SU B D S E C
TA R IL I S P IN T SID IO E N
Ballpark Fare Listings and maps to 900 restaurants
From Cracker Jack to crème brûlée, stadium cuisine goes major league
6 Sweet Successes Profiles of restaurant couples who live, love and labor together
PLUS over restaurant
The Clean Cop Grading a restaurant for cleanliness is as easy as A, B or C
Recipes Jack Fry’s signature shrimp, grits and red-eye gravy Plus 4 other grits hits!
$4.99 U.S. 4 2>
Z’s steaks are selected from Prime mid-western aged beef, hand-cut to order and cooked the way you like it. Z’s seafood is purchased directly from “day boat fisherman,” prepared simply and cooked to perfection. Don’t call prior to 4:00 p.m. about seafood specials for the evening… Chef is still at the airport… we just don’t know, yet! Z’s oyster lovers can select from both East and West Coast oysters!
Monday – Friday
11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Monday – Thursday Friday – Saturday Sunday
5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m. 5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m. 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.
Louisville’s ★The Courier-Journal ★★★&◆◆◆◆ Restaurant Opened in October 2000, Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse is independently owned and operated.
101 Whittington Parkway Louisville, KY 40222 Telephone (502) 429-8000 Facsimile (502) 339-0335 www.zsoysterbar.com Anti-established in 1971 in London, Hard Rock Cafe has been serving up great tunes and even better tasting food for millions of rockers around the world. And we don’t intend to stop anytime soon.
LOCATED AT 4TH STREET LIVE
424 SOUTH 4TH ST.
“Best All-Around Restaurant” CHATTANOOGA TIMES FREE PRESS
“Great Food and Service make J. Alexander’s a must-eat spot” THE DETROIT NEWS
“J. Alexander’s is just the right place” ST. PETE TIMES
“Voted one of the Best New Restaurants in Louisville” LOUISVILLE MAGAZINE
102 Oxmoor Court
3101 Bardstown Road - Louisville, Kentucky 40205 • 800.844.1354 • www.sullivan.edu 2
Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
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The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region. As the #1 used car dealer, Sam Swope is also The Used Car Authority with over 1,000 vehicles to choose from for immediate delivery. A Sam Swope Premier Pre-owned vehicle offers a quality automobile, at the right price, backed by an exclusive package of owner benefits including a 7 day exchange policy, warranty coverage up to 60 days, and complimentary Emergency Roadside Rescue. You can buy with confidence from a Sam Swope dealership. Quality automobiles. Competitive prices. Outstanding service. Once you see all that the Sam Swope Auto Group has to offer you will understand whyâ€Ś
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summer 2004 PUBLISHER / EDITOR IN CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DANIEL F. BOYLE PRODUCTION EDITORS RON MIKULAK STEVEN SHAW COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR ROBIN GARR JERRY SLATTER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS MICHAEL L. JONES RON MIKULAK MARTY ROSEN CONTRIBUTING CHEFS EUGENE BELL KATIE PAYNE CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT CRITIC MARTY ROSEN CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI DONOVAN DEFERRARO STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR DONNA GORDON EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT ALI BREE ROBERTSON ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA R. WOLFE TOM SFURA
Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY. 40201.
Single copies $4.99, Annual Subscriptions rate $18.00. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine® and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no way affiliated with Louisville Magazine® or any of its affiliates. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.
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From the kitchen of Club Grotto, Chef Clay Cundiff offers their lobster bouillabaisse with Littleneck clams and Prince Edward Island mussels. Photo by Dan Dry
p ro f i l e s 6 Sweet Successes
Many marriages don’t survive cohabitation. Yet some couples thrive even after they add another hemisphere of stress by operating a restaurant together. Do they know more about love or are they just too busy to hold a grudge? You be the judge.
fe a t u re sto r i e s The Clean Cop
Wayne Lang controls two signs outside a restaurant. One says A, B or C, reflecting its health inspection. The other says “open” or “closed.” We follow a Department of Health inspector to clarify the restaurant grading system.
Ballpark Fare Hot dogs, brats, popcorn and peanuts, sure. But baseball fans with refined palates can also find upscale offerings at the concession stand. Sushi and beer? Why not? Just don’t get rid of our Cracker Jack!
by Robin Garr
Is it time to pity the guys who spent a hundred dollars on a hightech cork lifter last year? The wine industry increasingly favors metal twist-tops and synthetic corks. It’s not as screwy as it may sound.
16 COMINGS & GOINGS
by Jerry Slatter
The Seelbach Bar’s bourbon impresario clarifies the “Where,” “What” and “How” of Kentucky’s signature spirit and may straighten out misconceptions of even veteran bourbon and branch sippers.
BEER by Roger A. Baylor
BEYOND THE LONGNECK
Step beyond that ice-cold, bland American lager this summer. Area breweries and better package stores offer wheat beers, Belgian lambics and ales with a berry tang. Rich-O’s brewmeister explains what is available locally.
MENU GEMS JACK FRY’S SHRIMP, GRITS
by Ron Mikulak
RECIPES FROM YOUR FAVORITE AREA RESTAURANTS
America’s answer to polenta: our guest chefs adapt grits to seafood, lamb chops and even foie gras.
Coverage of Louisville’s ever-evolving restaurant landscape—recent restaurant openings, closings, moves & changes.
Dining Guide Restaurant reviews and listings for more than 900 area eateries.
44 82 Maps Now that you have
Some restaurant-goers here in the Shallow South were intimidated by grits—until chefs like Shawn Ward popularized them in a dish that has become a bona fide bestseller.
co l u m n s
by Ron Mikulak
decided where to eat, we’ll show you how to get there. Our restaurant map directory details all the restaurants in our guide section on sixteen Louisville area maps.
[ comings ]
[ goings ] Even by the usual standard of action on the Louisville restaurant scene—a bubbly mix as yeasty as rising pizza dough—the past few months have seen an unusual pace of change, with some two dozen new restaurants opening their doors. Fourth Street Live led the charge, but the new-restaurant action reached every end of town and just about every kind of eatery from ethnic takeout to white tablecloth. Meanwhile, fewer than 10 metro-area restaurants went out of business during the period. Here’s a quick look at the highlights:
[ OPENINGS ] Fourth Street Live welcomed its first four venues, all national chains featuring an upscale mix of food, beverages and entertainment: Hard Rock Café and Red Star Tavern feature sit-down dining as a significant part of their offerings; at Parrott Beach and Red Cheetah Lounge, it’s about the drinks and the music. Making it five in Fourth Street live, T.G.I. Friday’s opened an additional area location. Elsewhere around the city, Les Naiman, Louisville’s one-time deli king, has returned to the business after a 20-year break with Naiman’s Deli, 237 Whittington Parkway. In the far East End, Paul Crump, late of Porcini, has reopened the historic Old Stone Inn at 6905 Shelbyville Road in Simpsonville. In and around Crescent Hill, Chef Clay Wallace’s Café Lou Lou, 1800 Frankfort Avenue, is a welcome addition to Clifton, with light fare in a casually, arty setting. Cyclers Café, 2295 Lexington Road, offers well-made sandwiches and salads in a bicycle shop. Coming soon to the former home of Salsa South Beach is Volare, 2300 Frankfort Avenue, Louisville’s first outpost of a popular Chicago restaurant. Mexican restaurant entrepreneur Saul Garcia, associated with the Los Aztecas restaurants, has gone a step upscale with his new Olmecas Gourmet Mexican Grill, 1582 Bardstown Road, featuring Mexican Gulf Coast cuisine in the old Highlands dwelling that once housed Parisian Pantry and was recently home to Haveli Indian. The downscale, but high quality, Rosticeria Luna recently opened at 5213B Preston Highway, featuring first-rate roast chicken and other goodies in a tiny Okolona storefront. Bring your Spanish phrasebook. There’s more… BB’s Chicken & Ribs, 318 Wallace Avenue, vends serious urban barbecue in the middle of St. Matthews. Blue 6
Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
Mule Sports Café, 10301 Taylorsville Road, adds another Jeffersontown option to the city’s list of sports bars. Also in J’town, Edna’s Good Stuff, 9810 Taylorsville Road, is the region’s first Filipino restaurant. Coming soon in St. Matthews, Havana Rumba, 4115 Oechsli Avenue (formerly Fat Bread Bosnian), will feature Cuban fare. And La Petit Patisserie, 1036 E. Burnett Avenue in Germantown, has turned the old Charles Heitzmann bakery into a French pastry shop. Quickly told, other openings include Atomic Saucer, 1000 E. Oak Street; Big Subs, 9811B Old Third Street Road; Double Dragon 8, 231 S. Fifth Street; Jimbo’s BBQ, 801 Kenwood Drive; King’s Buffet, 5538 New Cut Road; Olive’s on Fourth, 570 S. Fourth Street; two locations of Papa Murphy’s Pizza, 291 N. Hubbards Lane and 5016 Mud Lane; and Po-Boy Shoppe, 2286 Bardstown Road.
[ MOVES & CHANGES ] The old Abruzzi drops the Italian accent and goes homestyle American under the same management. It’s now Anchor Inn, 1500 Evergreen Road. Annapurna’s Veggie Place in Plainview retains many of its Indian vegetarian dishes under new management but goes omnivore with meat dishes as well. It’s now Taj India, 9904 Linn Station Road. And Sapporo’s Middletown sushi bar at
12905 Shelbyville Road has been sold; it’s now another branch of Springhurst’s Fuji Japanese Steakhouse. Moving to new locations, Big Hopp’s shifts downtown from the West End, bringing its soul food fare to the Glassworks neighborhood at 800 W. Market Street. Greek Paradise Café, 2113 Frankfort Avenue, comes to Clifton from Butchertown. On the Sunny Side, Babby’s Steakhouse moves up the river from Jeffersonville to 108 S. Fourth Street in suburban Utica. A few more local spots shut the doors at these old locations but remain in business elsewhere: Babylon Arabian on Strawberry Lane; Breadworks, 102 Cannons Lane; Ermin’s French Bakery & Cafe, 9213 U.S. 42; Luigi’s, 568 S. Fourth Street; Ponderosa Steakhouse, 5117 Preston Highway; and Sweet Surrender, 211 E. Main Street, New Albany. Meanwhile, about a dozen restaurants have new locations in addition to their original spots: A Nice Restaurant, 2784 Meijer Drive in Jeffersonville; Beef O’Brady’s, 106 Sears Avenue; El Nopal, 10500 Watterson Trail (former Vivarazzi and Jug’s); Firehouse BBQ, 3065 Breckinridge Lane; Highland Coffee, 627 S. Fourth Street; Irish Rover, 117 E. Main Street, LaGrange; McAlister’s, 6508 Bardstown Road; Moe’s Southwest Grill, 1001 Breckinridge Lane; Soupy’s, 4632 S. Hurstbourne Parkway; and Wick’s Pizza, 10966 Dixie Highway.
[ CLOSINGS ] Finally, a moment of silence for restaurants that closed recently. We mourn the closings of Steam, Fire & Ice, 2427 Bardstown Road; Amshoff’s Fish Inn, 8012 Bardstown Road; Andrew’s Restaurant, 2286 Bardstown Road; Galaxy Bistro, 725 W. Main Street; Gilley’s Grill, 3977 S. Seventh Street; Obee’s, 641 S. Fourth Street; Old Walnut Chili Parlor, 333 W. Oak Street; and Pigasus Chop Shop, 2013 Longest Avenue. Fox Hollow Manor House Inn, 8909 Highway 329 in Crestwood, now operates as a private dining room. F&D Do you have information on something we missed? Send it to: firstname.lastname@example.org
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004
By Marty Rosen Photographs by Dan Dry
Ah! A warm, sultry summer evening, the stands well-filled with fans, the home team still in contention. The beer-hawker is working his way up the steps—“Hey! Getchyer cold beer! Hey! Getchyer cold beer here!” You beckon for a couple of frosties, secure the foamy beer cup in the seat’s cup holder, and settle back with a tray of sushi, or a vegetarian burrito or a styrofoam bowl of clam chowder. Or maybe a barbecued brisket sandwich, or a couple of deep-fried Rocky Mountain oysters (a manly repast!) or a crisp pierogie. Yes, you are attending a baseball game. But where are the Coney dogs and brats, the peanuts and Cracker Jack? You can still find the standards at the concession stand, but baseball stadium food purveyors are branching out, responding to the upscale tastes of today’s fans. Come with us to explore the expanding menus found at major and minor league ballparks around the country.
aseball has its share of controversies: bat corking, steroids, Pete Rose, the designated hitter, revenue sharing and the like. But last spring, it was a menu change that roiled Yankee Stadium, aroused the ire of traditionalists, and attracted attention from baseball pundits around the world. Specifically, Frito-Lay decided to replace the waxy box in which Cracker Jack had been sold for a century with a plastic bag. The management at Yankee Stadium cried foul, and ejected
Cracker Jack from the arena, replacing it with an item called Crunch ’n Munch. Never mind that Frito-Lay, which bought Cracker Jack in 1997, could be construed as the culprit here, or that a package of Crunch ‘n Munch doesn’t include a prize (let’s face it, the Cracker Jack prizes haven’t exactly been collectible the last decade or so). For baseball fans, dumping Cracker Jack was tantamount to doing away with the seventh inning stretch or allowing major leaguers to use aluminum bats. So the fans at Yankee Stadium gave this plan a
A team of hotdogs and sausages
rowdy Bronx cheer, and in June, after an enormous fan outcry, Cracker Jack was returned to its rightful place (though not its rightful price: in major league parks, it’s not unusual to pay five or six bucks for a box of Cracker Jack). The Cracker Jack controversy was a powerful lesson about the symbolic importance of ballpark food (not to mention being an interesting lesson in the power of branding). For Americans—and for inter national tourists visiting the United States—ballpark food goes to the very essence of our “foodways”: beer, hot dogs, peanuts and Cracker Jack have furnished the culinary backdrop for ballgames for a century, and, overpriced or not, nearly everyone feels young at heart when slathering yellow mustard, onions and relish on a steamed dog, and devouring it while watching the boys of summer. In some parts of the country, those core traditions are driving forces. In Los Angeles, for instance, home of the Dodger Dog, 1.6 million hot dogs are sold each season. Wrigley Field and Yankee Stadium aren’t far behind, selling 1.5 and 1.3 million dogs respectively. And of course those Chicago dogs have to reflect local dog culture, so in Wrigley, that means tomato, neon-green relish, yellow mustard, celery salt and cucumbers and a seeded bun (with absolutely no ketchup). And the hottest spot for inter-league wiener rivalries may be Chicago, where escalating dog wars have reached the point where U.S. Cellular Field, home of the Chicago White Sox, now offers no fewer than eight different kinds of sausages. In the park’s upscale Stadium Club, diners can go beyond dogs, choosing from a menu that includes calamari, dim sum and wok-seared garlic prawns. New York City is much the same: Shea and Yankee stadiums battle over whose dog will reign supreme. Shea serves up Hebrew Nationals, Strikly Kosher dogs and all-beef Kahn’s wieners. George Steinbrenner isn’t to be outdone, though: his customers dine on Glatt kosher dogs, Hebrew Nationals, and the legendary Nathan’s hot dogs, revered for their natural casings and toothsome bite.
Looking beyond the expected hot dog culture at ball parks, we find that idiosyncratic regional food traditions result in concession stand specialties that vary considerably from, say, Texas, to the Midwest to New England. Catch the Texas League San Antonio Missions, for instance, and you may be chowing down on a chililaden burrito; at Slugger Field in Louisville, you’ll find fried bologna sizzling on the grill; at Boston’s Fenway Park, you can dine on chowder from the famous local Legal Seafood restaurants. In Cleveland, the offerings include potato and cheese dumplings; in Montreal, French-Canadian culture is represented by artery-clogging poutine, French fries sprinkled with cheese curd and smothered in gravy. San Francisco’s SBC Park has long been noted for its more aromatic (and presumably somewhat lighter) garlic fries. Slugger Field is also home to a trove of other traditional goodies: nachos, soft pretzels, elephant ears sprinkled with generous quantities of sugar, and of course the ubiquitous Cracker Jack. In recent years, though, those traditional and regional favorites have been supplemented as ballparks around the country upped the culinary ante with offerings geared to increasingly sophisticated palates. That’s not surprising in cities like San Francisco or Seattle, but even in the heartland the menu is shifting. In Pittsburgh, the Pirates have been vending sushi and Caesar salads for years. Even minor league parks are part of this trend. Fans at Slugger Field, for instance, can opt not only for traditional ballpark fare, they can also find, not at the game itself, but nestled within the friendly confines of the stadium’s concourse, casual fare and micro-brewed beer at Browning’s. And if they have an appetite for upscale dining, last spring Anoosh Shariat, one of Louisville’s most highly respected chefs, took over the culinary reins at Park Place on Main, another restaurant located on the concourse side of the stadium, where diners can opt for foie gras, lobster mango salad or maple sugar-cured bison accompanied by blackened Hawaiian prawns. Just a few steps away from the crack of the bat diners can find, before or after the game,
A plate of nachos feels right at home near home plate
world-class cuisine, and a wine list that would be quite at home in any major league city. And perhaps the most surprising trend is the increasing availability of vegetarian food. In Milwaukee, for instance, a center of sausage culture, the Brewers have added soy-based veggie dogs to their 2004 menu. But other places go even further. PETA, the animal rights organization, each year gives ballparks a “vegetarian-friendly”
rating. In 2004, Cleveland topped the list, for its assor tment of veggie wraps, pierogies, bean burritos, knishes, vegetarian sushi and the like. The Toronto Blue Jays’ SkyDome was recognized for its vegetarian subs, burgers and hot-dogs, and the Oakland Athletics’ Network Associates Coliseum for its its gourmet Portobello mushroom sandwich. Take a tour of ballpark menu highlights from around the country. (see ballpark menu highlights p. 12)
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004
Arlington, Texas Every little burg in Texas seems to have six or seven smokehouses and barbecue pits, serving up everything from barbecued longhorn and rattlesnake meat to shredded armadillo. In The Ballpark, home of the Rangers, it’s smoked brisket. Atlanta Media entrepreneur Ted Turner raises bison on his Montana ranch that furnishes the meat for Turner Stadium’s bison burgers and bison dogs. Boston The Red Sox may be suffering from the curse of the Bambino, but die-hard fans can take comfort in Legal Seafoods chowder—no substitute for a World Series, but sweet consolation nonetheless. Chicago In addition to the dogs, the White Sox cater to their burgeoning Latino fan base with a Mexican cantina in the outfield. Cincinnati Like barbecue, chili comes in a multitude of regional variations. In Cincinnati, chili spices are influenced by Greek traditions, creating a distinctive style that’s immediately recognizable to any aficionado. Skyline Chili is one of the principal proponents of the Cincy-style, and the
not-so-humbly-named Great American Ballpark, home of the Reds, dishes up Skyline’s cheese coneys to thousands of fans: it’s a dog on a steamed bun, slathered with chili, mustard, diced onions and shredded cheddar cheese. Cleveland Pierogies are the highlight at Jacobs Field, home of the Cleveland Indians. And where most parks offer nothing but bright yellow mustard, Jacobs Field has long offered up a pungent brown mustard called Bertman’s Ballpark Mustard. (Art Modell has long been reviled by Cleveland fans not only for moving the Browns to Baltimore, but for replacing Bertman’s with a different brand of mustard.) Denver Coors Field is a ballpark in more ways than one; it may be the only stadium in the country that includes Rocky Mountain oysters on the menu. Detroit The fastest way to get a food fight started in Detroit is to start talking about Coney Islands (chili dogs in the rest of America). At Comerica Park, home of the Tigers, the Coneys come from a Leo’s Coney Island stand. Houston In 2000, the Houston Astros moved from the Astrodome to Minute Maid Park, a place with real grass and actual sunlight.
Skyline Chili’s Cheese Coneys served up at Cincinnati’s Great American Ballpark
12 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
The famous Dodger Dog
But you don’t have to restrict yourself to juice: check out Sheriff Blaylock’s Chili Parlor or barbecue from Maverick’s Smoke House.
columnist Roger Baylor will beg to differ, can anyone deny that the home of the Brewers is the epicenter of the American beer business, if not beer culture?
Kansas Food pundit and political poet Calvin Trillin popularized Kansas City as a barbecue mecca a couple of decades ago, so it’s no surprise that in the home of big band swing, the Royals’ Kauffman Stadium serves up nationally renowned Gates Barbecue.
Montreal The Expos announcers call the balls and strikes in French, of course, and Olympic Stadium, in addition to poutine, offers the famous Montreal viande fumé (smoked meat), which will knock the socks off anyone who’s gotten weary of mediocre corned beef and pastrami.
Los Angeles Tommy Lasorda didn’t ruin his girlish figure on sushi and Caesar salads, more likely it was the famous (some might say infamous) Dodger Dog, always cooked on a grill, never subjected to the nefarious steam and water most baseball dogs are heir to.
Philadelphia At the Phillies’ brand new Citizens Bank Park, which just opened for the 2004 season, you can find several varieties of cheesesteak, including one made by the justly renowned Geno’s; look closely, and you might even find some scrapple.
Miami Pro Player Stadium, home of the Florida Marlins, is smack dab in the middle of expat Cuban culture, so it’s not surprising that the drink offerings include Cuban Coffee, a high-impact brew that will give you a definite case of the seventh inning jitters. And Pro Player also offers Cuba’s signature dish, the Cuban sandwich of roast pork, cheese, pickles and ever-socrusty bread. Milwaukee It’s sausage here—brats with red sauce. And though Food & Dining Magazine beer
Pittsburgh At Pittsburgh’s PNC Park, home of the Pirates, the cheesesteak comes with a layer of coleslaw. If you prefer, Benkovitz’s fish sandwiches, a long-time local favorite, are also available in the park. San Diego PETCO Park, home of the Padres, is noted for selling some fine fish tacos. And if you need something heftier, former Padres pitcher Randy Jones has a barbecue stand in the park. (continued p. 14)
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 13
Elephant ear sprinkled with powdered sugar
At Louisville’s Slugger Field, home of the Cincinnati Reds Triple-A affiliate Louisville Bats, local fans can find usual ballpark fare alongside local traditions and just steps away from fine dining.
(opposite page) an inspired creation by Park Place Restaurant’s chef de cuisine, Allan Rosenberg: maple sugar-cured Kentucky bison and blackened Hawaiian prawns with asparagus, carrots and sunburst squash
Slugger Field’s signature fried bologna sandwich
CORK 101 Uncork or Unscrew? By Robin Garr
You’re dining at a fancy restaurant and you order a fancy vintage wine. The sommelier brandishes a golden “church key” on a velvet neck ribbon and, with a genteel flourish, pops its beer-bottle-style cap. Or perhaps you’ve ordered a case of a noted Cabernet to mature in your cellar. When your treasure arrives, you open the crate to find a dozen bottles plugged with plastic or secured with metal screw-caps, the traditional hallmark of cheap, “brown bag” wines. Don’t laugh! The sudden ascent of cork’s competitors ranks among the most significant—and unexpected—wine trends of the past decade. As recently as five years ago, the synthetic (plastic) cork was still a novelty, and the notion of putting metal screw caps or beer-style “crown caps” on fine wine was akin to science fiction. What a difference a few years makes! Spurred by a crescendo of consumer disgust with spoilage by the musty “taint” that accompanies a significant percentage of treebark corks, the industry is embracing alternatives apace. The trend is accelerating especially in Australia and New Zealand—but also in the United States and even winetraditional Europe. Corks have been the traditional wine-bottle closure for about 300 years, and when they work well, they make about as good a stopper as anyone has invented. The cork is so enshrined in tradition that most of us chuckle at the very idea of a quality wine closed with threaded metal or a beer or jug-wine cap. But the wine industry isn’t laughing. Here’s why: Natural cork all too often carries a fungus called 2,4,6trichloroanisole (TCA). If you’ve ever tasted a wine with a dank, moldy odor reminiscent of wet cardboard, a damp basement or mushrooms, that’s TCA—and the spoilage is said to be “corked.” By some estimates, as many as one in 20 bottles of wine is tainted by the TCA fungus. Some wineries have reduced the incidence of “corkiness” by using expensive corks that undergo intense pre-inspection. Even then, however, some defective corks get through, resulting in a failure rate that many wine consumers consider unacceptable. During the last couple of years, high-tech screw caps (heavy-duty metal closures that resemble the foil or plastic “capsule” that shields the
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
traditional cork) appear to be overtaking synthetics as the alternative wine closure of choice among many producers. It’s going to take a lot of experimentation before the wine industry can be certain that synthetics, crown caps and screw tops have the durability to protect pricey, collectible wines through long-term storage. Likewise, it’s going to take a lot of marketing before we wine lovers surrender our attachment to the traditional cork. Nevertheless it’s a fair bet that the old-fashioned cork will eventually go the way of the LP phonograph record. Interested in trying a wine with an alternative closure? Two screw-cap brands currently available on local wine lists are the excellent Kim Crawford 2003 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in New Zealand, and the hearty Bonny Doon 2002 “Ca’ del Solo” Big House Red from California. For a beer-bottle-style crown cap, look for Mionetto “Il” Prosecco del Veneto, a dry, refreshing, sparkling wine from Italy. F&D
VISIT ROBIN’S WEBSITE AT LOUISVILLEHOTBYTES.COM, LOUISVILLE’S TOP ONLINE SOURCE FOR INDEPENDENT, UNBIASED RESTAURANT REVIEWS.
16 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
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BOURBON Deconstructed & Demystified By Jerry Slatter
I haven’t been aging in a barrel, so I know what some longtime Louisvillians are saying as they leer at the title of this column: “not another article on bourbon.” Well, Mr. and Ms. Jaded, sometimes you have to get back to basics. Believe it or not, you may have acquaintances—even friends—who lack expertise on limestone water and charred white oak. (Friends, play it cool and finish the article when no one is looking.) Among the Bourbon Country newcomers, who’ve migrated from every direction, Northerners generally know less about bourbon. Some people were too busy guzzling beer in college or got fixated amid the misguided trendiness of Scotch, without first understanding and appreciating their native spirit. Others cling to preconceived notions about the “class” of bourbon. Replace that mental image of a shot and a beer with a brandy snifter—or better yet, Austrian crystal scientifically designed to highlight the liquor’s best qualities. (Wineglass maker Riedel now makes a bourbon glass.) I would argue the range and depth of America’s unique distillate rivals that of any peat- and iodine-smelling Glensomething—and elicits more satisfaction than harder-to-pronounce French cognacs. I have nothing against these spirits. Let’s face it; they’re not Canadian—but first things first.
things about bourbon
The first rule (as defined by Congress) is that bourbon must be made in America. I note this requirement up front to debunk the myth that bourbon must be made in Kentucky. That fallacy is pervasive and sacred. My attempt to correct it once enraged a group of little old ladies who would defend the Commonwealth against any dishonor. But it’s no shame that our signature liquor is a hit. Almost all bourbons are made here in our beautiful state, but Virginia Gentleman and the nowextinct A. H. Hirsch from Pennsylvania are just two examples of fine, non-Bluegrass bourbons.
Corn is the next important factor. The law mandates that bourbon be at least 51 percent corn-based. Some brands tout the nuances in the percent of rye or wheat added to their mash, but without a majority share of corn (and some malted barley to get it going), it is not bourbon. This is not to say there aren’t some great whiskeys out there that do not tip that scale. The Van Winkle 13-year-old rye (more than 51 percent rye) is a classic example, but the standard for corn in the mash mix is much closer to the 70 percent range.
For now, we’ll leave distilling proofs and aging minimums to the master distillers. The last major rule of bourbon making is all 18 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
about the barrel. As bourbon comes off out of the still, it is a clear alcohol similar in appearance to vodka with an almost sweet corn smell. To achieve that amber glow and warm caramel nose, the distillate, called “new spirit” or “white dog,” is placed in virgin, charred white oak barrels. Through balmy Kentucky summers and frigid Bluegrass winters, the liquid expands and contracts in the wood of the barrel, picking up flavors and color along the way. What emerges anywhere from four to 23 years later, depending on the distillery and particular brand, is the rich brown liquor whose long history has accented the horse racing industry and inspired writers like William Faulkner.
So, after putting a clear liquid made of at least 51 percent corn in a never-before-used, charred oak barrel (all made in the USA), you have bourbon. (There are some finer details to the craft, but you get the point.) You also might be thinking, with rules such as these, that all bourbons might taste the same. Nothing could be further from the truth. At last count, the Kentucky Distillers’ Association Web site (www.kybourbon.com) listed 130 brand names of bourbon. That means if you were to start on New Year’s Day and tried one each night, the Derby would be over before you finished them all. Though they might share characteristics, each has a unique range of nose, taste and finish. If I sound like your buddy the wine geek, be advised that mine is very much the language of whiskey writers as well. “Long legs,” “honeyed nose” and “sweet caramel finish” are terms that define the latest J. Lo video, but similar phrases are used in Whiskey Magazine and The Malt Advocate, which review and rank bourbon along with the other great whiskeys of the world. Therein lies another fine distinction. While similar spirits from America, Scotland, Ireland, France and yes, Canada, are all whiskeys, not all whiskeys can be bourbon. F&D
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National Portrait Gallery, London (third from right in bottom row); all other illustrations the Frazier Historical Arms Museum.
BEER Beyond the Longneck By Roger A. Baylor
Before Budweiser’s majestic Clydesdales became the icon of beer advertising, a mere painting reigned as the king of beer marketing. It depicted a man in formal 19th century attire standing amid blinding sunshine by a dusty rural lane, jacket in hand, mopping his brow, perhaps waiting for a stagecoach. It was called “Thirst,” and Denmark’s renowned Tuborg brewery made it the centerpiece of its advertising campaign. A century later, it is regarded a masterpiece of the genre. The essence of Beer Marketing 101 remains the same: summertime heat + powerful thirst = ice cold light lager beer. Only the images have changed. Advertisers have traded the lonesome landscape of the painting for happy models frolicking on volleyball courts, seashores, sports cars and tubs of ice. Today, thirsty dude looks like a lady (who likes guys brandishing beer). Beer Marketing 101 doesn’t work for me. I quench my thirst with water. Only upon complete rehydration do I begin to consider the proper beer for the time, activity, mood and meal. It helps to cultivate a brain for grains. Barley is the main grain that builds beer, but the brewer’s pantry includes other complementary grains, such as rye, oats and wheat. Standing alone, wheat cannot match barley’s utility, depth and range. Rather, wheat is a model role player in brewing. Used in tandem with barley, wheat contributes reliably pleasant, grainy and tart sensations. In Germany (primarily Bavaria), wheat ales are referred to as “Weisse” (white), and “Weizen” (wheat). The prefix “Hefe-” (with yeast) indicates an unfiltered wheat ale, and it is the milky appearance of yeast in suspension that originally inspired its characterization as “white.” The classic wheat ales of Germany are fermented by special yeast strains that work hand in glove with the grain to produce aromas and esters not generally encountered in other beers. German wheat ales are quite expressive in this regard, with flavors and aromas like banana, apple, clove and baking spice arising purely from fermentation. “Dunkel Weizen” signifies a dark wheat ale. Dark barley malts seem to add chewier, bread-like elements to the familiar mix. Among the brands exported to America and usually available locally at our better package stores (Liquor Barn, Party Outlet, Old Mill Wine & Spirits in New Albany) are Franziskaner, Paulaner, Hacker-Pschorr, Weihenstephan and Ayinger, all brewed in or near Munich, Germany. The best of them is Schneider Weisse, brewed near the Danube River in Kelheim. Schneider’s classic wheat ale is tawny amber and reddish hued. When poured into the recommended tall, footed glass, there is a vigorous, frothy head, and mid-range fruitiness bursts onto the palate with a bold effervescence. Spicy, delicate clove notes complete a profound taste sensation. 20 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
PHOTO BY DAN DRY
Schneider’s brewery in Kelheim is dedicated solely to wheat ales, and several delicious variations on the wheat ale theme are brewed and exported. Schneider’s awe-inspiring Aventinus, a dark and strong “wheat double bock,” is incredibly versatile. Drink it with a crunchy Bavarian pork knuckle or as dessert at the end of a long, tiring day. As in Germany, wheat ales brewed in bilingual Belgium are known as white (“Wit” in Dutch, “Blanche” in French). Also sometimes seen on imported labels is the Dutch word for wheat, “Tarwe.” Belgian wheat ales are brewed with unmalted wheat and flavored with coriander, orange peel and other spices. A wellmade Wit exhibits a wee trace of refreshing sourness alongside the prevailing citrus and balancing spice.
Once as ubiquitous a Belgian staple as mussels and fries, Wit came very close to disappearing in the 1960s. It took a single-minded man, Pierre Celis, to singlehandedly revive the style. Celis created the Hoegaarden Wit brand and nurtured it artistically and financially. Approaching retirement, and with Wit re-established in its country of origin, Celis sold out to the Belgian brewing giant Interbrew, which still brews it today. Surprisingly, Celis resurfaced in Austin, Texas, in the early 1990s, giving his name to a microbrewery and its flagship brew. The first Belgian-style wheat ale for legions of aspiring American beer aficionados was Celis White. Triumphant again, Pierre Celis sold his Austin microbrewery to Miller Brewing Company, which unceremoniously euthanized it. Celis returned to Belgium, taking his Wit with him to be brewed there, where it stands with Hoegaarden and the dozens of Wits spawned in the wake of his original creation. Miller peddled the U.S. rights and recipe of Celis White to the Michigan Brewing Company, which today offers yet another revival of a style that simply refuses to die. Other American microbreweries have learned from this saga. Belgian-style wheat is bread and butter for Upland Brewing Company, a microbrewery located in Bloomington, Indiana. Upland Wheat captured a gold medal at the 2002 Great American Beer Festival and is served on draft at Rich O’s Public House and Main Menu Pub & Grill, located a block apart in New Albany. Belgian- and German-style wheat ales, with their various flavor profiles of citrus, banana, apple and cloves, offer numerous creative pairing opportunities with ethnic cuisine, but Louisville’s more exotic ethnic eateries, whether Thai, Indian, Vietnamese or Latin American, typically offer benign international lagers and nothing more. Make it a moveable, multi-cultural feast. Opt for carryout food, hit the porch or patio and applaud the fireflies while sipping a store-bought Weizen or Wit with curries, noodles and seafood tacos. F&D
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By Robin Garr Photographs by Dan Dry
State law requires it. Diners appreciate it. Restaurateurs â€” usually â€” welcome it. Department of Health inspections heighten public awareness and encourage sanitary restaurant management. Follow along with a Department of Health inspector on his rounds to learn what makes for a sanitary, healthful kitchen.
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 23
Wayne Lang works through his inspection checklist, ensuring clean ice, accurate holding temperatures and appropriate dishwasher settings
atch Wayne Lang work and, before long, you’ll wonder whether his are the cleanest hands in town. He rarely passes a sink or soap dispenser without stopping for a quick wash that leaves his hands with a pink, healthy glow. It’s an occupational matter for Lang, a soft-spoken gent who’s been pounding the streets as a city-county restaurant inspector for a quarter of a century. Lang raps on the back doors of food-service establishments, conducting unannounced sanitation inspections on his beat, Louisville’s Bardstown Road and Frankfort Avenue restaurant rows. “Board of Health,” he announces, flashing a ready smile and photo ID, barely gesturing at the “Louisville Metro Health Department” logo above the pocket of his burgundy polo shirt. “State law requires that we inspect restaurants twice a year.” Restaurateurs generally greet Lang with a healthy mix of warmth and trepidation. The information he collects in an hour or so yields an all-but-irreversible rating that must be prominently displayed
24 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
on the restaurant’s storefront as a vivid green “A,” blue “B,” or, for those who fail to meet the inspector’s standards, a bold, accusing red “C.” “I’ve had people come in, see the ‘B’ and turn around and leave,” lamented one local restaurateur who ran into problems in a recent inspection. “It doesn’t happen a lot, but it happens.” The city restaurant-inspection program isn’t intended to crucify restaurateurs but to benefit the industry and the public, said Matt Rhodes, a longtime restaurant inspector who now supervises the city’s inspection program as environmental health coordinator for the Metro Health Department. Rhodes said he and fellow inspectors conceived the idea of the prominent inspection-score display, implemented in December 2002, to heighten public awareness and to encourage healthful, sanitary restaurant management. State law has long required that county health departments inspect foodservice facilities twice a year, Rhodes said, noting that in the 1980s, the old Louisville
Times published the inspection reports, featuring such intriguing small-print details as “rat droppings found” or “toxic substances improperly stored.” The listings, which enthused health inspectors more than restaurateurs, were abandoned after the Bingham family closed the afternoon paper and later sold the remaining daily to Gannett. Seeking another way to keep the public informed, county officials wrote new regulations in 1996, requiring that inspection results be posted. This wasn’t entirely successful, Rhodes said. “The form was nondescript and hard to understand”–and the actual score and letter grade were in small print. Moreover, the law wasn’t explicit about what constituted “prominent” display, so inspection reports (particularly lessthan-favorable ones) would be placed behind a bar or cash register, where consumers couldn’t easily read them. The recent innovation resolves that, requiring that the inspection score be displayed in a standard form, featuring a 41/2-inch-tall, bold letter, large enough to be clearly visible from the street.
Inspector Lang carries a simple set of pocket-size tools in addition to his clipboard and legal-size inspection sheets: • A precision thermometer that reads from zero to 220 F—he calibrates it weekly to ensure that it reads exactly 32 degrees in an ice bath. • A pocket-size Maglite brand flashlight, a sturdy black instrument about the size of a fat fountain pen, for peering into the dark nooks and crannies between stoves and behind refrigerators. • A miniature Canon A60 digital camera to record violations for his reports. • A handful of sterile alcohol swabs in individual foil packets, used to sanitize his tools.
We followed a demonstration inspection at L&N Wine Bar & Bistro, where proprietors Len Stevens and Nancy Richards confidently invited the inspector for an unofficial visit — with a reporter in tow. Lang greets Richards and chats with her for a few minutes before the inspection begins. Then he steps behind the bar and into the kitchen, where he starts by checking the floor for cleanliness, poking his flashlight under appliances, nodding with approval at their shiny condition, free of stains and dust bunnies. Next comes the dishwasher, a hightech appliance with digital readouts and automated cleaning-fluid dispensers. “This has to be working right,” Lang observes, noting that an inoperative
dishwasher is a “critical violation,” a fault that requires closing the restaurant on the spot. In the event of such an unlikely disaster, though, L&N also boasts a shiny three-compartment sink with separate bins for washing, sanitizing and rinsing. “That’s a great backup,” Lang explained. “If you can’t use the dishwasher, it will keep you open. If there’s no threecompartment sink—and a lot of places don’t have ‘em—there’s no backup.” He looks underneath to ensure that the grease trap is in good working order. This device passes drain water through a series of “baffles” that collect grease and oil for separate disposal, keeping them out of the sewer system. Then he checks the sink to ensure that there’s no “backflow,” which occurs when a spray
Lang checks nooks and crannies for thorough cleanliness
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 25
hose drops into dishwater and dirty water flows back into the clean water system. A problem here would prompt a failing “C” score and the immediate closure of the restaurant. It all comes down to one simple premise, Lang says: “All we want is to keep people from getting ill.” The inspection program has just nine full-time inspectors to cover the entire county. Eight are assigned to specific geographical areas, with a “rover” to cover on sick days, vacations and special assignments. The county lists about 3,600 facilities subject to inspection, including about 2,700 restaurants plus other public foodservice operations that range from grocery delis to day care centers, school cafeterias and nursing homes.
Lang notes a well-designed and maintained clean-up area
The state requires that all be inspected twice annually. Inspectors also check out some 1,200 individual complaints per year, responding to citizen complaints; and they inspect about 700 short-term food-service vendors such as those at the Kentucky State Fair. This bottom line is that most inspectors scrutinize five or six sites per day. Independent inspectors working with merchants in a private setting, where the inspector’s decision can make or break a business, might seem ripe for a corrupt solicitation, but that’s not much of an issue in the real world, Rhodes says. “My inspectors are professionals, and keeping their jobs and their retirement is more important to them than that.” Overt bribe offers are rare, he says, although relatively subtle hints along the lines of “what would it take to get rid of
this?” are not unknown. Inspectors don’t have arrest authority but are told to make a formal record of suspicious offers in their inspection notes. Lang turns on hot water and runs his hands through the stream to check its temperature (no thermometer is needed for this rough evaluation) and peers at the dishwasher’s digital readout to ensure that it’s above the required 180 F. Moving quickly through the kitchen, he ensures that washed pots, pans and kitchenware are airdried only. (Dishcloths and hand towels are verboten in a restaurant kitchen, as just one swipe on a clean pot with a dirty towel defeats all the work of washing it.) He aims his flashlight up to check the ceiling and spots a missing overhead panel, removed to do electrical
work. Normally a missing panel is a violation because dirt and foreign matter can fall through from above, but necessary maintenance is an exception. “You have to be flexible and use a little common sense,” he says. Clean, well-organized walk-in refrigerators and freezers with visible thermometers win his approval. Kitchen workers have carefully avoided the most common refrigerator violation, parking raw meat or produce above other foodstuffs, which might be contaminated by leakage. He notes a few water spots on ceiling tiles, a non-inspection item that he’ll call to management’s attention but that costs no points; it’s no surprise to see this in an older building after the stormy days of May and early June. It’s not terribly difficult for a competent restaurant operation to earn “A” scores consistently, Rhodes and Lang said. Under the previous system, a 96-point score was required for the “A,” but—perhaps in a tradeoff for the more prominent public disclosure—the 2002 changes reduced the minimum requirement to 93 points. In practice, Rhodes said, about 85 percent of all inspections result in an “A.” There are a few “gotchas,” though. A critical violation, even if corrected on the spot, precludes an “A” for that inspection no matter how high the point score. And a restaurant that consistently fails on the first try may be limited to a “B” upon reinspection, regardless of its score. How should consumers view a restaurant’s score? A “B” isn’t much to be concerned about, Rhodes said. “‘B’ is a passing score (reflecting 85 to 92 points). If you go to a restaurant and wonder about that ‘B,’ I’d ask the restaurateur what led to the ‘B.’ Truly, I’d choose an ‘A’ over a ‘B’ if the restaurants were next door to each other… but a ‘B’ is a passing score.” However, he said, “‘C’ is a failing score [that reflects] enough minor violations to score below 85 percent or critical violations that can’t be immediately corrected. ‘C’ can require reinspection—we’ll come back and do another inspection within 10 days.” A kitchen shelf is loaded with bottles—cooking wines and liquors, salt, baking soda, jars of black and white pepper, a big jar of bay leaves. Lang takes a quick but thorough look to see that no cleaning materials or toxic items are stored near food, another major no-no. Peering under a sink, he nods approvingly at the footoperated water faucets, which safeguard against crosscontamination from dirty faucet handles to clean food. “We like that,” he said. “It’s not required by the law, but it’s above and beyond. We think that’s good, and so should their customers.” But he casts a slight frown toward a white plastic cutting board with crisscrossing knife cuts, concerned because deep slits are difficult to clean. “This is going to need replacement or
The Clean Cop cleans up after another inspection
refurbishing pretty soon,” he says. It’s an issue that won’t cost inspection points but will be included in his informal recommendations to management. Moving quickly past a set of stoves and ranges, he pulls out every drawer and looks inside. He flashes his light up into the vent hoods to see they’re free of grease buildup. A little spillage under a gas grill is not a concern. “It’s a working kitchen. This is clean!” Ditto for an ice machine, wherein he aims his Maglite to check for mold and mutters, “Ice is food. We treat it just like a hamburger or french fry.” A soft-drink dispenser gets a similar thorough going-over. “This is immaculate… they do a great job.” In one rare criticism of the new program, a few restaurateurs who barely missed the “A” point out that the department’s willingness to reinspect promptly after a failing “C” score but not a “B” seems less than fair to establishments graded “B” for technical reasons, because the latter must live with the public display of a second-rate score for six months, while failures are erased almost immediately. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 27
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Mark and Gena Wagner, coowners of Louisville’s Come Back Inn, agreed to discuss their situation after recently receiving their first “B” rating after 71/2 years of straight “A”s. “We received a ‘B’ rating for our ‘blatantly blue’ spray bottles of window cleaner not being labeled and for a broken door handle on one of our coolers—which didn’t prevent the door from functioning properly,” Gena Wagner said. “Everything was fixed immediately, yet we’re stuck with this sign. Not one thing we were cited for had anything to do with food safety, yet it makes us look bad.” Her husband Mark picked up the story. “On our recent review, one of my guys didn’t have a hat on. We got clipped for that. I understand and appreciate legitimate concerns like that, but some of our violations weren’t related to food safety. On the walk-in cooler, the door handle itself was broken. Not the latching or closing mechanism, but the thing you pull on to unlatch the door. I explained to the inspector that the part was on order. It wasn’t something I’m neglecting, but it resulted in a serious deficiency.” Adding insult to injury, he said, the part was delivered by UPS an hour after the inspector left. “I called the inspector back and said, ‘Hey look, I recognize these problems and worked to get them corrected as quickly as could be. Is there any way to have you come and reinspect, appeal this or whatever? They said absolutely no, I don’t get a chance for reinspection until they come back for the regular inspection in six months. “I’m kind of stuck with it,” he said. “You can correct a ‘C’ but not a ‘B,’ ” Mark Wagner added. “It doesn’t seem to work the way you’d like it to.” Stacey Roof, president and CEO of the Kentucky Restaurant Association, based in Anchorage, said she wasn’t familiar enough with this specific problem to comment on it. But she said health officials approached the association and discussed the regulation before imple-
menting it, and that the association’s restaurateur members are on board. “Our members feel like it’s a good benefit to the dining public, and they support it,” she said. “It holds you to a higher standard, and if you don’t think you’re where you need to be, it gives you a reason to improve.” That is exactly what the department had in mind, Rhodes said. “We didn’t intend the system to penalize restaurateurs but to be a motivation. Most are doing a very good job. Many score from 90 to 100. I can honestly say that a very large percentage are practicing excellent sanitary practices.” The idea of requiring prominent public display of the inspection score is innovative and, apparently, not widely practiced elsewhere. Rhodes said there’s been a surprising level of interest from health authorities around the country, with requests for information about the program coming from Texas, Washington state and Florida as well as more nearby jurisdictions in Kentucky and Southern Indiana.
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“It’s a very interesting job,” said Lang, wrapping up his inspection at L&N. “You walk in and never know quite what to expect,” he added, recalling with a laugh the story of an inspector who found a walk-in refrigerator locked from inside… where an errant couple were engaged in a presumably romantic encounter. “People ask me how I tell if a restaurant is clean,” he said. “I say, ‘Look at the bathrooms. If they can’t keep them clean, it probably won’t be any better back in the kitchen.’” L&N’s stylish restrooms predictably elicited Lang’s sought-after smile of approval. “Some restaurant people just don’t want us in the place. They see us as adversaries,”Lang said. “But we want people to feel like we all want the same thing: We’re really here to work with people. Personal conflicts are going to happen, but all we can do is be fair.” F&D (see ABC’s p. 30) www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 29
The ABC’s of the
By Ron Mikulak
A B C ’s Every food-service facility starts with 100 points, broken down into a range of categories: condition of food and storage of perishables, health and hygiene of kitchen personnel, control of vermin and condition of plumbing and sewage disposal. The inspector deducts points for every problem or violation of regulations. The two-column checklist is thorough and detailed. Some problems are relatively trivial, such as mislabelled containers or lack of hair restraints, and merit only a single-point penalty. Others, including food prep areas not fully cleaned and free of abrasives or excessive handling of food, are worth two penalty points. Thus two or three minor faults will not disallow an “A” rating. But several aspects of food safety are deemed so essential that failure to comply with any one will automatically pull a kitchen into the “B” range; too many failures will warrant a “C.” These are the things a kitchen must be meticulous about, the critical violations that normally not only preclude an “A” grade but may, if not promptly corrected, require closing the restaurant.
Food The source and condition of all food in the kitchen must be sanitary. All spoiled food must be promptly discarded. Even potentially spoiled food—things left out of the cooler too long or not promptly cooled after cooking—must be discarded and not served or re-served.
Freezers and coolers Freezers and coolers where perishables are stored must work properly, with accurate thermostats and clearly visible thermometer readouts. The handles and hinges and other external hardware must be in working order. The racks and shelving inside coolers must be designed and used to prevent potential cross-contamination of food, such as raw meat juices leaking onto fruits or vegetables.
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Everyone working in the kitchen must be instructed in and held to high standards of hygiene. Their clothing and headwear must be clean and appropriate. They must wash their hands frequently and use paper towels for drying. No one with contagious infections is permitted to handle food.
Water, plumbing, waste disposal Sinks and dishwashers must be clean and operating properly. Water must be under proper pressure, and water temperature must be high enough for full sanitation. All water sources must be plumbed properly; all sewage and waste disposal must be properly designed and in working order. Any instance of cross-connection of water and disposal pipes or any backflow of water onto clean dishware or utensils may singularly exclude an “A.”
Toxic substances and vermin Every effort must be made to prevent entrance of rodents or insects into the kitchen. No live animals (especially birds and turtles, which can carry diseases communicable to humans) are permitted in the kitchen. All toxic materials and cleaning products including bleach must be clearly labeled, stored away from food and properly used. It’s a long but logical list, a set of practices that even home kitchens should follow. The point is not to penalize food-service facilities, but to instill confidence in the dining public.
30 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
[ owners ]
Miguel and Maggie de la Torre de la torre’s 1606 bardstown road 456.4955 Amid Louisville’s culturally diverse culinary landscape, De la Torre’s stands perhaps as the most unlikely restaurant. Most ethnic eateries—Thai, Indian, Middle Eastern, South and Central American and Eastern European—have proliferated, during the past generation, in tandem with the region’s immigrant communities. De la Torre’s grew the hard way—without an abundance of native patrons. The Spanish restaurant is rooted not in the Spanish-speaking nations of the Americas but in the European traditions of Iberian peninsula. And while Spanish restaurants aren’t difficult to find in cities like Chicago and New York, they’re rare in the heartland of
Mere cohabitation can produce enough tangles to choke a marriage. Working together, likewise, can cause couples to butt heads often or severely enough to break each other’s necks—or hearts. So how do husbands and wives manage the inevitable and potentially suffocating stress of living together and running a restaurant? They’re doing it in astonishing abundance right here in Louisville. Among the co-owner couples who spring to mind are L&N Wine Bar’s Len Stevens and Nancy Richards, Lily’s Kathy and Will Cary, Timothy’s Charles and Shayne Zanetis, Churchill’s John and June Roush, Nermana’s Damir and Nermana Pejkusic, Rockwall’s Guy and Joni Sillings, Starving Artist Café & Deli’s Tim and Angie Marshall—and Mark and Susan of Stevens & Stevens. Even lengthier is the list of distinguished couples who, side by side, are abiding two of the most agonizing of all human enterprises: relationships and restaurants. We know the untold stories are no less compelling or poignant than the six we share in this issue.They succeed with ingredients that sweeten what, for many, is a bitter and ruinous recipe. It takes hard work, communication, love, respect, forgiveness and negotiation. And sometimes it’s just wise to relent and say, “Have it your way.” By Marty Rosen Photographs by Dan Dry
32 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
Miguel and Maggie de la Torre, restaurateurs of De la Torre’s
Miguel de la Torre prepares a salmon filet in a saffronscented white wine reduction, served with grilled asparagus and roasted red peppers
America, where a Spanish surname on an exterior sign almost always implies enchiladas inside. The fact that Louisville is home to an authentic Spanish restaurant is largely an accident of fate. Chef Miguel de la Torre, 49, a native of Madrid, grew up in a banking family and didn’t decide to pursue cooking as a profession until he was in his thirties. His wife, Maggie, 50, was born in Charleston, West Virginia, and followed her first husband to England. When that marriage broke up, she moved to Madrid and suddenly found herself in the restaurant business. “I’d never been involved in a restaurant before,” she said. “I was never a struggling waitress in college, or anything like that. But I like people and I had the opportunity and I grabbed it—and I loved it and never looked back.” That first restaurant was an upscale place called Armstrong’s, located near the opera house in Madrid. Maggie and Miguel met through mutual friends, and it wasn’t long before she learned that, in addition to banking, he was a talented chef. “It’s a long day in the restaurant business in Madrid,” she recalled. “I would go home between six and nine in the evening, and then back to the restaurant for dinner. One evening
Miguel was watching my kids for me, and I was rushing home to give them something to eat. When I got there, he had fixed a dinner of duck a l’orange. It was a funny moment—I was trying to be a hero, but I suddenly realized that I didn’t have to worry too much when this guy was taking care of my kids.” That was during the middle 80s, and Miguel was struggling to decide whether to remain in banking. “When I was a very small age,” he said in the mellow accent of his Castilian heritage, “I started helping in the family with the cooking. In my thirties I had to decide whether to follow the banking or the cooking, and I decided to follow the cooking because I consider it more like an art, with the color and flavor and everything.” With three children between them, the couple faced a dilemma: whether to open a restaurant in Madrid or the United States. They decided to give Louisville a try. “I had lived there for a couple of years when I was younger,” said Maggie. “And I knew it was a very nice city.” So in 1987, the pair settled in Louisville, found a location and spent a year putting it together. “We had a shared vision,” said Maggie. “We were trying to
bring Spain here, to make the experience as authentic as possible, so people could experience Spain without buying a plane ticket and going over there. We had a very clear-cut notion of what we need to do in terms of how it should look and feel.” That shared vision has meant less conflict, Maggie said. “Sometimes there’s an adversarial relationship between the kitchen and the front of the house,” she said. “But we’re both trying to do the best thing for the restaurant, so we keep that to a minimum.” Their occasional upsets usually stem from special orders. Spanish cuisine is relatively unfamiliar; thus customers will sometimes request things that run counter to Miguel’s culinary standards. “Sometimes a customer will ask for paella with hot sauce,” Maggie said. “We’ve had people ask for ketchup or things that we don’t have. As the front of the house, you want to make the customer happy at all costs. But if the chef knows that something will ruin the dish, he doesn’t want to do that. There’s a lot of pride. Miguel is very accommodating about dietary needs and if someone wants ketchup, he’ll make a tomato sauce—but it’s not ketchup.” For Miguel, any conflicts between the kitchen and the front of the house www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 33
merely melt in the face of a more important reality. “We just love each other so much that those things don’t matter,” he said. “This is true, you know. But also, we have from the day one, one policy. I take care of the kitchen, making the plates, creating the food—and Maggie takes care of all the orientation in the dining room, and takes care of the people.” Maggie also ensures that Miguel understands where American tastes diverge from those of his Spanish homeland. “In all the Mediterranean countries,” said Miguel, “shrimp is served with the head on, because that gives the best flavor. But in the United States, people don’t usually see shrimp with the head, and they say, ‘What is this?’” Once they try it, he continued, they are amazed at the difference. Thus he is now serving shrimp-withtheir-heads in the couple’s new tapas bar, La Bodega. In the restaurant, however, the shrimp is still served American style. When things go wrong, Miguel adopts a philosophical attitude. “Sometimes you’re in the doghouse,” he says, “and sometimes no. But no matter what, we discuss everything. We have worked together so long that we can almost read each other’s minds.”
[ owners ]
Indeed, in a business where the stamp of an individual is one of the key elements of success, it’s a bit of a miracle that three years after Chef Jim’s death, Club Grotto continues to thrive, because its current owners and operators, James and Juanita McKinney, never expected to be in the restaurant business. For them, Club Grotto is very definitely a labor of love. For much of his career, James, 60, a Paris, Kentucky native, sold heavy-duty trucks, tractors and trailers and managed companies, among other roles. Prior to 1996, his only real kitchen experience had come during the early 1960s, when he was an Army mess sergeant, peeling spuds and cleaning up.That experience is far removed from running a sophisticated bistro like Club Grotto, the Bardstown Road restaurant the couple now own and operate. from Juanita, 60, originally Prestonsburg, likewise had never worked in a restaurant—though she had started cooking as child and is, by all accounts, gifted in the kitchen. What drew the couple into the business was their son, Jim McKinney II, who founded Club Grotto and placed his
Jim and Juanita McKinney club grotto 2116 bardstown road 459.5275
There is no single formula for success in the restaurant business, but all fine restaurants share one trait: they manifest the distinct opinions and visions of their creators. Most of these profiles focus on restaurants founded and operated by couples with a common passion for the restaurant business— couples who founded their business together and, from the very beginning, planned to take advantage of their complementary talents and interests. Club Grotto is a different story altogether. It was the creation of Jim McKinney, a single chef with a rigorously personal approach. He started his career waiting tables at Chi-Chi’s and went on to create a hybrid style that blended Southern roots with European influences. By all accounts, McKinney was a charismatic and inspiring chef who made a lasting impression on the staff and customers at Club Grotto.
Proprietors Jim and Juanita McKinney of Club Grotto
Club Grotto offers their lobster bouillabaisse with Littleneck clams and Prince Edward Island mussels
formidable stamp on it before his untimely death of a heart attack at age 32 in January 2001. By then, Club Grotto, which opened in 1993, ranked among the top Louisville restaurants. Chef Jim McKinney (whose resumé included a stint at the prestigious Coach House Restaurant in Lexington) had amassed a superior staff and had given his parents instructions that they never expected to enact. “He always said that if anything happened to him, we were to keep the restaurant open,” recalled Mr. McKinney. “If you’re closed more than a day or two, you start losing customers. So for us there was never a second thought about keeping the restaurant open. He was so passionate about everything in the restaurant—the food, the service, everything—that keeping the restaurant open was our way of keeping his memory alive.” And McKinney had left the restaurant in good shape. “Our executive
chef, Clay Cundiff, was the first person Jim hired for the restaurant,” said Juanita. “And most of the kitchen and serving staff have stayed with us, because the restaurant really does have the feel of being more family than business.” That family atmosphere pervades not only the service, but also the menu. In the early days of the restaurant, even before it had a full-time pastry chef, Juanita helped out with the desserts. Some of her family recipes, including corn pudding, are on the menu alongside such treats as chocolate soufflé, one of Chef Jim’s signature dishes. These days, the couple share in the operation of the restaurant. He handles the accounts and paperwork while she helps with the front of the house operations. But the staff preserves the traditions. “When we hire new servers,” said Mr. McKinney, “the people who’ve been with us for several years train the new people how to do things the Club
Grotto way. It makes for a consistent experience. And the chefs are excellent. They’ve never compromised on the quality of the food.” After 43 years of marriage, said Juanita, “We’re really best friends. We know what the other one is thinking, and this has been a wonderful experience.” Though neither partner had ever dreamed of being in the business, noted Mr. McKinney, Club Grotto is an extension of their family life. “Our house was always the place to eat after people had been boating or golfing or playing softball,” he said. “There was always a crowd cooking and eating, so I guess it gets in your genes.” And Juanita concurs. “Chef Jim’s daughter Andrea is now nine years old,” said Juanita, “and already she’s beginning to develop the same kind of sophisticated palate. Jim loved being in the kitchen with me when he was young, and Andrea’s the same way.”
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 35
[ owners ]
Jim and Toki Huie maido essential japanese 1758 frankfort ave. 894.8775 Several things distinguish Maido Essential Cuisine from Louisville’s other Japanese restaurants. First there’s the menu: this is no sushi bar, but an Izakaya restaurant, the Japanese equivalent of a tapas bar. A fascinating array of dumplings, soups, meat, vegetable and seafood dishes are offered, all rooted in Japan’s authentic home-style cuisine. Next there’s the remarkable list of sake, which includes a selection of premium bottles unseen elsewhere in Louisville. Then there’s a sense of youthful enthusiasm, a passionate advocacy for Japanese food, that seems to pervade the place. And finally there’s a hint of romance. And why not? It was romance of the highest order that brought the owneroperators, Jim and Toki Huie, together.
Jim Huie, 38, a Murray, Kentucky native, came to Louisville as a student (he studied sociology at the University of Louisville) and began working his way through the Louisville restaurant scene, serving at places like Chi-Chi’s and Captain’s Quarters. Later, he would bartend at Bluegrass Brewing Company and Cumberland Brews, but the Maido story begins while he was working at Ditto’s. “It’s kind of crazy,” he said. “I was working at Ditto’s, and this girl came in one night. She was on a date, and someone I knew was with them, so I asked him about her. Later that night, as I was going home, the same couple crossed the street right in front of my car. Two or three days later, I saw the same girl in the Mid-City Mall. “Then, like two days later, I was waiting tables at Ditto’s, and she came in and sat in the bar area. I had the eight tables up front, but I told the bartender to let me pick up that table, and I thought to myself, literally, if I don’t ask this girl out, I may regret it for the rest of my life. “It was pouring down rain, and I had eight tables going, but I ran across the street to the Speedway to buy her a rose.
Jim and Toki Huie of Maido Essential Japanese
Needless to say, they were completely out of flowers—no roses, no anything. So I ran back over to the restaurant, completely dripping wet, sat down next to her and said, ‘I think you’re really beautiful, and I’d like to take you out.’ She said, ‘OK,’ and here we are… That’s how I met Toki.” Toki Huie, 31, had been raised in Osaka, Japan. Her father, Kazumi Masubuchi, began his career bussing tables in a Japanese restaurant and eventually wound up president of a chain of Japanese home-style restaurants that numbers in the hundreds (Toki describes the restaurants as the Japanese equivalent of an Applebee’s). Toki was in the United States to earn a degree in communications from the University of Louisville (after transferring from Lindsey Wilson College in Columbia, Kentucky). Food-wise, the two couldn’t have been further apart. “I’d never eaten Japanese food before I met Toki,” said Jim. “We always tell people that when we met I’d never eaten raw tuna, and Toki had never eaten cooked tuna. And I think she had the advantage—I’ve never eaten cooked tuna that’s as good as raw.”
Like Jim, Toki was working her way through school, preparing sushi at restaurants like Shogun and Sapporo. She was proficient in the ways of Japanese kitchens because she had been reared in a restaurant family. (Her mother’s farming family raised everything from daikon radishes and potatoes to pigs and chickens.) “At my home, my mother was always cooking, and my dad, and my grandmother. So everybody was always cooking, and they always told me to go in the kitchen, so I was always watching how people did things.” When Jim and Toki married in 2000, her family came for the ceremony. “We ordered sushi from a take-out place,” Toki recalled, “and my dad was very disappointed with the quality. He didn’t think it really represented Japanese-style food. In Louisville, people think Japanese food is sushi and tempura, but there’s much more than that. And when we went out to eat at Japanese restaurants, it was very expensive. So we wanted to have affordable food for anybody to come and enjoy the real Japanese food, the homecooking Japanese food.” Mr. Masubuchi was ready to support the couple’s restaurant venture, but he insisted that they prove themselves first. He urged them to start small and see what it would be like to operate a business. And so the pair opened a smallscale sushi-to-go business in the Seafood Connection on Bardstown Road. Beginning in 2001, the couple established a reputation for innovative sushi offerings that introduced unusual textures and flavors. “Jim brings an American per spective that I would never think of,” said Toki. “So we experiment with things like using roasted red pepper in sushi—or roasted garlic.” “A lot of Louisville’s Japanese restaurants are very similar,” said Jim. “A lot of the sushi chefs got their training at Shogun, and they tend to take the same ideas and dishes with them wherever they go. We wanted to be distinctive. I’m not a chef, but I love to think about food, and I like dishes with a lot of flavor, so I’m always suggesting ideas to Toki. A lot of Japanese food is a little bit bland, so I try to find ways to boost the flavor.”
Maido Crab shumai: crab-filled steamed dumplings served with a spinach vinaigrette, hot mustard and chili oil
The couple’s sushi-to-go operation proved successful enough that Mr. Masubuchi authorized them to start looking for a spot, and Maido opened its doors in February 2004. Now Toki and Jim begin their workday at 10:30 a.m. and are typically in the restaurant until 1 a.m. “It can be tough for a husband and wife to work together,” said Toki, “but in Japan lots of small restaurants are operated by couples. We’re just like any other couple, I guess,” she said. Then, with a chuckle, continued, “We argue, and then I get my way.” Jim, still the romantic, said, “It’s not a problem for me to work with Toki,” he said. “I can be around her all day long. But I’m pretty much always out front and she’s pretty much always in the back, so it’s not like we’re working around each other all the time. I can see that if we were cooking next to each other all day long it could be tense. I’m a pretty non-argumentative type of guy, but she’s pretty fiery.” These days the couple sums up their “spare time” activities pretty succinctly: “sleep.”
“I used to be one of those guys that went to concerts or clubs to hear music four or five nights a week,” said Jim. “But I don’t have time for that now. I’ll occasionally go see a movie. And after we close, a few of us will go over to Longshot’s, a tavern in the neighborhood. They have a couple of Ping-Pong tables, and like every Japanese person I’ve ever met, Toki is a great Ping-Pong player.” And though they’re still in the start-up phase at Maido, the couple has big plans. “My father told us that if we only wanted to open one restaurant, he would not support us,” said Toki. “He said that from the beginning we should plan to grow into a chain; so we plan to open a second Maido within five years.” By then, if Jim has his way, Maido will have added a couple of unique elements. “I’d like to open a sake micro-brew operation,” said the veteran of Bluegrass Brewing Company and Cumberland Brews, two local microbreweries. “I think it’s plausible to brew the sake on site. And I’m trying to develop a way to serve draft sake straight from the barrel” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 37
T h e i r o n l i n e p r o fi l e s i n d i c a t e d t h e y we r e b o t h interested in cooking, music and travel. It turns out they were about the chef’s table as compatible as a couple can get. 103 west oak street And compatibility is crucial for a 587.2433 couple each of whom, for the moment anyway, is putting in 80 hours a week. The Chef ’s Table and Old Louisville For Michele, 43, a native of St. Winery has a stately, old-world serenity, Matthews, restaurants have been a lifebut Michele and Bob Brinke, who own and operate the restaurant, got connected the long passion. From the ages of 16 to 19 new-fashioned way: in 2000 they met via she worked in an Arby’s—which wasn’t an internet match-making service. The quite a harbinger of things to come. Then at 20 she took a job in the kitchen couple married in 2002.
[ owners ]
Michele and Bob Brinke
Michele and Bob Brinke, co-owners of The Chef ’s Table
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at Phoenix Hill Tavern. Salmon Wellington from The Chef ’s Table: a filet of Atlantic salmon “Most people don’t baked in puff pastry, served with mint couscous, roasted fresh believe it,” she said with asparagus and red peppers a chuckle, “but at that time they had a really good German chef. We opened up the Roof Garden to fine dining and served dishes like quail with peanut sauce. It was a wonderful experience, and I got bit by the bug.” For five years she worked in the kitchen at Parisian Pantry, then worked stints at Sweet & Savory, several Bardstown Road establishments and The Terrace Restaurant. After a few years as kitchen manager and chef at a retirement home, she took the risky step of becoming a freelance personal chef, taking her skills directly into the homes of her clients where she prepared meals on demand. Before long, Michele ran up against a problem. She couldn’t be in two homes at the same time; thus she couldn’t meet the demand for her personal chef services. The answer was Creative Cuisine, a little consisted more of heavy salivating than Bardstown Road shop where she could heavy lifting. While stationed in Germany, prepare meals for delivery to the homes he worked a part-time job as an omelet of her customers. That idea gradually and crepe chef in a restaurant a few miles expanded into brunches and dinners— from the Czech border. When Bob and Michele met, their and inevitably into the need to expand personal and professional lives blended yet again. Meanwhile, Bob, an Atlanta native, almost immediately. Using Michele’s rich spent his early years traveling—first as an professional experience and Bob’s Army brat, then during a 21-year career in knowledge of wine, they began teaching the Army. Through military travel he’d continuing education courses at the encountered the cuisines of nearly three University of Louisville, introducing dozen countries and 30 states, and those students to cooking techniques, wine and encounters had whetted his imagination. food pairings, etc. In an era when cooking instruction “I’d always dreamed about owning a restaurant,” he said. But as an infantryman, was exploding, they were in the advance drill instructor and teacher, Bob’s guard. And their blend of instructional experience in professional kitchens cooking and performance cooking is at
the heart of the Chef ’s Table concept, which brings chefs to the table and mixes fine dining and teaching. It’s an approach to dining that shatters the traditional boundaries between “front of the house” and “back of the house,” but Bob says they have a simple method of dividing the responsibilities: “I do what she tells me,” he laughs. But laughter notwithstanding, it’s a serious and expensive affair to open a major establishment, and Bob’s business degree (from Troy State University in Alabama) is an asset, though one with limitations. “Nothing I learned in business school really prepared me for the restaurant business,” said Bob. “The numbers are the same no matter what business you’re in, but restaurant people are a different breed.” And people who embrace the grueling schedule the Brinkes are working are a different breed as well.They arrive at the restaurant at 9 a.m. and typically don’t leave until 12 midnight. “We’re together 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and there’s nowhere else I’d rather be,” said Bob. Michele added, “We don’t expect to work this schedule forever, but during the start-up period we really have to.” And by all accounts, their start-up period has been a success. The restaurant has hired new chefs with experience at fine Louisville restaurants like Limestone and Café Metro. Plans call for an international wine and cheese bar to open in July 2004, with the launch of a substantial winery operation later in the year. These days, though, are all about work. Asked about what they do in their spare time, Michele said, in wistful tones, “We used to like to eat out.” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 39
[ owners ]
parlors, Greek diners and fullservice restaurants. After a corporate downsizing left him high and dry in Louisville, he, too, took a job at Zena’s, where he met and began dating Gena—his future wife. “I worked 80 hours a week,” he said, “and saved up my nickels and dimes.” And from the beginning, those nickels and dimes had a single purpose: to open a place that captured the essence of the Italian pubs and eateries of Chicago. Gena may not have planned to get into the business, but she’s the one who stumbled on the venue that would become the Come Back Inn. On a Friday night, she wandered into the tavern that previously occupied the spot, liked the feel of it, and mentioned to the bartender that she planned to return with her then boyfriend. “Come back within eight days,” the bartender told her, “because we’re going out of business.” Her first thought was, “That’s too bad.” Her second thought was, “Well, not really.” The next day, she and Mark did return, looked the place over, began dealing with legal paperwork and—voila! In November 1996 the Come Back Inn
Mark and Gena Wagner come back inn 909 Swan Street 627.1777 It wasn’t Gena Wagner’s youthful dream to own and operate a restaurant, and she’ll tell you that straight up. The Kenosha, Wisconsin, native worked as a bartender at Zena’s Café to earn her way through a degree program in international trade at the University of Louisville This was back when Zena’s was on Market Street, and you needed a shoehorn to pry through the hubbub into the club on Friday and Saturday nights. After graduating, she took a job working with General Electric’s international affiliates in South and Central America and figured she’d live the corporate lifestyle, with reasonable hours, plenty of vacation, fun travel and evenings mostly free. Mark Wagner, on the other hand, did dream of running a restaurant. He grew up in Chicago, working in pizza
opened. Its combination of hearty, fullflavored sandwiches and pasta, low prices and bustling Chicago-style energy immediately transformed it into one of Louisville’s hottest restaurants, a spot that remains a perennial favorite among Louisville diners. Working together is almost second nature for Mark and Gena; both of their parents worked as husband-andwife teams. Mark’s mother and father were small-business consultants and dataprocessing suppliers who worked out of their home. Gena’s father was in the men’s clothing business; her mother operated a farm. But they cooperated. “My parents really pushed the family to work together,” she said. “We just did the things you have to do. At the time it wasn’t always fun—especially when our friends could go out, and we were stuck at home milking goats or helping birth horses. But it really pulled us together, and we’re still a very close family. And let’s face it, after you’ve spent some time mucking stalls nothing else ever seems all that hard to do.” For Mark, working together is the very essence of family: “I couldn’t imagine a business or personal relationship any
Come Back Inn’s Italian beef combo: Italian sausage and marinated roast beef on a hoagie roll topped with hot giardinara
other way,” he said. “I can see there are a lot of people who shouldn’t work together. But the important thing for us is that Gena and I prefer to do very different things. It would drive me absolutely insane to have to do paperwork on a daily basis. Keeping up all the bookkeeping and payroll and banking information would drive me batty in a very short period of time. I prefer to be downstairs interacting with the customers, doing the hiring, training the cooks, doing the recipes, serving some drinks and telling some dirty jokes with the folks. But she likes doing those things, so our day-to-day work doesn’t conflict.” The couple lives upstairs from the restaurant, so they’re never far from their work. From eight in the morning until midnight, or thereabouts, Mark is downstairs dealing with vendors and kitchen prep, while Gena is upstairs taking care of the books and paperwork. “We’re only separated by five feet of elevation,” Mark said. “But we don’t necessarily see each other. Even at night, when Gena’s handling the door and front of the house and I’m working at the bar, we might be only three feet away from each other. But on a busy night, we might only exchange ten words.The key is that we don’t overlap. We each have our own preferences so it’s always worked out; it’s absolutely imperative that I’m not stepping on her or vice versa. If a couple isn’t willing to divide things up and respect what the other is doing, I can see where it could lead to fighting over the small things.” For Gena, the couple’s success stems from one thing: “Courtesy,” she said. “It’s a big word. You just treat each other nicely every day. You say good morning, you say please and thank you, you don’t take each other for granted. That’s a big reason why our relationship works. When we get up in the morning we don’t just grunt at each other, we actually speak to each other and welcome the day.” She continued with a chuckle, “I think the division of responsibility that Mark was talking about is what makes the business profitable, but courtesy is what keeps us from killing each other!”
Mark and Gena Wagner, Come Back Inn proprietors
The business model Mark and Gena follow might not be for everyone, but it inspired their partners in the southern Indiana branch of the Come Back Inn. “They liked the idea of living above the place so much that they bought the place and became our landlords,” Mark said of Jeffersonville’s Chris and London Smith. “Chris does the downstairs operations, and they work together on nights and weekends.” Like other couples in this business, the Wagners work a long schedule that amounts to double shifts every day. But in recent years they reduced their hours by closing on Sundays. “We just couldn’t keep up the pace and maintain the quality,” said Mark. “I’d rather have people disappointed because we’re not open on Sunday than to have them get here and be disappointed because Sunday dinner’s not good.” So these days, the couple spend their weekends relaxing, fishing, doing yard work and boating at a lakeside home they bought a few years ago. But the business family remains a big priority. Said Gena, “The best summer we ever had, Mark and I were working here, and our nephew, my younger sister and my younger brother were working here. It was a great time because we were all related. That’s really the feel of the restaurant. It’s a family place. And when we’re all together, it takes me back to when I was a kid.” (note: The Come Back Inn has a second restaurant in Jeffersonville, Indiana, located at 415 Spring Street, 285-1777.)
[ owners ]
Michael and Siobhan Reidy irish rover 2319 frankfort ave. 899.3544 By Michael L. Jones
Communication and empathy are essential elements of any successful business relationship, but they are especially important if your business partner is also your spouse. Michael Reidy has learned this after more than a decade of operating the Irish Rover with his wife, Siobhan. “You can’t have grudges when it’s a man-and-wife team,” Michael said in his lilting Irish accent. “We have our differences—everybody does—but you know you have to open the store in the morning. When a couple works together and can do it on a consistent basis, it makes you a strong team.” For the Reidys, teamwork involves juggling the two successful restaurant operations while raising two children, a 12year-old son and an 8-year-old daughter. Siobhan Reidy said this merger of professional and personal life yields both advantages and drawbacks. “It’s a seamless combination of work and family,” she said. “The biggest challenge is that you’re together 24/7. But now that we have two restaurants, neither of us is in the same place on any given day. We’re still learning how that is going to work out.” www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 41
Michael said the partnership has worked this long because he views the restaurants as part of their home. “In Ireland they call the pub a poor man’s university because you always learn things you don’t want to know,” he said. “You are always inviting people into your space. It’s literally an extension of your front door.” Michael and Siobhan met in the early 80s at a party in New York City. Siobhan, a Smith College graduate, was working for Scribner’s, the well-known publishing company. Michael said he spotted her across the room and was smitten immediately. They were married in 1986. The couple had originally planned to stay on the East Coast, but frequent visits to the River City led them to relocate to Kentucky. “We started coming to Louisville because her family had moved here,” Michael said. “Her father used to work for the Capital Holding Insurance Company. I just fell in love with the town and we decided to stay. I’ve never regretted the decision. It was Siobhan’s father who suggested I open an Irish pub here.” The idea may sound like a no-brainer (Irish man, Irish pub) except that neither Michael nor Siobhan had any real restaurant experience before opening the Irish Rover. Siobhan did have some limited knowledge of the food industry from a cafeteria job she worked during her summer breaks from school. But Michael had to serve a self-imposed apprenticeship at various local eateries before he was confident enough to go ahead with the pub idea. The original Irish Rover opened in 1993 on Frankfort Avenue. “I had my doubts right up until we opened the door,” Siobhan said. “I’d ask myself, ‘Are these numbers right? Are we going to go broke?’ But we built a hugely loyal customer base
At The Irish Rover, the soy-ginger dressed roasted leek and new potato salad, tossed with red pepper, celery and scallions atop spinach and Bibb lettuce, makes a light summer meal
42 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
Owners of the Irish Rover, Michael and Siobhan Reidy
right from the beginning. We’ve surpassed all of our expectations.” The couple recently opened a second location of the Irish Rover in LaGrange. Despite the success of their initial pub, Siobhan said she had reservations about opening another restaurant. “Having gone through opening a restaurant once, I didn’t know if I wanted to do it again,” she explained. “It’s like having children. You have to walk away for a while and forget about the pain before you want to do it again.” The menu at each Irish Rover restaurant is based on recipes the Reidys collect on their frequent trips to Ireland. Neither of them is a chef per se, but Siobhan said her staff is always able to reproduce the dishes. The Irish Rover has 30 employees at its Clifton location. The LaGrange location has 35, and Siobhan said she expects that number to increase as the restaurant matures. Such a large staff can cause some scheduling headaches, which Michael said he’s glad to let his wife deal with. “I add the personality,” he said. “She brings a tremendous amount of organizational skills to the front of the house. I’m extremely grateful.” Despite all of the chaos and headaches involved in running two Irish Rover locations and raising kids, Michael said he and Siobhan are still having the time of their lives working together. “If it isn’t fun, it isn’t worth doing,” he said. “Why do something this demanding if it doesn’t make you happy?” (note: The Irish Rover has a second restaurant in La Grange, located at 117 E. Main Street, 222-2286.) F&D
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[ menu gems ] Jack Fry’s
Shrimp, Grits & by Ron Mikulak
By Ron Mikulak Photographs by Dan Dry
Here below the “Grits Line,” that great American cultural divide that begins somewhat south of that other great divide known as the Mason-Dixon Line, grits tend to be pigeonholed as a breakfast item. During Derby festivities, cheese grits are ubiquitous at brunches and even dinners. Grits as a dinner menu item, however, have always been uncommon—even a bit audacious. Yet there is no good reason why— especially considering that polenta, its carbohydrate cousin made of yellow corn meal, is commonplace on Italian menus, as a side dish or base for any number of sauces. Using grits instead of rice, potatoes or noodles to fill out a plate is logical, tasty and regionally appropriate. “Where I’m from, in South Carolina,” says Chef Shawn Ward of Jack Fry’s, “grits at any meal are real common. But that isn’t so here. When I first added the dish about seven or eight years ago, no one wanted to try them for the first couple of months. But once people tried them, they really got going. Now it’s among our most popular menu items.” The dish, shrimp and grits with redeye gravy, also is among the recipes most requested by area diners. Chef Ward is happy to share the recipe and preparation with us. Using the best-quality stone-ground grits is essential to the dish. Cooking them with milk and cream, instead of just water, is a bit unusual; that’s what gives these grits an extraordinarily creamy texture. F&D
44 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
To make the grits /2 cup stone-ground grits, such as Weisenberger’s 2 cups milk 1 /2 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 /2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese Salt and pepper 1
Combine milk, butter and cream in a saucepan. Bring to a light simmer; add grits. Reduce heat to low, stir frequently until grits are creamy and begin to thicken (about 10 minutes). Stir in cheese and salt and pepper to taste.
To make the red-eye gravy 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 oz. Kentucky country ham, minced 1 /2 cup shiitake mushrooms, sliced 1 /2 cup onion, peeled and sliced in julienne strips 3 /4 cup green pepper, cut julienne style 1 /4 cup Madeira wine 1 /2 cup brewed coffee 1 cup chicken broth 1 /2 cup diced tomato, drained 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced 1 teaspoon cornstarch mixed well with one teaspoon of water Melt butter in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add ham and brown. Add onions, green peppers, mushrooms and thyme, and sauté until the onion becomes translucent. Pour in Madeira, coffee, chicken broth and tomatoes and bring to a light boil, stirring. Stir in cornstarch slurry. Reduce heat and simmer until it reduces about a third and thickens to the consistency of a sauce or gravy.
1 gather your ingredients
2 combine milk, butter and cream; simmer and add grits
3 add vegetables, Madeira, coffee and broth to browned ham
Final assembly 20 shrimp, peeled and deveined 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Heat one tablespoon butter in a large sauté pan, and cook shrimp until pink. Add red-eye gravy and finish sauce with one tablespoon butter, stirring until melted and incorporated into the gravy. Divide grits among six plates and top with shrimp and gravy. Garnish with grated Reggiano cheese and minced chives.
4 stir in cornstarch slurry and simmer
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 45
[ recipe gems ] Chef Katie Payne’s blue crab and grits cakes with roasted red pepper pesto and green goddess dressing
grits Chef Katie Payne’s chipotle pork tenderloin with grits and garlic custard, sweet and sour mustard greens and sweet pickle relish
By Ron Mikulak Photographs by Dan Dry
Our two guest chefs, Sullivan University instructors Eugene Bell and Katie Payne, were happy to seize our recipe challenge, inspired by this issue’s Menu Gems: Jack Fry’s Shrimp and Grits with RedEye Gravy. Chef Payne grew up with Southern cooking, including grits, in southwest Tennessee’s Copper Hill. “Back then, grits were always a savory breakfast item,” Payne said, “served with lots of butter and salt and pepper. In the last 10 years or so, grits show up more and more on dinner menus. Chefs like to work with grits’ essentially bland taste; they take on seasonings and other flavorings so well.” Chef Bell agreed that the popularity of polenta in contemporary Italian cuisine spurred the use of grits on American restaurant menus. “Polenta and grits are not quite the same. Polenta is just yellow cornmeal. Grits are made from hominy (corn that is soaked in an alkali solution to loosen and remove the husks, then dried and ground). But both give cooks another starch medium. Grits retain moisture better than polenta, and set up well, so a grits loaf can be sliced and fried crispy on the outside.” Bell has worked in restaurants since he was a teen. After working his way from prep cook to chef at
46 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
Chef Eugene Bell’s foie gras with caramelized onion and honey grits with ginger pear chutney
Chef Eugene Bell’s balsamic glazed lamb rack with creamy sun-dried tomato and goat cheese grits, blanched fresh spinach with ginger, and red and yellow pear tomato relish
the City Club in Evansville, Indiana, he served as chef at several country clubs in Ohio and in Lexington, Kentucky and worked with Host Marriott to improve the design of university kitchens. Before coming to Sullivan last year, he ran an upscale catering service in Lexington, providing the food for Kentucky Horse Park events such as last year’s Queen’s Horses exhibit, where Princess Anne was a guest. Payne earned her culinary degree at Sullivan in 1996, worked for two years at the four-diamond rated Inn at Blueberry Hill near Knoxville, Tennessee and then cooked for a season at the Caneel Bay Resort on St. Thomas in the American Virgin Islands. For their F&D recipes, they looked to see what they had in the fridge and pantry. “I liked the idea of pairing the neutral starchiness of the grits against the fatty richness of the foie gras,” Bell explained. “And the tang of the chutney complements both.” Payne’s blue crab cakes made with grits adds a richer mouth-feel than the usual breadcrumbs provide. Their other recipes show how adding a few unexpected ingredients can give an added dimension to an old Southern staple.
Blue Crab and Grits Cakes with Roasted Red Pepper Pesto and Green Goddess Dressing Blue Crab and Grits Cakes SERVES ABOUT 6 Cake ingredients: 1 lb. fresh crabmeat 2 cups stone-ground grits, cooked and cooled 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard 1 tablespoon hot sauce 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped 1 /4 cup pine nuts 2 tablespoons pimentos, diced 11/2 tablespoons capers Breading ingredients: 2 cups flour 3 eggs 4-5 cups breadcrumbs 3 tablespoons water Salt and pepper 1. Cook grits according to package directions, adding 1 tablespoon chopped fresh garlic to the water. Season grits well with salt and pepper. Remove any small pieces of shell that may be in the crabmeat. Mix cake ingredients (but not too vigorously, as a few lumps of grits add a nice texture). Use a scoop or measuring cup to apportion each cake to the size you prefer. 2. Combine eggs and water, mix well and place in shallow bowl. Place flour in a second bowl and breadcrumbs in yet a third. Season each bowl lightly with salt and pepper. 3. Dredge the crab cake in flour. Make sure to
coat it thoroughly and gently knock off excess. Next, place the cake into the eggs and, likewise, coat it completely. Lastly, move the cake to the breadcrumbs and coat thoroughly. 4. Deep-fry the breaded cakes at 350 degrees or pan-fry in olive oil about 1/2 inch deep until golden brown and hot. Serve with green goddess dressing and roasted red-pepper pesto. Garnish with salad greens dressed with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roasted Red Pepper Pesto YIELDS 2/3 CUPS 2 red bell peppers, roasted and roughly chopped 3 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped 1 shallot, diced small 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 1 /4 cup fresh parsley, chopped 7 tablespoons olive oil 1 /4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated Salt and pepper to taste 1. Place all ingredients except Parmesan in bowl of a food processor with cutting blade. 2. Process, scraping sides of bowl as needed, until smooth. 3. Transfer to a small bowl and add Parmesan, salt and pepper. Green Goddess Dressing YIELDS ABOUT 2 QUARTS 1 bunch fresh parsley, stems removed 2 pints mayonnaise 24 ounces sour cream 2 tablespoons garlic, minced www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 47
3-4 tablespoons fresh minced chives 2 tablespoons fresh tarragon 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Salt and pepper Worcestershire sauce 1. Place all ingredients except mayonnaise in food processor and mince. 2. Add mayonnaise and pulse to blend. Season with salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce to taste. Allow to rest 3 hours prior to use.
Chipotle Pork Tenderloin with Grits and Garlic Custard, Sweet and Sour Mustard Greens and Sweet Pickle Relish Chipotle Pork Tenderloin SERVES 4-6 1 pkg. pork tenderloin as purchased 3 cloves fresh garlic, minced 1 can chipotle peppers in adobo Salt and pepper 1. Puree about 1/2 of the can of peppers and mix with garlic. Season the pork with salt and pepper and rub with the chipotle mix. 2. Allow meat to marinate for a couple of hours. 3. Grill tenderloin to internal temperature of 140 degrees. Allow the meat to rest for 15 minutes before slicing.
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Grits and Garlic Custard SERVES ABOUT 10 For the grits: 3 /4 cup stone-ground grits 21/4 cups milk 3 /4 cup cream Salt and pepper to taste For the custard: 3 cups heavy cream 8 eggs 11/2 teaspoon salt 1 /8 teaspoon nutmeg 1 /4 cup fresh, sliced chives 2 tablespoons fresh garlic, minced 1. Mix milk and cream in saucepan and bring just to a simmer. 2. Add grits and stir well. Cook slowly until tender (about 30 minutes). Season to taste with salt and pepper. 3. Combine all ingredients for custard; add grits to custard mixture. 4. Pour mixture into greased ramekins, timbales or soufflé dishes. 5. Bake at 325 degrees in a water bath for 11/2 hours or until set. 6. Serve right from the dish or unmolded, by running the blade of a pairing knife around the sides, turning the dish over and gently tapping the edge until the custard releases. Top with fried leeks. Sweet and Sour Mustard Greens SERVES ABOUT 4 4 bunches mustard greens, washed thoroughly and stems removed 3 slices thick-sliced peppered bacon, julienned
/4 cup honey-Dijon vinaigrette Salt and pepper to taste
1. Chop greens into roughly 1- to 2-inch pieces. 2. Pour approximately 3 tablespoons olive oil or bacon fat into a large skillet. Heat for about 2 minutes. Add bacon to the pan and render over medium heat until bacon is cooked. 3. Add greens and stir. The greens will begin to wilt and will turn bright green. 4. Add the honey-Dijon vinaigrette and salt and pepper to taste. Sweet Pickle Relish with Fried Sweet Potato Garnish YIELDS ABOUT 11/2 CUPS Relish ingredients: 10 sweet gherkins, diced 1/8 inch 11/2 yellow bell pepper, diced 1/8 inch 1 two-inch piece jicama, diced 1/8 inch 1 /2 small cucumber, diced 1/8 inch 1 /2 cup purple cabbage, thinly sliced then diced 1 /3 cup white balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon mirin 1 teaspoon sugar Salt and pepper to taste Garnish ingredients: 2 gaufrette sweet potatoes, peeled Vegetable oil Veal glace 1. Mix all relish ingredients and set aside, to allow the flavors a chance to meld. 2. For the garnish, press a peeled gaufrette sweet potato in a French mandoline to achieve the desired “waffle” pattern. 3. Deep fry around 300-325 degrees. This lower heat will help to achieve a crispy chip without taking on too much color. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Arrange relish with sweet potato chips and a flourish of veal glace. (Note: To make glace from scratch can take as many as 3 days. There are, however, several commercial products that are acceptable for home use. Glace, a veal stock reduction infused with mustard seed, makes a very elegant, rich sauce.)
Foie Gras with Caramelized Onion and Honey Grits with Ginger Pear Chutney Foie Gras SERVES 4 4 two-ounce portions Grade A foie gras 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 /4 cup flour 1 tablespoon corn starch Salt and pepper to taste 2 ounces brandy 1. Mix flour, corn starch, salt and pepper in shallow bowl and set aside. 2. Heat olive oil in medium skillet to the smoke point. Dredge foie gras in dry-ingredient mixture and place in hot skillet. Do not allow portions to touch. Sauté for 30 seconds to one minute per side. 3. Deglaze pan with brandy and cook down to au sec (almost dry) and serve.
Caramelized Onion and Honey Grits SERVES 4 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small white onion, julienned 1 ounce Marsala wine 1 tablespoon honey 2 cups chicken stock 1 /2 cup stone-ground grits Salt and white pepper to taste 1. In heavy 4-quart saucepan, heat oil, add onions and simmer, stirring as little as possible until onions brown all over and soften. 2. Deglaze pan with Marsala and add honey. Simmer until almost all liquid is absorbed. Add chicken stock and stir in grits. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to simmer. Cook grits, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking until tender but still retaining a little “tooth” and almost all liquid is absorbed. 3. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper. (Note: These grits can be piped into shapes.) Serve quickly as the grits will continue to thicken as they sit and cool. Ginger Pear Chutney SERVES 8 2 cups pears, diced 11/4 cups granulated sugar 1 /2 cup sun-dried cherries 2 tablespoons ginger root, grated 1 /2 red bell pepper, diced 1 jalapeño, diced 1 lemon, juice and zest only 1. Combine all ingredients in a deep, nonreactive pot. 2. Bring to a boil over medium heat, turn to low and simmer, 30 minutes or until mixture is syrupy.
Balsamic Glazed Lamb Rack with Creamy Sun-Dried Tomato and Goat Cheese Grits, Blanched Fresh Spinach with Ginger, Red and Yellow Pear Tomato Relish Balsamic Glazed Lamb Rack SERVES 2 1 lamb rack, trimmed and frenched 1 /2 cup Worcestershire sauce 1 cup balsamic vinegar 2 cups red wine 2 garlic cloves, sliced thinly 1 /2 bunch curly parsley, chopped 1. Clean bones of all sinew. Place all ingredients in a non-corrosive container (set aside 4 ounces of balsamic marinade for Red and Yellow Pear Tomato Relish recipe) and add lamb rack, being careful to keep bones out of marinade. Marinate in refrigerator overnight. 2. Remove rack from marinade and grill over medium heat (careful not to char the glaze) until internal temperature reaches 125-130 degrees. 3. Remove from heat, let rest 10 minutes for juices to settle, then cut into 1- or 2-bone chops. Serve with creamy goat cheese grits and red and yellow pear tomato relish.
Creamy Sun-Dried Tomato and Goat Cheese Grits SERVES 4 1 garlic clove, minced 1 shallot, minced 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups chicken stock 1 /2 cup grits, stone-ground 4 sun-dried tomato halves, diced 1 egg, large 1 /2 cup heavy cream 2 ounces Asiago cheese, grated 1 ounce goat cheese, Montrachet 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves, minced 1 /4 teaspoon pink peppercorns, cracked 1 /4 teaspoon green peppercorns, cracked 1 /4 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked 1. Pour oil into 4-quart heavy saucepan and place over low heat. When oil is hot, add garlic and shallots and sweat gently for 1 minute. Add chicken stock and stir in grits and sun-dried tomatoes. 2. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook grits until tender but still with a slight “tooth.” Most of liquid will be absorbed. 3. Turn heat to low. Break egg into a small container and mix with a fork just until thoroughly blended. Working quickly, whisk egg into grits and continue mixing until grits thicken and resemble custard (approximately 1 minute). 4. Remove pan from heat. Add remaining ingredients and stir until all cheese is melted. Serve quickly, as grits will continue to thicken and set as they cool. (Note: Grits can be reheated over low flame with the addition of 23 tablespoons water.) Blanched Fresh Spinach with Ginger SERVES 4 4 cups baby spinach, washed and stemmed 1 teaspoon ginger root, minced or grated Salt and white pepper to taste 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 ounce white wine
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1. Heat oil in sauté pan, add ginger, heat and toss for 10-20 seconds. 2. Add spinach and wine. Season with salt and pepper. (Also used as garnish for Foie Gras with Caramelized Onion and Honey Grits recipe.) Red and Yellow Pear Tomato Relish SERVES 4 1 pint red pear tomatoes, halved lengthwise 1 pint yellow pear tomatoes, halved lengthwise 1 onion, medium, diced 4 garlic cloves, chopped 4 ounces reserved balsamic marinade 3 ounces veal glace 1. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add onion and garlic and sweat until translucent. 2. Add pear tomatoes and simmer for 2 minutes, stirring once or twice. 3. Add reserved marinade and simmer gently for 5 minutes or until reduced by three-fourths. 4. Add veal glace and simmer until sauce begins to thicken slightly. Serve. F&D
Dinner Served Monday thru Thursday 5:30 - 10:00 pm Friday and Saturday 5:30 - 11:00 pm Sunday 5:30 - 9:00 pm Private Dining Room Available Accommodating Parties Up To 60 Guests Reservations (502) 459-5275 2116 Bardstown Road www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 49
dining guide 50 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
ALL RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S).
[ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.
ASIAN/CHINESE ASIAN/JAPANESE ASIAN/KOREAN ASIAN/THAI ASIAN/VIETNAMESE BAR & GRILL BARBECUE BISTROS CAFÉS CAFETERIAS CAJUN/CREOLE CASUAL DINING COFFEE HOUSE DESSERTS/BAKERY ENTERTAINMENT DINING EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN EUROPEAN/ENGLISH EUROPEAN/GERMAN EUROPEAN/GREEK EUROPEAN/IRISH EUROPEAN/ITALIAN FINE DINING HOME STYLE COOKING INDIAN INTERNATIONAL LATIN AMERICAN/MEXICAN MICROBREWERIES MIDDLE EASTERN PIZZA SANDWICH/DELI SEAFOOD STEAKHOUSE UPSCALE CASUAL
72 74 74 75 75 71 70 59 57 67 71 62 81 81 80 75 75 75 75 76 76 54 65 77 77 78 80 80 67 69 59 61 55
PG # MAP # DIRECTION Overview 82 (Index) Downtown 84 1 (Downtown Louisville) Near East 85 2 (Highlands – Crescent Hill) East 86 3 (St. Matthews) South East 87 4 (Hikes Point – Buechel) East 88 5 (Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon) South East 89 6 (Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown) North East 90 7 (River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd.) North East 90 8 (Westport Rd.) Far East 91 9 (Middletown) North East 91 10 (Prospect) South East 91 11 (Fern Creek) South 92 12 (Airport – Okolona) South West 93 13 (Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park) Indiana 94 14 (New Albany – Floyds Knobs) Indiana 95 15 (Clarksville) Indiana 95 16 (Jeffersonville)
PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE
2 Hahn’s Mongolian Grill 211 Clover Lane 610 Magnolia A La Fiesta Bar & Grill A Nice Restaurant Abyssinia Alley Cat Café Allo Spiedo Amazing Grace Deli Amshoff’s Fish Inn Anchor Inn Angilo’s Pizza Angio’s Restaurant Annie Café Annie’s Pizza Ann’s by the River Another Place Anthony’s Anytimes Apple Annie’s Café Applebee’s Appleby’s Café Arirang Arni’s Pizza Aroma Café Artemisia Asian Buffet Asian Pearl Asiatique Atmosphere Atomic Saucer Atrium Café Au Bon Pain August Moon Austin’s Avalon Azalea Babby’s Steakhouse Babylon Backyard BBQ Backyard Burger Bahama Breeze Baja Fresh Mexican Grill Bake’s Barbeque The Bakery Bamboo House Bank Shot Billiards Barbara Lee’s Kitchen Baxter Station Bazos Mexican Grill BB’s Chicken & Ribs Bean Street Café Bearno’s Pizza Beef O’Brady’s Beg for More Café Behar Café Bendoya Sushi Bar Benny B’s Bentley’s Big Hopp’s Big Subs Binky’s of Chicago Blimpie’s Subs Blue Dog Bakery Blue Mule Sports Café Blue Peppermill Café Bluegrass Brewing Co. Bluegrass Café Bombay Int’l. Market Bonefish Grill Bootleg Barbecue Co. Brandon’s Bar-B-Que Bravo! Breadworks Brick Oven Bristol Bar & Grille Browning’s Brewery Buca Di Beppo Buckhead Mountain Grill Buck’s Buffalo Crossing
72 Asian/Chinese 6 54 Fine Dining 3 54 Fine Dining 1 78 Latin Amer/Mex 15 62 Casual Dining 14,16 77 International 3 57 Cafés 9 76 European/Italian 2 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 59 Seafood 11 65 Home Style 9 67 Pizza 13 67 Pizza 4 75 Asian/Vietnamese 12 67 Pizza 1, 13 67 Cafeterias 16 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 62 Casual Dining 7 57 Cafés 4 62 Casual Dining  57 Cafés 16 74 Asian/Korean 4 67 Pizza 14 62 Casual Dining 14 55 Upscale Casual 1 72 Asian/Chinese 14 72 Asian/Chinese 6 55 Upscale Casual 2 71 Bar & Grills 2 81 Coffee House 1 59 Bistro 5 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 72 Asian/Chinese 2 55 Upscale Casual 7 55 Upscale Casual 2 55 Upscale Casual 7 61 Steakhouse 16 80 Middle Eastern 2 70 Barbecue 14 69 Sandwich/Deli 6 77 International 3 78 Latin Amer/Mex 2 70 Barbecue 13 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 72 Asian/Chinese 12 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 65 Home Style 2 59 Bistros 2 78 Latin Amer/Mex 3 70 Barbecue 3 81 Coffee House 14 67 Pizza  62 Casual Dining 3, 8, 9, 12 57 Cafés 12 75 Euro/Bosnian 12 74 Asian/Japanese 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 62 Casual Dining 1 62 Casual Dining 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4, 6 57 Cafés 2 57 Cafés 6 57 Cafés 14 80 Microbreweries 1, 3 57 Cafés 4 77 Indian 2 60 Seafood 5 70 Barbecue 11, 12 70 Barbecue 8 62 Casual Dining 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 76 European/Italian 6 55 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5 80 Microbreweries 1 76 European/Italian 6 63 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12, 16 54 Fine Dining 1 88 Ent. Dining 6
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Buffalo Wild Wings 71 Bull Frog Garden 63 Bulldog Café 57 The Butterfly Garden Café 57 C.A.P.P.P.’s Deli 69 The Café at the Antique Mall 63 Café Chardeau’s 57 Café Emilie 57 Café Fraiche 57 Café J 57 Café Kilimanjaro 77 Café Lou Lou 57 Café Metro 54 Café Mimosa 75 Caffe Classico 81 California Pizza Kitchen 67 Captain’s Quarters 63 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 63 Carolina Seafood 60 Carolyn’s 65 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 76 Caspian Grille 80 Central Park Café 58 Champions Grill 63 Check’s Café 65 Cheddar Box Café 58 Cheddar’s Casual Café 58 The Chef’s Table 55 Chester’s Tavern 55 Chez Seneba African 78 The Chicken House 66 Chicken King 63 Chili’s 63 China Buffet 72 China Garden 72 China Inn 72 China King Palace 72 Chinatown 72 Chinese Chef 72 Chinese Express 72 Chinese Restaurant 72 Chong Garden 72 Chopsticks 72 Chopsticks House 72 Chucks on Baxter 63 Chung King 72 Ciano’s 69 Cici’s 67 City Café 58 City Wok 72 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 70 Clarksville Seafood 60 Cleon’s Rib Shack 70 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Clifton’s Pizza 68 Club Grotto 55 Coach Lamp 55 Coffee Beanery 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Colonnade Cafeteria 67 Come Back Inn 76 Corner Café 55 Cottage Café 66 Cottage Inn 66 Country Kitchen 66 Cravings a la Carte 67 Cribstone Pub 63 Crystal Chinese 72 Cumberland Brews 81 Cunningham’s 63 Cutting Board Café 63 Cyclers Café 58 Damon’s 70 Danish Express 79 Day’s Espresso 81 De La Torre’s 55 Deke’s Marketplace Grill 63 Del Frisco’s 61 Delta Restaurant 71 Derby Café 58 Derby City Café by Dalal 58 Derby Dinner Playhouse 80 Desserts by Helen 81 De-Ville’s 66 Diefenbach Café 58 Dillon’s Steakhouse 61
Bar & Grills 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Casual Dining 11 Cafés 12 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Casual Dining 1 Cafés 16 Cafés 3 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 International 1 Cafés 2 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Coffee House 2 Pizza 5 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Seafood 3 Home Style 13 European/Italian 5 Middle Eastern 12 Cafés 1 Casual Dining 16 Home Style 1 Cafés 3, 9 Cafés 8 Upscale Casual 1 Upscale Casual 12 International 12 Home Style 14 Casual Dining 1 Casual Dining 5 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 11 Asian/Chinese 3, 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Barbecue 1 Coffee House 14 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Coffee House 5 Coffee House 1 Cafeterias 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style 9 Home Style 1 Home Style Cooking 13 Cafeterias 1 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1 Casual Dining 8 Cafés 2 Barbecue 6 Sandwich/Deli 3 Coffee House 1, 2 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 1 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grills 1 Cafés 12 Cafés 4 Ent. Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Home Style 12 Cafés 15 Steakhouse 6
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Dino’s Down to Lunch Ditto’s Grill Dixie Cup Café Dizzy Whizz Drive-In Djuli Dmitri’s Deli D’Nalley’s Restaurant Domino’s Pizza Don Pablos Dooley’s Bagels Double Dragon Double Dragon 8 Double Dragon Buffet Double Dragon II Downtown New Orleans Dragon Garden Dutch’s Tavern Dynasty Buffet Eastern House Edna’s Good Stuff Eggroll King Eggroll Machine El Caporal El Mundo El Nopal El Nopalito El Paraiso El Rey Mexican El Rodeo Mexican El Tarasco Emperor of China Empress of China Encore at Actors Theatre The English Grill Equus Erika’s German Rest. Ermin’s French Bakery Ernesto’s Euro Market Eve’s Sweet Revenge Expressions of You Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que Fast Break Pizza Fat Jimmy’s Federal Hill Feed Bag Deli Ferd Grisanti Fifth Quarter Figaro’s Pizzeria Finley’s BBQ Firehouse BBQ First Wok The Fish House The Fish Hut The Fishery The Fishery Station Flabby’s Schnitzelburg The Flagship Flanigans Ale House Fork in the Road Formosa Chinese Fountain Room Four King’s Café Frank’s Steak House Frolio’s Pizza Fuji Steakhouse Furlong’s Garden Room Café Garrett’s Hickory Grille Gasthaus Gavi’s Restaurant Geli Cakes Genny’s Diner Germantown Café Gerstle’s Place Golden Buddha Golden Corral Golden Wall Goose Creek Diner Gourmet Grazing Grand Buffet Granville Inn Grape Leaf Grapevine Pantry Great American Grill Great Wall
69 Sandwich/Deli 1 63 Casual Dining 2 58 Cafés 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 75 European/Bosnian 12 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 66 Home Style 1 68 Pizza  78 Latin Amer/Mex 5, 15 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5, 7, 9, 14 72 Asian/Chinese 2 72 Asian/Chinese 1 72 Asian/Chinese 5 72 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11 71 Cajun/Creole 1 72 Asian/Chinese 2 71 Bar & Grills 3 72 Asian/Chinese 7 72 Asian/Chinese 13 78 International 6 72 Asian/Chinese 13 72 Asian/Chinese 2 78 Latin Amer/Mex 4,6,12,15 78 Latin Amer/Mex 2 78 Latin Amer/Mex 6, 8, 12 78 Latin Amer/Mex 2, 4, 11 78 Latin Amer/Mex 12 78 Latin Amer/Mex 4 79 Latin Amer/Mex 13 79 Latin Amer/Mex 3, 12 72 Asian/Chinese 7 73 Asian/Chinese 4 55 Upscale Casual 1 54 Fine Dining 1 54 Fine Dining 3 75 European/German 6 58 Cafés 1 79 Latin Amer/Mex 3, 5, 12, 16 58 Cafés 8 58 Cafés 2 81 Coffee House 1 70 Barbecue 6 68 Pizza 8 68 Pizza 2, 5 59 Cafés 14 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 76 European/Italian 6 61 Steakhouse 12 68 Pizza 9 70 Barbecue 1 71 Barbecue 4, 11 72 Asian/Chinese 13 60 Seafood 2 60 Seafood 1 60 Seafood 3 60 Seafood 11 71 Bar & Grills 1 54 Fine Dining 1 63 Casual Dining 2 66 Home Style 13 72 Asian/Chinese 14 55 Upscale Casual 1 63 Casual Dining 4 61 Steakhouse 16 68 Pizza 12 74 Asian/Japanese 8 71 Cajun/Creole 2 59 Cafés 1 63 Casual Dining 5, 7 75 European/German 7 78 International 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style 2 59 Cafés 1 71 Bar & Grills 3 73 Asian/Chinese 12 63 Casual Dining 4, 12, 15 73 Asian/Chinese 12 66 Home Style 8 59 Cafés 10 73 Asian/Chinese 13 71 Bar & Grill 1 80 Middle Eastern 2 59 Cafés 9 71 Bar & Grill 12 73 Asian/Chinese 2
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Great Wok Greek Paradise Café Hall’s Cafeteria Happy Dragon Hard Rock Café Harper’s Restaurant Harvest Moon Havan Rumba Hazelwood Restaurant Heavenly Ham Heine Brothers Coffee Heitzman Bakery & Deli Highland Coffee Co. Highland Wildflower Highlands Taproom Hitching Post Inn Holly’s Legal Street Hometown Buffet Hometown Pizza Hong Kong Chinese Hong Kong Fast Food Hoops Grill and Sports Bar Hooters House of Dragon Imperial Palace Indi’s Restaurant India Palace Indigo Bistro & Bar The Irish Rover Iroquois Pizza J. Alexander’s J. Graham’s Café J. Harrods J.J.’s Café Jack Fry’s Jack’s Lounge Jade Palace Jalapeño’s Jane’s Cafeteria Jarfi’s Bistro Java Brewing Co. Jay’s Cafeteria Jazz Factory Jersey Mike’s Subs Jessie’s Restaurant Jicama Grill Jillian’s Jimbo’s BBQ Jimmy’s on the River Joe Huber Restaurant Joe Muggs Joe’s Crab Shack Joe’s O.K. Bayou Joe’s Older Than Dirt John E’s Juanita’s Burger Boy Jucy’s Smokehouse Julie’s of Jeffersonville Jumbo Buffet Kaelin’s Restaurant Kashmir Indian Kern’s Korner Kim’s Asian Grille King Buffet King’s Buffet King Wok King’s Fried Chicken Kings Fast Food Kingfish Kobe Japanese Steak Kolache Factory Koreana II KT’s Kunz’s KY Taco L&N Wine Bar and Bistro La Bamba La Bodega La Herradura La Marimba La Peche II La Petit Patisserie La Tapatia Le Relais Lee’s Korean Legend’s
73 Asian/Chinese 1 75 European/Greek 2 67 Cafeterias 2 73 Asian/Chinese 1 63 Casual Dining 1 63 Casual Dining 5 73 Asian/Chinese 5 79 Latin Amer/Mex 3 66 Home Style 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 4, 9, 14 81 Coffee House 2, 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 81 Coffee House 1, 2 81 Coffee House 2 68 Pizza 2 71 Bar & Grills 11 66 Home Style 1 66 Home Style 6, 8, 13, 15 68 Pizza 7, 9, 13 73 Asian/Chinese 14 73 Asian/Chinese 12 71 Bar & Grill 8, 12 64 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 73 Asian/Chinese 3 73 Asian/Chinese 11 64 Casual Dining 1, 3, 12 77 Indian 5 55 Upscale Casual 3 76 European/Irish 2, 7 68 Pizza 13 55 Upscale Casual 3 59 Cafés 1 55 Upscale Casual 3, 10 71 Barbecue 15 55 Upscale Casual 2 71 Bar & Grills 3 73 Asian/Chinese 7 79 Latin Amer/Mex 13 67 Cafeterias 4 56 Upscale Casual 1 81 Coffee House 1, 2,10 67 Cafeterias 1 59 Bistros 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 66 Home Style 13 79 Latin Amer/Mex 2 64 Casual Dining 2 71 Barbecue 12 64 Casual Dining 16 80 Ent. Dining 14 81 Coffee House 3, 8 60 Seafood 1 71 Cajun/Creole 6 64 Casual Dining 5 56 Upscale Casual 4 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 71 Barbecue 5 69 Sandwich/Deli 16 73 Asian/Chinese 6 64 Casual Dining 2 77 Indian 2 64 Casual Dining 2 74 Asian/Korean 1 73 Asian/Chinese 6 73 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Asian/Chinese 3 67 Home Style Cooking 1 67 Home Style Cooking 13 60 Seafood 4, 6, 7, 13, 16 74 Asian/Japanese 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 6 74 Asian/Korean 12 56 Upscale Casual 2 54 Fine Dining 1 79 Latin Amer/Mex 11 59 Bistro 2 79 Latin Amer/Mex 2 78 International 2 79 Latin Amer/Mex 15 79 Latin Amer/Mex 11 64 Casual Dining 7 59 Cafés 1 79 Latin Amer/Mex 12 54 Fine Dining 4 74 Asian/Korean 12 64 Casual Dining 14
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Melillo’s... where memories taste great! Hours: Lunch Tuesday thru Saturday 11am til 2pm Dinner Tuesday thru Saturday begins at 5pm
Featuring wines from Felice Vineyards and Brown-Forman. Imported Italian Beers.
Come experience and play on Louisville’s only Bocce Ball Court.
52 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
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Lemongrass Café 75 Lentini’s 76 The Lighthouse 64 Lilly’s 54 Limestone 56 Lindy’s 67 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Little Chef 69 Little Saigon 75 Logan’s Roadhouse 61 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 79 Lone Star Steakhouse 61 Longhorn Steakhouse 61 Longino’s Grill 64 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 67 Los Aztecas 79 Los Indios Mexicano 79 Lotsa Pasta 69 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Luchessi’s Ravioli & Pasta Co. 76 Lucky Dragon 73 Lucky House Buffet 73 Luigi’s 76 Lunch Today 69 Lynn’s Paradise Café 64 Ma Zerellas 68 Maharaja Indian Restaurant 77 Maido Essential Japanese 74 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 75 Main Eatery 69 Main Menu 64 Main Street Grind 59 Mama Rosa 79 Mambo 79 Manchu Wok 73 Mancino’s Pizza 68 Manhattan Grill 64 Manoosh’s 78 Mark’s Feed Store 71 Martini Italian Bistro 76 Masterson’s 64 Max & Erma’s 64 Mayan Gypsy 79 Mazzoni’s Oyster Café 60 McAlister’s Deli 69 Me Oh My Jumbalay 71 Melillo’s 76 The Melting Pot 64 Meridian Café 59 Mexico Tipico 79 Mezzaluna Tuscan Grill 76 Michael Murphy’s 71 Mike Linnig’s 60 Mitchell’s Fish Market 60 Moe’s Southwest Grill 79 Molly Malone’s 76 Morton’s of Chicago 61 Mr. Gattis 68 Mr. Lou’s 67 Mr. Z’s Kitchen 59 Muse Café 59 My Favorite Muffin 81 My Old KY Dinner Train 80 Naiman’s Deli 69 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 59 Napa River Grill 56 Neil’s Place 67 Nermana’s Cuisine 75 Nero’s 56 New Direction Bar & Grill 71 New World Buffet 73 Nik’s Restaurant 76 North End Café 59 O’Charley’s 64 O’Dolly’s 67 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 76 The Oakroom 54 Old Spaghetti Factory 76 Old Stone Inn 56 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 71 The Olive Garden 77 Ollie’s Trolley 69 Olive’s on Fourth 67 Olmecas 79 Omar’s Gyro 80 On the Border 79
Asian/Vietnamese 2 European/Italian 2 Casual Dining 16 Fine Dining 2 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style 12 Pizza 6, 11,12 Sandwich/Deli 14 Asian/Vietnamese 8 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 Latin Amer/Mex 12 Steakhouse 5 Steakhouse 6 Casual Dining 12 Home Style 3 Latin Amer/Mex 1, 6, 7, 10 Latin Amer/Mex 14 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 6 European/Italian 7 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 4 European/Italian 1 Sandwich/Deli 16 Casual Dining 2 Pizza 15 Indian 2 Asian/Japanese 2 Asian/Thai 16 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining 14 Cafés 14 Latin Amer/Mex 4 Latin Amer/Mex 12 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 7, 8 Casual Dining 1 International 1 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 European/Italian 8 Casual Dining 1 Casual Dining 6, 8, 10 Latin Amer/Mex 1 Seafood 4 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 11 Cajun/Creole 2 European/Italian 1 Casual Dining 6 Cafés 3 Latin Amer/Mex 13 European/Italian 2 Bar & Grills 1 Seafood 13 Seafood 8 Latin Amer/Mex 3, 6 European/Irish 2 Steakhouse 1 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 6, 12, 13 Home Style 13 Cafés 1 Cafés 3 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 Ent. Dining 12 Sandwich/Deli 5 Cafés 2 Upscale Casual 3 Home Style 14 Euro/Bosnian 2 Upscale Casual 14 Bar & Grills 8 Asian/Chinese 8 European/Greek 6 Cafés 2 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 Home Style 13 European/Irish 2 Fine Dining 1 European/Italian 1 Upscale Casual 6 Barbecue 11 European/Italian 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style Cooking 1 Latin Amer/Mex 2 Middle Eastern 2 Latin Amer/Mex 8
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Onion Rest.Tea House Oriental Express Oriental House Oriental Star Osaka Sushi Bar Oscar Brown’s Southbeach Otto’s Café Outback Steakhouse Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese Panera Bread Co. Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza Papa Johns Pizza Papillon Grill & Bar Park Place Restaurant Parrott Beach Pat’s Steak House The Patron Paul’s Fruit Market Peking City Penn Station Pepper Shaker Bar-B-Q Perkfection Pesto’s Italian Piccadilly Cafeteria Picnicaters BBQ Pie in the Sky Pit Stop Bar-B-Que Pizza Box Pizza By The Guy Pizza Hut Pizza King Pizza Magia Pizza Place Plehn’s Bakery Po-Boy Shoppe Ponderosa Steakhouse Porcini Portico Prospect Fish Market Qdoba Mexican Grill Queenie’s Pizza & Such Quick Wok Quizno’s Subs Rafferty’s of Louisville Rainbow Blossom Ramsi’s Café Ranch House Ray Parrella’s Red Cheetah Lounge Red Horse Grille & Bar Red Lounge Red Star Tavern Rich O’s Public House Rinco Latino River Creek Inn River Grille Roadway Wings Rockwall Bistro Rocky’s Italian Grill Rollo Pollo Romano’s Macaroni Grill Rosticeria Luna Royal Garden Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que Ruby Tuesday The Rudyard Kipling Rufad’s Kebob Rumors Raw Oyster Bar Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse Ryan’s Steakhouse Saffron’s Saint’s Sakura Blue Sala Thai Sam’s Food & Spirits Samurai Santa Fe Grill Sapporo Japanese Grill Sarajevo Schlotzsky’s Deli Scotty’s Ribs Sesame Chinese Shalimar Indian Shanghai Restaurant Shenanigan’s Irish Grille
73 Asian/Chinese 14 73 Asian/Chinese 9 73 Asian/Chinese 3 73 Asian/Chinese 12 74 Asian/Japanese 2 56 Upscale Casual 1 64 Casual Dining 1 61 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 64 Casual Dining 2 73 Asian/Chinese 10 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 6 68 Pizza 3, 12 68 Pizza  75 Euro/Bosnian 2 54 Fine Dining 1 56 Upscale Casual 1 61 Steakhouse 2 59 Cafés 3 69 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 73 Asian/Chinese 8 69 Sandwich/Deli  71 Barbecue 12 81 Coffee House 16 77 European/Italian 1 67 Cafeterias 5, 6 71 Barbecue 1 68 Pizza 6 71 Barbecue 1 68 Pizza 8 68 Pizza 5 68 Pizza  68 Pizza 14, 16 68 Pizza  68 Pizza 4 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 61 Steakhouse 7 77 European/Italian 2 54 Fine Dining 14 61 Seafood 10 79 Latin Amer/Mex 2,3,5,8,15 69 Pizza 1 73 Asian/Chinese 1 69 Sandwich/Deli 1,6,8,14,15,16 64 Casual Dining 3, 8 81 Desserts/Bakery 8 64 Casual Dining 1, 2 64 Casual Dining 14 77 European/Italian 2 56 Upscale Casual 1 65 Casual Dining 12 59 Bistros 2 56 Upscale Casual 1 81 Microbreweries 14 79 Latin Amer/Mex 8 61 Seafood 7 65 Casual Dining 1 67 Home Style Cooking 13 56 Upscale Casual 14 77 European/Italian 16 65 Casual Dining 3 77 European/Italian 5 80 Latin Amer/Mex 12 73 Asian/Chinese 12 71 Barbecue 12 65 Casual Dining 3, 6 65 Casual Dining 1 75 Euro/Bosnian 2 61 Seafood 9 61 Steakhouse 3 61 Steakhouse 11, 12, 13, 15 80 Middle Eastern 1 71 Bar & Grill 3 74 Asian/Japanese 3 75 Asian/Thai 6 65 Casual Dining 14 74 Asian/Japanese 6 80 Latin Amer/Mex 12 74 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 75 Euro/Bosnian 11 70 Sandwich/Deli 6, 8, 9, 12 71 Barbecue 9 73 Asian/Chinese 5 77 Indian 6 73 Asian/Chinese 1 71 Bar & Grill 2
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Shogun 74 Shoney’s 65 Sichuan Garden 73 Sir Churchill’s Pub 75 Skyline Chili 65 Smokey Bones BBQ 71 Somewhere In Thyme 65 Soupy’s 70 South Side Inn 67 Spaghetti Shop 77 Sportstime Pizza 69 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 61 Star of Louisville 80 Starbucks Coffee 81 Starving Artist Café 59 Steak N Shake 65 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 71 Stevens & Stevens 70 Stoney River 62 Strawberry Patch Deli 70 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 65 Sub Station II 70 Sue’s Touch Of Country 67 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 59 Sweet Surrender 81 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Tailgaters Sports Bar 71 Taj India 77 Texas Roadhouse 62 TGI Friday’s 65 Thai Café 75 Thai Kitchen 75 Thai Siam 75 Thai Smile 4 75 Thai Taste 75 The Other Place 65 Third and Main Café 59 Third Avenue Café 59 Thyme Café 59 Timothy’s 56 Tokyo Japanese 74 Toll Bridge Inn 67 Tologono 59 Tommy Lancaster 65 Tony Boombozz 69 Tony Impellizzeri’s Pizza 69 Tony Roma’s 71 Trellis Restaurant 65 Tucker’s 65 Tumbleweed 80 Twiams Chicken & Waffles 65 Twice-Told Café 59 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 65 Two Bucks 70 Two Guys and a Grill 70 Uno Chicago Bar & Grill 69 Uptown Café 56 Vic’s Café 71 Vietnam Kitchen 75 The Villa Buffet 65 Vince Staten’s BBQ 71 Vincenzo’s 54 Vito’s Pizzeria 68 Volare 77 W.W. Cousin’s 65 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Wall Street Deli 70 Wang’s Wok 74 Webb’s Market 67 Whitney’s Diner 59 Wicks Pizza 69 Wild Oats Market 70 Willie’s Italian 77 Winston’s 54 Wok Express 74 Wonton Express 74 Woodford Reserve Grille 71 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 57 Yang Kee Noodle 74 Yen Ching 74 You-Carryout-A 74 Z’s Oyster Bar 55 Zen Garden 75
Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 European/English 6 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Barbecue 6 Casual Dining 6 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6, 8, 13 Cafeterias 14 European/Italian 11, 14 Pizza 14 Seafood 3 Ent. Dining 16 Coffee House  Cafés 5 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Bar & Grills 14 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steakhouse 8 Sandwich/Deli 9 Casual Dining 14 Sandwich/Deli 12 Home Style 13 Cafés 2 Desserts/Bakery 2 Latin Amer/Mex 12 Bar & Grills 12 Indian 6 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 Casual Dining 1, 6, 7 Asian/Thai 7 Asian/Thai 13 Asian/Thai 4 Asian/Thai 6 Asian/Thai 2 Casual Dining 2 Cafés 1 Cafés 1 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 16 Asian/Japanese 7 Home Style 14 Bistros 3 Casual Dining 14 Pizza 2, 3 Pizza 2 Barbecue 5 Casual Dining 1 Casual Dining 14 Latin Amer/Mex  Casual Dining 13 Cafés 7 Casual Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 8 Sandwich/Deli 7 Pizza 11 Upscale Casual 2 Bar & Grills 1 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Casual Dining 14 Barbecue 10 Fine Dining 1 Pizza 12 European/Italian 2 Casual Dining 3 Home Style 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Asian/Chinese 9 Home Style 1 Cafés 11 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Sandwich/Deli 3 European/Italian 13 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 4, 12 Bar & Grill 12 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 5 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Fine Dining 5 Asian/Vietnamese 2
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UNLESS NOTED OTHERWISE, ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE. ALL KENTUCKY PHONE NUMBERS LISTED ARE IN THE 502 AREA CODE, INDIANA PHONE NUMBERS ARE IN THE 812 AREA CODE. RED DENOTES AN ADVERTISER.
$ $$ $$$ $$$$
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Average Entrée under $8 Average Entrée $9–$14 Average Entrée $15–$20 Average Entrée $21 & up Full Bar Outdoor Dining Live Music
FINE DINING 211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Stylish and comfortable in its leafy suburban setting, 211 Clover’s upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine rank it consistently among the city’s top tables, earning it a sizable cadre of committed fans. $$$$ p f
beautifully uses a historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine from chef Daniel Stage. It’s not just the city’s best French restaurant but a contender for best of the region. $$$$ p f e LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. Chef Kathy Cary seems to spend as much time in New York City as she does in Louisville. As a repeat invitee to Manhattan’s James Beard House, she shares her Kentucky-accented cooking skills with the rest of the nation. Lilly’s combines style and Cary’s creative cookery to keep this landmark near the top of the city’s dining list. $$$$ p e THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St., (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. When Chef Jim Gerhardt left the Oakroom last year to start Limestone, local restaurant-watchers speculated that his act would be hard to follow. To their credit, Executive Chef Walter Lefler and Chef de Cuisine Todd Richards have maintained four-star food and service in this elegant, historic hotel dining room. $$$$ p PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. The signature restaurant in Louisville Slugger Field changed its name from Wellinghurst’s to signal the arrival of popular local
Chef Anoosh Shariat as executive chef. Already a top local steakhouse, Park Place is solidifying its place in the city’s top tier of upscale eateries, with stylish service and an updated menu. $$$$ p f e PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and style bring a taste of Las Vegas to Metro Louisville in this pricey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the grounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high roller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suavely professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and some trademark dishes prepared at tableside, Vincenzo’s owns a place as one of Louisville’s top tables. Some find its mood and attentive service a little overbearing; others love the luxury. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Culinary arts students at Sullivan University staff this finedining restaurant on the campus, under supervision by experienced chefs and managers. A fair number of the city’s top chefs got their training here. Open Fri.-Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p
610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. For the first few months after its change of hands last autumn, local foodies fretted about whether Chef Edward Lee would reach the mark that longtime chef/owner Ed Garber set during his 25 year tenure at one of the region’s leading restaurants. We’re satisfied now. No mere caretaker of the Garber tradition, Lee has put his own individual stamp on 610, and we love it as much as ever. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Eclectic Victorian with tongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not overstated, this fine dining room on the ground floor of Old Louisville’s genteel old Mayflower Apartments combines a welcoming attitude with high-quality fare and atmosphere that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bardstown Rd., 458-4830. A local tradition that helped establish Bardstown Road as one of the city’s “restaurant rows” a generation ago, Café Metro remains an upscale landmark, with a core of loyal fans who hope it will never change. $$$ p ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Camberly Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same downtown landmark that our parents and grandparents enjoyed. Chef Joe Castro continues to win raves for creative, inventive (and expensive) fare that makes the Brown a major player in the downtown-hotel dining sweepstakes. $$$$ p EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Tucked away in a simple white-brick building, Equus is a block off the main drag in St. Matthews, but happy diners beat a path to its door. Very fine international cuisine, a stylish setting and first-rate service combine to make it one of the city’s top dining rooms. $$$$ p THE FLAGSHIP 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. The best thing about the Flagship is its romantic, spectacular view of the city from its revolving quarters atop the Galt House hotel. It offers fine white-tablecloth dining with service to match. $$$$ e KUNZ’S FOURTH AND MARKET 115 S. Fourth St., 585-5555. One of the oldest restaurants in Louisville, Kunz’s has moved from one downtown location to another. Its old German accent has muted a bit with time; with a new menu in place, it now offers a choice of old-fashioned, hearty steak and seafood and stylish modern fare. $$$ p LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd., (Bowman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for the city’s top table, this stylish art deco spot 54 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
Sullivan University Campus 3101 Bardstown Road Louisville, KY 40205 Reservations are recommended
Friday & Saturday Lunch 11 am - 2 pm Dinner 5:30 pm - 10 pm Sunday Brunch 9:30 am - 2 pm
Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that’s previously been hard to find outside the city. Armed with excellent, oversize steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience, Z’s thoroughly outguns the upscale steakhouse competition. $$$$ p
UPSCALE CASUAL ARTEMISIA 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. As the bustling arts scene in this east-of-downtown neighborhood has blossomed, Artemisia has evolved right along with it, maturing from an excellent lunch spot to a favorite dinner venue in a gallery setting, with fare to please both vegetarians and omnivores, plus an attractive alfresco dining option. $$$ p f e ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi, who has won diners’ raves and many culinary awards during Asiatique’s long tenure in St. Matthews, transplanted his innovative Asianfusion restaurant to larger and even more striking quarters on the busy Bardstown Road corridor, where he has kicked things up still another notch. $$$ p f
CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well, as we can tell from the neon signs across its front windows listing its fields of specialization: “Italian, Cajun, seafood, pizza and subs and more.” $$ p DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. From Central Spain, authentic Castilian food ranging from tapas to a memorable paella make this Bardstown Road standby a unique experience reminiscent of dining on a square in Madrid. $$$ ENCORE RESTAURANT AT ACTORS THEATRE 316 W. Main St., 561-3344. Not so much a destination restaurant as a decent place to dine before the theater, Encore offers a short but eclectic bill of fare that will satisfy your palate and get you to your seat before the curtain rises. $$ p FOUNTAIN ROOM AT THE GALT HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. This comfortable space features both buffet and menu dining. One price covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu often includes regional and contemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p
INDIGO BISTRO AND BAR 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 893-0106. Creating a bit of confusion for oldtimers, this is a new restaurant in a location that formerly housed a more upscale and fancy eatery with a similar name. Now it’s casual, offering American-style food and drink. $$ p f e J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555, 3814 Frankfort Ave., 899-7794. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and oldfashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. If you want to give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining style, there’s no better destination than Jack Fry’s. This popular spot, always packed, saves just a whiff of the raffish aspect of its 1960s-era predecessor, a local saloon, but upgrades it with creative American fare in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e
AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ‘n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. Fresh American and international cuisine come together in this stylish Bardstown Road spot that’s become a quick favorite since its opening two years ago. The adjacent patio is a particularly popular spot on summer evenings, with heaters to extend summer well into spring and fall. $$$ p AZALEA 3612 Brownsboro Rd., 895-5493. Another of the city’s longtime favorites, Azalea—the Louisville outpost of a popular Atlanta eatery— delights with creative American and fusion-style fare whether you dine in or enjoy the open air of its shady, brick-walled patio. $$$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 100 E. Jefferson St., 540-3214, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a star on Louisville’s bistro scene since it helped kick off the Bardstown Road restaurant renaissance some 25 years ago. Old standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger are always reliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f THE CHEF’S TABLE 1160 S. First St., 587-2433. If you love good things to eat, what could be better than dining at the chef’s table, sitting alongside the guy with the skillet and wooden spoon, enjoying the best he has to offer? That’s the deal at The Chef’s Table in Old Louisville, a charming new eatery where every diner gets personal attention from the chef. $$ e CHESTER’S TAVERN 5444 New Cut Rd., 368-8848. $$ CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. International touches make Club Grotto’s bill of fare memorable. Its comfortable, romantically dim and stylish environs and excellent service add value points. Sometimes overlooked, but worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165. This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but Coach Lamp turns into a serious dining room Wednesday through Saturday evenings with well-prepared dishes that range from down-home favorites to pastas. With former Brown Hotel Chef Jerome Pope now in the kitchen, expanded evening hours and a new menu, this is a place to watch. $$$
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JARFI’S BISTRO 501 W. Main St., 589-5060. Jeff Jarfi, formerly the personality of the Brown Hotel’s English Grill, is now the eponymous host of the renamed Kentucky Cove. He is making the right moves (including popular lunch and pre-theater buffets) to draw crowds to this stylish venue in the Kentucky Center for the Arts. $$$ p
JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. This old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation. From its cozy setting in a historic Buechel home (once a log cabin) to its down-home service to its good American-style fare at reasonable prices, this comfortable place is a prime choice for a family get-together. $$$$ p e
KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow and a modern bar scene for a price that’s fair. $$ p f LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the restaurant business, keep doing what you do best. Chefs Jim Gerhardt and Michael Cunha have followed this simple formula with considerable success at Limestone, transporting the concept that brought them international culinary kudos at the Seelbach’s Oakroom with good effect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141. Spanning California and the Pacific Rim, this starkly modern St. Matthews spot has gained a reputation for consistent quality and service, featuring well-prepared California cuisine and an extensive, fairly priced wine list adds to its appeal. $$$ p f NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portico as the second high-end, fine-dining restaurant at Caesar’s Indiana, Nero’s— located on the casino boat’s Fourth Deck— complements Portico’s all-American steak-andseafood theme with a broader international menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p OLD STONE INN 26905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. This historic stone building east of Louisville in Simpsonville, Ky., housed a popular restaurant for more than a generation. After an alltoo-brief resurrection by Simpsonville’s sausagemaking Purnell family, it has reopened under the management of Paul Crump, formerly of Porcini. We’re hoping his skills and the atmosphere will make it a deservedly hot spot. $$$ p f OSCAR BROWN’S SOUTHBEACH STATION 252 E. Market St., 581-1222. Chef Nick Sundberg features an American bistro style at his casual-upscale restaurant in the increasingly hot east downtown neighborhood,. His menu showcases Caribbean influences from Cuba, Jamaica and Trinidad (plus a few regional Kentucky items). $$ p e PARROTT BEACH Fourth Street Live, 589-5336. $$ pf e RED CHEETAH LOUNGE Fourth Street Live, 5890695. $$ p e RED STAR TAVERN Fourth Street Live, 568-5656. Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this new chain operation in the rehabilitated former Galleria features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with entrees from about $12 to $24, and an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f
Le Relais Restaurant at Historical Bowman Field Airport serving dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Prix Fixe 4 Courses $28.50 Tues.-Thurs.
★★★★ Louisville’s Most Unique Dining Experience 56 Summer 2004 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com
Light Jazz – Sunday Evenings Outdoor Dining • Sunsets • Plane Rides Special Occasion Luncheons Reservations 451-9020 www.lerelaisrestaurant.com
ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old rock-quarry location in scenic Floyds Knobs to offer an atmospheric eatery, with a creative menu that features a light Louisiana accent, and an interesting, affordable wine list. It’s well worth the 15-minute trip across the Ohio for one of the metro area’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f TIMOTHY’S 214 Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 282-2202. In the wake of a somewhat unlikely move from funky East Broadway to suburban Jeffersonville, Timothy’s is still just as comfortable as an old shoe, and the happy crowds that are streaming across the bridges to enjoy it demonstrate that management hasn’t done anything to lose the affection of its loyal clientele. $$$ p f e UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Across the street and a step downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café offers
similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Restaurateur Laura Tao’s stylish downtown restaurant promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p
CAFES ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ APPLE ANNIE’S AT HEALTH & HARVEST 3030 Bardstown Rd., 451-6772. Explore the vast grocery section before coming to rest for coffee, tea, juice, pastries and sandwiches—all prepared with organic ingredients and many vegetarian and vegan selections. $ APPLEBY’S CAFÉ AND CATERING 201 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-3663. This café and catering business offers a variety of daily lunch specials plus gourmet coffees and a tempting array of desserts. $ f BEG FOR MORE CAFÉ 380-0085. $
8402 National Turnpike,
CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. This is truly cuisine that makes the world go round. Homemade soups, breads and globetrotting entrees make this a favorite café to sample new tastes. Menu changes seasonally. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dutchmans Ln., (Jewish Community
Center) 459-0660. The city’s only authentic, totally Kosher delicatessen, with a flair for presentation and flavor. Homemade soups, salads and wide-ranging hot entrees are available. $ f CAFÉ LOU LOU 1800 Frankfort Ave., 893-7776. Bright and bold and artsy, this neighborhood
Louisville’s Best Catch. Equus Restaurant has a tradition of serving the best Parmesan-Coated Sea Bass and USDA Prime Beef Steaks in town. Equus has been preparing fine continental cuisine with Kentucky accents for 19 years.
WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN?
BLUE MULE SPORTS CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’Connor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar. Riley died before their dream came true. But now O’Connor proudly presides over this 90-seat casual Jeffersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule.” $ p e BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Europe. Its comfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUE PEPPERMILL CAFÉ 1882 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN., 945-5830. Any city would be lucky to have this superb little bistro with a Hoosier twist. The fare ranges from down-home to upscale. The atmosphere is happy and bright; the service personal and quick. It’s a bit hidden away, but worth the search. $$ p BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 3255 Bardstown Rd., (Holiday Inn) 454-0451. This is a relaxing full service, casual family dining spot at the southern end of Bardstown Rd. Traditional favorites available here range from the Hot Brown to Fried Chicken. A colorful menu of freshly made soups, salads, appetizers and desserts serves the light diner. $ p
EQUUS RESTAURANT 1 2 2 S E A R S AV E N U E • S T. M AT T H E W S • ( 5 0 2 ) 8 9 7 - 9 7 2 1
BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $fe THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1325 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500. Tiny but tastefully attractive, this little cafe is hidden at the back of a Victorian house filled with gift shops that share a quaint, welcoming ambience. Typical luncheon fare is skillfully prepared. $ f CAFÉ CHARDEAUS 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-1050. Co-owners Becky Hutchens and Charlotte McGinnis may have built their reputation on catering, but you don’t have to plan a party to enjoy a taste of their stylish fare. Open for lunch weekdays. $ CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. Tucked into a corner of a tasteful furniture shop, Café Emilie is worth a visit. This French-accented East End eatery is a recent and welcome addition to the neighborhood’s casual dining options. $ f
Hearty and Warmingly Traditional Bosnian Cuisine Newly Expanded Menu featuring Ethnic Delicacies prepared Fresh Daily. We can cater your next special occasion.
Family Owned and Operated
Live Music, Friday Night 6-10p
2250 Frankfort Ave. 721-8998
www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Summer 2004 57
restaurant and pub is now open in Clifton. Chef Clay Wallace, formerly of Cafe Metro and Uptown Cafe, is back from Louisiana and names his new spot after Louisville and Louisiana. Affordable edibles range from wraps and calzones to handmade pizzas among the best in town. $$ f CENTRAL PARK CAFĂ‰ 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 6352066. Itâ€™s a delight to welcome another comfortable cafĂŠ to Louisvilleâ€™s distinctive Old Louisville neighborhood. Simple bistro fare is attractive, but the atmospheric neighborhood bar is the big draw in this popular spot. $$ p f e CHEDDAR BOX CAFĂ‰ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch often do so here, and more than a few gents join them, lured by an attractive selection of luncheon fare that ranges from soups and salads to tasty sandwiches ... and, it goes without saying, desserts. $ f CHEDDARâ€™S CASUAL CAFĂ‰ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400. A distinct buzz surrounded the arrival of Cheddarâ€™s, Louisvilleâ€™s first outpost of a Dallasbased chain. Itâ€™s drawing big, happy crowds with its large bar and familiar â€œcasual to upscale Americanâ€? dishes. $ p
Largest Cruvinet Wine System in the Country OVER 100 WINES BY THE GLASS Casual and Affordable â€œComfortâ€? Cuisine with a Five Star Flair Mon.-Thur. â€˘ Dinner â€“ 5pm-Midnight Fri.-Sat. â€˘ Dinner â€“ 5pm-1am
Reservations Accepted for Parties of any size.
Reservations Accepted for Parties of 6 or more.
502.897.0070 â€˘ 1765 Mellwood Ave Corner of Lower Brownsboro Rd. & Mellwood
SANDWICHES HOMEMADE DESSER TS STEAKS FRESH SEAFOOD PASTAS SALADS 12 BEERS ON TAP DAILY SPECIALS
Deke says, â€œJoin us downtown for great food and libations!â€?
CITY CAFĂ‰ 1907 S. Fourth St., 635-0222, 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the cityâ€™s culinary firmament, now brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to this growing local chain of quick, simple but excellent spots for lunch. $ f CYCLERS CAFĂ‰ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a restaurant? Well, itâ€™s both. Filling in the small quarters that August Moon vacated to move next door, this informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bikeâ€”or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFĂ‰ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum), 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f DERBY CITY CAFĂ‰ BY DALAL 3819 Bardstown Rd., 454-6160. Most of the dining crowd comes for the cream cheese and olive sandwiches, veggie pockets and Kentuckyâ€™s own Benedictine creations. $ DIEFENBACH CAFĂ‰ 128 S. New Albany St., Sellersburg IN, 246-0686. $$ p e DIXIE CUP CAFĂ‰ 4637 Dixie Hwy., 448-6999. Former Simpsonville, Ky. postmaster Pam Hale changed careers to open this welcoming spot on Dixie near the Watterson Expressway, and weâ€™re glad she did. Although itâ€™s billed as a â€œgourmet coffee shop,â€? warming chili, soups and salads and alluring desserts make it a full-scale lunch destination. $ ERMINâ€™S FRENCH BAKERY & CAFĂ‰ 1201 S. First St., 635-6960, 723 S. Fourth St., 587-9390, 454 S. Fourth Ave., 585-5120. Founded by an immigrant baker from Bosnia, these popular bakeries still attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $
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