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24 1/2 Things to do in town + Waikiki Legends

Randall Paulson Photo: Baeseman


BARRON MAMIYA/PHOTO SUITT


C H I P PA W I L S O N

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We race from work, battle through traffic, search for parking, sit in crowded lineups and wait for hours to find that one wave, only to backdoor the closeout on the right at Kewalo’s. But this is our town. And we love it. Welcome to the original surf city. Photo Baeseman


Editors Note

JMack

M a t t L u t t r e ll


Summertime for Oahu surfers means one thing, town swells. While it’s great that we have longer days and school is out, what gets us stoked are Southern Hemisphere swells lighting up Town’s reefs. Yet we’re halfway through summer and it feels like there has been a wave drought. Sure, we got that nice 4th of July swell, but for the most part, summer has been pretty wave starved in town. Luckily the North Shore provided some summer solace, delivering a couple out of season June swells to keep the surfers of Oahu stoked. For this issue, the FreeSurf team caught up with four of town’s biggest legends. Rabbit Kekai, Ben Aipa, Mark Liddell and Buttons Kaluhiokalani were gracious enough to talk story with us. Not only are these living legends full of amazing stories, each of these surfers are still just as stoked on surfing as when they first started. Since summertime waves are never a sure thing, the crew at FreeSurf came up with 24 1/2 things to do this summer. This guide is by no means an exhaustive list for fun this summer, but we hope it will get you headed in the right direction. Finally, we want to congratulate Justin Mack for winning the first FreeSurf Magazine Instagram photo contest! This epic shot of a perfect Ala Moana grinder makes a pretty decent editor’s note photo, eh? Enjoy the rest of summer freesurfers!


Ryan T Foley

Cover Story

Randall Paulson wins Arnette Cash Pot Series at Ala Moana Bowls His name is Randall Paulson. And his domination at Bowls this past July will live forever. His name IS Randal Paulson. Not only did this renown Pipe warrior score the cover of the August issue of FreeSurf, Mr. Paulson also scored his 1st contest victory at Ala Moana Bowls. Negotiating through a talented field of frothing pros and locals alike, Randall finally cemented his reputation for radical south shore ripping by winning the Arnette Cash Pot at Ala Moana Bowls. With an entry format similar to a non-union cattle call for a major motion picture, EAGER surfers from all over the Hawaiian Islands were anxious to take advantage of the free entry PRO-AM format. From heavy hitters like Joel Centeio, Billy Kemper, Jason Shibata, and Roy Powers to young bucks like Kaoli Kahoukuloa, Kekoa Cazimero, Isaiah Moniz, and Casey Brown, there was a diverse mix of talented shredders all eager to surf perfect Bowls with just a few guys out. All day long Ala Mo offered up the lucky contestants perfect 2 to 4 foot walls breaking across the middle bowl. And there is no one who appreciates excellent bowls more then, who? Yes, I’ll say it again‌ His name is Randall Paulson! Congrats Randall on the well deserved win. - Chris Latronic


24 1/2 Things To Do in Town Yes...24 and a half

Divine

Volume 9 + Number 8

Gilley / A-Frame

Heff

Table of Contents

24

18

News & Events All the latest

20

Grom Report Kaiser Auberlin

66

Hawaii Dominates NSSA Nationals Cheee!

54

Legends Aipa, Buttons, Liddell & Rabbit

38

Heff

22

Replenishing Waikiki The dredging effort

Aperture Seasonal Optical Stimuli

68

Cora Sanchez Community

70

One Drop Mahina Chillingsworth

80

Grom Report Kaiser Auberlen


BRODI SALE

Hawaii’s Biggest and Best Selection of Surf Gear KONA

Photo: Michael Perry

Viper Model by Eric Arakawa: 4’5” X 15.2” X 1.75”

Ala Moana Center

808-973-6780 www.hicsurf.com


V 9N8 AUG US T E d i t o r i a l Publisher : Mike Latronic Managing Editor : Matt Luttrell Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Photo Editor : Tony Heff Art Director : John Weaver Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Copy Editor : Lauren Shanahan Free Thinkers : Casey Butler, James Stone, Jordon Cooper SeniorPhotographer : Eric Baeseman

C o n t r i b u t i n g

P h o t o g r a p h e r s

Nathan Adams, Erik Aeder, Kirk Lee Aeder, Jamie Ballenger, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Chris Burkard, Tom Carey, Vince Cavataio, Kanoa Dahlin, Hilton Dawe, Quincy Dein, Patrick Devault, Jeff Divine, Willi Edwards, Grant Ellis, Paul Fisher, Isaac Frazer, Pete Frieden, Jeff Hall, Noah Hamilton, John Helper, Dave Homcy, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Ric Larsen, Tracy Kraft Leboe, Bruno Lemos, Sue Li. Mana, Mike McGinnis, Allen Mozo, Zak Noyle, Carol Oliva, Tom Sanders, Kaz Sano, Epes Sargent, Bobby Schutz, Jason Shibata, Batel Shimi, Pake Salmon, Pat Stacy, Vince Street, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Steve Thrailkill, JP VanSwae, Jessica Wertheim, Jimmy Wilson.

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N e w s & E v en t s

Heff

Duke’s Ocean Fest

Oakley Surf Shop Challenge Presented by Surfer Team Town & Country took out the Hawaii Regionals of the Oakley Surf Shop Challenge this past month. Held at Ala Moana Bowls in perfect overhead surf, Team Town & Country reclaimed the top spot for Hawaii’s surf shops. Kekoa Bacalsco, Dustin Cuizon, Geoff Wong and Travis Hashimoto will now be headed to Bali to compete against the other 6 regional winners to crown a new national champion. Good luck Team Town & Country!

Hank Gaskell Hana ripper Hank Gaskell just recently won the Copa Quiksilver El Salvador, a 3-star rated ASP event. Held at El Salvador’s premier point break Punta Roca, Gaskell defeated good friend and fellow Hana boy Dege O’Connell in the finals. Congrats Hank!

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Heff

It’s that time of the year again when everyone heads down to Waikiki for the 11th Annual Duke’s OceanFest. This year’s festival will be run August 18th to the 26th. Honoring Duke Kahanamoku, the greatest Hawaiian waterman, the festival features 14 events, from surfing, swimming to beach volleyball. FreeSurf is honored to be the official production team for the 2012 event.


Chris Latronic

Rip Curl Grom Search

The Rip Curl GromSearch provided 88 surfers, all 16 or younger, the chance to surf perfect Kewalos with just a few other competitors. Held on July 8th, the Honolulu event was the second stop of the four stop series. Elijah Gates narrowly edged out Kaoli Kahokuloa in the under 16’s boys, while Tatiana Weston-Webb took out the under 16’s girls. Elijah Fox took out the under 14’s boys and Dylan Franzmann won the under 12’s boys. Top finishers willå be invited to compete at Lower Trestles this coming November.

Tanner Hendrickson

Tanner Hendrickson just took out the 4-Star Quiksilver Surf Open Acapulco to claim his biggest ASP victory. The 20-year-old Maui surfer displayed phenomenal surfing and a superb level of fitness in Mexico to defeat Australian Leigh Sedley in the final. Congratulations hombre!


Grom Report

What is a grom? For most of us the word conjures up visions of salty, stoked, little surf people. Look, and you will find them deep inside almost any lineup around the world. But what defines a grom? Some would say, it is any surfer under the age of 15. Others would say it’s a surfer weighing under 100 pounds soaking wet. And of course we all know one or two 50 year old guys that have never stopped acting like a grom. Those of us that have grown past being a grom can only hope that we still can remember what it once felt like to be surf starved and super stoked on the littlest achievements we get from the water. 7 year old Kaiser Auberlen recently caught our attention when we saw him braving 6 to 8 foot seas at Velzyland. Barely fitting into his wetsuit, and standing 4 inches shorter than his 4’ 1” surfboard, Kaiser epitomizes the essence of the word in question. And with his whole life ahead of him, his potential is as vast as the ocean beneath his board. Surf coach and professional surfer Pancho Sullivan agrees, “Kaiser has an amazing style at such a young age and incredible positioning on the wave. I love his charisma and positive attitude. I believe it shines through in his surfing”. When he’s not surfing, Kai likes to skateboard and practice Jiu Jitsu. Like any grom, Kai dreams of being a professional surfer when he grows up and getting to travel to Australia, which is his dream surf destination. Whether he’s surfing with his dad or his friends on the North Shore you can always pick out Kaiser, he’s the littlest one with the biggest smile.

411 Sponsors: Glenn Minami, DaKine, Filtrate Eyewear, North Shore Surf Shop Favorite Pro Surfer: John John Favorite Wave: Velzyland (Winter) and Kewalos (Summer) Favorite Band: Iron Maiden, Aerosmith, and TSOL Favorite Movie: James Bond , Dr. NO Favorite Post Session Grind: Wahoo’s

Heff

Kaiser Auberlen


Maui

Whalers Village, KaĘťanapali Front Street Lahaina Cannery Mall South Kihei Shops At Wailea

Big Island

Kona Inn Shopping Village Kings’ Shops Waikoloa

Oahu

Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani

Kauai

Poipu Shopping Village Anchor Cove


R e p l e n i s h i n g

Waikiki Heff

E n v ir o nmen t

In case you haven’t been in town lately, from late January to May 14th, sand was pumped in from 1,500 to 3,000 feet off the Waikiki shores by a hydraulic suction dredge barge, which was anchored into an opening in the reef. The sand was then piled high into a catch basin on the beach to dewater, dry out, and finally be leveled off into 1,730 feet of disintegrating shoreline. The project

caused inconveniences to Waikiki beach goers from 7:00am till noon seven days a week, not to mention an unsightly view of this iconic stretch of sand. But beyond appearances and nuisances, many locals had concerns about the impact of the $2.3 million dredging project. Tourists and locals alike interpreted the project in their own way, and I remember hearing some guy at Queen’s say he was certain that sand was being dredged all the way from New Zealand. Although completely untrue, surfers did have their concerns about the potential changes of Waikiki’s waves. Sam Lemmo, Administrator of the State Department of Natural Land & Resources (DLNR), says the surf community was neutral to the project, due to good planning on DLNR’s part. They covered their bases through extensive research and made sure to emphasize that the sand being dredged was recycled straight off the shores of Waikiki. Surfers still questioned if the amount of sand added to the beach would negatively affect surf spots, not to mention change the water depths, bottom configuration and beach shapes. There was also talk about burying sea creatures and reefs, creating rip currents, and causing murky waters. Valid reasons for concern. However, DLNR succeeded in making sure the project met all state and federal requirements for environmental quality control with NOAA- National Marine Fisheries and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Services, the State Department of Health, the Coastal Zone Management Program and various other city, state, and community businesses and organizations.


Cogsbah

DLNR, Honolulu City Council, Hawaii Tourism Authority, Kyo-Ya Hotels & Resorts, and the Waikiki Improvement Association, among others, were sponsors of the sand replenishment project. Their general statement was that Waikiki is largely a manmade beach, requiring maintenance to upkeep what makes it so desirable. Sand replenishment projects have happened in the past, with little or no surf related problems as a result. Should the project be overthrown, Waikiki beach as we know it will continue to diminish, reverting back into separate, distinct beaches (seven to be exact) instead of the one long, continuous stretch that is made possible by humans. Created by manmade jetties, these shoreline sections will erode until there is no beach left. With an average depletion rate of one foot per year, and at the speed that sand is being naturally produced, Waikiki is definitely not enhancing on its own.

Waikiki Beach Boy Sam Rodrigues says the only changes he’s seen are the different types of shells washing up on shore. Other than that, he says he’s waiting for summer to see if the waves will be negatively affected. Now that it’s summer, there really hasn’t been much of a change in the stretch of beach breaks along Waikiki. And with the Final Environmental Assessment finding no significant impact to the environment as of June 23, 2012, it appears the project was a success. The only evidence that the construction ever existed is the slight water color change from small amounts of calcite leeching out of the pumped sand. And in all honesty, we doubt you’ll notice it. Lemmo anticipates it settling back to normal colors by winter, with no changes made for better or for worse. There have been no environmental or health effects from the sand replenishment project, and summer swells continue to break on Waikiki’s famed reefs. So far, it looks like wave conditions in Waikiki are in the clear. Only time and nature will tell us otherwise. - Lauren Shanahan


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Things to do in Town this Summer

1

Do Waikiki Grab a spot on the beach, if you can find one. Take in the view, the scene, but remember, this land is still sacred. Photo: Erik Aeder


surfer: Gavin Beschen photo: Laserwolf

3

2 Lei the Duke Pay homage to Duke Kahanamoku. The father of surfing’s legacy is still alive and well deep in the heart of Waikiki. Stop by the bronzed replica of The Duke, and drape a Lei around the first man to represent surfing, and Aloha on the world’s stage.

26

Give Back Discover the meaning of Aloha and give your time to a local charity. The Maui Ola Foundation is one dear to our hearts as they share their love of surfing with kids that suffer from Cystic Fibrosis, a disease that’s symptoms are alleviated by being close to the ocean.


4

Longboard Queens Break out your big board and make your way down to Queens, surfing’s ground zero. Be prepared to share a wave or two, take it slow, and be respectful.

5

Jump off Walls I’m sure you’ve seen kids doing this at Waikiki Walls. Try it, if only just to see what all the fuss is about.


surfer: Eala Stewart photo: Heff

6 Get Barreled If you’re not from here, this will take some time and patience, but it can be done. On the right swell, and when the stars align, you can find yourself in a world class barrel at Ala Moana Bowls. Put in your time, and be ready to go.


7

Hike Diamond Head You’ll be breathing heavy, but it’s a nice, easy climb. Take in the amazing view from the volcano that blew it’s top over 150,000 years ago.

8

Crash a hotel pool Play tourist, order a beverage and take advantage of the amenities. Some hotels are stricter than others. Which one is for you to find out.


Heff

9 Bodysurf Point Panic Surfing is strictly prohibited here, and you’ll see why on your first ride. This wave was made for bodysurfing. The police, and the big Hawai’ian locals, keep it that way.

10

Friday Fireworks Every Friday evening, The Hilton Hawai’ian Village has a firework show. A little hint, this is best enjoyed from one of the many booze cruises that set sail in Waikiki.


Heff

11 Watch a surf contest Head over to Magic Island, Kewalo Basin, or Queens Beach. During summer you can expect there to be a contest at one of these spots nearly every weekend. Bring a tent, a chair, and your camera, and see firsthand how experts like Kekoa Bacalso surf Town.

12

See a movie on the beach Drive in theaters are hard to find these days. But in Town, you can walk right up to Waikiki Beach and watch a movie for free on a 30ft screen. Check listings before you head down, they don’t do this every night.


Heff


JMack

JMack

13 Get Womped at Sandys The shorebreak at Sandy Beach is notorious for handing out beatings. In fact, we’re pretty sure this is statistically the most dangerouse beach in Hawaii.Take caution, but don’t let this deter you, Sandys is as playful as she is dangerous.

14

Canoe Surf Get way back to the roots of surfing and ride an outrigger canoe. You’ll need a couple friends for this, and pick your wave wisely, a wipeout with a canoe can be ugly.


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18

19

Heff

Sue Li

15

16 Hike Manoa Falls

Go Parasail

Get out of the concrete jungle and trek to the back of Manoa Valley.

To be honest, we’ve never done this. But it’s on our list. Sort of.

Night Surf Full moon nights in Waikiki are magical. Grab a friend and a board, and let the city lights guide you. The lineup will look a little different, but mostly because you’ve never surfed Waikiki so uncrowded.

Discover a new species Fishing in the Ala Wai should be for research purposes only.

Happy Hour Plenty of places boast a great happy hour. We’ve checked most of them out, and the best deal with the best view is the Top of Waikiki. The scenery keeps changing at this revolving restaurant, which is also a great place to check the waves for your night surf session.


Baeseman

20 Go Tandem You may not be able to one arm press your tandem partner over your head like Brian Keaulana does, but you can still have a blast with a friend. Plus it’s a great way to introduce a new surfer to the thrill of riding waves.

21

Hydrate

22

Do First Friday

23

Tip a street performer

After all this running around, you’ll need to re-hydrate. Stop by Jamba Juice, and pick up a Freesurf Magazine.

Hit Chinatown for First Friday. Dress to impress and bring your walking shoes because bar hopping can go on all night.

There’s some great talent on the streets of Waikiki. And then, there’s the other guys. Tipping in Hawai’i, contrary to some beliefs, is accepted and encouraged.


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Throw a hotel party Honolulu is the gathering place. Gather your best friends and throw a rager in one of the many hotels along Waikiki strip.

Heff

Expand your horizons and get some exercise, Hawai’ian style.

Gilley / A-Frame

24

Paddle


aperture

The most stylish surfer in town, Ms. Kelia Moniz Photo: Heff


Town’s future World Title contender, Ezekiel Lau Photo: Heff


Kekoa Bacalso decided to skip out on a session at crowded Bowls to sample the hollow lefts at China Walls. Photo: Zak Noyle


This southern wave traveled hundreds of miles to meet this Big Island slab, and Torrey Meister was waiting for it. Photo: Zak Noyle


Ha’a Aikau is pretty easy to find. Just go to Ala Moana and look for this. Photo: Chris

Latronic

Fred Patacchia enjoying a late season swell at Rocky Point. Photo: Heff


2 page

Seth Moniz with the best view in town Photo: Zak Noyle

Derek Lyons Wolfe decides to take the highway home. Photo: Latronic


Nothing better than a random North swell in summer. Nalu Law enjoys the amenities at Turtle Bay. Photo: Rock


Josh Moniz getting barreled at his favorite secret spot on the South Shore. Photo: Tammy Moniz


Jonah Morgan turning an south shore lip inside out. Photo: Latronic


L e g e n d s Interviews by Matt Luttrell Photos by Jeff Divine

M a r k L i d d e ll B e n A i pa Buttons

Kaluhiokalani

RabBit Kekai

Mark Liddell My name is Mark Liddell. Raised in Waikiki, I have been surfing for about 45 years. From 1967 to now, and I am still stoked. I grew up mainly surfing Queens. Walls, Queens, Baby Queens and Canoes. Queens was a different wave back then. This was before they put all the new sand on the beach for tourists that keeps washing out to the lineup. Queens was a world class wave when I was a kid. My first memory of Waikiki would be surfing at the Waikiki Wall at a place called Graveyards. When I moved over to Waikiki, the first guy I ever met was Buttons Kaluhiokalani. And his younger brother Ricky Kaluhiokalani, they were locals at the Wall. Thats my first memory of Waikiki. Before they started putting sand on the beach for the tourists, Waikiki had a wall where they played checkers. That wall was straight up and down. But since they needed more beach for tourists to come to Waikiki to lay down, they started putting sand on the beach in I think the late ‘70s. And of course the tide comes up, goes out. Swells come and go. It all washes out to the lineup. So the wave


changed. And its not the same wave as it was before. And the beach, believe it or not, used to be bigger. Where is the sand going? Its going out to the shipwrecks they dumped outside of Canoes called the YO-257. It’s in about a 100 feet of water, and the sand is like a carpet covering the reef. When I was a kid, Waikiki was more of a local area. Rents were cheap. $25 a month I think. The Waikiki Jungle is where everyone sold drugs. Now Waikiki is more for the tourists. But it seems like it wants to revert back to its old self, because there is a lot of crime there now. In a way its better, but in a lot of ways its worse. My first magic surfboard. I’ve had a lot of good surfboards because I was kind of privileged I had a lot of great shapers. Rawson, Aipa, Brewer, Reno, but the first one I remember was with a young guy named Zoobadee, James Lau. He was a local shaper before the surf shop scene. It was a round pin, a little wider nose, excellent for Waikiki, glass on single fin, lot of rake, had gold rails. We called it the Gold Rail Board, cause it was gold. It was a great board. Buttons used to always take that board. Actually Buttons took that board, I let him use it while Zoob was teaching me to glass surfboards, and Buttons was surfing the board in a Waikiki contest that he won. I think that was the first moment I ever wanted to compete against him cause he won on my board. My first memory of Rabbit was total respect. He caught a lot of waves. He surfed everyday. For an older guy, he surfed a lot, like 3 times a day. And this was a time when Waikiki wasn’t that crowded and he caught his fair share of waves. Any wave he wanted to go, you didn’t want to go. It was HIS wave. Rabbit always had nice boards from Donald Takayama. There is a reef underneath Magic Island. Back in the day that was called Garbage Hole. I think the last person to surf it was Sparky. His name was Robert Scheufele. Great surfer. Great shaper. There used to be a group SOS. Save Our Surf. They were gonna build Magic Island all the way to Kewalo Basin and John Kelly (who formed SOS) stopped it. Recently Dr. John Jones hired someone to take a video of the reef under Magic Island. And it’s intact actually. So if they had any plans to remove the island, or move it back, that wave would probably still be there, so that is something to think about. The last time I saw Castles break was probably when I was younger. When I was younger I would see it break really long. All the way to probably Canoes Left. And that is a pretty far ride. The myth is true. I do believe Duke Kahanamoku caught a wave from Castles all the way to the Moana Surfrider. I’m sure Duke made it to the Moana. But last March, there was a pretty good sized South swell that came into Castles that was probably Hawaiian ten feet. Gerry Lopez was out there doing stand-up surfing. It’s a great wave, but it breaks rarely. Last good wave I caught was a few swells back when the wind was lighter at Turtles. About 4 to 5 Hawaiian, two guys out, three guys out, a monk seal, some turtles, thats why they call it Turtles. Yeah it was a good wave. A secret spot. What I contributed to surfing? Because I came from the Bertlemann school of surfing, I would have to say the power 360. I’m not saying I did it myself. I didn’t perfect it, but I was a part of it. But I would say the 360 because of the timing. Everything comes from someone else, and then you adapt, and then you put it on the map. On the ASP Tour we started doing them (me, Dane Kealoha, Larry Bertlemann and Buttons Kaluhiokalani), and then it got mainstream, even now.


Buttons Kaluhiokalani Interview by Chris Latronic My name is Buttons Kaluhiokalani and I am 54 years old. I’ve been surfing since I was 9, so I’m not good at math, so do the math. (laughs) My first memory of Waikiki is not as much hotels. We used to call it the Waikiki Jungle because there weren’t that many hotels and there were a lot of houses. That, and a lot of waves growing up as a kid in Waikiki. It was pretty interesting because it was more localized, a lot more locals there. A lot of the pro surfers, like Reno, lived up the street from me. It was different, and really cool growing up as a kid in Waikiki. Damn, are you kidding me? So much fun. I was a rascal brah, kolohe. Kolohe boy, that means rascal. First wave I grew up on was the Waikiki Wall. As a little boy, I taught myself how to swim. Because at the Wall, you could right on the

side of the wall, and I had half of a full board that I found in the rubbish can, so I pushed myself against the Wall and ride waves all the way to the beach. From there I got a wood board that a guy named Stone made for me back in the day. It was a paipo board with fins. And the fins had door hinges on them. It was old school. It was a twin fin. And I would ride the wave all the way from Graveyard at Waikiki Wall all the way across, all the way to the beach. And I had a big fro. It was pretty awesome brah, I remember those days. Then I went to Baby Queens, to Queens, to Populars, to Kaisers, to Bowls as I got older. My magic board I would have to say is a Pat Rawson, 5’8 single fin at Pupukea sandbar. Roping from fricking Pupukea all the way through Ehukai. That’s a long wave. That’s pretty sick. That board from Pat, that was my golden board. He made me a lot of golden boards. So did Aipa, but Pat to me was the guy that made that one board, a yellow 5’8. Oh my God if I could only find that board. That was the magic board, 5’8 Rawson v-bottom single fin. That thing killed it brah. I was like a Kelly Slater. It was a Local Motion board. I will never forget that board.

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My first memory of Rabbit Kekai, because I lived in Waikiki, he was a beach boy, him and his brother Jama, and he was a father to all of us young boys. We cut out from school to go out to Baby Queens and he would always go, “Buttons! Buttons! How come you not in school?” I would look at him and be, “Oh, Uncle, the waves good man!” (laughs) It was funny because he was huge, his brother was huge. I remember him telling me, “Buttons, get to school!” Then after a while he wouldn’t say nothing, he would tell me to come up, and he would kind of watch after me, and lead me on. He is an awesome man. Ben Aipa. Innovator. Shaper. Surfer. He was shaping our boards because of Bertlemann. He was a great surfer, great waterman, ripped for a big guy, and shaped me some magic boards. He’s the guy that pretty much got me in the magazines, surfing contests on his boards. And because of that, I used to watch Bertlemann at Bowls just rip, just annihilate. I can remember my first contest at the Haleiwa Open, some amateur contest and Bertlemann was out on this purple board. I was 15 and I went to the beach and I was just watching and I had a heat. I knew Ben, so I asked him, “Uncle Ben, think I could try Larry’s board in my heat?” He said, “Yeah,

sure. I don’t see why not.” So Bertlemann is looking at me like whose this kid. I’m like, “Come on Larry, please?” Okay, I went out and won the contest in the boys division. Ben picked us up and took us traveling around the United States and rode his boards for years. He pretty much put me on the map of surfing as a kid. Thank you Uncle Ben! Yes, I need one new board!” The first time I met Mark Liddell I was 11 or 12 already, and I surfed the Wall after hours. I remember paddling out and seeing Mark with a Reno Abelliro Chinese Slipper brah. I’m like, whose this guy brah. He had buck teeth, long hair, and he was surfing really good. I said howzit and I introduced myself. I go, “Where do you live?” He says, “I live on Ainakea Way.” I lived on Wainani Way and I go, “Oh wow, thats right where I live.” When we walked home, from my room I could see his house, and his room, right there. And from then on we became friends, and just surfed. We were best friends and did a lot. I love you Mark.

Buttons and Liddell circa late 70’s.

It was different, and really cool growing up as a kid in Waikiki. Damn, are you kidding me? So much fun. I was a rascal brah, kolohe.

Waikiki has changed. It’s more crowded. The waves, ocean and reef have changed in Waikiki. There are better surfers. Lot of good, good surfers that just rip. It’s still awesome. The waves get perfect. Bowls, Kaisers. We have a variety of surf spots on the south shore. But more crowds, more people. More surfers. More traffic. But still fun. My last great wave was last summer at Bowls when it was huge. I remember it closing out the whole channel. In fact that day I broke my board in three pieces and I almost drowned dude. Literally almost gave up. But that day was gnarly brah. The gnarliest I’ve ever ridden it, seen it. Well, I’ve seen it huge but I was young then. But this time around I got to surf it and got my butt kicked. That swell was huge. Most epic, gnarliest, drops and takeoffs. Literally in the air take offs and then landing them. I love that left brah. You know what’s so cool about it? It’s localized for one thing and we get waves. The boys. There’s just a little handful of guys that get waves. I’m fortunate.


Last summer Castles broke good. Gnarly. Big. Huge. Mountains. My friend was telling me that one big day that he was on his 9’0 gun and got punished. That wave is gnarly. Way out there. Even past Castles is Zeroes. Start from Zeroes to Castles and then all the way through, all the way to the Wall, you get waves. It’s not the same. Nothings the same. It was a longer wave. It was perfect because you caught it outside and it was one long wall, a left all the way through to Cunhas. Its changed for sure. Why? The reefs. Dying. Pollution. Sad but... we can fix it. It’s still a great wave, and not too many people know about it, or even go out there. My greatest contribution to surfing, well, when I was a kid growing up I used to do a bunch of crazy tricks, so I think that is a contribution because at that age people saw what I was doing and they followed what I was doing. Would that be an inspiration for someone? I’ve been surfing all my life, and now I have a surf school and I teach surfing, so that is my contribution. Teaching other people and having fun. Teaching the surf lifestyle. Giving back. Taking kids with cystic fibrosis out surfing. Working with Access Surf, taking quadriplegic and paraplegic people surfing. Taking kids with autism surfing. It’s something I like doing and it’s what I do best. I love what I do today. I still get to surf. I’m at the beach all day. I’m blessed. Totally blessed.


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Ben Aipa Hi, my name is Benjamin Ahina Aipa the 3rd. I am 70 years old. I’ve been surfing since 1963. And I think that was yesterday. (Laughs) My first wave that I caught was in Waikiki at a place called Baby Queens. And I didn’t plan on it. I just saw a board coming in and I hopped on it. The whitewater turned the board around and I stood up on it. And that’s how I started. I think a lot of people start surfing at Queens. When I got involved into surfing more I had to actually leave a regular job. And getting into this surfing thing, because I could be making some surfboards in the future. At that time there were young surfers that were around that I could see was going to be the change. I was fortunate enough to be involved with these young boys. Larry Bertlemann, Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Mark Liddell, and Dane Kealoha. Now these people weren’t even on the map outside of Hawaii until they got exposure. For Buttons and Mark, they got a cover shot on Surfer. So it sort of started this big, different type of surfing being generated in Hawaii. When I got serious about learning more about surfing, it was by accident. I got into a little problem with a guy and I told him I was gonna pass him in one year (in surfing ability). So for that year, I surfed 365 days. I was possessed by it, but I was also athletic coming off of playing semi-pro football. It opened up my thoughts on surfing maneuvers, like what they do on the football field, what they do on a tennis court, what they do on a basketball court, somehow there is gonna be a way in the future of surfing that I want to be involved in. And by being involved with this young group of surfers in Hawaii that they were so far ahead in a sense of maneuvering by the way they pressed the board from rail to rail and making moves the way they do now in 2012. When I got a little bit more involved in surfing after surfing 365 days straight I had a sweet board that I bought for about $95 at a department store called Wigwam. This surfboard opened up my surfing more because it was a new board. And when you get something new, you have abilities and skills in your body that all of sudden clicks with the board. And that was my first sweet board. It was made in Mexico. It was a popout. During that time they had Ten Toes, Ventura Surfboards, and they had these boards from Mexico. Waikiki has always been the same to me, the way the ocean comes into the reefs and forms waves and breaks. Even though the ocean floor can change, during different seasons sand shifts and the surf changes a little bit. Getting into surfing, you get to understand the angles and the tides of what generates the surf and that has been a big part of my life in surfing. Really knowing. Now knowing Waikiki its always been a beginners point. Always. And I think even today with all the surf lessons and thanks to all the tourists that come to Hawaii and spend their money, keeping Waikiki presentable. Protecting the surf with the sea

Getting into surfing, you get to understand the angles and the tides of what generates the surf and that has been a big part of my life in surfing. Really knowing.


walls and filling the sands when the sands are shifting, and today, once you are in the water, it’s a little different. If you look at the beach its not the same. But the surf is the same. That’s how I feel. Duke Kahanamoku has been a big part of my life. I sort of recognized him back in the ‘50s when I was competing as a swimmer. And of course everyone knew Duke Kahanamoku as an Olympian. As for knowing about him as a surfer, I wasn’t even surfing during that time. I never surfed until 3 years after graduating from high school. At the time Duke was already a little older and I think because of his status I got to know him a little bit more, other than the swimming part, and how much he really contributed to the world of surfing. To me, he was the father of modern day surfing. I was surfing Queens, and I wasn’t good at the time, and I was paddling for this wave, and before I stood up someone came sliding into me and bumped my rail and I fell off. All I saw when I fell off was a guy wearing football pants. I swam in, got my board, and paddled out looking for a guy with football pants, but no one was there. The next day I went down to the beach I asked, “who is the guy that surfs in football pants?” A local guy answered, “Rabbit.” I go, “I just asked you a question. Who surfs out here in football pants?” The guy said, “Rabbit.” So I ask the guy for the 3rd time, “I’m gonna ask you one last time, who surfs out here in football pants?” The guy says, “R A B B I T.” I say, “Who is Rabbit?” The guy tells me, “Rabbit Kekai.” So I went out looking for the guy in football pants but he wasn’t there. About 3 or 4 weeks later I finally saw him in the water and I paddled up to the guy and said, “Hey, you bumped my rail about a month ago.” The guy looked at me with a blank face, like he didn’t remember. But Rabbit was everything in Waikiki, canoe guy and all that. That’s how I met Rabbit. As the years went on, he became a part of my life. What Rabbit was doing was sort of like Duke in a way, not boasting about it, that was his way of life. Rabbit contributed a lot to the people who knew him, he taught them how to surf, he would sit around and talk. One year I was out at Sunset, and I was really scared and Rabbit was already out there. I was paddling out and Rabbit got taken over the falls. I watched and he never came up. I turned around and I was paddling, looking for the guy because I knew it was Rabbit. Then he popped up! Ho, my heart! I paddled over to him and go” Rabbit you okay?” He says, “Yeah.” I said, “Okay.” That was one frightening time. Castles the break, on the south side, by Diamond Head. There was a story, that was true, that one Hawaiian surfer, he caught a wave from Castles and came all the way across to Canoes. And that was Duke. And its not a tale, it’s true. People saw this, the old timer guys. And I tried it myself, to see if I could do that. It took me a couple of summers,


because we had to wait for the big swells. So I got one on a 10’4, on a gun board, I went all the way to Waikiki Wall, thats the farthest I went. I think for guys that try it, thats the farthest we go, because between the wall outside to Queens, there is a deep spot over there, and the only way you can go across is if the swell keeps going. I tried it a bunch of different years, never made it into Queens. I wanted to see if I could do it. It was really something you know. How many guys are trying that? My last great wave in town. They’re all great. If there is a great one there is a greater one. And there is a greater, greater, greater wave. My big thing is watching surfers surf this break that puts a big, big period on this one spot, Ala Moana Bowls. I still enjoy it even though I have a little back problem, I have to go right now a little bit, but once my back is good again, sorry guys, I’m gonna have to go left again. Knowing Buttons Kaluhiokalani during that time he was always on the beach, and he was the only Black Hawaiian. But he wasn’t labeled a Black Hawaiian. He was just somebody that was completely different, but in a way, common. The guy was always smiling. He was always kidding with guys. And he goes out and surfs and does things that wasn’t even in the book. The guy never had an enemy because he was so friendly. Me sharing his experience was a really good thing because I got to see what someone who had nothing had so much in him. And surfing brought it out a lot without him pushing it, with him just being there was unreal. What’s he gonna do? Still today. The guy is still buffed, and he’s still, to me, his approach to surfing, everything is still the same. Mark Liddell was always the right, or left arm, of Buttons. And those guys, they were a pair. If movies would just make movies of these guys, these guys would be unreal. Not actors, just being natural what they were doing. Not only that, they backed it up, with again, the change in surfing. These guys were just so far out there, but they didn’t push it. They were just in an area, in a time that was so far ahead. And watching Mark and Buttons, Mark was

the quiet one. He was always the smiling one. He was always the one counter joking with Buttons. But when the guy went in the water the guy was so fluid, so low, so carving, that’s what they (modern surfers) are doing now. People ask me a lot about how much have I accomplished in surfing. My answer all the time is if it wasn’t for the surfers, I wouldn’t be able to accomplish anything. The people made me do these things. They made me create these things. And I thank the people for really putting me out there. They put me out there. When I got involved more with the surfing of the new guys, the boards had to change, the fins had to change. By me getting into surfboard building I got to understand the curves, the numbers all that, but the thing had to be transformed so different going into this new type of surfing. I broke into something. I did a tail called a swallowtail. It made the point of turn much more sharp than a basic tail. Then of course you had to put a configured bottom, a lot of V, so there is a lot of release to it, because these guys were riding the fins so far forward. Then it went beyond that. I was watching this kid surfing at Lighthouse and something was missing. I went to the shop and drew the outline of his board and I accidentally dropped the template down, and it moved in, and I looked at and with my fingernail I made a mark. Hydrofoil. Water releases before the end of the tail. I milled on the blank, I threw these numbers on, and I tried to put the outline. I shaped the board, two days later I pick up this kid, took him to Diamond Head, and he went out to Lighthouse, and the guy was actually over doing what he was planning to do all the time, and that was the birth of the Sting. That was Larry Bertlemann. And as I was leaving, I told Larry I’d come pick him up later, and I was walking up the cliff when I looked back and Larry came out of this turn, went on the green, did a roundhouse, and he kicked it. I said, “Man, this kid is stinging the wave.” That’s how I got the word sting. About two years ago I got contacted by some of the Aipa family, they were gonna have a picnic, which they normally do and I never go. But what they did is they emailed me, and they had the information of where the picnic was gonna be and they had this photograph. I recognized the photo right off the bat because it is a very familiar picture of a Hawaiian guy wearing a malo, standing with a wooden surfboard behind his back and Diamond Head in the background. Then when I read the thing, that person, in the picture which I already had in my house (about 10 to 12 years earlier that my wife had bought for me) that was my great grandfather. I didn’t know this until about 2 years ago. And just by looking at this picture, my hair stood up. No way! In the background of that picture is where I caught my first wave, cause that is Baby Queens. The surfer in the picture is holding a surfboard. Now that surfboard, I don’t think he bought it at the surf shop, because that picture was taken in 18-something (1899). So I took it that he built the board. So for me, Ben Aipa, being in the world of surfing, and being a part of building surfboards, that picture stood out. It’s still standing out in my mind. I think where I’m at today I think I was destined to be where I am today thanks to my great grandfather, James Needles Gilman.


Rabbit Kekai Albert Leinaha Kekai. That is my full given name. Outside of that, it’s just plain Rabbit. Cause I could run fast, especially when the cops were chasing me. I used to do a lot of that running! I don’t know how long (I’ve been surfing). Nearly all my life. Still doing it. Not too good. This guy (points to knee), bone on bone. They want to cut me open and I said not now. I started surfing before I could even swim, I would paddle out and catch a wave, whitewater all the way to the shore. Turn around and go right back out. I learned how to swim the easy way. They grabbed me off the pier and threw me in the water. I climb up and they throw me in and I have to swim all the way from the pier to the shore, dog paddle. I surfed at Queens. I used to get a paipo board to play around with. Then later I got a board from my uncle. And then he got mad at me because I went out to where the big guys are. But I could surf. I was pretty good when I was a kid. And those big guys would tell me, “Get the effing hell out of here!” They got to catch me though because I run right inside where the whitewater is. We used to stand up on our paipo baords. Do 360’s. So that’s not new. But most of our paipo boards, we used to shape it out of plywood. The olden days the first thing we would do is get down to the beach and in the water. That’s my memory of Waikiki. Just getting down there to swim. Very few hotels. The one thing that stands out is the Steiner’s home right on the beach. When I look at Waikiki, I remember when this place was covered with houses. Just small little houses, none of these skyscrapers. Families used to live right alongside the beach. Each guy, they used to name breaks like Castles after the guy. The guys with the kala, the bucks that could buy property up front and then build it out, just like the Steiners. They would fence off the beach on their property, and then at nighttime we would go and tear it all down, then they don’t build anymore. They wise up to us guys. They hired a guard. But then whenever the guy went on break he would come back and the place was all wrecked up. We used to be real troublesome. Kolohe they called that. Everything they can do we can do better. It (Waikiki) was just like a flat beach all the way around, with sand, and that’s it. Right where that big hotel is, that place was called Queens. And it is still called Queens Surf. We used to surf there. It used to be just for royalty. We used to sit there and watch. Us kids, we were like ants out there, having a ball out there. A lot of the guys, like Duke, he used to watch us guys hotdogging. They had never seen surfing like that. (Duke) watched me surf and everything. He picked me up and took me under his wing. The first time I remember he told

me to come here. I go off and he tells me what to do. I used to use one of his big redwood planks, and they were what you would call a double ender, front and the back is rounded. Paddle in and then you would you just flip around on the board and paddle back out. But they called that an olo board, an old Hawaiian board. Every time I would go down and drag his board, cause I can’t carry em, it is so heavy. But sometimes I get 3 or 4 guys and we all carry the Duke’s board down. And we just know when he gets through work, the board is there, all dried up and put back right where he had it. He was a good guy. He taught me manners. He took me under his wing when I was first a kid cause I was troublesome. He set me straight. “Don’t do it again.” That was his thing. And he had these clodhoppers, big feet. He would send me through the air. I would turn around at him and give him an angry look, and he would move and I would move to, he can’t catch me. But the guy was one of my best guys. He taught me all kinds of things. He was my mentor. Later on he got me my first surfboard. I used to make my own boards. The guys that used to live over here used to have a row of houses and they would put their surfboards over there against the tree, or over the stone wall. Nighttime we used to go over there and steal their boards and cut them in half. 12 footers, 14 footers. They used to ride them straight, like Duke. We used to take the boards, cut them in half and shape our own boards. One day one guy came down and saw his board cut in half. He tell me, “Where you get that?” I said, “One guy just sold it to me. Do you want it back.” He said, “No, you keep it.” I said, “Thanks mister.” (laughing) They claimed that I was the first surfer to noseride, but Dickie Cross and Jackie Cross, the two brothers, them, myself and this Japanese guy named Stu, we all used to do it. And everybody would try to copy, and phew (wipe out). I told them, “You got to make yourself light. Float on air.” They used to watch me ride the nose and they couldn’t believe it. . . . They used to watch me ride the nose and they said I was the first guy, but I don’t think so because there were guys that tried to do it but they were on that long cigar boards. Clunkers I called them. They couldn’t do it. But it was fun. Later on when all the young guys like the Cross brothers and myself we started to innovate noseriding. Then everybody try, but they can’t do it. You gotta pussy foot I told them. Just creeping up and walking back. Those were fun days. Mostly, what I learned, hand me down knowledge, and that is what I do. People ask me how to do something, like hanging up in the front, I tell them they have to walk like a kitty cat.


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(Duke) watched me surf and everything. He picked me up and took me under his wing.


Hawaii Dominates NSSA Nationals

EXPLORER MENS (all ages) OPEN MENS (ages 16 & up) MAYORS CUP Ezekiel Lau - Honolulu, HI

EXPLORER WOMENS (all ages) Tatiana Weston-Webb - Hanalei, HI

OPEN WOMENS (all ages) MAYORS CUP EXPLORER GIRLS (ages 14 & under) Dax McGill - Sunset Beach

OPEN JUNIORS (ages 15 & under) Kalani David - Sunset Beach, HI

Other notable performances included: Moana Jones, 2nd Open Girls Mahina Maeda, 3rd Open Womens Mainei Kinimaka-Anahola, 3rd Open Girls Tatiana Weston-Webb ,4th Open Womens Briana Cope, 5th xplorer Womens Cole Alves, 2nd Explorer Super Groms Elijah Gates, 2nd Explorer Boys

Kaunaloa Ng, 3rd Explorer Menehune Seth Moniz, 3rd Explorer Boys Isaiah Moniz, 3rd Explorer Mens Josh Moniz, 3rd Open Mens Imaikalani Devault, 4th Open Juniors Cole Yamakawa, 6th Explorer Mens and Kahanu Delovio for winning the Carissa Moore Rookie of the Year Award


Hawaii’s top young surfers dominated the 2012 NSSA Nationals at Huntington Beach. Six Hawaii surfers put on a clinic in competitive surfing, taking out their respective divisions with some serious style. Congratulations on the victories Dax, Tatiana, Zeke, Finn, Kaito and Kalani!

EXPLORER JUNIORS (ages 17 & under) Kaito Kino - Honolulu, HI

OPEN BOYS (ages 12 & under) Finn McGill - Sunset Beach, HI


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C o mmuni t y

Cora Sanchez

FreeSurf’s Own Cora Sanchez Receives the Lifetime Achievement Award at Surfrider’s John Kelly Awards

“We don’t have a mall at Shark’s Cove right now and you can thank Cora for that,” Peter Cole said as he introduced the night’s Lifetime Achievement Award winner for the 9th Annual John Kelly Environmental Achievement Awards presented by Surfrider Foundation. Before youtube and blogs, those fighting for a cause had to go to public meetings, make signs, and organize in person. Cora Sanchez has a 20-year history on the North Shore where her efforts in helping to create the Pupukea-Waimea Marine Life Conservation District (MLCD), co-founding the Surfrider’s O‘ahu Chapter, and working tirelessly to protect the North Shore’s coastlines and “Keep the Country Country!” were hard fought battles. One of her biggest successes was helping the North Shore Community Land Trust fight against development in the Pupukea-Paumalu region, and finally, after 10 years of struggle: buy the land and preserve it as open space. Sanchez, who helps small businesses on the North Shore with their bookkeeping and office management as her day job, joins the ranks of past award winners Mark Cunningham, Yvon Chouinard, Shaun Thompson, Randy Rarick, Peter Cole, Larry McElheny, George Downing, and the inaugural, John Kelly. “I’m very grateful,” Sanchez says of the honor. “It was very 68

unexpected. I don’t do things for awards. I do them because I feel a calling.” Waimea Valley Pavilion was filled with sustainable souls and ocean enthusiasts possessing that indescribable glimmer—an energy that emanates from those whose passion for what they love seems to give them benefits akin to the fountain of youth. The awards are held in honor of one such timeless spirit, John Kelly, legendary waterman and environmental leader who started Save Our Surf and fought to protect Hawai‘i’s coastlines from overdevelopment. Kelly and SOS helped to save 140 surf sites around the state, while also stopping many destructive developments. Mark Cunningham was the evening’s emcee and Jack Johnson made a surprise move from the crowd to the stage and sang a few songs with the night’s live entertainment, The Intire Project. When asked what advice she has for those who also want to be active in protecting the environment and their local community, Cora says with a smile: “Activism does work. It really does. We are undeterred by any failures we’ve had in the past because we’ve had so many successes as well. You just never give up, you just keep working.” - Tiffany Foyle


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C o mmuni t y

One Drop Da Hui’s Mahina Chillingworth Whenever Mahina Chillingworth would bodysurf Waimea Bay shorebreak as a teenager, her buddy Hailama Kaikuana, always wore his black shorts. Today she realizes that was her first encounter with Hui O He’e Nalu (aka: Da Hui). “I asked him why he wore the shorts and he told me why and what the Da Hui represented,” she recalls. “He suggested I join Da Hui, but back then, there weren’t many wahine members and actually, wahine weren’t really ‘allowed’ to wear the black shorts.” Later in the early 90’s, Mahina met up with one of the founders, Eddie Rothman. He suggested she go to the Hui meetings and she has been a member ever since. In 2004, Mahina became the event coordinator for DA HUI, Inc. (the clothing company) and VicePresident of HUI O’ HE’E NALU (overseeing events, affairs and membership). “Da Hui is a man’s world,” Mahina says, “so I had to be patient and eventually prove myself that a wahine can lead. I’m very fortunate and thankful that the Da Hui leaders and members believed in me and have my back.” Over the years, Mahina has coordinated and directed events that give back to the community through charitable proceeds while celebrating the life and passion of ocean enthusiasts. Such family events include the Pro Surfer Christmas hospital visit, Da Hui Surf Bash, Da Hui Waimea Slam (bodysurfing contest), Da Hui Backdoor Shootout (famed winter surf contest), Da Hui O He’e Nalu North Shore Beach Clean Up (largest beach cleanup in the state), and Da Hui O He’e Nalu July 4th Paddle Race. While the Da Hui stereotypes are well known as tough regulators from the rougher days on the North Shore, Mahina’s work has ushered in an era of community service and family-friendly events. “Many still think of Da Hui has a bunch of ‘bullies,’” she laughs. “We’ve done more community service projects than any other organizations. So if that’s being a ‘bully,’ so be it. Our motto is that we’re ocean guardians, so that’s how it will remain.”

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Mahina cites the Hui O He’e Nalu founders— Eddie Rothman, Bryan Amona, Squiddy Sanchez, Terry Ahue, Billy Blakenfeld and Uncle Kawika Stant—as some of her inspirations. “They went toe-to-toe, literally, with foreigners who came with intentions to dominate the North Shore and capitalize on professional surfing back in the 70’s,” she explains. “They made it known that Hawaiians should never be belittled or disrespected.” In remembering those days, Mahina urges the next generation to not fear controversy. “If you feel disrespect to our culture is being done, and have facts to back it up, then fight,” she encourages. “Be proactive in the community. Don’t be those who sit back and talk a good talk: Walk the walk. When you step forward with good intentions to protect the ocean, ‘aina or the community and do your best at it, it’s a good feeling.” An activity that Mahina is very active in at the moment is the ‘Save Haleiwa Beach Park’ efforts, which aim to protect public land across from Haleiwa Beach Park from being sold to developer Andy Anderson who wants to build a hotel. Currently, the Hui O He’e Nalu has signed on as co-park keepers with the City’s Adopt-a-Park program. Every Saturday, you’ll find members of Da Hui along with other community members donating time to beautify the area for all to enjoy. “We are waiting word on how Mayor Carlisle wants to proceed on this parcel,” Mahina explains. “We’re hoping he doesn’t sell out. But who knows, when part of his administration is in cahoots with Andy Anderson, anything could happen. But we will keep on keeping on and hope and pray the Mayor doesn’t sell Haleiwa Mauka parcel. We, the Da Hui, won’t back down. Never has, never will.” Kala Alexander describes Mahina as a go-getter, always putting others in her community before herself. “She’s always spreading the word about causes that deserve the community’s attention,” he says. “She never does it for attention or recognition. She does it because she cares.”

Continued on page 73


C o mmuni t y One Drop continued

Mahina says that in regard to community service, her perspective is simple: “You’re either in or in day way!” She says that with good people on your side, you can part the sea. “There’s a quote that I love: ‘Individually, you’re a drop. Together, you’re an ocean.’ That’s how I feel about representing the Hui O He’e Nalu.” -Tiffany Foyle

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Todd Hannigan Chances are you’ve probably already heard the music of Todd Hannigan. His song “Thicker Than Water” was the title track to the Jack Johnson and Malloy brothers film that shared the same name. What you might not know is that Todd is a prolific songwriter and producer who has just released his third album, Further Than The Bow.

Born in Connecticut, Todd and his family migrated to the west coast when he was a child. With the Los Angeles record industry a little over an hour south, and good waves nearby, it was inevitable that surfing and music took over Todd’s life. Most days Todd can be found checking the surf around Ventura, or working in his Ojai-based Brotheryn Studios. At Brotheryn Studios, Hannigan has worked with many musicians; recording, producing, and even playing on their albums. Hannigan has kept busy, working on the

film scores for Come Hell or High Water and Melali.

Vocal comparisons to Nick Drake and Harry Chapin are not uncommon for Todd Hannigan. His song writing and structure are reminiscent of David Gilmore. Further Than The Bow fuses Todd’s words and melodies with an incredible group of musicians. Fernando Apodaca on violin, Bob and Jesse Siebenberg take care of drums and percussion, with Jesse also playing lap steel, guitar, and keyboards. Dave Palmer plays keyboards, while Sam Bolle covers the low end on bass. Neal Casal adds slide guitar, and Amanda Landis sings backup vocals. Highlights include “Submarine” and “Rivers and Valleys.” The album was recorded live to tape (with minimal overdubs), giving it an extremely intimate sound. In addition to being an incredibly talented musician and songwriter, the guy can surf too. You never know, you just might run into him in the lineup. - Jordon Cooper

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Adam Walker conquered the Molokai channel, swimming into Diamond Head at about 11 p.m. on June 22nd. The 26-mile swim is considered the third most difficult swim of the “Ocean’s Seven.” The channel crossing was sponsored iby ESDS. Walker said it kept the sharks away. The swim also raised money for two charities.


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Schwag


First place, Team Hawai’i 2012 ISA Masters Champions

Women’s Masters Gold – Rochelle Ballard Men’s Grand Masters Gold – Sunny Garcia Silver – Kaipo Jaquias Men’s Masters Final Results Silver – Sunny Garcia Bronze – Kaipo Jaquias Men’s Kahunas Bronze – Mike Latronic ISA Aloha Cup Gold – Hawai’i: Rochelle Ballard, Sunny Garcia, Kaipo Jaquias, Mike Latronic, Glenn Pang, Nelson Sadoy

It was all aloha with Team Hawaii cruising to it’s first gold medal at the ISA World Masters Surf Championship. Check out the next issue for the full story.

Photo: Shawn Parkin / ISA


Last Look



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