (酒粕) – the solids left over after sake production – much like Italian grappa is made from wine lees. These lees contain residual alcohol so they are distilled, which makes them safe for use as fertilizer for rice fields. Thus, the shochu lees fertilize the rice that is used to make the sake that results in the lees that make the shochu that fertilize the rice for next year’s sake. This is a common style in Fukuoka and Saga prefectures in northern Kyushu, which are well known for their sake production. www.fukuoka-now.com | 21


Shochu Production

Shochu is fermented using a mold called koji ( 麹菌 ). This mold, usually grown on steamed rice or barley, converts starches in the grains to sugars so yeast can turn the sugars into alcohol. Almost all Japanese fermentation uses koji: soy sauce, miso, mirin, and seishu. Seishu is almost always made with yellow koji (黄麹), but that’s a very temperamental mold so shochu is usually made with white or black koji. Black koji (黒麹) is an ancient mold from Okinawa (the missing ingredient in that possible trade route) and white koji (白 麹) is a recently discovered mutation. In shochu, yellow koji tends to impart floral aromas and flavors, black koji is earthy and deep, and white koji is sweet and neutral. This koji-propagated rice or barley is mixed with water and yeast to create a starter fermentation. After about a week, this start is mixed with the main ingredient and

more water to make a second fermentation, which runs for about two weeks. By the end of this time the alcohol will have reached between 15% and 18%. After that, it’s off to the still. Shochu is always distilled once in a pot still. Traditional atmospheric pot stills make rich, deeply flavored spirits while modern vacuum pot stills make a light, clean style. Shochu is usually filtered and diluted

but sometimes not filtered (unfiltered is ‘muroka’ むろか) or not diluted (undiluted is ‘genshu’ 原酒). Finally, modern shochu is usually aged in a neutral vessel like an enamel tank, but is traditionally aged in clay pots, which adds a richness, and is sometimes also aged in oak barrels owing to the popularity of whisky in Japan. Shochu aged for at least three years, regardless of aging vessel, is called ‘koshu’ (古酒).

You’ll likely come across chu-hai, (shochu-highballs). These light, fizzy drinks are technically made with shochu, but it’s a kind of shochu made with a patent still,

resulting in a neutral spirits much closer to vodka or Korean soju. It’s nearly flavorless, which is why it works well as a base for sparkling fruit cocktails. They can be quite refreshing, but the good stuff is known as authentic, or honkaku shochu (本格焼 酎) – this is distilled once, made from an approved ingredient, and with nothing added after distillation other than water (to dilute the base spirit down to 25% alcohol) and time. This is where the truly interesting craft spirits live. To find very traditional styles, look for “handmade” (‘tezukuri’, 手 作り) “made in clay pots” (‘kamejikomi’, 甕仕 込み) or “aged in clay pots” (‘kamejukusei’, 甕熟成) on the labels.

How to Enjoy Shochu

Today shochu is more popular in Japan than sake. It’s typically sold at 25% alcohol and due to the lower alcohol it is a very food friendly spirit. It’s usually served either on the rocks, mixed with cold water, mixed with hot water, or mixed with sparkling water. The soda and cold water styles are particularly refreshing in the summer heat while the hot water mix is a perfect winter warmer. Generally, richer styles go well on the rocks or with hot water, while lighter styles are best diluted with water or soda. Fruits can be added as garnishes to siut your fancy. 22 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019


A HANDY KANJI GUIDE TO SHOCHU Japanese alcohol bottles can be beautiful and mysterious. In order to demystify domestic market labels and help you find interesting shochu, here are some common kanji you may find on bottles. This should help you find out if it’s authentic, the base ingredient, koji type (not always revealed), and the alcohol percentage.

Shochu 焼酎

Authentic Shochu (honkaku shochu) 本格焼酎

Satsuma Shochu さつま焼酎

Kuma Shochu 球磨焼酎

Iki Shochu 壱岐焼酎

Sweet Potato (satsuma imo) さつま芋

Sweet Potato (kansho) 甘藷

Barley (mugi) 麦

Rice (kome) 米

Buckwheat (soba) 蕎麦 or そば

Black Sugar (kokuto) 黒糖

Sake Lees (kasutori) 粕取り or 酒粕

Mold (koji) 麹菌

White Koji (shiro koji) 白麹

Black Koji (kuro koji) 黒麹

Yellow Koji (ki koji) 黄麹

Handmade (tezukuri) 手作り

Made in Clay Pots (kame jikomi) 甕仕込み

Aged in Clay Pots (kame jukusei) 甕熟成

Unfiltered (muroka) むろか

Undiluted - Full Proof (genshu) 原酒

Aged at Least 3 Years (koshu) 古酒

Where to Buy International airports throughout Japan have decent shochu selections and some very nice examples can be found if you know what you’re looking for. However, if you want some more in-depth shopping in and around Fukuoka, these are some of the best liquor shops around.


A Satsuma and kokuto shochu specialty shop in Tenjin next door to the Hotel New Otani. 1-11-11 Watanabedori, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 092-720-1991 10:00~20:00 Closed: New Year’s


(Kagoshima Chuo Station) – one of the largest shochu selection in Kyushu. Maybe 1,000 brands at any one time.


(Hakata Station and elsewhere) – Small, but very nice selection.

1F Hakata Deitos, 1-1 Hakataeki-chuogai, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka B1F Amu Plaza Kagoshima, 092-473-7941 8:00~21:00 1-1 Chuo-machi, Closed: Never Kagoshima 099-812-8128 Mon. ~ Thu. 10:00~20:30, Fri. ~ Sun. & hol. 10:00~21:00 Closed: Never



3-7-30 Yakuin, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 092-753-8311 Store 12:00, Bar 16:00~21:00 Closed: Sun., hol. & last Mon.

2-11-18 Haruyoshi, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 092-761-6027 (10:00~19:00) Mon. ~ Sat. 10:00~21:00, Sun. & hol. 11:00~18:00 Closed: Irregular

(Yakuin – and the honten near Minami-Fukuoka Station) – The Yakuin Stand includes a standing bar and a decent selection.

A wide selection on display in an over-hundred-yearold building. Helpful staff too!

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BEER & CHEERS! Watch rugby matches on four 65" screens.

Enjoy a wide variety of dishes matched perfectly to international beers.


B1F Grand Hyatt Fukuoka, 1-2-82 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku Sep. 7 (Sat.) ~ Nov. 10 (Sun.) D-2 17:30~23:30, Sat., Sun., hol.: 14:30~23:30 9/20 ~ 11/2 special hours, details online. Cover charge ¥500 (tax incl.) Beer ¥700~, Food ¥500~ *Prices subject to 10% service charge and tax

For reservations: 092-282-2803

HOTEL HAKATA NAKASU INN Close to Hakata & Tenjin, yet surrounded by greenery Convenient for business, leisure & shopping

With a women's only floor, semi-double and twin rooms, Japanese rooms (1~4 persons), and barrier-free rooms.

Reservation & inquiries

Hotel Hakata Nakasu Inn 4-14 Nakasunakashima-machi, Hakata-ku 7 min. on foot from Tenjin, & 4 min. from Nakasu-Kawabata Subway Sta. Exit 3

24 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019


www.hakata-nakasu.com Tel.: 092-291-0088


Where to Drink

About Stephen

Stephen Lyman randomly stumbled into shochu at an izakaya in New York City in 2007 and his life has never been the same. Today he is based in Fukuoka, holds the title of Shochu Ambassador from the Japanese Government’s Cool Japan Project, manages the shochu-focused website www.kampai.us, and has written a book, The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks [to be released October 1st (International Sake Day), but currently available for preorder on Amazon.com]. You can find him on Twitter or Instagram @shochu_danji. If you tweet at him he may just meet you out for a drink or three at Yokaban NY (full disclosure: he’s a partner in that business).

You may be traveling light and don’t want to carry bottles back, but you’d like to explore this local spirit. In that case, there are some excellent bars and restaurants worth visiting. Most izakaya will have shochu, but most only have a few main brands rather than a wide selection of interesting products (there are more than 5,000 brands from nearly 500 distilleries in Kyushu alone). ◉ Shochu Bar Sunkujira Selection of about 460 bottles, 70% of which are sourced directly from distilleries in Kagoshima. Address: 2-3-33 Hirao, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka Tel.: 092-775-5961 Open: 21:00~24:00 Close: Irregular

◉ Iki no Shima (Ropponmatsu) This izakaya specializes in food and drink from Iki Island in Nagasaki, birthplace of barley shochu. No English. Smoking OK. Address: 2-14-1 Ropponmatsu, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka Tel: 092-791-5641 Open: 17:30~24:00 Closed: Sun.

◉ Amami no Yuraidokoro Gokui (Daimyo) This izakaya specializes in food from the Amami Islands and kokuto shochu. No English. Smoking OK. Address: 1F Etos Daimyo, 1-8-42 Daimyo, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka Tel: 070-7640-0591 Open: 18:00~24:00 Closed: Mon.

◉ Satsuma Shochu Bar (Kagoshima Chuo Station) If you make it to the last stop on the Shinkansen, you’ll find a shochu bar with more than 200 brands before exiting the ticket gate. No English. No Smoking.

◉ Akatan Yobanashi (Daimyo) This is a shochu-focused standing bar specializing in takoyaki (octopus balls). No English. Smoking OK. Address: 1F Koto Bldg., 1-13-12 Daimyo, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka Tel: 092-738-3253 Open: 18:00~1:00 Closed: Irregular ◉ Glocal Bar Vibes (Kumamoto) If you happen to go down to Kumamoto City, this shochu-focused bar is owned by an English speaking bartender from Kagoshima. No Smoking. Address: 3F Arita Bldg., 1-5-6 Shimo-dori, Chuo-ku, Kumamoto Tel: 080-8350-9624 Open: 20:00~23:30 Closed: Sun.

◉ Yoidana Togo (Otemon) This Kagoshima-themed izakaya is run by a nice couple. A large shochu selection, but little English. Smoking OK. Address: B1F OM Bldg., 3-4-22 Otemon, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka Tel: 092-725-3886 Open: 18:00~24:00 Closed: Sun. & hol. ◉ Yokaban NY (Akasaka) A shochu-focused standing bar helmed by an English speaking guy from Kagoshima. No smoking inside (but outside seating with ashtrays). Address: 2-4-5 Akasaka, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka Tel: 090-1362-5300 Open: Mon., Wed., & Thu. 13:00~20:00, Fri. & Sat. 13:00~24:00, Sun. 13:00~19:00 Closed: Tue.

www.fukuoka-now.com | 25

Explore restaurants, cafes and bars inside Hakata Station

There’s a wide range of eateries here, something for any situation or time of day. From casual noodle shops, set meals, to conveyor-belt sushi—ideal for solo or groups of eaters. Take a break in one of the cafes—traditional or modern, there’s both. Or drop by a standing pub for a relaxing drink before heading back to your hotel. Meet locals, business people and other tourists too.


Hakata Ichibangai Tel.: 092-292-6877 Open: 10:00~23:00 (L.O. 22:30) Ikkosha recreates the tradition of yatai food stalls in Hakata, but with even better taste. The tonkotsu ramen here offers a light and mild flavor. No visit to Fukuoka is complete without experiencing a bowl of tonkotsu ramen!



Hakata Ichibangai Tel.: 092-413-5223 Open: 10:30~22:00 (L.O. 21:40)  Ming Tel.: 092-431-2082 Open: 10:00~21:00 (L.O. 20:40)


Hakata Ichibangai Tel.: 092-432-0880 Open: 8:00~22:00 (L.O. 21:30) Premium quality beef stewed slowly with our original blend of 20 spices and topped with tonkatsu (Kagoshima black pork cutlet), dressed with mozzarella cheese and on a bed of white rice, is our recommended dish!

26 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

Enjoy conveyor-belt sushi using freshly delivered ingredients from Fukuoka’s fish markets! Choose from over 70 kinds of dishes including sushi made by skilled chefs and more. Reasonable prices make it ideal for both adults and families.




Hakata Sta. Underground Mall Tel.: 092-433-8500 Open: 7:00~22:00 (Sat., Sun. & hol.: 7:00~21:00) With a brand motto of “Tasty, cheap and fast,” Yoshinoya serves its specialty gyudon beef bowls. Guests can choose from different sized portions. Chicken and pork bowls are also available, or try a traditional Japanese breakfast consisting of grilled fish, miso soup and rice in the morning.





Ming Tel.: 092-431-8035 Open: 7:00~21:30 (L.O. 21:00) Morning menu: 7:00~11:00

Ming Tel.: 092-441-6565 Open: 10:00~23:00 (L.O. 22:30)

The stand-up bar offers quick, affordable and delicious drinks and snacks that are siutable as the first stop on a night out or while waiting for the train. Enjoy sashimi, skewers, oden and so forth - the shop is popular with local businesspeople.

The cafe grinds coffee beans for each order as it is received and then carefully brews it using a heated siphon. Enjoy a cup along with homemade waffle or sandwich in a nostalgic atmosphere.

Hakata Deitos


Chikushi-guchi Exit Shinkansen Gate

Hakata Bus Terminal

Hakata Hankyu Taxi stop Hakata-guchi Exit



Hakata Ichibangai

Subway Entrance

Hakata Sta. Underground Mall

www.fukuoka-now.com | 27

Souvenirs from Across Kyushu Near Fanzone!


rowse through the shops inside Ming to find souvenirs from across Kyushu! The shopping mall is adjoined to the gateway of Kyushu, Hakata Station, and it’s where you can conveniently find traditional and trendy sweets, souvenirs, local specialties & delicacies and even some cooked-on-site foods. Tables and chairs are available for those who wish to eat shopped items or just take a break. There’s two cafes too! Thanks to its strategic location, Fukuoka, and the island of Kyushu acts as a gateway between Japan and other Asian countries. Back in the Edo period when Japan’s closed country policy was in effect, the nation’s only international port was in nearby Nagasaki. With such geographical and historical background, Fukuoka’s unique food culture was born from a fusion of domestic and global traditions.


The supermarket inside Ming (also inside the station building) is open from 9 am to 9 pm. Fresh vegetables, fish, cooked delicacies, and more fill the shelves of the store. Ready-to-eat bento boxes and packed fruits are available in many sizes, ideal for solo travelers.

28 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019


¥120/pc *¥130/pc as of Oct. 2019 The specialty of Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, where Michizane Sugawara is enshrined as the God of Learning, is best enjoyed hot off the grill. An episode of offering mochi to Michizane using a branch of an ume (plum) trees is said to be the origin of this roasted mochi with sweet beans inside. Yummy!


Founded in 1624, Fukusaya continues to make by hand a traditional Portuguese cake that arrived in Nagasaki during the Edo period. Using eggs, sugar, and flour, the brand maintains the traditional taste of castella while meeting the demands of today’s customers - a folded fork with two slices of cake sit neatly inside a cute, well-evolved box. It makes a great souvenir!




3 crackers x 4 boxes ¥540 These sweet crackers are modeled after the comical masks used in the Hakata Niwaka, a traditional comedy the region. The crackers are made from locally grown flour, eggs, and sugar and have been popular with locals since its debut in 1906. The funny faces on the crackers vary by the package as an extra bit of fun to be enjoyed.



Inside this fluffy and savory cheesecake, a special custard cream made from camembert cheese, mascarpone cheese, and fresh Jersey milk produced in the Aso area in Kumamoto awaits! Experience its silky texture and mild, milky flavor. Sampling is offered at the shop.

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¥300~/pc (6 flavors) The first sfogliatella shop in Japan to offer these shellshaped Italian pastry with delicious fillings. Bite into the crispy, freshly-baked pie to find your favorite filling; cheese creme, cinnamon, orange peel and more. Grab a coffee beverage served by Italian-certified barista to pair with your sweet treat! Enjoy a relaxing morning coffee from 9 am.


Odontamblyopus lacepedii, or warasubo, is only found in Ariake Sea not too far from Fukuoka. Its grotesque appearance is said to have been the inspiration for characters in the film Alien. The fish is often enjoyed as a snack by locals while drinking beer and sake. Freshly-caught warasubo also makes good sashimi!

YUMEYUMEDORI COLD CHICKEN WINGS ¥1,080 (250 g) *240 g as of Oct. 2019 *box colors may change

These wings are made to taste best when served cold! Techniques used for making Cold Chicken Wings include: fry for over 20 minutes, dress with a special sweet sauce, and then quick-freeze them. To enjoy their premium taste, leave them at room temperature for 5~10 minutes before eating. They’re a great match to a mug of beer! 30 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019




Chocolate ganache using locally-sourced fresh cream will please your tastebuds. Heat it up in the oven if you eat at home - contrast of the crispy gateaux on the outside and melting chocolate inside creates an irresistible taste. The cake is packaged individually so convenient for a souvenir.

Chikushi-guchi Exit


JR Hakata Station

Ming Hakata Ekinaka Shopping

1-1 Hakataeki-chuogai, Hakata-ku 092-431-1125 F-2 Open: 9:00~21:00

http://www.ming.or.jp/ Hakata Bus Terminal

Hakata-guchi Exit

Station Concourse (1F)

FANZONE JR Hakata City • AMU Plaza Hakata • Hakata Deitos • AMU Est • Hakata Hankyu

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Kobe Beef & Aged Wagyu Yakiniku Restaurant 龍園 西中洲店 福岡市中央区西中洲4-3 ATE西中洲1F

Kobe Beef Set with salad, rice, and soup ¥7,000 tax excl. Enjoy a variety of cuts.


1F ATE Nishinakasu, 4-3 Nishi-nakasu, Chuo-ku 092-739-8929 Lunch 12:00~14:00 (Mon. ~ Fri. & Sun. only), 14:00~2:30 (Mon. ~ Fri.), 17:00~2:30 (Sat.), 17:00~22:00 (Sun.). Close: Never Lunch: Sub-zero aged beef bowl ¥1,200, Hanakago set (6 kinds of Wagyu beef + salad + soup) ¥3,600, Ryuen Special Mentai Burger set ¥1,780. Dinner (table charge ¥500): Black Wagyu course ¥6,000, Kumamoto Aka Ushi course ¥8,000, aged meat course ¥10,000, Kobe Beef course ¥15,000, draft beer ¥600, champagne/glass ¥1,000 *Mention Fukuoka Now for 1 free drink/ customer

*Tax excl., prices to change from Oct. 1 2019, following tax increase

Ryuen Nishinakasu Ryuen is one of the only restaurants in Fukuoka City where you can enjoy authentic, exquisitely marbled Kobe beef. Have a date or a special day to mark? Come dine leisurely on a yakiniku-style

Private rooms with riverside views. Ideal for lunch or dinner.

32 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

course as you gaze over the neon-lit Naka River from the chic interior. You can also try the sub-zero aged Black Wagyu Beef, a Ryuen original. No matter which meat you choose, the fun part

Black Wagyu Beef is best when not overcooked.

is trying all the different sauces to see what you like best: sweet, spicy, lemon, salt and wasabi. So, if you want to treat yourself to the pinnacle of Japanese beef, look no further.


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Shibusashirazu Orchestra is a 30-member art group with musical influences of jazz, rock, Latin and more. Catch their powerful performance on an outdoor stage in a city park. Food stalls from popular Fukuoka restaurants as well as live painting and other stage events. Enjoy music, art and food in one venue! Tenmaku Shibusa大藝術祭典

天幕渋さ 大芸術祭

• 10/6 (Sun.) • 12:00~21:00 • Special stage: adv. (Ticket Pia, Lawson, E-Plus) ¥4,500, door ¥5,000 • Nishi Hiroba, Maizuru Park • 2-2 Jonai, Chuo-ku • 092-715-0153 (Ibizarte)

雲集獨特的音樂人及大型藝術樂團 Shibusashirazu Ochestra 的音樂 活動。特設的帳篷舞台上將帶來爵士、搖滾、拉丁等多種音樂風格, 震撼力十足的現場表演。舞台周圍有現場作畫及福岡人氣飲食店的 攤位,讓您一整天都能沈浸在美食、音樂及藝術中!

텐마쿠 시부사 大예술제

재즈, 락, 라틴 등 다양한 요소가 융합된 음악과 압도적인 퍼포먼스로 사람들을 사로잡는 거대 아트 집단 ‘시부사시라즈 오케스트라’ 등 개성 넘치는 뮤지션들이 대나무로 짜 맞춘 특설 천막 무대에서 라이브를 선보인다. 무대 주변에서 판매되는 맛있는 먹거리도 놓치지 마시길.

10/7 (Mon.) ~ 10/9 (Wed.) NAGASAKI KUNCHI

A three-day festival which dates back to the Edo period, held to give thanks to Nagasaki’s deity at Suwa Shrine for the autumn harvest. Dedication dances are held throughout the city, one of which is the “Niwasaki-mawari”, a designated Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property and a must-see! 長崎宮日節


• 10/7 (Mon.) ~ 10/9 (Wed.) • Times vary • Free • Suwa Shrine and 3 other venues • 18-15 Kaminishiyama-machi, Nagasaki City • 095-822-0111 (Core Communicate in Nagasaki)

為了感謝秋季豐收而奉獻長崎氏神「諏訪神社」的豪華絢爛大祭典。 長崎市內各町將獻納各種舞蹈表演「奉納踊」——不但具有異國風 情還是國家重要無形民俗文化財產。在四個提供觀覽席的場地表演 後,隊伍還將巡演至街道上的店家前祈福,歡迎前往參觀。

나가사키 쿤치

나가사키의 수호신 스와 신사에 바치는 호화찬란한 제례행사. 일본의 중요 무형민속문화재로 지정되어 있는 호노오도리는 나가사키다운 이국적인 정취가 물씬 느껴진다. 무대가 끝난 후 집이나 가게 앞에서 퍼포먼스를 선보이는 니와사키마와리도 볼거리다.

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Beers & wines from around the world


* the entrance is behind the WHOLE NOTE CAFÉ on your left. Open: 9pm~5am, Tue. ~ Sat. & day before hol. Also, open on Tue., Wed., & Thu.

Women Entrance fee* 9pm~12am ¥2,000 (incl. 2 drinks & sweets buffet )


SNS 회원만의 특별 혜택! 등록은 무료입니다.

Women & Men: ¥500 off!


Men ¥2,500 (incl. 3 drinks)

¥1,500 (incl. 2 drinks & 1 sweet )


¥2,000 (incl. 2 drinks + 1 shot ) Free entry

*Fees for Fri., Sat. & day before hol., tax incl., fees subject to change for special events.

092-791-1903 grand-mirage.com GRANDMIRAGE 1-17-16 Imaizumi, Chuo-ku INSTAGRAM Open: Mon., Sun. and hol.: 12pm~2am, Thu. ~ Sat. and day before hol.: 12pm~5am Follow us for news and B-3 (L.O.: 30 min. before closing) special offers!


Play a game and win one!

位於博多的巨型遊戲中心! 別買伴手禮了!來盡情玩樂去贏取一份吧!

• Over 80 UFO Catchers and lots of prizes including the latest Japanese anime characters! • Driving games, air hockey, coin games and other new and popular games! • 超過 80 部內有最新日本動漫玩偶的夾娃娃機!

• 齊集賽車遊戲、桌上曲棍球、推錢機等最新的遊戲機!

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4F Yodobashi Camera (take escalator - easy to find!) Next to Hakata Station (Chikushi exit) 6-12 Hakataeki-chuogai, Hakata-ku Open: 9:30 23:00



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10/11 (Fri.) ~ 10/14 (Mon., hol.) HAKATA OLD TOWN LIGHT-UP WALK 2019

See historic temples, shrines and gardens in the Hakata area in a different light, at night! A total of 18 sites will be artistically illuminated across four days. It’s also an opportunity to enter locations not usually open to the public. Some of the sites become busy, so arrive early to avoid queues. 博多舊市街點燈散步千年煌夜2019

博多旧市街ライトアップウォーク 千年煌夜 2019

• 10/11 (Fri.) ~ 10/14 (Mon., hol.) • 18:00~21:00 (last entry 20:45) • Free entry (some sites) • Shojoji, Ichigyoji, Katsuragi Jizo, Kushida Shrine, Machiya Folk Museum, Hakata Trad. Craft Museum, Jotenji, Hakata Sennen-no-mon • Hakata-ku

博多歷史悠久的寺廟、神社將在這四日的晚間活動中被點亮。平時 不被開放的寺社空間將有 18 個場所在活動期間開放民眾參觀。今年 以「晚間博物館」為概念,可以觀賞到歷史景觀藝術性的變化,感 受與白天不同氣氛的博多。人氣場所勢必大排長龍,建議提早造訪。

하카타 구 시가지 라이트 업 워크 2019

하카타의 유서 깊은 신사와 절이 조명으로 아름답게 밝혀지는 이벤트. 평소에는 볼 수 없는 구역도 특별히 공개되며 유료와 무료를 합쳐 총 18 곳에서 4일간 실시된다. 낮과는 또 다른 환상적인 분위기를 만끽해보자. 인기 있는 곳은 줄을 서야 할 수도 있으니 서두르시길.

10/12 (Sat.) ~ 10/14 (Mon., hol.) FOOD EXPO KYUSHU 2019

Attended by 91,000 people last year, food suppliers from all over Kyushu and Okinawa sell local specialties at over 60 booths. Check out special booths selling local Kyushu sake and freshlycaught fish from nearby Fukuoka seas too. Dine in at the spacious park area or buy for take out. Vegetarian menu at some booths. 九州美食大食堂2019


• 10/12 (Sat.) ~ 10/14 (Mon., hol.) • 10:00~21:00 (10/12: 11:00~21:00, 10/14: 10:00~17:00) • Free entry • Tenjin Chuo Park • 1-1 Tenjin, Chuo-ku • 092-441-1119 (Food Expo Kyushu Executive Committee)

去年吸引約九萬一千人參與的食品盛會,今年邁入第六回。匯集約 60 家九州、沖繩的店舖,在戶外展售各種生鮮、加工食品,方便您 邊走邊品嚐。此外,還有攤位展售九州各地的日本酒及福岡近海捕獲 的魚。活動不但有餐桌方便就地用餐, 還提供素食、 外帶等, 相當方便。

푸드 엑스포 큐슈 2019

큐슈 및 오키나와의 신선식품 및 가공식품 취급하는 약 60개 점포의 먹거리를 만나볼 수 있는 이벤트. 이외에도 사케 스탠드, 근해에서 잡힌 생선 부스 등도 열린다. 테이블에서 먹고 갈 수도 있고 테이크아웃도 가능하다. 채식주의자를 위한 메뉴도 있으니 참고로 하시길.

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events 10/18 (Fri.) ~ 11/4 (Mon., hol.) ASHIYA SAND ART EXHIBITION 2019

Don’t miss this sand-tastic exhibition of 35 sand sculptures by international and Japanese professionals. This year’s theme is “endangered species”. Bring your camera for some great shots and stay until sundown for the sculpture light up. On weekends there will be food stalls as well as fireworks shows. 蘆屋沙像展2019

沙雕活動將在福岡縣北部的海濱小鎮蘆屋町舉行。今年以「瀕臨絕 種的生物」為主題,請來國內外的專業沙雕藝術家製作 35 尊沙雕。 建議在夜晚點燈下欣賞沙雕,會增添幾分夢幻。週六、日有許多小 吃攤,晚上 8 點開始還有聲光表演以及煙火可以觀賞。


• 10/18 (Fri.) ~ 11/4 (Mon., hol.) • 10:00~21:00 (last entry 20:30) • Door: adult ¥500 (HS and over), child ¥200, below ES: free • Aquasian Leisure Pool, Ashiya Umihama Park • 1455-284 Ashiya, Ashiya-machi, Onga • 093-223-3542

아시야 모래조각전 2019

후쿠오카현 북부에 위치한 해변가 마을 아시야에서 열리는 모래 조각 이벤트. 올해는 멸종위기종을 모티프로 프로 모래조각가들이 약 35 개 작품을 선보일 예정이다. 해가 저물면 아름다운 조명으로 장식되며 주말에는 노점이 열리고 20시부터는 불꽃놀이도 개최된다.

10/19 (Sat.) 25th HAKATA TOMYO WATCHING 2019

Visited by 30,000 people each year, this is one of Hakata’s finest events. Over 40,000 lanterns handmade by the local community will light up the area’s shrines, temples, and streets. Enjoy a magical stroll around Hakata at night, and look out for vantage points to see artfully arranged lanterns on the ground. 第25回 博多燈明Watching 2019


• 10/19 (Sat.) • 18:00~21:00 • Free • Areas: Ohama, Gokusho, Kushida Shrine, Naraya, Hakata Riverain, Hakata Ekimae, Hakata Sennen-no-Mon, Tochoji Temple, Reisei Elem. School, and Bayside Place ~ Hakata Port Int’l Term. • 092-281-5512

Enjoy delicious & healthy steamed dishes inside a renovated home. Just steps from the famous Kushida Shrine.

博多中心部的觀光景點、歷史遺跡、佛寺、神社及小巷等將被約四 萬盞由當地居民巧手製作的燈籠照亮,營造出一夜的夢幻氣氛。每 年有超過 3 萬人到訪,可以從建築頂部欣賞地面繪畫,而那被優美 燈光照亮的街道,更是博多秋夜悠閒漫步的好去處。

제25회 하카타 토묘 워칭 2019

하카타 중심부의 명소, 절, 사원 등이 지역주민들이 직접 만든 약 4만 개의 등불로 물드는 단 하룻밤 동안의 환상적인 이벤트. 매년 약 3만 명 이상이 찾는다. 건물 위에서 내려다보는 지상화와 거리를 밝히는 아름다운 등불을 천천히 산책하며 즐길 수 있다.


Steamed Wagyu Beef ¥3,000 (set ¥3,800)


Steamed Seasonal Vegetables ¥1,400

Hakata Seiroya Jujuan 6-29 Reisen-machi, Hakata-ku Open: 11:00~14:00 (L.O.), 17:30~21:00 (L.O.) • Closed: Sun. 36 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

Tel.: 092-273-0399 http://juju-une.com


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10/25 (Fri.), 10/26 (Sat.) 44th NAKASU MATSURI

Nakasu becomes a pedestrian paradise in this colorful festival, with wagons lining the streets to sell food and stages hosting amateur wrestling, taiko drum performances and more. Don’t miss the Kunihiro Onna Mikoshi for a rare view of 500 women carrying a float around the streets. 第44回中洲祭


• 10/25 (Fri.), 10/26 (Sat.) • 18:00~22:00, processions: Fri. 19:25, Sat. 18:50 • Free viewing • Nakasu 1-chome ~ 5-chome, Hakata-ku • 092-272-1440

九州最大的娛樂街,中洲一年一度的華麗祭典,活動期間中洲大道 將會變成行人徒步區,並排著許多飲食店的餐車。受矚目的遊行包 括由超過五百名女性抬著神轎從國廣神社出發的「中洲國廣女神輿」 , 以及穿著炫亮服裝的花魁們的「花魁道中」 。

제44회 나카스 마츠리

큐슈 최대의 환락가에서 열리는 축제. 차량 출입이 통제된 거리에 각종 노점이 출점한다. 가마를 짊어진 여성들의 나카스 일대 행진(25일 19:25, 26일 18:50 예정)과 화려한 의상을 입은 오이란(花魁)의 행진 (15일 19시~, 우천 시 26일)이 볼거리.

10/31 (Thu.) ~ 11/4 (Mon., hol.) 2019 SAGA INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FIESTA

Saga’s balloon festival is the largest in Asia with more than 110 local and international hot air balloons of all colors, shapes and sizes taking to the sky. Check out animal-shaped and other unique balloons at the Balloon Fantasia, and stay until night for the La Montgolfier Nocturne balloon light up. 佐賀國際熱氣球嘉年華2019


• 10/31 (Thu.) ~ 11/4 (Mon., hol.) • 10/31 ~ 11/2: 7:00~17:00, 11/3 & 4: 7:00~19:15 • Free • Kase Riversite • 2598 Morita, Nabeshima-machi, Saga City • 0952-29-9000

每年 10 月下旬至 11 月上旬舉辦的亞洲最大的熱氣球國際大會,匯 集來自國內外超過 110 顆熱氣球。熱氣球一同升空的光景可說是傑 作。除了競賽項目,還可以觀賞各種變形氣球的「氣球幻想曲」以 及晚間的夜間繫留活動,欣賞停泊在夜空中的熱氣球的美景。

2019 사가 국제 열기구 대회

매년 10월 말부터 11월 초에 걸쳐 개최되는 아시아 최대규모 열기구 대회. 전 세계에서 110개 이상의 컬러풀한 열기구가 모여 가을 하늘을 가득 메우는 풍경은 압권이다. 독특한 형태의 변형 열기구 축제와 어둠 속에서 열기구가 아름답게 빛나는 야간 계류도 볼거리.

www.fukuoka-now.com | 37

JAPANESE SNACKS! Hakata Hankyu’s selection of limited-edition, popular modern Japanese snacks. Only available in Kyushu at Hakata Hankyu. Not available at convenience stores! Sold in handy small sizes. They’re affordable and easy to eat on-the-go! Available on the ground floor of Hakata Hankyu Department Store just behind the Rugby Fanzone.

Featuring local flavorings and ingredients!

Sugar Butter Tree Sugar Butter Sandwich Yokozuna

These chocolate sandwiches with a unique, soft and creamy chocolate rightly deserve their title “Yokozuna,” which means grand champion in Japanese! 1 box (10 pieces) ¥1,000 + tax

Bâton d’or Sugar Butter

A rich and tasty pretzel made with buttery dough for a super-rich taste. 1 box (6/pack × 6) ¥463 + tax

Calbee PLUS ESSENCE ESSENCE POTATO Kyushu Soy Sauce Mentaiko Butter

Bite into these crunchy potato chips in limited-edition local flavors including Kyushu soy sauce, mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and thick-cut - all with a buttery finish leaving you wanting more! 1 box (4 packs) ¥500 + tax

38 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

R.L UMAKA Corocoro (cube / long)

This waffle specialty shop is offering cookie-texture waffles in limited-edition local flavors such as Amaou Strawberry and Hakata Mentaiko (seasoned cod roe). 1 cube box (40 g) ¥300 + tax each

HAPPY Turn’s

1 long case (145 g) ¥650 + tax each

Cod roe with butter

A new crispy snack featuring powdered mentaiko (cod roe), Fukuoka’s most famous flavor, and creamy butter. The result is a spicy butter-rich snack that you’ll adore. 1 box (10 pieces) ¥500 + tax



Premium Menbei

Menbei crackers are one of the most popular souvenirs of Fukuoka. Try their premium crackers available in sea urchin, cheese, tomato & basil, and shrimp. 1 box (2/pack × 5) ¥500 + tax

TAX-REFUND COUNTER on M3F Nanban Ourai Nanban Ourai

Baked with a Spanish almond known as the “Queen of Almond”, these limited-edition sweets are available in local flavors of Yame Hoshino Tea, Mojiko Banana, and Hakata Amaou Strawberry.

Some shops provide tax-exemption service. Please make an inquiry for details at each shop. Ask the information center clerk for details. ◎Available to overseas visitors only. ◎Please show your passport.

Hakata Hankyu

1-1 Hakataeki-chuogai, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka Located above JR Hakata Station Sun. - Thu. all floors: 10AM - 8PM Fri. and Sat. Basement to 4F: 10AM - 9PM 5F to 8F: 10AM - 8PM *some exceptions Shops with these logos accept:

1 box (2 packs) ¥463 + tax

www.fukuoka-now.com | 39


Chef & Sommelier on duty!

Dozens of original and authentic listings for the best burgers, pizza, ramen, sushi, yakitori, vegetarian, dance clubs, bars and much more!


A special selection for visiting rugby fans







drinks Japanese beer ¥350 Whiskey with soda ¥350 Wine (red/white) ¥300~



Fukuoka’s Fine Watch Emporium

1F il Cassetto Bldg., 1-2-5 Daimyo, Chuo-ku Open: 11:00~19:30 ▪ Closed: Tue. ☎ 092-725-7766

40 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

3F Tenjin Terra, 5-25-18 Watanabedori, Chuo-ku Tel.: 092-733-4444 Open: 11:30~23:00 (L.O.: 22:45) C-2 Lunch: 11:30~14:30

food Menbei seafood crackers (free refills) ¥200 Hakata Gameni (simmered vegetables & chicken) ¥350

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Kitakyushu Munakata Fukutsu

Fukuoka Itoshima


Iizuka Dazaifu

Yame Yanagawa

With a fascinating history, delicious foods and natural beauty, Fukuoka Prefecture is the gateway to the island of Kyushu! Fukuoka is the only place in Japan to be listed in CNN Travel’s best places to visit in 2019! Learn about eight must-see destinations which are easy to get to on public transportation for even a day trip. Kitakyushu


Kokura Castle was built in 1602 and has since been an important landmark of Kitakyushu City. After losing part of its structure to fire, the castle was rebuilt in 1959. Historical items related to the provincial lords and a diorama from the old days are exhibited inside. Visitors can also enjoy impressive views from the top floor. If you feel like it, try on a ninja or Japanese princess costume and have your photo taken. The castle stands next to the Daimyo Garden and the Kokura Castle Garden. 2-1 Jonai, Kokurakita-ku, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka / 15 min. on foot from JR Kokura Sta.

Kokura Castle www.fukuoka-now.com | 41


advertorial Shiraito Waterfalls



Itoshima offers a multitude of scenic spots; Sakurai Futamigaura known for beautiful sunsets, Keya no Oto with boat tours to observe the giant sea cave, Shiraito Waterfalls which is also popular as a power spot, Raizan Sennyoji with a huge standing Buddha and beautiful autumn leaves, and more. The area produces superb fresh foods from the sea and the mountains, too. Nearest station: JR Chikuzen-Maebaru Sta.

Sakurai Futamigaura Beach



Gliding through the network of canals in small wooden boats is the best way to sightsee Yanagawa. You’ll pass an atmospheric district of white-plastered houses and streets lined with willow trees. For lunch, try the local specialty, steamed eel. Yanagawa makes an excellent destination for even a half-day trip. Nearest station: Nishitetsu Yanagawa Sta. / 50 min. from Nishitetsu Fukuoka (Tenjin) Sta.

Yanagawa Canal Punt Tour 42 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

Steamed Eel



Yame Central Tea Garden 1699 Hon, Yame City, Fukuoka

Yame is a nationally-famous producer of high-quality tea leaves. Tea fields spread out along gently rolling hills, adding to the abundant natural beauty of the area. At the Tea Museum, visitors can try making Japanese green tea and matcha tea, or taste the exquisite and aromatic Shizuku tea, one of the nation's leading gyokuro tea products.

Tea Museum

10816-5 Hoshino-mura, Yame City, Fukuoka 90 min. by bus from JR Hainuzuka Sta. (bus transfer in Yame City)

Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine 4-7-1 Saifu, Dazaifu City, Fukuoka



The name of Japan’s new era, Reiwa, originated from a poem written in Dazaifu. Thanks to well-known places such as Dazaifu Tenmangu, Kyushu National Museum, and the site of the ancient Dazaifu government office, the city has become more frequently visited in past months. Nearest station: Nishitetsu Dazaifu Sta. / 40 min. by Nishitetsu Tabito Bus from Hakata Bus Terminal

Kyushu National Museum

4-7-2 Ishizaka, Dazaifu City, Fukuoka

www.fukuoka-now.com | 43



Munakata & Fukutsu


Munakata Taisha is one of the oldest shrines in Japan, and eight of its assets are registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many worshippers visit and pray here for safe sea and land travel. Each year on October 1, the nationallyrecognized Miare Festival takes place, and approximately 200 fishing boats gather on the shore to welcome the enshrined goddesses. At Miyajidake Shrine, a natural phenomenon creates a stunning sunset scenery twice a year (in February and October), as light shines straight past the approach of the shrine located on a hillside.

Munakata Taisha Shrines

2331 Tashima, Munakata City, Fukuoka 60 min. by Nishitetsu Munakata-go Bus from Tenjin

Miyajidake Shrine

7-1 Miyaji-motomachi, Fukutsu City, Fukuoka 5 min. by bus or taxi from JR Fukuma Sta.



Iizuka once flourished as a center of coal mining. Reminders of the time are kept fresh thanks to a few remaining buildings; Kaho Gekijo, a kabuki-style theater reconstructed in 1931, and the former residence of Denemon Ito are impressive examples of ancient temple carpenter techniques.

Former Residence of Ito Den-emon

300 Koubukuro, Iizuka City, Fukuoka 65 min. by Nishitetsu Denemon Express Bus from Nishitetsu Tenjin Expressway Bus Terminal

Kaho Gekijo Kabuki Theater

5-23 Iizuka, Iizuka City, Fukuoka, 5 min. by bus or taxi from JR Shin-Iizuka Sta.


Sightseeing Information for Fukuoka Prefecture



for 17 languages available 24 hours, 365 days! Travel Support Kyushu/Yamaguchi Call Center

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Miare Festival

Oct. 1, 2019

Sacred Island of Okinoshima and Associated Sites in the Munakata Region UNESCO World Heritage Site

Once in a year at the Miare Festival, three Goddesses gather at Hetsu-miya, the main holy structure of Munakata Taisha. The festival symbolizes traditions of worship at the shrine and its associated heritage sites. An on-water ritual where some hundreds of fishery boats parade across the sea is a spectacle to see! Drone footage of the scene will be live-streamed at Michinoeki Munakata (Eguchi 1172, Munakata City, Fukuoka).

International Kiteboard Association (IKA)

OFFICIAL GENKAI SEA KITEBOARD CHAMPIONSHIP 2019 Kiteboarders will compete along a stretch of coast that looks out over the sea surrounding the Sacred Island of Okinoshima and Associated Sites.


Oct. 5 (Sat.) ~ Oct. 6 (Sun.) Shiraishi-hama Beach, Fukutsu City

This museum shares information about the Sacred Island of Okinoshima and Associated Sites in the Munakata Region. A large screen shows video footage of Okinoshima to enlighten visitors more about the mysterious island where gods are said to dwell. As members of the public are not allowed to access the island, this is the next best way. 588 Fukata, Munakata City 9:00~18:00 Closed: Mon. (*If Mon. falls on a holiday, the site will open and close on Tue.) Free admission

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Check website for more information and access to Munakata and the Fukutsu area

Okitsu-miya (Okinoshima) Nakatsu-miya (Oshima) Hetsu-miya


Iki Munakata Fukuoka Fukuoka Pref.

Saga Pref. www.okinoshima-heritage.jp/en/ Oita Pref.

Fukuoka Yahuoku! Dome Branch

An authentic British Pub inside Yahuoku! Dome

Mon. ~ Fri. 16:00~23:00 Sat. & Sun. 12:00~23:00

~ Happy Hour ~ Open~19:00



COCKTAILS Regular size ¥390→¥190 Jumbo size ¥550→¥270



¥890→¥790/ pint

Hilton Fukuoka Hotel Yahuoku! Dome 7-Eleven

¥720→¥620/ pint


¥940→¥840/ pint

Draft Cider

¥700→¥600/ pint

HUB Fukuoka Yahuoku! Dome Branch Top Gate 4F, Fukuoka Yahuoku! Dome 2-2-2 Jigyohama, Chuo-ku A-1 Tel.: 092-833-8682 Mark Is Momochi Tojinmachi Sta.

Mon. ~ Fri. 16:00~23:00 Sat. & Sun. 12:00~23:00 No smoking (smoking section available) Free Wi-Fi / 222 seats

Half Price Hub Specials • Gin & Tonic • HUB Lemon • HUB Cool Cider • HUB Orange • HUB Grapefruit • HUB Bitter Oolong • Cassis Soda • Cuba Libre • Sakura Highball

VISIT KURUME! advertorial

SO CLOSE TO FUKUOKA - SO MUCH TO SEE AND TASTE! Kyushu, the third-largest island in Japan, is blessed with natural spas to relax the body and soothe the soul, majestic mountains, and friendly people too. With a balance of sophisticated urban culture and relaxed countryside living, this southern island is an ideal place to spend your time leisurely. Refresh yourself next to beautiful nature while enjoying a unique culture with excellent cuisine!


One of Japan’s largest statues of Kannon Bodhisattva soars 62 meters into the sky at Naritasan Kurume Bunin. Built 35 years ago for two billion yen, it features 18 three-karat diamonds between the goddess’s eyebrows. The cradled baby itself measures 13 meters long. With a calm smile, the Kannon watches over Kurume. Visitors can climb up the stairs inside up to her shoulders (entrance fee: ¥500). 1386-22 Kamitsu-machi, Kurume City

Enjoy Sake Events in Kurume

Kurume was once a powerful castle city. With abundant natural resources including Kyushu's largest river, Chikugo River, many sake breweries flourished. The city offers unique opportunities to taste sake while enjoying music and food such as the Jojima Sake Festival & Brewery Hopping event in February.


Fukuoka Airport (Subway 5 min.)

JR Hakata Sta. (Shinkansen 17 min.)

Fukuoka Airport (Subway 10 min.)

Nishitetsu Fukuoka (Tenjin) Sta. Nishitetsu Kurume Sta. (Express Train 30 min.)

48 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

JR Kurume Sta.

Kurume Kasuri

Production of Kurume kasuri textile began in the Chikugo area over 200 years ago as an improvement of traditional ikat. In spring and fall, regional events welcome visitors to the area’s studios and in March, manufacturers and wholesalers hold a large event. Kurume kasuri items such as clothes, scarves, and accessories are also sold in Nishihara Itoten (35-1 Chuo-machi, Kurume City).

All-year-round Fruit Picking

Kurume’s natural environment is ideal for growing seasonal fruits such as strawberries, blueberries, grapes, and Japanese persimmons. Plentiful harvests not only supply the stores, but local families and tourists enjoy picking the fruits themselves. Strawberry picking is from January to May, while kyoho grapes are in the summer. Access here for details: www.kurume-hotomeki.jp/ en/fruit

Kurume Tonkotsu Ramen

Ramen was first enjoyed in Kyushu in 1937 and Kurume Tonkotsu Ramen, with a creamy pork bone broth, is believed to have originated here. No visit is complete without tasting the pride of the city! Watch this video to see what it’s all about. https://youtu. be/4nVAX3TJSG8




Nagasaki Kumamoto

www.kurume-hotomeki.jp/en/ Kurume City Tourist Information Center (JR Kurume Sta.) Kurume Tourist Information Map ☎ 0942-33-4422 www.fukuoka-now.com | 49



Takigi Noh Takigi Noh (a torchlight performance of Noh) will be performed on a temporary outdoor stage surrounded by bonfires. The first Takigi Noh play is said to have been performed in Kohfukuji Temple in Nara during the Heian period (794-1185).

OCT. 5 16:00 doors open 14:30


• Noh: Hanagatami (花筐) • Kyogen: Bo-shibari (棒縛) • Noh: Hachinoki (鉢木) 210 min. program TICKETS


SEAT A: adv.¥8,000, door ¥8,500 SOLD OU UT SEAT B: adv. ¥7,000, door ¥7,500 SOLD O GEN.: adv. ¥4,000, door ¥4,500 *seating available for people with disabilities

Purchasing Tickets:

• By telephone: 080-8582-4859 • Online: https://arigatou.blue

(Japanese language only)

Access: Hakata Sta. (Subway Airport Line) → Chikuzen-Maebaru Sta. (transfer to JR Chikuhi Line) → Karatsu Sta. (1 hr 30 min.) Free shuttle bus Venue: Nagoya Castle Ninomaru Takigi Noh Special Stage

*will be held inside the Karatsu City Chizen Sports Center in case of rain *if the venue is changed, an announcement will be at 9 am on Oct. 5. Inquire by phone or check the Nagoya Castle Takigi Noh Executive Community website. Tickets will not be refunded if the venue is changed. https://arigatou.blue (Japanese language only)

Free shuttle buses available (Karatsu Sta. → Nagoya Castle)



Karatsu Nagoya Castle Takigi Noh Executive Committee

Photo: ©Ichiran


Fukuoka: The Birthplace of Tonkotsu Ramen Text by Toshiyuki Kamimura | Photos by Keiichiro Todaka

In recent years, the popularity of Japanese ramen throughout the world has grown to the point that the dish is as recognizably Japanese as sushi. In a word, ramen is Japanese soul food, and the basic flavors—tonkotsu (pork bone), soy sauce and miso as well as some other unique blends—and preparation differ from region to region. Of these, tonkotsu ramen has gained a great deal of attention from people around the world due in part to increasing interest in Japan and its cuisine under the “Cool Japan” soft power initiative. And the mecca of tonkotsu ramen is Fukuoka, on the island of Kyushu. First, let’s take a look at where tonkotsu ramen started and how it spread.

Photo: ©Chikaranomoto Holdings, Ltd.


Born in 1937. Tonkotsu ramen was transparent at first

The term Kyushu ramen is used to refer collectively to the various regional ramen in Kyushu, including Hakata ramen, Kurume ramen and Kumamoto ramen. While there may be differences in noodle size or ingredients used, the soup base in all cases is the milky tonkotsu. When you talk about Kyushu ramen, you have to talk about the city of Kurume in Fukuoka Prefecture, which is considered the birthplace of tonkotsu ramen. Tonkotsu ramen was first created in 1937 at a noodle stall in Kurume called Nankin Senryo. The first owner of the stall originally was an udon vendor, but taking hints from the shina soba (lit., “Chinese soba”; soy sauce ramen), which was all the rage in Tokyo and Yokohama, and champon noodles from his hometown of Nagasaki, he created tonkotsu ramen. Back then, there were Chinese restaurants that served noodles in soup, but in most cases, the broth was made from chicken bones. The owner of Nankin Senryo

is said to have turned his focus to pork bones because they were cheaper than chicken bones. However, the soup that Nankin Senryo devised, was actually semitransparent and bears little resemblance to the tonkotsu ramen of today. The milky tonkotsu soup that we are all familiar with was first created by chance in 1947, 10 years after Nankin Senryo’s first soup, at a ramen shop called Sankyu. One day, the owner of Sankyu left the heat on under the tonkotsu soup when he left the shop, creating a milky white soup on accident. When he added some seasonings, he found he had actually made something quite delicious.

Tonkotsu spreads throughout Kyushu

After creating its milky tonkotsu soup, Sankyu opened up branches in Saga 52 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

City and Tamana City in Kumamoto. The original owners of several now famous ramen shops in Kumamoto City, including Keika, Komurasaki, Ajisen Ramen and Shoyoken, all did their training at Sankyu’s Tamana shop, and they developed their own unique take on tonkotsu, primarily by adding garlic chips. This is what we now call Kumamoto ramen. Likewise, if you trace the roots of Miyazaki ramen back, you’ll also end up in Kurume. In this way, the tonkotsu ramen that began in Kurume gradually spread throughout the rest of Kyushu, yielding various regional varieties. In the early days, it was the long-haul truckers who spread the word of tonkotsu ramen to the rest of Japan, but more recently, its popularity has skyrocketed both at home and abroad with the expansion of several Fukuoka-based shops to the rest of Japan and throughout the world.

feature Hakata ramen: A child of food stall culture with trademark thin noodles

The most famous tonkotsu ramen of them all is Fukuoka's own Hakata ramen. When compared to other ramen around Japan, Fukuoka’s ramen uses thinner, straighter noodles. They are supple and bouncy, and they go down smooth. Many locals prefer their noodles al dente.

Ramen Rules of Thumb Rule

Order your kaedama before you’re done eating, and leave enough soup to enjoy it. You want to make sure your soup stays warm for the next round of noodles, so order your kaedama refill before you finish your first bowl. Also make sure you leave enough soup in your bowl because you can’t ask for extra soup.


Only add seasonings after you’ve tasted the soup. You are free to season ramen how you like, and many shops will have pickled red ginger, takana (Japanese giant red mustard) and other condiments that you can add freely. But remember that every owner wants you to try the soup “as is” first. Be polite, try the soup, then add your seasonings if you still think you want them.


Choose a counter seat. They're where the action is! The best seats in the house are at the counter where you can feel the heat of the kitchen and watch the chefs deftly prepare your ramen. It is fun to watch each step of the process, like lifting the noodles or cutting the char siu, and then see how the steps—and the utensils used—differs from shop to shop. (On the other hand, ramen chefs must never forget that they’re being watched!)


If you take a photograph, eat first and post later. Many ramen shops don’t mind if you take photos and post to social media, but ramen is meant to be eaten as soon as it’s served. If you spend too much time taking photos, you’re being rude to the owner, so slurp first and post later!


If you thought it was good, drink all the soup. For a ramen shop owner, the happiest thing to see is a customer who drinks all the soup. Forget about the calories. If you liked your ramen, drink your soup down. Once you’re done, there will be nothing left except fine particles of the pork bone.




Another factor unique to Hakata ramen is the kaedama, or noodle refill system. This practice, along with providing hard noodles, is said to have originated in the food stalls of Nagahama not far from the city’s fresh fish market. The stalls would serve up harder noodles, which took less time to cook, and offer noodle refills because the market workers had little time to eat, let alone get full. You also can't talk about Hakata ramen without talking about noodle hardness preference. In Fukuoka, you can indicate your preference using the terms yawa (soft), futsu (regular), kata (hard) and bari-kata (extra hard), but some local ramen fanatics may bust our more obscure terms for even harder noodles, like harigane (wire) and kona otoshi (lit., “just remove the flour;” the noodles are barely passed through hot water). For Hakata ramen, the milky white tonkotsu soup is the mainstream. Each restaurant has its own recipe for creating this soup based on which pig bones to use, what other ingredients to add, how to prepare the bones, cooking time, how much oil to add and so



The old image of Hakata ramen was that only men ate it, but with more shops offering milder versions of tonkotsu without the strong, distinctive odor of pork bones, the number of female fans is on the rise. Ramen, Japanese soul that’s gone universal!

on. Some owners may be particular about their utensils as well, like the shape of the ladle they use to scoop up the noodles or the type of pots they use for soup.

Recent trends in Fukuoka ramen

Today, there are around 1,700 ramen shops throughout Fukuoka Prefecture. One trend in recent years is to serve richer, “porkier” tonkotsu soups. Some shops even make what you could call “tonkotsu cappuccino”, where a layer of fine air bubbles sits on top of a thick, rich soup. On the other hand, some shops are starting to

move away from pork bones altogether, as evidenced by the increase in shops offering paitan ramen, which features a creamy soup made from ingredients such as chicken and/or seafood, and other chicken soup-based ramen. The five shops showcased in the following pages include both classic tonkotsu mainstays and some recent innovators who are turning lots of heads. Why not try some of Fukuoka's great old and new ramen shops today? Just follow our five “Ramen Rules of Thumb.” www.fukuoka-now.com | 53


Fukuoka Now’s Deep Dive into Local Ramen



his up-and-coming ramen shop won the World Ramen Grand Prix 2017 for its Jun Ramen Nanafushi, whose broth is uniquely extracted from seven kinds of dried ingredients—beef, pork, chicken, puffer fish, bonito, mackerel and sardine—through a coffee siphon. “First, we make a broth from flying fish sourced from Hirado in Nagasaki Prefecture, then we blend that with the seven dried ingredients in the siphon. The siphon uses a vacuum to pull the liquid through the dried ingredients and create one bowl’s worth of broth. The process brings out the rich aromas of all of the ingredients,” explains owner Yohei Oshige. At first sip, the soup is light, but the more the umami of the ingredients comes out, the more complex it becomes, and you won’t be able to stop until you’ve drunk every last drop. What’s more, there are only 400 kcal per bowl, which is far less than a standard bowl of tonkotsu ramen. In addition to the Imaizumi shop, Oshige Shokudo’s main shop is in Kego, so stop by either one to experience the “world’s best ramen.”

54 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019

Oshige Shokudo Imaizumi 1F Nishitetsu Imaizumi Bldg., 1-12-23 Imaizumi, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 092-734-1065 11:00~1:00 (L.O.24:30) Closed: Irregular Jun Ramen Nanafushi ¥850, rice with pickled plum ¥150, alcohol ¥400~

•Foreign language menu: Yes •Credit cards: Not accepted. •Reservations: Not possible •No smoking

Photo: Nick Szasz

Now that we’ve peaked your interest it’s time to dig in. If you’ve already tried some of the popular chain shops, now it’s time to dive deeper!




refectural Route 68 which runs through Shime Town, just east of Fukuoka City, is called Dragon Road because it is home to several ramen shops with ryu (dragon) in the name. One of the most popular shops on this competitive strip is Tenryu Ramen, which has been in operation for nearly 50 years. The second-generation owner, Ryunosuke Mori—whose name also contains the character ryu for dragon!—makes ramen using a recipe handed down from his grandparents. Using an old-fashioned hagama pot, the pork bone broth is made using the yobimodoshi method, which means fresh pork bones are added to any soup leftover from the day before, making for a rich, umami-packed soup. The milky texture is due to the fact that the shop uses no lard or back fat, just lots of pork bones and pigs’ feet. Because of this, you can drink the soup down to the last drop.

Tenryu Ramen 1-3-31 Minamizato, Shime-machi, Kasuya, Fukuoka 092-935-1588 11:30~20:00. Closed: Thu. Ramen ¥500, char siu ramen ¥700, miso ramen, ¥650 wonton soup ¥650, fried rice ¥500, mentai-don (rice topped with spicy cod roe) ¥300, draft beer ¥500, highball ¥350

•Foreign language menu: None •Credit cards: Not accepted. •Reservations: Not possible •No smoking



ituated in a regular looking house in the southern Fukuoka suburb of Nakagawa, NakamuLab is a buzz-generating hole-in-the-wall ramen shop where all seats are available by reservation only. After working in ramen shops in Tokyo and Singapore and developing his own ideas about flavor, owner and Fukuoka native Takashi Nakamura decided to open a shop in his home ground. He rented a house to serve as his “lab” for prototyping his ramen, and then turned this lab into his restaurant. “I started this shop to test myself. I felt I could make it as long as I could get people to come here,” says Nakamura. Despite being a reservation-only operation, his prices start at a reasonable ¥740. His specialty is not the local standard tonkotsu ramen, but rather tori-paitan soba, a variety of chicken ramen, and its spicier cousin tantanmen. He uses a blender to make the creamy, emulsified chicken soup for his trademark tori-paitan soba. The air bubbles on the surface give the soup a mellow mouthfeel. NakamuLab makes a great pit-stop for drives to Nakagawa or further south.

NakamuLab 1067-8 Bessho, Nakagawa City, Fukuoka 090-4358-1696 11:00~15:00, 17:00~21:00 (reservations required) Closed: Irregular Tori-paitan soba ¥780, Japanese-style soy sauce soba ¥740, tantanmen ¥850

•Foreign language menu: None •Credit cards: Not accepted. •Reservations: Required •No smoking

www.fukuoka-now.com | 55

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This coupon cannot apply to Apple products, Rolex, SIXPAD, liquor (excluding Japanese sake),outlet items, secondhand goods, Nintendo Switch, as well as its software and official accessories, etc. 10% OFF is still available. Other gaming devices, snacks will be 10% OFF+5% OFF. Japanese Sake (excluding Dassai and Hakkaisan) will be 10%OFF+3%OFF. The liquor must be paid at the dedicated liquor cashier. Cannot be used with other campaigns or coupons. The discounts in Air BicCamera differs in cases. Please note that there are qualifying conditions for tax exemption. The conditions of services may be changed by BicCamera. BicCamera reserve the right to explain the terms of the event. Please ask BicCamera staff members for more details. Printing or presenting the screen are available. アップル純正品、 ロレックス、 SIXPAD製品、Nintendo switchの本体、ソフト・純正アクセサリー、一部お 酒、アウトレット品、中古品など割引対象外商品があります。免税10%OFFは対象です。その他ゲーム機 本体、お菓子は免税10%OFF+5%OFFです。日本酒(獺祭・八海山除く)は免税10%+3%引です。お酒 は酒販レジでのみ会計可能です。他のキャンペーン、値引き、クーポンとの併用はできません。Air BicCameraは、割引率が異なる場合があります。免税には条件があります。キャンペーンは予告なく変更 となる場合があります。詳しくは販売員までお尋ねください。印刷または携帯画面提示可。

There are 51 stores all over Japan Tenjin 1st Store 092-732-1112 〒810-0021 1-25-1, Imaizumi, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka


Tenjin 2nd Store 092-732-1111 〒810-0001 2-4-5, Tenjin, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka





ounded in 1983, Daruma Ramen is a famous shop located on Chikushi-dori in between JR Hakata Station and Kasuga. Second-generation owner Shusaku Furukawa, who took over the shop from his father explains: “To make our soup, we use only skinned pigs’ heads, and just like we always have, we mix three different concentrations of soup, each in a different stage of emulsion, from three different pots. If you do not prepare pigs’ heads properly, they can emit quite an odor, so we make sure they are fully bled and all the impurities are skimmed away.” Because of this, the soup takes 12 hours to make, but the end result is a rich, flavorful soup with a clean aftertaste. The char siu (braised pork) is made with lean cuts of pork and only flavored with salt, while the crunchy kikurage mushrooms are chopped thinly to mix well with the soup and noodles. With a large parking lot, Daruma attracts many people taking drives, not to mention a fair share of ramen fanatics. The shop is so popular that it typically fills up as soon as it opens, so expect to wait a bit for a seat.

Daruma Ramen Chikushi-dori 3-22-27 Naka, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka 092-431-5260 11:00~19:30 (Sun. & hol. ~14:30) Closed: Irregular Ramen ¥600, large ramen ¥750, Daruma miso topping ¥50, wonton ramen ¥800

•Foreign language menu: None •Credit cards: Not accepted. •Reservations: Not possible •No smoking



ocated at the Kego Crossing, within walking distance from Tenjin, Oigen serves up a super-rich bowl of tonkotsu ramen. Although it can be considered a late entry to the ramen game, only opening in 2014, Oigen is now one of the city’s more well-known shops. Owner Takeshi Tsumagari, who opened Oigen after years of training at a famous ramen shop, decided to focus on the combination of “extra rich” soup and seared char siu (braised pork). “Each bowl packs a punch with a soothing pork flavor and a resonating aftertaste. It may be a little bit robust, but it’s just right,” says Tsumagari. You can even request the “extra rich” ramen, with added back fat, for an even stronger punch. Searing char siu is a recent trend among ramen shops, but instead of taking a short cut with a kitchen torch, Oigen uses a charcoal brazier. The char siu is seared right before serving to ensure the flavor and aroma of the seared meat can blend with the soup. Oigen also has a shop near Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, so you can also enjoy this rich, flavorful ramen before or after seeing the sights in Dazaifu.

Ramen Oigen Kego 1F ARK Kego, 1-13-1 Kego, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 092-714-1433 11:30~16:00, 17:00~4:00 (L.O. 3:30) Closed: Never Tonkotsu ramen ¥600, char siu ramen ¥800, ramen with marinated soft-boiled egg ¥700, champon ¥700, gyoza (5 pcs.) ¥220

•Foreign language menu: None •Credit cards: Not accepted. •Reservations: Not possible •No smoking

www.fukuoka-now.com | 57



Hakata Saga

Discover another part of Japan


Fukuoka Airport

Kyushu local train


Kumamoto Airport


Visiting Fukuoka or Oita? Consider extending your trip to Southern Kyushu. Not only for its magnificent nature, but for delicious food, therapeutic hot springs, and to see its many legendary spots too.


Kyushu Shinkansen


Kagoshima Airport


It’s off-the-beaten-track Japan, yet getting around

Miyazaki Miyazaki Airport

by bus and train is still convenient. Refresh your body and soul in Southern Kyushu!


Just 30 minutes from Fukuoka by bullet train, Kumamoto is home to one of Japan’s top three major castles and also Mt. Aso, the world’s largest caldera volcano. Blessed with abundant nature, Kumamoto is well known for great food including seafood, meat, and fruit as well as affordable regional dishes such as ramen.

Mt. Aso, the world’s largest caldera volcano.

Kumamoto Castle stands on a vast premise with a unique style of architecture. Here, you can learn about life back in the Edo era.

Takamori-dengaku is a highly recommended local dish! Potato, tofu, konjac and more are dipped into sweet-flavored miso and grilled over irori (traditional Japanese hearth). Enjoy it with a bowl of dago soup, another must-try local dish!

KUMAMOTO ACCESS Hakata Sta. to Kumamoto Sta. • Shinkansen (bullet train): 32 min. Hakata Bus Terminal to Central Kumamoto • Highway bus: 1 h 50 min.

58 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019



Miyazaki, known as an important center of Japanese mythology, has many locations where the influence of the deities can be seen. Furthermore, Miyazaki’s warm climate makes it possible to enjoy seasonal flowers and foods throughout the year, making it ideal for golfers, surfers, and other outdoor people. Only beef that meets stringent conditions can be labeled Miyazaki Beef, so it’s not surprising to learn how highly valued this beef is around the country.

Surrounding Aoshima and the Nichinan coast is the awesome rocky shoreline known as the Devil’s Washboard. The unique landscape was formed when rocks under the sea rose up from tectonic motion and then eroded by seawater.

MIYAZAKI ACCESS • Highway bus (Hakata Sta. to Miyazaki Sta.): 4 h 15 min. • Airplane (Fukuoka Airport to Miyazaki Airport): 40 min.

Takachiho is known as a “power spot”, a place of profound mythological importance and natural beauty, which radiates spiritual energy.


Kagoshima, located in southernmost Kyushu and stretching 600 km from north to south, boasts worldwide known attractions such the active volcano Sakurajima which is visible from the city center, and the beautiful island of Yakushima, Japan’s first World Natural Heritage site. Not to mention the sand-steamed hot springs and the top brand of Wagyu beef, Kagoshima Kuroushi. The breathtaking panorama of Senganen Garden with Kagoshima Bay and Sakurajima in the background.

Boasting a history of over 300 years, Ibusuki’s sand-steam hot springs are just one of the unique experiences awaiting you. Don’t miss Kagoshima’s best-known desert, Shirokuma (polar bear) made of shaved ice and covered in sweet milk and fruit toppings.

KAGOSHIMA ACCESS Hakata Sta. to Kagoshima-chuo Sta. • Shinkansen (bullet train): 1 h 17 min. • Highway bus: 4 h 31 min.

www.fukuoka-now.com | 59

YANAGAWA NOW! Anytime of the year is a good time to visit Yanagawa, often referred to as “The Venice of Kyushu”. And while punting down its tranquil canals with a singing boatman is a must, consider checking out Unryu no Sato*, a museum dedicated to the sport of sumo. There’s an outdoor sumo ring and inside there’s plenty of displays and memorabilia.

YANAGAWA RIVER PUNTING Local oarsmen use a single pole to gently glide the punts along a four and a half kilometer course of canals. From Dec. 1 until Feb. 28 the boats are fitted with kotatsu (a blanket and table with a heater) to keep passengers warm and cozy, and are referred to as kotatsubune. • Open every day (9:00~16:30) • Adult: ¥1,650, 5 y.o. ~ ES: ¥830 • Four boat launches within a 10 min. walk from Nishitetsu Yanagawa Sta. • 0944-74-0891 (Yanagawa City Tourist Information Center)

UNRYU NO SATO (Sumo Museum and Library)

Off-the-beaten track but what a gem for fans of sumo! Thousands of items and documents related to the sport are on display including life-size models and items worn by and belonging to wrestlers. Yanagawa native and local hero wrestler Kotoshogiku is featured here too! • 10:00~18:00 • Closed: Mon. and the last Thu. of the month • Adults: ¥100, ES & JHS: ¥50 • 151-2 Takanoo, Yamato-machi, Yanagawa City, Fukuoka (15 min drive from central Yanagawa) • 0944-76-1122

Seiro mushi - grilled Japanese eel served steaming hot makes an ideal lunch especially after cruising the canals.

ACCESS Nishitetsu Fukuoka Tenjin Sta.

Nishitetsu Omuta Line 50 min.

*Information and guidance in Japanese only

Nishitetsu Yanagawa Sta.




ISORAGI Dazzlingly Jewel-like Seafood

To stand out amongst the countless number of seafood restaurants in Fukuoka and still remain reasonably priced, you have to be extra special. Isoragi, located inside Kooten on the ninth floor of JR Hakata City, delivers that “extra special” in the form of delicate details, full flavors and with comfort in a simplistic modern Japanese ambiance. Most patrons go to enjoy their kaisendon (rice bowl with seafood toppings) or their ochazuke (the same with fish broth poured on top). Ordered as a set you get appetizers, soup, dessert and tea. The most popular set is the Isoragi Kaisendon which includes a colorful selection of uni, ikura, ebi, made, rotate, anago, salmon, and more on a bed of warm rice. Enjoy fish freshly

Saba sashimi (horse mackerel), a local specialty

Best of both! Small ochazuke and small donburi set ¥1,658~

F-2 磯らぎ 福岡市博多区博多駅中央街1-1JR博多シティ9F 9F JR Hakata City, 1-1 JR Hakataeki-chuogai, Hakata-ku 092-409-6637 11:00~22:30 (L.O. 22:00). Closed: Never (or JR Bldg. closed days) Isoragi Kaisendon ¥1,834, Magurodon ¥1,834, Nishokudon, ¥1,658, Hakata ochazuke ¥1,658, tempura platter ¥1,093, fried mackerel ¥908, beer ¥510, sake ¥473, persimmon soda ¥463, plum wine ¥445

Ochazuke, a quintessential Japanese dish

Kaisendon; too pretty to eat?

caught in the waters off Kyushu including the Magurodon Set made with Pacific bluefin tuna, and the Hakata Kaisendon Set made with Japanese amberjack and horse mackerel. Add a dash of soy sauce or Isoragi's original sesame sauce. Most restaurants slice the fish, whereas Isoragi chops the seafood into small cubes which makes the seafood easier to eat and glimmer like jewels! Mixed sets, with two smaller bowls for donburi and ochazuke, are available. Splendid presentation, friendly service and fabulous flavors not only satisfy locals but will deeply impress visitors to Fukuoka. Ask for a window seat for a sparkling city view!

Chic interior and a fabulous view of Hakata

www.fukuoka-now.com | 61



ITOSHIMA ADVENTURE Forest Adventure Itoshima

Autumn is the best time to enjoy the outdoors, especially in the deep forest, and there’s no better place to play Tarzan and Jane than at Forest Adventure in Itoshima! After a comprehensive training session, you’ll climb high into the trees and overcome challenges that will test your balance. Your reward is increased confidence, great views and of course thrilling zipline rides! Laser Guns rentals too! • フォレストアドベンチャー糸島 • Adventure Course: ¥3,600 / 2~3 hours (9 y.o and over, min. height 140 cm, max. 130 kg.) *courses siutable for children too. • Open daily: 9:00~17:00 (last start 15:00) • Reservation required! • Bring good sports shoes and dress for the outdoors. • www.forest-adventure.jp • Access: 40 min. by car from JR Chikuzen-Maebaru Sta.

¥300 Off! Mention Fukuoka Now when booking the Adventure Course (until 11/30/2019)

EXPLORE ITOSHIMA - ONLINE! Looking for more to do and see in Itoshima? Fukuoka Now recently published the entire contents of “Explore Itoshima” a guide to dozens of spots in Itoshima published as a booklet by Itoshima City with the cooperation of Kyushu University students. There are model courses and seasonal suggestions too!

www.fukuoka-now.com/explore-itoshima 62 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019


Yamaboushi - Auberge Since 20 05, Michiyo Kobayashi has served seasonal kaiseki ryori inside a beautifully reformed old Japanese country home located in a very pastoral area of Nijo, Itoshima. Last month (Aug. 2019) she opened a fullydetached spacious auberge that can comfor tably sleep five. The ground floor has a bath and a large living room with a wood-burning stove.

check more online!


The loft features tatami mats which can be used as a space to enjoy tea or to sleep three on futon. There’s plenty to do in the area. Kobayashi recommends walking down to the coast to see the sunset (35 minutes), or the nearby hot spring. She’s more than happy to help you explore deep Itoshima. Or just stay nearby and discover the beauty of countryside life.

• オーベルジュ山ぼうし • ¥20,000/person (2 person occupancy), ¥18,000/person (3 persons), ¥17,000/person (4 persons) • Includes kaiseki dinner, breakfast, and service. Tax excluded • 1965 Nijo-yoshii, Itoshima • Tel.: 092326-6866. • Web: ukidake.com

Kissa Jun

A long-time veteran staff of popular Itoshima eateries including Sunset Cafe, Natty Dread and mos t recently It aru, Junko Mitsutake a.k.a. “surfer girl” has finally opened up her place! Using furnishings and colors from the ’70s, she’s kept the former snack bar’s nostalgic Showa era vibe. Not to mention classics like Napolitan Spaghetti, Toast Set (egg, salad), Jun Curry (pork), and a Hamburg Set. However, we recommend her daily lunch with your choice of meat or fish served with miso soup and side dishes made from local produce. A steal at just ¥1,280 (tax incl.)! Alternatively, enjoy one of four daily homemade desserts with freshly ground drip coffee.

• 喫茶 純 • Open: 11:00~17:00 • Closed: Tue. • 4635-2 Shima-sakurai, Itoshima • Tel.: 092-332-9855 www.fukuoka-now.com | 63




Momochi Fukuoka Yahuoku! Dome


•Fukuoka Pref. Museum of Art

Hilton Fukuoka Sea Hawk Hotel HUB

Hamanomachi Hospital

Jigyo Central Park









Cocokara Fine

Startup Cafe

Zara• Starbucks Jokyu Shoyu Ippudo


Plaza Hotel

Guru Guru

Plaza Hotel Premier


캐널시티 라인 버스

텐진, 하카타, 캐널시티 하카타 간 이동을 더욱 편리하게. 니시테츠 캐널시티 라인 버스라면 회당 100엔으로 후쿠오카 도심부를 만끽 가능!


Bic Camera Toyoko Inn

Loft Richmond Hotel FT Skala

Bivi• Nishitetsu Inn Tenjin

Sakura Juji Hospital

•Toppan Anyoin Temple

ri do e-

無論是從天神、博多還是博多運河城。 See red route on 乘搭西鐵運河城線巴士,一次只需 map CANAL ¥100就可暢遊福岡市中心! TENJIN


b na


H Court Hotel Arty Inn

Takakura Hotel

Bon Repas


Pizzeria Da Gaetano Sada Hospital


Hop on the Canal City Line Bus for just ¥100/ride to go to Tenjin, Hakata or Canal City Hakata.






•Choenji Temple

ina n-m Fukutaro

a at

•Koshoji Temple

The B


nji Freshness

Imaizumi Park • Seifukuji •Toki Rikyu Hotel Tenjin Place Temple Hosenji Temple

South Garden•





• School


Quantic Apple Store Don Quijote Sony Store

Toyoko Inn

Saiseikai Hospital

Daimaru Elgala Hall


Kego Jinja Shrine



• Police




Australian Consulate


Mos Burger • RI -DO AKI KEY

Kebab Bar Ampoules

Former Prefe Guest Hou

Tenjin Chuo Park

City Hall



Bic Camera

H&M Tiempo

Tenjin Core IMS

Resola Kego Park Tenjin



Frank’s Chop Shop



Coyote Ugly Orca Ibiza




Sunny Supermarket

• Elborracho




Best Denki

Vivre Junkudo


Nishitetsu Tenjin Expressway Solaria Plaza Bus Terminal Nishitetsu Tenjin Fukuoka Sta.






Hakata Excel Hotel

Toffee Fukuhaku-deai

Miyake Law


A SUBW enjin


Valie Hotel Tenjin


Ume no Hana


Mister Donut Vietnam Nakasu Taiyo Consulate

ACROS Fukuoka

Daimyo Shintencho Catholic Shopping Arcade Solaria KFC Stage Mandarake Church Institut Français (Incube) I R O du Japon-Kyushu D Nishitetsu MEIJIVioro Grand Hotel Iwataya Annex Kinko’s Chuo Ward Office

Nissei Hotel Fukuoka

Nishitetsu Inn Fukuoka Ship’s Garden

Chuo Post Office

Mina Tenjin

Hotel Mystays Futata

The Lively



North Tenjin

Kyodai Remittance

Monterey La Soeur




Hotel Ascent

•NTT Docomo SHOW

Aeon Shoppers Fukuoka

Anmitsu Hime •Ankokuji Temple

Hotel Etwas

Daichoji Temple •

•Airef •Udon West


Drum Logos•







Nagahama Park Police • • Drum Be-1•

Hotel Okura Hakata Riverain Mall

Nakashima Dukes Fukuoka Hotel Park Garden Benten-bashiNakasu Palace NakashimaBridge machi •Tsukushi Kaikan

Towers Tenjin Bldg. 5F

Ark Hotel Royal Enshoji Temple


Chinese Consulate


Hotel Eclair

Daikoku-bashi Bridge


SB Hotel

Korean Consulate


The Hakata Harp

Suzaki Park

KBC Cinema

Hakata Nakasu Inn

Nagahama Fish Market

Kyushu Medical Center

To Bayside Place Hakata To Fukuoka Kokusai Center

Fukuoka Toei Hotel

Inaba Udon


RIDE THE CONVENIENT ARTICULATED BUS! 環繞福岡市中心,現正行駛中! 후쿠오카 도심부 순환운행중!

Wi-Fi enabled!


See black and yellow route on map

*¥240 as of Oct. 2019





TA •Sunny Supermarket IH AK Gokusho-machi Shofukuji Temple• UDO RI

텐진 하카타 지역 지도




Myorakuji Temple

Hakataza Theater Fukuoka Asian Art Museum

Na ka su

-ka wa ba ta


Reisen Park







To Bayside Place Hakata

Jotenji Temple

Ryuguji Temple Jujuan


•Dekimachi Park

Toyoko Inn


Canal City Theater

Police Mitsui Garden Royal Park Hotel Hotel

Canal City Hakata East

The Blossom Hakata Premier

Washington Hotel Hotel Il Palazzo Night Market Grand Hyatt

5th Hotel West

5th Hotel East

Seiryu Park



Hotel Nikko Fukuoka Asahi Bldg Comfort Dukes Hotel Hotel Hakata Hakata

Wolfgang’s Bar Fizz NNC Bank

Canal City Hakata

MyStays Inn

•Meiji Park

United Cinemas TVQ• Canal City 13


Senokawabashi Bridge


Book Off


ANA Crowne Plaza Fukuoka •Torinji Temple

Myoenji Temple •Mini-Stop Sumiyoshi-bashi Bridge

•Haruyoshi Park •School

Sumiyoshi Jinja Shrine

Sutton Hotel Hakata City

Hotel Hokke I Club I-DOR SH O Y MI Royal Host SU

Kyodai Remittance Hakata Green Hotel

Hakata Bus Terminal



JR Hakata City

Hakata-guchi JR Hakata

Hakata Clio Court

Hakata Hankyu Kitte / Hakata Marui

Hakata Miyako Hotel

Hotel Century Art


Honzenan Original Pancake Taito F Station

JRJP House Hakata




T-Joy Hakata FANZONE Amu Plaza

Yodobashi Camera CHIKUSHI-DORI

Hotel Leo Palace Hakata


• Rokkenya Park

Hotel Toyoko Inn

•Hakata Ward Office



Croom Hakata

SB Hotel




President Hotel •NTT Data

The Ship

Haruyoshi-bashi Bridge Shidax •

Bus Stop (Canal City Line Bus)


Sky Heart Hakata



Money Exchange


Hakata Sennen-no-Mon


Hakata Machiya Folk Museum Hakata Traditional Craft Center

ectual use



Kushida Jinja Shrine


Info Desk Car Rental

Engakuji Temple

Tochoji Temple

Fukuoka City International Center

Post Office Gas Station

Hearts Bus Station Hakata

The b Hakata

Hotel Sunline Fukuoka Hakata Ekimae Ninjin Park

With The Style


Sumiyoshi Park

FUKUOKA CITY ONE-DAY PASS ●Adult ¥900 Child ¥450

Hyakushunkan Yanagi-bashi Bridge

Hotel New Otani

One day unlimited rides on Fukuoka City local buses! On sale inside local buses and bus terminals (Tenjin and Hakata).

Sun Selco Sunny Supermarket

福岡市一日自由乘車券 ●成人¥900、兒童¥450

Bliss Clinic Benikea Calton Hotel •


To Minoshima Market Street 18m long, 130-person capacity and connecting Tenjin, Hakata Sta. and the Waterfront with departures every 20 minutes. 全長18m,130人可乘搭的雙節巴士 以每20~30分鐘間隔環繞天神、博多、濱海地區

길이 18m, 130인승 굴절버스 텐진, 하카타, 워터프론트지구를 20~30분 간격으로 순환

一天內無限次乘搭福岡市內的路線巴士! 福岡市內的路線巴士裡、天神、博多巴士總站都購買得到

후쿠오카시 1일 자유승차권 ●어른 900엔 어린이 450엔

후쿠오카 시내를 오가는 노선버스를 하루 종일 자유롭게 이용 가능! 후쿠오카 시내 일반 노선버스 차내, 텐진, 하카타 버스 터미널에서도 판매 중

NISHITETSU CUSTOMER CENTER Open: 6:00~24:00 · Closed: Never




October 2019 #250


I suggest rugby fans…

www.fukuoka-now.com Providing Kyushu’s international community and overseas visitors with news, information, opinions, and laughs since 1998. Information by foreigners for foreigners. FUKUOKA NOW 是針對在九州活躍的外國人 及外國觀光客提供新聞訊息、參考意見和趣 聞 ;從 1998 年起由外籍人士人對外籍人士 以多種語言發行的一本雜誌。

FUKUOKA NOW LTD. 5F Towers Tenjin Bldg., 3-7-3 Tenjin, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka 有限会社フクオカ・ナウ 福岡市中央区天神3-7-3 タワーズ天神5F

Publisher サーズ・ニック Nick Szasz Walk around Fukuoka. It's flat and the people are friendly!

フクオカ・ナウは、福岡・九州で活動するイン ターナショナルな人々や、海外から訪れる人に 向けて、ニュースや楽しく過ごすための情報を 多言語で発信している、外国人による外国人の ための 1998 年創業のメディアカンパニーです。

General Manager サーズ 恵美子 Emiko Szasz Enjoy restaurant & bar hopping - that’s the local style!

후쿠오카 나우는 후쿠오카˙큐슈에서 활동하는 여러 나라 사람들과 외국인 관광객을 위해 1998년부터 뉴스, 시사 및 각종 유용한 정보를 다국어로 제공하는 외국인에 의한 외국인을 위한 미디어입니다.

Editorial ラディグノン・アイリーン Irene Ladignon Try Hakata torikawa (chicken skin) with chuhai!

CONTACT US 広告掲載に関するお問い合わせ Tel.: 092-762-2505 Fax: 092-762-2509 Email: sales@fukuoka-now.com www.fukuoka-now.com

Sales 松崎 安奈 Anna Matsuzaki Watch a play at Hakataza Theater. It’s fun!

© 2019 Fukuoka Now Ltd. Permission required prior to any form of reuse.

Fukuoka Rugby Fan Guide

Pick up a free copy

Pick up a free copy of the Fukuoka Rugby Fan Guide at tourist information counters and hotels. In addition to the biggest & best maps of the city we’ve filled it with 94 carefully selected introductions to the best sushi, burgers, pizza, yakitori, dance clubs, bars and more!

On the cover

Canada against Italy in 2015. The two teams play again in Fukuoka on Sep. 26!

fukuoka-now.com/rwc/ TM © Rugby World Cup Limited 2015. All rights reserved.

Discover much more about Fukuoka & Kyushu online.


Editorial Design: Kohji Shiiki (tokyographics.com) Contributors: Joel Dechant, Bohyun Jeong, Chin Chun Tang, Mai Inoue, Saori Fujita

DAIMYO’S FAVORITE STREET FOOD! ! yummy sauces to t r y r u o F B-3

kebabs are good fo r y o u These


1-15-33 Daimyo, Chuo-ku (opposite NIKE shop)

Tel: 092-721-6660 66 | Fukuoka Now | #250 | October 2019



The First Urban Lifestyle Hotel in Fukuoka


Street Art-Inspired and Designed A unique blend of urban street-art aesthetics and high-tech smart-hotel experience. Featuring 224 rooms and three banquet halls ready to host any event. ���室の客室にオールディダイニング・圧巻の吹抜けを中央 に構えるスタイリッシュなバー、会議やセミナーから宴会・ ウエディングまで幅広い用途に対応した�つの宴会場を擁する 大型ライフスタイルホテルが福岡に誕生。



092-262-2009 5-2-18 Nakasu, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka

One minute on foot from Nakasu-Kawabata Subway Sta. 福岡市博多区中洲�-�-�� 地下鉄空港線「中洲川端」駅より徒歩�分



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