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Mean Season HIC Pro Sunset + Menehune + Alex Florence + Art + Roots


The Nexpa Pro features a super-soft, molded Ultracush footbed with anatomical arch support and an ergonomic, synthetic nubuck upper with soft neoprene liner. The entire bottom unit utilizes plus foam technology, an innovative process that produces a fully recyclable, no-waste, non-slip outsole. Shown here is the John Florence colorway.

VANSSURF.COM

Š2013, Vans Inc. photo: Daniel Russo


MASON HO

CONGRATULATIONS ON WINNING THE 2013 HIC PRO

#LIVEMARLEY

BOB MARLEY™ MARLEY™ ©Fifty-Six Hope Road Music Ltd., 2013. Right of Publicity and Persona Rights – Fifty-Six Hope Road Music Ltd. BOBMARLEY.COM

MASON HO with RISE UP HEADPHONES

© 2013 One Love Foundation.™ Fifty-Six Hope Road Music Ltd. All Right Reserved. Used Under Authorization. 1LOVE.ORG


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Free Parking

These waves didn’t travel thousands of miles across an ocean to go unnoticed. Photo: Jim Russi


Sofia Louca

Cover Story

Mark Healey @ Jaws September and October has seen an active early season blessing the northern shores of the Hawaiian Islands. But November has brought the first real opening swell for big wave aficionados. On the second Wednesday of the month, a raw swell from straight north pounded the open facing shores with buoy readings up to 18 feet at 17 seconds. While the well known big wave spots like Waimea Bay and a few of the outer reefs were tackled on Oahu, it was only a small crew that set upon Maui’s infamous Jaws. One of which being Oahu hell-man Mark Healey who had a sneaking suspicion on where to go. “Storms that come from the northerly direction in Hawaii and from close to the islands, to me it seems they always get upgraded. Jaws likes north, it amplifies the northly angle, so I knew it would probably be the biggest place in Hawaii.” And that it was. But after all the recent hype of the paddle potential at Jaws, you would think the crowd would be thicker. “I don’t think there was ever more than 5 or 6 of us out at any given time during the whole day. I’ve traveled around the world chasing big waves for a long time now and if there’s 20 foot waves in the water you get your ass out there, that’s what I’ve learned. You don’t sit around cause you never know how long it’s gonna last.” Throughout the day, there were a handful of daring rides from the dedicated crew. But conditions were tough and even though the wind was good, it’s never easy to paddle into one of those monsters. “I was seeing Shane Dorian take off on huge waves and he was like ‘Oh my god this is so bumpy’ and I’m thinking, ‘How the hell am I gonna make a wave on my heel edge backside dealing with this?’” But wisely picking the second smoother wave of the set, Healey set the rail of his 10’0” Pyzel quad and dug into a perfect bottom turn to make the massive section on his only wave of the day. While this swell at Jaws may have slipped under the radar for some, we at Freesurf recognize dedication when we see it and Mark Healey is one dedicated charger. Experience, timing, guts and luck all came together, and Healey got a BOMB!


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Table of Contents 43 Crews Freesurf gets real with North Shore’s tightest crew

57 Aperture Aquatic occular stimuli

80 Verizon Hawaii Surf Team Digging for gold

10

Free Parking

12

Cover Story

12

Editor’s Note

20

News & Events

30

Shoots

73

Spotlight

76

Grom Report

90

Environment

94

Art

99

Shoots

100

Roots

104

Industry Notes

112

Last Look

Model: Alicia Franco.

CCCCC

YOGA

SURFERS

66-437 Kamehameha Hwy • next to post office • behind HE>i • 808-389-3709

W W W. N N N N N N N S S S S S S S . . . .

Photo: Jim Ward


Sofia Louca

Editorial Publisher: Mike Latronic Managing Editor: Lauren Rolland Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Photo Editor : Tony Heff Art Director : John Weaver Staff Photographers : Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Mike Latronic, Chris Latronic, Sean Reilly Free Thinkers: Mike Latronic, Tiffany Hervey, Dainel Ikaika Ito, Sean Reilly, Jenna Roberts, Tyler Rock, Shawn Pila and Danielle Travis. Social Media: Sean Reilly Office Manager: Amy Withrow

Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Richy Arosemena, Eric Baeseman (Outbluffum.com), Paulo Barcellos, Brian Bielmann, Brent Bielmann, John Bilderback, Kyle Burnett, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Damea Dorsey, Rick Doyle, Paul Fisher, Ryan T. Foley, Pete Frieden, Dane Grady, Pete Hodgson, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Bruno Lemos, ManaPhoto, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Zak Noyle, Jim Russi, Scott Soens, Spencer Suitt, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson, Cole Yamane Sales Coordinator: Jenna Roberts Advertising Executives : Shaun Lopez, Maile Botelho, Nate Cloud, Andre Derizans, Andeaux Borundas Business Coordinator : Cora Sanchez

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores

When you buy gift card(s) totaling $25 or more.

and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept

Watch Board Stories and Billabong Surf TV OC16 Channel 12, or 112 digital in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv

unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return. One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2012

www.jambahawaii.com Please recycle this magazine, mahalo.

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Editor’s Note

r

sa pub re g

ra

t

if

t

ied

res

au

The Tides of Winter Here we go, ‘tis the season of giving and mahalo to the powers that be for the many gifts bestowed upon us this winter surf season. We’ve enjoyed numerous wave trends, and the season kicked off with a perfect NW swell that graced Pipeline. The spectacle was like opening day fireworks that you just couldn’t keep your eyes off of. To follow up, a giant north swell arrived in good time, bringing beautiful canvases to play for the Reef Hawaiian Pro, as the world’s best contended for the 1st jewel of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Solid swells, surf and memorable moments plentiful.

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20

But amongst this year’s many ovations there have been some powerful spoils. A few of our finest have taken the inevitable one-way ticket to that righteous surf spot in the sky. Warriors of the ocean, two surfers dedicated their lives in celebration of pushing the limits of human ability in nature’s most extreme environments. Next time you go surfing remember to give thanks and pay respects to the great surfers who have passed before us. Without their courage and sacrifice, the sport would not be what it is today. As surfers, we risk our lives chasing the thrill of riding waves each time we enter the water. In this final month of 2013, let’s continue to charge and go steeper & deeper than ever before. In the spirits of the late Buttons Kaluhiokalani, George Ramos, Kirk Passmore and all past heroes, let their names not be forgotten but added to the ethereal illumination that makes the culture of surfing shine so bright. We still have quite a winter ahead of us with plenty of opportunities to shine. The Wave of the Winter and Steep & Deep competitions are underway, as well as the usual epic plethora of professional surf contest enjoyment. And if all that kind of stuff isn’t your fancy... Patience. The circus is only temporary and springtime is just around the corner. Catch a wave, enjoy the show and no get too nuts! Aloha and happy holidays from Freesurf. - Chris Latronic Editor-at-Large


2013 HIC Pro / Sunset Beach

Latronic

News & Events


With World Championships, Triple Crown Titles and countless victories sewn in the strands of Mason Ho’s DNA it was no surprise that sooner or later – in this case sooner, the son of Michael Ho, brother of Coco Ho and nephew of Derek Ho would surf his way to the winner’s circle at Sunset Beach.

There was however excitement as the entire beach erupted in the heated final of this year’s HIC Pro at Sunset Beach. There was plenty to cheer about with an all-Hawaii final and two of Sunset’s favorite sons in the water. None cheered louder than Michael Ho, for his son, elated to share an experience he knows after winning the HIC multiple times in the past. The 25-year-old cashed in on $15,000, landed No.1 on the ASP Hawaii regional rankings and earned Mason a wildcard into the Round of 64 of the first two events of the prestigious Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. The Sunset Beach resident surfed brilliantly throughout the entire event


Willi

Heff

News & Events

Mason Ho

Dusty Payne

Willi

2013 HIC Pro / Sunset Beach displaying flair, aggression, style and superior wave knowledge every heat. With a relatively slow start to the final, Ho fended off a late charge from veteran Pancho Sullivan while Kauaians Evan Valiere and Gavin Gillette were plagued with off rhythm. By the last minutes of the heat it was apparent battle between Ho and Sullivan. The two traded off tube rides and deep carves - posting 16.26 and 13 points respectively, for their top two rides. With only minutes left Sullivan took the lead with a good cover up on the outside followed by a few vicious carves.

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Willi

Pancho Sullivan

Torrey Meister

Evan Valiere


Rock

Heff

Rock

News & Events

Joel Centeio

Gavin Gillette

Heff

Mason came right back with the highest single wave score of the final an 8.93 for a tube ride. Third place was Evan Valiere (Kauai, 29 - 8.6 points). Fourth was Gavin Gillette (Kauai, 27 - 4.57 points). “It feels great to win in front of all my best friends and all the people that I walk past every day,” said Ho. “It’s always been a goal in my life to win contests, but to do it here at home... I’ve never really won a (world tour contest) before and I’ve been doing it for years, so I’m really happy.“

Results FINAL: 1st. ($15,000) - Mason Ho, 25, Sunset Beach, Oahu 2nd. ($7,500) - Pancho Sullivan, 40, Sunset Beach, Oahu 3rd. ($5,000) - Evan Valiere, 29, Kilauea, Kauai 4th. ($3,500) - Gavin Gillette, 27, Kilauea, Kauai Mason Ho


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News & Events

Rip Curl’s Bethany & Alana Host First Ever Keiki Classic Photos Bryce Johnson

Presented by Hanalei Surf Company at Pinetrees on Kauai, Bethany Hamilton and Alana Blanchard teamed up with Rip Curl and Hanalei Surf to host their first ever Keiki Classic this past October. An increasing northwest swell brought solid overhead surf, but the Kauai groms were more than up for the challenge. 12-year-old Tiare Thompson won the final for the highest combined heat score of the day in the Girls 12 & Under division and 11-year old Kainehe Hunt took the top spot in the Boys 12 & Under division. The Girls 16 & Under division saw Mainei Kinimaka as a clear standout all day, ultimately taking the first place crown

just ahead of Ashlynn Owings and Mikayla Savoie, who came in 2nd and 3rd respectively. The Boys 16 & Under final was won by in-form Lucas Angulo, who edged out 2nd place Reece Leonard and 3rd place Titus Leonard in some of the biggest, most challenging surf of the day. The day ensued with relay races and beach games led by Bethany’s husband, Adam Dirks, plus competitors and beachgoers had a chance to get their poster, surfboard, book or cap autographed by Bethany and Alana. All the groms went home with a goody bag that included a custom t-shirt, poster, water bottle and Flex Fit contest cap, along with Sticky Bumps, T-Mobile, Zico, and Spy prizes.


News & Events

Brisa Hennessy Wins Rip Curl GromSearch Nationals

Brisa Hennessy

Uppers saw brilliant talent and stoke as the groms took over in the Rip Curl Gromsearch National Final presented by Mophie. Appropriately finishing off an epic season with pumping surf, the nations best kids under age 16 fought for the $500 cash and an all expenses paid trip to Bells Beach, Australia to compete in the International GromSearch Final that is partnered with the Rip Curl Pro in 2014. Oahu girl Brisa Hennessy brought home the gold in a nail-biting finish in the Girls 16 & Under division. With her winning score announced at the podium, the 13 yearold little lady showed that her intelligent, dynamic and fluid surfing in conjunction with

her ability to connect multiple maneuvers really paid off. An excited Hennessy went on and expressed her enthusiasm to compete in such an “iconic venue” where she will be able to walk amongst her heroes and “down the stairs through surf history”.

Big Wave Surfers Play Polo to Benefit Hawaii Children’s Cancer Foundation Photos courtesy of C.J. DeWolf Big wave riders are used to risking their lives in the water, but on October 27th these adrenaline charged surfers again risked their lives- and possibly their ego’s -on the polo field to raise money for a good cause in a very special exhibition polo match. Some of the biggest names in the surfing industry got on a horse and played polo for the cause, “Ride to Survive” for children’s cancer at the Maui Polo Club in Makawao, Maui. The Players: Nakoa DeCoite, Jamie Sterling, Paige Alms, Pete Cabrinha, Francisco Porcella, Marlon Lewis, Sierra Emory and Juan Gomez. Hawaii Children’s Cancer Foundation (HCCF)

is the only organization in the State of Hawaii dedicated exclusively to providing services to children with cancer and their families. They provide a wide range of services and programs to their families, including financial assistance, support groups, social events, education and advocacy. Paige Alms and the rest of the players practiced every week to get ready for the big game, “It’s so much fun, I’m getting to ride an amazingly sweet horse named Cisco, who is putting up with me to say the least. It’s been a challenge learning how to hit the ball while riding a horse. To be involved in doing something so fun and raising awareness and money for the Hawaii Children’s Cancer Foundation truly is unreal.”

Big wave surfer Nakoa DeCoite actually grew up playing polo with his dad Herman-Louis DeCoite and older brothers Ka’aina, and Ka’eo, who both played at the benefit and who both surf as well. Nakoa enjoyed sharing the field with his surf buddies, and says it will definitely be one for the books. “I’m glad I can help out a good cause and laugh at my friends at the same time,” says Nakoa. A big Mahalo to The DeCoite family for putting this amazing event together and a special dedication to Coral DeCoite’s son Azure who kicked cancer’s butt! To see more of what Hawaii Children’s Cancer Foundation is about please visit their website: www.hccf.org #icancervive


AMPLIFIER The Amplifier Model evolved from Eric’s popular K4 design that was modified for Joel Centeio. The tail rocker is slightly more relaxed than the K4 and the concave is amplified through the mid-section of the board. This increases forward lift for more front foot acceleration and speed. The position and shape of the concave creates better grip and drive through bottom turns with more speed heading into the lip and beyond. The Amplifier is a great high-performance short board for intermediate to advanced skill levels. Tail shapes: Squash, Thumb, Round Pin and Swallow.

‘Tis the Surf Season for HIC Surfboards and Boardshorts

K4 The K4 is a great all-purpose, high-performance shortboard that works well in a wide variety of wave types and sizes. With its low entry nose rocker and accentuated tail rocker, the K4 combines exceptional front foot drive with quick, full rotational top turns. The deep, single to double concaves generate bursts of acceleration out of turns, while a bit of width in the nose enhances its drive and stability. If you need one board to handle the majority of conditions you’ll surf day to day, the K4 is it. Tail Options: Squash, Thumb, Diamond, Swallow, and Round Pin.

“IMPOSSIBLES” Octo Stretch Boardshort

ROUND PIN This design is a solid and proven performer in Hawaiian surf, as well as around the globe as a travel board. It’s extremely fast, responsive, and has lots of drive and stability through hard rail turns. Its ability to go from small to medium to larger surf, makes it a musthave for any serious surfer’s quiver. Optimum Wave Type: 3 to 8 ft. hollow reefs, beach and point breaks.

With over 20 different Eric Arakawa models to choose from, HIC’s got the right board to take your surfing to the next level.

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ASP / Morigo

News & Events

Gabriel Medina

2013 ASP World Junior Championship, Brazil

Ideal conditions helped spark the final day of the ASP World Junior Championships. In clean three-to-five foot waves at Joaquina Beach in Florianopolis, Brazil, competitors battled for the title. Past winners include super stars of the surfing world, such as Joel Parkinson, Adriano de Souza, Jordy Smith and Andy Irons.

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Brazil’s Gabriel Medina was the force to be

Jack Johnson and friends.

North Shore Community Land Trust The community was in great spirits and company as they gathered for the Third Annual Benefit for the Country presented by the North Shore Community Land Trust. Adorned by a picturesque sunset, luscious greenery and smiles for days, the event was truly spectacular.

reckoned with, as he put up the highest scores in each round, rocketing him into the final. Not only did he earn the prestigious ASP World Junior Title, but he also grabbed the highest singe-wave score of a 9.97 out of 10 for launching an insane backside air, only to be followed by a firestorm of turns. He finished the final strong with an 18.26 out of 20 overall score, solidifying his win. New Zealand’s Ella Williams posted her best results ever, winning her very own ASP World Junior Title. Williams had not even planned to attend the event, but seized her golden opportunity when Ellie Jean-Coffey bowed out of the competition last minute. Climbing her way into the limelight, Williams went from being the newcomer and the long shot, to the champion, making her dreams come true. The Top 4 placers are now positioned in Round 96 for all ASP Prime and 6-Star rated events for 2014, which could conceivably put their professional surfing crusade towards joining the ASP World Tour into warp speed. Those who placed 5th through 8th will have a guaranteed seed in Round 1 for all ASP 6-Star events.

Kawika Kahiapo and Ledward Kaapana started the evening off during the cocktail hour, which featured tasty little delights utilizing locally grown ingredients from Town Restaurant, along with libations from Kona Brewing Company, Peligroso and Paradise Beverages, Inc. Slowly the crowd was herded into the barn, where the silent auction, music and dinner took place. Paula Fuga, Mike Love and Jack Johnson had their musical notions lingering in the background as the community gathered around the dinner tables, lapping up more Town goodness. Dancing and celebrating continued with full bellies well after dinner and into the night, making it a grand one to remember. Proceeds from the event help protect the natural landscapes, cultural heritage and rural character that make the North Shore the beauty that she is. The North Shore Community Land Trust has raised over $15 million dollars that has gone into protecting over 1,600 acres of land and has played an integral role in supporting other conservation efforts around the island, protecting an additional 4,754 acres on the North Shore of Oahu. The hope is to help conserve the remaining 20,000 acres that are currently for sale on the North Shore.


News & Events

Shawn Pila

Russ Hennings photo

Oakley is the proud sponsor of local hero Sebastian Zietz Winner of the 2012 Vans Triple Crown

Robert Pascua

VOLCOM Pufferfish Surf Series

Offering the most extensive range of technical eyewear outside of Honolulu.

The second stop of the Volcom Pufferfish Surf Series went down at Banyans on the Big Island, with super-shredable head-high surf and a freight of frothing groms. Free pizza, free entry and a truckload of goodies got these kids running in circles and covering each other’s faces with shaving cream and cheese puffs. Not to mention the cash prize that awaits the winner! Taking home the gold in the pro-am division and winning the airshow was Kona boy, Keala Naihe.

Lobby level, Turtle Bay Resort. Open daily 9am-9pm P. 808.447.6668

PRO-AM – 1) Keala Naihe - $500.00 2) Kiko Napeahi 3) Lahiki Minamishin 4) Richard Reed 5) Teak Owen 6) Forrest Troxel JUNIORS – 1) Shayden Pacarro 2) Charlie Akau 3) Loa Ng 4) Forrest Elmer 5) Chris O’Donnell 6) Josh Barret GROMS – 1) Hanalei Kanaeli 2) Cole Alves 3) Ocean Donaldson 4) Trae Tanoai 5) Wyatt Walter 6) Pelika Delovio

more “story” than “store”

SQUIDS – 1) Brodie Sale 2) Ocean Macedo 3) Tony Nunez 4) Keanu Taylor 5) Dante Silva 6) Luke Hefflan

Robert Pascua

GIRLS – 1) Lani Dougherty 2) Carly Wilson 3) Manu Napeahi 4) Kianna Briggs 5) Aloha Lopez 6) Jade Steal ELECTRIC VOLT THROWER – Charlie Akau $100.00 WATERMELON AWARD – Solomon Doyle AIR SHOW – Keala Naihe

North Shore WaterShed is located in the center of the lobby level, Turtle Bay Resort. Open daily 9am - 9pm Call 808- 447- 6673


Uncommonly Beautiful

Photo: Zak Noyle

A musical mixture of culture, art, and deep surf history...

Experience Oahu’s

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Spencer Suitt

News & Events

Friends of Ali‘i Beach Presents the 37th Annual North Shore

Menuhune Surf Contest By Lauren Rolland For 37 years family and friends have gathered on the North Shore of Oahu for the ultimate menehune surf showdown. From water wings and twelve year old chargers to book exchanges, autograph signings and insane prizes, this event is more than just a surf contest. It’s a show of the community support, the ohana connections and the spirit of surfing- a priceless and simple pleasure that is shared through generations. Almost a coming-of-age type of event, many of the North Shore kids get their start in competitive surfing at this friendly contest, and pros like Sunny Garcia, John John Florence and Ikaika Kalama made their mark at the North Shore Menehune back in the day. Nowadays they show up to sign autographs and stoke out the up-and-coming groms. For many of the keiki, this event is extremely meaningful. This year’s 37th Annual North Shore Menehune Surf Contest was held at Hale’iwa, Ali’i Beach Park on October19th and 20th, and finals on Saturday the 26th. The first weekend saw waves twice the size of the kids riding them- around 4 foot with stormy weather and ambiguous wind conditions. But finals day was ideal with perfect sized waves to challenge the keiki. The sunshine was on all day and the positive energy was felt throughout the crowd. Contest director and menehune mom Ivy Blomfield Foster put on an incredible three-day event for 400 competitors, chock full of games, entertainment, surfing and even a book trade to promote literacy and

the importance of school. “I was surprised at how many kids brought their old books to trade in,” Ivy mentions. The Kawela Bay local made sure to develop this year’s North Shore Menehune around positive things for the keiki’s future. Things like reading, sportsmanship and beach stewardship were themes throughout the contest. But by far the biggest theme of the event was ohana. “It’s about extended families. All our good friends are our family and we’re all supporting each other’s children,” explains Nohealani Chun, mother of pro surfer Ikaika Kalama. Two generations sat under a beach tent to enjoy the festivities, and they watched as a third generation surfed the waves of Hale‘iwa. Ikaika’s two kids, Tamaroa and Ka’anohi competed in the contest and Tamaroa took home 1st place in the 7-9 Boys Longboard division. “I actually did this event when I was Tamaroa’s age,” remarks Ikaika. “Pretty much everyone that started surfing around the North Shore has done this contest.” Grandparents, parents and grandkids spent the weekend surrounded by their friends and extended ohana, enjoying the good vibes and the company of the surfing community. “Ohana is at the heart and soul of the Menehune Surf Contest,” describes Ivy. “Families of all generations come together to support each other. The quality time and bonding of family make our event very special.”


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Heff

Heff Spencer Suitt

News & Events

While parents enjoy mingling and a relaxing day spent at the beach, majority of the keiki agree that the best part about the event is the prizes. Surf N Sea gave away 11 custom surfboard certificates and another 14 new surfboards were donated by various sponsors. Some of the other prizes included goodie bags with a contest t-shirt, a hat from Hurley, water bottles from Sanuk and RipCurl, a collapsible cooler from Wyland, wax from BubbleGum, Tamba and Sticky Bumps, a Freesurf Magazine, a coupon from Jamba Juice and lots of stickers. Ivy’s own kids compete in the event and twelve year old Ha’aheo Foster-Blomfield says that although this is his last year competing, being a pro surfer is now a goal and he’ll continue to surf with friends and family. Part of the annual Menehune Contest since diapers, Ha’a described what the event means to him. “It’s about family and friends all coming together, cruising and surfing together. Hawaii is different when it comes to ohana cause everybody takes care of each other and they all love each other.” Iwalani Foster, mother of two and teacher at Waiau Elementary says that Ali‘i Beach is her family’s gathering place. “We are so fortunate to be able to surf with our children, siblings, uncles, cousins, nieces and nephews. It’s a beautiful connection to be out in the water with your family. Coming to Ali‘i’s helps us to spend quality time together in this busy day and age.” pau

Family Values Wyatt McHale, North Shore, 12 Favorite surfer: John John Florence Who taught you to surf? My parents. We still surf together all the time. Favorite place to surf with family? V Land and Freddie Land. What does ohana mean to you? Ohana means a lot of loving people around me and having fun with my family. I feel that the North Shore Menehune really represents the ohana because it brings everyone together and everyone’s having a fun time playing on the beach and watching everyone surf. It’s just a super fun contest to be around. William Spradlin, Waialua, 8 Favorite surfer: John John Favorite wave: Ali‘i’s Board: 5’4 Keanu Asing Schaper he won at a past Menehune event. What does family mean to you? It means happiness and love. Ka’iwa Foster-Blomfield, Waialua, 7 Favorite surfer: Uncle Kawika (Foster) Favorite wave: Haleiwa Board: longboard and shortboard Best part about the event: Having fun, and surfing with my family and cousins.


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Sean Reilly

News & Events

IBA Hawaii Finishes Strong

The International Body Boarding Association (IBA) Hawaii completed its first annual pro tour last November. The tour consisted of two events, over $10,000 in cash and prizes and automatic seeds into the coveted 2014 IBA International Pipeline Challenge. Kauai-bred Matt Holzman took the tour by storm, winning the first event and placing third at the final event, earning himself the title of the first ever IBA Hawaii Tour Champion. West Side Oahu hosted the last stop on tour, giving birth to the Kea’au Beach Challenge. Competitors and spectators alike could not have asked for a better event to conclude the first annual IBA Hawaii Tour. Kea’au Beach provided the pros, juniors, women and drop-kneeers with rippable surf from start to finish. Day one of the Kea’au Beach Challenge saw a competitive Men’s Pro division battle it out in pristine 2-4 foot surf. As the tide dropped and swell filled in, the final rounds saw the best conditions of the day. Nail biter after nail biter, each heat seemed to come down to the final seconds. West Side local JB Hillen took down nine-time World Champion Mike Stewart in an action packed Semi-final. He was then paired with six-time World Champion and Brazilian workhorse, Guilherme Tamega in an epic final. Big barrels and mammoth maneuvers were abundant. Despite the torrential downpour, the crowd frothed from the beach. With priority and thirty seconds left it seemed that JB had the final all but won. But Guilherme Tamega fought to the end, winning the nerve-racking final in the closing seconds.

Sean Reilly

By Sean Reilly


Sean Reilly

News & Events

Day two of the event hosted the juniors, women and drop-kneeres. The waves were bigger and more consistent than the first day, but 50 mile an hour winds reeked havoc on the judge’s tent. Every division was a spectacle as competitors continued to put on a show. Check out the final results below. MEN PRO TOUR WINNER Matt Holzman MEN PRO FINAL 1 – Guilherme Tamega 2 – JB Hillen Equal 3 – Mike Stewart Equal 3 – Matt Holzman JR PRO TOUR WINNER Tanner Mcdaniel JR PRO FINAL 1 – Tanner McDaniel 2 – Kawika Kamai 3 – Jared Gunnals 4 – Malino Ching WOMEN PRO TOUR WINNER Melanie Bartels WOMEN PRO FINAL 1 – Karla Costa Taylor 2 – Rusty Hillen 3 – Melanie Bartels 4 – Ayako Ancheta DK PRO TOUR WINNER Dayton Wago DK PRO FINAL 1 – Dayton Wago 2 – Micah McMullin 3 – Kawika Kamai 4 – Kyle Ching


Time Fo’ Crews:

The North Shore Rat Pack By Chris Latronic Interview by Tyler Rock

We all have our crew. It could be just your best friend or a multitude of them. People come together and form the amazing relationships we thrive in today. We go to school, work, eat, surf, party, cruise with these special friends and make memories last forever… Or at least within your crew you do. Growing up on the North Shore, the Neverland Boys (John, Nathan and Ivan Florence, Kiron Jabour, Koa Rothman and Eli Olson) were connected to each other through their love for the ocean and surfing. The crew has shared similar struggles and triumphs as they grew into the shrines of professional surfing they now occupy. The stickers and pocket books may have changed tremendously over the years, but some things will never change and friends will always be friends. To get some 1st person insight, we tracked down Alexandra Florence to help us paint a picture of their humble origins. Alex was more than gracious to take us back to the beginning. AF: Kiron, Koa, Eli, Ivan, Nate, John… That’s the crew that’s at my house all the time… for years! Their crew is pretty tight, they basically live here (points to her house). I put up a list, like ‘bring your own towel’ and such. I ain’t coin extra laundry. We have a good time here. I make them laugh, they make me laugh. I chase them with brooms. Recently they put a chicken leg in my shoe… a real chicken leg. Not the kind you buy in the store. I don’t know where the rest of it went. Freesurf: Tell us about each of the boys in the Crew. AF: Kiron is very dependable, he’s helped me out a lot. When the boys were very little, he

was extremely helpful, even now. When we get in a big family argument, Kiron is usually the one who saves the day. He’s like a big brother.

become friends again. He does stuff like leave his wet shorts in the middle of the floor, no matter how many times I tell him not to.

Eli is a really good kid. Humble, honest, and very helpful. I call him my Asian son. Eli and I also have a love/hate relationship. I get mad at him and he gets all salty about it, but then we

Koa Rothman is sweet, a really good kid. Definitely one of my favorites. I can’t get him to rake the yard, but he’s got my back. When I’m


L to R: John John, Nathan, Eli, Koa, Ivan and Kiron. Photo: Bryce Johnson


Rock Brian Thacker

Ivan, Nathan and Koa about to paddle out to Pipe together.

Nathan dropping in. John John gets artsy with the Go Pro.


Eli and Nate charging Waimea.

Heff

Heff

John in the barrel waving to Eli, waving back at John.


Rat Pack fighting with the boys, he stands up and says ‘Don’t talk to your mom that way!’ and stuff like that. Ivan is a really underground guy, but he charges and has really sick style. Although Ivan comes off quiet, just get to know him, he’s hilarious. We also skateboard the most together. Nathan is super smart and loves to read. He reads more than me, he reads big books everyday. He’s probably reading right now. Literally, he’s one of those kids who just walks around reading. I’m actually pretty proud of that. I also workout with him a lot, he’s like my trainer sort of. John is an adult in so many ways, you could sit down with him and have a cup of coffee. He talks about things he saw online, his excitement for film and cameras, it’s nice. We have fun skating together. He definitely has his immature side but most of the time we can just hang out and it not be such a mom/son thing, and just cruise. Usually when they are all together they are watching and reviewing footage, watching silly things on YouTube. Or they’re out here (points to the deck and front yard). They sometimes have some heated chess matches on the picnic table. Or they’re up in the tree fort checking the waves and girls. Or they’re eating. That’s a big thing, they eat a ton. Now that you got the desensitized gist of the story from a motherly perspective, here’s a RAW version told from the crew themselves. Interview conducted by Tyler Rock (Freesurf). JJF: John John Florence NF: Nathan Florence KJ: Kiron Jabour IV: Ivan Florence KR: Koa Rothman EO: Eli Olson Freesurf: How did you guys first start hanging out? NF: We’re basically all different ages.

46

KR: Elementary EO: I guess just from being born and raised out here. Surfing. JJF: School. Me and Eli always had classes together. (John John comes from behind Nathan and puts the cat on his head, laughs) NF: Get him out of here! KR: He smells like straight oil. Freesurf: Who here is the same age? JJF: Me and Eli EO: Yeah, me and John were in the same grade from elementary through Kahuku (high school) Freesurf: Kiron you’re the oldest? KJ: Yeah

Freesurf: Who’s the youngest? ALL: Ivan Freesurf: I notice when you guys surf, you tend to go, 1.2.3 on sets. It’s like you’re taking turns. EO: Really? Freesurf: Well, I don’t know... is that how you guys work it? EO: We probably just... JJF: We kind of... NF: We sit in a group, in the same spot so it’s like... KR: We just take turns. JJF: Yeah EO: Ya, definitely take turns. And once one of us gets a good one, the next one up is like, aaagh I want a good one. NF: Yeah. KR: We usually know who’s next in line. NF: Yeah, whoever caught the last wave is last. JJF: Koa seems to think he’s next in line more. KR: YOU are...you should have seen what he

did yesterday. He caught a sick one, paddled right back out and took mine. JJF: Yeah, but he snaked me last year, then he came back out and said, my wave was lame and then it was on “Wave of the Winter”. KR: Last year! JJF: We’re even now. (In the background, Ivan grabs Kiron’s burrito out of his hand and starts grinding.) KJ: You want a bite? Just have it, just f-ing finish it. Freesurf: So is there a pecking order for you guys when you’re all out there? KJ: (raises hand) It’s always my turn. (All laugh). I’m number 1. EO: No. We definitely try to take turns. KR: It’s whoever gets out there first, gets the first wave. KJ: Koa doesn’t think that though, even if he’s last. KR: You’re the worst one! Why’s everyone trying to pick on me? Freesurf: So who’s the dirtiest, messiest of you guys? (All laugh and point to Nathan). KR: This kid’s probably the gnarliest kid around. NF: Not even! EO: Nasty Nate was his nickname forever. NF: Not the dirtiest. I’m the cleanest one here. JJF: Just watch him eat. (All laugh). Nathan throws part of his burrito at John John. Freesurf: Who’s the most on it? Who’s up the earliest and checking the waves, how do you guys work it in the morning? KR: I’m definitely up the earliest. (All laugh). JJF: No he’s not!


Chris Latronic

Kiron’s on it.

EO: He’s the latest. (pointing at Koa). JJF: He’s the last one. We’re always running out like, wait. Did someone call Koa? EO: Maybe John or Kiron is the most on it. (All agree). Freesurf: Do you guys give each other a heads up in the morning? EO: Oh we have a group text between us that’s just constantly blowing up. JJF: Yeah. EO: I’ll go surf or something, and there’ll be a hundred texts from these guys. It’s sick though, there’s some funny stuff in there. Freesurf: What is the gnarliest thing you’ve all seen together? KR: That shark. That shark that ate the turtle.

NF:We got caught inside on like... EO: ..Biggest wave I’ve ever seen. NF:To this day.

JJF: The shark that ate the turtle was pretty nuts. KR: Not everyone was there though. JJF: It was me, Koa and Nathan. EO: Maybe Jaws? That was a group trip. KR: No the one day we got caught inside at Himis (Himalayas). JJF:That was the gnarliest! (All agree). KJ: Everyone was there. Freesurf: What happened? NF: We got caught inside on like... EO: ..Biggest wave I’ve ever seen. NF: To this day. KR: John made it out the back of course. EO: It happened to be breaking right where you are. (points 9 meters away) Ivan’s board hit me in the head. JJF: I don’t know how I made it out the back. NF: Ivan and Eli were behind me and I ditched my board, dove under, looked back and they were gone, boards tombstoning. You could hear boards breaking underwater. JJF: I was a little bit outside these guys and the lip was coming down. Somehow I got under the lip and made it through the back. But it was a HUGE wave, I don’t know how I made it through. KR: That was the biggest wave I’ve ever seen.

And it was breaking in front of us. KJ: Nathan’s board was going over me inside the barrel. JJF: All these guys went in and it was just me and Kalani Chapman. EO: My leash broke. KR: The sound under the water of all the boards and leashes breaking... NF: Ya you hear the snaps of leashes breaking like tzing tzing. KR: It was sooo gnarly. EO: Me and Ivan were the last two to get picked up by the ski. Freesurf: You guys ever have a moment in those situations where you were stoked you had your boy there with you? EO: Ya. that time for sure. When I surfaced, I was right next to Ivan. I think Ivan was like 15 at the time, and it was as big as Himis can handle. I was terrified but I saw him and was like ‘we’re all good just breathe.’ My leash got taken out too, so we’re both just swimming in the middle of the ocean. But it was cool that we had each other, because if I was by myself, or if he was by himself it could have been a whole different story. So ya, having your boys with you definitely helps out a lot. (NF nods). NF: I think me and Koa had a moment once in


Puerto (Escondido). KR: That was insanely scary. NF: I could not make it to the surface and just my hand was out on the top of the water like waving (makes a waving motion). Koa said he just saw my hand like aaaahhh! (waving desperately). KR: I barely made it over the next set. I look and Nate was just in the foam like this (waving). I paddled over to him and he barely popped up right before the next wave. That was scary. JJF to Kiron: How about our one at Waimea? JJF: Me and Kiron had one, I was like 12 and Kiron was 14. We were paddling out to the Bay and the swell started picking up super fast. And this was before we looked at the swells or anything, so we were just kinda like, ‘Oh! Waimea looks fun, lets go out.’ And then a 9 wave closeout set came through, and Kiron was five feet in front of me and we were just barely scratching over the tops of these things. It was the scariest moment... KJ: ...just barely making it over. JJF: I was so scared just going over, thinking about the next wave really breaking. NF: They looked like ants going over the thing. Tiny. KJ: Where is that photo? JJF: I don’t know, gotta find that thing.

Freesurf: So is it okay to claim? KR: No. NF: No. JJF: Oh, it’s so wrong, cause everyone gets so rousted for it. KR: It makes a really sick wave look really gay. EO: I feel like we roust each other really hard for it, but it’s like you’re having fun. KJ: You’re going to get rousted for it either way, even if it was the nutsest wave ever. EO: Ya. JJF: If you claim it, everyone just forgets about your wave. KR: Yeah, you’ll forget about the whole wave and just remember his claim. NF: Yeah, exactly. JJF: Like his Duane Desoto wave he got. KR: But that thing was f*cked up. KJ: But you went and flexed, you went like raaawwwrrrr! (Arms raised wildly). (All laugh).

Heff

Latronic

Eli, not an emotionless robot.

JJF: Eli. KR: Eli. EO: Kiron JJF: No way! EO: John! (All crack up). KJ: Everyone said Eli and he’s trying to point at everyone else. EO: Whatever! JJF: I’m pretty sure we have a clip of Eli doing a double hand claim in the barrel, and coming out hands behind his back like... (gestures and makes a funny face). EO: Okay, I guess I’m the claim guy. I like to have fun when I surf, these guys are emotionless robots. JJF: What about Nate’s claim behind Duane Desoto? (All laugh). EO: That was way gnarlier than mine, but it was a double barrel. NF: I couldn’t not. It was like my hands went up without me even knowing.

Freesurf: What would you say was the most perfect session you had together? NF: That April swell? EO: Nah, some of these guys weren’t here. JJF: How about that one morning session where you and me paddled out early and then we were all out last winter. NF: When we paddled out and there was no one out. JJF: Yeah, just our crew. NF: Did they come out after? JJF: Ya, ‘cause Eli and Koa tried to roust me for body climbing that one wave. NF: Oh yeah! haha. (All laugh). Nathan enjoys reading books, and the inside of the barrel. Freesurf: Who has the best claim out of all you guys? 50


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Freesurf: Do you guys have a bit of a pack mentality when you surf, or is it more like every man for himself? KR: We stick together. NF: No we stick together. EO: Definitely. KR: If we go somewhere, we always paddle out at the same time. NF: We sit in the same spot. Always in the same zone. Freesurf: Why? EO: We’re always watching over each other. Like, Nate packed a nuts closeout this morning and me and John were both almost paddling into Aint’s (next to Backdoor) because his board was just tombstoning. We definitely keep an

eye out for each other. NF: Ya yesterday, your wave you went over on... (points to Koa) I was like whooah..(motions a frantic paddle). EO: But then, sure enough I hit my head on the reef this morning and these guys had no idea. KJ: You hit your head on the reef? EO: Ya, slammed my head. KJ: Oh snap. Freesurf: Who’s the gnarliest charger? JJF: (In a deeper voice) Koa Himalaya Teahupoo Rothman! KJ: Koa definitely got the gnarliest wave ever. KR: What? I think Ivan’s the nutsest. NF: Ivan’s the youngest and he’s gone on the biggest waves almost. JJF: Wait, (tapping Eli) what did that thing say on STAB? EO: Tamed.. Tamed the Chopes..

JJF: “Koa, Tame the Chopes Biggest Wave Ever Rothman”. (laughs and continues..) “Koa, Chope Tamer Biggest Wave Ever Rothman”! KR: Shutup! NF: I think we’re basically all on the same level. If one of us gets a big one, we’re all going to want the same big one. We’re all going to go. JJF: Yeah, there hasn’t really been a wave where... EO: ...I feel like we’d all go on it. Freesurf: Who has the best or worst nickname? JJF: Worst nickname? Nathan is Nasty Nate. KJ: Koa has the worst nickname but we can’t talk about it.

NF: Oh yaaa... KR: What? I don’t even know about it. (John John mutters something) KR: Oh no… Freesurf: Who’s the biggest rouster? EO: John. JJF: No. That’s not true. EO: Ya, he starts everything, then if you say something he’ll just be like, ‘woah, what are you trying to roust for?’ NF: Ya. JJF: No. Eli tells me he’s going to beat me up and stuff. (All laugh). EO: After you roust me! JJF: I have a video of him telling me he’s going to beat me up. Haha. KJ: Where is that? (to John). JJF: On my computer right now (to Kiron).

KR:We stick together. NF: No we stick together. EO: Definitely. KR: If we go somewhere,we always paddle out at the same time. NF:We sit in the same spot. Always in the same zone.

“Don’t do it, i’ll beat you up,” (immitating Eli) (Kiron laughing). Freesurf: Who’s the most active on social media and all that? KR: John John. NF: John for sure. JJF: No! KR: He’s always on his phone. JJF: I’m never on my phone. EO: John’s always on his phone. JJF: Eli’s always on his phone! We were at my house the other day and we didn’t have wifi, and Eli’s like, ‘come on, we got to go to the other house so we can have internet’. EO: No way. JJF: What?! Were you not freaking out because there was no internet? EO: I wasn’t… because I didn’t have reception. KR: Eli’s pretty bad...Pandora.


Heff

Ivan Forence, the fun side of fearless.

EO: That’s music. Freesurf: Who’s the biggest surf junky, like, will just surf all day? EO: John. NF: John will do like, 8 hour sessions. KR: Kiron is too. NF: Kiron will surf like 6 times a day. JJF: I think me and Kiron are. I don’t know. KJ: We’ve kind of always been like that...since we were little. JJF: I feel like I psych too hard sometimes, on sh*tty waves. EO: Ya you do! NF: They both do. Freesurf: Who’s the least? (Silence). JJF: Eli’s always psyched but he never believes me. KR: Kiron’s pretty lazy. KJ: Yeah.. 54

KR: He’s like a slug. KJ: For sure... (All laugh). KJ: That’s unreal. JJF: That’s unreal. KR: That’s unreal. (All laugh). KR: No, I’m just joking.

Freesurf: Who has the most boards? KR: Who do you think has the most boards? EO: John John. Some of us pay for our boards. KR: Ya... Any board sponsors out there want to hook it up? EO: Ya... We’ll get barreled if you give us boards. KR: I’ll cartwheel.

Freesurf: Who’s the most in-shape? JJF: Nathan. He trains. NF: No Eli is. JJF: Ya, actually Eli’s kinda the most in-shape one.

pau

Freesurf: Who’s the least in-shape? EO: John. (All laugh and agree). Freesurf: Who works out the least? JJF: Me. I don’t work out at all. I just surf a lot.


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Aperture


How many 50-year-old grandfathers do you know doing this? Derek Ho, inside the fountain of youth. Photo: Brent


JD Irons, arms wide open to welcome Pipeline’s long awaited embrace. Photo: Bruno Lemos


Koa Smith matches power with power and turns Haleiwa inside out. Photo: Dane Grady


Thank you Kelia Moniz for bringing us back to the beauty of wave sliding. Photo: Tony Heff


There’s more than windmills harnessing Maui’s gusty trade winds. Albee Layer uses the Valley Isle’s most plentiful natural resource to help pull this backside indi. Photo: DJ Struntz/A-Frame


Makua Rothman lives a charmed life. After traveling the world playing music and chasing monster swells, he comes home to this as his playground. Photo: Tony Heff


To err is human, to air is divine. Aaron Swanson getting lofty. Photo: Bryce Johnson


Caught inside, Shane Dorian dives through an avalanche of water at Peahi. Photo: Sofia Louca


Jason Childs / A-Frame

Spotlight / Alex Florence

Catching up with North Shore Super Surf Mom By Lauren Rolland Alex Florence (a.k.a. Momjohn) wears an array of different hats. Single mom, longboarder, John, Nathan and Ivan’s business and travel manager, skater/dirtbiker, college graduate, world tripper. This woman’s personality is like the cut of a diamond- multi faceted for exceptional brilliance. A story for every stepping-stone of life, Alex’s experiences are unique considering where life is at today for the Florences, but we all know it’s the hardships that build character. The story begins with a 16 year-old New Jersey surfer girl, starry eyed over Hawaii after growing up on movies like ‘Beyond Blazing Boards’- a flick about surfing’s evolution during the mid 1980’s- and surfing with her brothers and sisters in oversized wetsuits. Packing up and leaving home, Alex hit the North Shore as a young, beautiful, free spirited female and was quickly swooped up into the lifestyle she had always dreamed of. 72

It’s easy for Alex to get lost behind the moniker Momjohn, and many would be surprised to know Alex actually dislikes this nickname. Water photographers Darren Crawford and Todd Messick started referring to the quiet mother of three as Momjohn because although Alex was always surfing and on the beach with the boys, no one actually knew her name. But everyone was quickly beginning to know John John by name. So Alex simply became John’s mom, or Momjohn. Even though Alex has always hated the alias, she feels after ten years it’s best to just embrace it. “Kind of how you would deal with a bully at school,” Alex mentions. But flying just below the radar is how this humble soul likes it- especially when home on the small, yet buzzing surf town of the North Shore. It’s easy to lump this woman into the limelight of her sons, thinking the media and industry is someplace she wants to be. But really Alex is just a modest, soft-spoken working and surfing mom trying her best to keep the family bonds tight and the egos to a minimum.

Maverick by nature and surfer girl at heart, Alexandra Helen Florence has proved that success doesn’t come from handouts, luck or financial wealth. The payoff for this family came from working through hard times together, living life to the fullest and accomplishing something every single day. Here’s a little more about the wonderful life of Alex Florence. Where’s your favorite place to surf? I like to sit on the shoulder of Pipe when it’s west and catch the wide ones, that’s my favorite. Or if Pipe is small I’ll go to the peak but it’s got to be west or else I’ll surf Pupes, Ehukai or Gums, or even Gas Chambers. And Chuns, I like Chuns too. Wherever it looks most fun for me. What board are you riding now? That Travis Reynolds board right there. (Points to the classic single fin log in the grass.) He’s been shaping my boards for a long time now and he’s just getting better and better. That’s pretty much the magic board right there.


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Spotlight / Alex Florence First car? Worst wipeout? Oh wow, I’ve had some pretty bad ones. One time I was surfing Pipe, it was super north and I got caught inside and I just got super worked. I couldn’t tell which way was up. And my ear was all clogged. When you’re all spun around under water and you’re trying to figure out where you are, that’s pretty scary. Tell us a little bit about surfing on the East Coast versus Hawaii I started surfing there (New Jersey) every summer when I was about 10. But we didn’t have anything, just old junky boards and wetsuits that were too big. So really when I got here I just got straight into it every day. It’s more of a novelty to surf there when you’re young because those summers are pretty short and then winter it’s 5 mil wetsuits and snow on the beach. It’s more about being out in the elements than real surfing when you’re a little kid.

I had a 1960 Valiant. It was blue and it had two white doors. I lived on Kauai for a little while and I bought it over there. They used to have this radio station over there... it’s the funniest thing. You’d be listening to the radio and you’d call in and people would have stuff for sale. I guess it’s like Craigslist now, but instead it was on the radio. You’d call in and tell the guy what you needed, what you’re looking for. So I called in and said, ‘I’m looking for a good, running car and I only have $400 to spend.’ I had that car for 10 years or so. Your first house? The same day I arrived this girl picked me up

You were 16 when you moved to the NS… Yep. I had won some money in a bikini contest and I came to Hawaii with my winnings. Actually I stopped in California and did another bikini contest at the OP Pro. A long time ago they used to have those big bikini contests in Huntington Beach and I made 10th finalist and then I came straight to Hawaii. There were only a handful of girls it seemed like on the North Shore. And definitely not that many that surfed. It’s funny because it was like the North Shore just took me in with open arms. It was real easy for me, I didn’t have any problems and everything just kind of clicked, lots of aloha for me here when I first came. Where was your first job? My first job was being an extra in the movie ‘North Shore’. And then my second job was at Storto’s sub place. And then I moved on to Pizza Bob’s and then I worked at Steamer’s. Of course I got fired from all of them!

we moved in a month later. That was about 13 years ago. Any challenges you faced when moving out here? Not really. I think I had a guardian angel or something. But I don’t think there were many little girls coming to the North Shore; it was kind of the Wild West still. Yeah, but it was all good, I had a lot of protective big brothers and it was cool. What book are you reading? Right now I’m not reading anything to be honest. But we spend so much time in airports these past few years that I’m picking up books in airplane stores and just reading them in the plane. I just read this book “Tinkers” but it wasn’t very good, so I wouldn’t recommend it (laughing). I like the classics, I read them over and over again. I was just reading some Bukowski… you just have to appreciate him for his style of writing and kind of rise above the content of it. What’s the most important lesson you’ve strived to teach your sons?

hitch hiking. She asked, ‘You need a place to live?’ And I was like, ‘I do!’ She had a room for rent for $50 a month at V Land on the mountainside and it was really cool, so I lived there. It was a little outdoor room. We (Alex and the three boys) used to live down that little dirt road right there and it was just me and the kids at that point. John was about 6 or 7 and we had a year notice to be out of that house, they were going to do some heavy renovating. I was like, oh no. I’m with my three little kids and I was going to school full time. But this was a vacation rental (the home she’s in now) and the owners happened to be in town. John and I were walking up to check the waves and I said to him, ‘Let’s just ask them’. He was like a little adult at this time and so he said, ‘Okay mom, let’s go ask.’ And we walked up and we knocked on the door and I just said, ‘Hey would you consider long term renting this?’ And they were like, ‘Yeah we would.’ And

Just that they’re good and honest and humble. And they are. We spent a lot of years being really, really poor and John was kind of the man of the household, so they’re coming from a good place, a real soulful place. I just think that if anything, our struggle has helped them as individuals become pretty solid people. Do you skate with the boys? Yeah, we do, we just went like a day ago, it was really fun. I’m glad that I can go do that with them. They don’t ride dirt bikes so I don’t really share that with them, but we all skate. I skate with Ivan a lot and John all the time, on the road we skate a lot. Bowls and parks, it’s really fun. How’d you get into dirt biking? I went a few times with some friends up to the track and I was just hooked. I ended up buying a dirt bike and then I bought a trials bike. Do you have a favorite Pandora station?


I listen to a variety of music. I like everything from Billie Holiday to Black Sabbath and Ozzy, and lately I’ve been listening to the Black Lips. I mostly listen to old music and like I said Sabbath. Heavy metal. What are you doing for work? I work for my sons. I’m basically everything from slave, cook, cleaner, errand runner to businesswoman. It’s a full time job. And it’s good because it keeps the money circulating in our little family and ya know, no one’s going to love them more than me. You have their best interest in mind. Yeah so, it’s just better. And I can’t let go of that because I’m like, ‘no, I can do that for nothing, why would you pay that person?’ And he (John) gets like, ‘mom you don’t need to do everything’. Just from raising a family by myself I guess I’m a little bit old school that way, I can’t let go. But it’s a good thing. What’s the best part about returning home to the North Shore after traveling? After you’re away for a while you start dreaming of home. And that smell when you come onto the North Shore… and then the winter. Like that swell we just had the other day, I couldn’t stop watching it, it was amazing and just out of the blue. It was so exciting, literally the first days of winter. Quote that you try to live by? I have always tried to live life to the fullest and I think that’s important. Maybe that’s a quote, I don’t know. But definitely try to accomplish a lot every single day. There isn’t too many sitting around days in our family, and I never put up with it either. We never had TV or video games. I always told them to get out, go play outside. pau

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Latronic

Grom Report / Noah Beschen By Sean Reilly North Shore super grom Noah Beschen has been blowing up everywhere from New Smyrna to Germany. Son of progressive surfing legend Shane Beschen, Noah has inherited a deadly air game and silkysmooth style. Not many teens can link together critical barrel sections and lofty frontside reverses like this 8th grade shralper. Mini Besch just turned thirteen, but has a video archive more impressive than most guys on the QS. The most recent edition to Noah’s video library is Teenage / Eve, an extended edit by Arron Lieber. Noah shreds a skate park, rips a beach break, tears apart a standing wave and weaves his way through a congested line-up in a 9-minute clip that will leave you wanting more. But don’t worry; this talent-packed teen is only getting started. It is only a matter of time before Noah is turning heads on the World Tour.

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As for now, Noah utilizes his surreal surroundings to their full potential. When the little ripper isn’t punting full rotations at Rockies, or pigdoging barrels at Pipe, you can catch him cave diving at Sharks Cove, rock jumping at Waimea Bay or climbing coconut trees along the bike path. As talented as he is blessed, Noah is a stand out in whatever he puts his mind to. This North Shore local can shut you down in a game of ping-pong, break your ankles on the basketball court, get nuts on a trampoline, slay kumu with his three prong, and nail a bull’s eye with a bow and arrow… Oh and did I mention this kid surfs and skates?! Yes, this young grommet is quite a spectacle. But don’t let his fantasy life give you the wrong impression; Noah takes in successes with a tall glass of humility. Mini Besch resonates stoke, shows respect to all and


Latronic

Grom Report / Noah Beschen

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exemplifies the Aloha Spirit. Just above his wetsuit tan and behind a thick layer of Vertra, you can always find a gleaming smile from ear to ear.

Get barreled then hit the air section.

Freesurf had a chance to sit down with Noah and pick his brain; here is what the high flying, fun loving, coconut muncher had to say;

Waffles or pancakes?

Hometown: North Shore, Oahu DOB: November 18, 2000 Height/ Weight: 4’11/ 78 lbs. Stance: Regular Home break: Rockies/ Pipeline/ Backdoor Favorite Session: KirraGoldcoast, Australia Favorite Grindz: In-N-Out Burger Addictions: Fun & coconuts Sponsors: Hurly, Lost, Neff

Chess or checkers? Chess Competition or video shoot? Competition and video… So both. Waffles for sure! Cats or dogs? Dogs for sure! Cool Ranch or Nacho Cheese? Cool Ranch. Rap or rock? Rock, then some rap. Books or movies? Movies. Sunrise or sunset? Sunrise. Drums or guitar? Piano. Mullets or mohawks?

Thruster or quad?

Mullets.

Thruster.

Lion or tiger?

Smooth or chunky?

Lions.

Smooth and chunky.

Last words for the Freesurf

Skittles or M&Ms?

audience?

Skitttles.

Stay dry!

Air section or barrel?


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The largest junior surfing event in the sport’s history, the ISA World Junior Surfing Championship began in 1980 as a division of the ISA World Championships. The inaugural event took place in Biarritz, France and saw legendary USA surfer Tom Curren as the first ever ISA World Junior Surfing Champion, an esteemed title that continues to hold the prestige and honor of this Olympic style event. This association gathers the best junior surfers together from every continent to


compete for medals and the honor of representing their national team. Since 1996 the Sands of the World Ceremony has showcased the ISA’s mission to bond all the surfing nations together. With 300 competitors from over 30 different countries, The ISA World Junior Surfing Championships successfully unites the sport’s best under 18 athletes in a show of sportsmanship, camaraderie and privilege. The tradition of surfing in Hawai‘i and the converging thread of the aloha spirit has come to define the Verizon Hawaii Surf Team as they travel abroad to spread aloha as ambassadors of Hawai‘i.


Red Bull

Two-time world champion Carissa Moore was on the Verizon Hawaii Surf Team in 2004 and 2005. In 2004 the event was held at Papeno’o, Tahiti and the Hawaii team placed third. The following year the event was held at Huntington Beach, California and the team placed first. How have those competitions contributed to your success? Competing in the ISA events were a great introduction for me to travel the world, surf against international athletes and learn how to adjust to new surf breaks and places. They were my first trips that I worked with different coaches and learned to be more independent. What was representing Hawaii like in those events? I loved the experience. Surfing is such an individual sport so it was so fun to be a part of a team and be a part of something bigger than myself. It was so fun to meet people from all over the world, learn about their different cultures and make memories that last a lifetime. How did being on the team help you grow as a person? Being on a team helped me see the bigger picture in life. It’s not always about you and how far you go. It’s about helping the team be as best as they can be. It’s about being happy for the success of others even if you don’t make it as far. In the end it’s about elevating the team and the sport as a whole. Did you work closely with Hawaii coaches you hadn’t otherwise worked with? I usually just work closely with my dad as a coach, but this gave me the opportunity to branch out and get to know Rainos Hayes, Bert Ishimaru and Donald Pahia. It was great for me to see a lineup through someone else’s eyes and take a different approach to surfing a heat. I have definitely learned and taken with me little bits and pieces from everyone I have met along my journey. Surfing is a solo sport mostly so what was it like competing as part of a team? It was such a unique experience competing as part of a team. You become a family when you’re on the road, eating, sleeping, surfing and traveling together. It was so much fun going down to the beach and cheering on my teammates and also having that support from my teammates when I was competing. People that you usually compete against at home are cheering you on. It gives you an opportunity to build new relationships and embrace your competitors in a different light. 82


Under 18 Boys

Josh Moniz

Seth Moniz

“Always respect your elders.”

“Just try to have fun.”

Home break: Waikiki. “It’s a really good place to learn how to do new tricks and airs.” Inspirations: “I think the people who inspire me to surf are my family and all my friends that do it. Nothing is more fun than surfing with all your family and friends.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Anthony Walsh. “He posts a lot of sick Go Pro shots.”

Home break: Waikiki. “It’s where surfing started.” Inspirations: “I’d say my brothers and sister have a big role on my surfing. Since I’m the youngest, I kind of always just learned from them, since they were always a step ahead of me. They really push my surfing without even knowing it.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Shane Dorian. “Whether it’s pulling into huge caverns or hunting wild animals, he’s always doing something cool.”

Imai DeVault

Elijah Gates

“Just have fun.”

“You’re only as strong as you allow yourself to be.”

Home break: Lahaina and Ho‘okipa. “Ho‘okipa is known to be a tough wave to surf, real windy too.” Inspiration: I just love it and I can’t picture myself doing anything else. Favorite Pro on Instagram: Kelly Slater. “His photos are pretty cool and most of them are real informational.”

Home break: White Planes Beach. “It influences my surfing a lot because it’s good training for small surf and allows me to shine in bad waves because I get a lot of practice in them.” Inspirations: “My inspiration is Andy Irons because of his raw emotion and power when it came to surfing and he willed anything he wanted to come to him. He was just one with the ocean.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Paul Fisher. “He is hilarious.”


Under 18 Boys

Shayden Dela Cruz Pacarro

Ulu Napeahi

“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

“Legends live on in those who were touched by the presence of heroes.”

Home break: Pohoiki, Big Island. “No one is hardly around here, but the wave has many different characters. And people treat each other like family.” Inspiration: “What inspires me to surf is my love for it.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Julian Wilson. “He posts the sickest punt sequences.”

Under 16 Boys

Home break: Waiuli. “Waiuli has a really playful reef break, with combinations of sections, it’s always really fun for every level of surfing. Inspirations: “I’m inspired by my personal attachment with the ocean, and the feeling of joy I get from surfing. However, the ocean plays a huge role in my family’s daily life.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: “I admire so many ‘pros’ personally because I know their personalities and actions in everyday life!”

Barron Mamiya

Cody Young

“Never give up.”

“No worries, just rush.”

Home break: Haleiwa. “I like how you can draw your lines out there. My dad takes me down there after school is done and I surf there for the rest of the day.” Inspiration: “My dad inspired me to surf when I was a little kid. He showed me how to surf and really pushed me.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Josh Kerr.

Home break: Ho’okipa. “It’s the windsurfing capitol of the world. The wind makes it difficult but that’s why it’s such a good training wave. The wind is also the reason why there are so many good aerialists from Maui because of the trades that blow into the lefts.” Inspirations: “My friends, especially Imai Devault. Every time I surf with people that are better than me, it makes me want to go bigger and surf faster. I like getting pushed in that sort of way.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Albee Layer. “He follows me back.”


Under 16 Boys

Finn McGill

Noa Mizuno

“Don’t golf in a lightening storm.”

“Never take life so seriously, nobody makes it out alive anyway!”

Home break: Haleiwa. “The North Shore has the best surf in the world and you get to surf with all the pros.” Inspirations: “Originally my parents. They would always surf and I wanted to get out there with them. But now I’m inspired because surfing let’s you be free to express yourself.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Paul Fisher. “Definitely.”

Home break: “I grew up surfing Waikiki then progressed to Kewalo’s and Sandy’s. Kewalos was a major stepping stone for myself, and it seems like there’s always waves there. Inspiration: “My dad and my mom. They’ve helped me so much to get where I am now. They motivate me to dream big and to never give up in and out of the water.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Ross Williams.

Kaulana Apo

Chris Bluthardt

“Don’t forget to have fun.”

“Love the life you live, live the life you love.”

Home break: Kewalos. “There is always waves to surf and since it’s always breaking, you can always get some practice in.” Inspirations: “I am inspired by the beauty of Hawai‘i and just being surrounded by water and seeing great waves everywhere, no matter which side of the island you’re on. Also all of the great legends that I’ve looked up to my whole life.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Joel Centeio. “He has the funniest pictures of his two sons.”

Home break: Barber’s Point. “It simulates like a beach break and is a good place to train for contests that have smaller waves.” Inspiration: “Ace Buchan is someone that really inspires me because he was on tour for such a long time with only one win (a CT event in 2008). He continued to train and work hard on the tour for the next 5 years, finally winning his second event in Tahiti this year. Just shows me that hard work and dedication pays off.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Matt Wilkinson. “He posts hilarious pictures and he has sick wetsuits.”


Under 18 Girls

Tatiana Weston-Webb

Bailey Nagy

“Two things define you. Your patience when you have nothing, and your attitude when you have everything.”

“If your dreams don’t scare you, then they’re not big enough.”

Home break: Pinetrees. “It constantly changes and it has bred some of the best surfers in the world including Andy, Bruce and Bethany. Inspirations: “I was first inspired to surf by my brother, Troy WestonWebb, and now I look up to all the girls on tour, especially Malia and Carissa.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Jamie O’Brien. “He has some of the best ones!”

Home break: Rocky Point. “It’s a perfect left hand point break with occasional perfect right hand waves!” Inspirations: “My dad and my boyfriend are my two main inspirations when it comes to surfing! They both love the sport and it makes me love it so much more!” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Coco Ho. “She has a wide variety of photos and they are all extremely cute!”

Under 16 Girls

Maluhia Kinimaka

Mainei Kinimaka

“Anything is possible if you commit to a cause.”

“In the end, it’s not going to matter how many breaths you took, but how many moments took your breath away.”

Home break: East side of Kauai. “I can go there at almost any time and there will maybe be one or two people out. I’m thankful I don’t have to deal with a crowd.” Inspirations: “I love surfing for many reasons. It helps me stay healthy in both body and mind. In addition, I am inspired to surf because it is the sport of my ancestors and I aim to perpetuate my culture through surfing.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: John John Florence, Julian Wilson, and Dane Reynolds.

Home break: Kealia Beach. “What makes it unique is its unpredictability. It’s a sloppy sandbar that’s different every day and it has taught me how to surf in every type of condition, Big, small, windy, glassy, closing out or lining up.” Inspiration: “Continuing my family’s legacy of surfing is my inspiration. I want to follow the footsteps of my father.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Dane Reynolds. “His posts are really weird and funny and his girlfriend’s are too.”


Under 16 Girls

Mahina Maeda

Kahanu Delovio

“Only a life lived for others is a life worth while.”

“As a face is reflected in water so the heart reflects the real person. Fire tests the purity of silver and gold but a person is tested by being praised.”

Home break: Sunset Beach. “Sunset Beach is one of the heaviest and hardest waves to surf. For me to grow up and learn how to surf this wave is a true honor and there are major events that they run at the this spot.” Inspiration: “My Dad inspires me to surf. He got me to love the sport, and he taught me how to surf, and helped me accomplish my goals in surfing.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Jamie O’Brien

Home break: Banyans and Kohanaiki. “There is so much aloha spirit at Banyans; Its just such a beautiful place and an awesome wave.” Inspiration: “What made me want to become a professional was that I hope to share the love of Jesus through what I love to do and surfing is what I love.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Carrisa Moore. “She is an outstanding role model, someone I really look up to and aspire to be like.”

Dax McGill

Brisa Hennessy

“Actions speak louder than words.”

“There is only this moment. It’s never coming back so live it to the fullest and smile.”

Home break: Haleiwa. “I think my home break is the whole North Shore. Every wave is so perfect in its own way.” Inspiration: “Surfing is something I just want and need to do every day to feel complete. When I look for inspiration I always look to the people on the top, the ones that get to travel the world and surf and compete for world titles in these amazing locations all around the world, and I want to be one of those people.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Julian Wilson. “Of course.”

Home break: Kalamas and Wraps. “In the winter we spend a lot of time on the North Shore and I love V-land, Lanis and Pupukea. In the summer, Bowls, Kewalos and Kaisers are my fav’s.” Inspiration: “Watching all the pros surf inspires me - their oneness on a wave. The other side is seeing people like Carissa and Tyler who can be so famous and yet still so real and humble with a smile for everyone.” Favorite Pro on Instagram: Kelly Slater. “He writes and shares about life and experiences and food and good people.”


10 Things You Should Know About The Verizon Hawaii Surf Team 1 There are a total of 9 Hawaiians to win a gold medal at the ISA World Junior Championship: Kalani Robb, Joel Centeio, Tonino Benson, Keanu Asing, Dax McGill, Kalani David, Tatiana WestonWebb, Mahina Maeda and Josh Moniz.

2

Hawaii has been competing at the ISA Games since the event’s inception.

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Our Mission - Training Future Hawaii Champions The Verizon Hawaii Surf Team has been a major force in competitive surfing since its inception in 1964 at the first World Surfing Championships near Sydney, Australia. Surfers from Australia, Europe, the East and West Coasts of the United States and Hawai‘i showed face to set a precedent for world-class surfing. The event recognized the international surfing community through team unity and pride. The governing body of the biennial (every other year) event would eventually go on to become the ASP. From the fledging beginnings of the International Surfing Association (ISA) contest circuit, Hawai‘i has been respected and revered as “the birthplace of surfing” and given the status of Island Nation as opposed to being grouped together with the mainland U.S. This has given Hawai‘i surfers a unique pride and sense of community that is unmatched across the globe. Pioneering Hawai‘i surfers like Jock Sutherland, Jeff Hakman, LeRoy Ah Choy, Jimmy Lucas and Paul Strauch carried the torch in ’66, with Jock placing second at the second event in San Diego, CA, which saw a greater diversity in its competitors. In 1968, Fred Hemmings became Hawai‘i’s first ISA World Champion. Since then, the title has been considered an indication of world-class competitive talent and a measure

Thanks to George Downing, Hawaii competes as its own Island Nation, as we are the birthplace of surfing. Although Hawaiians were riding waves around 400 years ago, we are ever grateful to Duke Kahanamoku for introducing surfing to the world. Another thanks to Fred Hemmings, who paved the way for future champs with his inaugural win and continual dedication to the sport.

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Currently there are 7 former Verizon Hawaii Surf Team members on the World Championship Tour: Freddy P, Dusty, Carissa, Coco, Malia, Alana, and Seabass!

5 Of the 4 gold medals offered in last year’s ISA games at Playa Santana in Nicaragua, Hawaii took home 3- a feat that has never before been accomplished!

6 18 & Under Men’s Champ Josh Moniz, 18 & Under Women’s Champ Tatiana Weston-Webb and 16 & Under Women’s Champ Mahina Maeda will be back this year to defend their titles and go for consecutive world championships!

of success in the surf industry. In 1980, emphasis was placed on young competitors and

7 Hawaii took the overall gold medal in 2005 at

the Juniors Division was created.

Huntington Beach and again in Panama in 2012.

Following in those hallowed footsteps of the master of style, Kalani Robb was the ISA

8 Head Coach Rainos Hayes has been working

Junior Champion in 1994, winning in Brazil. Then Joel Centeio snatched the title in 2000

with the Hawaii team for 17 years.

in Brazil. The junior portion of the competition became so popular, it split off and became its own event. In 2005, Tonino Benson won the World Junior Title in Huntington Beach, CA and to top if off, the Hawai‘i Team finally came away with the gold medal. The tradition of surfing in Hawai‘i and the converging thread of the aloha spirit has come to define the Hawaii Surf Team as they travel abroad, spreading aloha as ambassadors of Hawai‘i. This year, the Verizon Wireless Hawaii Surf Team will travel to Ecuador, where they will go up against the top amateur surfers from over 30 countries on six continents. Not only do they compete as individuals, but the Olympic-style format (ISA is officially recognized by the International Olympic Committee) gives them the greater challenge and goal to work together as a team in hopes of securing the gold medal for Hawai‘i.

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The Verizon Hawaii Surf Team wears the kukui nut lei in the opening ceremonies of the event. Then with true aloha spirit, gives them away to other competitors at the conclusion of the games!

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Throughout the ISA World Junior Championship history, Hawaii has consistently medaled.


The Coaches

Get to know the Verizon Hawaii Surf Team coaches a little more through the eyes of the athletes. Equally hard working and determined, here’s what a few of the kids had to say about Bert, Rainos and Kahea.

Bert Ishimaru The Voice of Reason

“Bert Ishimaru is extremely humble and knows what is good for you. He is extremely smart and knows literally everything there is to know about surfing! When it comes to surfboards he’s the guy to ask!” “Bert is an amazing family man who would take anyone under his wing and care for them with unconditional love! Thanks for doing that for everyone who has been on the Hawaii Surf Team.” “Bert really gets everyone psyched up before all the heats. He also used to judge surf contests so he knows what the judges are thinking when they give us a certain score. It’s a huge advantage because then we know what we have to change up in our surfing.”

Rainos Hayes The Catalyst

“Rainos is amazing. He’s coached 8 of us to win individual world titles at ISA’s and two team gold medals. Not too many coaches can say they have done that!” “Rainos is such an amazing person and coach. I don’t know how to explain it, but he has this calmness around him that calms me and gets me in the zone. At the same time he is so strong and has a wise and powerful way to share his knowledge of surfing and to inspire.” “It’s apparent that Rainos dedicates a lot of time and effort into keeping the team united and thriving. He is virtually the glue that bonds every aspect of the organization together, the leader of the Hawaii Surf Team.”

Kahea Hart The Drill Sergeant

“Kahea is really dedicated to surfing. He trains hard and is always keeping up with the kids. It’s really cool for him to take his own time and help us all become better athletes. He also does a really good job training/coaching the younger generation of Hawaii.” “Kahea is a task-master. He can be really hard on you - but he knows how much all of us want it and he will push us past our limits to get to it.” “Kahea is so passionate about what he does. What makes Kahea stand out is his talent to see what a student needs to do to get better, and his ability to make that happen. He knows what makes the kids strong, tough and smart in any kind of surf.”

Follow Us!

www.HawaiiSurfTeam.org


Environment

Growing Buckets Surfers take food security into their own hands. So can you. By Tiffany Hervey Photos Chrystal Thornburg-Homcy Surfers can tend to be health nuts. Many competitors and Pipe specialists have found over time that leaner bodies running on cleaner fuel perform at the highest level. Gerry Lopez introduced the surf masses to the benefits of yoga. World tour competitors like Kelly Slater eat clean to stay lean. But lately, especially in Hawaii, eating healthy has become more complicated. With the secrecy and onslaught of controversial GMO practices and heavy use of pesticides on conventional crops, it’s not as easy as just eating your veggies anymore. Aloha Aina Warrior Dustin Barca has taken on the battle with the GMO companies in Hawaii. Some surfers, like Patagonia Ambassadors Crystal Thornburg-Homcy and Kohl Christenson are growing their own food, in whatever space they have. Let them inspire us to reconnect to where our food comes from and let this be a resource for those wanting to learn more.

Crave Greens “Being a professional athlete, one must stay fit by eating the healthiest food possible,” Crystal Thornburg-Homcy says, who as an ambassador for Patagonia, is able to travel

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the world for work, which gives her the opportunity to learn from other farmers about their techniques for growing organic produce. She has also gathered information over the years about how to grow organic produce from University classes, volunteering with various organizations, reading books and articles, trial and error, talking with friends and fellow gardeners, blogs, and videos. Crystal and her husband, surf cinematographer Dave Homcy, grow their food in two—6x10 foot and 8x12 foot— raised garden beds. “We grow using raised beds so it keeps more pests out and we can add organic soil that’s been tested,” Crystal explains. Her garden is currently producing arugula, beets, okra, collards, butter lettuce, kale, radish, green onion, chili, swiss chard, taro, pineapple, mint, oregano, rosemary, and turmeric. Her trees are also growing mango, lime, lemon, grapefruit, tangerine, avocado, lychee, cacao, and fig. “Not only is growing our own food cheaper than shopping for it at a health food store, we know it’s organic because we have been involved with it every step of the way,” Crystal explains. “I encourage anyone interested in growing their own food to just start with whatever space available, even if it’s just a bucket on the porch or some planters in the window. You can learn almost anything from Youtube and Google these days. Seek out free workshops or local, small farmers in your area to learn.”

Free Food Anyone on the island of Oahu can take a step toward food sovereignty by attending a free weekend workshop at Geobunga, which offers one of the most popular free gardening workshop series available on the island. The weekend workshops held at the Salt Lake location, range from organic farming to pizza gardens to container gardens and banana plant fundamentals. Geobunga hosted nearly 20 free public seminars in 2013 and seeks to build on that for 2014. Geobunga partnered with the University of Hawaii to feature its agriculture students as guest instructors, who teach attendees how simple it can be to grow great tasting, pesticide-free food in your own backyard or lanai. “If you don’t have a large yard, or rent and don’t want to dig in too deep to your yard or only have an apartment porch, container gardens are a great option,” explains Geobunga executive director, Andrew Dedrick. “Container gardens are smaller and more versatile, they are moveable, they bring the garden up off the ground, which means fewer pest issues, and they bring a sense of beauty to your home.” Window gardens are also great options for people who don’t have a garden or lanai, but still want fresh, organic herbs and


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Growing Buckets Continued small vegetables in their kitchen. Andrew says the key to successful container gardens is to group plants with similar light and water needs. “We can grow fresh produce year-round, thanks to Hawaii’s mild climate and sunny weather,” he says, citing herbs like basil, green onions, oregano and rosemary, as well as lettuce greens, eggplant, and tomatoes. “Some of the easiest plants to care for are those commonly used in cooking. While preparing dinner, it’s easy to just break off some herbs or gather some lettuce for a salad. Not only is it extremely fresh, but you know exactly who has been in contact with it, it saves money, and it’s readily available.” To attend one of Geobunga’s FREE garden workshops in 2014, see the schedule at geobunga.com

Tree to Table & Plant to Plate

GLOW your skin

Fruit trees and plants are some of the easiest items to keep alive and harvest food from, especially ones we might already have in our yard or neighborhood that go underutilized. The Breadfruit Institute seeks to revitalize ‘ulu (breadfruit) as an attractive, delicious, nutritious, abundant, affordable and culturally appropriate food. The Ho’oulu ka ‘Ulu project, a half-day workshop happening throughout the Islands in January, will teach people how to harvest, store and prepare breadfruit through an introduction to varieties; harvesting; postharvest handling; kitchen preparation and cooking, pricing and products; market perspectives; and traditional breadfruit dishes of the Pacific. Ho’oulu ka ‘Ulu Workshops for January 2014: Maui - 1/9 Oahu - 1/10 Kauai - 1/11 More details at: breadfruit.info

Alex Carcamo, MD, FAACS, FAAD Eric Yukumoto, PA-C Andrea Kissling, PA-C COMPLETE DERMATOLOGY 100 Kahelu Avenue, Suite 226 Mililani, HI 96789 808-621-1000 Monday – Friday, 7:30AM – 4PM General and Cosmetic Dermatology All Insurance Plans Welcome

Banana plants are relatively quick to produce fruit and easy to care for in that they just grow faster and bigger with more sunlight, water, and fertilizer. “It is impossible to give them too much sunlight, and difficult to over fertilize or water under normal circumstances, so no special specific knowledge is needed to grow them well,” says Gabe SachterSmith, banana researcher at CTAHR in the University of Hawaii’s Department of Tropical Plant and Soil Science. “Just plant them in a sunny place, water, fertilize, and stand back.” If well cared for, Gabe says that banana plants can be nearly continuously fruiting with harvesting occurring every two to four months off of a single mature plant. Bananas can be purchased from many general plant nurseries, or young keiki plants can be dug up from a friend or neighbors yard and you can plant those, according to Gabe. pau


Heff

Art | Culture

Two Crows | Welzie Resin Art Seeps into the Surf Art Scene By Lauren Rolland You could say that Two Crows began in Welzie’s parent’s garage, back in Santa Cruz, California. He and Carl Olsen shaped their first boards together over fifteen years ago- business proposals and ideas scribbled in the pages of a notebook that Welzie’s mom still has tucked away. A precursor of the balance that was eventually to come, Carl’s first shape came out perfect while Welzie was more focused on the painting and glassing part of the process. Needless to say his board turned out terrible. Or you could say Two Crows began in Charlie Walker’s shaping room at the sugar mill in Waialua. Here Carl and Welzie were given total creative freedom to doodle, drip and draw from floor to ceiling. Charlie was Welzie’s number one mentor as far as surfboard building goes, but he also provided the space for the pair to be sloppy and experimental. Charlie was the one who allowed the creativeness to flow. And thus a uniquely loose style emerged from Welzie, resulting directly from those carefree work days in Charlie’s shop.

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You could also say that Two Crows began right before the death of Welzie’s multi-talented and inspiring grandfather. As a veteran, cartoonist, multi-lingual, amadextrous, musical kind of man, Grandpa Welzie lived an incredible life. During one of their last visits together, Welzie asked his grandfather what he was going to be when he came back. “A crow,” the old man replied. On the flight back to Oahu from California, Welzie was thumbing through the in-flight magazine when he saw an article on the Hawaiian crow, which was nearing extinction. An unmistakable sign, Welzie began a series of designs and paintings with the crow silhouette. The very first Two Crows board was designed during a wave lull on the North Shore. Welzie had convinced Carl to visit, telling him to bring all his big wave boards from Santa Cruz. But when he arrived the waves were almost completely flat. So Welzie figured they’d make a longboard at Joe DeMarco’s shop. But the artists ran out of cloth and fiberglass and had to cut up little scraps to piece together. Gray, black and red, this board was the first to sport the classic Two Crows ‘splooge’ (big white spot) and the crow logo. “Carl is a wizard in the shaping room, he’s been doing it for 15 years and can shape anything, even sharks,” describes Welzie. “And then adding that loose color, the freestyle, the sloppiness, there was this weird contradiction between the perfect lines of a surfboard and the craft.” And the partnership between Carl Olsen and Welzie stuck. “It felt like we opened up Pandora’s box,” explains the artist. Welzie and Carl realized that they could change up how the board was glassed. Add colors here, add patterns there… the two really wanted to take


Heff

Art | Culture

the idea to a new level, now they just needed surfboards to practice on. In the beginning, the duo worked long days for less than minimum wage, making boards as cheaply as possible. Craigslist was their number one market, but making rent at the shop was still a struggle. “We’re constantly gambling on ourselves,” Welzie remarks. Now, the gambling has paid off because Two Crows surfboards and Welzie Art are becoming more and more popular on Oahu. And Welzie finally has the workday dedicated fully to the art portion of the business. “I still do art on the surfboards, but I don’t have to do all the tedious labor of it. It’s kind of the same thing, but now the tedious labor is in the painting. With Two Crows, anything where you get freed up creatively is a good thing.” Freesurf interviewed the man behind the colorful craft at the Two Crows shop (at the Waialua Sugar Mill) for a little more insight into the personality and inspiration of Welzie Art. Describe Welzie Art. Fun. Loose. It’s so much about the process

than anything else. Stuff isn’t really thought out too well or planned out, it’s more just attacking the piece, moving fast and seeing what happens. Not being afraid to mess up gives you a lot more freedom. How do you come up with your quotes for some of the pieces? ‘I like my toes hung over’, that came from a road trip in Malibu we did for a contest. And being extremely hung over. I like play-on words. ‘Happy Days’, I first heard in Australia. ‘Single as a single fin’ came from being single all the time. And then I just started writing ‘simple small days’... The quotes come from everyday experiences, straight from what’s going on in my life that week. It’s fun when there’s something to be said and people actually get it. I’m not trying to change the world with my messages, but a little laughter doesn’t hurt. Who’s your inspiration? I’m a huge fan of all kinds of street art. When I was a kid I first started drawing on boards with paint pens. It was Drew Brophy from Lost that inspired me, and the quickness of his drawings.

I try to move quickly and connect lines, it gives it a more fluid and organic look, and that’s what graffiti is. So there are similarities. Also Jean-Michel Basquiat. He worked really fast and his style was loose and impromptu… spontaneous. And there was always a message in his work. As far as local artists go, Clark Little and Heather Brown are totally inspiring. Anyone who can make a living for what they love to do is successful. How’s your love life? (Laughing) Being a single non-pro surfer on the North Shore is interesting… It’s not by choice I guess, but sometimes the swimming pool is a bit shallow. Favorite spot to surf? The Beach Park, when it’s firing. I love longboarding Chun’s. And I’ve been to Scorpion Bay a few times which is pretty epic waves. What exactly is the process for your resin art?


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They’re built just like a surfboard. Instead of a shaped blank though it’s a piece of wood. The paintings get a layer of fiberglass laminated with pigmented resin. And then the pigmented color resin gets painted on over the fiberglass. And then a hot coat gets painted over, which gets sanded, and then the art (doodles) get drawn on. Then there’s another layer of resin (a gloss coat), which gets slightly sanded and then buffed out. Tell us your favorite part about winters on the North Shore. The waves without a doubt. I wish I had something deeper and more insightful to say. There’s a certain energy when a swell comes in, you can just feel it all day. Surf has always been the focal point of everything. Everything gets delivered to us, it’s a good place if you want to peoplewatch. We get to watch the World

Tour right at our door steps, we get to see funny looking tourists, all the girls show up, all the pro surfers- it’s totally entertaining, and it’s just for a short time. It’d be intense if it was year round, but it’s such a short period of time that you can enjoy it when it’s here and enjoy it when its gone. Wise Quotes from Welzie: “Consistently inconsistent.” “When there’s no restrictions, that’s when the fun things happen.” “Do what you love to do and work hard at it. Don’t be afraid to screw up a few times along the way.” pau

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Shoots /

John Hook We were out just trying to get normal night surfing shots in Waikiki one night, my friend brought out his waterproof Nikonos flash to experiment with. The swell started to die, and it got cloudy, so we were about to head in, then it started to rain. I’ve taken a few backlit photos in the rain before, but never in the middle of the ocean. I had my buddy with the flash position himself on the other side of my friend sitting on his surfboard, I took a long exposure (on bulb) then yelled over to my friend to pop his flash, I was insanely stoked with the result.

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JD Irons Sean Reilly


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Industry Notes Of course, there are those of us who are not satiated with gargantuan murals and need a little more of a thrill. You can find those cowboys of the sea competing for the win at the Body Glove Mavericks Invitational presented by GoPro. The one-day, invitation-only surf competition will bring 24 competitors together in the lineup at Mavericks to see who can really tame the beast. If you are particular and want to watch colossal waves in your favorite speedo, stick around the North Shore of Oahu just in case The Quicksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau runs this year. The list of invitees, featuring both local and international chargers, can be found online at the event’s website here quiksilverlive.com/eddieaikau/2014/

Hawaii local Torrey Meister is making headlines with his sweet surfing moves. The Big Island surfer took the 2013 O’Neill Coldwater Classic title, taking home the ultimate prize pack of an O’Neill sponsorship valued at $50,000. Meister had to duke it out with 16 other mostly unsponsored surfers at Steamer Lane to ultimately win his new contract. Speaking of sweet surfing moves, some unconventional ones were rewarded handsomely at the Ghouls and Goblins Surf Jam at Turtle Bay Resort. Costume clad competitors broke the mold and received prizes for being most in character, their upside down turtle and coffin poses, one foot wonders, boogieing backwards, and more. In other news, apparently size does matter, as Brazil’s Carlos

Burle can attest to. His ridiculously monstrous wave in Nazare, Portugal has some claiming it is the biggest wave ever ridden, though heavy hitters in the big wave game, like Laird Hamilton, feel strongly otherwise. Controversy aside, Guiness will ultimately determine if it was big enough to break the record.

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Now that you might be feeling a little sad and lonely since you were not invited to any surfing events, we have good news! You can still come to all of the awesome Vans Triple Crown of Surfing events that will be happening along our 7-mile stretch of glory. A list of all of the super mega fun events can be found at vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com/vtcs13/ calendar. Keep an eye out for the victory party that might be off the books, as Kelly Slater and Mick Fanning battle it out at their shallow, hollow, barreling Gladiator arena that is Pipeline. Try not to let the excitement and wonder build up too much inside of you as you contemplate who the next ASP World Title will go to; it will all be decided between December 8th and 20th at The Billabong Pipe Masters. Not into parties? Wanting to escape the abundance of beach bunnies and wave lovers that are flocking to the North Shore? Take a little hop over to Kona for the 10th Annual Kona Surf Film Festival. These international showcases of independent short and feature films will all have the common theme of different ways that we all ride waves. There will also be a sustainable art fair, acoustic music, and surprise special guests to titillate you during the weekend of January 31st through February 1st. And speaking of music and events, Surfrider Oahu’s John Kelly Environmental Achievement Awards took place on November 16th in Waimea Valley, with live ukulele melodies from Honolulu’s Taimane and acoustic folk rock sounds from Cynth & the What’s His Faces. Congratulations to North Shore local and Patagonia Ambassador Crystal Thornburg-Homcy who was recognized with the Professional Surfer Award. The annual awards dinner celebrates John Kelly, the legendary waterman and environmental leader who started Save Our Surf and fought to protect Hawaii’s coastlines from overdevelopment. Kelly and SOS helped save more than 140 surf sites in Hawaii.


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Industry Notes Hilo’s Oshima Collabs with The House of Marley The House of Marley, makers of premium crafted, earth-friendly personal audio products and accessories from the family of Bob Marley, kicked off a collaboration in Hilo, Hawaii on Saturday, November 16th with Oshima Surf and Skate, one of the top surf and skate lifestyle retailers in the region. Company brand ambassador Rohan Marley enjoyed the party along with other Big Island residents. Guests enjoyed live music and mingled throughout the shop’s newly designed interior. Rohan began as a seed of the company, working alongside the owner since start-up. An ambassador for life and love, the Jamaican-born entrepreneur strives to carry on his father’s mission through The House of Marley by maintaining the integrity and principles of the brand. By using Eco-friendly, earth-friendly and proper materials, The House of Marley is committed to positive change. The House of Marley and Oshima’s have collaborated because of their like-mindedness and the opportunity to launch a brand and support a local company. “I know that Oshima is a very respectable organization and respectable movement. I just want to give thanks to the people of Hawaii and Hilo, Big Island for letting us introduce what we’ve been working on for so long that resonates who we are,” said Rohan in a recent interview with Freesurf. “And thanks to the ambassadors Mason Ho and Makua Rothman- Hawaii is where the new earth begins.”


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Industry Notes

However, if you want to get into the biggest wave ever without getting your hair wet (weather permitting), go down to Honolulu and check out Hilton Alves’ latest masterpiece. The 14,080-squarefoot mural depicting a Pipeline bomb turned a desolate city wall into a vibrant beauty. This is just the first step in completing his 101 Perfect Wave Mural Project that he partnered with Hawyland Styles Gallery on.

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Aloha `Oe Kirk Passmore Kirk Passmore was born in Orem Utah, but grew up in Carlsbad, California. A devoted member of the Carlsbad High School Surf Team, the athlete also partook in pop warner football, little league baseball and basketball. Visiting the Islands since age 14, the love for Hawaii eventually stuck, bringing the ocean lover to the North Shore of Oahu. Between being part owner of Third Stone Surfboards and managing Banzai Sushi, the achiever always made time to get out when the waves were firing. Doing it for the pure love of surfing, the soul surfer was welcomed in the local lineup anywhere from Waimea Bay to Sunset Beach to Pipeline. The love affair for big surf also brought the maverick to places like Todos Santos, Puerto Escondido and Mavericks. Surfing huge outside Alligators, the big wave charger tragically drowned during an early season swell on the North Shore of Oahu. The local and big wave community will not forget the hardworking and humble man who touched the lives of many.


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Rock

In Memorial

Buttons Kaluhiokalani March 30, 1959 - November 2, 2013 Many know Montgomery Earnest Thomas Kaluhiokalani simply as “Buttons”, but few know that the Honolulu local was lovingly granted the moniker by his grandmother, who thought his tight curly hair looked like buttons. The lesser-known first name was given to Buttons by his mother, because of her love for the famed actor Montgomery Clift. Born on the North Shore and raised in Waikiki, Buttons had a longtime love for surfing. First memories were of walking to the beach, sitting in the sand and following closely behind Uncle Buddy as he walked into the water to surf his 10-footer board. After teaching himself how to swim and acquiring a paipo board, Buttons’ natural surf talents emerged. The athlete’s progressive nature stood out even as a kid, since doing 360’s, spinners, and going switchfoot was anything besides the norm. Buttons’ most radical period of surfing, according to the legend himself, was at the age of 21, doing the Pipe Masters and the Sunset World Cup, as well as winning the Sunkist Malibu Pro. Those were the days where the spontaneous surfer was experimenting with moves that were beyond their time, and Buttons claimed these days held some of the best surfing moments of his life. With the glory days behind, Buttons still found himself at Backdoor, charging like a little kid, though favorite spots remained Sunset and Backyards. The Hawaiian also loved the thrill of the drop and the rush at Waimea Bay. The surfing world will always remember Buttons’ influence in the 70’s. The fluidity redefined how to ride a wave. Comfortably cutting back, throwing buckets, and digging rails post barrel, all while still maintaining a level of grace that is difficult to achieve- even by today’s standards- were all a part of this man’s daily dose of surfing. Making the ocean a personal aquatic skate park, it is no surprise that Buttons had such a deep impact on the surfing world. The surfing pioneer found the most beautiful things in life to be his family, the ocean, and Hawaii. Living one day at a time and knowing how blessed he was with family, Buttons aimed to not take life for granted. At age 54, Buttons passed away after battling lung cancer. His name is a connotation for many things: surfer, innovator, ambassador, father, grandfather, husband, hero. Today this name and the aloha he shared will live on in the hearts of all those who had the pleasure of knowing him.


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Last Look


Big Island’s Keala Naihe sits at the Oakley house with this as his view, as he imagines himself in a massive tube. Here’s to the power of visualization. Backdoor, Pipeline. Opening day 2013. Photo: Tony Heff


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