Summer 2005 (Vol. 09)

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SUMMER 2005

ANNUAL

TOP PICKS

our experts recommend the best

REGIONAL DINING WINES BEERS & COFFEES

beef basics how to buy it, order it, cook it and eat it

classic picnic baskets with an upscale twist—includes recipes!

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

PLUS

700 RESTAURANT

REVIEWS INSIDE!

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Z’s steaks are selected from Prime mid-western aged beef, hand-cut to order and cooked the way you like it.

Z’s seafood is purchased directly from “day boat fisherman,” prepared simply and cooked to perfection. Don’t call prior to 4:00 p.m. about seafood specials for the evening… Chef is still at the airport… we just don’t know, yet!

Z’s oyster lovers can select from both East and West Coast oysters!

Lunch

Monday – Friday

11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Dinner

Monday – Thursday Friday – Saturday Sunday

5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

Louisville’s ★The ★ ★★&◆◆◆◆ Courier-Journal Restaurant

2005 America’s Top 10 Seafood Houses

Opened in October 2000, Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse is independently owned and operated.

101 Whittington Parkway Louisville, KY 40222 Telephone (502) 429-8000 Facsimile (502) 339-0335 www.zsoysterbar.com

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Great Food | Great Service | Great Attitude

Seasonal menu with fresh seafood, pasta, steaks and salads 5 Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence Patio dining with oak wood grill and vine-trellised arbor 3-1/2 Stars Louisville Courier-Journal Lunch Monday-Friday 11a.m. to 2 p.m.

Dinner 7 nights a week

502-893-0141 3938 Dupont Circle Louisville, KY 40207

Upscale-casual dining featuring Northern California cuisine with Pacific Rim “fusion”

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Choose Your Dealership

As Carefully as You Choose Your Car.

You’re Riding On Our Reputation!

The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region.

As the #1 used car dealer, Sam Swope is also The Used Car Authority with over 1,000 vehicles to choose from for immediate delivery. A Sam Swope Premier Pre-owned vehicle offers a quality automobile, at the right price, backed by an exclusive package of owner benefits including a 7 day exchange policy, warranty coverage up to 60 days, and complimentary Emergency Roadside Rescue. You can buy with confidence from a Sam Sw ope dealership.

Quality automobiles. Competitive prices. Outstanding service. Once you see all that the Sam Swope Auto Group has to offer you will understand why‌

Swope Discount AutoCenter I I-64 & S. Hurstbourne Parkway I Louisville, KY 40299

502-499-5000 I www.SamSwope.com

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SUMMER 2005 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DANIEL F. BOYLE COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR ROBIN GARR RON JOHNSON DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS SCOTT HARPER ANNE JOSEPH LEN STEVENS II MELANIE WOLKOFF CONTRIBUTING CHEFS DANIELLE M. DeMARE SAM MUDD CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT CRITIC MARTY ROSEN CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR MELANIE WOLKOFF ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE TOM SFURA

Food & Dining Magazine 速 is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 Single copies $4.99, Annual subscription rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine 速 P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine速 and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine速 or any of its affiliates.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

___________________________________

For advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550

ON THE COVER PORTABLE FEAST: This succulent horseradish-encrusted beef tenderloin sandwich is the centerpiece of an upscale picnic basket created by Sullivan University Chef/Instructor Danielle DeMare. For this and more picnic recipes, see page 44.

Photo by Dan Dry 4

Summer 2005

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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contents SUMMER 2005

42

OUR ANNUAL TOP PICKS Food & Dining’s experts offer advice on the best of the best.

CORK 101: 25 Worthy Wines

26

HIP HOPS: Baylor’s Top 5

34

COFFEE: Lange’s Best Beans

38

ROAD TRIP! Ron’s Top Trips

42

Robin Garr leads a team of the city’s top wine experts on a quest for 25 memorable wines at a wide range of price points.

Beer guru Roger A. Baylor tells us about five excellent beers that you can buy right here in River City.

If you’re looking for more than just a caffeine jolt, you’ll want David Lange’s advice on four of the world’s best coffee bean varieties.

26

Nothing improves a road trip like good eats at journey’s end. Ron Johnson suggests five regional “foodie” destinations within overnight driving range.

FEATURES BEEF BASICS

14

THE NEW CLASSIC PICNIC BASKET

44

Where’s the beef? Nine out of 10 American families eat it regularly.

We’ll tell you how to buy it, order it, cook it and eat it.

34

Looking for something more original than hamburgers for your picnic?

Our guest chefs from Sullivan University suggest a pair of classic picnic baskets with an upscale twist.

COLUMNS

14

Comings & Goings

10

Side Dishes

13

Tracking the Louisville restaurant scene with our comprehensive quarterly report on openings and closings.

Recent restaurant happenings with a quick overview of developments on the local eats beat.

Kitchen Essentials: Coffee Press

40 50

Take the plunge–this simple coffee brewing system makes the perfect cup.

44

Louisville Restaurant Favorites: Tomatoes Alfresco

Stevens & Stevens shares the recipe for its most popular deli dish, a natural for summer picnics.

RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE

52

MAPS

82

Our comprehensive directory lists more than 950 places to dine in the Louisville area, including 700-plus restaurant reviews.

Now that you know where you want to go, our colorful metro-area maps show you how to get there. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005

5

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Lentini’s – a little bit of Italy here in Louisville When you’re here...

...you feel like you’re here.

Regional Italian Cuisine, Seasonal Specialties, Steaks and Chops

A Louisville tradition for over 40 years

Voted Louisville’s Best Italian Restaurant, Leo Weekly 2004

Join us for dinner Tuesday through Sunday

Louisville’s Only Exclusive Italian Wine List Award of Excellence, Wine Spectator 2004 & 2005

1543 Bardstown Road

Reservations Recommended

Private Dining Rooms Available

502-459-3020

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When it comes to service, we never cut corners.

Just great steaks.

Open for dinner nightly and at noon on Sunday .

Extensive Wine List and Full Service Bar. Private dining room and priority seating available.

Gift Cards available.

s t o n e y r i v e r. c o m

3900 Summit Plaza Drive • At the Summit Plaza Shopping Center • Louisville, KY • (502) 429-8944 ©2005 11350

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news and notes

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&goings

comings

From Derby season through midsummer, the quarter just past looked bullish for the Louisville restaurant business, at least if you gauge success in ter ms of business star ts: Fully 20 new restaurants came online, in a broad range of price points and ethnic styles, while only a half-dozen eateries went dark (and about that many more closed one link in a chain while others remained open). Here is an overview of these and other changes in the metropolitan area’s restaurant scene:

OPENINGS Three months after the popular Jicama Grill imploded in a noisy par ting of ways between Chef Anthony Lamas and his partner “Jun” Eugenio, Lamas is back with Seviche A Latin Restaurant at the same location, 1538 Bardstown Road, and happy crowds are flocking back, delighted to f ind that Lamas’ s Nuevo Latino cuisine is just as good as ever.

Another of the most popular new spots of the season is Bourbons Chef Anthony Lamas Bistro, in Rascals’ former location at 2255 Frankfort Avenue, where Chef Chr is Howerton presides over a stylish Souther n-accented bill of fare and the city’ s top selection of Bourbons.

Bourbon turns up again in the appealing if less upscale setting of Bourbon Bros. BBQ, a welcome arrival in the little white house at 2900 Brownsboro Road that had previously housed Melillo’s and later Huttster’s Burgers.

Just a f ew blocks toward downtown from Bourbon Bros., Shemroun’s Persian Grill, 2017 Brownsboro Road, adds another quality option to the city’ s growing choice of P ersian restaurants, with well-prepared Iranian delights and w elcoming service in a casually comfortable setting.

More hints of the exotic Middle East are found at Café 360, latest in a long line of eateries in the old house at 1582 Bardstown Road (corner of Bonnycastle), offering a 24x7 choice of diner-style fare and more exotic goodies that r ange from India to the Car ibbean.

Upstairs in the associated Hookah Lounge, Indian dishes and the Arabian water-loaded communal tobacco pipes called hookahs are available for those who indulge.

Welcome two more tin y but lovable entries in Crescent Hill: Gumbo A Go-Go, 2109 Frankfort Avenue, offers a selection of authentic Cajun and Creole goodies; at Lazy Jane Café , 2339 Frankfort Avenue, you’ll find a var iety of breakfast items, soups, salads and sandwiches.

Also on the ethnic side , just landed in Buechel is Teranga African Restaurant, 3904 Bardstown Road, a bright and sunny spot where very friendly folks will introduce y ou to the culinar y delights of Senegal and its West African neighbors.

In the f ormer Mama Rosa’s space in McMahan Plaza, 3061 Breckenridge Lane, Juan’s Mexican Restaurant now offers another south-of-the-border option.

10 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Out by Oxmoor Center, Fox & Hound, a “British pub” concept operated by a Kansas-based chain, is attracting crowds to 302 Bullitt Lane with its casual men u and wide selection of libations.

Oldham County’s recent “wet” laws allow the fr iendly folks at Hot Dog Heaven, 209 E. Main Street in LaGrange, to offer more than just root beer to wash do wn your dawgs (and more); and Southern Indiana welcomes Crawdaddy’s Café, 1207 E. Market Street in Jeffersonville, with its intriguing selection of Cajun fare .

Also new in Souther n Indiana are Asian Buffet, 1305 Veterans Parkway in Clarksville; and Big Ben’s Barbeque, 1331 E. Eighth Street, and Priya’s Bar & Grill, 253 Quartermaster Court, both in Jeffersonville.

Other new entries on the Kentucky side, listed alphabetically, are China Sea Buffet, 12689 Shelbyville Road; the resurrected Dinner Is Done , 3830 Ruckriegel Parkway in Jeff ersontown; yet another Double Dragon, 318 Wallace Avenue in St. Matthews; Logos Coffee House in Crescent Hill at 2250 Frankfort Avenue; and out in the Buechel-Fer n Creek area, Master’s International Coffee, 4806 Bardstown Road, and Mexican Fiesta, 5414 Bardstown Road.

CHANGES Nik’s Restaurant, Louisville’s go-to place f or Greek and Mediterranean fare, sports new management b ut a similar men u and mood and a slight name change to Nik’s Riviera Café, way out in the East End at 1915 Blank enbaker Parkway.

Closing at one location b ut popping up at another are new branches of Lemongrass Café (closed at 11300 Maple Brook Way in Spr inghurst but open at 11606 Shelb yville Road in Middletown) and Tumbleweed, closing its almost histor ic location on Mellwood but turning up nearby in spiffy new quarters in the Riverfront park at 1201 River Road.

More restaurants turned up in new locations as national or local chains grew during the quar ter. Bazo’s Mexican Grill added a unit at 12401 Shelb yville Road in Middleto wn. PaPa Murphy’s opened at 1305 Veterans Parkway in Clarksville; CiCi’s Pizza added two new locations at 3093 Breckinr idge Lane on the East side and 5226 Dixie Highway in the Southwest. Welcome to Moe’s at 12001 Shelb yville Road in Middletown, and another El Nopal in Chester’s former South End quarters at 5444 New Cut Road.

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ON THE RADAR Coming soon, but not y et open at press time, are two major upscale chains: the long-delayed P.F. Chang’s near Hurstbourne and Shelb yville Road and the long-a waited Cheesecake Factory in the St. Matthews mall.

Benny Impellizzeri, late of the long-running Impellizzeri’s in the Highlands, will open a new pizzeria soon at 808 Lyndon Lane , not to be confused with his brother’s spot, Tony Impellizzeri’s, which has been going strong for a decade at 108 Vieux Carre Drive, just off Hurstbourne.

Also coming soon are Deli Depot on Highway 131 in Clarksville; Tijuana Flats in the far East End; Shark’s Fish & Chicken at 7th Street and Algonquin Parkway, and Station House Seaf ood Grill in Crestwood.

CLOSINGS Finally, perhaps the most sur prising closing of the season was the abrupt shuttering of Fusion in Butchertown, which had been critically acclaimed and popular b ut apparently ran into partnership issues akin to those that brought down Jicama.

Rendezvous Diner in the Highlands, popular for its open-all-night diner fare but frequently criticized for bizarre service issues, sputtered to a halt after less than a year.

It is with particular sadness that we report the loss of tw o short-lived but respected small businesses: Les Naiman’s noble effort to return to the authentic-deli b usiness after a 20-year absence fell short as Naiman’s Deli in Hurstbourne closed its doors. And the lo vable but often overlooked Nermana’s Bosnian on Frankfort Avenue went dark in late spring.

Mama Rosa’s Mexican (with a Peruvian accent) is gone from Buechel, Rufad’s Kebob at 1613 Bardstown Road is dark, as is Little Saigon on Springhurst.

Damon’s closed its last regional property on Hurstbourne, and the following chains closed specific properties while remaining open elsewhere: Heavenly Ham’s stores on Shelb yville and Bardsto wn Roads are gone, as is the Don Pablo’s on Hurstbourne, and the Max & Erma’s in Prospect. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005

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LO U I SV I L L E ’S G O N E MEDITERRANEAN. BLU is an elegant Downtown dining experience, offering sun-drenched Italian, French & Spanish cuisine.

280 W. Jefferson St. 502.627.5045

12 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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news and notes

side dishes Filming at Red Lounge

[THE GREAT OUTDOORS]

[AND THE FANS GO WILD]

[LOUISVILLE–THE NEW HOLLYWOOD?]

Patios are popping up all o ver. The new patio on the front la wn at L&N Wine Bar & Bistro , 1765 Mellwood Ave., seats 40, and co-owner Len Stevens II tells us that he’s been hearing plenty of compliments. Ramsi’s Café, 1293 Bardstown Road, has expanded to the north, with enlarged dining space and a streetside cour tyard behind imposing, tall Italian-style gates.

Management at Kaelin’ s, 1801 Newburg Road, added a 700-square-foot patio out front along with an expanded bar inside. And Leander’s on Oak, 103.W. Oak Street, brings on a New Or leans feel with its lo vely, shady patio in an interior courtyard and splashing fountain, walled by the backs of neighbor ing Old Louisville Victorian houses.

Out at the old ball game , something new has been added to the peanuts and Cr acker Jack at Slugger Field. Now the stadium vendors who tote beer and peanuts through the stands ha ve added something just a little more upscale to their potations. Believe it or not, you can now enjoy a glass of wine while cheer ing on the Bats. Fetzer White Zinfandel and Fetzer Chardonnay, both California wines, are available in single-ser ving plastic bottles.

Stu Pollard, the Louisville bo y-turnedHollywood-director who wrote , directed and filmed “Nice Guys Sleep Alone” in and around the Derby City a couple of y ears ago, has been back in town, lugging his cameras and crew into several popular Louisville eateries.

He’s filming a new drama, “Keep Your Distance,” starring Gil Bello ws and Jennif er Westfeldt, with Stacy Keach, Christian Kane and Elizabeth Pena.Two key scenes feature Westfeldt and Kane working out their relationship over the tables at Red Lounge on Fr ankfort Avenue and Captain’s Quarters out on Upper Riv er Road.

Local foodies will also recognize shorter shots at Headliners Music Hall on Lexington Road and in the Seelbach Hotel, Pollard said.

We caught up with Pollard by phone in Los Angeles, and he said he’s pumped about the film, which will premiere in Louisville with a f estive charity showing at the Kentucky Center on Sept.

1, the day before it opens nationally on Labor Day weekend.

The local action begins Fr iday, Aug. 26, at Headliners, where a CD release par ty for the film’s soundtrack will star t at 8 p .m. The evening will feature live performances by some of the Louisville artists on the tr ack, including Tim Krekel, Digby, the Muckrakers and Peter Searcy. A $10 cover charge will get you a free copy of the CD, and proceeds will benefit Louisville’s Dare to Care Food Bank; guests are also urged to bring a can of food—or several—for the food bank.

The premiere on Thursday, Sept. 1 is a bit more upscale, with cocktails at 6:30 p .m. in the Kentucky Center . The film will f ollow at 7:30 p.m. in the Center’s Bomhard Theater.

Tickets, available from the Center’ s box office (584-7777), are $75 with proceeds going to the Children’s Hospital Foundation.

“I’ve made tw o films here in the last f ive years, and Louisville is a reall y great film-making community,” Pollard said. “Shooting in real locations like Genny’s Diner and Jack Fry’s (“Nice Guys Sleep Alone”), and now Red Lounge and Captain’s Quarters, gives your film a lot of credence and production values. And the neat thing is, I get e-mail from people around the world saying, ’You made me homesick f or the shrimp and grits at Jack Fr y’s.’ ” F&D

[HAPPY BIRTHDAY] A big bir thday party (that lasts six weeks) is under way at Equus, 122 Sears Avenue. The popular St. Matthew’s spot celebrated its 20th anniversary Aug. 15, and the celebr ation continues through the end of September . Owner/Chef Dean Corbett plans a number of special menu offerings during this per iod, including selected entrées with a glass of wine for $20. Now and then during the month he’ll bring in former Equus chefs now working at other restaur ants and feature their dishes from the 1980s at ’80s prices, typically $18 f or a main course. Homecoming veterans will include Finbar Kinsella (Lilly’s), Jeff Grubb (Lentini’s), Chris Hower ton (Bourbons Bistro) and more , reprising such memorable oldies as Veal Adrian, Chicken Kiev and Shrimp Jenkins.

Chef Dean Corbett

Chef Anoosh Shariat

[IRON CHEF LOUISVILLE] Anoosh Shariat took honor s as “Iron Chef Louisville” in the f irst round of a local competition based on the popular Food Netw ork program. Shariat, the executive chef of Park Place and Bro wning’s, narrowly edged out P eng Looi of Asiatique and August Moon and Nathan Carlson of Avalon, showing grace under deadline pressure as he invented a series of innovative dishes based on an unexpected secret ingredient: coffee. Shariat won $1,000 and the right to compete for the final prize against the winner s of future Iron Chef competitions.

The initial competition took place in the the Kentucky Center for the Arts.The exact time and location of future competitions is still being worked out, but organizers say the next round is likely to be Sept. 12.

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BEEF

BASICS

What you need to know about buying, ordering, cooking and eating beef

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Where’s the beef? Statistically, there’s a 90 percent chance that it’s right there on your dinner table: 251 million Americans—nearly nine of every 10 households—will eat beef at home during the next two weeks, according to NPD Gr oup, a marketing company that tr acks national food trends. The most popular in-home beef dish is steak, the marketers say. But before you fire up your grill, bear in mind that not all steaks are created equal.

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about food beef

BY MELANIE WOLKOFF | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

“C

onsumers think y ou can purchase the same steak y ou ate in a restaur ant at Sam’ s Club or a grocer y store,” says Michél Johnson, managing partner at Stoney River Legendary Steaks in Louisville . But when you cook that grocer y beef, Johnson says, something seems diff erent: “It’s tight, with no flavor.”

To get the best out of their beef, consumers need to lear n about bee f texture, marbling and aging, Johnson said.

But if you haven’t learned meat jargon yet, never fear. Food & Dining has chewed the fat with beef exper ts, gleaning helpful tips to make your next tr ip to the meat counter, the steakhouse or y our backyard grill a piece of, well, beef cake.

Meat Counter Bravado The first item on your grocery store list reads “steak.” Okay, fine. But the meat counter holds dozens of steaks, in every imaginable shape, size and cut. Now what? Don’t fret, we’ll take this one step at a time. First, the Jack Sprat debate: Fat or lean?

“There’s a misconception that ‘lean’ and ‘quality’ are one and the same,” says Jeff Fisher, owner of Kingsley’s Meat & Seafood.

“Consumers look f or lean red beef. In reality fat marbling gives it a higher grade.”

Marbling—the intramuscular fat that shows as white streaks and v eins running through the red meat—is a m ust in the highest-quality beef.

“Marbling is a ter m for the thin white flecks of fat found in beef,” explains Nancy Russman, chef-instructor at Jeff erson Community College. “When you cook the meat the fat melts into the meat, tenderizing it and producing a juicy , flavorpacked product.”

RIGHT: Marbling makes a difference, as Jeff Fisher of Kingsley Meat & Seafood shows.

He’s holding a w ell-marbled Prime, dryaged rib eye in his right ha nd; it’s easy to see the difference between it and the lean, lightly marbled Choice cut in his left hand.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Fisher checks out a selection of Kingsley’s dry-aged Prime beef.

16 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Russman recommends looking at a rib eye, which is heavily marbled, and a round steak, which is very lean, to see the difference. “That’s why people lo ve rib eye,” she said.“It’s so flavorful because fat is the flavor carrier.”

Marbling determines the meat’s grade.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture grades most supermarket-quality beef as “Prime,” “Choice” and “Select.” USDA Prime is the class valedictorian, containing 8 percent to 10 percent fat. This rich, expensive beef amounts to less than 2 percent of all the beef sold, and it’s usually found only in restaurants and high-end specialty stores.

USDA Choice comes next, with less than 5 percent fat. USDA Select follows, earning the feds’ passing grade with 4 percent fat. It is the most affordable of the three grades.

Don’t mistake tough gristle for desirable marbling, Fisher warns. “Gristle is no good. Gristle is shiny. Marbling is dull.”

The thin la yer of fat that co vers the exterior of man y beef cuts is called “fat cover.” It’s usually best not to remo ve it before cooking, as it prev ents the beef from drying out in storage and helps retain juices during cooking.

“Anyone who kno ws anything about beef knows you need fat for flavor when it cooks,” says Ernie Henson, meat and deli

manager at Bur ger’s Super Mar ket. Cut it off after the meat is done.

If the fat-laden beef seems unhealth y, consider this: Nineteen cuts of beef, including top loin, top sirloin, tenderloin, T-bone and top round, meet the go vernment guidelines to be billed as “lean.” The 12 leanest cuts have, on average, only one more gram of satur ated fat per ser ving than a skinless chicken breast. Beef ’s advocates boast that it also pro vides such essential nutrients as zinc , iron, protein, niacin and vitamins B6 and B12.

“Beef is reall y nature’s multivitamin,” says Dave Zino, whose job as director of the beef and v eal culinary center f or the National Cattlemen’s Beef Association (NCBA) in Chicago inspires him to utter sound bites lik e that. “Beef provides a healthy and delicious meal.”

Look for beef that’s cherry-red in color with gray or brown blotches, advises the NCBA. Vacuum packing a cut of beef retains its purple-red color, which turns bright red upon exposure to o xygen. Beef should feel firm to the touch and nev er slimy, sticky or overly dry.

Fresh beef should nev er smell sour .

“Smell it,” says Russman. “There’s nothing wrong with smelling it at a store . It should smell fresh and meaty. Also, if you see a lot

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of blood in the packaging y ou have to wonder if it’s been mishandled, frozen and thawed or losing moisture.”

Grass-finished, conventional, branded or organic?

Four types of beef are widely available in retail tr ade: conventional, branded, certified organic and gr ass-finished. Most common is conventional, which comes from cattle r aised in pastures, then are moved to f eedlots where they are f ed a grain-based diet f or 120 to 200 da ys before slaughter. Grass-finished beef comes from cattle that graze only in pastures.The resulting beef is different in taste, but there are no saf ety or signif icant nutritional differences between grass-finished and grain-finished beef. “A trained palate can detect the diff erence,” says Zino. “I’m a Midwestern guy who grew up with gr ainfed beef.”

Certified organic livestock must be fed only organic feed (grass or gr ain) and receive no antibiotics or gro wth hormones. In October 2002, the USDA began certifying foods that are at least 95 percent organic with a special seal. Organic beef often costs more than con ventional and grass-finished beef.

Corporate producers mark “branded” beef based on product specif ications or production standards. A brand may be based on the breed of cattle or a beef program. Mike Best’s Meat Market sells Choice Ster ling Silver premium meats, for example, and Stoney Riv er Legendar y Steaks sells Cer tified Angus beef.

Natural meat is minimall y processed and free of additives such as preser vatives, artificial flavors or colors. Most fresh beef is natural. Beef with an added marinade or other liquid will be labeled as such.

If there’s no ingredient label on the package , the beef is natural.

The Age Debate The desirable aged-beef flavor may be developed through either wet- or dryaging, Zino said. Wet-aging is most common. Portioned cuts of beef are sealed in vacuum bags and refrigerated for a specific time, during which the beef ’s natural juices age the meat and impro ve flavor. Wet-aged meat does not lose an y weight through this process.

Dry-aged meat loses 30 percent of its total weight because it loses moisture while the meat is stored in a cooler ,

concentrating the flavor. Dry-aging is less common and more expensive.

Fisher says dry-aged Prime beef is Kingsley’s trademark.“What happens is the whole carcass is hung and the meat’ s natural enzymes break do wn the fibers in the meat. When the tissue firms up it becomes more tender and picks up more flavors,” he said. “The carcass is protected from bacteria by a large coating of fat. You can age up to 14 da ys; otherwise bacteria will work its wa y into the meat. It’s far superior to wet-aging.”

Not everyone agrees with that opinion, though. Kevin Karr of the newl y opened Kevin’s Fresh Market said he prefers wet-aged beef because, in his view, it “has more flavor and more juices.”

The Complexity of the Cut Wholesale butchers divide the beef carcass into lar ge sections (m uscle groups) called “primal” or “wholesale” cuts. These cuts include the chuck, short loin, sirloin, round, plate, flank, shank, brisket and r ib. Your butcher may further divide these pr imals into “sub-primal” or “retail” cuts, which in turn may be cut into single portions for retail sale. For example, short loin is a pr imal cut; tenderloin is a

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sub-primal cut tak en from it, and filet mignon is a slice from the tenderloin.

Beef cuts from the middle of the carcass—the loin and rib—are muscles that get little exercise, so they tend to be tender. These cuts are suitab le for dryheat cooking methods such as gr illing, stir-frying, broiling or roasting. Premium tender steaks include top loin (str ip), T-bone or por terhouse (a combination of filet and str ip steak separated by bone), rib eye, rib and tenderloin.

Cuts from the front and rear of the carcass—the chuck and round—are heavily exercised muscles that yield tougher meat. They do best with moistheat cooking methods such as braising, pot-roasting or stewing. Full-cut round, top round, eye round and bottom round; chuck shoulder, chuck seven-bone, chuck arm and chuck b lade; flank and skir t round out the less tender steak options.

Curiously, the more tender the cut in steaks, the more delicate the robust flavor.

The tender filet mignon trades its texture for less flavor than a strip steak or rib eye, an equation that may influence the diner’s choice from a steakhouse menu.

David Cahill, executive chef of Z’ s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse, says he buys about 250 pounds of tender loin every week, serving twice as m uch tenderloin as strip loin and r ib eye combined. “The public’s perception is that tenderloin is the best piece of meat. Who doesn’t think of tenderloin going with lobster tail for a perfect romantic dinner? I think the strip loin is more fla vorful because it has more fat and more ‘chew.’ You can eat it with a spoon.”

Bill Webb, owner of Mik e Best’s Meat Market, says the str ip and the r ib eye are his most popular beef cuts. (continued on page 21)

LEFT: Executive Chef David Cahill of Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse trims the thick surface fat from a wet-aged short loin primal cut before carving it into serving-size 14-ounce New York strip steaks, one of which is shown on the facing page. BELOW: A dry-aged rib eye from Burger’s Market.

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So you think a great steak needs nothing but salt and pepper? Maybe. But these photos offer taste-tempting evidence to the contrary.

ABOVE: A 14-ounce filet topped with blue cheese fr om Stoney River. LEFT: Another Stoney River filet, this one topped with a horseradish crust. BOTTOM: Morton’s Steak Filet Diane, a classic

preparation with sautĂŠed mushrooms in a mustard demi-glace.

20 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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(continued from page 18) Henson says Kingsley’s best seller s include the T-bone, strip, rib eye and f ilet mignon, and Burger’s proclaims strip steak its number one seller. Other popular items include ground round, sirloin, Prime tenderloin and chuck.

Steak Cravings When we are not cooking steak at home, we’re probably ordering it in restaurants. Some 11.3 billion pounds of beef were served in commercial restaurants in the U .S. in 2004, according to NPD Group.

Stoney River Legendary Steaks, which has six locations including the Louisville property in Springhurst, features grain-fed, wet-aged steaks from hand-tr immed center-portion cuts. Johnson estimated that the restaurant goes through 1,500 to 1,700 steaks a week. Popular menu items include the 10-ounce lodge f ilet, which is seared in butter and spices, the Stoney River Legendary filet, Prime rib, center-cut sirloin, bone-in and strip steak.

“Our New York strip has slight marbling and great beef fla vor. It’s a bestseller,” Johnson said. “Our featured beef medallion items also sell well.”

At Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse,“We average 1,000 to 1,200 guests a w eek.”

Cahill says. “Half of those are beefeaters.

I estimate w e go through 500 to 600 steaks a week.” Z’s offers a menu packed with rib eye steak, steak au poivre—a pepper-crusted Prime filet served with a brandy-and-green-peppercorn sauce, strip steak center-cut from a Pr ime beef str ip loin, and the signature Pr ime filet mignon and 24-ounce porterhouse steaks.

Terry Smith, president and CEO of the Louisville-based Tumbleweed Restaurants, cites sirloin and rib eye as top sellers.

Tumbleweed operates more than 63 Southwestern-style restaurants in eight states. Responding to customer demand, Smith said, the growing chain has tweaked its menu in recent years, adding a menu of mesquite-grilled steaks, chops, chicken and seafood to its tr aditional Tex-Mex cuisine.

Its steaks include five variations on sirloin plus rib eye,T-bone, porterhouse, filet and peppercorn steak—an 8-ounce sir loin that’s mesquite-grilled and topped with fresh peppercorns.

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Dinner and Lunch Excursions Offered Year Round Private Parties Welcome Group Rates Available Please call toll-free for reservations

866-801-3463 Bardstown, KY

www.kydinnertrain.com 22 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

The Original Red Meat

Touted as “the original r ed meat,” bison (American buffalo) ma y become a new favorite for carnivores.“Bison is much lower in fat and cholesterol than pork, beef, chicken or salmon. It has 2.42 grams of fat to beef ’s 10.15 grams,” boasts Karen Graves, sales director of the K entucky Bison Compan y. “It is a pr emium meat. When people compare beef with buffalo cost-wise the y say it’s expensive; but it’s a good value and an excellent choice wher e nutrition is concerned.”

Graves describes buffalo meat’ s texture as similar to beef. “The flavor is sweeter, hardier and richer ,” she sa ys. “It does not taste game y. Many of m y customers tell me it tastes lik e what beef used to taste lik e when the y were growing up.” (Food & Dining Editor Robin Garr, a longtime dining critic , likens the taste of buffalo meat to a blend of beef and fr esh beef liver … not that ther e’s anything the matter with that.)

Graves’s favorite bison cut is the buffalo rib e ye, but she says most novices start with gr ound meat. “This gives them an oppor tunity to taste it in familiar applications like burgers, chili or spaghetti sauce,” Graves says. “As people find it and taste it, they become less frightened of it.”

“Bison is an extremely lean meat,” adds Kevin Karr of Kevin’s Fresh Market.

“When you break down bison tenderloin there is hardly any waste compared to Prime tenderloin, which has 35 percent waste.”

Hesitant about preparing buffalo at home? Try the buffalo sirloin or buffalo burgers at Tumbleweed. “We are the largest seller of buffalo in U .S. chains,” says Terry Smith.“We sell more than 1,000 buffalo burgers a week. It’s a product many of our guests on restricted diets order. People who like it are very loyal to it.”

Local markets such as Kingsley’s Meat & Seafood, Burger’s Super Market and large grocers such as Whole Foods sell buffalo meat as well.

Mike Best’s Meat Market began offering buffalo a few months ago.“We’ve sold bison patties, ground bison meat, bison rib eye and bison strip,” said Bill Webb, the owner. “It cooks like any steak item, but can not be cooked as well-done because it’s so lean it will dr y out. I recommend cooking it no more than medium.”

Contrary to popular belief, Graves added, “Buffalo are not extinct. … There’s a plentiful supply.” So plentiful, in fact, that Kentucky Bison Company planned to unveil buffalo hot dogs this summer.

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Cuts of the Future If you’re still looking for the cut of beef that’s right for you, stay tuned: In a project conducted by the NCB A’s Center f or Research and Technical Services, working with the Univ ersity of Flor ida and the University of Nebr aska, researchers analyzed 39 m uscles from the chuck and round, rating each in ter ms of fla vor and functionality. Researchers found several tender and flavorful muscles with potential to be marketed as new cuts of beef.

“We didn’t invent another cow or leg.

We just cut things differently to get tender steaks out of pr imals that bef ore needed moist-heat cooking,” Zino said. “There’s a cut of beef for every person out there.”

“People want smaller por tions, not leftovers,” added Alison Smith, director of consumer affairs for the Kentucky Beef Council. “The research studied the underutilized chuck and round cuts. They found real hidden diamonds in the rough.

We’re constantly working to place these cuts in grocery stores. Right now you’ll see it more in foodservice.”

Among new cuts, flatiron and r anch steaks are gaining popular ity. The flatiron, so called because its tr iangular shape is reminiscent of an old-fashioned iron, is cut from the shoulder in 6- to 14-ounce portions.The ranch steak comes from the shoulder center. It’s said to be similar in flavor and texture to top sir loin and is available in 4- to 10-ounce por tions.

“Price-wise, the flatiron is probably half of what a Pr ime filet costs,” said Karr, who plans on selling flatiron steaks at Kevin’s.

Don’t overcook the new cuts, cautioned Kentucky Beef Council’ s Smith.

Since they’re not as marbled as rib eye or tenderloin, cooking them past medium will contract and toughen the meat.

Not everyone is embracing the new cuts. Tumbleweed’s Terry Smith said they tried new cuts as test-menu selections, but diners weren’t satisfied with their texture or flavor.

Safe Handling No matter what beef cut you choose, make sure to refrigerate it right away. As a sanitation tip, Zino said, do as restaurant kitchens do: Never put fresh beef on a refrigerator shelf over prepared or ready-

to-eat foods, because the r aw beef could drip and contaminate the foods below.

The NCBA claims fresh, unopened, vacuum-packaged meat will k eep for up to 21 da ys in the refr igerator (only 14 days for ground beef). Properly frozen beef will k eep in the freez er for six months to a year.

To freeze fresh beef, wrap it tightly in specially coated freez er paper, aluminum foil or heavy-duty, food-safe, plastic freezer bags, sealing out air to lock in moisture and prevent freezer burn. Thaw frozen beef in the refr igerator, not on a countertop or in warm water.“The slower you thaw something in the refr igerator, the juicier it’s going to be when you cook it,” Russman said.

Food safety concerns don’t end when the meal is cook ed. Don’t leave cooked meat sitting out more than tw o hours, Russman advised.

Taking Beef Home “One of the main misconceptions about beef is that it’ s difficult and mystifying,” Zino said. “People ask, ‘What’s the most tender cut?’ They all are, if you cook it r ight. You want to match the correct cut with the correct cooking method.” Zino invites computer-savvy consumers to visit the NCB A’s website, www.beefitswhatsfordinner.org, to view recipes and cooking tips.

For the no vice chef, Kentucky Beef Council’s Smith recommends star ting with the rib eye and cuts from the sir loin and loin. “You can use these cuts in multiple ways,” she says. “Grill it. Put it on salads. Create tapas or k ebabs. The options are endless.”

The key to excellent grilling is to sear the meat first to seal in the juices, Johnson says. Russman agreed, saying, “I get the gr ill hot, then sear the meat on one side, sear it on the other, turn it over and turn the grill off. I let it finish cooking slowly.”

If your coals are too hot, the beef may char on the outside bef ore it’s cooked through. Cook steaks, kabobs and burgers directly over the coals. Larger cuts of beef such as roasts should be gr illed over indirect heat, with the coals off to the sides rather than directly under the meat. To check coal temper ature, cautiously hold the palm of y our hand o ver the coals at

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5 0 2 . 5 1 5 . 0 1 7 2 SERVING LUNCH AND DINNER www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 23

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MEET THE CHEF

David Cahill

Executive Chef David Cahill Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse 101 Whittington Pkwy.

(502) 429-8000

When David Cahill was growing up he loved animals so much that he dreamed about growing up to become a v eterinarian. “My dad used to sa y that I’d share my last baloney sandwich with a dog,” he laughed. But he was ne ver a vegetarian, he says, and has always been able to draw a line between loving his pets and appreciating what’s on his plate.As the Executive Chef at Z’ s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse, he estimates that he cooks 500 to 600 steaks every week.

As a youngster he worked in restaurants, busing tables and washing dishes. Eventually he was off ered a cooking position, and he’s been in the kitchen e ver since, working at restaurants as varied as Casa Grisanti and Doole y’s Bagel & Deli.

His joy in cooking stems fr om sharing: “This job is personall y rewarding for me,” he said. “I make someone’s day more pleasurable—even for just a fleeting moment … I lo ve the entertainment part of it—the whole atmosphere.We bring family and friends together; even business meetings can be fun ar ound the dinner table.”

Even as a chef at a f our-star restaurant, Cahill understands that some acts are hard to follow. “Home cooks ar e our toughest competition, ” he said. “I’ll never compete against someone’s mom or grandma. I’d never match it.”

FOOD & DINING GRILLED CAHILL ON HIS FAVORITE TOPIC—BEEF FAVORITE BEEF CUT? “I like them all, but I love a strip loin. It has chew on it and is the most flavorful cut with a decent amount of fat. Once it’s cooked you can eat it with a spoon.”

HOW DONE SHOULD A STEAK BE? “I grew up eating well-done, but I prefer a steak mediumrare or medium. A well-done steak renders out all of the fat and flavor.There’s nothing left.”

DOES A GOOD STEAK NEED A SAUCE? Not according to Cahill. “Steak doesn’t need any steak sauce or ketchup, just salt and pepper. Of course, if a guest requests it we’ll provide it. I know our steaks, and they don’t need anything but a fork and knife.”

BIGGEST MISTAKE MADE BY HOME COOKS? “Cooking steak on too high a heat or too fast.

The best way to cook a steak is under a hot br oiler with just salt and pepper. Sear it, and keep it simple.”

AS A BEEF EATER, ARE YOU CONCERNED ABOUT THE RECENT “MAD COW” SCARE? “I’m not afraid of food. I’m educated on how to handle food. I have to trust the people I depend on—from the person who raised the cattle , to the person who slaughtered it and all the way down to the person who packages it.The American public will always eat a meat-andpotato diet.”

WHAT DO YOU SAY TO PEOPLE WHO DON’T THINK BEEF IS HEAL THY? “If you eat four pounds of beef every day that’s a problem, but I don’t know anyone who does that. Eat in moderation.”

LAST-MINUTE BEEF COOKING TIPS: “Follow good handling practices, keep the meat cold until you use it and don’t let it sit out in the sun.”

24 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

cooking height. Count the number of seconds you can hold y our hand in that position bef ore you have to pull away. Four seconds is just r ight for medium heat.

Is it done yet?

It’s easy to tell when your beef is done. “People don’t realize that meat is a m uscle tissue,” says Russman. “It’s 75 percent water .

That’s where people screw meat up.They overcook it or marinate it too long. Whether you are making meatloaf or tender loin, the longer you cook it the dr yer and smaller it gets.”

Henson offers another tip: “Put steaks and burgers on a low-heated grill. Some people cook on high temperatures in the beginning. This cooks out the juices.”

The NCBA recommends cooking whole meat cuts, including steaks and roasts, to an inter nal temperature of at least 145 degrees, which leaves the meat hotpink in the center . Ground beef should be cook ed to at least 160 degrees, until the center and juices are no longer pink.

What’s the word on Wagyu?

If Prime beef ’s butter-like texture makes your mouth water , Wagyu beef, the American version of Japanese Kobe beef, may make you drool. The original Kobe beef comes from cattle r aised in the Kobe region of Japan, where beef producers practice such unusual methods as feeding the cattle beer , giving them massages to reliev e stress and m uscle stiffness, and brushing the animals with sak e.

What results is an intensely marbled meat with an unparalleled rich flavor.

“We did a taste comparison of Prime beef and Kobe beef, and Kobe is m uch more tender ,” says Kevin Karr of Kevin’ s Fresh Mar ket who plans on carrying the American Kobe-style Wagyu beef, which is raised in the U .S.—minus the beer, massage and sake.

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Beef Handling and Cooking Safety D O: Wash hands, work surfaces, cutting boards and towels with hot soapy water.

Defrost meat in the refr igerator.

Separate raw meat from ready-to-eat and perishable foods.

Marinate foods in the refrigerator.

Use a clean instant-read thermometer

to measure proper doneness of meat, making sure it reads at least 160 degrees when cooking ground beef and 145 degrees for steaks and roasts.

Use separate plates to avoid crosscontamination between raw meat and cooked or ready-to-eat foods.

winston’s

restaurant

DON’T: Defrost meat at room temper ature.

Put cooked meat on the same

unwashed plate that you used to carry your raw meat out to the gr ill.

Save or reuse a mar inade.

Purchase beef in a broken carton,

with dirty wrappers or torn packaging.

Sullivan University Campus 3101 Bardstown Road Louisville, KY 40205

Friday & Saturday Lunch 11 am - 2 pm Dinner 5:30 pm - 10 pm

Reservations are recommended

Sunday Brunch 9:30 am - 2 pm

502-456-0980

Source: Cattlemen’s Beef Board and National Cattlemen’s Beef Association.

F&D

WHERE’S THE BEEF?

BUTCHER SHOP LOCATOR

Bernie Karem Meats, 314 Wallace Ave.

Kevin’s Fresh Market, 10004 Taylorsville Rd.

Buehler’s Fresh Market, 1148 S. Fourth St.

Kingsley’s Meats & Seafood 4919 Brownsboro Rd., 2701 Taylorsville Rd., 7202 Fegenbush Lane

Burger’s Super Market, 1105 Ray Ave. Doll’s Market, 3620 Brownsboro Rd. Frank’s Meats & Produce, 3342 Preston Hwy.

Butcher Dennis Roberts of Burger’s Market

Mike Best’s Meat Market 4864 Brownsboro Rd.

The Fresh Market, 10480 Shelbyville Rd.

Rainbow Blossom Natural Food Store 3738 Lexington Rd., 3608 Springhurst Blvd., 12401 Shelbyville Rd.

Karem’s Meats, 2111 State St., New Albany

Whole Foods Market, 4949 Shelbyville Rd.

Kentucky Heritage Meats, 2221 Buechel Ave.

Wild Oats Natural Marketplace, 4600 Shelbyville Rd.

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 25

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OUR PANEL OF EXPERT WINE TASTERS EACH REVEAL FIVE OF THEIR FAVORITE WINE CHOICES

W

hat kind of wine do the exper ts drink, when the exper ts do drink wine? In an effort to find a definitive answer to this burning question, Food & Dining came up with a simple formula: We invited five of Louisville’s leading wine gur us, including a couple of restaur ant wine guys, a longtime retail buyer and consultant, a wine-savvy “civilian” and a wine writer (your humble scribe), to nominate five favorite wines that they’ve enjoyed recently and can wholehear tedly recommend.

The results would grace any cellar or wine r ack: A total of 25 wines, most of them in the aff ordable price range, a good mix of whites and reds with a few sparkling wines thrown in for variety, representing a virtual United Nations of wine-producing regions around the w orld. Each participant submitted his or her personal notes, along with information on retail price. All of these wines should be available, or were on sale recently, at Louisville-area wine shops or on local restaur ant wine lists.

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 27

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liquids top wines

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

Robin Garr In addition to his duties as Editor-in-Chief of Food & Dining and Publisher of LouisvilleHotBytes.com, he has written about wine prof essionally for 25 y ears and has judged wine competitions r anging from the Kentucky , Indiana and Maryland State Fair s to inter national wine competitions in Fr ance, Italy, Australia, New Zealand and the f ormer Yugoslavia. His wine-appreciation w ebsite, WineLoversPage.com, is the oldest, largest and most highl y awarded independent wine destination on the Inter net. Here’s a selection of some of the best wines he has enjo yed recently, at a variety of price points.

Cartlidge & Browne 2003 California Pinot Noir

Domaine Weinbach 2001 Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvee Laurence

Nalle 2002 Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte Premier Cru Brut Rosé

Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2000 Margaux

$12

$40

$20

$40

$47

If you’ve been cr aving Pinot Noir ev er since you watched Sideways, here’s an exceptionall y stylish model at an exceptional price. It’s dense and dar k, with fresh and appealing aromas of r ipe black cherries accented with a dash of subtle spice.Tart black plums are laced up by zippy acidity on the palate.

Honeyed candy-apple aromas loft from the glass of this dr y Alsatian wine, blending ripe apple fruit and car amel with heady, slightly musky notes of or ange peel and a spicy shak e of white pepper. Remarkably intense, its unctuous, almost oily mouthfeel communicates a sense of sweetness at first, but steely acidity provides a firm structure.

This very dark reddishpurple wine breathes luscious Zin aromas of blackberries and r aspberries, with a faint, pleasantly herbal back note that adds complexity. Fresh and juicy berry fruit flavors are well balanced b y zippy acidity. Mouth-filling but no blockbuster, it is Zinfandel in the classic style and a v ery fine value.

A transparent, pale-rosy color makes this Pinot Noir-based Champagne an exceptionally pretty wine in the glass,showing a lasting fountain of pinpoint bubbles. Subtle and complex, there’s an appetizing blend of r ipe apples, cocoa and redberry fruit on the nose and palate. It is rich and smooth, with mixed apple and ber r y fruit lingering in a v ery long, cleansing finish.

The second label of the fabled Chateau Margaux, this wine is a very fine bottle in its own right, at a fraction of its more sought-after sibling’s three-figure price.

A surprisingly ear thy “barnyard” note and whiffs of black olives and cedar surround deep black currant fruit. Fresh, juicy and tar t on the palate, there is a lot of fruit for a y oung Bordeaux, making it surprisingly accessible, especially with rare beef to help tame the tannins.

ROBIN GARR 28 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Scott Harper Another of the city’ s leading restaur ant wine exper ts, Scott Harper is a Cer tified Wine Educator and is pur suing advanced wine cer tification in the inter national Master Sommelier progr am. He teaches adult wine-appreciation courses at Bellarmine University, has built an admirable beverage program at Louisville’s popular Bristol Bar & Gr ille restaurants and now manages the Br istol Downtown. His top wine picks, all available on the Br istol’s wine list and at local wine shops, represent a worldwide selection from France, Italy, South America and Australia.

Masi 1999 Campofiorin “Ripasso”

D’Arenberg 2002 McLaren Vale “The Footbolt” Shiraz

Bodegas Catena Zapata 2003 Mendoza “Alamos” Malbec

Michel Redde 2003 “Les Tuilieres” Sancerre

Joseph Drouhin 2002 Domaine De Vaudon Chablis

$18

$20

$11

$25

$24

This “junior Amarone” from Italy’s Veneto region is made pr imarily from the indigenous Nor theastern Italian gr ape Corvina. Its flavors evoke dried cherries, dried wild strawberries, brown sugar and saddle leather.

It has light-plus tannins and a v elvety full texture. It is mature , ready to drink and is an excellent value in a mature Italian red.

Ripe blackberries, black cherries, vanilla, oak, bittersweet chocolate and cracked black peppers are en veloped in this r ich, full-bodied wine from Australia. It is dr y, yet rich with medium tannins that suggest bottle aging f or two to four years, but its richness makes for very good drinking now.

A deep purple wine with flavors of b lackberries, boysenberries, anise, lavender and light oak, this Argentine beauty is dr y and r ich with a medium-plus body; it possesses medium tannins that are long and relatively smooth.

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire in France has cr isp acidity and flavors of gr apefruit, gooseberry and lemon peel. It is dry and medium-bodied with a light flinty minerality that makes it an excellent choice with goat cheese and shellfish.

Green apple, smoke, very light oak, wet stone minerals, lemon/lime and crisp acidity all make this 100% Chardonnay from France’s Chablis region bright and liv ely. It’s dry with a light to medium body and a delicious vivaciousness.

SCOTT HARPER www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 29

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liquids top wines

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

Len Stevens II The affable co-proprietor and wine guy at L&N Wine Bar & Bistro, Len Stevens is one of the city’s top wine exper ts, pursuing studies toward certification as Master of Wine. He has chosen a selection of Spanish wines, highlighting a country that he considers “vastly underrated” in terms of both the quality and value of its wines.His recommendations are all available at L&N as well as local wine shops.

S. A. Alvear 2000 Fino “En Rama”

Basa 2003 Rueda Sauvignon Blanc

Pinoso 2001 Alicante “El Seque”

Alvaro Palacios 2002 Priorat “Les Terrasses”

Niepoort 1990 LBV Port

$12

$11

$30

$30

$30

A close cousin to Sherr y, this Spanish aperitif comes from the neighboring Montilla Morales region. Ver y crisp, dry, with hints of almond and citr us, it’s a great way to cleanse the palate before dinner.

Sherry-style wines are amazingly inexpensive for the quality.

Rueda was one of the first Spanish wine regions to permit the use of Sauvignon Blanc, and this lively wine sho ws why: Melon, grapefruit, and hints of tangerine are balanced with lively acidity that leads to a clean finish, without the over t herbaceousness that mars so many modestly priced Sauvignon Blancs.

Spain’s Alicante area makes high-quality wines from vines that can be more than 100 years old.

Stevens also recommends similar red wines from neighboring Jumilla or Yecla. Primarily made from the Monastrell grape, this wine sho ws wonderful lush fla vors of blackberry, blueberry, hints of tar, tilled earth and elegant tannins. This full-bodied wine holds for 10 to 15 years but is showing well now.

Priorat southwest of Barcelona has been a “hot” Spanish wine region in recent y ears, and Alvaro Palacios is one of its top producer s.

Garnacha (Grenache) is the grape, and it shows a wonderful intensity when grown in Priorat.

Crushed black fruits, dried cassis and b lack cherries are fr amed nicely with wood spices.

This wine is an affordable opportunity to taste a Palacios wine: His other two Priorats retail for around $70 f or the Finca Dofi and $300 f or the rare and soughtafter L’Ermita.

Stevens “cheats” a bit by slipping in a wine from Spain’s close neighbor Por tugal, because for him, Por t is in a league of its o wn. Late-bottled vintage (LBV) Ports offer the advantage of intense fruit (think sw eet blackberries and cur rants blended with spice and finishing with an alcoholic kick), but without the daunting tannic astr ingency of a young vintage Port. It’s a perfect finish to a great meal.

LEN STEVENS 30 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Ron Johnson A local attorney with a deep enjo yment and exper tise in wine and f ine dining, Ron Johnson explores the restaur ant scene in nearby cities as Food & Dining’s “Road Trip” columnist. His favorite wine categories include Southern France and Northern Italy; for this column he submits f our French favorites and a “ringer” from California.

Domaine D’Aupilhac 2003 “Lou Maset” Coteaux du Languedoc

Robert Pecota 2003 Sauvignon Blanc (California)

Verget du Sud 2002 Cotes du Luberon Rouge

Domaine Dupeuble Pere et Fils 2003 Beaujolais

Domaine de Cantarelles 2003 “Syrah de Fayel” Vin de Pays D’Oc

$11

$11

$9

$10

$12

A worthy emulation of the pricier Chateauneufdu-Pape, this wine includes the classic southern French blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsaut.

Remarkably poised for such a big wine , it has a velvety texture and explosive fruit flavors that are k ept in check with enough acidity to make it a natur al food wine.

A perfect summer wine that pairs beautifully with grilled seafood, salads and other light fare , this wine is crisp with a nice balance of citr us and honeysuckle flavors. The light-bodied style makes it equally appropriate as a cocktail wine , but the aroma of wild herbs makes for a surprisingly complex summer quaffer.

A winemaker’s brew of Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon results in a wine with a core of fr uit flavors balanced by pleasing notes of saddle leather and game. New oak softens the edges b ut does not overwhelm the wine.

This is a light-bodied and refreshing red with flavors of crushed strawberries and plums. It can be served as a cocktail or paired with light summertime fare, and it is best ser ved with a slight chill.

A blend of Syr ah and Grenache makes for a wine with spices and berries on the nose and loads of dar k fruits in the mouth. Medium- to full-bodied with considerable depth of flavor.

RON JOHNSON www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 31

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Anne Joseph

As the former director of the Kentuckiana chapter of the wine society Les Amis du Vin, and wine buyer and exper t at the old Liquor Outlet and P arty Source stores (now Liquor Bar n), Ann Joseph is no w a pr ivate wine consultant and describes herself as a “world traveler and wine lover since college days in France.” She presents an inter national selection of wine fa vorites, most in the affordable to middle price ranges.

Patricia Green 2003 Oregon Pinot Noir

Goats do Roam South African White

Chateau Grande Cassagne 2004 Costieres de Nimes Rouge

$22

$10

$11

Exotic spice-box aroma with spicy lush r ipe black cherr y flavors. It just keeps on going and growing in the finish.

An unusual blend of several grapes, this humorously named wine shows spicy, zippy tropical melon notes and a light and refreshing fla vor. It’s a great party wine.

A blend of Grenache and Syrah, with a perfumey forward blue-fruit nose and flavors with creamy texture, this wine has good structure, yet it is v ery soft and approachable.

Seifried 2004 Nelson (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc

<<<

Intense herbal gooseberry nose and exotic tropical flavors. Great texture and zingy finish.

Altos de la Hoya 2002 Jumilla

>>>

Big, fat, ripe berry and leather nose and flavors add a hint of vanilla.

Soft ripe tannins with lovely long finish.

$15 32 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

$11

ANNE JOSEPH

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liquids hip hops

BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDIS CELIK

B a y l o r ’s

Aristotle, a wine drinker, once observed, “With regard to excellence, it is not enough to know, but we must try to have and use it.”

When it comes to excellence in the art of brewing, availability is the chief barrier between misty-eyed reminiscences of Yorkshire cask ales and the reality of stopping by a Louisville-area pub to “have and use” a pint of favored elixir.

Here, in no particular order, are five great beers. All are personal favorites, and while they don’t begin to tell the full story of beer’s stylistic diversity, they can be found locally.

Rochefort 10 (Rochefort, Belgium) A monk may devote his entire life to exploring the relationship between man and God. The brothers at six certified Trappist monastery breweries in Belgium expand this cosmic search to the science of fermentation, keeping venerable brewing traditions alive.

Among the products of these six breweries, Chimay Blue and Westmalle Tripel are best known. Achel’s signature Kluis is relatively new, and Westvletern 12 remains revered but is seldom seen outside Belgium. Orval’s rural setting is stunning, and its unique hop and yeast character tempting; but the highest achievement of Belgian Trappist brewing is Rochefort 10, which issues from the reclusive Abbaye Notre-Dame de St. Remy near the Ardennes town of Rochefort.

My cherished Rochefort 10 weighs in at 11.3% alcohol by volume, and it’s no “lawnmower beer,” pouring creamy brownishblack, with mellow, deeply fruity esters and subtle hints of nuts.

The flavor is pure silk, full-bodied, tasting perhaps of semi-sweet chocolate, with an alcohol note or two suggesting licorice liqueur.

Rochefort 10 is contemplative and refined. Drink it for dessert.

34 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Pilsner Urquell (Plzen, Czech Republic) Repeat after Stone Brewing Company (maker of Arrogant Bastard Ale): “I am not a fizzy yellow beer drinking ninny here under false pretenses.”

Indeed, somewhere around 90% of the world’s beer drinkers drink mass-produced industrial lager, most of it serviceable in a pinch but profoundly uninteresting. Regrettably, today’s omnipresent golden lager often is referred to as “pilsner,” which is akin to ground beef being represented as filet mignon.

Fortunately, the yardstick lager that inaugurated the worldwide pilsner-style craze 170 years ago still is brewed in the Czech city of Plzen, hence the Pilsner name.

Pilsner Urquell is richly golden in color, firm but not heavy in body, with notable dollops of Czech hop flavor, aroma and bitterness.

It still displays far more character than its legion of imitators, and is a versatile choice with food, standing especially well alongside fresh vegetables, chicken and fish.

BBC APA (American Pale Ale) (Louisville, Kentucky) The best microbrewed beer produced in Louisville is BBC APA, as crafted by its original brewer, David Pierce, at the BBC Brewing Company just east of downtown on the corner of Main and Clay streets.

Pierce’s signature APA originally was formulated along the lines of an English-style pale ale, but with American hops and yeast substituted for the British originals. Pierce prefers American Centennial hops, he said, “because they give a more crisp bite.” The creative fusion of different brewing traditions into a delicious and innovative hybrid is the defining glory of contemporary American microbrewing. BBC APA is mediumbodied, malty and slightly toasty—like English ales—but the hop kick is all-American, with citrus notes and a long, satisfying bitterness at the end.

BBC APA holds its own with spicy ethnic food, and is my alltime favorite with chicken wings.

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 35

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Schlenkerla Märzen (Bamberg, Germany)

Alarmingly, beer consumption has been on the decline in Germany for many years; and the beer-crazy Franconia region, home to 500 or more breweries as recently as the 1980s, has seen that number drop to just more than 300 now. But in Bamberg, the jewel of Franconia, the number of breweries recently rose from nine to ten—for a city of 75,000!

My favorite is Schlenkerla Märzen, brewed by the Brauerei Heller Trum, the family business of my friend Matthias Trum, and served from real wooden barrels in their venerable tavern in the heart of Bamberg’s Old Town.

To be labeled “Märzen” implies grounding in the Oktoberfeststyle amber lager tradition, but this version incorporates a tradition at least as old as the harvest fest itself: The use of an open beechwood fire to smoke the barley after malting, as is still done inside the Heller Trum brewery.

The handcrafted result is a fine German amber lager beer that tastes—well, smoky. It’s enduringly fine by the half-liter, and positively joyful with strongly flavored foods like grilled meats, game, sausages or piquant beer cheese.

36 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout (Ft. Bragg, California)

Although the celebrated Guinness Draft Stout remains one of the world’s great light-bodied, low-gravity ales, it doesn’t make my short list. Heresy? Perhaps, but my preference now lies with Imperial Stout, the heaviest member of the roasted, coffee-like stout family.

This strong ale, along with its more elusive cousin, Baltic Porter, packs a full deck of flavors into a single glass, and it varies widely in strength (from as low as 7% alcohol by volume all the way to 11% and sometimes beyond). Viscosity is high, and the mouthfeel broad.

Imperial Stouts can be intensely fruity, roasted, sweet and dry, all in the course of a single serving.

Old Rasputin’s name harkens to the original Tsarist export market for this ale style, and it conjures an appropriate black and mysterious imagery. It is the best all-purpose example of Imperial Stout regularly available, although Samuel Smith Imperial Stout is slightly truer to the style’s English origins.

Other excellent, seasonal interpretations are Avery “The Czar,” Bell’s Expedition and Stone Imperial Stout. All the preceding are well suited for sampling with kippers, smoked oysters and pickled vegetables. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 37

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Page 38

BY DAVID LANGE

L a n ge’s

Best

beans

“I’d like a cup of coff ee.” If your only goal is a caffeine jolt, then this simple request should be sufficient to get you there. For most of us, though, as coffee becomes a small but significant element of our moder n lifestyle, asking for a gener ic coffee makes no more sense than calling for a well drink or requesting an unspecified glass of white wine.

As it is with other adult bev erages, so it is with our dail y cuppa Joe. With coffee now cultivated in more than 50 countries encompassed b y four broad geogr aphical growing regions, it makes sense to lear n the basics and identify the varieties and styles that please y ou best.

Just like wine gr apes, coffee beans come in doz ens of botanical varieties; and much like Scotch, Cognac or Bourbon, coffee styles and fla vors can be clear ly identified with specif ic growing regions.

Today let’s talk about some of m y personal favorites.

The coffees that I highlight are str ictly varietals, not blends (think Laphroaig, not Dewar’s), and they show off the recognizable nuances of the region (appellation) where the beans were grown.

Most local coff ee houses and dealer s should car ry these well-known coffees from each of the f ollowing regions. If they don’t have them in stock, they should be able to place an order for you.

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Costa Rica The coffees of Central America are prized for their consistency, clarity and balance.They possess clean, crisp acidity and are typically light- to medium-bodied. One country that produces some of the very best is Costa Rica. Costa Rica Tarrazu is a delight, characterized by a full, mellow body and high acidity in perfect balance. Costa Rica strictly controls coffee exports to maintain quality; inferior beans are dyed blue and sold only at home. Costa Rica is so ser ious about its coffee that it permits only the quality arabica beans: It is illegal to grow the less-respected robusta or other inferior coffees in the countr y.

Colombia New World coffees boast a “taste of place” that is familiar to most Americans: bright acidity, clean flavor, medium body and aroma. The best beans are grown at high altitudes and processed b y the “washed” method, in which the fruit is removed from the beans before drying. Although Brazil is the world’s leading grower, Colombia—thanks to the marketing success of the trademark Juan Valdez and his burro—may be the most recognized regional coffee. My favorite Colombian coffee comes from the Medellin region. Colombian Medellin beans have a rich, bold flavor and the direct personality that built Colombia’s reputation as a classic specialty coff ee. It’s broad-shouldered and solid, rich and clean with a lingering walnut note.This coffee can be hard to find and pricey, but it’s worth it.

Ethiopia Africa is the bir thplace of coffee.The range of taste experiences available from African coffees is breathtaking—from the pure and complex to the wild and untamed—and unmatched b y any other coffee family.Their common thread is quality and fla vor intensity, with medium to full acidity and body.The intense flavors of African coffees are colorful and diverse—Kenya’s bold winy nature; the musky, blueberry fruit of Ethiopian Harrar; and the sweet, floral and spicy Ethiopia Yrgacheffe— all these coffees offer a par ty of mouth-filling flavor. Yrgacheffe (Yer-ga-chef) is one of my top favorites, truly an exceptional cup that may be one of the world’s most prized coffees. Ethiopians consider its flavor an ultimate elegance and reser ve it for life’s biggest celebrations such as bir ths, marriages and the like.This coffee is grown in the Kaffa region of Ethiopia at an altitude of 8,000 f eet. An excellent afternoon brew, its tangy, intriguing flavor and intoxicating fragrance is reminiscent of flor al citrus, and it leaves you with the sweet taste of ripened fruit. Yrgacheffe, too, is a rare coffee, but it is cer tainly one of Africa’s best.

Indonesia Coffees from this area are among the most popular var ietal offerings. Over time, many coffee drinkers gravitate to these coffees because of their thick, full body and complex ear thy and spicy flavor.

Indonesian coffees are deep-toned and r ich with spicy, earthy flavors. Aromatic and naturally low in acid, they make great coffees to linger over. Deep flavor and full body makes these coffees indispensable for creating memorable blends. One of the most str iking coffees from this region is the luxurious Sumatra Mandheling. Earthy and unpredictable, this coffee has an unusually concentrated flavor reminiscent of strong herbs and nuts. Its heavy aroma is distinctively spicy and syrupy. Its richness and fullness make it a perfect accompaniment for a decadent dessert or just to enjoy by itself.

So, you may ask,“What about Hawaiian Kona, the infamous Jamaican Blue Mountain, or the elusive Kopi Luwak?” These are wonderful coffees, too; every coffee has its distinct identity and a profile that endears it to that cer tain coffee drinker.That is why coffee is so intr iguing, and why we constantly search f or that ultimate “perfect cup.”

Once you have settled on the var iety or b lend that sends you to coffee nirvana, don’t forget a few simple tips to maximize your enjoyment. Roasted coffee beans start to lose flavor within two weeks after roasting; ground coffee begins to lose fla vor in just an hour , and brewed coffee begins to lose fla vor within minutes after you make it. Take care to protect y our investment:

Store coffee beans in an air tight container in a cool, dark place.

Do not refrigerate your roasted coffee beans. Even in an airtight container, coffee beans quickl y absorb ev en mild refr igerator odors. And never—I repeat, never—freeze coffee beans. The delicate oils on the beans will jell, jeopardizing flavor. Finally, if you’re thinking about reheating that lefto ver cup of coff ee, think again. If you’re going to treat y our coffee that way, you might as well just drink instant.

Now go, be adventurous! Search out a coffee that you can identify as your own favorite. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Try blending varieties to create y our own household blend. Then sit back and savor one of life’s affordable luxuries. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 39

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kitchen essentials coffee press

BY DAVID LANGE

The French Press Now that you’ve found the coffee bean that’s right for you, you’ll want to bring it all together with a coffee brewing system that makes that perfect cup. Happily, you needn’t invest in a pricey, high-tech system to get the best from your beans. My advice? Take the plunge!

The coffee press plunge, that is, the simple but effective coffee brewing apparatus that Europeans call cafetiere and Americans dub the French press. Gaining popularity on this side of the Atlantic, the French press consists of a cylindr ical glass carafe snugly fitted with a metallic filter on a metal-rod handle. All you have to do is put a measured amount of fresh, coarsely ground coffee and hot water into the car afe.

Then after the proper brewing time, push the f ilter down to the bottom of the car afe, separating the brewed coffee grounds from the clean, clear coffee.

The French press offers distinct advantages over other brewing methods: The slow-

timed brew yields a rich, full-bodied coffee.

Unlike percolators, French press coff ee is never boiled, so there’s no r isk of bitter burned flavors; and there’s no paper filter, which can leach rich coffee oils out of your brew. What’s more, you can mak e just enough for a serving, so there’s no need to have leftovers losing their fla vor on a warming plate. The result is a full-bodied flavor that complements the natural quality of freshly roasted beans.

By far the most familiar br and in the U.S. is Bodum (www.bodum.us), but other good brands include Chef ’s Choice, Frieling, Thermos Nissan and Bonjour . The Bonjour gets particularly good recommendations from coffee “geeks” because of its effectiveness in keeping gritty grounds separate from the coffee.

a step by step guide > > >

40 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Using the French press Remove the plunger unit from the glass carafe.

For each 4-ounce cup of coffee, put one tab lespoon of ground coffee into the glass pot and four ounces of cold water into a saucepan or teak ettle. The coffee beans should be v ery coarsely ground; too fine a gr ind can result in a m uddy brew—or worse, a clogged plunger , which can cause hot liquid to splash out of the pot when you plunge.

Moisten the coffee with a tiny bit of cold water and stir. Bring the rest of the cold water to a boil, then remove from heat f or a few seconds (for best results, coffee brewing water should be just below boiling point); then pour the water over the grounds, leaving at least one inch of space in the top of the pot. For the best fla vor, stir the coffee continuously with a long-handled spoon (preferably clean wood or plastic , to avoid breaking the glass), while it steeps for about four minutes.

Finally, fit the plunger into the top of the pot, and slowly plunge down to f ilter the coff ee. When the plunger reaches the bottom of the pot, pour and serve the coffee.

One minor dr awback of the French press is that the coff ee cools quickly. To keep it war m, transfer it to a ther mal carafe or wrap a dishto wel around the carafe as a “coffee cozy.” Don’t leave the coffee in the pot with the grounds for long, though, as it will continue brewing. Pour it, add sugar and cream if y ou feel you must, and enjoy.

Finally, be aware that the French press process usually leaves a small amount of grounds or sediment in the bottom of your cup. So as good as French-press coffee can be, forget the Maxwell House slogan. This coffee is good to the next-to-last drop. F&D

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 41

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travel road trip

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BY RON JOHNSON

A

5

mericans love a road trip. In spite of soaring gas prices and interstate gridlock, we get in our cars and drive.

Louisville’s central location affords us a long list of regional cities to consider f or weekend visits.

Whether our destination is Cincinnati or St. Louis or beyond, a road tr ip is twice as thr illing when we expect good eats at jour ney’s end. Every city has its o wn dining niche , and many, like Louisville, offer an astonishing number of top quality restaur ants. There is strength in n umbers, but sometimes you need to nar row down to one. In that spirit, here are my top five road trip restaurant picks in nearby cities.

CINCINNATI Cincinnati offers a bustling and vibrant downtown with a bigcity feel, as well as esoteric and historically significant neighborhoods.

The city’s restaurants are varied and exciting at every price point.

Some provide an excuse to prowl the hilly and narrow streets of Mount Adams; others are worthy destinations in their own right.

Name the best? Impossible. In Cincinnati, it has to be two-for-one.

Smack-dab in the middle of the city’s busy downtown commercial and shopping district both Pigall’s and Bistro Jean Ro are run by the exuberant French Chef Jean-Rober t de Cavel.

Pigall’s is the high-end entr y of the duo , and it demonstr ates what de Cavel can do with tr ue French haute cuisine: a lot. Pigall’s menu, changing seasonally, lets diners sample three courses for $75 or pull out all the stops with the f ive-course Gourmand menu for $140. Either way, Pigall’s is an excellent choice to celebrate a special occasion, perhaps as the culinar y chapter of a romantic getaway.

COLUMBUS Just north of downtown Columbus, an easy walk or cab r ide from many downtown hotels, you’ll find the gentrified and quaintly designed neighborhood aptl y named Shor t North. It offers a pleasing variety of bars, bistros, and white tablecloth restaurants set amid art galleries and antique stores that invite window shopping.

The hidden secret of Columbus dining is literally hidden.Tiny Basi Italia, in a restored car riage house off an alley betw een Hubbard and Buttles Streets, is ensured locals-only status by its

PHOTO COURTESY OF PIGALL’S

Jean-Robert at Pigall’s guinea hen wrapped in bacon with saffron risotto.

Bistro Jean Ro may be the little brother of the de Cavel pair, but the f ood is f or grown-ups. Chef de cuisine Michael Cuffaro serves gutsy y et refined bistro cuisine amid vintage French ar t posters and a large blackboard boasting the plats de jour. Open for lunch as well as dinner, Bistro Jean Ro is fa vored by the business set, tourists and downtown shoppers alike.

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Chez Leon in St. Louis PHOTO COURTESY OF CHEZ LEON

hard-to-find location, but the occasional tourist is treated like royalty by the friendly and skilled waitstaff.The open kitchen hums with energy, turning out fine dishes like panroasted clams with micro greens and Chef Matthew Hite’s specialty, half of a roasted chicken in a sauce of gr apes and chive oil.

ST. LOUIS In St. Louis, dining is as different as the city’s many neighborhoods. One of the most interesting and notew orthy neighborhoods is the Central West End. Located between Forest P ark and downtown, the “CWE” houses a mix ed population of students, artists, and millionaires in a setting r ich with statel y Victorian architecture and sidewalk cafes. If that description sounds a bit lik e a neighborhood one might find in Paris, then you shouldn’t be surprised to find a great French bistro.

The best restaurant in the Central West End, if not all of St. Louis, is Chez Leon. Leon Bierbaum, a Francophile of the highest order, has transported the best of the authentic bistro exper ience to the Midwest. For those who miss Louisville’s Le Beaujolais and Deitrich’s, Chez Leon is a welcome oasis. A prix fixe three-course dinner for just more than $30 and a wonderful selection of French wines f or less than $40 per bottle mak e the experience all the more attr active.

Reservations are recommended on weekend evenings.

CHICAGO In Chicago, it’s Alinea. Not for the budget-minded or timid palates, Executive Chef Grant Achatz’s first restaurant is both a homage to his mentor,Thomas Keller, and a brash rebuttal to everything that Americans assume about f ine dining. In tasting menus of 10 or more cour ses, Achatz is a master at combining far -flung flavors so well that you wonder why no one thought of it before. Prices are high, making this a special-occasion restaur ant; but how often are you really going to be in the mood for a 17-course meal? Alinea rivals the best restaurants in New York City and the West Coast, and located as close as Chicago , makes it easy for Louisvillians to tr y. F&D

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PHOTO BY GRANT KESSLER

MEMPHIS While there is more to Memphis than rib shacks and pulled por k sandwiches, slow-smoked shoulder and dry-rubbed ribs are not to be missed dur ing a stay there.

Most folks have heard about the ’cue at The Rendezvous, a rib joint that became

world-famous for a reason; good ribs and good pulled pork abound.The Rendezvous built its reputation on fine dry-rubbed ribs, its proximity to the Peabody Hotel, and the hospitality of the Vergos clan, now in its second generation of r unning the place .

The wait can be long, but it is made bearable by the generous pour s of beer s on tap.The veteran wait-staff is reminiscent of Pat’s Steakhouse or Cunningham’ s, and most have no problem sharing an opinion as to the best bets on the men u.

1501 Mellwood Avenue Louisville, Kentucky 40206

502-587-7827 Fax: 502-587-7273

Dungeness crab with parsnip, coconut and cashews from Alinea in Chicago. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 43

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recipes top chef recipes

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Classic Picnic Baskets

with an upscale twist

ROARchestra, Hardscuffle Steeplechase, Heartstrings … the gr owing appeal of elegant outdoor charity fundraising events like these Louisville classics has added a decidedly upscale twist to the traditional picnic. H ere we offer two luxurious picnic baskets that will ser ve well at any alfr esco gathering, whether it’s white tie and tails or cut-offs and T-shirts.

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Ah,

the joy of picnicking—the sun, the heat, the sweat, the scent of insect repellent.The rickety picnic table and the comfort of sitting on a blanket on the damp, hard ground.The gusty breezes that b low away napkins and cups—the mosquitoes—the ants!

Remind me … what’s so great about a picnic?

Plenty, the experts say. “It’s a relaxing, summertime thing,” said Danielle DeMare, a certified sous chef and chef/instr uctor in Sullivan Univ ersity’s culinary program. “It’s the classic American Saturday or Sunday afternoon get-together. If it’s good friends, good fun and a good time, it’s worth it, definitely.”

DeMare’s colleague, Sullivan chef/instructor Sam Mudd, agreed. “Food always tastes better outdoors. I don’t know why, but when you get outside in the atmosphere, it just tastes different.You get that smell—the charcoal.

When you come home and y our neighbor is cooking with charcoal, you smell it, and you’ve got to have it too.”

Even if you don’t count the f irst cave people emerging, blinking into a sunny spring day to enjoy roast haunch of mammoth while squatting around a campfire, the picnic has been with us f or a very long time. The Oxford English Dictionary records the first appearance of the word “picnic” in English in 1748, borrowed from the French “Pique-nique” and defined as “a fashionable social enter tainment … a pleasure par ty including an excursion to some spot in the country where all partake of a repast out of doors.” Of course, these fashionable gatherings were a far cry from today’s picnics: In the era of King George III, one could easily muster a bevy of servants and footmen with fans to keep the flies at bay.

In the Americas, on the other hand, picnics have a more casual history.

From the New England clambake to the Texas barbecue, it’s always been more about friends, family and casual socializing in an outdoor setting where you don’t have to worry about keeping your napkin on your lap or puzzle over which fork to use.

But that’s now changing. In the past gener ation, Mudd and DeMare agreed, the American picnic—or some of them, anyway—has moved upscale.

“The times are changing,” Mudd said, pointing to outdoor charity fundraising events like the Hardscuffle Steeplechase and the Louisville Orchestra’s Heartstrings concerts, at which the well-off and elegant gather to meet and greet and enjo y fancy boxed lunches catered by some of the city’s top eateries. “People have shifted up in f ood,” he said. “Fifteen or 20 years ago it was all about fried chicken and fried potatoes, but now people want to tr y different things and k eep up with the Joneses. Even at U of L tailgating, if your neighbor has great ribs, you want to tr y to top them.”

For Food & Dining’s quarterly recipe challenge, we invited DeMare and Mudd to come up with picnic recipes that will w ow you. No burgers and hot dogs here, these are serious gourmet-style dishes that could grace a white-draped table at an urban bistro—or a picnic table in the park.

Both chefs said they selected dishes that sho w an upscale flair, yet are reasonably easy to prepare , and—a boon to picnic planning—can be prepared in advance and held in the refr igerator until picnic time.

Chef Sam Mudd’s luxurious alfresco spread graces a picnic table at historic Farmington. On the plate at center, fresh grilled tuna Pain Bagnat and waffle-cut gaufrette potatoes, with a dish of New Orleans-style pralines just to the left. Behind the pralines, w edges of warm Brie cheese on raspberry coulis. Fresh fruit kabobs make an artful display at right, with baguettes and wine to fill a picnic basket. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 45

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recipes top chef recipes

Chef Danielle M. DeMare Horseradish Encrusted Beef Tenderloin Sandwich on Focaccia with Arugula and Red Bell Pepper Salad SERVES 4 For the sandwich: 10- to12-ounce center beef tenderloin cut Salt and pepper 1 /2 cup prepared horseradish 1 /4 cup fine breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons melted butter or olive oil 2 small focaccia breads, sliced open for sandwich 1. Season beef with salt and pepper , place in refrigerator.

2. Mix together horseradish, breadcrumbs, butter or oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roll beef in this mixture, forming a crust on the meat.

3. Heat medium sautĂŠ pan over high heat with a small amount of b utter or oliv e oil.

Sear meat on all sides to form a brown crust.

4. Place in a 400-degree o ven for 10 minutes to f inish cooking; time will var y according to y our preference for rare or well-done.

5. Wrap beef in plastic wr ap while warm and place in refr igerator until cold. Thinly slice meat for sandwich.

For the salad: /2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoon champagne vinegar 11/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 /3 cup olive oil 11/2 cups washed arugula 1 /2 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper 1

1. Make a vinaigrette: Whisk together salt, vinegar and mustard. Slowly drizzle in olive oil while contin uing to whisk until ingredients are emulsified.

2. Drizzle small amount of vinaigrette o ver arugula and sliced pepper s. Season with salt and pepper . Toss. Greens should be lightly coated. Pour remaining dressing over the bottom half of each f ocaccia.

Assembly: Place sliced beef on the br ead dressed with vinaigrette, then add a gener ous amount of arugula salad and top with the remaining halves of br ead. Press

sandwiches together and cut in halv es with a serrated knife.

Cucumber Spears in Chunky Gorgonzola & Walnut Vinaigrette Dip (This dip is great with any of your favorite fresh vegetables)

SERVES 6 3 pickling cucumbers 1 /2 cup toasted, chopped walnuts 3 /4 cup Gorgonzola cheese in crumbles, or blue cheese of choice 1 anchovy fillet, optional 3 tablespoons Sherry vinegar Salt and pepper 3 /4 cup virgin olive oil 1. Cut off cucumber ends, and cut lengthwise into spear s. Season lightly with salt. Set aside. (If you prefer cucumbers without the skin, peel before cutting.)

2. Toss together chopped toasted waln uts and Gorgonzola, set aside.

3. Smash anchovy into vinegar, season with salt and pepper.Then slowly drizzle in olive oil while whisking.

4. Pour vinaigrette over Gorgonzola/walnut mixture, gently toss and refr igerate in a sealed container overnight.

5. For service, place cucumber spear s in serving dish of choice and spoon dip o ver spears. Garnish with freshly ground pepper.

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Beef tenderloin sandwich

Roasted Grape Tomatoes & Herbed Fresh Ricotta with Penne Pasta

(This dish can be ser ved warm or cold.)

SERVES 4 1 pint grape tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 /2 teaspoon pepper 1 /2 cup fresh ricotta cheese 2 teaspoons chopped basil 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 pound penne rigate pasta 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1. Cut grape tomatoes in half, place them in a shallow baking dish, and drizzle with oil, salt and pepper. Bake at 425 degrees for 20 minutes. Set aside to cool.

2. Mix ricotta, basil, parsley and gar lic.

Season with salt and pepper . Place in refrigerator to chill.

3. Cook pasta in salted water until al dente.

Toss pasta with tomatoes and their cooking

juices plus the f inely chopped lemon z est.

Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Divide into four servings. Top each serving with a generous scoop of r icotta mixture, freshly ground pepper and chopped basil.

Lemon-Almond Pound Cake with Cherry Smash (You can adjust the pound cake to your favorite flavor by changing the extract flavors. It also freezes well.)

MAKES 6 SMALL LOAVES For the pound cake: 1 pound of salted butter 23/4 cups of white granulated sugar 6 large eggs 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon pure almond extract 1 /2 teaspoon pure lemon extract 2 tablespoons of grated lemon zest,no pith 4 cups all-purpose flour 3 /4 cup whole milk 1 cup toasted sliced almonds 1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Grease six small loaf pans.

Chef Danielle DeMareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tempting picnic basket offers a classy selection of items including cucumber spears in a chunky G orgonzola dip at the center, flanked at lower left and upper right by focaccia piled high with thin-sliced beef tenderloin; penne pasta topped with roasted grape tomatoes and fresh herbed ricotta is at right.

2. Cream together b utter and sugar until light and fluffy . Add eggs one at a time while mixing. Add vanilla, almond and lemon extracts and lemon zest, mix.

3. Add flour and milk, alternating each a little at a time. Completely mix.

4. Separate batter ev enly among greased loaf pans. Lightly tap pans on flat surface to eliminate any air bubbles.

5. Bake at 300 degrees f or 1 hour and 40 minutes. Cool for 20 minutes, remove from pan and finish cooling on a wire r ack.

For the cherry smash: 2 cups fresh pitted cherries 2 tablespoons brown sugar, or to taste for preferred sweetness Dash of salt 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 /4 cup water 1. Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat until simmering. Take off heat, smash cherries with a fork and cool.

2. Store in any tightly sealed container f or up to three weeks in the refrigerator.

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recipes top chef recipes 2. In a bowl, combine orange juice and zest, vinegar and salt, pepper and sugar to taste.

Incorporate oil, and then add tar ragon, tomato and onion. Chill salad 1 to 2 hours.

Chef Sam Mudd Pain Bagnat (Pahn-bah-gnah)

SERVES 4 For the sandwich: 1 pound white albacore tuna seasoned with salt, pepper and olive oil Juice of 1 orange Zest of 1 orange 2 tablespoons champagne vinegar Salt Pepper Sugar 4 tablespoons salad oil 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon 3 Roma tomatoes, sliced 1 small red onion cut in thin julienne strips 2 cups baby greens Whole baguette toasted 1. Grill tuna to medium r are and chill.

Pain Bagnat

Assembly: Split baguette lengthwise. Place greens on the bottom half, add tomato and onion salad and top with thin slices of tuna.

Drizzle with dressing and cover with the top baguette half. Cut baguette on bias into four equal servings and wrap tightly in clear wrap.

Gaufrette Potatoes (goh-freht)

SERVES 4 3 large russet potatoes (peel and hold in cool water until ready to cut) Barbecue spice or any desired flavoring Salt Gaufrette is a thin waffle-textured vegetable cut on a mandoline; you can’t really do this with a knife.

1. Select the mandoline’s ridged blade and set it to the thinnest possib le setting, so long as the slice remains whole .

2. After making the f irst slice, give the

potato a one-quar ter turn and mak e a second slice.

3. Turn the potato back to the original position and make another slice, and so on.

As you cut the slices, drop them into hot tap water.

4. When ready to cook,drain the slices well and deep-fry them at 325 degrees until they’re crisp and ev enly browned. Season potatoes while they’re hot from the fr yer so that the spices adhere well.

Pralines

MAKES 2 DOZEN 11/2 cups granulated sugar 3 /4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1 /2 cup half and half 6 tablespoons salted butter 11/2 cups chopped pecans 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1. Bring the first three ingredients to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly.

2. Cook to soft-ball stage (235-240 degrees) while stirring occasionally.

3. Remove mixture from heat, add butter, but do not stir , and let stand until candy thermometer reaches 150 degrees.

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Fruit Kabob

4. Stir in pecans and vanilla,using a wooden spoon, and continue stirring constantly until candy thickens.

5. Drop heaping teaspoonfuls onto waxed paper or parchment. Work fast, candy will set quickly.

Fresh Fruit Kabobs

SERVES 10 Small seedless watermelon Cantaloupe Honeydew melon Gold pineapple 3 pints strawberries

1. Cut watermelon in half. Reserve one half to serve as a base to displa y the kabobs.

Peel the other half, and dice melon into 1/2inch cubes.

2. Peel and seed cantaloupe and honeydew melons. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes.

3. Peel and core pineapple. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes.

4. Wash strawberries and “cap” (remove

the green leaves) from all b ut a few; save ones with the prettiest green caps f or garnish.

5. Assemble fruit on 12-inch bamboo skewers, alternating colors. Leave enough room on the sharp end to stick the kabobs into the reserved half-melon for serving.

Brie with Raspberry Coulis

SERVES 4 1 small wheel of Brie 2 pints fresh raspberries 4 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1 /4 cup toasted almond slivers

1. Purée raspberries in blender, food processor or food mill.

2. Combine purée, sugar and lemon juice in a saucepan and simmer 3 to 4 min utes.

3. Strain coulis to remove seeds.

4. For service, place brie on a ser ving plate and drizzle brie and plate with the coulis. Garnish with almonds. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 49

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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY

Tomatoes Fifteen years ago, when Mark and Susan Stevens were making plans for the deli that would eventually become the popular Highlands institution that bears their names (“Stevens & Stevens,” that is, not “Mark & Susan”), they did a little scouting at Manhattan’s famed Dean & DeLuca, a veritable foodie mecca on Broadway downtown.

They had aspired to create a memorable pasta dish that might become a “signature” item for their deli. Inspired by the goodies at Dean & DeLuca, they created Tomatoes Alfresco; and Mark Stevens said the dish has succeeded beyond their dreams.

“This has been on our menu for the full 15 years we’ve been open,” he said. “It is our number one seller by far. It has a kind of picnic-Parisian quality, a picnic item with a European feel. It was going to be our signature pasta dish, and it worked out very well.”

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Tomatoes Alfresco sells across the deli counter at $4.95 f or a generous portion, and the menu description pretty much explains the recipe: “Bow-tie pasta, dried tomatoes, goat cheese, fresh basil, almonds and balsamic dressing. ” The goat cheese is the familiar soft white “log” from Judy Schad’s Capriole Farms in Souther n Indiana. He said: “We definitely wanted to use Judy’s cheese as par t of the dish— we’re friends from way back.”

Asked to suggest a favorite deli-style picnic dish for this ar ticle, par ticipants in the Louisville Restaurants Forum on LouisvilleHotBytes.com nominated the Tomatoes Alfresco by a hea vy margin.

When we invited them to tell us why they love it so much, we got an earful.

“The appeal of Tomatoes Alfresco is as much about texture as it is about flavor,” Jay Mazzoni said. “I like the contr asting textures of the ingredients: the tender but al dente pasta; the slightly chewy sun-dried tomatoes; the creamy goat cheese; and the crunch of the almonds.”

Louisvillian Cori C. agreed. “I just indulged in Tomatoes Alfresco today! It is absolutely my favorite thing to order at Stevens & Stev ens. It always reminds me of summer, even in the middle of the winter. I love the tang of it,and the melding of classic fla vors of tomato , balsamic vinegar, and basil with the goat cheese .”

Mark Stevens was happy to share the recipe so you can try it at home. Don’t be shy with the dressing, he said, as the pasta soaks up plenty of it. There’s no need to use expensive extra-virgin olive oil, but don’t skimp on the goat cheese: Use the real thing from Capriole.

In an un usual arrangement for local eateries, Stevens & Stev ens shares space with Ditto’s restaurant, occupying separate ends of the same b uilding at 1114 Bardstown Road, with common entrances and no wall betw een them, although management is separate. Call (502) 584DELI for details. F&D

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Stevens & Stevens’ Tomatoes Alfresco (SERVES 4) 1 pound bow-tie (farfalle) pasta 3 ounces sun-dried tomatoes (dr y, not packed in oil) 1/4 pound packaged fr esh basil (about 2 cups loosely packed) 1/4 pound Capriole goat cheese 3 ounces slivered toasted almonds For the balsamic vinaigrette: 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon sugar 3 ounces balsamic vinegar 3 ounces red-wine vinegar 9 ounces olive oil 1. Cook the pasta in a copious amount of boiling salted water for 7 minutes (or according to package instructions) until just al dente. “Shock” it by placing the drained pasta in ice water to cool it, then drain again.

2. Reconstitute the sun-dried tomatoes: Soak them in hot water f or a f ew minutes until they’re soft, then drain any excess liquid.

3. Pick off and discard the basil stems, and cut the lea ves into a f ine “chiffonade” by rolling sev eral of them together and then cutting them across into very thin strips.

4. Make the vinaigrette b y whisking together the m ustard, sugar, the two vinegars and the oil until they’ re well emulsified.

5. Put the pasta in a large bowl and stir in all the ingredients, garnishing the top with the sliv ered almonds. (If nut allergies are a concer n, the almonds may be eliminated.)

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dining guide

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ALL RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).

Alphabetical Index

[ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS. RESTAURANT

Cuisine Style

56

AFRICAN ASIAN/CHINESE ASIAN/FILIPINO ASIAN/JAPANESE ASIAN/KOREAN ASIAN/THAI ASIAN/VIETNAMESE BAR & GRILL BARBECUE BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY CAFÉS CAFETERIAS CAJUN/CREOLE CARIBBEAN/CUBAN CASUAL DINING COFFEE HOUSE DESSERTS/BAKERY ENTERTAINMENT DINING EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN EUROPEAN/GERMAN EUROPEAN/GREEK EUROPEAN/IRISH EUROPEAN/ITALIAN EUROPEAN/SPANISH FINE DINING HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN INDIAN MEXICAN MICROBREWERIES MIDDLE EASTERN PIZZA SANDWICH/DELI SEAFOOD SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX STEAKHOUSE UPSCALE CASUAL

73 73 75 75 76 76 76 72 70 58 60 67 78 78 63 80 81 67 77 77 77 77 77 78 56 66 78 79 73 78 68 69 61 80 63 57

Area Maps

82

MAP # DIRECTION PG # Overview 82 (Index) Downtown 84 1 (Downtown Louisville) Near East 85 2 (Highlands – Crescent Hill) East 86 3 (St. Matthews) South East 87 4 (Hikes Point – Buechel) East 88 5 (Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon) South East 89 6 (Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown) North East 90 7 (River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd.) North East 90 8 (Westport Rd.) Far East 91 9 (Middletown) North East 91 10 (Prospect) South East 91 11 (Fern Creek) South 92 12 (Airport – Okolona) South West 93 13 (Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park) Indiana 94 14 (New Albany – Floyds Knobs) Indiana 95 15 (Clarksville) Indiana 95 16 (Jeffersonville)

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

2 Hahn’s Mongolian Grill 211 Clover Lane 316 Ormsby 610 Magnolia A Nice Restaurant A Taste of China Alameda Alley Cat Café Amazing Grace Deli Anchor Inn Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Annie Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Another Place Anthony’s Anytimes Applebee’s Appleby’s Café Arni’s Pizza Aroma Café Artemisia Artisan’s Coffee Café Asian Buffet Asian Pearl Asiatique Atomic Saucer Atrium Café August Moon Austin’s Avalon Azalea Babby’s Steakhouse Babylon Backyard BBQ Backyard Burger Bahama Breeze Bakelicious Bake’s Barbeque The Bakery Bamboo House Bank Shot Billiards Barbara Lee’s Kitchen Baxter Station Bazos Mexican Grill Bean Street Café Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s Beg for More Café Behar Café Bendoya Sushi Bar Bentley’s Big Ben's Barbeque Big Dave’s Outpost Big Hopp’s Big Subs Blimpie’s Subs BLU Mediterranean Grille Blue Dog Bakery Blue Mule Sports Café Blue Peppermill Café Bluegrass Brewing Co. Bluegrass Café Bombay Int’l. Market Bonefish Grill Bootleg Barbecue Co. Bourbon Bros. BBQ Bourbons Bistro Brandon’s Bar-B-Que Bravo!

Breadworks Brick Oven Bristol Bar & Grille Browning’s Brewery Buca Di Beppo Buckhead Mountain Grill Buck’s Buffalo Crossing Buffalo Wild Wings Bull Frog Garden Bulldog Café The Butterfly Garden Café C.A.P.P.P.’s Deli

MAP #

73 Asian/Chinese 6 56 Fine Dining 3 58 Bistro/Contemporary 1 56 Fine Dining 1 63 Casual Dining 14, 16 73 Asian/Chinese 1 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 2 60 Cafés 9 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style/Southern 9 68 Pizza 13 68 Pizza 4 76 Asian/Vietnamese 12 68 Pizza 1, 13 67 Cafeterias 16 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 63 Casual Dining 7 63 Casual Dining [9] 60 Cafés 16 68 Pizza 14 60 Cafés 14 57 Upscale Casual 1 80 Coffee House 7 73 Asian/Chinese 14, 15 73 Asian/Chinese 6 57 Upscale Casual 2 80 Coffee House 1 58 Bistro/Contemporary 5 73 Asian/Chinese 2 57 Upscale Casual 7 57 Upscale Casual 2 57 Upscale Casual 7 63 Steakhouse 16 78 Middle Eastern 2 70 Barbecue 14 69 Sandwich/Deli 6 78 Caribbean/Cuban 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 12 71 Barbecue 13 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 73 Asian/Chinese 12 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Home Style/Southern 2 58 Bistro/Contemporary 2 79 Mexican 3, 9 80 Coffee House 14 68 Pizza [12] 72 Bar & Grill 3, 8, 9, 12 60 Cafés 12 77 European/Bosnian 12 75 Asian/Japanese 1 64 Casual Dining 1 71 Barbecue 16 72 Bar & Grill 2 64 Casual Dining 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4, 6 57 Upscale Casual 1 60 Cafés 2 72 Bar & Grill 6 60 Cafés 14 73 Microbreweries 1, 3 60 Cafés 4 78 Indian 2 61 Seafood 5 71 Barbecue 11, 12 71 Barbecue 2 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 71 Barbecue 8 57 Upscale Casual 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 77 European/Italian 6 57 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5 73 Microbreweries 1 77 European/Italian 6 64 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12, 16 56 Fine Dining 1 67 Ent. Dining 6 72 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 64 Casual Dining 11 60 Cafés 12 60 Cafés 2 69 Sandwich/Deli 3

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Café 360 The Café at the Antique Mall Café Emilie Café Fraiche Café J Café Kilimanjaro Café Lou Lou Café Metro Café Mimosa Caffe Classico California’s Coffee House California Pizza Kitchen Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carolina Shrimp & Seafood Carolyn’s Carrabba’s Italian Grille Champions Grill Champion’s Sports Rest.

Ch¯ eba Hut Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café Chez Seneba African Chick Inn The Chicken House Chicken King Chili’s China Buffet China Garden China Inn China King China King Palace China Sea Buffet Chinatown Chinese Chef Chinese Express Chinese Restaurant Chong Garden Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Ciano’s Cici’s City Café City Wok Clark Boy Bar-B-Que Clarksville Seafood Cleon’s Rib Shack Cleo’s Coffee Clifton’s Pizza Club Grotto Coach Lamp Coffee Beanery Coffee Pot Café Colonnade Cafeteria Come Back Inn Corner Café Cottage Café Cottage Inn Country Kitchen Coys’ Cravings a la Carte Crawdaddy's Café Cribstone Pub Crystal Chinese Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s Cutting Board Café Cyclers Café Danish Express Day’s Espresso DBL Shotz De La Torre’s Deke’s Marketplace Grill Del Frisco’s Delta Restaurant Derby Café Derby City Café by Dalal Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts by Helen De-ville’s Diamante Diamond Pub & Billiards Diefenbach Café Dillon’s Steakhouse Dinner Is Done Dino’s Down to Lunch Ditto’s Grill Dixie Cup Café

MAP #

78 Middle Eastern 2 60 Cafés 1 57 Upscale Casual 3 61 Cafés 7 61 Cafés 3 73 African 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 56 Fine Dining 2 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 81 Coffee House 2 81 Coffee House 14 68 Pizza 5 64 Casual Dining 10 64 Casual Dining 12 62 Seafood 3 66 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Italian 5 64 Casual Dining 16 72 Bar & Grill 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style/Southern 1 61 Cafés 3, 9 64 Casual Dining 8, 15 73 African 12 64 Casual Dining 10 66 Home Style/Southern 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 64 Casual Dining 5 73 Asian/Chinese 15 73 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 6, 14 73 Asian/Chinese 11 73 Asian/Chinese 9 73 Asian/Chinese 3, 12 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 9 68 Pizza 4, 14 61 Cafés 1, 2 73 Asian/Chinese 1 71 Barbecue 13 62 Seafood 15 71 Barbecue 1 81 Coffee House 14 68 Pizza 2 57 Upscale Casual 2 57 Upscale Casual 1 81 Coffee House 5 81 Coffee House 1 67 Cafeterias 1 77 European/Italian 1, 16 57 Upscale Casual 5 66 Home Style/Southern 9 66 Home Style/Southern 1 66 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Casual Dining 12 67 Cafeterias 1 78 Cajun/Creole 16 72 Bar & Grill 2 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Microbreweries 2 64 Casual Dining 1 61 Cafés 8 61 Cafés 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 81 Coffee House 1, 2 81 Coffee House 16 78 European/Spanish 2 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1 63 Steakhouse 3 72 Bar & Grill 1 61 Cafés 12 61 Cafés 4 67 Ent. Dining 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 66 Home Style/Southern 12 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 72 Bar & Grill 3 61 Cafés 15 63 Steakhouse 6 66 Home Style/Southern 6 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 61 Cafés 13

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RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Djuli Dmitri’s Deli D’Nalley’s Restaurant Domino’s Pizza Don Pablos Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon 8 Double Dragon 9 Double Dragon Buffet Double Dragon II Downtown New Orleans Dragon Garden Dutch’s Tavern Dynasty Buffet Eastern House Edna’s Good Stuff Eggroll King Eggroll Machine El Caporal El Mundo El Nopal El Nopalito El Paraiso El Restaurante Chiquito El Rey Mexican El Rodeo Mexican El Tarasco Emperor of China Empress of China Encore at Actors Theatre The English Grill Equus Erika’s German Rest.

Ermin’s French Bakery Ernesto’s Euro Market Eva Mae's Expressions of You Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que Fast Break Pizza Fat Jimmy’s Federal Hill Feed Bag Deli Ferd Grisanti Fiesta Time Mexican Grill Fifth Quarter Figaro’s Pizzeria Finley’s BBQ Firehouse BBQ First Wok The Fish House The Fish Hut The Fishery The Fishery Station Flabby’s Schnitzelburg The Flagship Flanigans Ale House Fork in the Road Formosa Chinese Fountain Room Four King’s Café Fox & Hound Frank’s Steak House Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli Fratello’s Pizza Frolio’s Pizza Fuji Steakhouse Furlong’s Garden Room Café Gasthaus Gavi’s Restaurant Geli Cakes Genny’s Diner Germantown Café Gerstle’s Place Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Wall Goose Creek Diner Gourmet Grazing Grand Buffet Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grapevine Pantry Great American Grill Great Wall Great Wok Gumbo A Go-Go

MAP #

70 Sandwich/Deli 1 77 European/Bosnian 12 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Home Style/Southern 1 68 Pizza [20] 79 Mexican 15 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5, 7, 9, 14 73 Asian/Chinese 2,3 74 Asian/Chinese 1 74 Asian/Chinese 6 74 Asian/Chinese 5 74 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11 78 Cajun/Creole 1 74 Asian/Chinese 2 72 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Chinese 7 74 Asian/Chinese 13 75 Asian/Filipino 6 74 Asian/Chinese 13 74 Asian/Chinese 2 79 Mexican 4,6,12,15 79 Mexican 2 79 Mexican 6, 8, 12 79 Mexican 2, 4, 11 79 Mexican 12 79 Mexican 14 79 Mexican 4 79 Mexican 13 79 Mexican 3, 12 74 Asian/Chinese 7 74 Asian/Chinese 4 57 Upscale Casual 1 56 Fine Dining 1 56 Fine Dining 3 77 European/German 6 61 Cafés 1, 10, 14 79 Mexican 3, 5, 12, 16 70 Sandwich/Deli 8 65 Casual Dining 16 81 Coffee House 7 71 Barbecue 6, 15 68 Pizza 8 68 Pizza 2, 5 61 Cafés 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 77 European/Italian 6 79 Mexican 8 63 Steakhouse 12 68 Pizza 9 71 Barbecue 1 71 Barbecue 4, 5, 11 74 Asian/Chinese 13 62 Seafood 2 62 Seafood 1 62 Seafood 3 62 Seafood 11 72 Bar & Grill 1 56 Fine Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 2 66 Home Style/Southern 13 74 Asian/Chinese 14 65 Casual Dining 1 72 Bar & Grill 4 72 Bar & Grill 3 63 Steakhouse 16 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 68 Pizza 16 68 Pizza 12 75 Asian/Japanese 8 78 Cajun/Creole 2 61 Cafés 1 77 European/German 7 65 Casual Dining 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style/Southern 2 61 Cafés 1 72 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 8 61 Cafés 10 74 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Bar & Grill 1 78 Middle Eastern 2 61 Cafés 9 72 Bar & Grill 12 74 Asian/Chinese 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 78 Cajun/Creole 2

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Hall’s Cafeteria Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café Harper’s Restaurant Harvest Moon Havana Rumba Hazelwood Restaurant Heather’s On The River Heavenly Ham Heine Brothers Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Highland Coffee Co. Highlands Taproom Hitching Post Inn Hobknobb Roasting Co. Holly’s Legal Street Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters Hot Dog Heaven House of Dragon Howl at the Moon Ichiban Samurai Imperial Palace Indi’s Restaurant India Palace The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Harrods Jabber’s Sports Grill Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jade Palace Jalapeño’s Jane’s Cafeteria Jarfi’s Bistro Jasmine Java Brewing Co. Jay’s Cafeteria Jazz Factory Jersey Mike’s Subs Jessie’s Restaurant Jillian’s Jimbo’s BBQ Jimmy’s on the River Joe Huber Restaurant Joe Muggs Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John E’s JoJo’s Fish Market Juanita’s Burger Boy Juan's Mexican Restaurant Jucy’s Smokehouse Julie’s of Jeffersonville Jumbo Buffet Kaelin’s Restaurant Kashmir Indian Kern’s Korner Kim’s Asian Grille King Buffet King Wok Kingfish King’s Buffet Kings Fast Food King’s Fried Chicken Kobe Japanese Steak Koreana II KT’s Kunz’s KY Taco L&N Wine Bar and Bistro La Bamba La Bodega La Embajada La Herradura La Marimba La Peche II La Petit Patisserie La Tapatia Lazy Jane Café Le Relais Leander’s on Oak Lee’s Korean

MAP #

67 Cafeterias 2 74 Asian/Chinese 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 5 74 Asian/Chinese 5 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 66 Home Style/Southern 13 65 Casual Dining 7 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 81 Coffee House 2, 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 81 Coffee House 1, 2 68 Pizza 2 72 Bar & Grill 11 81 Coffee House 14 66 Home Style/Southern 1 66 Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 68 Pizza 7, 9, 13 74 Asian/Chinese 14 74 Asian/Chinese 12 72 Bar & Grill 8, 12 65 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 74 Asian/Chinese 3 67 Entertainment Dining 1 75 Asian/Japanese 6 74 Asian/Chinese 11 66 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 78 Indian 5 77 European/Irish 2, 7 68 Pizza 13 57 Upscale Casual 3 61 Cafés 1 57 Upscale Casual 3 72 Bar & Grill 11 57 Upscale Casual 2 59 Bistro/Contemporary 3 74 Asian/Chinese 7 79 Mexican 13 67 Cafeterias 4 57 Upscale Casual 1 74 Asian/Chinese 9 81 Coffee House 1, 2, 3, 9, 10 67 Cafeterias 1 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 66 Home Style/Southern 13 68 Entertainment Dining 2 71 Barbecue 12 65 Casual Dining 16 68 Ent. Dining 14 81 Coffee House 3, 8 62 Seafood 1 78 Cajun/Creole 6 65 Casual Dining 5 57 Upscale Casual 4 62 Seafood 4 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Mexican 4 71 Barbecue 5 70 Sandwich/Deli 16 74 Asian/Chinese 6 65 Casual Dining 2 78 Indian 2 65 Casual Dining 2 76 Asian/Korean 1 74 Asian/Chinese 6 74 Asian/Chinese 3 62 Seafood 4, 6, 7, 13, 16 74 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style/Southern 13 66 Home Style/Southern 1 75 Asian/Japanese 16 76 Asian/Korean 12 57 Upscale Casual 2 56 Fine Dining 1 79 Mexican 11 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 79 Mexican 2 78 European/Spanish 2 80 Mexican 12 80 Mexican 15 80 Mexican 11 59 Bistro/Contemporary 7 61 Cafés 1 80 Mexican 2 61 Cafés 8 56 Fine Dining 4 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 76 Asian/Korean 12

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PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Legend’s 65 Lemongrass Café 77 Lentini’s 77 The Lighthouse 72 Lilly’s 56 Limestone 58 Lindy’s 66 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Little Chef 70 Logan’s Roadhouse 63 Logos Coffee House 81 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 80 Lone Star Steakhouse 63 Longhorn Steakhouse 63 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 70 Los Aztecas 80 Los Indios Mexicano 80 Lotsa Pasta 70 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Lucky Dragon 74 Lucky House Buffet 74 Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt 58 Luigi’s 77 Lunch Today 70 Lynn’s Paradise Café 65 Ma Zerellas 68 Magic Corner Bakery 81 Maharaja Indian Restaurant 78 Maido Essential Japanese 75 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 76 Main Eatery 70 Main Menu 65 Main Street Grind 61 Maker’s Mark Lounge 58 Mambo 79 Manchu Wok 75 Mancino’s Pizza 68 Manhattan Grill 65 Manoosh’s 78 Mark’s Feed Store 71 Martini Italian Bistro 77 Master's International 81 Masterson’s 65 Max & Erma’s 65 Mayan Gypsy 80 Mazzoni’s Oyster Café 62 McAlister’s Deli 70 Melillo’s 78 The Melting Pot 58 Meridian Café 61 Mexican Fiesta 80 Mexico Tipico 80 Michael Murphy’s 72 Mike Linnig’s 62 Mitchell’s Fish Market 62 Moe’s Southwest Grill 80 Molly Malone’s 77 The Monkey Wrench 65 Morton’s of Chicago 63 Mr. Gattis 68 Mr. Lou’s 66 Mr. Z’s Kitchen 61 My Favorite Muffin 81 My Old KY Dinner Train 68 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 70 Napa River Grill 58 Neil’s Place 66 Nero’s 58 New Direction Bar & Grill 72 New World Buffet 75 New York Capri Pizza 68 Nik's Riviera Café 77 Nord’s Brown Bag Deli 70 North End Café 61 O’Charley’s 65 O’Dolly’s 66 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 77 The Oakroom 56 Old Spaghetti Factory 78 Old Stone Inn 58 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 71 The Olive Garden 78 Olive’s on Fourth 66 Ollie’s Trolley 70 Omar’s Gyro 78 On the Border 80 Onion Rest.Tea House 75 Oriental Express 75 Oriental House 75 Oriental Star 75 54 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 9 European/Italian 2 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 2 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 12 Pizza 6, 11, 12 Sandwich/Deli 14 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 Coffee House 2 Mexican 12 Steakhouse 5 Steakhouse 6 Sandwich/Deli 3 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 Mexican 14 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 6 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 4 Upscale Casual 1 European/Italian 1 Sandwich/Deli 16 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 15 Desserts/Bakery 1 Indian 2 Asian/Japanese 2 Asian/Thai 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Caribbean/Cuban 12 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 7 Casual Dining 1 Middle Eastern 1 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 European/Italian 8 Coffee House 11 Casual Dining 1 Casual Dining 6, 8 Mexican 1 Seafood 4 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 11, 15 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Cafés 3 Mexican 11 Mexican 13 Bar & Grill 1 Seafood 13 Seafood 8 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9 European/Irish 2 Casual Dining 2 Steakhouse 1 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 6, 12, 13 Home Style/Southern 13 Cafés 1 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 Entertainment Dining 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 3 Home Style/Southern 14 Upscale Casual 14 Bar & Grill 8 Asian/Chinese 8 Pizza 15 European/Greek 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 11 European/Italian 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Sandwich/Deli 1 Middle Eastern 2 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 12

RESTAURANT

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Osaka Sushi Bar 76 Oscar Brown’s Southbeach 60 Otto’s Café 65 Outback Steakhouse 63 Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Palermo Viejo 78 Panda Chinese 75 Panera Bread Co. 70 Papa Johns Pizza 68 Papillon Grill & Bar 77 Park Place Restaurant 56 Parrott Beach 58 Pat’s Steak House 63 The Patron 58 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Pearly’s Seafood 63 Peking City 75 Penn Station 70 Pepper Shaker Bar-B-Q 71 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 78 Petterson’s Bar-B-Q Barn 71 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 Picnicaters BBQ 71 Pie in the Sky 68 Pigasus 71 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 71 Pizza Box 68 Pizza By The Guy 68 Pizza Hut 68 Pizza King 68 Pizza Magia 68 Pizza Place 68 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Po-Boy Shoppe 70 Ponderosa Steakhouse 63 Porcini 78 Portico 56 Prospect Fish Market 63 The Pub Louisville 66 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 73 Queenie’s Pizza & Such 68 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 70 R Place Pub 72 Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Rainbow Blossom 81 Ramsi’s Café 60 Ranch House 65 Ray Parrella’s 78 Red Cheetah Lounge 58 Red Lounge 60 Red Star Tavern 58 Rich O’s Public House 73 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 58 Rincon Latino 80 River Grille 65 Roadway Wings 66 Rockwall Bistro 58 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 71 Ruby Tuesday 65 The Rudyard Kipling 65 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 63 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 63 Ryan’s Steakhouse 63 Saddle Ridge Saloon 72 Saffron’s 78 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Saint’s 72 Sakura Blue 76 Sala Thai 76 Sam’s Food & Spirits 65 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sarajevo 77 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Scotty’s Ribs 71 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Shalimar Indian 78 Shane’s 66 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Shemroun's Persian Grill 78 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77

MAP #

Asian/Japanese 2 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 Pizza 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli 3, 6, 8 Pizza [30] European/Bosnian 2 Fine Dining 1 Upscale Casual 1 Steakhouse 2 Upscale Casual 3 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Seafood 7 Asian/Chinese 8 Sandwich/Deli [11] Barbecue 12 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Barbecue 15 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Pizza 6 Barbecue 14 Barbecue 1 Pizza 8 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza [13] Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 Mexican 14 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 15 African 4 Pizza 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [15] Bar & Grill 12 Casual Dining 3, 8 Desserts/Bakery 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 14 European/Italian 2 Upscale Casual 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 3 Mexican 8 Casual Dining 1 Home Style/Southern 13 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 16 European/Italian 5 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 12 Barbecue 12 Casual Dining 3, 6 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 12, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 European/Bosnian 11 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9, 12 Barbecue 9 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Indian 6 Casual Dining 10 Asian/Chinese 1 Middle Eastern 2 European/Irish 2

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Shogun 76 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 66 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12 Sichuan Garden 75 Asian/Chinese 6 Skyline Chili 66 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Smokey Bones BBQ 71 Barbecue 6 Smokin BBQ 71 Barbecue 16 Soupy’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6, 8, 13 South Side Inn 67 Cafeterias 14 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 68 Pizza 2 Sportstime Pizza 68 Pizza 14 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 63 Seafood 3 Star of Louisville 68 Ent. Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [11] Starving Artist Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 66 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Stoney River 63 Steakhouse 8 Strawberry Patch Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 68 Ent. Dining 14 Sub Station II 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 61 Cafés 2 Sweet Surrender 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 12 Taj India 78 Indian 6 Teranga African Rest.

73 African 4 Tequila Mexican Rest.

80 Mexican 12 Texas Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 66 Casual Dining 1, 6, 7 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Kitchen 76 Asian/Thai 13 Thai Siam 76 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 76 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 76 Asian/Thai 2 The Other Place 66 Casual Dining 2 Third and Main Café 61 Cafés 1 Third Avenue Café 61 Cafés 1 Thyme Café 61 Cafés 1 Tijuana Flats Burrito Co. 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 7 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Toll Bridge Inn 66 Home Style/Southern 14 Tommy Lancaster 66 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 69 Pizza 2, 3 Tony Impellizeri's Italian 69 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 71 Barbecue 5 Trellis Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 Trestle Sports Café 72 Bar & Grill 6 Tucker’s 66 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Twiams Chicken & Waffles 66 Casual Dining 13 Twice-Told Café 68 Ent. Dining 7 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Two Guys and a Grill 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 Uno Chicago Bar & Grill 69 Pizza 11 Uptown Café 58 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 66 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 56 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 69 Pizza 12 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Wang’s Wok 75 Asian/Chinese 9 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Whitney’s Diner 61 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Oats Market 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Willie’s Italian 78 European/Italian 13 Winston’s 56 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Woodford Reserve Grille 72 Bar & Grill 12 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 58 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 ZaZoo’s 72 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 56 Fine Dining 5

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UNLESS NOTED OTHERWISE, ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE. ALL KENTUCKY PHONE NUMBERS LIS TED ARE IN THE 50 2 AREA C ODE, INDIANA PHONE NUMBERS ARE IN THE 812 AREA CODE. RED DENOTES AN ADVERTISER.

$ $$ $$$ $$$$

p

f

e

= = = = = = =

Average Entrée under $8 Average Entrée $9–$14 Average Entrée $15–$20 Average Entrée $21 & up Full Bar Outdoor Dining Live Music

2 11 CLOVER LANE RES TAURANT 2 11 Clover Ln., 896-9570. 2 11 Clo ver’s longtime manag er Andy Smith now owns the place, but its upscale atmosphere and cr eative cuisine of this s tylish spot in St. Matthe ws continue to rank it among the city’s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s distinctive, eclectic take on creative international cookery places his personal signature on every dish at this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant, which c onsistently ranks among the city’ s top tables f or food, drink and service. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 42 5 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-52 84. Eclectic Victorian with t ongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not overstated, this fine dining room on the ground floor of Old L ouisville’s genteel old Mayflower Apartments c ombines a w elcoming attitude with high-quality f are and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bardstown Rd., 458-4830 . A local tradition that helped establish Bardstown Road as one of the city’ s “restaurant rows” a generation ago, Café Metr o remains an upscale landmark; current Chef Michael Crouch continues to please Metro’s loyal fans. $$$ p ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Camberly Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same downtown landmark that our parents and grandparents enjoyed. Chef Joe Castro continues to win r aves for creative, inventive (and e xpensive) fare that mak es the Brown a major player in the downtown-hotel dining sweepstakes. $$$$ p

LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Chef Kathy Cary seems to spend as much time in New York City as she does in L ouisville. As a r epeat invitee to Manhattan’s James Bear d House, she shar es her Kentucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’s combines style and Cary’s creative cookery to keep this landmark near the t op of the city’s dining list. $$$$ p e THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-32 00. Chef de Cuisine Todd Richards is finding his own voice at the Seelbach, adding innovative touches while he maintains the quality that has earned this elegant hotel dining room its four-star rating and s tatus as a “mus t-visit” destination for visitors and locals alike. $$$$ p PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 2 . With Anoosh Shariat as executive chef and Jerry Slater as GM, the signature restaurant in Louisville Slugger Field has moved beyond its origins as a s teakhouse to join the city’ s top tier of upscale dining rooms. $$$$ p f e PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and s tyle bring a tas te of Las V egas to Metro Louisville in this pric ey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the grounds of

Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high roller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p SEVICHE A LA TIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. W e’re delighted to see Chef Anthony Lamas back in busines s in the same location as his pr evious Jicama Grill, with f ew changes to the popular f ormula. Seviche, as the name implies, specializ es in the Latino seaf ood specialty of fish “cooked” in tart citrus juic es. But there’s much mor e, too, and this nue vo Latino spot remains one of the city’s best. $$$$ p f VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580- 1350. Known for its suavely professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and some tr ademark dishes prepared at tableside, Vincenzo’s owns a place as one of Louisville’s top tables. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Culinary arts students at Sullivan University staff this finedining restaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Cas tro. Several of the city’s top chefs got their training here. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p Z’S OYSTER BAR & S TEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that’s previously been

Louisville’s Best Catch.

Equus Restaurant has a tradition of serving the best Parmesan-Coated Sea Bass and USDA Prime Beef Steaks in town.

Equus has been preparing fine continental cuisine with Kentucky accents for 19 years.

WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN?

EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Tucked away in a simple white-brick building, Equus is a block off the main drag in St. Matthe ws, but happy diners beat a path to its door. Very fine international cuisine, a s tylish setting and firs t-rate service combine to make it one of the city’ s top dining rooms. $$$$ p THE FLAGSHIP 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. $$$$ e KUNZ’S FOURTH AND MARKET 115 S. F ourth St., 585-5555. One of the oldest restaurants in Louisville, Kunz’s has mo ved over the y ears to several downtown locations. Its original German accent has mut ed with time , and it no longer ranks among the city’ s top tables, but it s till provides old-fashioned, hearty s teaks along with seafood and more modern fare. $$$ p LE RELAIS 2 817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bo wman Field), 451-902 0. Another longs tanding contender for the city’s top table, this s tylish art dec o spot beautifully uses a historic 192 0s airport building to present elegant modern Fr ench cuisine fr om Chef Daniel Stage . It’s not jus t the city’ s best French restaurant but a contender for best of the region. $$$$ p f e 56 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

EQUUS RESTAURANT 1 2 2 S E A R S AV E N U E • S T. M AT T H E W S • ( 5 0 2 ) 8 9 7 - 9 7 2 1

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hard to find outside the city. Armed with e xcellent, oversize steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience, Z’s thoroughly outguns the upscale steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

ARTEMISIA 62 0 E. Mark et St., 583-4 177. As the bustling arts scene in this east-of-downtown neighborhood has blos somed, Artemisia has evolved right along with it. A f avorite dinner venue in a gallery setting, Art emisia offers fare to please both v egetarians and omniv ores, plus an attractive alfresco dining option in its enclosed courtyard. $$$ p f e ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi, who has won diners’ raves and many culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long t enure in St. Matthews, transplanted his innovative Asian-fusion restaurant to larger and even more striking quarters on the bus y Bardstown Road corridor, where he has kicked things up still another notch. $$$ p f AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with hea vy emphasis on the bar , this suburban watering hole taps the same v ein as the national franchise booze ‘n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p

COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but C oach Lamp turns int o a serious dining r oom Wednesday through Saturday evenings with well-prepared dishes from Chef Jerome Pope that r ange from down-home favorites to pastas. With former Brown Hotel in the kitchen, this is a place to watch. $$$ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119.

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ENCORE RESTAURANT AT ACTORS THEATRE 316 W. Main St., 561-3344. Not so much a des tination restaurant as a dec ent place to dine bef ore the theater. $$ p J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2 2 06. This comfortably upscale v enue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a br oad menu that r anges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8-4555. J .

Harrod’s is discr eetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality

and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bis tro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 45 2 -92 44. If y ou want to give visiting fri ends a one-shot sample o f Louisville’s urban dining s tyle, there’s no bett er destination than Jack Fry’ s. This popular spot is always packed. It saves just a whiff of the raffish aspect of its 1960s-era predecessor, a local saloon, but upgrades it with creative American fare in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e JARFI’S BISTRO 501 W. Main St., 589-5060 . The affable Jeff Jarfi is the epon ymous host of this sharp, stylish venue in the K entucky Center for the Arts. Eclectic cuisine—including sushi!—plus popular lunch and pr e-theater buffets are attracting happy crowds. $$$ p JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. This old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its c ozy setting in a his toric Buechel home to its do wn-home service to its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e KT’S 2 300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It ’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f

AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. Chef Nathan Carlson pr esides over this s tylish Bardstown Road spot, offering a fresh and creative bill of f are that pr esents American and international cuisine with a distinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the y ear. $$$ p f AZALEA 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 895-54 93. Another of the city’ s longtime f avorites, Azalea delights with creative American and fusion-s tyle fare whether you dine in or enjo y the open air of its shady, brick-walled patio. $$$ p f BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 2 80 W. Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 671-42 85. The signature restaurant in the city’s newest convention hotel, BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in s triking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble . BLU is on track to join the city’s top tables. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p BRAVO! 2 06 Bullitt Ln. ( Oxmoor Center), 32 6-0491.

Management describes the Ohio-based Br avo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery ... positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A R oman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 132 1 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 100 E. Jefferson St., 540-3214, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a star on L ouisville’s bistro scene since it helped kick off the Bardstown Road restaurant renaissance some 25 years ago. Old standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bris tol Burger are always reliable, and the wine pr ogram is exceptional. $$ p f CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. Tucked into a c orner of a tas teful furniture shop, Café Emilie is worth a visit. T his French-accented East End eatery is a r ecent and w elcome addition t o the neighborhood’s casual dining options. $$ f CLUB GROTTO 2 116 Bardstown Rd., 459-52 75.

Following a series of changes in leadership at this Highlands favorite, longtime Chef Michael Ne w is back at the helm after a few years away. With New’s international bistro dishes and Club Grotto’s stylish and romantically dim en virons, this sometimes overlooked spot is worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p

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LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant business, keep doing what you do best. Chefs Jim Gerhardt and Michael Cunha have followed this simple f ormula with considerable success at Limestone, transporting the c oncept that br ought them international culinary k udos at the Seelbach’ s Oakroom with good eff ect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p LUCKY STRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Street Live, 560-1400. An upscale bowling alley? A classy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian F oster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle retro and high-t ech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Street Live, 568-9009. Under a lic ensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Dis tillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. The draw is a magisterial bar featuring more than 60 Bourbons, along with an attr active menu f eaturing traditional Kentucky fare $$$ p f

MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

Spanning California and the Pacific Rim, this starkly modern St. Matthews venue has earned its reputation as one of the city’ s top tables on the basis of consistent, top-quality fare and excellent service. Innovative wine-country cuisine prepared with skill combines with a well-chosen, fairly priced wine c ollection that sho wcases the California wine scene. $$$ p f NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portico as the sec ond high-end, fine-dining restaurant at Caesar ’s Indiana, Nero’s complements Portico’s all-American steak-andseafood theme with a broader international menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpson ville, KY, (502) 722-8200. This historic stone building east of Louisville in Simpson ville, housed a popular restaurant for more than a generation. After a brief resurrection by Simpsonville’s sausage-making

Purnell family, it is no w under the management of Paul Crump, formerly of Porcini. Crump’s skills and the comfortably nostalgic atmosphere make this a hot spot. $$$ p f PARROTT BEACH Fourth Street Live, 589-5336. $$ pf e THE PATRON 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-1661.

Viewed from the perspective of an evening meal, the Patron offers some of the bes t cooking in town. Chef Amber McC ool offers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what ’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $ RED CHEETAH LOUNGE Fourth Street Live, 5890695. $$ p e RED STAR TAVERN Fourth Street Live, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this new chain operation in the rehabilitated former Galleria features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmospher e that’s upscale and clubby, with an e xtensive bar as a k ey part of the action. $$$ p f RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Sometimes things come full circle, and sometimes we’re very glad. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dissell has returned to his original home, returning the name “Rick’ s” to the first restaurant that bor e his name . Look for the same familiar combination of excellent libations and upscale American fare. $$ p f e ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old r ock-quarry location in s cenic Floyds Knobs to offer an atmospheric eatery, with a creative menu that f eatures a light L ouisiana accent, and an interesting, affordable wine list. It’s well worth the 15-minute trip across the Ohio f or one of the metro area’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f UPTOWN CAFÉ 162 4 Bardstown Rd., 458-42 12 .

Across the s treet and a s tep downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except for the bar) off ers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Restaurateur Laura Tao’s stylish downtown restaurant promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine .” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about e veryone something t o enjoy, regardless of which c ompass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p

316 ORMSBY 316 Ormsby Ave., 637-9899. More than just another neighborhood café, this s tylish spot in an attractive Old Louisville building offers a nice blend of c omfort and sophis tication. Co-owners Tony Efstratiadis and Kevin Thompson, who boast kitchen experience at Napa Riv er Grill, sho w off their skills with a nic ely balanced formula that’s plain enough for a quick lunch, and fancy enough for a weekend date destination. $$ p f e ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr .

(Embassy Suites), 42 6-9191. An eclectic bis tro atmosphere in the spacious heart of the hot el.

Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pas ta dishes t o a R euben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 12 01 Payne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot like a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmosphere (a r ailroad theme and airy patio in season) tak e it a not ch upscale. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f 58 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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BOURBONS BISTRO 2 2 55 Frankfort Ave., 8948838. Bourbon, K entucky’s traditional nectar, owns a place of honor in L ouisville eateries and watering holes that sho wcase its pleasur es.

Bourbons Bistro combines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what must be the w orld’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. Chef Chris Howerton’s bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f CAFÉ LOU LOU 1800 Frankfort Ave., 893-7776.

Bright and bold and arts y, this Clift on neighborhood restaurant and pub off ers Chef Clay Wallace’s affordable edibles from wraps and calzones to handmade pizzas among the bes t in town. $$ f DEKE’S MARKETPLACE GRILL 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. It starts as a do wntown bar, a favorite hangout for lawyers and the C ourthouse crowd, but Deke’s goes be yond the ob vious to offer steaks, burgers, pasta dishes and more. The decoera architecture adds t o the soul of each appetizer and entrée. $$$ p f DIAMANTE 2 2 80 Bardstown Rd., 456-1705. Chef Mike Driskell, formerly of Club Gr otto, has upgraded the old Diamond Station bar and moved it significantly upscale with this ne w concept, which features an eclectic bill of f are and tr endy libations in an attractive modern setting. $$ f DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-912 9 . With fresh and gener ous portions, I lea ve stuffed and happy every time I visit this s tylish yet casual Highlands favorite. Chef/Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining scene— serves up fr esh and gener ous portions fr om a menu that offers an internationally eclectic bill of fare that r anges all o ver the map . From Kansas City ribs and New England crab cakes to Thai chicken wings or Chinese burritos. $$ p HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Street Live, 568-2 2 02 .

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine to rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way.

The music sc ene is the dr aw, but y ou’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e HARPER’S RESTAURANT 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 42 5-2 900. Harper’s draws a happ y crowd of regulars with a lar ge bar and big menu that off ers a wide r ange of American-s tyle fare, with management that takes quality seriously. Gourmet pizzas and fine libations are a specialty. $$ p f JACK’S LOUNGE 12 2 Sears A ve., 897-902 6. A sophisticated, elegant bar as sociated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu f eaturing appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p JAZZ FACTORY 815 W. Market St. (Glassworks), 992 -32 42 . Louisville’s restored Glassworks building makes a natur al home f or this edgy , stylish venue for serious, live jazz. Chef Jeff Jarfi’s eclectic and innovative fare offers an extra incentive for a jazz-filled evening. $$ p e L&N WINE BAR AND BIS TRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser , with over 100 wines a vailable by the glas s.

Comfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f LA PECHE II Holiday Manor Shopping C enter, 3397593. If y ou want to enjoy much-honored Chef Kathy Cary’s imaginative cooking without paying the prices at Lilly’s, this sibling spot is the place to go. $$ f www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 59

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LEANDER’S ON OAK 103 W. Oak St., 569-6981. Once an Old L ouisville neighborhood mark et, this attractively renovated storefront is oper ated by restaurateurs Nick Layman and Amy Tuinstra, who bring experience in Chicago and Texas to bear in Old Louisville. The eatery offers Chef Charlie Owen’s eclectic American casual bill of f are with international accents. $$ p f

Diamante b a r & g r i l l e

Distinictive Dining... a Distinctive Neighborhood

OSCAR BROWN’S SOUTHBEACH STATION 2 52 E. Market St., 581-12 2 2 . Chef Nick Sundberg features an American bis tro style at his casual-upscale restaurant in the increasingly active east downtown neighborhood. His menu sho wcases Caribbean influences from Cuba, Jamaica and Trinidad . $$ p e

Enjoy a Casual Dining Experience with Chef Mike Driskell and his staff in a unique atmosphere that has been a part of the Highlands for over 75 Years!

RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE W ORLD 12 93 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funky and fun, this f avorite spot of the Highlands’ Generation X crowd attracts foodies of all ages with its friendly setting, reasonable prices and w ell-prepared international cuisine. $$ f RED LOUNGE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 896-6116. It’s loud.

It’s smoky. It’s slick and glitzy and fun. Red Lounge is a bar first and an eatery second, but the fare, a short list of gourmet pub grub, is very good. $ p f e

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-6544.

This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is aff ordable and appealing. $

Open Tues. thru Sat. 11:00 am - 2:00 am Sunday 5:00 pm - 2:00 am Serving Lunch...Dinner & Late Night

APPLEBY’S CAFÉ AND CA TERING 2 01 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3663. This café and catering business offers a v ariety of daily lunch specials plus gourmet c offees and a t empting array of desserts. $ f

2280 Bardstown Road 502.456.1705

One of Louisville’s favorite neighborhoods is home to one of Louisville’s favorite restaurants.

AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2 648. Grab a bit e before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, c old beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ BEG FOR MORE CAFÉ 380-0085. $

8402 National T urnpike,

BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2 868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50 ,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Europe. Its comfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUE PEPPERMILL CAFÉ 1882 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN., 945-5830. Any city would be lucky to have this superb little bis tro with a Hoosier twist. The fare ranges from down-home to upscale. The atmosphere is happy and bright; the service personal and quick. It’s a bit hidden away, but worth the search. $$ p BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 32 55 Bardstown Rd. ( Quality Inn), 454-0451. This casual family dining spot in a motel complex on Bar dstown offers traditional favorites that range from the Hot Br own to fried chicken. A menu of fr eshly made soups, salads, appetizers and desserts serves the light diner. $ p BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600 . $fe

When you’re looking for variety that will please any kind of appetite and helpings that are always generous and unmistakably fresh, you’ll find it at Ditto’s Grill! The menu is packed with culinary creations from one of the region’s top chefs, and the atmosphere with its cozy booths and uniquely whimsical artwork says, “Relax”! We’re in Louisville’s charming and historic Highlands.

60 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

1114 Bardstown Road (502) 581-9129 Favorites include . . .

• Thai Chicken Wings with Tobacco Onions • Kansas City Ribs • New England Crab Cakes • Chinese Burritos • Blackened Beef Chop with Smashed Potatoes • Ditto’s Crème Brulee • Mud Pie Cheesecake

THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 132 7 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500. Tiny but tastefully attractive, this little café is hidden at the back of a V ictorian house filled with gift shops that share a quaint, welcoming ambience. $ f THE CAFÉ A T THE L OUISVILLE ANTIQUE MALL 900 Goss Ave., 637-6869. One of the city’ s most attractive spots for antique and junque-shopping, this cavernous old f actory building on Gos s Avenue offers a similarly attractive place to catch lunch while y ou shop, offering a selection of competently made luncheon fare. $

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CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 7 19-9717. (see listing under Upscale Casual) CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-892 9.

Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, f eaturing homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dutchmans Ln. ( Jewish Community Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center carefully follows traditional requirements to ensure fully k osher fare, Homemade soups, salads and wide-r anging hot entrées are available. $ f CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12 12 1 Shelbyville Rd., 2 452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch often do so her e, lured by an attr active selection of luncheon fare that ranges from soups and salads t o tasty sandwiches ... and, it goes without saying, desserts. $ f CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. Fourth St., 635-02 2 2 , 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 12 50 Bardstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 85 2 -5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f CUTTING BOARD CAFÉ 2905 Goose Creek Rd., 4239950. There’s a lot of pot ential in this Eas t End storefront. The bill of f are is mos tly sandwiches, panini and wr aps, but the y’re creative and generally well-made. $ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell y ou a firs t-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f DERBY CITY CAFÉ BY DALAL 3819 Bardstown Rd., 454-6160. Most of the dining crowd comes for the cream cheese and oliv e sandwiches, v eggie pockets and K entucky’s own Benedictine creations. $ DIEFENBACH CAFÉ 12 8 S. New Albany St., Sellersburg IN, 246-0686. $$ p e DIXIE CUP CAFÉ 4637 Dixie Hwy., 448-6999. A welcoming spot on Dixie near the W atterson Expressway. Although it ’s billed as a “ gourmet coffee shop,” warming chili, soups and salads and alluring desserts make it a full-scale lunch destination. $ ERMIN’S FRENCH BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 635-6960, 72 3 S. F ourth St., 58 7-9390, 454 S. Fourth Ave., 585-512 0, 9550 U .S. Hwy 42 , 2 2 872 10, 2 11 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN, 94 1-8674.

Founded by an immigrant baker from Bosnia who has since moved on, these popular bakeries still attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlight ed by French-style breads and pastries. $ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., Ne w Albany IN, 9486646. $ f GARDEN ROOM CAFÉ 911 S. Br ook St., 62 5- 1900.

Louisville’s historic Male High School has c ome back to life as T he Spectrum Building, an offic e complex, and its onetime caf eteria now houses Gumby’s Garden Room Café, an attractive, casual American-style restaurant operated by longtime local caterer Phyllis “Gumby” Cornwell. $ f GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Goss Ave., 637-9412 .

One of the man y old-fashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in L ouisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e

GOURMET GRAZING 9550 US 42 , 2 2 8-04 64. This Prospect Point eat ery offers a v ariety of pas tas, crab cakes, salmon, sandwiches and des serts for carry out from its well-stocked catering cases. $ f GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middletown, KY, 2 45-1569. Off the beat en path, the Middletown Historic District is booming with bucolic storefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the pas t. The Grapevine Pantry serves up homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, and a selection of cakes and pies. $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Camberly Brown Hotel), 583-12 34. The Brown’s casual café offers an alternative to the pricey and upscale English Grill. $ p LA PETIT PATISSERIE 1036 E. Burnette Ave., 6343004. A But chertown landmark has changed hands as the old f amily-run Heitzmann’s Bakery assumes an upscale look and a f ancy French name under ne w management. T here’s a short sandwich menu and a r emarkable collection of soft drinks, but the P atisserie aptly shines in the pastry department with its memorable desserts. $

CLUB GROTTO AMERICAN BISTRO

Your Solution for Exquisite and Elegant Entertaining

LAZY JANE CAFÉ 2 339 Frankfort Ave., 896-2 2 30.

It must have taken a long time t o shovel out the colorful remnants of the v ery strange Me Oh My Jumbalaya that previously occupied this Crescent Hill spot, but the effort was worthwhile. Clean and bright, simple butt ery colors, attractive art and white café curtains lend class to a tiny spot where you can enjoy a quality br eakfast and well-made soups, sandwiches and desserts. $ f MAIN ST. GRIND 155 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-2326. $ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is c ompetent and polit e, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-s tyle fare ranges from good to excellent. $ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigrant family from Eastern Europe, but the f ood is all- American at Mr . Z’s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $ NORTH END CAFÉ 172 2 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

This atmospheric Clift on spot in an artfully redesigned old shotgun house has bec ome one of the city’s most popular s pots, prompting a r ecent expansion and the addition of a full bar. The eclectic menu offers diverse tapas and int eresting entrées, plus a bar gain-seeker’s wine li st. It’s an appeali ng, affordable place to dine. $ f SWEET ‘N’ S AVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bardstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch f are with a v egetarian accent makes Sweet ‘n’ Sa vory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ THIRD AND MAIN CAFÉ 220 W. Main St., 587-6171. $ f THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233.

One of m y favorite places for a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eat ery is attracting loyal crowds with excellent fare and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e THYME CAFÉ 711 S. Third St., 587-0400. This spicy eclectic café serves up big taste with special tuna, ham and chicken entrées and sandwiches. Fr esh basil tomato soup with the BL T on grilled sourdough is a f ast-rising favorite in the neighborhood. $ WHITNEY’S DINER 5616 Bardstown Rd., 239-0919. $ f

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 412 4666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback St eakhouse chain off ers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p

Spectacular Cuisine from Award Winning Executive Chef

Michael New Dinner Served

Monday thru Thursday 5:00 - 10:00 pm Friday and Saturday 5:00 - 11:00 pm Sunday 5:00 - 9:00 pm Private Dining Room Available Accommodating Parties Up To 60 Guests

Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence” Since 1999 Reservations (502) 459-5275 2116 Bardstown Road www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 61

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CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 392 2 Westport Rd., 894-8947. In an East End neighborhood rich with seafood eateries, Carolina offers a tas ty option within w alking distance of do wntown St. Matthews. This spartan little joint f eatures shellfish and cod, much of it healthfully s teamed, not fried, in an affordable family setting. $ CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 2 83-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper tr ays—but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2 993.

Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISH HUT 550 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 585-3474.

If this trailer’s not fryin’, you’ll go away cryin’. Known for their fried catfish, the only thing mis sing from this little fry shanty is a pond out back. $ f THE FISHERY 362 4 Lexington Rd., 895- 1188. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that ’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and aff ordable fish and seafood meals. $ f THE FISHERY STATION 5627 Outer Loop, 968-8363.

Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as frog legs, shrimp and alligat or. For the landlubbers there are cheeseburgers and fries. $ p

www.maxandermas.com

JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The fake crab shack setting is bright, noisy and fun, and the servers keep everyone entertained. But the f ood is the bottom line, and I’m pleased t o report that we’ve found the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2 902 Bardstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop, vacant since the closing of the short-lived Highland Fish Market, is frying fish again, with dec or and s tyle so little changed that they’re still using the same sign out front. Fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare are first-rate and fairly priced. $ KINGFISH RESTAURANT 302 1 Upper Riv er Rd., 895-0544, 3401 Bar dstown Rd., 459- 1432 , 7483 Dixie Hwy., 933-3474, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 2400700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2843474. Fried fish in a f amily dining setting has made this local chain a popular f avorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper River Road and Riverside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f

Burgers, Pastas, Salads, Steaks and More!

For any reason that you can think of to get family and friends together, Max & Erma’s is the one-size-fits-all, come as you are, good food, good times place that everyone can agree on!

Hurstbourne 2901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy

The Summit Brownsboro Road at Gene Snyder 62 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

MAZZONI’S OYSTER CAFÉ 2 804 Taylorsville Rd., 451-4436. A history that dates to 1884 makes Mazzoni’s one of the city’s longest-running restaurant acts. It mo ved from downtown to the suburbs a gener ation ago, but k ept its his toric serving bar and its urban f eeling, with pub grub , cold beer and the famous rolled oyster. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 9 37-1235. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tas ty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 192 5 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -1818. The decor of this upscale , Columbusbased chain e vokes the f eeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kit chen that offers views of chefs at w ork. Quality seaf ood and servic e has made this a popular des tination, and e verything we’ve tried her e has been fr esh and w ellprepared. $$$ p f

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PEARLY’S SEAFOOD 6301 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8362 5. The cozy old creekside quarters that long housed Bus Parson’s has received a make-over that gives the place an inviting Key West look. The menu has been kicked up a notch, too, with such goodies as conch fritters and bouillabaisse added to the familiar fried seafood and fish. $$ p f PROSPECT FISH MARKET 952 1A US 42 , Pr ospect, 2 2 8-6962 . A gr eat place to get an o yster, a seafood dinner or a fine fried-fish sandwich. And if you’re on the eas tern edge of the metr opolitan area, Prospect Fish Market offers good, affordable fish in a pleasant shopping-center setting. $ RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original L ouisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’ s, where the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perfectly prepared. I’ve never had a better fish sandwich an ywhere. Watch for daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 2 88-2 411. This independent-minded s teakhouse is one of the metr o area’s best values for expertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual siz es and configurations, but someone in the kitchen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling.

The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 897-7077. Once ranked among the city’ s top steakhouses, Del Frisco’s remains strong in its core competency.

For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p DILLON’S STEAKHOUSE 2101 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy, 499-7106. Dillon’s has a dis tinctly different atmosphere from more pricey steakhouses, with its ski-lodge atmospher e in a his toric Louisville home. It ranks among the most affordable quality steak dinners that the city has t o offer. $$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin your way. Some of the city’s best ivory masters are at the piano to enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e FRANK’S STEAK HOUSE 52 0 W. Seventh St., Jeffersonville IN, 2 83-3383. A longtime north-ofthe-river favorite, this neighborhood s teak house is known for comfort and hearty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 52 2 9 Dixie Hw y., 448-0577, 970 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9789. With more than 100 properties in 17 s tates, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and s teaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONE STAR STEAKHOUSE & S ALOON 340 Whittington Pkwy., 339-9495. Lone Star rises above the median f or franchised chain es tablishments on the basis of popularity and style and very friendly service, with dec ent grub amid T exas-style surroundings and country music. $$ p f LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2 535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350. Order your sirloin on the flat-top or pork chops on the char; also prime rib, baby back ribs and a c omplete line of chick en entrées. All dinners come with salad and potato choice. $$ p

MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. T he steaks are as good as it gets, the atmosphere is elegant without being s tuffy, and the servic e is outstanding. Morton’s earns a solid thr ee stars and ranks among the top tier of L ouisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895432 9, 652 0 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 94 98 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-432 9, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 2 31-2 399, 142 0 P ark Place, Clarksville, IN, 2 834329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pr etty much f amiliar American, and the fare goes be yond just steak to take in chick en, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2 437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ‘50s, but when I at e there last, I think I saw Ozzie and Harriet. A local favorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117, 816 S. K Y 53, La Gr ange, KY, 2 2 2 -12 2 6.

Family-style dining with the r anch theme k ept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and c old foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the bes t restaurant. It serv es an e xcellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-1748, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4711 Dixie Hwy., 447-4781, 636 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8520. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good v ariety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $

SANDWICHES HOMEMADE DESSER TS STEAKS FRESH SEAFOOD PASTAS SALADS 12 BEERS ON TAP DAILY SPECIALS

Deke says, “Join us downtown for great food and libations!”

Free Lunch Delivery Downtown Call for Delivery Area

Corner of Third & Market 301 West Market Street • 584-8337 Dine In, Carry Out or Delivery - Outdoor Dining 11AM - 10PM Monday thru Thursday 11AM - 11PM Friday and Saturday Happy Hour 4 PM - 7PM Monday thru Friday

STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 42 9-8944. St oney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memor able steaks and trimmings, with e xtra points f or friendly servic e and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 2 80-1103, 4406 Dixie Hw y. 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 332 2 Out er Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the W est sets the theme for this popular s teak house. Salads, v egetables and breads with hearty side dishes r ound out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p

Celebrating 55 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (19 locations) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex) Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “Ne w Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping Center specializes in breakfast and lunch. The fare is down-home and simple, at a price you can afford. $

FOUR CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road

■

895-0544

(Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

ANYTIMES AT THE RAMADA INN 1041 Zorn Ave., 897-5101. Serving dinners only, the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p .m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and des serts. A s teak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house . $$ p

(On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

APPLEBEE’S (9 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic as sortment of salads,

1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 Around Town:

3401 Bardstown Road ■ 459-1432 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 63

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steaks, ribs, poultry and pas ta as well as full bar service. It’s as c onsistent as a c ookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BENTLEY’S 12 0 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 582 2 241. Enjoy a Kentucky hot brown or the all- youcan-eat prime rib buffet on Saturday nights. Each day features a pasta dish, a hearty soup and salad bar, as well as favorites from the cutting board and grill. $$ p e BIG HOPP’S 800 W. Market St., 589-6600. A wide variety of family-style fare, from fettuccine alfredo to fried chicken, is dished up with friendly, welcoming service at this popular local spot, in the busy Glassworks district. $ p f BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3008 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 2 84-2 919 . Despite a mountain lodge theme that might mak e you think of the Colorado Rockies, this growing chain is based in Louisville. Upscale bar f ood and a sizable bar t o match make these popular destinations. $$ p f BULL FROG GARDEN 5440 Del Maria W ay 4990393. Another of L ouisville’s hidden secrets, this family eatery in the F ern Creek area is popular with its neighbors and is earning a br oader reputation for pub grub at r easonable prices, prepared with care and served in a friendly setting. $$ p e CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 2 2 8-1651. One of the city’ s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bis trostyle fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Cardinal memorabilia. What? Y ou want food too? Sure!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 2 83-44 11. Known by locals f or its Saturday night buff et of Ne w York strip, ribeye and prime rib . Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e

GREAT VIEW OF THE OHIO RIVER (Located six blocks from the Kennedy Bridge)

Casual Dining at its Best Daily Lunch, Dinner and Drink Specials

1 Domestic Longnecks

$

Sunday, Monday & Thursday

Karaoke with R/T Express Tuesday, Friday & Saturday 100 W. Riverside Drive • Jeffersonville, IN • 282-2500 64 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 V eteran’s Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2 80-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” f are, now adds a second property in Southern Indiana. $ p CHICK INN 6325 Upper River Rd., 228-3646. Now in completely new quarters rebuilt after a fire gutted the old building in Dec ember 2 002 , Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn is back, and w e’re delighted to report that the new place feels much like the old.

Best of all, the e xcellent fried chick en is s till among the best in town. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p COY’S 4041 Preston Hwy., 363-2 2 66. A change in management prompts a ne w name and spring cleaning for the old, f amiliar Longino’s Grill, but we’re counting on similar friendly service and oldfashioned comfort fare to maintain the popularity of this casual South End des tination. $$ p f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. F ourth St., 58 7-052 6. The historic brick building at Fifth and Br eckenridge Streets that housed the original Cunninghams f or 131 years w as destroyed by fire in 2 001. But its new downtown home captures much of the

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nostalgia of the old, and s tanding-room-only crowds are just as pleased with its fish sandwiches and pub grub. $ f EVA MAE’S 6313 Upper River Rd. $ f DEKE’S MARKETPLACE GRILL 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. (see listing under Bistro/Contemporary) FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5 2 00. This comfortable space features both buffet and menu dining. One pric e covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu often includes r egional and c ontemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p GAVI’S RESTAURANT 2 2 2 S. Seventh St., 583-8183.

This family-owned eatery has been around for more than 2 0 years. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht and potat o soups and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ HEATHER’S ON THE RIVER 1900 Victory Ln., 2284359. The banks of the Ohio in Oldham County make a pretty setting for this barge-based eatery that’s been through several theme changes. Once The Famous Dog, it later became a private club where suburbanites could enjoy a drink in otherwise “dry” surroundings. It’s now open to the public as a fine-dining, American-s tyle restaurant … and tiki bar. $$ p HOOTERS 412 0 Dutchmans Ln., 895- 7100; 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194; 7701 Preston Hwy., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 189485; 941 East Hwy. 131, Clarks ville, IN 2 84-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-standing reputation as a party sc ene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e JIMMY’S ON THE RIVER 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 -2 500 . The menu at this friendly bar and eat ery features affordable bar food and munchies, but the f astidious may choose from the menu’ s “Lighter Side.” Hearty meals at budget pric es and a s triking riverside view from two great decks mak es for the quintessential moonlit night on the Ohio . $ p f e

MAIN MENU 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN., 9486501. $$ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. T hird St., 6 36-2 511. A fine , family Louisville tradition, this familiar Tudor structure near the U of L campus is the s tate’s largest full-service restaurant and the city’s largest caterer. Serving lunch buff et Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2 901 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 4939662 , 392 1 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -52 2 9. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 properties with a s teady formula of friendly service and casual-dining fare that ranges from specialty burgers, soups and salads to more weighty entrées. $$ p f THE MONKEY WRENCH 102 5 Barret Ave., 582 2433. Delayed for months by red tape and NIMBY opposition, The Monkey Wrench has finally arrived in Pita Delight ’s old quart ers, and it is worth the wait. Good music, good ambienc e and exceptionally welcoming service are all plus ses, but Chef Scott Brummett’s stylish spin on comfort food is the bottom-line draw. $ p f O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary ne xt to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 2 06 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the mott o “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. F ourth St. (Seelbach Hilt on Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alt ernative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $

RAFFERTY’S OF L OUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties lik e Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p RANCH HOUSE Highlander Point Shopping C enter, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435, 2611 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-9199 . The menu and the retro 1950s dec or hark back t o the original Bob Colgazier’s restaurants that Bab y Boomers remember fondly from days gone by. $ e RIVER GRILLE 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 5895200. Gaze upon the lazy Ohio while enjo ying an early bacon and eggs or enjoy a late night burger and fries. Casual and ac commodating for guests on the go, the fast and friendly service awaits you on the second floor. $$$ p RUBY TUESDAY 5001 Shelbyville Rd., 897-02 00, 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 2 67-7100. If suc cess demonstrates quality, then Rub y Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30 ,000 employees can stand up with pride . They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p THE RUDYARD KIPLING 42 2 W. Oak St., 6 36-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old L ouisville eatery in just about e very dimension, fr om its funk y decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of ent ertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e SAM’S FOOD & SPIRIT S 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 724 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-7979. Opened b y a man named Sam some 16 years ago, the two locations feed an army of happy diners. You’ll find seafood, steaks, pastas, salads, appetiz ers and des serts.

The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p

JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 42 6-2 074. Going s trong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house t o a spr awling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with liv e music man y evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e KAELIN’S RESTAURANT 1801 Newburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 70 years, and their cheek y claim t o have invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in f act. It’s faring well with no r eal changes under new ownership. $ f KERN’S KORNER 2 600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9 72 6.

This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit s top since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as w ell as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS AT CAESARS Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. The hot and c old short orders are served up with riv erboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts fr om Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the most popular places in town for brunch (and dinner too), Lynn’s Paradise Café lures happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor.

Lynn’s sponsors the Stat e Fair’s tongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp Contest, but there’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling food. $$ p www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 65

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SHANE’S 1004 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9769. $ SHONEY’S 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-6870, 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr., 9698904. For nearly 50 y ears, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’ s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 12 66 Bardstown Rd., 473-12 34, Plainview Village Center, 42 9-5773, 392 Dutchman’s Ln., 895-7578, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937402 0, 42 6 W . Market St., 56 1-9999. Louisville’s outposts of a f amous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eat eries offer the r egional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauc e, but k eep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ STEAK N SHAKE 32 32 Bardstown Rd., 456-2 6 70, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2 717 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 1072 1 Fischer Park Dr., 32 6-362 5, 980 E. Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85-1154. One of the oldest fastfood chains in the U .S., Steak N Shak e traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality s teak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, 2311 Lime Kiln Ln., 32 7-8443, Fourth Street Live, 5853577. The original plac e to loosen the tie and congregate after the whis tle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmospher e tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f THE OTHER PLACE 1600 Bardstown Rd., 458-2888. $fe THE PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Street Live 569-7782.

Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2 389. Value and variety are the strong points of this c ommunity tradition and the f are goes fr om burgers to lobster tails.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 32 0 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café fare in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. The extensive menu ranges from drinks t o desserts, a club sandwich to a filet mignon. T he Trellis also offers a popular and expansive Sunday brunch. $$ p TUCKER’S 2 441 State St., Ne w Albany, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of e verything with a do wn-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers, pastas and Mexican fare. $ p

ANCHOR INN 1500 Evergreen Rd., 2 45-712 1.

Enjoying new life under the same management, the former Abruzzi has s witched from ItalianAmerican fare to American home-s tyle cuisine.

But the best part—its upscale casual s tyle in the park-like setting of suburban Anchor age—is just as good as ever. $$ p f BARBARA LEE’S KIT CHEN 2 410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a lat e-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food.

Honest grub, honestly priced, in a r ootsy atmosphere. $ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of L ouisville history coming off the old w alls of this quint essential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar f ood gets, and that’s not bad. T he chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 2 46-9485. The parking lot of this whit e frame building in rur al Indiana is pack ed on w eekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middlet own, 2 449497. This nostalgic old house in the c ountryside offers a tas te of K entucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-432 5. Now, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade trees on Eastern Parkway not far from the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ COUNTRY KITCHEN 1506 Berry Blv d., 367-5995.

Cafeteria style or dining room menu service: it’s up to you. This south end es tablishment serves up a variety of home-style food from sweet iced tea and biscuits to the c ountry-fried steak and a fluff y mountain of real mashed potatoes and gravy. $ p f DE-VILLE’S 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 961-9102. De-Ville’s has made a science out of soul food, with collard greens, buttermilk cornbread, pork chop sandwiches and fried ribs. $ f DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckreigel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ f

TWIAMS CHICKEN & WAFFLES 2 517 Dixie Hw y., 775-02 16. Former U of L bask etball star Tony Williams now presides over Twiams, an attractive West End eat ery that impr esses the vis itor with cordial service and quality f are. The name of the place pretty much describes the menu, which also features other soul-food favorites. $

D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 583-8015. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty br eakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potat oes, D’Nalley’s is a har d place to beat. $

TWIG & LEAF RES TAURANT 2 12 2 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the ”Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast—whether you’re enjoying it while v enturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading hom e very late on a Saturday night. It ’s a plac e to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $

FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $

THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2 648. The Villa Buffet offers an impressive choice of international dishes, with some 150 selections. A seafood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$ 66 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

GENNY’S DINER 2 2 2 3 Frankfort Ave., 893-092 3.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better still, you can get a darn good meal at Genn y’s, provided that you set your expectations for hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., 2 58-2 540. Buffet style family dining—one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $

GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner off ers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “ diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether y ou like your eggs o ver easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOLLY’S LEGAL S TREET CAFETERIA 715 W. Jefferson St., 584-4080 A longtime favorite of the Courthouse crowd, Holly’s steam table and grill consistently please, as does its full bar. $ p HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 2 67-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 326-9 777, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-332 0, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85-1893.

This national chain serv es up nos talgic dishes, casseroles, meats and des serts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-youcan eat price tag. $ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 382 0 W. Market St., 778-5154, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 964-5749, 3353 F ern Valley Rd., 96 9-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2 535. Grown from a tiny West End tak eout spot t o a mini-chain, Indi’ s vends a v ariety of aff ordable soul f ood and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hw y., 937-6332 . Country cooking is Jes sie’s specialty, with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS FAST FOOD 2 101 W. Broadway, 772 -7138.

This tiny, colorful West End eat ery, open f or takeout only, offers a v ast selection of filling, affordable urban f are that r anges from hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LINDY’S 5110 Preston Hwy., 964-6428. Open 7 days a week, this es tablishment is a local f avorite for family dining. Variety is the key to Lindy’s reputation with buffet or full service menus available. Enjoy daily specials and do wn home selections from franks and kraut to steak dinners. $ MR. LOU’S COUNTRY COTTAGE RESTAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9 33-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s country cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg, IN, 2 46-5456.

Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken.

Neil’s also makes excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner, not t o mention full bar servic e that makes O’Dollys a South west Louisville destination. $ p f OLIVE’S ON FOURTH 570 S. Fourth St., 588-9003.

No matter what y ou’re hungry f or, chances are Olive’s has it—fr om steam-table fare to pizza and calzones. Co-owners Linda Z eisloft and V icky Wright bring long back grounds at Sulliv an University to this comfortable downtown spot $ f ROADWAY WINGS 708 Cecil Ave., 774-5543. $ f TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 Northwestern Pkwy,, 7765505. A rich and colorful history surrounds the century-old frame building in Portland that no w houses the T oll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3133 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry C okes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjo yed all y ear round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $

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WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. Webb’s is deli sandwich market style dining.

Country ham sandwiches and the half-pound cheeseburger are a specialty. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 2 84-2 667. This bustling eatery is caf eteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ COLONNADE CAFETERIA 455 S. Fifth St., 5846846. Sometimes cafeteria fare hits the spot, and this much-loved local landmark in the basement of the Starks Building has w on a multigenerational crowd of loyal fans. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. Sequestered beneath the National City T ower, this thrifty deli off ers a variety of build- your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, Mexican pizzas, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454- 72 86.

This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table.

Count on an att entive staff and fr esh southern fare. $ JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W. Muhammad Ali Blv d., 583-2 534. Jay’s big, w ell-scrubbed new building wouldn’t be out of plac e on Hurs tbourne Lane.

Cafeteria fare is c onsistently fine, and hungry diners from all over town find a warm welcome at this popular West End location. $ PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of v egetables and a f ew ethnic dishes for global measure. $ SOUTH SIDE INN CAFETERIA 114 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN., 945-9645. This venerable familyowned cafeteria is the v ery essence of caf eteria dining. Roast beef, fried Alask an whitefish, spaghetti and meat sauce, pies chock full of fruit and old-fashioned vegetables come in huge portions for low prices. You’ll be hard pressed to spend five bucks here, and you’ll get a lunch or dinner that will leave you napping. $

BUFFALO CROSSING 1140 Bagdad Rd., Shelb yville, KY, (502) 647-0377. If you’d like to combine a day trip with a culinary adventure, consider a drive to Buffalo Crossing in Shelb y County. This agricultural amusement park f eatures a 500-head buffalo herd and an o versize dining r oom where you can give this healthy red meat a try. The food here is c ountry-style and so ar e the friendly servers. $$ f DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes ... but the e xpansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that features a “ dueling” piano bar with tw o pianos and a sing-along c oncept? You’ll find it at Fourth Street Live, where this 4,000-square-foot club is now open on the ground level. $ p e www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 67

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JILLIAN’S 630 Barret Ave., 589-9090. Louisville’s outpost of the Bos ton-based billiard-themed restaurant concept, this big and noisy bar, food and billiards scene is housed under the t owering concrete columns of a former grain elevator just east of downtown. Always filled with a happ y crowd, it’s the place to go for casual food and fun. $ p f e JOE HUBER F AMILY FARM & RES TAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 2 0-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid r eputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is gr own on the pr emises in season. $$ p f e MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a f our-course meal during a tw o-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-er a dining cars.

Reservations are strongly recommended. All aboard! $$$$ p STAR OF LOUISVILLE 151 W. Riverside Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 589-7827. The Ohio River cruise is the best thing about this Love Boat-style yacht that makes nightly all-you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f e STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 1092 4 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a f ew steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. C ombine that with hones t fried chicken, big ham s teaks, roast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f TWICE TOLD PERFORMANCE CAFÉ 3507 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, 222-4506. An eclectic urban café in a village setting, about 2 0 minut es east of downtown in LaGr ange. The casual menu lis ts sandwiches, fruits and veggies; daily soups and entrées. Live music every night—folk, spoken word, blues, jazz. $ e

ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the s teak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’ s also off ers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and c old beer. $ ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eat ery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a v ariety of s tacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ BEARNO’S PIZZA 131 W. Main St., 584- 7720, 2900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6101 Bardstown Rd., 2 31-2 2 2 2 , 135-F Marketplace Dr., 957-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 7-2 549, 1318 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4556, 8019 Pr eston Hwy., 968-6060, 4105 Dixie Hwy., 449-4141, 9222 Westport Rd.,423-1224, 7895 Dixie Hwy., 937-1234, 1923 S. Fourth St., 6345155, 3002 Charlestown Crossing, 949-7914.

Bearno’s is known for its Italian entrées, generous salads, and Chicago-s tyle pizza. If y ou prefer something more substantial, Bearno’s also offers spaghetti, marinara and meatballs. $ p CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 5-512 5. Calif ornia pizza became a tr end when f amous chefs ga ve this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-

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traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 944-4942 , 3093 Breckinridge Ln., 45 2 -6700, 52 2 6 Dixie Hwy., 448-8895. Serious bargainhunters will find Cici’s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain’s New Albany pizzeria, the first of 10 planned metr o locations, serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2 2 30 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals t o me with its adult s tyle, full of the bold fla vors of herbs and spic es and available with gr own-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of my favorite local pizzerias. $ f e DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ FAST BREAK PIZZA 6825 Central Ave., 243-1101. $ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGrange Rd., 339-8111, 2 712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555; 2 2 08 Bar dstown Rd., 479-1040. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads.

The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd; the Crescent Hill eatery reflects its urban setting. $ FIGARO’S PIZZERIA 162 01 Eastwood Cut-Off Rd., 2 54-72 2 0. So f ar out in the Eas t End that it ’s almost at the county line, this quaint little country storefront houses something just a bit more urban: an e xcellent pizzeria featuring both thincrust and delicious thick Chicago-style pies. $ FRATELLO’S PIZZA 735 Ewing Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 84-12 34. Family owned and oper ated, Fratello’s offers fresh, homemade pies. T angy, spicy sauce and a che wy crust with a dis tinctly garlicky flavor define Fratello’s pizza; add points for warm and friendly hospitality $ FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000.

Just around the c orner from the L ouisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizz eria with a c ozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all- you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f HIGHLANDS TAPROOM 12 79 Bardstown Rd., 4592 337. This cozy nook f or Bardstown Road music and microbrew fans features tavern fare and munchies, a full bar and thirt een beers on tap .

Eclectic rock, folk and blues r ound out a popular and late night live music scene. $ p f e HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555, 8442 Dixie Hw y., 935-3555, La Gr ange Square Shopping Center, 2 2 2 -4444. P asta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and c old beer ar e available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bac on Cheeseburger pizza. $$ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr., 2 67-8600, 562 2 Preston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain los t market share in the ‘90s, but busines s analysts say the c ompany known for its tw o-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also kno wn as Chubb y Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 2 46-9517. A pleasant f amily-run-for-family-fun establishment. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ MANCINO’S PIZZA & GRINDERS 12 488 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-9902 . Oven-baked and stuffed with all your favorites, a “ grinder” is a one-s tep hungerslaying sandwich. The local favorite is the Mancino’s Pride, which is t opped with e very veggie in the

kitchen plus ham, pepperoni and sausage. $ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 2 11, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0540 , 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 4 99-9804, 1108 L yndon Ln., 339-8338, 2 2 47 S. Pr eston St., 6 35 –6708, 42 00 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients—plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids—have made its crisp, thincrust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ NEW YORK CAPRI PIZZA 1503 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 284-1480. $ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZ ZA 2 91 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962-7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2 66-7000, 6 756 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-82 82 , 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ PAPA JOHN’S PIZ ZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple f ormula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ PIE IN THE SK Y 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 2 40-9988.

This pizzeria offers up pies with fr esh ingredients and hand-tossed dough. The selection of beer is wide and so is the TV scr een for those weekend gatherings. Pasta, salads and sandwiches— including the popular Hot Sicilian—r ound out the casual dining menu. $$ PIZZA BOX 10331 Champion F arms Dr., 42 3-0530.

Moved early in 2 005 from its longtime, spartan quarters near the Ford Kentucky Truck Plant, Pizza Box now boasts more modern and stylish quarters in Springhurst. It’s still a popular gathering plac e, and the excellent pizzas are still a draw, even if they’ve cut back on the once imposing beer list. $ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-tossed dough. Come and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a c ozy table f or three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 382 5 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2 82 8286. The pizza at Pizza King i s baked in a s turdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA MAGIA (13 Locations) This newcomer Louisville-based chain is making waves in the lowcost/high quality pizza biz. In addition to a variety of pizzas, it off ers Stromboli, Sweetie Pie (an Italian dessert pastry crisscrossed with icing) wings and both cheese and tr aditional breadsticks. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ QUEENIE’S PIZZA & SUCH 2622 S. Fourth St., 6363708. Queenie’s stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas off er whichever option a pizza lover desires. An activ e participant in its neighborhood, Queenie’s often donates a percentage of its pr oceeds to church and civic programs. $ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665.

This tiny storefront in the city’ s nightclub zone offers a tas ty option f or the wide-e yed-late-atnight crowd seeking good cheap eats; it ’s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om Wednesdays through Saturdays. Better yet, it gives Louisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f SPORTSTIME PIZZA 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2 577. Touting “the best pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but when the pizza biz is part of the Ne w Albanian Brewing Company, the

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boast carries w eight. The N.A.B.C. is the ne west offshoot of Rich O’s, nationally noted for its huge selection of microbrews and hard-to-find imports.

Try the “Herbavore” with spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic for a sizzling start. $ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889 . Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-s tyle specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 Vieux Carre Dr., 42 90606. Pizza lo vers are still grieving the los s of Impellizerri’s Pizza, a longtime Highlands landmark (whose pr oprietor, Benny Impellizeri, plans a ne w shop in L yndon soon). But near Hurstbourne, Benny’s brother Tony has purveyed a similarly fine product for a decade. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizz eri pizza s tyle, then Tony’s is a treat not to be missed. $$ UNO CHICAGO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-0079. This successful franchise serves up Chicago style pizza—deep dish with more toppings than crust. Steaks, pastas, sandwiches and burgers complement the full service menu. $$ p VITO’S PIZZERIA 32 13 Preston Hwy., 634-5400.

Reasonable people can diff er on the subject, but Vito’s fans say the sizzling, oven-charred pies at this downscale little place on Preston are among the best pizzas in town. $$ WICKS PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-182 8, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a w elcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer lis t and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eat eries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p

AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOOD S DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485- 112 2 . If you think “vegan” means only raw carrots, bean sprouts, seeds and roots, think again. No animals w ere harmed in the making of the tas ty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop .

And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop . Another Place, now in this w est-downtown location, has been making good ones for years. $ ANTHONY’S 22 Theater Square, 584-0364. $ f BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this c ounter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit c obblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshak es enhance the nostalgic theme. $ f BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $ BIG SUBS 9811B Old Third Street Rd., 933-2010. $ BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 1971 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 495-6565, 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-5480. Sublime subs—fast and fresh.

Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ C.A.P.P.P.’S DELI 4010 Dupont Cir., 895-7064. $ EBA HUT 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507. Spawned CH¯ by a small but growing sub sandwich chain based in the Phoenix area, Ch¯ eba Hut’s slogan observes that “the only thing fried is an oc casional customer.” The marijuana theme is so perv asive that it’s safe to assume this is the least likely place in town for actually scoring weed. $ f www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 69

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CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chick en is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $ DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2 863. Just a f ew tables turn this tak eout nook into a si t-in breakfast and lunch spot f or a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pas tries are the specialty , and they’re fine. $ DINO’S DOWN TO LUNCH CAFÉ 2 39 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an ins titution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 52 1 S. T hird St., 584-8060 . A downtown deli favorite. Daily specials are surrounded by an impr essive variety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 245-3354, 216 N. Hurstbourne Ln., 394-0021, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2 2 41 State St., New Albany, IN, 981-012 4, 2226 Holiday Manor Center, 42 6-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fresh bagels with an arr ay of cr eam cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches—subs, panini, wr aps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ EURO MARKET 12907 Factory Ln., 243-0000. It looks like a neighborhood convenience store and bottle shop, but when you get inside, it contains a delicious surprise: an appetizing servic e counter offers a variety of goodies t o take out or eat in. Don’t mis s the excellent fried-oyster box, as well as an intriguing selection of quality beers and fine wines. $ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896-1899.

The grilled salmon bur ger is w orth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI 62 47 Crestwood Station, 2 43-9005. Small and spartan, this tworoom storefront in the ne wish Crestwood Station shopping center just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-s tyle deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ GELI CAKES 1589 Bardstown Rd., 456-2 466. It’s a delight to have this casual eat ery on Bardstown Road. The specialty is Italian gelat o, and it comes pretty close t o the r eal thing. But don’t start with des sert; the panini (Italian grilled sandwiches) are first-rate, and it’s also open f or weekend brunch. $ f HEAVENLY HAM Northgate Center, New Albany IN, 941-9426. $ HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

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JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND S ALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-1991, 10519 Fischer P ark Dr., 42 5-102 5, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 4 99-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slice of L ouisville life, this w eathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home t o a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chanc e he’s sitting at Juanita’s counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ 70 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

JULIE’S OF JEFFERSONVILLE 32 6 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 18-0 318. Located in his toric downtown Jeffersonville, this eatery is known for its Reuben plate, tomato basil soup or an y of the desserts that Julie creates each day. $ f LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN, 949-7567. Every city needs a postage-stampsized spot that kno ws how to fry potat oes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gr avy, fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems lik e a thr owback to the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2 380. This appetizing oper ation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a pric e that w on’t hurt y our wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $$ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. As the name suggests, Lotsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local favorite since it opened over 20 years ago. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and cheese .

You can’t dine in, but an e xcellent deli c ounter fashions New Orleans-style muffulettas and other sandwiches to go. $ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -1005. This outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589- 3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ f MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-9997, 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality cus tomer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ f NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2 101 Frankfort Ave., 895-832 3. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Off erings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for hard-core “foodies,” with extra credit for friendly, welcoming cafeteria-style service. $ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of f ast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old L ouisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving tr olleys of the L ouisvillebased chain that spr ead across the nation in the ‘70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $

PENN STATION (11 Locations). Billed as the Eas t Coast Sub Headquart ers, this sandwich kit chen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ PO-BOY SHOPPE 2286 Bardstown Rd., 454-0424. If you think “Po-bo y” describes y ourself on the weekend before payday, you might w ant to consider an educational trip t o this casual ne w storefront, where they specialize in this hearty Louisiana-style sandwich treat plus more Cajun and Creole favorites. $ QUIZNO’S SUBS (15 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 42 59 Outer Loop, 969-0506, 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 42 5-844, 12 915 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich—“T he Original”—when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant impr ovement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-532 5, 46 32 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy, 449-2 000, 9493 Westport Rd, 42 5-2 54 9, 2 930 Dr. William Weathers Dr., 774-2 500. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese , chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and v eggie sandwiches according to your custom design, scoop up tuna and chick en salads and barbecue , or grill you a burger. $ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $

8034 New

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

Sharing space with the popular Ditt o’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily kno wn for catering and takeout fare. They cook just as well if you choose to stay in, though, offering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ STRAWBERRY PATCH DELI 11616 Shelbyville Rd., 2 54-1440. This Middletown deli off ers healthy food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $ SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six -meat-and-cheese super sub , keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and des serts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ TWO GUYS AND A GRILL Center, 893-5118. $

4806 Brownsboro

W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot lik e the national Fuddruck ers chain, but the local bo ys do a bett er job, with huge burgers on magis terial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way at Jewish Hospital, 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $

PANERA BREAD C O. 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8999992 , 62 2 1 Dut chmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 42 3- 7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 42 6-2 134. W arm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, c offee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f

WILD OATS NATURAL MARKETPLACE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-7373. This national natural-food grocery includes a sit-do wn café wher e you can order pizzas, sandwiches, or even sushi. $ f

PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-5059, 12 119 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-0072 , 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of L ouisville’s popular sour ces for produce, cheeses, deli it ems, and the lik e.

Deli sandwiches and salads ar e available (takeout only). $

BACKYARD BBQ & GRILL 2 2 3 W. Fifth St., Ne w Albany IN., 945-8310. A wide variety of barbecue, in generous portions, with exceptional side dishes make this lar ge dining hall in Ne w Albany well worth a trip. $ f

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BAKE’S BARBEQUE 542 7 Valley Station Rd., 9 350999. Bake’s ribs ar e smoked to such t ender perfection that the meat slides off the bone . This is four-star barbecue, fully c ompetitive with the region’s best. $$ BIG BEN’S HICK ORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q HOUSE 1331 E. Eighth St., Jeffersonville, IN., 282-9201. $ f BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-2 72 2 , 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657.

Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of w ell prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’ s. It’s one of the few places in L ouisville where you can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f BOURBON BROS. BBQ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 8962486. A big black smoker signals a new tenant in the little white cottage that previously housed the first incarnation of Melillo’s, then Huttster’s Burgers. Bourbon Br os. BBQ v ends well-crafted smoked meats including pork ribs that, on their best days, approach competition quality. An added plus is f or interesting sauces including at least one that’s amply dosed with the eatery’s namesake booze. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666. Service is caf eteria-style in this shoppingcenter establishment featuring Tennessee-style barbecue, where hickory-smoked barbecue sandwiches and filling, aff ordable dinners are the specialty. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 672 8 Johnsontown Rd., 9 335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Bo y’s reasonably priced Western Kentucky-style barbecue is w ell worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eat eries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ CLEON’S RIB SHA CK 701 Algonquin Pk wy., 6350750. It’s a shack, for sure, and Cleon keeps some weird hours, but that’s part of the mystique, and if you can catch him when the smoke is rising, you’re in for some manly spare ribs and soulful sides. $ f FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2 812 , 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICKORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W. Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turk ey legs, ham, half-chick ens, pork chops and shredded beef and pork—all for dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’ s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f

MARK’S FEED S TORE 1142 2 Shelbyville Rd., 2 440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first restaurant’s location in a f ormer feed store with that do wn-home country feel, Mark’s impresses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Carolina barbecue sauce, the yellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a f amous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip from anywhere in town. $ PEPPER SHAKER CHILI & BAR-B-Q 4912 Preston Hwy., 964-3011, 4918 Poplar Level Rd., 962 -7077.

Looking for the real thing in barbecue? Whoop!

Here it is! T his tiny spot near Standif ord Field offers few amenities—it’s primarily for take-out— but a squadron of heavy black-iron smokers burn through cords of hickory to turn out some of the town’s best barbecue at a price that’s right. $ p PETTERSON’S BAR-B-Q BARN 7705 Hwy 311, Sellersburg, IN, 2 48-9063. Another new and welcome entry in Southern Indiana, w e’re reliably informed that this down-home-style barbecue eatery offers comfort food “as good as pock et aces and Texas hold ’em.” $ PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry busines s district. $ f PIGASUS 82 2 State St., Ne w Albany, IN, 94 9-742 7.

Hoping that the fourth time is a charm, this funky barbecue joint r eturns to the small Ne w Albany house where it s tarted. The original pr oprietor, Gary Needham, is no longer in volved, but management reportedly has pr eserved some of his memorable smoked-meat recipes. $ PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 612 S. Fifth St., 584-4054.

Genuine Texas barbecue, dry and t ender meat, red-rimmed and savory from hours in the smoker, is the style served here. March up to the window, place your order, bus your own plate. No muss, no fuss, and it is very good. $ f RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End f amily knows how to do BBQ. It ma y be off the beat en path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-6868. Ribs, pork, chick en a la cart e and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p

FIREHOUSE BAR B Q 6435 Bardstown Rd., 2 397800, 3065 Br eckinridge Ln., 459-5 2 01, 808 Lyndon Ln., 32 7-6304. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and w ell. It’s no c oincidence, then, that Firehouse Bar B Q pa ys homage t o fire departments in gener al and the F ern Creek Fire Department in particular . The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f

SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A ne wish “concept” of the Orlandobased Darden chain that runs Olive Garden, Red Lobster and Bahama Br eeze, this hot Hurstbourne spot off ers good ribs in a nois y sports-bar environment that emulates a Colorado ski lodge. $$ p

JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpos t of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smok ed on the premises, with sauc e served on the side as it should be. $

TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500.

From the t omato tang t o a smok y Blue Ridge savor, Roma’s advertises its ribs as the bes t dressed in town. Burgers, chicken and steaks are available as w ell, but w e recommend the r acks and baby backs of pork and beef. $$$ p

JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-582 9. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little w ooden shack that looks jus t like a c ountry BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ f

VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 9219 US 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), makes his own in this Pr ospect storefront, and the smok ed goodies here rate as good as any I ever ate. $

SMOKIN’ BBQ 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Pike, New Albany, IN, 283-4061. $ f

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BEEF O’BRADY’S 2 39 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2 542 32 2 , 562 8 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-2 2 2 6, 106 Sears Ave., 897-3725, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-8881.

If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer , take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome en vironment that will suit Mom and Pop and the kids t oo. $ BIG DAVE’S OUTPOST 1801 Bardstown Rd., 45932 90. Now open in the old house at Bar dstown Road and Speed A venue recently vacated by Judge Roy Bean, Big Dave’s evokes a hint of the happy memory of the old Fat Cats that once held court here: In similar f ashion, it’s a casual, laidback neighborhood saloon, wher e libations and simple pub grub are the order of business. $ p f e

FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2 930.

Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chick en attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a W ichita, Kansasbased chain, F ox & Hound’ s new free-standing property at Oxmoor Center features a “midcasual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large, classy venue with plenty of wood paneling, billiards tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthe ws neighborhood ta vern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e

BLUE MULE SPORT S CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’C onnor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar. Riley died before their dream came true . But no w O’Connor proudly presides over this 90-seat casual Jeff ersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule .” $ p e BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732 , 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12 901 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454- 3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f

DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quit e as his toric as Gideon Shry ock’s Jefferson County Courthouse around the corner, but this popular bar and short-or der spot seems as if it has been a hangout f or lawyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARD S 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do you like guitars with your grub? A popular half-way-home hangout for decades in the heart of St. Matthe ws, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136.

Family-owned since 1952 , Flabby’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’s top destinations for inexpensive downhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes t o fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection dr aw Highlands f olks to this c ozy neighborhood pub. For a lat e night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it ’s one of the bes t options in the city. $$ p

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HOOTERS (see listing under Casual Dining) JABBER’S FAMILY SPORTS GRILL 612 1 Bardstown Rd., 231-3687 $$ p THE LIGHTHOUSE 2 02 Main S t., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83-0077. This lighthouse has been a beac on of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetiz ers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and des serts round out the menu.

A full bar in back and dining ar ea in front serviced by a friendly staff invites regular return trips. $ MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-7916. This full service restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. One particular claim to fame is their hamburger menu. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2 630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e

WATCH ALL YOUR FAVORITE SPORTING EVENTS ON OUR 106" LARGE SCREEN T.V. (WITH 5 OTHER T.V.’s THROUGHOUT)

CHAMPIONS SPORTS RESTAURANT 2 80 W. Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 46.

Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alt ernative with a K entucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flo wing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f CRIBSTONE PUB 1202 Bardstown Rd., 459-3339. This tiny Bardstown Road eatery turns a neighborhood bar into a lobster and steak house, where fine seafood and beef is serv ed without pomp or circumstance in a setting so casual that you can wear your shorts and T-shirt to dine. $$$ p

HOOPS GRILL AND SPORT S BAR 12205 Westport Rd., 32 7-8002 , 6733 Strawberry Ln., 3 75-4667.

The name sa ys it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place in these friendly neighborhood spots where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f

R PLACE PUB 9603 Whipps Mill Rd., 42 5-8516. A neighborhood landmark for 15 years, R Place used to be known mostly for its libations. But that was before co-owner Cres Bride’s wife Tiffany became the chef and introduced a hearty plate lunch, with daily main course and choice of two sides. Diners also give thumbs up t o first-rate chicken wings and the famous R Place burger with Maker’s Mark sauce. $ p e SADDLE RIDGE S ALOON Fourth Street Live, 5693507. $ p f e SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almos t like two restaurants in one, Saints—occupying the St. Matthews space formerly known as Jake & Elwood’s—features both a small, intimate, candlelighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. Saints is mostly about the bars and the music, but don’t overlook its casual f are, from salads to pasta and excellent pizzas. $$ p e

Appetizers, Sandwiches, Salads & Pizza Drink Specials Daily Entertainment – Thur.-Sat.

Pool, Darts, & Games HOURS:

Mon.-Fri. 4-4 • Sat. & Sun. 12-4

102 Bauer Avenue • 894-8030 (between Frankfort Ave & Lexington Rd across from Tom Payette Jaguar)

GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 635-6475. A longtime gathering plac e for U of L s tudents, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the univ ersity campus off ers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It ’s perhaps bes t known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the bes t burgers in town. $

STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2 2 39 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old f ashioned neighborhood ta vern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar (with leanings in the dir ection of IU). Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar mak e this a hidden gem. $ p e SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ pf TAILGATERS SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2 787 S. Floyd St., 637-52 41. Tailgating? No need t o open y our lawn chair on the Papa John’s Stadium parking lot before the U of L game now that Tailgaters is here.

Billed as a pr emier destination for good food and lots of fun, this casual spot features classic American favorites and seafood specialties, plus a full bar, TVs and an expansive game room. $ p fe THE TRESTLE SPORTS CAFÉ 263-7130 $ p VIC’S CAFÉ 4338. $ p

3701 Hopewell Rd.,

E. Market St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-

GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2 735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2 42 4. Located in the L ouisville International Airport Hilton. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches ar e available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f

WOODFORD RESERVE BAR & GRILLE Louisville International Airport, 363-2526. Named after local distiller Brown-Forman’s artisanal br and of Bourbon, this is the airport’s fine-dining facility, serving Kentucky-style dishes in a sit-down environment. $

HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2 394724. In addition t o its full bar and beer gar den, and lively conversation, the Hit ching Post Inn offers an arr ay of pub grub , including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p

ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer A ve., 894-8030. If y ou’re looking for casual dining, ZaZ oo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and welcoming neighborhood-bar feeling. The fare is simple but well prepared, and goes a bit beyond pub grub to

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cover quick bites like chicken tenders and a “pizza burger.” $ p f e

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2 739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2 2 2 4. A mus t-stop destination for beer lo vers on the national artisanal-brew trail, but it ’s more than jus t a brewpub. BBC’s management giv es equally serious attention to both liquid and solid f are, making this a gr eat place to stop in f or both dinner and a beer. $ p f e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St . (Slugger Field), 515-0174. Making beautiful use of the historic red-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Browning’s offers first-rate brewpub beers and tasty, informal fare that r anges from pub grub to pastas, to pizza. $$ p f e CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 458872 7. Giving ne w meaning t o the t erm “microbrewery,” Cumberland Br ews may be one of the smalles t eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its cr owds the old-f ashioned way by providing very good f ood, friendly service, and high-quality hand-cr afted artisan beers. $ f e RICH O’S PUBLIC HOUSE 3312 Plaza Dr ., New Albany IN, 94 9-2 804. Decent barbecue and pub grub make Rich O’ s a popular hangout, and his remarkable beer list of more than 100 selections from around the w orld—and now locally br ewed craft beers—attracts beer lovers from all over. $ e

CAFÉ KILIMANJARO 649 S. F ourth St., 583-4332 .

Café Kilimanjaro showcases Black-heritage cuisine, offering well-prepared treats from Africa, the Caribbean and Black America r anging from fiery Ethiopian w ots (meat barbecue) to spicy Jamaican jerk cuisine to the comforting soul food of the American South. $ p f CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1215 Gilmore Ln., 968-8659. Add yet another int eresting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s increasingly international dining scene. Friendly f olks serve generous portions of filling, spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om West Africa in this tin y (three-table) free-standing building at Gilmore and Preston Highway. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. Fans of Ab yssinia, the Ethiopian restaurant on Frankfort Avenue, will be pleased to learn that Queen of Sheba is their old f avorite, with the same o wners and es sentially the same menu, now moved to the small mot el on Bardstown Road that formerly housed India Palace. New is an all-you-can-eat Ethiopian lunch buffet on weekdays. $ TERANGA AFRICAN RES TAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 458-7172. This bright and sunn y new spot in Buechel houses v ery friendly f olks who’ll introduce you to the culinary delights of West Africa. The sparkling venue is on the lo w-budget side, but where else in town can you enjoy intriguing African dishes while w atching Senegalese music videos on satellite TV? $

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2 85-8888. Competent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet offerings stay fresh and hot mak es these Southern Indiana buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ASIAN PEARL 2 060 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 4956800. Asian Pearl adv ertises its Chinese Gr and Buffet as “T he Largest Buffet Selection in Kentuckiana,” prompting a trip t o check it out. It stands out from the crowd by offering a selection of Thai dishes in addition to the usual Chinese. $ AUGUST MOON 2 2 69 Lexington Rd., 456-656 9.

August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kit chen and fr om the s taff makes it a t op spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the r ear affords an alfr esco dining experience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot ma y not off er the trendiest Asian f are, but it ’s a r eliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, att entively fried ric e, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672 . A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the mos t popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. It ’s generally packed with students, professors, and a squadron of campus polic e so lar ge that one wonders who’s watching the campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA KING Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN., 923-1288. $ CHINA KING PALACE 6203 Old Shepherdsville Rd., 969-9696. On the edge of the county line, there’s a bustling kitchen that prepares sweet, sour and spicy Asian and Chinese entrées and a la cart e items to go. Carry out service only. $ CHINA SEA BUFFET 0838. $

12 689 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-

CHINATOWN 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 896-9888, 4214 Outer Loop, 968-2688. If you’re hungry, you can get more to eat her e for less than jus t about anyplace else in town, and the weekend seafood buffet in particular is a deal that ’s hard to beat. $ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHINESE RESTAURANT 8605 Preston Hwy., 9687450. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $

2

HAHN’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 493-02 34. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. 2 Hahn’ s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p

CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RES TAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 12 55 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-8887. A s tandout among fastwww.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 73

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food shopping-center Chinese eat eries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 32 6-0099 , 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973. $ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 2 33 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buff et in a chic Eas t End shopping strip, offers a good r ange of Chinese treats on its all- you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ DYNASTY BUFFET 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The continuing proliferation of all- you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. Most of them look pretty much alike, and the f ood tends to be similar t oo. But I’m happ y to report that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$

EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

A Highlands staple for good reason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk busines s. The Sesame Chicken is one of our publishers’ favorites. $$ p

GRAND BUFFET 5362 Dixie Hwy., 447-8833. $

EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 42 6-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese r estaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ p

GREAT WOK 2 502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a f astfood Chinese spot, but this one s tands out, generating a buzz of w ord-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $

EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empr ess was one of L ouisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its f are still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p

HAPPY DRAGON 2 600 W. Broadway, 778-2 573.

Catering to office and residential customers, this Chinese restaurant has serv ed the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f

FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ FORMOSA CHINESE RES TAURANT 2 116 State St., New Albany, IN, 948-2 540 . One of the leading Southern Indiana entries in the Chinese-restaurant sweepstakes, Formosa offers a hearty buff et and, Chinese friends report, “a Taiwanese taste.” $

EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hw y., 568-2 688.

Serving Chinese and American f ood from the menu or the buffet. $

GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $

EGGROLL KING 4819 Dixie Hwy, 449-3614. $

GOLDEN WALL 3111 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the f ast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $

HARVEST MOON 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-2 100.

Modern and efficient in its Eas t End shopping center location, Harvest Moon is a cut above fastfood Chinese; bett er yet, it adds a f ew Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $ HONG KONG CHINESE RES TAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. T hird St., 36 7882 8. One of the man y international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and f ast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials f or an occasional intriguing item. $ HOUSE OF DRA GON 12 6 Breckenridge Ln., 8937994. Not jus t fast food, this longtime St. Matthews favorite offers an extensive menu of Chinese regional dishes in an attr active sit-down setting. $$ IMPERIAL PALACE 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228. $ JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 42 5-98 78. When I’ve got a hank ering for brunch, I choose Chinese .

Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t mis s it at mid-da y Friday through Monday, when it off ers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p JASMINE 1382 3 English V illa Dr., 2 44-8896.

Operated by the owners of Wang’s Wok, another above-average Middletown Chinese spot, recently opened this charming Asian eat ery, where you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventurous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f JUMBO BUFFET 2 731 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitt er, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buff et, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buffets, King Buffet offers a standard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes, with a few sushi items. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the f amiliar standards plus a small lunch buff et. $ KING’S BUFFET 5538 New Cut Rd., 375-2236. $ LUCKY DRAGON 809 S. KY Hwy 53, Lagrange, KY, 222-1568. The pastoral setting of Oldham C ounty surrounding the Day’s Inn Motel might not be the first place you would look f or upscale Mandarin style dining, but pr epare to be surprised. Gues ts are treated to Far East hospitality and a v aried menu. $ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fresh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous Hikes Point buffet serves the menu clas sics from China as w ell as some Japanese and American entrées. $$

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MANCHU WOK 7900 Shelbyville Rd. ( Oxmoor Shopping Center), 429-8207. $ NEW WORLD BUFFET 92 2 8 Westport Rd., 42 31788. I rate this one of the city’ s best (if not quite the biggest) all-you-can-eat Chinese buff et, not only because it offers a good selection of Chinese dishes but, mor e important, because it sho ws a consistent commitment to quality. $ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-0188. Mas terful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnific ent hotpots, donburi dishes, and w ooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the dozens of other A sian spots in the L ouisville area.

Beer and wine are available. $$ ORIENTAL EXPRESS 12 567 Shelbyville Rd., 2 449838. This spot in Middletown stands a cut above its shopping-center status in its atmospher e, and maybe two cuts above the median in its f ood, a smorgasbord of both Chinese and Japanese fare that is good enough to justify a special trip. $ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 89 7-1017.

One of the oldest continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a not ch under ne w owners, featuring both tr aditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese. $ p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this hea vy traffic lunch area.

This establishment is quit e good with L o Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $ PEKING CITY 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188. The regular menu f eatures Chinese-restaurant standards. If you have a yen for the exotic, see if you can get the authentic T aiwanese menu—an intriguing regional cuisine ne w to Louisville, but not always offered to non-Chinese. $

YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 88-8313, 82 7 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $

EDNA’S GOOD S TUFF 9810 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 77500. Add another Asian cuisine to the increasingly diverse selection a vailable in L ouisville. Edna’s is good Filipino stuff, filling rice-and-noodle fare that blends influences of Spain, China and the Americas in a cuisine that ’s very easy to like. Popular dishes include lumpia (Filipino egg r oll) and pancit (a delicious noodle s tir-fry). The all- you-can-eat Sunday buffet offers exceptional value. $$

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 2 17 S. Fifth St., 581-0 700.

Adding international flair t o its do wntown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine , serious sushi bar in a s torefront just across the street from the courthouse. $ FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12 905 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-0036.

Part of the fun of sitt ing at the sushi bar is that

you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back, sip y our tea while the artis t creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 4 12 -3339.

This large Japanese-farmhouse building housed Benihana for many years. New management offers similar delights, with the tr aditional sliceand-dice food show and good sushi. Bes t deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana A ve., Jeffersonville IN, 2 80-8500 . Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese restaurant is drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar, cool and stylish Maido is L ouisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant in the s tyle of K ansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f

tastefully exciting. casually chic.

QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788. $$ SESAME CHINESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not just another shopping-center Chinese restaurant, this East End eatery has provided some of the bes t fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 42 66767. One of m y favorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has s tood the test of time, Sichuan G arden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of f are. $ WANG’S WOK 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. This bright and attractive spot in Middletown is a step above your usual Chinese f ast food. Dishes ar e served on attr active gold-rimmed whit e china, and there’s table servic e with a friendly , fluent hostess. Worth a special trip. $ WOK EXPRESS 2 34 W. Broadway, 583-8988. T his corner spot has housed a v ariety of r estaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the mos t affordable. $ WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 45 2 -2 646.

Traditional Chinese f are. Family-owned-andoperated, this popular neighborhood es tablishment has enjo yed a s teady patronage for seventeen years. $ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 6-0800. This locally o wned and operated Oxmoor sp ot is c olorful and s tylish. It offers an intriguing arr ay of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with f ast-food efficiency and pric es happily mat ched by sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 75

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OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheery Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named aft er Japan’s second largest city and the home of one of its mos t historic samurai castles. Sushi Chef James Lae pr esides, and that’s a good thing: a first-rate sushi chef, his welcoming presence and excellent English makes diners feel at home. $$ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 89 7-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quart ers in a St. Matthews shopping c enter, Sakura Blue—direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—r anks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-5550. Trendy, even glitzy, with hard-edged industrial decor—and most important, excellent food—Sapporo ranks in m y ratings as the city’ s No. 1 spot f or sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 394-012 3. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough t o appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough t o satisfy jus t about an yone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p

block east of do wntown. Despite its do wnscale look, you won’t want to miss its extensive selection of K orean and Japanese f avorites. Hot and sour soup may be the city’s best. $$ f KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that off ers a hearty , spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. This little spot has been a secr et since the ‘70s, and it jus t keeps on going. W alk into what looks like a diner in an offic e building, but push past the c ounter to the back r oom, where you’ll find generous heaps of r eally authentic K orean food for next to nothing. $$

MAI’S THAI RES TAURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic T hai dishes, Mai’ s is the eatery to beat among the metr o area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $

TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from high-quality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$

SALA THAI 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Brook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai offers Louisville an upscale T hai alternative, presenting ethnic f are in a s tylish setting that places it among the bes t, and certainly the most upscale, of the city’s growing cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p

KIM’S ASIAN GRILLE 813 E. Mark et St., 595- 702 5.

This lovable little K orean and P an-Asian eatery occupies unimposing quart ers on a gritty urban

THAI CAFÉ 2 2 2 6 Holiday Manor, 42 5-4815. Y ou’ll find this small café tuck ed into a c orner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Cha vantee Snow and her f amily offer a small but w ell-prepared selection of authentic T hai dishes at v ery reasonable prices. $

Hibachi Grill

MIDDLETOWN 12905 Shelbyville Road 253-0036 SPRINGHURST 3576 Springhurst Blvd. 339-1978 Over 50 Different Special Rolls Specials Changed Weekly

All Fish Flown in Fresh Daily

Steak • Seafood • Sushi Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2 Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10 Fri-Sat 4:30-11 New! Sun Noon-9:30 76 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

THAI KITCHEN 5203 Dixie Highway, 448-4710. The historic House of Chen, one of the city’ s first and longest-lived Chinese restaurants, is no more, but you can s till get its f amous egg r olls and other Chinese specialties—and Thai goodies too—under new management that has br ought the Dixie corridor its first local taste of Thai. $ THAI-SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-68 71. Thai food—a fiery-aromatic cuisine that per ches somewhere between China and India on the world culinary spectrum—is worth getting to know. This Highlands spot is L ouisville’s first and oldest Thai eatery. $$ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of restaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has restaurants in K entucky, Tennessee and Indiana.

The “Smile” r epresents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the five-chile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 89 7-7682 . The owner-host of this friendly , casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows.

The warmth of his w elcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Café ranks not jus t as one of m y favorite Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ CAFÉ MIMOSA 12 16 Bardstown Rd., 458-2 2 33.

Dating back to the ‘80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management still offers a short selection

Sushi Bar

COME EXPERIENCE THE BEST SUSHI IN TOWN!

Dinner and a Show! a Romantic or Family Fun Experience.

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of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as well as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-7110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $

IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGr ange, 2 2 2 -2 2 86. A w arm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful place for a tall glass of Guinness, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f

VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154.

This little South End s torefront is w ell worth seeking out. The chef goes be yond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the f ood or service. $

MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-12 2 2 . A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking sc ene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e

ZEN GARDEN 2 2 40 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple t est: at the end of the meal, I mus t not miss meat. Zen Garden passes this t est with flying w ok and chopsticks. $ f

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-center storefront has bec ome a popular after-work gathering spot f or the city’ s growing community of immigr ants from Bosnia, for whom it’s a comfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ DJULI 5312 S. Third St., 368-5199. Bosnian fare is the specialty in this tin y spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $ PAPILLON GRILL & BAR 1616 Grinstead Dr., 562 0058. This friendly little Eastern European spot is run by Bosnian immigr ants who off er tasty fare and casual elegance in a serious effort to become the city’s first white-tablecloth example of fine Balkan cuisine. $$ p

O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an assortment of beers may be traditionally Irish, but the f ood here is mains tream American pub grub, from the cheesy fries to the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood ta vern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e

BRICK OVEN ITALIAN EATERY 9910 Linn Station Rd., 42 5-4310. There’s nothing that tas tes and smells as good as Northern Italian cuisine as it comes out of a brick oven. The cutting board is a blur with sandwiches, salads and appetiz ers and the wine is red and dry. $ BUCA DI BEPPO 2 051 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca sc ene is fun, a c onscious parody of the e xuberant decor of f amily ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p

CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412 -2 2 18. Carrabba’s isn’t y our ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality oliv e oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 2 85-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, C ome Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlik e most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a f amily Italian spot that w ouldn’t be out of plac e in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark f or 30 years, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’ s home. Friendly and unpretentious hospitality, the quiet but not staid atmosphere, and the fine Italian f ood prompts the c omment, “They do e verything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LENTINI’S 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-3020. The more things change, the more they stay the same, and happily for hungry L ouisvillians, this old sa ying holds true at L entini’s, where it’s all-Italian, all of the time, with old f amily recipes, authentically prepared and served with style in a classic Italianeatery setting, plus a first-rate Italian wine list with many selections available by the glass. $$ p LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If y ou think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New York City-style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on j ust about e very street corner there, but only Luigi ’s offers in i ts authentic f orm in the Derby City. $ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. The American-accented Italian f are at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it’s good, featuring a

SARAJEVO CAFÉ & RES TAURANT 32 5 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919. In the running for tiniest restaurant in t own, this f our-table spot is mor e beer bar than eatery, but the meat-based ethnicBosnian goodies like bureks (turnovers) and cevapi (beef sausages ) are excellent. If y ou can get in when they’re grilling a whole baby lamb over coals, it’s an experience not to miss. $

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-882 2 . For a city wi th a s trong German heritage, Louisville is w oefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuine ly Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel family comes straight from Bavaria to Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic f are. The setting has as authentic a f eeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

NIK’S RIVIERA CAFÉ 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 2611450. An o wnership change appar ently won’t cause much immediat e change in this popular Greek-Mediterranean favorite in the f ar East End. They’ll lose the band but k eep the weekend belly dancer, and the ne w owners will add a f ew more Greek dishes t o an already expansive menu that includes a f estive mix of Gr eek, Continental and American options. $$ e www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 77

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short but diverse selection of hearty pastas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 82 9 E. Market St., 540-9975. Adjacent to the locally owned and operated Felice Vineyards on East Market, Melillo’s offers hearty and delicious home-style Italian-American fare—and you can enjoy it with a glass of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original v entures of a national firm that places its properties in renovated urban buildings, this favorite lights up the his toric Levy Brothers’ department s tore. Bright and nois y, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p THE OLIVE GARDEN 132 0 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190. The top property of the Orlando-based Darden chain, Oliv e Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining indus try.

Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauc es, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks ar ound empty int o this bustling Italian eat ery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, z esty salads, red wine and ic ed tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2 730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular des tination, a plac e to see and be seen—and, while you’re at it, enjo y a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-5575. Old-fashioned Italian-American family fare is served up with a w arm and casual welcome at Ray Parella’s, the latest venture of a family that’s been pleasing locals f or a generation. $ f ROCKY’S ITALIAN GRILL 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. This longtime Southern Indiana favorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selecti on of bottled beers and a selec t choice of Italian-American entrées, with a great view of the city from its riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 3-92 2 0. The Italian-style menu at thi s casual, Dallas-based f amily chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 2 669 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 9445400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $

of Jerez to provide an edible lid for your glass of Sherry. $$ p f PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-646 1.

This eatery’s name ma y sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only sour ce of Ar gentinian cuisine. Steaks seared on authentic parrillada charcoal grills ar e a primary dr aw, but ther e’s excellent chicken, seafood and much mor e—plus an affordable selection of intriguing Ar gentinian wines. $$ p f

BOMBAY INTERNATIONAL MARKET 1591 Bardstown Rd., 473-2 077. The familiar landmark building that used to house the Bonn ycastle Pharmacy has turned into an ethnic convenience store. Its all-youcan-eat Indian buffet may be the cheapest lunch you’ll find in the neighborhood. $ f e INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown Road and no w housed in this e xoticlooking East End building that has housed a s tring of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. The expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good value. $$ f KASHMIR INDIAN RES TAURANT 12 85 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’ s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f MAHARAJA INDIAN RESTAURANT 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 72 1-72 00. Back in the lat e 1980s, an upscale Indian restaurant featuring the cuisine of the Moghuls, India’s royalty, led a short lif e in this rather exotic looking building. It r ecently returned to its original r oots, with s tylish Indian f are prepared in an open kit chen by the same management as suburban Shalimar. $$ p SHALIMAR INDIAN RES TAURANT 182 0 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in pric e, this Indian restaurant has bec ome the patriar ch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of Indian dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $ p TAJ INDIA 9904 Linn Station Rd., 412 -5579. This Plainview Indian eat ery, popular with L ouisville’s Indian community, attracts vegetarians and omnivores alike with an excellent selection of meatless dishes on a menu that also pr ovides Indian meat, poultry and seaf ood dishes made in an authentic style. $

VOLARE 2 300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446.

Benvenuto “Benny” Siddu brings to Louisville the upscale Italian concepts he built in Chicago with the Sinatra-evoking Volare and Cantare. It makes its mark on the local dining sc ene with a br oad range of Italian dishes, suave service and a luxurious but comfortable setting. $$$ p f

BABYLON 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 899-9100 . With excellent if simpl e authentic Ir aqi fare at r ockbottom prices and an attitude that says “Welcome, we’re glad you’re here!”—plus belly dancing on weekends—Babylon offers a po werful reason to head straight for the East End and a meal at this charming little place. $ f

WILLIE’S ITALIAN 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $

CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 4 73-8694. T he latest in a long series of eat eries in this pleasant Highland’s building off ers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biry ani in immediat e juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-style, just about 24/7. An upscale Hook ah Lounge upstairs offers Indian dishes and e xotic Asian “hook ah” water pipes for tobacco. $ p f

DE LA T ORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955.

From Central Spain, authentic Castilian food ranging from tapas to a memorable paella make this Bardstown Road standby a unique experience reminiscent of dining on a squar e in Madrid. $$$ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4 955. Nextdoor to the e xcellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar , featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés 78 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

GRAPE LEAF 2 2 17 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Yet another Middle Eas tern eatery, yet another good inexpensive source of f ood on Fr ankfort Avenue. $ f MANOOSH’S 558 S. Fifth St., 584-0004. At lunch time, Manoosh’s is an abo ve average downtown

eatery. Come back f or dinner, though, and y ou’ll find owner-chef Manoosh Khosr owshahi turning out an e xotic mix of Italian, Gr eek, Mexican and American dishes, plus Ir anian goodies fr om his native Azerbaijan. Recently renovated, it’s better than ever now. $ f OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. No matter whether you pronounce it “Ghee-r o” or “Gyro,” you won’t be disappoint ed with the classic Greek sandwich served at Omar’s Gyro, a tiny Highlands shop with a simple , short and inexpensive bill of fare that seldom fails to please. $ f SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584- 7800. Majid Ghavami, a v eteran of Casa Grisanti and Vincenzo’s, has ele vated this Persian (Ir anian) restaurant far beyond a mer e ethnic eat ery. It transcends its location, a small urban-r enewal building, with stylish decor, an intriguingly e xotic menu, and a le vel of careful, professional service worthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. $$$ p SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-112 5. Another ethnic option joins the increasingly diverse set of lunchtime choices downtown. Yes, you can get standard American fare here, but who’d do that when y ou can enjoy such appetizing Ar abian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyr os-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f SHEMROUN’S PERSIAN GRILL 2 017 Brownsboro Rd., 896-1055. Let’s welcome Shemroun’s, a delightful new Persian (Iranian) restaurant in the Lower Brownsboro neighborhood. F ar from pricey and not at all s tuffily formal, its w ellplanned décor, friendly attitude and excellent fare make it a welcome addition to the city’s growing cadre of quality Persian restaurants. $$

CRAWDADDY’S CAFÉ 12 07 E. Mark et St., Jeffersonville, IN., (812) 282-6561. Cajun favorites “with a twis t” are promised at this Southern Indiana spot. The chef, a veteran of Simpsonville’s Old Stone Inn, should bring the culinary expertise needed to make this new entry a winner. $$ f DOWNTOWN NEW ORLEANS 1157 S. Sec ond St., 797-5644. The smallish Old L ouisville storefront offers a Cajun-s tyle setting that ’s worth a visit if you like the spicy goodnes s of L ouisiana-style eats. $ f e FURLONG’S 2 350 Frankfort Ave., 896-2 610. This Louisiana-style restaurant in Crescent Hill boas ts a horse-racing theme that unit es the spirits of Kentucky’s and L ouisiana’s racing industries. A comfortably cozy spot, it off ers a memor able selection of Cajun fare. $$$ f p GUMBO A GO-GO 2 109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046.

This small eat ery that sits w ell back fr om Frankfort Ave. gained a sparkling new personality that outguns a couple of lackluster predecessors in the space. Casually informal and very affordable, with all dishes pric ed at $5. W e’re talking about serious L ouisiana Creole and Cajun cookery, dispensed with a friendly Ne w Orleans accent amid downscale Mardi Gras colors. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426- 1320.

Perhaps the best Louisiana-style fare you’ll find in Louisville is served at this East End shoppingcenter eatery. A lengthy menu and fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow cooked by a New Orleans-born chef. $$ p

BAHAMA BREEZE 104 Oxmoor Court, 423-9040. It’s a long w ay from Oxmoor C enter to the Florida Keys, but this chain-oper ated eatery does a good

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job of bridging the gap , offering a happy beachjoint experience without the oc ean view. Bahama Breeze is s tylish and upscale , with a good selection of island fare and a great bar. $$ p f e HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 This bright little spot in St. Matthews gets Cuban fare right, with hosts Fernando and Christina Martinez providing friendly English-speaking servic e in an appealing, rather upscale setting, with bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami. T ry the r opa vieja, t ostones and a medianoche sandwich f or a tas te of Old Havana. $ p f MAMBO CUBAN CUISINE 5309 Mitscher Ave., 3631160. Authentic island fare and very friendly service (plus live music man y evenings) make this goodsize, stylish South End room the city’s place to go when you’re in the mood for Cuban cuisine. $$ p e

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2138. Bazo’s Fresh Mexican Grill is an ine xpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the bes t fish tac os this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple f ast-food Mexican fare. $ f DON PABLOS MEXICAN KITCHEN 940 E. IN 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 84-1071. Born in North T exas and now based in Atlanta, this 100-property MexicanAmerican chain, off ers full bar servic e and a variety of dishes that r ange from sizzling f ajitas with portabello mushr oom, beef or chick en to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p EL CAPORAL 7319 Preston Hwy., 969-9693, 2 2 09 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blank enbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Highway 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 82 - 7174.

Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happ y trend: excellent, authentic

Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p EL MUNDO 2 345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the tr endy flair of Rick Ba yless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago , but the f are mines a similar vein and does so nearly as w ell. $ p f EL NOPAL 9473 Westport Rd., 32 7-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 Ne w Cut Rd., 380-844 7. Associated with the same f amily that runs the smaller El Nopalito, (or “the little cactus”), El Nopal (“ the cactus”) offers similar delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in somewhat larger and more comfortable surroundings. $ p f

EL RODEO MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American clas sics from salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ EL TARASCO 542 5 New Cut Rd., 368-562 8, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010. Add El T arasco to the happy new genre of r estaurants run b y Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it eas y to enjoy a South-of-the-Bor der culinary adventure without compromise. $ p e ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-8889, 62 01 Dutchmans Ln., 893-92 97, 7707 Preston Hwy., 962 -5380, 700 Riverside Dr., Clarksville, IN, 2 800032 . One of the firs t of the mor e authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips t o filling Me xican main courses and tas ty desserts, it’s a w orthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e

EL NOPALITO 402 8 Taylorsville Rd., 458- 72 78, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880. This modest little eat ery used t o be a Taco Bell, but y ou’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run b y a family from Mexico, it’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f

FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 1132 0 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ p

EL PARAISO 62 01 Preston Hwy., 968-4873. On weekend nights, it ’s one of the hott est Latino spots in town, attracting Louisville’s Hispanic community (and Anglos, too) for music and dancing. It’s less frenzied by day, but if y ou like excellent Mexican food and don’t mind a bar gain, it’s well worth making the trip. $ p

JALAPEÑO’S 4430 Dixie Hw y., 448-5678.

Jalapeño’s (Louisville’s first outpost of a Lexington-based mini-chain) is o wned and operated by folks of Mexican heritage, but its fare and its flair mak e it c omfortable for wary “gringos” in sear ch of a mello w Margarita and mild, familiar Mexican food. $$ p e

EL RESTAURANTE CHIQUITO 624 Cherry St., Ne w Albany, IN,944-2660. $ p

JUAN’S MEXICAN RES TAURANT 3061 Breckenridge Ln., 451-2827. $ p

EL REY MEXICAN RES TAURANT 2 918 Hikes Ln., 454-652 0. Although it ’s more Mexican-American than hard-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food environment, and affordable prices. $ f

KY TACO 6911 Shepherdsville Rd., 962 -85 2 6.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eat ery that is more than it appears t o be, and that goes

Indian Restaurant Come In and See What’s

NEW! NEW MENU! NEW PATIO! Interior Renovated & Upgraded!

LUNCH HOURS: Monday - Friday ✦ 11:30a - 3:00p

Lunch Buffet: Saturday & Sunday ✦ 11:30a - 3:00p DINNER HOURS: Sunday - Thursday ✦ 5:00p - 10:00p Friday & Saturday ✦ 5:00p - 10:30p Take Out & Catering Available 1285 Bardstown Road (Across from Mid-City Mall)

(502) 473-8765

✦

473-2078 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 79

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for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ LA EMBAJADA 7502 Preston Hwy., 964-8775. $ LA HERRADURA 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN., 2 80-8650. Is it pos sible to enjoy truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English? These friendly folks make it simple: a handy bi-lingual menu and a smiling staff make you feel at home.$

“The Best Mexican Food & Margaritas in Louisville” Monday-Thursday 11am-10pm Friday 11am-11pm Saturday Noon-11pm Sunday Noon-9pm

CLUB SALSA Saturday – 10:30pm-4am 530 W. Main St. – 2nd Floor Los Aztecas Mexican Restaurant 502.561.8535

530 WEST MAIN 502.561.8535

LA MARIMBA 5412 Del Maria Way, 493-0201. $ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the mos t authentic ethnic Me xican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burrit os and mor e. You might run into a slight language barrier, but don’t be shy—Anglos are welcome here, and the staff is used to working through language differences. $ p LOLITA’S TACOS 42 2 2 Poplar L evel Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Me xican as y ou’ll find. Crisp or soft tac os and burrit os the siz e of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 42 6-3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 2 9 7-8003, 92 07 U.S. Hwy 42 , 2 2 8-2 450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender off erings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS INDIOS RES TAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 94 1-9770, 730 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-2929.

“Why have Tex-Mex when y ou can ha ve MexMex?” is asked in fun on the servers’ T-shirts. This eatery is well worth the trip t o Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p MAYAN GYPSY 624 E. Market St., 583-3300. It may have evolved from a mobile tac o van, but Bruc e Ucán’s high-style Yucatan and tr opical Mexican cooking shows his creative genius in the kitchen: subtle and c omplex, sometimes spicy but ne ver fiery, it is fully competitive in quality with the city’s best restaurants. $$$ f MEXICAN FIESTA 5414 Bardstown Rd., 762-0840. $

LOS AZTECAS M E X I C A N R ESTAU R A N T www.losaztecas.net OTHER LOUISVILLE LOCATIONS:

9207 U.S. Hwy. 42

502.228.2450

9606 Taylorsville Rd.

502.297.8003

1107 Herr Ln.

502.426.3994

80 Summer 2005 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hw y., 933-9523. It’s a bit of a trip out to Pleasure Ridge Park for those who don’t live nearby, but this little neighborhood restaurant, one of the city’s longerestablished Mexican spots, offers good and authentic dishes. $ p e PUERTO VALLARTA 42 14 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 970 Breckinridge Ln., 7 2 1-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Driv e, 42 9-5151, 100 Da ventry Ln., 412 -62 02 , 8602 Citadel W ay, 493-9606, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-9654. This chain operation boasts five local outlets plus more in Lexington and Fr ankfort. Fast-foodish in s tyle, Qdoba edges out its c ompetitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f

Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and suc culent and r oasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get an y better than this. $ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a c entury-old red-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will lea ve you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 62 01 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tin y storefront, next door to a Latino grocery store.

This is seriously ethnic s tuff, but Anglos ar e thoroughly welcome, the s taff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ TEQUILA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 7803 Old Third Street Rd., 368-3591. $

ALAMEDA 1381 Bardstown Rd., 459-6 300. After a brief sojourn into Northern Italy, reinvented as Mezzaluna Tuscan Grill, Alameda has returned in the face of what management calls “popular demand.” The familiar Southwestern favorites are back, and so is the casual f eel, complete with attractive renovations. $ p f MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2 001 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 893-6637, 12 001 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-62 50. “Welcome to Moe’s!” rings the merry shout of s taff whenever anyone walks in the door. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is fr eshly made from quality ingr edients and c omes in o versize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer Park Dr., 412-2461.

From Dallas-based Brink er International, the food-service chain that also operates Chili’s and the Macaroni Grill, this c ontemporary spin on traditional favorites offers a r ange of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to margaritas in a setting that emulates Old Mexico décor. $$ p f TIJUANA FLATS BURRITO CO. 2420 Lime Kiln Ln. , 412 -6700. Another entry in the gr owing niche of “fast casual T ex-Mex” eateries, specializing in burritos made fr om fresh ingredients while y ou wait. $$ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (19 locations).

Tumbleweed, which started as a humble Me xican restaurant in Ne w Albany, eventually came t o dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burrit os and sp icy chili c on queso. But w hat started as a sideline , mesquite grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the main draw. These days, diners ar e more likely to dig into a perfectly grilled steak and baked potato as into a burrit o. With its ne w Southwest focus, large and v aried menu and added wine lis t, “The Weed” still has diners returning in droves. $$ p f

ARTISAN’S COFFEE CAFÉ 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 4 12 0360. In Glenview Plaza off US 42, Artisan’s offers fresh gourmet coffee espresso drinks, upscale teas and baked goods. Bring y our portable c omputer and enjoy WiFi Internet access with y our cappuccino. $ e

RINCON LATINO 2840 Goose Creek Rd., 425-4548.

Truly authentic and ridiculously ine xpensive fare attracts a largely Spanish-speaking clientele. This little spot off ers one of the Eas t End’s most appetizing Mexican options. $

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 637-5399. $

ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria (and the tacos, in fact, are very fine), but the specialty,

BEAN STREET CAFÉ 2 736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-6262. New Albany’s first gourmet coffee shop, Bean Str eet, introduced the Sunn y Side to the joys of serious espr esso. Like all good

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coffee shops, it’s not just an eatery, but a cultur al hangout with an IUS flavor. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2 144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689.

Not just another funky neighborhood coffee shop, Caffe Classico is sleek, modern and very European in style. Outstanding espresso drinks, t eas and pastries are bolstered with a short lunch menu including fine panini, and it diff ers dramatically in mood and personality fr om many of its competitors. $ f CALIFORNIA’S COFFEE HOUSE 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620. $ f CLEO’S COFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $ COFFEE BEANERY 7900 Shelbyville Rd. ( Oxmoor Center), 339-0738. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f DAY’S ESPRESSO AND C OFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456- 1170, 72 0 W. Main St., 5844932 . Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s Bardstown branch has e verything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 82 7000. $ EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2 714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 12 95 L ongest Ave., 456-5108, 2 2 00 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103. Spartan, friendly and aff ordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pas tries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outs tanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545, 62 7 S. F ourth St., 540-9909 . Offering two ways to get wi red, this c ozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of L ouisville’s top Internet cafés, wher e you can enjo y a hot cappuccino while you surf the ‘net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB RO ASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1458. Said t o be the Southern Indiana’s first retail source of fr esh roasted coffee beans, HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING C OMPANY 2 910 Frankfort Ave., 893-6996, 9561B US Hw y 42 , 2 9 2 -2 710, 516 W .

Main St., 568-6 339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Fourth Street Live, 561-2 041, 4013 Dutchmans Ln., 895- 3115, 2 309 Fr ankfort Ave., 894-8060. These casual spots boas ts the ambience of a friendly old-f ashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f LOGOS COFFEE HOUSE 2250 Frankfort Ave., 8972272. $ f MASTER’S INTERNATIONAL COFFEE Bardstown Rd., 495-6484. $ f

4806

PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e STARBUCKS COFFEE (15 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTERY 2 12 2 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used t o roast their o wn coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said the y did it so w ell, they should turn pro—the result is Sunergos Coffee, another in the gr owing cadre of espresso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $

BAKELICIOUS 6915 Southside Dr ., 363-9040. The region’s first Asian bak ery, offering goodies that Chinese-American families have heretofore had to travel to Chicago t o find, Bak elicious offers a bewildering range of baked buns filled with curry meats, hot dogs, omelets, barbecue and custard. $ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 45 2 -12 10. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment—like the nearby Winston’s—is part of the culinary program at Sulliv an University. A r ecent renovation adds a t ouch of European style. The deli option is no mor e, but y ou can’t beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ BREADWORKS 362 8 Brownsboro Rd., 89 3-32 00, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0 300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 9209 US Hwy. 42, 228-8959. Helen has enjoyed a local clientele in Prospect for years. Now a second location brings her s weet addition to the Highlands community, with elegant cak es, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $

Call 452-1210

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKER Y & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pas tries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MAGIC CORNER BAKERY 335 W. Broadway (Camberley Brown Hotel), 583-12 34. Pastry Chef Brian Logsdon has opened this gourmet bak ery on the hot el’s main floor , offering a v ariety of artisan breads, pastries and cakes during a f ourhour window around midday. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelb yville Rd., 42 6-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin, a double choc olate with car amel and pecans. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438.

A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ic e cream while y ou wait for your hand-decorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ RAINBOW BLOSSOM BAKERY 311 Wallace Ave., 897-3648. Organic and vegan pastries, rolls, breads and cookies, all in the tradition of freshness, and healthiness. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1416 Bardstown Rd., 458-6363.

Some of the city’ s best desserts and pastries are available at this first-rate pastry shop. Debbie Richter-Keller, featured in Southern Living magazine among other local and r egional publications, has a w ay with Belgian choc olate that every sweet tooth should experience. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus e xcellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in the lavendertinted quarters of this c ozy little spot betw een Crescent Hill and St. Matthews. $

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MAP INDEX

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Come out to any of our three convenient locations and experience one of Louisvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest dining traditions with our relaxing atmosphere, delectable foods and incredible list of fine wines.

1321 Bardstown Rd. Louisville, KY 40204 456 .1702 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy.

Louisville, KY 40227 426. 0627 614 W. Main St. Louisville, KY 40202 582.1995 Catering and banquet rooms are available at our Bardstown Road and Downtown locations.

www.bristolbarandgrille.com www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2005 83

MAP INDEX

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

MAP â&#x20AC;˘ 1

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MAP • 2

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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

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EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

MAP â&#x20AC;˘ 3

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MAP • 4

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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

MAP • 5

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MAP • 6

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MAP

7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

MAPS • 7 • 8

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MAP

11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

MAP • 12

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

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If it ain’t messy, it ain’t good!

MAPS • 15 • 16

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So the next time you’re craving a nice Bar-B-Q dinner, just bring your appetite and head to the Big Red Barn known as Petterson’s We Deliver!

Open seven days a week Monday - Saturday 11am - 9pm Sunday 11am - 8pm 812-248-9063 7705 Highway 311 Sellersburg, IN

15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

Mouth Watering Ribs Pulled Chicken & Pork Daily Lunch Specials

MAP

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Since 1982, our passion for teaching has produced some of the finest chefs, cooks, pastry chefs, catering professionals and hotel & restaurant managers in the country. With 100% graduate employment since the beginning, the ingredients are here for an exciting, rewarding career. Give us a call to see what we can do for you!

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502.456.6505

3101 Bardstown Road â&#x20AC;˘ Louisville, KY 40205

800.844.1354 www.sullivan.edu

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Photo courtesy of John Nation

Try something original.

Louisvillians are very proud of their city. Naturally, we as independent restaurant owners, are very proud of what we offer to the dining experience in Louisville. Independent restaurants are the heart and soul of the city in which you choose to live and any city you choose to visit. Independent restaurants provide the fabric to help "clothe" the city. What we do, in each and every one of our restaurants, is say welcome, enjoy our hospitality, enjoy what makes our city special to us. When you leave one of our "Originals", you take a sense that you have been somewhere special, where, chances are, the owner greeted and seated you, and made you feel as if you were a guest in their own home!

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