GALAPAGOS ESCAPE
Danielle Bates – Head of UK Sales – National Geographic – Lindblad Expeditions
Travelled on 8th February 2025
Travel is a feeling.
It can make us feel excited, happy, anxious, intrigued, fun, blessed, even proud perhaps. There are so many words I could use to describe my past travel experiences, and I have been fortunate to have some fantastic ones. However, nothing quite prepared me for the feeling of being completely and utterly wordless on expedition in the Galápagos Islands with National GeographicLindblad Expeditions. It has blown me away in a way I didn’t imagine possible! I’ve always enjoyed writing about my adventures, but this one has had me scratching my head – because how is it possible to find the right words to articulate and justify such an out of this world encounter?
I promise I will try to do it justice.
Day 1 – London Heathrow – Madrid – Quito
Terminal 5 at LHR was the start point for our epic journey, and after a smooth and comfortable flight with Iberia to Madrid, we made our short connection with ease for our long-haul flight to Ecuador. I was in the Premium Economy cabin which I found to be more than adequate for a long-haul daytime flight – with the usual ‘frills’ of fizz before take-off, upgraded dining and a much larger seat pitch with a generous recline. The fares for this route to upgrade to premium were reasonable and I highly recommend it for the 11-hour flight.
We landed in Quito around 430pm local time and after collecting our luggage, were met by National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions. The Wyndham Quito Airport Hotel is where our overnight stay was booked. This is an airport hotel, a threeminute transfer from the terminal and after a long day of travelling was extremely convenient. A speedy check-in process, and our large modern rooms awaited. We went down to the restaurant for a bite to eat and found the service, choice and quality of food to be very good. We were, of course, exhausted so retreated to bed early, ready for an early departure the following morning at 7:30 for our flight to Galápagos.
Day 2 – Quito – Galápagos
After breakfast and checking out, we were met by a representative of National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions in the hotel lobby. The representative gave us boarding passes for the next flight, showed us how to complete required immigration forms, and our visas for the Galápagos. Luggage tags were attached to our main luggage, which we wouldn’t see again until it arrived in our cabin onboard! The luggage service was friendly
and efficient, which allowed us to leave the Wyndham feeling confident and ready for the next exciting stage of our journey.
The representative took us through domestic security at Quito airport swiftly, we had a short wait until the Avianca flight onwards to the Galápagos. All flights to the Galápagos go via Guayaquil, so we did have a short touch down here before continuing to our destination, Baltra Island.
We were greeted almost immediately off the plane by large land iguanas who were just roaming freely around the grounds of the airport – quite surreal, but just the authentic welcome we were all hoping for. Another breezy airport experience and then on to our transfer bus, expertly guided by the naturalists that would be joining our Expedition. Just five minutes later, we arrived at the wooden jetty where our zodiacs awaited.
We sped towards the National Geographic Islander II with the (very) warm breeze in our hair and a thrill in our (tired) eyes, but somehow – as I always find with exciting travel experiences, the adrenalin takes over and the jet lag fades in to insignificance.
We embarked this beautiful ship via the marina platform and in through the ‘gearing up’ station, where shortie wetsuits adorned the hangers, fresh towels presented neatly in storage walls and snorkel gear was displayed in a uniform manner. An excellent expedition-style welcome!
The check-in process was incredibly simple, we all met in the lobby and were then taken individually to our suites where our luggage was already waiting for us! My first impression of my suite (206) was, in a word, wow! The sleek, chic and modern design gave the impression of a five-star private yacht. The bathroom, with twin sinks and a walk-in shower, was huge, with plenty of storage space, desk space and mirrors. There are just two types of staterooms and suites on the National Geographic Islander II. There is the lead in stateroom (which is what I was in) and the Islander Suite - a much larger suite with a separate seating area and bathtub, however there are only four of them on board. After a short rest and unpack we were invited up to the Patio Café for an al fresco welcome lunch. With both indoor and outdoor seating, the Patio Café served us food consisting of a selection of fresh local produce including sandwiches, salads, local fruit juices and more, it was delicious.
An introductory briefing and safety drill was delivered by our Expedition Leader, Gaby in the Cove Lounge. This was informative and not too lengthy, as we were all so desperate to get back on the zodiacs for our first outing to ‘Black Turtle Cove’. Back through the Marina Platform and out on to the zodiacs, we sped to the tip of the cove and began a serene ‘cruise’ through the mangrove area of Santa Cruz. Once the zodiac engine was off, you could have honestly heard a pin drop in the water around us. The silence was exhilarating, as 10 fellow guests and I, along with our naturalist, took in the pristine surroundings we were witnessing. Pelicans flew past us our heads and dove into the water hoping to catch their dinner. The brown noddy’s swopping down with them, landing on their elongated beaks and then cheekily pinching the fish they’d caught right out of their mouths and keeping it for themselves – it was a delight to watch.
As we ventured further into the cove, we all caught our first glimpse of the giant green sea turtles. The iPhones came out in force as we raced to capture this magical moment. Against the backdrop of the now dusk lit sky, gasps of wonder and astonishment could be heard as our eyes darted from these gorgeous, ginormous undersea creatures to the many different species of bird circling above our heads, including the pelicans, noddys and now blue-footed boobies. Back under the sea we now had black tip reef sharks in our sights too, as the marine life came out in force to welcome us to their home. I felt incredibly privileged to be amongst them, and for the first time it really hit me, that I was here, and really experiencing the magic of one of the world’s most remote and biodiverse archipelagos.
Back on board, we showered and changed for the next briefing, which would outline the following day’s activities. Served by the attentive wait staff, the expedition team gave us a full insight into what to expect from day two.
In the Yacht Club restaurant dinner was served a la carte with a choice of soup or salad, followed by a main course (fish, meat or vegetarian option offered) and then desert. Dinner followed this format every evening and in a sustainable effort to reduce food waste, guests are asked to order their food at lunchtime in preparation for the evening meal. Local Ecuadorian flavours were present, using only locally sourced ingredients and recipes from our chefs’ families, all native to the islands and Ecuador. You really do feel as though you are indulging in the local cuisine. A choice of red or white wine is also provided and a wine list is available should you wish to order a different or specific bottle. We found the wine to be great, and didn’t need to do this throughout our voyage. After dinner, we retreated to our suites for a well-earned rest after two very long and busy travel days, and it was a pleasure to return to these beautiful suites for a very comfortable night’s sleep.
Day 3 – Santa Cruz Island
A selection of freshly baked pastries, breads and continental meats and cheeses were always available during breakfast, alongside cereals and fresh fruit. On the hot counter, you could have eggs and omelets made to order as well as bacon, sausages and vegetables. For me, the highlight of breakfast each day was the delicious coffee. As a bit of a coffee connoisseur, I can safely say the fresh Ecuadorian filter coffee was some of the best I’ve ever tried, and with a freshly squeezed orange juice sat out on the deck of the patio café, I had found a perfect way to start each day.
After breakfast, some of us gathered in the Cove Lounge for a photography session. National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions have a real emphasis on photography on board, and you will always sail with a National Geographic certified photo instructor. This session was really engaging and relevant, as the tips were all geared around iPhone cameras – which most of the passengers were using. We were shown examples of wildlife photography and landscapes, all taken with an iPhone and shown how to adjust our settings to ensure we could capture that perfect picture.
A short zodiac ride took us to Santa Cruz –this is one of four inhabited islands in the Galápagos, and is the largest of them all with a population of around 20,000 people. It was a surprise to see so much built up infrastructure. A children’s play park, vending machines, bus stops, cars, taxis and cyclists filled the busy roads and streets which were also lined with many little tourist shops selling souvenirs as well as bars, restaurants and cafés. The juxtaposition of this against the lazy sea lions which were just spread out amongst the lively, regular looking town was hard to get your head around – a little unexpected but a welcome glimpse into the local culture. We boarded a bus which took us on a ride up to a higher altitude of the island, around 30 minutes transfer time before our first stop, a coffee and sugar cane plantation – one which National Geographic-Lindblad
Expeditions supports with its commitment to giving back to the communities it visits. We were shown the entire process of making ‘moonshine’ a liquor made in the Galápagos and we were offered a taste, along with trying some delicious coffee, chocolate and pure sugar cane, fascinating and satisfying! We then drove on a little further to see the Los Gemelos collapsed crater, which was an active volcano over 200,000 years ago. It is now home to many species of birds, owls and various other wildlife – a great photo opportunity.
Finally, we arrived at Rancho Manzanillo, one of the largest tortoise preserves in the Galápagos, and also a family run restaurant and farm up in the highlands of Santa Cruz. A beautiful, colonial style restaurant awaited us, where lunch, beer and wine were served to an outlook of lush, green, tropical land – where it was easy to spot (even from afar) the wondrous giant land tortoises!
After a relaxed and exquisite lunch (including a local Boobies Craft Beer!) we were provided boots and broke off in to small groups of 10-12 to begin our trail through the marshlands to find the giant tortoises. These creatures really do fascinate the mind, with the oldest being around 180 years old. Almost dinosaur like in their appearance, especially when they pop their heads and necks out of their giant shells. The rain began as we were walking, which always makes the tortoises more active, so we were lucky to see dozens of these incredible animals, and able to get quite close enough for some amazing picture opportunities. Despite the rain, this experience was mesmerizing, surreal and incredible – I just couldn’t take my eyes off them.
Some guests went on to a baby tortoise sanctuary, some went straight back to the ship, and we – along with some others, decided to stay in town and explore for a while. We happily wandered the streets for an hour, picking up some souvenirs along the way taking in the sights and sounds of this ‘busy’ town. Busy in
comparison to the largely uninhabited archipelago, but still very laid back and quiet in comparison to any UK town! Once back on board, we went along to the local artisan shopping event in the lobby, where National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions invite local artists, authors, jewelry makers etc. to showcase their wares and give guests the opportunity to see them making their bespoke pieces. National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions supports local artisans in the Galápagos by selling and promoting their items in the ships’ Global Galleries – sending 5% of profits back to the artisans. I purchased some beautiful blue feet earrings, children’s books and a lovely soft toy.
Showered and changed for the evening briefing and cocktail hour, where once again hors d’oeuvre were served and a recap of our fabulous day was given. Gaby gave us a glimpse in to what we could expect the following day and then we had a guest speaker from the Charles Darwin Research Station describing their important and scientific work on the islands, which was really interesting. Responsible exploration is in the DNA of Lindblad Expeditions, starting with Lars-Eric Lindblad, who brought the first international citizen explorers to the islands in 1967, playing an active role in conservation efforts in Galápagos in the 1960s. Since then, National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions guests have contributed more than $10 million to support projects led by local conservation and scientific leaders, such as the Charles Darwin Foundation, which has worked for more than six decades to protect this unique archipelago and ensure its pristine ecosystems and incredible biodiversity will continue to thrive for generations to come.
On this evening’s menu was duck, my favorite meal so far and cooked beautifully, accompanied by a fantastic Ecuadorian red wine. This evening, we were treated to a performance on board by some local dancers and a band, which was a lovely way to conclude another incredible day.
Day 4 – North Seymour & Rábida Island
Today is a day I will never forget. There are so many magical moments from this adventure I will treasure, but today in its entirety is undoubtably one of the highlights of my life to date.
To avoid the intense heat of the sun, sunrise treks are offered on occasion, and this morning was one of these. We enjoyed a cup of coffee and a pastry at 5:45 in the lobby, before a zodiac cruise to the rocky shoreline of North Seymour at 6:15. As the sun began to rise over the horizon, we jumped ashore and began our gentle hike across the black, dusty, rocky terrain.
There was a distinct, pre-historic feel to the island, blue-footed boobies could be spotted, as well as the intriguing, magnificent frigatebird with its enlarged red neck, ready to attract passing females. Their hopeful stance is a perfect picture moment and we were lucky to see a handful of these incredible birds around the island, almost posing for us as they perched in wait. Back along the coastline we encountered sleepy sea lions who laid back as they basked in the hot morning sun, completely unfazed by our presence as we passed them by. At any time, you only walk in groups of up to 12 people, so you never overwhelm the wildlife, and you will be asked to keep a respectable distance of two meters away from them as well. We boarded our zodiacs ready for our short ride back to the ship, where a delicious breakfast on the deck awaited us – we were ready for the fresh juice and coffee after such an exciting and busy morning, all before 8am!
A mandatory safety briefing on water activities (kayaking, snorkelling and paddle-boarding) was given in the Cove Lounge. All these activities are optional of course and are included in the cost of your trip. Having never snorkelled before, I was anxious, but I absolutely knew that I had to give it a go. Today’s snorkelling spot was to be from a beach, and it was advised that those less confident may
find it easier to have a go today, from the comfort of the shoreline – rather than on the deep-water snorkels that were to be offered in the coming days. Decision made; I was going to give it a go! Down in the ‘gearing up’ room by the marina, we were all fitted with shortie wetsuits appropriate to our size – with the ship carrying everything from an XS to an XXXL. Snorkel masks and flippers were also fitted by the expert expedition team, and we were thereby given our equipment to keep on our hangers for the rest of the week.
Whilst we sailed from North Seymour Island to Rábida Island, we had some time to enjoy the exquisite facilities on the ship. The promenade deck has four luxurious hammocks at the aft of the ship, overlooking the ocean as we glided through the calm waters – a simply perfect spot for watching the stunning scenery pass us by. National Geographic Islander II also has a small plunge pool, with sofa style loungers and day beds, offering the perfect place to relax and cool off in the height of the midday sun.
An announcement was made through the speakers, offering guests the opportunity to swim from the marina platform at the back of the ship, directly into the Pacific Ocean… I did not need asking twice on this one, and I hurried down to join several other eager passengers. There was an inflatable platform attached to the marina, and once in – it was truly idyllic, other worldly almost, another ‘pinch-me’ moment whilst floating around in the middle of the ocean looking up at our stunning ship, enjoying the warm Pacific waters around us. The only thing that could possibly tempt me out was another delicious lunch being served up on deck!
I took the opportunity to try the on-board spa today, and opted for a 30-minute relaxation massage, which was incredible. If you can find time to squeeze a treatment in to the busy schedule, I would highly
recommend this one. It was the perfect way to wind down after lunch and just before heading out on our afternoon excursion.
Eagerly, we hopped into the zodiac and headed for Rábida Island Beach. The red sand was a sight to behold against the rugged rocky landscape. We gathered with the naturalists who helped us to get our flippers on and began to snorkel in the shallow water near the beach. As our confidence grew, we swam along the coastline with our fellow travellers. The underwater world was spectacular. As I glided through the pristine waters amongst giant sea turtles, sea lions, pufferfish, angelfish, parrotfish, crabs and so much more, I wondered how I’d made it this far in life without ever being brave enough to snorkel before. The colours, the corals, the exhilaration – not only was I snorkelling, but I was snorkelling in one of the world’s most remote and protected areas and it was wonderful. Some of the sea lions are so playful, almost puppy like and certainly inquisitive – they come and play with your flippers and swim so close to you, it really was the most surreal and exciting experience. Eventually, after around an hour we headed back to the beach, and then the zodiac back to the ship for a hot shower and freshen up prior to our evening cocktail hour/briefing and then dinner.
On an expedition, the evenings tend to draw to a close relatively early as everyone is so exhausted from their full day of activities and excursions, but the Cove Lounge/Bar will stay open as long as guests are still up and enjoying a drink. On balmy evenings, we opted to take a drink up on the promenade deck and sit in the hammocks or the sofa day/beds around by the pool. Sadly, most of the evenings were cloudy for us, but when the opportunity arises, the crew will offer star gazing evenings from the top deck.
Day 5 – Crossing the Equator and Isabela & Fernandina
8:15am marked a special occasion on board, as we crossed the equator – gathered up on the promenade deck together, the ships horn sounded at this momentous moment and all guests were offered a variety of drinks to celebrate in style.
This morning, we decided to try the excursion that generates much interest amongst prospective guests and is a great unique selling point for National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions – the glass bottomed boat! If you do not wish to snorkel, you don’t have to miss out on the magical underwater world beneath you –you can still see everything, whilst staying dry! Each of the ships in our Galápagos fleet (apart from the National Geographic Delfina) carries a glass bottomed boat, and this excursion will be offered a few times during each itinerary. Deep water snorkelling was offered alongside this after breakfast for those wishing to continue a marine based activity. Our expedition leader, Gaby, joined us on the boat and was excellent at pointing out and assisting the driver of the boat to steer towards schools of fish, sea turtles and sea lions.
Fernandina – the youngest and third largest, active volcanic island in the Galápagos. The island remains in a pristine state with one visitor site located at the northeast edge. Our expert guide led our group of 12 off the zodiac on to a short wooden jetty. We could see hundreds of marine iguanas basking on the hot rocks, flightless cormorants perched around, sea lion pups playing with each other in the shallows where the waves crashed against the rocks and colourful Sally Lightfoot Crabs creeping around. It was almost overwhelming, in a positive way – not knowing where to look first or which animal to photograph first, quite a surreal and lovely dilemma.
To add to the magic, after a short rain shower, we were rewarded with a bold, beautiful rainbow, and the National Geographic Islander II sat perfectly underneath it, offering yet another wonderful photo opportunity.
Back on board, all guests were invited to a wine tasting on the observation deck. There were several red, white or rosé wines to try alongside a beautiful display of antipasti meats, cheeses and olives to compliment the palate. A warm evening enjoying delicious wine and tapas-style snacks was a real treat and appreciated by us all before another informative briefing, followed by an al fresco BBQ dinner served in the Patio Café. It was nice to have a change from the more formal Yacht Club restaurant and enjoy the balmy evening eating outside.
Day 6 – Santiago Island
Today was the last full day on our expedition. In the morning, there was a very informative ‘disembarkation’ briefing, where we were given new luggage tags determined by our destination in Ecuador (Guayaquil or Quito) and a schedule for the following morning. We would have to pack and put our suitcases outside our cabin door by 7:30, so the crew could safely get them to the airport for us – the next time we would see them would be at the airport in Ecuador, once again a really helpful and seamless process. We decided to make the most of the last morning on board the ship – we relaxed by the pool, lazed in the hammocks and began to think about packing and organising ourselves for the long journey home.
After lunch, a kayaking opportunity was offered. In the Galápagos, the National Park rules states that you can only deploy a maximum of eight units (kayaks/ paddleboards) at one time, so there is a sign-up sheet in the lobby for kayaking. This will be offered several times throughout the week and once you’ve had a turn, future priority will be given to those guests who haven’t yet had the opportunity. This was the very last occasion, and we had waited patiently for our turn, so we excitedly disembarked via the marina platform once again on to the zodiac. Once in the bay of Puerto Egas, Santiago, we hopped from zodiac to kayak (after being shown the process by our naturalist) and spent a blissful 50 minutes gently kayaking in the grooves of the bay. It was peaceful and serene, as we all took in our last moments of this incredible excursion.
This evening’s briefing was wonderful. Earlier in the day, all guests had been invited to share their favourite few images with the National Geographic certified photo instructor, who assembled them into spectacular slideshow of our expedition, which we watched in the lounge whilst we savoured cocktails and reflected on the extraordinary experience we’d shared. The certified photo instructor explained that we’d receive the guest slideshow along with the daily programs about two weeks after returning home as part of the post-voyage portfolio.
Our farewell dinner was served in the Yacht Club restaurant. Most guests retired to their cabins for an early night, ahead of their journeys home tomorrow.
Day 7 & 8 – Baltra Island – Quito – London
An early breakfast was followed by a short zodiac ride for a bus transfer to the airport, where our expedition team escorted us to the terminal, and we all waved an emotional goodbye.
A short flight from the Galápagos back to Guayaquil where we made the connection to our flight back to the UK. Again, Avianca were great and the boarding passes for the Galápagos – Ecuador sector were issued locally and easily.
My colleague and I travelled from Guayaquil to Madrid in business class with Iberia on
an overnight flight. I highly recommend booking premium economy on the outbound and business class on the inbound (if it’s an overnight flight) as we found the prices on the upgrades to be more reasonable than a lot of other airlines, and the flat bed was a welcome way to end what has undoubtedly been the trip of a lifetime.
A quote direct from a passenger on board the National Geographic Islander II, which I found really insightful and an excellent way to describe an expedition with National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions:
“We’ve travelled extensively, we’ve done a huge amount – but an expedition is like un-locking a new level of travel experience, it was the natural next step”