A STROLL THROUGH COLONIAL HONG KONG

A ST ROLL T H ROUG H

COLONIAL HONG KONG TREA WILTSHIRE

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A STROLL THROUGH COLONIAL HONG KONG

THE COURT OF

FINAL APPEAL Located as it is in the very heart of Central, Hong Kong’s first colonial courthouse has always played a symbolic role in the city that now towers above it.

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The entire Judiciary turns out annually for a commemorative photograph in Hong Kong Park.

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Ceremonial proceedings held in the High Court: Senior Council appointed by the Honourable Chief Justice.

The fine neo-classical granite building rising on the reclaimed land of the Praya Central looked onto Statue Square, but its protracted construction was plagued by problems that began with the task of driving hundreds of Chinese fir tree trunks into the reclaimed site as foundations.

Shortages of granite and a lack of proficient stonemasons caused further delays and there were squabbles about the court’s orientation – should its arcaded galleries face the pleasant greenery of the cricket ground or the assemblage of royal statues that would occupy Statue Square.

When inaugurated on 15 January 1912, following the demise of the last dynasty to rule China, its solid grandeur gave heart to those fearing that republican fervour would engulf Hong Kong. Not even the governor’s complaints about its costly decade-long construction could dampen enthusiasm.

At its opening, the Chief Justice, Sir Francis Piggot, observed, “Hong Kong could be proud of the famous masonry which through all these years has been gradually put together, and if, “I may prophesy, that when Victoria has ceased to be a city, when the harbour has silted up, when even the Hong Kong Club has crumbled away, this building will How to get there remain like a pyramid to commemorate MTR Island Line. the genius of the Far East.”

Central Station, While locals are always nervous Exit J1. about the survival of landmark heritage Location buildings, they are hoping that this 中環昃臣道8號 colonial landmark is safe: its exterior was 立法會大樓 declared a monument and is protected Legislative Council under the Antiquities and Monuments Building, 8 Jackson Road, Central Ordinance in 1984.

THE COURT OF FINAL APPEAL

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THE

CENOTAPH In the heart of Central stands a dignified colonial memorial to those who have laid down their lives in global conflicts. However, in 1989 Hong Kong’s Cenotaph acquired added significance when it also came to symbolize sacrifice in the name of democracy.

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Three soldiers of the infantry battalion, the Black Watch, lowered the flags of the Crown Colony of Hong Kong, and the British Army, Royal Navy and Royal Air Force for the last time at sunset on 30 June 1997.

Prince Charles, accompanied by Governor Lord Wilson, laid wreaths on Remembrance Day 1990, during one of the Prince’s several visits to Hong Kong.

THE CENOTAPH

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Post Handover, Remembrance Day is observed with less formality and has evolved into a multi-cultural affair with members of the clergy from many faiths officiating. With medals in evidence, Ex-Servicemen fill the ranks by routinely attending memorial services.

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THE CENOTAPH

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ST JOHN’S CATHEDRAL One of the few colonial buildings to witness much of Hong Kong’s history is St John’s Anglican Cathedral that has occupied its present freehold site since it replaced the original matshed church in 1849.

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In attendance were church dignitaries from many countries in Asia, as well as Canada and Australia. From the Church of England came the Bishop of Salisbury.

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HEADQUARTER HOUSE Once part of a military barracks complex overlooking the harbour, Headquarter House was the nerve centre comprising the offices and residence of the Commander-in-Chief of the British forces in Hong Kong.

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Chinese reflections on tea include, “Better to be deprived of food for three days, than tea for one.�

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Tea plays an important role in Chinese customs – as daughters-in-law serve tea to parents as a traditional wedding ritual.

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THE

ALEXANDER GRANTHAM FIREBOAT The post-war governor, Sir Alexander Grantham, (1947-1957) steered Hong Kong through turbulent times and hosed down many dramas, so it is appropriate the governor is remembered in a park situated on the reclaimed land of the former Taikoo Docks. The Alexander Grantham fireboat, once the pride of Hong Kong’s fleet of fireboats, is today a major attraction at the park.

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For Hong Kong, the 70s dawned promisingly with the arrival in its waters of the giant ocean liner Queen Elizabeth, purchased at auction by the Taiwanese shipping tycoon C.Y. Tung for refurbishment as a floating university.

THE ALEXANDER GRANTHAM FIREBOAT

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The remnant of the Union Jack salvaged from the flames, all that remains of the stern flag of the Queen Elizabeth.

when fire broke out on the vessel as it was undergoing an HK$30 million refurbishment.

Arson was the cause when several fires engulfed the vessel on 9 January 1972, weeks away from its maiden voyage.

While fireboats converged on the liner and helicopters hovered overhead, pleasure junks helped to evacuate the 700 panic-stricken workers and visiting guests.

Within an hour most of the superstructure was ablaze and the liner was engulfed in flames for three days and nights until the gutted hulk keeled on its side and sank.

Firemen from the Alexander Grantham, who had sprayed their hoses in welcome when the liner had first entered Hong Kong’s harbour, now stood to attention to mark its final demise.

If the liner was the pride of the How to get there Take the MTR to Tai Koo Station Cunard fleet, the Alexander Grantham and Exit D1, cross Taikoo Wan held a similar – if more modest – status Road to Quarry Bay Park. in Hong Kong’s fleet of fireboats.

Location Built in 1953 – when Sir Alexander 太古城 鰂魚涌公園 was in office – it participated in many 葛量洪號滅火輪展覽館 notable maritime rescues before going Fireboat Alexander Grantham on permanent display in the park.

Exhibition Gallery, Quarry Bay Park, Taikoo Shing Open 9am- 5pm, close on Tue. Telephone: 2367 7821 248

The fireboat was decommissioned in 2002 and in 2004 converted into an exhibition gallery on fire fighting.

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SAI WAN WAR CEMETERY During World War II, Hong Kong was regarded as a difficult outpost that must be held as long as possible and reinforced as little as possible. The odds were stacked against its successful defence.

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Post-war view of the Sai Wan War Cemetery on the gentle slopes of Mt Collinson.

Here are remembered the British, Canadian, Australian and Indian infantry who perished during battles that ranged across the New Territories and Hong Kong Island.

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The military cemetery follows the contour of a hillside overlooking what was once a theatre of war.

The immaculately tended terraced graves, some with names and some without, are today surrounded by a dress circle of forested hills.

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A STROLL THROUGH COLONIAL HONG KONG

STAR FERRY Like many colonial icons, the squat and sturdy iron-hulled ferries that churn back and forth across the harbour have their roots in Hong Kong’s early decades.

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Today the crossing takes half the time it did when initially inaugurated, as the harbour is continually narrowed for what government and developers euphemistically describe as ‘beauty enhancement’.

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Hong Kong’s legacy as a British Crown Colony remains clearly visible in a string of monuments and statues, gardens and war memorials that vividly conjure up the British Emp i re’s m ost e a st e rn out post T h es e well-tended landmarks are more than relics of history; they are symbols of an astonishing stor y of survival The 24 destinations in this guide point the way to a leisurely stroll through Hong Kong’s colonial history Each landmark offers an intriguing story; each represents a page of Hong Kong’s oft-turbulent history It is a journey that introduces you to a cast of colourful characters and to those who forged one of history’s great collaborations – the partnership that forged Hong Kong.

ISBN 978-988-15562-3-3