Page 1

Seth Moniz. Photo: Tyler Rock

Volume 9 Number 12



In Hawai’i

The State of



photo: daniel russo Š2012 Vans, Inc.



Photo: Kenworthy


N I K E S U R F I NG . C O M


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Torrey Meister on a thick inside bowl at Sunset.. Torrey Meister. Photo: Tyler Rock

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Table of Contents

Features 20








Kicks Off Contest Season

The State of

New Classics

The Interview


Joey Johnston. Photo: Latronic

10 Free Parking

76 She Rips

16 Cover Story

84 Grom Report

18 Pulbisher’s Note

86 News & Events

74 Community

96 Last Look


Cover Story

There’s something about Seth when he surfs. Whether it’s big waves or small, it’s always there; the look of pure excitement and stoke! It’s something the entire Moniz Ohana seems to radiate. And this seemed the perfect opportunity to put one of the Moniz boys on our Freesurf cover for the first time. I see Seth surfing a lot. He’s always out, and it was no surprise to see him once again on this pristine November morning at perfectly clean mini backdoor. There weren’t a lot of barrels, but Seth seemed to find the hidden gems and can no doubt thread a tube among the best of his counterparts. This little tube happened so fast that I didn’t think too much of it. It wasn’t until reviewing the shots later that I realized the potential of this locked in image, capturing Seth’s unadulterated essence of Aloha in the form of stoke! -Tyler Rock

! a k a m i k i l mele ka

815 Front St. • Lahaina, HI 96761

151 Hana Hwy. Unit 1 • Paia, HI 96779



(Located between Kimo’s & Cheeseburger In Paradise)

(Paia Courtyard Market)

All we Need is love! Shop online at www.pakaloha.com

The energy surrounding Oahu’s northshore pinnacles in December. This issue brings us mid season with huge Aleutian storm swell and the very best wave riders on the planet have gathered to ride. A world championship rages at the Billabong Pipeline Masters and the season finish to the world championship tour settles all the chips. In between, before and after all the heat horns blow there’s the uncontested gladiator performances – as much of a spectacle at times as the championships events. Its everday life when your on

Whenever I think of Aloha, my mind always runs back to the famous Duke Kahanamoku quote that adorns the bronze plaque below his statue. “In Hawaii we greet friends, loved ones or strangers with ‘Aloha,’ which means with love. Aloha is the key word to the universal spirit of real hospitality, which makes Hawaii renowned as the world’s center of understanding and fellowship. Try meeting or leaving people with Aloha. You’ll be surprised by their reaction. I believe it, and it is my creed. Aloha to you.” Legend states that this quote was also printed on the back of Duke’s personal business card. In my eyes, no written words on Aloha could ever top this quote. Duke Paoa Kahanamoku was the Ambassador of Aloha. Duke was a man of few words, and he instinctively knew that actions spoke louder than words. For this issue of Freesurf we delve into the state of Aloha for 2012 and ask our friends for their thoughts on Aloha. As interesting as the article is, I can’t help but think that this month’s cover shot of Seth Moniz defines Aloha like no words can. Looking at Seth’s face as he threads through the eye of Backdoor peeler conveys the very essence of aloha and stoke. Seth Moniz knows just like Duke Kahanamoku did that surfing is the ultimate conduit of Aloha. Surfing is capable of bringing out the Aloha in any and every person. What are you waiting for? Go forth and surf all ye Freesurfers and Live Aloha!


Publisher’s Note

HIC Pro Kicks Off Contest Season Winter is officially here. The HIC Pro presented by Vans kicked off the start of Hawaii’s championship surf season and if this contest is any kind of barometer to gauge the rest of winter, it’s shaping up to be a good one. Event director Marty Thomas carefully selected the best four days for competition during the 12 day waiting period and Sunset Beach produced a mix of sizes and conditions from 3-12 feet. Since the HIC Pro acts as the final qualifying event, athletes clawed, scratched and battled for one of 6 spots to gain entry into the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. The 4-star rated ASP event has served as a major stepping stone for a variety of Hawaii’s biggest surf stars in the past. Previous champions include Bruce and Andy Irons, Fred Pattachia, Ian Walsh, the late Ronnie Burns, Pancho Sullivan, and last year’s champ Ezekiel Lau to name a few. Prevailing wisdom suggests that surfing is the domain of hyperkinetic young men. Tell that to 12x world champ, 40 year old Kelly Slater, and now Sunny Garcia for that matter. A full two decades after Sunny won the Xcel Pro at Sunset Beach back in 1992, the 42-year-old former world champion found himself competing in the final day of the HIC Pro. With the second most wins out at Sunset (only Michael Ho has more), every competitor still in the draw knew Sunny was a real threat to win. Fresh off a gold medal performance at the ISA World Masters Championships in Nicaragua this


News & Events

Pound for pound, Sunny Garcia holds his own among the elite at Sunset Beach. Garcia pushed into an early lead at this years HIC final and never lost it.


past summer, the 6-time Triple Crown Champion was looking lean and focused. Big gouges, great rail work, coupled with impeccable tube riding saw Sunny blitz through the competition. Sunset could very well be the trickiest wave on the planet, and wave knowledge is paramount. The first day of the HIC Pro proved to be a solid indicator that experience was going to play a huge factor throughout the contest. In the first heat of the event, our very own 47-year-young Mike Latronic threaded the first barrel of the event, won his heat and made the highlight reel. Another veteran that turned heads was Kahea Hart. The 40-year-old charger was in fine form throughout the event, surfing with power and determination. Combined with some savvy heat strategy, Kahea advanced all the way to the final day of competition. It wasn’t just the Hawaii veterans giving the youngsters a run for their money either. Former WCT competitor and number seven in the world Nathan Hedge was on fire, showing precise rail work and fully committed surfing on his backhand. However, the Hog just barely missed making the quarterfinals of the event, losing out to fellow Aussie Thomas Woods by .23 of a point.


News & Events

Granger Larsen blazed through the event with style and poise. With the long right hander suiting his surfing, Granger came in a close second to Sunny in the final. He will no doubt be a dominant force at Sunset in the future.


Gregg Nakamura was indeed the dark horse ripper of the contest. Dubbed “Double G�, the local surfer harvested great wave selection to make the final, turning some heads in the process.


News & Events


14/09/12 9:03 AM



News & Events

Posting some of the top scores of the event on a consistent basis, Kahea Hart put his athletic frame and knowledge to


work in super fun conditions at Sunset Beach.

Torrey Meister truly tore apart the peak all week with abandon and looked like a sure bet to make finals. This semifinal moment, however, did not turn out for the better.


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Outrigger Waikiki Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Walk Sheraton Princess Kaiulani


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Another relevant moment from this years HIC pro at Sunset. Ian Gentil progressed to the quarter finals with a growing reputation for solid clean yet radical lines.


News & Events


Standout performer for certain, nobody turned harder or faster than semi finalist Kekoa Bacalso.


News & Events

Matt Luttrell

News & Events

While the international crew was surfing well, Hawaii surfers dominated

a seed into the Round of 64. The youngsters better pay heed to their

Sunset’s massive lineup. Hawaii’s standouts throughout the event included

elders, especially since Sunny’s patented layback snap is looking

Kekoa “Bam” Bacalso, Torrey Meister, Fred Pattachia and Shane Beschen.


Kekoa Bacalso managed to notch up the biggest score of the event with a 9.93 in his quarterfinal heat, linking together three of the most critical and well timed turns of the entire event. Torrey Meister looked unstoppable in each of his heats, making late drops and navigating chandeliering barrels with ease. Torrey combined power, flow and variety throughout every heat and looked poised to snatch a victory. Unfortunately, Torrey was stopped just short of the finals by a surging Freddie Pattachia. No stranger to Sunset’s nuances and many faces, Freddie P won this event back in 2002 and in 2004. However, the darkhorse story of the event was Ala Moana Bowls local Gregg Nakamura. A civil engineer by trade, the 32-year-old cubicle jockey battled all the way to the finals, advancing through his heats with savvy surfing, smart positioning and finesse. The all Hawaii final pitted Sunny Garcia, Fred Pattachia, Granger Larsen and Gregg Nakamura. After a day of firing waves, the final was a bit wave starved. The lack of set waves played right to Garcia’s favor as he jumped out to an early lead in the heat by nabbing two good scores in the first half. Both waves had plenty of open face, and Sunny proceeded to tear the back out of each wave. With his caddy Billy Kemper yelling encouragement, the former world champion secured victory over an in-form Granger Larsen. On the podium, Sunny held his grandson and summed up his experience surfing in Hawaii, “I feel like if the waves are big and I feel like there are very few people that can compete with me if I get good waves.” Well stated, and with his victory, Sunny will now enjoy 32

HIC Pro Results FINAL: 1st - Sunny Garcia (HAW) - $15,000 - 14.83 (8.5, 6.33) 2nd - Granger Larsen (HAW) - $7,500 - 12.5 (7.17, 5.33) 3rd - Gregg Nakamura (HAW) - $5,000 -11.74 (6.57, 5.17) 4th - Fred Patacchia (HAW) - $3,500 - 7.33 (4.0, 3.33) SEMI-FINALS: H1: Gregg Nakamura; Fred Patacchia; Torrey Meister; Lincoln Taylor H2: Sunny Garcia; Granger Larsen; Kekoa Bacalso; Joshua Moniz QUARTER FINALS: H1: Torrey Meister; Gregg Nakamura; Kiron Jabour; Ian Gentil H2: Fred Patacchia; Lincoln Taylor; Keanu Asing; Alex Smith H3: Kekoa Bacalso; Joshua Moniz; Dion Atkinson (Aus); Nathan Carvalho H4: Granger Larson; Sunny Garcia; Shane Beschen; Thomas Woods


News & Events

Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau 2012 Invitees The most prestigious big wave surf event on the planet, the 28th annual Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau big wave invitational, has announced its list of 2012/13 Invitees and Alternates. Held only when the waves are 20 feet or bigger, the event’s holding period commences December 1st and extends through February 28th. 2012 marks the first year that local phenom John John Florence has been invited to surf in this iconic big wave contest. Invitees


Alex Gray

Danny Fuller

Bruce Irons

Kalani Chapman

Carlos Burle

Kahea Hart

Clyde Aikau

Michael Ho

Dave Wassel

Keone Downing

Garret McNamara

Brock Little

Grant Baker

David Standt

Greg Long

Danilo Couto

Ian Walsh

Ben Wilkinson

Jamie O’Brien

Jamie Mitchell

Jamie Sterling

Keoni Watson

Jeremy Flores

Kealii Mamal

John John Florence

Rusty Keaulana

Kala Alexander

Gabriel Villaran

Kelly Slater

Tau Hannenman

Kohl Christensen

Mark Matthews

Makua Rothman

Evan Valiere

Mark Healy

Diego Medina

Nathan Fletcher

Rusty Long

Noah Johnson

Aaron Gold

Pete Mel

Myles Padaca

Ramon Navarro

Chris Bertish

Reef McIntosh

Ken Collins

Ross Clarke-Jones

Andrew Marr

Shane Dorian

Anthony Tashnick

Sunny Garcia

Shawn Dollar

Takayuki Wakita

Ross Williams

Tom Carroll

Derek Dunfee

by Chris Latronic

The State of

Aloha. Perhaps the most commonly uttered word in Hawaii. Every person that enters the islands is first greeted with this word. Phonetically, Aloha is made up of a compound of Hawaiian words. ‘Alo’ meaning “presence” and ‘ha’ meaning “breath of life” or “essence of life.” Aloha essentially means “the presence of the breath or essence of life.” Affection, peace, compassion and mercy are all found in the meaning of this word. To “live aloha” is to live with love, honor and peace.



For me aloha is a personal commitment to do my best for myself and others in a way that is sincere, respectful and honest. -Robert Cazimero


Aloha seeped into pop culture centuries ago and has played a

endearing Hawaiian song that Queen Lili`uokalani penned, “Aloha `Oe.”

significant role in Hollywood, with its frequent usage in the 1968 and

Written by the Queen in 1878, it is the unofficial anthem of The Royal

2010 versions of the hit television drama Hawaii Five-0. Fast Times at

Hawaiian Band. The song ends every single concert that the Royal

Ridgemont High student surfer, Jeff Spicolli (Sean Penn), uses Aloha

Hawaiian Band plays, an ode to the essence behind Aloha.

with eccentric teacher Mr. Hand (Ray Walston). The Aloha Spirit is a major concept in Lilo and Stitch, a Disney series of movies and TV

While Aloha is perhaps the most elegant word in the Hawaiian language

shows, set in Hawai`i. The drama series Lost, shot in Hawai`i, has a

and its use is well documented in Hollywood, what does it mean to the

thank you note at the end of the credits saying “We thank the people

people of Hawaii? And equally as important, is Aloha alive and well? Do

of Hawai`i and their Aloha Spirit”. The word embodies a meaning that’s

the people of Hawaii take care to reflect and share its meaning? We

not only become popular, but also a worldwide moral conduct.

asked a few of our friends what Aloha means to them.

Arguably the most famous use of Aloha is found in the classic,

What is Aloha to you?

Amber Mozo

Ha’a Keaulana Photographer Aloha means to welcome, to give, and to love. I think Aloha is very alive in Hawaii! Some good examples of Aloha is “Making sure everyone is fed at a party” “Giving everyone a nice big smile” and “Giving a shaka to the car that let you go.”

Kainoa McGee Lifeguard Aloha is more of a lifestyle and an attitude rather than just a word or a saying. It’s a free giving of warmth, love and kindness with no expectations in return. A perfect example of ALOHA is when you just meet someone and you invite them to your home to meet your ohana and eat, drink and be merry. That’s Hawaiian style.

Lisa Anderson 4-time Women’s World Surf Champ Aloha means Love… Gerry Lopez taught me that and I don’t think there’s anyone better who can teach you that. Aloha is like the ocean. It’s like what the ocean gives you. You share it with everyone, the love for the ocean. Being fortunate to live a great lifestyle.


Randall Paulson When a true Hawaiian smiles at you...that’s aloha! And that’s how I want to love.

There is no bad Aloha. Aloha is the same sentiment everywhere. It means hello, goodbye, have a great day. Here in Huntington, there’s a

First person who showed me Aloha would have to be uncle Mike Ho, he

lot of Aloha Friday’s and Aloha hangovers.

is just a legend. Everything he taught me about the ocean people and all kinds of other good things!

Robert Cazimero Musician/The Brothers Cazimero

Yes Hawaii is still filled with Aloha, just look all around us it’s everywhere!!

What is Aloha? Such a hard question to answer as it can be as general as it is

Other names for Aloha like hello, goodbye, and many other ways I

subjective. For me Aloha is a personal commitment to do my best for


myself and others in a way that is sincere, respectful and honest. That said I work on Aloha every day of my life. Most times I triumph but

Makuakai Rothman

failure waits ever patiently not too far away.

Professional Surfer/Musician

Examples of Aloha?

Aloha is my life, my family, my people. Aloha is a word that can describe

It’s trite but the common things like a hug, a REAL hug. A hello, a

many things. Aloha is what I try to portray in whatever I do.

letter, throwing loose change to a young dancer at a local party, telling someone to be careful on the high waves. Saying and giving thanks.

For us who grew up in Hawaii and lived here our whole life...Aloha is more of a feeling to us than just a word. It’s what happens every day

Is Hawaii still filled with Aloha?

we go by. We say hi, goodbye, or how are you? A please, a thank you,

Pockets of this mystery remain but Hawai’i still filled with Aloha? Gotta

a handshake, a hug. It’s just being nice to people, showing somebody

dig deep...

that you care. Helping a fellow out that’s in a lesser situation then you. Anything that gives an uplifting, happy-smile on your face-feeling!

Keoni Burger Nozaki Professional Charger

First time I felt Aloha was probably from Eddie Aikau’s father, Pops Aikau. He used to take care of me when I was a baby. He helped my

Aloha means just having a good vibe and enjoying life and it means a lot of positive things!!!! 40

mom and could cook some good grinds!

If there was no Aloha, there would be no Hawaii.

Kala Alexander Professional Surfer/Actor Aloha is a way of life. Aloha is the spirit. Aloha is breath. It’s been kind of stomped out of us over the years so people don’t see it as much as they used to. When you treat Hawaiians with respect, you’ll see it.

Brian Amona Local Surfer Aloha is living Pono. You know what living ‘pono’ means? It’s very basic… Treat each other the way you want to be treated. Let someone go before you, give someone a wave… It’s the little things like that.

Pogi Tevaga Mr. Polynesia 2012 Aloha is the act of love, kindness, and respect toward others. There were a few people who showed me Aloha when I moved to Oahu from Maui. Mr. and Mrs. David Parker showed me so much Aloha, and Chris Brown who was one of the first guys I met and still am good friends with him . And for sure Tihati and Aunty Cha for their continued love and support. Hawaii will always be filled with Aloha no matter who comes and goes through these islands.

Flynn Novak Pro Surfer To me Aloha is an overall good vibe you can express outward, or feel coming from someone. Aloha is alive and very well, you just have to be open to it... You definitely cannot find Aloha everywhere, but when you do, it’s a beautiful and greatly appreciated thing! An example of Aloha in daily life could be any act of kindness or sharing in a positive way,,, From cooking dinner for your friends to giving someone a needed hug, or just doing your best to keep your community clean and care for our living space. Aloha deficient people generally don’t give a shit about anyone, not even themselves, usually wouldn’t think twice about stealing, littering, or anything that wouldn’t directly benefit them.

Kaoli Kahokuloa Hawaii Junior Surf Team Aloha means loving one another through our words and actions no matter what our differences may be. I believe that Aloha is not alive and well in some parts of the world

such as Afghanistan, but thank GOD that Aloha is alive and well in some parts of America, especially in Hawaii which carries the Aloha spirit to places that don’t have Aloha. Some examples in our daily life are greeting someone with a fat smile, hug, kiss on the cheek, or handshake. Some other examples of Aloha are sharing, exchanging kind words, helping one another in need, and most of all putting others first. Some examples of no Aloha that I’ve seen are sponsors making false promises, surfers purposefully dropping in on others, people gossiping about others, and most of all ignorant people picking on others who are different or less fortunate.

Randy Rarick Executive Director of Vans Triple Crown of Surfing I think the spirit of Aloha is represented with Hawaiian surfing. Surfing is Hawaii’s gift to the world of sport, and surfing personifies and exemplifies that. My teacher was Rabbit Kekai, and he pushed me into my first wave in Waikiki when I was 10. Rabbit was taught by Duke Kahanamoku, and I knew Duke when I was a young boy. I remember Duke sitting next to me giving me wisdom when I was 14 years old, telling me you should act with Aloha and use Aloha in presenting surfing to the world. And that was really his creed, that you show Aloha, you get Aloha. If you use Aloha in surfing, that’s the true spirit of what surfing is all about. I tell people instead of being macho and agro, would Duke have done that? No way. There’s no way. Duke shared it. He showed his Aloha and he got it back because of that. You get back what you put out. One of the things that the ancient Hawaiians really did is that they really shared their Aloha. I went to public schools and in seventh grade there were 3 haoles in my school, the rest of the guys were all local. I learned what you gotta do


to get along here, and it really taught me what a wonderful place this is, but it’s a very challenging place. But as I said, if you show Aloha, you get Aloha. If you put it out, you’ll get it back. It’s as simple as that. I’ve lived my whole life with that philosophy. It’s done me well and I like to think I’ve contributed a lot, particularly to surfing and even Hawaiian surfing. Even though I’m not Hawaiian on the outside, yet inside, Hawaiian at heart. And that’s what really counts.

Jason Shibata Pro Surfer/Ambassador of Aloha Aloha is more than just a word, it’s a way of life! Living with Aloha is treating others better, and showing them the Hawaiian way! Yes, Aloha is alive and well! I see it in the Keiki and the Kupuna! I wish Honolulu would enforce an Aloha rule with any employee working there, airline staff and especially the TSA agents. Their companies should reprimand them for not showing Aloha in our airports, cause I’m sure we’ve all experienced some bad treatment there.

ulele Inc.

Photos Man


No shortage of magical moments at Pipeline. Photo: Mike Latronic.

In every passing moment we carry and reflect style and attitude. It could be the way we walk or the way we talk… Or the way we fly… Photo: Bielmann

There’s an invisible line many north shore surfers cross when the swells rise to advisory levels… The Pipeline is the “gladiator’s zone.” Be you from Africa, Europe, Haleiwa, the US mainland, this journey through this dome is as thrilling as it is dangerous. Unknown surfer Photo: outbluffum.com

Don’t be deceived by the smooth and graceful style of Granger Larsen. He’s speeding with precision, progression and punch. He likes to mess stuff up… but he looks good doing it! Photo: Tyler Rock

Kaimana Henry flares brute force. Photo: Tyler Rock

Unlikely things happen at the most unlikely moments. John Florence plays the 8 foot air game at 2 foot backdoor. Photo: Mike Latronic

Always fast and clean. Joel Centeio. Photo: Tyler Rock

Flexibility testing. Roy Powers has a knack for sudden redirection and it usually scores big fun points. Photo: Tony Heff

Spectators gather and feast their eyes on what many surfers consider the greatest show on Earth. Kainoa McGee center stage. Photo: Tony Heff

Most of the new school R&D and shredding is being farmed and tested in beach break conditions and usually on sandbars. Right? Wrong! Tooled with cutting edge progressive skill and a bit of Brazilian bravado, Gabriel Medina negotiates a back flip over one foot of water at Off the Wall. Photo: Tyler Rock

Tanner Hendrickson is fired up, usually smiling and always ready to throw tail. Photo: Mike Latronic

Chris Owens reaps the rewards of a good alarm clock and a sick pit in the morning light. Photo:Eric Baeseman

Everyone has that moment amongst their childhood friends that more or less defines them as a human. If you happened to be the funny guy in your group then there’s most likely that favorite story that everyone recalls, which glorifies the lore. The serious guy always has the steady presence from an early age. The troubled outcast, the popular guy, the nerd, so on and so on, we all have our moment whether we know it or not. In my mind, Shane Dorian’s moment is pretty unforgettable. We might have been 16 or 17 years old, definitely still in school. The surf was huge. 20’ plus. Not a realm that we were familiar with yet. As we always did, we were tailing Brock Little and Todd Chesser around like two little nervous rug rats awaiting orders in our battle with Mother Nature. Looking out at the ocean, it seemed impossible to penetrate the “channel.” Paddling as hard as we could to reach the Green zone, our group got split up. While me and another friend got swept to the neighboring break, Shane, Todd and Brock pushed through. As I got punished all the way to shore, I clearly remember the fact that I was totally fine with not giving it another shot. The entire ocean seemed to be folding in half. About an hour later Shane came back to the house with a look of total defeat in his eyes. Later, Todd and Brock told me the story. As they were scrambling over the face of a huge 20’ set, just trying to get out of harms way, Shane decided it was a good idea to whip it mid way up the face on the first wave of the set. He free fell down the face eating crap at the bottom. From there he was held down for the remainder of that wave AND the wave after that. Nearly drowning, he somehow made it to the beach. When I saw the look of respect and surprise on the faces of Todd and Brock (our heroes), I knew Shane was a complete nut ball. There are 3 types of professional surfers. The charger. The tour guy. And the free surfer. Making it onto one of these lists is an accomplishment in itself. Making it on 2 of these lists is even more rare. Making it on all the 3 is the rarest of specimen. Shane combines the skills of a tour surfer, with the mindset of a big wave charger, and the foresight of a free surfer. This is the reason that Shane finds himself on a very short list as one of our sports’ greatest ever. A lot of guys will take off on anything that moves when its bombing but you won’t find yourself youtubing their section in performance waves to amp up for a sesh out front. Shane was, and still is, a tour caliber surfer that has a massive amount of brawn, maybe the most out of anyone. And he backs it up with crazy good technique. Lucky for us he still calls surfing his job. We get to witness all of his heroics on the internet and in the magazines. The sport is so lucky to have Shane at the helm of big waves. Humble and smart, Shane is a good family man. Which means that he will be pursuing these missions with the precision of a Navy Seal attack. Already his invention of the air bladder wetsuit is an example in his combined effort to do crazy shit but not die in the process. You won’t find Shane tooting his own horn in a desperate cry for attention, which is why it makes it so much more fashionable for the rest of us mere mortals to raise the “crazy flag” for him.

Chris Straley / A-Frame


by Ross Williams

Interview: Shane Dorian by Tyler Rock

short I didn’t want to but I ended up missing the first paddle session and those guys got some amazing waves. I was so excited to see the images. It really reinforced my theory that you could paddle into really big waves there. Guys have been paddling in out there for a while.

When did you get into big waves?

There was a huge jump on that day. Ian Walsh caught a couple of really big waves. Sion got a big wave that day. I remember getting so fired up

I’ve really been into big waves since I was 16 years old. I hung out with

when I saw that. And I was depressed that I missed it. As luck would

Brock Little and Todd Chesser a lot when I was a kid. When I was 16 I

have it, there was another swell really quickly after that. I think it was in

actually moved in with Brock and Todd. They really took me under their

March, pretty late in the winter. And I went over there for the swell not

wing and whenever the waves got big on the North Shore I was either

expecting a whole lot and it ended up being really good. And that was

surfing Waimea or the outer reefs. So ever since then I was really into

the first session I was there.

big waves. Things kind of got put on a back burner for a while. I did the tour. And I was traveling non-stop for about 10 or 12 years. So fitting in

When did you first surf Jaws?

big wave missions, chasing big swells around was pretty tough. I was out of the country most of the time. When I stopped doing the tour

I first surfed Jaws when I was 24, 25. When I first surfed Jaws it was

was when I was able to refocus and surf big waves a lot again. And

a total tow-in thing. I started going over to Jaws and towing with Noah

it’s been something that I have been focusing on more these last few

Johnson and then towing with Ian Walsh, until we started paddling it. I

years. Until I was 15 I hadn’t surfed any big waves at all. I grew up here

would go over for really big swells and just tow it.

in Kona on the Big Island and the waves really never do get very big here. So I started going to Oahu a bit. When I was 15, I actually moved

Why is Jaws such a good paddling wave?

over to Oahu and ended up staying with close friends and my shaper at the time, Cino Magallanes, and his son Jason was a close friend. So

The wave at Jaws, Peahi, whatever you want to call it, is in my opinion

I started going to Waialua High School, and from that point on I met

the best big wave paddle wave in the world. Just the shape of it. How

Todd Chesser and Brock Little and a lot of the guys over there that

it comes in out of deep water and bends up into a peak. It has this

were charging at a real young age. It was just a natural progression

really intense take off, and it looms, gets really huge, kind of like a

from there.

Sunset Beach the way it approaches the reef. As soon as it hits the reef it does this crazy thing. When the swell hits the reef it really bottoms

When did you begin thinking about paddling Jaws?

out and makes the waves stand up really tall. So it’s pretty technical. It’s not just a big drop. You don’t just get to your feet and ride out. There

Its kind of weird how it all happened. It didn’t seem like a planned

really is a lot to it. You get to your feet and the ride just begins. A lot of

thing. A few years ago I had talked to Ian Walsh about it. I told him

times there’s a giant barrel and you really have to make it down the line

I really wanted to try and paddle it on a big day. There were guys

quickly. You see some incredible rides out there.

that had been paddling it on smaller swells. The kind of swells guys really wouldn’t tow surf it. But I thought it was worth a shot to try

How good was that session?

and paddle it when it was big. I actually missed the first time they ever paddled it. It was the same winter we had talked about it, but I

Just in general I think everybody out there had multiple opportunities

had another trip scheduled. So I went on the trip and the waves got

to get great waves. There were quite a few guys out. Almost all the

pretty big, and it was Ian, Greg Long and Sion and Healy. Long story

waves that came in had great shape. It’s not like you had to wait for the

Shane Dorian bags the wave of the day. Photo: Heff

second wave for it to clean up. Every wave that came in was either

and not just straighten out and get pummeled. It’s a lot of fun. It_s fun

paddled for or ridden, so that was really unique about the swell and it

to work with your shaper and do some different designs. See what

just kind of enabled all of us to catch a lot of good waves. I had a lot

works in terms of fins and rocker. It_s a lot of fun.

of good waves. I got pretty lucky. I was pretty picky but my equipment was working well and I was feeling healthy and strong. I’ve been

What standout rides did you see?

preparing for the winter for a while now and it was a good opportunity for me to put things in motion and see how everything was working.

I saw some great rides from the channel. I was taking it easy. I’d catch

I had a couple of tube rides which is unusual when the waves are that

a wave and paddle back out and kind of watch from the channel for

big. The real standout wave for me that first day, and for the swell,

a bit. Albee Layer I would say was a real standout. I’ve been pretty

was that big last one I got. It was such a cool wave because I had

impressed with Albee’s whole approach out there. He’s got really good

been surfing at that point for three hours and I was getting a little

technical ability and he charges really hard. But he’s not overboard

fatigued and I was thinking I should probably go in and I was sitting

about his charging. Doesn’t look like he’s trying to prove anything. He

out the back and I kind of looked around and there was no one really

has a plan. He goes out there and he has the kind of wave he’s looking

left in the lineup. I think everyone else had the exact same thought as

for and everything. It was really fun to watch Albee out there. He had

me that it’s kind of getting late. We are all paddling in on the rocks. I

a lot of good ones. Also, Ian Walsh is always a standout. Greg Long

wanted to get up the rocks before it got

caught a couple of huge ones. Got that insane

dark. Next thing you know the lineup

barrel. He is such a good surfer in big waves.

is pretty much empty the only guy in

Mark Healy. Makua Rothman I thought was one

the water was Mark Healy and I think

of the best surfers of the swell. There’s just so

Chuck Patterson was on the left. And

many good guys nowadays it’s just so hard to

Mark Healy was out to sea. So I’m in

name them all.

the lineup by myself and I’m thinking I just need to get a little scrap one in.

Was it a monumental session?

And next thing you know that big set came. It was probably the biggest set

It’s easy for me to say it was a monumental

of the day. And I was thinking I’ll just

session, and it was probably the best session I’ve

paddle out and avoid the set and catch

ever been out in for paddle waves. The amount of

a little one in. I paddled way out and I

amazing rides I saw. The amount of good waves

just ended up being right in the perfect

I got personally. The conditions. The size. It was

spot. I didn’t really feel like catching a

all there. It’s funny because the bar was so low

big wave at that point, I’d had a great

before this we’ve just started paddling Jaws

session. I was fine. I didn’t need to

and it’s only just begun. I think there’s a lot left

prove anything to myself. That wave came right to me, and I just

in terms of performance. I think there’s a lot left in size. I think in the

thought I’ll turn around and just have a look, just have a sniff and see if

next five years we’ll be seeing some incredible rides that will hopefully

I’m in the right spot. Next thing you know I start gaining momentum.

completely eclipse what we’ve just done this far. That’s the hope. Our

It felt like the wave, it felt like I was meant to ride that wave. This is

equipment is getting there quickly. I think guys are more prepared to

the one. It was just an insane ride. Got to my feet and let me in. It

get a little bit more aggressive out there and have better technique. It’s

was real technical, I had to clear a big boil that was coming up the

exciting for me to kind of sit back and watch it as well.

face. It was pretty intense, and the wave was a really big one too. And then it just barreled the whole reef. I wasn’t deep or anything but I

Tell us about your last wave of the swell.

was just in the vortex of the thing. It was loud and spit was flying all over the place. It was exciting. It was definitely probably the pinnacle

So my last wave was pretty intense. It was a big one. It was the

of my surfing career. Of all the thousands of waves I caught that one

second wave of the set. I knew it was gonna be a smooth one from the

stands out, there’s no doubt about it.

get go, and I was hoping for a big barrel. That wave was sucking off the reef right from the start so I knew it was going to be a big barrel and I

Tell us about how your equipment is evolving?

knew I was going to be pretty deep. I didn’t know I was going to be as deep as I was. The whole time I was on the gas trying to go as fast as


Things are really happening fast at Jaws. Before that I was surfing

I possibly could. From the time I got to my feet I knew the thing was

Mavericks, and Waimea, and a couple outer reef waves. For Jaws the

gonna run. So I was trying to make up as much ground as I possibly

wave is a totally different animal. Its a different kind of wave so you

could but there is only so much you can do on a 10’6. It was insane

need a different kind of board. My equipment, and everyone else’s

though. It was really memorable ride. I was positioned pretty well in

equipment, I believe is really evolving quickly. Now I am riding a 10’6

the barrel and I was going pretty fast. I got a really good vision before I

quad out there. You need a lot of board to be able to paddle quickly

got pounded. And I got really really pounded. Suplexed me right on the

and you need it to perform really well. There’s a lot of little technical

reef. I got a pretty good bruise on my butt still (about a week later now).

adjustments you need to do on that wave in order to ride it effectively

But it was worth it. It was a really bad beating but it was a great ride,

an amazing wave and a great two days of epic surf.

Shane’s board design with John Carper John Carper has a unique

What does a wipeout at Jaws feel like?

perspective on the evolution of It’s pretty horrific when you get a really bad wipeout at Jaws. A lot

Shane Dorian’s surfing career.

of big waves break hard, like Waimea will break super hard and has

JC has been shaping Shane

a really intense point of impact. A lot of power and intensity right

Dorian’s surfboards for over

there. But Jaws comes in like a peak. The left and the right are kind of

two decades, and over the

bending at each other and it creates this crazy apex. And all the power

course of their relationship

from both sides coming down and essentially creating twice as much

has played a vital role in Shane

force and intensity. When you fall it sucks you into that vortex. I don’t

becoming the best big wave

know how to explain it better than that. It just rag dolls the hell out of

surfer in the world. As Shane has pushed big wave paddle

you. It just drains you. The whole time your just trying to fight it and it’s trying to pull you down. Trying to pull you in, spin you around. It’s just

performance barriers, JC has continually refined the charger’s

a matter of trying to keep a level head and keeping calm and trying to

big wave equipment. From start to finish, John builds Shane-O’s

conserve energy and conserve breath.

guns by hand. That’s right, JC just doesn’t shape the blank, he paints and glasses these guns all himself. “Most shapers think

Tell us about your safety equipment for the session?

that what they shape is the end product, and all it is is a matrix for the glass to go over. They don’t understand the variation of

There is no doubt about it that the safety equipment is starting to

thickness really changes the shape,” says John. Another thing

come into play. The V1 Inflable wetsuit that we designed, its been

people might not realize is that these big wave guns are glassed

embraced by the big wave community. This time there were probably

twice, making the board weigh 25 pounds.

like 35 guys paddling Jaws, and probably 30 guys had the suit on. Which is so surreal for me to paddle out there and look around and

Shane and JC’s big wave surfboard project is a collaboration that

see this suit on almost every single guy. And out of the 5 that didn’t

began in 2001 and 2002 with the design of the original retro

have it 3 wanted it, and are on the list for the next round of suits we

rocket. Made for thick slabs, this red 6’3 JC is a short and wide

ordered. So it’s strange for me but it’s exciting as well. It is definitely,

board with a pulled in swallow tail. Surfed primarily at The Box,

psychologically, helping to push the bar higher, a bit quicker. I’m not

Backdoor and Off the Wall, it was designed to be ridden in place

gonna deny that feeling safer gives you more confidence, there is no

of a 7’6. With a beak nose (turned down nose), the nose gives

doubt about that, that’s human nature. But the bottom line is, I think

a lower entry and extra paddling power. Since the nose has a

we are safer out there with it. Safety for me is always first. I want to

reverse foil, if it goes underwater it naturally seeks the surface,

come home at night. My life is very important to me. And my kids. And

which is critical when surfing big waves. John explains this is

my family. Its neat to see everybody out there with them.

now called “wave piercing technology.”

Where will big wave surfing go from here?

Over the years, JC and Dorian have continued to make bigger boards using the same design features of the retro rocket.

On a big day like that, normally guys are just trying get a big one and

This design evolution has ultimately led to the 10’6 guns that

make the drop. But you’d see people paddling like it was Backdoor.

Shane-O now surfs out at Jaws that have considerably less

They’d be eyeing this fanging lip, and stand up instantly in tube stance,

nose rocker than most traditional rhino chasers. Even though

on a 10’6, on like a 25 foot wave. I think we’re gonna see a lot more

the boards are 3 3/4 thick, the surfboards are still extremely

of that. Just makes it really dangerous though. When conditions are

maneuverable, and have a nice carving rail that

like that, paddling in a 10’6 and getting ready to pack the barrel, makes

allows Dorian to set the rail and drive through

it really dangerous and really technical. But we’re seeing a lot of guys

the barrel. With all the subtle details that go

elevate their game and we’re seeing a lot of good guys come into the

into these craft, JC’s quad fin guns could very

picture that are a lot younger. They have a lot more time. That youthful

well be the most high performance surfboards

exuberance, and maybe not so wise yet. It’s really fun to watch those

ever made.

guys out there on full on attack mode at 18 or 19. That’s exciting for me to watch.

Shane’s board specs Big wave pintail gun Length: 10’6” Thick: 3.75” Width: 21” Weight: 25 lbs. Quad fin, glassed twice.

Photos: Rebecca Villegas


Perpetuating Kohanaiki, Preserving the Land By Sue Li and Lauren Shanahan

friendly surf contest, where every child who participated received a handmade goody bag with prizes donated by

Malama Pono. Take care of my ocean. Be nice. These are just a few of the hand

local businesses and other corporations. “Sportsmanship

painted children’s signs that adorn the entrance of Kohanaiki, more commonly

outweighs performance,” Villegas explains. “Kids are really

known as Pinetrees, on the Big Island. They serve as a reminder to all who surf,

encouraged to focus on participation instead of just focusing

camp, snorkel, and dive here that the land and water are sacred and shared by

on the next heat of competition.” Older kids are also

all. The nonprofit organization Kohanaiki Ohana was founded with the intention

encouraged to stay involved by mentoring their younger peers

to keep Hawaiian traditions alive, keep the value of aloha strong, and create

and helping organize raffles and prizes.

individual advocates for the land and sea. Above all, Keiki Surf for the Earth emphasizes the importance Big Island’s kapuna (elders) and keiki (kids) help inspire and guide Kohanaiki

of caring for the beach. “Only with responsibility comes the

Ohana. Community events, conservation activities, youth projects, and cultural

privilege of activities at the beach and the surf contest,” says

education all help keep the program alive and encourage growth. In 1994,

Villegas. A stewardess of the beach community, this local

Kohanaiki Ohana developed a vision statement that aimed to keep Kona’s coast

leader feels it part of her kuleana to perpetuate the tradition

(specifically Pinetrees beach) open and available to the public. “We envision

of preserving the land. Villegas also hopes to maintain the

a coastline where our community can continue to gather in an area open for

intention, integrity, and purpose of Keiki Surf for the Earth for

fishing, surfing, camping and other recreational and cultural activities”, reads the

future generations. She looks forward to seeing Kohanaiki

statement. Close to attaining their goals, Kohanaiki Ohana continues to focus

continue to serve as a gathering place for her grandchildren,

energy on the completion of a park, and also toward a very promising group; the

their children, and the rest of Kona’s community. For more

keiki of Hawaii.

information or to get involved, please visit www.kohanaiki.org.

Rebecca Villegas, who works with members of Kohanaiki Ohana to organize Keiki it was the kids who rallied their parents for a surf contest at their home break, where they could feel safe and supported. “In 2013, we will celebrate the 18th Annual Keiki Surf & Beach Clean Up. With the near completion of a county park at Kohanaiki, and the challenges associated with so much change, it’s more vital than ever that we remain vigilant. Our goals remain the education, inclusion, and support of our keiki and their ohana. It’s vital to the success of the park that future generations continue to acknowledge their kuleana (responsibility) to malama (take care, preserve, protect) this place.” This past year, families participated in a beach cleanup, arts and crafts, and environmental and cultural trivia. Kids under the age of 14 also competed in a


Rebecca Villegas

Surf for the Earth events, recalls the driving force behind the event’s inception;

Maluhia and Mainei Kinimaka By Jericho Rell

Kauai has surfing legends that are mythic. These stories are large in character and born from the sea. Titus Kinimaka is a man prominently entrenched as a legend of surfing. Titus’s daughters, Maluhia (age fourteen) and Mainei (age sixteen) have been born to these waters and have been competing since they were ten and fourteen. His wife Robin sat down with me and we talked about what it is like to raise girls on Kauai and how important it is to her for them to get an education. With this combination it is no surprise these girls are strong and wise beyond their years. When the Kinimaka girls came in through the door, I was at first struck by their striking beauty, but during the course of our interview I was blown away by their open honesty. With smiles and a lot of laughter and often finishing each other’s sentences, they told me a little bit about what it is like coming into being young women in the competitive surfing world.

Bryce Johnson

She Rips


She Rips

How has it been traveling around the world, has it changed your perspective on Kauai? Mainei: For sure we’ve been really lucky, we’ve been to France, Spain and surf great spots. It feels really good to come back to Kauai because it’s small and our family is everywhere. Maluhia: Yeah sometimes people get the “Kauai Syndrome” where they get stuck in their own little world. But when you get to travel and you come back, you just see things so different. There’s no place like home. How long have you been sponsored by Roxy? Mainei: Since I was 13 and Mahulia was 11. They are the best they make such great stuff and they are so supportive too. What kind of boards do you ride? Pang Boards and Town and Country Boards. Lately our dad has been shaping our boards in the yard. We just keep trying things we like about each board and then try another one and improve it. Who are your surfing mentors, besides your parents? Anyone in women’s surfing that has really inspired you? Mainei: Lisa Anderson for sure would be one, and Carissa Moore, Malia Manuel, Bethany for her courage that she has kept persevering no matter what. How is it balancing out school with competing? Mainei: I am so tired, it’s so hard balancing it out, but it’s so worth it. I go to school, surf, and then study.

Maluhia: She (Mainei) has AP classes and I look at the stuff I am going to have to do that I am going to have to take and I’m like, great, I am going to have to do that too. Mainei: It’s good not to have all your eggs in one basket so if something doesn’t work out you have school. You are well known up-and-coming surfers. And having Titus as a father who is also well known, how has that made your experience different? Maluhia: Well we try not to hide behind our dad. We try to make our own name. But it’s really cool to have the ultimate waterman as your dad. You know I can just say “dad my fin broke” and he can fix it. Does he ever take you ever tow out with him? Mainei: One thing that he does want us to do is get to know how to use skis and all that, and it’s something really important to him. When there are big swells he’ll take out the Jet Ski, put Maluhia in the driver’s seat and I’ll tow behind. Maluhia: Towing is pretty fun. It’s invigorating to drop in. Mainei: It’s almost easier because you are already standing up. You just have to commit. Maluhia: The only time I’ve been really scared, I think it was the first time… I think I was maybe like ten. I caught a small one and I fell and a big set came in. What has been the most exciting competition you have competed in this year? Mahulia: We did a Junior Pro at Waikiki. I got second and Mainei got third. We did all the NSSA’s and we did nationals.



She Rips

She Rips

Kai Ku Hale

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What would you like to say about women’s surfing as a whole right now?

Phone: (808) 636-2244 www.kaikuhale.com

Mainei: Women’s surfing…well I know the thing right now is for all the girls to wear tiny bikini’s but it gets a little intimidating sometimes

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where you feel pressured by others.


just rips and everyone knows it.

Maluhia: I mean look at Carissa. She doesn’t wear small bikinis, she

Right you want to be known for your surfing not your bikini… Mainei: I think it distracts from the point of surfing, you surf to have fun and be in the water. It’s not for showing off yourself. What would you like to see for the future of Kauai? Manei: I would like to keep the island like it is. It’s kind of sad to think


about when we are older, is our kids going to be able to see what we see now? Are we going to be able to go surf and see these peeling rights at the bowl and have at the most 40 people out? I don’t want it to be crowded. Maluhia: Right. It is such a pristine place. Mainei: I would like to keep the island like it is. There’s nowhere in the world like this.



Bruce Irons


• 230 global surf location tide charts pre-programmed • Custom, high-res display • One-piece silicone band • Patented locking looper

Grom Report Heff

Barron Mamiya Sponsors: Hurley, Smith Optics, Channel Island surfboards, North Shore Surf Shop, Darkride & Surfin’ Tacos Favorite band: Dubstep Favorite Movie: Dear Suburbia Post sesh grinds: Surfin’ Tacos Best result: Winning USA Championships under 12 division.

If there is any one particular grom to lookout for this winter, our sources tell us it’s Barron Mamiya. Born and raised on the north

Sitting in the middle of an expert crowd of pros and pipe specialists, while

shore of Oahu, Barron has been blessed to grow up surfing the

being the size of a hobbit is far from an easy feat. However, Barron Mamiya

waves of the seven mile miracle. V-Land, Sunset, and Pipeline have

has managed to pull this off in great style, and without abnormally hairy

helped push Barron’s surfing in a very quick amount of time.

feet. In all seriousness, I have never seen a grom surf Pipe this well since... you know, that kid with two first names. A bright future is ahead for this

In late October, I was privileged to witness Mamiya’s immense

young ripper. And at the very least some more epic barrels. Just don’t

potential out at hollow Backdoor. Barron’s prowess on a surfboard

forget to do your homework Barron, and be sure to thank uncle Duane for

is evident; from navigating through the crowded lineup, getting

not calling you off that wave. -Chris Latronic

into position, and putting on the grom blinders on as he deftly the small grom pull into a heaving Backdoor pit, my first thought was “instant wipe out in a glorious closeout.” But Barron’s wave shattered that misconceived notion as he packed a legit Backdoor keg. Duane DeSoto, the 2010 ASP World Longboard Champion was sitting inside of Barron on that wave. Duane later commented to me, “I was gonna go, but then I saw Barron... and he wasn’t stopping for no one.” As Duane can attest, being a grom is tough. And being a grom on the north shore, even tougher. And ask any grom about surfing pumping Pipeline, it doesn’t get any tougher than that.



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News & Events

North Shore Menehune Surf Championships Surf season officially kicked off this past October 20, 21, 27, & 28 at Haleiwa Beach Park with the 36th Annual North Shore Menehune Surf Championships. This family friendly surf contest draws the brightest future surf stars from all over Hawaiian Islands, and this year’s event was no exception. The menehune were surfing better than ever, and the aloha and good times permeated over both weekends. With so many past competitors having made the upper ranks of pro surfing, the North Shore Menehune Surf Championships acts as the first step for the majority of Hawaii’s pro surfers. The unequivocal highlight of the event was again the Kokua division, where beginning surfers paddled out with the assistance of their parents. Be sure to check out the website for all results @ www.northshoremenehunecontest.com and photos. Freesurf can’t wait for the 37th



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Western Australia Scores

The Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) has just announced that the Drug Aware Margaret River Pro in Western Australia will be a fully sanctioned World Championship Tour (WCT) event for both the men and women starting in 2014. Having been a long standing Prime event in the WQS, many of the top WCT surfers already surf the event. The most excited professional surfer has to be Yallingup local Taj Burrow, who will finally get to compete in a WCT event at home. In a coup for women’s professional surfing, the women’s event will become a WCT event starting in 2013. Freesurf is stoked to see another great wave added to tour!

Taj Wins O’Neill Coldwater Classic

Rowland / ASP

Model: Jasmine Photographer: Susan Knight

News & Events

O’Neill’s Coldwater Water Classic, the longest running surf contest in Northern California, has just played host to the world’s 34 best surfers. 2012 marked the first time this event was part of the WCT Dream Tour. Normally a WQS event, the Coldwater Classic is an iconic surf competition held at Santa Cruz’s Steamer Lane. An extremely tricky wave, the event saw a host of top seeds knocked out early in the draw. John John Florence was one such casualty, falling in the 2nd round to eventual finalist Matt “Wilko” Wilkinson. John John’s early loss sees the rookie bumped out of the 2012 world title race. Meanwhile, Taj Burrow won his second event of the year, barely pipping fellow Aussie Matt Wilkinson in a hard fought final. Congrats Taj!

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News & Events

The 2nd Annual Steep and Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge Begins Saturday, November 10 and closes on February 10. Any surfer who registers has a chance to win. And any photographer, regardless of magazine, brand or media affiliation, is eligible to win. All entries must occur during free surf sessions — no waves ridden during a heat will be considered. Images will be judged by a panel of Sion’s peers, Pipeline specialists and photography experts. The winning surfer and photographer will receive $2500 each from Vans, as well as a custom hardwood framed copy of the winning image. Vans will also give a matching $5,000 donation to the Sion Milosky Memorial Fund. For more information, go to Livelikesion.com.

After just two years, Surfline’s Wave of the Winter continues to push North Shore performances into new realms...with no signs of slowing down. Nike returns again as the presenting sponsor, offering $25-large to the winning surfer and five-Gs to the accompanying filmer. And this year, Clif Bar will plunk down an increased $20,000 for the Overall Performance Award-- $10,000 to the surfer with an additional $10,000 donation made in his or her name to a non-profit that benefits the local community and/or environment. Add it up and that’s a total purse of $50,000. Wave of the Winter runs November 1st through February. On March 1st, an esteemed panel of judges led by Gerry Lopez will select the ultimate winning wave/surfer as well as the season’s Overall Performance Award.

Waimea Valley is a wonderful venue for Special Events: Weddings, Receptions, Birthday Parties, Workshops and Seminars. Please call for Event Planning, Facility Rentals and Catering Information. 59-864 Kamehameha Highway Hale`iwa, Hawai`i 96712 (808) 638-7766 www.waimeavalley.net

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Kalani David Signs with Xcel Surf prodigy and ISA World Games gold medal winner Kalani David has just signed with Hawaii’s very own Xcel. Hawaii’s biggest wetsuit manufacturer, Xcel was founded at Sunset Beach in 1982. Kalani David and his progressive, high flying act will be joining big wave hellions Albee Layer and Greg Long on

The 7th Annual Surf Art Show

Xcel’s surf team. Congratulations Kalani!



III Stone Photo Contest In celebration of the reopening of their Factory Outllet in the Waialua Sugar Mill, the guys at Third Stone are holding a photo contest. The winner will take home $500 for submitting what is deemed the best photograph with “Third Stone” visible. This is not exclusive to surf photos. ANY kind of photo can win! So long as Third Stone is visible. The photo must be taken on the North Shore between September 1, 2012 and February 28, 2013. Whether you are surfing, skating or at a BBQ - we want to see it. Submit photos to thirdstonesurfboards@gmail.com or to the Third Stone Facebook page.

Surf with a smile

Dr. John

Jones Dentistry

808 955 0058 1441 Kapiolani boulevard suite 907, honolulu, hawaii 96814

(8 0 8 ) 3 4 9 - 2 2 5 9

Movie Review

Chasing Mavericks Jay Moriarty is a name that resonates with many Santa Cruz locals and surfers worldwide. Whether through a personal relationship, inspired way of life, or the familiar “Live like Jay” and “Never Forget Jay Moriarty” bumper stickers that decorate stop signs and metal railings along East Cliff, this big wave surfer made an impression at an early age. It’s no

wonder why directors Curtis Hanson and Michael Apted, in conjunction with Fox Pictures and Walden Media, released “Chasing Mavericks” on October 20th of this year- just in time for the Cold Water Classic. (A newly added stop on the ASP World Tour event list). The film is not only a tribute to Moriarty’s life, but also to big wave surfing, the small town of Santa Cruz, and the essence of accomplishment. And of course, what Jay left behind; a message to live each day wholeheartedly. Albeit the movie had overt tones of Hollywood corn and “coming-of-age” plot tactics, the sentiment behind the film is what makes watching it worthwhile. Based on a true story, the audience is introduced to countless names and places that have helped shaped Santa Cruz’s reputation. “Chasing Mavericks” traces Moriarty’s life from his first encounter with Half Moon Bay’s freak wave to his career changing wipeout on an El Nino Mavericks swell at the age of 16. Within the plot are non-original themes that flesh out the story beyond just its surf scenes, and critics have been quite harsh on these reviews. So let’s just recount the good stuff. The cinematography of the film depicts the notorious surf town and its neighboring mammoth wave as it was in the 80’s and 90’s. Moriarty’s experiences as a teenager lend cameos to Pleasure Pizza, The Boardwalk, Pearson-Arrow Surfboard Factory, and other familiar Santa Cruz scenery. The climax of the movie (and quite possibly its redeeming factor) is when the Mavericks crew, (Peter Mel, Greg Long, and Zach Wormhoudt) along with Jonny Weston (who plays Jay) paddle out and reenact the day that El Nino brought the swell of 1994. The intense imagery of boats, jet skis, and surfers climbing monstrous wave faces is by far the best, heavy water scenery of the movie. While you probably won’t feel the same effects of this scene on your home TV as you would on the theatre’s big screen, we recommend waiting to rent the movie. Entertaining, yet only quasiimpactful, I will admit that this movie accomplishes a poignancy that can only come from the true stories of a unique individual. -Lauren Shanahan

Last Look

Last Lo

Mason Ho styles through the tube like no other. Photo: outbluffum.com


Profile for Freesurf Magazine

Freesurf December 2012  

Freesurf Magazine V(N12

Freesurf December 2012  

Freesurf Magazine V(N12

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