Page 1

Volume 11 Number 1

MADE

in Hawaii

Surfer: Jamie O’Brien

Photo: Sean Reilly


Free Parking


Cover Story

Just days before the Pipe Masters was set to commence, an approaching NW swell descended upon the North Shore. From Haleiwa to Velzyland, the Seven Mile Miracle was firing. A horde of hungry competitors and diehard locals swarmed surfing’s ultimate proving grounds. The best in the business would battle it out in an epic pre-Pipe Masters freesurf. I parked my car in front of the Billabong house and geared up around 7:15am. It was a cold morning by North Shore standards, but hardly a cloud in the sky. You could hear the ocean exploding onto the lava-slab reef from Kam Highway. I made my way down the beach access and took a seat in the cool damp sand. Jamie O’Brien was getting spit out of a heaving Backdoor nugget on a bright red Gerry Lopez signature Lightning Bolt. After three or four waves, the water calmed down and I darted into the lineup. Before I could catch my breath, the ocean began to pulse. I could see mountains of water marching toward the pack of hungry dawn patrollers. As I scurried into position, the wave began to double up. Jamie began tracking the beast from the outside, slicing through the crowd on Gerry’s retro single fin. The wave jacked up and Jamie hurled himself over the ledge. After almost gribbling on the bottom turn, Jamie got low and set his rail. The seven-foot behemoth went square and chucked a heavy lip into the flats. “It was one of those waves that was wider than it is tall,” commented Jamie. Water quickly sucked up the face, off the shallow reef, and over the falls. I snapped the photo from inside the gaping cavern as a back draft of spit sucked Jamie deeper into the watery blue vortex. Nearly escaping a Backdoor beat down; I pushed through the wave as Jamie was getting spit out and over the foam ball. A view I won’t be forgetting anytime soon. Thanks for my first cover shot Jamie O’Brien.


Contents

24 Buttons Reminiscing about a friend

34 Aperture This month’s candy

46 Dane Reynolds The most interesting surfer in the world

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06

Free Parking

08

Cover Story

14

Editor’s Note

16

News & Events

30

Roots

54

Shoots

56

Grom Report

60

She Rips

64

Board Story

68

Mahina Garcia

70

Year in Review

74

Industry Notes

80

Last Look


Photo: Alicia Franco


Sean Reilly

e Love™ PB Chocolat

Editorial Publisher: Mike Latronic

Carrot Orange Fusion ™

Managing Editor: Lauren Rolland Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Photo Editor : Tony Heff Art Director : John Weaver Staff Photographers : Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Mike Latronic, Chris Latronic, Sean Reilly Free Thinkers: Mike Latronic, Tiffany Hervey, Dainel Ikaika Ito, Sean Reilly, Jenna Roberts, Tyler Rock, Shawn Pila and Danielle Travis. Social Media: Sean Reilly Office Manager: Amy Withrow

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Ed Note

It’s over! Breathe. Go Surf! This is what it’s all about. The circus is gone and the fanatic surf hoards have dispersed back from which they came from... At least for a little while. But the waves are still here! And this is probably the most inspirational time to surf, since we just saw the best wave riding in the world go down in epic fashion. We have most of the waves to ourselves now to try our best. It’s our turn to try and get barrels like Kelly, throw ourselves aimlessly above the lip emulating John John and practice our World Championship winning claim after exiting a head dip at 3 ft sandbar, pretending we’re Mick on that final day at Pipe. Dream big freesurfers! But this doesn’t mean sessions aren’t going down and guys aren’t looking to charge. With the finest and most consistently majestic waves you’ll ever see in the world constantly barraging our shores, surf warriors from across the oceans are always on the prowl in search of riding the biggest, hollowest, steepest, best waves of their lives. Now that the tour season is over, there is no set schedule. Work is dictated when the surf comes up and when dozens of the world’s best can be found scattered throughout the lineups. There is no telling where or when the perfect session will be. But luckily the swells have been fruitful and those sessions stacked with talent were more then prevalent under many blue bird suns. Amongst the slew of surf party festivities, it’s always an honor and a pleasure to be able to attend and witness the opening ceremonies for the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. To make the event even more special this year, The Hokule’a and its crew were in attendance to honor and bless the competition and its invitees. It was an eerie, nostalgic feel to see the great double hull canoe that Eddie Aikau once rode… The traditional Hawaiian opening ceremony was an enchanting display as the invitees and alternates made a memorial circle with the great canoe during the paddle out; a visual offering that I feel was more than acceptable to appease the surf gods. And if that wasn’t enough, I also witnessed a 30g drone chopper go down while trying to film the circle. So if The Eddie does run this year, thank the crew of the Hokule’a, the Aikau family and the production team at National Geographic for over salting the offering table. But still keep your fingers crossed and pray for surf! We could always use it. As another year rolls by like the winter swells, we at Freesurf are most grateful for your continued support and aloha. On behalf of the crew, we wish you a Happy New Year! Chris Latronic Editor-at-Large


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Cestari / ASP

Heff

News & Events

2013 Billabong Pipe Masters Culminates - Fanning, Florence and Slater Claim Titles Mick Fanning has claimed his third ASP World Title in excellent conditions at the Billabong Pipe Masters in Memory of Andy Irons. The final event of the 2013 ASP World Championship Tour (WCT) season, the Billabong Pipe Masters culminated in solid 10 to 15 foot waves at the infamous Banzai Pipeline. Fanning’s last-minute heroics in both Round 5 against C.J. Hobgood (USA), 34, and the Quarterfinals against Yadin Nicol (AUS), 28, sealed his campaign for this year’s world surfing crown over a rampaging Kelly Slater (USA), 41. “The world title is something that takes a whole year, but sometimes it can feel like it boils down to the final day and the final heats,” Fanning said. Drawing compatriot Nicol in the Quarterfinals, Fanning once again found himself at a disadvantage early in the heat with his West Australian opponent racking up a number of high scores on his backhand at Pipeline. Needing an excellent score in the dying moments of the heat, Fanning dropped in on a second reef set, setting up for a tremendously deep backhand barrel before being spat out into the channel. With throngs of fans and media swarming him on the beach, Fanning awaited judgment of his final wave – a 9.70 out of a possible 10 for the heat win and the 2013 ASP World Title. 16

Meanwhile, John John Florence was also on a tear all day and threaded plenty of cavernous barrels showing off expertise, style and knowledge of his backyard break. Rewarded time and again by the judges, John John smoked the new world champ in their semifinal heat and was chaired up the beach as the winner of the 2013 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. “This is my second Triple Crown but it feels pretty special,” Florence said. “The first year, I wasn’t really thinking about it. I was young and just having fun. This year, I came into the Triple Crown wanting to win it, but I honestly didn’t think I had a chance until we got to the final day at Pipe. This result has me motivated for next year. It’s eating my inside how close I was, but I’m still stoked.” The final title to be had was the Billabong Pipe Master itself, and Kelly Slater his 7th title after defeating John John Florence in a hard-fought, 35-minute Final that ended with less than half-a-point separating the two. “It was a strange Final,” Slater said. “John John (Florence) and I both waited for a while and neither of us really got a score until late in the match. I knew it was going to be a sprint and it was probably a little advantageous not to have priority in the Final as I was able to go for a lot of waves instead of wait for those that took a while to eventuate.” BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS FINAL RESULTS:_1 - Kelly Slater (USA) 16.37_2 - John John Florence (HAW) 15.90 BILLABONG PIPE MASTERS SEMIFINAL RESULTS:_SF 1: John John Florence (HAW) 18.30 def. Mick Fanning (AUS) 5.00_SF 2: Kelly Slater (USA) 19.63 def. Joel Parkinson (AUS) 14.84


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Kirstin / ASP

News & Events

Of all the six* prime ASP qualifier events, the Vans World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach may well be the most challenging. Held every year at the famed peaks of Sunset’s massive walls, the Vans World Cup of Surfing brings together the world’s top athletes to compete in one of the most fantastic yet tricky lineups on the planet. Sunset Beach is well known for its consistency and size and from 2 to 15 feet contest administrator’s can validate that the servers will be challenged and the many faces of Sunset Beach will deliver a great day of surfing.

Cestari / ASP

2013 World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach

This year’s victor, young 20-year-old easy keel Lau is the embodiment of the New Age Hawaiian professional surfer. Having battled through different sizes, directions and styles of surfing at Sunset Beach- from f4 foot Sunset Point to 8 to 10 foot Sunset in the middle- Lau proved beyond a doubt that he is a force to reckon with on the pro tour and in the Triple Crown of surfing. Super-centered, scathingly fast and ridiculously powerful the 20 year-old went to work on everything mother nature put in front of him. Even the smaller days at Sunset Point Zeke proved to be a stand out and scored big points. In the somewhat medium to small size final, Zeke was very patient but slowly and surely built to score line to win. CJ Hobgood as wiley as ever, grabbed a last minute left on the horn and got tubed, but it was not enough to overtake Lau who had a series of great tubes and strong maneuvers to clinch the win.

18

Though Zeke is no stranger to the winner’s circle with a great amateur career as well as another win at Sunset Beach last year, this victory at the Vans World Cup marks his most shining achievement yet. “This feels like a dream come true,” said Lau. “I don’t even know what to say. That was the first final I made all year. To have come away with a win feels great. I just kept my faith and it came to me.”


Poullenot / ASP

Tahiti’s Michel Bourez claimed the title of the first jewel in the Triple Crown, the Reef Hawaiian Pro on November 24th, 2013. The 27-yearold took home the $40,000 prize purse and an early lead in the Sunset and Pipeline contests. Bourez built momentum through the earlier rounds of the competition and was clearly unstoppable by the final. He survived a late charge by Haleiwa local Fred Patacchia and was well clear of Jeremy Flores (France) and Dion Atkinson (Australia), who finished third and fourth respectively.

Cestari / ASP

Kirstin / ASP

2013 Reef Hawaiian Pro

It has been five years since Bourez scored the first major victory of his career at the Reef Hawaiian Pro in 2008, but Haleiwa still continues to draw out his best. Despite unusually small surf for Hawaii at the time of the event, Bourez put on a sterling performance toppomg the heat scores with 18.47 points out of 20 (9.87, 8.6). “It’s a really special place because it was the first time that I won, you know,” said Bourez. “Every year when I come back here I feel a good vibe, positive vibe, so that’s why I’m still here, every year... If you don’t win the world title, the Triple Crown is the next trophy to get. It’s really something that everybody comes to Hawaii to win. It’s something really special for everyone, for sure.”

Kelia Moniz Wins Swatch Pro China and Women’s World Longboard Title Congratulations to Oahu’s Kelia Moniz for winning her second consecutive ASP Women’s World Longboard title! The 20-year-old won the Swatch Girls Pro China hosted by Wanning over Australia’s Chelsea Williams, and cemented her place in surfing history. The biggest beach crowd of the week assembled to watch Kelia and Chelsea go head-tohead in the long lefthand walls of Riyue Bay for the finals. “I can’t believe it, to win another title here just feels so awesome. Earlier in this event I felt like I hadn’t really surfed at my best, so to get past Chelsea, who’s been absolutely ripping in every heat feels really good. I’m thrilled to take the title back to Hawaii and really proud. I’ve had great support here once again and want to thank the local people and Swatch for putting this great contest on.”


Rolland

Experience Oahu’s

News & Events

Photo: Zak Noyle

North Shore Way Of Life

Wyland Surf Art Show

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The 8th Annual Wyland Surf Art Show took place on the evening of December 13th, following the award ceremony of the Triple Crown of Surfing, despite the traffic that persisted from Sunset to Haleiwa. Longtime Wyland Gallery artists like Heather Brown, Christie Shinn, Walfrido and Troy Carney were present along with a few new artists including Two Crows and Dave Hobrecht. Taking place every year amongst the Triple Crown of Surfing, the Wyland Surf Art Show is dedicated to the growing surf art community and continues to expand each year. Nani Patterson, Wyland Gallery Haleiwa’s director of marketing, helps organize and hostess the event each winter and mentions that 2013’s party was especially unique because of the excitement from the finish of the Triple Crown. “It’s a little different because of course everyone was excited with the results from the Triple Crown, and it’s been very successful so far. Lots of sales, lots of collectors and repeat collectors, which is great.” Earlier in the season, Freesurf caught up with Triple Crown poster artist Christie Shinn in an interview, and got to recap with the featured artist at the Wyland Surf Art event. Christie spoke about the buzz leading up to the final day of the competition and mentions that it all feels bittersweet. “Every time I see someone with a shirt or a poster under their arm, it’s like a vote for my work, an endorsement, and I don’t think there’s a more spectacular feeling than that as an artist.” As for the success of 2013 spilling over into 2014, Christie says that she doesn’t want to expect anything. “I just want to keep doing what I’ve always done and make sure all the galleries and my customers are happy. If great new things come along, awesome.” Heather Brown, a renowned Hawaii artist and featured artist at the Wyland Surf Art Show talks about 2013’s Triple Crown. “I think this has been one of the best Triple Crown contests ever as far as weather, the amount of people that came out to support, the surfers and all the artists that are on the North Shore right now.” As far as what’s most rewarding about being part of Wyland Galleries, Heather says that it’s always the Surf Art Shows. “I feel like it’s when the most energy is on the North Shore. It’s great to have everyone together celebrating that.”


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Dombroski

News & Events Eddie Opening Ceremony The holding period for the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau is underway, running from December 1, 2013 through February 28, 2014. The traditional Hawaiian opening ceremony was held on Thursday, December 5th and the Aikau family along with hundreds of surfers and supporters came together in memory of legendary waterman Eddie Aikau. A memorial circle was formed during the paddle out, and surfers joined hands and lowered heads as the sun dipped into the water and flower leis were spread. The famed Polynesian voyaging canoe, the Hokule‘a, also made an appearance at the ceremony in Waimea’s waters, and stood as a symbol of the Hawaiian nation and Eddie’s legacy. The Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau event was established in 1984 and held at Sunset Beach, but by the next winter, the event was moved to Waimea Bay and has been a fixture there ever since. Celebrating its 29th year, The Eddie has only been held a total of 8 times, most recently in 2009. The event will only be held if and when waves at Waimea Bay reach the minimum of 20 feet required for this original big wave surfing event... the size that Eddie loved.

Heff

The Aloha Aina March Kauai’s Dustin Barca and Hawaii GMO Justice Coalition led a march through Haleiwa to protest Monsanto’s lease renewal on 1,033 acres of land on the North Shore. Surfers like Kelly Slater, Shane Dorian, Mark Healy, Sebastian Zietz, Makua Rothman, Walter Ritte and John John Florence gathered to collaborate for a better tomorrow, and for the future of the aina. Despite a thunder and lightening storm casting clouds over the town, hundreds of supporters marched on in demonstration against Monsanto and GMO’s, lighting up the streets with enthusiasm. Dustin Barca rallied the crowds with a loud speaker in hand and chants like ‘a‘ole GMO’, “GMO’s got to go’ and ‘hell no GMO’ were heard from various protestors. The event concluded at the Haleiwa Beach Park with live music, food and mingling of surfers and community members, all stand against Monstanto’s lease renewal and the effect of GMO’s on Hawaii’s land and its people.

24


Intro by Mike Latronic In almost every sport, there’s the training regiment. The sport’s specific goals. The athlete that is honed to be the best in their class. Buttons came into this world with all the abilities to be a natural waterman without doing a push-up. Surfing was just somehow in his DNA. Buttons Kaluhiokalani was among a handful of surfers who set the trends for modern progressive surfing in the 70’s. Whether it was tube riding, 360’s or classic carving, the loose spontaneity of Buttons’ surfing represented a time of freedom in Hawaii. This free surf style was the backbone of the cultural renaissance itself. Surfers considered themselves free spirits, Buttons lived it. The most resounding memory of Buttons is that he did it all with a smile. I can’t recall a sour moment with Buttons Kaluhiokalani. Ever. The man must have had his bad days, but for anybody that ever had the pleasure of crossing paths with him, they were almost assuredly greeted with a smile and a contagious sense of stoke. Buttons shared his blessed life with so many. Naturally talented and gifted in the water, Buttons loved the ocean, Hawaii and his family, and is survived by his wife, Hiriata, eight children and nine grandchildren. Deeply impacted by the loss of this man, the surfing world is ever grateful for the influence and impression left in the wake of Button’s legacy.

Merkel / A-Frame

Buttons


Nate / Freedom Riding

Sunny Garcia “I met Buttons when I was twelve. I came to shoot photos with Warren Bolster and stayed at the Off the Wall house, which is owned by Billabong now, but Buttons was at the house and I got to surf with him a couple of days. I will never forget those sessions and what a great surfer and all around nice guy he was. Buttons will be missed by people around the world.”

Kelly Slater

“The first time I ever saw Buttons was when Quiksilver did the movie ‘Mondo Extreme Experiment’ and I remember watching it and realizing that he was on a single fin doing all these crazy things, and I was thinking, ‘this is truly amazing, what he’s doing.’ Even if you put the surfing that he did back then- if you put him on a thruster and he did that today, everyone would still be in awe of what he was doing. The thing that resonated not only with me personally but everyone around the world is it just looked like he was having so much fun and just really enjoyed what he was doing out in the water. I think that’s the beauty of surfing- you get to go and just express yourself with a wave on a surfboard. Looking from the outside in, he looked like he was having a great ol’ time and that’s what we all search for, and that’s what every surfer wants to do.”

“When I was about 8 years old, I saw a surf movie with Buttons Kaluhiokalani and he immediately became my favorite surfer. He was switching stances and sliding 360’s in the tube and doing carving 3’s. Surfing just looked like more fun the way he did it. He surfed the way I wished I could mind surf. He had a fro Rob Machado would kill for and a physique in his 50’s of someone in their 20’s. He planted more seeds in people’s brains than he could have ever known. Buttons, we’ll all miss your stoke and big smile and seeing you at Chun’s giving surf lessons every day. Thank you for the inspiration and ideas.”

Lisa Scott Owen

Mick Fanning


Latronic

Pancho Sullivan “Ever since I was a little kid, every time I saw Buttons he was always gracious, always said hello. He embodied the aloha spirit. That’s really what I’ll always remember about Buttons, although I admire everything that he did in surfing because he contributed so much to the progression of the sport. He basically changed modern day surfing and made people look at riding waves a lot differently. But what I’ll always remember is his aloha spirit, because that’s always so important, and how you treat people in the water. He always seemed to treat people the samegenuine. Buttons had a really good spirit.”

Kainoa McGee

John John Florence

Latronic

“The memory that always sticks out the most to me is when I was younger and I used to walk from my house to surf Kaisers. That’s when floaters just started becoming a new move, a move that everybody was doing. I remember watching Buttons do it and thinking ‘ahh that’s so sick I can’t wait till I can do that.’ He was pretty much doing it on every single wave, and all the waves that I thought would be better for barrels, he was doing floaters. Then all of a sudden the set of the day came in and he probably thought, ‘okay, now it’s time to really get barreled’ and he went in and got the wave of the day. I was definitely as happy as I could have been, and for him it was just another day. Buttons always had a good heart and I always had a great relationship with him and respected him. Not just for his surfing, but for the person that he is and was.”

“Every time I saw Buttons around he was always just super psyched and super stoked to be in the ocean. I’m going to miss seeing him around. Ever since I was a little kid, he was always just telling us to go out there and have fun. He’s been a good family friend of ours for a long time, aloha Buttons.”

Ian Walsh “I think Buttons was one of the most inspirational Hawaiian surfers of all time and helped pave the way for generations of Hawaiian surfers to realize what their potential is. My earliest memories are just seeing old, old videos of him out at V-Land, just making surfing look like it’s fun. I think that’s the essence of what I remember him as and always will, is how much fun he had in the ocean and that really came through in his surfing and it’s something a lot for us as kids aspire to be. All competition and stress aside it’s supposed to be about fun at the end of the day and he really portrayed that and left a lot of us still leaning into that as the hub of our surfing. We all started this as fun and we’re all going to finish it as fun.”


Joli

Roots /

F.B.I. and Back Again How living the dream always brought Renaissance Man Chad Campbell home

By Ikaika If you look at the life Chad Campbell leads then you will see that the Universe loves this multi-faceted wave slider. This kanaka maoli/hapa haole F.B.I. [From the Big Island] possesses a creative, DIY skill set that has won filmmaking awards, saved surfers from getting pounded at Cloudbreak and everything in between. Chad is a son of Kona and one of the few surfers to travel the world on the surf industry’s dime for years without having to wear a contest jersey or charge a ridiculous wave for a cover shot. Instead, Chad burst onto the scene at 22 years old behind the lens as an F.B.I. indiefilmmaker that had a unique eye shaped from growing up in Kona. “It gave me a really good appreciation of open spaces and nature,” says Chad about a Kona grommet’s upbringing. “Big Island surfing sometimes requires a lot of time; hiking, 4x4-ing and just being in tune with little changes in conditions if you want to get good waves.” On Hawai‘i Island, he interacted with people on varying degrees of socioeconomic statuses, which had a profound effect on Chad’s perspective on the world and filmmaking. “I think growing up in Kona you could either run into some of the greatest people ever or some kind of sketchy people whether they were rich, poor, nice or scary, just being exposed to all walks of life affected me a lot I think,” Chad explains. “There is some negative elements– the ‘crabs in a bucket syndrome’ and some cases of small mindedness, but it’s all good overall because Kona and the Big Island in general is one of the raddest places on the Earth!”

30

With the help of Andy Carlson, the duo shot and self-produced ‘The 5th Symphony Document’, which won Movie of the Year at the Surfer Poll Awards in 2001. It was an ode to Kona and an introspective look into the mind of mainstream Momentum Generation surfers like Conan Hayes and Kelly Slater, as well as underground at the time local boys like, C.J. Kanuha and Darieus Legg. ‘The 5th Symphony Document’ was a game-changer for surf movies and was an artistic alternative to the rip-tear-lacerate-punt ‘surf porn’ that was prevalent in the industry at the time. It displayed Chad’s signature style of filmmaking, which he calls an ‘action-mentary’, where the interview subject is doing an activity instead of just a talking head on screen. ‘The 5th Symphony Document’ proved that an independent, artistic surf video was commercially viable, and was the predecessor for hits like ‘Sipping Jet Streams’ and ‘Castles In the Sky’. Ironically, it was during this project that Chad figured out he hated shooting surfing because there was still something inside of him hankering to be on the wave, instead of behind the camera. This is something that Chad still feels strongly about to this day. The early 2000’s– before the Internet put surfing’s DVD market into a triangle chokehold– it was easy for Chad to leverage his debut film’s success immediately into four movies over six years under his production company Folkore Movies. The Billabong-backed, 2002 biographical film, ‘The Blueprint: Based on the Life of Shane Dorian’ was another game-changer for Chad. He shared a mutual love of hip-hop with Shane-O and edited gangsta rap into the bio flick.


Roots / F.B.I. and Back Again Chad’s passion for hip-hop music grew as the years passed, and under the alias ‘Splinta the Rat’, he released four albums, becoming the soundtrack for video edits instead of actually doing the editing. He toured North America, opening for his friends from Kona dub-punk band, Pepper. As an emcee, Chad is on the conscious-tip with a lyrical style reminiscent of Slug from Atmosphere with witty punch lines and satirical observations on society. Throughout this form of self-expression he always kept it real and never forgot about where he came from. During his Splinta the Rat years, Chad never stopped surfing or making side cash through editing jobs. For three North Shore seasons he worked with Windowseat and edited segments for the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Those shows established the foundation for Oceanic Time Warner’s surf channel 250 and 1250HD content, which we all enjoy watching live surfing on today. When he wasn’t touring with Pepper or working on editing jobs, Chad would bail the country and post up in Fiji for a season as a Tavarua boatman. This gig, which he still maintains today, always got him ridiculously barreled and recharged his creative energy. Perhaps, Tavarua’s remote location and his love of books keeps him grounded and inspired.

“I’m no saint, but I try my best to stay positive and if I can help with something I will,” says Chad. Currently he is cutting a video pro-bono for Pua Case and her efforts to preserve the pristine beauty of Mauna Kea. He embraces projects where “the cause is just and intention is pure” and is willing to work for free for the greater good of humanity. Perhaps, Chad’s greatest contribution to his hometown and roots is the Kona Surf Film Festival. He started this event in 2003 and it’s grown exponentially over the last decade. “The 10th Annual Kona Surf Film Festival presented by ALTRES feels really good and it’s a lot of work of course but I think the community appreciates it because it’s a good place to reconnect and […] I believe that these kind of events really can bring some good things in to the community–awareness of environmental concerns or cultural happenings, or artistically inspire people,” explains Chad. “I’ve been really, really fortunate and lucky to have lived, and lead the life I get to, so it’s the least I can do try to reciprocate that a little bit.” pau


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Latronic

The Most Interesting Surfer in the World. By Chris Latronic

Living the dream as a glorified professional free surfer and sometimes competitor, Dane Reynolds started surfing as a hobby just to compete with his childhood friends. But as they all grew up, most moved on to other things while Dane kept at the sport. Dropping out of school to surf professionally, his style, power and raw creativity on waves were noticed early on. Showing the industry’s elite that this Cali-bred surfer was the real deal, Dane quickly proved he was ready for the spotlight. Going on epic Taylor Steele filmed surf trips with legendary surfers like Andy and Bruce Irons, Taylor Knox and Kelly Slater in his young teenager years, the ‘young gun’ phenom went on to make 17 plus surf films and in 2008 and finished 2nd on the World Qualifying Series, earning a spot on the coveted World Championship Tour. But after a mediocre competitive push, in 2011 Dane suffered a


As a new chapter unfolded in this surfer’s life, Dane rebounded, evolved and bounced back, continuing with career-making surf films, winning Surfer Poll awards and even getting inducted into the Surfing Hall of Fame. Dane is also taking his film craft a step further with a recent directorial debut with the film ‘Slow Dance’ featuring fellow surfing wanderlust companion Craig Anderson. The Ventura local still competes in contests, with most recent endeavors being the recent 2013 Triple Crown Of Surfing events at Haleiwa, Sunset and a Vans wildcard entry into the Pipe Masters championship event. Dane also made a huge move in the social media realm in pursuit of a wildcard seed at the Hurley Pro Trestles earlier in the year. @sealtooth was revealed and the world’s undeniable support to see Dane Reynolds compete was justified in an online verbal cat fight and voting battle against unassumingly very popular East Coast surf junior Cam Richards. Long story short, Dane’s popularity as an international surfing icon trumped Cam’s eastside conglomerate, even with the help of that guy who played Ray Charles. Either way, it was a mildly entertaining treat amongst the nonsense on the Facebook news scroll. It all comes down to surfing and for the time being, Dane is a seasoned vet still in his prime and ready to do… something! We don’t know exactly what. But we sure want to be there when it happens… Just to see… And we’re still not completely sure why. While Dane was on the North Shore, we were able to sit down and talk Dane. The Freesurf crew was invited to the Sunset Beach accommodations, a few breaks away from his usual stay at the beachfront Quiksilver House. Dane was very pleasant, gracious and characteristically cool.

Interview by Mike Latronic Transcription by Lauren Rolland People have mixed views of coming to Hawaii, being in Hawaii, experiencing Hawaii and I’m sure for everybody there’s some good some bad. What’s been your surf experience in Hawaii? Coming here as a young, aspiring professional from California, you feel like you’ve got a target on your back and everyone wants to see you fail and wants to keep you off of good waves and… give you a bad experience. I’m not saying everyone, but it’s just the competitive thing. And maybe there’s probably some jealousy from other guys who haven’t been so successful at whatever, and think maybe you’re not

Nikki Brooks

knee injury that forced him to withdraw from the tour’s first 3 events. This contributed to a lack luster year and Dane’s eventual walking away from the ‘Dream Tour’.


as deserving of your success because you can’t do well here. And of course they don’t’ want to see you do well either, so through my teenage years coming here was pretty stressful and intimidating. And the crowds and the waves and just the scene in general is still intimidating. But it doesn’t really affect me as much now. I’ve come here before and not been that psyched. I usually stay at Pupukea. For a while I was so over surfing with crowds and constantly being judged. Every time you walk down the beach, you just feel like you’re being judged, ya know? And every time you surf it’s a competition and there’s a lot of pressure, and for a while I kind of shied away from that and would just basically surf between Ehukai and Pupukea everyday, because I was staying there. controlled environment and it’s like this And what about this year? This year has been a lot different, I’m staying at Sunset so I have to drive to check the waves anyways and I just kind of made a conscious effort to try and stay clear of Pupukea and the ‘easy’ waves. I say ‘easy’ meaning crowd-wise and pressure-wise, there’s not much focus there. I came here just coming out of an injury and was really psyched on surfing and just wanted to try to make a solid effort at trying to get the best waves that I could here, and give myself the best opportunity and make the most of my time here. And I’ve been having a really fun trip this time. I’ve been surfing at Sunset when it’s good. I had tons of really fun surfs at Sunset on that north swell couple weeks ago. Not the big day but like two or three days after there was hardly anyone out and it was just really fun. And then on the same swell dropping I had a really fun surf at Rocky Point when there was nobody out. And then just some fun days at Off the Wall as well. Just trying to hit all the spots that are worth coming here for, instead of just shying away from everything. Some people say you are one of the best surfers in the world. It’s interesting because I think about back to when I was a kid and I was so obsessed with being the best out of my group of friends. And then once I got there… it’s a lonely place. It’s not cool to be the best. Now all of a sudden you’re separate from the group. I think that I learned a valuable lesson there with what made me happy. After that I kind of made it just a personal goal to be the best I can be. I do enjoy competing and that’s one avenue of proving yourself I guess, or testing yourself, or even improving yourself, and it is a very competitive environment. But the free surf scene I think is just as competitive in a different way. It’s like a weirder, less 50

weird competition of cool that’s pretty weird to me as well. So I don’t know where I fit into any of that, but I’ve kind of just settled into trying to be the best that I can be, and I’m still obsessed with surfing and getting better. Tell us more about your thoughts on free surfing. I’ve been kind of... I’ve gotten kind of a little bit… I don’t know what the word is but… jaded with the free surf scene because the battle of cool, the competition of cool is a little bit weird. I’ve been a little bit more into contests again lately, but it would be a huge investment of time and effort to try to get back on the tour. I definitely don’t regret leaving because it’s all learning experiences. I’m just trying to figure out what makes me happy and what doesn’t. At this point I’m fortunate that my sponsors are putting me in a few events, the ones that are some of my favorite events during the year. I just feel like there’s a lot of lack of substance in the free surf world, and I think it’s kind of cool the way the contests have a formula of black and white, right and wrong, win and lose. Why do you surf? It’s kind of an addiction I guess. It’s fun but I find myself going insane a lot when things aren’t working for me. When I have a bad session, can’t catch

a wave at Rockies, fall on a good air or whatever. It’s almost like a video game or something. You just get addicted to it and want to do it as much as you can and beat the game. Get to the next level. And I enjoy the freedom and creativity of riding a wave. I think it’s actually probably the fact that waves are like a commodity and they’re hard to come by. And it happens rarely, you’re rarely in the groove and you feel like your backs against the wall with surfing, it’s always challenging and always difficult. I feel like that’s a big part of why it’s addicting as well. That you’re not going out every single day and getting perfect barrels and making the best air of your life, ya know? I think the fact that it’s so difficult is what draws me back constantly. What are you thinking about when you go into some of the stuff you do? Not thinking. And when you are thinking you do it really poorly. It’s just a feeling and it’s a sensation. When you have no thought in your mind and its pure reaction, that’s the only time that you’re even going to surf well. You can’t be too aware of what you’re doing, you just have to go off of reaction.


That heat at Sunset, was unbelievable…

the, like psycho left with one second left.

champion some day?

I really wanted to beat him, I’ve never beat Kelly.

I actually had some good waves at the end too where I just did some silly bobbles; it was really choppy but, someday. Hopefully I’ll get him at Pipe, that’d be cool.

I don’t know. I never really put that much emphasis on World Champion. I don’t even know what it is or means. I just think back to that lesson from when I was a kid, and about ow being the best is a lonely place. You just get a target on your back…

Tell us more about that heat. On confidence. I always approach heats with Kelly really nervously. I want to at least retain my dignity and just at least not look silly. Cuz he’s just so good at surfing heats. I think that frame of mind is why I never beat him. So I went out in that heat just like, ‘I’m going to beat him, I can beat him, I know I can beat him, I’m going to beat him.’ I noticed surfing at Rockies the other day I had this perfect little bowly one, and I pulled in and started pumping and was like, ‘Oh I’m not gonna make it!’ and then sure enough I didn’t make it. And then the next one- was like the same wave- and I was like, ‘I have to make this, I’m going to make this, this is my last opportunity, I’m going to make this’ and I made it. And I swear confidence is so much. So I just tried to go out in that heat like, ‘I can beat him, I know I can beat him and I’m going to.’ I was so psyched on trying to beat him and then he did that at the end (laughing) he got

I never really believed in myself. You were talking earlier about people claiming that I am one of the best or whatever and whether it’s satisfying enough, and it’s not satisfying at all. It doesn’t really penetrate my lack of confidence. But I’ve been really trying lately to just believe in myself and know that I can do it. And been trying to apply that to that last two contests because the two contests prior to that, Trestles and France, I just had zero confidence because I had a broken hand and wasn’t able to really free surf. Coming here and doing these last two events I was just trying to tell myself, ‘I’ve got it, I can do this, I’m good enough.’

What is the agenda for Dane Reynolds? I’m not really sure, my routine the last couple years has been to come here (Oahu), do this, these events and then go home through January and a good chunk of February. And then go to the Gold Coast for the Snapper contest, which Quiksilver has given me a wildcard to the last few years, but I’m not really sure if they’re going to this year because I know with ZoSea it’s all changing. The sponsor doesn’t pick the wildcard anymore.

It’s weird cuz I feel like I can get big scores… I just feel like everybody has one-up on me in some way. I don’t even know how to explain it.

I feel like the last two years I’ve been doing a lot of stuff and this year I want to dedicate 100% to something. I’m not really sure what yet, but I’m going to have to do some soul searching next month or so, and figure it out.

You think you’d want to be a world

pau


Shoots /

Dane Grady

T

his image was taken during a tropical, crisp sunset at the end of a highly enjoyable Hawaiian summer. I wanted to create something different with my camera and the ocean this session, I was aiming for a slow shutter speed effect coupled with the clarity of a transparent wave. Certain waves under the right conditions provide an amazing translucent effect when they break. It took me a while to figure out which waves will provide this. Luckily this day had plenty to offer and I nailed one out of the fifty or so attempts. I love the way this image turned out, as I have never seen one quite like it, even with the saturated scene of wave photographs these days. What stands out most is the way the clouds look through the wave, like warm cotton candy through a silky clear curtain of water. There’s so much motion and energy in this image and it is a rare image for myself and I will cherish it forever.


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De Roulet

Grom Report / Noa Patrick Kaiuluokealaula Mizuno

By Sean Reilly Hometown: Summer St., Kuliouou, Oahu DOB: December 6, 1998 Height/Weight: 5’6, 130 lbs. Stance: Goofy Home Break: Kewalos/ Sandys Go-to Board: 5’8 Channel Islands Al Merrick DFR Sponsors: Quiksilver, Channel Islands Surf Boards, Oakley, Da Kine, Nixon

Noa Mizuno has taken the NSSA Hawaii Juniors division by storm. When this Punahou freshman isn’t getting drained at Pipe, he is standing tall atop the podium. With wins on the Big Island, Maui and Kauai, Noa has proven he is no “one trick pony.” A contender in all conditions, Noa’s passport could easily be mistaken for a veteran’s on the World Qualifying Series. This 15-year-old super grom has already surfed the likes of Tahiti, Fiji, Bali, Japan, Mexico, France, California, New York and Singapore. On Black Friday, while you were weaving through a horde of hungry consumers looking to score the new Elmo doll and a pair of fuzzy 56

pajamas, Noa was weaving through a horde of the most accomplished surfers in the world looking to score some of the gnarliest waves Banzai Pipeline has to offer. This grom charges!

matter if there’s 100 guys in the water, they’ll still go out and shake everyone’s hand. Surfing there was my favorite thing of all time. What is your go-to maneuver?

But this talented goofy footer isn’t just a surfcrazed competitor; Noa is a fun loving jokester and a passionate fisherman. Between the surf contests, travel trips and fishing excursions, Freesurf got a chance to catch up with the young shralper. What is your first memory of surfing? I was three or four and my dad took me to Waikiki for the Rabbit Kekai contest. I think it was my first contest. I remember going through my first couple of heats, it felt like I was catching 8 footers! Favorite surf trip? I really enjoyed myself surfing Teahupo’o in Tahiti last spring. It was probably the best trip of my life! Caught a couple really good waves. The guys are super cool over there. When someone paddles out, it doesn’t matter who you are, they shake your hand. They’ll shake the hand of everybody in the lineup. It doesn’t

I don’t want to be a one trick pony. I want to be an all around type of guy. Someone who can do airs, get barreled, good at front side/backside, hacks and carves. I just want to be one of those all around guys, like the world tour guys, like Andy (Irons). Andy was really good. Same with Kelly (Slater), Parko and Julian (Wilson). Those guys are well rounded and they’re known for everything. That’s what I try to base my surfing around. I got to keep my mind open and do everything. Who are your favorite surfers and why? This season I’ve been watching Seabass a lot. He’s been really energetic and throwing huge airs and huge carves. He’s really fun to watch. And Mason Ho, he’s one of the most exciting surfers to watch. And the last guy I saw at Backdoor was Dane (Reynolds). He got super barreled, came out and did a huge air. I mean everyone’s ripping!


Latronic

Grom Report /

Do you have any friendly rivalries? Seth Moniz, Kaulana Apo and Imai Devault. That’s been the rivalry since day one. That’s the pack. They are my rivals, but they’re my best friends too. We hang out a lot and I’ll call them all up for free surfs. They are all at such a high level. I want to surf with them because they push me. We’ll get into paddle battles, and there’s moments… but we’re all just having fun. But when we’re in a contest something has to click. Seth, Kaulana, Imai and I have been together in a couple different finals before. But we’re not really thinking about friends, you have to think about yourself. It’s kind of a bummer when you have to paddle battle and snake your friends. Have you snaked one of your buddies in a contest before? Imai. It was the final at the Arnette Cashpot at Bowls. Seth won the final, and Kaulana was in it too. I snaked Imai on the only good wave. It was the only wave he could go on because it was really inconsistent that day. He was so pissed at me, I can’t even explain how pissed he was. And he was staying with me too. We didn’t talk. I had to say sorry. Next time I’m just going to wait outside and get my own wave. I’m not going to take anyone else’s wave. Who is your surf celebrity crush? I had a crush on Kelia Moniz when I was younger. All the Moniz boys used to give me crap. I think she’s still my crush, but she’s pretty much my sister. The boys don’t roust me for it any more. What are your goals? For now I’m working on getting exposure and getting myself out there. I’d like to be the number one Hawaii seed going into Nationals and eventually win a National Title. And I know everyone who surfs wants to be on the world tour, but for me, I just want to be a good role model and get the younger kids psyched. Surfing is all about having fun. Got to keep having fun and keep surfing. Recent Accomplishments • Noa Mizuno: France. A video edit by Orion Owens. • 1st at NSSA Banyans Open Juniors & Explorer Juniors, Big Island, 2013 • 1st at NSSA Lahaina Explorer Juniors, Maui, 2013 • 1st at NSSA PKs Explorer Juniors, Kauai, 2013


Sarah Lee

She Rips / Kahanu Delovio

By Lauren Rolland Full Name: Kahanu Keola Delovio Birthday: 7/29/1998 Age: 15 Hometown: Kailua-Kona, Hawaii Home break: Banyans Stance: Regular Favorite post session grinds: Acai bowls Sponsors: Hawaiian Pro Designs, Sticky Bumps, Boobie Shack, Crush Sunglasses, Mokulele Airlines and BioAstin.

Brown eyed and bushy tailed, Kahanu has the cheerful personality to match her snappy skills in the water. The Big Island local recently caught Freesurf’s attention at the Verizon Hawaii Surf Team tryouts on Oahu (congrats on making the 2014 Qualifying Squad!), but this teen has been training for success since the age of 9. The third oldest out of 6 other siblings, Kahanu is part of a surfing family, gaining an initial interest in the sport from her dad. “My dad grew up surfing so when we were little, he always took us out on his board,” describes the 15-year old. “I was always surfing, just never really into it competitively.” That was until Kahanu made the decision to stand out from her siblings and chase a dream- to surf professionally and share a personal passion with the world. With role models like Carissa Moore, Bethany Hamilton and her parents, this surfer girl has the dedication, focus and natural talent to be a serious contender in the competition. Although lacking a main sponsor,

‘Little Delovio’ isn’t without support and local love. “Thank you to all my sponsors that have helped me be where I am today and the person that I am today,” remarks Kahanu with gratitude. The Hawaiian/Portuguese wahine stands 4’8 (and a half) feet tall, but is growing quickly in mind, body and spirit. Did we mention Kahanu’s surfing abilities are also quickly making great strides? What made you decide to turn surfing from a hobby into a career? I wanted to find something that I could make what I love. When I was 9 I fell in love with surfing. And I just took off after that- I couldn’t stay out of the water! Everyone in our family surfs, but I’m the only one who really wants to take it seriously. What are the advantages/disadvantages to growing up surfing on the Big Island? There’s definitely disadvantage because there are no beach breaks, so that’s definitely what I lack in. There are mostly reef breaks and point breaks here. I think it’s definitely harder growing up on the Big Island than it is on Oahu because there’s not as many coaches or publicity. But there’s definitely a lot of people on the Big Island that want to help and support you, and there’s a lot of people here that are welcome to helping you.


SML

She Rips /

Dream travel destination? I really want to go to Australia and maybe Tahiti. Who would you bring with you?

Trying to go bigger. I try to challenge myself by doing bigger stuff and just pushing myself harder and harder, reaching for higher goals and not settling for what I already have.

I’d bring my family because one time I went to California for 2 months and it was fun, but if my family were there it would have been so much more fun.

For me it’s really hard to focus on school and at the same time focus on surfing, especially when there are waves. But this past year I changed schools. It’s harder, but it has definitely pushed me in the right direction and makes me want to work harder so I can get good grades and keep up my surfing.

I would also take Summer Macedo.

Hidden talents?

Favorites wave on the North Shore?

Singing and playing the ukulele. I used to dance hula a lot and I still try to dance, but it has kind of been pushed to the side.

I really like Gas Chambers. Oh and Velzies. I like Sunset too. Your ultimate goal in life: What are you most known for in your surfing? Some people say that I’m a fast surfer. That and powerful. But I like powerful more than snappy. What tricks are you working on? I’m trying to do airs. But mostly just smoothing out my surfing and focusing on certain stuff at certain times to polish my surfing, and make it that much better. I’ve been trying to focus a lot on physical training to help me balance and stabilize. What challenges you?

62

My main goal is I want to make it on the World Tour and also at the same time spread the love of Jesus to other people. I also really want to focus on my character. Like just being a nice person and a good role model for the next generation to come. And being someone who is remembered not for my surfing but for my attitude and my kindness. Last words for the Freesurf audience: Before you talk, listen. Before you react, think. Before you criticize, wait. Before you pray, forgive. And before you quit, try. pau


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Board Story / Dane Reynolds, the Craftsman By Chris Latronic In our Board Story section, we tell stories of great surfboards from the people who made and rode them. In this issue, we follow a board carved by the modern day surfing virtuoso Dane Reynolds. Dane’s surfboard was ridden at the 2013 Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa, where the distinguished phenom battled a plethora of wave conditions.

nose and the tail. The board was basically designed to go fast and be maneuverable.

But thanks to this ambiguously produced Channel Islands inspired prototype, ‘Danger’ went on to a 5th place semifinal finish. How was this genius contraption conceived? Fortunately, Dane was in Hawaii and was very happy to share with us his Board Story.

This board I shaped in May (2013). I was surfing with Taylor Knox a lot at the time and he rides really different equipment than me and he’s equally crazy about it. He’s really focused on getting a lot of drive and momentum out of his board. Most of my boards are really skatey and more built for beach break stuff. I was surfing Trestles with him a lot and wasn’t too stoked on the way my boards were going, so I tried one of his boards and the drive was really refreshing. I think everybody’s craving a

The board: 6’0, 19 x 2 and 3/8 with a pretty flat deck. It’s got quite a bit of volume and width, pretty pluggy for a 6’0. It has a lot of width in the

What made you want to make this board and what was the process of how you started to do so?


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Board Story / Dane Reynolds, the Craftsman turns. Only one of them worked, but I’ve taken it on lots of trips and it’s still in one piece and it still works really well. I’ve been having lots of really fun sessions on it. The Haleiwa contest was really small and I think it saved me there. I usually ride- in small waves- really flat, fat surfboards, like in California and stuff like that. But Haleiwa is a different wave, and especially when you’re going backhand you need to really be getting vertical and multiple times in a row. This board worked perfect for that with the big hip to turn off of. What was your thought process behind using the board for the competition?

little bit more drive out of their equipment these days. I went home and shaped a couple boards with that in mind, just tried to make it really flat as far as the rocker goes, with big hips to turn off of, so you’re using the rails more than the bottom contours for turning. Basically more geared toward flat waves and getting more distance out of your

I’m not too eager to ride anything that I shaped. It was just what I was riding and liking out here on all the small days at Rockies prior to the event. It’s a little bit nerve racking to ride your own shape in the event because you are doing something different, and if you do do poorly, people are going to pick that out. But I felt really confident in the way it was riding on waves before the event and through the event as well, I never really wished I rode a different board. pau


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Mahina Garcia

The bronzed and beautiful face of Mahina Garcia graces more than just Sunset Point and Pupukeas on a longboard. Although the 19-year old loves a good surf, dedication and focus have pointed her toes down a path in the modeling industry. You might recall seeing this familiar local beauty in commercial modeling with companies like Target, Nordstrom, San Lorenzo Bikinis, Arhaus Jewels, GQ, Adidas and most recently Waiola Coconut Water, plus acting gigs with Hawaii Five-0 and recent co-host to Chris Latronic in Board Stories Television on OC16.

Behind The Lens with Hawaii’s Top Model

Dombroski

By Lauren Rolland

Daughter of Hawaiian surfer Kai ‘Borg’ Garcia, this femme fatale has the confidence of dad and the striking features of mom. The combination of power and natural beauty is a winning one, as Mahina has worked with Niche Models and Talent since the age of 14. Landing her first big job with Target as a seasonal back-to-school and bikini commercial model, Mahina’s career has only continued to climb. The Perks An extremely lucrative profession for this island girl, Mahina has spent the last few years of life jet setting around the states to places like Los Angeles, Miami and Texas- even places like Sandra Bullock’s vacation home on Tybee Island in Georgia. “The only reason I continue to do it is for the money. And as long as it stays this way, I’ll hold onto it,” Mahina remarks. Setting Goals When modeling ceases to provide income, this businessminded woman has the desire to follow in the footsteps of her grandmother as an entrepreneur. “My grandma owns a few really successful businesses on Kauai and I want to open future doors.” Already, Mahina and her grandmother are planning for shop space on Oahu, and the goal is to get things up and running by mid 2014. Ultimately, this local girl wants to make enough money to live on Oahu, be happy and travel. Mahina plans to return to Miami this month and also hopes to gain a few passport stamps from the high-end fashion destinations of Paris, Japan, New York and London in the near future. But this woman is waiting till she’s physically and mentally prepared to conquer these feats. “It’s a crazy industry, it really eats away at you because there’s constantly competition around you. You need to be mentally strong and you need to be able to take criticism. You can either take it personally, or you can take it as a job. For me, I take it as a job instead of making it who I am.” Realities of the Industry- “Modeling is harder than people think.” Coining herself as an athletic girl, Mahina stays slim by eating healthy and practicing pilates, yoga, crossfit and hiking. But just because the 5’9 figure maintains a healthy


“I’m not ashamed to talk about it,” she responds. “I was called fat and I struggled alongside many young girls when I was in the midst of things.” But this judgment is exactly what has led Mahina to her mantra; confidence and inner beauty is key. “Be the best you can be, but stick to who you are. Always have a great personality because that’s what clients remember. Be humble, treat people the way you want to be treated and never compare yourself, ever.” The Flipside

Team rider Ivy Cerrone ,Photography by Mike Cerrone

lifestyle in Hawaii, this doesn’t make things any easier in the cutthroat industry. In fact, believe it or not, the most challenging thing Mahina has dealt with in this profession is her weight.

Mahina says the most fun part about her job is learning the tips and tricks of hair and make-up. As a co-host on Board Stories Television with Chris Latronic, Mahina mentions the most fun part about this job is getting to interview friends and also seeing the outcome of all the work put into it. “I was happy Mike Latronic gave me the opportunity to start working with Board Stories, and I’ve learned a lot from Chris and Tyler.” The model also adds that “It amps up my resume, opens opportunities and gives me a different perspective of being in front of the camera.” pau

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Up & Riding


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Hawaii Masters Team Wins Gold at ISA’s / April With five Hawaii athletes in six different medals, Hawaii reigned supreme and defended their gold title as number one team at the 2013 ISA World Master’s Surfing Championship. Mike Latronic and Sunny Garcia took individual gold medals while Love Hodel, Kalani Robb and Rochelle Ballard took home bronze, silver and copper respectively.

Tweddle

2013 Year Tweddle

Tweddle

Rock

An epic paddle session at Jaws kicked off 2013 with clean, 18-foot and well attended waves. Matt Meola was credited with the wave of the day, but there were a lot of good ones to be had by all. Noted in the books as a historic paddle-in day at Jaws, the crew of big wave chargers redefined what’s possible and will only continue to test the limits.

Tweddle

New Year’s Jaws Swell / January

Third Reefing on Opening Day at Volcom Pipe Pro / February

Junior’s Take Home 3 Gold Medals at ISA’s in Nicaragua / June

After a few “lei days” on the North Shore, the Volcom Pipe Pro kicked off in draining 4-6 foot barrels (with the occasional 8-footer) at Pipeline. Opening Day saw Kawai Lindo’s perfect 10 barrel (that thing was deep) and Makua Rothman posting the day’s highest combined total – 16.86 out of 20.

Of the 4 gold medals offered in the 2013 ISA games at Playa Santana in Nicaragua, Hawaii took home 3- a feat that has never before been accomplished. Josh Moniz took home the 18 & Under Men’s Champ title, while Tatiana WestonWebb matched this in Women’s 18 & Under and Mahina Maeda also took home gold in the Womens 16 & Under division.


Rommel Gonzales

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Honolua Bay is saved for public use / May

Hawaii Masters Team Wins Gold at ISA’s / April

Big Wave World Tour Now Part of ASP / May

With five Hawaii athletes in six different medals, Hawaii reigned supreme and defended their gold title as number one team at the 2013 ISA World Master’s Surfing Championship. Mike Latronic and Sunny Garcia took individual gold medals while Love Hodel, Kalani Robb and Rochelle Ballard took home bronze, silver and copper respectively.

The Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) International announced the acquisition of the global Big Wave World Tour (BWWT) in May 2013, with arrangements for support in 2013 and formal sanctioning commencing in 2014. Now part of the ASP family, respected BWWT surfers will join top ASP surfers in competition with waves in the 25-foot-and-above range.

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in Review

Koa Rothman’s Tahiti Wave / May

Over-hyped Swell in Town / Summer need text.

There’s almost no swell more hyped than the first big south swell of the summer season. And everyone who was anyone knew about this one, especially Koa Rothman and his friends. Starting with paddle-in conditions, many surfers were pushing the limits, but the standout of the day was undoubtedly the wave that landed Koa the cover of Freesurf’s June issue.


Honolua Wins ISA Longboard Champion Title / September

Poullenot

Tweddle / ASP

The only female in the Junior’s Under-18 Final, Oahu’s Honolua Blomfield took home the gold medal and Junior World Longboard Champion title from the ISA event in Huanchaco, Peru.

ASP World Tour Changes Ownership / October Late this summer, pro surfing was sold to a largely unknown private media company called ZoSea (founded by Paul Speaker and Terry Hardy). The new ownership is focused on enhancing the organizational structure of the sport as well as the direction of professional surfing in the coming years.

Carissa Claims 2nd ASP Women’s World Title / October At just 21 years old, Hawaiian phenom Carissa Kainani Moore became the 2013 ASP Women’s World Champion after clinching a victory at the EDP Cascais Girls Pro presented by Billabong.

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2013 Year

Carlos Burle’s Controversial Wave in Portugal / October Nazare, Portugal set the stage for a dramatic event in Big Wave history. Carlos Burle rode a monstrous wave that potentially rivaled Garrett McNamara’s world record. But before this wave, Garrett saved Brazilian surfer Maya Gabeira’s life after the big wave surfer girl wiped out and was knocked unconscious. Meanwhile, Laird Hamilton calls into question Burle’s ride and Gabeira’s skills.

Mason Ho Wins HIC Pro / November With World Championships, Triple Crown Titles and countless victories sewn in the strands of Mason Ho’s DNA it was no surprise that sooner or later– in this case sooner– the son of Michael Ho, brother of Coco Ho and nephew of Derek Ho would surf his way to the winner’s circle at Sunset Beach.


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Freesurf Family Extends / July-August Managing editor Lauren got married on July 13th while Editor-at-Large and Board Stories/Billabong Surf TV host became a first time father to little Luke. Art director John also welcomed his first child, baby girl Sabrina.

Freesurf Gets Wings / October

Buttons Passing / November

Manulele production crew has taken flight and is taking surf photography to a whole new atmosphere with the DJI Phantom Quadcopter.

At age 54, Buttons passed away after battling lung cancer. His name is a connotation for many things: surfer, innovator, ambassador, father, grandfather, husband, hero. The surfing world will always remember Buttons’ influence in the 70’s and the name will be etched into the history of Hawaii.

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in Review

Kelia wins World Longboard Title / November

Zeke Lau Claims Victory at Vans World Cup of Surfing at Sunset Beach / December

Kelia Moniz won her second consecutive ASP Women’s World Longboard Title at the Swatch Girls Pro China hosted by Wanning. Kelia came into form on Finals day using her trademark elegant style, power and flow to lock in some excellent scores and take the win.

At only 20 years old, Zeke Lau has cemented himself as one of Hawaii’s next great hopes- something that the Honolulu native doesn’t take lightly. Surfing the biggest waves of the final, Zeke’s final scoreline was 15.5 out of 20 ( 8.67 and 6.83 point rides), earning him $40,000, and 35th position on the ASP world rankings.


Bryce Johnson

Industry Notes

The men and women of the surfing world have been flocking to Turtle Bay Resort like the salmon of Capistrano. Events such as The 44th Annual Surfer Poll Awards took place, bringing the best surfers, filmmakers and surf legends under one very large roof. Surfer Magazine’s loyal following held the power as they decided who was the best of the best. The results went as follows: SURFER Poll Men’s Top 10 1. Kelly Slater 2. John John Florence 3. Mick Fanning 4. Julian Wilson 5. Dane Reynolds 6. Jordy Smith 7. Joel Parkinson 8. Taj Burrow 9. Gabriel Medina 10. Andy Irons SURFER Poll Women’s Top 5 1. Alana Blanchard 2. Sally Fitzgibbons 3. Carissa Moore 4. Coco Ho 5. Stephanie Gilmore A.I. Breakthrough Performer- Nat Young Best Barrel - Didier Tinhin, from‘Tropically Yours’ Worst Wipeout - Peter Craig, from ‘Hallow Week’ Heavy Water - Shawn Dollar Best Documentary - ’Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau’, directed by Sam George Best Short - ’Begin Again’, directed by Blake Kueny and John John Florence Best Performance - John John Florence in ‘Done’ Movie of the Year - ’Done’, directed by Blake Kueny and John John Florence With free food and drinks to titillate the crowd, friends and family alike showed up at Surfer the Bar to watch the premier of Mick Fanning’s new movie, ‘Missing’. Fanning made sure to take a hot minute to give a short speech preluding the movie. Sorry, Eugene was not in attendance. Think you are ready for the big guns? Maybe you should check in with Kohl Christensen and Danilo Couto at the Big Wave Safety Summit at Turtle Bay on the North Shore of Oahu. The class began a couple year’s ago in a barn on Christensen’s property and has now expanded into a 74

two-day event with 60 big wave masters lerning value lessons in both the classroom and in the ocean. With the death of big wave charger Kirk Passmore fresh on everyone’s minds, legendary waterman Brian Keaulana had every waterman embracing his every word. If being in a classroom setting with aquatic mountain tamers is too much for you, maybe you should just stick to watching them at this year’s Big Wave World Tour sponsored by Dive N’ Surf. The one-day event will take place at Todos Santos off the coast of Ensenada in Mexico. “Killers”, the right hand point break that is famous for it’s ability to generate gargantuan waves, is responsible for some of the greatest rides in big wave surfing history. Don’t believe us? Just ask Taylor Knox about his 52-footer in 1998 and Greg Long about his 2007 Billabong XXL Paddle in Award if you need any clarification. The event is reserved for 24 of the best big wave riders in the universe (fine, we don’t know much about the surfing on Jupiter, but we have our suspicions). A list of the invitees can be found here: http://www. bigwaveworldtour.com/events/dive-n-surf--todos-santos/. We understand if your main concern is what the tide is doing in Mexico rather than who is slaying the ocean dragons, so you will be delighted to know that Freestyle has a new watch that will blow your mind! Their new Mariner Tide Collection will let you pick your 9 favorite tide locations from their 150 pre-programmed beaches. Now you can know where the best place to go be a mermaid and merman will be. Hopefully one of the beaches will be Salinas, Ecuador so that you can feel even closer to the competitors at the International Surfing Association’s (ISA) World Junior Surfing Championship. Ecuador’s President, Rafael Correa, the Ministries of Tourism and Sports, and the Ecuadorian Surfing Federation, are in full support of the most important Junior surfing event in the world. Get your foam fingers ready, as we are sending defending champions Josh Moniz, Tatiana Weston-Webb, and Mahina Maeda to guard their titles and help bring Hawaii’s team the gold. And if you happen to have travel plans for 2014, be sure to pick up Orca Publication’s new book ‘Incredible Waves’ to kill some plane time. This coffee table book of photos of waves from around the world with contributions from Chris Burkard, Clark Little, Ryan Craig, DJ Struntz, Ray Collins, Andrew Shield, Brian Bielmann, Mickey Smith, Russell Ord and 20 others- will be the perfect literature to pour over during a long flight, even though it might tip scales for carryon luggage. And if travel takes you to California this spring, then head to Del Mar where the first Hawaiian shaper Ben Aipa will be honored at the Boardroom Show as an Icon of Foam Tribute to the Masters Shape-off between May 17th and 18th 2014. Two days of surf culture including the world's most contemporary surfboards, designs, technological innovations, fins, wetsuits, board bags, leashes, cameras, techy gadgets and surf gear will be on display at this event. Along with this, the Masters Shape-off will consist of six shapers who will each receive 1.5 hours in the shaping bay as they attempt to replicate a classic Ben Aipa shape.


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Industry Notes

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Paaaaartay! Season Lifeguard Party RVCA presented The North Shore Lifeguard Winter Party on Friday, December 13th at Waimea Valley, in support of all the watermen who keep the North Shore beaches and waters safe year round. The event was highlighted with prize giveaways including Nixon watches, sunglasses, artwork and other goodies. Kona Brewing and Peligroso sponsored the event and helped amp up the evening while musical guests including Makua Rothman Band, Chaotic Five and Brandon Duhaylonsod provided the dancing music.

Pandora Go-To Stations In case you were in need of new Pandora Radio station recommendations (or if you just want to read what some of the pros are listening to lately), here’s a look at a handful of surfers’ go-to stations.

Shane Dorian - Lana Del Ray and Santigold

Jamie O’Brien - Rap station

Fox Loco Moto Event The 5th annual Fox MX Loco Moto event took place during a December weekend at the Kahuku Motocross track on Oahu’s North Shore. Fox brought motocross stars Ricky Carmichael, Jeff Emig and Ronnie Renner to the event for a kid’s demo and autograph session. At the Fox tent, local riders signed up for raffle prizes, kids played games and Red Bull supported the event with their MXT DJ truck and kept the tunes playing all day.

Torrey Mesiter - Brad Paisley, Michael Bublé, Hank Jr. Williams. ‘All I listen to is country.’

Rochelle Ballard - Empire of the Sun

Wave Jet Party At Kawela Bay On a warm winter afternoon, Kawela Bay was alive with the buzzing sounds of Wave Jet surfboards, as surfers like Garrett McNamara, Cory Lopez, Life Rolls On founder Jesse Billauer, Love Hodel and Mike Latronic were part of the demo day. The host demo, non-profit benefit was also joined by AccesSurf Hawaii, which empowers people with disabilities through surfing and water recreation throughout the state of Hawaii. The event was hosted by Wave Jet’s Global Director of Sales Kelly Virgulto, and guests enjoyed barbeque style food and drinks. WaveJet enables surfers to spend more time surfing, catching more waves and riding them longer, and based on the fun that was had and the waves that were ridden during this small day of surf, we’d say it was a success! Stay tuned for our upcoming Board Story in the February issue of Freesurf, featuring GMAC and his jet powered board.

Keanu Asing - Kendrick Lamar, Future and Frank Ocean. ‘I like rap music with a chill vibe.’

Matt Meola - Willie Nelson C.J. Hobgood - Jason Aldean (‘when I’m just hanging at home’), Florence and the Machine (‘when I’m feeling good’) and Notorious BIG (‘when I need to get amped’). Josh Kerr - The Who, Bob Marley Billy Kemper - Drake Matt Banting - ‘I just starting finding stations like Macklemore, Rhianna and other popular stuff.’ Evan Geiselman - Creepy Bats for Lashes and Drake


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Last Look


Freesurf V11n1  

Freesurf Magazine January 2014

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