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Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2013

Rodes FALL FASHION

CATCH CABIN FEVER DESIGNERS GET PERSONAL THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT: GOLF GOES DIGITAL


Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

FEATURES

4 Welcome Letter 6 Happenings 36 Exceptional People Make an Exceptional Store 76 Tech: In Full Swing

FASHION 13 46 48 54 58 62 68

What’s Hot for Fall Profile: Doriani Designers: Talking to the Talent 1 Suit. 7 Ways. Style: On the Rise Log House of Style The Fall Guy

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

DEPARTMENTS 38 40 42 72 80

Ask Jim Ask Susan Man of Style: All About Al World Scene End Page: Restaurant Rules

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE

FALL/WINTER 2013 PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.


welcome

THE NEXT GENERATION Dear Friends, This past summer Susan and I were privileged to attend a few college graduations. The graduation speeches sparkled with stories of “technology today” and phrases like “follow your passion” and “make a difference.” As we observed these new graduates at the various dinners and festivities, we noticed how wellspoken, well-mannered and, frankly, well-dressed they all were. Our hearts skipped a beat. This is so exciting! Young men are opting to wear suits and ties again. Sports stars and rock stars are dressing up. There are literally thousands of male fashion blogs and magazines. What is up with all of this? It seems that this generation is in shape, technologically savvy, and looking for life experiences. They believe in the power of “real” local businesses and want an experience that incorporates it all. That’s where we come in! These are exciting times in our industry. More young people are enjoying the tactile experience of trying on and wearing fine clothing than ever before, but it’s the mix of education about the product and the technology involved that completes the experience. Theses “kids” are brand conscious, and lucky for us, sponges for information. So, after almost 100 years in Louisville, the combination of our people, experience, service and brands, coupled with technology, is right in their wheelhouse. It’s time to come in and rediscover what that feeling is like… time for you to dress like it really matters... because your kids are! Heck, why not? You have all that extra money “now that college is paid off”! LOL See you around town, Susan & Howard Vogt

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d e s i g n i n g

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residential & commercial design | handcrafted furniture | design accessories 7 3 1 E a s t M a i n S t re e t | 5 0 2 5 8 4 6 3 4 9 | w w w. b i t t n e r s . c o m | f a c e b o o k . c o m / b i t t n e r s d e s i g n


happenings Zegna & Eton Shops Grand Opening Party After completely renovating Rodes For Him, and installing the only Zegna and Eton Shops in the region, friends gathered to celebrate our magnificent transformation. Go to rodes.com to view the rest of the exciting photos from this event.


STYLISH AND TIMELESS The perfection of Pearls and Gold designed by Orlanda for the discerning Jewelry Connoisseur. Adore for a Lifetime and beyond. Fashion fades, but style is eternal. Quality and precision with exciting unique designs are her hallmarks. Orlanda’s jewelry was chosen by the Platinum Guild for the Red Carpet at the Golden Globe Awards Ceremony. Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection exclusively at Rodes For Her. WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM

DESIGNED BY


happenings Derby Divas Annual Fundraiser for Breast Cancer Over 340 people attended this year’s event, and the mood was celebratory. Thanks to the generosity of everyone involved, this event raised nearly $100,000 to support the Norton Cancer Institute Breast Health Program. See all the photos at rodes.com.


happenings

Derby 139 @ Rodes Our friends and fashionistas celebrated Derby 139 in style. Rodes’ fashion consultants helped them prepare for their Day at the Downs with the assistance of our fabulous vendor representatives, who showcased their collections from around the world. Go to rodes.com to see what’s in store for you next!


Quality

is Always Fashionable


The evolution of

EXHILARATION. The world’s first prestige luxury hybrid. The world’s first eight-speed automatic transmission. The world’s first LED low-beam headlamps. The world’s first active pedestrian-detection system. The list goes on. Lexus is basically a brain trust of visionaries—and these are the kinds of minds that are thinking about your next Lexus vehicle, right now.

Exit 17 Blankenbaker Pkwy South off I-64

Sales Hours: Mon. – Thurs. 9am to 9pm, Fri. & Sat. 9am to 6pm Service Hours: Mon. – Fri. 7am to 6pm and Saturday 8am to 6pm

502.499.5050

www.lexusoflouisville.com


Schneiders

Photography by Andrew Kung | Hair by Katy Jo Gardner and Makeup by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa. Hair & Makeup also by Catherine Jones

WHAT’S HOT FOR FALL


ISAIA


Armani Collezioni


Samuelsohn | Eton


St. John


Joeffer Caoc


Escada | Otazu

Emy Mack


Canali

Magnanni Seleccion


Etro


Lafayette 148 New York


Doriani | Agave

"Milly" courtesy of Ashley Blackburn.


GIMO'S | Eton


Grayse | Alexis Bittar


Montedoro | Eton

Incotex | John Varvatos


kate spade new york


Robert Talbott


Pink Tartan | Christine Moore Mitchie’s Matchings

"Milly" courtesy of Ashley Blackburn.


Raoul Sibilia Maria Fernanda


department

TESLA: THE REAL DEAL BEHIND THE WHEEL

Scott Barber

By David A. Rose

Caption Alt Gothic medium 13/13

Walkover

19 FORUM


Samuelsohn | Eton

Gravati


Cluny by Cynthia Steffe


Etro

John Varvatos


EXCEPTIONAL PEOPLE MAKE AN EXCEPTIONAL STORE ANNETTE GRISANTI

Annette Grisanti was born and raised right here in Louisville and she grew up in the hospitality industry. She began a career in the banking business, but left that profession to begin raising a family and spend time with her children. In 1993 Annette began a new chapter in her life in the fashion industry at She of Louisville. “I was going through a transition in my personal life and was shopping with a friend at She. I was introduced to the owner, Pat Schilling, and my friend suggested she hire me.” The ladies came to an agreement that Annette would work at She until she decided what she really wanted to do! After several months, Annette left to pursue a career in sales and management with the largest food distributor in Kentucky. Several years had gone by when Pat reached out and invited her to lunch, and she asked that Annette return to She as store manager. As they say, “the rest is history”. When She merged with Rodes in 2008, Annette found herself with yet another rewarding career as the manager of Rodes For Her. Hobbies: Making memories and spending time with her wonderful grandchildren, and traveling with her great husband. Volunteer work for Gilda's Club. Pilates and working out. Favorite Vacation: Spending time with family in Italy. Favorite Fashion Piece: Orlanda Olsen heart pendant and Zang Toi cashmere wrap. “Both are classic pieces that I will have forever. I love the classics with great colors.”

Memorable Rodes Story: “I had a client who was invited to the White House Press Dinner. At the last minute she realized she needed a wrap to go with her gown. She came in and found the perfect wrap; however, I sensed that she would love to have a new gown as well. It needed to be altered and ready that afternoon. Thanks to our fabulous alterations department it was altered and ready for her to leave with that afternoon. She looked beautiful!”

ANITA HENKEL

Anita Henkel is a native of Cincinnati. She began her career there in the fashion office of a major department store. Her efforts in fashion and sales promotion led to multi-media experiences: radio, television, magazine and newsprint photo shoots, as well as fashion shows. Anita was instrumental in identifying and interpreting the newest designs and trends, from European haute couture to the new breed of American ready-to-wear designers. After a move to Louisville in 1976, Anita joined the staff of She of Louisville, where she served and guided her customers for 22 years before joining the Rodes team. Favorite Vacation: A childhood two-month trip to Europe, where she experienced the sights and scenes, art and architecture and historical significance of old-world cultures, opened her eyes to adventure and exploration. Hobbies: Reading and travel. Her favorite book is Elegance by Genevieve Antoine Dariaux, a gift from her mother at age 17. It truly influenced her fashion viewpoint. Anita’s style: Classic chic Favorite Designer: "As difficult to choose as your favorite child: Christian Dior from the 'Golden Age of Couture' and Giorgio Armani for his timeless chic."

Memorable Rodes Story: "A few years ago, I received a phone call from one of my clients (who winters in Florida) eight days before Derby. She referred to me a woman in need of a Derby hat. Her horse had won the Arkansas Derby and it was a Derby contender, so she called me that evening and we chatted at length – about racing colors, hat shapes and sizes, etc. Then she said, 'Maybe I’ll just skip the hat'. And I responded, 'When you go to the winner’s circle, you must wear a hat.' I emailed pictures to her and made an appointment to meet at the Brown Hotel. I took several samples to try, and we settled on a beautiful horsehair chapeau, custom trimmed with their racing colors; I delivered it to the hotel on Friday. That Saturday she wore her hat and a big smile on her face as she walked into the winner’s circle as the owner of the new Kentucky Derby winner. P.S. I placed a nice bet on the horse and won!"


OUR SHELVES AND RACKS MAY BE FILLED WITH THE WORLD'S FINEST MEN'S AND WOMEN'S CLOTHING, BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT KEEPS CUSTOMERS COMING BACK.

PAULETTE

HABICH

Paulette Habich began her retail career at The Limited in 1983. After several fun years she wanted a career change. While reading the paper one day, she replied to an ad for flight attendants. Shortly thereafter, Paulette was on a flight to Pittsburgh. After 17 years of traveling the world, she decided to retire from her life in the air. A retirement package became available through the airline, and with her mother suffering from Alzheimer’s, Paulette decided to return to Louisville full time and rediscover the world of retail. She began working at Rodes For Him in 2007. “I had a very funny interview with Howard Vogt,” she remembers. “We still laugh to this day that I ended up interviewing him!” Hobbies: "Cycling with my friends and boating on the Ohio. In my spare time I love to garden with my father and hang out with my nieces and nephews.” Favorite Pieces in Her Closet: ”I cannot part with my vintage Gucci. My favorite designer is Versace.” Vacation Spots: The wine country in California.

Memorable Rodes Story: “I had a client who was going to the Governor’s Ball in Lexington. It was 6:30 p.m. and we close at 7 p.m. Everyone came together and pitched in to get his garments ready for the ball. I met him in the parking lot, where he changed and made it to the event on time. I just love the fact that we can provide such personal service and make someone’s day!”

JIM PORTER

Jim Porter was born and raised mostly in Louisville, the son of a career army man. Jim got into the clothing business after college, “not because I had any great ambition to sell clothes, but because I had some friends working at Schupp & Snyder and they always had nice clothes and beer money!” The evolution of Jim’s style began at Schupp & Snyder (S&S), a men’s haberdashery established in the early 1900s, and it has continued to develop under the guidance of some of the best “eyes” in the business. “S&S had an Ivy League sensibility, but with some southern flair,” says Jim. Within a few years he was going to New York on buying trips with the owner, John Kirwan, and he eventually took over as the store buyer. When Rodes bought S&S, Jim came on board as a seller and buyer working with Scotty Price. “This is where I learned to appreciate the artisanship of Italianmade clothing and how to blend it with my own personal style." Jim is now the men’s buyer and spends a good deal of his time in New York and Europe, bringing Louisville the best men’s clothing in the world. Jim’s Style: Southern traditional with Neapolitan flair! Hobbies: Cycling, travel and going to his son’s high school Lacrosse games. Vacation Spots: The Gulf Coast and the West Coast

Memorable Rodes Story: "We were preparing to alter the Ryder Cup Team's clothing when a storm hit the northeast part of the city and knocked out our power. So we hauled up two sewing machines from the basement in the dark, took our tailors and set up shop in the basement of the Brown Hotel. The players were most gracious and we made a great Rodes impression."


ASKJIM

FALL 2013 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM over the fabric with fine sandpaper but I worry I might make it worse.

Q:

Q:

I recently bought some Boxer shorts are not dress shirts with French working under the new slim cuffs. On the inside part of each pants I’ve been buying. What cuff, there are two cufflink type of underwear should I try? We suggest trim boxer briefs in holes, while on the outside part some of the new high-tech fabrics of the cuffs, just one. Why? that are moisture wicking, anti-

It’s to adjust the tightness of the sleeve, although not all makers offer this option. In any case, kudos to you for wearing French cuffs and cufflinks, adding a touch of class to your sartorial style. We hope you’re also trying bowties, pocket squares, tie clips and/or boutonnieres, all of which add personality to your executive look.

microbial and amazingly comfortable. Try them in fashion colors and patterns if you dare.

Q:

I’ve noticed that my darker, harder-finish wool suits (even the expensive ones) tend to pick up shine after dry cleaning. Is there anything I can do about this? I’m tempted to go 38

Skip the sandpaper and cut back on the dry cleaning. If your suit gets soiled, spot cleaning is best; dry clean as infrequently as possible. Other tricks of the trade: buy some good cedar hangers and leave space between suits in your closet; rotate your wardrobe so that you don’t wear the same suit on consecutive days. Most importantly: update your wardrobe with a new suit or two every year or so. With today’s slimmer fits, what’s in your closet is likely to look somewhat dated.

Q:

What’s the proper length for pants these days?

Definitely shorter than they used to be, now that slimmer leg styles are popular. While we don’t recommend showing your ankles (although young trendsetters are doing it!), we do suggest just a slight break to no break at the top of the shoe. Unfortunately, lots of guys are still wearing their pants with a big break or even a double break: we feel that excess fabric bunched up on slim pants is a bit unflattering.


ATTENTION TO DETAIL is what has turned Eton into one of the world’s finest shirt makers. Founded in 1928 by husband and wife Annie and David Pettersson, Eton’s dedicated belief in quality and craftsmanship has helped spread their story from the small village in Gånghester in the west of Sweden to some of the world’s most exclusive stores. Today, Eton is still run by the Pettersson family and remains loyal to its heritage as a specialist shirt maker.

celebrating 85 years of fine shirt making 1928–2013


ASKSUSAN Q:

Q:

There are many different trends nowadays, but some don’t look like they’re meant for real life. What style is actually in style?

Have you ever picked up a fashion magazine and asked yourself, “Who would actually wear that outfit, and to where?” Does anyone really wear four-inch wedge sandals with socks and short shorts? It’s an edgy look that showed up on the runways (and we have several clients that can pull it off), but I’m not really sure how this translates down to the majority of us.

What I have concluded is that fashion is an endless costume party. And since most of us can’t dress as if we’re heading to the Cannes Film Festival every day, ask yourself this each morning: “What is my quest of the day? Who am I feeling like this morning?” Whether your day requires you to be perfectly polished, preppy, or even an haute hippie, it’s all in fashion. Our job is to show you how to bring the missing elements together with what’s already in your closet, to help you reflect the mission of your day.

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FALL 2013 FASHION TIPS FOR HER Where is the newness for fall 2013?

It’s time to look like a lady. This fall’s fashion is uber-feminine, translating to a dress-centric season. How could it get any easier? Pull on a dress, slip on a pair of boots, add some bling — and off you go! When it comes to pant silhouettes, slim is still in! Freshen your look by thinking beyond denim: choose a pair in rich brocade, jacquard, ponte knit or leather. The color palette looks like it’s been color starved! Black and navy are the grounding tones, but don’t overlook the richness of camels and browns. And if you want to keep some color in your look, think pink for fall... ponder white after Labor Day… and consider lush tones of cobalt, merlot or emerald. Color-blocking continues to be strong, as do juxtapositions of fabric like leather on lace. A throwback to 1950s suiting, whether pants or a skirt, is also making a strong resurgence this season. It’s a reflection of a woman’s power: menswear fabrics translated into cropped pants and fitted jackets. Speaking of jackets, they’re back in dramatic style, catching the eye with zippers, grommets and studs, or in solid fabrics with bold contrast collars. Pair them with denim and a pair of brightly colored flats for a look that’s sure to be noticed.


man of style

ALL ABOUT AL

But fortunately, when we had Superstorm Sandy and the Oklahoma tornado and those types of severe events, we were pretty much right on target. As our computer modeling improves, so does our accuracy.

How important are clothes in your life? What are your personal style preferences? I’d describe my style as fairly traditional: I don’t take major fashion risks; in fact, the biggest decision I had to make this season was cuffs or no cuffs on my pants. (I opted for no cuffs…) But what most distinguishes my style, I suppose, is that I’m not afraid to wear bold colors. I think it’s fun! For television, I like a tailored look. I used to be a basic blue blazer kind of guy, but as I’ve gotten older, I’ve evolved to more sophisticated Italian clothing. Zegna, Brioni and Kiton are among my favorite suit brands; sometimes I buy custom, sometimes off the rack. For weekends, I like The biggest decision to wear jeans or khakis I had to make this season with either a polo shirt or a classic woven shirt. was cuffs or no cuffs

on my pants.

Here’s what’s happening in Al Roker’s neck of the woods… By Karen Alberg Grossman What makes a great weatherman: accuracy or personality? Obviously it’s a combination of both, but accuracy is more critical than ever these days. With so many extreme weather events recently, getting it wrong can be life threatening. Of course, today’s improved technology enables more accurate forecasting. As for the personality part, whatever flavor you want, you can find it. Prefer a simple straightforward forecast, just the facts? You can find it! You want personality and showmanship, you can find that too. With so many TV channels, there’s a weatherman for every preference.

Is it fair to ask your accuracy percentage? It’s not a good question since I’m now forecasting over such a broad area. When I did local news in Cleveland or D.C. or Syracuse, it was easier because it was a clearly defined geography; now it’s the entire country.

(Lately, I’ve been buying checks.) I like easy comfortable sportswear and here, I’m less concerned about designer names.

Who are your fashion role models? Well Matt Lauer has definitely influenced my style since he always looks so perfect (probably because he worked at an upscale menswear store as a teenager…). If I had to pick a celebrity fashion role model, I’d say Daniel Craig and George Clooney. (But how likely am I to ever look like them?) Actually, a 75-year-old guy who I don’t even know became a fashion role model for me. I had spotted him at a fundraiser in Washington, D.C. wearing a fabulous black watch tartan dinner jacket; I asked him where he got it and he told me he bought it 40 years ago at the flagship Brooks Brothers store on Madison Avenue. So I went looking for that fabric and had a similar one made up for me by Zegna. I wore it to a red carpet

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assignment and got lots of compliments!

Do you have a good luck tie? Not really. But I’ve been wearing a lot of Brioni ties lately: I like the heft. Also Zegna and Drake’s…

What about the slimmer-fit clothing they’re showing these days: are you wearing it? Not so much. For me, it will take some getting used to. Once you’ve been overweight, you don’t want to be reminded of when everything was too tight…

meet this incredibly brave woman whose courage changed the course of history, for not just African Americans but for all Americans. And Charles Schultz because I too am an avid cartoonist and comic book fan; I’ve always been in awe of his talents. (I still sketch a bit but I’m not really pursuing it these days.) Who I’d most like to interview? Probably Obama. I’d ask him about his views on climate change.

Other passions? I love cooking and reading. My most recent culinary accomplishment was grilled Chilean sea bass with roasted Brussels spouts and quinoa. My most recent great read was Thomas Jefferson: The Art of Power by Jon Meacham.

Speaking of which, tell us about your new book. It came out in January; it’s called Never Goin’ Back: Winning the Weight-loss Battle for Good. It’s simply the story of my personal journey with weight loss. I think there’s a lot of good stuff that might help people along their own journeys, but it’s definitely not a “how-to” book…

What are you most proud of? Hanging in there: I’ve been working for the same company (NBC) for 30-plus years. And of course my three children: my 26year-old Courtney is a chef in New York City; Leila (14) is studying performing arts; my son Nicky (10) is a master in Tae Kwon Do. I would have thought you’d be most proud of your unique ability to connect with people... I don’t know that it’s such a special talent: I simply treat people the way I’d want to be treated. It’s how my parents raised us, and it’s the lesson I’d most like to teach my children. And while we joke around a lot on the Today show, it’s especially important that we’re never laughing at somebody, only with them.

“If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up.”

What advice would you give to someone wanting to lose weight who has not yet begun the journey? I don’t believe in giving advice on weight loss since it’s got to come from within. For me, it literally took seeing my dad on his death bed and promising him I’d change my life… Everyone gets to that point eventually, but no amount of lecturing will do it. Look at Governor Christie — he has young kids and a young wife and after all these years he finally made the decision to take control of his future… No one could have persuaded him. So that’s the advice I’d give people: do it for yourself, not for anyone else. If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up. Because guess what: we know we’re fat! We don’t live in a world without mirrors…

Who was your best interview ever and who would you like to interview next? My two favorites so far were Rosa Parks and Charles Schultz: Rosa because it was just such an honor to

Who is your personal hero? Probably New York’s Cardinal Dolan. I was raised Catholic (my mom was a devout Catholic, I lean toward Catholic Lite) but with Dolan, it’s less about his religion and more about his humility, his humanity, how readily he can talk about his own failings (e.g. losing weight!). I’ve never officially interviewed him but we spent time together in Rome for the installation of the new Pope, and we’ve had dinner a number of times. He’s a straight shooter and a pretty tolerant fellow; I truly admire him.

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LAFAYETTE148NY.COM


profile

How would you define Milanese style, and will American men relate to it? Top U.S. retailers first came to our shop in Milan to discover that Milanese ‘edge,’ which I describe as a combination of top-quality production and unexpected design details. Milanese style is understated. Men who buy expensive clothing understand the investment value and that quality always, always trumps quantity. Of course American men will relate to this, particularly the special pieces that become favorites in a man’s wardrobe. How have you grown your business internationally? Bottom line, we don’t sell clothes: we sell a culture, a history that spans over millennia. Once people experience Italy, especially Milano, in all its facets, they come to understand the aesthetics of so-called Milanese design. Our customers care about quality, luxury and history; they are not about impulse buying.

DISCREETLY DORIANI

A top Italian menswear brand arrives in the States, epitomizing the subtle sophistication of Milanese style. By Karen Alberg Grossman s anyone who has been there will tell you, Milanese men have a style all their own. Without much fanfare or flash, they command attention in even the simplest clothing. It’s about the luxurious fabrics, the close-to-body fit, the attention to detail (and unexpected details). It’s a look that emanates elegance and class, that appears unstudied but is in fact extremely precise in its nonchalance. Here, we speak with Doriani’s Gisberto Sassi about his third-generation clothing business (with stores in Italy’s most beautiful resorts from Portofino to Capri), and about what constitutes Milanese style.

How will that translate in the States? Ultimately I’d like to duplicate the formula we showcase in our Italian stores, where we sell, in small doses, everything (from suits to shoes) a man needs for his wardrobe. But this is a long-term goal. The U.S. market has always rewarded product innovators, so our focus for the next three to five years is to produce innovative items, especially cashmere knitwear. How would you describe your management style? I am a dreamer, but I dream in slow motion, with my feet always on the ground.

“MEN WHO BUY EXPENSIVE CLOTHING UNDERSTAND THE INVESTMENT VALUE AND THAT QUALITY ALWAYS, ALWAYS TRUMPS QUANTITY.” — GISBERTO SASSI, DORIANI 46


T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R S


designers

TALKING TO THE TALENT

Get to know your favorite designers. By Jillian LaRochelle

WHAT DO YOU NOTICE MEN DOING WRONG IN THE WAY THEY DRESS?

Eton’s Sebastian Dollinger: Some guys tend to buy the wrong size. In the U.S., the most common mistake seems to be that people buy things way too big. In Scandinavia, on the other hand, it’s generally a case of things being too tight. Gianluca Isaia: They take themselves too seriously. You must feel confident in your clothing without trying too hard to impress anyone else. Robert Graham’s Robert Stock: They don’t know how to put a jacket on properly. You have to put it on and straighten it out. It’s always hanging crooked on the shoulders or not laying flat across the chest. John Varvatos: They think too hard about the uniform and not creating their own personal style.

WHICH NEW ITEMS SHOULD A MAN PURCHASE TO UPDATE HIS WARDROBE THIS SEASON?

Brunello Cucinelli: Men don’t take enough time in the morning to get ready. When men prepare for the day, they should ask themselves what they’re feeling that day, with whom they’re meeting, what they’re planning to do. Men should pay more attention to the clothes they put on each day. The extra 20 minutes will speak volumes about the person they want to be that day.

Brunello Cucinelli BC: This fall, every man should own the Milano jacket, an ultra-light nylon style that he

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ROBERT GRAHAM SWEATER, JOHN VARVATOS BOOTS

Sebastian Dollinger


can easily layer underneath his sportcoat, or over it, depending on the look and the occasion. SD: Invest in a good pair of shoes for rougher weather and a new crisp white shirt. GI: One of my favorites this season is the Cortina double-faced wool overcoat. It mixes classic sartorial details with contemporary elements. Also, the printed Donegal jacket has a very unique look. The fabric uses the latest in printing technology, and it comes with our signature sunglass pocket, measured to the exact dimensions of the original military-issued aviator. RS: Don’t underestimate the importance of socks; add a few fun pairs to your wardrobe. Sweaters are also making a comeback. JV: A suede jacket and a great pair of boots.

WHAT’S YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE?

WHAT’S YOUR GO-TO OUTFIT FOR A FESTIVE HOLIDAY GATHERING? Gianluca Isaia BC: I have five fixes, which I suppose you could call guilty pleasures: cashmere, cognac, chocolate, cigars and Champagne. SD: I buy shoes and coats that cost more than small cars… GI: Cannot tell you...my secret vice is a secret! RS: I’m addicted to the New York Rangers. I’m amazed by how hard the puck is and that it zooms toward them at 120 miles an hour. JV: Collecting vinyl, especially vintage vinyl records.

WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING IF YOU WEREN’T A DESIGNER? BC: I love my work and I have always desired to do this. SD: I want to run my own hotel one day. The ideal location would be in a forest by a lake. GI: I would love to be a small luxury hotel keeper. RS: I would probably be a psychiatrist. I feel like I’m always giving my employees therapy anyway! Or I would have loved to be a drummer. JV: I love architecture, and of course my real passion

50

ETON SHIRT

BC: I love wearing our gray cashmere 1.5-breasted tuxedo for a special event. This has become my signature and I love the way it makes me feel: formal enough for a holiday gathering, but it’s comfortable enough to wear every day. SD: My brown leather boots, washed out jeans, and one of our denim shirts. That’s it. GI: Isaia denim with a tuxedo jacket. RS: A few years ago we made a jacket called the Maharaja, embroidered with 25,000 miles of silk thread. Worn with jeans and velvet slippers, it’s perfect for a party. JV: A timeless black tux jacket with a white formal shirt, a scarf and jeans.


would have been to be a musician.

WHAT WOULD IT SURPRISE PEOPLE TO LEARN ABOUT YOU?

one place I cannot resist for a getaway. SD: Esalen in Big Sur, CA. GI: Capri. RS: I love the Caribbean Islands, I love Italy, I always have a great time in Asia… Since I can recharge in only a day or two, I love spending a few days in a lot of different places all over the world. JV: The island of Mustique.

WHAT’S A QUOTE YOU LIVE BY?

John Varvatos SD: I studied particle physics. GI: Maybe that I like to read mindfulness books, or that in the summer, I wear sandals, handmade in Capri, to make my suits a little less dramatic. RS: I’m hardworking but I really need my downtime. When I was younger I was into all kinds of Zen meditation, so I’m extremely capable of just unplugging and ignoring everything. JV: I’m pretty laid back and a bit shy.

WHERE DO YOU GO TO ESCAPE?

BC: I’m inspired by the fascinating St. Benedict, who advised the abbot responsible for his monks to be both rigorous and gentle, a demanding master and a kind father. SD: Live now! GI: It is not possible to buy great style. Every man must create his own. RS: I’d just like people to say about me, “He was a good guy.” JV: It’s only rock’n roll, but I love it!

BC: I like very much to stay at home with my family and my wife, but if I have to plan a trip, I love going to the mountains, especially to the Dolomites in the north of Italy. There you can find beautiful landscapes and nature lives all around you. In the summer, I love Isola di Cavallo, a small island between Corsica and Sardinia. I stay at the Hôtel and Spa Des Pêcheurs. This is

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ISAIA CORTINA COAT, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MILANO JACKET

Robert Stock


Maximize your investment in a classic cashmere suit with simple sartorial updates for any occasion.

1 SUIT. 7 WAYS. EXPLORE YOUR OPTIONS. Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson


1

SPORTY STYLE

REPLACE YOUR SUIT JACKET WITH A LEATHER MOTO STYLE TO ROCK YOUR WORKDAY (OR WEEKEND).

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VINTAGE PREP

BRIGHTEN A GRAY OUTLOOK WITH A KNIT TIE & COLORFUL PLAID SPORTCOAT. LO0KING GOOD!


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CASUAL COOL

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CHECK YOURSELF

TRADITIONAL WITH A TWIST: THIS WORN WITH DARK DENIM, A STRIPED SPORT SHIRT & SNEAKERS GIVE SHIRT & TIE PAIRING BRINGS YOUR BASIC SUIT TO A MORE CREATIVE SPACE. YOUR JACKET A LEISURELY LOOK.


MODEL: LEANDRO SOUZA, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILORING: JASON SANTIAGO. RING: PROPOSITION LOVE. WATCHES: TAG HEUER, PANERAI, BREITLING

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LAYERED LUXE

WHEN THE TEMPERATURE COOLS, ADD LAYERS IN FALL’S WARMEST SHADES.

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PATTERN PLAY

DON’T FALL FLAT: GRAPHIC CHECKS PROVIDE A SUBTLE CONTRAST AGAINST SOLID TROUSERS.


style

ON THE RISE

Clockwise from top: Kerry Rhodes, Tahj Mowry, Adam Huss

Three up-and-coming stars talk clothes and cars. By Kelli Freeman way. I love boots, especially a pair of low-top distressed boots my father calls Oliver Twist style. Kerry Rhodes: My style depends on my mood. Generally I’m a clean-cut, tailored kind of guy. It feels great when something fits you well, straight and narrow. I wear custom-made suits to my games.

How would you describe your personal style?

You’re all really into cars. Tell us about your favorites.

Adam Huss: I’m not a big shopper, but I love clothing. My style icons are Johnny Depp and Ryan Gosling, and I’d say my taste is a mix of hip-hop, funk and grunge. I prefer a layered look, dressier denim, and old-school leather with a soft hand. Tahj Mowry: Number one: Don’t copy someone else’s style. Number two: Be comfortable and confident in what you wear and you’ll carry yourself that

Huss: I like a simple car that I can rely on, like my new Volkswagen Jetta. But there’s nothing like an old classic. A red Mercedes 560 SL: now that’s a ride you can go road-tripping in! Mowry: I have a white Audi S5 (which is faster than the A5). I love the blood-red leather seats and carbon fiber interior accents. This car gets me in trouble because it’s so fast and it distracts other drivers.

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HUSS IMAGE BY MEAGEN MINNAUGH, HAIR BY CARLOS RODRIQUEZ

he scent of a brand new ride, a leather jacket or a good cigar can conjure up a feeling of success and satisfaction. Listen in as Forum chats with three talented men about to make it big. They’re all on different paths, but share a passion for fashion and the need for speed.


It sounds like you guys appreciate the finer things in life. What do you do to give back? Huss: I support any charity working to find a cure for cancer, especially leukemia. Mowry: I support The Thirst Project, which builds wells and provides clean drinking water to villages in Africa. Rhodes: I wanted to give back to the community and the people who helped me along the way, so I created The Rhodes Foundation to support educational and financial advancement for kids in underserved high schools.

What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you? Huss: I am a nerd! I love comic books and super heroes (and want to be one). Mowry: That I’m a super reality TV fan! I love The Bachelor and The Bachelorette franchise and The Colony on the Discovery Channel. Rhodes: I’m actually a better basketball player than a football player.

TRENDS THEY’RE INTO

FALL ’13 SHOPPING LIST

• boots • color • layering • slim-fit sport shirts • taking risks

• cashmere hoodie • fitted leather jacket • perfectly tailored suit • sharp dress shoes • sleek high-tops

Actor Adam Huss has appeared in NCIS: Los Angeles, CSI: NY and films like Resurrection County and Is It Just Me? Next, Huss stars in the feature film Find Me, which he also associate produced. He caught the acting bug at a young age: “I come from a big family. When we’d get together, I’d write a script, bring my cousins in and we’d act it out.” His passion is to tell compelling stories that invoke deep thought and feelings from the audience. NFL safety Kerry Rhodes was first drafted by the New York Jets in 2005. He was traded to the Arizona Cardinals in 2010, and will wrap up his NFL career this season. Rhodes’ philosophy about life and ‘The Game’ are one and the same: “Be smarter than your opponent. Be prepared for anything and you’ll be successful. Do the hard work, study.” With his new production company, The Come Back Kids, Rhodes hopes to transition from sports to the silver screen. “I just completed my first documentary about athletes and their inability to handle stardom or manage their money. I minored in theater, so I can see myself behind the scenes.” Tahj Mowry grew up guest starring on Full House, Friends, Sister, Sister and Who’s the Boss? before landing his own Disney sitcom, Smart Guy. He’s been a working actor since the age of four and is just coming off his second season of filming the ABC Family sitcom Baby Daddy. How does someone who’s worked through his childhood find work/life balance? “Acting is a job. I love it, but it’s not all of who I am. You have to separate it from yourself and live your life without letting your career consume you.”

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HUSS IMAGE BY CARREL AUGUSTUS, HAIR BY CARLOS RODRIQUEZ. RHODES IMAGE BY MARCEL INDIK. MOWRY IMAGE COPYRIGHT 2012 DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

My next car may be a Mercedes-Benz G-Class, but I’m still an Audi guy! Rhodes: Cars are your babies! My favorite vehicle is my Range Rover, the first purchase I made once I got into the league. I get a new one every year. My second car is the first four-door Aston Martin Rapide in metallic gray, and one of the sexiest cars I’ve ever seen. I love it. My third car is a matte black BMW M3.


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HOUSE

OFSTYLE

HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY

STYLING: WENDY MCNETT


MODEL: PETER ARGUE @ WILHEMINA. SPECIAL THANKS: WILLIAM BUCKLEY, MICHAEL & DONNA FRIEDMAN.


YOUR GUIDE T O MODERN OUTERWEAR

Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson

Don’t be afraid to mix textures, colors and patterns.

THE FALL GUY Outerwear classics get a modern update with new treatments and details.

A pocket square adds pop.


The lined lightweight material takes you through changing seasons.

Casual Luxury WITH FITTED SILHOUETTES AND LUXE DETAILS, THESE PIECES PULL DOUBLE DUTY FOR WORK AND WEEKEND.


Distressed fabrics look great with jeans. Wide lapels define shoulders. Donegal fabric is dressy but cool.

Double-Breasted

GO DRESSY OR CASUAL WITH THESE SIMPLE TIPS.

A nippedin waist keeps the look sleek.

MODELS: JONATHAN RILEY, MITCH FERRIN, CEDRIC @ FORD; LEANDRO SOUZA @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO.

Keep the length short for a modern take on casual.


Vests

PERFECT WITH YOUR FAVORITE SWEATER AND CHINOS, THEY PAIR JUST AS WELL WITH A SPORTCOAT AND TIE.


world scene

OPULENT ADVENTURES

S

ail off on luxurious explorations of two of the world’s most exotic locations: the Amazon River in Peru and Vietnam’s Mekong River. Aqua Expeditions offers three, four, or seven-day cruises on these two intriguing rivers, providing the opportunity for a variety of fascinating experiences, from visiting historic sites to piranha fishing. And they do it in great style. For the Amazon cruises, Aqua Expeditions provides either the 130-foot-long M/V Aqua, or the 147-foot M/V Aria. Both custom-built ships have airconditioned suites featuring sitting areas and picture windows with panoramic views. The M/V Aqua can accommodate 24 guests in 12 suites while the Aria has 16 suites with room for 32 guests, plus additional amenities such as an exercise room and an outdoor hot tub. Launching in 2014, the M/V Aqua Mekong is an extraordinary architectdesigned ship with a spa, screening room, outdoor pool and 20 guest suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, all offering magnificent views of Vietnam and Cambodia.

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

KEEP ON DANCING

S

IMAGE BY PAUL B. GOODE. FEATURED DANCERS LAURA HALZACK AND MICHAEL TRUSNOVEC

ince 1954, the innovative and sometimes controversial modern dance choreographer Paul Taylor has created 138 dances exploring a range of topics: life and death, love and sexuality, iconic moments in American history. These are set to music as diverse as medieval masses, baroque concertos, classical symphonies, Tin Pan Alley, and The Mamas and The Papas. Every season for the past 60 years the Paul Taylor Dance Company has toured the world, performing in over 500 cities in 62 countries. What better way to celebrate the diamond jubilee of this legendary company than by taking to the road again? In 2014, Paul Taylor will be presenting modern dance across America, from New York to San Francisco.

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OMMMMM

A

s the year winds down, take a few days and disappear to Ananda in the Himalayas, a restored viceroy’s palace with a destination spa that focuses on India’s ancient arts of yoga, meditation and ayurveda. The new you is orchestrated by a team of qualified nutritionists, western and ayurvedic physicians, and spa therapists who create programs to meet individual goals. Concentrate on destressing, detox and cleansing, relaxation, anti-aging or weight and inch loss, all in a 24,000 square-foot facility with 24 treatment rooms, hydrotherapy facilities, a Beauty Institute, outdoor heated swimming pool, sauna, steam rooms and a fully equipped fitness center. Fortunately, your stay doesn’t have to be all exercise and dieting. Between treatments, you can play golf, go white river rafting, or enjoy an elephant photo safari.

GRAND ITALIAN GROUNDS

A

ldo Filicori and Luigi Zecchini founded Filicori Zecchini coffee in Bologna in 1919. After nearly a century, the company is still guided by the founders’ families and remains loyal to a philosophy that merges artisan passion and technological innovation. Together, the careful selection of the highest quality green coffee and the specific roasting process produce the particular aroma and flavor that makes Filicori Zecchini so impressive. So much so that many of the company’s coffees have earned the Italian Espresso National Institute’s certification, a designation reserved for only the best blends. Available in over 30 countries around the world, Filicori Zecchini coffee has just recently reached American shores. Buongiorno tutti!

LET IT BEE

T

here was a lot of buzz when bees recently checked into the InterContinental Hotels in Boston and New York. Yes, that’s right, bees. In keeping with the environmentally responsible trend among luxury hotels, the InterContinental’s green initiatives include the use of energy-efficient lighting, water conservation and recycling programs throughout the properties. On the roofs of these hotels, along with an herb garden, there will also be apiaries, attended by a traveling apiculturist (one who raises bees for honey). The hives are expected to produce 20 to 30 pounds of honey per year, which the hotels plan to bottle for gifts and amenities, use in cocktails and on special Honey Menus. Comb through the chef’s latest creations, including honeylacquered duck leg confit and honey almond madelines.

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tech

“When people see themselves for the first time on video, they generally think about quitting golf,” laughs Chuck Quinton, founder of RotarySwing.com, an online instruction site. “But you can’t make a change without realizing exactly what you’re doing wrong. That may seem incredibly obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t know what their swing looks like.” Golf analysis took a huge leap forward in the mid-’90s, Quinton says, when cameras capable of capturing high-speed athletics became smaller and more affordable than the TV-sized cameras previously required. Improved camera technology, combined with analysis software that previously cost thousands of dollars but which is available today from a $5 app, means instructors can now measure just about everything and qualify cause and

IN FULL SWING

Virtual data can help improve your physical game. By Christian Chensvold t a press conference following this year’s Masters Tournament, Tiger Woods was asked what he thought of 14-year-old golf phenom Tianling Guan. He credited golf apps that use high-speed video analysis for the success of today’s prodigies, who’ve grown up with laptops and smart phones as integral pieces of golf equipment. They’re accustomed to filming themselves, and more important, they’ve learned to analyze what they see. Whether it’s Konica Minolta’s SwingVision camera, which can break down Tiger’s swing into 18,000frames-per-second slow motion on your TV screen, or a grainy cell phone clip of a high handicapper struggling to improve, technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing. But how many golfers are brave enough to uncover the naked truth of their faulty swings?

Technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing.

effect in a student’s faulty swing. The most important thing video analysis reveals, says Quinton, is a golfer’s impact position: golf’s so-called moment of truth. The number of faults that can lead to a poor impact position are myriad, and are all revealed under the ‘CAT-scan’ of golf analysis software. For a membership fee, RotarySwing.com lets golfers upload biweekly video clips for analysis by instructors, who write up what they’re seeing and suggest drills and changes. The workload, Quinton says, is bordering on overwhelming. His staff of 25 certified instructors shares the duties, with one full-timer devoted entirely to swing reviews. Most of RotarySwing.com’s students use the golf app by V1, which founder Chris Hart says is an indispensable tool in a golfer’s perennial struggle to keep his sanity. V1 costs a mere $4.99 and uses a smart

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FALL 2013 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.速


phone’s camera to record golf swings, which can then be analyzed with software that measures body angles and compares clips of good and bad shots side by side, all of which users can store in a virtual ‘locker room.’ Clips can also be uploaded directly to coaches for professional analysis (cost varies). The company is currently working on score tracking and shot analysis features that will allow golfers to hit a bucket at the range and get a full set of data on where their shots went, a far more reliable means of ball flight tendencies than short-term memory. This will be combined with a golfer’s performance during their rounds of play. “There’s what you do on the range and what you do on the course,” says Hart, “and we want to have it all in one spot from which you can get feedback.” That’s right: you’ll soon have a convenient portable database with stats on all your slices, shanks and missed two-foot putts. While apps are cheap and convenient, nothing compares to today’s indoor golf simulators, which combine virtual play on famous courses such as Pebble Beach with advanced analysis software and multiple camera angles. XGolf’s top-of-the-line laser-based system goes for about $65,000. About half of sales are to indoor golf facilities, the other half to private homes. The simulator allows users to get side-by-side swing comparisons with clips of their favorite pros. And a feature called On Course Training makes lessons more engaging. “A student practicing 96-yard wedge shots can have it set up as an approach shot on a specific hole at Pebble Beach,” explains XGolf’s manager of sales and business development Ryan D’Arcy. “They can see the results as the ball lands on

different parts of the virtual green.” As with any other piece of technology, there are upsides and downsides. In golf there’s a common issue called ‘paralysis by analysis,’ the point at which the golfer has so many technical thoughts in his mind he can no longer trust his swing to the part of the subconscious that controls muscle movement. Obsessing over angles and positions on your smart phone at the range can be as bad as texting at the dinner table. “Once you begin to leverage video analysis, you have to learn when to close the door,” says Quinton. “Every golfer goes through paralysis by analysis at one time

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING VIDEO ANALYSIS REVEALS IS A GOLFER’S IMPACT POSITION: GOLF’S SO-CALLED MOMENT OF TRUTH. or another, and you need to be your own doctor and recognize the symptoms. [Relying on] video analysis can be a very slippery slope if you’re not careful.” In the same press conference in which he mentioned how much technology is helping the next generation of golfers, Tiger Woods talked about visiting Korea, where indoor golf simulators are extremely popular. New players hit on them exclusively and religiously for six to 12 months, he said, then head outdoors “and have perfect golf swings.” They all look the same, he noted, but maybe sameness is a fair trade-off for perfection.

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end page

yourself; it’s generally better to be overdressed than underdressed and these days, a slim suit scores extra points. 7. Acquire the taste for a good cocktail, straight up. It’s cool to order and enjoy a classic — Manhattan, Rob Roy, Martini, Negroni, etc. — when you’re out on the town. (When in New York, do it at the King Cole Bar in the St. Regis Hotel.) 6. Suggest that your significant other also cultivate a favorite drink to enjoy before dinner. I love it when a lady replies promptly to a bartender’s request for her order. A confident response is sexy. 5. Red wine should be stored and served cool; experts suggest 57 degrees, not room temperature. However, it should be opened and set on the table about 15 minutes before you plan to enjoy it, so it can breathe and warm up just slightly. (Good restaurants know this.) 4. Never let your cologne precede your presence, especially in a restaurant, where fragrance and food smells are not a great combination.

RESTAURANT RULES

Stuff men should know (but probably don’t…) By Frank Schipani hen it comes to certain gentlemanly topics, including dress codes, a generation gap can often impede credibility. Receiving fashion advice from gray-haired guys in suits is not necessarily what young men crave, even if it’s what they need. That said, when it comes to wining, dining and women, experience counts. Here, the top 10 time-tested tips that are bound to score. 10. Always give the lady a facing-out seat (her back against the wall) in a restarant. A woman quite literally ‘dresses’ the room; she should have the observing seat to see and be seen. 9. Turn off your digital devices before entering a restaurant. You’re there to share an experience, not to worry about missed messages. (What could be more insulting?) 8. Always dress in a modern manner no matter where you’re going. Your appearance is how you represent

3. When making any kind of reservation, always note the name of the person you spoke to and the time you called. (Stuff happens; you may arrive only to have someone say “I don’t see your name here…”) 2. Better still, develop a relationship with the manager of a go-to place where you can get in on short notice. All popular restaurants say “We have nothing open but 5:00 or 10:00!” Fact is, they always save a table or two during prime time that they can easily give to loyal clients at the last minute. (If they know and like you, they’ll act like you had an actual reservation and simply make another party wait a little longer.) 1. Tired of dining out or ready for something more intimate? In addition to throwing steaks on the grill, learn how to make at least one dish for the stovetop or oven. May I suggest a basic tomato sauce for your pasta course? Buon appetito!

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When it comes to wining, dining and women, experience counts.


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