FRAY MAGAZINE: Rogue Edition

Photographed by: Jasmin Wong

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Walk of Shame – Alex Ober Stacked – Xandra Chen & Anika Kewalramani Dystopian – Erick Buendia Stellar – Cate Baldwin Visual Manifestos: What the Fashion of the ‘Rogues’ of America’s Past Can Tell us About Our Present – Liam Dorrien Frontier – Mikail Haroon

Teenage Sport – Sophie Clapacs Subverting Subversion–Adi Lurvey & Jingling Liu IRE–Tasmiah Akter Fashion or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying About and Loving Microtrends – Mia Foster Mossiah – Lena Weiman & Cecilia Dondorful-Amos Collect / Renew – Emma Steckline Unbound – Alexis Gerwe Fatal Femmes – Caroline Johnson

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Lauren Berthoumieux

Kofi Agyei-Yeboah

Jacob Carton

STACKED

Ayer Richmond

Isa Miranda

Noor Valvani

Swaraj Rai

Will Lee

Emmett Levy

a video project by Anika Kewalramani and Xandra Chen

Ula Pranevicius

Xandra Chen

Anika Kewalramani

STELLAR

Model: Stella Tannen Director / Editor: Cate Baldwin Photographer: Lilly Hoefflin

frontier by mikail haroon

creative direction by mikail haroon photography by owen forbes modeling by anika kewalramani, sita mcguire, and ricky liu

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With Cleo Riley, Darius Nabers, and Reese Chahal

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Teenage Sport Sophie Clapacs

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Subverting Subversion

By Adi Lurvey & Jingling Liu

“Rogue” fashion allows people to explore fashion as a way to subvert the established social order, expanding modes of expression through fashion. But how much can the people who benefit from the world's social order truly subvert it? Rogue fashion, for rich white people, often entails appropriating designs from other cultures or elevating working-class functional aesthetics, as a form of subversion. When rich white people take these styles and market them or try to bring them into their norm, they undermine any sense of subversion by making them highend.

Rogue fashion for the wealthy has a variety of different looks, but this past year the tabi shoe design took off considerably. Tabi shoes are a style of footwear with a split between the big toe and the rest of the toes, reminiscent of a hoove. Though these Tabi’s now go for upwards of $1000, their inspiration, Jika-tabi shoes, have been commonly used as footwear for construction workers, farmers, gardeners, and other laborers in Japan.

Tabis

Jaka-Tabi shoes allowed workers to be able to grip the ground while walking, allowing for more delicate and dexterous movements while simultaneously still being able to protect the foot. Jika-Tabi’s have been made out of a variety of different materials to individual worker’s needs; some are made purely out of rubber and are high kneed to best suit workers in rice fields and wet or muddy conditions, while others are made out of cloth and are more commonly used for exercise.

These shoes began their rise to fame in 1988 when Maison Martin Margiela, a luxury French designer, debuted the style in his first show.

Margiela claims the Tabi “captures the avant-garde and insubordinate spirit of the Maison,” While the Maison claims the spirit of subversion, there is nothing inherently subversive about this Japanese shoe design other than its lack of prevalence in Western culture prior. By bringing Tabi’s into the mainstream as something that is both meant to be subversive and also inaccessible due to its status as high fashion, there is no doubt that Tabis have lost most of their original functionality. A style that initially started as working-class functional wear became appropriated by highend fashion designers, and has become neither functional nor accessible.

Denim

This trend extends beyond just Tabi’s and even to America’s quintessential pants—jeans. Jeans were initially adopted as the primary workwear of western cowboys, farmers, and railway workers in the US due to their unique durability and functional design. Denim eventually morphed into a symbol of youth rebellion movements, early punks would tear their jeans as a form of expressing their anger towards capitalism and corporate greed, starting the first designs of distressed denim. Ironically, corporations are selling jeans pre-distressed and pre-ripped, completely undermining their original meaning; these mass corporations benefit from the exploitation of the working class.

As the roots of these trends get covered up by clothing brands, the trends morph into clothing corporations simply mimicking working-class appearances.

Brands like JNCOs, Diesel, True Religion, and even more commercial stores like Urban Outfitters all take inspiration from lower-class fashion trends and market to upper and middleclass suburban teens who have never had to experience the reality of being lower or workingclass. When upper or middleclass teens use jeans as a mode of rebellion without understanding these systemic concepts they appropriate lower class aesthetics they equivalent their general teen angst with the experience of classism.

Couture The romanticization of poverty extends to the extreme in high fashion through mimicking the look of homelessness. Couture fashion designers for Dior have professed they take their inspiration from the homeless people whom they encounter on the street, as well as other companies like Yeezeys or N. Hollywood describes trying to mimic homelessness in their runway shows for NYFW. Rather than these designers making an effort to talk to the people they’re taking inspiration from, they simply observe their attire. The homeless aren’t trying to be fashionable. They’re trying to survive, and designers reduce the purpose of their clothing to an aesthetic choice. People who are homeless have to appear housed to attend things like job interviews or more professional settings, whereas people wearing the “homeless aesthetic” can put on and take off their clothes at will. These designers seem to display an incredible lack of empathy for the homeless and a lack of self-awareness about their social position.

While it is possible to use “rogue” styles as a form of protest or rebellion, it is important to reflect on what is being rebelled against, and through what modes. Rogue fashion often entails rich people taking lower class aesthetics, ignoring the purpose behind the clothing, and reducing the realities of existing as lower class in a classist society—boiling it down to something that can be romanticized on a Pinterest board.

Photographer: Erick Buendia Editors: Erick Buendia & Tasmiah Akter Models: Isha Bah, Dikshya Kuikel, Priyanshu Pokhrel Makeup: Lauren Schweitzer Produced by: Victoria Cornejo

by Mia Foster

COLLECT/RENEW

Creative Director: Emma Steckline Photographer: Jenny Ongele

Makeup/Styling: Jazmin Alvarez Produced by: Victoria Cornejo

Models: Hazel Allison-Way, Tanvi Navile, Felicity Guevara, Jo Harkless, Will Lee

Alexis Gerwe

Fray Magazine

FATAL FEMMES THE MISANDRY PROBLEM

ROCK N’ ROLL ROGUES REDEFINE THE GENRE One girl group has risen to claim power over the punk rock scene.

Hide your husbands and boyfriends, the MANEATERZ draw in hundreds of adoring groupies to each performance with a reputation that might be too X-rated even for us. The girls quickly reached the top of the rock charts with their raw talent and scandalous performance, and have drawn in quite the loyal fanbase. When asked about the constant droves of men flocking to their performances, one member stated “bring ’em on, the more the merrier.”

Interviews of groupies found at a MANEATERZ concert explore whether or not it’s an issue that this band of hot women are objectifying their mass amounts of devotee men. A groupie found waiting for the drummer outside of the bathroom states, “Personally, I love getting objectified”.

CREATIVE DIRECTOR: CAROLINE JOHNSON | PHOTOGRAPHER: MILES URBAN | PRODUCED BY: VICTORIA CORNEJO

PICTURED: HARMONY HOOGS, MAE COHEN, REY ALVAREZ, CECELIA DONDORFUL-AMOS, GINEVRA GILMORE, BETO VALDEZ, JAY WATSON, WILL LEE, NOLAN LEWIS, REX HECHTER

Jasmin Wong Erick Buendia Kofi McFadgion Isha Bah Dikshya Kuikel Meghan Noe Chloe Goorman Melanie Tejada Alex Ober Lucas Buu-hoan Zachary Berkenkotter Aisyah Nurriza Maya Yanowitch Priya Devavaram Mirembe McDuffie-Thurmond Pazu Eli Marcus

Alexis Gerwe Jack Siegel Emma Steckline Jenny Ongele Tanvi Navile Hazel Allison-Way Felicity Guevara Will Lee

Jo Harkless Jazmin Alvarez Victoria Cornejo San De Min Quinn Frankel Ali Eckstein Liam Dorrien Caroline Johnson Mae Cohen Cecelia Dondorful-Amos Ginevra Gilmore Harmony Hoogs Rey Alvarez Beto Valdez Ben Hsu Nolan Lewis Jay Watson

COLLABORATORS

Ryan Villano Warren Little Yumiko Takahashi Fia Jones Mark Vinokur Nathaniel Atkin Samir Cerrato Rex Hechter Elijah Davis Emmanuel Chery Elias Owen Jude Gravois Anika Kewalramani Xandra Chen Lauren Berthoumieux Kofi Agyei-Yeboah Jacob Carton Noor Valvani Swaraj Rai Emmett Levy Ula Pranevicius

Ayer Richmond Isa Miranda Cleo Riley Darius Nabers Lena Weiman Evan Hsu Gabby Blanco Jingling Liu Adi Lurvey Mikail Haroon Owen Forbes Ricky Liu Sita McGuire Alexis Gerwe Carter Appleyard Eva Gamboa Tasmiah Akter Isha Bah Dikshya Kuikel Lauren Schweitzer Mia Foster Reese Chahal Sophie Clapacs Cate Baldwin