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Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2011

Rodes THE BLUE BLAZER AN OLD SCHOOL STAPLE LEARNS NEW TRICKS

FASHION HEATS UP! LIVED-IN LUXURY IT’S ALL ABOUT SOFT…


at your service

RODES FOR HIM & FOR HER PRING 2011. WOW! The start of the most exciting

season in Louisville. At Rodes, we have the pleasure of spending time with many of you and are often asked about what we do and how we do it. Here is a sampling of some of the services we offer that you may not be familiar with. TAILORING & ALTERATIONS Did you know we have 10 people in our tailor shop at Rodes? All of us want to look our best, so we are here to alter any new purchases and tweak or redo your existing wardrobe any time. We all change sizes over time and we want to assist you in getting the most out of your clothing investment. CLOSET CLEANING In order to help you integrate your new seasonal purchases with your existing wardrobe, your clothing consultant will visit your home and provide suggestions on creatively mixing and matching your wardrobe. We can advise you on fashion do’s and don’ts and help you build that perfect outfit. RODES TO YOU We will bring our store to your

home! (Sort of…) Your Rodes consultant can pick out a wide variety of items for you and bring them to your home or office for the ultimate in shopping privacy and convenience! We will bring an alterations expert as well so you can enjoy the pampering you deserve.

your purchases. Let us wrap your gifts and deliver them to your home or ship them anywhere in the world.

MADE-TO-MEASURE Tough to fit? Not an “off the rack” person? Select the fit and fabrics and any other detail from our array of styles. We will make you suits, sportcoats, trousers and shirts. Once we have your measurements on file we are at the ready to make you new garments in the future. Easy!

Howard and Susan Vogt

GIFT WRAP & HOME DELIVERY Our famous red box with the white ribbon is available for any of

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We are here and always look forward to being at your service! See you around town…


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Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) 1-800-866-3112 www.rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

FEATURES 2 7 48 51 76 82

Welcome Letter Happenings Accessories: Ode to the Pocket Square Style: The Finer Things Sports Style: Chip Ganassi Indulgences: Shutter Release

FASHION 16 17 36 38 46 52 56 58 66

Attention Ladies Rodes Fashion Ladies Accessories at Rodes Ladies Brands at Rodes Designer Profile: Isaia Designer Profile: Canali Trends: What Not to Wear Brighten Up! Celebrating the Iconic Blue Blazer

DEPARTMENTS 42 54 72 78 80 84

Ask Forum Humor: The Shopping Gene World Scene Food: Padma Lakshmi Drink: A Wine by Any Other Name End Page: Design Yourself

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.


RODES HAPPENINGS RODES HOSTS EVENTS

Rodes For Him & For Her hosts and participates in many events throughout the year. Here is a look at some of our trunk shows, fundraisers and corporate functions from last season.

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RODES HAPPENINGS RODES EVENTS CONTINUED

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RODES HAPPENINGS ITALIAN WEEK

Rodes For Him & For Her and The Italian Trade Commission celebrated Italian Week last fall. About 150 of you attended one of the most exciting and fun events ever hosted at Rodes. We had an outstanding evening reception with amazing food from Porcinis and entertainment by Kentucky Opera soprano, Emily Albrink.

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RODES HAPPENINGS ITALIAN WEEK CONTINUED

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RODES HAPPENINGS KENTUCKIANA COUTURE

Rodes has formed a unique relationship with The CW and their Kentuckiana Couture morning show. This segment has gained a significant increase in market share due to their fashion-conscious viewers. Thank you to Chris Caswell and the WBKI crew!

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www.collectioniris.com


Attention Ladies EMBRACE YOUR FEMININITY BY SUSAN VOGT

People often ask me what it is I do, and I answer, “I shop for a living”. My job is to create a story with clothing, which allows me to dress everyone from the young to the young at heart. Part of our success, along with my wonderful staff, is that I have to pay attention. One thing I’ve learned from you, our customer, is that you are an independent thinker. You want luxurious clothes, but they need to be wearable. And it’s my job to interpret the trends that will allow you to look brilliant, feel a little sexy, and add style to your closet without looking contrived. You like to invest in fabrics and styles that are classic but with a twist, something unique, different, irresistible! I’ve been listening, and we’ve found you a fabulous fashion palette for spring 2011. We are bringing two new designers to our store for you: Akris Punto and Cheap and Chic by Moschino. The Akris Punto collection possesses all the style you need for a modern wardrobe in fresh fabrics and smart, feminine silhouettes. It offers a way to dress with confidence that will take you from day to evening and work to play. Cheap and Chic is known for its quirkiness and playfulness. The fashion rule for Cheap and Chic is “Dressing should be fun!” So look for their collection to be sophisticated and luxurious, with a hint of ironic liveliness. The key phrase for spring 2011 is “wistful nostalgia.” This season’s base color palette is grounded with versatile shades of taupe, grey and navy, with a pop of bright corals, pinks and yellows. The dress remains at the core of this season’s trends. Every designer collection is brimming with choices. We see the sophisticated shirt dress that ties easily around the waist, and the Mad Men-influenced sheath that gives shape, accentuating the curves. The elegant LBD (Little Black Dress) is always in style, though it doesn’t have to be black! Choose beautiful silk jerseys that drape your body as you stroll through the garden, or run barefoot at the pool party in a maxi dress! Go ahead ladies, ‘tis the season to embrace your femininity.

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ARMANI COLLEZIONI


CHEAP & CHIC BY MOSCHINO


AKRIS punto


THEODORA & CALLUM


ETRO


MARC CAIN


ST. JOHN


COLLECTION IRIS FOR HER SAMUELSOHN & ETON FOR HIM


WEILL & CHRISTINE MOORE FOR HER CANALI & ETON FOR HIM


ROBERT GRAHAM


ETRO


ETON, GARDEUR & SCHNEIDERS


ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA


SCOTT BARBER


ROBERT TALBOTT


BRIONI


LUCIANO BARBERA


V.K. NAGRANI


3 Sisters

Nanette Lepore

REDValentino

Weill St. John Knits

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Kate Spade

PHILOSOPHY

di Alberta Ferretti

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Lotusgrace


THE OFFICIAL STYLE OF THE


ASKFORUM Q:

My once-youthful husband is starting to show his age. How can he update his image without looking like an idiot? It’s a good question since all too often, middle-aged guys trying to dress “cool” look just plain silly. Here are a few tips for dressing young without looking foolish: 1) Wear clothes that fit. These days, slim (not tight) is in, so anything that’s been hanging in your closet a few years is likely too baggy and poorly proportioned. Try a more current fit with narrower lapels and flat-front trousers. You’re sure to see a difference: even big guys look thinner in fitted clothing. 2) Choose grown-up clothes. Unless you’re on stage with a guitar, ripped jeans and T-shirts are a sign that you’re trying too hard. Premium denim, however, worn with a blazer or soft coat, is modern and appropriate. (Try a plaid sportcoat this season and get noticed, in a good way!) 3) Pay attention to accessories. Great style is all about making a personal statement. Nothing updates your look faster than new eyewear; get rid of those dated frames! Splurge on a beautiful belt or bag, handmade footwear or a special watch. This will modernize your image and make the whole outfit look expensive. 4) What’s old is new again. Cardigan sweaters, knit vests, bowties, boat shoes, and all manner of preppy prints (argyles, plaids) are back in style. The key to pulling it off: pick just a piece or two and wear it with confidence. Choose a classic short trench coat this spring: it will transform whatever else you’re wearing. 5) Good grooming is all important and the right haircut can take years off. Don’t even think about a comb-over (sorry Donald): invest in a good stylist or think about shaving it all off. 6) Don’t take fashion so seriously. Add something playful here and there, even with business attire: bold socks, a fun scarf or pocket square, novelty cufflinks. The only thing worse than trying too hard to dress young is worrying too much about how it all comes together. If you buy quality, you can’t screw it up too badly.

After many seasons of long printed board shorts, swimwear designers are showing more leg. Retro-inspired patterns including stripes, plaids, batiks and bandanna prints will be popular, especially in happy colors. It’s almost a ’60s feeling: start the diet now…

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IMAGE BY JON MOE

Q:

What’s hot in swimwear for 2011?


ASKFORUM I’ve been wearing leggings and skinny pants for the past few seasons; are they still in style?

Q:

Yes, slim pants are still in style. But so are softer, fuller models. For spring 2011, it’s all about proportion and balance. Choose either slim-fitting tops with tailored fuller pants, or go with volume on top balanced by a slimmer bottom. While there will always be exceptions, this is a good rule of thumb when you’re unsure. Better yet, come into the store and let us show you how it works.

Q:

Are shorts appropriate for the office?

As they say in real estate, it’s about location, location, location. Where you wear shorts and where the hem hits your leg should reflect dress codes at your company and within your particular industry. If you love wearing shorts and they meet with company standards, keep your peers focused on your work (and not your gams) by skipping the short shorts. And never go too bare on top when you’re wearing shorts—showing too much skin is a distraction and sends a less-than-professional message. Finally, keep your shoes casual, yet polished. A neutral wedge, fabric espadrille or cute flat works best. When in doubt about shorts at the office, don’t wear them. A skirt that hits just above the knee is a safer bet.

Definitely. Ruffles don’t have to be done in a big way. If you’re lucky enough to have height, larger ruffles work easily. If you’re petite, don’t let the ruffles overwhelm you: Look for mini ruffles as trim, or one or two soft, draping ruffles. In fact, a slightly ruffled blouse or tank is a great way to temper a too-rigid suit or blazer. The crisp white ruffled shirt is a wardrobe essential, but otherwise stick to drapey fabrics...so your ruffles won’t have ridges.

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IMAGE COURTESY OF BOSS BLACK

Q:

I love ruffles but I’m neither tall nor skinny; can I wear them?


designer profile

NO ORDINARY MIDDLE MAN ISAIA TOES THE LINE BETWEEN CLASSIC AND CONTEMPORARY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

Ask Gianluca Isaia to describe his eponymous collection of men’s suits and sportswear and he’ll tell you that it fits comfortably in the middle between classic and contemporary. “We offer the quality of more traditional luxury brands but with the styling of high fashion labels,” says Isaia (above), an anomaly among Italian menswear makers who is known for wearing inexpensive leather fisherman sandals with his impeccably tailored cashmere suits. The offbeat combination is the boyish designer’s way of illustrating the incredible versatility of his clothing. Men today want the freedom to mix denim with their pinstripe suit jackets, says Isaia, whose colorful clothing is made in Naples. Such idiosyncratic dressing, he insists, is not a sign of “a guy who doesn’t know how to decide” but rather that of a man “who is comfortable [enough] in his own skin to create a style that is uniquely his own.”

The line includes jackets cut with the same slightly pinched shoulder and high armhole found on most handmade Neapolitan garments. Yet there are significant differences, including a relaxed but shapely waist and the company’s

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own pignattiello pocket, shaped like an Italian pot of the same name typically used to cook beans. Isaia’s trousers are athletic and lean, but not uncomfortably snug, and they are rarely pleated. The style is Neapolitan, with an edge. Since Isaia likes the look, but not the weight, of vintage textiles, he dilligently searches through the 54-year-old company’s treasure trove of archival fabrics to find bold stripes and checks he can reproduce in modern color combinations. He’s also been known to invent his own textiles: After spilling red wine on his pants, Isaia had the idea to develop AquaSpider, the first all-natural wool fabric in which the yarns are chemically treated to resist water and stains while retaining softness. Subsequent experiments resulted in an entire range of Aqua fabrics, including AquaCashmere, AquaChino (cotton) and, most recently, AquaLight, only half the weight of conventional wool. Such fabrics give an incredible lightness of being to many of Isaia’s pieces. By mixing them with old world hand tailoring and modern styling, Isaia has found a way to, as he says, “offer a whole new definition of Neapolitan style to the American man.”


H i g h l a n d C l e a n e r s. c o m


accessories

ODE TO THE

POCKET SQUARE ITS ASSETS ARE ENDLESS AND ITS DRAWBACKS FEW. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

Unexpected Edge The classic way to don a pocket square is with a beautifully tailored suit. Here, it’s white linen in a three point fold. (Three and four point folds also pair well with double breasted blazers—a growing trend—since pointy peaks highlight the jacket’s architectural construction.) Extra style points to the man confident enough to add a small bloom to his lapel.

Fashionable men agree that accessorizing is the make-it-or-break-it of great style, and pocket squares are an effortless way to add interest to your look. They can be worn on almost any occasion (see the proof here) and they come in an incredible array of fabrics, patterns and colors. With such a plethora of options, we

Casual Cool Proof positive that pocket squares don’t have to be stuffy. Worn with a soft coat and linen shorts, the small peek of pattern is fun and makes the outfit feel finished. If you haven’t yet mastered the art of polished casual, it’s time to bring your wardrobe up to speed.

“Pocket squares are like the mood ring of men’s fashion!” —Tyler Mitchell, specialty store merchant

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A heritage of Swedish design and innovation since 1928


RUNWAY IMAGES ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. PRODUCT IMAGES ETRO

won’t bore you here with lists of folds (there are at least 15!) and step-by-step howto’s. The internet is a great resource for instructional videos and style inspiration, or better yet, come into the store and our expert stylists will teach you the basics and send you home with a square for every circumstance.

“YOU’LL GET APPROVING NODS FROM

OLDER GENTLEMEN FOR WHOM A POCKET SQUARE HAS ALWAYS BEEN LIKE A FRIEND. AND THE WOMEN YOU MEET…WELL, YOU WILL NOTICE A DIFFERENCE IN THEIR LINGERING GLANCES AND THE GLINT IN THEIR EYES AS THEY SURVEY YOUR ATTIRE.” —ASKMEN.COM

w w w. ro b e r t t a l b ot t . co m

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FORMALWEAR RULES TO FOLLOW. BY CARL SLESINGER

THE FINER THINGS When considering an investment, it’s wise to weigh the pros and cons. But when deciding whether to purchase a tuxedo, there is simply no plus side to renting. Formalwear is for life’s milestone events: do you really want to spend your important moments in some other guy’s tux? Whether at a wedding, charity gala or professional event, looking and feeling your best is priceless. Besides, the initial cost will be amortized after only a few wearings. Follow these simple pointers to ensure you make the right choice.

ETIQUITTE: Events touted as ‘black tie’ require a

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IMAGE COURTESY OF ISAIA

THE LIFE OF YOUR TUXEDO WILL ALWAYS BE LONGER THAN THAT OF YOUR WIFE’S GOWN.

tuxedo. ‘White tie’ or ‘full dress’ occasions call for tails paired with a white pique tie and matching vest. Full dress is only appropriate after 6 o’clock in the evening and is generally requested at weddings, balls or diplomatic events. COLOR: Black formalwear is classic and the most widely accepted, but navy can be worn at festive events, by those brave enough to pull it off with confidence. Historically, white dinner jackets are appropriate between Memorial Day and Labor Day, and are also generally acceptable on cruises. (If you’re traveling south of the equator, remember that summer runs from late-December through March.) STYLE: The tuxedo was originally designed with a peak lapel. The shawl (rounded) lapel, worn by waiters and the maitre d’, has recently grown in popularity and can be spotted on Hollywood’s red carpets. The notch lapel, styled like a suit, is also an option. Regardless of shape, tuxedo lapels should always have a satin or silk faille facing in the same color as the suiting fabric. CARE: If you’ve been wild and crazy and have soiled your tux, send it to the cleaner right away. If it’s only wrinkled and you aren’t using it again for at least a week, put it on a contoured hanger and let the wrinkles hang out. If you’re not planning to wear it again until “I don’t know when,” hang it, cover with a clothing storage bag that’s open at the bottom, and keep in a dry place. This should keep dust off the shoulders and protect it until your next wearing. As long as your tux fits, you should continue to wear it. Minor alterations can easily be made by a skilled tailor at our store. And when it finally becomes time again to invest in an updated model, this should reassure you: the life of your tuxedo will always be longer than that of your wife’s gown.


designer profile

THE IDEA IS TO SHOW THE EXTREME VERSATILITY OF THE MODERN SUIT, WHICH IS NO LONGER CONFINED TO THE OFFICE.

TIMELESS CLASSIC CANALI REWRITES THE MANUAL ON MODERN ITALIAN STYLE. BY WILLIAM KISSEL In the 1960s, when Italy was coming out of a long period of political and economic turmoil, Federico Fellini’s fashionable masterpiece La Dolce Vita brought a new sense of optimism and helped propagate the country’s reputation as an axis of sophistication and elegance. “I like to think of that period as the golden age of Italian style,” says Elisabetta Canali, whose familyowned brand took fashion cues from the 50-year-old classic film. “The suits worn by Marcello Mastroianni had a certain sophistication, but they were not stiff looking at all,” explains Canali, the company’s third generation global communications director. “We wanted to put this vintage sense of style in our [spring] collection, but reinterpreted in a much more contemporary way.” Such innovation has been in the brand’s DNA since cousins Giovanni and Giacomo Canali established the label in 1934 with

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the first 2-button notch lapel suit, constructed to be easily adaptable to any body type. Over the years Canali has evolved to include detail-driven sportswear, outerwear and accessories, while retaining its technical prowess for superior suit making. The brand often presents its tailored clothing as sportswear, pairing dress slacks with silky polo knits, and two-piece suits with casual sport shirts and even lightweight sweaters. The idea, says Canali, is to show the extreme versatility of the modern suit, which is no longer confined to the office. “It’s what I refer to as informal elegance,” says Canali, noting that even the classic DB blazer can be contemporary if worn with jeans or 5-pocket chinos. “Of course the silhouette is slimmer, the buttons are higher and the shoulders are more natural,” she says, “but the double breasted is timeless and one of the most elegant expressions of a jacket a man can own.”

New to Canali are the “S” model jacket (a slimmer, shorter, sexier silhouette), and the completely unlined and unconstructed Kei jacket that’s cut like a sportcoat but wears and feels like a sweater. Canali also launched Canali Exclusive, a line of made-toorder tailored clothing crafted from the rarest super wools.


humor

Women are compulsive shoppers. It’s more than a passion; it’s an addiction. Last week, as we were dressing to go out, I watched helplessly as my wife tried on a dozen pairs of black pants, ripping each off her body as she became increasingly frantic. “Nothing works!” she cried in frustration, as she asked me which looked best. Knowing this was a trick question, I told her only that they all looked fine. She eyed me skeptically like I was denying a felony charge for which she had hard evidence. “The skinny pants make me look fat; I don’t have the right boots for the boot cut pair; the flannel trousers are too heavy for this weather! How can you possibly say they look fine?” Now I’m starting to understand: she not only discerns difference among them, but she actually believes these nuances matter! Perhaps this explains why she owns dozens of black jackets and white blouses and infinite pairs of jeans, not to mention the shoes and handbags.... The following Saturday evening, I put on a pair of gray trousers. They have lots of pleats, and suddenly, I’m not feeling so many pleats. I pull out another pair, which seem fine until I put them on and notice that the cuffs are dragging on the floor. (Either the pants grew or I shrunk….) Since there are no more gray pants in my closet, I take out some black ones, only to notice that the fabric has become inexplicably shiny. And when I throw on the navy blazer, it’s obvious (even to me) that it would look much better with gray pants. At that moment, my wife walks in from shopping, exuberant and exhausted. “I’ve found the perfect black pants,” she exclaims with a sense of joy I’d not heard from her since I proposed 20 years ago. And for the first time in all those years, I understand her excitement. “Next time,” I suggest with trepidation, “maybe I’ll come with you....”

SOMETIMES, STYLISTIC NUANCES DO MATTER.

’ve figured out the main difference between men and women. It’s not that men can’t watch TV without tapping the remote, not that women prefer foreplay to actual sex, and not that men can’t communicate (though these things may be true). After getting gradually crowded out of every closet (and every drawer in every dresser), the difference is clear:

WOMEN HAVE IT, MEN COULD USE IT… BY MIKE SAMUELS

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TRUNK ARCHIVE / DANIEL JACKSON

The Shopping Gene


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trends

not

SPRING 2011 RUNWAY LOOKS YOU SHOULDN’T TRY AT HOME.

TO WEAR

WHAT

IT’S OKAY TO ADD A POP OF COLOR TO YOUR OUTFIT, BUT TRY DOING IT WITH A BRIGHT SHIRT OR ACCESSORY INSTEAD OF SHINY PANTS.

LAYERING IS A TREND WE CAN GET BEHIND, BUT PLEASE, NO LEGGINGS!

Branch out from a boring black formalwear look, BUT BEWARE OF METALLIC OVERKILL. 56

ADD INTEREST WITH YOUR TIE OR VEST, OR TRY A CLASSIC TUX IN NAVY FOR SOMETHING THAT’S EYE-CATCHING BUT APPROPRIATE.


GETTY IMAGE.NET

We’re all for updating your denim, but go for a slimmer fit and a darker wash; avoid unnecessary bells and whistles.

SWIMSUITS SHOULD BE FUN, BUT LET’S FACE IT: FEW MEN CAN PULL OFF THESE TINY TRUNKS! 57


Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

BRIGHTEN UP! SPRING 2011 IS A SEASON TO LIGHTEN UP, BRIGHTEN UP AND HAVE SOME FUN. ENERGIZE YOUR WARDROBE (AND YOUR LIFE) WITH A SPLASH OF COLOR!


LIGHTEN UP!SOFT FABRICS IN PALE SUNDRENCHED SHADES REFLECT INNER PEACE AND SERENITY. IT’S TIME TO RELAX!


CHEER UP!BOLD COLORS ELEVATE YOUR MOOD. ONCE IN AWHILE, IT’S OKAY TO LIVE DANGEROUSLY…


LOOKING UP!MIX COLOR WITH WHITE FOR A CRISP CLEAN LOOK THAT’S MODERN, FRESH AND OH SO SEXY. IT’S WHAT YOU NEED NOW…


MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES; HAIR AND MAKEUP: LAUREN FRENDEN / ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; MODELS: STUART B-WILHELMINA MIAMI; JOSH JOHNSON-WILHELMINA MIAMI; FABRICIO ZUNINO-NEXT MODELS MAIMI; VALESKA-ELITE MODELS; LARISA-ELITE MIAMI; ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; JEWELRY: ROBIN ROTINIER


CELEBRATING THE ICONIC BLUE BLAZER

A classic wardrobe staple, the quintessential blue blazer graduates from prep school to country club and travels with global sophistication.


Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

NAUTICAL EASE INTO SPRING WITH A KNIT BLAZER FOR THE ULTIMATE IN COMFORT AND COOL. PAIR IT WITH FURNISHINGS THAT POP, CRISP WHITE TROUSERS AND CLASSIC BOAT SHOES. YOU’RE READY FOR THE CAPTAIN’S TABLE


PREP COOL MINIMUM EFFORT, MAXIMUM IMPACT IN AN ITALIAN VERSION OF THE NAVY BLAZER, BOLD PIQUE KNIT POLO, ROLLED-UP TROUSERS AND CLASSIC SNEAKERS. DON’T FORGET THE EYEWEAR: BIGGER IS BETTER THIS SEASON


ASSOCIATE EDITOR: TARA FERRI; GROOMING: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: PARKER HURLEY-RED MODEL MANAGEMENT; PAUL FRANCIS-Q MODELS; ASSISTANT: JULIO FRIAS; PROPS: PROPS FOR TODAY

EURO-LAYERED PILE IT ON, BUT GENTLY! START WITH A SOFT WHITE POLO, ADD A FINE COTTON SHIRT, SLIMCUT BLAZER, CARGO PANTS AND SUEDE WINGTIPS. CASUALLY DRAPE A CASHMERE SWEATER FOR GOOD MEASURE. MAGNIFICO!


SARTORIAL THE CLASSIC NAVY BLAZER PAIRED WITH BOLD SHIRT AND TIE, ELEGANT TROUSERS AND BROWN SUEDE SHOES TAKES YOU ANYWHERE AND EVERYWHERE, SCORING POINTS ALONG THE WAY


MODERN YOU CAN TRY THIS AT HOME! MIX A GREAT BLAZER WITH PREMIUM DENIM (DARK IS BEST), A PATTERNED SHIRT AND FABULOUS SHOES. FLAUNT YOUR PERSONAL STYLE AND MAKE THE BLAZER LOOK YOUR OWN


world scene

YOUR RIDE’S HERE

BRP

H

ead to the open road in BRP’s new CanAm Spyder RT. Powered by a Rotax 991 engine with electronic throttle control optimized for touring, the roadster features a BOSCH-engineered vehicle stability system, includng anti-lock brakes and traction control, so you don’t have to be a pro to ride. The latest models come with adjustable electric windshields to protect you from the elements. And so the well-dressed man can bring along his wardrobe, Can-Am offers fitted color-coordinated Spyder RT rolling luggage. Now that’s biker chic.

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

CORRALING THE RIGHT WINES

TEUBNER FOODFOTO - STOCKFOOD MUNICH / STOCKFOOD

S

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ommelier Richard Patino from The French Room, at The Adolphus in Dallas, offers perfect pairing suggestions for your upcoming barbecues. For a wonderful white, there’s Francois Pinon Cuvée Silex Noir, Vouvray 2008, a Chenin Blanc from France’s Loire Valley that is slightly “off-dry” but retains bright acidity to complement sweet honey BBQ sauce. Another is Au Bon Climat Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley 2008, which matches well with chicken or shellfish. For summer reds, try d’Arenberg Footbolt Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2008, a 100 percent Shiraz from Australia. This wine has red fruit aromas with spicy undertones, so it pairs well with short ribs. For beef or pork, drink A. Rafanelli Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2008, with characteristics of jammy fruit and a hint of black pepper. At fancy occasions, Patino suggests Domaine De La Solitude, Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2009. But, he says, the perfect BBQ wine is Lambert Bridge Forchini Vineyard Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2007. This versatile Zinfandel is equally amazing with baby back ribs, brisket, or cheeseburgers.


CAVIAR COLLECTION. . .

Orlanda likes designing with Black and White Diamonds for a dazzling dramatic effect and crafts her pieces using only the finest materials. Her jewelry was chosen by the Platinum Guild for the “Red Carpet” at the Golden Globe Awards. Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection exclusively at Rodes for Her.

BY ORLANDA OLSEN


Austin-Lehman Adventures specializes in explorations that combine outdoor activities such as hiking, rafting and horseback riding with nights spent at distinctive inns. Or they’ll craft a special trip and you can see the sights in your own way. For a family reunion, the company flew guests to a Montana ranch where they enjoyed fishing lessons, horseback riding and a tour of Yellowstone National Park led by a private wildlife expert. On another occasion, the company arranged for a gentleman to treat his twin grandsons to six national parks in five days by private jet. And when a Chicago businessman wanted a unique celebration for his wife’s 60th birthday, Austin-Lehman set up cocktails in the surf of Kauai at sunset and sent a helicopter to release hundreds of pounds of rose petals around the couple as they toasted. Where in the world do you want to go?

AUSTIN-LEHMAN

THE CONTINUING ADVENTURES OF...YOU

JOE TABACCA PHOTOGRAPHY

LEFT TO YOUR OWN DEVICES The CEO of a Fortune 500 company wanted a TV he could view from his bathroom sink, but didn’t want to see it when not in use. Joshua Rich, president of Rich AV Design, which specializes in unique and one-of-a-kind electronic installations, created a vanity mirror that turns into a television. When the TV is off, it’s a regular bathroom mirror; when the TV is on, a portion of the mirror becomes a 19” HDTV. Rich has also handled the installation of custom anamorphic movie screens that adapt to the varying aspect ratios of movies and TV shows, and arranged media rooms with motorized chairs and automated lights. He can even make a ‘butt remote,’ a simple control that powers on your entire home theater when you sit on the sofa. It gives the term ‘smartass’ a whole new meaning.

HELLAS BENT

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KISTERNA HOTEL, HISTORIC HOTELS OF GREECE

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bout four hours from Athens, in the Greek Peloponnese, is one of the most fascinating hotels in Greece: the Kinsterna Hotel and Spa. Once the estate of an Ottoman judge, now grandly refurbished and elevated to membership in the Historic Hotels of Greece, this Byzantine-era mansion sits on the side of a hill, sequestered amid vineyards and olive and citrus groves, facing Monemvasia Castle and the Aegean. The main buildings are a historical assortment of Byzantine, Ottoman, Venetian and modern Greek architecture. Inside the restored stone walls the 27 suites have fireplaces and marble bathrooms, the spa offers a purifying traditional Ottoman hammam, and the swimming pool begins as a brook feeding off the ancient cistern and grows to run like a river through centuries-old orange trees. Opened just last year, the Kinsterna has already become popular with celebrities and heads of state who relish the solitude of the tranquil Mediterranean environment.


Quality is Always Fashionable

ALGO


sports style CHIP GANASSI COMBINES SPEED, STYLE AND BUSINESS SAVVY. BY DAVID A. ROSE

ou might say 2010 was an extraordinary year for Chip Ganassi. On February 14th one of his stock cars, driven by Jamie McMurray, won NASCAR’s premier event, the Daytona 500. On May 30th one of his Indy Cars won the Memorial Day classic, the Indianapolis 500. Two months later McMurray won NASCAR’s high profile race at Indianapolis, the Brickyard 400, making Ganassi the first team owner ever to win the Triple Crown of American motorsports. Ganassi himself raced in the Indianapolis 500 five times beginning in 1981, but in 1984 he suffered a major crash at the Michigan International Speedway that ended his career as a driver. He formed Chip Ganassi Racing in 1990 with primary sponsorship from Target stores. As president and majority owner, Ganassi now manages teams in both the Indy Car Series and the GrandAm Rolex Sports Car Series. He’s also partnered with Dale Earnhardt, Inc. to form Earnhardt

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Above: Dario Franchitti clinches the Indy Car Championship for the second year in a row Left: Scott Dixon, Ganassi and Franchitti show off the Borg Warner and Harley J. Earl Trophies

IMAGES COURTESY OF TARGET CHIP GANASSI RACING

WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS


Ganassi Racing in NASCAR. Here, Forum gets the scoop on what drives this motorsports superstar.

No, we currently have six drivers in five cars, and although I may have the urge sometimes to give advice on how to drive, I don’t. Because I was once a driver I have a connection to what they’re going through, so I think I bring something to the table beyond just being an owner and manager.

When Lotus developed the ground effects car in the late 1970s, James Hunt retired from racing, saying he didn’t want to be an irrelevant part (less than 50 percent) of the driver/car equation. What percentage of the equation are drivers today?

IMAGE COURTESY OF CHIP GANASSI RACING WITH FELIX SABATES

Ganassi and Scott Pruett celebrate after winning the Grand Prix of Miami at HomesteadMiami Speedway

You’ve gone from being a racecar driver to a driving force in motor racing. Which role is more fulfilling? While I was growing up in Pittsburgh, I always had visions of sitting atop one of these buildings and running a company. When I started in motor racing I never thought it would be my career; I figured it would be a weekend activity, nothing more. Although there was no period in my life more exciting than the time I was a racecar driver, it was then that I realized I loved motorsports as a business. So I’d have to say what I’m doing now is most fulfilling.

As a former driver, do you ever have the urge to climb into the racecar yourself?

I have a lot of respect for James Hunt and he was a good driver, but as racing cars evolve technically, it may make some drivers obsolete. At the same time, it will bring other drivers along. These days, you need to have it all: 100 percent car, 100 percent driver, 100 percent crew.

You’ve been at this sport for 30 years; what has been your most memorable event? Qualifying for my first Indianapolis 500 in 1982, just 10 days after I graduated from college. I had just turned 23 and I was the fastest rookie at Indianapolis that year. Since then we’ve had a lot of great wins in great cars with great drivers, but that day in 1982 was when it all began.

The Target Chip Ganassi relationship seems to go beyond dollars and cents. How does a business relationship acheive this kind of synergy? I feel fortunate to have been a part

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of Target when their company was growing. When I first met them they had 400 stores; today there are 1700. Target embraces change and they’re often at the leading edge. Our values, our work ethics and our views of things are very much aligned, and when you are that aligned, you end up with a good relationship. It’s that simple.

When Jamie McMurray won the Brickyard 400, you became the first team owner to win America’s triple crown. How did that feel? I’m more pleased that all six of my drivers have won at least one race this year. That to me is more exciting than me winning the triple crown.

Since Forum is a fashion and lifestyle magazine, tell us about your fashion sense. I’m in the sports business and so my personal style is centered on casual sportswear. I enjoy wearing my Zegna suits, but obviously I would look a bit out of place at the race track dressed that way.

What was your last clothing purchase and what might you buy next? My last purchase was that Zegna navy blazer you see hanging on the wall over there. My next purchase will be a Loro Piana scarf.

What do you do to relax? A few years ago I moved out to Fox Chapel, Pennsylvania; I love being around my house, swimming in my pool in the summer and skiing in the winter. I enjoy feeding the fish in my fish pond and also doing yard work. It’s about as far from racecar driving as it gets.


food

It’s All About

Lakshmi and special guest Joe Jonas give Top Chef contestants instructions for a “Quickfire Challenge”

Taste

COOKING, DRESSING AND ACCESSORIZING HAVE MUCH IN COMMON. BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI ormer supermodel and current co-host of Bravo’s Top Chef, Padma Lakshmi, is well versed in multitasking. She launched her jewelry collection, Padma, two years ago, but in addition to her roles as television host and jewelry maker, Lakshmi is an author, Pantene spokesperson, co-founder of the Endometriosis Foundation of America and, most recently, a mother. Let’s start with food: How did you first get involved with cooking? The kitchen was the place the women in my family congregated. My mother was famous for feeding people spontaneously: If you showed up at her house unannounced, she could whip something up in a half-hour or less. If

she had something like leftover chicken, she’d throw it in a stockpot and make a stew. I call this “MacGyvering in the kitchen.” Can you discuss the leap from supermodel to food expert? To me, it made sense. I always loved to cook, but after college I started modeling to pay off my loans. I had studied theatre, but most of my career was spent in fashion—first as a model then as an editor with Harper’s Bazaar and The New York Times. [Food] was just a natural extension for me. Both food and fashion are about good taste. What are some of your most memorable Top Chef moments? There are so many! There was this

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one dessert, however, a few seasons back…Ariane [Duarte] made this lemon curd that was so sour and so sweet that it was hard to take more than one dollop of it. And Ariane is such a nice woman, I felt awful. (Editor’s note: Lakshmi spit the dessert out.) Can you tell us what you notice first in a man? I don’t like a man to look too perfect, nor do I like a man to look too sloppy. The first thing I notice is his face, the second is his voice and what he’s using it to say. What’s next for you? I don’t have a master plan, but I’m looking forward to spending more time with my daughter and trying to rest a little. I just finished filming and I’m pretty beat! I’d love to go to Bali, maybe do an eating tour of Thailand. You’d think I’d be sick of eating…but I’m not!


{Louisville’s Finest}

slmag.net

Mar/Apr 2011 five dollars

Louisville's Finest Magazine slmag.net


drink

A FEW BAD APPLES (OR IN THIS CASE, GRAPES) GAVE A GOOD WINE A NOT-SOGOOD REPUTATION.

A WINE BY ANY OTHER NAME

Italian wine” in 1984’s The Signet Encyclopedia of Wine. But mass production of cheap, low-quality product flooded the U.S. market (most blame the Bolla cooperative) and tarnished the Soave name. Thirty years later, wine culture has become a huge part of our culinary experience. Though more Americans today are wine drinkers, those who don’t have a negative perception of Soave have likely never heard of it at all. A challenge for the region’s wine producers, but also a rare opportunitiy to introduce

n the 1970s and ’80s, Soave was synonymous with Italian white wine, much as Chianti was the Italian red. A recent article in the Wall Street Journal points out that Soave had even been described as “America’s favorite white

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IMAGES BY TRACY HOWARD

CAN SOAVE REGAIN ITS PLACE AS THE MOST POPULAR WHITE WINE IN AMERICA? BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE


this generation of wine lovers to something “new.” Located just east of Verona at the base of the Lessini Mountains, Soave is a small town that, despite its size, is home to over 3,000 wine producers. It has a proud tradition of winemaking dating back to the Middle Ages, and many of the family-owned vineyards have not changed hands for centuries. In Soave, like much of the Veneto region it is a part of, houses, roads and olive trees are the only things left uncovered by vines. A few wild poppies scattered among the neatly planted rows are the only contrast to the lush green. Of the 12,000 hectares of land between Verona and Venice, 8,000 are planted with

vineyards. Each hectare contains between 3,500 and 5,000 individual vines, resulting in the most concentrated coverage in all of Italy. So it’s no surprise that Soave still produces the largest volume of white wine in the country, and is the third largest wine producing area overall. 60 to 70 million bottles are produced each year, about 60 to 70 percent of which are exported. With so many growers and such

a large output, there are obvious challenges to controlling standards of production. The Consorzio di Tutela Soave is an organization of producers dedicated to doing just that, as well as promoting Soave wines throughout the world. Over the last five years, they have redoubled their efforts to increase quality and recapture the hearts (and palates) of American wine drinkers. Says Giovanni Ponchia, the con-

sortium’s oenologist, “Good wines have been made here all along, and enjoyed in many parts of the world. We want to keep doing what we do best but always improve the balance between the volume of output and the quality of the product.” Production of Soave is, in fact, tightly controlled. Grapes are carefully grown in well-defined regions according to strict traditions. 70 percent of the wine must be comprised of the Garganega grape, and the other 30 percent can be made up of Chardonnay or Trebbiano. (The trend in recent years is towards Trebbiano, and the highest quality wines are often 100 percent Garganega.) Most growers in the region use the pergola veronese trellising method, in which wooden canopies two meters tall train the vines upward, then outward. This allows the clusters to spread out, so the wind can blow between each

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grape to keep them dry without knocking them off the vine. Once bottled, wines are aged for an average of one to three years before being released onto the market, and are meant to be drunk young (though under the right conditions some have aged surprisingly well). Soave wines range in color from pale to straw yellow and have a fruity-floral nose, with notes of citrus, balanced acidity and a strong finish. Soave pairs well with aged cheeses and light seafood dishes, and the consortium hopes to convince American consumers that their wines are a fresh alternative to Pinot Grigio, whose market in the U.S. has become oversaturated and overpriced. Ponchia says that 2009 was one

of the best growing seasons in the past 10 years, which means some excellent wines are hitting the shelves now, and well worth a try at pricepoints around $20. “We don’t have to ignore history,” he says. “We can’t take anything away from Bolla; they were, after all, the first to introduce Soave to America. But we want to bring back order and seriousness to the business of winemaking. We’ve learned from our mistakes. For those who appreciate and recognize quality, now is the time to give Soave a second chance.”


indulgences

THE LEICA M9 TITANIUM, DESIGNED BY WALTER DE’SILVA, CHIEF DESIGNER FOR THE VOLKSWAGEN GROUP, AND THE CREATIVE GENIUS BEHIND VARIOUS ALFA ROMEOS, AUDIS AND VWS.

shutter RELEASE LIMITED EDITION DIGITAL CAMERAS RESTORE PHOTOGRAPHY’S ALLURE. BY JOHN JONES

Needless to say, at this point, it’s too late to get one. Never fear. Set your sights on the Leica M9 Titanium, designed by Walter de’Silva, chief designer for the Volkswagen Group, and the creative genius behind various Alfa Romeos, Audis and VWs. Again the camera is trimmed in leather—this time using hides typically reserved for the interiors of premium Audi automobiles. The body is made from solid titanium and each comes with a Leica Summilux-M 35mm f/1.4 ASPH lens, meaning that

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your photos, no matter how poorly composed, will come out crystal clear and razor sharp. The camera’s grip is enhanced by a specially designed and embossed diamond structure. Which is good because at $26,500, you wouldn’t want to drop this baby. Magnanimously, Leica upped the limited edition to 500 units, so you might actually stand a chance of procuring one. But if you want to get your hands on the Hasselblad Limited H4D Ferrari Edition, you need to move a bit faster: they limited production to only 499....

Hasselblad’s Limited H4D Ferrari Edition

IMAGES COURTESY OF LEICA CAMERA AND HASSELBLAD

hen Michelangelo Antonioni’s Blow-Up premiered in 1966, the life of a “shooter” was depicted as glamorous, exotic—and expensive. Forty-five years later, disposable digital cameras can be had at the corner drugstore for 12 bucks, the top-rated Nikon Coolpix point-and-shoot costs around $250 and even a decent single lens reflex camera can be had for $500. Throw in some free online software and anyone can be the next Ansel Adams. Photography’s allure has become positively democratic. Where’s the glamour in that? In an effort to reinstate the camera as a luxury accessory, German optics company Leica partnered with French luxury goods firm Hermès to create the Leica M7 Edition Hermès last year. Only 200 were produced, each encased in Hermès’s signature orange or “étoupe” brown Swiss calfskin, retailing for about $14,250.


3PRING3UMMER

ROB ERTG R A H A M .US


end page

AS YOU BUILD YOUR WARDROBE WITH QUALITY PIECES, YOU’LL CULTIVATE THAT DISCERNING EYE THAT RECOGNIZES A GOOD INVESTMENT.

DESIGN YOURSELF A great wardrobe, like DIY furniture, looks best when the pieces fit. By Hans Gschliesser embraced a designer aesthetic. You’ve trashed the worn futon and are now sitting pretty on a Mies van der Rohe sofa. Gone are the days of piecing together tag sale furniture in the hopes of creating a cohesive look that echoes your lifestyle. And so it should be for your wardrobe. You’re busy, and your time is too valuable to rely on bargain basement sales. Maybe you’ll get lucky and stumble on something that’s the right color or style, if it even fits. Likely not. So take the experts’ advice: find a look that works for you and shop in a store that consistently delivers the goods. Sometimes the best option is to focus on a single designer, like Zegna or Canali or Ralph Lauren. Find one with a fit that works for your body type and a look that reflects your attitude. Once you’ve got the foundation, you can round out your wardrobe with items from other designers and brands. Many interior designers these days choose to strike a balance between modern and classic. This applies to your appearance as well. Learn to make your look work without seeming forced or over-styled. Pare each outfit down to the essentials and you’ll be perceived as confident and competent. And remember: you’re a work in progress. As you build your wardrobe with quality pieces, you’ll cultivate that discerning eye that recognizes a good investment. It all adds up.

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PHOTOGRAPHER: JON MOE; MODEL: PAUL FRANCIS-Q MODELS

You’ve arrived! You’ve moved away from thrift shop finds and


www.canali.it


RODES FORUM SPRING 2011


Spring 2011 Rodes Fashion Forum Magazine