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WAIKIKI BEACH BOYS
P O I N T PA N I C
Josh Moniz Photo: Tony Heff
Located where the land meets the sea, Ala Moana Bowls provides a world-class wave with an iconic backdrop. Hereâ€™s Luke Shepardson laying the ground work for fun during a much anticipated summer season swell. Photo: Tony Heff
EDITOR’S NOTE By Mike Latronic What most of the world may call the city of Honolulu, Hawai`i’s surfing community simply dubs it as Town. Oddly, most surfers from different parts of the 50th state carry no particular nicknames. Take this with a grain of salt: waveriders at Jaws are not teethers, surfers from Big Island are not giants, and North Shore Oahu enthusiasts are not called northies, but for some reason the proud surfer from Honolulu is amicably dubbed a Townie. This special edition is for you and them. The powerful and legendary waves of Hawai`i are more often than not chronicled in worldwide media at places like the Banzai Pipeline, Peahi, Waimea Bay and Sunset Beach, but the bulk population of surfers live close to the playful hotdog waves of Town. This makes sense: Honolulu is the state capital and the most populous city, and there are plenitudes of different nooks and crannies to surf in Town. From Sandy Beach to Honolulu International, there are hundreds of reef breaks to take advantage of. Some of these spots, though not world famous are indeed world class. Most are super fun, rippable and beloved by the city folk who thrive there. On a solid South swell, the townie is in townie heaven. In this issue of Freesurf, we delve straight to the heart of Town surfing in one of our main features on the colorful shores of Waikiki. Freesurf dedicates a full highlight to honor the most famous, if not most fun loving group of surfers we could think of: the Beach Boys. Be their kind, born of a romantic tale of fun in the sun, pure desire to share waves and aloha or an economic necessity to survive, the Beach Boys are truly the surf brigade of pioneers for our beloved sport and the original heartfelt ambassadors of aloha. This edition also takes a closer look at one of Hawai`i’s top performing surfers in young Josh Moniz. There’s ample surf photography, news and stories to give you a great dose of good ole fashioned magazine reading. And if you crave for that electronic buzz venture over to our website or social media. We are simply looking to share the stoke and reflect the aloha, any way you can get it. Enjoy!
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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DEPARTMENTS 04 Free Parking 06 Editorâ€™s Note 16 News & Events 56 Aperture 66 She Rips 70 Environment 74 Sounds 76 Industry Notes 82 Last Look Rosie Jaffurs Photo: Keoki
TA BLE O F C ONT ENT S / FEATUR E S
Ne w s & E vent s /
S H O W
R O O M
B I K I N I S , C LOT H E S & A CC E S S O R I E S Examining the life of the Waikiki Beach Boy, from past to present.
Talk Story / Josh Moniz
How has Town shaped Josh Moniz’s surfing? We talk story with the young gun on growing up in Town and what he’s learned on the QS grind.
Point of Panic
Legends / Ben Aipa
Mark Cunningham and Kaneali’i Wilcox share a bodysurfing session at the iconic locale Point Panic.
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Catching up with Ben Aipa and his contributions to the sport of surfing.
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Publisher Mike Latronic Managing Editor Cash Lambert Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic West Coast Ambassador Kurt Steinmetz Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock, Keoki Saguibo Free Thinkers Chelsea Jarrell, John Ellis Photo Intern Brenden Donahue
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John Bilderback, Marc Chambers, Brooke Dombroski, Rick Doyle, Isaac Frazer, Jeromy Hansen, Pete Hodgson, Joli, Kin Kimoto, Tim McKenna, Tammy Moniz, Nelly, Nick Ricca, Gavin Shige, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Jess Wertheim, Jimmy Wilson, Cole Yamane Senior Account Executive Brian Lewis Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop!
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As Josh Moniz has grown in age and stature, we've had the pleasure of watching him boost higher airs and lay down bigger carves at Kewalos, and transition from fervent grom to a humble pro, grinding away on the QS and putting himself within striking distance for qualification of the WSL Championship Tour. Josh epitomizes the rapidly expanding high rises under construction in several parts of Waikiki: his foundation (a mix of passion and talent) is firmly in place, his growth plan is regimented, and heâ€™s surrounded himself with like-minded individuals who have similar goals and are pushing him higher and higher. It seems to be only a matter of time until his preparation has a grand collision with opportunity. Though weâ€™re not sure what the result will exactly look like, we can envision that he will be a force to be reckoned with in the years to come in the realm of competitive surfing.
C R E ATO R S & I N N OVATO R S
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THE ART OF SHOREBREAK: CLARK LITTLE PREMIERES SIGNATURE FILM By Tyler Rock
By now, just about every ocean enthusiast and many who have never even experienced the ocean’s raw power have heard of Clark Little, or at least seen one of his breathtaking images, taking the viewer into a place few people will ever be - deep in the belly of death defying shorebreak. Years ago, Clark set out to get a wave photo for the wall of his family home, not because he wanted to take up photography but rather cringed at the idea of his wife spending money on such a thing. He figured he could do it himself. One thing led to the other and now Clark is the king of shorebreak art photography. Teaming up with Hurley’s resident video documenter Peter King, the two set out to tell his story with the film Shorebreak: The Clark Little Story. Riding the success of his huge social media following (Clark has 1.8 million Instagram followers), Clark and Peter’s film has seen positive feedback along the film festival trail and we at Freesurf got a chance to watch the flick at its Honolulu premiere in the historic Hawaii Theater on the evening of June 27. Upon arrival, a bulked out crowd snaked around two sides of the building, eager to fill every available seat for the free showing. After a short speech by Clark and Peter, the 50 minute documentary commenced and the shorebreak onslaught began!
The film is comprised of a raw blend of impromptu commentary by Clark while driving to locations, checking wave conditions and running in and out of the water to shoot, all complemented with shots of Clark in action taken from the water, land and drone. The theme is simple yet inspiring: follow your passions and you will find your calling. Interviews with friends like Jack Johnson, Kelly Slater, and his late brother Brock recall Clark’s childhood and adolescence days charging ominous shorebreak and living up to his nickname “Turbo”. Not much has changed for Clark. The 48-year-old still froths on scoring the perfect conditions and putting his body into harm's way to capture the unique beauty of the ocean meeting the shore. The film juxtaposes the danger and beatings Clark goes through with the pure and natural phenomenon of breaking waves. The light hearted approach afforded a number of laughs, even from the man himself, Clark, who happened to be sitting right behind me with his family during the showing. So what’s next for Clark? Only time will tell, but one thing is for sure, he’ll be continuing to follow his passion and love for being in the ocean and capturing inspired images. To check out Shorebreak: The Clark Little Story, visit www. clarklittlephotography.com to look for the next screening or order your very own copy.
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“I was really excited for Roxy to launch the Roxy Fitness events because it’s a great way to get girls together and celebrate sport and a healthy lifestyle and healthy living,” said Eleogram. “Roxy makes incredible activewear but I love to see girls getting out there and actually using it and getting active with friends and I just think it's a really great event.”
#ROXYFITNESS INVADES THE NORTH SHORE Photos: Keoki
On Saturday, June 25, Roxy brought together nearly 400 females to participate in the ROXY Fitness Run Sup Yoga event held at Turtle Bay on Oahu’s North Shore. Coming back for the second year in a row, the rainy morning quickly turned into bright sunlight as the eager girls lined up to start the 1 km Stand Up Paddle race around Kawela Bay, followed by a 5 km run and finished off with a 45 minute yoga class. In attendance were Roxy Ambassadors Monyca Eleogram and Mainei Kinimaka to join in on the festivities and help encourage the girls to live a healthy lifestyle. With a number of Roxy Fitness events that take place around the world, Roxy is looking to spread the narrative of staying active.
While the Run and SUP did crown winners, the overall vibe was about fun and enjoying the company of like-minded girls. The Kawela and Turtle Bay backdrop provided the perfect stage for all to enjoy scenery. Yoga served to culminate a day of fitness and health. “The yoga is really peaceful and it's a really good way to wrap everything up, to stretch all your muscles and relax with the all the girls,” said Kinimaka. “We’re right next to the ocean so it's really serene, peaceful and it's just a really awesome way to end the event.”
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U N R EA SON ABLY DRY U NREAS ON AB LY LIGH T
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by Chris Latronic
With the morning came moody spores of rain and wind, fitting the shared vibes of all who attended to honor the funeral ceremony of beloved North Shore wave warrior Brock Little on June 26. Friends and family from all walks of the world came together in appreciation, respect and love to Waimea Bay, Brock’s favorite surf spot, to paddle out with his ashes and release him amongst the waves he so famously dominated. To be in the presence of Waimea Bay during such an event was euphoric. The Valley holds so much mana, and it echoes with every tradewind, which flows through it. During the day, rains continued off and on with little bursts of sunlight trying to push through the gray cumulus clouds. The Hawaiian Water Patrol was at hand with jet skis and canoes as they escorted Brock’s family out to the treasured lineup at the Bay followed by a multitude of family, friends, and attendees. Together, we splashed, we cried, we spread his ashes, we said our goodbyes, we laughed, we screamed his name, we threw out
flowers, we threw out leis, the Little family jumped in, Kelly Slater and Clark Little backflipped off the platform attached to the canoes, the water was clear, the sun was out, emotions were released, and Brock was released as well. It was truly a beautiful day. Here’s what some of friends, family and attendees had to say about the powerful Brock farewell. “It was a terrible reason to get together, but it's great to see how much love and respect everyone had for Brock and just how special he was to so many people,” said Brock’s father, Doric Little. “Brock had a way to put all of us in our place no matter what,” said Kelly Slater, “but he had your back like no one else in the world… and that’s why we loved him so much.” “He was always one of those guys that was always willing to share his life and never too big headed to talk to somebody, anybody,” said Aaron Gold. “I was fortunate to have shared a few sessions with Brock and I will cherish those memories forever. We love you Brock, thank you for inspiring all of us. Can’t wait to see you again.”
“Today really helped out a lot,” said Clark Little. “I left the ocean feeling better, that's what's important to me. He was someone I looked up to all my life. He was always the charger: Waimea. Eddie Aikau contests. Fighting and scraping with everybody. Brock will always be in my heart, love you Brock.” “We’re here to celebrate the life of Brock Little,” said Bryan Amona. “This is not a funeral, this is a celebration of how they lived. To come in this valley and feel my ancestors and be in this spot right here where Eddie (Aikau) use to work… that's special. Brock gave me courage, he was a very courageous man. It's not about how he died, it's how he lived. It's what he gave to me and what he’s leaving for everyone here… and that's beautiful and priceless.” Keoki
A BROCK FAREWELL
EVAN GEISELMAN JUST PASSING THROUGH
HONORING RABBIT KEKAI
Photos: Tammy Moniz By 7am on the morning of June 25th, a large crowd had gathered in front of Duke’s Waikiki to celebrate the life and legacy of Albert “Rabbit” Kekai, a beloved waterman who passed away at the age of 95 in May. Thousands of footprints lined the sand around pictures, paintings and surfboards, all on display under the shade of the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort. Diamond Head stood as a bright, timeless monument as Rabbit’s family took to the microphone to speak on behalf of their father and grandfather, a man known as a Waikiki beach boy, a pioneer of wave riding, an excellent canoe steersman, and so much more. “Today we put to rest one of the most famous Waikiki beach boys, one of my mentors, Rabbit Kekai,” said Teddy Bush, fellow beach boy and owner of Waikiki Beach Services. “He passed one day short of his 96th birthday, he had a really healthy life, he had a long life. He lived way beyond his years and that’s gonna play out as time goes by because he is a legend. He left
his mark on this beach, he left his mark on surfing, he left his mark on the North Shore. Towards the end of his career, in his 60’s, every time they had a surf meet anywhere globally, they couldn’t wait to invite him. Everybody would ante up the money and drag him over. He was at surf meets in Israel, all around the world. He was that famous, he was a global icon. More importantly, he was our son, our home son. And he worked here, he taught us… thrilled us. We used to call him “Hot Dog”. When he was surfing out there, running the nose and switching back and forth on the waves. That was way before his time, or anybody’s time. Before the mini boards came in, later to be coined the “short boards” he could really design
and cut up the waves.” “Uncle Rabbit was one of the aggressive surfer, watermen, and beach boy that stayed with us for many years,” said Tony Moniz. “He was always a riot to watch, you know. He was a tough guy, even in the water at my young age I was catching waves and the pecking order at Queens, at Canoes, was Uncle Rabbit, and all the other Uncles. Those were the examples.” After a heartfelt prayer, the memorial shifted from the land to sea, with hundreds paddling out in surfboards and canoes, flanked by multiple catamarans carrying even more people looking to say goodbye.
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HONOLULU SURF FILM FESTIVAL
Daily film screenings, mingling with pro surfers and legends of the sport, and re-living the stories born from foam and saltwater: throughout the entire month of July, the Honolulu Surf Film Festival screened films from past to present, weaving a tapestry of tales that make up our beloved sport.
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The Film Festival kicked off on July 2 with John John Florence’s View From a Blue Moon, and throughout the month, also showcased notable films like Psychic Migrations, Paige Alms’ biopic The Wave I Ride, and Bud Browne’s Surfing the Fifties. “This year's festival stands out not only because we have one of the most robust line-ups we've ever had but also because we're tying the festival to other exhibitions and programs within the museum, allowing us to celebrate surfing and surf filmmaking on a larger platform than we've had previously,” said Taylour Chang, Director of Doris Duke Theatre. The festival seemingly showcased every facet of the sport, from profiles of surfers to chronicling inspiring surf trips and even including a screen of Fish, a film about the origins of the fish surfboard designs and its influence on surf culture. The screening was then followed by a panel discussion with Hawai‘i in Design exhibiting artists Eric Walden, CJ Kanuha, and Keith Tallett, who discussed the art of surfboard shaping and design.
“Film is nothing without its audience,” said Chang. “Seeing people enter the door, fill up the space, react to the images on screen, and then get inspired to go back out into the water is what makes it all worth it. It's the community and audience relationships that element the festival experience.”
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TALENT FROM HAWAI`I IMPRESSES AT 2016 NSSA NATIONALS Photos: Steinmetz From June 26-July 3, a legion of young Hawaiian talent made an annual pilgrimage to Huntington Beach to compete on a daunting nationwide scale at the 2016 NSSA Nationals. The contest not only showed each surfer how he or she measured up to a larger talent pool; it also provided an opportunity to show off the hard work put in, along with bragging rights and trophies up for grabs. In the chest to head high swell, with an overcast horizon as the backdrop, talent from Hawai`i dominated in nearly every division. Brisa Hennessy won a decisive victory in the Open Women’s, and both Barron Mamiya and Jackson Bunch came in runner up in their respective divisions: the Open Juniors (15 and under) and Open Boys (12 and under). Finn McGill was aptly named National Airshow Champion. Maui’s Cody Young inched out a victory in the Explorer Juniors (17 and under) over Noa Mizuno, who came in .15 points behind. Kai Martin’s skill proved to be 26
decisive, as the Town native won the Explorer Super Groms (age 10 and under). The top three finishers in the Explorer Menehune division included the Hawaiian talent pool as well, with Jackson Bunch coming in first, Robert Grilho second, and Luke Swanson third. Gabriela Bryan led the charge in the Explorer women, with Kahanu Delovio coming in runner up and Savanna Stone third.
E V E N T S WSL / Kirstin
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MICK FANNING WINS JBAY OPEN World Champion surfer, gifted human and one of the humblest athletes on the pro tour, Mick Fanning took a break from his full time assault on the 2016 WSL CT to deal with some issues from a tumultuous 2015 year. It was this time last year at the JBay Open with the webcast live and cameras cued when Fanning was suddenly under heavy threat, having a close encounter with an enormous Great White Shark. The animal threw him off his surfboard, and Julian Wilson valiantly paddled towards Mick in an attempt to aide him. Tense moments felt like hours as the whole scene was lost from sight with waves filling the lineup. Miraculously, Mick was rescued on the Water Patrol Jetski. Fast forward to JBay in 2016 and Mick Fanning surfed better than ever. Perhaps even better than that! Stunning display after stunning display, Mick was completely on fire. Towards the later rounds of the event, Fanning toppled an in form Filipe Toledo in the Quarters. In the semis, Mick faced Julian Wilson and it was nothing short of an eerie rematch from the 2015 heat. Making it even more eerie was the fact that there was little or no mention on the webcast of what actually happened at last years matchup between these two surfers and â€œthe man in the grey suit.â€? John John Florence would see his way to #2 in the CT ratings with a fantastic display of surfing in the final, but Mick Fanning was not to be out done and appropriately claimed the first place trophy. For this man to even step foot back in the ocean - albeit with a competition jersey on at the same venue - was indeed truly courageous. Mick did what he does best, and we are all the luckier to witness a one of a kind man and moment in time. Thank you Mick!
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ROBERT GRILHO III, JACKSON BUNCH AND OTHERS SHINE AT RIP CURL GROMSEARCH IN KEWALOS Photos: Tony Heff The second stop of the 2016 Rip Curl GromSearch series presented by Banzai Bowls - made its annual visit to the waverich Kewalo Basin on the South Shore of Oahu in July. Three to five foot A-frames poured into the lineup all day as a GromSearch single day record of 100 competitors entered into the contest. The top four finishers in each division earned all-important invitations to compete in the GromSearch National Final, set to run at Seaside Reef in San Diego on October 29th, and the boys and girls 16 and under National Champions get an all-expense paid trip to compete in the GromSearch International Final set to be held somewhere on The Search in early Spring 2017. Haleiwa’s Koa Matsumoto carved his way to victory in the Boys 16 and under division. "I haven't had a good result in a while, so this one felt good,” he said. “My strategy was to wait for the sets and look for the rights. I didn't go left at all.” Runner up went to the Big Island's Ocean Donaldson-Sargis, 3rd place to Maui's Cole Alves, and 4th place to Oahu's Devin Brueggman. Although finishing 3rd wasn't his dream result, Cole Alves did walk away as the Banzai Bowls Maneuver of the Event champion for his air reverse. 30
The event broke a new record, hosting 36 girls in the draw for the 16 and under division. Julie Nishimoto blazed through the heat, locking in a high scoring wave 9.5 and taking out her younger sister Emily for the win. In the boys 14 and under, it was a total domination by Kewalos local and the event's only double finalist: Robert Grilho III. RG3 avenged a second place finish in the Boys 12/U to take a GromSearch victory for the 2nd year in a row. Second place went to Kauai’s Sage Tutterow, 3rd place went to Malibu's Taro Watanabe, 4th place to Wyatt McHale, 5th place to Ocean Macedo, and 6th place to Dylan Franzman. Although Ocean Macedo missed out on the National Final, he was awarded with the DHD High Heat Total of the event for an incredible display in the early rounds, totaling 17.1 points. For his efforts Macedo was awarded a custom Darren Handley Designs surfboard. The youngest but most competitive division, the Boys 12 and under, saw a seesaw battle that ended up going in the direction of Maui’s Jackson Bunch. Bunch used his sharp forehand to tear apart the bending inside bowl to finish with 15.5 points.
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FINAL RESULTS BOYS 16/UNDER 1. Koa Matsumoto ($250) 2. Ocean Donaldson-Sargis 3. Cole Alves 4. Devin Brueggeman GIRLS 16/UNDER 1. Emily Nishimoto ($250) 2. Julie Nishimoto 3. Brisa Hennessy 4. Samantha Sibley 5. Brittany Penaroza 6. Gabriela Bryan BOYS 14/UNDER 1. Robert Grilho III ($250) 2. Sage Tutterow 3. Taro Watanabe 4. Wyatt McHale 5. Ocean Macedo 6. Dylan Franzmann
BOYS 12/UNDER 1. Jackson Bunch ($250) 2. Robert Grilho III 3. Diego Ferri 4. Kai Martin 5. Thatcher Johnson 6. Raphael Castro BANZAI BOWLS MANEUVER OF THE EVENT: Cole Alves, Air Reverse ($305) DHD HIGH HEAT TOTAL: Ocean Macedo, 17.10
Intro and photos by Keoki The lines of 4-5 foot sets march into A-frame peaks, grabbing your attention quickly. You mind surf each wave until it fizzles, dissipating into a dream. Uncrowded, winds are offshore, and the countless drawings of flawless waves youâ€™ve doodled so often in your notebook is coming to life before your eyes. You snap back to reality when you see a boardless body flowing effortlessly amongst the funneling waves: Point Panic. The wave is a dream for surfers, but to a body surfer, it serves as one of the world's finest playgrounds. For 61-year-old legendary waterman and bodysurfing legend Mark Cunningham, with his quiet and humble apprentice, Kaneali`i Wilcox, age 24, Point Panic is the proving grounds for Hawai`i's bodysurfers and the go-to spot for summer Town swells.
Back in the day at Point Panic, you could pull your truck up to the water’s edge and it would be breaking right there in front of you,” said Cunningham. “It’s a fun, machine like quality wave that peels into the channel and has the trades grooming it.”
“It’s a sanctuary of sorts,” said Cunningham. “The waves are so fun, and it’s nice to not be out there dodging boogie boards, SUPs, quads, fishes, and don’t forget that Costco boards. In late 70s, early 80s the City Council the state authorities legally made it only for bodysurfing, with no board surfing allowed.”
“There’s freedom of not being attached to a piece of equipment and being totally immersed in mother ocean,” said Cunningham. “It humbles you. It is not as easy as other board riding sports, because you’re not going to go as far or fast, or get tubed or do radical cutbacks. It’s nice to go back to basics and keep it simple.”
“Kaneali’i Wilcox is a great kid, he graduated from Kamehameha schools and is doing crazy belly rolls and forward somersaults, things I’ve never seen before,” said Cunningham. “His body surfing speaks for him. He has a big future ahead.”
“The guys at Point Panic fought hard to keep it what it is. It’s a piece of bodysurfing history, a one of kind,” said Wilcox. “It barrels slow and is the perfect speed for bodyboarding. It’s still the same hardcore guys that barbeque there when it’s flat, and the same core group of guys when the waves are there. It’s great to always see the same guys.”
“With bodysurfing, there’s no barrier between you and the ocean. It’s the closest you can get full sensory sport,” said Wilcox. “I think that’s why a lot of us do it: we’re more connected with the ocean, and the nice thing is it’s always overhead.”
“I’m beyond honored to have done this session with Mark,” said Wilcox. “Growing up my whole childhood, he was my idol. I’ve watched him and learned that you have to put your time it, it’s what has gotten him to where he’s at. The fact that I get to be a part of something like this and be passed the torch, it’s mind blowing. It’s a huge chapter that I wanted fulfilled in my life.”
From the shores of ESEN T TO PR S A P M FRO H BOY C A E B E OF A THE LIF ambert
By Cash L
“Everyone ready? Wait….Ok, now! Paddle, paddle!” Led by Zane Aikau’s authoritative voice and the steering of his paddle, the motionless outrigger canoe suddenly exploded forward, slicing through the blue Waikiki Beach saltwater at a surprisingly fast speed. All 7 members were furiously digging their paddles into the sea. Minutes prior, the team, which consisted of Australian tourists, collectively pushed the outrigger canoe from Waikiki’s crowded sands into the glassy sea, paddling opposite of one another to the rhythm of Zane’s commands. Then, sitting hundreds of yards offshore near the wave known as Canoes, everyone kept a watchful eye on the horizon until a lump appeared, growing taller as it approached.
Tom Blake / Bishop Museum
Zane swung the canoe around with ease and continued to command and motivate the team until the pulse energy launched the canoe forward. “OK, everyone stop! We got it!” Cheehhuuuu!” At that moment, the wave shot us in the direction of the beach with the wind whipping by our ears and sea spray exploding into the air. Because everything was moving rapidly, it was impossible to take in the entire scene, with the gargantuan skyscrapers surrounding the beach and Diamond Head watching from its eternal perch. The moment seemed to be in slow motion for Zane, who methodically steered us through the zoo of surfers staring with wide eyes. “Has much changed since you first started being a beach boy?” I said, directed towards Zane as we paddled back out. A soft mist began to fall from the sky.
making sure everyone is safe...I became a full time beach boy in my 20s, spent a lot of time riding in Uncle Clyde [Aikau]’s canoe and learning. One thing I remember all the beach boys saying was that if you wanted to be a beach boy, you had to do three things: not just surf well, but also surf canoes, play ukulele, and weave coconut hats.”
unforgettable and historic scenery, my mind drifted to the deeper meanings of the cultural time machine I was riding in.
“What about the most important quality of being a beach boy? What do you think that is?”
“I meant to ask earlier - you said that in order to be a beach boy, you have to also be able to weave hats,” I said as we rowed closer to shore. “Just out of curiosity, why is that aspect so important?”
“Oh, the way you treat people,” Zane said. “Spreading aloha...it’s also important to treat everyone the same, treat them well. Here we go, everyone start paddling!” Oars were immediately in the water, and as a blue set corduroyed toward us, the canoe raced in the direction of beach once more. “Paddle harder! Harder! Ok, we got it!”
“Nah brah, it’s mostly the same,” he responded. “Teaching surfing, going canoe surfing, even being lifeguards, 40
“This is just another day at the office,” said Zane Aikau (left) steering an outrigger canoe with writer Cash Lambert (middle).
Again, the addictive feeling of riding a wave returned and instead of eyeing the
“Howz this!” said Zane, skillfully keeping the canoe in the pocket of the wave until we nearly reached shore. “I love this rain! We might have a rainbow soon guys, but for now let’s take her in.”
“The hats...if it was a slow day and you needed to make some extra money, you could weave them out of leaves and sell it, you know?” “So there was an entrepreneurial spirit…”. Zane’s commands to paddle backwards to beach the canoe stopped me mid sentence, and moments later, we were back on the sand, with Zane taking a seat under a blue umbrella. He pulled an appropriate snack out of his pack: fish.
hat started as an offhand workplace conversation at the Freesurf office developed into an investigation into history books, talking story with present day beach boys and landed me in an outrigger canoe steered by Zane Aikau: what does it mean to be a modern day beach boy? Is it anything like it used to be, and what does the future hold for those that call themselves beach boys? It’s been said that in order to understand where a culture is going, its people must first realize their roots and where they came from. The same can be said about the history of the beach boys. So where does their story begin? Other than tales told around the beach bonfire and petroglyphs, the first recorded account we have of surfing is from Captain James Cook in the Hawaiian Islands in 1778. Explorers on his expedition, along
“Learning to be a beach boy, it takes time, like a flower,” said Tony Moniz, 57-years-old, and founder of Faith Surf School. “It takes time like anything else. You can't come in and force it, you have to work it, learn it.”
with later settlers, witnessed a native culture that considered surfing as an integral part of their lifestyle, with certain surf breaks reserved for Hawaiian royalty and other breaks allocated to common people.
missionaries sought to abolish the sport, viewing it as an hedonistic act, and succeeded, all accounts agree that by the end of the century, surfing was rarely practiced.
Fast-forwarding to the early 1800s, missionaries arrived on the Islands and had a significant impact in shifting surfing’s popularity.
This changed in the early 1900s, when a surfing renaissance began, in part, under the guidance of two surf clubs: The Outrigger Canoe Club and the Hui Nalu Club.
“I’m not familiar with specific edicts, I know that missionaries had a puritanical view. They also had a work ethic, and I think they were more interested that,” said surfing legend Fred Hemmings, the winner of the 1968 World Surfing Championships and founder of the Pipeline Masters. “Everyone became caught up in being westernized, and surfing and Hawaiian outrigger canoe racing went by the wayside.” While a gray area exists regarding this time period - some believe, like Hemmings, that westernization stymied surfing, and others hold true that
“Duke Kahanamoku and a group of his pals, mostly Hawaiian lads like himself, gathered daily under the shade of a hau tree by the Moana Hotel,” wrote David Davis in his book Waterman: The Life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku. “They spent countless hours listening to stories from experienced watermen and studying the ways of the water. It was the education of a waterman, with the sort of knowledge that one didn’t learn in school: wave formation and its tendencies, the effect of the reef on different breaks where the best fishing areas were located.” Years later, Duke Kahanamoku, Knute
He looked my direction, his eyes a sea of mesmerizing blue. “Yeah brah, all this... it’s just another day at the office.”
Waikiki Beach Boys March 18, 1937 Photo: J.H.
Beach Boy for life!
were jesters and musicians, philosophers and tour guides, with nicknames like ‘Steamboat, Splash, Panama, Turkey, Chick and Mystery,’” he wrote. “They worked for tips and meals and more, symbols of the casual hedonism of sunshine, swimming and surfing found only in Hawai`i.”
Davis also noted in his text that much of the allure surrounding the beach boys was that of charisma, charm, and that they were cultural phenomenons: “They
“They set the gold standard for aloha,” said Hemmings. “The great attributes of that generation was their ability to
“Hui Nalu members supported themselves this way, giving surfing and swimming lessons to tourists and taking them for rides in the outrigger canoes for a dollar a person,” Davis wrote. “The beach boys made sure visitors didn’t get too sunburned and were there to aid
inexperienced swimmers. They taught tourists how to eat poi and cooked them crab and squid over open fires. They put pungent lei around their necks, rubbed oil on their backs, weaved hats for them... Then, as the sun disappeared over the horizon, they took out their ukuleles and crooned soothing melodies on the pier.”
Cottrell and Ken Winter founded the Hui Nalu Club, based at the Moana Hotel in Waikiki, with swimming serving as the primary activity of the club in the early years, along with surfing and canoe paddling.
“Back in the 50s and 60s…we had some down times where we didn’t make any money, there were no tourists in town,” said 68-year-old Teddy Bush. “So we had to survive on the beach and the water out there, so we did our fishing and diving.”
Kim Wai, was one of the original members of the influential Hui Nalu Surf Club.
Other than being entertainers, the earliest beach boys are also credited with popularizing the sport. Because not only were they teaching surfing to travelers who would return home with unbelievable stories of wave riding back to different parts of the globe; Duke, certainly the most renown beach boy of them all, took on an ambassador role and traveled extensively, showcasing his swimming and surfing skill, along with the message of aloha in places like New Jersey, Southern California and Australia.
“My parents and everyone else’s parents my age were really upset that we chose this career. Everyone thought we were lazy bums. So a lot of times we didn’t even feel comfortable with ourselves, but then we saw people like Rabbit Kekai and others, just super hard workers, talented in the water and you know, just true Hawaiians. I came down to the beach and I saw the true culture, the true spirit. Nobody was putting them down. Everybody got hold of the culture and everybody’s was really proud to promote it, to speak about it.”
Back in crowded Waikiki, the Renaissance era of surfing was a ticking clock and ended the moment billowing, black smoke rose from Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941. During the war, barbed wire fences and Military patrols replaced waves of tourists and beach boys. Post World War II, tourists once again flocked to Hawai`i and the role of beach boys once again continued, but by most accounts, duties shifted from being entertainers to focusing on beach services. Though the era was forever relegated to history books, the sport of surfing was alive and well. “Growing up in the 50s and 60s, there was a shadow over being a beach boy,” explained Teddy Bush, the owner of Waikiki Beach Services. The career runs in his blood: Ted’s grandfather,
Toes on the nose.
befriend everyone with rapport and not judge them for the content of their pocketbook.”
The Beach Boy’s job extends beyond the waves to the shore, where showing guests how to relax is part of the job.
According to the 68-year-old, who boasts a glistening smile and tall frame, there was never a guidebook or class for learning the intricacies of the beach boy trade. Instead, the job was passed down through mentorship. “In those days...you come on board, you take baby steps, you watch, you go out and hopefully you catch the eye of some old timers, then they take you under their wing,” said Bush. “But you have to, a while before that, prove that you are not a waterman. You’re a water baby. Because we had some down times too where we didn’t make any money, there were no tourists in town. So we had to survive on the beach and the water out there, so we did our fishing, and diving. But the older beach boys kept an eye on us.”
What is one aspect that hasn’t changed about being a beach boy despite the changes in time? As Zane alluded to, having a multiple skillset. “A surfer, a waterman, a canoe guy, a fisherman, the guys grew up on the beach, I think that is the pure definition of a beach boy,” said Moniz. Another quality paramount to being a beach boy is, according to Tony Moniz, maintaining that entrepreneurial spirit that Duke and the original beach boys exhibited. “Nothing was given to me on a silver platter, and I love challenges,” he said. “I started off alone, and just worked it. I
“It was an easy lifestyle, there wasn’t too much complaining,” said Sam Rodrigues, who was a beach boy “back in the day when everyone wore 40-40s. We’d hang out and help and they would take us to, for example, the Makaha contests. A lot of them had a lot of other jobs. Some were policemen, others musicians. We used to rake the beach every morning before people were walking on it, and you could see these beautiful lines when you come in the morning when no one has walked on it.” “Learning to be a beach boy, it takes time, like a flower,” said Tony Moniz, 57-years-old, and founder of Faith Surf School. “It takes time like anything else. You can’t come in and force it, you have to work it, learn it. My impression on the early years of being a beach boy...the Uncles took care of us...literally feed us, encourage us... watching the Uncles down at these beach stands work, it is just a lot of sight, a lot of watching.” “Who could argue with going surf every day?” said fellow beach boy and operator of Aloha Beach Services Harry “DiDi” Robello, whose dad was a first-generation beach boy and mother was a second-generation Kahanamoku. “You know, as a kid I was out here surfing. Then all of sudden it started: go help the boys in the canoe, start carrying boards, hey fix this, fix that, watch the desk… Next thing you know I’m running the show.”
“Hopefully our gang here can infect this beach with being true ambassadors of Aloha,” said Tony Moniz. “Sharing the love, sharing what we are here for. Knowing that this is a privilege for us to be located right here, to teach surfing.”
would walk up and down Diamond Head cliffs, loading boards, unloading boards alone, with my little Mazda truck picking up people from hotels, so it was the love. Being able to come on to the beach at Waikiki to teach, you need what we call a “blue card”, so as soon as I got my blue card, then I got an office, so one thing led to another, and it is pure passion, going back to it. We went from having one or two employees to having twenty.”
ambassadors of aloha,” said Tony. “Sharing the love, sharing what we are here for. Knowing that this is a privilege for us to be located right here, to teach surfing, to give people the best we can. They save all their money years and years to come here for a week, two weeks, and the best we can do is put a smile on their face.” pau
That passion, along with the surrounding community, is one of the driving forces to becoming a beach boy today, according to John Paul Kaleopa’a, currently in his early 30s. “I really do call myself a beach boy,” he said. “If not one of the last. I save a lot of lives, I try to perpetuate what was real... For example, I took out this girl when she was a kid and now she’s married, she has a kid and I saw her yesterday. I’ve had connections with people so many times over the years that I can’t leave, if I did leave, then I lose a connection, and a piece of me.” At the end of the day, whether it’s John Paul taking someone out on their first ever surf lesson, Zane Aikau steering tourists into their first wave or Tony Moniz speaking with beachgoers on Waikiki’s iconic sands, the focus always was and will forever be on the travelers. “Hopefully our gang here can infect this beach with being true
TALK STORY /
JOSH MONIZ By Chris Latronic Photos Tony Heff
Josh Moniz has always had that look, that look of undeniable determination. All the Moniz boys have it, but I think I personally saw it in Josh first. It was years ago, and he was probably 7 or 8 years old. The entire Moniz clan paddled out to V-Land one sunny afternoon: Micah, Isaiah, Kelia, Josh, and even Seth were all there, sitting on the inside bowl trying to pick off whatever waves they could. Uncle Tony Moniz paddled straight out the back, knowing exactly where to sit, and shredded the first or second wave of every set that came through. After catching a few waves, I noticed little Josh Moniz paddling his compact frame deeper into the lineup a bold move for a grom. He sat there smiling. Then a set came, and I was in the perfect position for the first wave, but as I tracked down the line I noticed a smiling little Josh Moniz fluttering inside of me. Usually in this situation, the older local boy would exude his dominance over a younger grom and simply ignore the grom’s feeble attempts and just take the wave. But then Josh gave me that look. That look you only see in the eyes of the best surfers. They see something more, something special. They are completely tuned to what they are about to do. They can almost see the future. I saw it in Andy Irons, Kelly Slater, Sunny Garcia, Makua Rothman, John John Florence… and now I see it in a little Hawaiian boy about to punk me off my wave. I couldn’t help but give Josh the wave, almost paralyzed by the wonders of what he was about to do. Josh took off late behind the peak and got completely pitted through the inside section, brothers and sister cheering as he boosted an air while beaming the biggest smile. At that moment I know Josh was on his way. Fast forwarding to the present, Josh Moniz is now 20 years old and has been grinding away at the World Qualifying Series events for 4 years in hopes of earning a coveted spot on the World Championship Tour. He has been Tour rated since he was 16, where he was ranked 243. Josh is now rated at 21, on the threshold to a monumental achievement. Yes, it's still a long and hard road ahead, but when you got that look, you know something special is in the works.
What’s new Josh? What have you been up to this year? More traveling than I've ever experienced! I haven't been home longer than 2 weeks since the QS season has started. I've been trying to stay busy doing events and going on as many photo trips as I could during the beginning of the year, since we didn't have too many events to do in the first half of our year. So where has the QS grind taken you to as of recent? The QS has taken me to Australia, Martinique, Japan, and South Africa. It's been a fun year so far being able to check out so many different countries.
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What has been your most memorable result on the QS? My best result for sure on the QS was winning the 3000 in Martinique last year but my most memorable result was making the semi at the HIC 4 star at Sunset Beach when I was 16. The reason this one was so big for me was because it was my first QS I ever did, and in every heat, I surfed against someone I looked up to. I remember when my semi started and I finally realized that I was actually in the semi and I was just tripping out. I looked at the guys I had in my heat and I didn't even want to surf, I was just so rattled I was still in the contest. I ended up losing that heat but after that contest I gained so much confidence in myself. You’re currently ranked in the top 25 in the QS leaderboard — how have you been dealing with the stresses and struggles of qualifying for the world tour? The way I've been trying to deal with my stress with the rankings this year is by not looking at the rankings at all. I'm usually the guy who loves looking at that stuff, breaking everything down but after last year I noticed I was just thinking of other guys too much and not myself. The QS is so hard that if you want to make it to the world tour you need to just be focusing a 100% on yourself and making sure you are doing everything to be ready for the next event. When you first started the QS grind, what was your goal on qualifying for the tour? How close are you to that goal today? When I first got on the QS last year I wanted to feel it out. Last year I was just cruising doing the events and trying to get comfortable with all the pressure going into heats. My goal this year would be to have a shot at qualifying going into the last two contest here in Hawai`i. Honestly, I don't know how close I am right now but we still have a long year ahead of us and a lot of big events, so I just hope I can put myself into a good position. What’s something you’ve learned on the QS grind that the average spectator wouldn’t realize? Something I've quickly learned on the QS is that it's not easy. When I first got on the QS I thought you just show up to events and surf as good as you can but it definitely doesn't work like that, especially if you want to try qualify. The amount of work I see guys putting in to get results is pretty crazy and it's not always fun but it's what we have to do now days if you want to compete against all those guys. With so much time on the road, how have you been staying fit for surf? This year I actually been trying to train a lot at the gym, anytime I'm home before events I go as much as possible. I got good program going right now down at Tactical Strength and Conditioning with Darin Yap. I really like his program he does and I feel better than I ever have felt before. He's been doing a
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lot stuff with Zeke Lau over the years and a lot of other amazing athletes so my brother Seth and I just jumped on that program. Zeke has been helping Seth and I out a lot this year he's been pushing us hard. Growing up in Town: what was this like? Growing up in Town is amazing! Especially where I live it's nice because it's outside of all the buildings and chaos. I couldn't have imagined growing up anywhere else, I don't think I ever want to leave this place.
How do you think Town has helped mold you into the surfer you are today? If it wasn't for the waves in Town I probably wouldn't surf the way I do today. It's a perfect place for a young kid to grow up surfing. We got a lot of waves down here for every level of surfing. It's a great place to train and work on surfing, but you also need to know when it's time to go up to North Shore. You can't get stuck down in Town and just surf those types of waves. Luckily, my parents loved driving up all the time so we can surf waves with a bit of power in it so we can get comfortable in bigger waves.
What are your favorite three waves in Town and why?
Favorite places to cruise in Town?
Kewalos, because almost every wave gives you the same opportunity. It helps us a lot to try new tricks and combos. Second, Waikiki Beach. This is the place I learned to surf and I didn't leave it until I was 10. It's actually really fun wave on a big south swell the right reminds me of Lower Trestles when it's good. And third, Bowls. I rarely go out here but when Bowls is bombing and breaking in the bowl it gets really fun. It's the closest wave we have in Town that holds North Shore power in it when it gets bigger.
My favorite place to cruise in Town is for sure Sandy Beach. When I'm home every weekend I'm always down there cruising all day with my friends. And what does the rest of the year hold for you? The rest year for me gets pretty busy. A lot of big events are about to start coming up. Pretty much from the US Open on I won't be home longer than a week probably until the winter season starts. It gets pretty wild with all the traveling we do, but I couldn't think of a better job to be doing. I love it! pau
BEN AIPA By Cash Lambert
f I told you that the swallowtail surfboard design - yes, the same shape of board that you surf on regularly at Kewalos and Bowls was inspired by the fluttering of a bird, would you believe me? As it turns out, watching the turning ability of a swallowtail bird is exactly how Ben Aipa had the idea for the board design that would have a monumental impact on the sport. This is just one of Benâ€™s innovations, too. Also add into the mix him pioneering the modern day longboard and the stinger design, along with competing in the Makaha International, the Lighting Bolt Pro and the World Championships in the late 1960s and early 1970s and serving as a coach to industry influencers like Sunny Garcia and the Irons brothers, the Hawaiian exudes nothing short of legendary status. We sat down with Ben to discuss how both the sport and Town has changed in his eyes, his keys to success in running a surf shop for nearly 5 decades, and his proudest accomplishments throughout an unprecedented and storied career.
LEGENDS / BEN AIPA Let's start from the beginning: What's the earliest surfing memory you have, Ben? I went to lunch with my cousin on a hot day, and we decided to go swimming down at Queens. So we were in the water near Baby Queens, and this loose surfboard was coming right at me. No one was around, so I thought to myself shoots, I’m going to get on this board and paddle. And no sooner did I paddle than the wave picked me up and I automatically jumped to my feet without thinking about it. I had played football, swam and dove competitively all my teen years, so it was natural somehow. The minute it happened, that was it. I felt the stoke and joy of riding my first wave. I thought to myself that’s it, I’m going to learn how to surf for the next 365 days. Which I did - A full year non-stop.
How did it grow from there? Once I learned how to surf, I was able to apply all the skills I learned in football to my surfing and coaching. I saw surfing through the eyes of a football player and a boxer, which I also did when I was young. This is what developed my style, and I instilled it into the surfers I coached. Some people called it power surfing. What was it like competing in the early days of the sport? It was just a few of us Hawaiians. Actually just Eddie Aikau and myself. It was more of a challenge, having to prove ourselves as Hawaiians in the surf because all those competitions were run by outside people. Your business, Ben Aipa Surfboards, was founded in 1970. How did it all start? At the time, was it a leap of faith or did you know there'd be success in it? I knew that surfing was changing and I knew I could be a part of it. So because of the change that was coming, I took bigger steps. I stuck my neck out in board design, stuck my neck out in riding surfboards in certain locations where you weren’t suppose to. By knowing the conditions of the surf, I saw it as a design challenge, which inspired me to create surfboards to meet the conditions. Like with Larry Bertlemann as a kid, I would drop him off at Diamond Head and walk back up the hill to go back to the shop. I'd turn and watch him at Lighthouse for a moment, and I could see what he was attempting to do, with the board he had in the conditions that were there. And I knew he was the future. So I went back to the shop and imagined the kind of board 54
dynamics he’d need, to get the maneuvers he was attempting done. What he was doing was futuristic. Watching him, I said to myself “he’s stinging the wave!” That’s how I developed the idea and name for the design. Running a business for decades is hard. Running a surf business for decades seems nearly impossible, yet you've done it. How have you continued to make a profit and stay with the times?
irst, by being a part of every aspect of surfing and it's future. But honestly, it comes from being able to listen and observe. When customers come to me, each one is different. Each one has certain goals. And I listen carefully to who they are and what they want, which allows me to see what they need. I can imagine the kind of board needed to be shaped, at the level they’re at, to help them move forward in their surfing. It’s a board for board business. Each board is a reflection of the person I’ve shaped it for.
Besides the sting designs, you also created the swallowtail and modern longboard. What was this process like? Surfing was changing and the need for more aerodynamic designs were obvious to me, so I was always looking for inspiration to create what I needed. The truth is, it's observation which creates inspiration. I was watching the Swallowtail bird, which is the quickest turning bird alive. In watching them, I saw what gave them their turning ability. It was their tail. So I incorporated that tail design into my boards. Again, Larry Bertlemann was the inspiration for the sting design. Just watching what the young kids were trying to accomplish in those days. And seeing how their abilities were limited by the board designs at that time.
As you look back, what are you the most proud of? For me, sharing what I’ve learned with those who want to hear it. If I could make the world of surfing better, what more could I ask for in this life?
All photos Tony Heff
Micah Moniz, in one of the most exclusive Honolulu hot-spots.
Kaito Kino, speeding up the hydrologic cycle.
Seth Moniz doesnâ€™t let losing one fin get him down.
Zeke Lau with blessings from above.
Kekoa Cazimero, taking the high road.
THE GLOBAL WATERSPORTS AND BEACH LIFESTYLE TRADESHOW
SEPTEMBER 8-10 2016 BOARD DEMO DAY SEPTEMBER 7
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SUMMER IVY By John Ellis
We all have to start somewhere, right? Well, let us introduce Summer Ivy to the world. She's an energetic, wave-shredding grom that made her debut to surfing at the ripe age of 11. Summer tapped into her competitive roots only four years ago by winning her age division at the T&C Grom Contest, showcasing a hunger that runs deep. Her lessons may have started with her mother, but the deep-seeded drive and power she's known for could be the product of John “Johnny Boy” Gomes. He was notorious for a heavy back foot, dumping buckets out the back, and for a personality that dominated the lineups. The goofyfooter is fused with power from her father and finesse from her mother, but it seems her infectious bubbliness is her own.
Now, at 14 years of age, Summer has already competed in over 75 contests. Recently, she has touched down in Cocoa Beach, Florida and San Clemente, California to try her hand at different beach breaks. As most professional surfers find out, preparation for adaptivity has been found in good training regimens – Summer is fond of Crossfit workouts, which could bring an edge on the competition. More so, her dedication and natural ability to surfing has been the highlight of her young career. Favoring a strong south-southwest swell, her stomping grounds have extended from Queens to Kewalos, and everywhere in between. Speaking with her, Summer exhibited a rare characteristic: courage to take on waves of consequence. It's an attribute that has proved to be rewarding against opposition in surfing. Summer
has the ability to make smart decisions in the lineup, defeating each opponent with charisma as she rips waves apart with “power and grace”. Who's your biggest influence, Summer? My mother – she's supportive and has always pushed me toward my dreams. Where did your surfing career begin? At Queens in Waikiki – my mother took me surfing and I caught a couple of waves right away. I was hooked instantly. When did you start surfing competitively? I was 11-years-old and heard about competitions around the islands. I found
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some information on them and entered. I won my first competition! It was the T&C Grom Contest at Queens. Do you find it challenging to juggle competitive surfing and school? Oh, yeah! My teachers would say, “you need to put school before surfing.” I would have tons of homework, but only wanted to surf. My mom was good about keeping me focused on school during the year. Do you see a future in competitive surfing? Yeah! I want to be on the World Tour and hopefully use that money to pay for nursing school. What's the atmosphere like in the grom ranks of competitive surfing from your perspective? There's a lot of positive influence. I have a lot of friends that I compete against and 68
we push each other. I look up to them.
How has your father influenced your surfing?
Any hobbies outside of surfing?
We have a good relationship. We hang out, have lunch, and go surfing a few times throughout the month. He's had some good tips for my surfing and he has a lot of connections to help me.
Volleyball. What advice would you like to give to other young wahine surfers?
What’s your favorite book?
Just go for it! Follow your dreams no matter what. If you really want something, don't hold back.
The Nancy Drew series.
How about a favorite pro surfer? Someone you look up to the most? Carissa Moore. Board that you like riding the most? 5'7” Jason Kashiwai. What’s your favorite meal?
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CALL TO ACTION: WITH YOUR HELP, THE TRASH WATER WHEEL CAN CLEANSE OUR SEAS By Kahi Paccaro
The rain came down hard last night but we awoke to crystal clear skies. Heavy rains created an ultra-realistic view as particulates from the air were caught by raindrops and dragged to the ground. On the pavement, those particulates met up with another form of debris as the heavy rains created gushing streams of pollution flowing downhill towards the sea. That all too familiar smell of salty air mixed with rotting trash barely phases him anymore. He’s been surfing at Ala Moana Bowls for 35 years and as Dave paddles into the juiciest wave of the morning, he can already foresee the bowl awaiting him. He smoothly gets to his feet as a fellow surfer duck-dives just in time to avoid messing up his line.
Quick eye contact with the duck-diving surfer reveals a smile of stoke with a hint of jealousy. It’s one of those waves where you know the surfer is about to get shacked and you wished it were you. Dave bottom turn stalls to burn off a bit of speed and perfectly positions himself for the barrel. As the wave morphs into an enveloping cocoon with an almost guaranteed exit, Dave focuses his sight on the prize but something catches his eyes. His fins abruptly engage something more than water and all of a sudden Dave finds himself being hurled over the handlebars without his board. Tube ruined, he knows what happened. It’s happened before and if we don’t do something about it, it will happen again.
ENVIRONMENT / The trash water wheel is a tool powered by the currents of the Ala Wai and the Sun. Attached to the wheel, a set of slowly spinning rakes grab the debris and loads it onto a conveyor belt, also powered by the wheel, that then empties into a trash container. Once the container is filled it is easily removed and replaced with a new one. So simple, yet so effective. The full container can be sorted for recyclable materials, inventoried, and what can’t be recycled will be sent to H-Power (the trash to energy facility) to help power Oahu. The data collected will be shared with the public to provide inspiration that will help change our consumer behaviors. Data such as where the debris is coming from, the amount collected, and things to avoid that create lots of debris. Trash was littered, overlooked by those that passed it, or simply blew out of the back of a truck. It made its way into onto the streets and into a storm drain. It’s journey down a culvert or a stream transitioned into the Ala Wai Canal. From there the current brought it out into the Ala Wai Harbor and into the lineup of Ala Moana Bowls. Nothing was there to stop it and Dave’s fins were a temporary impediment before the eventual journey into the North Pacific Garbage Patch only to be washed up on one of our beaches or a beach far away. This all too often scenario repeats itself after every heavy rain and will continue to
do so until we can stop the flow of debris. For cleaner tubes at Ala Moana Bowls the true solution is in changing consumer behaviors and better waste management within Manoa, Palolo, Waikiki, and Makiki areas. For cleaner oceans, it’s a worldwide paradigm shift away from single use linear thinking to circular sustainable designs and approaches that drastically reduce or eliminate waste. After all, pollution is the result of failed design.
That’s where Sustainable Coastlines Hawai`i, along with partners 808 Cleanups and Surfrider Foundation, come in. We are introducing a tool that will foster this awakening while also cleaning up the mess in the process.
This technology is not brand new. It has already been working in Baltimore, Maryland in a similar waterway. It has removed 420 tons of waste over the past two years - that's an average of over 1,000 pounds per day! It’s removed over 7.4 million cigarette butts, 20,000 single use plastic water bottles, and 320,000 styrofoam containers. With Hawai`i being the largest consumer per capita of styrofoam in the US, you can imagine the amount of plate lunches this machine would remove. Help us expedite the journey to debris free barrels on the South Shore of Oahu and let this project lead the way to inspire other counties, states, and countries to follow suit. Interested? You can learn more about the Trash Water Wheel and how you can help at sustainablecoastlineshawaii.org. Thousands already know about the project and the next step towards installation will take thousands more. Be part of the solution now by joining the journey and grab some friends along the way. The swell is sticking around for a few more days. Dave’s paddling out at dawn. It’s supposed to rain tonight. Kahi Paccaro is the Executive Director of Sustainable Coastlines. pau
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By Chelsea Jarrell
They’re the boys from Waipahu, on the island of Oahu who realized they had an affinity to harmonize. Full, overlapping voices as compatible as the tightly wound friendships on stage and behind the scenes. So what does it take for a reggae band to be a success on this island? Is it the pairing of seven Bob Marley birthday shots at Nancy’s, and lick at the dart board? “It’s the bond everyone brings. I think we have a head up on other groups because we are all from the same town,” said Rebel Souljahz vocalist Tunez Moananu. “We’re just a bunch of rebellious souljahz. That is the way we live, not caring what people think. We recently covered Justin Bieber’s “Love 74
Yourself” and right off the bat people are like, wha? But I'm telling you, it did good brah.” Bassist Shay Marcel recognizes the group’s hit song “Nothing to Hide” as the beginning of something special, which launched in 2008 then went on to win Best Reggae Album of the Year at the Na Hoko Hanohano awards in 2009. “It really does just take one hit song for people to recognize how good you are,” says Marcel. “Traveling has become a big part of it. Our next trip will be to headline the Northwest Roots Festival in Washington, then Oregon, California, then back home.” Radio station hits like single “Ms. Beautiful” and “Gotta Know Your Name” from the
most recent album Souljahz for Life (2013) have pushed the Souljahz to the top of the reggae scene. Showing off those buttery hums and poppy beats every year as headliner at Honolulu reggae expose, Majah Rajah—this year being no exception. It’s an exciting celebration of reggae artists to shower the people with music in unison. (Not to mention some pretty styling afterparties.) “With the boys, it’s that passion that we share,” says Moananu. I don’t even have to tell them how I feel, they know how I feel, You see where we’re from isn’t exactly the land of opportunity but people at home are really proud of us.“
Andrew Bubbah Hodges- Vocals Tunez Moananu- Vocals
We asked if Bubba or any of the Souljahz had done any crowd surfing to celebrate their success and the answer was not quite yet. “Nobody likes the fat boy look,” Moananu said. ”There was a time where we were pushing 300 pounds.” Maybe that luck will change this summer and we’ll get to see the Souljahz fly through the crowd as the group has slimmed down to the size of a solo sashimi roll since their beginning days. Until then, we’ll just have to get by listening to the sweet island jams coming from the stage. pau
Richard Peters Photo by S. Buddy Ah Nee
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Freesurf is pleased to welcome Kurt Steinmetz to the team as the West Coast Ambassador. “Growing up as a surfer has given me the opportunity to travel the world and meet amazing people along the way,” he said. “Photography has been an extension of the surf/lifestyle and a way to show what I see. I’m super excited to be a part of the Freesurf team and work with some amazingly talented people!”
In partnership with non-profit foundation Positive Vibe Warriors, Vans has released new designs of the Black Ball, a beach-friendly, low-top footwear style inspired by the ocean’s infinite source of creativity, joy and learning. With design influence captured by Vans Surf team riders, the Gudauskas brothers, Vans highlights the new Black Ball collection for men and women to celebrate their growing nonprofit foundation, Positive Vibe Warriors, and its commitment to spreading ocean awareness and water safety education. Together, Vans and Positive Vibe Warriors help raise funds to educate global communities on the positive impact of oceanic environments by hosting local surfing events, swim lessons, nature programs, lifeguard workshops and many more oceanfriendly activities.
The new Black Ball styles take on a cool color palette, reflecting the blue hues of the oceans and tidepools discovered around the world everyday. With comfort in mind, the Vans Black Ball features a lightweight UltraCush sockliner for enhanced breathability combined with a slim, tailored form for an all-day relaxed fit. Shop the entire collection at Vans.com/pvw and learn more about the foundation at www.positivevibewarriors. com.
4/13/16 12:54 PM
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Bret Surfboards has added Regulator tech grip pads to their surf equipment accessory line, along with performance surf cords as well. “The traction pads are crafted with the highest quality materials and designed through BretBoard team riders’ feedback, tested and proven on the North Shore of Oahu,” said Bret Marumoto. The pads also feature a double square grid pattern grip, 28mm kick tail , 8mm arch 3 piece design.
Hawai`i’s own Joel Centeio, the surf team manager for Hurley, was named Coach of the Year at NSSA Nationals. “The sport of surfing has brought us all so much joy, and I’m so blessed to call this a job and be able to give back,” he said. “What an honor to receive this award.” Owen Wright announced that he withdrew from the second half of the 2016 Samsung Galaxy WSL Championship Tour season, choosing to focus on continued rehabilitation following his December head injury. “It’s always difficult being away from the water for me,” Wright said. “It’s also a major challenge to give myself time to heal because I want to be back in the singlet so badly. That said, I understand that I have more rehabilitation ahead of me until that’s possible. I’m feeling better every day and I want to thank everyone for the support so far. I miss my friends and family on tour and I’m looking forward to seeing them all again soon. Thanks again for the support.” Prior to the start of the 2016 season, the Australian announced his withdrawal from the opening half of the year. While having
MOKU Rider Billy Choi Photo by Bob Carr
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INDUSTRY NOTES made considerable progress in his rehabilitation, Wright has chosen to continue his road to recovery throughout the rest of the year before returning to the elite level of competition. “Owen is one of the most impressive athletes to ever grace our sport and the WSL fully supports him taking the time he needs to return to 100%,” Kieren Perrow, WSL Commissioner, said. “He’s been sorely missed on tour this year, but I know that he’s in all our thoughts and we all look forward to seeing him healthy again and sharing the lineup with us.”
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In late July, Town & Country Surf Factory secured the win at the seventh and final leg of the 2016 Oakley Surf Shop challenge at Ala Moana Bowls in Honolulu. The single-day event matched up Hawai`i¹s favorite wave-sliding retailers in four-man teams to battle for a golden ticket to the national championship at Lower Trestles in San Clemente, California, October 6-7. With building swell looking promising for the contest and the teams excited to represent their respective shops, the event kicked off with lots of energy. Round 1 was full of paddle races to the channel marker and making sure team members claimed their best waves to get a chance to double (aka whammy) their score. In the end, HIC Ala Moana, T&C Surf Factory, Town & Country, and Hi-Tech secured their spots into the Final. The Final was a close race for the last few waves of the heat to determine the winner, but T&C Surf Factory had a clutch couple waves in the last set to put them on top of the leader board and that¹s where they stayed. Ironically, T&C was the only team that did not have a professional surfer in their mix and still took the win. They will join the other finalists from six other regions on Oct. 6-7 at Lower Trestles in San Clemente, California. For the full results, visit surfshopchallenge.com.
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The lineage of Waikiki Beach Boys runs deep through the waters at Queens. Arthur "Toots" Anchinges soaking up the talent in the historically rich seas Waikiki. Photo: Tony Heff