issue 78 | january 2016 www.afoodieworld.com
The Inside Tract Guide your guts to good health
Edible Insects The new food of the future
The Flavours of Fermentation Recipes to aid digestion with deliciousness
Go with your gut
CEO Lily Ng CTO Derek Kean Editor-in-Chief Alicia Walker Editor-at-Large Celia Hu Digital Editor Keshia Hannam Creative Director Helen Griffiths Designer Robert Li Foodie Club & Events Manager Hannah Chung Head of Sales & Marketing Joseph Kwok
It’s January! And very typically everyone will be thinking about what they have put inside their bodies over the hedonistic and indulgent time of year that is December. But, we don’t want to get all salady because, although we always enjoy a good salad, we are foodies and there is far too much tasting out there to restrict ourselves to one type. Therefore, we have sought out the ways in which we can improve our eating habits while still allowing ourselves to eat a full gamut of choices. This is where fermentation comes in. We are talking krauts, kimchis and pickles. Fermenting foods allows beneficial bacteria to enter our digestive system and helps our body absorb more of the nutrients from the foods that we eat. Incorporating these foods into our daily diet is easy, tasty and can improve health, so why wouldn’t we? Check out our recipes from Hong Kong’s fermentation queen, Jacqueline Renee Cohen, as she walks us through the process so we can start doing it in our own kitchens. I’ve got a good gut feeling about this one!
Client Engagement Manager Kathryn Riley
Recipes
Sales Executive Philip Wong Developer Dale Foo Junior Digital Editor Cheuk Fung Photographer Sophie Jin
Alicia Walker Editor-in-Chief editor@afoodieworld.com
Foodie Panel
Food-loving folk who’ve helped us this month:
Published by Foodie Group, Suite 1401, 14/F, Wah Hing Commercial Building, 283 Lockhart Road, Wanchai, HK www.afoodieworld.com Printed by Teams Printing Co., Ltd.
Foodie is published monthly, 12 times a year. The contents of the magazine are fully protected by copyright and nothing may be reprinted without permission. The publisher and editors accept no responsibility in respect to any products, goods or services that may be advertised or referred to in this issue or for any errors, omissions or mistakes in any such advertisements or references. Foodie and the Foodie magazine logo are trademarks of Foodie Group Limited. All rights reserved.
LantauMama shows us how to get started with fermenting our own foods p.40
Dr. David Perlmutter
Katharina Unger
How to eat the right foods to keep our tums and brains healthy p.22
Bringing edible desk hives to offices everywhere for daily mealworm snacking p.20
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Jacqueline Renee Cohen
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C onte nt s
Foodie Quote of the Month “About eighty percent of the food on shelves of supermarkets today didn’t exist 100 years ago.”- Larry McCleary
18 FOOD WAR
Mango Mochi Madness! Which shop should you travel to for this sweet treat?
20 CHEWIN’ THE FAT… with Katharina Unger who brings edible insects to the masses
22 THE INSIDE TRACT Discover how diet and digestion can affect your future health
28 DRESSING UP SALADS
Cover story
A handy infographic to whip up a dressing in a jiffy
40 THE FLAVOURS OF FERMENTATION
32 GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA TOWER We go floor by floor into the revamped building in search of food
Keshia Hannam discovers New York has never been so delicious
38 THE EVENT In his dining column, Yalun Tu walks us through the all important meet the parents meal
48 MEATLESS MONTHLY Cindy Lam gives us her method for a hearty soup without making it meaty
facebook.com/foodiehk // january 2016
34 FOODIE FORAYS
Jacqueline Renee Cohen shows us home fermentation methods to make delicious recipes that are also good for you
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for starters
This month’s hottest news bites
HOWARD’S GOURMET
TEA TIME
Guangzhou’s much-loved Chinese restaurant Howard’s Gourmet is at long last settling itself into Hong Kong’s dining scene. Chef Howard Cai’s ingredientfocused menu has won many admirers to his creative dishes and ‘taste comes first’ ethos. His signature dishes include avocado with stewed bird’s nest, giant conch soup, hot and sour noodles and crispy sea cucumber.
We foresee a resurgence in the popularity of tea coming to Hong Kong’s future. It will begin with BASAO, a brand new tea company that focuses on the origins of its tea leaves and supports strictly clean farming processes to create wonderfully flavourful teas while telling the stories of the families that produce them. Available online: www.basaotea.com
5/F, CCB Tower, 3 Connaught Road Central, Central, 2115 3388
SUPER GREEN What happens when you get Green Common and OVO together under one roof? The greenest megastore you’ve ever seen, that’s what.They’ve united their passionate businesses together to unveil a plant-based supermarket selling superfoods, snacks and cooking ingredients with very clear signage about each product and what’s inside them, along with a designer vegetarian bistro, a floral art boutique, and a veggie cooking studio, to create the most feel-good foodie shopping site in the world . Green Monday x OVO Green Living Emporium, Shop 1, 1/F, Nan Fung Place, 173 Des Voeux Road Central, 2110 1711
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COCONUT CONDIMENTS Keeping your new January healthy habits might be a challenge but help is here: Coconut Matter have extended their range into condiments, vinegars and sweeteners to help make healthy choices in the home that much simpler. Their 100 per cent organic coconut nectar products use completely raw and naturally fermented coconut that contain 17 amino acids and low GI to add to your everyday meals. Everything from coconut barbecue sauce and coconut balsamic vinegar to coconut syrup, flour, oil and even a chocolate coconut jam can now be added to your home larder. www.coconutmatter.com
PARK IT
Famous Japanese tsukemen shop TETSU has now landed in Causeway Bay to the delight of soup slurpers all over the city. A special ramen called ‘Sendagi’ has been created soley for the opening, and to ensure every Hong Konger will flock to the shop, it’s limited to 30 bowls a day. But they’ve also devised a way to treat their loyal soupers with a VIP fast pass, so there will be no more waiting to get your ramen on and you can leave those less dedicated diners to stand in the queue.
Over on the Kowloon side, there’s a new option for enjoying the great outdoors while dining. Urban Park is a new open-air restaurant with a huge green space for drinks or meals on the grass. Serving up European fare with city views in a large open air space, it’s perfect for enjoying Hong Kong’s urban landscape from above.
23 Canal Road West, Causeway Bay, 2172 6433
4/F, Attitude Hotel, 20-22 Granville Road, TST, 2751 1999
twitter.com/foodiehk // january 2016
RENOWNED RAMEN
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the best of the bloggers
Q. Where do you go for your healthy fix of food when eating out? Sharon Maloney www.jasmine-ginger.com I usually have my healthy fix at lunchtime and save dinner for the splurge. I like 208’s antipasti lunch buffet, which is excellent value, as I can basically gorge myself on healthy veggies. Maya Cafe Takeaway in Nan Fung Tower is only minutes from my office if I need to grab something quick. Viet Kitchen also has some delicious, authentic and very healthy food. My all-time favourite is The Kinnet Cafe. I usually eat there a few times a week - breakfast starts early at 7:30, which is great for those who do the school run and want something to eat before the office. They also have a great lunch special and there’s a nice mix of cooked and raw options.
Michelle Ng www.chopstixfix.wordpress.com When I need a healthy fix, my friends and I like to go to Kinnet Café in Sheung Wan. Great selection of salads, plus I love the way they prepare their fish. Their desserts are less sweet so the guilt is lessened if I indulge!
Stephanie Ko www.stephs852diary.com
MANA and Grassroots Pantry have been my go-to places for tasty vegetarian meals. NoodleMi is great for Vietnamese pho without the MSG, and most of the main courses at Cafe Causette are actually quite “clean”! The Kinnet Cafe, located inside a wellness center in Sheung Wan, is a new favourite spot of mine - they serve a range of food that is low-fat, low-sodium and low-sugar yet still very tasty - I know my friends are gonna kill me for revealing this hidden gem!
Ale Wilkinson www.thedimsumdiaries.com I probably frequent both MANA and Pololi at least once a week each, as they’re both healthy, quick and easy. If I’ve got a bit more time to play with then Grassroots Pantry would be my go-to choice for a delicious healthy meal.
FEATURED FOODIE Which are the best flavoured sojus in South Korea Alyse Brower is a self-professed strange wanderer and former intern here at Foodie. Currently living in Seoul, Korea, her recent post on the city’s sojus might catch your taste buds’ attention. Here’s an excerpt: Everyone has a soju story. In Korea, soju is often treated as a necessary evil. Friends gather around eating Korean BBQ, overworked employees, and college students looking for a night out will buy and drink soju often solely because it is a cheap way to get the job done. Recently, though, soju has begun to reign supreme for all of the right reasons: its notoriously cheap price is now coupled with a variety of delicious flavours. We have tried and tasted as many of the new flavoured sojus that we could find and have compiled our results. Just know, dear readers, that we did this for you… Read the rest here: www.afoodieworld.com/alyse/5429-changing-the-game-flavoured-soju 06
the social foodie
Tempting Foodie-grams and funny food tweets we giggled over this month
@CelebrityChez
My refrigerator just walked to my bedroom, opened the door, stood there and stared at me for five minutes, then it closed the door and left.
@LouisPeitzman @Starbucks
Sometimes you wanna go where everybody misspells your name.
I can’t turn water into wine, but I can turn ice cream into breakfast.
Udon @ Shiki Zen
@GarrettCake
HEY PIGS STOP TRYING TO SWALLOW ENTIRE APPLES. YOU KEEP DYING.
eats a snack while making a snack.
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foodie club
The Good Food Tour We love eating. The only thing we love more than eating is eating with people who love to eat (hehe). We did just that last month when we collaborated with Foodpanda and went on our first “Good Food Tour”, a series of 6 food tours in Hong Kong each with a different theme. The first tour was Michelin-themed, and we invited our closest friends, influencers and like-minded foodies around town to try the signature dishes from 3 top-notch restaurants in the Wanchai area. We kick started the tour at Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant, who served up Xiao Long Bao with exquisitely thin skin encompassing a hearty pork filling and a savoury broth. We also adored the Braised Pork Knuckle in Brown Sauce, which was extremely tender and the sauce brimmed with rich, vinegary flavour. Our second stop was Atelier Vivanda, a contemporary French bistro specialising in Meat and Potato. We had a taste of their signature thinly sliced smoked beef matured
for 50 days and loved the incredibly soft texture and the naturally elevated beef flavour when complemented with their homemade pepper olive oil. Their famous side dish, Pommes Dauphines (Fried Potato Balls), were unlike any we’ve ever had with an extremely thin yet perfectly crispy skin that crumbles on first contact with your mouth to reveal a soft, mushy mashed potato interior. Perfect execution. Our tour concluded at a very traditional and prestigious Chinese restaurant with a long history, Fu Ho, where we sampled their renowned Braised Hokkaido Sea Cucumber and Goose Web in Brown Sauce. The sea cucumber was almost crunchy in texture and readily absorbed the extremely flavourful braise sauce. We also attacked the Crispy Fried Chicken with gusto as it gave way to a mouthful of moist, tender chicken with a thin, crispy crunch. Keep an eye on our website for exclusive footages of this delightful food tour!
foodpanda www.foodpanda.hk 08
foodie club
Regus Holiday Market Whether it’s the jingles, the lights, the candy canes, the mulled wine or the stockings, there’s always something for everyone that really kicks you into the Christmas spirit. For us foodies, it’s Christmas markets. Not only is it a single place packed full of interesting, unique food items that can’t be found on the high street, it’s also the perfect opportunity for us to pick up all our Christmas gifts, food or non-food, in one go so we can save even more time to munch on our festive treats. We worked with our friends at Regus last month to ramp up the Christmas moods at their office spaces by holding a mini market. Walking into the market the first thing we picked up was a whiff of the homey scent of Schragels’ handrolled bagels, whose only worthy competitor was the sweet aroma of fresh, all-natural popcorn prepared by Sote. We found ourselves impulsively at Peacock Fine Foods’
stall trying their different kinds of flavourful New Zealand honey, before hopping over to Mahagany’s to sample some of their meticulously sourced wine. Among the smattering of hand-picked vendors we invited for this event was also 88beans, who offered an array of best flavour beans sourced from small craft and artisan roasters from every crook and cranny of the world. Equally impressive was Naturallybetterbox and Berrytime, who showed us some of the healthiest and most natural beauty and household products we’ve seen around. We also gained newfound knowledge on the versatility of soju from Soulite when we discovered how tasty grapefruit or coffee infused soju is, and when we took part in their fruit-infused soju making workshops to create our own concoctions from a range of different fresh fruits.
Vendors
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tried & tasted
NEW MENU Six-year-old Sun Walker takes on her first tasting with the new kids’ menu at Jamie’s Italian
Jamie’s Italian 412, Ocean Centre, Harbour Centre, TST, 3758 3333 尖沙咀廣東道17號海港城海洋中心4層412號舖 What is it? At Foodie, we are big fans of Jamie Oliver’s disruptive work on serving healthy foods in British school canteens, and further impressed that he is even attempting to change America’s cringing infatution with junk food. So, when the team invited us to the Hong Kong unveiling of his award-winning kids’ menu, we were keen to see what has brought about the awards. But, we figured we also needed an expert opinion on the subject, so we found the nearest agreeable child in the vicinity. About the taster: Sun is six years old and will try almost anything. She prefers Asian cuisine like sushi, Sichuanese dishes and pho to spaghetti and pizza, but like most children, she loves chips and anything sweet, particularly ice cream. Sun has a fairly adventurous palate but claims to extremely dislike three things: aubergines, mushrooms and courgettes. The venue: The newly opened TST location, aside from the downside of being encased inside the hectic Harbour City mall, has comfy booths, a large terrace and cool hand-painted murals decorating the walls and wonderfully high ceilings. 10
The bambino menu: This kids’ menu won an award from the British Soil Association and is revered for the fact that you can trace every single ingredient used in its dishes. The choices all have low fat and salt content and are each served with a fresh juice, or glass of milk, and a salad. They come in two sizes for little kids ($68) and big kids ($78). Sun found the baby beef burgers to be the perfect size for her petite palms and wondered, “Do they make these using baby cows?” and was relieved to learn that they do not. We were delighted by the lack of sauce on the burgers; there was a light skimming of lemony yoghurt
tried & tasted
a chicken and veggie wrap, vegetable crisps, grapes and cherry tomatoes and a gigantic red apple on the side. It looked pretty much like Sun’s school lunches, so she wasn’t excited by it. She was also happily full by that point so we took it home and she used it for her lunch the following day, and by all accounts the box came back empty, which is always a good sign.
but no ketchup in sight and left the flavouring to the juicy beef. She was annoyed to learn the hedgehog potatoes weren’t in any way hedgehog-based, but pleased to discover they tasted just like French fries. The “shake em” salad brought her right into the prep process with a jar of fresh veg and fruit, and a side of yoghurt dressing to dollop on top. She spent ages shaking up this jar of salad, and found it made the food more enjoyable as she felt she was part of its preparation.
She gave a long mmm after a bite of the salmon with green beans, though didn’t touch the crushed new potatoes. The picnic box came with
Oh my goodness; so, this means I like courgettes now? She was spoiled with the desserts ($18 each), which are a choice of seasonal fruit, a chocolate brownie with ice cream, or a single scoop. In typical tasting-fashion, they brought her all three, and she ate them all, with a few bites shared with her mum who also imbibed on a gorgeous Clover Club made with gin, free-range organic egg white, lemon juice and homemade raspberry syrup ($88). Verdict: I had expected Sun to like the menu here, but I hadn’t expected her to adore it. “I like this very much” was uttered frequently and the retro viewfinder menu, rather than simply a gimmick, was engaging and presented the options in a cool and exciting way that reminds us why toys were so much better back in the day. The prices are good, the staff are wonderful, the food is healthy, filling and fun. As Sun said “He’s a really good cooker. I would always like to go here.” AW
www.afoodieworld.com // january 2016
The chicken lollipops looked a bit on the dry side but Sun devoured them. When we asked, the response was simple, “I like this chicken very much because it tastes like chicken.” For this six-year-old, sauces and seasonings are clearly unnecessary when you use good ingredients. The rainbow vegetable crisps are long, thinly sliced sticks of dehydrated courgettes and carrots, which Sun happily munched away on. When we asked her thoughts, she said, “They’re like eating crisps, but vegetables.” She knew the carrots were carrots, but after she’d obliterated two of the white ones banded by green, I told her they were, in fact, courgettes. There was disbelief, followed by injustice, and then a sheepish, “Oh my goodness, so, this means I like courgettes now?” Yes, Mr. Oliver, you managed to eradicate one of the items on the most hated list, and it wasn’t even deep fried or doused in butter and salt. Take that America; your school junk food is going down.
We ordered one of their new non-kids’ menu items, which also has a focus on health and are big on the use of superfoods. Sun (although ostensibly full) ate more than half of my Dingly Dell chargrilled pork chop ($220) served with an apple and kohlrabi salad instead of stodgy starches. Her professional taste buds seem not to be relegated to the kids’ menu, between bites she stated that (as we discussed the current cinema releases) “Inside Out is a very good movie, but not as good as this pork chop.” You can’t argue with that logic; the pork chop was outstanding.
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New! The Ocean Shop 303-304, 3/F, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, 2889 5939 淺水灣海灘道28號The Pulse 3樓303-304號舖 Swimming in luxury: Stepping into The Ocean felt like entering the Little Mermaid’s underwater kingdom; that is, if it was outfitted entirely in Hermes. The newest edition to Le Comptoir’s portfolio of beautiful restaurants, The Ocean is a sprawling 10,000 square-feet giant in Repulse Bay’s The Pulse. Subtle hints of the deep blue can be found throughout the venue in chandeliers reminiscent of iridescent bubbles, in the coral reef inspired furniture, and in the palm trees that sway their fronds like algae against the floor-to-ceiling windows. One could easily get bewitched watching the mesmerizing jellyfish blooms in the many built-in aquariums lining the dining room. The inspiration behind the menu is divided between two chefs - Executive Chef Agustin Balbi and Japanese cuisine chef Yukio Kimijima. Chef Agustin entices diners with his blend of Japanese and French creations while Chef Yukio specializes in the omakase experience at the UMI bar. Plenty of fish: As a whimsical twist, the menu is divided into four sections, each offering a sampling of dishes. There’s the three-course Horizon Lunch ($488), the five-course First Dive ($888), the eight-course Deep Blue ($1,188) and the gut-busting 10-course Ultramarine ($1,488). We dove into the First Dive menu, starting our meal with a “sea breeze” of creamy homemade tofu topped with walnuts and uni, seeped in ponzu, served on a plate adorned with coral and seaweed. As appetizers, the scallops crudo with seasonal vegetables was subtle yet 12
refreshing while the house smoked red snapper with chanterelle and pickled apple provided more pronounced flavours. The tuna tartare, accented by sharp Dijon mustard and creme fraiche against the coolness of sliced cucumber, was the favourite of the three. Warm appetizers included a seared scallop nestled over corn puree and shaved fennel, and a carrot gnocchi embellished with tender octopus and chimichurri. Thanks to the flavourful chimichurri sauce, the gnocchi was a clear favourite, as the scallop lacked contrast against the rather monotonous corn puree. As mains, the hearty wild mushroom tortellini with lobster confit and earthy maitake won thanks to its robust umami accents, while the pan-seared sea bass over wild rice was slightly overcooked. The sous-vide turbot with nori butter was a touch bland, and it was hard to detect any notes of nori in the sauce. All three of our desserts were beautifully presented, with top marks going to the chocolate dome encircling yogurt ice cream amidst splashes of pickled blackberries, although the tartiness of the yogurt didn’t quite complement the chocolate. The hazelnut crumble and sponge cake with orange looked enticing on paper, but lacked citrusy notes to offset the rather bland cake. The passion fruit, coconut foam and rum granita provided a refreshing, tropical end to our meal. Verdict: The Ocean is spectacular like a wellappointed stage, but we found ourselves waiting for the headliner dish that never arrived. It’s certainly an exquisite venue for impressing guests or for a special occasion, and although the dishes were, on the whole, well executed, just don’t expect the flavours to be memorable. This is one of those instances where it helps to be so pretty. CH
tried & tasted
available. The ‘Rednaxela’ ($125) was a creamy vial of a homemade Baileys-like mixture and ‘The Kai Tak’ ($135) looks in every way like a strawberry daiquiri, aside from the chili on the side and a quick sip that then blows the top off your taste buds and makes your head explode. It’s the kind of drink you dare each other to try.
New! Cima 3/F 239 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, 2395 2269 灣仔軒尼詩道239號3樓 What is it? We aren’t really sure. There’s a lot of beautiful fish tanks built into the bar to watch while you drink/eat their ‘Eatails’, there’s high end Japanese and gourmet Western dishes, and they’re open until 1am if you’re looking for a place to hang out later in the evening and listen to Japanese covers of Justin Bieber and Lady Gaga songs in a cutesy voice even higher than Bieber’s own.
The verdict: If you like sea urchin, gold leaf and meaty cocktails, you’ll love Cima. AW
www.afoodieworld.com // january 2016
The ‘Eatails’: We tend not to be a fan of the portmanteau, which sees the unnecessary combining of two words (except of course with celebrity couples when it is always absolutely necessary), but the combining of food and alcoholic drink into one drink/dish/word seems to be a trend that’s catching on. We, of course, love a bit of old school celery in a Bloody Mary and olives pierced into our martinis, but we are not at all sure about beef in our sangria. Although the mixologist assured us that it is a very tiny percentage of beef that resonates in the red wine-based libation, it’s still meat in our drink. The ‘Beef Sangria’ ($180) comes with a side of cold sliced beef dusted with dried miso and a lovely smattering of soy, garlic and sesame that leaves us wondering if perhaps the mixologist is better utilised within the walls of the kitchen. Especially when we view the ‘wine cooler horse carpaccio’ ($150) on the menu and breathe a collective sigh of relief when it isn’t
The food: An absolutely beautiful dish called the ‘Caprice Salad’ ($98) was a collection of colourful glasshouse tomatoes from Europe, each with a very different flavour and dressed with a light sesame sauce and edible flowers. The seafood carpaccio ($150) was a mixture of snapper, salmon, scallop, uni (sea urchin) and topped with shards of shark cartilage and gold leaf. The Japanese oysters ($68) were also topped with uni and the special rolls ($240) were a confusing mix of a large chunk of uni topped with gold leaf over tuna tartare and Kagoshima beef all on top a California roll that was tricky to ingest all in one, but when managed, had very competing flavours. The most obscenely large piece of foie gras we’ve ever seen sat atop the newest dish on the menu, a mushroom linguini in a rich sauce. The Boston lobster ($430) was fished directly out of their tanks and tossed in a rich sea urchin sauce that tasted succulent, fleshy and flavoursome. The lunch sets start at $100 for soup and a Wagyu beef burger and go up to $160 for a roasted lamb loin. So, there is an awful lot going on in this restaurant, both in the kitchen and behind the bar, and it might mess with your senses, and your digestion.
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tried & tasted
New! VEA 29-30F, Central, 198 Wellington Street, Central, 2711 8639 中環金融街8號香港四季酒店6樓 What is it? This integrated food and drink experience is led by executive chef Vicky Cheng (Foodie’s Chef of the Year in 2014) and awardwinning mixologist Antonio Lai from Quinary. VEA offers a single eight-course tasting menu where signature cocktails or fine wine are introduced with each course. The vibe: The 30th floor of The Wellington opens to an elegantly designed dining room where you watch as the culinary team operate a state-of-the-art open kitchen. The menu: The cocktail to food pairing, for the most part, works well, with cocktails that complement the food rather than the other way around; the food always comes first. The first cocktail was a vodka with dashi to bring alive the sea elements in the starter. Balanced with cucumber and lemon, it was unusual yet not overpowering, and far milder than we’d anticipated. A tuna belly tartare with Hokkaido uni and burnt cucumber jelly was texturally satisfying with the puffed rice and smooth fish. Next came hairy crab blended into a chawamushi that came to be one of our favourite components of the meal, especially the bright hit of kinome (young leaves of Japanese pepper shrub) which brought the whole thing to life. The cocktail used green grape vinegar that lends sweetness but remains staunchly tart. A tasty langoustine cooked a little too well was lost amongst the reduced langoustine head and tail sauce. It was served with a cocktail mixed with pinot noir, lemon and agave. The 14
Japanese Taiyouran egg with truffle, parmesan and caviar was one of the most memorable and indulgent dishes of the night. It’s served with a truffled Chinese doughnut (you tiao) and a warm mushroom cocktail infused with whisky which, at the beginning, exploded with flavours. A French pigeon aged for 12 days is served after being sous vide and marinated in mulled wine for 48 hours. The finale is an Australian M6 Wagyu, served in both filet and braised short rib form, with a sauce of fresh gingko nuts alongside yuba (tofu) chips. A mild lingonberry cognac, green tea and champagne cocktail before a longan, oolong, honey and rum cocktail emerges to signal the first dessert’s arrival. The sweet: Dessert starts with a lemon ice cream, raspberry with pistachio cream, pistachio powder, meringue chips and frozen raspberry mousse which was half the table’s favourite, and a carbonised milk ice cream with puffed quinoa and a duck egg which has been frozen and then shaved. A combination of rosehip hibiscus, apple, citrus and gin act as a cleansing digestif. The petit fours came in the form of Earl Grey orange madeleines (heralded by a most heavenly scent whafting from the ovens), Japanese mochi filled with marscapone, raspberry jelly and toffee caramel in an edible wrapper. Verdict: An innovative restaurant that meshes two of the largest homegrown culinary characters who have managed to harmonise drinks and foods in flawless synchronicity. There is a little way to go to achieve the perfect cocktail to meal pairing, but given it was the third week of operation when we dined, we have high hopes for one of the most eagerly anticipated openings of 2015. KH
tried & tasted
NEW MENU
Caprice 6/F Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance Street, Central, 3196 8888 中環金融街8號香港四季酒店6樓 What’s new? Fresh, seasonal, simple ingredients are madeover in the Caprice kitchen by the skillful hands of Chef Fabrice, making a fine dining tasting menu fit for any kind of diner, but of particular delight to those who omit eating things with a face from their diets. In addition to the outstanding food, a trifecta of factors including extremely well paired wines, breath-taking views and what is undoubtedly some of the best service in Hong Kong makes eating at Caprice a jovial experience. Though the seasonal menu changes (with the, erm, seasons), everything we tasted could not be faulted, so you can be fairly sure the food will be outstanding any time of the year.
The sweets: We only have good things to say about the desserts, especially with the flawless use of the autumnal fig. Fig and cheesecake with a speculos biscuit was a highlight. The verdict: Vegetarian options often mean slumming it when out with omnivorous friends; being relegated to options that usually swap between ‘garden salad’ and ‘mushroom risotto’ with the occasional ‘tomato penne’ thrown in. Low-on-taste, plant-based dishes won’t be found at Caprice, which is a palace for vegetarians. KH
twitter.com/foodiehk // january 2016
The food: The amuse bouche was a purple sweet potato mousse with lentils of an exquisite texture and resplendent colour. The next course was the second favourite of the lot; a seasonal mushroom pie served tableside, with as much respect and finesse as one would serve a prime rib. The flaky pastry’s aroma arrives first and once it is sliced into, releases an even more enticing mushroom essence. An unusual combination of coffee foam and pumpkin veloute
makes an appearance, working well together and complemented by little pockets of deepfried dough filled with Hokkaido pumpkin and black truffle. Hokkaido pumpkin is a lot sweeter than an average butternut, and when coupled with the black truffle, gave an unusual yet very pleasant pungency that almost mimicked jackfruit. Finishing the lighter courses was the les légumes fraîcheur, which consists of raw and cooked seasonal vegetables with mushrooms on a bed of caponata. An extremely flavoursome Barigoule artichoke dish came next infused with saffron and sweet shallots. Our favourite was the spelt risotto with shaved truffle. The chewy grains were texturally satisfying and managed to give full attention to the truffles. Many shades of delicious, and though we were entirely full by this stage, we pressed on because it was just that good.
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tried & tasted
alive like salt, sugar, lime and vinegar. This did not stop us from throwing back, to the point of self-induced unconsciousness, many plates of yellow chicken ($158), spiced tofu ($88), pork meatballs ($128) and hedgehog mushrooms ($78).
New! Le Garçon Saigon G/F, 12-18 Wing Fung Street, Wan Chai 灣仔永豐街12-18號地下 What is it? When Bao La came to Hong Kong, it was to take up the mantle as sous chef at Ho Lee Fook, which is now one of Hong Kong’s most popular restaurants. La now opens his first solo venture under the flag of Black Sheep Restaurants, with the culinary expertise of one of his most esteemed consultants – his mother, Mrs La. What you won’t get: Do not arrive to Le Garcon Saigon looking for pho or banh mi. Instead what you will find is something far more lively and thoughtful. What you will get: The flavours are big– almost every dish comes alongside a bevvy of fresh herbs and lettuce, rice paper rolls and condiments for dipping. Using only natural seasonings, each skewer and dish is packed with plenty of flavour. Whether using the dehydrayted stems of herbs or time honoured sauces coming from Mama La, this team is delivering some seriously tasty food. Just so you know: It is worth noting that you will be pounding water back post-dinner because the food is full of things that bring other flavours 16
This is how you do it: Get your hands dirty, tear off shiso leaves and Vietamese mint, stuff your roll with lettuce, pickled carrots, and vermicelli noodles. Dip it into the nuoc mam peanut sauce for chicken and pineapple and anchovy sauce for beef. Play with different combinations; the formula stays the same for all grilled items so go in with the understanding that your night will be all about rice paper rolls and you’ll be well equipped. There are also some excellent stir fry dishes like the stir fried leeks, bean sprouts, green chives and crispy garlic ($78) the banh xeo, chorizo, bean sprouts and prawns ($118) and the housemade vietnamese charcuterie, pickles and bread ($168). Verdict: Without overcomplicating things, the team have managed to keep flavours robust and have provided an interesting deviation from the typical Vietnamese fare. The atmosphere is guaranteed to be buzzy and with a price per head averaging under $400, we find it hard to fault Le Garcon Saigon. KH
tried and tipsy
Foxglove 2/F, Printing House, 6 Duddell Street, Central, 2116 8949 中環金融街8號香港四季酒店6樓 What is it? Foxglove, a flower that is medicinally good for the heart but can also be lethal if ingested incorrectly - much like our good friend alcohol, provides a most fitting name for this new Central speakeasy. Especially given their relationship with Fox umbrellas that have been ‘keeping you dry since 1868’ which adorn the storefront façade. Much like their other venue Mrs. Pound hidden behind a chop shop, Foxglove is hidden behind an umbrella store with a secret entrance.
The drinks: An impressive range of rare whiskies and Cognacs with some boasting fifty-year-old vintages where the distilleries have now closed their doors. Bartender Bikal Ghale says it’s like
The food: Bar snacks include an IPA crusted fish and chips, pesto bruschetta, and kimchi and beef tartare. The more substantial dinner menu includes lobster tagliatelle, seared Kobe steak and roasted Guinea fowl. Hidden gem: So well hidden, only those that know will be able to get past the umbrellas. AW
twitter.com/foodiehk // january 2016
The place: Old school airplane-inspired décor with lots of leather and marble, sophisticated booths and gold cutlery set the tone. Low ceiling cosiness and the warmth of wood panelling and flooring, with a large separate room built to mimic a train car on the Orient Express; it’s cool, secluded with the feel of a private club. Much like Mrs. Pound, the theme is based around a somewhat unnecessary character that likes to listen to jazz, smoke cigars and drink whisky.
‘sipping history’. But they are keeping it current too with creative cocktails and reinventions such as the negroni by using a blend of Suntory single malts as well as infusing whisky with tonka beans and blood orange. Their mixes pay homage to prohibition and the hidden rooms and live jazz represent a Golden Age long past.
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food war
Mango Mochi Munching BEOSICTE CH
ABERDEEN
HENNESSY ROAD
1 Hing Wo Street, Aberdeen
Shop 1, 311 Hennessy Road, Wanchai
Price: $11
Price: $12
The mango: More on the sweet side than some
The mango: This was the best of all the
tarter versions. It was not robust in flavour but
contenders. A beautifully dark orang fruit with
seemed fresh nevertheless.
a nice sourness to complement its immediate
The mochi: Denser, sweeter, thicker and more strongly rice flavoured than the others we’ve tried. This helped the overall taste, as the
sweetness. Possibly a tad on the overripe side, but with mango, that is often the best time to eat it.
mango was less flavoursome and needed a bit
The mochi: It held together very well with
of bolstering. The mochi itself was velvety and
a solid exterior that made the whole dessert
satisfying.
easier to eat. There was a nice powdery finish to
The mango mochi: Obscurely tucked away on
this long squishy bun.
the back streets of Aberdeen, this cornerstore
The mango mochi: We preferred this version’s
pumps out plump mochi at $11 per pop. We
contrasting flavours of the sweet exterior and
also adore the attentive service of the purveyor.
the sweet then sour interior. The harmony of
The verdict: For anyone who finds themselves hankering after a mochi in Aberdeen. Foodie rating:
the thin dough and thick mango made for the perfect mochi balance. The verdict: An absolutely matchless mochi. Foodie rating:
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Is there much difference between the mango mochis of the world? We seek to find the answer and travel the breadth of Hong Kong to sample four versions of this sweet treat. Who will reign supreme?
CHEUNG CHAU Street stall on the corner of Chung Hing San Street and Tai Hing Tai Road, Price: $8
LOVE.MOCHI.LOVE 316 Jaffe Road, Wanchai Price: $11 The mango: The sweet aroma of the fruit was
The mango: The fruit in this one was a very
the first thing that hit us when we opened the
pale yellow, extremely sweet and quite stringy.
bag. This may have been because the mochi
The mochi: This shorter, thicker version had a beautiful dough that was sweet, glutinous with and heavier than the other contenders. The mango mochi: Harder to eat, this one was a bit messy, but it had also travelled the furthest and therefore endured more on its trip. The verdict: For those with a sweet, sweet
Foodie rating:
out the back. The fruit was on the overripe side with a deep yellow-orange colour. The mochi: A very thick dough on the bottom with a very floury residue. This mochi stuck around on the tongue afterwards and although it had a good consistency it didn’t have much flavour. The mango mochi: This one was more mochi than anything else and although not overall our favourite, the texture of the mochi was very pleasant. The verdict: For those that like their mochi with a bit of mango. Foodie rating:
www.afoodieworld.com // january 2016
tooth.
didn’t fully cover the mango and it was seeping
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chewin’ the fat
Chewin’ the fat with...
Katharina Unger Last December, Foodie looked into the future and eating insects was one of the food trends predicted to hit our plates. Now, the time has come - edible insect hives have arrived in Hong Kong. Katharina Unger, founder of Livin Farms tells us how to get our crispy critters
What’s the premise of your edible insect hives? Our “Hive” let’s you grow healthy and sustainable food in the form of insects in your home. With our functional desktop Hive for edible insects you can grow 200-500g of proteinrich super food mealworms. This replaces about the same amount of protein that you would otherwise consume in 500g of meat, animal products or other protein foods. [When you] feed your mealworms sustainably on vegetable scraps from your kitchen, you always know 100 per cent what you’re eating. Why should people start snacking on insects? Mealworms are healthy and good for the planet! They combine the best of meat and plant-based proteins: with a similar protein content to red meats like beef and the beneficial 20
amino-acid profile of tofu. They are also packed with vitamins and enzymes to keep you healthy. Our design-driven approach and innovative technology empowers you to produce your own food with an efficient, pleasant and clean process. How did you come up with the idea? It all started when I left my little home village on the border between Austria and Hungary to venture into the world as an industrial designer. I ended up in Hong Kong where I realized that most of the food there was imported and almost no one knew where it came from. That´s why I started to investigate the current food system and looked into alternatives. Insects were one of the future proteins that were very promising and were perfect solutions for people to grow their food
independently at home. My first project and design was called “Farm432” and was a design rearing the black soldier fly larvae. This took me all around the world working on insect breeding in Africa and Hawaii. After more prototyping and a beta manufacturing trial for a research institute in Malaysia earlier this year, I founded Livin Farms, dedicated only to growing edible insects. My long-time friend and design partner Julia Kaisinger joined the team as a co-founder and the redesign and development of the Hive followed. What interest have you had so far? We collected over 93 000 USD in three weeks and sold over 130 units of our Hive! We have seen great interest so far in our Hive and once we start this food revolution we expect to see this in many more households all around the world. What kind of maintenance is required? When you receive your Hive you also receive our specially designed starter pack of mealworms. You will place these mealworms in the pupation compartment in the top drawer, add in some oats and vegetable scraps, and then the mealworms will mature into adult beetles in a few days. These adults begin mating, once you
Insects were one of the future proteins that were very promising...
see tiny mealworms in the drawer, you can begin feeding oats and vegetable scraps. From then on, every week the mealworms will be lowered using our mechanisms. Once the mealworms reach the sixth drawer, you can begin your weekly harvest. This entire process of populating your whole Hive for a weekly full harvest should take approximately eight to nine weeks.
What are some of the reactions you’ve had so far? People are sometimes a bit skeptical in the beginning but once they taste our samples and understand that insects are a future food and that they are super healthy they are very quickly on board! Reactions have been actually very positive!
www.afoodieworld.com // january 2016
What kind of flavour do the mealworms have? We have done lots of taste and cooking experiments. Their taste is quite neutral with a bit of a nutty flavor. This enables them to be mixed into all sorts of recipes. Make them crispy or sweet as a snack, or savory as an insect meat patty for your burger.
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The InsideTract The importance of maintaining good digestive health is a hot topic on the lips of foodies these days. With every possible food type at our fingertips, eating a balance of nutritious dishes to offset the constantly tempting indulgences around every corner is something every food-lover needs to consider. This begins where the food ends up, in the gut. Alicia Walker takes a look inside.
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the inside tract
The American Gut project puts the microbes of people around the globe under a microscope to learn how diet affects digestive health. Their team of experts on the human genome have collected stool samples from various countries to dissect the information gathered in the hopes of being able to specifically advise which type of diet is best for each different individual. Professor Rob Knight of American Gut explains the initiative: “The American Gut Project brings technology we developed in the Human Microbiome Project to let anyone find out about their own microbes and participate in human microbiome research. Microbes differ substantially in different parts of the globe. Broadly speaking, microbes are single-celled organisms (bacteria, archaea, yeasts and other single-celled fungi and other microbial eukaryotes like Giardia), and, according to some definitions, viruses. Understanding why we differ in microbes may help explain health differences around the world. Microbes in the gut play many important roles in digestion, synthesis of nutrients, interaction with the immune system, etc.”
So far, The American Gut Project has had samples from 30 different countries, with the majority coming from the US, UK and Australia as well as South America and Africa. Knight tells of some of the study’s findings so far: “We have found that microbes are associated with all kinds of variables including how much you exercise, how much you sleep at night, and how many different kinds of plants you eat. With future work, it will help us learn which diet is best for each individual based in the microbiome.”
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the inside tract
At the moment, Knight says it is difficult to ascertain what a healthy sample looks like, as “understanding the complex rules that separate health from disease in microbial communities is a major challenge in the field, although machine learning techniques are helping substantially.” And there isn’t a chart of good and bad microbes; in fact microbes can’t really be labelled this way, “in the sense that most people exposed to a “bad” microbe won’t get sick, and not everyone benefits from the “good” microbes. However, there are some microbes that are better or worse on average, just as some plants are more or less likely to be crops versus weeds.” Knight lists some of the well-known health problems associated with an unhealthy gut, “inflammatory bowel disease, irritable bowel syndrome, celiac disease, depression, obesity, atherosclerosis, colon cancer, and many others.” Yet there isn’t a report on what the best way to look after our microbiomes since, “this is still a topic of active research. The guidelines so far, e.g. eat a diverse set of plants, eat fermented foods, avoid foods that are rich in both fat and carbohydrates, avoid processed foods, make sense, but are more explanations for things you probably knew anyway. What is exciting is the prospect for personalized recommendations. [We should all be eating more] diverse plant products and live fermented foods.
Dr. David Perlmutter is a Neurologist and Fellow of the American College of Nutrition and has become known for his work on the relationship between the intestinal microbes and the brain and how dietary choices can help protect not only your body, but also your brain.
Through your research what have you found links gut health with certain diseases? For the first time in history, degenerative conditions have surpassed infectious diseases in terms of what compromises our health globally. The two most important mechanisms in degenerative conditions are inflammation and problems with immune regulation. As it turns out, the gut bacteria play fundamental roles in regulating both the level of our immune response, as well as inflammation. This puts the gut, and specifically the gut bacteria, centre stage in terms of the most pernicious medical conditions that now affect humanity. How has the bacteria in our guts changed over the past centuries? Scientific research now has the ability to very specifically characterise not only the gut bacteria of our ancestors from thousands of years ago, but also the bacteria that lived in their mouths. What is clear is that the diversity and types of bacteria of our ancestors was dramatically different from what is seen in humans today living in Western
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the inside tract
cultures. What’s even more remarkable and compelling is the finding that the gut bacteria of our ancestors is actually quite similar to humans in rural environments living today. Is it through processed foods, pesticides and man-made foods that our guts have changed for the worse? These are certainly important factors. There is no question that food is by far and away the most important issue in terms of the detrimental changes to the gut bacteria that are now observed. Other important factors include medications, especially the dramatic overusage of broad-spectrum antibiotics, not only in humans, but also in raising animal livestock. In fact, about 75 per cent of the antibiotics used in America are actually used in livestock. Do people of certain countries have better gut health than others? I don’t think anyone has yet been able to specifically define the parameters for a ”better gut” in terms of the bacteria. What we do know is that diversity is a very positive attribute in terms of the gut bacteria as it relates to health and disease resistance. And what is clear is that we in Western cultures certainly have far less diversity of gut bacteria when compared to less developed countries, as well as compared to our ancestors. What’s the best way to look after our microbiome? Is there a protocol or diet you recommend? First, it’s important to recognize what represents the biggest threats to the
human microbiome. As mentioned, diet is on the top of the list. Simple sugars, over abundance of carbohydrates, artificial sweeteners, and lack of dietary fiber, all threaten the gut bacteria. Medications like non-steroid, anti-inflammatory drugs, acid blocking drugs, and antibiotics, to name a few, pose significant risk to microbiome. Adding back prebiotic fibre rich foods like jicama, Jerusalem artichoke, dandelion greens, and asparagus, all help to nurture good gut bacteria. Prebiotic fibre like acacia gum is also widely available at health food stores. We are also seeing some high quality probiotics in health food stores that can also help foster gut health by nurturing the right kind of gut bacteria.
Can gut health affect our emotions? There is no question that gut health can have a direct effect upon emotions. Some 50 per cent
facebook.com/foodiehk // january 2016
What should we all be eating more of? Fermented foods like kimchi, cultured yogurt, kefir, and fermented sauerkraut are rich in good, health sustaining, probiotic bacteria. Foods like those mentioned above are rich in prebiotic fibre and nurture good gut bacteria. As such, they pave the way for health, and disease resistance. I am a big believer in the value of a good probiotic supplement. While there are approximately 10,000 species of bacteria residing in the human intestines, we do know that certain species of bacteria have powerful, health promoting activity as has been confirmed in well-respected scientific literature.
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the inside tract
of individuals suffering from inflammatory bowel disease suffer from depression. When you recognize that the gut bacteria manufactures almost all of the brain chemicals that play a role in mood, like serotonin and dopamine, it’s no surprise that changes in gut bacteria can have a dramatic effect upon how we feel moment to moment. How did you become so passionate about this subject? My training has been in neurology. As such, over the years I have been generally empty handed when it came to having any significant solutions to many of the problems my patients were suffering from. This new understanding of the gut bacteria and its role in inflammation is extremely empowering for me since so many of the conditions I deal with Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease, multiple sclerosis, and even autism are inflammatory. The broader picture is one that recognizes that even issues like coronary artery disease, diabetes, and cancer are also, at their foundation, inflammatory. So when we understand that the gut bacteria regulate inflammation, and recognize how inflammation throws an incredibly wide net in terms of disease processes, it really makes you want to do everything you can to improve the gut situation in order to have a meaningful impact on these pernicious disease processes.
Unfortunately we’ve been given a lot of wrong information about dietary fat. But the good news is that nutritional research is finally turning things around, gratefully!
What are some of the most important dietary decisions that people can make for their children to ensure healthy gut health? Parents need to recognize that one of the biggest threats to gut health, and therefore brain health, in children is the type of foods kids are eating. Diets that are high in sugar, low in fat and low in fibre pose a significant threat to the health of the gut bacteria and therefore the lifelong health of the individual. And while it’s not specifically a dietary issue, one of the most challenging threats to children’s gut health in terms of their bacteria is the incredible overusage of antibiotics in our culture. It seems like every time a kid has a sniffle or cough they end in a clinic where you can be sure a prescription for an antibiotic is going to be written. What about for adults? Adults need to focus on getting more prebiotic fibre into their diets to help nurture good gut bacteria. It’s been estimated that our hunter-gatherer ancestors consumed about 125 grams of prebiotic fibre each day whereas the typical American consumes only around five grams. We’ve got to get over the notion that dietary fat is somehow threatening our health and welcome healthful fat back to the table like olive oil, coconut oil, nuts and seeds, and wild fish, to name just a few. Unfortunately we’ve been given a lot of wrong information about dietary fat. But the good news is that nutritional research is finally turning things around, gratefully!
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the inside tract
Dr. Perlmutter has released several books on the subject, as well as a recipe book with meals that can improve gut ecology and brain function. He shares two easy recipes to make at home:
GRILLED PARMESAN TOMATOES Serves: 4 for lunch or dinner Ingredients: •
4 large ripe but firm tomatoes
•
6 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
•
1 tbsp chopped fresh basil
•
2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted salt and pepper
Method: 1.
Preheat and oil the grill or preheat the oven to 375°F.
2.
Cut each tomato in half crosswise.
3.
Combine the cheese and basil in a small bowl. Spoon equal portions of the mixture on the cut side of each tomato half. Drizzle with melted butter and season with salt and pepper to taste.
4.
Place the tomatoes, cut-side up, on the preheated grill. Cover and grill for 3 minutes. uncover and grill until the top
EGGS BENEDICT WITH ZUCCHINI PANCAKES Serves: 4 for breakfast Ingredients: • 1 tbsp white vinegar • 4 extra-large eggs, at room temperature • 4 slices Canadian bacon • 4 zucchini pancakes • 1 recipe easy hollandaise sauce • 1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
is bubbling, another minute or so. Alternatively, place the tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet in the preheated oven and bake until the top is bubbling, about 10 minutes (if you want the tops to brown, preheat the broiler and place the grilled tomatoes under the broiler for 30 seconds or so). 5.
Remove from the grill or oven and serve.
facebook.com/foodiehk // january 2016
Method: 1. Preheat and oil the grill or preheat the oven to 275°F. Heat about 3 inches of water in a large, shallow saucepan over medium heat until bubbles form around the edge. Add the vinegar. 2. In another saucepan of similar size, heat 3 inches of water to 130°F on a candy thermometer. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm. 3. Working quickly with one egg at a time, carefully break each egg into a small custard cup and then gently slide the egg from the cup into the barely simmering vinegar-water. When all of the eggs have been added, cook until the whites are just set but the yolks are still very loose, about 2 minutes. 4. Using a slotted spoon, carefully lift the barely cooked eggs, one at a time, and place them into the 130°F water. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes. You should, from time to time, check the temperature of the water. If it falls below 130°F, slowly add enough boiling water to bring the temperature back up 5. Place the Canadian bacon in a large nonstick frying pan over medium- high heat. Fry, turning occasionally, until just lightly browned around the edges, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and place on a baking sheet in the preheated oven to keep warm if the eggs or pancakes aren’t done yet. 6. Place a warm pancake in the center of each plate and top with a slice of Canadian bacon. Using a slotted spoon, lift the poached eggs, one at a time, from the water and pat gently with a clean kitchen towel to remove excess water. Place an egg on top of the bacon (if the edges of the eggs are a bit ragged, carefully trim them with a small knife or kitchen scissors). 7. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the hollandaise sauce on top of each egg, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve immediately.
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Foodie’s Guide to California Tower Discover what’s up in LKF’s reinvented temple of gastronomy For almost three decades, the iconic California Tower has been a hub of fine dining, entertainment and nightlife. This year will see Lan Kwai Fong’s premier landmark revamped with brand new restaurants, bars, clubs and lifestyle brands. The building has been softly unlocking its doors for the last few months, but it’s now officially open and full of foodie fun
1/F - 2/F - Fovea, 2264 0110 Fovea, which was named after the region in your eye where your visual acuity is highest, seeks to bring new perspective to the restaurant and nightlife scene in Lan Kwai Fong. Fovea utilises a two-floor concept; the first floor serving as its club space, and its second floor reserved for dining. Diners will be pleased to find modern twists to traditional Cantonese dishes with a focus on highquality ingredients.
UG/F - Jinjuu, 3755 4868 Branching from London, Jinjuu is a modern Korean restaurant that was created by Iron Chef UK Judy Joo (a French-trained KoreanAmerican Londoner). The restaurant offers Korean dishes with an innovative twist such Korean fried chicken, bibimbaps, and Korean burger sliders. In addition, Jinjuu will have a large selection of cocktails (their signature being a kimchi bloody mary) as well as a large (the largest in HK in fact) selection of soju.
G/F - Ciao Chow, 2344 0005 This cutely named Italian family-style restaurant revolves around the main concept of authentic Neapolitan pizza, similar to the 800 Degrees Pizza in the US. There is always room for more delicious pizza in this city. They open early in the morning to serve Italian coffee and serve a variety of craft beers late into the night.
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25/F - CÉ LA VIE, 3700 2300 Situated on the top three penthouse floors of California Tower, each serves a different purpose: floor one - dining, floor two clubbing, floor three – drinking at the outdoor bar complete with a jacuzzi. They are also famous for their desserts made by celebrity pastry chef Jason Licker.
23/F - Townhouse, 2344 2366 From GAIA Group, the creators behind Glasshouse, Greenhouse, Isola, the new Townhouse is famous for their creative, modern cocktails and Asian-fusion dishes. Their desserts such as the ‘Candy Crush’ and ‘Egg Waffle Fondue’ are popular too.
18/F - PURE (Nood Food), 8200 0032 Providing organic and healthy supplements ranging from a selection of protein shakes, superfood juices, fresh bites such as salads and sandwiches, and a selection of fresh fruits to charge up before/after your workout.
7/F - Porterhouse by Laris, 2522 6366 Celebrity Chef David Laris makes his mark in HK with a top-of-the-line steak menu. Unsurprisingly, this steakhouse is famous for their porterhouse cut, along with other local favourites such as the tomahawk. Additionally they also feature a vast selection of mustards and salt to complement and pair with your meaty meal.
6/F - Ore-no Kappou, 2328 3302 www.afoodieworld.com // january 2016
Michelin-starred chef Ginza Okamoto expanded his reach of award-winning Japanese cuisine to Hong Kong (it’s their first-ever restaurant to open outside of Japan). They offer a large list of lunch sets and a Michelin-calibre menu for dinner, carrying prestigious Japanese delicacies such as Toro, A5 wagyu beef, and uni, all for an affordable price.
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Foodie Forays New York Keshia Hannam eats her way around The Big Apple
Restaurants, food trucks, markets, pop ups, private kitchens, New York has it all. Artisan stores have followed in the wake of the prolific hipster-diners, their founders the likes of Mast Brothers Chocolate (the food incarnation of men who live in Brooklyn and their beards), and Four & Twenty Blackbirds who make some of the best ‘homemade’ pies in the city. Between these, the mind-bending array of health/vegan/raw emporiums as well as the old classics, there are few cities which can rival the vibrancy of New York. Arrive 10am either JFK, LeGuardia or Newark Allow one hour to Midtown Manhattan (either Grand Central Terminal or Port Authorty). Taxis usually charge a flat rate of US$52 plus tolls. Shuttles operate on a frequent basis and cost between US$16 – 25. 12 noon Brunch in New York is a cosy affair, and nowhere more so than at Buvette. With a sister restaurant in Paris and inspired by the traditions of Europe, Chef Jody Williams and her partner Sodi serve up tartinette with salted butter and anchovies alongside an américain and café au lait, all charmingly written in French. Buvette 42 Grove Street, West Village Open daily from 9am, fyi@ilovebuvette.com, ilovebuvette.com 2:30pm Scoot over to Washington Square Park, where singers and musicians flocked in the 1940s to play folk music. Now, the park provides an array of art and more edible options like caramelized nuts 34
and fresh produce. Take a pit stop at By Chloe, a new vegan café that opened in the summer and now consistently hosts long queues of hungry plant-loving fiends. The raw vanilla bean chia seed pudding (US$4.95), although not unique, is extremely tasty, as are the constantly changing vegan cookies and dairy free ice creams. Absolutely recommended is the green hummus (hued with spinach (US$5.95), matcha kelp noodles (US$5.95) and Southwestern quinoa salad (US$6.95)). By Chloe 185 Bleecker Street, Open from 10am to 10pm info@bychefchloe.com, bychefchloe.com
foodie forays
5:00pm Wander around the West Village which speaks of a Bohemian past even if the tranquility has been somewhat cleaved by the throngs of tourists asking where Carrie Bradshaw lives and for directions to ‘Central Perk’. The Whitney Museum of American Art is worth a look, and conveniently sits next to the Highline, a 1.45 mile long elevated linear park that provides the perfect pathway to watch the sun set over the Hudson. Whitney Museum of American Art Gansevoort St, New York, Closed Tuesday, open Sunday to Thursday 10:30am to 6:00pm and until 10pm Friday and Saturday 6:30pm A food tour around Chelsea Market, one of the original indoor food halls, will give you a true snapshot of New York food culture in one, avenuewide destination. At Los Tacos No. 1 order the famous al pastor pork taco, which pairs shaved, spit-roasted meat with a tangy pineapple salsa or the nopal (grilled cactus) - it just might be some of the best Mexican outside of Mexico. A heartier option is the superb pasta tasting menu at Italian stall Giovanni Rana, which might rival those at Little Italy/Eataly. The menu allows you to sample a variety of homemade pastas. Leave room for Doughnuttery, a doughnut purveyor all the way at the back of the market. Try the Urban Monkey or the PB&J and then pair your rounds with a latte from the nearby Ninth Street Espresso kiosk. Chelsea Market 75 9th Ave, New York, 212-652-2110 Open 7am to 9pm Monday to Saturday and 8am to 8pm Sunday, chelseamarket.com
CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikipedia, Whitney Museum of American Art
8:30pm Meander back down to West Houston and catch a film at Film Forum, a nonprofit movie theater which began in 1970 as an alternative screening space for independent films, with 50 folding chairs, one projector and a US$19,000 annual budget. Today, Film Forum is a 3-screen cinema that opens 365 days a year, with 250,000 annual admissions, 5,000 members and a $5 million operating budget. An Eden for indie-film lovers, Film Forum plays an international array of films that exhibit diverse social, political, historical and cultural realities. Film Forum 209 West Houston St. west of 6th Ave, 212-727-8110, filmforum.org Tickets: $7.50 Member $13.00 Regular 11:00pm
Employees Only 510 Hudson St, 212-242-3021, employeesonlynyc.com **Baby Grand 161 Lafayette St, 212-219-8110, babygrandnyc.com
www.afoodieworld.com // january 2016
Finish the night at Employees Only, one of the most reputed speakeasies in NYC. Celebrating their 10th anniversary in late 2014, EO is one of the elder children of New York’s modern cocktail revival (in company with the likes of Death & Co., Milk & Honey and PDT). The philosophy of the service here is connection. Eye contact is key when ordering, and means your Manhattan cocktail (Rittenhouse Rye stirred with Italian Vermouth, Grand Marnier and a few dashes of Angostura Bitters) and Amelia (Aylesbury Duck Vodka and St. Germain Elderflower liqueur shaken with puréed blackberries and fresh lemon juice) will be made with the kind of passion which might make it the best you have tasted.
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foodie forays
**If you are feeling up to it, hit Baby Grand after Employees Only. This tiny karaoke bar is open until at least 1am Mondays to Thursdays and then until 4am on Fridays. You’ll often chance encounter Broadway performers kicking it here on their days off.
9:30am
1:30pm
Café Select is a casual Swiss spot with an European rail-station-restaurant vibe and a hidden late-night space in the back. It is also where you will find many New York natives on any given Saturday or Sunday. The avocado toast is to die for—not on the regular menu but always on the specials board. Also recommended is the croque madame and a latte with their homemade almond milk.
212 Lafayette St, 212-925-9322 cafeselectnyc.com
Reserve the afternoon for arepas and vegan doughnuts. Arepas are best had at hole-in-the-wall arepa bar Caracas in the East Village, and for the less familiar, the Venezuelan sandwiches are dense yet spongy corn-flour rounds, filled with a range of delicious things from avocado to blackbeans, to pulled pork. Go hunting for the Cinnamon Snail–a vegan food truck which makes all variety of vegan street food (hello chipotle seitan breakfast burritos) but specialises in plant-based doughnuts, which sing to the tune of raspberry cheesecake doughnuts and pumpkin pie flavours.
11:30am
Caracas
Because you are doing things right, Russ & Daughters must be visited for the best bagel and lox you’ll ever have. A food that provided sustenance to poorer Jewish immigrants is now staunchly branded “New York food”. Bagels and lox (lox comes from the Proto-Germanic lakhs, which means “salmon”) have moved past being sequestered to ‘Jewish food’ because so many people identify with it and it covers a multitude of sins; Saturday brunch, food you eat when you get married, easy and quick lunch, or the food you eat when you sit shivah (week-long mourning period in Judaism for firstdegree relatives). It’s an institution, and must be eaten at Russ & Daughters.
93 1/2 E 7th St., 718.218.6050 caracasarepabar.com/manhattan
Café Select
Russ & Daughters 127 Orchard St, New York, 212-475-4881 russanddaughterscafe.com 36
foodie forays
$85) yet ensures an unforgettable experience. Expect to see curried zucchini and almonds with sunflower seeds, raspberries and onion-bacon broth or perhaps a black dirt carrot cutlet with smoked apple, yogurt, spinach and dill. Blue Hill 75 Washington Place, 212-539-1776, bluehillfarm.com/dine/new-york 10:00pm
4:00pm In an attempt to remedy the body, head to Juice Press on 1050 3rd Avenue for excellent juices, smoothies and raw foods. Get the Heaven on Earth—almond milk, banana, dates, almond butter, cinnamon, cacao–which genuinely is as close to the heavenly realms as one can reach by means of juice. Take the angelic beverage and stroll 15 minutes to Luke’s Lobster at the bottom of The Plaza Hotel next to Central Park. Iconic and perfectly composed, this lobster roll is filled with generous amounts of traceable, sustainable seafood from fisheries along the gulf of Maine crammed into a warm, crispy yet soft, brioche roll and topped with a seasoning that is a blend of celery salt, thyme, oregano and black pepper. Take that and your delicious smoothie and traipse through Central Park.
A rooftop bar in New York that isn’t filled with tourists can be hard to find at times. This doesn’t mean the magic of the Manhattan rooftops should be missed out on however, and from Blue Hill grab a cab to Refinery Hotel’s rooftop on West 38th Street. The rooftop is very ‘New York’ and with a gaspinducing view of the Empire State Building, so stay here until the night creatures arrive and then catch a cab five minutes down the road to Birreria (next to Madison Square Park, on top of Eataly) Take in all the lights of the Chrysler Building and the Empire State with a rarely spotted Moretti Bionda on draft or an Italian wine poured by the carafe or quartino. Refinery 63 W 38th St, 646-664-0310 refineryhotelnewyork.com Birreria 200 Fifth Avenue, 23rd Street, 212-937-8910 eatalyny.com/eat/birreria
Juice Press 1050 3rd Avenue, 212-777-0034, juicepress.com Luke’s Lobster
7:30pm If you looked up farm-to-table in the dictionary, a picture of Blue Hill in Greenwich Village would come up. Chef Dan Barber has a cult following among chefs and foodies, and his menu is not too much of a splurge (three courses will be around
facebook.com/foodiehk // january 2016
The Plaza Food Hall, 1 West 59th Street 646-755-3227 lukeslobster.com
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The Event
Impress the Parents
Yalun Tu has successfully rounded the bases of the first three dates and now it’s time for the next step. Traditional Chinese at Lung King Heen is a sure fire way to impress his sweetheart’s parents on their visit to Hong Kong
Here’s the deal with families: they’ll decide whether you’re right for their daughter/son within the first 90 seconds. If you get a check, you gotta stay on your game to keep that check. If it’s a strike, then get a shovel because you’ll be digging yourself out of that hole for, potentially, a lifetime. Dinners with parents should be planned with the utmost care. A slightly blasé date night or even an anniversary can be overcome with thoughtful gestures afterwards but a botched in-law dinner will relegate you to Sunday family brunches amongst aunties or Christmas stories when Uncle Tony gets too drunk. Be that guy – I mean the planner, not drunk Uncle T. So I’m choosing Lung King Heen as my top culinary choice for first parental dinners. It has the following qualities: • Excellent food • Good service I chose a lunch for the review because it’s not wallet busting and it provides a good backdrop for a first lunch with the family. Dinners are too binary 38
and can really head south, especially if you find out they don’t drink. But lunches are a light breezy affair. Let’s get to the meal: Chef Dim Sum Selection LKH, famous for their dim sum, is the only threeMichelin star Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong and located in the Four Seasons. Each morsel is elegantly nestled in small steamer baskets. I’m a
meeting = successful / Tokyo = exotic, getting lost = bumbling / humble / charming. Are you taking notes?)
huge fan of all things dumplings. The consistency of the skin is just right and as opposed to many similarly nice dim sum spots, you’re not struck by an oily feeling. It’s light and fresh. Soup of the Day Palate cleanser. So easy to drink I forgot to take a picture. Also it changes regularly so like, do you want a picture when whatever you order will be different? No. You don’t.
Fried Rice with Shrimp, BBQ Pork and Preserved Vegetable A wonderful final dish before the desserts. The rice is chock-full of flavours and served in a bamboo leaf. I’d add a dollop of XO sauce to it, (as their sauce is awesome) rub your stomach, and appreciate that mixing shrimp, pork and veggies requires an expert balance. That’s what you’re getting here – food that is traditional Canto but balanced, light, and very, very good. Afterwards we had dessert, which was very nice though honestly I was pleasantly full already from the savouries. And that’s what I’d recommend you to do. Some families prefer a formal European dinner, others a cool private kitchen, and others are insane and think food is for nourishment rather than enjoyment. But let’s start out conservatively and only show our true and weird colours after you’ve treated them to a fine, elegant lunch. Good luck. Lung King Heen, 8 Finance St, Central, Hong Kong, 3196 8888
BBQ Combination This is THE BOMB, which I think is actually the technical term. LKH does its pork as good as as Yung Kee does its goose. The char siu is served in a sweet sauce and could be carved with a spoon and I’ve come back solo just to order this dish. The crispy pork is savoury with a brilliant crackling. A cracking dish. Order two. www.afoodieworld.com // january 2016
Braised Sea Bass Going from pork to sea bass honestly felt a bit weird for me and I wish I had partaken in a vegetable first. But hey, you can use that as a convo piece with the parents, who at this point should be impressed by your choice of venue, casual elegance, and that story you’ve rehearsed that shows you’re both fun and responsible (my go-to is getting lost after a board meeting in Tokyo. Board
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recipes
The Flavours of Fermentation Make your own tangy dishes that are good for the gut and tempting for the taste buds
Jacqueline Renee Cohen of LantauMama is passionate about fermenting not just for the health benefits but also for the fabulous flavours. She teaches classes around Hong Kong in fermenting, kefir, kombucha, dehydration and more. You can find her on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook as LantauMama and at www.LantauMama.com
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Tips before you begin: Fermentation is “the transformation of food by various bacteria, fungi, and the enzymes they produce.” (Sandor Katz, The Art of Fermentation) This transformation makes the food more nutritious, easier to digest, and often tastier. Fermenting is not a recipe; it is a method of changing the taste profile of ingredients as well as a method of preservation that also enhances the health properties of the food. Fermented food evolves over time and there is no ‘magic’ time to when it is ready. It is very much up to your own personal preferences – so taste your ferments regularly.
Three Styles of Fermenting
Kraut Style
Brine Solution
Honey Ferments
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Shred / grate the vegetables and fruit
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Add 2% of the total weight in Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt
Whole vegetables or fruit soaked in filtered water and salt solution
Used for whole or cut fruit, vegetables and spices soaked in honey
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To make a brine solution start with 1 liter of water, and add the 10 grams of Celtic sea salt for every % of brine solution required. For example, a 2% brine solution would be 1 liter of water with 20 grams of Celtic sea salt.
Put the desired ferment into a glass jar, cover with raw honey
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Rotate daily to be sure everything is drenched in the honey
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Massage/pound/squeeze until enough liquid comes out to cover the kraut Transfer to a fermenting vessel, use a weight to keep the veg/fruit under the liquid
Note on salt: High mineral salts such as Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt are recommended for the best results when fermenting.
SAUERKRAUT Prep time: 30 mins Fermenting time: 1 - 8 weeks Storage: Over a year in the fridge
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Method: 1. Put one or two large cabbage leaves to the side to use later and cut the remaining cabbage into strips, using a knife. 2. Place the cabbage in a large bowl and sprinkle with the salt as you go.
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Ingredients: • 2 heads of cabbage (approx 5 lbs / 2.3 kg), one white, one purple • 2% of overall weight in Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt, approximately 2 ½ tbsp
Massage, pound and squeeze the cabbage by hand until the liquid is released. When the liquid covers the cabbage, transfer to a fermenting vessel and cover with the whole cabbage leaves. Press down so all the cabbage is below the liquid. Add a weight on top to keep the cabbage down below the liquid and close the container. You can use a smaller glass jar with a lid, filled with water to make it a weight. During the next two to three days, continue to check the cabbage and press down below the liquid if needed. Transfer to a dark warm place to ferment until it reaches the desired taste. This can take 1-8 weeks depending upon your personal preference. When done, transfer into sterilised glass jars and refrigerate where it will last for months, the taste mellowing with time.
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Tip: If you are having trouble massaging the cabbage, leave it with the salt for around 10 minutes; then start again and it will be easier.
Sauerkraut 42
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CARROT-KRAUT – CARROT & GINGER Prep time: 30 mins Fermenting time: 1 week Storage: Over a year in the fridge
Ingredients: • 1 kg carrots • 20g/4tsp Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt • 1-6 tsp of grated ginger Method: 1. Roughly grate the carrots and add the salt. Massage, pound and squeeze until liquid is released. Mix in the ginger and cover. 2. Cover and let it sit for 4-7 days until it reaches the desired taste. Store in a glass jar in the fridge for up to a year. Tip: To make spicy kraut, you can add minced garlic, whole chillies, coriander and spring onion to the mix before fermenting. Get creative and you can do a mixture of cabbage and carrots.
DILLY CARROTS Prep time: 15 mins Fermenting time: 1 week Storage: Up to 6 months in the fridge
Ingredients: • 1 kg of carrots, try mixing orange and purple carrots • 1 handful of fresh dill • 4 cloves garlic, peeled • 20g/4tsp Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt • 1 litre filtered water Method: 1. Wash and peel the carrots and place them whole in a fermenting vessel. 2. Layer with fresh dill and the garlic. 3. Mix the salt in the water and pour over the carrots. Cover and let sit for 7 or more days, taste, then store in a glass jar in the fridge. 43
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PICKLED CUCUMBER Prep time: 15 mins Fermenting time: 1 week Storage: Up to 3 months in the fridge
Ingredients: • 10-15 medium size cucumbers • 1 handful fresh dill • 5 cloves garlic • 2 tbsp juniper berries • 1 tbsp peppercorns (any colour) • 1 tbsp of mustard seeds • 40g/8tsp Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt • 1 litre filtered water • 2-3 bay leaves Method: 1. Wash the cucumbers and keep them whole and unpeeled and place in a fermenting vessel. 2. Layer with the fresh dill, garlic, juniper berries, peppercorns and mustard seeds and cover with the brine. 3. Mix the salt in the water and pour over cucumbers. Cover and let sit for 7 days, taste, then store in a glass jar in the fridge. Tip: You want these to be crispy with a slightly soft interior. 44
FERMENTED PINEAPPLE Prep time: 20 mins Fermenting time: 3 days Storage: Up to 2 weeks in the fridge
Ingredients: • 1 fresh ripe pineapple, cubed • 1-3 chillies (any type) • 1 large handful fresh basil • 2 tsp Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt • 1 cup plain water kefir** and 1 cup filtered water or a 2% brine solution (see p.41)
Method: 1. Cut the pineapple in evenly shaped cubes. 2. Slice the tops off the chillies, or the sides if you want it spicier. 3. Put the chillies in the jar and layer the pineapple and basil. 4. In a measuring cup, put in the salt and water kefir/brine solution and mix well. 5. Pour the liquid over the pineapple, then top up with filtered water 6. Let sit for 2-5 days, until the pineapple has a slightly fizzy and flavourful taste.
recipes
facebook.com/foodiehk // january 2016
Honey Cranberries
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HONEY CRANBERRIES Prep time: 10 mins Fermenting time: 1 - 2 monthss Storage: Up to 1 year in the fridge
Ingredients: • 1 bag cranberries, washed and smashed • 1-2 cinnamon sticks • 1 vanilla pod, sliced down the side • Raw honey Method: 1. Put the washed, slightly smashed cranberries into your fermenting jar and add the cinnamon sticks and vanilla pod. 2. Pour in raw honey, until everything is covered. 3. Leave 5-10 cm of air between the top of the mixture and the top of the jar. Cover, and let sit for 1-2 months and then transfer to the fridge. In the hot months, you may need to move to the fridge after one month. 4. Turn and ‘burp’ the jar (release the air) every day to be sure all the cranberries are under the honey.
FERMENTED KETCHUP Prep time: 15 mins Fermenting time: 3 days Storage: Up to 6 months in the fridge
Ingredients: • 3 x 250 g jars of tomato paste • 1/3 cup raw honey or maple syrup or coconut sugar • 3 cloves garlic • 4 tbsp apple cider vinegar (or jun kombucha, if you have it) • 7 tbsp homemade fermented sauerkraut juice • 3 tsp Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt • 1 tsp cayenne pepper or smoked paprika Method: 1. Mix everything incredibly well in a highpowered blender. Season to taste. The extra tang the homemade fermented sauerkraut juice really makes a difference. 2. Transfer to a jar to ferment. Close the lid and ‘burp’ daily. 3. Ferment for 2-3 days, taste, and refrigerate when it is done.
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FERMENTED SALSA Prep time: 30 mins Fermenting time: 3-4 days Storage: Up to 1 month in the fridge
Tip: This method works for fermenting any salsa recipe, simply add the salt and leave to ferment.
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Ingredients: • 1 kg tomatoes, diced • 1 large onion, finely diced • 4 cloves garlic, minced • 1 bunch coriander, finely chopped (leaving some leaves whole) • 1 bunch spring onion, finely chopped • 1-3 chillies, chopped (optional) • 2% of the overall weight in Celtic sea salt or pink Himalayan salt
Method: 1. Mix in all the ingredients except for the salt and weigh the salsa. Calculate 2% of the weight and add that amount in salt and mix well. 2. Transfer to a jar and cover, leaving at least 20% of space at the top for expansion. 3. Ferment at room temperature and let sit for 2-4 days, until it is slightly fizzy. Store in the refrigerator.
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meatless monthly
Cindy Lam from ms food division cooks delicious vegetarian recipes that support local farms and promote good old home cooking www.msfooddivision.com VEGETARIAN RAMEN Serves: 1 Prep time: 10 mins Cooking time: 10 mins
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1 tbsp miso
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1 tsp chilli bean sauce
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1 tbsp soy sauce
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2-3 tbsp sesame oil
Method: Ingredients: •
100g cooked ramen, drained
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1/2 cup cooked sweet corn
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1 free range egg, boiled, peeled, and halved
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2 tbsp kimchi
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30g enoki + shimeji mushrooms
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dried seaweed
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1 tbsp chopped spring onion
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1 tsp roasted sesame seeds
• 1 cup malted soy milk or soy milk, sugar free For Soup base:
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1.5 bowl vegetable stock
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2 tbsp sesame seeds*, grind to powder form
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1 tbsp mirin
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1-2 garlic clove, finely chopped
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1 tbsp minced ginger
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1 tbsp chopped spring onion
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Cook ramen according to its packaging label. After it’s cooked, drained and set aside in a ramen bowl. Cook an egg for about 3-4 minutes in boiling water. Remove egg shell removed and set aside. Preheat a saucepan, add a few drizzles of sesame oil on medium heat, cook garlic, ginger, spring onion, sesame powder*, miso, chilli bean sauce, and mirin, stir Add soy milk and vegetable stock. When the soup starts to boil, add mushrooms and cook for another 3-4 minutes, season. Carefully place the vegetables and egg on top of the ramen. Add the hot soup base and garnish with sesame seeds, spring onions, sesame oil, and seasonings such as nanami or furikake before serving.