UK Â£6.95 US $18.99 Issue 17
RESPECT YOURSELF 1
CONTENTS FIRST 07 Editor’s letter
FASHION 10 Humanature: Land Art
A dialogue between nature and woman inspired by Christo and Jeanne-Claude artworks
22 Do you want to play? Start Explore the 70s/80s era as it was a game-magazine
34 My cheat meal
A journey of fashion-food from a supermarket to garbage
ART&CULTURE 48 The Handmaid’s Dress
An artistic contamination between Fashion and TV series
50 Donna Ferrato’s Women How many women know their power?
52 My Adidas since 1986
The beginning of the Hip hop look and the love for sneakers
This issue is named “Respect yourself” because I wanted to create a magazine which respect myself, my vision, my style. This is a result of months of work and commitment. It was not easy at all, I really had to push my boundaries but I did not lost my enthusiasm. Sometime I felt desperate, anxious, in a bad mood but thinking of my goal it helped me to go on. At the beginning we choose which kind of magazine to work with and I chose Hunger because it is a magazine full of vibrant colors and brightness. All of its issues are dedicated to some young people involved in music, cinema, obviously in fashion and in photography. It is fresh, creative, pop, but studied and well-nished. Also it talks about current topics for example genderless, sexual identity, feminism, politics, mental health, using a great graphic and illustration, mixing with high-fashion, art, music, cinema. Then we started to think and to structure each editorial, Womenswear, Menswear and Still-life, and we had three themes to realize “Humanature”, “Last days of Disco, New days of glamour. What happen between 70s and 80s”, and “Unconventional and hybrid shapeshifter”. I did not have ideas, it was really to start with a blank page. So I began my research to go deep in these themes to give my personal point of view. I created an artbook with the main idea and the inspirations. But it was not done, the development of the projects was still going on. In fact day by day, month after month I continue to work on these editorial and I organized three fashion shooting. Maybe for who is not in the fashion area could seem simple, but it is not like this. You need to write tons of mails to showrooms, model agencies, find photographers, make-up artists and a location. I went around through the city to pick up the clothes with a luggage and three big bags really heavy. A lot of unexcepted events can happen and you have to manage everything and find a solution rapidly. Then after it, you need to bring and merge everything in a coherent and consistent magazine using a proper layout and the right graphic. It was stressful… a lot, I swear. But in the end I did it, and this is the result. Seeing it realized is one of the greatest satisfactions. I am really proud of it.
10 - 45
HUMANATURE: LAND ART DO YOU WANT TO PLAY? START MY CHEAT MEAL
HUMANATURE: LAND ART
photography DANYYL POCHTAR fashion editor FRANCESCA MINARDI hair and make-up ANNA MARIA PALLADINO
models KATERINA KARPOVA @THEWOLVESMODEL dress NIHIL LAB SARTORIALE jewelry GIULIANA MANCINELLI BONAFACCIA
dress NIHIL LAB SARTORIALE jewelry GIULIANA MANCINELLI BONAFACCIA
[this page] dress NIHIL LAB SARTORIALE [opposite page] top & trousers NIHIL LAB SARTORIALE jewelry GIULIANA MANCINELLI BONAFACCIA
ichotomy (from Greek διχοτομία) means the division in two parts and it is exactly what human beings are: one part of nature and the other part culture. This woman was born from nature, but she can’t be completely part of it because of her rational mind. This editorial was inspired by Land Art which is an artistic movement from the 60s and 70s usually associated with the United States. The main characteristic is to expand the boundaries of the typical frame of the painting and use the Earth as canvas. So it consists of transfering minimal scheme in a large environmental context.
top MANTÙ trousers NIHIL LAB SARTORIALE jewelry GIULIANA MANCINELLI BONAFACCIA
Many artists took part in this movement as Walter de Maria, Michael Heizer, Robert Smithson (with his famous artwork, the Spiral Jetty). But the main artist who inspired this fashion editorial was the couple, Christo and Jeanne Claude. They created artwork by using long meters of fabric to make us perceive the whole environment with new eyes and new consciousness. Even if their artworks do not last for a long time, their effect is still present in the public after many years later because it is so fascinated by the majesty of those installations. I wanted to use the same method of the artists’ couple, using clothes with bright colors and minimal look to create a relationship between nature and the woman. The transparent fabrics want to represent the same material that they use in their artworks, wrapping the model and creating linear shapes. In each look we can find an association with some of their works, for example, the red look has some similarities with “Valley Curtain” which was in Rifle, Colorado in 1970/72; the fuchsia with
the color is matching with “Surrounded Islands” in Biscayne Bay, Greater Miami, Florida in 1980/83; the blue one wants to recreate the same effect as the “Running Fence” in Sonoma and Marin Counties, California in 1972/76. Some other are unexpectedly identical with the installations, not only for the colors, but also for the shapes and the model’s poses: the white look is almost alike with “Wrapped Reichstag” in Berlin in 1971/95; the orange one is matching “The Floating piers” in Lake Iseo in 2014/16 and the yellow one is so similar to “Wrapped Walk Ways” in Jacob Loose Park, Kansas City, Missouri in 1977/78.
“All our work is about freedom. Nobody can buy our projects. Nobody can sell tickets to experience our projects. Freedom is the enemy of possession and possession is equal to permanence. That’s why our projects cannot remain and must go away forever. Our projects are ‘Once-in-a-lifetime’ and ‘Once upon a time’”. Both of the makeup sum up the idea of the editorial with bright colors and linear shapes. Also, the geometric
jewelry is in line with the fashion shooting. Moreover I wanted to homage my hometown, Mantua, which was the location of the editorial. Mantua is placed in Padan Plain, a surface near river Po and characteristic of Northern Italy. The beauty of this city is to be surrounded by three lakes creating a magical atmosphere. It is matching perfectly with some of the locations of Christo and Jeanne Claude’s artworks and the Land Art. Plus all the clothes were from two Mantuan brands, Mantù and Nihil lab Sartoriale. In conclusion, as Giacomo Leopardi, an Italian famous writer said: “Reason is the enemy of all greatness: reason is the enemy of nature: nature is great, reason is small. I mean that it will be more or less difficult for a man to be great the more he is governed by reason.” ■
See more of Christo and Jeanne Claude at christojeanneclaude.net
dress NIHIL LAB SARTORIALE
top NIHIL LAB SARTORIALE skirt MANTÃ™ jewelry GIULIANA MANCINELLI BONAFACCIA shoes STUART WEITZMAN
photography DANYYL POCHTAR fashion editor FRANCESCA MINARDI make-up MANYU WANG models CAO @CREWMODELMANAGEMENT fashion assistant TATEVIK AVETISYAN
Padded jacket BONSAI T-shirt KATHARINE HAMNETT
Talking Heads - True Stories pp. 24/25
Devo - Oh no itâ€™s Devo pp. 26/27
You can put your lipstick all over my designer jeans I’ll be a video for you If you turn my dial You can cash my check if you go down to the bank
We’re in cities at night and we got time on our hands So leave the driving to us And it’s the real thing And you’re rolling In the blender With me
• I was born in a house with the television always on Guess I grew up too fast And I forgot my name
And I can love you Like a color TV Now love is here C’mon and try it I got love for sale Got love for sale
[this page] padded jacket and trousers BONSAI [opposite page] padded jacket HENRI LLYOD polo LACOSTE backpack INVICTA
raincoat LETIZIA RIZZO knitwear and trousers BONSAI belt bag NIKE
So you’re living under the gun Circumstances have you on the run A doctor frowns, you feel bad Take this! You’ve just been had! Don’t you lose it - now listen to us:
or dreams come true Mucho work minus play Tension mounts in a twisted face Dark clouds in a crystal ball Tension mounts in a foreign place
The screw turns, someone calls: Time out for fun! Time out for fun! So you’re living under the gun
• Hello This is Devo We would like to say Things go both ways New ideas, stupid moves Nightmares
Technology influences us more than we are aware of, and today it may be our mind controller, with social media we have a distort vision of the reality. The perfect example that shows us this unhealthy relationship is Black Mirror, a British tv series that describes our modern society and the consequences of the new technologies with a dystopic point of view. In 2018 it was released from Black Mirror an interactive movie called Bandersnatch, in which the viewer can choose between two options and have a different end of the story. It was set in 1984 and talks about a young programmer who wants to adapt a fantasy novel into a videogame. This was the main inspiration for the editorial, in fact the reader of the magazine can choose which album or artist prefers and which game to play with the VR. I wanted to create a connection between the past using the Walkman and the audiocassettes of the Talking Heads and the Devo and the present using the VR. In the layout I put some lyrics of “Love For Sale” by Talking Heads and “Time Out For Fun” by Devo to evoke the songs, while for the VR section I create graphically two different effects as they were proper videogames.
adventure” books (CYOA). There were different genres, but the majority were based on the story of science fiction, mystery, and fantasy. This editorial was inspired by the mood of Sci-fi movies and the first videogames during the 70s and 80s. For example in the cinemas there were Blade Runner, Star Wars, Aliens, Back to Future and in the games rooms there were Space Invaders, Pac Man, Tetris, Galaga… Recently a lot of movies and tv series inspired by or set during the 80s were launched. Not only Bandersnatch but also an American web television series called Stranger Things and Blade Runner 2049 which is the sequel of the original movie of 1982. I was also influenced by the Vaporwave which is a microgenre of electronic music from the 2010s inspired by the 80s culture and aesthetic. Regarding the fashion part is based on streetwear. Looking at the trend from S/S 2019 and F/W 2019 there are a lot of references from the 80s, blocks of bright neon colors from Prada to MSGM, from Vêtements to Off-White. I choose to use not only new clothes but also vintage ones for creating a mix between the two periods. To sum up we need to be more aware of our decisions and do not let other people choose for ourselves. In the end I report a quote from Colin Ritman, one of the characters of Bandersnatch. ■
This method of choosing between See more of Bandersnatch at netflix.com two elements is not only connected to Bandersnatch but it is the base of the gamebooks which were famous between the 70s and 80s and also they were called “Choose your own
“There are messages in every game. Like Pac-Man. Do you know what PAC stands for? P-A-C: “program and control.” He’s Program and Control Man the whole things a metaphor, he thinks he’s got free will but really he’s trapped in a maze, in a system, all he can do is consume, he’s pursued by demons that are probably just in his own head, and even if he does manage to escape by slipping out one side of the maze, what happens? He comes right back in the other side.”
outwear, trousers and hat BONSAI polo ROMEO GIGLI shoes SALOMON
re you sure to live in the “real” reality, or are you just living in a game played by someone else? You need to choose your own adventure and not just be manipulated by a mind controller. Don’t be a puppet, choose now.
Doppler Effect pp. 30/31
Poly Geometric Effect pp. 32/33
sweater and trousers BONSAI hat ZARA
MY CHEAT MEAL
photography DANYYL POCHTAR fashion editor FRANCESCA MINARDI
skirt ZARA black shoes GIAMPAOLO VIOZZI bag GUESS shoes GUGLIELMO ROTTA bras INTIMISSIMI
bras INTIMISSIMI bag GUESS shoes GUGLIELMO ROTTA earrings VINTAGE
bag GUESS shoes GUGLIELMO ROTTA
bras INTIMISSIMI earrings VINTAGE
FA SHION RECIPE How to cook gold pasta with precious pearls
n this special issue, Chef Haute Couture, three Michelin stars, will give her recipe to cook Gold pasta with Pearls.
You will need these ingredients:
100g golden chains pasta 65g fresh pearls 1 tablespoon Missoni Eau de Parfum 1 sprinkle Moschino Funny perfume 2 drops Dior nail polish 1 knob Mac lipstick
She will recommend to use fresh ingredients. For the cooking process, Chef Haute Couture will give you some directions: For Step 1: Boil the water, and add the pasta. Cook it for 11 minutes. Following Step 2: While the pasta is cooking create the sauce. Polish the pearls and seasoning them with Missoni and Moschino perfumes. To prevent the food from stiking use a knob of Mac lipstick and sautĂŠ the pearls for some minutes to make them shiny. Finishing with Step 3: Add the sauce to the pasta and serve it hot. The dish would be delicious accompanied by a Enrico Coveri seasoned cheese. She suggests for Wine Pairing an Italian Canasta tie really smooth and cool.
We are living in a materialistic world, we are addicted to shop, we are shopaholic. Our identity is no more only our persona, but also the way we dress up, what we eat and which brand we buy. Food is like fashion, we are seduced by them following the trends, seasonality and hype. But we do not think about how much we waste and pollute and we have to be aware. From the supermarket our main character is buying fashion-food not for necessity but for oniomania, a compulsive desire to buy things. The shopping basket is overflowing of things, but she is not satisfied yet, she would like to buy more, more and more. She is so fascinated by her groceries shopping that at home she sets up it as it was an artwork or a sculpture. The sparkling of the plastic, the sound of the polyester packaging between her hands, the obsession for the labeling. Looking carefully at the labels actually are ironic and playful. They want to create a parallelism between the actual fashion item and the food, for example a pair of shoes that can help you to feel like a mermaid because it supposed to be two raw fish, or a nude bra which seems to look like chicken breasts. She feels hungry and she wants to eat. Following the new recipe posted by a famous and trendy chef she cooks for
herself a golden pasta with fresh pearls. She will take a beautiful picture for Instagram but actually she is not going to eat it because it would ruin her body shape. So she throws everything away because she does not care, the only thing she cares about it is the appearance on social media. In the end what remains it is just a bunch of plastic, accessories used and thrown away. From the richness, the glamour and the fanciness we have only garbage, bin, and nothing else. We should be more aware of what we buy, we consume and we waste. Changing the world it is not just demonstration in the street, sharing sustainable posts, it is an everyday commitment to respect the rubbish collection, recycle the most possible and buy with awareness. â–
yellow tie ENRICO COVERI blue and purple tie CANASTA pearl necklaces LUISA SPAGNOLI earrings VINTAGE
bras INTIMISSIMI bag GUESS shoes GUGLIELMO ROTTA tie CANASTA scarf EMILIO PUCCI
48 - 53
THE HANDMAIDâ€™S DRESS HOW MANY WOMEN KNOW THEIR POWER? MY ADIDAS SINCE 1986
THE HANDMAID’S DRESS The artistic contamination between Fashion and TV series
hen Anne Crabtree, costume designer of the recent TV series “The Handmaid’s Tale”, thought about the costumes for the characters, she certainly did not predict that the Fall Winter 2019 womenswear collection of Valentino would contain significant parallels with the TV series. The Handmaid’s Tale reflects a dystopian world: after years of the women’s empowerment, because of the II American Civil War, women started to be perceived as procreation subjects, merely different from slaves. The reason behind women’s servitude is a well established totalitarian government in the US, called Gilead, ruled by divine law following an extremist interpretation of the Bible. This regime began due to many problems in American society such as environmental pollution, demographic decline and sterility, and thanks to military forces it has imposed its power. In this society women cannot read, work, own property or manage money. The worst condition is the one of Handmaids, who are fertile women forced to give birth and bear children for elite couples. They are psychologically and physically violated by their masters and they have
been deprived of freedom. To express the difference among status classes, they use the colors of their clothing. So each type of character wears different colors: Handmaids wear red which indicated fertility and the menstrual blood, Wives wear blue related to the Virgin Mary’s garments, Marthas, the housekeepers, named after the biblical figure of the patron saint of housewives and maids, wear green. Additionally, the Aunts, who are trainers and supervisors of Handmaids, wear brown (almost referring to Nazi’s uniforms), and the Eyes, a sort of military police who has to repress rebellions and oversee the population, wear black which is a symbol of death and threat.
The white is the color of innocence and pureness and the handmaid wear it in the headgear, called “the wings”, which hides them from the world and wrapping in a modest bonnet. Pier Paolo Piccioli, Maison Valentino creative director, has created a white hat that resembles the Handmaid’s wings. Moreover, this pure color is also used when Handmaids give birth to a child. The use of color is extremely important and the choice was done precisely. Valentino not only used this color palette for his collection: red, black, green, blue, white and brown, but also linear and simple shapes in a more elegant and chic silhouette.
Pier Paolo has created a beautiful red A-line dresses with a diagonal scarf which is wrapped around it, a floorlength white gown and a black cape dress. Many garments are embellished with flowery prints and embroidery, especially the coats and the seethrough dresses. The flowers are another strong symbol in Handmaid’s Tale which is connected to fertility, birth, and beauty. Especially the red tulips represent the Handmaid while the blue irises represent symbolically the Wives. In real life, in American streets, outside Capitol in Washington, the Handmaid dress became a symbol of female rebellion. They were used by women who were protesting for health-care’s cuts and for marches around the US. Anne Crabtree says: “That is a huge honor, to know that women are able to express themselves wholly and separately and be inspired is absolutely bigger than me, and bigger than any expectation I would have thought could come of this kind of career and work”. ■
Season four of The Handmaid’s Tale is released in the US in summer 2020
DONNA FERRATO’S WOMEN How many women know their power?
or ages, being a woman has been difficult. It took years of fighting, protesting to be heard and to have equal rights as men. But even after this empowerment, in some countries women still do not have the same fair treatment. Meanwhile, in others nations, even with same rights they have to be submitted to some social rules which support discrimination against women. We are put under stereotypes a lot in our life. We play a certain character, the one of daughter, sister, wife, mother. In Middle Ages women could only have just three roles in the society “virgo, vidua et mater”, in translation from latin - “virgin, widow and mother.” Women are simply female human being, we’re perceived as the Other. As Simone de Beauvoir said: “Humanity is male, and man defines woman, not in herself, but in relation to himself; she is not considered an autonomous being”. We have to do what women usually do: we need to put makeup on, dress up well, be composed, drinking tea, be interested in superficial matters. But this is just a fake mask which someone forces us to put on. What is underneath this pinky flowery surface? Sufferance, pain, pressure, obligations, in major part created by some “social rules”. Natalia Ginzburg, an Italian famous writer, said in an essay called “Discorso sulle donne” (translated, Speech about
women), that women have a bad habit to fall down in a well caught by an awful melancholy. Any kind of woman with or without children, married or not, who works or is a housewife... And they force themselves to fall down to be punished for some reason. They have to work hard to return to the surface. But a free human being rarely fall in this well, and he doesn’t treat himself like this, he just cares to be free day by day. So just women behave in this way because they do not feel free in a society who judges them for their gender, the way they dress, the way they appear and not questions about what they feel.
first received critical acclaim for her work that captured the horrors of family violence. Her photographs of domestic violence and its aftermath have become landmark essays in the field of documentary photography, challenging social attitudes and putting a spotlight on the devastating impact of everyday violence. She created an organization, I AM
Someone can say that women are not able to control themselves because of an emotional whirl caused by female genitals and this is just a weakness. All of us should embrace our differences and sensibility to make them our strength. We should overcome prejudices and injustices. We should fight against violence. As Simone de Beauvoir said: “Woman is the victim of no mysterious fatality: but this is no reason to conclude that her ovaries condemn her to live forever on her knees”. But in everyday life women suffer for domestic violence, husband or boyfriend’s brutality and people often close their indifferent eyes. One of strong women who fights for female injustices is Donna Ferrato, an American photojournalist. She
Ruth, the Original Unbeatable Woman Ruth divorced her husband in spite of family and social pressure to stay with him, as he was the father of her two sons. She told her mother, “My sons don’t recognize me now because of what he has done to me. I’ll never go back. Philadelphia, PA, 1985
UNBEATABLE, which mission is to raise awareness, educate and prevent domestic violence against women and children through real stories of real people. To expose, document, and raise awareness of domestic violence through an archive of stories, photographs, and video narratives. They want to help women to learn their rights and to live free of violence. Every woman is unbeatable. ■ See more of Donna Ferrato’s organization at iamunbeatable.com
“Welcome to the sanctuary for people who wish to help wipe out violence against women and children. This is collection of stories told to me throughout many years come from people who’ve been through it. My photography has been used like work horses consistently bringing breaking news through global media outlets. They’ve created an awareness of a social disease since the stone age. It’s a problem. These shared stories, videos, interviews and photographs are proof.”
Diana in the Hospital When Diana was rushed to the emergency room, he chest was covered with black tire marks. Her boyfriend had driven over her with his truck. Still in the hospital two days later, she saw her injuries for the first time and said quietly, “Well, I guess I don’t look too bad.” Minneapolis, MN 1988
Bengt & Elisabeth Bengt ransacked the bathroom searching for his cocaine pipe. “I’ve hidden it,” Elisabeth said, “to save our marriage”. “You’re lying, you wanted it for yourself ” Bengt shouted. Suddenly, he hit Elisabeth. Saddle River, NJ, 1982
Diamond As the police arrested his father, Diamond said “I hate you for hitting my mother! Don’t come back to his house!” Minneapolis, MN, 1988
MY ADIDAS SINCE 1986
Written by Annaluce Cavalmoretti
The beginning of the Hip hop look and the love for sneakers
t was 2017 when A$AP Rocky dedicated an entire song to the fashion designer Raf Simons.
in the music industry such as A$AP Rocky, Kanye West, Pharrell Williams and Drake, artists who made fashion a central part of their identity as rappers.
The inextricable relationship between hip hop music and fashion have all, in some way or another, been influenced and affected by this group.
Probably, today, not everyone knows about Run D.M.C. and their hit song “My Adidas”. When in 1983 Joseph Simmons, Darryl McDaniels and Jason Mizell formed their group, they did not expected that their influence would be so important in the hip hop and fashion world of today.
When a man wears a sportswear totallook, sneakers and chains, the first thing that pops in every mind it is “Hip hop!”. Before Run D.M.C.’s hip hop was really different. Now it is fashionable to wear that kind of look, but at the time just Run D.M.C. dressed like this every day, even if soon or later their fans followed them. They not only created a stylistic movement but also came to represent black and urban youth across the US.
In 2015 Adidas started a collaboration with the rapper Kanye West creating the sneaker line named Adidas Yeezy. In 2016, Snoop Dogg partnered with Adidas on an “L.A. Stories” capsule collection. In 2017, Jay-Z joined forces with PUMA for his 4:44 sneaker. Soon it will be released the new collaboration between Travis Scott and Nike with the new Air Force 1 Low “Cactus Jack”.
Especially during the last fashion weeks, the first people who appear in the front row are the one involved
These are just few examples of the strong relationship between rappers and sneakers, but everything actually started in 1986. Run D.M.C became the first hip hop group to receive a million dollar endorsement deal by a fashion brand. During their “Raising Hell” tour while performing their hit “my Adidas”, thousands of fans lifted up their sneakers. Soon it was realized a limited edition shell toe superstar sneaker and followed the crossed-branded clothing range, still in production under the Adidas original label. The partnership pervaded every press call, every image and every association the band made.
Its rampant success paved the way for the kind of endorsement deals that saturate the music industry today and forged Adidasâ€™ long-running association with hip hop. Hip hop has always been a voice for the marginalized, represented by young black kids who always lived in the middle of crimes and used music as a way to escape violence. As rap climbed the charts, it lost its outsider status. Its biggest artists displaced pop stars, then became pop stars.
The crowd at a Run-DMC gig in Philadelphia, US, c.1980s.
Hip hop is the most creative movement in the music industry, and luxury brands who at first disdained black artists now are using them as the faces of their campaigns. Today hip hop artists are powerful people full of money and every kid wants be able to afford luxury brands like them. That cultural shift has also propelled Virgil Abloh to the top spot at Louis Vuitton, where he is become the first black designer to helm a major luxury house. So we have to give credit to Run D.M.C. for their legacy. Not only they helped hip hop artists became what they are today, but also black people are considered style influencers from every person of every race and every age. â–
Anna Wintour, Pharrell Williams and Lily-Rose Depp attend the Chanel show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017/2018
Kanye West and Virgil Abloh at his First Louis Vuitton Show
Check the new sneakers Cactus Jack x Nike Air Force 1 will be released on November