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SUMMER 2008

grilled pizza party

edible art

Spice-rubbed shrimp with duck fatcrisped fingerling potatoes from L&N Wine Bar and Bistro.

plus

900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

Profiles

L&N|mazzoni’s|jarfi’s|rivue

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$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .


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Exquisite Dining Winston’s modern ambience, enhanced menu and incomparable service creates the perfect environment for dinner with friends, a corporate event or special occasion. Rated 3 1/2 stars, Winston’s has won many awards including the coveted DiRona Achievement of Distinction in Dining Award and the Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence.�

SUMMER 2008 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR ROBIN GARR LORI LAIRD TIM LAIRD DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS KEVIN GIBSON MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING CHEFS MICHAEL CROUCH KIM JONES DAVID WALLS CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO

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COPY EDITORS MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING PAUL NAJJAR IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine ÂŽ is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining MagazineÂŽ and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville MagazineÂŽ or any of its affiliates. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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Annual Subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ÂŽ P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at

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3100 Bardstown Rd. Louisville

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Professional Food Service Department of Sullivan University System 4

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For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER Spice-rubbed shrimp with duck fatcrisped fingerling potatoes from L&N Wine Bar and Bistro. (Feature story, page 34)

Photo by Dan Dry


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SUMMER 2008

FEATURES Edible Art

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Volare Executive Chef Joshua Moore’s sugar work techniques produce edible art and raves from diners.

Profiles: What’s Old is New Again Big changes in four of the best-known restaurants on Louisville’s dining scene have turned something old into something new in the city.

16 34

COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES

8

COMINGS & GOINGS

34

We track the region’s new restaurant openings, record the closings and report other news on the local restaurant front.

SIDE DISHES Reports of local restaurant and culinary news of note.

ENTERTAINING Pizza party — on your grill Party pros Tim and Lori Laird launch our new column with a sizzle. Step by step, from shopping to cooking to music selection, they’ll walk you through a memorable pizza party.

LIQUIDS

32

SPIRITS: Bourbon versus Scotch With Bourbon’s growing popularity, could the American team, Bourbon, be ready to challenge the incumbent, Scotch?

22

HIP HOPS: The Beer Report When it comes to adult beverages, publican Roger A. Baylor demands the best. Here he sums up the local establishments that offer the metro’s best quality beer programs.

CORK 101: Golf and Wine Golf pros are teeing it up in the wine business. With Louisville hosting the Ryder Cup, it’s a great time to try some of the wines and see if they have game.

COFFEE: Getting the right machine Good to the last drop. Our tips on picking the best home coffee brewing equipment for your money.

RECIPES RESTAURANT FAVORITES: Bourbons Bistro’s duck confit strudel

50

Executive Chef Michael Crouch’s European-style appetizer designed for Food & Dining continues to entrance patrons.

COOKING CLASS: Cooking with Pride Sullivan University chefs deliver fresh flavors using local ingredients and Kentucky Proud products.

RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE Our updated, comprehensive listing of over 900 area restaurants complete with reviews. Now redesigned with more helpful, user-friendly features.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 area maps.

14 28 22 24 46 48 32 50 54 82

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news and notes

comings

& goings

The bulls and the bears are battling it out on Wall Street, with high oil and gasoline prices and a careening stock market scaring the hell out of investors. And now that we look at it, recessionary moves are starting to scare a lot of people on the Louisville restaurant scene, too. In bullish news during the past quarter, Food & Dining recorded 28 new restaurant openings, plus nine more local eateries that added new locations. Fourteen more places remained in business while moving to new locations, and we’ve newly listed a half-dozen more spots that aren’t brand-new but that had previously flown under our radar. On the bearish side of the local restaurant market, we’ve lost 54 local eateries in recent months, a stunning drop that far exceeds losses in any previous quarter. A total of 33 restaurants closed entirely, while 21 more shuttered one or more properties in a larger chain. (Again, some of these closings had occurred earlier but had escaped our attention.) All of this is not to say that there’s nowhere left to eat in Louisville.We have completed a comprehensive semi-annual overall review of regional eateries for this edition, and are pleased to report that we review 942 uniquely named restaurant companies (excepting major fast-food franchise chains, which we do not list) in this edition. Taking restaurant businesses with multiple locations into account, Food & Dining now directs you to 1,076 individual places to eat in Kentuckiana.

OPENINGS Perhaps influenced by the economy, relatively few upscaletype restaurants opened in this quarter. Perhaps the highest-profile opening was Blackstone Grille, 9521 U.S. 42 in Prospect, where popular restaurateur Rick Dissel has landed — and brought along much of his following — after giving up management of his eponymous Rick’s Ferrari Grille in St. Matthews. Restaurateur Jeff Jarfi (featured in this issue’s Profiles), who last quarter opened his new Jarfi’s Bistro in the former Lentini’s on Bardstown Road, adds his name to another new spot, Jarfi’s Café in the Muhammad Ali Center at 144 N. Sixth Street. And, although it’s tiny and take-out only, Cake Flour, 909 E. Market Street, is building a tremendous buzz for its spectacular organic pastries. Nine new ethnic spots joined the city’s increasingly diverse dining community: Buenos Dias Café, 1703 Charlestown-NA Pike in Jeffersonville, offers more than just Mexican: This bright shopping center nook also features tasty delights from Honduras and Puer to Rico. Las Gorditas, a Mexico City-style taco and gordita trailer run by a family from Los Angeles and Dallas, rolls up to the Eastland Shopping Center, 4756 Bardstown Road, Friday through Monday evenings. Other ethnic additions, quickly told: Pita Hut offers Bosnian specialties similar to its predecessors at 1613 Bardstown Road; La Que appears little changed from Lemongrass, which it replaces at 1019 Bardstown Road. New Japanese dining rooms include Sake Blue Japanese Bistro, 9326 Cedar Center Way in the far East End; and Asahi 8

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Japanese, where award-winning sushi chef Yong Bong Tak now plies his art at 3701 Lexington Road. Two new Indian eateries, both receiving good early reviews, are Bombay Grill, 216 N. Hurstbourne Parkway; and Dakshin Indian Restaurant, 4742 Bardstown Road, which reportedly features the aromatic Southern Indian cuisine not widely available in Louisville. Add one more casual Persian dining room to Louisville’s growing selection in Caspian Grill Persian Bistro, 1416 Bardstown Road. Finally, and again perhaps reflecting a tight economy, numerous new spots offering comfortable, casual and inexpensive dining in Louisville. Listed alphabetically: Bruce’s Smokehouse & Ballpark Grill, 3065 Breckenridge Lane; Derby City Dogs, 960 Baxter Avenue; Fun Food Café, 1860 Mellwood Avenue; KC’s Chicago Hot Dog Stand, 1770 Bardstown Road; Olivia’s Restaurant, 946 Goss Avenue; PattiCakes Café, 1860 Mellwood Avenue; The Pie Pantry, 9208 Dixie Hwy.; Versatile, 962 Baxter Avenue, and Zeppelin Café, 1036 E. Burnett Street. In Oldham County, Cutter’s Wharf becomes the latest upscale casual eatery in the riverside spot at 1902 Victory Lane in Prospect; Son Of A Sailor Seafood Restaurant offers Outer Banks-style “calabash” fried fish at 617 W. Jefferson Street in LaGrange, and Varsity Pizza & Pints replaces Fast Break Pizza at 6825 Central Avenue in Crestwood. Over in Southern Indiana, Studio’s Grille & Pub has moved in to the former home of Connor’s Place, 207 E. Main Street in New Albany; happily, Connor’s Place will soon come back to life nearby at 132 E. Market Street in New Albany.


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Other new Hoosier entries: Cup of Sunshine, 415 E. Riverside Drive in Clarksville; J Train Pizza & Pub, 201 Spring Street, and Adrienne’s Italian Restaurant, 129 W. Court Avenue, both in Jeffersonville. About 10 local eateries are bucking the recessionary trend by opening or planning to open additional properties. Folks in the Highlands, for example, are virtually gaga over the imminent arrival of a second Café Lou Lou at 2216 Dundee Road, featuring a slightly abbreviated menu and local delivery. Original Impellizzeri’s is also building on the huge success of its return to Bardstown Road with the coming opening of a second property in a former Pizza Hut (yes, you heard that right) at 4933 Brownsboro Road. Rite Way Bar-B-Que House, a longtime West End institution, gets a second location, under separate, unrelated management, at 300 W. Chestnut Street. Local chains adding new Louisville proper ties include Backyard Burger, 11201 Oscar Road; Jimmy John’s Sub Shop, 967 Baxter Avenue, and Red Robin, 5000 Shelbyville Road. In Southern Indiana, Louisville’s India Palace adds a Hoosier branch at 408 E. Lewis & Clark Parkway in Clarksville; the popular La Rosita gains a third location at 1404 Blackiston Mill Road in Clarksville, and Our Best Restaurant opens its third property at 2835 Holman Lane in Jeffersonville.

CLOSINGS Topping the list of the quarter’s closings were the regrettable loss of Rockwall Bistro, 3426 Paoli Pike in Floyds Knobs, and the closing of the venerable Ferd Grisanti, 10212 Taylorsville Road in Jeffersontown. Apparently over-extended by its move into a second property at 9601 Shelbyville Road near Hurstbourne, Frank’s Steak House closed both that property and its long-lived property at 520 W. Seventh Street in Jeffersonville. More disappointing losses came with the closings of Germantown Café, 1053 Goss Avenue, and Jay’s Cafeteria, 1812 W. Muhammad Ali Boulevard. In St. Matthews, the tiny Sahara Café, 3701 Lexington Road, had won great reviews but nonetheless gave way after a short run to Asahi Japanese. Another very short run and not-so-hot reviews brought DaVinci by Lentini’s to a merciful end at 10430 Shelbyville Road. 10 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Other closings of the quarter in Louisville, listed alphabetically: Angie’s Café, 4010 Dupont Circle; Atomic Saucer, 1000 E. Oak Street; Bake’s Barbeque, 5427 Valley Station Road; Big Willie’s Pizza Pub, 10301 Taylorsville Road; Coffee Treat Café, 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd.; Dragon Garden, 2120 Bardstown Road; Eva Mae’s Creekside, 6313 Upper River Road; Henry Clay Café, 300 W. Chestnut; Jarfi’s at Mellwood, 1860 Mellwood Avenue; Jimmy and Richie’s, 813 Lyndon Lane; JP’s Pub & Grub, 5610 Outer Loop; Kimis Asian Bistro, 1915 Blankenbaker Parkway; Kip’s Kove, 4413 St. Rita Drive; Lemongrass Café, 1019 Bardstown Road; Middletown Bagel & Deli, 12903 Shelbyville Road; Pig and a Peppermint, 9521 US Highway 42, Prospect; Prado’s Pizza, 12935 Shelbyville Road; Prospect Fish House, 9521A U.S. 42, Prospect; Strawberry Patch Deli, 11616 Shelbyville Road, and The Gaslight Inn Restaurant & Tap, 10317 Watterson Trail. Out in Crestwood, the owners of Fast Break Pizza, 6825 Central Avenue in Crestwood, sold the property to new management who renamed it Varsity Pizza & Pints. In Southern Indiana, Buffalo Madison Coffee Company closed two properties at the IUS Campus Library in New Albany, and 701 Eastern Boulevard in Clarksville. The DBL Shotz coffee shop is gone from 1315 Spring Street in Jeffersonville; and the historic Steinert’s Grill & Pub closed after a fire at 2239 Charlestown Road in New Albany. Quite a number of national and local chains closed one or more properties while leaving others open. Listed alphabetically in Louisville: Blimpie’s, 3360 Hikes Lane; Brandon’s Bar-B-Que, 10301 Taylorsville Road and 7117 Shelbyville Road; Cici’s Pizza, 5226 Dixie Highway; City Café, 1907 S. Fourth Street; Ernesto’s, 7707 Preston Highway; Fat Jimmy’s, 9901C LaGrange Road; FireFresh BBQ, 3065 Breckinridge Lane, 808 Lyndon Lane and 12216 Shelbyville Road; Highland Coffee Co., 627 S. Fourth Street; My Favorite Muffin, 3934 Taylorsville Road; Ryan’s Family Steakhouse, 4711 Dixie Highway and 636 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville; Soupy’s, 4632 S. Hurstbourne Parkway, 4590 Dixie Highway, 9493 Westport Road and 2930 Dr. William Weathers Drive; El Tarasco, 412 South First Avenue in La Grange.


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The Legend Has Arrived Nearly 60 years ago the Horseshoe legend was forged. One of the first great casinos ever created. And now the legend has come to Southern Indiana. Offering some of the country’s finest dining. Like our famous Jack Binion’s Steak House featuring incredible steaks, buttery lobster tails, and truly decadent desserts. It’s all part of the legendary indulgence you’ll only find at Horseshoe. Just 20 minutes from Louisville off I-64. 1-866-676-SHOE. horseshoe.com.

A TOTAL REWARDS ® CASINO HARRAH’S ® • CAESARS ® • HORSESHOE ® • PARIS ® • SHOWBOAT ® • RIO ® • FLAMINGO ® • BALLY’S ®

Must be 21 years or older to gamble. Know When to Stop Before You Start®. Gambling problem? Call 1-800-9-WITH-IT, Harra’s License Company, LLC.


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MOVES & OTHER CHANGES

Join us at Nort h End Café Tuesday – Thursday 8 a.m. – 10 p.m. Friday – Saturday 8 a.m. – 11 p.m. & Sunday 8 a.m. – 10 p.m. Breakfast [ Lunch [ Dinner [ Private Parties 1722 Frankfort Avenue [ 502-896-8770 www.northendcafe.com

12 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Far and away the most visible move of the quarter came when Napa River Grill pulled up stakes from its longtime home in Dupont Circle and settled in as the anchor restaurant in Westport Village. Its new facilities echo the original’s California look in a more upscale style, and the California-Pacific Rim menu adds more exciting dishes. All this, and a lovely, grapevine-lined arbor patio too, have been drawing crowds that look more like a boom time than a recession. Another popular spot, Queen of Sheba Ethiopian, abandoned its rather dark location in an old motel on a gritty stretch of Bardstown Road to move into a brightly painted remake of the old Mazzoni’s space at 2804 Taylorsville Road. They’re pulling in crowds, too. Sala Thai at 9114 Taylorsville Road, rated as one of the city’s top Thai restaurants, sold the property to new owners, who at press time were planning to reopen it shortly as Thai Orchid. Bazo’s Mexican Grill has taken its popular fish tacos from 323 Wallace Avenue in Saint Matthews to 4014 Dutchmans Lane in Dupont Circle. Other Louisville-area moves, listed alphabetically: Devino’s moved closer to downtown, leaving its quarters at 320 W. Main Street near Slugger Field for 104 W. Main Street; Ernesto’s, from its longtime quarters at 10602 Shelbyville Road to the space at 10430 Shelbyville Road; Frascelli’s New York Deli & Pizzeria made a short migration to 6010 Crestwood Station from 6247 Crestwood Station, adding “Pizzeria” to the company name concurrent with the move; Manhattan Grill will move in August to 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd. from 200 S. 7th Street; Pizza By The Guy moved around the corner to 814 Lyndon Lane from 8109 LaGrange Road, and Qdoba’s Hurstbourne branch also made a short trek to 2730 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. from 8602 Citadel Way. In Southern Indiana, Babby’s Steakhouse moves in from from tiny Utica to 1207 E. Market Street in Jeffersonville, and Spaghetti Shop went down the street to 4510 Charlestown Road from 2669 Charlestown Road in New Albany. Finally, only the names changed as Caesar’s Indiana becomes Horseshoe Casino and its flashy dining room, once known as Portico, gets a name transplant as Jack Binion’s Steakhouse. F&D


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news and notes

side ON THE MOVE Oakroom Exodus: Three Fly South Three key staff at the Seelbach Hotel and its Oakroom have left the hotel — and the city — in pursuit of career changes. Executive Chef Todd Richards, Oakroom Chef de Cuisine Duane Nutter, and Director of restaurants Jerry Slater are headed to Atlanta. Their new company, Lush Life LLC, will partner with two Atlanta companies to open One Flew South, an upscale restaurant to be located on the international E Concourse in Atlanta’s Hartsfield-Jackson Airport. One Flew South will be one of the first of its kind as a fine-dining restaurant within a major airport’s security zone. The restaurant will be decked out in Georgia

dishes

white marble and heart pine. In addition to Richards’ and Nutter’s award-winning version of regionally influenced cuisine, it will feature a sushi bar. Slater, who is Food & Dining’s Spirits columnist, will continue in that role from his new post. Other Recent Moves Rick Adams has returned to L&N Wine Bar and Bistro, where he was the founding chef. He had opened the short-lived La Rouge and was then chef at Captain’s Quarters. David Clancy, once owner and chef of the highly acclaimed Bistro New Albany, has landed as chef at Carly Rae’s in Old Louisville. Michael Hargrove, who played a key

IS A PROUD SPONSOR OF

role in earning four-star status for Primo, has moved on to Mojito Tapas. Rick Dissell, the founder of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, has moved out to Prospect to open Blackstone Grille.

THIS AND THAT Sullivan at the Olympics Twenty-two culinary students and three chef-instructors from Sullivan University’s National Center for Hospitality Studies are going to Beijing to cater at the 2008 Olympic Games. Sullivan is the only U.S. culinary program formally invited to cook for the Olympics. Working with New York’s Framboise Catering, the Sullivan group will maintain

2008 DOWNTOWN LOUISVILLE RESTAURANT WEEK Enjoy exceptional dishes prepared by Louisville’s finest chefs in downtown’s hottest eateries. Fleur De Licious, Louisville’s third annual downtown restaurant week is taking place October 20- 25, 2008. No passes to buy or coupons to carry; simply attend one of the participating restaurants and select from a special 3-course menu for $25 or $35 (beverage, tax and gratuity not included). It’s the perfect time to try new restaurants or visit your old favorites. Make your reservations today! For more information, visit www.fleurdelicious.info Fleur De Licious is brought to you by Louisville Downtown Management District.

14 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com


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athletes’ diets at the U.S. Olympic Committee High Performance Training Center, and cook at the USA House for Olympic sponsors and guests. Chef Kimberley Jones, the Center’s Professional Catering Chair, will be lead chef at the USA House. Chef Collen Engle will be the lead chef at the High Performance Training Center, and Chef Becky Woehrle will be responsible for baking and pastry at both venues. There’s the Beef Three beef-loving Food & Dining staffers — Publisher John C. White,Vice President Paul Smith and Copy Editor Paul Najjar — were all judges at the 3rd Annual Fort Harrod Beef Festival in Harrodsburg in June. Professional and amateur grillers came from all over Kentucky to compete. Here’s a list of the first-place category winners in both divisions: Professional — Steak, High Mountain BBQ; Brisket, Darnell’s Catering; Chili, Big Sam’s Pig Paint BBQ, and Backyard Burger, Dunn’s BBQ. Amateur — Steak, Holy Smokers (Immanuel Baptist Church); Brisket, Brother’s BBQ; Chili and Backyard Burger, Camo Cooking Company. Lee Wagner dies at 70 Leo J. “Lee” Wagner, owner and pharmacist of the historic South End Wagner’s Pharmacy, whose shor t-order lunch counter is a longtime gathering place for Churchill Downs workers and race fans, died in July.The pharmacy has been in the Wagner family’s hands since 1922, and the family intends to continue it in operation. F&D

S U B S C R I B E TO FOOD & DINING Can’t wait to see what’s in the next issue of Food & Dining? Why not subscribe? Sign up for one year for $18, and we’ll give you four quarterly editions and pay you back in full with $18 in local-restaurant gift certificates. Better still, take two years for $26, we’ll send you eight issues and send you $36 worth of gift certificates. Subscribe online at:

w w w. fo o d a n dd i n e . c o m www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 15


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about food edible art

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Edible Art

The Art of French sugar-work lands in Louisville

16 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com


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Every good chef knows that we eat with our eyes first. Why else would the top establishments make presentation such a priority? It’s the small touches that separate the extraordinary meal from the average dining experience.

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about food edible art

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Chef Joshua Moor e takes the garnish t o new heights. As e xecutive chef at Volare Italian Restaurant, Moore spends at least an hour each day crafting dozens of authentic-looking pink r oses that he serv es alongside Volare’s popular tir amisu. He also mak es hollo w, brightred apples that he stuffs with pound cake and berries. His creations — sculptures, really — are made from pure sugar, so they are edible. “I do roses a lot, because they hold up really well,” Moore said. “I’ll do any fruit: oranges, pears and even grapes. The imagination is the limit on the fruit work. I don’t kno w that an yone else in t own is doing pour ed sugar as a pr ogram. The guests are amazed by it. They ask if I’m using a mold or something. ” In fact, Moore crafts his edible art b y hand, using a clas sical French pastry technique. Moore refers to it as “poured sugar,” although the sugar can also be blo wn like glass or pulled into shape. “It’s the art of working with sugar,” he said. “In Fr ance and abroad, it is s till used frequently. French pastry chefs are still faithful to classical presentation. Most pastry chefs who went to school in the States probably worked with this a little bit, but it ’s an entir ely different thing t o put it int o production as a pr ogram. It’s work. Any little impurities will affect it. You go just a few degrees off when you’re cooking your sugar and it can car amelize.”


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Moore makes his fruit sculptures out of sugar with glucose and lemon juice. He cooks the mixture at 300 degrees a day ahead of time and lets it cool on nonstick cookie sheets. A sous chef pulls bits of the sugar mixture off the sheets and hands them to Moore, who forms them into the desired shapes using a hot lamp and pipes.The fluorescent pink roses are for the tiramisu. The apples stuffed with pound cake and berries go out to guests celebrating birthdays and anniversaries. Volare is the only restaurant in Louisville, and perhaps in the region, that uses these sugar garnishes. Moore picked up the technique just four months ago from a pastry chef who had studied in France.The man wanted a break from making desserts. Moore offered to hire him as a line cook if he’d pass along the sugar-working techniques.The former employee only had to show him a few times before Moore was crafting images in sugar all by himself. “The guy that trained me said he actually tried to teach 100 people to do this and I’m only the third person he showed who could do it and move on,” Moore said proudly. Then again, Moore, 28, has always been a quick learner. After years of reading cookbooks and watching cooking shows on television, the Louisville native got his start in the culinary business at age 14. His mother had a catering job at Vincenzo’s and Moore talked his way into a part-time job at the Italian restaurant. He spent a year and a half doing prep work and assisting the pastry chef. After graduating from Seneca High School, Moore moved to Porcini’s, where he worked as a sous chef and pastry chef for seven years with no formal training. After a two-year stint as executive chef at Café Emilie (now 60 West), Moore took a job as a pastry chef at Volare because he wanted to get back to his roots in Italian cuisine. He’s been the executive chef for a little over a year and Moore is still as in love with the business as the first day he put on an apron at Vincenzo’s. “The thing I love about this business is there is always something new to learn,” he said.“The sugar is something that has been really fun to incorporate into my daily routine. The shelf life on (the fruit) is real short since it’s real sugar. The humidity will cause the sugar to recrystalize. So it’s a constant production. I usually spend an hour every day making a couple of dozen roses or a couple dozen apples, unless it’s a special occasion. Like Derby week, I was real ambitious and I wanted a rose on every plate. We ended up doing about 350 roses.There were people from all over the world and most of them had never seen anything like it.” A Sullivan University culinary student recently took a job at Volare just to learn the sugar-working technique. Meanwhile, Sous Chef Jeremiah Brown picks up the slack when Moore’s management duties eat into his sugar production time, but Moore tries to hoard as much of the time under the hot lamp as he can for himself. “The pastry thing, I love it,” he said.“That’s like my relaxation time. If I was in a huge city somewhere, Las Vegas or New York, I’d just be a pastry chef because I love doing it that much. I think there is an artistry that flows over into other aspects of my cooking. It allows you to think outside of the box.” F&D 20 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com


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Turn Your Career Up a Degree! A Bachelor’s Degree in Hospitality Management from Sullivan University’s National Center for Hospitality Studies can take your career to the next level. Not only will you receive valuable skills and knowledge, but you will also gain confidence and professional connections. After graduation, our job search assistance is available fee-free for the rest of your life!

Call to see what we can do for you!

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"ARDSTOWN2OADs,OUISVILLE +9

WOK STARS Sullivan’s National Center for Hospitality Studies is the only culinary school in the United States invited to have students cooking and baking for U.S. Olympic athletes, corporate partners and numerous visiting dignitaries at the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing, China.


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BY JERRY SLATER | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

As Louisville prepares to host the Ryder Cup, one of golf’s premiere events, pitting the American team against the European team, I started to think about the spirits-world equivalent of this challenge — a throwdown if you will. More specifically, I was thinking about the debate between whiskey, or whisky (more on that later); about the adamant legions of fans who argue over their favorite, the American Bourbon or its European counterpart, Scotch. Golf seems to have a long association with whisky, especially Scotch (Scotland, after all, is where the game was founded). But with this year’s Ryder Cup being in Kentucky, we might want to entertain the idea that golf could start to have an association with Bourbon as well.With Bourbon’s growing quality and popularity, could the American team, Bourbon, be ready to challenge the incumbent, Scotch?

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I may be jesting a bit about an actual whiskey throwdown, but Scotch has had the benefit of a reputation as sophisticated and complex, while Bourbon was often thought of as rural or harsh. This has obviously been changing. Scotch has not seen a decline in its reputation; in fact, quality producers continue to release more and more distinct and limited-edition bottlings with bigger and bigger price tags. The real change has been the rise of Bourbon and its popularity not only at home in the United States, but in Europe and Japan as well. Quality Bourbon producers like Woodford Reserve and Pappy Van Winkle have set off a trend that has American whiskey rivaling even the best single malt Scotches for taste and complexity. Let us delve into the world of whisk(e)y, which is also made in Ireland, Canada and Japan, in order to explore the similarities and differences between Bourbon and Scotch. 22 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Although Scotland and Ireland may argue about who started making whisk(e)y first, both are thought to have been making it in some form, probably as a medicine, as early as the 14th century. (The “e,” by the way, is a spelling variation depending on country of origin, with a few idiosyncratic exceptions, it’s “e” for the United States and Ireland, and no “e” for Scotland, Canada, and Japan.) As immigrants, the Scots and the Irish brought whisk(e)y distilling to the U.S., especially Appalachia and the Southeast. Spirits distillation is a process that clarifies and concentrates an already alcoholic liquid. In France and Spain, wine is distilled into brandy. In cooler climates, cereals like barley, wheat, and rye were used to make beer.This beer was the basis for distilling whisk(e)y. The “beer” used for modern whisk(e)y making might not be recognizable, or even drinkable, as beer, but its basis is a fermented brew that is then heated to high temperatures and cooled to capture a clear and highly concentrated spirit.


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For Scotch whisky, the term “single malt” is highly prized. It means that only malted barley is used at that distillery. If other grains, like corn or unmalted barley, are used, they can be combined in various ratios. This is what is known as blended Scotch, which tends to be lighter and usually less complex. Bourbon, on the other hand, has defined itself as using at least 51 percent corn in the grain mash.The remaining mix tends to be malted barley and either rye or wheat, or both. Wheated Bourbon tends to be smooth and a little sweeter, whereas rye tends to add a spicy and complex character. Though Bourbon and Scotch are similar in the their origins, there are two factors which make them quite different. In Scotch, it is kilning with peat. This is the process used to stop the malting, or sprouting, of the barley. The barley is soaked in water to encourage sprouting, or germination.This makes the sugars more accessible to the yeast during fermentation. To stop this process, the malted barley is dried over fire. Peat is added to the fire as fuel and this gives Scotch its trademark smoky character, or “peatiness.” In Bourbon, I would say that barreling, or aging, contributes to its uniqueness. Bourbon can only be aged in new, or “virgin,” white oak barrels. These barrels are heavily charred, making the wood’s natural flavors, like vanilla or brown sugar, more readily available to the whiskey. In fact, new Bourbon, or what the old-timers call “white dog,” is as clear as vodka when it goes into the barrel.The dark color and rich flavors of Bourbon is a result of several years of barrel aging through warm Kentucky summers. Scotch whisky on the other hand, is often aged in Sherry, Port, or Madeira casks, but the majority is aged in used Bourbon barrels. Used barrels and Scotland’s cooler climate contribute to its lighter color. So, are you a Bourbon or a Scotch fan? Are you, like a wayward Chicagoan who likes the Cubs and the White Sox, an aficionado of all whisk(e)y, believing each has its place and taste profile? Either way, it is easier for me to pick a nation to root for in golf than it is to argue with someone about their favorite whiskey. Or was that whisky? F&D www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 23


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liquids hip hops

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

The Beer Report Special Edition: Where to find good beer in L ouisville I’m guessing that for most people, weighing the merits of potential travel destinations involves broad considerations of sand, sun, outdoor fun, historic sites, museums and cultural attractions. Not for me. My first question always is this: Do these places have any good beer? Some may scoff, but the absence of good beer is a veritable deal breaker for me. I might be forever compelled to refrain from Machu Picchu, the Great Pyramids or Tahiti, and yet there’ll always be outstanding and tasty reasons to visit Portland, Oregon and Bamberg, Germany … or, if I didn’t already live there, New Albany, Indiana. Granted, Louisville probably isn’t in the upper echelons of beer locales in America, but it is by no means the beer desert it was in decades past. In fact, I’m hard pressed to think of a city in the South that is appreciably better than Louisville when it comes to good beer availability, although Nashville, Tennessee and Asheville, North Carolina are both possibilities. Many people reading this edition of Food & Dining are Barrels of Bluegrass Brewing visitors to Louisville, and at least Company’s Jefferson’s Reserve some of you may be wondering Bourbon Barrel Stout. where to find good beer in the city. You’re in luck, because I’m here to help you.

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Standards for inclusion are a bit nebulous, and yet I’m reasonably certain that the establishments I’m citing offer a varied selection of American craft brews and the more noteworthy imports, or, in short, more than just those beer choices that now constitute the minimum to justify an establishment being taken seriously. I fervently hope that at none of them will a server be overheard identifying Blue Moon as an import, or saying that dark beers are always stronger than pale ones. However, the good-beer revolution in Louisville is still young, and I cannot guarantee ideological conformity from all quarters. Some sweet day it will be understood that drinking from the bottle is irrevocably gauche, especially when it’s a Belgian Trappist ale. Mugs will no longer automatically come frozen, and senseless citrus fruit will be confined to appetizer trays where it belongs. Until then, I apologize if I’ve inadver tently omitted any deserving business. My liver is no longer low mileage, and sometimes forgetfulness wins. 24 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Drink Fresh Beer Where It’s Brewed

Louisville’s five breweries are the standard bearers for fresh, flavorful and distinctive beer. Bluegrass Brewing Company is the city’s longest continually operating brewpub, with an original location on Shelbyville Road in St. Matthews, and a non-brewing satellite downtown on 4th Street near Broadway. Brewmaster Jerry Gnagy’s creations are on tap at both, along with full food menus that are strong on classic American pub grub. When at BBC, look for Jerry’s seasonals and one-off brews, which are a cut above the rest. BBC’s off-premise production facility on the corner of Main & Clay downtown is separately owned and operated. Founding BBC brewer David Pierce’s APA and Dark Star Porter are bona fide Louisville classics, and can be enjoyed at their best in the taproom. Bring your own carry-out from the many eateries on nearby Market Street, or have pizza delivered, because no food is served.


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Two long blocks west of the BBC taproom is Browning’s Restaurant & Brewery, which occupies the Main Street side of Louisville Slugger Field (home of the AAA Reds affiliate, the Bats). Brewer Brian Reymiller’s lagers are the finest in town, although his She-Devil IPA and Bourbon Barrel Stout are not to be missed, either. Situated near the epicenter of the bohemian Bardstown Road corridor, Cumberland Brews remains the smallest brewpub in Louisville, although a larger production brewing facility nearby opened early in 2008. Beer favorites include Nitro Porter and Cream Ale. Finally, with an asterisk, there is BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse. The national chain’s 70th branch nationwide opened in early 2008 on Shelbyville Road. Although by definition a brewhouse is a place where beer is brewed, the beer at Louisville’s BJ’s branch comes from elsewhere. Nonetheless, I’ll take a deep breath, note that the beers are passable, clean starters for newcomers, and point to one of the largest food menus I’ve ever seen.

Louisville’s Irish–Anglo Diaspora Louisville doesn’t have a Welsh pub, at least yet, but the British Isles are amply represented, and the granddaddy of them all is the Irish Rover, run by native Irishman Michael Reidy and his wife Siobhan, and in business in a grand old building on Frankfort Avenue for 15 years.The Reidy’s operate a second location in LaGrange, and at both places Irish draft staples like Guinness and Harp reign supreme. Pub grub is taken up a notch by the inclusion of numerous contemporary Irish dishes gleaned from annual visits to the island. The O’Shea family is celebrating 50 years in the tavern business. In the mid1990s, they dipped back into their Celtic roots and opened O’Shea’s Irish Pub, a “traditional” interpretation on Baxter Avenue that always has felt pleasingly older than it really is. A few years later, they upped the ante with Flanagan’s Ale House, less than a block away. Both establishments boast extensive beer lists, both on draft and in bottles, with Flanagan’s typically being a tad more

adventurous. Recently a third O’Shea’s outpost opened virtually adjacent to the St. Matthew’s BBC brewpub. It is called Brendan’s Restaurant & Pub, and is a stunning remodeling of a pre-existing neighborhood bar. Also on Baxter Avenue, Molly Malone’s carries the standard Irish draft staples and ladles out pub grub. There is live entertainment and Gaelic sports on the tellies. The pub is a sprawling complex of well designed nooks and patios with a genuine Old World feel, but with a young crowd in residence. Fourth Street Live, one of many such food and entertainment complexes developed nationally by the Cordish Company, is not the first place that comes to mind where good beer can be enjoyed, but Pub Louisville does have all the standard Irish/Anglo beers on tap, with the added bonus of lesser known British ales and a handful of microbrews, some of which rotate seasonally. Those who love traditional “real ale” will be pleased to know that the Pub usually offers a caskconditioned beer on a hand-pulled pump.

One of the decks at O’Shea’s Irish Pub. Arguably among the best in the city, it is pleasantly reminiscent of New Orleans’ French Quarter.

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A Scattering of Independents

Carly Rae’s Parmesan Crusted Tilapia served with a glass of Cumberland Red from Cumberland Brews.

Nachbar in Germantown has simply the best and most stylistically diverse short beer list in the city of Louisville, and with low prices that have me scratching my head in disbelief. It’s a rising star. Don’t wait; go there now. Frankfort Avenue stalwart Maido Essential Japanese goes where no other Japanese restaurant dares, with a stylistically diverse beer list that ranges from Belgian specialties to hop-laden microbrews. The full-tilt combination of wasabi and Bell’s Two Hearted Ale or Stone Ruination remains the only street legal speedball in Louisville. I try to exercise restraint when visiting, but usually fail. One of the city’s most beloved neighborhood eateries is Baxter Station Bar and Grill, which has been offering food and drink in the Irish Hill district since 1989. The draft beer list is firmly classicist, with a varied and solid range of

QUICK LOCATOR Baxter Station Bar and Grill www.baxterstation.com 1201 Payne Street, 584-1635 Bluegrass Brewing Company www.bbcbrew.com 3929 Shelbyville Road, 899-7070 660 South Fourth Street, 568-2224 636 East Main Street, 584-2739

Carly Rae’s www.carlyraes.com 103 West Oak Street, 365-1003

Monkey Wrench www.themonkeywrench.net 1025 Barret Avenue, 582-2433

Come Back Inn www.comebackinn.net 415 Spring Street, Jeffersonville, IN (812) 285-1777

Nachbar www.myspace.com/thenachbar 969 Charles Street, 637-4377

Cumberland Brews 1576 Bardstown Road, 458-8727

BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse www.bjsbrewhouse.com 7900 Shelbyville Road, 326-3850

Derby City Espresso www.myspace.com/derbycityespresso 331 East Market Street, 442-0523

Brendan’s Restaurant & Pub www.osheaslouisville.com 3921 Shelbyville Road, 895-1212

Flanagan’s Ale House www.osheaslouisville.com 934 Baxter Avenue, 585-3700

Browning’s Restaurant & Brewery www.diningonmain.com 401East Main Street, 515-0174

Irish Rover www.theirishroverky.com 2319 Frankfort Avenue, 899-3544 117 E. Main St., Lagrange, KY 222-2286

Buckhead Mountain Grill www.eatatbuckheads.com 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN (812) 284-2919 Café Lou Lou www.cafeloulou.com 106 Sears Avenue, 893-7776

26 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

New Albanian Brewing Co. www.newalbanian.com 3312 Plaza Drive, New Albany, IN (812) 949-2804 O’Shea’s Irish Pub www.osheaslouisville.com 956 Baxter Avenue, 589-7373 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza www.oldchicago.com 9010 Taylorsville Road, 301-7700 Pub Louisville www.tavernrestaurantgroup.com 412 South Fourth Street, 569-7782

Maido Essential Japanese www.maidosakebar.com 1758 Frankfort Avenue, 894-8775

Sergio’s World Beers www.sergiosworldbeers.com 2414 Shelbyville Rd., Shelbyville, KY 647-6060

Molly Malone’s www.mollymalonesirishpub.com 933 Baxter Avenue, 473-1222

Za’s Pizza Pub www.zaspizza.com 1573 Bardstown Road, 454-4544


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European styles, and equally solid micros from Great Lakes (Ohio), Anderson Valley (California) and various breweries in Colorado. Many foodies know Café Lou Lou for its highly acclaimed Big Easy-influenced food, but Clay Wallace and the gang are equally committed to locally brewed craft beers on draft, alongside numerous North American craft beers in bottles. In fact, imports per se are not to be found, and that’s unique … and gutsy. A second location is slated for the Dundee Loop area, and may be open by the time you read this. Perhaps roughly comparable in overall intent to Café Lou Lou is the Monkey Wrench on Barret Avenue, with ales from Bell’s frequently on draft. First there were hand-selected coffees calibrated for the hardcore of the caffeinated, and then came a growing bottled beer list. Now Derby City Espresso’s owner, Matthew Landan, works closely with Bluegrass Brewing (Main and Clay) to craft a unique and evolving house ale, an espresso-infused stout.There is a seemingly endless slate of music and other events at DCE’s digs on the burgeoning Market Street corridor downtown.

Metro Odds & Ends Right across Bardstown Road from Cumberland Brews, Za’s Pizza Pub has a bottled beer list strong on Belgian, English and German selections. In Old Louisville, Carly Rae’s bears watching, with an excellent patio

and an evolving bottled beer list that includes top-shelf Belgians. The Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza franchise in J’town serves 110 brews with 24 on tap. The beer list always leans heavily toward the light, golden, international lager-by-country approach, but there are just enough interesting microbrews offered to merit inclusion. Across the bridge in Jeffersonville, Indiana, the riverside Buckhead Mountain Grill offers an above-average microbrewed tap selection and killer Happy Hour draft pricing, but the best kegged lineup by far is at the Come Back Inn, where the owner is not afraid to dispense bigger and bolder microbrews and usually has one or two Belgians pouring.

Road Trip to Beer Heaven Sergio’s World Beers makes its home in Shelbyville, roughly a half-hour’s drive from Louisville. As of June, 2008, the impossibly welltraveled and multi-lingual owner — Sergio says he must sample all new beers coming across the threshold with an eye toward suitability — had 642 different bottled beers from 48 countries, including slightly less than half from the United States. A dozen drafts rotate constantly, the kitchen’s pride and joy is a messy Philly cheese steak, the atmosphere is casual and unpretentious, and in the end, the story of Sergio’s is inseparable from its relative isolation well outside the city limits of Louisville. A highly recommended road trip. F&D

Come Back Inn’s Italian Beef Combo: Italian sausage and marinated roast beef on a hoagie roll topped with hot giardiniera.

NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. You may have noticed that one major metro-area beer establishment has been omitted here. That’s because Roger Baylor, as publican of the New Albanian Brewing Co., is too modest to blow his own horn. Fortunately, we are by no means loath to blow it for him. Arguably offering the best beer selection in the region, NABC brews its own craft beers, hosts a remarkable selection of national and international artisanal beers on tap and in bottle, and offers excellent pizzas that many critics rank among the region’s best. The name game is somewhat confusing here: Spor tstime Pizza opened in this location in 1987 and was followed by the adjoining Rich O’s Public House in 1990. In 2002, the facilities became jointly identified as the New Albanian Brewing Company, but no one will be confused if you announce that you’re going over to Rich O’s. The pizzeria and pub occupy separate , adjoining quarters in the building that also houses NABC’s brewery, but feel free to sit down on either side: It’s possible to order both the beer and the pizza and other goodies at both ends of the building. And now there’s more good news: NABC will open a second location, New Albanian Brewing Co. Bank Street Brewhouse at 415 Bank Street in downtown New Albany, by late summer or fall. In addition to food and beer, this expansion will make it possible for NABC to distribute its beer in kegs to bars and pubs throughout Louisville and Southern Indiana. www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 27


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entertaining pizza party

BY TIM LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Grilled Pizza Party An easy and fun way to entertain a few or a crowd Want to meet a real party animal? Louisville’s Tim Laird has thrown more than 15,000 parties in his life! “We’re ‘The Entertaining Couple,’ ” laughs his wife Lori. Their business is the entertaining business, as he serves as “Chief Entertaining Officer” (jokingly abbreviated “CEO”) for Louisville’s Brown-Forman Corp. Featured in this issue is a Backyard Pizza Piazza party that the Lairds put together earlier this summer for a production crew of CNBC. In this memorable event, Laird demonstrated a tasty and surprisingly easy variation on a traditional theme: He makes pizzas by searing them on his backyard grill. “You’ll be amazed how easy it is to make your own dough and how light, thin and crispy it gets when you grill it outside,” says Lori. “Not only does grilling give it a hint of smoky flavor, it also keeps your house cool by not having to heat up the oven in your kitchen. Guests love to get involved, and this is one of the best parts about having a backyard pizza party.” “Depending on the size of your par ty your friends can roll their own,” adds Tim. Tim loves to show folks how to mix his signature cocktails and other drinks … made with Brown-Forman products, of course. “We always suggest starting a party with a signature cocktail. This is something that can be offered in addition to beer, wine, soft drinks, and helps set a festive mood and tone for the party.” For this party, Tim created the Tuscan Fresh off the grill and loaded with fr esh flavor. Pesto sauce with chicken Twist “with the flavors and mozzarella cheese. Tomato sauce with goat cheese and basil. Oliv e of Italy.” The Lairds oil with caramelized onions, blue cheese and r osemary sprigs. also suggest serving Italian wines in “shell” glasses. “These are what we would consider small juice-size glasses and what oldcountry Italians drink their wine from,” said Lori, “not the stems and goblets we’re used to in this country.” The same size is used for both red and white, she said.“Pull out your juice glasses or buy some inexpensive ones and start enjoying your wine in a new way.” 28 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com


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Ti m e l i n e 1 day ahead Shop for groceries Set up wine bar Make lemonade Chop vegetables for antipasto Make vinaigrette for antipasto Defrost dough if purchased frozen

Morning of the party Make dough Make tomato sauce Make pitcher of Tuscan Twist Prep pizza toppings and place in individual bowls for easy access

4 hours ahead Roll dough Toss antipasto

Just before the party Set out the antipasto Set pizza ingredients near the grill Make coffee, put in thermos Check beverage stations Turn on your playlist

During appetizers Preheat grill

Shopping List Quick-rise yeast, 2 packages per dough recipe Cornmeal 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes Blue cheese Fresh rosemary sprigs Pesto sauce Cooked chicken Shredded mozzarella cheese Goat cheese 1 bunch fresh basil 2 red peppers 2 yellow peppers 1 bunch asparagus 14-ounce can artichoke hearts, quartered

25 small mozzarella balls 20 olives, pimiento-stuffed, pitted 1 pound pepperoni 1 bunch fresh parsley Lemonade Orange Liqueur Tuaca Chianti Pinot Grigio Also pick up if not in y our pantry Flour Olive oil 1 garlic bulb 2 onions Cooking spray Cider vinegar Dried oregano

Tuscan Twist Two Cocktails: 3 ounces Tuaca Italian Liqueur 6 ounces lemonade 1 ounce Orange Liqueur Shake with ice, pour into glass and garnish with lemon twist.

Party Playlist Ideas ‘Big Night’ Soundtrack ‘Moonstruck’ Soundtrack ‘Eh, Paisano! 100% ItalianAmerican Classics’ ‘Mob Hits’ ‘Mob Hits II’ ‘Italian Love Songs’ by Dean Martin

By the pitcher: Using the ratio of: 1 part Tuaca 2 parts lemonade 1 /3 part Orange Liqueur Stir all ingredients in a pitcher, serve over ice.

www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 29


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â–˛

Antipasto

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(Serves 10-12)

2 red peppers, sliced 2 yellow peppers, sliced 1 large bunch asparagus, 3-inch spears, blanched 25 fresh mozzarella balls, small, drained 1 14-ounce can artichoke hearts, quartered 25 olives, pimiento-stuffed, pitted 1 pound pepperoni or summer sausage, cubed

Vinaigrette 1

/3 cup cider vinegar /4 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons oregano, dried 1 teaspoon sugar 1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 /4 teaspoon black pepper 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1

Whisk all vinaigrette ingredients together. Pour over vegetables and marinate for a minimum of two hours in the refrigerator.

Pizza Dough R ecipe

Pizza Sauce

(Makes 4-5 10" pizzas)

28-ounce can crushed tomatoes 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tablespoons sugar

4 cups bread flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 2 packages quick-rise yeast 1 1/2 cups warm water (120 to 130 degrees) 2 tablespoon olive oil Cooking spray 4 tablespoons cornmeal Combine first four ingredients into a large food processor or bread mixer. Mix until dough forms a ball, about f our to five minutes. Place the dough in a lar ge bowl coated with cooking spray, turning to coat top. Cover and let rise in a warm place (85 degrees), free from drafts, 45 minutes or until doubled in bulk. Punch dough down; divide in half. Cover and let dough rest 10 minutes. Working with one portion at a time ( cover remaining dough to keep from drying out), roll each portion into a 10-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Place dough on pizza pans each sprinkled with one tablespoon c ornmeal.

Pour crushed tomatoes into a large bowl and add salt, garlic cloves and sugar. Mix and store in refrigerator until ready to use.

TIME SAVER TIP An alternative to making your own dough is buying it from your local grocery store or mark et, oft en in the form of frozen dough balls. Simply f ollow the directions on defr osting and you are ready to roll. No need t o worry about a perf ect circular dough, free-form is best.


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Grilling the Pizzas

 Olive oil with caramelized onions, blue cheese, rosemary sprigs.  Pesto sauce with chicken (buy the already cooked chicken, remove the skin and shred), mozzarella cheese.  Tomato sauce with goat cheese and basil.  BBQ Chicken pizza — your favorite BBQ sauce, grilled chicken, diced green onions and mozzarella cheese.  Crisp bacon, smoked mozzarella cheese and onions.  Pesto with shrimp, roasted red and yellow peppers.  Roasted eggplant, sweet peppers, caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese.

On medium heat, place dough on clean grill gr ates (mos t grills will ac commodate tw o or mor e pizzas) f or about 2 -3 minut es; check to make sure it has slightly browned. Turn crus t o ver, brush with olive oil, t op with sauc e (if using one), toppings and finally cheese. Grill with lid do wn for another 15-20 minutes or until cheese has melted. Check bott om of crus t periodically t o mak e sur e it does not burn.

 Olive oil with fresh mozzarella, sliced tomatoes, ParmigianoReggiano and basil.  Sautéed mushrooms (pan sear these ahead of time, taking out the water to avoid making pizzas soggy).  Sausage (roll the sausage in flour and then pan sear these ahead of time, this cuts down on the grease).  Cheese — for a healthier option or for those who are lactose intolerant try Smart Balance mozzarella found in most grocery stores. Hint Less is more. Don’t overload your pizza with toppings. Too many toppings will cause your pie to get soggy and hard to remove from the grill.

Pizza Topping Ideas

GRILLING TIPS Don’t be in a hurry t o turn — Once you place your dough on the grill, lea ve it alone until it ’s time to turn it, about 3-4 minutes. Keep a lid on it — Every time y ou look under the lid, y ou lose heat and smok e which giv es y our f ood that grilling flavor. Keep your grates seasoned — Brush with oil after each use.


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recipes louisville’s restaurant favorites

Bourbons Bistro’s

W

What inspires a talented chef to create a totally new recipe? Is it the summertime abundance of local produce? Or the sudden availability of a new kind of produce on the local market? In the case of Bourbons Bistro Executive Chef Michael Crouch’s Duck Confit Strudel, the inspiration came from Food & Dining magazine. Two summers ago, we approached Chef Crouch and asked that he create a recipe featuring hot chile peppers, to run in the Fall 2006 issue of the magazine. In response, he and his crew came up with a stylish, European-style duck confit strudel with wild mushrooms, shallots, fresh goat cheese and candied chilies. Added to the Bourbons Bistro menu as an appetizer, the item soon became a favorite, and has remained on the menu to this day — one of the restaurant’s most popular items. Diners “who aren’t afraid of duck” enjoy its complex flavors, Crouch told us. “And those who are familiar with duck confit appreciate the time and effort that goes into the creation of a dish like this.” But why duck confit with chilies? “I just pulled it out of my head,” said Crouch, who is classically trained in French cuisine and had prepared and used confit many times in other restaurants. At the time though, he had not done it at Bourbons Bistro — and using chilies with it inspired him. “It just happened to work very well for this dish,” he said. The peppers have varied, of course, Crouch adds, since they’re fresh local produce and change with the season.“Farmers bring me peppers,” he told us. “And I grow them myself.” The goat cheese in the recipe is from Capriole Farm in Greenville, Ind.

32 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

BY ROBIN GARR | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

duck

confit strudel


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Duck Confit Strudel (SERVES 6) For the Duck Confit: 4 duck legs 1 /8 cup coarse sea salt Fresh thyme 6-9 bay leaves 8 cups rendered duck fat (available at Creation Gardens and other specialty food markets) Assorted chiles (Hungarian wax peppers, banana peppers, poblanos) 1 /4 pound butter (divided) 3 tablespoons sugar 3 /4 cup apple cider vinegar 1 /4 cup water 1 /2 pound oyster mushrooms 6 shallots, chopped (divided)

"I love a grand hotel. I adore sweeping into a lavish lobby that looks like it came straight from a 1930s movie set." – SOUTHERN LIVING

“The English Grill has emerged as the finest restaurant in the city.” – WINE SPECTATOR

Rub the duck legs with coarse sea salt, bay leaf and fresh thyme. Put it all in a large bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours. Pan sear the duck legs until golden brown. Put the duck fat in a large sauce pan, bring to a simmer, put in the duck legs and cook for about 2 hours, until fork-tender. Remove duck legs from the fat and let cool, then pull the meat off the bone. Julienne the assorted chiles and sauté them in a small amount of the butter. Add sugar, vinegar, and water. Cook down until all liquid is gone. Preheat a skillet over medium-high heat then add butter. Add oyster mushrooms and half the chopped shallots and sauté until tender. For 1 8 2

the Strudel: pound package phyllo dough ounces fresh goat cheese ounces fresh arugula

Cover a sheet tray with parchment paper and layer with phyllo dough, brushing each layer of the dough with melted butter.You’ll use about 8 sheets. On one end of the stack of buttered phyllo place the duck, goat cheese, candied chiles, arugula, roasted shallots and sautéed oyster mushrooms. Roll up the phyllo and filling in the shape of a log, pinch its ends closed and brush the top with butter. Bake at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes or until golden brown.

THE

ENGLISH

GRILL

All your favorite libations in a stunning turn-of-the-century setting. THE GRAND LOBBY BAR

For the Sauce: 1 /8 cup Sherry 2 cups heavy cream Salt Black pepper Sauté the remaining shallots until golden in the remaining butter. Add the Sherry and cream and bring to a simmer. Reduce until it is thick enough to coat the back of spoon. Salt and pepper to taste. F&D

DOWNTOWN AT FOURTH & BROADWAY (502) 583-1234 • www.brownhotel.com www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 33


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people and places profiles

BY KEVIN GIBSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Big changes in four of the best-known restaurants on Louisville’s dining scene have tur ned something old into something new in the city. ◆ Sleek, exciting RIVUE now crowns the Galt

Mazzoni’s Café, in business since 1884 —

House Hotel like a jewel fit for the city’s

the city’s second-oldest continuously oper-

crown, replacing the romantic but severely

ating restaurant — moved in February to a

dated scene of the old Flagship.

shiny new space in Middletown and nearly

◆ Jarfi’s Bistro has moved out of the Kentucky

doubled its size. But the original scene feels

Center, taking up new digs in the strikingly

familiar as the original antique walnut bar

renovated former home of Lentini’s.

has been installed — not to mention the

◆ Mazzoni’s has moved its trademark rolled oysters and hearty pub grub to suburban Middletown. ◆ After a round of moves through other local eateries, Chef Rick Adams has retur ned to the L&N Wine Bar and Bistro. Save for the Ohio River view, scar cely

trademark rolled oyster , a treat that the family brought over from the old country. Rick Adams, L&N’s original chef, has brought back his much-loved signature dishes — and added new ones to accompany L&N’s top-tier wine program. Finally, restaurateur Jeff Jarfi has opened an eye-popping new destination behind

a trace of developer Al Schneider’s old

the familiar stone façade of Lentini’s on

Flagship restaurant remains. RIVUE, with its

Bardstown Road. He offers patrons a multi-

ultra-modern décor and contemporary

themed dining experience that reflects

gourmet cuisine, has taken its place as a

the wide inter national background of a

happy result of major renovations through-

restaurateur from Morocco who’s also

out the riverside hotel.

been at home in Paris and New Y ork.

34 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com


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people and places profiles

BY KEVIN GIBSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

RIVUE

Galt House

589-5200 140 North Fourth Street

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Mary Mosley knew years before opening RIVUE that the Galt House needed a new restaurant to be its flagship. Mosley, the daughter of businessman and philanthropist Al Schneider, who opened the hotel in 1972, took over operating his businesses upon Schneider’s passing in 2001. “Before he died, he said ‘We’re in pretty good shape,’” Mosley recalled. “We knew we weren’t, but we didn’t say anything. When he passed, we knew we had to renovate the entire property.” Renovate it she did. Except for the view of the Ohio River and the two rotating portions of the space, scarcely a trace of the former restaurant, Flagship, remains. The fruit of Mosley’s labor is RIVUE, an upscale restaurant with ultra-modern décor and contemporary gourmet cuisine, a concept far from what previously occupied the space at the top of the Galt House.

“It’s an exciting change,” Mosley said, “and just very much ‘New York in Louisville’ — a very clean, sleek look, a beautiful view — and the food is outstanding.” Renovating the Galt House and its restaurant wasn’t just a simple facelift. It was a full-blown $60 million remake of a Downtown Louisville classic. The Flagship had fallen behind other upscale restaurants around town, Mosley admitted, and simply wasn’t keeping pace with Louisville’s vibrant contemporary dining scene. “Before, the menu was more my dad’s,” said Mosley. It was “hearty, heavy food — something you would want on a cold winter day, but [served] all year around.” Although the new menu does revolve around the traditional staples of steak and seafood, it now has a contemporary flair, boasting a number of signature dishes and appetizers, a tapas

Mary Mosley, owner of The Galt House and its rooftop restaurant RIVUE.


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menu, and a surprise at the end of each meal — a candy cart that comes to each table with complimentary sweets to end the meal. (If you’re too full, you can take your candy home with you, said Mosley.) When it was time to design RIVUE’s menu, Mosley sent her staff off on a junket to Chicago — a town that takes its dining seriously — and told them to eat wherever they wanted and as much as they wanted, so long as they came back with plenty of ideas for the restaurant. The result? Eclectic, cutting-edge items like Tyrrhenian sea bass; a roasted vine-ripened tomato filled with goat cheese and golden raisins and topped with basil oil and daikon micro greens; a Dungeness crabmeat croquette; and lamb osso buco — just a few of Mosley’s favorites on RIVUE’s bill of fare. Presentation has been painstakingly developed as well, said Mosley. For the Asparagus Bisque, fresh asparagus is brought to your table, then the waiter pours crab bisque over it while you watch. Interior design bids for creating the new RIVUE look were reviewed “blindly.” Hubbuch & Company designer Linda Hubbuch won the contract — a particularly interesting turn of events, said Mosley, given that Hubbuch’s father-in-law was a close friend of Schneider and had a hand in helping Schneider open the Galt House originally. To jumpstart the re-design process, Mosley and her staff searched magazines for photographs that showed the kind of look they wanted for RIVUE. Hubbuch’s designers took it from there. The old captain’s wheel and chandelier are now memories. The interior of the restaurant now sports a sleek modern black and white design, with bold red accents. “My father’s favorite color was red,” Mosley said. Above all though, is the view, which is key, of course. So the old brown railing that used to run along the windows has been removed. “It just kind of cut the view,” Mosley said. “Now the view goes from ceiling to floor, and it is so much prettier. You wouldn’t think it would make that much difference but it really does.” The old glass in the windows has been replaced with safety glass. Architect Glenn Hubbuch said the final design helped him and Linda coin the term “contempo-deco.” Ornamentation was minimized, he said — “that’s why the design is very clean and simple.” Paring back the design was intentional, he said, in order to make the view the focal point of the restaurant. The restaurant’s name is tied to the view as well.The name “RIVUE” — the result of a contest among employees — was submitted by Rita Reedy. It’s the abbreviation found in real estate ads, and stands for “River View.” RIVUE certainly has that. The view ahead looks promising.The double-rotating restaurant is once again at the top of its game, having come, well, full circle. RIVUE’s Tyrrhenian Sea Bass


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people and places profiles

Jar fi’s

L

BY KEVIN GIBSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Bistro

589-5060 1543 Bardstown Road

Lentini’s Little Italy was a Louisville landmark for more than 40 years. In a way, it was the hub of Louisville’s dining scene, especially in its early days — an ever-present old friend in a gray stone structure on Bardstown Road. But it fell on hard times. It changed hands four times in seven years before finally closing for good. Today Chef Jeff Jarfi is out to make that spot a Louisville dining hub once more. Always ready for a new challenge, Jarfi has turned the old Lentini’s spot into the new Jarfi’s Bistro, moving it this past spring from its home in the Kentucky Center to the Bardstown Road venue. Family-owned and possessing an Old World charm, Lentini’s served up hear ty Italian fare in an upscale atmosphere and became an icon, serving as almost a de facto destination for prom parties, anniversary celebrations and family dinners. But when owner Sonny Lentini retired, the restaurant began to stumble. In 2001, Lentini sold it to Café Mimosa’s Phat Le, who

38 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

Chef-Owner Jeff Jarfi

experimented with adding an alternate Vietnamese menu to Lentini’s traditional Italian dishes. This approach was not well received. In 2003, Le leased the location to restaurateurs Kerry Wells and Jeff Grubb. The pair appeared to have brought Lentini’s back to its former charm, winning high marks with critics and diners. After what seemed a successful 21/2-year run, a falling-out between the two ended with the doors closing. Two more short-lived attempts under other operators lasted about a year each. Leasing the building last March, Jarfi is breathing life back into the beloved Bardstown Road destination, sparing the familiar space the indignity of becoming a New Age gift shop or consignment clothing store. Jarfi said he had wanted to move his Bistro from its location in the Kentucky Center for the Arts because “there was no traffic there.” When the old Lentini’s location became available, he said, it


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offered a prime opportunity. “To be honest, it’s a landmark and everyone knows it,” Jarfi said. “It was really easy to say, ‘Jarfi’s is now where Lentini’s used to be,’ because everyone in Louisville between the age of 20 and the age of 70 knew where it was. Plus, we loved the look of the building.” The exterior of the restaurant remains virtually unchanged, but business is bustling behind that familiar stone façade now. Inside, the old Lentini’s — with its dark red walls and heavy drapes, ornate chandeliers, mirrors and Italianate art — has been transformed. “We did a lot — we did tons of changes,” Jarfi said. “You wouldn’t know it if you walked inside. The decor is completely different.” Inside the old Lentini’s the new Jarfi’s Bistro pops with color, its walls a brilliant yellow, the decor modern and exciting. Originally from Morocco, Jarfi has lived all over the world, including Paris and New York, and he has brought that international flavor to the new eatery, creating a multi-themed experience in his new digs. Five different concept restaurants greet diners: • A French bistro, with white tablecloths and potted herbs on the tables, and a bar decorated with colorful retro wine and liqueur posters and modern, brightly-colored chairs. • A “Moroccan-style lounge,” as Jarfi calls it, up the stairs past the bar, where diners can sip cocktails while they wait for a table. • A sushi bar with a sea theme which works nicely within the

Jarfi’s mussels poached in white wine, ginger, basil and cilantro, served with grilled pita.

overall “international” concept. Besides dining at the sushi bar, patrons in other parts of the restaurants may order a sushi appetizer. • An elegant dining room where Jarfi plans to hold wine dinners and other special-event meals and engagements. • A private dining area with a Times Square theme — the walls hung with New-York photos and art, and four clocks set to different time zones, just like in Times Square.This room holds 70 or 80 diners and can be reserved for private parties and special occasions. The purpose of the many different themes throughout the restaurant, said Jarfi, is to offer diners varied dining experiences. This concept shows up in the menu as well, which reflects Jarfi’s love for many different types of cuisine. “It’s a cultural menu,” he said. “It’s not Italian food like Lentini’s, but it’s an international restaurant. So far, people like it.” In the old Lentini’s location, Jarfi seems to have found just the right home for his restaurant. And he can enjoy the knowledge that, in a way, he is preserving a Louisville dining tradition. “The thing Lentini’s was known for was good food, good prices and good service,” he said. “That’s what we’re trying to do. The response from the community has been unbelievable. We were lucky to find this location and we’re happy we can preserve the structure.”


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people and places profiles

L&N Wine

W

BY KEVIN GIBSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Bar and Bistro

897-0070 1765 Mellwood Avenue

When Chef Rick Adams returned to L&N Wine Bar and Bistro back in May, he not only rejoined his longtime friends Len and Nancy Stevens, who own the restaurant, he also found another old friend awaiting him — the menu. Adams was L&N’s chef when the restaurant opened in November 2003, and upon his return he found the selections still bore a strong resemblance to the bill of fare he left behind when he went on to pursue other projects in the fall of 2006. “There were things people liked so much we didn’t want to take them off,” said Nancy Stevens. “So he came back basically to his own menu.” Having known Adams for years through their connections at Zephyr Cove, Stevens said it was a no-brainer that he would help them open L&N and create the diverse menu. His return wasn’t

much different. L&N needed someone to take charge of the menu and kitchen after former chef Matthew Purzycki departed; Adams was looking for a change, and fate stepped in. “It just sort of fell into place,” Nancy said.“The timing worked out.” L&N, which is in an historic old farmhouse in Clifton, boasts one of the best wine lists in the state. With one of the country’s largest Cruvinet wine dispensing systems, with 54 taps, the establishment can offer more than 80 wines by the glass. Moreover, Len Stevens is one of the city’s leading wine experts, and he is pursuing advanced sommelier certification. Five of the Cruvinet taps are reserved for the daily “feature card,” special wines chosen by Len Stevens that can be sold by the glass or by the two-ounce taste. Glasses in this feature generally

Restaurant owners Len and Nancy Stevens with returning Chef Rick Adams (right). 40


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Spice-rubbed shrimp with duck fat-crisped fingerling potatoes, yellow tomato coulis and long beans, topped with a lobster salad.


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people and places profiles

L&N’s seared salmon over sun-dried tomato spaetzle with a morel and arugula ragout.

42 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

BY KEVIN GIBSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY


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sell between $15 and $20, while tastes typically cost between $5 and $8. “It’s a nice opportunity for people to try higher-end wines” which they may not want to buy as a bottle, Len Stevens said. Most bottle selections are available by the taste or by the glass, with tastes ranging from roughly $2.50 to $6, and glasses between $6 and $15, depending on what is on the list at that given moment. L&N’s list is always impressive and varied, making the experience a wine lover’s adventure. A recent look at the list showed 16 different varieties of reds, 16 varieties of whites and blushes, and a number of sparkling wines as well. Few restaurants can promise an experience in which one can taste a Spanish Merlot, a Bordeaux blend by Chateau Davril and a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc — all for nine bucks. This is a practice that has been in place since the restaurant’s inception, and it continues to be well received by patrons, consistently bringing diners and wine lovers back while also netting L&N awards of excellence from Wine Spectator magazine on an annual basis since 2004. And it provides plenty of variety to complement the dishes Adams creates in the kitchen. However, now dining traditions at L&N are changing. Extensive menu changes are already taking place. The menu has “been essentially the same, with minor seasonal changes” since the restaurant opened, Adams said. “I’m trying to change the focus on the menu. There will be some core items that will stay, and I will run some [current staples] as specials.”

“ We also want to keep it

interesting, but you don’t have to have a degree in food science to understand the menu. ”

Adams discussed his desire to change the menu with the Stevenses before he agreed to return, Len said, adding,“It was probably his only apprehension about coming back.”They discussed it, he said, and Len and Nancy both agreed a change was probably a good idea. “I have complete faith and confidence in Rick’s creative abilities,” Len said. “We’re really blowing the menu up, honestly.” Many new dishes this summer feature tomato varieties from the restaurant’s on-site garden. Diners can also expect home-grown meat — and local fresh vegetables, too, during the growing season. “We’re switching to local Kentucky producers — pretty much anything I can get locally,” Adams said. Having Adams back in the fold has been “great,” Len said. “Rick really gets the kind of food I’m trying to do, and he’s very creative. We don’t want to be too high end — we want to keep it within reach. “We also want to keep it interesting, but you don’t have to have a degree in food science to understand the menu,” he added.“We sweat and grind” over all the menu items, Len continued. “They’re all our children.” To help diners during current economic conditions, items on L&N’s new “Recession Menu” run just $10 to $15. There’s also the “Five at Five” — between 5 and 7 p.m. weekdays, diners can enjoy select $5 appetizers, martinis and wines. Reinvention never gets old, and it’s often necessary for survival. Adams’ return looks like an ideal new direction for an old Louisville favorite. www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 43


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people and places profiles

Mazzoni’s

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Mazzoni’s Café, in business since 1884, is the city’s second-oldest continuously operating restaurant. For more than a century, Mazzoni’s was a fixture in downtown Louisville until urban renewal forced its relocation to Taylorsville Road. This past spring, Mazzoni’s moved to Middletown, where owner Greg Haner is re-creating the feel of the historic Louisville mainstay in a new suburban location. To most Louisvillians, Mazzoni’s is synonymous with the rolled oyster — a baseballsized morsel consisting of three oysters rolled in special batter and deep fried. It is up for debate as to whether the rolled oyster is an original Louisville cuisine — there have been claims this seafood treat originated in Italy, from where founder Phillip Mazzoni came to America in the early 1880s — but there’s no debating that the breaded oyster sandwich is a staple of the River City, courtesy of Mazzoni’s Café. In the early days of Mazzoni’s, it was a watering hole, a place to meet and drink beer — the rolled oysters, in fact, came free with your brew. “Back in the day, oysters were dir t cheap,” Haner said. However, environmental and other factors have drained the capacity for growing oysters successfully. “Most oysters come from Virginia,” Haner explained,“and they used to be called Chesapeake Bay oysters because that was the cold-water oyster. Now they call them Eastern Shore, because cold-water oysters having a harder time making it.” But the rolled oyster of yesteryear actually helped Mazzoni’s survive Prohibition. When beer suddenly could no longer be the staple, the then-owners began charging for the oysters, as their clientele had come to love them nearly as much as they loved their beer.The rolled oyster helped Mazzoni’s survive.

44 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

BY KEVIN GIBSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Oyster Café

451- 4436 12003 Shelbyville Road

Mazzoni’s famous rolled oysters.


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While much has changed, however, Haner knows that the After Mazzoni’s landed on Taylorsville Road across from Bowman Field in the 1980s, it became a neighborhood landmark rolled oyster will always be his calling card. Other restaurants serve rolled oysters, but he says Mazzoni’s secret batter — which that lasted until this past spring. “We did a good job there maximizing that location,” said Haner. yields plump oysters steaming and full of flavor inside the “But you had an airport backed up by a golf course backed up by breading — makes them originals. “I’ve got a unique product,” he admitted, “and the only a park. People were there but they weren’t living there. So I moved to where there are people.”The new location, at 12003 Shelbyville place you’ll find one as good as mine is here. There’s only one Mazzoni’s rolled oyster.” F&D Road, is in a busy area with residential developments all around. Twice the size of the Taylorsville Road location at nearly 2,000 square feet, the new Mazzoni’s also boasts a 40-person outdoor dining patio. Outside it’s a sleek new building, but inside, it still feels like the old Mazzoni’s. Much of the original restaurant has been transported over to the new space, so the venue will still feel familiar to long-time customers. Its original oak bar runs along the back — the big mirrored back bar with its antique tin roof is there too. And “we kept some of the artifacts and handbills,” Haner said. An added bonus of the move is that Mazzoni’s can really be a bar again, just like the old days, and Haner says he’s intentionally moving it in that direction. (Because of its proximity to Air Devil’s Inn, it had not been able to have a liquor license in its Taylorsville Road location.) At the same time, he’s working to change the reputation of being primarily a lunch place that it gained on Taylorsville Road. Now Haner is focusing on dinner, too. Rolled oysters are Mazzoni’s signature item, but Haner, whose mother was a Mazzoni and who took over the business from his father about 12 years ago, is quick to point out that only about a quarter of his guests even like oysters, which means Mazzoni’s can’t simply rest on its breaded and fried laurels. “Even though it’s the mainstay, you have to market to the masses,” he said. And Mazzoni’s isn’t just about oysters, he insists. There’s homemade ravioli, white bean soup — a specialty — and chili. Haner has also added a Philly cheese steak to the menu, along with fried fish tacos, and said he would put his Fourth-generation restaurateur Greg Haner. homestyle vegetables up against anyone’s. He Above, a Mazzoni’s oyster shooter. noted that up to 15 fresh vegetables will be offered daily, whether it’s fried green tomatoes, fresh corn or asparagus. “If it’s fresh, that’s what’s on the menu,” he said. www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 45


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BY ROBIN GARR

Golf & Wine Some pros are teeing it up in the wine busines s

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What do golf and wine have in common? Quite a few top golf pros are getting into the wine business. With Louisville hosting the Ryder Cup this summer, it’s a great time to try some of the wines made by golf professionals. Golf celebs Greg Norman and Arnold Palmer, South Africa’s Ernie Els, and Australia’s David Frost and Nick Faldo, pros who love wine and winemaking, all have a hand in the wine business to varying degrees. Some are simply wine-loving golfers who lend their name to a commercial wine label. But others are seriously involved in all facets of winemaking, from growing the grapes to selecting the blends. Some pros partner with well-known vintners to put out their wine. A few have purchased wineries outright. One of the most successful golfing wine makers is Aussie pro Greg Norman, who reportedly got the winemaking bug when he visited California’s wine country in the 1970s. Like most of the golf pros whose names now adorn wine labels, Norman is not himself a winemaker. Unlike South Africa’s Ernie Els, Norman does not own any vineyards, either. His name on the label of “Greg Norman Estate” wines, says his website, www.gregnormanestateswine.com, signals that “nothing happens without his approval. … His taste determines the style of every bottling made.” When he was still in his early twenties, the story goes, Norman got a taste for California Chardonnays when he was introduced to wine by a friend. It was a revelation, he says, after growing up in Australia as a “big beer drinker.” Discovering that he liked wine better with meals, Norman began to explore the grapey beverage, expanding his wine education as he toured on the European golf circuit in 1977. Today most of Norman’s wines are produced by Foster’s, the largest beverage company in Australia. Norman reportedly negotiated a joint-venture deal so he would have an equity stake in the wines. He is said to involve himself in every aspect of the wine-making process, from tastings and marketing meetings to the design of the wine labels. The Greg Norman Estates Shiraz, Shiraz-Cabernet and Cabernet-Merlot are all made in Australia’s Limestone Coast region. Since 2001, the Shiraz Reserve has also been from Limestone Coast. The Chardonnay carries a Victoria designation, primarily using grapes from Yarra Valley, a cooler Australian winegrowing region that aims for an elegant style. Norman recently branched out by adding a California property: Greg Norman California Estates, released in 2006, made at Beringer in Napa Valley, include a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara County, a Petite Sirah from Paso Robles and a Lake County Zinfandel. 46 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

With production of over 80,000 bottles a year from the California property and well over twice that for those produced by Foster’s, his brand is the largest and most well-known of the golf-wine labels. Greg Norman Estates Shiraz Reserve, the top price wine, retails in the $50 neighborhood. His non-reserve Australian wines retail at a more affordable $15 to $20. Arnold Palmer has lent his highly recognizable name to a series of wines produced at Luna Vineyards, a Napa Valley winery co-owned by Palmer’s friend Mike Moone. Arnold Palmer Wines include California Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. “It’s fun to think you are a part of something you enjoy so much,” Palmer told Napa Sonoma Magazine last summer. The wines range in the $10 to $20 range; the 2005 Arnold Palmer Wines Cabernet Sauvignon is currently retailing in Kentucky for $12.95. In South Africa, wine and golf have been brought together by vintner Jean Engelbrecht and golf pro Ernie Els. Engelbrecht, who runs Rust en Vrede, one of South Africa’s top wineries, began a joint venture with fellow South African Els in 1999, creating Engelbrecht Els Vineyards and recruiting respected South African winemaker Louis Strydom to create the Ernie Els wine, a classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.The wine was first released in 2004 when the Ernie Els Winery opened in the Stellenbosch region, on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain. The Engelbrecht Els vineyards’ location on the mountain’s northern slopes lets fruit ripen slowly; summer breezes from the nearby Atlantic ocean cool the air and extend the growing period. A British online wine merchant gave the Els Stellenbosch Red Wine a glowing report: “a Brick red coloured wine with an


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austere, cedar and pencil shavings bouquet with spicey undertones from the Shiraz component. As the wine opens up wildflower aromas can be found. Black fruit flavours are prevalent on the palate, while a delightful richness likened to Christmas cake is evident. … great intensity experienced on the front and mid-palates.” The wine has received international critical acclaim and high ratings, as well as some of South Africa’s most prestigious accolades, such as five-star ratings in recent editions of the John Platter Wine Guide. Not widely available in the United States, Els’ wine runs $50 to $75 when it can be found. Another South African golf pro, David Frost, is involved with his family’s wine business which has been in South Africa for more than 60 years. His father’s vineyard was the first place he hit golf balls, and he says the pocket money he made from picking grapes funded his first set of clubs and an ongoing supply of balls. Frost bought his own 300-acre vineyard in 1994 in South Africa’s Paarl wine region, and with the help of Napa winemaker Jason Fisher, produced his first 3,000 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon in 1997. Today David Frost Wine Estate wines include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz and a red-wine blend they call “Par Excellence.” Golf pro Nick Faldo may today be as familiar to fans for his PGA Tour broadcast commentary as for his activity on the links. Inspired by how well Norman’s and Frost’s wines have done, he too decided to branch out into winemaking. Faldo’s wine producing adventures began in 2002. Working with winemaker Wayne Stehbens from Australia’s Katnook Estate, he now has his own Nick Faldo Selections — Cabernet, Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc — all produced in South Australia’s Coonawarra region. Faldo credits health concerns, in part, for his interest in wine — he likes to tout its hear t-healthy antioxidant proper ties, and says he personally likes red wines better than whites for that reason. Last summer, the importer Freixenet USA brought out two Nick Faldo Selection single-varietal wines — Faldo Sauvignon Blanc 2006 and Faldo Shiraz 2004. Where available in the U.S., Nick Faldo’s wines typically retail for around $15 a bottle. F&D

Page 47

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houston@thehoustongroup.net www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 47


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BY DAVID LANGE

Coffee Machines

Which one is right for you?

W

We all certainly enjoy going to our local coffeehouse, or finishing a meal at our favorite restaurant with an exceptional cup of coffee. But what happens when you are at home and you still want that quality cup? If you are in the habit of using a French press or a Chemex brewer, then the thought of using any electrical appliance may not appeal to you. (If you are still using a percolator, you should be banned from drinking coffee entirely for using such a medieval contraption to brew your caffeine fix!) What options exist for home coffee brewing equipment? What should you look for when choosing a coffee brewer for your home? No matter whether you are adamant that the perfect cup of coffee be served strong and black or you succumb to the delights of sugar and cream, there is a coffeemaker for you. You can pay very little money and get a drip coffeemaker for your home that works perfectly fine, since they all work basically the same way — they pour hot water over coffee grounds and then filter the coffee into a decanter of some sort. On the other hand, it doesn’t cost too much more to get a home coffeemaker with lots of extra features that will last for many years to come. But in the pursuit of great coffee, one of the challenges is choosing a coffeemaker to suit your personal taste. Here are some features that coffee connoisseurs might want to think about: What size coffeemaker for me? One of the more important factors to consider regarding your home coffee brewer is how much coffee you drink — and the time that elapses between the cups you consume. If you wait an hour or so between cups, buy a full-sized coffeemaker with a thermal carafe, which keeps coffee hot and fresh-tasting for hours. The warming plates that accompany glass carafes keep coffee hot, but flavor suffers with constant heating. If you’re a coffee lover, or if you entertain a lot, you’ll need a bigger coffeemaker. Most large machines produce 10 to 12 cups. But remember that a manufacturer’s cup is usually 4 or 5 ounces, not the huge mug that may come to mind.

Filters

Our top choice: the Bunn BTX

Water reservoir vs. coil Most coffee brewing machines for the home use a coil heater that heats water until it boils up to the coffee basket.That is why the brewing cycle takes so long. But some coffee brewers sport a ready-to-brew water reservoir. This reservoir keeps water at the ideal brewing temperature of approximately 200 degrees. A quick brew time is a very desirable feature that allows for optimum coffee flavor. A 3-minute cycle is the perfect brew cycle time to produce the most coffee flavor while avoiding the bitterness. Typical brew cycles, using the coil, expose the ground coffee until all the water is boiled up — at least twice as long. 48 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

A removable filter basket is easiest for loading and removing the used filter; baskets inside a pullout drawer can be messy. Paper filters, usually “cupcake” or cone-shaped, absorb oil and keep sediment from creeping through. Permanent mesh filters must be cleaned after each use, but can save you money over time. I’ve found that either type of filter is OK in terms of the taste of the coffee it produces.

“Pause” feature Some drip coffeemakers have a “pause” feature that allows you to pour coffee from the pot before the brew cycle has finished. I recommend that you not use this feature.Why? Because filter brewing always extracts stronger flavor at first, and then follows through with weaker coffee. If you pour a cup from the pot before the brew cycle is finished, the coffee in the pot will not be evenly flavored.

My recommendations What coffeemaker would I recommend to someone whose home model has committed caffeine suicide? There are a lot of choices for replacements. Mr. Coffee and Black & Decker are the two biggest brands. Others include Braun,


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Cuisinart, Delonghi, Krups, Melitta, and Proctor-Silex. But for a Java Junkie like I am who wants a dependable brewer that makes an outstanding cup of coffee each and every time, I recommend the Bunn Home Model brewer, which comes in several models. The Bunn BX brews into a glass decanter in 3 minutes and produces an excellent café-quality coffee. It even has a vacation switch that allows you to turn off the brewer’s tank heater if you are going to be gone for an extended period of time.This model can be found at most local locations of Lowe’s, Target or other department stores. It usually retails for $109, but it is definitely money well spent. My personal favorite — the one you will find on my kitchen counter — is the Bunn BTX. It has all of the features of the Bunn BX, but with one distinct coffee advantage: It brews into a stainless steel vacuum-insulated carafe that keeps coffee hot without overheating. And the unbreakable double-wall carafe is dishwasher safe. This model is a little more difficult to find, but it is a gem. I found mine at Lowe’s and even though its price tag is a substantial $169, it will probably be the last coffeemaker you will have to buy. If you really have a lot of money to burn, then I would recommend Bunn’s A-10 home/commercial model.These can be plumbed into your kitchen sink water supply and will brew coffee literally with a touch of a button. No more stumbling around in the morning looking for a pitcher to pour water into the brewer! It also has a feature that allows you to brew a half pot if you are so inclined. This brewer is strictly gala, with a price tag that will give you complete sticker shock. No matter what your choice for home coffee brewing, though, remember this: No matter how expensive or elaborate your coffeemaker may be, if you use stale or inferior coffee in it, that brewer will not miraculously produce great coffee. It will produce a stale, inferior pot of coffee. And you will have only yourself to blame. Start your day with great coffee, and you will feel as Dr. William Leszynski did when he wrote in his book Coffee as a Beverage: “Coffee when well prepared is beyond question one of the ambrosial luxuries of modern life.” F&D www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 49


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recipes cooking class

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Cooking with Pride

years in the Gulf of Mexico, the U.S. Gulf shrimp crop is “virtually gone,” says Jones; most shrimp in the U.S. today comes from Asia. The U.S. Dept. of Agriculture’s Our chef instructors deliver fresh flavors using local initiative to have Kentucky farmers plow under their tobacco fields and come up ingredients — featuring Kentucky Proud products. with new cash crops has been aided by Sullivan University chefs Kim Jones and David Walls turn the state’s Dept. of Aquaculture, she said, which introduced to fresh, natural Kentucky meats and produce to fashion this a freshwater prawn program. The prawns in the recipe are farm-raised; the grits, from the Weisenberger Mill in Midway, issue’s recipes. Jones, chair of the professional catering program depart- Ky., come from Kentucky-raised corn, said Jones; and the ment at Sullivan University and a certified executive chef, succotash can easily be prepared from local summer produce. Walls, chef instructor at Sullivan University’s Lexington created her Grilled Bourbon Marinated Flank Steak Salad with Grilled Peaches and Mint Vinaigrette to showcase the products. campus, says that using Kentucky Proud products with their The flank steak Jones uses comes from the Green River Cattle students gets them thinking locally. “We want the farmers to Company, an enterprise owned and managed by Central reap the benefit, and we want students to start thinking Kentucky farmers producing “all-natural gourmet beef.” With about local products,” he said, pointing out that food grown Bourbon — which Jones calls Kentucky’s “cash crop” — and locally typically has a different taste than mass produced mint, available in many local gardens this time of year, the dish products — something he referred to as “indigenous taste.” combines light, easy-to-prepare ingredients for summertime. The strawberries in his Strawberry Balsamic Reduction would Jones’s Kentucky Barbecued Freshwater Prawns with not taste the same with mass-market strawberries, he said. Spring Pea Succotash recipe features a relatively new Kentucky “In the spring, we are able to get fresh strawberries from the product — freshwater prawns. With the hurricanes in recent local markets,” he added.

Double-Thick Pork Rib Eye au Poivre with Apple and Leek Puree and Boulangere Potatoes

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Kentucky Barbecued Freshwater Prawns with Spring Pea Succotash

Noisette of Lamb with Carrot Frisee and Spring Peas and a Strawberry Balsamic Reduction

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Chef David Walls

Double-Thick Pork Rib E ye au Poivre with Apple and L eek P uree and Boulangere Potatoes (SERVES 4) Pork Rib Eye au Poivre: 4 6-ounce double-thick rib eye chops 3 tablespoons coarsely cracked black pepper 11/2 tablespoons fennel seeds, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Combine the pepper and fennel seeds. Rub the chops with some of the olive oil and coat them with the pepper and fennel. Place a skillet on medium-high heat. Add the remaining olive oil and brown the chops on both sides. Transfer to the oven and bake until done, about 12 to 15 minutes. Apple and Leek Puree: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 leek, thinly sliced 2 McIntosh apples, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons honey 1 /4 cup lemon juice 1 /4 teaspoon ground coriander 1 cinnamon stick Place a skillet on medium heat. Add the oil. Add the remaining ingredients and stir well. Cook until the leeks and apples are very soft. Remove the cinnamon stick and puree. Boulangere Potatoes: 4 Yukon Gold potatoes cut into wedges 4 to 6 cups veal stock 2 slices of bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces 4 ounces onion, cut into 1/4-inch pieces 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves Salt Black pepper In a saucepan simmer the potatoes in the stock until half cooked and the stock has reduced. Remove the potatoes to a platter and allow to cool. Reserve the remaining stock. 52 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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Place a skillet on low heat and render the bacon until it just starts to crisp. Remove the bacon and hold on the side. Add the onions and cook over medium heat until they begin to brown. Add the half-cooked potatoes, rendered bacon, thyme, and the reserved veal stock. Simmer until potatoes are fully cooked and the stock has reduced to a syrupy glaze. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Assembly: Place the apple and leek puree at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock on a plate. Lay one pork chop so the meat is just touching the puree and the bones are pointing to the left at 10 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. Put potatoes in the crook of the bone.

Noisette of Lamb with Carrot Frisee and Spring Peas and a Str awberry Balsamic Reduction

Add the veal stock to the pan, bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer and cook until the liquid has reduced to half. Strain out strawberries and discard. Sauce can be made ahead and kept in the refrigerator. Assembly: For each serving, place three lamb loins on top of the carrot and pea mixture. Drizzle the strawberry balsamic reduction over the lamb and on the plate to decorate, and garnish with the reserved strawberries.

Chef Kim Jones

(SERVES 4) 2 boneless lamb loins (this is rack of lamb without the rib bones) 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 medium carrots cut into julienne 1 cup green peas, cooked and cooled Kosher salt Black pepper Lightly rub the lamb with some of the olive oil, and salt and pepper them. Place a heavy skillet on medium-high heat; when the pan is hot add the lamb loin and brown evenly on all sides, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the lamb to a plate and cover. Allow to rest 20 minutes before cutting each lamb loin into six equal portions. There should be fond (those brown particles that stick to the pan) left in the pan. While the pan is still hot add a little more oil. Add the julienne carrots and toss them to coat with the oil. Cook until they soften and take some color from the fond, about 4 minutes. Add the peas and toss with the carrots to heat them through. Salt and pepper to taste and set aside. Strawberry Balsamic Reduction: 12 fresh strawberries 1 /2 cup balsamic vinegar 1 /4 cup veal stock Thinly slice strawberries, reserving four for garnish. Combine strawberries and balsamic vinegar in a small, heavy saucepan.

Grilled Bourbon Marinat ed Flank Steak Salad with Grilled Peaches and Mint Vinaigrette (SERVES 4) 1 16-ounce flank steak Bourbon Marinade: 1 cup Bourbon (Woodford Reserve is a good choice) 1 quart chicken stock 1 cup dark brown sugar 1 cup orange juice 1 cup vegetable oil 1 bunch mint, torn into pieces 2 tablespoons black peppercorns 1 head garlic, roughly chopped 5 sprigs fresh thyme Combine all ingredients and pour over flank steak, cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours and up to 2 days. Mint Vinaigrette: 11/2 cup grapeseed oil 3 /4 cup champagne vinegar 1 /2 cup honey 2 tablespoons fresh mint, minced Salt Black pepper In mixing bowl, whisk oil, vinegar and honey. Stir in mint and season with salt and pepper. May be made 24-hours in advance.


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For the Salad: 4 peaches, sliced into 6 pieces each Vegetable oil (to brush peaches) 1 bag mixed salad greens (6 cups) 1 /2 red onion, sliced into thin shavings On a hot grill cook flank steak to medium rare. Remove flank steak and allow steak to rest 20 minutes and then slice into 1/4 -inch thick strips. While steak is cooking, brush peaches with salad oil and sear on grill till lightly charred. Toss salad greens and red onions with two-thirds of the vinaigrette. Assembly: Place sliced flank steak on top of salad and top with peaches. Serve remaining dressing on the side.

Kentucky Barbecued Freshwater Prawns with Spring Pea Suc cotash (SERVES 4) 12 freshwater prawns, peeled 2 tablespoons Creole seafood seasoning 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 head garlic, peeled and minced 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 3 tablespoons hot sauce

Grilled Bourbon Marinated Flank Steak Salad with Grilled Peaches and Mint Vinaigrette

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1 large lemon, quartered and seeded /2 cup beer 1 teaspoon ketchup Salt Black pepper 8 tablespoons butter

1

Lightly toss the prawns in half the Creole seasoning. Preheat large skillet over high heat, then add oil. Add garlic and rosemary, stirring until garlic is lightly browned. Squeeze in the juice of lemon quarters then add the spent lemons, Worcestershire and hot sauce. Cook prawns on each side until just pink, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Add the beer, ketchup and remaining Creole seasoning, salt and pepper to taste. Cook for an additional 2 minutes, reduce the heat and slowly swirl in the butter until fully melted. Remove prawns from skillet, strain liquid and reserve as a sauce. Horseradish Gouda Weisenberger Grits: 2 cups cream 1 cup chicken broth 11/2 cups Weisenberger grits 2 teaspoons garlic powder 1 cup Kennyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Farmhouse Horseradish Gouda Cheese, shredded Salt Black pepper

In medium saucepan bring cream and broth to a low boil. Stir in grits and garlic powder, bringing back to a low boil and cook for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to a low simmer, stirring frequently, and cook 15 to 20 minutes until grits are tender. Fold in cheese and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spring Pea Succotash: 4 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced 1 cup fresh peas 1 cup fresh corn, cut from the cob 1 cup lima beans 1 /2 cup red peppers, diced small 1 /2 cup white wine Salt Black pepper In a medium size skillet over mediumhigh heat, add butter and thyme and cook until soft. Add peas, corn, lima beans and red pepper and cook 3 to 4 minutes until just tender. Then add wine and cook an additional 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Assembly: Divide grits and succotash evenly on four plates and top with three prawns per plate and spoon reserved prawn liquid over prawns and grits. F&D


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Alphabetical Index

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ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

Cuisine Style

RESTAURANT

dining guide

AFRICAN 73 ASIAN/CHINESE 73 ASIAN/FILIPINO 75 ASIAN/JAPANESE 75 ASIAN/KOREAN 76 ASIAN/THAI 76 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 76 BAR & GRILL 72 BARBECUE 71 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 61 CAFÉS 62 CAFETERIAS 68 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 79 CASUAL DINING 65 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 68 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 77 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 77 EUROPEAN/IRISH 77 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 77 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 78 FINE DINING 58 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 67 INDIAN 78 MEXICAN 79 MICROBREWERIES 73 MIDDLE EASTERN 79 PIZZA 68 SANDWICH/DELI 70 SEAFOOD 64 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 81 STEAKHOUSE 64 UPSCALE CASUAL 59

Area Maps MAP # DIRECTION

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

82 PG #

Overview (Index)

82

Downtown

84

Near East

85

East

86

South East

87

East

88

(Downtown Louisville) (Highlands – Crescent Hill) (St. Matthews) (Hikes Point – Buechel) (Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon)

South East

89 (Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown) North East 90 (River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd.) North East 90 (Westport Rd.) Far East 91 (Middletown) North East 91 (Prospect) South East 91 (Fern Creek) South 92 (Airport – Okolona) South West 93 (Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park) Indiana 94 (New Albany – Floyds Knobs) Indiana 95 (Clarksville) Indiana 95 (Jeffersonville)

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PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

#1 Asian Buffet 73 19th Green Pub & Grill 72 211 Clover Lane 58 60 West Bistro 59 610 Magnolia 58 8 China Buffet 73 A Nice Restaurant 65 A Taste of China 73 A.J.’s Coffee & Cream 81 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Adrienne’s Italian 77 Al Watan 79 Alexander’s Pizzeria 68 Amazing Grace Deli 70 Amerigo 77 Amici´ 77 Angelina’s Café 77 Angilo’s Pizza 68 Angio’s Restaurant 68 Ann’s by the River 68 Annie Café 76 Annie’s Pizza 68 Another Place 70 Applebee’s 65 Arirang 76 Arni’s Pizza 68 Aroma Café 62 Artemisia 59 Asahi Japanese 75 Asian Buffet 73 Asiatique 59 Atrium Café 61 August Moon 73 Austin’s 59 Avalon 59 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 65 Babby’s Steakhouse 64 Backyard Burger 70 The Bakery 81 Bamboo House 74 Bank Shot Billiards 70 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 67 Basa Modern Vietnamese 59 Baxter Station 61 Bazos Mexican Grill 79 bd’s Mongolian Grill 74 Bean Street Café 81 Bearno’s Pizza 68 Beef O’Brady’s 72 Behar Café 77 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 75 Bendoya Sushi Bar 75 Bentley’s Sports Grille 72 Big Al’s Beeritaville 72 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 67 Bistro 301 61 Blackstone Grile 59 Blimpie’s Subs 70 BLU Mediterranean Grille 59 Blue Dog Bakery 62 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 62 Blue Mule Sports Café 72 Blue Nile Ethiopian 73 Bluegrass Bistro 61 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 73 Bluegrass Grill & Bar 65 Bombay Grill 78 Bonefish Grill 64 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 71 Bosna-Mak 77 Bountiful Bread Bakery Café 62 Bourbons Bistro 61 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 71 Bravo! 59 Breadworks 81 Brendan’s Restaurant & Pub 77 Bristol Bar & Grille 59 Brix Wine Bar 61 Brown Bag Deli 70 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 72 Browning’s Brewery 73 Bruce’s Smokehouse 71 Bruno’s Pizza 68 Bruno’s Pizzeria & Pub 68 Buca Di Beppo 77 Buck’s 58 Buckhead Mountain Grill 65 Buenos Dias Café 80

MAP #

Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 3 Upscale Casual 3 Fine Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Casual Dining 14, 16 Asian/Chinese 1 Coffee House 14 Desserts/Bakery 16 European/Italian 16 Middle Eastern 4 Pizza 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 European/Italian 5 European/Italian 1 European/Italian 5 Pizza 13 Pizza 4 Cafeterias 16 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Pizza 1, 13 Sandwich/Deli 1 Casual Dining [8] Asian/Korean 9 Pizza 14 Cafés 14 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Upscale Casual 7 Upscale Casual 2 Casual Dining 5 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 6, 7 Desserts/Bakery 4 Asian/Chinese 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 3 Asian/Chinese 6 Coffee House 14 Pizza [13] Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 European/Bosnian 12 Asian/Japanese 14 Asian/Japanese 1 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Upscale Casual 10 Sandwich/Deli 2 Upscale Casual 1 Cafés 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 6 African 1 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Microbreweries 1, 3 Casual Dining 7 Indian 5 Seafood 5 Barbecue 11, 12 European/Bosnian 4 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Barbecue 8 Upscale Casual 3 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 European/Irish 3 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10, 16 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 5 Microbreweries 1 Barbecue 4 Pizza 14 Pizza 12 European/Italian 6 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 4, 12, 16 Mexican 15

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Buffalo Wild Wings 72 Buffalo Wings & Rings 72 Bulldog Café 62 Butterfly Garden Café 62 Cachito Mio Cuban Café 79 Café 360 79 Café Fraiche 62 Café Lou Lou 61 Café Magnolia 65 Café Metro 58 Café Mimosa 76 Café Thuy Van 76 Caffe Classico 81 Caffé Perusa 58 Cake Flour 81 California Pizza Kitchen 68 Cancun Mexican Grill 80 Captain’s Quarters 65 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 66 Carly Rae’s 65 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 64 Carolyn’s 67 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 77 Caspian Grill Persian Bistro 79 Cat Box Deli 70 Caviar Japanese Rest. 60 Champions Grill 65 Champion’s Sports Rest. 72 Charlestown Pizza Co. 68 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 72 Check’s Café 67 Cheddar Box Café 62 Cheddar’s Casual Café 65 The Cheesecake Factory 60 Chez Seneba African 74 The Chicago Gyro 70 Chick Inn 65 The Chicken House 67 Chicken King 67 Chili’s 65 China 1 74 China Buffet 74 China Castle 75 China Garden 74 China Inn 74 China King 74 China Sea Buffet 75 Chinese Chef 74 Chinese Express 74 Chong Garden 74 Chopsticks 74 Chopsticks House 74 Chrisanta’s Café 62 Chung King 74 Cici’s 68 City Café 62 City Wok 74 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 71 Clarksville Seafood 64 Clifton’s Pizza 68 Club Grotto 60 Coach Lamp 60 Coco’s Bakery 81 CoCo’s Chocolate Café 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Colonnade Café 62 Come Back Inn 77 Connor’s Place 72 Corbett’s ‘an American place’ 58 Corner Café 60 Cottage Café 67 Cottage Inn 67 Crave Café & Catering 62 Cravings a la Carte 68 Creekside Outpost & Café 62 Crystal Chinese 74 Cuba Libre 79 Culver’s 65 Cumberland Brews 73 Cunningham’s 65 Cup Of Sunshine 62 Cutter’s Wharf 65 Cyclers Café 62 Dakshin Indian Restaurant 78 Danish Express Pastries 70 Danny Boy’s 72 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 68 Day’s Espresso 81 De La Torre’s 78 Del Frisco’s 64 Delta Restaurant 72 Derby Café 62 Derby City Dogs 70 Derby City Espresso 81 Derby Dinner Playhouse 68 Desserts By Helen 81 Devino’s 70 Diamond Pub & Billiards 72 Dinner Is Done 67

MAP #

Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Bar & Grill 8 Cafés 12 Cafés 2 Caribbean/Cuban 8 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 7 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Coffee House 2 Fine Dining 6 Desserts/Bakery 1 Pizza 5 Mexican 6 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Middle Eastern 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Pizza 16 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafés 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Desserts/Bakery 2 Coffee House 14 Coffee House 1 Cafés 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Bar & Grill 14 Fine Dining 8 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Cafés 14 Asian/Chinese 1 Caribbean/Cuban 14 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 10 Cafés 16 Casual Dining 10 Cafés 2 Indian 11 Sandwich/Deli 3 Bar & Grill 16 Pizza 2 Coffee House 2 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Sandwich/Deli 2 Coffee House 1 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bar & Grill 3 Home Style/Southern 6


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MAP #

Dino’s Down to Lunch 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ditto’s Grill 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Djuli 77 European/Bosnian 12 Dmitri’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Domino’s Pizza 68 Pizza [20] Don Pablos 80 Mexican 15 Dooley’s Bagels 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 7 Double Dragon 74 Asian/Chinese 2,3 Double Dragon II 74 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Double Dragon 8 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Dublin’s Cellar 74 Bar & Grill 2 Dynasty Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Eastern House 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Eggroll Machine 74 Asian/Chinese 2 El Burrito de Oro 80 Mexican 15 El Caporal 80 Mexican 4,6,12,15 El Mundo 80 Mexican 2 El Nopal 80 Mexican 6, 8, 9, 12, 14 El Nopalito 80 Mexican 2, 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 80 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 80 Mexican 13 El Tarasco 80 Mexican 3, 5, 7, 12 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 80 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 74 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 74 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 58 Fine Dining 1 Equus 58 Fine Dining 3 Erika’s German Rest. 77 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 63 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Ernesto’s 80 Mexican 3, 5, 6 Expressions of You 81 Coffee House 7 The Falafel House 79 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 71 Barbecue 6, 15 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Fat Jimmy’s 68 Pizza 1, 2, 9 Federal Hill 63 Cafés 14 Feed Bag Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 80 Mexican 8 Fifth Quarter 64 Steakhouse 12 Finley’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 1 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 71 Barbecue 1, 11, 13 Fireside Bar & Grill 66 Casual Dining 14 First Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 13 The Fish House 64 Seafood 2 The Fishery 64 Seafood 3 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 72 Bar & Grill 1 Flanagans Ale House 72 Bar & Grill 2 Fork in the Road 67 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 72 Bar & Grill 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza 68 Pizza 1 Frolio’s Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Frontier Diner 67 Home Style/Southern 13 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 75 Asian/Japanese 8, 9 Fun Food Café 63 Cafés 2 Gasthaus 77 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 Genny’s Diner 67 Home Style/Southern 2 Gerstle’s Place 72 Bar & Grill 3 Gilman’s Point 60 Upscale Casual 3 Golden Buddha 74 Asian/Chinese 12 Golden Corral 67 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Golden Palace 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 74 Asian/Chinese 12 Goose Creek Diner 66 Casual Dining 8 Granville Inn 72 Bar & Grill 1 Grape Leaf 79 Middle Eastern 2 Grapevine Pantry 63 Cafés 9 Great American Grill 72 Bar & Grill 12 Great Wall 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Hall’s Cafeteria 68 Cafeterias 2 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 75 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy Dragon 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Hard Rock Café 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Havana Rumba 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Hazelwood Restaurant 67 Home Style/Southern 13 Heavenly Ham 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Coffee House 2, 3 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Hero’s New York Pizza Pub 68 Pizza 6 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Coffee House 2 Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 75 Asian/Japanese 7 Hill Street Fish Fry 64 Seafood 1 Hitching Post Inn 72 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Coffee House 14 Homerun Burgers & Fries 66 Casual Dining 6 Hometown Buffet 67 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 68 Pizza 7, 9 Honeybaked Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11 Hong Kong Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 74 Asian/Chinese 12 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 12 Hooters 66 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 55


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Howl at the Moon 68 Hunan Wok 74 Ice Breakers 72 Ichiban Samurai 75 IHOP 66 Incredible Dave’s 68 Indi’s Restaurant 67 India Palace 78 Indigo Joe’s Sports Pub 72 Intermezzo Café & Cabaret 60 The Irish Rover 77 Iroquois Pizza 68 Islamorada Fish Co. 64 J. Alexander’s 60 J. Graham’s Café 63 J. Gumbo’s 79 J. Harrods 60 J Train Pizza & Pub 68 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 58 Jack Fry’s 60 Jack’s Lounge 62 Jade Garden Buffet 74 Jade Palace 74 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 72 Jane’s Cafeteria 68 Jarfi’s Bistro 60 Jarfi’s Café 63 Jasmine 74 Jason’s Deli 70 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 64 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 63 Jersey Mike’s Subs 70 Jersey’s Café 72 Jessie’s Restaurant 67 Jimbo’s BBQ 71 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 70 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 68 Joe Huber Restaurant 68 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 64 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 79 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 66 John E’s 60 JoJo’s Fish Market 64 Juanita’s Burger Boy 70 Jucy’s Smokehouse 71 Juke Box 68 Jumbo Buffet 74 Just Fresh Bakery & Café 70 Kaelin’s Restaurant 66 Kansai Japanese Rest. 76 Karem’s 66 Karma Café 66 Kashmir Indian 78 Kayrouz Café 63 KC’s Chicago Hotdog Stand 70 Kentucky BBQ Co. 71 Kern’s Korner 66 King Buffet 74 King Wok 74 Kingfish 64 Kings Fast Food 67 King’s Fried Chicken 67 Kobe Japanese Steak 76 Koreana II 76 Kreso’s Restaurant 77 KT’s 60 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 62 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 78 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 78 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Perla del Pacifico 80 La Que 77 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Tapatia 80 La Vida Java Coffee Co. 81 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 68 Las Gorditas 80 Le Relais 58 Lee’s Korean 76 Legend’s 67 Lemongrass Café 77 Liang’s Café 74 The Lighthouse 72 Lilly’s 58 Limestone 58 Ling Ling 74 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Little Chef 70 Liu’s Garden 74 Logan’s Roadhouse 64 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 80 Longhorn Steakhouse 64 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 70 Los Aztecas 80 Lotsa Pasta 70 Louisville Pizza Co. 69

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Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Chinese 11 Bar & Grill 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Casual Dining 15 Entertainment Dining 8 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5, 15 Bar & Grill 7 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Seafood 15 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Cajun/Creole 1, 2,5, 6, 8,12,13 Upscale Casual 10 Pizza 16 Fine Dining 14 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Upscale Casual 2 Cafés 1 Asian/Chinese 9 Sandwich/Deli 5 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Home Style/Southern 13 Barbecue 12 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2, 3, 6 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 3 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 15 Casual Dining 3, 8 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Sandwich/Deli 2 Barbecue 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 3 Seafood 12 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 European/Bosnian 12 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 European/Italian 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Mexican 8, 12 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Mexican 14, 15 Mexican 2 Coffee House 7 Cafeterias 14 Mexican 11 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Vietnamese 3, 9 Asian/Chinese 8 Bar & Grill 16 Fine Dining 2 Fine Dining 5 Asian/Chinese 5 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 Sandwich/Deli 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 Mexican 12 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 6

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Lucky House Buffet Lucky Strike Lanes Luigi’s Lunch Today Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas Macca’s Florida Seafood Maggie’s Neighborhood Bar Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Main Street Café & Treats Maker’s Mark Lounge Manhattan Grill Mark’s Feed Store Market on Market Marekt Street Fish House Martini Italian Bistro Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Café Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexicano Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Mojito Tapas Restaurant Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Bar My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill New Albanian Brewing Co. New China New Direction Bar & Grill Ninny’s-N-New Albany Nios Norma Jean’s Trackside North End Café NV Tavern O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub Oak Street Pizza The Oakroom Oceanside Restaurant Oishii Sushi Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Olivia’s Restaurant Ollie’s Trolley Omar’s Gyro On the Border Onion Rest.Tea House Orchid Asian Café Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental House Oriental Star Original Impellizzeri’s Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café Our Best Restaurant Outback Steakhouse P. F. Chang’s China Bistro Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza Palermo Viejo Panda Chinese Panera Bread Co. Papa Johns Pizza Park Place Restaurant Passtime Fish House Pat’s Steak House The Patron PattiCakes Café Paul’s Fruit Market Penn Station Peppers Bar and Grill Perkfection Pesto’s Italian Pho Binh Minh Piccadilly Cafeteria

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75 Asian/Chinese 4 68 Entertainment Dining 1 69 Pizza 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 16 66 Casual Dining 2 69 Pizza 15 64 Seafood 7 72 Bar & Grill 6 76 Asian/Thai 16 76 Asian/Japanese 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 63 Cafés 14 60 Upscale Casual 1 66 Casual Dining 1 71 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 64 Seafood 14 78 European/Italian 8 66 Casual Dining 1 66 Casual Dining 6, 8 80 Mexican 1 64 Seafood 9 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 9, 11,15 78 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 63 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 4, 11 80 Mexican 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 72 Bar & Grill 1 64 Seafood 13 66 Casual Dining 5 64 Seafood 8 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 11, 15 78 European/Spanish 7 77 European/Irish 2 66 Casual Dining 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 65 Steakhouse 1 69 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 67 Home Style/Southern 13 63 Cafés 1 72 Bar & Grill 14 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 68 Entertainment Dining 12 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 60 Upscale Casual 7 69 Pizza 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 73 Bar & Grill 8 67 Home Style/Southern 14 62 Bistro/Contemporary 2 66 Casual Dining 7 60 Cafés 2 73 Bar & Grill 2 69 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 68 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Irish 2 68 Pizza 1 58 Fine Dining 1 79 Middle Eastern 4 76 Asian/Japanese 2 69 Pizza 6 81 Coffee House 1 78 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 9 71 Barbecue 11 78 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 60 Upscale Casual 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 79 Middle Eastern 2 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 75 Asian/Chinese 14 75 Asian/Chinese 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 9 75 Asian/Chinese 3 75 Asian/Chinese 12 69 Pizza 2, 10 76 Asian/Japanese 2 66 Casual Dining 1 68 Home Style/Southern12, 16 65 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 61 Upscale Casual 5 69 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 78 European/Spanish 2 75 Asian/Chinese 10 70 Sandwich/Deli3, 6, 8, 12, 15 69 Pizza [30] 58 Fine Dining 1 64 Seafood 6 65 Steakhouse 2 61 Upscale Casual 3 63 Cafés 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 71 Sandwich/Deli [16] 66 Casual Dining 1 81 Coffee House 16 78 European/Italian 1 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 68 Cafeterias 5, 6

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Picnicaters BBQ 71 The Pie Pantry 81 Pig City BBQ 71 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 76 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 72 Pita Delights 79 Pita Hut 79 Pizza By The Guy 69 Pizza Hut 69 Pizza King 69 Pizza Place 69 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 65 Porcini 78 Primo 78 Proof On Main 59 Pub Louisville 66 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 78 Puckers Bar & Grill 73 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 73 Queue Café 63 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 71 Rafferty’s of Louisville 66 Ramsi’s Café 62 Raw Sushi Lounge 76 Ray Parrella’s 78 Ray’s Monkey House 81 Red Pepper Chinese Cuisine 75 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 66 Red Star Tavern 61 Red Sun Chinese 75 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 72 River City Coffee House 81 Rivue 59 Road to Morroco 79 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Roosters 66 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Royal India 79 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 72 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Ruby Tuesday 66 The Rudyard Kipling 66 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 64 Rustic Frog 73 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 65 Ryan’s Steakhouse 65 Saffron’s 79 Safier Mediterranean Deli 79 Saint’s 73 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 76 Sakura Blue 76 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 81 Sam’s Food & Spirits 68 Sammi Jo’s Sandwiches & More 71 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 75 Savino’s Italian Food 78 Schlotzsky’s Deli 71 Scotty’s Ribs 72 Senor Iguana’s 80 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 59 Shack In The Back BBQ 72 Shady Lane Café 71 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Shalimar Indian 79 Shane’s Rib Shack 72 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Sharom’s 64 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 79 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 66 Sichuan Garden 75 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 69 Simply Thai 76 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 69 Sister Bean’s 81 Sitar 79 Skip Jack’s 64 Skyline Chili 66 Slice of New York 69 Small Times Bakery 81 Smoketown USA 72 Smokey Bones BBQ 72 Snappy Tomato 69 Sol Aztecas 80 Son Of A Sailor Seaf ood 64 Soupy’s 71 South Side Inn 68 Spaghetti Shop 78 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 69 Sports Page Grill 73

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Barbecue 1 Desserts/Bakery 13 Barbecue 9 Asian/Korean 2 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 2 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 European/Italian 1 Fine Dining 1 Casual Dining 1 European/Italian 3 Bar & Grill 12 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [16] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Chinese 2 Casual Dining 3, 8 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 4 Barbecue 1 Coffee House 2 Fine Dining 1 Middle Eastern 1 European/Italian 8, 16 European/Italian 5 Casual Dining 12 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Indian 3 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Bar & Grill 14 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 11 Asian/Japanese 3 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Sandwich/Deli 1 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 European/Italian 13 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Barbecue 9 Mexican 15 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2, 8 Barbecue 12 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6 Indian 6 Barbecue 7 Asian/Chinese 1 Seafood 11 European/Irish 2, 7 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 9 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Pizza 1 Asian/Thai 3 Pizza 15 Coffee House 13 Indian 2 Seafood 15 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Pizza 6 Desserts/Bakery 4 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 6 Pizza 3, 8, 10 Mexican 2 Seafood 7 Sandwich/Deli 4 Cafeterias 14 European/Italian 11, 14 Pizza 2 Bar & Grill 6


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Sportsville Grill & Bar 66 Casual Dining 12 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 64 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 68 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [35] Starving Artist Café 71 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 66 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Stevens & Stevens 71 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 65 Steakhouse 8 Studio’s Grille & Pub 73 Bar & Grill 14 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 68 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 71 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 73 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 63 Cafés 2 Sweet Surrender 63 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Taco Bueno 81 Mexican 16 Taco Tico 81 Mexican 13 Tacqueria La Mexicana 81 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 73 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 79 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 76 Asian/Chinese 8 Tengo sed Cantina 73 Bar & Grill 1 Tequila Mexican Rest. 81 Mexican 12 Texas Roadhouse 65 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 66 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 76 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 76 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 76 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 76 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 73 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 63 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 63 Cafés 3 The Lunch Pail 64 Cafés 1 The Menu on the River 73 Bar & Grill 16 Theater Square Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third Avenue Café 64 Cafés 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 71 Sandwich/Deli 12 Toast on Market 66 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster’s Rest. 66 Casual Dining 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 69 Pizza 12 Tony Boombozz 69 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 69 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 72 Barbecue 5 Trailside Café 81 Coffee House 7 Trellis Restaurant 67 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 67 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Turkey Joe’s 73 Bar & Grill 8 Tuscano’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 12 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 78 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 67 Casual Dining 2 Uncle Tubby’s 69 Pizza 7 Uptown Café 61 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 61 Upscale Casual 2 Varsity Pizza & Pints 69 Pizza 8 Versatile 67 Casual Dining 2 Vic’s Café 73 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 77 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 67 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 72 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 59 Fine Dining 1 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 68 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 68 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 67 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 64 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Eggs 64 Cafés 3 Windsor Restaurant & Garden 61 Upscale Casual 14 Windy City Pizzeria 70 Pizza 1 The Wing Zone 67 Casual Dining 12 Wings To Go 70 Pizza 14 Winston’s 59 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 64 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Wood City Grill 73 Barbecue 1 Woody’s Pub & Grill 73 Bar & Grill 8 Xavier’s 67 Casual Dining 1 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 61 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Yummy Chinese 75 Asian/Chinese 12 Za’s Pizza 70 Pizza 2 ZaZoo’s 73 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 77 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Zeppelin Café 64 Cafés 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 59 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15–$20 $$ = $9–$14 $$$$ = $21 & up

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

h = LATE NIGHT

OPEN TILL MIDNIGHT OR LATER

✿ = VEGETARIAN f = OUTDOOR MENU ITEMS DINING AVAILABLE LIVE e = MUSIC  = MENU ON-LINE ONLY ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmospher e and creative cuisine of this stylish spot in St. Matthews. It consistently ranks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s distinctive, eclectic take on cr eative international cookery places his personal signature on ever y dish at this elegantly comfor table Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quar ter of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s finest places to dine. $$$$ p f ✿

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BUCK’S 425 W . Ormsby A ve., 637-5284. Eclectic Victorian with tongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not overstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apar tments combines a welcoming attitude with high-quality far e and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p f e ✿ CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bardstown Rd., 458-4830. A local tradition that helped establish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’s “restaurant rows” a generation ago, Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and continues to please Metro’s loyal fans. $$$$ p e ✿ CAFFÉ PERUSA 9200 T aylorsville Rd. 491-5459 There’s a slight Peruvian accent to Rodulfo Pantoja’s lar ge, stylish “American Continental” restaurant in Stony Br ook, wher e you can enjoy everything fr om escar got and oysters to softshell crab and — you pick — New Zealand rack of lamb or cowboy rib eye. A lar ge, international wine cellar adds to the appeal. $$$$ p f e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime owner/chef at Equus and Jack’ s Lounge, kicks things up another notch with this r emarkable, high-end East End destination, which makes thoughtful use of the historic Von Allmen mansion with high-tech touches that range fr om a 21st century kitchen to multimedia dinners. Corbett has his sights set on becoming Kentucky’ s first Mobil five-diamond r estaurant, and we’r e not betting against him. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (The Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same downtown landmark that our grandparents enjoyed, but Chef Laur ent Gér oli brings the grand old hotel dining r oom into the 21st centur y with sophisticated international cuisine. $$$$ p ✿ EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s most

RED = ADVERTISER

honored r estaurants in this simple white-brick building in St. Matthews, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid ser vice and first-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p ✿ JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. High-end luxury and style bring a taste of Las Vegas to Metro Louisville in this pricey , white-tablecloth eater y located on the gr ounds of Horseshoe Casino. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxur y fare and service. $$$$ p h ✿ LE RELAIS 2817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in Louisville’ s r estaurant race, this ar t deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airpor t building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e ✿ LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. As a r epeat invitee to Manhattan’ s James Bear d House, Chef Kathy Cary shares her Kentucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s combines sophisticated style and Car y’s cr eative cooker y to keep this landmark r estaurant one of Louisville’ s dining favorites. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant business, keep doing what you do best. Chefs Jim Gerhardt and Michael Cunha have followed this simple formula with considerable success at Limestone, transpor ting the concept that br ought them international culinary kudos at the Seelbach’ s Oakr oom with good ef fect in these modern quar ters in the East End. $$$$ p ✿ THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Todd Richards has been cutting a swath, with r ecent appearances at James Beard House and Iron Chef America. Richards and right-hand-man Chef Duane Nutter have made the

p = FULL BAR

f = OUTDOOR DINING

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once-staid old Oakr oom one of the city’ exciting places to dine. $$$$ p ✿

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PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. Chef Jay Denham has settled in as executive chef now , and he pr esides over a renovated dining r oom and a new menu. This signature r estaurant in Louisville Slugger Field remains a reliable place to enjoy a quality meal in a comfortable setting. $$$$ p f e ✿ PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360. This stylish spot in the posh 21C Museum Hotel at Seventh & Main has earned a firm place in the top tier of local eateries. Chef Michael Paley pr eside over a modern American bill of far e with distinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p ✿ RIVUE 140 N. Four th St., (Galt House Hotel) 5895200. As par t of an overall makeover , Galt House management has completely r edone the dark old Flagship Room, conver ting the hotel’ s r evolving building-top venue into a sophisticated, upscale and architecturally stunning dining room. $$$ p h ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560, 2929 Goose Cr eek Rd., 425-1000. Chef Anthony Lamas has been winning national praise for his cr eative cooker y, fr equently appearing in national food media and making a regular trek to James Beard House in NYC. Seviche, as the name implies, specializes in the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tar t citrus juices. Now there’s another Seviche, bringing a similar Latino vibe to the ’burbs: Seviche A Latin Bistro on Goose Creek Road. $$$$ p f h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave pr ofessional ser vice, high-end Nor thern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p e h ✿ WINSTON’S REST AURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Renovated

h = LATE NIGHT

quarters kick W inston’s up a notch as culinar y arts students at Sullivan University staf f this finedining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Castro. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿

s most

Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich envir ons outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

60 WEST BISTRO & MAR TINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 W est combines a comfortable dining room with a lar ge, friendly bar with an imposing list of mar tinis and martini-style cocktails. Chefs Tim Smith and Chris V anhoozer offer an appealing, fairly priced eclectic international menu. $$ p f e ✿ ARTEMISIA 620 E. Market St., 583-4177. A ver y good fit with the bustling east-of-downtown ar ts scene, Ar temisia rates as favorite dinner venue in an artful gallery setting, with an attractive alfr esco option in its four -season enclosed cour tyard, Artemisia of fers stylish far e to please both vegetarians and omnivores. $$$ p f e ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bar dstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has won diners’ raves and many culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local tenur e. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has won him invitations to New Y ork City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f h ✿ AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar , this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

 = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bardstown Road offers a fresh and creative bill of far e that pr esents American and international cuisine with a distinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’ s open for a good part of the year. $$$ p f ✿ BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Michael and Steven T on ar e winning raves, including a “long list” James Bear d nomination for top new r estaurant in the Southeast. This sleek and upscale r estaurant’s “fusion” blend of V ietnamese and world culinary influences invites comparison with San Francisco’ s Slanted Door and Cincinnati’s Pho Paris. $$$ p BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, Pr ospect, KY, 228-6962. Rick Dissell, formerly of the eponymous Rick’s Ferrari Grille in Chenoweth Squar e, moved east in June to this new r estaurant the Pr ospect Center. The menu of fers no surprises to Rick’ s fans: sandwiches and the expected array of bistr o entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’ s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ p f ✿ BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿ BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿ BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-0627, 614

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W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 292-2585, 2035 S. Thir d St., 634-2723, 700 W . Riverside Dr ., Jef fersonville, IN, 218-1995. The Bristol has been a star on Louisville’ s bistro scene since it helped kick of f the Bar dstown Road restaurant renaissance 30 years ago this year . Old standards like the gr een-chile won tons and the Bristol Bur ger ar e always r eliable, and the wine program is exceptional. $$ p f ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji r estaurants in the East End, adds a downtown pr esence with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style T atami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿ THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar ser vice. $$ p h ✿ CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5275. Club Grotto’s stylish and romantically dim environs add

up to a comfor table, familiar Highlands spot that’s w orth making a special ef fort to r emember. $$$ p ✿ COACH LAMP REST AURANT 751 V ine St., 5839165. This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but Coach Lamp turns into a more serious dining r oom Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes that range fr om down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ f ✿ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ GILMAN’S POINT 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 893-0106. New owners hoist a new sign over the former Rick’ s Ferrari Grill. The casually sophisticated style of this St. Matthews favorite isn’t expected to change, but watch for more steaks and upscale main dishes as well as a range of excellent libations. $$$ p f e h ✿ INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant r estaurant space in Actor’ s Theatre of Louisville’ s historic building featur es casual American bistr o fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e ✿

J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfor tably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, featur es “contemporar y American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f ✿ J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discr eetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p ✿ JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 452-9244. If you want to give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining style, ther e’s no better destination than Jack Fr y’s. This popular spot is always packed. It saves just a whif f of the raf fish aspect of its 1960s-era pr edecessor, a local saloon, but upgrades it with cr eative American far e in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e h ✿ JARFI’S BISTRO 1543 Bar dstown Rd. 589-5060 Restaurateur Jeff Jarfi, after five years of ser vice operating the destination restaurant in the Kentucky Center for the ar ts, now moves to the Highlands, taking over the space long occupied by Lentini’ s and conver ting it into something mor e elegantly continental. $$$ p f ✿ JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456-1111. This old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation. From its cozy setting in an historic Buechel home to its down-home ser vice to its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e ✿ KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f h ✿ MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Four th St., (Four th Street Live) 568-9009. Under a licensing agreement with the management of Four th Str eet Live, Kentucky’ s Maker’ s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signatur e red-wax image to this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown enter tainment complex. A magisterial bar featur es mor e than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$

pfh✿ MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue par ties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 425-0949. (see r eview under European/Spanish) NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. This popular destination has earned top rank for its innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent ser vice and fine California-focused wine collection. W ith stylish new quarters and an expanded menu, it’s now drawing crowds to Westport Village. $$$ p f h ✿ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfor t A ve., 896-8770. This atmospheric Clifton spot in an ar tfully redesigned old shotgun house is one of the city’ s most popular spots for upscale casual dining. The eclectic menu of fers diverse tapas and inter esting entrées. It’s an appealing, af fordable place to dine. $$$ f h ✿ OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. After a short closure, this comfortably nostalgic r estaurant in an historic stone building east of Louisville in Simpsonville is back in business with new owners. $$$ p f e ✿ OLIVIA’S ON GOSS 946 Goss A ve., 409-6160. The Louisville Antique Mall (and its second floor restaurant, The Café) left this huge, r edbrick 19th century factory location last winter . Now it houses the Goss A venue Antique Mall and this stylish luncheon spot. It’s open 7 days a week, with Chef 60 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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Travis Hall (formerly of Eva Mae’ s) offering soups, salads and daily specials. $ f ✿ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿ THE P ATRON 3400 Frankfor t A ve., 896-1661. Viewed fr om the perspective of an evening meal, the Patron offers some of the best cooking in town. Chef Amber McCool of fers a dinner menu that changes fr equently, based on what’ s available and perhaps the chef ’s whim. It’s not just adventur ous but civilized. $$ p ✿ RAW SUSHI LOUNGE 520 S. Four th St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED ST AR T AVERN 450 S. Four th St., 568-5656. Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this chain operation in Four th Street Live features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f h UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4212. Across the str eet and a step downscale fr om its partner, Café Metr o, the Uptown Café of fers excellent far e with a bistr o feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. The old Red Lounge has under gone a transformation, upgraded to a stunning new dining r oom named for owner and chef, John V aranese, who’ s been executive chef at U of L’s Cardinal Club and Azalea. Varanese puts his personal stamp on an exciting, upscale casual and internationally flavor ed bill of fare. Live jazz, contemporar y ar t and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian)

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WINDSOR RESTAURANT & GARDEN 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-9688. Upscale casual far e returns to the historic hotel building that formerly housed Bistro New Albany. $$$$ p f e ✿ YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Four th St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporar y Asian fusion cuisine.” It’ s an attractive mix of East and W est, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the hear t of the hotel. Specials run fr om their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 584-1635. This cozy spot looks a lot like a neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmosphere take it a notch upscale, and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost year-round. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’r e looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿ BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bar dstown Rd., 4094511. Chef Scott Schamel brings a gourmet-style sensibility to this attractive luncheon spot in the Derby City Antique Mall in Buechel. Menu choices rarely miss; if Possum Pie is the desser t special, don’t fail to choose it. $ ✿

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BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfor t A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, Kentucky’s traditional nectar, owns a place of honor in Louisville eateries and watering holes that showcase its pleasur es. Bourbons Bistr o combines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of far e is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f ✿ BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a shor t bistr o-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $ h ✿ CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears A ve, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in cr owds. Owner -Chef Clay Wallace is comfor table with his international bill of far e that ranges fr om Louisiana to the Mediterranean, and the Café’ s trademark color ful, bold art underscores its laissez les bon temps rouler mood. $$ p ✿ DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 581-9129. Highlands favorite. Chef/Co-owner Domonic Serratore — a pioneer of the local dining scene — offers an internationally eclectic bill of far e that ranges fr om Kansas City ribs and New England crab cakes to Thai chicken wings and Chinese burritos. $$ p h ✿ HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Live, 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy thr ongs at the local branch of this popular shrine to r ock. The music scene is the draw , but you’ll have no complaints about Har d Rock’s standar d American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿

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JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears A ve., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿ L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’r e enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser , with over 80 wines available by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmospher e and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿ NIOS 917 Baxter A ve., 456-7080. Back with new spirit after a brief closing, Nio’ s at 917 of fers an inviting concept: Cr eate your own main course with a sharable selection of small plates, featuring such cr eative goodies by Chefs Josh T uley and Matt Tuley as Southwest Inspired duck wontons, Filipino vinegar -cooked kilawin, baby back ribs, tomato basil bisque, trio of satays, and coconut shrimp. $$ p f h ✿ RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funky and fun, this favorite spot of the Highlands’ Generation X crowd attracts

foodies of all ages with its friendly setting, reasonable prices and well-pr epared international cuisine. $$ f e h ✿

THE BOUNTIFUL BREAD BAKERY CAFÉ 1311 Herr Ln., 742-8111. This upscale bakery in the Westport Village shopping center is building a buzz with excellent, old world-style ar tisan br ead baked on the premises, homemade soups and simple, hear ty homemade fare. $ f e ✿

AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite befor e hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and cof fee will fuel you for a night of enter tainment. $ h ✿

BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $fh✿

BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. This bakery with its $50,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes ar tisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the U.S., and competitive withthe best in Eur ope. Its comfor table, upscale café of fers a short selection of tasty dishes made to show off the fine breads. $$ p f ✿ BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582-3220. Host Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican accent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain cof fee is the specialty , at this sleek and sophisticated spot across Main from Slugger Field. A coffee house by day, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $ f h ✿

BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot of fers teas and lighter lunch fare in an attractive old-house setting. $f✿ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featur ed at this East End neighbor hood café, featuring homemade soups, br eads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿ CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. Ladies who lunch often do so her e, lured by an attractive selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches and desserts. $$ f ✿ CHRISANTA’S CAFÉ 1812 Br ownsboro Rd., 6182250. Don’t blink when you pass this small Clifton storefront down at the lower end of Brownsboro in Clifton, or you might miss your chance for a charming lunch. Mediterranean bistro fare includes a variety of panini, kabobs and comfortable Persian home cooking. $ CITY CAFÉ 505 W . B roadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 8525739. Chef Jim Henr y, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fr esh, quality ingr edients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿ COLONNADE CAFÉ 834 E. Broadway, 749-3104. The Louisville Antique Mall moves from Goss Avenue to East Br oadway, and the familiar Colonnade, mourned upon its eviction from the Starks Building last year, comes back to life on the Antique Mall’ s fifth floor as a sit-down lunch spot with blue-plate menu specials. Works for us! $ p ✿ CRAVE CAFÉ & CA TERING 2250 Frankfor t A ve., 896-1488. Experienced cater ers and chefs of fer casual but quality café far e in this comfor table old frame house in Clifton. $ ✿ CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. This atmosphere is something you won’t see every day — or week, month or year, for that matter. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stor es and maintains ever y bit of old fashioned charm. The Ladyhawk Café ser ves up lean buf falo, elk and surprisingly good bur gers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear , ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ f ✿ CUP OF SUNSHINE TEA HOUSE AND CAFÉ 415 E. Riverside Dr., Clarksville, IN, 282-4316. Operating at the same carpenter -Gothic riverside house as Widow’s W alk ice cr eamery, Cup of Sunshine’ s menu includes wraps, sandwiches, soups and teas. Owners Marquetta Tinsley and Mary Pelly focus on organic, vegetarian and vegan of ferings, but fashion “grilled chicken for our carnivorous friends who haven’t quite let go yet.” $ f ✿ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike — or the whole darn bike! $ f ✿ DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central A ve. (Kentucky Derby Museum), 634-0858. Lunch ser ved year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such r egional favorites as meaty Bur goo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿

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ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Four th St., 587-9390, 455 S. Four th Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-7210, 2736 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bakeries attract cr owds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., New Albany IN, 9486646. $ f ✿ FUN FOOD CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-1003. $ ✿ GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middletown, KY , 245-1569. The Middletown Historic District is booming with stor efronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the past. The Grapevine Pantry of fers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, the recently redecorated J. Graham’s offers a mor e casual bistr o-style alternative to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ f p JARFI’S CAFÉ 144 N. Sixth St. (Muhammad Ali Center) 992-5329. $$ ✿ JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Market St., 454-1487. A worthy edition to the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine cof fee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale ar t-gallery vibe. $fh✿ KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2631. The younger generation of a long-standing local restaurant family offers soup and sandwich favorites and some Lebanese specialties in this small but stylish St. Matthews building. $ f ✿ MAIN STREET CAFÉ & TREA TS 155 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 944-4494. $ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Ser vice is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ f ✿ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Thir d St., 584-8504. It’ s run by a friendly immigrant family fr om Eastern Europe, but the food is all-American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hear ty diner-style meal. $ ✿ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770 (see review under Upscale Casual). PATTICAKES CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 238-7387. Located in the Mellwood Ar ts Center , Patticakes serves homemade soups and sandwiches — and cake, of course. Owner Patti Fadel offers more than 50 varieties of pound cake! $ f ✿ QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ f ✿ SWEET ‘N’ SA VORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hear ty brunch far e with a vegetarian accent makes Sweet ‘n’ Savory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ ✿ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfor t A ve., 4586363. After moving fr om its original Frankfor t Avenue to Bardstown Road a few years ago, owner Jessica Haskell has r eturned to her original neighborhood. A light lunch menu is available as well as the trademark desserts. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Br ent St., 637-6869. Long hailed as one of the city’s most attractive places for a simple but stylish lunch, this local institution has moved from the old Louisville Antique Mall on Goss Avenue, to a mor e easily accessible stor efront location just off East Broadway. $ f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 8932324. $ f ✿

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THE LUNCH P AIL 502 E. W arnock St., 634-7116. Offering yet another quick and comfor ting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year -round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿ THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. One of my favorite places for a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighbor hood eater y is attracting loyal cr owds with excellent far e and a cozy setting that brings you back for mor e. $$

pfe✿ WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Br eckenridge Ln., 4545955. For many years a Fern Cr eek landmark before a shor t move west, Whitney’ s r emains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. $ ✿ WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005. The owners of Napa River Grill have hit a home run with the launch of this popular , high-quality spot, set to be the first in a growing mini-chain. Wild Eggs serves br eakfast, brunch and lunch. T raditional favorites and specialty omelets ar e featured, with upscale touches at moderate prices, plus a trained espresso barista and full bar ser vice. $ p ✿ WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 5620983. Although it bears the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, don’ t expect W olfie in the kitchen: This fast-food operation is run by Centerplate, the same folks who pr ovide concessions at Slugger Field and Papa John’s Cardinal Stadium. $$ f ZEPPELIN CAFÉ 1036 E. Burnett St., 365-3551. $$ h ✿

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4124666. This franchise concept fr om the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain of fers impressive seafood in a comfor table setting. Add Bonefish to

your shor t list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿ CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 3922 Westport Rd., 894-8947. In an East End neighbor hood rich with seafood eateries, Carolina offers a tasty option within walking distance of downtown St. Matthews. This spartan little joint featur es shellfish and cod, much of it healthfully steamed, not fried, in an affordable family setting. $ f CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only sur viving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, ser ved on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as over flowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up ther e with the best. Crisp br eading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Gr een River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188. The original fried-fish eater y in a neighbor hood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery r emains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and af fordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿ HILL STREET FISH FR Y 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f ISLAMORADA FISH COMPANY 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-5300. Spawned by a beachside eatery in the Florida Keys, Islamorada Fish Company has locations in many of the nation’s 30 Bass Pr o Shops, including Clarksville’ s gigantic entry in the former River Falls Mall. Beach-shack decor adds fun, and its expansive menu of fers a broad selection of seafood and fish. $$ p JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line, and I’m pleased to r eport that the seafood at Joe’s is uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop of fers fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare in a casual setting. We’ve found the fish dishes first-rate and fairly priced. $ ✿

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

KINGFISH REST AURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr ., Jef fersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. T wo of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f e MACCA’S FLORIDA SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR 1315 Herr Ln., 618-2770. Upscale casual seafood and fish, this popular spot in W estport Village is upscale in menu and design but af fordable for families. $$ p f e h MARKET STREET FISH HOUSE 133 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 590-3377. $

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

64 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

MAZZONI’S OYSTER CAFÉ 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 451-4436. In business since 1884, Mazzoni’s is one of the city’s longest-running restaurants. After a generation in the Bowman Field ar ea, it has found a home in Middletown, and br ought along much of its oldstyle look and feel. The pub grub, cold beer and the famous rolled oyster haven’t changed a bit. $$ p f ✿ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and r emains immensely popular . Ther e’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic gr ove with its giant shade tr ees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f RED = ADVERTISER

MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eater y evokes the feeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kitchen that of fers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and ser vice has made Mitchell’ s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿ PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 4633. $$ f e

10801 Locust Rd., 267-

RUMORS REST AURANT & RA W BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’ s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ p SKIP JACK’S 1418 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville IN, 282-7557. $ SON OF A SAILOR SEAFOOD REST AURANT 617 W. Jefferson St., LaGrange, KY , 265-2202. Settling into the spot wher e Mike’s Fish House used to be, Son Of A Sailor opened in June of fering seafood Calabash-style (“bound” br eading with seasoned flour and cornmeal, popular in the Car olinas.) Munch the free, slightly sweet hush puppies while you wait. $$ f STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, per fectly pr epared. I’ve never had a better fish sandwich anywher e. W atch for daily specials that take advantage of fr esh product. $ ✿ ] BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN., 288-2411. This independentminded steakhouse is one of the metr o area’s best values for exper tly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual sizes and configurations, but someone in the kitchen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling. The r esult is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 897-7077. Once ranked among the city’ s top steakhouses, Del Frisco’s remains strong in its core competency. For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’ s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 361-2363. The Fifth Quarter offers steaks and beef in a nostalgic family atmosphere. $$$ p f e JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. (see listing under Fine Dining) JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belterra Casino, now hosts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale steak house that bears his name. Fine beef is the main draw , with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy ., 448-0577, 970 Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 V on Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme ar e the draw at this chain eatery , although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p

p = FULL BAR

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MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. The steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being stuffy, and the service is outstanding. Morton’s earns a solid three stars and ranks among the top tier of Louisville’ s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895-4329, 6520 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 2834329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ’50s, but when I ate there last, I think I saw Ozzie and Harriet. A local favorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p f PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hwy., 964-6117, 816 S. KY 53, La Grange, KY, 2221226. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buf fet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’ s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the best r estaurant. It ser ves an excellent steak in an atmospher e of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088.. This popular Nor th Carolina-based chain of fers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buf fet featur es over 150 items. $$

STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s first properties outside its Geor gia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly ser vice and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ p h TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy . 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (17 locations) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex)

A NICE REST AURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr ., 2809160, 404 Lafollette Station, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’ s Finer Diner ,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two mor e branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ APPLEBEE’S (8 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assor tment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultr y and pasta as well as full bar ser vice. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter , but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a lar ge and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h BLUEGRASS GRILL & BAR 1041 Zorn A ve., 8975101. Formerly Anytimes, this Ramada Inn dining room now features Kentucky products from catfish to pork barbecue with traditional Henr y Bain sauce. $$ p f e h

CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿ CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 W estport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 Veteran’s Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2809660. This p opular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿ CHICK INN 6325 Upper River Rd., 228-3646. Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The fried chicken remains estimable, and a local cr owd calls it home base. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Antonia W ay, 301-8181,9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. Mor e than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ pC✿ CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 671-2001. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and fr ozen custar d tops the desser t menu, you know you’re not in for diet far e. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third centur y in modern quar ters that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history , Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ f CUTTER’S WHARF 1902 Victory Ct., Prospect, 2283100. This floating r estaurant near Harmony Landing in Oldham County r eplaces Har vey’s On The River . In its curr ent incarnation, diners will

BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3020 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Buckhead’s combination of mountain lodge atmospher e and American-style far e make these popular destinations. The lar ge menu featur es down-home staples like meat loaf, pot pies, steak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline fr om the river front location is not to be missed. $$ p f h ✿ CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Four th St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alternative, this spacious venue of fers a range of far e for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night bur ger and fries. $$$ p ✿ CAPTAIN’S QUAR TERS 5700 Captain’ s Quar ters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’ s most attractive eateries for atmospher e, Captain’ s Quar ters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistr ostyle fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿ CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L spor ts with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? Y ou want food too? Sur e! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h CARLY RAE’S 103 W . Oak St., 365-1003. This attractive Old Louisville spot with its beautiful patio offers a diverse and appealing menu with an unusually wide variety of casual dining options. $$

pfh✿ h = LATE NIGHT

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

 = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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find fish, steaks, pastas and home-made pizzas, along with the requisite river-rat bar foods. Owner Paul Coogan r eportedly plans Sunday brunch as well. $$ p f h FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 246-5456. Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken. They also make excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups ar e created daily and cof fee and desser ts ar e always fresh. $$ p ✿ GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eater y has been ar ound for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner of fers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the downhome eats. $ HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and mor e than 20 toppings of fer you a fielder’ s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100; 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194; 7701 Pr eston Hwy., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2189485; 941 East Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw cr owds with its long-standing reputation as a par ty scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. $ p f e h INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF P ANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1772. This is currently the familiar IHOP franchise’ s sole property in the Louisville area. $ h ✿ JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going str ong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually gr own from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h JUKE BOX Highlander Point Shopping Center Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

,

KAELIN’S RESTAURANT 1801 Newbur g Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 70 years, and their cheeky claim to have invented the cheesebur ger actually seems to have some basis in fact. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f ✿ KAREM’S 9424 Nor ton Commons Blvd., 327-5646, 314 Wallace Ave., 895-0084. Karem’s Grill & Pub is one of the first r estaurants located in the villagelike Nor ton Commons, this is a ver y good eater y indeed. Inside and out, it carries the look and feel of a neighbor hood watering hole. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Kar em’s is excellent. You’ll find similarly good chow in a delistyle setting at the original outlet, Kar em’s Deli & Catering, still active on Wallace. $ p f KARMA CAFÉ 1126 Bardstown Rd., 587-0062. Karma Café stays open late and of fers diner-style courses — with a few Middle Eastern dishes for accent — in a casually artsy and informal setting. $ f h ✿ KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’ s of fers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold shor t or ders ar e served up with riverboat hospitality , but in a Las Vegas atmospher e. A well stocked bar and a live 66 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

stage welcome the best of r egional and visiting national acts fr om W ednesday thr ough Satur day nights. $$ p e h

“gourmet burgers” and trimmings, has now landed in two East End locations. Despite a full bar , it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$

LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447. One of the most popular places in town for brunch, Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungr y cr owds with its hear ty far e and funky decor . L ynn’s sponsors the State Fair’ s tongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp Contest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling food. $$ p ✿

ROOSTER’S 7405 Pr eston Hwy ., 964-9464. This Columbus-based wings-and-br ews chain conquered Ohio and is now spr eading its franchise wings acr oss the Eastern U.S. Its first Louisville property is gaining popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ p f h

MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ ✿ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Thir d St., 636-2511. A fine, family Louisville tradition, this familiar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the state’ s largest full-ser vice restaurant and the city’ s largest caterer. Serving a lunch buffet Mon.-Fri., 10 a.m.-2 p.m. only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2901 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4939662, 3921 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412-5229. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that star ted in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a steady formula of friendly service and casual-dining far e that ranges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads to mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f ✿ MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiar y of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its r eputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barr et A ve., 5822433. A popular spot in the urban neighbor hood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a r elaxed ambience and welcoming ser vice. The new r ooftop patio adds another dimension to the fun. $ p f e h ✿ NORMA JEAN’S TRACKSIDE 119 W. Main St., LaGrange, KY, 222-8044. This Oldham County favorite has evolved over the years, taking on a mor e upscale touches, but hosts Norma and John Burley consistently make it feel a lot like home. $$ p f ✿ O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’ s, Inc. could serve well as the pictur e in the dictionar y next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 pr operties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, ser ving a straightfor ward steakand-seafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Four th St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’ s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakr oom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buf fet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency of fers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$$p h ✿ PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Live 569-7782. Owned by Cincinnati’ s The T avern Restaurant Group, The Pub featur es “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfr edo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. The Robin, a Seattle-based chain well r egarded for RED = ADVERTISER

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RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy ., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby T uesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “A wesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p h ✿ THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eater y in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations fr om Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿ SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757. Opened by a man named Sam some 16 years ago, this popular Southern Indiana institution feeds an army of happy diners. Y ou’ll find seafood, steaks, pastas, salads and desser ts. The menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p h ✿ SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy ., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr ., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s top choices for fast r oadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bar dstown Rd., 473-1234, Plainview V illage Center, 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy ., 937-4020, 426 W . Market St., 561-9999 721-0093, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln. Louisville’ s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eateries offer the r egional favorite (r eally it’ s Gr eek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fastfood dishes. $ h ✿ SPORTSVILLE GRILL & BAR 4004 Gardiner Point Dr., 753-4413. Y ou’ll find a varied menu and a sports-bar theme at Spor tsville Grill, dining r oom of the Holiday Inn Airport East. $$ p ✿ STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy ., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr ., 326-3625, 980 E. Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿ TGI FRIDA Y’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congr egate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its par ty atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿ TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099. A historic theater building (long a landmark junque shop) lends a funky atmospher e to T oast, a local breakfast and lunch favorite. Chef Geor ge Morris’s simple yet exciting menu adds a tongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner far e. $ p f ✿ TOMMY LANCASTER’S REST AURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2389. V alue and variety ar e the str ong points of this community tradition and the far e goes fr om burgers to steak. Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $$ p

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TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café far e in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of ever ything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home ver y late on a Saturday night. It’ s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿ THE VILLA BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The V illa Buf fet offers an impressive choice of international dishes, with some 150 selections. A seafood buf fet is featured on Fridays. $$ ✿ VERSATILE 962 Baxter Ave., 583-0320. $$

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WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy . 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour’ s drive up the Ohio fr om Louisville, pr oprietors Will and Laura Crawfor d welcome visitors to this cozy destination, of fering a comfor tably sophisticated bill of fare that would in no way be out of place in a fancy city bistro. $$ ✿ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h XAVIER’S 120 W. Broadway (Holiday Inn), 582-2241. The dining r oom in the Holiday Inn Downtown sports a moniker that evokes memories of the historic St. Xavier High School building that stood on this site for mor e than a century until the Holiday Inn was built in 1963. $$ p ✿

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’ s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a r eliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a r ootsy atmosphere. $ h BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’ s may be the most hospitable place in the W est End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smother ed pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, gr een beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can scent a whif f of Louisville history coming of f the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of fr ying grease. The bar food her e is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the ver y hear t of American comfor t food, including gr een beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h

h = LATE NIGHT

COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countr yside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Br own. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy ., 637-4325. Now under new management by the Kr eso family , Cottage Inn spor ts a bright new look, and it continues happily doling out the kind of excellent down-home food it has ser ved for mor e than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Thir d St., 588-2003. Dir t-cheap blue-plate specials and hear ty br eakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, gr een beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’ s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD F AMILY RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfor t far e. The word on the str eet, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿ GENNY’S DINER 2223 Frankfor t A ve., 893-0923. What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’ s. Better still, you can get a darn good meal at Genny’ s, provided that you set your expectations for hear ty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., 2582540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $ HAZELWOOD REST AURANT 4106 T aylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheesebur gers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standar d shor t or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain ser ves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 4901 Poplar Level Rd., 964-5749, 2901 Fern V alley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Thir d St., 363-2535. Gr own fr om a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of af fordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿ JESSIE’S FAMILY RESTAURANT 9609 Dixie Hwy ., 937-6332. Countr y cooking is Jessie’ s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS FAST FOOD 2101 W. Br oadway, 772-7138. This tiny , color ful W est End eatery , open for takeout only , of fers a vast selection of filling, affordable urban far e that ranges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and mor e. $ h KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ MR. LOU’S COUNTR Y COTT AGE REST AURANT 5408 V alley Station Rd., 933-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show of f Mr. Lou’s countr y cooking style. Roast chicken is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ ✿ NINNY’S-N-NEW ALBANY 506 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-1235. Home cooking like Mom used to make, assuming that Mom was an excellent cook. The Ninny Bur ger is a signatur e item, but you can settle down to a much mor e serious steak dinner for evening chow. $

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O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites ar e available fr om br eakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410, 2835 Holman Ln., Jef fersonville, IN, 288-8133. The original Our Best, a fine family r estaurant in Henry County, is rapidly growing into a chain, with two properties in the big city now. $$ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year r ound. Racing history on the walls and ser vers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secr et: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfor t food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. W ith the Ohio River a block away , it’s aptly named. $ ✿ CRAVINGS A LA CAR TE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli of fers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar , and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $ ✿ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Stor y A ve., 583-0437. Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and fr om offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king T ommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety , Piccadilly offers r oast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measur e. $ ✿ SOUTH SIDE INN 114 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 945-5966. New Albany’s historic South Side Inn is dishing up cafeteria far e again under new ownership after having been closed for several months. It’s still serving down-home fare, in muchrenovated and spruced-up surroundings. $

DERBY DINNER PLA YHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr ., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’ s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buf fet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e ✿ HOWL A T THE MOON Fourth Str eet Live, 5629400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that featur es a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? Y ou’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h 68 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. “Awesome dining, extr eme fun, wher e family fun hits maximum over drive” is the pr omise at this giant dining and enter tainment venue. It’s not just for kids: Chef Patrick Dale, a Sullivan graduate with 17 years of chef and management experience who helped cater the Grammy Awards in Los Angeles in 2006, offers an upscale menu in a signatur e dining room at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿ JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the pr oduce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e LUCKY STRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Street Live, 560-1400. An upscale bowling alley? A classy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts fr om Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian Foster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle retro and high-tech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f h ✿ MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. T alk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner T rain offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railr oad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations ar e str ongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p ✿ STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riverside Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1565. The Ohio River cruise is the best thing about this Love Boat-style yacht that makes nightly all-you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f ✿ STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fr esh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away , and that fresh produce shows up on the tables her e in mammoth por tions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, r oast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿

ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$ ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $ ✿ ANGIO’S REST AURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eater y attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’ s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany , IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿ BEARNO’S PIZZA (13 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 15 locations. $ p ✿ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ BRUNO’S PIZZERIA & PUB 1919 S. Pr eston, 6341003. $$ p f h ✿ CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿ RED = ADVERTISER

CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMP ANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jef fersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Br ewing Company. That’s a fine pedigr ee, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany , IN., 944-4942, 3093 Br eckinridge Ln., 452-6700. Serious bar gain-hunters will find Cici’ s culinar y offer har d to beat. This Dallas-based chain ser ves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfor t A ve., 893-3730. Clifton’s pizza appeals to me with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with gr own-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of my favorite local pizzerias. $ f e h ✿ DANNY MAC’S P ASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 635-7994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ ✿ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ h ✿ FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfor t A ve., 891-4555; 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040; 13829 English V illa Dr., 244-0840; 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly neighborhood nook of fers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The L yndon spot lur es a friendly biker cr owd; the Cr escent Hill eatery r eflects its urban setting. $ ✿ FRESCO SOUTHWEST GRILL & PIZZA 2047 Lytle St., 776-6077. Locally owned and operated but with development as a chain in its business plan, this comfor table, welcoming spot opened first in the city’ s r estaurant-underserved Por tland neighborhood, of fering fast-food style and a choice of well-made burritos and other Mexican-style goodies and pizza, too. $ f h ✿ FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000. Just ar ound the corner fr om the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿ HERO’S NEW YORK PIZZA 10509 Watterson Trail, 261-9339. This attractive venue brings an authentic taste of New York to an historic building on Jeffersontown’s Town Square. Hero’s scores with fans of crisp, thin-crust New Y ork-style pizza, but don’t stop ther e: Many other Italian-style goodies offer a taste of the Big Apple, too. $$ p f ✿ HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Squar e Shopping Center , 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, str omboli and cold beer ar e available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿ J TRAIN PIZZA & PUB 201 Spring St., Jef fersonville, IN, 283-3663. Owner Joel Stinnett of fers New York style pizza in this new eater y named for the New York subway line he r ode when he lived in the Big Apple. $$ f e h ✿ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss A ve., 637-5406. Old-timers ar e delighted to see Jockamo’ s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depar ted Bardstown Road. Some of the original owners (except the late Dave W ilder) have r ecreated the style, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e ✿ LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA 816 Kenwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 Galene Dr ., 267-8600, 5622 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800, 6714 Outer Loop, 966-3111, 12418 LaGrange Rd., 241-5445. This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market shar e in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its

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two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿

8286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a stur dy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$

LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy ., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’ s, this local pizzeria makes good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿

PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿

LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New Y ork City-style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on just about ever y str eet corner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿ MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for -family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. Third St., 363-2211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2247 S. Pr eston St., 635-6708, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to r each Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgr ounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr ., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story: NABC combines the fine pies of Spor tstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’ s, Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with mor e than 100 selections fr om ar ound the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbavor e” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OAK STREET PIZZA 125 E. Oak St., 585-1788. This tiny spot is built for carry-out only: Y ou can walk out with a single slice or a whole pie. It’ s already winning applause fr om beyond its neighbor hood for hand-tossed, New Y ork-style pizza of exceptional quality . Deliver y is available over a wide region. $ h ✿

SICILIAN PIZZA & P ASTA 631 S. Four th St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ h SIR DANO’S PIZZA P ARLOR 469 N. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿ SLICE OF NEW YORK 9910 Linn Station Rd., 3393553. A variety of quick family-Italian dishes ar e available her e, but the primary attraction r emains authentic, thin-crust New York City-style pizza. $$ ✿ SNAPPY TOMA TO 4005 Shelbyville Rd., 8957511, 1000 Br ownsboro Rd., 412-6205, 13206 W. Hwy . 42, 228-9990. A Midwestern pizzadelivery chain based in Northern Kentucky, Snappy Tomato says its pizzas ar e made with fr esh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamonapple pizza “pie”); and the chicken wings ar e impressive. $$ h ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter A ve., 568-5665. This tiny stor efront in the city’ s nightclub zone offers a tasty option for the wide-eyed-late-at-night crowd seeking good cheap eats; it’ s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesday thr ough Satur day. Better yet, it gives Louisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly-style pizza and r eal Philly cheese steaks. $ f h ✿ TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Pr eston Hwy ., 634-5400. Friendly ser vice and sizzling pies make this neighbor hood pizzeria a favorite under any name. $$ ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-

style far e. T ony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿ TONY BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & VINO 2813 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 394-0000. Flagship of the Boombozz flotilla, this East End establishment takes the local mini-chain’s winning pizza concept to a higher level. The “fast casual” facility features the awar d-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis available at its other mostly takeout shops, but presents it for dining in a striking “urban loft” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale accent, plus wellchosen wine and beer lists. $$ p h ✿ TONY IMPELLIZZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr., 4290606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old strip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses br other Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza style, it’s a treat not to be missed. $$$$ ✿ UNCLE TUBBY’S 3014 Middle Rd., Jeffersonville IN, 288-8850. This Jef fersonville tradition, now in the historic r edbrick Quadrangle, builds its pizzas Indiana-style, “party-cut” in squares, with toppings all the way to the edge. Crackery paper thin crust is amply blanketed with cheese, tangy sauce and toppings to make an exceptionally good pie. $$ e VARSITY PIZZA & PINTS 6825 Central A ve., Crestwood, KY, 243-1101. $$ p f h ✿ WICKS PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Cr eek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 9954333. W ick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eateries. The pies ar e straightfor ward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿

OLD CHICAGO P ASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700. This gr owing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bar dstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Br ownsboro Rd. Impellizzeri’ s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has r eturned to the Highlands! Benny Impellizzeri’ s latest ventur e is already attracting happy cr owds to the quar ters vacated by Alameda. $$$ p f h ✿ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZZA 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mudd Ln., 962-7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 266-7000, 161 Outer Loop, 361-3444; 4607 Outer Loop, 964-7272; 12535 Shelbyville Rd., 2539191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 239-8282, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ ✿ PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-r estaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿ PIZZA BY THE GUY 814 Lyndon Ln., 426-4044. This locally owned franchise, now in lar ger quar ters, wins its fans’ praise for extra spicy sauce and handtossed dough. $ h ✿ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ ✿ PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 282-

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WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desir es. $$ WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ h ✿ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$

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AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carr ots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals wer e harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car , go to a car dealer . To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945, 11201 Oscar Rd., 339-2908. The open flame at these counter-service diner pr ovides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fr esh salads, fruit cobblers and old-fashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ ✿ BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 5878260. $ h BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960. Sublime subs — fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿ BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 6356747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner fare vaults it into the r ealm of serious destinations for hard-core “foodies,” with extra cr edit for friendly, welcoming service. $ p f h ✿ CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty car toons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it of fers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ ✿ THE CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 8953270. $ f e ✿ DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿ DERBY CITY DOGS 960 Baxter Ave., 561-2880. This walk-up hot-dog stor efront ser ves Nathan’s brand all beef hot dogs with gourmet style toppings, bratwurst, corn dogs, veggie dogs, side dishes, ice cream and smoothies — they’ll even give your r eal doggie a tr eat if she’ s along with you. Catering to the nightclub cr owd, it’s open until 5 a.m. on the weekends. $ f h ✿ DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli of fers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DOWN TO LUNCH CAFÉ 239 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ ✿

an impr essive variety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCA TESSEN 980 Br eckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cr eam cheese, sausage, eggs and cof fee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Br eckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon bur ger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with thr ee meats or a fr esh veggie wrap. Soups, desser ts top of f the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 6010 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. This Oldham County shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes fr om lasagna to baked ziti. $ p h ✿ HEAVENLY HAM 3602 Nor thgate Cr t, New Albany , IN, 941-9426. This franchise location of the “spiralsliced, honey-spice glazed” ham-to-go chain of fers sandwiches of the trademark pr oduct. There’s also smoked turkey, as well as box lunches, ham and smoked turkey by the pound or in bulk. $ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292. $ JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101. Don’t look for New Y ork kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites ar e lining up at its Hurstbourne location for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿ JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 967 Baxter A ve., 5870550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W . Jefferson St., 625-7101, 1321 S. Hurstbour ne Pkwy., 425-4515. This Illinois-based sandwich-shop chain of fers a wide selection of standar d-issue subs that benefit from fr esh quality ingr edients. W e’re par ticularly smitten with the alternative br ead option, thicksliced seven-grain or wrapped with lettuce. Try the “Gourmet Veggie Club” for a vegetarian tr eat. $ f

h✿ JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Br ook, 635-7410. For a r eal slice of Louisville life, this weather ed greasy spoon at the corner of Br ook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on bur gers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chance he’ s sitting at Juanita’ s counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h JUST FRESH BAKER Y CAFÉ & MARKET 1255 Bardstown Rd., 451-2324. A national chain of fers fast-food fare billed as healthy and natural. $$f ✿ KC’S CHICAGO HOT DOG STAND 1770 Bardstown Rd., 454-9727. Walk up to this small stand and load up a V ienna All Beef hotdog “Chicago style” with mustard, ketchup, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, salt, pepper and neon-green relish. There’s also corn dogs, and Hawaiian shave ice. No indoor dining, but some seats out front. $ f ✿

DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back mor e than 50 years and hasn’ t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and of fers good value for what you’d expect. $ f

LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 949-7567. Ever y city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and grill up a burger. In New Albany , the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gravy , fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems like a thr owback to the hear tland of America, circa 1940. $ f h ✿

DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. Third St., 584-8060. A downtown deli favorite. Daily specials are surrounded by

LONNIE’S BEST T ASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380, 1034 Bardstown Rd., 451-

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2965. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. Lotsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food stor e, and it has been a local favorite for mor e than 20 years. It now of fers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic international selection of sausages and cheese. A large sit-down section offers a comfortable place to enjoy cof fee, pastry and sandwiches made to order in the deli. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EA TERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet historic district, this fashionable deli lur es the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MARKET ON MARKET 445 E. Market St., 568-8810. Sharing the ground floor of the r enovated, historic Cobalt building with Primo, this upscale market brings gr ocery options to the gr owing live-in population east of downtown, and an inviting deli for sandwiches and salads, too. $ ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bar dstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality customer ser vice, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting boar d favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ ✿ MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Kar em Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few cr owded tables — it’ s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfor t Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighbor hood gathering spot. Of ferings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the pr emises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Thir d St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’ s one of the nation’s few sur viving tr olleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spr ead acr oss the nation in the ’70s. Oversize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up of fers the inviting atmospher e of dr opping in to someone’ s home for lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿ PANERA BREAD CO. 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8999992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400. Warm breads finish-baked on the pr emises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, cof fee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot make Panera’ s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿ PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Br ownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 T aylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’ s popular sour ces for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $✿

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hearty por tions of well pr epared and af fordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f

PENN ST ATION (16 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿ QUIZNO’S SUBS (16 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups ar e available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ SAMMI JO’S SANDWICHES & MORE Shelby St., 365-1809. $

1496 S.

BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666. Featuring hickor y-smoked T ennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, af fordable dinners, this long-time East End favorite has added two more neighborhood locations. $

SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr ., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s of fered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style far e, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿

BRUCE’S SMOKEHOUSE & BALLP ARK GRILL 3065 Breckenridge Ln., 459-5201. $$

SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End stor efront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good r eviews for simple br eakfast and lunch far e ser ved in friendly surroundings. $ ✿

FAMOUS DA VE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2812, 1360 V eterans Pkwy ., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Geor gia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The impor tant thing, though, is the food, and Dave’ s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f

SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿ STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bar dstown Rd., 5843354. Sharing space with the popular Ditto’ s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily known for catering and takeout far e. They cook just as well if you choose to stay in, though, of fering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $ ✿ SUB ST ATION II 3101 Fern V alley Rd., 964-1075. The har dy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the stor e buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desser ts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿ THEATER SQUARE DELI 22 Theater Squar e, 5840364. This popular downtown eatery thrives through a simple, ef fective formula that packs in crowds daily: Feed the lunch bunch quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches. $ f ✿ THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 367-8394. $

5103 S. Thir d St.,

TUSCANO’S 4100 Pr eston Hwy., 364-9998. Sharing space with the Noble Romans pizzeria, T uscano’s adds a br oader menu of subs, sandwiches and wraps to Noble Roman’s pizza fare. $ h ✿ W.W. COUSINS REST AURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eater y looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metr opolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner W ay (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Of fering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will ser ve in-house diners or take or ders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Pr eston Hwy ., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue of fers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out

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CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 6728 Johnsontown Rd., 9335577. If it’ s a little of f the beaten path, ther e’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Boy’ s r easonably priced W estern Kentucky-style barbecue is well worth a special trip. Like many mom ’n’ pop eateries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $

FINLEY’S HICKOR Y SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W. Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips ar e the specialty but you’ll find turkey legs, ham, half-chickens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork — all for dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bar dstown Rd., 239-7800, 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy ., 9957585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat hear tily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fir e depar tments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr ., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue meats skillfully smoked on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good T exas-style barbecue fr om a little wooden shack that looks just like a countr y BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f KENTUCKY BBQ CO. 1800 Frankfor t A ve., 8953419. The folks formerly known as the Bourbon Brothers offer first-rate ribs and smoked meats in this older Clifron venue. $$ p f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hwy . 131, Clarksville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first r estaurant’s location in a former feed stor e with that downhome countr y feel, Mark’ s impr esses with highquality hickor y-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauce, the yellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om General Electric’ s Appliance Park, this Louisville r elative of a famous W estern Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ f PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, grills outdoors year ‘r ound, placing hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry business district. $ f PIG CITY BBQ 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-3535. Down-home and honest, the name of this popular Middletown barbecue eater y pr etty much says it all. Smoke ’em if you’ve got ’em — and they do — with all cherry wood. $$ f

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PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr ., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixtur e, now of fers its smoky T exas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $ RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this W est End landmark in a one-time neighbor hood gr ocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ f h RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 300 W. Chestnut St., 922-3156, Barbecue meister Kalvin Br own, who presided over the smokers at the W est End RiteWay for many years, now brings his skills to a downtown establishment with similar far e but no business connection to the original. $ p e h RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be of f the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secr et BBQ recipes. $ p f e h SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la car te and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 4293907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this T exMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the the Smoketown neighbor hood. Ribs ar e juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $ f ✿ SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A pr operty of Orlando’ s Dar den fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Gar den and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a spor ts-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TONY ROMA ’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 3278500. From the tomato tang to a smoky Blue Ridge savor, Roma’s advertises its ribs as the best dr essed in town. Bur gers, chicken and steaks ar e available as well, but we r ecommend the racks and baby backs of pork and beef. $$$ p VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. U.S. 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name remains on this neighborhood joint out the road in Oldham County. $ WOOD CITY GRILL 612 S. Fifth St., 290-0518. The lunchtime cr owds that flock to W ood City find more than just another barbecue pit. Chef Allen Sims comes fr om a long line of barbecue cooks, and he boasts experience in the kitchen at Vincenzo’s. A wide variety of meats — even goat — comes with exotic sauces that span the globe. $

19TH GREEN PUB & GRILL 1740 W illiamsburg Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 284-9088. $ p f h BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy ., 2542322, 5628 Bar dstown Rd., 239-2226, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 327-5496, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316. If you think your basic spor ts pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer , take another look: Beef O’Brady’ s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ h BENTLEY’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 2800 Crums Ln., 778-8886. The familiar range of bar and grill 72 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

fare and libations will make the neighbors feel at home in this new West End watering hole. $ p BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out fr ont says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORTS CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’Connor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and spor ts bar . Riley died befor e their dream came true. But now O’Connor pr oudly presides over this 90-seat casual Jef fersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule.” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pkwy ., 326-9830. Restaurant owner and namesake Keith Br own used to host neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home. Now he brings the same sociable concept to his pub and eater y. Louisville’ s of ficial home for Cincy Bengals fans, Br ownie’s may be the closest thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighbor hood saloon. $ p h BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW -3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635. As much a spor ts bar as a r estaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type far e, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464. $ p f h CHAMPIONS SPOR TS REST AURANT 280 W . Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a galler y of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flowing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL 2745 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f ✿ CONNOR’S PLACE 132 E. Market St., New Albany , IN, 590-3377. Connor’ s Place, which developed a good following in its shor t life in the Bader Building, is moving but not depar ted. Look for Dave Himmel to open this new incarnation shortly. $pfeh DANNY BOY’S 1101 S. Clark Blvd., Clarksville IN, 283-3566. $ p e h DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860. It’s not quite as historic as Gideon Shr yock’s Jefferson County Cour thouse ar ound the corner , but this popular bar and shor t-order spot seems as if it has been a hangout for lawyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as ther e’s been a Courthouse. $ p ✿ DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿ DUBLIN’S CELLAR 942 Baxter Ave., 583-2969. This welcoming spot on the Baxter nightlife strip of fers a friendly embrace to those in sear ch of pub grub and music with a Hibernian accent. $ p f e h FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 L ydia St., 6379136. Family-owned since 1952, Flabby’ s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’s top destinations for inexpensive downhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes to fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $ ✿ FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’ s one of the best options in the city. $$ p f h RED = ADVERTISER

FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table ser vice featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a W ichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiar d tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿ GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondar y to booze and sports her e, the food goes well beyond mer e pub grub. $ p e h ✿ GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Thir d St., 635-6475. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this stur dy r edbrick tavern just north of the university campus of fers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled far e plus pizza. It’ s per haps best known, though, for the signatur e Granville Bur ger, widely reputed as one of the best bur gers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr . (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airpor t Hilton. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer gar den, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p h HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: spor ts, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot wher e hot wings and hoops r eign supreme. $ p f h ✿ ICE BREAKERS 252 E. Market St., 618-2050. Picking up where a string of nightspot eateries have left off in this ar ts-district venue, Ice Br eakers bids for success with a simple, appetizing mix of soups, salads, sandwiches and pizza — and libations of course — with the grill menu available until bar closing time. $ p f e h INDIGO JOE’S SPOR TS PUB & REST AURANT 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1633. Louisville’ s first outpost of a growing Los Angeles-based chain, Indigo Joe’ s is a family-friendly American-style spor ts bar . It features large portions and 44 flat-screen televisions, with speakers on the tables so diners can tune in the sporting event of their choice. $$ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $ p JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 L ynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 288-2100. Quality, af fordable far e that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse bur ger and barbecued ribs so tender , they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls of f. $ p e h ✿ THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jef fersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern envir onment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿ MAGGIE’S NEIGHBORHOOD BAR & GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. Just off Jeffersontown’s old T own Squar e, this neighbor hood gathering place offers casual diner-style far e in a spor ts bar setting with a fine fir eplace to add atmospher e. $$

pfh✿ MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-0013. This full ser vice restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a

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couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p MY BAR 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany IN, 948-6501. $

pfeh NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h NV T AVERN 1202 Bar dstown Rd., 452-6101. The little Cribstone Pub has closed, but this little Highlands eatery was too lovable to stay dark for long. Look for libations and appetizing bar far e here. $ p f e h PUCKER’S BAR & GRILL 4041 Preston Hwy., 3647250. This South-end spot of fers a good-size dining r oom and a par ticularly attractive alfr esco patio. The bill of far e appears longer and mor e varied than your typical bar menu, our correspondent reports. $ p f e h RUSTIC FROG 1720 Old River Rd., New Albany IN, 608-2543. $ p f e h SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two r estaurants in one, Saints featur es both a small, intimate, candle-lighted r oom and a lar ger, happily boister ous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ p e h ✿ SPORTS PAGE GRILL 3701 Hopewell Rd., 263-7130 $eh STUDIO’S GRILLE & PUB 207 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 590-3171. Add Studio’ s to the downtown New Albany Renaissance. Replacing Connor’s Place in the old Bader Building, T rish Meyer’s fine dining r oom and bar of fers an historic envir onment, a stylish outdoor cour tyard and a galler y of local art. $$ p f h SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Four th St., (Four th Street Live) 585-4100. $$ p f h TAILGATERS SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Billed as a pr emier destination for good food and lots of fun, this casual spot next to Papa John’ s Stadium featur es classic American favorites and seafood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game r oom. $ p f e h TENGO SED CANTINA 432B Fourth St., 540-1461. “Tengo Sed” is Spanish for “I’m thirsty,” and if that’s your pr oblem, you can easily solve it in this popular Latino-accented watering hole in Four th Street Live. A selection of Cancun-style star ters, tacos and sandwiches is available. $$ p f h THE BACK DOOR 2787 S. Floyd St., 637-5241. Longtime owners John Dant and Mike Ewing are known for running one of the city’s friendliest pubs at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limited bar far e, but don’ t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h THE MENU ON THE RIVER 100 Riverside Dr ., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. When Jimmy’s on the River vacated this river front spot in Jef f, the proprietors of The Main Menu in New Albany saw an oppor tunity and took it, moving their entir e operation over her e, of fering pub grub and libations with a great river view. $ p f TURKEY JOE’S 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 3279464. Turkey Joe’s advertises “Wings, Burgers and More,” but hot wings are the specialty, and you can take your pick of chicken, turkey or boneless chicken pr epared by a Sullivan-trained chef in a comfortable sports-bar setting. $ p h VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $ WOODY’S PUB & GRILL 12205 Westport Rd., 3278002. Woody’s offers a lively sports bar concept in this East End venue near the Ford Kentucky Truck plant. $ p f h ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZoo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and welcoming neighborhood bar feeling. $ p f e h ✿

h = LATE NIGHT

recently moved fr om tiny quar ters to this mor e inviting suburban location. $ BLUEGRASS BREWING COMP ANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224. A must-stop destination for beer lovers on the national ar tisanal-brew trail, but it’ s mor e than just a br ewpub. BBC’ s management gives equally serious attention to both liquid and solid fare, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer . $ p f e ✿ BROWNING’S BREWER Y 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0174. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Br owning’s of fers br ewpub beers plus appetizing fare that extends well beyond mer e pub grub. $$ p f e ✿ CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “micr obrewery,” Cumberland Br ews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (see review under Pizza)

BLUE NILE ETHIOPIAN 558 S. Fifth St., 625-7400. Missing the Ethiopian dishes at the now-closed Café Kilimanjaro? Weep no more — Ethiopian returns to downtown with this welcoming lunch spot, with a choice of buffet or menu service. $ h ✿ CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN REST AURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’ s international dining scene, with gener ous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om W est Africa. This friendly place

✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS

 = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿

#1 ASIAN BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-6033. Not just another in the her d of all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fets, this 350 seat eater y is the first between-the-coasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ ✿ 8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet of ferings stay fr esh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿ AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinar y oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and fr om the staf f makes it a top spot for Asian far e. A lovely patio at the r ear affords an alfr esco dining experience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f ✿ www.foodanddine.com Summer 2008 73


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BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113. An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not of fer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿

CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-8887. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently wellprepared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-0099, 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ ✿

CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿

DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly r efreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genr e. $ ✿

DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿

CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ ✿ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿ CHINA SEA BUFFET 12689 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0838. $ ✿ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN REST AURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ ✿

DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buffet in a chic East End shopping strip, of fers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buf fet. The far e seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿ DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868. The continuing pr oliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to r eport that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bar dstown Rd., 4591259. A Highlands staple for good r eason. This portion of Café Mimosa does a brisk business. The Sesame Chicken is one of our favorites. $$ p ✿ EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 426-1717. One of Louisville’ s fanciest and most notewor thy Chinese restaurants, the Emper or’s quar ters ar e stylishly str ewn acr oss multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ p ✿ EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿

FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN P ALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 368-1833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton r estaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Of fering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿ GREAT WOK 2502 Pr eston Hwy ., 634-1918. Just about ever y shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of wor d-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bar gainbasement price. $ ✿ HAPPY DRAGON 2600 W . Br oadway, 778-2573. Catering to of fice and r esidential customers, this Chinese restaurant has ser ved the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f ✿ HONG KONG CHINESE REST AURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿ HONG KONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. Thir d St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot of fers Cantonese standar ds hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿ HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿ JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 8930822. Y et another lar ge, shiny , all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi r olls. $ ✿ JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. When I’ve got a hankering for brunch, I choose Chinese. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’ t miss it at mid-day Friday thr ough Monday, when it of fers the metr o ar ea’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿ JASMINE 13823 English V illa Dr ., 244-8896. A charming Asian eater y, wher e you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventur ous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿ JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buf fet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the growing niche of glitzy Chinese chrome-andplastic buf fets, King Buf fet of fers a standar d selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ ✿ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’ s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok of fers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buf fet. $ ✿ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188. Genial host Roland W ong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few V ietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ ✿ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fr esh, competent cooker y and cour teous,

74 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

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e

the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the most af fordable. $ ✿

LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics fr om China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ ✿

WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese far e. Family-owned-andoperated, this popular neighbor hood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿

friendly ser vice that makes you feel like you’r visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿

NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ ONION REST AURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany , IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy r estaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿ ORCHID ASIAN CAFÉ 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 948-8887. Pr oprietor Danny T ran is a r ecent arrival fr om Ohio, wher e his family owns and operates several restaurants. His New Albany entry offers Chinese and a broader range of Asian fare in an upscale atmosphere that places it well above the chopsticks-house category. $ f ✿ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. One of the oldest continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a notch under new owners, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese. $ p ✿ ORIENTAL ST AR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time ar ea favorite in this heavy traf fic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿ PANDA CHINESE REST AURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED PEPPER CHINESE CUISINE 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8868. W ith a skilled Sichuanese chef who’s owned a r estaurant in Chicago’s Chinatown and cooked at Chinese embassies ar ound the world, Red Pepper starts out in the top tier of local Chinese r estaurants. Chinese-American standar ds are well done, but we r ecommend the authentic Chinese menu, which is available in English $ ✿

YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is color ful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ f ✿ YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿ YUMMY CHINESE REST AURANT 968-7450, 8625 Preston Hwy. $ ✿

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’ s sole Filipino eater y of fers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are af fordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buf fet. $

ASAHI JAP ANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small r oom in a new St. Matthews building formerly housed Sahara Grill, a fine but short-lived Persian r estaurant. Now it gives way to this neighborhood sushi spot wher e awar d-winning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ ✿

BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿

8007 Hwy . 311,

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a stor efront just across the street from the courthouse. $ ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual) FUJI JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your or der, then sit back, sip your tea while the ar tist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAP ANESE REST AURANT 6027 T imber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi has earned quite a local following at Shogun. Now he brings his sushi knives to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in W estport V illage. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon of fers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shor e Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the of fer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿

RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Pr eston Hwy ., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0428, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SESAME CHINESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not just another shopping-center Chinese r estaurant, this East End eatery has provided some of the best fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p ✿ SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. W arnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swor ds as spoons. Shah’ s carries their spirit for ward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $✿ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. One of my favorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Gar den of fers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of far e. $ ✿ TEA ST ATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Nor ton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. Not just another fastfood chopsticks house, this comfor table, sit-down Chinese r estaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but gr owing cluster of businesses in the Nor ton Commons village center. $$ f ✿ WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. This corner spot has housed a variety of restaurants over

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KANSAI JAP ANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9238. T raditional Japanese dishes and sushi ar e available her e, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿ KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese r estaurant is drawing cr owds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be r elied on to fashion fr esh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿ MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar , cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”style r estaurant in the style of Kansai, the r egion surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’ s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of ar tisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829. This small, attractive Highlands spot, operated by sushi chefs who’ve put in time at the popular Sappor o, has been attracting raves from neighborhood sushi lovers. $$ ✿ OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501. This bright and cheer y Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city. Local sushi aficionados say it’s lost a step since the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ ✿ RAW SUSHI LOUNGE 520 S. Four th St., 585-5880. Raw makes good use of hip quar ters in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners may choose fr om a br oad selection of competent sushi and Japanese fair, plus fine international seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e h ✿

SAKE BLUE JAP ANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. Just opened in June, this new addition to the Fern Cr eek dining scene offers the “full-ser vice” Japanese r estaurant experience of hibachi grill tables and sushi bar , along with a traditional dining r oom and cocktail bar. $$ p f h ✿

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s few r estaurants devoted entir ely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is wor th a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿

SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quar ters in a St. Matthews shopping center , Sakura Blue — dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿

LEE’S KOREAN REST AURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secr et since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an of fice building, but push past the counter to the back r oom, wher e you’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic Kor ean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿

SAPPORO JAP ANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550. Trendy, even glitzy, with hard-edged industrial decor — and most important, excellent food — Sappor o ranks in my ratings as the city’s No. 1 spot for sushi and Japanese far e. $$$ p h ✿

PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA LOUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 295-2441. This popular Highlands spot boasts an edgy, high-tech Japanese style, complete with a live video wall. Look for lighter Asian far e, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of teas, sakes and techno-Japanese cocktails. $ p ✿

SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake W ay, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and ser vice make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’ s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in ser vice, and most impor tant, this East End sushi bar ser ves excellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿

ARIRANG 12567 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9838. This Middletown-area neighbor hood spot of fers a fine selection of Korean dishes, plus sushi. $ p ✿

MAI’S THAI REST AURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’ s is the eater y to beat among the metr o ar ea’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿ SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, of fering a small menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f ✿ THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family of fer a small but well-pr epared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿ THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai r estaurant, this Gar diner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, per haps responding to its r egular visitors’ pr eferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Pr eston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” r epresents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana. The “Smile” represents my r eaction to its simple but ver y well prepared Thai far e. Don’ t ask for the five-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangkok befor e moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. W oodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Café ranks not just as one of my favorite Vietnamese r estaurants, but one the city’ s best of any variety, par ticularly when value and price ar e taken into account. Authentic V ietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿ CAFÉ MIMOSA 1216 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2233. Dating back to the ’80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management still offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as well as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p ✿ CAFÉ THUY V AN 5600 National T urnpike, 3666959. A bit of f the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service 76 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

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overcomes any language barrier , and prices ar e hard to beat. Don’ t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿ LA QUE 1019 Bar dstown Rd., 238-3981. Replacing the original Lemongrass in the Highlands (which continues to operate its suburban pr operties), La Que offers a similar blend of Vietnamese and other Asian cuisine. $ f h ✿ LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110, 106 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ h ✿ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy , this six-table South End spot is true authentic V ietnamese, and so ar e the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the ef fort if you love r eal Asian far e and inexpensive prices. $ ✿ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End stor efront is well wor th seeking out. The chef goes beyond the or dinary, preparing authentic V ietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor . I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or ser vice. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfor t A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple test: at the end of the meal, I must not miss meat. Zen Garden passes this test with flying wok and chopsticks. $ f ✿

BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658. This shopping-center stor efront has become a popular after -work gathering spot for the city’ s growing community of immigrants fr om Bosnia, for whom it’s a comfor table place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ h ✿

BRENDAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. Owner Tom O’Shea (also of Flanagan’s and O’Shea’s) has done a gr eat job of endowing this old St. Matthews saloon with an upscale feel, gourmet-style dining options and a ver y popular bar. $$ p e h ✿ IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. A warm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful place for a tall glass of Guinness, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f ✿ MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter A ve., 473-1222. A carefully constructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿ O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. Celebrating its 50th anniversar y this year, O’Shea’s offers a steady schedule of music, an assor tment of beers and mainstr eam American pub grub, fr om the cheesy fries to the Reuben sandwich. $$ p f e h ✿

AMERIGO 1871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-4040. Chef Anthony Lorie, once a chef at RA W and later a co-owner of Bluegrass Bistr o in the Derby City Antique Mall, now takes the helm of this new Italian-style East End spot, first Louisville outpost of a small but gr owing Nashville-based chain that has won applause for quality. $$$ p f h ✿ AMICI´ 316 Ormsby A ve., 637-3167. Restaurateurs Sharon and Scott Risinger host this inviting Italianstyle restaurant that brings a touch of T uscany to this attractive and historic Old Louisville building. $$ p f ✿ ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 326-5555. Y ou don’t have to be an Italian grandfather to play bocce, now that ther e ar e several venues ar ound town for this amiable game. The six-cour t suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by spor tscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eater y, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ ✿ BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’ s recipe has all the necessar y ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿

SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighbor hood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e h ✿

CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your or dinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery . This place dramatically exceeds expectations. Fr om warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jef fersonville, IN, 282-2665. The owners of popular Adrienne’ s Baker y in Jef fersonville have recently opened this new sit-down dining spot with an Italian theme. $$ f ✿

COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jef fersonville IN, 285-1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighbor hoods, Come Back Inn looks pr etty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’ t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿

BOSAN-MAK 3825 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456-1919. Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, familyowned BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ f ✿ DJULI 5312 S. Third St., 368-5199. Bosnian fare is the specialty in this tiny spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center . Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primar y clientele, but ever yone’s welcome to discover this hear ty Y ugoslavian cuisine. $ KRESO’S RESTAURANT 218 N. Third St., Bardstown KY, 348-9594. A former theater now houses a charming r estaurant run by a friendly Ukrainian couple. Lunch and dinner feature eclectic fare from Bosnian salads to W ienerschnitzel and goulash. There’s a lar ge bar , and the r enovated theatr e is available for parties and receptions. $$$ p

ERIKA’S GERMAN REST AURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a str ong German heritage, Louisville is woefully shor t on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungr y cr owds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fastfood quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel family comes straight fr om Bavaria to Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic far e. The setting has as authentic a feeling as the hear ty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

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LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley , formerly home to Butterfly Gar den (which moved nearby), is now back in business with a casual Italian and Continental theme. $$ f ✿ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. This popular suburban r estaurant will break loose from an Ohio-based chain this year to become independent. Its successful formula will remain, featuring hearty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas. $$$ p f h ✿ MELILLO’S 829 E. Market St., 540-9975. Adjacent to the locally owned and operated Felice V ineyards on East Market, Melillo’ s of fers hear ty and delicious home-style Italian-American far e — and you can enjoy it with a glass of vino. $$ p f ✿

Discover Italian without leaving the country When it comes to classic Italian American food, Rocky’s Italian Grill does it right. Recipes passed down from generations. Homemade whole wheat pizza dough prepared daily. Garden fresh ingredients. Meatballs rolled every day by hand. So whether you’re passionate about pizza or crazy about calzones, you’re sure to find your favorite Italian dish right here at Rocky’s. Two convenient locations serving lunch and dinner for dine in or carry out.

OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventur es of this national firm. Bright and noisy , it of fers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p h ✿ THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 339-7190, 9730 V on Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Dar den chain, Olive Gar den now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian r estaurant in the casual dining industry. Hear ty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿ PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Of fices for blocks ar ound empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hear ty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Satur days, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿ PORCINI 2730 Frankfor t A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining r oom and a stylish alfr esco patio facing busy Frankfor t Ave. make Por cini’s an even more popular destination, a place to see and be seen — and, while you’re at it, enjoy a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p ✿ PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and this ef fort may be his best yet. W ell-crafted Italian specialties range fr om pizzas and pasta to steak Flor entine, with a fine, all-Italian wine list to go along; all served with panache in sleek quar ters dominated by a towering white-tile pizza oven. $$$ p f ✿ PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but gr owing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property in the Shelbyville Road Plaza space that once housed Payless shoes. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes ar e served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-5575. Old-fashioned Italian-American family fare is ser ved up with a warm and casual welcome at Ray Parr ella’s, the latest ventur e of a family that’s been pleasing locals for a generation. $$ f ✿

EatAtRockys.com 715 W. Riverside Dr. (off I-65, on the River) Jeffersonville, IN 812.282.3844

10206 Westport Rd. (off I-265, across from The Home Depot) Louisville, KY 502.339.0808

ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riverside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844, 10206 W estport Rd., 339-0808. This longtime favorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choice of ItalianAmerican entrées, with a great view of the city from the Jeffersonville riverside location. $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desser ts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SAVINO’S ITALIAN FOOD 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $✿

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SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers ar e prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just of f I-71 at Buckner well wor th a special trip out from the city. $$ f ✿ TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’ t been over -served by restaurants, this good-sized stor efront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an exper t’s hand with hear ty, r ed-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ h ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfor t Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish V olare kicks that image up a notch. W ith a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore and host Majid Ghavami have secur ed Volare as the city’s top spot for suave Italian dining. $$$ p f ✿

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4955. Authentic Castilian far e includes a majestic paella. but the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ ✿ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega of fers diners the city’ s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar , featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center , 425-0949. Gifted young chef Fernando Mar tinez (also of Havana Rumba) hits the culinary jackpot with this East End hot spot. His international array of Spanish inspir ed small plates (“tapas”), imposing paella and libations has won critical acclaim and made Mojito a local favorite. $ p f h ✿ PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6461. This eater y’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only source of Argentinian cuisine. Steaks seared on authentic parrillada charcoal grills are a primar y draw, but ther e’s excellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f ✿

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4258892. W ith its br oad array of Indian r egional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this new spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its ar omatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ ✿ DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Gr ocery in the Highlands, this new location brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Cr eek neighbor hood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ ✿ INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490, 408 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy ., Clarksville, IN, 258-000. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, now with two locations, is a r egular contender for the city’ s top Indian spot. The expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good value. $ f ✿ KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’ s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh

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decor, an intriguingly exotic menu, and a level of careful, pr ofessional ser vice wor thy of a whitetablecloth dining room. $$$ p ✿

nor expensive, and it pr oduces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ ROYAL INDIA 4123 Oechsli Ave., 896-0025. Related by family to Kashmir Restaurant in Lexington, Royal India of fers a br oad menu of traditional Northern Indian far e. What’s more, it is curr ently the only place in Louisville where you can find the tasty vegetarian cuisine of Southern India. Highly recommended. $$ p ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN REST AURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this r estaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants. With a substantial lunch buf fet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN CUISINE 1702 Bardstown Rd., 4738889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buf fet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿

AL W ATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the r ecipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb bir yani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿ CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900. Joining the growing ranks of Louisville’s Persian restaurants, this small Highlands dining room is gaining good wor d-of-mouth for well-pr epared food and cordial service. $ ✿

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standar d American far e at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿ SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor , 426-9954, 153 S. English Station Rd., 244-1341, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 426-3440. Of fering authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, Shiraz quickly grew out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and color ful stor efront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; now it is expanding into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread and a variety of Persian delights. $ ✿

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfor t A ve., 896-4046; 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507; 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096; Fourth Street Live, 589-9245; 6661 Dixie Hwy, 9958805; 3115 S. 2nd St., 363-8888; 4005 Summit Plaza Dr., 326-3070. Rapidly expanding in its bid to grow into a r egional chain, this excellent, af fordable string of Cajun eateries has changed its corporate name (from Gumbo A Go-Go) to avoid trademark conflicts with a similarly named chain. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320, 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2080. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style far e is the draw at Joe’ s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

CACHITO MIO CUBAN CAFÉ 11316 Maple Br ook Rd., 326-3544. This East End spot is primarily a Cuban-accented coffee shop, but you can also get a fine Cuban sandwich, pastries and empanadas. There’s also a small specialty gr ocery with Cuban and Brazilian goods. $ ✿ CUBA LIBRE 702 Highlander Point, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-2822. The hills above New Albany may seem an unexpected place for a Cuban r estaurant, but owner and chef Ber tha Brandon — a r ecent arrival with her husband from Miami — is cooking up tasty and authentic Cuban cuisine in r enovated space that formerly housed a Tumbleweed. $$ p f e ✿ HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli A ve., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting Cuban restaurant is sibling to the equally popular Mojito T apas Restaurant. Bountiful ser vings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key W est or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar , have earned Havana Rumba a place on my shor t list of local favorites. $ p f ✿ TASTE OF JAMAICA 2017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner W arren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine to a city too long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $ h ✿

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600. Now moved fr om the hear t of St. Matthews to Dupont Cir cle, Bazo’s Fresh Mexican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot for fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican far e. $ f ✿

THE F ALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bar dstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to of fer quick and af fordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter enter tainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern far e in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ f h ✿ GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Yet another Middle Eastern eatery, yet another good inexpensive source of food on Frankfort Avenue. $ f ✿ OCEANSIDE RESTAURANT 3707 Klondike Ln., 4543737. This Hikes Point spot, run by a friendly Moroccan couple, offers a variety of fish and seafood dishes (plus chicken wings and other munchies), with a Middle Eastern accent. A couple of Moroccan dinner items are available in the $10 range. $ OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $ ✿ PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eater y in the Highlands of fers a splendid mix of gyr os, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿ PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. The latest incarnation of the former Pita Pantry and Aladdin’s Café is the Pita Hut brings back its MediterraneanMiddle Eastern favorites, with the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fr esh pita, of course. $ ✿ ROAD TO MOROCCO 308 W. Chestnut St., 3765855. You can browse Moroccan arts and crafts and pick up a bottle of Moroccan wine at this little shop in the r enovated Henr y Clay building downtown, and stay for a light lunch that featur es Moroccan dishes and a br oader range of Middle Eastern far e. $fe✿ SAFFRON’S 131 W . Market St., 584-7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has elevated this Persian (Iranian) restaurant far beyond a mer e ethnic eater y. Stylish

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BUENOS DIAS CAFÉ 3065 Br eckenridge Ln.,2822233. $ ✿ CANCUN MEXICAN GRILL 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e ✿ DON PABLOS MEXICAN KITCHEN 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, of fers full bar ser vice and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Gr eentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿ EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hwy., 969-8243, 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Highway 131, Clarksville, IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s gr owing Mexican-American community has foster ed a happy tr end: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿

quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican far e and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA HERRADURA 615 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN., 280-8650. Is it possible to enjoy truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and you speak only English? These friendly folks make it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling staff make you feel at home.$ ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. You may want to bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, wher e English is sometimes tentative. It’ s wor th the ef fort though, for excellent authentic Mexican seafood and fish dishes that go well beyond taqueria status. $$ ✿

EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfor t A ve., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican r egional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the tr endy flair of Rick Bayless’ s Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the far e mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿

MEXICANO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962-8526. Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ ✿ MEXICO TIPICO REST AURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy ., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 253-9828. One of the r egion’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico T ipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it r eaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ PUERTO V ALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quar termaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p ✿

EL REY MEXICAN REST AURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’ s mor e Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns my recommendation for tasty far e, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food envir onment, and affordable prices. $ f ✿

QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bar dstown Rd., 454-3380, 970 Breckinridge Ln., 721-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Drive, 429-5151, 100 Daventr y Ln., 412-6202, 2730 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy ., 4939606, 3021 Poplar Level Rd., 637-5405, 4302 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 941-9654, 1321 Herr Ln., 618-3622. This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfor t and Lexington. Fastfoodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and inter esting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can af ford. $ f ✿

EL RODEO MEXICAN REST AURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL T ARASCO 6100 Cr estwood Station, 241-2320, 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fair fax A ve., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and of fering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that r each out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Bor der culinary adventure without compromise. $ ✿

FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144. $ p ✿ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eater y that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both 80 Summer 2008 www.foodanddine.com

LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 297-8003, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community . With fresh bar and blender of ferings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p ✿

MEXICAN FIEST A 5414 Bar dstown Rd., 762-0840, 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ ✿

EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249, 2319 Br ownsboro Rd., 893-9880. This modest little eater y used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family fr om Mexico, it’ s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿

ERNESTO’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 893-9297, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the mor e authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s r emains consistently r eliable. F rom the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e ✿

LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e into a r eal bargain. $ f ✿

MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán earned four-star praise for years with his creative take on Mayan (Yucatan/Guatemala) cuisine at Mayan Gypsy. He carries on this winning tradition with similar inspiring cuisine here. $$ ✿

EL NOP AL (10 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a gr owing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican far e in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿

EL TORO MEXICAN REST AURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metr o, El Toro earns my r ecommendation for food, ser vice and environment. TexMex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿

Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gor dita wagon that r olls up in the Eastland Shopping Center every Friday thr ough Monday evening. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Or tiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ f ✿

LA PERLA DEL PACIFICO 4906 Preston Hwy., 9694445. Although it shar es a name — and an authentic Mexican bill of far e with plenty of seafood and fish — with an East End r estaurant, this South End spot is under separate ownership. $ ✿ LA ROSIT A T AQUERIA 1515 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620, 113 Grant Line Road, 9487967, 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN, 284-1362. One of my favorite authentic Mexican eateries in the metr o. The Market Str eet location, an historic old storefront, offers an extended menu of authentic Mexican far e; the Grant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria far e. $ f ✿ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and mor e. $ p ✿ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’ s now possible to enjoy an authentic RED = ADVERTISER

ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and r oasted golden br own. Chicken simply doesn’ t get any better than this. $ ✿ RUBEN’S MEXICAN REST AURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eater y in a centur y-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿ SENOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555. One Mexican chain r estaurant, Habanero’s, moves out another moves in to the space that old-timers still know as Jerry’ s; and all’s well for those who love Mexican food in a casual sports-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿ SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bar dstown Road, 459-7776. Saul Gar cia, who’s been associated with the local chain of Los Aztecas eateries and the shor t-lived Olmeca’s, brings his brand of authentic Mexican

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fare to this Douglass Loop location. Fans of Los Aztecas will find familiar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p h ✿ TACO BUENO 2909 Hwy. 62 Jef fersonville IN, 2844073. This growing Texas-based chain, a competitor to Taco Bell, makes its first entry in the Louisville metro. Early r eports declar e it “better than the Bell.” $ f ✿ TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as T aco Bell was born in Southern California, The T aco Tico chain has been gone fr om Louisville for mor e than a decade. Its happy r eturn has been drawing remarkable crowds out to this Southwest Louisville location. Us, too. $ ✿ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Pr eston Hwy ., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuf f, but Anglos ar e thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿ TEQUILA MEXICAN RESTAURANT 7803 Old Third Street Rd., 368-3591. $ ✿

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 8936637, 12001 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6250, 1020 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center W ay, 614-7722. The food may be mor e fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made fr om quality ingr edients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿ ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer Park Dr ., 4122461. A contemporary spin on traditional favorites offers a range of delights fr om the Ultimate Fajita to margaritas in a setting that emulates Old Mexico décor. $$ p f ✿ SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that featur es gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in r estaurant and an inviting bar . $

pf✿ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (17 locations). Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern far e adds steaks and grilled far e to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in dr oves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿

A.J.’S COFFEE & CREAM 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715. Despite the name, the specialty at this Southern Indiana r oadside spot is excellent, authentic Gr eek gyr os. Ther e’s no indoor dining, but plenty of picnic tables out fr ont; or you can do carryout. Another happy surprise: home made potato chips! $ f ✿ BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Str eet intr oduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espr esso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eater y, but a cultural hangout. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $

f✿ COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $ COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f ✿

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DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy , with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’ s has ever ything you would expect in a college-neighbor hood cof fee shop except a college near by. $ f DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. A highlight in Louisville’ s r oster of serious coffee shops, Derby City featur es quality cof fee from several ar tisanal r oasters, plus fine tea, pastries, and now craft beers including a cof feebourbon flavored Stout. $ f e ✿ EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e ✿ HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfor t A ve., 899-5551, 1295 Longest A ve., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bar dstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 894-9413. Spar tan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee r oasted on the premises and a shor t list of pastries, desser ts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Of fering two ways to get wir ed, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, wher e you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you sur f the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458. HobKnobb of fers fresh hot cof fee, espr esso drinks and fr esh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMP ANY 9561B U.S. Hwy . 42, 292-2710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Four th Street Live, 561-2041, 2309 Frankfor t A ve., 894-8060. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly oldfashioned book shop, with comfor table seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality cof fee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Br eckenridge Ln. (Books-aMillion), 894-8606, 4300 T owne Center Dr ., 4262252. $ f ✿ LA VIDA JA VA COFFEE CO. 1301 Herr Ln., 4129393. La V ida Java of fers espr esso drinks and pastries in this welcoming spot in the W estport Village shopping center. $ f OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jef fersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e RAY’S MONKEY HOUSE 1578 Bardstown Rd., 2124338. A ver y nice fit with its crunchy-granola Highlands neighborhood, this “pr ogressive cof fee shop and gathering place” is consciously childfriendly. Look for quality organic coffee roasted on the premises and vegetarian/vegan snacks. $ f e ✿ RIVER CITY COFFEE CAFÉ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 618-2308. Don’t let the wor d “coffee” in the name fool you: This Cr escent Hill spot isn’ t just a cof fee shop. You can enjoy breakfast and lunch, including a good array of soups, salads, sandwiches and burgers. $ f ✿ SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f

✿ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTER Y 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to r oast their own cof fee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pr o — the r esult is Suner gos Cof fee, another in the gr owing cadr e of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ ✿

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKER Y CAFÉ 129 W. Cour t Ave., Jef fersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’ t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine baker y but a place wher e bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is par t of the culinar y program at Sullivan University . It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿ BREADWORKS 3628 Br ownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿ CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This tiny, take-out-only spot is building a tr emendous buzz. A lar ge selection of baked goods ar e made with organic flour and sugar . W e walked in, took a sample of brownie so spectacular that it made our knees buckle, and departed with a 10-pound bag of goodies. Cake Flour is to pastry as Louisville’s Blue Dog is to artisan bread: Top tier. $ f ✿ COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bar dstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, ar tisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the pr emises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of cof fee. $ f DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bar dstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy . 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville ar ea since your gr eat-aunt was a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries pr ovide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muf fins are made right in the stor e, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ THE PIE P ANTRY 9208 Dixie Hwy ., 384-0743. Lunch is served at this Southwest Louisville eatery but the main focus — and the str ongest reason to drive out that way — is the dozens of varieties of homemade pies. Por tions ar e lar ge and the selection extensive. $ f ✿ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this baker y is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cr eam while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿ SMALL TIMES BAKER Y 2956 Richland A ve., 4515499. An appetizing selection of br eads, cakes, cookies, even bagels is attracting hungr y supplicants fr om ar ound the r egion to this new bakery in Hikes Point. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfor t A ve., 8954554. You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot. $ ✿

TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545 $

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MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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MAP INDEX

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

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MAP • 2

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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

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EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

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MAP • 4

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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

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MAP • 6

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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MAP

7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

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MAP

11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

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SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

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MAP • 13

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SOUTH WEST > SHIVELY/PLEASURE RIDGE PARK

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

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15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

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16 > INDIANA > JEFFERSONVILLE

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hungry? like the wolf?

louisville

424 south 4th street 502-568-2202 â&#x20AC;˘ hardrock.com the official food of rock


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Summer 2008 (Vol. 21)