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BOMBUCHA + 2013 Board Buyers Guide Volume 10 Number 10

+ Portfolio | Brent Bielmann + Sp o t l i g h t | D u s t y P ay n e

FREE In Hawai’i

Billy Kemper Photo: Brent Bielmann


O f f i c i a l Q u a l i f i e r o f T h e Va n s T r i p l e C r o w n o f S u r f i n g

W a t c h I t L i v e a t w w w . Va n s . c o m / H I C P r o a n d O c e a n i c S U R F C h a n n e l 2 5 0 & 1 2 5 0 H D


Free Parking


The unmistakable face of Pipeline is always a sight for sore eyes. With her inevitable return comes the influx of thousands of spectators and surf enthusiasts to pay homage to the worlds greatest wave. Photo: Brian Bielmann


Table of Contents

66-437 Kamehameha Hwy • next to post office • behind HE>i • 808-389-3709

08

Free Parking

12

Editor’s Note

16

Cover Story

18

News & Events

28

Shoots

30

Dusty Payne

36

Brent Bielmann

52

Aperture

68

Board Buyers Guide

92

Community

94

She Rips

98

Grom Report

100

Environment

102

Culture

104

Industry Notes

112

Last Look


Model: Ocean Hay Photo:Alicia Franco / Little Gypsie


Heff

Editor’s Note

They’re Here... The north shore surf is finally here and right on schedule. September and October always marked the incoming of the first NW swells and after a mediocre summer frothing, everyone was ready for a substantial harvest from up north. It’s time to get off the couch, turn off the contest replays on channel 250, grab your favorite surfboard, hit the ocean, lasso every great wave you see, and fine-tune your surfing for some personal enrichment.

Surfboard innovation is a cutting edge science that is still relatively young but insanely intricate. And with humans as the experimental lab rats, there is no time for bunk craftsmanship. A few wrong measurements here and there can totally mess with a surfer’s flow and competitive confidence. Finding the perfect surfboard is a lifelong journey but well worth getting right.

Cause let’s face it, when you feel like your surfing better, life IS better. This doesn’t mean you gotta be a rippa shredding. You know what I’m talking about. It’s about that feeling you get after you stand up a little bit longer, pull off a turn a little more contorted, or getting the longest barrel ever (even if its counted in milliseconds). Your board is the connection to the wave and we all want that connection to be as strong and fluid as possible.

Especially if you’re trying to get shots from our featured professional water photog extraordinaire, Brent Bielmann. He is nephew of surf photog legend Brian Bielmann and is really making his own mark in the surf world. We also check in with our famed Maui Boy Dusty Payne and see how a pro surfer battles through overcoming injuries on the world tour. To top that off, we look at a potential big injury to our oceans by speculating the truth about the radioactivity from Fukushima. And we also take a stroll into Kaka’ako where things are looking a lot brighter nowadays.

To help you on your way, we present the 2nd annual Freesurf Magazine board buyers guide BOMBUCHA issue, which gives you an up-to-date catalog of all the newest rides and accessories for your wave shredding pleasure. There are so many different shapers and board variations nowadays it’s hard to stay current. No matter what your flavor, there is no feeling better than holding a finished custom made surfboard with your name on it.

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So check out some boards and get ready, cause winter is here... Don’t miss out! An always gracious mahalo to all of you for picking up and enjoying this Freesurf Magazine. Aloha! - Chris Latronic Editor At Large


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Bielmann

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Editorial Publisher: Mike Latronic Managing Editor: Lauren Rolland Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Photo Editor : Tony Heff Art Director : John Weaver Staff Photographers : Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Mike Latronic, Chris Latronic, Sean Reilly Free Thinker: Tiffany Hervey, Tyler Rock, Cash Lambert, Bert Ishimaru, Mike Takahashi, Social Media: Sean Reilly Office Manager: Amy Withrow

Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Richy Arosemena, Eric Baeseman (Outbluffum.com), Paulo Barcellos, Brian Bielmann, Brent Bielmann, John Bilderback, Kyle Burnett, Ryan Craig, Quincy Dein, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Damea Dorsey, Paul Fisher, Ryan T. Foley, Pete Frieden, Dane Grady, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Jason Kenworthy, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Bruno Lemos, ManaPhoto, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Zak Noyle, Jim Russi, Keoki Saguibo, Epes Sargent, Jason Shibata, Batel Shimi, Scott Soens, DJ Struntz, Spencer Suitt, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson, Cole Yamane

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DJ Struntz

Cover Story

Billy Kemper & Brent Bielmann It happened last April at Off The Wall. Fatigued by endless work for the past two days, a reluctant Brent Bielmann used his last ounce of energy to stay a few moments longer in hopes of a golden hour gem too. The waves were really inconsistent, but that didn’t stop Maui charger Billy Kemper from paddling out. It was pretty much Brent, Billy and OTW. “Billy paddled out by himself and then the lighting got super beautiful. I knew if the right one lined up, I could get a great shot.” Brent explained. Then the ONE came into the bowl at OTW and like a synchronized extreme ballet, both Brent and Billy used their optimum form and technique to get in the spot to capture the moment. Brent explains the commitment needed to get shots as unique as his. “Taking shots like this are pretty risky. You gotta stay under the lip to near the point of impact. Sometimes even at the point of impact. I think I remember getting pretty pounded on this one. Well worth it.” Brent usually doesn’t go out of his way to show a surfer a shot. But this one was different. Brent had to show it to Billy. After seeing the photo, Kemper was so stoked on the capture that he bragged about it to all the boys who hadn’t seized the moment to surf that evening. Now nearly a half year later (to give Billy Kemper even more acclaim), Freesurf was so stoked on the shot that it was awarded the front cover of this month’s BOMBUCHA sized Board Buyer’s Guide issue. That’s BIG props. Good job boys! - Chris Latronic


Laserwolf

News & Events

It’s all his fault.

Turtle Trauma The Seven-mile Miracle Experiences Serious Roadway Clog Tiffany Hervey Gone are the days of complaining about big wave and surf contest traffic. It used to be that once the winter waves thundered along the seven-mile miracle, heavy traffic ensued due to contests, surfers and increased voyeurism of the majestic bombs rolling in. Over the last year however, traffic has been especially horrendous every day, especially when the ocean is dead flat. Why? Turtles. Turtle Tourism to be exact. Turtle tour buses and tourists in rental cars who have been guided to Laniakea Beach, termed “Turtle Beach.” Most five-star reviews on Yelp suggest showing up at 2 pm because that’s when the turtles “show up” at Laniakea Beach, which is exactly when traffic gets the worst. Because there is no cross-walk and the parking is an unregulated free-for-all, a constant slamming of breaks as humans jump in front of moving vehicles to cross the road to the beach results. On any given day, due to the tour bus parking congestion and jay-walking chaos, it can take 30 to 90 18

minutes to get from Haleiwa past Laniakea Beach, which is just 1.2 miles and should only take a couple minutes. Why is nothing being done? Because this small area is fragmented in ownership, so each accountable entity points fingers at the next. The City & County of Honolulu owns the parking lot. Kamehameha Schools owns the beach area. The Department of Transportation (DOT) owns and is responsible for the highway. In addition, North Shore residents have been calling the Honolulu Police Department asking them to ticket illegally parked tour buses and vehicles, reckless driving and jaywalking. “I’ve been calling the police every time I drive past and see cars parked in front of the no parking signs and the dispatcher says they will send someone out, which they don’t,” says Pancho Sullivan. “The Surf Bus parks illegally almost daily. They are not enforcing Endangered Species Act or the No Parking Signs. It’s lame—blind eye for tourism.” DOT’s Public Information Officer, Caroline Sluyter says her office has also been in contact with Honolulu Police Department to assist in enforcement when possible. “We are working with Hawaii Tourism Authority to assist in redirecting visitors and tour companies to other nearby locations where turtles are visible,” she adds. As part of the

DOT’s Highways Project, Kamehameha Highway Laniakea realignment, a designated task force will be looking at a proposal to block the entire area affected from any illegal parking. “We realize that this is not a perfect solution,” Sluyter says, “but one that will address the current illegal and unsafe activities that are causing the congestion along the Highway.”

At press time, NOAA and HPD had not returned requests for comment. Elite surf photographer John Bilderback and pro surfer Love Hodel made a comical Youtube video that points toward a solution: An existing bridge that goes underneath the highway, connecting the beach to the parking lot, with an easily found access-way right by the lifeguard tower.

Oh, we almost forgot about the turtles! Shouldn’t someone be protecting them from the masses, since surely if the parking lot is packed, the federally protected, endangered turtles on the beach below must be getting encroached upon?

“Neither blocking the parking lot off completely nor creating crosswalks addresses the root of the traffic problem at Laniakea,” explains Bilderback. “People and access are givens in my opinion. Making the cars park somewhere else displaces, not corrects the issue, and crosswalks will not reduce the number of people crossing the highway. With the bridge already being in place, it is an economical solution that will not only greatly improve traffic flow, but increase the safety of visitors.” pau

All sea turtles in Hawai‘i are protected under the Endangered Species Act and wildlife laws of the State of Hawai‘i. The recommended distance for observation of sea turtles in the wild is 50 yards. These laws prohibit harassing, capturing (possessing or removing), harming or killing sea turtles. Under state law, violation is a misdemeanor criminal offense, punishable by a fine up to $2,000 and/or 30 days in jail. Both NOAA Fisheries Enforcement and the Division of Conservation and Resources Enforcement are supposed to oversee this.

Report violations (standing too close is harassment) of protected sea turtles under the Endangered Species Act and wildlife laws of the State of Hawaii to: NOAA Fisheries Enforcement at (808) 5412727 (statewide) or the NOAA Fisheries Enforcement Hotline at 1(800)853-1964; Or call Division of Conservation and Resources Enforcement at (808) 587-0077.


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Rowland / ASP

News & Events

Rowland / ASP

2013 Hurley Pro The seventh stop on the ASP World Championship Tour, the Hurley Pro at Trestles, delivered action-packed progressive surfing in less than epic conditions. The event demonstrated that the best surfers in the world don’t need 10foot Pipe to blow our minds. Taj Burrow edged out fellow Australian, Julian Wilson, in a hard-fought final for his first ever win at Lowers. While Taj looked sharp all event, Julian Wilson appeared to be the favorite heading into the grand finale. Julian stuck impressive aerials with ease, but Taj would always answer back. The two Australians delivered a series of exciting exchanges in the high-scoring final, but the judges favored Burrow’s combination of powerful turns over Wilson’s lofty rotations. Burrow’s win at the Hurley Pro at Trestles marks his third career Final at the venue and the progressive natural-footer was elated to take out a win after two career runner-up finishes at Lowers. “It feels so good to tick this one off the list, I really wanted it more than any,” Burrow said. “I’ve had two second places and one really close one with Kelly (Slater) that I lost in the last minute. That one tore me up for a long time. I just couldn’t be happier that I got it.”

HURLEY PRO AT TRESTLES FINAL RESULTS 1 - Taj Burrow (AUS) 17.07 2 - Julian Wilson (AUS) 15.97 HURLEY PRO AT TRESTLES SEMIFINALS RESULTS SF 1: Taj Burrow (AUS) 15.83 def. Jordy Smith (ZAF) 11.10 SF 2: Julian Wilson (AUS) 17.40 def. Michel Bourez (PYF) 12.43 HURLEY PRO AT TRESTLES

QUARTERFINALS RESULTS QF 1: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 15.67 def. Kai Otton (AUS) 12.33 QF 2: Taj Burrow (AUS) 15.93 def. Patrick Gudauskas (USA) 13.70 QF 3: Michel Bourez (PYF) 17.90 def. Travis Logie (ZAF) 14.00 QF 4: Julian Wilson (AUS) 15.64 def. Josh Kerr (AUS) 13.04

CURRENT ASP WCT TOP 10: 1 - Mick Fanning (AUS) 41,900 points 2 - Kelly Slater (USA) 40,700 points 3 - Jordy Smith (ZAF) 35,700 points 4 - Taj Burrow (AUS) 35,400 points 5 - Joel Parkinson (AUS) 32,450 points 6 - Josh Kerr (AUS) 29,600 points 7 - Julian Wilson (AUS) 28,850 points 8 - Adriano de Souza (BRA) 27,500 points 9 - C.J. Hobgood (USA) 27,200 points 10 - Michel Bourez (PYF) 26,500 points 10 - Nat Young (USA) 26,500 points


CORY LOPEZ

SHARK CLASSIC 100 M STOPWATCH

FREESTYLEUSA.COM

COUNTDOWN TIMER

WATER RESISTANCE


Latronic

News & Events

International Bodyboarding Association Hawaii Pro Tour at Sandy’s For those of you who haven’t heard, Hawaii now has a professional body board tour with over $10,000 in cash and prizes! The IBA Hawaii Pro Bodyboarding Tour kicked off last month with the Sandy Beach Challenge, presented by Pepsi, Kellogg’s, Science Bodyboards, MS Viper fins, Gyroll Wetsuits and Leashes and T&C Surf. The competition saw a variety of conditions, ranging from solid 3-foot Half Point to ankle slapping wind chop. Inconsistent conditions challenged competitor’s wave selection and use of priority, but local knowledge prevailed and the pro’s ripped! “Hawaii arguably has not only the best bodyboarders but also wave conditions in the world. It just makes sense to have a professional tour here in the islands to showcase our local talent. It’s an exciting time for bodyboarders in Hawaii,” says former World Champion and IBA Hawaii Tour Event Director, Ben Severson.

DK PRO FINAL 1 - Mack Crilley 2 - Joshua Trotter 3 - Alan Lamphere 4 - Jacob Pembrook

JR PRO FINAL 1 - Tanner McDaniel 2 - Kawika Kamai 3 - Noa Auweloa 4 - Malino Ching

Latronic

Heff

Heff

Check out the results from the event below:

WOMEN PRO FINAL 1 - Mela Bartels 2 - Liana Carson 3 - Christina Delima 4 - Maya Hanzawa

MEN PRO FINAL 1 - Matt Holzman 2 - Jacob Romero 3 - Trevor Kam 4 - Guilherme Tamega


Tune in to OC16 for IBA Tour event highlights on Board Stories this October.


Hugh Gentry

News & Events

HAWAII'S OCEAN SPORTS HEADQUARTERS SI N C E 1 9 6 5

Molasses Mayhem On September 9th, a leaky pipe caused 1,400 tons of molasses to ooze into the Honolulu harbor. The brown sugary substance has caused more damage than ever imaginable. There is over 25,000 dead fish and the number continues to grow while precious coral reefs have also died. A pipe transferring molasses from storage tanks to ships sailing to California spilt as much as 233,000 gallons of sugarcane byproduct. That’s equivalent to what would fill about seven rail cars or about one-third of an Olympic-sized swimming pool. The molasses degrades the water quality while depleting it of Oxygen, causing all marine life to suffer. Some fish have even resorted to sticking their mouths out of the water. The Department of Health has warned people to stay out of the area because the dead fish had been attracting sharks and other predators like barracuda. There’s a possibility the state could fine Matson, the shipping company responsible for the spill, for violations of the Clean Water Act. Matson said in a statement it takes its role an environmental steward very seriously. The company is taking steps to ensure spills don’t occur in the future.

Freedom Surf Contest Surfing the Nations launched their 7th annual Freedom Surf Contest, “Surfers for a Drug-Free Hawaii,” last month in Waikiki at Kuhio Beach. The humanitarian non-profit organization successfully raised awareness about substance abuse prevention and rehabilitation issues in Hawaii. The contest helps counteract the widespread perception that surfing is only about individual fulfillment while giving back to society. Thanks for a great contest Surfing the Nations!

The Mayjah Rayjah

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Hawaii’s largest music festival of the year marked the end of an epic summer. The Mayjah Rayjah 2013 Music Festival treated Oahu, Maui, and Kauai to a phenomenal show filled with high-energy, renowned reggae beats, and worldwide legends.10,000 concertgoers enjoyed the iconic vocals of UB40’s Ali Campbell at the Kaka‘ako Waterfront Amphitheater in Oahu, while outer island venues featured New Zealand’s finest, Katchafire. All venues were treated to a spectacular show filled with international, national and local talents, marking the Mayjah Rayjah’s biggest show to date.


KIRON JABOUR WEARS THE HD3 FLUXUS BOARDIES FIND OUT MORE AT ALPINESTARS.COM/HD3


Cold Water Classic Gives Underdogs a Chance

The 1st Annual Kailua Shorebreak Classic was organized by Peter Miller in 2005 in memory of his best friend, fellow Kailua resident and professional surfer on the ASP World Tour, Jason Bogle, who had passed away of cancer the previous year. The event ended up being a great day for kids to have fun and gain experience in surfing contests without any of the pressure.

For three days in November, Santa Cruz’s legendary Steamer Lane will play host to the 2013 O’Neill Coldwater Classic Invitational. North America’s Longest Running surf contest has completely reinvented itself this year with a new invitational format for unsponsored professional surfers, four of which will be selected by an online vote by the general public.

In March of 2006, Peter and another close friend and competitive surfer from Kailua, David Aluli, both unexpectedly passed away within one week of each other. In the wake of such tragic events, the close friends and family members of the three men - including Peter’s twin brother Mike Miller, childhood friends and former professional surfers, Sean Yano and Matt Mondragon, and coach of the Hawaii Surf Team, Bert Ishimaru - decided to follow in Peter’s footsteps and continue the legacy in honor of their fallen comrades.

For the past three decades, The Lane has hosted various incarnations of the Coldwater Classic. This year’s event will be like none before; a men’s specialty event for unsponsored professional surfers, it will boast a unique “winner take all” grand prize. That grand prize is a yearlong sponsorship from O’Neill Wetsuits and $50,000 in travel incentives and contest fees.

In the years since, there has been a solid turn out of 100+ contestants competing in this one-day event. Every contestant leaves the beach with a prize pack, contest t-shirt and free lunch. There’s also a $1 raffle with 100% of the proceeds going directly to a different non-profit organization each year. After eight years, this event has become one of the bigger amateur surf contests on Oahu. But it’s not just the surfers who benefit, all those in attendance have a fun time and leave the beach with wonderful memories and great prizes.

Buffalo and Nappy to be named the 57th David Malo Awardees Friday, November 8th, the Rotary Club of West Oahu will honor two legends for their commitment to excellence. In 1957, the Rotary Club of West Honolulu established the David Malo Award. This award, given each year, recognizes an individual of Hawaiian ancestry whose accomplishments and life have portrayed the idea of high achievement in such fields as art, music, dance, education, science, community service, government, religion, business or sport. The award is named after David Malo whose accomplishments and life exemplify the ideal of high achievement and community service for the betterment of the world around us. This year’s 2013 David Malo Awardees have been announced — our congratulations goes out to Richard “Buffalo” Keaulana and Joseph “Nappy” K. Napoleon, Jr. Their total dedication to enrich, nourish and perpetuate the Hawaiian sport of surfing and paddling is unsurpassed. They join a distinguished group of awardees such as Reverend Abraham Akaka, Duke Kahanamoku, Kaui Zuttermeister, Judge William S. Richardson, Winona K. Ellis Rubin, Dr. Michael J. Chun, Ret. Gen Irwin K. Cockett, Jr., Dr. Richard Kekuni Blaisdell and the first awardee, Mary Kawena Pukui. For Ticket info, call Sandy Wong 955-3522

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ASP

Chris Latronic

9th Annual Kailua Shorebreak Classic

“O’Neill is extremely excited to be supporting athletes who may be considered underdogs. Helping surfers who’ve paid their dues, chase the dream of qualifying is good for our sport,” said O’Neill Wetsuits’ Director of Marketing Brian Kilpatrick. For local Santa Cruz surf news, or coverage, spotlights and photos of the Cold Water Classic, be sure to check out www.santacruzwaves.com.


PHOTO: BRENT

T: SURF A LE AND B LA HOP I A AV RF S SU E OR

EA S N

H

S H T R

NO

Body Glove and the hand design are registered trademarks of Body Glove international, LLC


Shoots / Brian Bielmann

We were on a trip to Mexico and we were shooting towats with a group of air guys. It was Nelly and I shooting from a boat- I think Nelly ended up getting all the best surf shots- but I was getting all artsy instead. It felt surreal, like being in the desert. Like the Sahara but with a wave also breaking... just something really different. Love those weird magic moments.


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JOHN JOHN WEARS HIS NEW SIGNATURE FOLD

TO LEARN ABOUT HAPPY LENSTM VISIT SPYOPTIC.COM/HAPPY


Dusty Payne

Resilience Through Healing By Tyler Rock

Brent Bielmann

Spotlight


-Damea Dorsey / A-Frame

As perhaps Hawaii’s top progressive competitive surfer, Maui boy Dusty Payne hasn’t had the easiest road on the World Tour. Since quickly climbing the ranks from junior stardom to qualifying in 2010, Dusty has been hard pressed to compete a full year on tour, injury free. With his most recent injury sidelining him through the Tahiti leg of the tour, Dusty is looking to make a quick comeback and finish the year strong on his home turf in Hawaii. Keeping his head high, Dusty is working through the set backs with positivity and the confidence that he will come back stronger and better than ever. We had a chance to chat with Dusty about his resilience and perseverance. Describe what your year has been like so far. It’s been a year of ups and downs for sure. I started the year at the Volcom Pipe Pro and had a good result there where I made the semis. Then I spent about 2 months in Australia doing events. I got my first major ASP win at the Drug Aware Pro in Margaret River. That was definitely the highlight of my competitive year so far. Since then I’ve struggled to get a good result in any of the events, which has been frustrating because I feel like my surfing is in a really good place. I felt like I was surfing better than ever but just not able to get a result. Then I got injured again in California about a month and a half ago and that was a big blow, but I’m coming back. Go through the injuries you’ve had since joining the tour. I tore my meniscus surfing in Santa Cruz a few years back, before I qualified for the World Tour. Then in my second year on tour I had a really bad wipeout in Tahiti, the day before the code red swell, where I hit the reef and got some major lacerations and cuts on my leg that put me out of the water for about 6 weeks. Two years ago at the Coldwater classic when it was still a QS I injured my ankle doing an air and that injury eventually made me miss half of 2012. Now, this most recent injury, I tore the MCL in my right knee. It seems like you’ve had a string of bad luck regarding injuries. Why do you think this is? I have no idea. I try not to think about it too much to be honest. I spend more time in the water than most people I know, so I guess statistically if you surf more often you have more opportunities to get hurt. But I really don’t know. I do believe everything happens for a reason. The trick is just trying to learn from each and every experience, good or bad.

“I think it takes resilience, and maybe a little stubbornness. More than anything though just having a positive mindset and keeping your thoughts in a positive place have a major impact on how well your body can recover.”

Describe the feeling knowing you just got sidelined from an injury. What goes through your head? There’s a lot of frustration and uncertainty initially, before you know for sure what the diagnosis is. Then once it sinks and you have a timetable for recovery it’s a lot of wishing you could be back in the water and surfing with your friends and doing what you love to do. What is your typical process for recovery/rehab? I’ve been pretty aggressive with my rehab. With this particular injury I have been doing a lot of physical therapy to keep my body in shape and try to get the muscles and ligaments in my knee strong so that I can get back as soon as possible without rushing back too early. Who has been the most influential in keeping you positive? I have had a great support team during this whole


Describe the mindset it takes to bounce back from injury. I think it takes resilience, and maybe a little stubbornness. More than anything though just having a positive mindset and keeping your thoughts in a positive place have a major impact on how well your body can recover. What are your thoughts on the ASP injury wildcard selection? I hope I don’t need it again, that’s for sure. I think it is a very fair process and I’m glad that its available, but I hope I won’t need it at the end of the year. Do you feel the modern progression movement in surfing lends to more injuries? Probably. You look what guys are doing in the water now and it’s amazing there aren’t more injuries. Aerial surfing can be very hard on your knees and ankles, and as people are trying to push the boundaries of innovation in the sport they are going to push the boundaries of what their bodies are capable of handling. What is the best way for surfers to prevent injuries? I’d say any kind of cross training to keep your body in shape. I have found cross fit to be a great way to prepare physically, but everyone is different so I think each person just needs to find what kind of training regiment works best for them and commit to that. Find something that you can do out of the water to complement your surfing and help to be more prepared. I believe nutrition is also a big part of staying healthy. What are your future plans/goals moving forward and when do you think you’ll be back in the water? My immediate goals are to continue with rehab and get back in the water. I just want to get back to surfing. Most importantly I want to be 100% by the time the Hawaii season and the Triple Crown rolls around. If I get back sooner, that would be great. Any last words for Freesurf readers? It’s amazing the capacity that each individual person has to accomplish great things if you are willing to work hard. Don’t ever give up or get discouraged from the goals that you have. pau

Epes / A-Frame

process. From my doctors and therapists, to my sponsors and friends and family. I’m not sure if I could single out any one person here, but everyone has helped me to stay positive and for that I am very thankful.


PORTFOLIO:

Brent Bielmann Hawai`i’s hot shot photographer shares the stories behind some of his favorite unseen images.


Jamie O’Brien. Tahiti. This shot was in Tahiti, Teahupoo. Not a huge day, like 4 to 6 foot, where the south ones come from a little bit higher up and meet the inside ledge and the west bowl bends into the reef. This one swung wide and so normally I would have been shooting, looking into the barrel. Instead I happened to be right in front of it and it exploded on my face. I got pushed into the lagoon and a little bit pounded.


Tahiti

Rosy Hodge

This particular shot was in the morning at Teahupoo, and we were on the boat still coming out from the channel. There was nobody out, and it was just perfect. This was one just one of the first waves of the morning that came through.

This was taken in front of my dad’s house where I grew up at Gas Chambers. It was a small summer day, and Rosy Hodge and I were shooting some photos. Just for fun.


Indo This is a shot of a local kid from Nias named Anton. His dad owns one of the main homestays. He’s only 15 maybe, but he rips. It’s funny because there’s so many young groms out of Indo that are riding pro’s old broken boards- like something you found from underneath the house- but are just getting barreled out of their minds.


40


Seth Moniz. Backdoor This was on the second morning of that really good swell last April. Seth got a few really good waves at Pipe and Backdoor on this particular swell and this was one of them. I was stoked because I never really shot too many photos of Seth, but he rips. I’ve always seen him around and always knew he was one of the really good up and comers out of Hawai’i. But after this swell I was like, whoa, this kid is going to be really good at Pipe and Backdoor.


John John. Tahiti I got to do a trip with John John, his brothers, Eli Olson, and Kiron Jabour to Tahiti for a couple days, and we caught a really good swell. This one was shot with a 50mm lens from the water. John John makes it look too easy.


Bethany Hamilton

Anthony Walsh. Tahiti

I went on a trip to Salina Cruz with Bethany Hamilton and Carissa Moore for Red Bull. Mexico has such cool backdrops with the sand dunes and everything. I convinced Bethany to model for me a little. Carissa was holding the reflector. They were having fun with it.

This is Chopes again, on the inside ledge. This is one of my favorite angles to get with the fisheye, mostly because I don’t normally get this one too often.


Kelly Slater. Pipe This was a really crowded evening, and kinda tough to get a good shot. It was kind of moving around and I was getting frustrated. I left the water not really feeling like I got anything, but was stoked when I saw this one. It’s a bit of a different angle than is normally seen at Pipe, and I don’t normally shoot with a long lens at Pipe either.


Nathan Florence. Tahiti This was from the same trip as the previous shot of John John. I hadn’t done a trip with Nathan before and I was super impressed at how hard he charges. He was just hucking himself over the ledge on the gnarliest drops, somehow just sliding into them and pretty much making every wave. I think he charged harder this trip than almost anyone.


Jamie O’Brien. Indo I was in Indo and Jamie O’Brien was there. I was just getting sucked into the Bali vortex and he was like, “let’s go to Nias, it’s going to be good.” I had gone the swell before and it wasn’t that good. It’s such a mission to get there, even from Bali. But I was stoked I went with him. He seems to really know his stuff down there for that swell direction. It was just Jamie, Ryan Hipwood and a few other guys, and it was 10 ft. solid for two straight days. Firing.


I LIKE PADDLING.

TEAM RIDER NATE CLOUD

PRINCIPAL AT THE SCHOOL OF LIKE

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THE PRODUCERS OF POSITIVE APPAREL *Wholesale pricing available upon request


Dax McGill

Photo Bielmann

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n a c i x e M t s e B ’s i i a Ha w

Restaurant

& Margarita Bar Panc ho Sullivan

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Located in the

North Shore Marketplace

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Aperture


Turtle’s aren’t the only ones responsible for North Shore traffic. A line up like this can bring just about anyone to a halt. Photo: Bruno Lemos


JD Irons, in the eye of an exploding vortex. Photo: Zak Noyle / A-Frame


Kamalei Alexander power surfing like its going out of style‌ don’t worry, its not. Photo: Frieden


Eala Stewart gliding through a curtain of blue. Photo: Nelly


Evan Valiere riding Pipe with classic style. Photo: Patrick Viera


Malia Manuel, the perfect balance of power and grace. Photo: Ryan Chachi Craig


A shop for kids with rad style. Only the best for our youth riding culture. Kahala Mall, Pearlridge Center & UpandRiding.com

Quiksilver, Billabong, Roxy, Vans, Toms, Volcom, Reef, Natives, Neff & more


Evan Geiselman, rocks. Photo: Spencer Suitt


Makua Rothman outrunning a freight train. Photo: Tony Heff


Fall / Winter 2013

Todd Glaser / A-Frame

Surfboard Buyer’s Guide


Rock

Heff

Bret Boards - Kala Alexander. Photo: Heff

demarco - Love Hodel. Photo: Rock


Da Magic Board By Bert Ishimaru Where’s my board? Is it done yet? Will it be finished by the next swell? These are just a few phrases that surfers around the world say on a daily basis. The connection between a surfer and a surfboard is as strong as man’s best friend and his owner. But for a surfer, what is the true allure to this curved piece of foam and fiberglass? The love affair probably dates back to the beginning of the modern day surfboard, when surfers and shapers started to experiment with design verses function and re-shaped future generations with hand made craftsmanship. Fifty some years later and this concept is still being utilized by board builders world wide, but now with state of the art computer programs and CNC milling machines. One thing that hasn’t changed over these decades is no two surfers are exactly alike and what works for one surfer might be the horrible opposite for another. So the quest begins to find the perfect match, your aquatic soul mate! But in today’s surfboard market with so much variety and technology available how does a surfer choose the right surfboard?

build a solid quiver from small wave fishes to step up guns. Choosing a model or design can be tougher than getting a bomb set wave when Pipeline is gong off. Rocker, concaves, foil and outline are the ingredients to a surfboard masterpiece. Riding and trying out new models is the best way to find the right design for you. Luckily some brands offer sample boards in store to borrow, or demo tours are available to test all the latest equipment. Most brands also have ample information on their websites and some give comparisons between each of their models. Between polyurethane, polystyrene, or sandwich epoxy, the materials not only determine the strength of the board but the performance as well. Lighter and more buoyant epoxy boards have made a huge impact for small wave performance, but in solid waves polyurethane has held its ground with weight and flex ratio. Like the models, testing or demoing the different materials is the best way to find out what works best for each surfer.

tends to dictate the set up that will work best for you, and utilizing a fin system gives you the choice to experiment with the size, template and flex pattern of the fin. If you have a hard time finding the right board off the rack, ordering a custom board is a great alternative. Getting a board designed specifically for you takes a little more time and trying to find the right shaper to work with can be challenging. But the amount of surfing information you provide and feedback about the equipment you’re riding makes it easier to build a stronger working relationship with a shaper and gives them the opportunity to make you the right board. It doesn’t matter if you’re a weekend warrior or touring professional, every surfer gets fired up when they get a new board. It’s the kind of feeling that makes you drop everything to hit the water with your new stick. But what’s the connection, the allure to this mysterious piece of foam and fiberglass? You wax up and hit the water, and all of the elements come together. Every ride feels seamless, and you’re in a state of euphoria, and suddenly you realize, you found the magic board!

Finding the right dimensions is an important first step. Your height, weight, ability and the size of surf you plan to use the board in are key factors to getting the right dimensions. In today’s high tech surfboard world, ‘liters’ is the cheat sheet to ace the dimension exam. Most surfboard brands include this valuable bit of information on each of their boards, and utilizing liters can help you

A surfboard without fins is like an airplane with no wings or a car with no wheels. Fins are a big part of enhancing the design of your board and have progressed tremendously in the last decade with refined contours, foils, and space age materials. Single, twin, thruster, quad, and five fin, the combinations are endless. Your style

Album Surfboards

Bret Boards

Ledge

The Blade

Nitrous

Shaped by Bret Marumoto 7’2”x 19.25 x 2.68 Futures fin system (five fin option)

Shaped by Bret Marumoto 5’10” 18.50, 2.32 FCS2 fin system (tri fin) 4oz E-glass+ 4oz warp glass DECK 4oz-E glass BOTTOM

Shaped by Matt Parker, Album Surfboards 7’7” x 20.75” x 2.88” quad/single fin option Made to get in early and get piped. This design can be ridden from 5’10”-8’0”. Customs start at $550 (949) 212-6566 albumsurf.com matt@albumsurf.com threadsandfins.com instagram.com/albumatt

Tested for over two decades in the Mecca of big wave surf, THE BLADE is the North Shore version of the heavy water gun. Designed with racey outlines that are made to handle high speed. Subtle concave and slight spiral vee running off the tail create precision turning accuracy when you need it most. The fin placement gives you total confidence in any big wave situation. Riders: Keala Naihe, Koa Rothman, Flynn Novak, Moana & Kai Jones, Barca, Kalani Chapman, Isaiah Briley, Derek Ho, Mike Ho,Tanner Hendrickson, Isaiah Moniz, Kaiborg.

Bret Boards

The newly refined outline, rocker, and single concave to vee off the tail on the NITROUS equates to immense speed. A squash or swallow tail compliments this board in smaller surf, but if its overhead and juicy a rounded pin is your tail of choice. Riders: Keala Naihe, Koa Rothman, Flynn Novak, Moana & Kai Jones, Barca, Kalani Chapman, Isaiah Briley, Derek Ho, Mike Ho,Tanner Hendrickson, Isaiah Moniz, Kaiborg. www.bretboards.com

www.bretboards.com


Heff

Heff

Hi-Tech - Ola Eleogram

Hydroflex - Brett Simpson


Bret Boards

demarco surfboards

Uncle

The Beastman Model

Shaped by Bret Marumoto 7’2” 20.38, 2.88 Futures fin system (four fin)

Shaped by Joe DeMarco 6’0” x 20 1/4” x 2 5/8” vol: 96 beers

No matter the conditions, the name says it all. UNCLE makes it easy to rely on because of its quick rail to rail transitions and smooth turning for speed and flow. The subtle single to double concave vee creates a wellbalanced bottom. The flat deck and progressive rocker make this board great for your typical every day surf session. Best if ordered from 6’10”- 8’0” tri or quad.

The Beastman model is a full volume board with high performance profile. It’s built for our stronger, heavier riders to excel in all conditions up to around 6 ft . Holds tight in the pocket and releases strong off the top. Five fin option for maximum versatility. Custom tiger stripe airbrush inspiration by Kelly Kantner.

Riders: Keala Naihe, Koa Rothman, Flynn Novak, Moana & Kai Jones, Barca, Kalani Chapman, Isaiah Briley, Derek Ho, Mike Ho,Tanner Hendrickson, Isaiah Moniz, Kaiborg.

(808) 220-6822 www.demarcosurf.com www.facebook.com/ demarcosurf @demarco_surfboards

demarco surfboards The Discus Model Shaped by Joe DeMarco 5’5” x 21” x 2 1/2” vol: 89 beers The Discus model is the little skateboard of your quiver. Turn those dismal days into a fun little skate park launching airs and grinding lips. This board has plenty of volume in the center for paddling then slims down to a high performance rail that feels smooth and lively through turns. Custom Goonies airbrush inspiration by Ryan Taylor. (808) 220-6822 www.demarcosurf.com www.facebook.com/ demarcosurf @demarco_surfboards

www.bretboards.com

demarco surfboards

HA • VAI • `I papa he‘e nalu

HA • VAI • `I papa he‘e nalu

The Reddog Model

Kapakahi

HeAHA

Shaped by Joe DeMarco 9’6” x 21 1/2” x 3 3/8” vol: 205 beers

Shaped by Jay Behrens 5’4” x 19” x 2 3/16”

Shaped by Jay Behrens 9’0” x 22 ” x 2 ”

This surfboard is one of many designs that have two completely different outlines on each side of the surfboard, you decide which two types of boards you would like in one stick. The toe side of the human foot applies and adjusts pressure to the deck/rail of a surfboard differently than the heel of the foot. Design a custom board with me to suit your individual desires.

This longboard model is designed for a regular foot surfer. The breaks in the outline help it to surf shorter than it would with a conventional rail line. Initially this parabolic curve was experimented with on big wave guns to loosen the heel side of the board only. This surfboard has a break on the toe side rail too, because it proved to be so fun.

The Reddog model was designed with Team rider Brent “Reddog” Symes as his go-to board for macking Outer Reefs, Waimea Bay and Puerto Escondido. A full outline with a pulled in rounded pin gives you plenty of float while maintaining maximum control. Equipped with triple stringers, a five fin setup and heavy glass, this board is ready for serious waves around the world. (808) 220-6822 www.demarcosurf.com www.facebook.com/ demarcosurf @demarco_surfboards

Test Pilots: You, Smitty Lemaire, Ben Wilkinson, Jack Paratoi, Jackson Kyne Price: foam blank + customized shape= $35.00/ ft. (Glass and fins not included in price). (808) 637-3315 haleiva@yahoo.com

Test Pilots: You, Smitty Lemaire, Ben Wilkinson, Jack Paratoi, Jackson Kyne. Price: foam blank + customized shape= $35.00/ ft. (Glassing and fins not included in price). (808) 637-3315 haleiva@yahoo.com


Kazuma - Kylen Imai Devault. Photo: Heff

Heff

Kashiwai - Kylen Yamakawa. Photo: Cole Yamane

John G


Hawaiian Island Creations

Hydroflex

Hi-Tech

AMPLIFIER

V2 Short Board …Lost Hydroflex 5’10” x 19” x 2.25”

Skullbase Brand Ian Walsh Pro model

Eric Arakawa’s new Amplifier Model is an evolved version of his K4 model, modified for Joel Centeio. The tail rocker is more relaxed and the concave is amplified through the mid-section. This increases forward lift for greater acceleration and speed. The shape of the concave creates better grip and drive through bottom turns and increased speed into the lip and beyond. The Amplifier is a great highperformance short board for intermediate to advanced skill levels, and is the perfect addition to your winter quiver. (808) 973-6780 www.hicsurf.com stephen@hicsurf.com

Built in Hydroflex Natural 3D construction, the V2-Short Board is the most anticipated new shortboard model we have had in years. The exceedingly low entry rocker, coupled with continuous and generous tail lift, made for a board that both paddled and rolled into waves well, but turned tight and precise in the pocket. The board features a similar foil and rails as its predecessor and continues to have slight double concave deck under the rear foot (which really feels positive and “locks” the surfer into place).

Shaped by Matt Kazuma Kinoshita 6’1” × 18.375” × 2.31” Available only at Hi-Tech Surf Sports (808) 877-2111 425 Koloa St. Kahului, HI 96732 www.surfmaui.com www.facebook.come/ HiTechMaui

(760) 757-7006 richard@hydroflex-surfboards.com www.hydroflex-surfboards.com 3204 Production Ave E Oceanside, CA, 92058

Jason Kashiwai Surfboards

John G Surfboards

John G Surfboards

ZINGER

ONFIRE Shaped by John Gentile 6’ x 18 7/8” x 2 3/8”

Stringerless Bamboo/Carbon

Shaped by Jason Kashiwai 5’11 X 18 1/2 X 2 1/4 (pictured: Kylen’s board) The ZINGER is a performance small wave board, features a high-defined wing and a squash tail. This board has a lot of curve and rocker running throughout the bottom rocker, but at the same time I’ve kept the nose and tail tips fairly low. This creates a larger sweet spot with a lot of drive for today’s above the lip line surfing. Team Riders: Kylen Yamakawa, Stephen Koehne, Mike Dodd, Matt Costa, Charlie Akeo and Robert Griloh III. Price: Affordable (808) 864-0987 info@jasonkashiwaisurfboards.com www.jasonkashiwaisurfboards.com Facebook: Jason Kashiwai

This is a small - medium wave shortboard. Straight outline and a wide tail makes for good speed and airs. Slight flip in the nose rocker and a smooth curve off the tail rocker. The bottom has single to double concaves with a little vee. Tucked edge shaped into the board, not built up with extra resin. The rails are painted with black and white abstract swirl and green pinline with black shadow. Team Rider: Jeremy Romero $375 - $475 w/ color work (808) 321-0611 @johngsurfboards johngsurfboards@gmail.com johngsurfboards.blogspot. com/

Shaped by John Gentile 5’ 9” x 20 1/4” x 2 1/2” Stringerless polyurethane foam reinforced with vacuum bagged carbon rails and bamboo deck. Glassed with epoxy resin. Super strong and light. Deep single concave to vee with deep double concaves flowing out the tail. This board is really responsive and has lively flex. Team Rider: Jeremy Romero Starts at $600 Custom shapes Custom art and color Custom glassing Polyester and Epoxy Order at: (808) 321-0611 @johngsurfboards johngsurfboards@gmail.com johngsurfboards.blogspot.com/


Local Motion - Keanu Asing. Taylor Ivision

Madrid

Minami - Mahina Maeda. Photo: Heff

Robin Johnston


Kazuma Surfboards

Local Motion

Local Motion

Jaws Mega Gun

BF-19

The Plank

Shaped by Matt Kazuma Kinoshita 10’6” x 20.75” x 4”

Shaped by Wade Tokoro 5’8” x 18 5/8” x 2 1/4”

Shaped by Wade Tokoro 5’5” x 20” x 2 1/4”

The BF-19 is Keanu Asing’s Pro Model and was designed by combining two of his favorite designs. The rocker, concave and foil are based off his small wave board. The outline is based off his all-around board. The merging of the two designs created a great all-around to small wave surfboard. This is Keanu’s go-to board in most surf conditions and competition. The BF-19 is available in FCS and Future Fins, squash, swallow or roundpin.

The Plank is a great board for small to medium surf. The pointy nose and fuller outline makes this board turn and paddle well. The medium low rocker combined with single concaves make The Plank a perfect south shore board. Quick, sharp turns with a choptail, or pivot off the 3 points with a diamond tail. The Plank comes stock as a 5 fin to complete this versatile model.

“Trust the board that started the Jaws paddle revolution.” Available at: (808) 575-7510 Kazuma Surfboards Hawaii 375 W. Kuiaha Rd. #62 www.kazumasurf.com matt@kazumasurf.com And at: Hi-Tech Surf Sports Maui

(808) 254-7873 Follow us on Instagram @ localmotionhawaii www.localmotionhawaii.com

Madrid Skateboards Dude 38.75” – Native Madrid Skateboards Length: 38.75” Width: 9” Wheelbase: 26.5” Camber, Concave, Diamond Kicktail, Sanded Wheel Wells Far out man, real far out. With a diamond kicktail, concave, camber, and hand-sanded wheel wells, the Dude comes outfitted with all the tools you’ll ever need to carve, slash, and shred your way to skating nirvana. (714) 897-5656 MadridSkateboards.com FullCircleDistribution.com info@madridskateboards.com Team Riders: Zak Maytum, Max Dubler, Calvin Staub, Peter Eubank

(808) 254-7873 Follow us on Instagram @ localmotionhawaii www.localmotionhawaii. com

Mark Angell Surfboards

Mendonca Surfboards

SLIDER

Semi Gun

Hand-Shaped by Mark Angell 6’7” x 20” x 2 3/8” This is my take on a finless board. A unique combo of channels and concaves with a fuller shape allows you to create new lines on a wave and controlled powerslides. The fuller template with lower rocker makes waves easier to catch. Proven and test ridden at Ma’alaea on Maui. Great for surfer’s that want to add another super fun and exciting dimension to their surfing. (808) 651-1234 markangellsurfboards.com markangellsurfboards@ gmail.com

Shaped by Paulo Mendonca 7’2” x 18 1/2” x 2 1/2 Board designed for high performance maneuverability in larger surf. $680 (808) 450-7621 mendoncasurfboard.com mendoncasurfboards@live. com Team Riders: Rodrigo Koxa, Alex Martins, Danilo Couto, Hank Gaskell, Lapo Coutinho


Rock

Scovel

Bryce Johnson

HIC - Micah Moniz. Photo: Rock

Nezzy - Davey Boy. Photo: Chris Latronic


Michael Tuten Designs Hawaii The Buzzard Shaped by Michael Tuten 7’4” x 20 1/2” x 2 3/4” The Buzzard is a great versatile board for speed and power that takes the crowd out of the equation. Enjoy effortless velocity and true rail surfing. Shown in tri fin configuration with gloss and polish, blue tint, and classic double resin pinlines. Made in Hawaii. Boards start at $100 per foot (808) 551-0795 www.mtdhawaii.com orderaboard@aol.com instagram: @mtdhawaii

Minami Surfboards F-2 Plus Shaped by Glenn Minami 6’8 x 18 3/8 x 2 3/8 Round Pin Model Range: 6’2 to 6’10 The F-2 Plus is the perfect step up board for our Country surf. It’ll get you into larger waves easily and provide total control at high speed. Triple concaves and a smooth rocker curve provide great acceleration with just the right amount of looseness. The F-2 Plus is a must in your North Shore quiver. (808) 387-9875 gnminami@gmail.com www.minamisurfboards.com Starts at $450

Minami Surfboards F-3 Gun Shaped by Glenn Minami Pictured: 7’2 x 18 3/8 x 2 5/16 (Deiren Perrow’s Pipe board) Model Range: 7’0 to 8’6 The F-3 Gun is geared for those big to very big days. Curves are very smooth and super eye pleasing. Make it wider and thicker than your step-ups and it’ll get you into those thick juicy ones. It’s fast, maneuverable and will draw incredibly smooth lines over large faces. When it gets big you can count on the F-3 Gun. (808) 387-9875 gnminami@gmail.com www.minamisurfboards. com Starts at $500

Monstah! Surfboards

Monstah! Surfboards

Dabbler

Da Gizmo

Size Shown: 5’10_ x 19 1/8 x 2 3/8, Vol. 27.6 Outline: Hi performance/all rounder Rocker: Med nose and med/ low entry, moderate tail rocker Bottom: Single to double flat/ vee out the tail Tail: Hip-Squash Fin Setup: 5 fin Convertible Order your Dabbler with custom dims from 5’5” to 6’10”. This is a high performance board meant to be ridden in tight pocket, hollow steep waves; for moderate to expert level surfers. This will be your go-to board when the swell is in the fun size range.

Size Shown: 5’8_ x 19 1/2 x 2 5/16, Vol. 27.7 Outline: Hi performance/ Groveler Rocker: Low nose and low entry, low kick in the tail Bottom: Single to light vee out the tail Tail: Wide Rounded Squash Fin Setup: 5 fin Convertible

monstahglasshawaii.com Facebook: Monstah Surfboards/Makani Shapes. Available at Rip Curl Ala Moana in Town and Third Stone on the North Shore

monstahglasshawaii.com Facebook: Monstah Surfboards/Makani Shapes. Available at Rip Curl Ala Moana in Town and Third Stone on the North Shore

MS Distribution MS3 (JB Hillen) Science Bodyboards Sizes: 39.5, 40.5, 41.5, 42.5 Bat tail, stringer(s), channels, layer of mesh. Excellent prone board for boosting huge airs! msdhawaii@hotmail.com

Order yours with custom dims from 5’0” to 6’5”. Very versatile board, Da Gizmo can be ridden by all shapes, sizes and skill levels, from entry to expert. This will be your go-to board most of the small days in between big swells.

DABBLER

GIZMO


Heff

Bryce Johnson

Heff

Powerdrive - Kaiman Jaquias. Photo: Rock


Nezzy Surfboards

RJ Surfboards

The Krook

Flybrid

Shaped by Tom Nesbit 6’0 x 21 x 2 1/2”

Shaped by Robin Johnston Dimensions custom to order

Short, wide, (stout) comes with a lower entry rocker moderate tail rocker and deep concaves, easy to catch waves and extremely fast board. Order 3” shorter than your standard shortboard. Comes standard with a 5 fin setup so ride as a quad, a tri fin or quad with a small trailer, this board is a must have board in your quiver. (760) 215-4554 www.nezzysurfboards.com tom@nezzysurfboards.com

This is a performance small wave model for knee high to a couple feet overhead surf. Great all around. Easy to paddle, loose and drivey. Medium-low rocker and generous foam distribution. Ride a little shorter than the standard short board. Order in polyurethane or Epoxy. $420 for poly, $505 for Epoxy (808) 738-7873 www.rjsurf.com rjsurfboards@aol.com

PowerDrive Hawaii Surfboards

PowerDrive Hawaii Surfboards

PD-K4 2

PD-LB H-1 EPS Epoxy

Shaped by Yoshi Umeda 5’ 9” x 18 1/2” x 2 3/16” Kaipo Jaquias rode this model at the ISA World Masters Nicaragua contest. It features a single to double concave and has some rocker to the nose. The nose is made slightly wider and thicker to produce speed on the wave. The most important characteristic of this board is that the apex of the rocker is a little forward from the center, making it possible for power drive turns and big ripping! Team riders: Kaipo Jaquias, Kaimana Jaquias, Elijah Gates, Marvin Nuestro, Brennan Boudreau (808) 741-7085 powerdrivehawaiisurfboards.com powerdrivesurf7@aol.com Facebook: Power Drive Surfboards

Shaped by Yoshi Umeda 9’ 1” x 21 1/2” x 2 1/2” This board features a slight single concave to a deeper double V-concave. A versatile board that can go vertical or cruise on with your toes on the nose. Team riders: Kaipo Jaquias, Kaimana Jaquias, Elijah Gates, Marvin Nuestro, Brennan Boudreau (808) 741-7085 powerdrivehawaiisurfboards. com powerdrivesurf7@aol.com Facebook: Power Drive Surfboards

Scovel Surfboards Kauai Transmission Shaped by Will Scovel, art by Kylito 6’4 x 18 3/4 x 2 3/8 Tail: round pin Fin setup. Thruster, quad, or 5 fin Optional setup. A high performance step up shortboard. Ride 2 - 4 inches longer than your standard shortboard. More volume with nice med. rails, med. nose/tail rocker, single to double concave. Transmission gives you that extra comfortable confidence with hold for crisp turns, barrels and getting into a steep wave earlier! Great board for intermediate to professional levels. (808) 652-7929 willscovel@yahoo.com scovelsurfboards.com Instagram: scovel_ surfboards_kauai

Slick Surfboards Slick Noserider Channel bottom Shaped by Chris Schlickenmeyer exclusively for Slick Surfboards 9’ x 22.5” x 2.5” The V Channel-1 (Slick’s Personal Model). This is the stick that master-shaper Slick himself rides for both recreational use and contest conditions. His 45 years of experience speaks volumes. The channel bottom holds the board in the curl while you’re on the nose; it’ll make you reconsider how a single fin board can turn. Ride it- you’ll love it so much, you won’t want to paddle out with anything else. $695 Contact Ben Komer, Slick Surfboards at (808) 478-4644 to learn more today.


Mike Latronic

T&C - Kekoa Bacalso. Photo: Heff

Mike Latronic

Tokoro - Hank Gaskell. Photo: Heff


Surf Design Hawaii

T&C

Shaped by RP

MS1

Artwork by Alia S 5’11” x 18 5/8” x 2 1/8” - 4 door cheap runner - 5 speed, 4 cylinder, weber carb, headers, plenty drive n acceleration - Original owner, low mileage - Runs great, recent tune-up, no leaks, turns on a dime - Fresh paint, new brakes, battery and tires - 5k OBO, no low ballers

Shaped by Glenn Pang 6’2” x 18 1/2 x 2 3/8 Good all around shortboard with single to double concave. Our team rider favorites! (808) 483-8383 www.tcsurf.com enquiries@tcsurf.com

(808) 936-1316 surfdesignhawaii@gmail.com website coming soon

Tokoro Surfboards 4 Shaped by Wade Tokoro 6’6” x 18 3/4” x 2 3/8” This model is designed from research and development over the years with some of the top professionals from around the world. With gradual and refined outlines, this progressive design functions off a solid bottom with light double concaves and vee off the tail. The 4 has incredible control and handling in the heaviest situations. www.tokorosurfboards. com Tokoro Boardroom @ the Quiksilver store in the Ward Warehouse

Wooden Classics Hawaii

Wooden Classics Hawaii

Wooden Classics Hawaii

Mango Alaia Life

Kona Boys Round Pin Thruster

Koa Alaia Lite

Shaped by Gary Young 6’-6” x 18 x 1, 8 lbs. (Other sizes available) Totally new technology lightweight, hi-performance, durable epoxy/ Hawaiian grown woods (thin sawn like guitars), XPS foam core - NO fiberglass. Display on walls, as counter/table or vertically for that retro Island look.

Shaped by Gary Young 6’2” x 18.5 x 2.3, 5.8 lbs Totally new technology lightweight, hi-performance, durable epoxy/Hawaiian grown wood (thin sawn like guitars) XPS foam core board - NO fiberglass. Future Fin boxes. Custom shapes! Kona Boys Gear for Island Life

Available at art galleries: Hilo Fine Arts; P3 Paddling Products, Kona; Harbor Gallery, Kawaihae; Hawi Gallery; Maui Hands - Paia & Makawao. Gallery Inquires invited Price range $1500-$3000 depending on woods. (808) 965-5190 www.Alaialite.com alaialite@gmail.com

About $750, call for custom board pricing (808) 328-1234 www.Konaboys.com info@konaboys.com 79-7539 Hawaii Belt Rd. Kealakekua, HI 96750

Shaped by Gary Young 6’-6” x 18 x 1, 8 lbs. (Other sizes available) Totally new technology - lightweight, hiperformance, durable epoxy/ Hawaiian grown woods (thin sawn like guitars), XPS foam core - NO fiberglass. Display on walls, as counter/table or vertically for that retro Island look. Available at art galleries: Hilo Fine Arts; P3 Paddling Products, Kona; Harbor Gallery, Kawaihae; Hawi Gallery; Maui Hands - Paia & Makawao. Gallery Inquires invited Price range $1500-$3000 depending on woods. (808) 965-5190 www.Alaialite.com alaialite@gmail.com


DaKine - Granger Larsen. Photo: Heff

Sticky Bumps - Bethany Hamilton. Photo: Kenworthy

Futures - John John Florence. Photo: Eric Baesemann


Dakine

Dakine

Dakine

Waterman Hydration Pack SUP Paddle Bag Fits up to two paddles Durable 600D Polyester 1/4” Foam padding Heavy duty, corrosion proof zipper Adjustable shoulder strap / handle

70 oz. [ 2L ] reservoir with Quick Disconnect hose Two external pockets Waist and sternum straps Mesh side panels Lightweight nylon / mesh construction

Adjustable 70-84” [ 178-213cm ] $60.00 MSRP $45.00 MSRP www.dakine.com Instagram: Dakine_surf http://instagram.com/dakine_surf#

www.dakine.com Instagram: Dakine_surf http://instagram.com/dakine_surf#

SUP 10’x5/16” Coil leash Open Water SUP leash Sup Specific, straight-coil-straight coiling method keeps leash on the board and out of the water Overmolded leash ends Double swivels Triple Wrap rail saver www.dakine.com Instagram: Dakine_surf http://instagram.com/dakine_surf# $28.00 MSRP

FCS

FCS

FCS

FCS II REACTOR

FCS II PERFORMER

FCS II ACCELERATOR

Fast reacting fin with an upright template for surfers who like performing tight radius turns in the pocket. Designed for hollow steep waves and punchy beach breaks. www.surffcs.com RRP: $110

Versatile template designed for surfers who want a balance between speed and manuverability with flow between turns. Designed to suit a diverse range of surfers, conditions and board types. www.surffcs.com RRP: $110

Oversized functional template with flat foil side fins designed for surfers who like to attack the wave and surf with energy and power. Particularly good in critical overhead waves. www.surffcs.com RRP: $110

FCS

FCS

FCS

FCS II CARVER

FCS II MB (Large)

FCS II AM (Medium)

Elongated fin designed for power surfers who like to push hard against their fins, draw out their turns, and carve on the open face. Ideal for point and reef breaks. www.surffcs.com RRP: $110

Matt ‘Mayhem’ Biolos’s signature template delivers a lively combination of drive, hold and manoeuvrability. This versatile fin will feel reliable out on the open face or tight in the pocket. www.surffcs.com RRP: $120

Al Merrick’s medium size template is designed for radical, progressive surfing. The raked side fins produce exceptional speed and drive, while the smaller centre fin offers quick release through turns. www.surffcs.com RRP: $100


FCS - Kiron Jabor. Photo: Rock

Heff

Freestyle - Nakoa Dakoit. Photo: Heff

Fin-S - Sunny Garcia. Photo: Mike Latronic


FCS

FCS

Fin-S

Origin Accelerator

Origin Accelerator

SG1

Rovings on the base of the fins offer the feel of traditional fixed fins. The stiff base and progressive tip flex is ideal for controlled power surfing at high speeds. www.surffcs.com RRP: $130

Rovings on the base of the fins offer the feel of traditional fixed fins. The stiff base and progressive tip flex is ideal for controlled power surfing at high speeds. www.surffcs.com RRP: $130

This is the Signature Series Sunny Garcia thruster screwless/toolless fin set. This set was specially designed with Sunny along with a unique fish scale graphic set that represents him. This is a larger fin, but is generally good for medium to large surfers. www.Fin-S.com info@fin-s.com

Futures

Freestyle

Jimbo’s Surf Wax

John John Signature Techflex

Mariner Tide

Private Label Surf Wax

h: 4.56 | b: 4.45 | a: 14.98 Medium (145lbs – 195lbs) www.futuresfins.com/jjf.php $100.00

Accurate ocean knowledge at your fingertips, the Mariner Tide features a 50mm case, durable silicone band, sunset/ sunrise and tide data for 150 beaches worldwide. www.freestyleusa.com MSRP: $100

Jimbo’s Surf Wax is a family owned and operated small business, and also the industry leader in private label surf wax. We take pride in working with small and large surf shops along with shapers and surf companies. Full color glossy labels, NO SET UP FEES, NO MINIMUMS. Give me a shout- Thanks Jimbo. Call Jimbo’s Cell (203) 339-2080 Or email service@jimbosurf.com

Leashlok Hawaii

Pro Teck Performance Fins By SurfCo Hawaii

Our new leash line includes: The TEAM Series, Competition Series, Heavy Series, SUP Series and our team rider Kody Kerbox’s Signature Series. They are all made with the highest quality materials and put to the highest possible test in Hawaiian surf. At a shop near you or visit us at www.LEASHLOKHAWAII.com

Pro Teck fins have a flexible leading and trailing edge designed to enhance board performance and reduce fin cuts. The flexible trailing edge allows water to flow smoothly off the fin and creates a “rudder action” making turns tighter and more fluid than conventional hard edge fins. Available at your local surf shop. (808) 488-5996 SurfCo Hawaii www.surfcohawaii.com


Accessories

Sticky Bumps

Ransom

Twisted Board Racks

Bethany Hamilton Signature Traction Pad

Get Your Ransom…..Ask your local shop to see our full line of waxes and gear! Proud sponsors of Zeke Lau, Tati Weston-Webb, Tia Blanco, Maluhia & Mainei Kinimaka and Devin Brueggemann.

Surfboard Wall Racks

Check out the latest in Sticky Bumps grip along with our other signature models from Dylan Goodale and Alessa Quizon. Coming to a finer surfing establishment near you 2014.

Most affordable wall racks available. Displays your board at any angle or height, on any wall. Twist to open, twist to store. Fast, easy installation. Eco-friendly Teak Wood. Variety of styles and colors available. Price: $24.95 free shipping

www.ransomwax.com www.stickybumps.com

www.twistedboardracks.com

The Future of Shapes As surfing keeps progressing to new heights, so too do the boards. The industry is seeing innovative technologies that are propelling surfboards into a whole new category- lighter, stronger, more flexible, exact replicas, even eco-friendly. Using inventive materials adds to the performance and life of the board, creating anomaly surfers and mastermind shapers. Hydroflex is a name that’s carved it’s way into this innovative picture. With patented 3D glassing, Hydroflex technology replaces the conventional 2D adhesion surface with a 3D bonding structure. Developed by German surfer and shaper Bufo, this unique bonding structure multiples the bonding surface and strength between resin, cloth and core. And by using Epoxy resin compared to standard polyester resin, boards have twice the flex before cracking. Times they are a changing, but one thing is certain about riders and their boards. Nothing makes for a more perfect fit than a custom shaped surfboard. And in Joe DeMarco’s words, “The custom board experience will live on and thrive forever.” Bret Marumoto: “My production glassing factory is using Ultra Violet (U.V.) glassing system. This system of glassing has our surfboards coming out brighter in color and more U.V. resistant to sun damage. Also using less catalyst means stronger surfboards. The greatest benefit is less toxic fumes going into our atmosphere due to an increase in resin curing time.” Robin Johnston is using Epoxy Resin and EPS foam and carbon. “Adding Carbon patches on the boards tails prevents the denting and crushing we all loathe. This extends the life of the light performance short board. Carbon rails used on stringerless boards can provide unique flex patterns. Rigidity is now in the rails rather than the center of the board.” Mike Tuten: “The expanded polypropylene blanks I CNC shaped in San Clemente at LAP were the lightest, strongest I’ve ever seen. You could punch a shaped blank with your fist as hard as you could and it’d just go “boing!” and not show a scratch. They also had incredible flex and springback properties.” Matt Kazuma Kinoshita: “The Polystyrene and epoxy boards we were building 20 years ago. Now with the Kolohe Andinos, John John’s and the new school surfers changing surfing, this ultra quick surfing is a must, which means the boards have to finally change. Carbon, EPS, Epoxy and the hybrid polyurethane/epoxy combinations are producing some of the best performing and longest lasting boards that I have ever seen.” Yoshida Umeda (Powerdrive): “The biggest change in surfboard technology is the advantage of using computers because you can save and recall data of any specific surfer’s any specific board. This makes it possible to exactly recreate the same board with the same dimensions, rocker, concave, etc. It also makes it possible to further tune boards in finer detail based on the board’s existing data.” Jeff Bushman: “The future will always bring new ideas and materials, and always will improve what and how we ride.”

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Rock

Community

need to make drastic life changes in the next 12-24 months or they are likely to be incarcerated as adults. To date, SSS has matched over 300 youth with adult volunteer mentors and they have continued to display a positive impact on a variety of levels with their students. Currently in Hawai’i, the juvenile justice and educational systems are struggling to transform at-risk and adjudicated youth into positive and productive citizens with over 5,000 youth in the juvenile justice system and fewer than 65 probation officers. About 1 in 6 (16%) Hawai’i high school students will drop out of school before graduating. Among at-risk and adjudicated youth, the numbers are even higher. 77% of female and serious juvenile offenders in Hawai’i have failed academically; 81% are chronic truants.

Surfrider Spirit Sessions By Mike Takahashi There is something truly empowering and uplifting about watching someone get to their feet and ride a wave for the very first time. No matter what else is going on in your life, everything goes on pause while the sea spray chock full of positive ions encase you literally in a field of goodness. Some might say it’s healing. And Dr Kevin Fujimoto director of the Surfrider Spirit Foundation along with a handful of “at risk” youth would agree. It is a beautiful Saturday morning and Hawaii Masters Surf Team members Mike Latronic and Rochelle Ballard are heading in to Waikiki to meet with the kids of the Surfrider Spirit Sessions (SSS). SSS is a non-profit organization that was developed in response to a need expressed by Hawai’i State Family Courts for pro-social youth activities and juvenile detention alternatives for court-involved youth. The program is a unique blend of an adult-youth mentorship program with environmental awareness, Hawaiian cultural education, and surfing lessons that serve as metaphors for life.

When the surfing is done, Dr. Fujimoto goes over the choices the kids made today. Showing up for the session, choosing a wave, deciding to stand up, are all choices that made a positive difference. Need for Services. Surfrider Spirit Sessions is one of the few programs in the state with the skills and resources to successfully motivate and work with the challenging population of youth involved in the Juvenile Justice System. According to the Courts, the youth referred to SSS

Part in parcel with an HMSA do-good project, The Hawaii Masters Surf Team volunteered their time to serve as mentors for this one of a kind program. Mike and Rochelle meet with Dr. Kevin Fujimoto near the Duke statue in Waikiki. Dr. Fujimoto is the head of the program that aims to help kids on the path to delinquency make better decisions and uses surfing as an example of making good choices.

Rochelle immediately steps up to the plate and gives the kids a quick yoga work out. Coincidentally, the SSS has been using a picture of Rochelle as one of the life lessons, “Enjoy the Ocean.” The kids and mentors are stoked, everyone loosens up physically and emotionally. Dr. Fujimoto goes into the message for today about learning how to choose wisely. Everyone hits the water and Mike and Rochelle are helping the kids catch waves. Riding waves must touch some primordial chords of happiness- the smiles on the faces of kids, mentors, Mike and Rochelle are priceless.

Rock

In Dr. Fujimoto’s words: “The Surfrider Spirit Session Program (SSS) incorporates a holistic curriculum to provide skills to empower youth to make smart decisions as they move into adulthood. The SSS core program consists of an 8-week mentor based surf program that uses surfing-based themed activities and lessons to reach these kids on a different level. Teens are paired with volunteer adult surf mentors recruited from the community, including marine biologists, lawyers, journalists, social workers, doctors, teachers and small business owners. Each SSS session includes land-based instruction, surfing or other ocean activities, followed by journaling, environmental science education, Hawaiian culture lessons and beach cleanups.”

Culturally there is significance in coming in and out of the water. It’s a rebirth. And this program allows at-risk teens to experience this cleansing, healthy and happy enjoyment shared with the sea. At the end of the day, supporting this were the smiles and exuberance of the mentors and the kids. And that my friends is what the true Surfrider Spirit Sessions is all about. Surfrider Spirit Sessions needs your support! Check out their website @ surferspirit.org. pau


By Lauren Rolland Don’t let the soft spoken demeanor of Kailani Jones fool you. With older sister Moana paving the path of what’s possible, Kailani is only 13 months (and 3 weeks) behind in age and even closer in the talent bracket. With a couple solid wins under her belt, Kai is training for NSSA and Junior Pro events through a variety of different athletic hobbies. And having V-Land as your front yard doesn’t hurt either when it comes to practicing grounds.

Favorite Board: “I like my 5’4 Pyzel and my Bret Marumoto Savage model.” Sponsors: Of One Sea, North Shore Surf Shop What’s the best part about living and surfing on the north shore of Oahu? You don’t have to drive that far and there’s a lot of really good waves in a small area. It’s different from other places because there are a lot of famous spots here and it’s warm.

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She Rips / Kailani Jones

What challenges you? How do you stay fit for surfing? Big waves. And holding my breath when I fall. It’s something I’m trying to overcome. I work on this by jogging a lot. And cave diving at Sharks Cove. Also, gymnastics, mountain bike riding and heights challenge me. I do gymnastics twice a week in Laie and I can do an aerial on the trampoline and two back hand springs in a row. My favorite place to mountain bike is behind Sunset Elementary School.

Working out and running, gymnastics and surfing a lot. Who is your biggest competition? My sister. And all my friends my age. We (Kai and Moana) are so competitive with everything. Best friends, best enemies. She usually drops in on me, but sometimes she gives me waves.

What motivates you? With a shy smile, this blonde haired surfer girl opened up to Freesurf about future goals, Instagram antics and some hidden talents that really shed some light on the thirteen year-old’s humble personality. Raised on the north shore of Oahu and with a Hawaiian name that translates to “sea and sky” Kailani is working up to a reputable name in the surf industry.

What is your greatest accomplishment in surfing?

Full Name: Kailani Victoria Jones Nickname: KK DOB: 07/13/2000 Age: 13 Stance: regular Home Break: V-Land

Graceful, smooth and precise. I used to longboard a lot when I was little. I’m also trying to develop a style like my sister’s, vertical.

2012 Regional Champion for U12 Shortboard in WSA and semi final Junior Pro HIC Duke Fest at Queens 2013. How would you define your surfing style?

Any friendly rivalries? My sister and good surf. She always tells me lets go surf and she pushes me to do better. Pushes me to charge harder too. What are your near future goals? How about your lifelong goals?

Zoe McDougall and Moana. Pretty much everyone that is my friend. Do you have any hidden talents? Photography and art.

Do really good in NSSA and do good in Junior Pros. This week I have Lahaina NSSA and I think in two weeks I’m going to California to go to the NSSA Opens. My lifelong goals are I’d like to do QS events and graduate from college. Maybe as a fashion designer.

What are your hobbies outside of surfing? Hiking the bunkers and Laie Falls. Also singing, guitar, piano and cooking. I started playing the guitar in December and take lessons in Laie. I also started piano at the


Dawson Jones

She Rips / Kailani Jones

same time I started guitar. I enjoy piano better, but I like them both a lot. What’s your ideal dinner after surfing? Tortellini and pumpkin pie. Who are your favorite people to follow on Instagram? @Moana17 @billabongwomens @justinbieber @selenagomez @taylorswift And all the Pretty Little Liars Instagrams. Follow me @Kailani_Jones Last words for the Freesurf audience? Winters coming, rip it up. pau


Surfrider Spirit Sessions Catching waves and changing lives Rochelle Ballard gave her time and support to Surfrider Spirit Sessions, you should too.

Surfrider Spirit Sessions is an IRS 501(c) (3) Hawai‘i non-profit organization that aims to create and deliver holistic, ocean-based experiential education, mentoring programs and activities that connect, enhance, and fill in the gaps within existing nonprofit programs serving adjudicated, at-risk, or vulnerable youth, and to teach ocean awareness, environmental sensitivity and Hawaiian culture to the general community.

Support us with donations, sponsorships, and mentorship Surf to the Turf Golf Fundraiser Feb 28, 2014 sponsor, volunteer, or play! For more info

surferspirit.org Or Contact Dr. Kev @ (808) 218-8733


Full name: Samuel Kalaniki Gray Hometown: Hanalei, Kauai DOB: August 6th, 2002 Height/Weight: 4’6, 65 lbs. Stance: Regular Sponsors: Billabong, Dakine You may be “smarter than a 5th grader,” and you could probably beat one at arm wrestling too. But I’m willing to bet you can’t out-surf this 11-year-old stud. Kauai-bred Sammy Gray is building up an impressive list of accomplishments for a grade school grom. Toping the list is a 2nd place finish in a Hawaii packed final at the 2013 NSSA National Championships. Hacking and slashing his way onto the podium, Sammy had the final all but won until he was ousted in the final minutes by fellow Billabong team rider Tommy Coleman. Sammy may not have won the event, but he out-surfed some of the most talented groms in the sport. The Pine Tree’s local has more focus and determination than most kids twice his age. Eager to follow in the footsteps of his favorite surfer, Andy Irons, little Sammy has big aspirations. This grommet hopes

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to one day make the World Tour and take home a victory at the coveted Pipeline Masters. And if good friends and friendly rivals like Sage Tuttorow, Ryder Guest and Brodi Sale continue to push this youngster forward, it wouldn’t surprise us one bit. Freesurf had the opportunity to pick this talented up-and-comer’s mind, here’s what Sammy Gray had to say about the finer things in life.

Cats or dogs? Dogs fer sure. Fried or Scrambled? Scrambled. Boxers or Briefs? Boxers. Cool Ranch or Nacho Cheese? Probably Cool Ranch.

Thruster or Quad? Definitely Thruster.

Rap or Rock? Rock.

Smooth or Chunky? Smooth.

Books or Movies? Movies. I watch a lot of movies.

Skittles or M&Ms? M&Ms.

Sunrise or Sunset? Sunset.

Summer or Winter? Winter.

Pepsi or Coke? Coke.

Chess or Checkers? I’m not sure. Chess has kings and castles right? I don’t play either.

Ketchup or Mustard? Ketchup.

Waffles or Pancakes? Pancakes.

Drums or Guitar? Guitar. Cake or Pie?

I like Cake. Mullets or Mohawks? Mohawks. Lion or Tiger? Tiger. Last words for the Freesurf audience? Follow me on Instagram @Sammygray2.

Bryce Johnson

By Sean Reilly

Heff

Grom Report / Sammy Gray


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Environment Welcome to the New Age Radioactive plume from Fukushima approaches Hawaii: but what’s the truth? By Cash W. Lambert After watching John John Florence’s Free to Roam edit that dropped months ago, you have to wonder where the ceiling is for this North Shore prodigy. In the edit, he carves, airs and punts his way through 3 minutes of smooth footage, filmed mostly in rampy beach breaks in Australia. Imagine Dragon’s hit single ‘Radioactive’ as it thumps in the background with the bass line matching John’s carves: “I’m waking up, I feel it in my bones Enough to make my systems blow Welcome to the new age, to the new age. Whoa Oh Oh, I’m radioactive, radioactive.” The sick irony of the edit is this: radioactive isotopes have seeped into the Pacific from a leaky Japanese nuclear power plant, damaged from a tsunami that blasted the island nation in 2011. Oceanic currents picked up the radiation plume and jetted it on an inevitable path toward California, Hawaii, and eventually dispersing into the entire Pacific. Bloggers, scientists, government agencies and conservation groups have been widely debating the issue in recent weeks, some saying that Islanders - including surfers, all that call the North Shore home during the wintertime, and even John John, could be exposed to radiation and it’s cancerous effects. So is this a new age? An age of radioactivity, an age of feeling disease in your bones, where your systems will blow? An age where living in coastal areas and surfing in radioactive muck will produce cancer and other health issues? Henrieta Dulaiova, the Assistant Professor of the Department of Geology and Geophysics (SOEST) at University of Hawaii at Manoa, has heard all rumors and seen the false information. But Dulaiova and her team know the truth of the situation – and want to set the record straight, basing their research from information that Japanese scientists have exposed. “These radioactivities represent very minimal or no health risk to the public, especially when put in perspective with natural sources of radioactivity in the ocean,” Dulaiova states. “We collected water samples between Japan and Hawaii in 2011 and 2012, and in these samples we found some Fukushima derived radiation. However, the levels were diluted in comparison to the original radioactivity at the source. The highest activities for the two major isotopes released we found was 2.8 Bq/m3 of Cs-134 and 5.6 Bq/m3 of Cs-137, which is more than a million times diluted in comparison to the 50 million Bq/m3 measured in Japanese waters discharging from the reactors.” For clarification, scientists measure radiation in becquerels. Dulaiova translates that there is 2.8 becquerels in a cubic meter (m3). Cs-137 is Cesium 137, one of the main isotopes leaked out from the Fukushima plant. It has a half life of 30 years, meaning that it will be decayed by half in perhaps 30 years. Cs-134 is Cesium 134, another isotope that was released from the Fukushima plant, which has a half life of 2 years. Statistically the Cesium 137 poses more of a threat, however most scientific organizations have confirmed it is incredibly diluted. What’s more, this isn’t the first time the Pacific has been exposed to radiation, according to Ken Buessler, a Marine Scientist at Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution in Massachusetts. Buessler spoke at the Medical and Ecological Consequences of the Fukushima Nuclear Accident symposium in March of this year. He explained that 400 Bq/ m3 of radiation was released into the sea from nuclear weapon testing during the 1950s and 1960s. The radiation fallout from the explosion that rocked Chernobyl in Ukraine in 1986 blasted 85 Bq/m3 of radiation into the sea. Fukushima, however, has only released something like 3-30 Bq/m3, tiny in comparison.


“It may take 10 years or longer and be decayed before the released radionuclides get dispersed across the whole North Pacific,” says Dulaiova. “There are several models predicting when the radiation plume would reach Hawaii, and some estimate it as late as 2015. The later the plume arrives the more Cs-134 will decay because of its short half-life (it’s already half of what was released two years ago, not counting the recent leaks). Also, the longer it takes for the plume to arrive in Hawaii, the more dispersed radionuclides will get so we should see more dilution – opposite to some recent papers that were warning about the plume getting more concentrated as it travels across the Pacific.” Critics – mainly bloggers with false information, according to scientists – have argued that the radiation will drastically impact the fishing, because once a fish is exposed to the plume, it will still be radioactive on tourists’ dinner plates in Kona. Says Dulaiova: “Based on our measurements, all we can say is that the plume is significantly diluted. Some models predict that the levels Hawaii would see could be 4 to 5 Bq/m3. And when fish reach a cesium contamination of 100 Bq/kg, the government may consider closing fisheries, at least that is the limit established in Japan.” And for those worried about surfing in a radioactive sea, Dulaiova offers this: “There are no limits for seawater, but drinking water has limit of 300 Bq/kg.” The United States Environmental Protection Agency also disproved the self-proclaimed scientists – otherwise known as bloggers - with hard facts. The EPA uses air monitoring, where more than 100 air monitors measure radiation 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. They also analyze milk, precipitation, and drinking water every three months. According to the EPA, the agency has “accelerated and increased sampling frequency and analysis to confirm that there were no harmful levels of radiation reaching the U.S. from Japan and to inform the public about any level of radiation detected. All of the radiation levels detected by RadNet monitors and sampling have been very low, well below any level of public health concern. And since May, sample analyses have predominantly shown no detections of radionuclides associated with the Japanese nuclear incident.” And if that’s not enough facts, the Hawaii Department of Health (HDOH) decided to make their case. They “do not anticipate any public health effects on beachgoers or seafood safety around the Hawaiian Islands, because water acts as a diluent. While there may be significant quantities of radioactive material released into the sea near the Fukushima reactor site, the massive amount of water in the Pacific Ocean would rapidly dilute and disperse the materials to negligible levels.” The HDOH, agreeing with Dulaiova and SOEST’s findings, explained, “some radioactive isotopes rapidly decay. Given the length of time since the event, the short-lived radionuclides would have decayed to near background levels and therefore pose no health hazard. Although Cesium isotopes have longer half-lives (Cs-134 has a half-life of about two years, Cs-137 a longer half-life of about 30 years), the radionuclides also undergo biological excretion and do not continue to build up in fish forever.” It happens often, either unintentional or intentional: man overreaches his limit. John did. During the last seconds of the ‘Free to Roam’ edit, he attempted a reverse at the Quicksilver Pro at Snapper Rocks, and came down hard on his ankle, suffering ligament damage that would hold him out of the competition for months. Now, he’s back, in his own new age, and arguably better than ever. Perhaps a new age, proposed inadvertently by Imagine Dragons, should take shape. An age where nuclear power plants are fewer and fewer, because with them, and nature’s unpredictability, comes a potential risk for disaster. If Fukushima had been worse, Hawaii residents potentially would have woken up and felt radiation in their bones, enough to literally make their systems blow. And everyone – John John included - would really have been saying “I’m radioactive, I’m...radioactive.” But for now, trustworthy sources – scientists and government agencies - say our Islands, our fish, our beaches, and our way of life, is safe. pau


Culture

“Our Kaka’ako” Rejuvenated By Chris Latronic To some, the town of Kaka‘ako might conjure up images of dull rundown industrial buildings- erected in the threshold buffer zone between the bright social bustling of Ward Centers and the neurotic hustling of downtown Honolulu. I’ve always thought of it as a kind of dead zone. A place to just pass by, since I’ve always believed there was nothing interesting enough to stop and enjoy... Nowadays, that is not the case. Time has changed and so has Kaka’ako. Color, innovation and art beyond anything imaginable now decorate the streets, creating a vibrant culture in this urban world. What was once beaten down and unattractive is now the new modern day cool. The movement hatched about six months ago as Pow Wow Hawaii (a group of 100 artists from Hawaii and across the globe) decided to reinvent Kaka‘ako’s urban landscape. Their idea was to paint 30 murals in and around the buildings of the district, adding color and life to the gray grafittied walls.

As a result, business is enhanced as commercial buses and trolleys now offer tours of the murals, and neighboring communities draw foot traffic like never seen before. Professional photographers and film production crews are also using the creative murals as backdrops for their commercial shoots and films. This was their third and largest project for the talented team of artists. Next on the agenda, Pow Wow Hawaii wants to take the painting festival to Jamaica, Israel and Taiwan, with prospects of bringing public art even further. The burst of creative energy happening in the area is Kaka‘ako’s best quality at the moment, but the industrial town looks forward to even more future developments. Nothing lasts forever. The painted buildings of Kaka‘ako may be replaced with high-rise apartments or upscale retailers in the future. But for the present, public art thrives. Next time you take a trip into town and are looking for something new and interesting, take a walk down the Kaka‘ako neighborhood and experience what a little color can do to brighten up life.


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Industry Notes

Boardstories and Billabong Surf TV Invades Orange Country Surf on the West Coast just got even better. Board stories and Billabong Surf TV will start airing in Southern California on Cox Cable Channel 3 servicing a mega chunk of Orange County.

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“This is a great step for Manulele Inc. and all the surf and beach enthusiasts in Orange County,” remarks executive producer Mike Latronic. “Our production team works so hard and the material is so brilliant. Surfing truly is a reflection of stoke and sunshine and we’re glad that we can now translate this to the good people of Southern California.” The programming will feature prime time slots at 8:30pm on Wednesdays. But be sure to check your local listings.

Cozy Up To Fall With Your Favorite Fleece Late night beach strolls can be a bit chilly as winter draws near. Don’t get left in the cold! Cozy up to your next beach bonfire in a brand new fleece from our friends at Honolua. Shop the fleeces at honoluasurf.com.

Kaiser’s New Sponsors Kaiser Auberlen, an 8-year-old micro grom from the North Shore of Oahu is now sponsored by Rip Curl and Local Motion. Congrats Kaiser!

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Banzai Bonanza Banzai Sushi Bar will be celebrating its 10-year anniversary this November. The best sushi bar on the North Shore will commemorate the occasion on Saturday, November 9th. Boogie on down to the North Shore Marketplace to celebrate with the Banzai crew and a half dozen of KTUH’s best DJ’s. Fill your belly with top-notch sushi and dance the night away. It’s sure to be a great time and we hope to see you there!

Noelani Studios Offers Free Classes in October Noelani Studios, Haleiwa’s NEW Lifestyle and Yoga Boutique, welcomes all of the surf visitors to the North Shore. Noelani Studios will be offering FREE yoga and dance classes to all customers October 1925th. Memberships available throughout the winter. Come and try out their classes to strengthen and rejuvenate your soul!

Quizon Qualifies Local gurfer Alessa Quizon has qualified for the 2014 Association of Surfing Professionals’ Women’s World Championship Tour. The 19-year-old Makaha resident will embark on next year’s elite international circuit in March alongside her close friends and fellow Billabong team riders, Laura Enever and Courtney Conlogue. Quizon turned heads in 2012 with a win at the Billabong World Juniors at Burleigh Heads, followed up with a third place finish at the Billabong Pro Rio WCT event as a wildcard. She appeared to be on a fast track to qualification last year until an ankle injury set her back in the ratings. After a full recovery she has come back strong and will end the 2013 season ranked fourth on the Women’s World Qualifying Series. A coveted slot on tour will be a dream come true for this Westside shredder, Congratulations Alessa!

You want to be a world Champion? There’s an app for that! If you have a smart phone, you can surf like Joel Parkinson. Well, you can try, at least. Parko and Wes Berg (surf trainer and pro Ironman) are releasing the world’s first mobile training app. The product of a five-year partnership between the two athletes, the programs give surfers a step-by-step guide to improving your surfing. The app has training programs customized to each stop of the world tour, with video demo’s and instructions from Parkinson and Berg. The app allows surfers to pick which type of wave they want to train for, and has over 150 surfing specific exercises, most of them with a focus on core strength, leg power, and balance. The iPhone app – Joel Parkinson Pro Surf Training – has now been released via the App Store and is available for download. 104

Kimi Makes History Kimi Werner (that crazy girl who swims with tiger sharks for fun) was inducted into Hawaii’s Freediving Spearfishing Wall of Fame last month. On September 15th, Kimi achieved a lifelong goal and joined the likes of Hawaii’s freediving and spearfishing legends. Congrats Kimi!


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Industry Notes Women’s WCT Event at Trestles for 2014 The ASP announced that there will be a new stop on the 2014 Women’s World Championship Tour. The best ladies in the surfing world will be given their chance to light up Lowers. The event, scheduled to run in conjunction with the men’s Hurley Pro at Trestles, will take place next September and will bring the elite ASP Top 17 to the famed cobblestone point break of Lower Trestles at San Onofre State Beach for the first time in history. “Lower Trestles is one of the most high-performance waves on the planet and we’re absolutely thrilled that the world’s best female surfers will be here in 2014,” Jessi MileyDyer, ASP Women’s Tour Manager, said. “The addition of this venue to the women’s schedule is indicative of ASP management’s commitment to enhancing the women’s tour and placing these women in excellent waves. I’m excited to see what the ASP Top 17 do out here in 2014.”

 The announcement confirms ASP Management’s commitment to enhancing women’s professional surfing. “This is an excellent first step,” Paul Speaker, ASP International CEO, said. “I truly believe that the women surfing at the elite level of competition are some of the most inspiring athletes and individuals I have ever come across. Providing them with a stable and quality platform upon which to perform is a crucial part of the ASP’s DNA moving forward. We’re very appreciative of the collaboration with Hurley, IMG and California State Parks on achieving this. This is the first of many exciting things to come.”

Moody Gets Married Congratulations to local pro Sean Moody and his gorgeous wife Mele MacLaughlin. The lovely couple tied the knot last month on a picturesque September afternoon at a beachfront residence on the North Shore of Oahu. Freesurf sends their best wishes to the beautiful newlyweds.

Jack Johnson Teams Up With Food Day The third annual Food Day will commence October 24 with thousands of events in all 50 states. Food Day is aimed at promoting healthy, affordable and sustainably produced food. Local singer-songwriter Jack Johnson will be teaming up with Food Day on his From Here To Now To You tour. At each of his venues, Johnson will celebrate Food Day by introducing his fans to local and national nonprofit organizations that work on sustainable agriculture, food access, farmto-school projects, and other food policy issues. In September and October, at each of Johnson’s 25 theater shows across Europe and North America, fans will be encouraged to connect with non-profits in their communities to support local and sustainable food and to celebrate Food Day. Johnson will make it back to Hawaii to celebrate Food Day at home, where his own Kokua Hawaii Foundation is coordinating a series of events with local chefs, farmers and schools to celebrate Hawaii’s unique food culture.


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Industry Notes

The Butterfly Effect World Tour Lands and Expands Water women from all over the world have united to participate in the 2013 Butterfly Effect World Tour. This grass-roots event that started with only a handful of women on the north shore of Maui in 2007 has grown into an international water women’s movement, surpassing all expectations than ever imagined. The Butterfly effect strives to empower women and communities through non-competitive water sport events, beach cleanups, community give back sessions, guest speakers, food, gear, music, and unique cultural gifts from local sponsors. Participants demonstrate their individual athletic abilities while celebrating their accomplishments as a united group. The 2013 tour was the largest to date, and featured stops in Switzerland, Hawaii, Morocco, the Dominican Republic, Italy and a final stop in Tahiti this October. So far, the Butterfly Effect has raised over $8,00 and has removed 100’s of bags of rubbish off beaches from countries all over the world. While in Maui the event reached new heights, gathering a record number of over 350 women stand up paddling together.

‘Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau’ Eddie Aikau is a Hawaiian hero: pioneer big-wave rider, lifeguard, peacemaker and traditional voyager. Last month at Surfer The Bar, his younger brother, lifeguard partner, and closest friend Clyde Aikau joined the likes of film producer Paul Taublieb to speak out about the man behind the legend. Clyde and Paul sat down with Talk Story host Jodi Wilmott to discuss Eddie’s life, spirit, achievements and ultimate contributions that went far beyond big wave riding and deep into the heart of Hawaiian culture. Following the Talk Story, Surfer screened ‘Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau.’ The film’s premiere was a huge success. Surfer was packed to the brim with an audience captivated by the instant classic. ‘Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau’ chronicles the remarkable life and times of the late Eddie Aikau, the legendary Hawaiian big wave surfer, pioneering lifeguard and ultimately doomed crew member of the Polynesian voyaging canoe Hokulea. With its rich combination of archival imagery, dramatic reenactments, contemporary interviews and meticulously researched historical source material, ‘Hawaiian’ is a compelling examination of the tragic decline and extraordinary rebirth of the Hawaiian culture as personified by a native son whose dynamic life and heroic death served as inspiration to an entire spiritual movement.

Freesurf partners with Van’s Triple Crown of Surfing Look for Freesurf’s next issue, the official Vans Triple Crown of surfing program guide. We’re covering everything from the Triple Crown roster (with an autograph page) to details on the events and three locations, exclusive interviews, highlights, statistics and more. Available all all three Triple Crown events, in mailboxes from Kahuku to Waialua and at all other regular Freesurf pick up locations, this is going to be the issue that kicks off winter in Hawaii!

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Calendar of Events October 19th - 20th & 26th - 27th North Shore Menehune Surf Contest, Ali‘i Beach Park, Haleiwa

October 19th – 20th HSA, Straight Outs, Oahu

October 19th Bethany & Alana Keiki Classic, Presented by Hanalei Surf Co & Rip Curl, Pinetrees, Hanalei Bay

October 20th MCBH Dash and Splash, 500m/5k, MCBH Kaneohe

October 29th November 10th: HIC Pro, Sunset Beach

November 2nd The Color Run Hawaii, 5k, Kalaeloa, Barbers Point

November 2nd – 3rd HSA, Renicks, Oahu

November 12th – 23rd

Help Buttons’ Battle Cancer

Reef Hawaiian Pro, Ali‘i Beach Park, Haleiwa

Hawaiian surfing legend, Montgomery “Buttons” Kaluhiokalani, has been diagnosed with lung cancer. While Buttons fights for his life his medical bills continue to stack up. He does not have health insurance and has ten children, two of them under the age of five. Friends of Buttons have set up a web page to raise money to assist him and his family with medical and living expenses. Our thoughts and prayers are with you Uncle Buttons, you can win this battle.

November 24th December 6th: Vans World Cup of Surfing, Sunset Beach

November 30th Swim, Paddle, Run, Maui Ocean Challenge, Kihei

December 8th

To donate or leave a message for Buttons, go to www.gofundme.com/41uz7s

Latronic

December 20th: Billabong Pipe Masters, Banzai Pipeline

December 1st - February 28th Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau, Waimea Bay

December 8th – 20th Billabong Pipe Masters

December 14th – 15th & 21st and 22nd HSA, Makaha Beach Park

GMAC Screens His New Film World record holder Garrett McNamara debuted his new film ‘The North Canyon: Nazare Calling’ this September at the Mill Valley Surf Film Festival. The film gives a behind the scenes look leading up to an incredible ride, told by a group of people who helped shed light on one of the biggest waves in the world.

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Last Look


It’s no secret that the north shore has always been surfing’s photo booth. Kalani Chapman and Kalani Robb, exploring new angles. Photo: Chris Latronic



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