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SPRING 2011 | FEB - MAR - APR

fourth street a dining district’s rebirth

PLUS 900

restaurant listings with reviews & maps

party planner

wine & cheese party|home bar setup $ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

www.foodanddine.com

Chef Bobby Benjamin’s (The Oakroom) diver scallops with a trio of local and imported caviar.

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SPRING 2011 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR DANA MCMAHAN BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN SCOTT HARPER DAVID LANGE ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS J. CHRISTIAN WALSH CONTRIBUTING CHEFS ALLEN AKMON DAVID DODD CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING PAUL M. SMITH IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE

Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.

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Annual Subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 509-EATS (3287) or subscribe online at

www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call (502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: Chef Bobby Benjamin’s (The Oakroom) diver scallops with a trio of local and imported caviar. (see story page 30) Photo by Dan Dry 4

Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

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contents

SPRING 2011 - VOLUME 31

30

RESTAURANT GUIDE

52

DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of more than 900 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)

82

Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.

48 20

FEATURE FOURTH STREET — From the river to Broadway

30

This district is brimming with top-notch restaurants. Discover the history behind this restaurant row.

PROFILES LOUISVILLE’S IRON CHEF — Edward Lee

20

It’s never “just the usual” with 610 Magnolia’s rising star.

COLUMNS

24

STARTERS

8

COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.

SIDE DISHES

14

Noteworthy restaurant and culinary news and happenings.

QUEST TO COOK: Pad Thai

12 14

New editor Dana McMahan traveled halfway around the world to learn how to make Pad Thai — now she shows you how.

LIQUIDS SPIRITS: The home bar Prepare your home bar to meet any occasion.

COFFEE: Putting coffee in its (new) place

42

24 28

Move over wine and cocktails, coffee is taking pride of place at the fine dining table.

RECIPES EASY ENTERTAINING: Wine and cheese party

42

Must-have guide to pairing wine and cheese for a tasting party at home.

COOKING CLASS: Bursting with flavor

48

We celebrate an abundance of vegetables in four recipes from Sullivan University chef instructors.

www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2011

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N A T U R A L B L A C K R A S P B E R R Y, MEET FRENCH VODKA.

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starters comings & goings

comings

& goings

It’s been a cold, dreary winter this year. Temperatures have hovered in the 20s, not bitter cold, but bleak, with nasty stretches. And the economic climate, too, is stalled in the chilly, grey doldrums. This outer weather has put a comparative chill on the life of Louisville’s restaurant world. In recent past quarters, restaurant openings have briskly out-paced closings, for a healthy net gain, but in the most recent quarter plus and minus columns are more balanced. Twenty-eight new restaurants have opened since October. In the same time, 29 restaurants have closed, and four with more than one branch have shut down one outlet while maintaining the remainder. The latter numbers are a bit misleading, for several establishments have been closed for more than three months, but their closings were so muted that we are just now getting word of their demise. It has been a winter of consolidation, perhaps, but still some noteworthy new restaurants have ventured onto the scene.

OPENINGS Perhaps the most eagerly awaited is Eddie Merlot’s Prime Aged Beef and Seafood, at 455 S. Fourth Street. Downtown denizens have been watching the transformation of the ground floor corner of the Starks Building since late last summer. Several million dollars have been invested in the makeover of the old Rodes clothing store space, and it shows in the luxe exuberance of the glittering wall mosaics, the long, elegant bar, the art glass sconces and chandeliers, the leather armchairs, the extensive glasswalled wine cave. Eddie Merlot’s is ready to make a statement. Several other restaurant debuts have sparked considerable interest, though in a less flashy way. The entrepreneurial couple Tyler Trotter and Lori Beck opened the Louisville Beer Store a year or so ago on Market St., and have now opened The Holy Grale at a deconsecrated and repurposed church at 1034 Bardstown Rd. in the Highlands. The combination of a large selection of exotic beers on tap and interesting, reasonably priced food has garnered fans quickly. Another small, local restaurant is off to a strong star t, Hammerhead’s, at 621 Swan St., the location most recently of the vegetarian Swan Dive. The funky stuffed shark over the entrance, the industrial-strength smoker out front, the odd but welcoming semi-underground space have all drawn appreciative customers. Two recently-vacated spaces in the Highlands quickly found new owners. Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion did not let Café Metro’s space at 1700 Bardstown Rd. linger long unoccupied. The combination of sushi bar up front and Asian fusion restaurant further back is off to a strong start. The old VT’s Bubble Cup space at 1043 Bardstown Rd. is now Funmi’s Café, serving modern Nigerian food. In the St. Matthews area Coals Artisan Pizza will be firing up a coal-fueled high-intensity pizza oven in the Vogue Center, 3724 Lexington Rd. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, Red Hog Tapas serves up small plates, wine and cocktails at 2868 Frankfort Ave., which is Blue Dog Bakery during the day. Across the river, The NA Exchange, 8306 Plaza Dr., strives for the ambience and camaraderie of an English pub. Dave Clancy, veteran of the downtown New Albany restaurant renaissance is 8

Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

now in the kitchen of the new gastropub. Also in New Albany, the New Albany Fish House is now frying where the Cape Codder once was, at 2604 Charlestown Rd., and Cluckers is serving chicken at 4308 Charlestown Rd. Another area restaurant veteran, Harold Baker, will be in the kitchen at Gary’s on Spring, 204 Spring St., working in the contemporary casual upscale dining mode that he developed at Westport General Store. In Portland, Ali Ali is serving grilled chicken and other comfort foods at Papa’s Grilled Chicken, 2622 Portland Ave. Ooh La La Bakery at 1841 Plantside Dr. is specializing in nutfree and gluten-free bakery items, and can work with and around other food allergies. Carmen’s Cupcakes is baking with all-natural ingredients at 10616 Meeting St. in Norton Commons. Staxx Roadhouse and BBQ is smoking at 9601 Shelbyville Rd., and Edesia Gardens is catering and serving brunches at 10212 Taylorsville Rd. Tazza Mia, a Cincinnati-area coffeehouse franchise, is now pouring at the Ramada Plaza, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. Downtown has two new lunch spots. The basement breakfast and lunch space in the basement of the Kentucky Home Life Building, 239 S. Fifth St. that once housed Café on Fifth is now Down to Lunch Grille. And the owners of Le Gallo Rosso have opened Zivio, a soup and sandwich focused lunch place at 711 S. Third St. Eight existing restaurants have opened additional venues, and two of them are doing it twice. Heine Brothers has added two coffee shops, at 1301 Herr Lane (in Westport Village) and at 3060 Bardstown Rd. After a period of consolidation and refocusing, J. Gumbo’s is opening two new Cajun quick-service shops, at 3017 Poplar Level Rd. and at 922 Hwy. 42. Riverbend Winery has added a tasting room and restaurant in Middletown at 12003 Shelbyville Rd., and the ubiquitous Jimmy Johns sandwich/deli is getting more so with the opening of another shop at 12903 Shelbyville Rd. Panera Bread is baking at 1801 Rudy Lane, and Wick’s has added another pizzeria at the Ramada Plaza, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. Indi’s hot wings can now be found at 2970 10th St., Jeffersonville and Java Brewing Company continues to expand with the addition at 4901 Bardstown Rd.

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CLOSINGS Although we have to note for the record the demise of almost 30 restaurants around the area, none of those that have closed are from the top rank. Perhaps the most notable, though, alas, not the most surprising, closing was that of The White Oak, 620 E. Market Street. Artemesia morphed into The White Oak at Artemesia Gallery, but the new incarnation never found a consistent footing, and suddenly was no more. One long-timer bit the dust in recent months. Tubby’s Pizza, 104 Quartermaster Circle in Jeffersonville, Ind. The local landmark eatery, feeling its age, faded away. In downtown Louisville, Blue Mountain Coffeehouse & Wine Bar, an attractive space with an ambitious concept in a potentially hot location at 400 E. Main St., across from Slugger Field, suffered from the stalled promise of downtown development. Third Street Coffee House, 711 S. Third St. also closed, as did Café on Fifth, 239 S. Fifth St. In Crescent Hill, the wiener and ice cream shop Conez and Coneyz ceased operation but the space at 2716 Frankfort Ave., was quickly taken over by the expansion of

10 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

Maria Bell’s It’s All Greek to Me. In the Highlands, the walkup takeaway spot Derby City Dogs ceased at 960 Baxter Ave. Down the road a piece, at 1043 Bardstown Rd., VT’s Bubble Cup fizzled out, but Funmi’s Café opened in that space. Out of town a ways, Eva Mae’s Creekside, 6325 River Rd., found the competition at the corner of River Rd. and Wolfpen Branch too much, and folded. Indigo Joe’s, 1321 Herr Ln. has closed, as has Tony Impellizeri’s Italian Restaurant at 108 Vieuz Carre Dr. The Dessert Gallery at 9305 New LaGrange Rd. has folded, Bulldog Café at 10619 W. Manslick Rd. is no more, Big Ben Café, 10600 Meeting St. in Nor ton Commons, closed, and so did Adriann’s Around the World Café, 14041 Shelbyville Rd. in Middletown, and Dueling Grounds Café at 604 E. Spring Street in New Albany. Two styles of food service have taken a big hit in the last few months. Five homestyle/Southern food eateries have closed, and nine ethnic restaurants have folded. The former group, home-style restaurants, include Fork in the Road Family Restaurant at 4951 Cane Run Rd., Jessie’s Family Restaurant at 9609 Dixie Hwy., King’s Fast

Food at 2101W. Broadway, Louisville Grille, the latest effort at 612 S. Fifth St., and Mama’s Table, 5019 Poplar Level Rd. Ethnic restaurants that have closed include three places serving Mexican food — Cancun Mexican Grill, 9904 Linn Station Rd.; Mexicano, 6911 Sheperdsville Rd; and Taco Bueno, 2350 Shane Dr. — and two Cuban/Caribbean places — Cuba Libre, 1725 E. 10th St., Jeffersonville, Ind. and Nile Restaurant and Lounge, 5312 S. Third St. Four Middle Eastern food purveyors have ceased serving: Dejlah Bistro, 4123 Oechsli Ave. (which suffered a fire); Little Jerusalem, 3825 Taylor Blvd.; Oceanside Restaurant, 3707 Klondike Ln.; and Omar’s Fast Food Restaurant, a funky little place in a funkier neighborhood at 1272 S. Preston St. Finally, four multi-branch local restaurants have closed one outlet while retaining others. Bearno’s Pizza at 7895 Dixie Hwy. closed, Lonnie’s Best Taste of Chicago closed its store at 1034 Bardstown Rd. (and was quickly snapped up and reincarnated as The Holy Grale). Snappy Tomato pizza purveyors are purveying no more from 13206 W. Hwy. 42 and Wick’s Pizza closed its store at 10966 Dixie Hwy. F&D

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starters side dishes

side Meet the new Editor And other F&D news I’m Dana McMahan, a food writer with a keen appetite for the treasures in our local food scene, and I’m delighted to introduce myself to you as Food & Dining’s new editor. Together we’ll discover the most delectable dishes, the most intriguing chefs, and the hottest restaurants in our city and beyond. Having feasted my way around the globe, Louisville and its culinary scene continues to inspire, enthrall and surprise me. In these pages I will uphold the magazine’s tradition of bringing you the tastiest stories, and beyond the pages I hope to connect with you online.There’s something delicious happening every day in our town, and between quarterly issues, we will keep our finger on Louisville’s foodie pulse. Like us at facebook.com/FoodandDine and follow us at twitter.com/fdzine. You’ll find daily updates on Louisville’s restaurant scene, like notices of specials, menu changes and happy hours; links to recipes and interesting articles for food-lovers; and comments from yours truly as I explore food and dining at home and out. If you love to dine out or are learning how to make the most of your own kitchen, let us hear from you — we want to know about your discoveries and share them with the rest of our community. And if you run a restaurant, be sure to email us at info@foodanddine.com or post your announcements on our Facebook page so we can get the word out about the latest and greatest new thing you have going on. Free Subscriptions, sort of … Back by popular demand — now when you subscribe to F&D for a year at $18, you get an $18 gift certificate to a popular local restaurant. An even better deal — subscribe for two years at $26 and receive $36 in restaurant gift certificates. You can subscribe online at foodanddine.com or call (502) 509-EATS (3287).

Moves and Changes Dallas McGarity has hopped, skipped and jumped across town, landing at Theater Square Marketplace as executive chef and partner. He left Z’s Fusion to go to Avalon for a minute before settling in at Equus and Jack’s Lounge for the summer and fall. But when Theater Square came knocking he couldn’t turn down the chance to put his touch on the restaurant, and has since drawn rave reviews. Just a few blocks from Dallas, Michael Hargrove and Bret Donaldson have joined forces at Dish on Market, opened last summer in the space formerly known as Delta. The duo came on board in December, Michael by way of L&N Wine Bar and Bistro, Bret from a country club and catering background — and the distinction of being president of the Kentucky Chapter of the American Culinary Federation. So who’s in the kitchen at L&N? After nearly 10 years at Z’s 12 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

dishes Oyster bar & Steak House, four of those as executive chef, Allen Grimm made a career change to head up the kitchen for L&N. Meanwhile, across the river Dave Clancy brings his 30+ years of restaurant experience to New Albany’s newest gastropub, the NA Exchange (formerly My Bar). He signed on to transition the bar into a place where folks could have a spot of food with their drinks. Clancy has logged time with a number of local restaurants, including Lilly’s, Carly Rae’s, and the Speakeasy (just in time for its closing).

Awards The Comfy Cow, which just keeps people coming back to queue up in jostling lines for their creations, brought home three awards from the National Ice Cream Retailers Association convention: they took two awards of excellence, one each for their signature chocolate and vanilla ice creams, and while they were at it picked up second place in the best holiday flavor category for their Bourbon ball ice cream. The Monterey Bay Aquarium calls Seviche’s Anthony Lamas a sustainable seafood champion. They are bringing their champ back to his native California where he’ll be featured at the 10th annual Cooking for Solutions sustainable food and wine celebration at the aquarium in Monterey, California, in May. Chef Nancy Russman, director of the Culinary Arts Department at Jefferson Community and Technical College, just wants to help kids eat healthy food — and show them how to make it. For her dedication and passion, the author of Chef Nancy’s Kids’ Club Cookbook received the True Spirit Award from the American Culinary Federation.

Other News If you live within a three-mile radius of 949 Baxter Ave. you can get your Papalinos fix without leaving home. The wildly popular pizzeria took a hiatus from delivery soon after opening while they dealt with the logistics of feeding their fans, but are back in the business of bringing their New York style pies to your door. A buck delivery fee can keep you from spinning your wheels in lunch traffic. Get a gyro or a loaded philly cheese steak from Chicago Gyros delivered if you’re in St. Matthews, Crescent Hill, Clifton, the Highlands, the Swift Plant, or downtown hospitals. Bourbon Barrel Foods has been making bigger and bigger waves in the foodie world. Beginning in March several of Matt Jamie’s artisanal products will be carried at Williams-Sonoma stores, giving the rest of the country a delicious taste of the bluegrass. An all-star cast of chefs will join forces on a sure-to-be spectacular meal to raise money for the Kenneth Black Memorial Scholarship Fund. Hosted by Napa River Grill February 25 and 26, the dinner features dishes from Anthony Lamas, Seviche; Kathy Cary, Lilly’s Bistro; John Castro, Winston’s at Sullivan University; John Varanese, Varanese; John Plymale, Porcini; and Michelle Childers, Napa River Grill, with David Malthaner, executive chef of Napa River Grill, overseeing the meal. F&D

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quest to cook pad thai

BY DANA MCMAHAN | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Quest to Cook - Pad Thai Preparing to make Pad Thai feels a bit like a fast-paced, high-intensity sport (Derby maybe?). I’m standing at my kitchen counter, checking and double checking my mise, making sure all bowls of ingredients are there and in the proper places. Once I start the dish, there’s no room for scrambling about for the sprouts or the tamarind puree. It’s my first time making real Pad Thai (as opposed to the oh-so-convenient version with the jar of pre-made sauce from Oriental Supermarket) on my own. Just back from Thailand, I’d learned how to make Pad Thai in a hands-on lesson during a day-long cooking class in Chiang Mai. On that day — the kind that you dream about when you’re planning a trip — I’d made my Pad Thai for breakfast and fell upon it with an almost embarrassing voracity. It was, hands down, the best Pad Thai I’d ever had. All the better because yours truly had prepared it under the expert tutelage of instructor Yui Sriyabhaya in her open-air kitchen.

14 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

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I had selected Yui’s class out of the handful available because it included the maybe cliched, but my favorite nonetheless, classic fried noodle dish (‘pad’ means that it’s fried). The common thread of all of my travels is exploring the culture through food. I’ve learned to make fresh pasta and panna cotta in Florence, tagines and couscous in Marrakech, and duck confit and foie gras in Gascony, France. I wanted to leave Thailand able to cook a mean curry and throw together a faultless Pad Thai. So as the cool of the night melted into the sultry heat of the morning in the northern Thailand city of Chiang Mai, my husband Brian and I piled into an ancient VW bus crammed with other travelers on a quest to cook Thai food. Yui, folded in the back storage area of the bus with her doll of a four-year-old daughter, regaled us with tales of learning to cook as a child. We bumped along narrow streets past rumbling tuktuks and strolling saffron-robed monks, until we reached Yui’s house and outdoor kitchen/classroom. Festooned with colorful paper lanterns and protected from the sun with bamboo shades and lush greenery, it was the most cheerful kitchen I’d ever seen. The eight students donned aprons and gathered around Yui and her assistant at her wok station. Yui showed us the fixings for Pad Thai and described the “secret ingredient” — tamarind. Without tamarind, it’s just stir-fried noodles, she explained. A fruit that looks a little like a curved, overgrown peanut, sweet tamarind can be eaten just like any fruit. The sour version of tamarind is used for seasoning, and in this case, to make a puree for Pad Thai. It’s the je ne sais quoi, that addictive and elusive element that sends all thoughts of moderation flying as I plow through a heaping bowl. Fish sauce is another critical component. Made by fermenting small fish with salt for about a year, it’s then mixed with sugar and water for a smoother taste. Packing a powerfully salty punch, a little goes a long way. “Be careful,” Yui admonished several times that day when we added fish sauce to a dish. Palm sugar completed a trio of special ingredients. A light brown sugar made from coconut palm sap, it not only imparts a lovely flavor, but helps thicken the sauce. We leaned in as Yui demonstrated how to prepare Pad Thai. My stomach rumbling (she’d advised us to eat a very light breakfast), I watched, fascinated, as she fired up the wok. First in was small sticks of tofu, chopped shallot and garlic, minced chicken, dried shrimp and chopped sweet turnip. Only a minute frying in the oil and it was time for the noodles. Here in Thailand fresh rice noodles are available so there was no need to pre-soak them. I was intrigued to see she added the noodles to the wok first, then the water. After swirling the noodles until they looked, as Yui liked to say, like “ribbons,”Yui added the fish sauce, soy sauce, tamarind puree and palm sugar and cooked the mixture just another minute. Bean sprouts and Chinese chives went in next, followed by the egg. Yui pushed the rest of the ingredients to one side of the wok and drizzled some vegetable oil in the open side. She dropped two eggs in, let the white set and the yolk just begin to set before she quickly stirred them into the rest of the dish. That was it! Almost. With the heat off now, Yui added ground roast peanuts, chili powder, lime juice, more sprouts, and chives, and dished it out for us to taste. A few snapshots Dana took at Yui Sriyabhaya’s cooking school in Chiang Mai, Thailand

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quest to cook pad thai

BY DANA MCMAHAN | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Heaven. Steaming hot, the perfect combination of sweet, salty, creamy and hot, that dish in that instant could have topped my last-meal-on-earth list. Now that we knew what it should taste like she turned us loose at our woks, where our stations were already set with all of the ingredients. (If only cooking was like that at home!) With a little apprehension — you have to work quickly at a wok — but more glee, I set about making my very own Pad Thai. Following Yui’s advice, as I chopped my ingredients I arranged them in my plate clockwise in the order I would need them. And then, with no fanfare, just lots of wok shaking, I made my Pad Thai. Grinning at my husband as he finished his, I dished it up and joined the other students at the dining table. “Taste it first,” said Yui, “and add what it needs.” Condiments were on the table — chili powder, sugar and limes. Properly seasoned, my Pad Thai was seriously the breakfast of champions. Even knowing five more dishes were to come I tossed aside concern for saving room, and dug in, chopsticks twirling madly as I devoured every last morsel. Our plane had barely touched down back in Louisville before I succumbed to my itch to try my hand at Pad Thai here. Jet-lagged excursions to Value Market in Mid-City Mall for tamarind and Oriental Supermarket on Gilmore Lane for palm sugar, fish sauce

16 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

and rice noodles left me even more in the mood. I made some modifications to the dish we’d made in Thailand — leaving out the dried shrimp mainly because I don’t think they add to my enjoyment of the dish, and the sweet turnip because I didn’t scour the city for it. I used green onions in place of the exorbitantly costly Chinese chives, and of course had to use dried rice noodles. Ingredients neatly assembled on the kitchen counter, I enlisted my husband to help, relying on his memories of the day to supplement my own. It was really rather a lot of ingredients. I’d never thought about the complexity of the dish when I’d eaten Pad Thai in restaurants. Cooking all day in Thailand had taught me though, that a variety of flavors subtle and bold contribute to the magic that is Thai food. We started with the tamarind puree. Lacking a handy teacher’s assistant to help, we muddled through figuring out how to make a puree. The tamarind was a hard, dried block. We dropped it in some near-boiling water and let it sit and soak for a while, then removed it and pressed through a fine sieve. And voila! We had a puree that looked remarkably like what we’d worked with in Thailand. Then we prepped the rest of our ingredients — I wanted to be as methodical as we’d been in our class. And it’s always fun to use the assortment of small dishes I tend to collect. Into my little

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www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2011 17

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bowls went each ingredient, measured and chopped, minced or sliced as needed, and I grouped them all according to when they’d be used. Again with a little apprehension — no instructor this time to stroll by with pointers — but more glee, I fired up the wok (ok, I plugged in my electric Wolfgang Puck wok) and got to work. To my delight it went much as it did in class. I read and re-read my recipe instructions out loud as I added each ingredient in its turn. And in just a few minutes I had my own Pad Thai. I seasoned it with the chili powder I’d brought home from a Chiang Mai market and the juice of some cute little limes like the ones we’d used there. And I very happily sat down at my own kitchen table and dove into a glorious, steaming tangle of noodles that, with the first bite, transported me back to Thailand. F&D

Pad Thai “Stir-fried noodles in Thai style” Adapted from A Lot of Thai Cookbook http://www.alotofthai.com (SERVES 2)

3 /4 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1/2 6 1

4 1 1

/2 2 2 1

tablespoons vegetable oil cup extra-firm tofu, cut into small sticks tablespoon shallot, chopped tablespoon garlic, chopped ounces chicken, finely chopped tablespoon fish sauce tablespoon soy sauce tablespoons tamarind puree tablespoons palm sugar ounces narrow dried rice noodles, soaked according to package directions and drained to 6 tablespoons water or chicken stock cup (about) bean sprouts, plus extra for serving cup (about) green onions, cut into 1-inch lengths eggs tablespoons ground, roasted peanuts lime, cut in wedges, or two key limes, halved

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in wok over medium heat. Fry tofu and shallot until light brown. Add garlic and chicken and cook, tossing and stirring, about a minute. Add noodles and immediately add 4 tablespoons water or stock. Cook until noodles are soft, stirring, adding more liquid if necessary. Add fish sauce, soy sauce, tamarind puree, and palm sugar and cook about a minute, stirring. Add bean sprouts and green onions and cook another minute, then push to one side. Add 1 tablespoon cooking oil to the other side and add eggs. When the whites are set and the yolks are nearly cooked, scramble the eggs, and mix with the noodles, distributing the egg pieces throughout the noodle mixture. Remove from heat and add peanuts. Serve with chili powder, lime wedges and bean sprouts.

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people and places profiles

BY J. CHRISTIAN WALSH | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Edward Lee — Louisville’s Iron Chef The 610 Magnolia chef talks cooking shows, pigs’ feet and shirking comfort food

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Chef Edward Lee claims he’s not being groomed for basic cable super stardom, but you can’t blame us for being a little suspicious. From his headquarters at the acclaimed 610 Magnolia in Old Louisville, Lee has steadily grown a national presence. He’s recently appeared in Gourmet and Southern Living magazines and on television shows like “Food(ography)” and “Iron Chef America.” In case you missed the latter, Lee was undaunted by Kitchen Stadium’s smoke and laser mystique as well as the night’s secret ingredients: tongue and cheek. Leaning on a childhood familiarity with these so-called “nasty bits,” (and a new appreciation for his pressure cooker) Lee represented Louisville well. With flourishes emblematic of both his Kentucky restaurant and native Brooklyn, Lee defeated Iron Chef Jose Garces, surpassing him in originality and presentation. But Lee takes the victory in stride. He says he downplays the appearance as much as he celebrates it and that his increased visibility has only one intended purpose: to bring attention to the food they’re plating at 610 Magnolia. “As much as I love ‘Iron Chef,’ let’s be honest, it’s a game show. Believe me, I love the publicity, but I never want to draw attention away from what we’re doing at 610. That’s the focus of my life.” So he may not be up for a Food Network slot just yet and maybe we won’t be seeing his name on a line of cookware anytime soon. But, it is easy to picture Lee — who has a literature degree from NYU and background in publishing — on a cookbook cover or two. And although he may not encourage the celebrity chef thing, we definitely saw glimpses of Lee’s “TV friendly” side when he invited Food & Dining to a live appearance at the news studios of WHAS-TV this past winter. While meteorologist Ben Pine pantomimed his white Christmas forecast to a blank greenscreen, Chef Lee silently set up, effectively producing and art directing his own segment. A mildly concerned studio technician leaned in to inquire about a portable stove that Lee was supposed to provide, only to learn that the chef had decided to switch things around. The tech shrugged and said OK, as if Lee had thrown him these types of curves in the past. Lee went back to sprucing up the holly twigs in a 610 Magnolia gift box complete with wine, truffles, tortes and handmade holiday brittle. If anyone was miffed about the chef ’s last minute 20 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

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audible, there was no way of telling once his brittle was passed around the station. Perfectly sweet and crunchy, the colorful planks projected holiday cheer with their crushed pistachios, candy cane bits, cranberry and — Lee’s new favorite thing (in December anyway) — Bourbon smoked brown sugar. As Lee saddled up next to anchorwoman Renee Murphy, it was hard not to be impressed with his savvy. As mentioned, the chef primarily views TV exposure as a way to bring people in the door at 610. His decision to present viewers with a snazzy, last minute gift suggestion, moments before going on air, emphasizes his knack for using media to the restaurant’s advantage. When the camera hit Lee, it seemed as though a switch had been flicked. Murphy asked how life had changed since winning Iron Chef. “Well, I get to see you more often,” the chef batted back. We put the same question to him earlier and his response was less flirty (with good reason: Murphy is lovely!). But, the meat of his answer was the same; success on TV has not changed the mission.

If it ain’t broke, you better fix it It seemed like time for Lee to return to that mission when we asked how the news station compared to Kitchen Stadium. The chef coolly implied that they were both just boxes with lights and cameras. Clearly, Lee’s preferred arena is his own kitchen and the business he’s been honing for seven years now. When he first took over the restaurant from Eddie Garber, 610’s originator, Lee’s footing wasn’t as certain as it is today. During his first six months, the chef took pains to put his own stamp on 610, while doing his best not to disrupt Garber’s vision. It was indeed his scariest period, one where he faced empty dining rooms and a staff that was beginning to wonder where they might be working next week. “As the captain of the ship, whether or not I was completely confident, I had to tell them and show them, don’t worry, this will happen.You just got to be patient. It’s hard to keep that confidence going, that motivation.” But Lee found his way out of the woods. He began to recognize returning faces as good press trickled in, the whole time staying true to a business model that eschews comfort food and fall-back menu staples. Lee prefers to challenge himself and his customers, and is aware that this formula may only appeal to — in his estimation — five to seven percent of the local population. But in that sliver of diners, Lee strives for loyal devotion. How exactly? Part of this is done by ensuring that 610 gets the best ingredients in town. To do this, Lee contracts with local farmers. This allows both sides to obtain what they need in a relationship that can sometimes be at odds. He explains that a 10pound zucchini turns a quicker profit for the farm, but actually puts a less impressive product on a diner’s plate. A two-ounce baby zucchini is not worth the farmer’s effort, but is exactly what the chef wants to work with. To remedy this conflict, Lee buys the bushel beforehand at an agreed-upon price, then gets some say in when the fruit is harvested. Attitude is another element that keeps diners coming back. A restaurateur that purposely avoids the signature dish concept is a rare and refreshing thing. “If it ain’t broke, ya got to fix it,” is how Lee described his rut-averse kitchen philosophy and weekly changing menu. An example of how this is put into practice was his decision

to remove red meat from the menu for an entire season. This selfimposed restriction eliminated the “I’ll just have the steak” default, forcing both the kitchen and diner to explore alternative proteins. Lee’s style may seem suited for the old New York neighborhoods he used to work in. But one of the ironies of 610 is that if it were in Manhattan, Lee wouldn’t be able to keep his doors open. He certainly wouldn’t have the freedom he does in Louisville. The New York restaurant economy requires quick and constant turnover, as well as menu fixtures meant to attract casual passersby — burgers and fries, for example. And, when an original dish does grow in popularity, its removal becomes a narrowing option. Lee would prefer not to be handcuffed in this way. “We know we’re in the service industry,” he says, “but we’re also not here to acquiesce.”

The trotters experiment It’s hard to talk to an envelope-pushing chef and not be inspired to stretch one’s own culinary boundaries. For many of us, a just like mom used to make plate of meatloaf and mashed potatoes soothes everyday anxieties, but when reflecting on a lifetime of eating, will it stand out against, say, the time you let a sushi chef talk you into going omakase, rewarding your trust with thrilling and bizarre selections like barracuda, sea urchin and kuchiko (swollen scallop liver)? So, what sort of proteins would we experiment with if red meat and chicken were off the table? In Lee’s pork-centric “Food(ography)” appearance, he prepared something called “pigs’ feet wasabi griddle cakes” and provided us with the recipe. Are we really going there? Yes, we are! For most of us, there’s a host of psychic blocks when handling trotters for the first time. In a remote way, the flesh and bone structure are eerily humanoid. And, one of Lee’s first instructions is to burn off whatever hairs might exist with a kitchen torch. (Ack!) If you do not own one of these, the website Soul Food and Southern Cooking (www.soulfoodandsoutherncooking.com) recommends a disposable razor. Beyond this strange bit of grooming, though, preparing pigs’ feet gets easier — nicer even, once the aroma of Lee’s braising fluid hits the air. When the pettitoes come out of the pot four hours later, there may still be some uncertainty — as in, what part, exactly, are we supposed to eat? Do you eat the skin? (Yes.) Do you eat the blubbery, pork-belly-like fat? (Yes.) Do you eat all that sticky stuff? (Collagen, and yes, eat that too.) It can seem weird at first, but, as Lee might say, by giving up certain comforts we gain unique and memorable dining experiences. The recipe easily serves four and makes for a great starter.

Pigs’ Feet Wasabi Griddle Cakes For the pigs’ feet: 3 pigs’ feet 1 gallon water 3 cloves garlic 1 knob ginger, sliced 3 bay leaves 1 teaspoon peppercorns 1 /2 cup soy sauce 1 lemon, sliced (continued) www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2011 21

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Soak pig’s feet in water for an hour. Drain pig’s feet from water and use a kitchen torch to remove the tiny hairs. Put into a pot with the rest of the ingredients, turn on heat to simmer. Braise four hours, until tender. Pull out finished pig’s feet from the braising liquid, transfer to a cutting board and separate meat from bones.

clarified butter into a skillet and fry coin-sized griddle cakes, about 45 seconds per side. Serve warm with a drizzle of sorghum.

For the griddle cakes: 1 cup whole-wheat flour 2 ears of corn, shucked 1 /2 cup cornmeal 1 /4 cup wasabi powder 1 /2 teaspoon baking soda 1 /4 teaspoon baking powder 1 /2 teaspoon salt 2 eggs 1 1/4 cups buttermilk 1 bunch chopped scallions Clarified butter for cooking

Braised Beef Cheeks

Put all the dry ingredients into a bowl. Whisk the eggs and buttermilk in a separate bowl, then combine the wet and dry ingredients to make a pancake-like batter. Fold the meat from the pig’s feet into the batter with chopped scallions. Drizzle

For your own taste of “Iron Chef ” victory, try Edward Lee’s recipe for braised beef cheeks, which he’s modified for the home chef. SERVES 4 AS AN APPETIZER

2 beef cheeks Medium coarse sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 2 cloves garlic, whole 1 medium onion, rough chopped 1 carrot, rough chopped 1 medium turnip, rough chopped 1 Yukon Gold potato, rough chopped 1 cup chicken broth 1 cup sweet cooking wine 1 /4 cup soy sauce 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar

1

/2 teaspoon chili flakes /2 teaspoon fennel seeds 3 whole cloves

1

Preheat oven to 345 degrees. Season beef cheeks with salt and pepper. Heat the grapeseed oil in a heavy ovenproof pot over high heat. Add the beef cheeks and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove cheeks from pot and blot on paper towels. Leave the fat and oil in the pot. Use this to lightly brown your vegetables, about 4 to 6 minutes. Add chicken broth, wine, soy sauce and vinegar.Then add the chili, fennel and cloves. Bring to a boil, then turn heat down to low. Return the cheeks to the pot and add water, if necessary, to just cover the contents in the pot. Bring to a simmer and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Transfer pot to pre-heated oven and let braise for about 21/2 -3 hours. When ready to serve, remove the cheeks from the pot, slice and serve with rice and lightly sautéed bitter greens like mustard greens or arugula. Ladle some of the braising liquid onto the cheeks. Serve hot. F&D

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Beef cheeks and venison with a butternut squash purĂŠe

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liquids spirits

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

That’s Entertaining

The Home Bar From the entertaining front, the home bar is the center of attention. For beginning entertainers, the bar is a place to build upon as you start to entertain more often. Don’t worry about getting everything all at once. Build your tools, spirits and glass collection a little at a time. I recommend you invest in the proper tools and buy the best. Quality tools will last you a lifetime and add to the elegance of your bar. For glassware, start with a nice Chardonnay glass. These glasses can multi-task as white, red and even sparkling glasses. The following is taken from our book, That’s Entertaining! with Tim Laird, America’s C.E.O. Available at ButlerBooks.com

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The bar is an important component to entertaining. There are a few must-have tools, spirits, mixers, condiments and glassware items that equip a home bar able to satisfy any guest. Start with the basics and build as you go. And always remember to be a responsible host and offer plenty of alcohol-free choices. SPIRITS CHECKLIST Vodka Rum Tequila Gin Tennessee whiskey Bourbon Brandy Triple Sec or orange liqueur Raspberry liqueur MIXER CHECKLIST Lemon juice (fresh) Lime juice (fresh) Sweetened lime juice Lemon-lime soda Cola Club soda Tonic water Orange juice Tomato juice Pineapple juice Grapefruit juice Cranberry juice ESSENTIAL CONDIMENT CHECKLIST Bitters (regular and orange) Grenadine syrup Vermouth (sweet and dry) Tabasco sauce Superfine sugar Cream (heavy and light) Simple syrup GARNISH CHECKLIST Cocktail olives Cocktail onions Limes Lemons Maraschino cherries Fresh mint Strawberries Pineapple GLASSWARE Three types will satisfy your needs for most cocktails. Look for glassware that is simple in shape, easy to handle and with a thin lip or rim. • Rocks or bucket glass • Collins or tall • Martini or cocktail 26 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

BAR TOOLS • Good insulated ice bucket that doesn’t sweat when filled with ice • Ice scoop or tongs • Cobbler shaker (three pieces: tin, top with strainer and cap) • Boston shaker (two pieces: mixing glass and tin) • Mixing glass • Wine key or opener • Measuring cups • Hawthorn and Julep strainers (Hawthorn holds back the ice and larger ingredients, the Julep will help with any pulp or other materials) • Microplane zester for zesting fruit • Sharp knife to cut fruit • Juicer • Channel knife for creating twists • Muddler COCKTAILS • Cocktails are the life of the party. A well-made drink highlights the spirit, while balancing other flavors. • The original cocktails were quite simple. In 1806, a newspaper article described them as a spirit of any kind, water, sugar and bitters. • Many of the originals, like the Manhattan and Daiquiri, have stood the test of time. • The Manhattan is whiskey, sweet vermouth and bitters. • The classic Daiquiri is rum, lime juice and simple syrup. • Today there are many recipes and new concoctions for cocktails with a vast array of flavors and ingredients. Bartenders are becoming bar chefs as they experiment with new ingredients, herbs and spices. I invite you to try new flavors and spirits at home as well. Here are a few tips on making and designing cocktails. COCKTAIL TIPS • Always measure each ingredient. • Always use fresh ingredients when possible. • Unless a recipe calls for crushed ice, always use large cubes of fresh, solid ice so your cocktail will not become overly diluted. • If a recipe calls for crushed ice, place the large cubes in a clean bar towel, wrap, and crush by hammering with a rolling pin. • Never reuse ice in a cocktail shaker. • Fill ice cube trays with bottled or filtered water to avoid “off” flavors. • When serving a drink over ice, always fill the glass with ice all the way to the top, then fill with the chilled cocktail from the shaker or glass. • Always fill your shaker two-thirds full of ice and shake for a good 25 seconds. Never shake carbonated beverages. • Don’t forget to garnish. F&D

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Saddle up and Ride! Prepare for Derby with the class of a thoroughbred. Open 7 Days a Week in Louisville’s Historic Highlands. Our knowledgeable staff will guide you through our extensive wine selection and more than 40 bourbon and whiskey distilleries or explore online at: www.KyBourbon.net

1529 Bardstown Road www.OldTownWine.com 502.451.8591

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liquids coffee

BY DAVID LANGE | PHOTOGRAPH BY DAN DRY

Putting Coffee in its(new)place

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Coffee and dining have enjoyed an extensive tenure as stalwarts in American culture. Whether it is the quick morning cup at the corner coffeehouse or coffee shop, the midday pick-up at the neighborhood diner or café, or the finale at the elegant 5-star white tablecloth establishment, coffee is the staple of a generation of “foodies.”

For years diners were treated to extensive wine lists and unique cocktail creations to supplement their dining experience. But now diners are discovering how coffee in recipes and in course pairings can fur ther the dining occasion. Yes, coffee is now an affordable luxury. And savvy coffee roasters, pur veyors, and suppliers help their restaurant clients realize the importance of specialty coffee. As restaurant patrons more commonly expect sustainable coffees and single origin coffee, restaurants are brushing up on changing trends and learning the skills to “walk the walk and talk the talk.” Coffee suppliers guide and educate restaurants on the value of specialty coffee and its revered presence in restaurant cuisine. Here’s an inside look at how we developed coffee programs for two restaurants. A customer developing a new breakfast concept called Wild Eggs approached me in need of an eye-opening coffee to accompany and complement their breakfast and lunch fare. Our education process began with inviting the restaurateurs, the executive chef, and the staff to our facility. After much cupping, blending and coffee education, we created a very complex blend to meet their needs. It consisted of Sumatran, Ethiopian, Kenyan, Brazilian, and Costa Rican coffees. To ensure the integrity of this blend, we also determined the brewing equipment needed to correctly brew and maintain the taste profile of this elixir. The coffee’s components are proudly displayed on Wild Eggs menus and customers are encouraged to imbibe this illustrious brew. We also wanted to display to their customers the 28 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

restaurant’s passion for this coffee, so the coffee is served in signature 32-ounce thermal carafes. It is each customer’s little taste of Nirvana. Before each new Wild Eggs location is opened, the entire staff comes to our facility where they see firsthand the coffee being roasted, blended, and packaged for them. They also attend a class that takes them from the bean to the cup. We also worked with Corbett’s — a grand dream realized by local restaurateur Dean Corbett. Chef Corbett wanted a blend that would complement his decadent desserts. So we duplicated the same procedure we followed with Wild Eggs. Because chocolate was often a common denominator in the desserts, we settled on a blend that was heavy on Indonesian components for the rich and heavy body that they display. And as espresso-based drinks play a major role in both restaurants’ coffee menu, we made sure that the staff spent time

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with our master baristas, learning to perfectly craft each drink, and under standing the proper vocabulary.

Coffee at center stage For years restaurants have teamed with wineries to showcase wines through wine dinners at their establishments. And lately local microbreweries have showcased their products with beer dinners at restaurants to display how food and beers can be paired together. Now coffee is taking pride of place. In Chicago last year, Chef Graham Elliot Bowles of the restaurant Graham Elliot offered a four-course coffee and espresso dinner that showcased java as not only a beverage pairing but also an ingredient. He featured it in espressopoached scallops, espresso-crusted beef, and a poached egg with red-eye gravy. In New Orleans, a series of dinners in September sponsored by a local PBS television affiliate offered diners the chance to sample a distributor’s coffee blends as paired with multi-course, prix fixe meals at 13 area restaurants. At an event in Louisville recently, coffee aficionados were introduced to alternative ways to enjoy coffee, sampling brews from a Turkish ibrik, an Italian moka pot, a Vietnamese coffee pot, and a French press. Encountering these methods from around the world allowed coffee lovers to realize that coffee truly is a universal beverage.

The

Perfect Location for Every Occasion

Anniversary or Birthday Dinners Sunday Brunch Wine Tastings Business Dinners

For reservations, call (502) 807-DINE (3463) 500 Fourth Street, Louisville, KY 40202

.TOL. 3:06:21 PM

The ritual When you are dining at your favorite restaurant, take the time to appreciate the care and time that the chef or restaurateur has taken to present that special blend. Ask about the origin, the roast, and the profile that you as the consumer can expect to enjoy as you conclude your dining experience. Appreciate the labor, love and time that were taken to develop this “nectar of the gods.” When you culminate a great meal with a unique cup of coffee, enjoy that glow of the dining experience that continues right out the door. This is to me the fundamental meaning of the coffee break, the coffee klatch, the happy hour, and the after-dinner coffee. These are secular rituals that, in unobtrusive but essential ways, help maintain humanness in our selves and with one another. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2011 29

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people and places profiles

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Historic Fourth Street from the river to Broadway

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Tracking south from Louisville’s historic roots along the Ohio River, Fourth Street bisects the downtown business district and hosts a lively dining scene. On it, or along its margins, are major and historic hotels, the convention center, the entertainment block of Fourth Street Live!, and the new, catalyzing restaurant scene around Theater Square. Fourth Street also intersects Market and Main Streets, which parallel the river, with a variety of attractions like Museum Row and Kentucky Center to the west, the Belvedere and Waterfront Park at the riverfront, and venues like Slugger Field and the new Yum! Arena to the east. Each day Fourth Street is part of life for, or is nearby, the 70,000 daily workers who commute to the city’s core, the 4,000 central district residents, the 11,000 nearby college students, and its 35,000 average daily visitors. It has not always been so. Louisville, like most American urban centers, has experienced an ebb and flow to its vitality and fortunes over its past 233 years.

Established as a military outpost and settlement by George Rogers Clark in 1778, Louisville soon grew as an important river port along the new nation’s western frontier. By the 1850s, while the city had grown southward to encompass Market and Jefferson Streets, Fourth Street was a pedestrian-oriented neighborhood dominated by dwellings, churches, new hospitals, and grocery stores. In the early 1900s, Fourth Street was still considered so remote that city leaders chided hoteliers Louis and Otto Seelbach that their plans for a grand hotel at the corner of Fourth and Walnut (now Muhammad Ali) were doomed to failure. The Seelbachs opened their venture in 1906 (to 25,000 firstday visitors) and proved to be the better visionaries. Within barely two decades, in 1923, J. Graham Brown opened his opulent, 16-story hotel at the corner of Fourth and Broadway. He soon added an office tower, which included the Brown Theatre and faced a lively urban scene. When the 17-story Heyburn office building opened across the street in 1928, the Louisville HeraldPost branded Fourth and Broadway as “the magic corner,” rivaling Main Street as the city’s center. In the next quarter-century, Fourth Street quickly filled with shops, large department stores, theaters, concert halls, homes, luncheonettes, and restaurants. Home to the city’s top hotels, best restaurants, most palatial movie theaters, and top-notch department stores, it became the place people would go for shopping, entertainment, and food. “In the 1950s, Fourth Street was the streetcar experience,” said Tom Owen, urban historian, Metro Council member, and University of Louisville archivist. “Coming downtown on a weekend for a visit to stores, a meal at the restaurants or a snack at the Orange Bar, and taking in a movie at the Kentucky, Ohio, Rialto, Lowes-United Artists, or The Strand, was a special experience.” 30 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

In the intervening 20 years, that experience unfortunately faded, as post-war prosperity and policies had people swarming to the suburbs. By the 1970s, downtown Louisville had fallen on hard times. Both the Seelbach and Brown hotels closed and multiple efforts at revitalization either put people off with their construction chaos or simply arrived too late to be a real diversion from new suburban malls. But today, on the heels of 20 years of civic investment, the city is rebuilding its allure, both to outsiders and locals. Waterfront Park (recently recognized as one of the top ten urban parks in the country), Slugger Field, and the new Yum! Arena bring an estimated four million people downtown each year. Festivals, performing and visual arts events, museums, and other attractions nearly double that figure. Hotel rooms filled with convention visitors and tourists are approaching nearly a million more visitors each year. Together, they provide the critical mass for a lively restaurant scene catering to the visitors, workers, and locals who make downtown part of their day. The multi-star, flagship dining venues in the Seelbach and Brown hotels, The Oakroom and English Grill, respectively, are vibrant and engaging. Top end dining at Z’s Fusion, Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge, Jeff Ruby’s and the recently opened Eddie Merlot’s, compete with the best any American city has to offer. And, despite a still flagging economy, local entrepreneurs and talented chefs at newer venues such as Theater Square Marketplace, Caviar, Sapporo, and Dish on Market are joining seasoned veterans like Cunningham’s and Bluegrass Brewing Company. They are all committed to making Fourth Street the “place to be.”

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Fennel-rubbed rack of elk from Z’s Fusion.

Mary Mosley, owner of the Galt House and its rooftop restaurant RIVUE.

Riverside (River Rd. to Main St.) Closest to the river are some of Louisville’s most elegant restaurants, each offering memorable dining experiences. A variety of places offer distinctive fare for people seeking a handy breakfast, lunch or early dinner before heading back to work, convention meetings, or sports or cultural events. (See the ‘Restaurant Square’ sidebar on page 41.) The original Galt House Hotel, which dates back to 1835, was located at Second and Main. Considered the best in the city, it hosted notables like Charles Dickens and Union Generals Ulysses S. Grant and William T. Sherman, who met there to plan Sherman’s famous “March to the Sea” and capture of Atlanta. It was there a young Louis Seelbach learned the hotel business before venturing out on his own. Today its 1973 incarnation, built by developer Al J. Schneider, located at the foot of Fourth Street is the only Louisville hotel on the river — a fact of which its flagship restaurant, RIVUE (140 N. Fourth St., 568-4239), takes full advantage. “We offer a view of the river which is unsurpassed in the city,” said Executive Chef Brian Riddle. “We serve what you could call Kentucky fare with an Italian influence, using a lot of local products and techniques. We want it to be an interesting, approachable cuisine.” While Riddle does present special events like a recent farmer’s dinner or food and wine pairings, the experience of the restaurant’s two revolving floors itself is considered a special occasion by many, as is a popular Sunday brunch. Just a half-block stroll south you’ll come to two lions marking the black awninged entrance to Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse (325 W. Main St., 584-0102), the seventh outpost of an eponymous Cincinnati restaurant group. Within you will find Louisville’s only on-premise, dry-aged prime beef. Look through a glass wall just inside the door to see the climate-controlled chamber where the beef is naturally tenderized over four to six weeks. But immediately, you also see Jeff Ruby’s is not your typical, 32 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

softly-lit, mahogany-paneled, prime steak sanctum, but an open, eclectic environment of stained glass and Art Deco steel projecting an urbane spirit. “We offer a unique, ‘high touch’ ambience with a lot of color and personality along with live entertainment,” said General Manager Jason Johnson, who came to Louisville four years ago to open the venue. “We have more of a club atmosphere. It’s a lively place. You can come in at happy hour and listen to the bar’s piano player, have dinner, and then stay to be entertained by a four to five piece band.” The restaurant incorporates Kentucky Derby themes in its dining areas, which partially acknowledge the creator’s affinity for the Louisville scene. “Mr. Ruby is extremely fond of Louisville and feels it has a better restaurant scene than in Cincinnati,” Johnson said. “He likes the city’s atmosphere and the people. And the response has been overwhelming.” While great steaks of aged prime beef (along with bison, pork, and lamb selections) are the showcase offerings — paired with large, shareable sides, including a baked potato boule, salads, and a mac and cheese dish prepared with nine cheeses — seafood options are equally competitive. “We have a Japanese sushi chef and daily fresh seafood selections,” Johnson said. “We also have a raw bar which, depending on availability, might have tiger prawns, Alaskan king crab legs, stone crab claws and three or four different oysters.” The restaurant’s creative desserts and its 900-bottle wine selection, shelved on racks built into the walls, make for as large or special a meal as you might wish. “We try to provide an overall great experience,” Johnson said. “Often visitors to town who try us ask us to come to their cities.” In January 2009, while the national economy was reeling from bank failures and a collapsing real estate market, Mehrzad Sharbaiani opened Z’s Fusion (115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000) at the corner of Fourth and West Market as a testament to his optimism and faith in downtown Louisville’s future.

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Jeff Ruby’s striking art deco inspired dining room.

Combining black granite, dark woods, ar t glass, stainless steel, and chandeliers from the local Glassworks (in a total job costing a rumored $2 million), Sharbaiani created a space which is both open and intimate, modern and elegant, and clearly committed to the epitome of dining’s best experiences. A glowing, blue-lighted wave running through the ceiling, also reflected in the carpeting, asserts the restaurant’s connection both to the river and a “new wave” focus on a “Hawaiian/Pan-Asian/European fusion cuisine.” “American food is generally a fusion cuisine, and our approach is to extend that exploration with different cultures,” said Sharbaiani. “While 30 years ago, European cuisine may have prevailed, today the tables have turned and the U.S. is now far ahead.” “I deal direct for both our seafood from Hawaii and oysters coming in from the Northwest,” Sharbaiani continued. “Sometimes product harvested in the morning can be here by the evening. We also strongly suppor t local growers because we want the best quality produce in addition to our meats and seafood.” Z’s Fusion joins a burgeoning local “fusion” scene, which can often

Jeff Ruby’s in-house, dry-aged beef (pictured), their signature bone-in filet mignon (right) and their refreshing Kentucky Bibb Bleu salad (below).

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be translated as “surprising and delicious creativity.” The menu changes regularly, but reflects the best available natural ingredients prepared in an interesting way. “We want to offer wonderful food in a relaxing atmosphere with exceptional service. Our vision is to elevate the quality of life by selling an exceptional dining experience,” Sharbaiani said. “We believe the downtown market is going to be very good.The city is making investments, residential is developing, the arena just opened and Museum Plaza is on the horizon. I still believe in it. I still believe it will be very beautiful.”

Fourth Street Live! (W. Liberty to Muhammad Ali) From Market Street you can look south beyond the convention center and Aegon Plaza and see the sharp diagonal roof, neon lights, and 20-foot tall guitar sign that mark Fourth Street Live! and its anchor The Hard Rock Cafe. This nearly square block enter tainment, retail and dining complex was opened in 2004 by Baltimore’s Cordish Group as an attraction for business visitors, tourists, and locals. Signs at each end of the block list upcoming talent and attractions, which often include special events free to the public in a festive, block party atmosphere. Reaching from Liber ty to Muhammad Ali Boulevard, Fourth Street

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(counter-clockwise from above) Ri Ra Irish Pub’s traditional corned beef and cabbage. At J. Gumbo’s, a hearty bowl of jambalaya. As American as rock-n-roll, Hard Rock Cafe’s Legendary 10 ounce loaded burger. Howl at the Moon’s neon sign beckons revelers to the dueling piano show while Hard Rock Cafe displays impressive rock-n-roll memorabilia. Warm goat cheese skillet with shiitake mushrooms from Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge.

Live! includes a food court, two coffee shops, and eight different clubs, bars and dining options that cater to a broad range of appetites and interests. Hard Rock Cafe (424 S. Fourth St., 568-2202) started in London in the 1970s and found success when Eric Clapton gave the owners one of his guitars to put on the wall above his favorite table. A week later, another guitar showed up with a note from The Who’s Pete Townshend saying, “Mine’s as good as his. Love, Pete.” The rest, as they say, is history and each location of this worldwide chain is a shrine to the memorabilia of modern pop music. Today 149 restaurants in 53 countries, in cities from Berlin to Bangalore, appeal to youthful spirits. Of course the concept wouldn’t work if well-prepared and flavorful food didn’t back it up, and in that regard adults and children can find what they’re looking for — whether it’s steaks, fajitas, Hawaiian grilled chicken, barbeque, or a selection of Legendary Burgers that offer about any taste combination imaginable. The Santa Fe Spring Rolls and the Hot Fudge Brownie also command a loyal following. Think “eclectic,” like the spirit of the music this venue represents, and you will likely be pleased.The music can sometimes be loud and not conducive to a quiet conversation. But before and after your meal, you can eyeball, among other treasures, clothes worn by Dolly Parton, Ringo Starr, and Stevie Nicks and guitars once used by Alice Cooper, Van Halen and Dave Matthews. There is also a pair of Elvis Presley’s sunglasses if you need a touch of “The King.” Fourth Street Live! offers grub popular with both visitors and workers who can peel away for an hour’s lunch or want to relax after hours. The Pub is popular both during and after work, frequently offering appetizer specials to accompany a happy hour pint. The Red Star Tavern, Sully’s Restaurant and Saloon, and the

new Sports and Social Club equally aim to please and usually do so in a professional and pleasant fashion. At night, the vibe shifts towards bars and dance spots, a stand-up comedy club, and places which make it easy to have a good time, like Howl At The Moon, a lively bar featuring dueling pianos where the crowd gets to sing along. Ri Ra Irish Pub (445 S. Fourth St., 587-1825) bears a special mention because of its focus on details and the spirit of an Irish public house. The name translates loosely as “King of Good Times” and that attitude seems to permeate the place without being pushy or put on. Irish music sessions take place Thursday and Friday evenings (local bands on weekends) and bartenders include Irish natives brought in on special one-year visas which might qualify them for training as managers. Dark wood, papered walls, antique architectural elements, sculptures and huge oil paintings of street scenes and mythical themes are everywhere in the space dominated by a huge black wood bar. “It actually came out of two Irish churches and is about 200 years old,” said General Manager Drew Dempsey of the bar. “We had two containers shipped over from Ireland with it and all the furniture inside. The guys who started this company were childhood friends in Ireland and their theme is to keep it authentic.” “We always have Guinness, Smithwick’s and Harp, the three most popular Irish drafts on tap, and some English beers, but we feature local brews as well,” Dempsey said. “We do traditional dishes and have fresh haddock shipped in six days a week, but we also serve American bistro fare.” If you want a lesson in the school of Bourbon and sophisticated dining as well, then look no further than Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge (446 S. Fourth St., 568-9009). The firstever licensed by the historic, small-batch, Maker’s Mark distillery in www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2011 35

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Loretto, Ky. (with an “integrity clause” allowing them to be a guardian angel), the Bourbon House & Lounge opened with Fourth Street Live! in 2004. Originally a trendy bar oozing sophistication and serving only a tapas menu, customer requests led to expanded offerings and today’s noteworthy menu. “Today, we have the best of what Kentucky has to offer in a really great setting,” said Aaron Price, who star ted with the opening as a server and is now general manager. “I think it is one of the most interesting places Louisville has to offer.” The feeling is one of comfortable sophistication. The gently lit room offers both small and large table seating areas, and one wall has a low platform with broad, low leather couches grouped around a fireplace suggesting a modern lounge you might find in Tokyo. Along the opposite wall is a 57-foot-long bar faced in glowing, back-lit Italian onyx above which rise glass shelves with hundreds of selections capped by 80 different amber-hued Bourbons, including some of the rarest. “We sell more of ten brands than any place in the world but also have some treasures like Jefferson’s Presidential Reserve, an absolutely amazing 17-year-old, or Heaven Hill’s Parker’s Heritage Golden Anniversary,” Price said. “We have good quality all the way to super premium. And we also get our annual rating from the Wine Spectator.” In the kitchen, co-executive chefs Brian Payne and Chris Elseser perform wonders exploring recipes from the former’s Southern grandmother as well as ventures in fusion cuisine. Along with a comfortable lunch menu, dinner selections range from Low Country shrimp and grits or buttermilk fried chicken with Bourbon redeye gravy to Thai crab cakes with Asian slaw and sweet chili sambal or Vietnamese shrimp skewers with a Bourbon plum barbeque sauce. “Our team are all experienced servers; there’s a family feel here while still experiencing upscale dining,” Price said. At the corner of Fourth and Muhammad Ali, Eddie Merlot’s (455 S. Fourth St., 584-3266), a new, high-end steakhouse just opened in the ground floor of the Stark’s Building, a space once reserved by the Cordish Group for an expansion but released in 2009 because of the flagging economy. Eddie Merlot’s offers another option in the growing niche catering to the traditional steak and seafood palate but in a brightly-colored, well-appointed, livelier setting. The specialty is hand-cut steaks seared and cooked on a high-heat grill and tableside preparation of dishes like shrimp scampi and Bananas Foster. This new chain is growing quickly with Louisville its fifth location after its flagship restaurant in Fort Wayne expanded to Indianapolis, Cincinnati, and Columbus, Ohio. Additional operations are planned in 2011 in Chicago and Denver with more on the horizon. A reported $3 million was spent on the renovation for the new restaurant in the historic Starks Building, and it shows. Maple and cherry wood table settings, art glass light fixtures, mosaics and burnished metals punctuate the space in what might be called a new Art Deco interpretation. If service matches the setting, then Eddie Merlot’s will likely be another popular spot in town. Initially, only dinner will be offered, Monday through Sunday, with broader hours planned if demand justifies it. 36 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

(Muhammad Ali Blvd. to W. Chestnut St.) Moving away from the convention and entertainment districts, one steps into the more historic section of Fourth Street where today historic hotels and their exceptional, multi-star restaurants which have been beacons through the decades rub shoulders with new restaurants of pleasing sophistication. The Oakroom (500 S. Fourth St., 807-3463) recalls a period of high aspirations and fine taste when brothers Louis and Otto Seelbach built their hotel in the grand tradition of Europe’s capital cities. Opened in 1905, at 10 stories it was the first skyscraper in the city and opulently fitted out in the French Renaissance style, much of which survives today because of meticulous restorations. Just a short visit can be a treat, taking in period architectural details, a lobby atrium with a grand staircase to the mezzanine, and large Arthur Thomas paintings above three walls depicting early Kentucky history (that’s Daniel Boone on the right above the registration desk, resting his elbow on his knee).The 10th floor ballroom is also where F. Scott Fitzgerald set Tom and Daisy Buchanan’s wedding in The Great Gatsby, a place he knew from visits as a young 2nd Lieutenant during World War I. While the Seelbach closed for a while in the 70s, since re-opening in 1982 it is one of the city’s classics. It is also home to the city’s only restaurant to win the AAA 5-diamond rating, The Oakroom. In 2009, changes included re-engaging Jim Gerhardt from Limestone Restaurant as executive chef and bringing in a passionate, 30-year-old Chef de Cuisine, Bobby Benjamin as well as Julie DeFriend as sommelier and maitre d’. “We’re educating customers that 5-diamond isn’t meant to be stuffy. We have distinctive dishes plus what customers might want — a good rib-eye, a bison loin,” hotel manager Jon McFarland said. “Last year we doubled hotel guest attendance.” “We revamped the kitchen for quicker service and I spent the first three months here visiting 12 local farms, searching for greens, cream, prawns, quail and farm eggs, Kentucky bison and pork, and cheeses,” Chef Benjamin said. “If I could do 100 percent local, I would; because knowing where your food comes from is the most important thing. And Kentucky is extremely blessed. The soil here produces a lot of great food.” The menu now features a striking creativity with many Kentucky-sourced ingredients and heralds an unabashed commitment to farmers of sustainable organic foods. Whether your choice is seafood, beef, lamb, bison, duck, or a bounty of vegetables, Benjamin aims to make it special. “I believe food is very emotional and I want to make it exciting, a great experience, different than any other you could have had,” Benjamin said. “We want it to be beautiful, so you might say, ‘How did they do that?’ We want it to taste delicious. And we want you to say ‘Wow, I can’t believe that came from Kentucky!’” Continuing south, on the sunny side of the Seelbach is friendly Sol Aztecas (520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666), this latest among the many local successes of Saul Garcias, who many years ago started in the United States as a migrant laborer in the Salinas Valley. He now oversees a half-dozen restaurants serving up flavorful Mexican standards that hit the mark. Lunch, happy hour, and dinner specials, with full bar service, draw patrons and the quality keeps them coming back.

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Oakroom Chef Bobby Benjamin’s Wagyu short ribs with roasted cauliflower and black truffle and smoked apple gelle.

From Sol Aztecas, Cocktail De Camarones — shrimp with avocado, tomatoes and peppers.

Diver scallops with a trio of local and imported caviar from The Oakroom.

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Also across the street, almost invisible behind a bland storefront, is Brian’s Deli (531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098), reported by downtown workers to have the best salad bar deal in town along with sandwiches to go. One can see a lot of both leaving the building in Styrofoam boxes at lunch hour.

Theater Square (W. Chestnut St. to Broadway) Chestnut to Broadway features an eclectic mix of historic architecture, much of it beautifully restored. It is called the Theater Square area because in an earlier era it housed five major movie theaters which offered the epitome of post war entertainment. Today,The Palace — a beautifully restored theater from that period that seats 2,000 and hosts film festivals, concerts, comedians and other acts — and the Brown Theatre on Broadway are all that remain. But in Theater Square, history is being joined by new developments in creating more of a neighborhood feel. A nice mix of smaller places offering good food at reasonable prices, and old and new outlets provide broad dining options. Don’t let the modern facade and blue awnings mislead you. Cunningham’s (630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526) is one of Louisville’s oldest restaurants, dating back to 1871, and its loyal local following can make for a lively setting on special occasions like Mother’s Day. The original restaurant in Old Louisville, which burned to the ground in 2001, was loved by many because of its private booths and upstairs rooms (all of which had a “history”), and the friendly servers. It was a relief to many when they opted to stay downtown and reopened across from The Palace in 2003, bringing some of the history and spirit of the old place along. Fish sandwiches, bean or turtle soup, and good burgers are often associated with Cunningham’s for a lunch or before-theater meal, but the menu is pretty extensive, offering 11 salads, two dozen sandwiches, pan-fried or rolled oysters, broiler or seafood dinner options, and some pretty luscious desserts. The menu in several places reminds you that an offering is “homemade” or “the real stuff.” “Everything is homemade, the soups, the chili, our cobblers. We roast our turkeys and our beef,” said Donald George, who has owned the business since 1981. “We cook it all. Nothing is frozen.” Mr. George designed some of the character of the old place into his new location. There’s a friendly bar, a small dining area to one side with the walls covered in photos of race horses and boxers, a larger dining area with some booths, and a half-dozen small private rooms along the wall that will let you get out of the hubbub. He also made a pointed effort to search out old pictures to replace those lost in the fire. It’s perhaps the best, most accessible collection of photos of what Louisville looked like 50 or 100 years ago and is worth your time. Across the street are two smallish restaurants that opened to serve the lunch crowd, but because of their high quality have developed a loyal following. Sicilian Pizza & Pasta (631 S. Fourth St., 589-8686) started out as a small nook, but quickly became popular for its great handtossed pizzas, subs, calzones and salads. Word-of-mouth and the aromas wafting out the door have worked and it now has doubled in size by expanding into the neighboring space. Recently added beer options also make for a better visit, whether at lunch or dinner. They also deliver. 38 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

Safier’s Mediterranean Deli (641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125) has only 13 tables (more outside when the weather’s nice) but serves up great Middle Eastern food. It’s known for its friendly staff, lunchtime specials, vegetarian options, addictive hummus, and perhaps the best tabouli in town. Sapporo (649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333), the latest arrival on Theater Square (June 2010), is this exquisitely modern and boldly styled Japanese restaurant offering a broad selection of sushi, sashimi, Bento box and Japanese-style entrees by Mi and U Kim. It is contemporary and intimate and there are no noisy tapenyaki grills to distract from the vibe (they’re kept where they belong — in the kitchen). The Kims first started serving Louisville patrons in 1998. Their very popular Sapporo in the Highlands has garnered several city “best of ” awards. Their reported million-dollar investment in this admittedly gorgeous setting is a testament to the optimism felt about downtown’s future. “We are trying to do something the city doesn’t have,” Mi Kim said. “Someday, I know, downtown is going to be beautiful. It might take a while, but it is going to work.” Beautiful high tops, a long, sinuous bar, and broad booths let you suit your mood and appetite with either a short bite or complete meal. The beautifully appointed patio seats up to 50, and can be enclosed against the weather. And the food doesn’t disappoint, whether it is from the extensive sushi menu, traditional noodle dishes, stir fries, or a pick of one of the dishes that embody Japanese cuisine’s genius for delicious combinations of seafood and meats. The Theater Square Marketplace is an imaginative reuse of the old Kentucky Theater by partners George Stinson, Ed Lewis and Eric Haner that intends to serve the multiple needs of an urban neighborhood. There’s a bagel and coffee shop in the old ticket booth, a wine and spirits store in one half of the foyer and a take-out deli on the other side with café table seating running between the three nodes. In back is a small grocery store with both the basics and specialty items (from bread to olives, to pastas, to cheeses) that you might need to whip up something for a quick gathering or to take back to your hotel room. The glass-enclosed bar opens onto a swanky patio. The Marketplace Restaurant (651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001) fills the body of the old theater and seats 150, but is partitioned and decorated in a way that feels remarkably cozy and intimate. Taste is obvious in all the appointments, including art glass chandeliers, table settings and decorations. With Dallas McGarity joining the partnership as the new chef, food is now a strong suit as well. “At The Marketplace, we are developing a cuisine that is eclectic and different to match the atmosphere of its setting,” McGarity said. “This is a fun and inviting environment. We’re concentrating on Kentucky Proud products and coming up with approachable comfort food with an Italian and Mediterranean twist.” After just two months, the restaurant is receiving new, strong reviews, largely because of McGarity’s confident blending of premium local ingredients with European technique. Mac and cheese is topped with caramelized onions, and infused with herbs and truffle oil. Grilled Tanglewood chicken is flavored with lemon and herbs and served with potato and braised greens. A pesto eggplant and tomato dish is presented with couscous along with pine nuts, feta, and tzatziki.

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Sapporo’s polished and expansive sushi bar. (below) Our kind of boxed lunch — a Bento Box from Sapporo’s.

Marketplace Restaurant Chef Dallas McGarity’s sea bass with bacon, greens and gigante beans.

Sapporo’s sushi and sashimi special — ebi, maguro, sake and super white tuna.

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Daily “blue plate” specials for lunch join good salads and sandwiches that include a hearty burger as well as a BLT served on ciabatta bread with Bibb lettuce, applewood bacon and lemon garlic aioli. Committed to its “Beer is Food” slogan since opening in 1993, Bluegrass Brewing Company (660 S. Fourth St., 568-2224) — “the BBC” — is Louisville’s longest operating microbrewery and regularly wins awards at national competitions. It branched out with this Theater Square location in 2007 which has become a popular lunch and dinner spot with a relaxed, casual vibe. They also recently opened a third location at Third and Main, across from the new Yum! Arena. BBC offers a solid list of brews, including their well-known Nut Brown Ale, American Pale Ale, Bourbon Barrel Stout, and Dark Star Porter (which are also available in some retail outlets) and often features seasonal specialties. They serve both solid pub food and vegetarian options, some of which are creative, like their handmade veggie burger with spinach and walnuts. When the weather’s good, patio seating outside under the awning provides a great setting from which to watch the passing street scene. Louisville’s other grand hotel, the 16-story Brown Hotel built in 1923, commands the corner of Fourth Street and Broadway. Built in an English Renaissance style by entrepreneur J. Graham Brown, it is worth a visit if only to stroll through its long, second floor reception lobby to see the bas-relief plaster ceilings, ornate moldings, carved railings, large arched windows and sumptuous furnishings. It is here that hotel chef Fred K. Schmidt created in the J. Graham’s Café the famous “Hot Brown” — an open-face turkey sandwich covered in Mornay sauce and garnished with bacon and pimentos or tomatoes — as a late breakfast alternative for the hundreds who used to come in the 1920s to dinner dances and stay late. It is also here that the English Grill has remained largely unchanged as one of the city’s preeminent dining spots. The English Grill (335 W. Broadway, 583-1234) is an intimate setting with quarter-sawn wood columns, stained glass windows, a large collection of equestrian art, and large tables surrounded by upholstered chairs and illuminated by individual lamps. “You can eat out anywhere but you choose to dine someplace special,” said general manager Neal Ward. “Word of mouth is still the leading player in why people come here. They feel their needs are attended to in the very best way and the food is extraordinary.” Many hold the opinion that the filet mignon and grilled rib-eye are two of the best steaks in town. Similar praise is raised over seafood offerings of crab cakes, scallops, salads and pastas, The cuisine is overseen by Executive Chef Laurent Geroli, a Montreal native who professionally trained in Ritz-Carlton hotels across the Caribbean and North America. “Using the best local ingredients with a flair, we are trying to create a more regional Continental cuisine, like barbeque duck for example, or our pork chop with house-made wild boar sausage,” Geroli said. “We are trying to be creative and personable.” “Here you usually get two ‘Oh, my God’ moments — the presentation and putting it in your mouth,” Ward said. “There is 50 years combined experience among our captains who each believe the spirit of this place, that hospitality is a spiritual affair.” By embracing its history, reinvigorating its gems, and offering new opportunities for talent and passion, Louisville is creating a new future for its downtown and a vibrant dining scene. Make time to enjoy the treasures to be found there. F&D 40 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

The English Grill’s pork chop with wild boar sausage.

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Chef Agostino Gabriele adds his personal touch at Vincenzo’s, the landmark restaurant in the newly named Restaurant Square district.

Chef Edoardo Bacci’s (The English Grill) wild hare sausage with a whole grain mustard sauce.

A good example of downtown Louisville’s current vitality is the newly announced “Restaurant Square.” This partnership between restaurateurs, corporations and city government showcases a myriad of dining options between Fourth and Fifth Streets and Market and Jefferson. As 2011 unfolds, this area will feature new banners, sidewalk upgrades, and landscaping improvements. The area generally surrounds the large open space of Aegon Plaza directly across from the Kentucky International Convention Center, which benefits from being at the crossroads of both northsouth and east-west pedestrian traffic between downtown’s various “neighborhoods.” Think the civic district around City Hall, Museum Row on West Market, the convention center, business centers, hotels and Fourth Street Live! along Fourth Street, and Waterfront Park and sports venues at the Yum! Arena and Slugger Field to the east. The great variety here ranges from the venerable, high-end Vincenzo’s, opened in 1986 by brothers Vincenzo and Agostino Gabriele to traditional barbeque at Fire Fresh BBQ and great Asian fare at Bendoya and Osaka as well as a new undertaking full of talent and passion — Anderson Grissom’s transformation of the old Delta into the ambitious Dish on Market, featuring the work of chefs Michael Hargrove and Bret Donaldson. Dish on Market 434 W. Market St., 315-0669 Heitzman Bakery 428 W. Market St., 584-2437 Osaka Japanese Restaurant 426 W. Market St., 588-8899 Chop Shop Salads 436 W. Market St., 589-2467 TC’S Sandwich Shoppe 438 W. Market St., 581-9200 Fire Fresh BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171 Bendoya Sushi Bar 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700 Quizno’s 223 S. Fifth St., 589-5520 Double Dragon 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686 Down To Lunch Grille 239 S. Fifth St., 589-0865 Qdoba Mexican Grill 300 S. Fourth St., 855-4450 Zoe’s Kitchen 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000 Panera Bread 400 W. Market St., 540-5250 Vincenzo’s Restaurant 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350

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easy entertaining wine & cheese

BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Wine &Cheese Party

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For a fun and easy party, gather your friends, family and neighbors for a wine and cheese tasting. Everyone can get involved and enjoy their own tasting experience as they sample a variety of cheeses and sip a selection of wines. Follow some quick pairing guidelines and you’ll find the food and the wine both taste even better.

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easy entertaining wine & cheese Turn to your local cheesemonger for tips and guidance on selecting cheeses. We consulted with Will Eaves at Lotsa Pasta, looking for cheeses that our guests might find new or interesting. Will is an expert on cheese and loves to share his passion and knowledge. He suggested the following for our tasting:

Cheese Ideas w w w w w w w

Aged Gouda Vella Dry Aged Monterey Jack Sharp Cheddar (Kenny’s Farmhouse) Beemster X-O Caciotta Alpina Aged Goat Cheese Morbier Saint-André

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BY TIM AND LORI LAIRD | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Here is a must-try pairing guide: Sauvignon Blanc with goat cheese: Both slightly acidic, they also pack a strong taste. Tried together, the wine tastes creamier and the cheese seems milder. Chardonnay with Fontina: While Fontina can be pungent with an intense flavor, this pairing lends both the wine and cheese a lush, creamy taste. Cabernet Sauvignon with blue cheese: Both the wine and the cheese possess big, bold flavors. Sampled together though, the wine tames the blue cheese and the cheese turns the wine velvety smooth. What’s the magic behind this transformation? The fat content of the cheese mellows the tannins in the wine. For a sweet treat try a couple bites of dark bittersweet chocolate with the Cabernet. It is a wonderful marriage of food and wine. For a festive dessert, rim a red wine glass in melted chocolate, let set and when it’s dessert time fill it with Cabernet.

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Tips on hosting a wine and cheese party: w Your guests will enjoy experimenting with lots of flavors — offer a wide selection of white and red wines and let them at it. w Pouring two or three sips of wine per glass lets everyone try several combinations. Plan on approximately 12-15 tasting pours per bottle of wine. w Use a multi-tasking glass. A standard wine glass or one of your larger white wine glasses will work just fine with both white and red wines. w Help guests keep track of their wine glasses with fun wine charms. w Provide a pitcher of water and a dump bucket so your guests can rinse their glass after each wine. w Give the cheeses a chance to exhibit their full flavor — set them out at least one hour ahead so they have time to come to room temperature. w Plate each of the cheeses with their own serving knife and leave plenty of space between them so the flavors won’t blend. w Use cheese markers to let your guests know what they are tasting. w Set out several different crackers and light bites to help cleanse the palate after each tasting. w Plate an assortment of fresh fruit to complement the cheeses. Grapes and other high acid berries (try sweet and tart raspberries) cut the fats on the palate and open up the flavors of both the wine and cheese. Nuts, especially walnuts, cashews, and almonds, will pair well with the wines too. w Sample the wines and cheeses from light to heavy. Start with the white wines and then move into the reds. Follow the same format for cheese — save the strongest cheeses, especially the blues, for the end. (The flavor carries into anything that follows.) w Try rimming red wine glasses with melted chocolate, then serving Cabernet in them. w Encourage your guests to sip, taste, and talk. Ask them to dish on the wine and cheese experience and share their feedback. w Find the favorites — ask who liked which pairings the best. w When beginning, follow our must-try pairing guide to explore the sensation of what a great pairing can do for the wine and the cheese. After you get your feet wet, experiment and have fun on your own.

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A basic guide to other pairings Blue Cabernet Sauvignon Riesling Shiraz Zinfandel

Brie Chardonnay Pinot Noir

Cheddar Riesling Sauvignon Blanc Merlot Shiraz

Gouda Riesling Merlot Zinfandel

Gruyere Chardonnay Riesling Sauvignon Blanc Shiraz

Monterey Jack Riesling Sauvignon Blanc Merlot

Parmigiano-Reggiano Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot

Swiss Sauvignon Blanc Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Noir

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recipes cooking class

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Bursting with Flavor A Quartet of Vegetarian Dishes When you’re cooking for a sheikh, you’d best give it everything you’ve got, and chef Allen Akmon, chair of culinary arts at Sullivan University did just that with his onion tart. “I make a German-inspired bacon and caramelized onion tart,” says Akmon, “but when I cooked for Sheikh Mohammed and the Princess of Jordan, I adapted it to work without pork.” Akmon first cooked for the leader of Dubai when he and the princess visited for Derby. Especially for them he created this luscious, rich — and vegetarian — dish that he’s now sharing with us. On the lighter side, but no less flavorful, is his vegan fettuccini. “It’s fresh flavors that all go together,” he says of this light dish bursting with fresh vegetables that’s just the opposite of what you might expect from a heavy plate of pasta. Chef David Dodd turns a classic party favorite — spinach and artichoke dip — into a pasta dish on the heartier side. “I thought if we just divided that dip up a little bit and put some pasta in it, it might work. And it did!” Dodd also brings us a roasted vegetable dish inspired by his days as a chef at a vegetarian hostel in Camberley, England, in the late 1960s. “We’d literally do hundreds of pounds of roasted root vegetables and we’d turn that into soup or salads,” he says. He remained a fan of roasted veggie salads, and added fresh mozzarella for his young step-daughter, who loved the cheese. “I threw it in one day and all of a sudden she loved vegetables!” he says.

Chef Allen Akmon

Chef David Dodd

Artichoke Lasagna

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Vegan fettuccini

Roasted vegetable and cheese salad

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Caramelized Three Onion Vegetarian Tart (SERVES 4)

Serve this tart with your favorite salsa, pureed roasted red peppers or pureed roasted tomatoes with Italian seasoning. 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus a little for garnish 2 cups peeled shallots, cut in half 2 small red onions, diced 3 leeks (white part only), washed and roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup sour cream 8 ounces heavy cream 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 1 /2 teaspoon caraway seeds, if desired 8 sheets phyllo dough, thawed according to package directions 8 ounces (1 cup) butter, melted 1 tomato sliced paper-thin, for garnish (see below) Heat olive oil in a sautĂŠ pan over medium heat; add shallots, red onions and leeks. Cook over medium heat, stirring periodically. After 6 to 8 minutes the onions and shallots should begin caramelizing. After 10 minutes add the garlic, salt and pepper and cook an additional 2 minutes. Set mixture aside. In a mixing bowl, mix eggs, sour cream, fresh thyme, caraway, and heavy cream. When onion mixture cools to room temperature add to the custard mix.

The Tart Shell Heat oven to 350 degrees. Lay a sheet of phyllo dough onto a cutting board or counter and brush generously with melted butter. Add another sheet and repeat until the dough is 8 sheets thick. Cut dough into 4 equally sized pieces by cutting in half horizontally and then vertically. Shape each into a cup shape by pressing into a muffin tin. Bake empty cups for 14 minutes. Using a ladle or measuring cup fill each cup with room temperature custard and onion mixture. Place back in the oven and bake for an additional 15 minutes or until the custard becomes firm. Caramelized three onion tart

50 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

For garnish: Slice tomato paper-thin and brush with olive oil. Dry for 1 hour at 150 degrees. Place slices on pie before serving.

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Artichoke Lasagna (SERVES 4)

1 2 4 1 1/2 12 4 3 2 2 1 1 2

2 4

red onion, finely minced tablespoons olive oil cloves garlic, minced cups heavy cream lasagna noodles, cooked and dried with a paper towel cups ricotta cheese cups grated Parmesan cheese tablespoons parsley, chopped eggs, beaten tablespoon basil pesto 15-ounce can artichoke hearts, chopped cups wilted spinach, (from about 1 pound fresh), squeezed dry roma tomatoes, diced cups shredded mozzarella cheese Salt and pepper to taste (season each layer)

Spray a 13x9-inch glass, earthenware or Pyrex dish with olive oil. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Combine onion and olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat and cook about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened. Add garlic and cook 5 minutes more. Pour 1/2-cup heavy cream into the prepared lasagna pan and add 4 cooked noodles. In a large bowl mix the ricotta cheese with half the Parmesan cheese, the parsley, egg, basil pesto and remaining heavy cream. Spread one-third of the ricotta cheese mixture over the noodles and sprinkle with half the artichokes, half the onion mixture, half the spinach, half the tomatoes, and a quarter of the mozzarella cheese. Top with 4 noodles and repeat layering. Top with remaining noodles, spread with the remaining ricotta cheese mix. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan and mozzarella over top. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove foil; turn oven to broil. Broil until cheese on top is golden brown.

Vegan Fettuccini (SERVES 4)

2 2 1 1 /4 5 1

pieces salsify or parsnip, peeled carrots, peeled cup fava or lima beans cup extra virgin olive oil cloves garlic, sliced thin pint heirloom cherry tomatoes,

peeled if desired 16 leaves fresh basil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Using a peeler, shave the carrots and the salsify or parsnips into thin lengthwise strips. Bring half-gallon of salted water to a boil and add fava beans and vegetable strips. Stir gently for 2 minutes. Remove and immerse immediately in cold water. Heat olive oil in a sautĂŠ pan and add garlic slices, cooking over medium-high heat until lightly browned. Place olive oil and garlic into a mixing bowl and add red wine vinegar, salt and pepper, mixing lightly. Add drained vegetable strips, fava beans, tomatoes and whole basil leaves to mixing bowl, tossing gently until all are coated lightly with vinaigrette. Serve at room temperature or slightly warm.

Roasted Vegetable and Cheese Salad (SERVES 4)

1 red onion, quartered and layers separated 1 yellow squash, cubed 1 small eggplant, cubed 2 red bell peppers, cut in thin strips lengthwise 2 roma tomatoes, sliced in 1 /2-inch wedges 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 /4 teaspoon celery seed 1 /4 teaspoon fennel seed, crushed 1 /4 teaspoon (freshly ground) black pepper 2 cups small balls mozzarella cheese, halved 1 cup diced smoked Gouda cheese 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated Heat oven to 400 degrees. Mix all the vegetables on a wide, heavy baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil; sprinkle with basil, celery seed, crushed fennel and pepper. Toss to coat vegetables. Roast vegetables 15 to 20 minutes, stirring once or twice. Remove any pieces that appear to be getting too brown. Toss cooled vegetables with mozzarella, Gouda and balsamic vinegar. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. F&D www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2011 51

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Alphabetical Index

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, THE CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). UNMAPPED [ ] DENOTES MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

Cuisine Style

RESTAURANT

72 72 74 74 75 75 75 75 71 71 59 61 67 78 78 64 80 81 67 75 76 76 76 77 56 66 77 78 72 78 68 69 62 80 63 57

Area Maps

82

dining guide

AFRICAN ASIAN/CHINESE ASIAN/FILIPINO ASIAN/JAPANESE ASIAN/KOREAN ASIAN/MONGOLIAN ASIAN/THAI ASIAN/VIETNAMESE BAR & GRILL BARBECUE BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY CAFÉS CAFETERIAS CAJUN/CREOLE CARIBBEAN/CUBAN CASUAL DINING COFFEE/TEA HOUSE DESSERTS/BAKERY ENTERTAINMENT DINING EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN EUROPEAN/GERMAN EUROPEAN/IRISH EUROPEAN/ITALIAN EUROPEAN/SPANISH FINE DINING HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN INDIAN MEXICAN MICROBREWERIES MIDDLE EASTERN PIZZA SANDWICH/DELI SEAFOOD SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX STEAKHOUSE UPSCALE CASUAL

MAP # DIRECTION PG # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 highlands – crescent hill NEAR EAST 86 3 st. matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 hikes point – buechel EAST 88 5 hurstbourne – anchorage EAST 89 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 indian hills – westport FAR NORTH EAST 90 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NEW MAP NA 9 under construction NORTH EAST 91 10 prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 fern creek SOUTH WEST 92 12 shively – pleasure ridge SOUTH 93 13 old louisville – airport INDIANA 94 14 new albany – floyds knobs INDIANA 95 15 clarksville INDIANA 95 16 jeffersonville

52 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

#1 Asian Buffet 72 Asian/Chinese 2 211 Clover Lane 56 Fine Dining 3 60 West Bistro 57 Upscale Casual 3 610 Magnolia 56 Fine Dining 13 732 Social 57 Upscale Casual 1 8 China Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 6 A Nice Restaurant 64 Casual Dining 14, 16 A Taste of China 73 Asian/Chinese 1 A.J.’s Gyro Café 78 Middle Eastern 14 Adrienne & Co. Bakery Café 81 Desserts/Bakery 16 Adrienne’s Italian 76 European/Italian 16 Ahoy Fish Hut 62 Seafood 4 Al Watan 78 Middle Eastern 4 Alexander’s Pizzeria 68 Pizza 16 Alley Cat Café 61 Cafés 5 Amazing Grace Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 Amici 76 European/Italian 13 Anchorage Café 61 Cafés 5 Angelina’s Café 76 European/Italian 5 Angilo’s Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Angio’s Restaurant 68 Pizza 4 Ann’s by the River 67 Cafeterias 16 Annie Cafe 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Annie’s Pizza 68 Pizza 1, 12 Another Place 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Applebee’s 64 Casual Dining [6] Arni’s Pizza 68 Pizza 14 Aroma Café 61 Cafés 14 Artesia Fusion Bistro 59 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Asahi Japanese 74 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Asian Moon 73 Asian/Chinese 4, 6 Asiatique 57 Upscale Casual 2 Aspen Creek Restaurant 64 Casual Dining 11 Atrium Café 59 Bistro/Contemporary 5 August Moon 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Austin’s 57 Upscale Casual 7 Avalon 57 Upscale Casual 2 BD’s Mongolian Grill 75 Asian/Mongolian 6 B.J.’s Restaurant & Brewhouse 64 Casual Dining 5 Backyard Burger 69 Sandwich/Deli 6 The Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 Bamboo House 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Bank Street Brewhouse 72 Microbreweries 14 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 2 The Bard’s Town 67 Entertainment Dining 2 Basa Modern Vietnamese 57 Upscale Casual 2 Baxter Station 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bazos Mexican Grill 78 Mexican 3, 6 Bean Street Café 8o Coffee/Tea House 14 Bearno’s Pizza 68 Pizza [12] Beef O’Brady’s 71 Bar & Grill 5, 12, 13, 14, 15 Beijing Grill & Sushi Bar 74 Asian/Japanese 14 Bendoya Sushi Bar 74 Asian/Japanese 1 Big Al’s Beeritaville 71 Bar & Grill 2 Big Blue Country 71 Bar & Grill 2 Big Momma’s Soul Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 1 The Bistro 67 Cafeterias 3 Bistro 42 76 European/Italian 10 Bistro 301 59 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro Le Relais 59 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Blackstone Grille 57 Upscale Casual 10 Blimpie’s Subs 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 The Blind Pig 59 Bistro/Contemporary 2 BLU Mediterranean Grille 57 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 61 Cafés 2 Blue Horse Café 64 Casual Dining 13 Blue Lagoon 62 Seafood 2 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 72 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bombay Grill 77 Indian 5 Bonefish Grill 62 Seafood 5 Bonnie & Clyde’s Pizza 68 Pizza 12 Boombozz Famous Pizza 68 Pizza 3 Boombozz Pizza Bistro 68 Pizza 6 Boombozz Pizza & Taphouse 68 Pizza 2, 5 Boomer’s Café 61 Cafés 1 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 71 Barbecue 11, 13 Borromeo’s Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Bosna-Mak 75 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbons Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 71 Barbecue 5 Bravo! 57 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 5, 7 Brendan O’Shea’s 76 European/Irish 3 Brian’s Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Brickhouse Tavern & Tap 64 Casual Dining 6 Bristol Bar & Grille 57 Upscale Casual 1,2,5,10,13,16 Brix Wine Bar 60 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Browning’s Brewery 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Buca Di Beppo 76 European/Italian 6 Buck’s 56 Fine Dining 13 Buckhead Mountain Grill 64 Casual Dining 4, 8, 16

RESTAURANT

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

Buffalo Wild Wings Buffalo Wings & Rings Bungalow Joe’s Bunz Restaurant Burger Boy Burning Bush Grille Butcher’s Best Deli Butterfly Garden Café Café 360 Café Envy Café Fraiche Café Lou Lou Café Magnolia Café Mimosa Café Montagu Café Palacio Café Thuy Van Caffe Classico Cake Flour California Pizza Kitchen Calistoga Bakery Café Captain Pepper Jack’s Captain’s Quarters Cardinal Hall of Fame Café Carley Rae’s Carmen’s Cupcakes Carolyn’s Carrabba’s Italian Grille Caspian Grill Persian Bistro Cast Iron Steakhouse Cat Box Deli Caviar Japanese Rest. Cellar Door Chocolates Champions Grill Champion’s Sports Bar Charlestown Pizza Co. Check’s Café Cheddar Box Café Cheddar’s Casual Café The Cheesecake Factory Chez Seneba African Chicago Gyros The Chicken House Chicken King The Chili Pot Chili’s China 1 China Buffet China Café China Castle China Garden China Inn China King China Taste Chinese Chef Chinese Express Choi’s Asian Food Market Chong Garden Chopshop Salads Chopsticks Chopsticks House Chung King Chuy’s Cici’s City Café Clarksville Seafood Clifton’s Pizza Clucker’s Wings Coach Lamp Coals Artisan Pizza CoCo’s Chocolate Café Cocos Lokos Caribbean Coffee Crossing Coffee Pot Café Come Back Inn The Comfy Cow Corbett’s ‘an American place’ Corner Café Corner Door Bar & Grill Cottage Café Cottage Inn Cozza Osteria Enoteca Crave Café & Catering Cravings a la Carte Creekside Outpost & Café Cricket’s Café Crystal Chinese Cubana Restaurant Culver’s Cumberland Brews Cunningham’s The Cupcake Shoppe Cyclers Café Dakshin Indian Restaurant DaLat’s Gateaux & Bakery Danish Express Pastries Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza Day’s Espresso De La Torre’s Del Frisco’s Derby Café Derby City Espresso Derby Dinner Playhouse Desserts By Helen

MAP #

71 Bar & Grill 2,3,5,6,8,12,15 71 Bar & Grill 8, 11 71 Bar & Grill 11 64 Casual Dining 2 69 Sandwich/Deli 13 78 Middle Eastern 10 69 Sandwich/Deli 10 61 Cafés 2, 3 78 Middle Eastern 2 64 Casual Dining 1 61 Cafés 7 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2,3 64 Casual Dining 1 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 61 Cafés 13 69 Sandwich/Deli 3 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 81 Desserts/Bakery 1 68 Pizza 5 69 Sandwich/Deli 1, 3 78 Middle Eastern 4 64 Casual Dining 10 64 Casual Dining 13 66 Home Style/Southern 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 8 66 Home Style/Southern 12 76 European/Italian 5 78 Middle Eastern 2 63 Steakhouse 16 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 57 Upscale Casual 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 64 Casual Dining 16 71 Bar & Grill 1 68 Pizza 16 66 Home Style/Southern 1 61 Cafés 5 64 Casual Dining 8, 13, 15 58 Upscale Casual 3 72 African 13 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 66 Home Style/Southern 14 66 Home Style/Southern 1 66 Home Style/Southern 13 64 Casual Dining 4, 5, 8, 13 73 Asian/Chinese 3 73 Asian/Chinese 15 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 12 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 6 73 Asian/Chinese 16 73 Asian/Chinese 13 73 Asian/Chinese 12 74 Asian/Japanese 5 73 Asian/Chinese 12 64 Casual Dining 1, 3 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 1 73 Asian/Chinese 1 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 68 Pizza 4, 14 61 Cafés 1, 2 62 Seafood 15 68 Pizza 2 71 Bar & Grill 14 64 Casual Dining 1 68 Pizza 3 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 78 Caribbean/Cuban 6 80 Coffee/Tea House 14 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 76 European/Italian 1, 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 56 Fine Dining 8 58 Upscale Casual 5 71 Bar & Grill 2 66 Home Style/Southern 5 66 Home Style/Southern 13 76 Mexican 16 61 Cafés 2 67 Cafeterias 1 62 Cafés 14 62 Cafés 15 73 Asian/Chinese 1 78 Caribbean/Cuban 2 64 Casual Dining 6 72 Microbreweries 2 64 Casual Dining 1, 10 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 62 Cafés 2 77 Indian 11 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 68 Pizza 13 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 77 European/Spanish 2 63 Steakhouse 3 62 Cafés 13 80 Coffee/Tea House 1 68 Entertainment Dining 16 81 Desserts/Bakery 1, 2

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RESTAURANT

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Devino’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Diamond Pub & Billiards 71 Bar & Grill 3 Difabio’s Casapela 76 European/Italian 2 DiOrio’s Pizza & Pub 68 Pizza 3 Dish On Market 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Ditto’s Grill 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1 Don Pablos 78 Mexican 15 Donegan’s Restaurant & Pub 71 Bar & Grill 2 Dooley’s Bagels 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 7 Double Dragon 73 Asian/Chinese 1, 2 Double Dragon II 73 Asian/Chinese 8, 11, 12, 13 Double Dragon 8 73 Asian/Chinese 1 Double Dragon 9 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Double Dragon Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Down To Lunch Grille 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Downtown Diner & Coffee House 62 Cafés 14 Dragon King’s Daughter 74 Asian/Japanese 2 Dynasty Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 7 Eagle Lake & Restaurant 62 Seafood 12 Eastern House 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Eddie Merlot’s 63 Steakhouse 1 Edesia Gardens 64 Casual Dining 6 Eggroll Machine 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Eiderdown 76 European/German 13 Einstein Brothers Bagels 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 El Burrito de Oro 78 Mexican 15 El Caporal 78 Mexican 4, 6, 15 El Mundo 78 Mexican 2 El Nopal 78 Mexican 3,5,6,7,8,13,14 El Nopalito 79 Mexican 4, 11 El Rey Mexican 79 Mexican 4 El Rodeo Mexican 79 Mexican 12 El Sombrero 79 Mexican 16 El Tarasco 79 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 13 El Toro Cantina & Grill 79 Mexican 6 Emperor of China 73 Asian/Chinese 7 Empress of China 73 Asian/Chinese 4 The English Grill 56 Fine Dining 1 Equus 58 Upscale Casual 3 Erika’s German Rest. 76 European/German 6 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 62 Cafés 1, 10 Ernesto’s 79 Mexican 5, 6 ET’s Memphis Bar-B-Q 71 Barbecue 16 Expression Of You 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 The Falafel House 78 Middle Eastern 2 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 71 Barbecue 6, 15 Fat Daddy’s Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Fat Jimmy’s 68 Pizza 1, 2, 5 Feed Bag Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 8, 11 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 71 Barbecue 1, 12 First Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 12 The Fish House 62 Seafood 2, 5 The Fishery 62 Seafood 3, 5 Five Guys Burgers & Fries 64 Casual Dining 8, 14 Flanagans Ale House 72 Bar & Grill 2 Fleur de Lis Café 62 Cafés 2 Forty Acres And A Mule 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Four King’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 4 Fox & Hound 72 Bar & Grill 3 Franco’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Frankfort Ave. Beer Depot 71 Barbecue 2, 3 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli & Pizza 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 Frolio’s Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Frontier Diner 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Fuji Asian Bistro 74 Asian/Japanese 12 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 74 Asian/Japanese 5, 8 Fun Food Café 62 Cafés 2 Funmi Café 72 African 2 Gary’s On Spring 64 Casual Dining 2 Gasthaus 76 European/German 7 Gavi’s Restaurant 64 Casual Dining 1 Gerstle’s Place 72 Bar & Grill 3 Gigi’s Cupcakes 81 Desserts/Bakery 6 Golden Buddha 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Corral 66 Home Style/Southern 4,13,15 Golden Palace 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Star Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Golden Wall 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Goose Creek Diner 64 Casual Dining 8 Granny’s Apron 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Granville Inn 72 Bar & Grill 13 Grape Leaf 78 Middle Eastern 2 Great American Grill 72 Bar & Grill 13 Great Harvest Bread Co. 81 Desserts/Bakery 5, 14 Great Life Café 70 Cafés 6, 8, 15 Great Wall 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Great Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Green Room Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 6 Habana Blues Tapas 78 Caribbean/Cuban 14 Hall’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 2 Hammerheads 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hanabi Japanese Restaurant 74 Asian/Japanese 10 Happy China 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Hard Rock Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Harley’s Hardwoodz Bar-B-Q 71 Barbecue 16 Havana Rumba 78 Caribbean/Cuban 3, 5 Hawksview Gallery 58 Upscale Casual 13 Hazelwood Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Heine Brothers Coffee 80 Coffee/Tea House 2,3,4,5 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Desserts/Bakery 1, 5 Highland Coffee Co. 80 Coffee/Tea House 2 www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2011 53

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Hiko A Mon Sushi Bar 74 Asian/Japanese 5 Hill Street Fish Fry 62 Seafood 13 Hillbilly Tea 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Hitching Post Inn 72 Bar & Grill 11 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Coffee/Tea House 14 Holy Grale 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Home Run Burgers & Fries 64 Casual Dining 3, 5, 6 Homemade Ice Cream & Pie Kitchen 81 Desserts2,3,5,6,8,11,15 Hometown Buffet 66 Home Style/Southern 6, 3 Hometown Pizza 68 Pizza 5, 7 Honey Creme Donut Shop 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Honeybaked Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 14 Hong Kong Chinese 73 Asian/Chinese 14 Hong Kong Fast Food 73 Asian/Chinese 13 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 13 Hooters 64 Casual Dining 3,13,12,15,16 Howl at the Moon 68 Entertainment Dining 1 Hunan Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 11 Ichiban Samurai 74 Asian/Japanese 6 IHOP 64 Casual Dining 6, 15 Improv Comedy Club 68 Entertainment Dining 1 Incredible Dave’s 68 Entertainment Dining 8 Indi’s Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 1,3,13,16 Intermezzo Café & Cabaret 58 Upscale Casual 1 The International Mall 76 European/Italian 1 The Irish Exit 76 European/Irish 14 The Irish Rover 76 European/Irish 2, 7 Iroquois Pizza 68 Pizza 13 Istanbul Café 78 Middle Eastern 2 Istanbul Palace 78 Middle Eastern 8 J. Alexander’s 58 Upscale Casual 3 J. Graham’s Café 62 Cafés 1 J. Gumbo’s 78 Cajun/Creole 1,2,5,6,10,13 J. Harrods 58 Upscale Casual 10 Jack Binion’s Steakhouse 56 Fine Dining 14 Jack Fry’s 58 Upscale Casual 2 Jack’s Lounge 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Jackson’s Seafood 62 Seafood 14 Jade Palace 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Jane’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 4 Jasmine 73 Asian/Chinese 5 Jason’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5 Java Brewing Co. 81 Coffee/Tea House 1,2,5,7,10 Jazzyblu 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 1 Jersey Mike’s Subs 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Jersey’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 15 Jimbo’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 13 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 70 Sandwich/Deli 1,2,3,5,6,14,15 Joe Davola’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Joe Huber Restaurant 68 Entertainment Dining 14 Joe’s Crab Shack 62 Seafood 1 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 78 Cajun/Creole 6 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 64 Casual Dining 5 John E’s 58 Upscale Casual 4 John O’Bryan’s Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 12 Johnny V’s 68 Pizza 6 Jucy’s Smokehouse 71 Barbecue 5 Jumbo Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 6 Kansai Japanese Rest. 74 Asian/Japanese 15 Karem’s 65 Casual Dining 8 Kashmir Indian 77 Indian 2 Kayrouz Café 62 Cafés 3 Kern’s Korner 65 Casual Dining 2 King Wok 73 Asian/Chinese 3 Kingfish 62 Seafood 6, 7, 16 King’s Fried Chicken 66 Home Style/Southern 13 Kobe Japanese Steak 74 Asian/Japanese 16 Koreana II 75 Asian/Korean 13 KT’s 58 Upscale Casual 2 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 La Bamba 79 Mexican 2 La Bocca 76 European/Italian 14 La Bodega 77 European/Spanish 2 La Colombiana 77 European/Spanish 8 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 77 European/Italian 2 La Monarca 79 Mexican 11 La Que 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 La Rosita Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 14, 15 La Rosita Taqueria 79 Mexican 15 La Tapatia 79 Mexican 2, 13 Lancaster’s Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 14 Las Gorditas 79 Mexican 11 Lee’s Korean 75 Asian/Korean 13 Legend’s 65 Casual Dining 14 Lemongrass Café 75 Asian/Vietnamese 5 Lenny’s Sub Shop 70 Sandwich/Deli 4 Liang’s Café 73 Asian/Chinese 8 The Lighthouse 72 Bar & Grill 16 Lil’ Loafers Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 Lilly’s 56 Fine Dining 2 Limestone 56 Fine Dining 5 Ling Ling 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Little Caesar’s Pizza 68 Pizza 5, 6, 8, 11, 13, 14, 16 Little Chef 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 Little India Café 77 Indian 4 Liu’s Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Logan’s Roadhouse 63 Steakhouse 3, 12, 15 Lolitas Tacos Inc. 79 Mexican 13 Longhorn Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 Lonnie’s Taste Chicago 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Los Aztecas 79 Mexican 1, 5, 10 Lotsa Pasta 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Louisville Pizza Co. 68 Pizza 6 54 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

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Luigi’s 68 Pizza 1 Lunch Today 70 Sandwich/Deli 16 Lynn’s Paradise Café 65 Casual Dining 2 Ma Zerellas 68 Pizza 15 Mai’s Thai Restaurant 75 Asian/Thai 16 Maido Essential Japanese 74 Asian/Japanese 2 Main Eatery 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Main St. Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 1 Majihd’s St. Matthews 60 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Maker’s Mark Lounge 58 Upscale Casual 1 Manhattan Grill 65 Casual Dining 1 Mark’s Feed Store 71 Barbecue 2, 5, 12, 14 Martini Italian Bistro 77 European/Italian 8 Maxwell’s Bar & Grille 65 Casual Dining 6 Mayan Café 79 Mexican 1 McAlister’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli [8] The Melting Pot 58 Upscale Casual 6 Meridian Café 62 Cafés 3 Mexican Fiesta 79 Mexican 4 Mexico Tipico 79 Mexican 5, 12 Mexico Viejo 79 Mexican 2 Michael Murphy’s 72 Bar & Grill 1 Michele’s On Goss 58 Upscale Casual 13 Midori Japanese Restaurant 74 Asian/Japanese 5 Mikato Japanese Steakhouse 74 Asian/Japanese 3 Mike Linnig’s 62 Seafood 12 Mike’s Tavern 72 Bar & Grill 14 Mimi’s Café 65 Casual Dining 5 Ming’s Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 2 Miss C’s Kitchen & Pantry 66 Home Style/Southern 1, 2 Mitchell’s Fish Market 62 Seafood 8 Moe’s Southwest Grill 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3,6,8,11,15 Mojito Tapas Restaurant 77 European/Spanish 7 Molly Malone’s 76 European/Irish 2, 3 The Monkey Wrench 65 Casual Dining 2 Morris Deli & Catering 70 Sandwich/Deli 1, 2 Morton’s of Chicago 63 Steakhouse 1 Mozz Mozzarella Bar 56 Fine Dining 1 Mr. Gattis 68 Pizza 5, 12, 13, 15 Mr. Pollo 65 Casual Dining 4 Mrs. Potter’s Coffee 81 Coffee/Tea House 1 Mulligan’s Pub and Grill 65 Casual Dining 2 My Favorite Muffin 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 My Old KY Dinner Train 67 Entertainment Dining 13 My Patria 79 Mexican 5 The NA Exchange 60 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Naked Pizza 68 Pizza 3 Nancy’s Bagel Box 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Nancy’s Bagel Grounds 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Napa River Grill 58 Upscale Casual 5 Neil & Patty’s Fireside Grill 65 Casual Dining 14 New Albanian Brewing Co. 68 Pizza 14 New Albany Fish House 62 Seafood 14 New China 74 Asian/Chinese 5 New Direction Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 8 Nord’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 13 North End Café 58 Cafés 2 O’Charley’s 65 Casual Dining 3,6,8,13,12,15 O’Dolly’s 66 Home Style/Southern 13 O’Shea’s Irish Pub 76 European/Irish 2 The Oakroom 56 Fine Dining 1 Oasis Japanese Restaurant 74 Asian/Japanese 13 Oishii Sushi 74 Asian/Japanese 2 Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza 68 Pizza 6 Old Louisville Coffee House 81 Coffee/Tea House 13 Old Spaghetti Factory 77 European/Italian 1 Old Stone Inn 58 Upscale Casual 5 Ole Hickory Pit BBQ 71 Barbecue 11 The Olive Garden 77 European/Italian 6,8,11,15 Ollie’s Trolley 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Onion Restaurant & Tea House 74 Asian/Chinese 14 Ooh La La Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 6 Orders Up Café & Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 5 Oriental House 74 Asian/Chinese 3 Oriental Star 74 Asian/Chinese 13 Original Impellizzeri’s 68 Pizza 1, 2, 10 Osaka Sushi Bar 74 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Otto’s Café 65 Casual Dining 1 Our Best Restaurant 66 Home Style/Southern 11,13,16 Outback Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 13, 15 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 58 Upscale Casual 5 Palermo Viejo 77 European/Spanish 2 Panda Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 10 Panera Bread Co. 70 Sandwich/Deli 1,5,6,7,8,13,15 Papa John’s 69 Pizza [30] Papa Murphy’s Pizza 69 Pizza 3,4,5,8,11,12,14,15,16 Papa’s Grilled Chicken 66 Home Style/Southern 1 Papalinos 69 Pizza 2 Passtime Fish House 62 Seafood 6 Pat’s Steak House 64 Steakhouse 2 Patrick O’Shea’s 76 European/Irish 1 Patticakes & Pies Café 62 Cafés 14 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 5, 7 Paula Deen Buffet 65 Casual Dining 14 Peking City Bistro 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Penn Station 70 Sandwich/Deli [17] Peppers Bar and Grill 65 Casual Dining 1 Perfetto Pizza 69 Pizza 6 Perkfection 81 Coffee/Tea House 16 Pesto’s Italian 77 European/Italian 1 Petra Mediterranean 78 Middle Eastern 4 Pho Binh Minh 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 Cafeterias 5, 6 The Pie Pantry 81 Desserts/Bakery 12

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Pina Fiesta Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 12 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 71 Barbecue 5 Pita Delights 78 Middle Eastern 1 Pita Hut 78 Middle Eastern 2 Pita Pit 78 Middle Eastern 6 Pizza By The Guy 69 Pizza 5 Pizza King 69 Pizza 14, 16 Pizza Place 69 Pizza 4 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Police Donuts 81 Desserts/Bakery 5 Ponderosa Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 13 Porcini 77 European/Italian 2 Proof On Main 58 Upscale Casual 1 Pub Louisville 65 Casual Dining 1 Puccini’s Smiling Teeth 69 Pizza 3 Puerto Vallarta 79 Mexican 11, 14, 16 Qdoba Mexican Grill 79 Mexican [11] Queen of Sheba 72 African 4 Queenie’s Soul Cuisine 66 Home Style/Southern 4 Queue Café 62 Cafés 1 Quick Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Quill’s Coffee Shop 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 Quizno’s Subs 70 Sandwich/Deli [10] Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Casual Dining 3, 8 Ramsi’s Café 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hog Tapas 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Red Hot Roasters 81 Coffee/Tea House 1, 2 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 65 Casual Dining 3, 8 Red Star Tavern 58 Upscale Casual 1 Red Sun Chinese 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Red’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Ri Ra Irish Pub 76 European/Irish 1 Rite Way Bar-B-Cue House 71 Barbecue 1 River City Winery 61 Bistro/Contemporary 5, 14 Riverbend Winery 58 Upscale Casual 1 Rivue 56 Fine Dining 1 Rocky’s Sub Pub 69 Pizza 16 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 77 European/Italian 5 Roosters 65 Casual Dining 12, 13 Rootie’s Sports Bar & Grille 72 Bar & Grill 8 Rosticeria Luna 79 Mexican 13 Royal Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 11, 13 Rubbie’s Southside Grill & Bar 71 Barbecue 13 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Mexican 15 Ruby Tuesday 65 Casual Dining 6, 15 The Rudyard Kipling 65 Casual Dining 1 Rumball’s Family Sports Bar 72 Bar & Grill 8, 12 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 62 Seafood 5 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 3 Ryan’s Steakhouse 64 Steakhouse 11 Saffron’s 78 Middle Eastern 1 Safier Mediterranean Deli 78 Middle Eastern 1 Saigon Café 75 Asian/Vietnamese 3 Saint’s 72 Bar & Grill 3 Sake Blue Japanese Bistro 74 Asian/Japanese 11 Sakura Blue 74 Asian/Japanese 3 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Sam’s Food & Spirits 65 Casual Dining 14 Santa Fe Grill 79 Mexican 13 Sapporo Japanese Grill 74 Asian/Japanese 1, 2 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 74 Asian/Filipino 2 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 8 Scotty’s Ribs 71 Barbecue 5 Selena’s at Willow Lake Tavern 78 Cajun/Creole 5 Senor Iguana’s 79 Mexican 5, 13, 15 Sergios World Beers 72 Bar & Grill 2 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 56 Fine Dining 2 Shack In The Back BBQ 71 Barbecue 13 Shady Lane Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 7 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Asian/Chinese 6, 13 Shalimar Indian 77 Indian 6 Shane’s Rib Shack 71 Barbecue 7 Shanghai Restaurant 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Sharom’s 63 Seafood 11 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 76 European/Irish 2, 4 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2, 5, 7, 13 Shirley Mae’s Café 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Shogun 74 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Shoney’s 65 Casual Dining 2, 13 Sichuan Garden 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Sicilian Pizza & Pasta 69 Pizza 1 Simply Splendid Salads 66 Casual Dining 5 Simply Thai 75 Asian/Thai 3 Sir Dano’s Pizza Parlor 69 Pizza 15 Sister Bean’s 81 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sitar Indian Restaurant 77 Indian 2 Skyline Chili 66 Casual Dining 2, 3, 6, 12 Slammer’s Sports Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 12 Smokehouse BBQ 71 Barbecue 11 Smoketown USA 71 Barbecue 1 Smokey Bones BBQ 71 Barbecue 6 Snappy Tomato 69 Pizza 8 Sol Aztecas 79 Mexican 1, 2 Sonny’s Island Grill 72 Bar & Grill 16 Sonoma Coffee Café 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 Soupy’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 4 Spaghetti Shop 77 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 69 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Sporting News Grill 72 Bar & Grill 13 The Sports & Social Club 72 Bar & Grill 1 Spring St. Bar & Grill 72 Bar & Grill 2 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 63 Seafood 3 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee/Tea House [35] Starving Artist Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 5

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RESTAURANT

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Staxx Roadhouse & BBQ 64 Steakhouse 5 Steak N Shake 66 Casual Dining4,6,8,13,12,15 Steinert’s 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stevie B’s Burgers & More 66 Casual Dining 15 Stevens & Stevens 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 77 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 64 Steakhouse 8 Stop Lite Café 62 Cafés 1 Studio Pizza 69 Pizza 15 Stumler Restaurant 68 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 71 Sandwich/Deli 13 Sugar & Spice Donut Shop 81 Desserts/Bakery 11 Sully’s Saloon 72 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee/Tea House 13 Sweet Stuff Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 14 Sweet Surrender 62 Cafés 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Sweet-Tee’s 67 Home Style/Southern 13 Taco Tico 80 Mexican 12, 13, 14 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 13 Taj Palace 78 Indian 8 TanThai Restaurant 75 Asian/Thai 14 Tazza Mia 81 Coffee/Tea House 6 TC’s Sandwich Shoppe 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Tea Station Chinese Bistro 74 Asian/Chinese 8 The Tequila Factory 80 Mexican 2 Texas Roadhouse 64 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 Texicans BBQ Pit 71 Barbecue 7 TGI Friday’s 66 Casual Dining 1, 6 Thai Café 75 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Orchids 75 Asian/Thai 6 Thai Siam 75 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 75 Asian/Thai 13 Thai Taste 75 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 72 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 The Café 62 Cafés 1 The Cheddar Box 62 Cafés 3 The Lunch Pail 62 Cafés 13 Theater Square Marketplace 61 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Third Avenue Café 62 Cafés 1 Thornberry’s Deli & Pies 71 Sandwich/Deli 13 Tiffany Cellar Café 62 Cafés 5 Tilted Kilt 66 Casual Dining 3 Toast On Market 66 Casual Dining 1, 14 Tokyo Japanese 74 Asian/Japanese 7 Tommy Lancaster’s Rest. 66 Casual Dining 14 Toni’s More Than Pizza 69 Pizza 13 Trailside Café 81 Coffee/Tea House 5 Trellis Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 1 True Thai 75 Asian/Thai 11 Tucker’s 66 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4,6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Tuscany Italian Restaurant 77 European/Italian 13 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 66 Casual Dining 2 Umai Zushi Buffet 74 Asian/Chinese 8 Uptown Café 59 Upscale Casual 7 Varanese 59 Upscale Casual 2 Verbana Café 62 Cafés 8 Vic’s Café 72 Bar & Grill 14 Vietnam Kitchen 75 Asian/Vietnamese 13 Village Anchor Pub & Roost 61 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Vince Staten’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 57 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizza 69 Pizza 13 Volare 77 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 71 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 67 Home Style/Southern 13 Wall Street Deli 71 Sandwich/Deli 1 Wasabiya Japanese Rest. 74 Asian/Japanese 2 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 66 Casual Dining 10 Whitney’s Diner 62 Cafés 4 Wick’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 5, 6, 8, 14 Wild Eggs 62 Cafés 3, 5 Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion 74 Asian/Japanese 2 Wiltshire On Market 59 Upscale Casual 1 Windy City Pizzeria 69 Pizza 13 The Wing Zone 66 Casual Dining 13 Winston’s 57 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 74 Asian/Chinese 1 Wolfgang Puck Express 62 Cafés 1 Wonton Express 74 Asian/Chinese 4 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 59 Upscale Casual 1 Yafa Café 62 Cafés 1 Yang Kee Noodle 74 Asian/Chinese 5 Yellow Cactus 80 Mexican 14 Yen Ching 74 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 74 Asian/Chinese 15, 16 Yummy Wok 74 Asian/Chinese 6 Za’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2 Zanzabar 72 Bar & Grill 13 Zaxby’s 66 Casual Dining 16 Zaytun Mediterranean Grill 78 Middle Eastern 2 Zen Garden 75 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Zen Tea House 81 Coffee/Tea House 2 Zeppelin Café 62 Cafés 13 Zivio 62 Cafés 1 Zoe’s Kitchen 78 Middle Eastern 1, 8 Z’s Fusion 57 Fine Dining 1 Z’s Oyster Bar 57 Fine Dining 5

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GUIDE KEY Average Entrée Price:

$$ = under $8 $$$$ = $15-$20 $$ = $9-$14 $$$$ = $21 & up

RED = ADVERTISER

p = FULL BAR

h = LATE NIGHT

OPEN PAST 10 P.M.

✿ = VEGETARIAN f = OUTDOOR MENU ITEMS DINING AVAILABLE LIVE e = MUSIC  = MENU ON-LINE ONLY ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise). All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812.

211 CLOVER LANE RESTAURANT 211 Clover Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andrew Smith has added a 1300 bottle wine cellar and private dining room to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine from long time Chef Troy Schuster. This stylish spot in St. Matthews continues to rank among the city’s top tables. $$$$ p f ✿ 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia Ave., 636-0783. Chef Edward Lee’s creative international prix fixe menu has kept this elegantly comfortable Old Louisville restaurant a top table for more than 25 years. His monthly family style pasta and bistro dinners across the street in the Wine Studio give diners a way to appreciate his skills at a lower price point. $$$$ p f ✿

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BUCK’S 425 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-5284. Elegant but not overstated, this fine dining room in the Mayflower Apartments has been quietly serving high-style lunches and dinners for over two decades. Former namesake and house manager Buck Heath recently retired, but the high quality of food and service remains. $$$ p f e ✿ CORBETT’S ‘AN AMERICAN PLACE’ 5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd., 327-5058. Dean Corbett, longtime fixture on the Louisville dining scene, went all-out with his East End destination. Housed in the stunning former Von Allmen mansion, Corbett’s kitchen is state of the art, the dining room amenities include a chef’s table with closed circuit TV connection to the kitchen, and his menu has been earning raves. Worth the trip and the price. $$$$ p f ENGLISH GRILL 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. This landmark, formal dining room is firing on all cylinders under Chef Laurent Geroli, who brings an international sophistication to the menu, and a wider exploration of cuisines with occasional special wine dinners. We recommend booking the chef’s table for an especially memorable evening. $$$ p ✿ JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Housed in the Horseshoe Casino, Jack Binion’s, a stylish, upscale place, is no gamble for hearty dining. A traditional steakhouse, but one that aims high: top quality meat, impeccable service, a high-roller’s ambience. $$$$ p h LILLY’S 1147 Bardstown Rd., 451-0447. A Louisville institution approaching its quarter-century mark, Lilly’s, under much heralded owner-chef Kathy Cary, continues to be as fresh as the locally-sourced foods she features on her Kentucky-accented menus. Her frequent special wine dinners are among the more affordable and creative in the area. $$$$ p e ✿ LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. Chef Jim Gerhardt and former partner Michael Cunha have

RED = ADVERTISER

established a stylish and elegant dining experience in the East End. Cunha’s friendly departure to train the next generation of chefs at Sullivan leaves the kitchen in Gerhardt’s capable hands. $$$$ p ✿ MOZZ MOZZARELLA BAR & ENOTECA 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. An ambitious idea from Matthew Antonovich and Michael Cooper, alumni of Casa Grasanti’s, resurrecting the old Primo space in the Cobalt building on the edge of NuLu. Fresh mozzarella is made on the hour as patrons watch, an antipasto bar offers more than 100 varieties of vegetables, meats and cheeses and the upscale enoteca section will emphasize “rustic earth-totable eating.” $$$ p e h ✿ THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-3200. Executive Chef Jim Gerhardt (who also operates Limestone in the East End) and his chef de cuisine Bobby Benjamin continue to make the Oakroom worthy of its AAA five-diamond designation. The menu is refined but lively, melding local produce and specialty items like spoonfish caviar with classic continental cuisine. $$$$ p ✿ RIVUE 140 N. Fourth St., (Galt House Hotel) 568-4239. You can still get a revolving view of the city in this upscale dining room. But a major makeover in 2007 has completely transformed the dark old Flagship Room into a sleek black and white modern fantasy right out of an old Fred Astaire movie. $$$ p h ✿ SEVICHE A LATIN RESTAURANT 1538 Bardstown Rd., 473-8560. Featured on the menu is seviche, the Latino seafood dish “cooked” in tart citrus juices, but Chef Anthony Lamas’ menu offers a broad, eclectic range of Latin American dishes. Nationally noted in many food magazines, Lamas has exposed diners to the cooking traditions of the Americas with his always interesting Gusto Latino wine dinners, another fine value in the dining scene. $$$$ p f h ✿

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VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. Known for its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, Vincenzo’s continues to hold its own against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p e h ✿ WINSTON’S RESTAURANT 3101 Bardstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Higher education meets higher cuisine at this elegant oncampus restaurant staffed by Sullivan culinary arts students. But this is no college lab; it’s an attractive and stylish restaurant. Chef John Castro runs the staff through its paces guaranteeing that while students are learning their craft, your dinner will ace the test. Open Fri. - Sun. only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S FUSION 115 S. Fourth St., 855-8000. Consummate restaurateur Mehrzad Sharbaiani (Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse) spent $2 million to remake this 10,500 square foot space into a cool, sophisticated oasis. The menu’s ingenious and delicious take on fusion cooking and the excellent service make this an exceptional dining experience at surprisingly reasonable prices. $$$$ p ✿ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE 101 Whittington Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich environs outside the Watterson. Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

60 WEST BISTRO & MARTINI BAR 3939 Shelbyville Rd., 719-9717. 60 West combines a comfortable dining room with a large, friendly bar offering an imposing list of martinis and martini-style cocktails. The menu offers fairly priced Contemporary American bistro fare. $$ p f e ✿

732 SOCIAL 732 E. Market St., 583-6882. Since chef-owner Jayson Lewellyn opened the doors of his sleek, intimate spot in the midst of the NuLu art district, crowds have flowed in, both for the innovative small plates, always-changing menu, and the creative bartenders who practice the art of preProhibition cocktail crafting. Dishes are designed to be shared, so be sure to bring a convivial and hungry group. $$$ p f ✿ ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Fifteen years ago Chef Peng Looi introduced Louisville diners to panAsian Pacific Rim fusion cuisine. In his sophisticated, multi-level, Bardstown Road restaurant he continues to offer clean, simple, elegant dishes that present often startling flavor combinations. His wok-seared salmon has long been a local favorite. $$$ p f h ✿ AUSTIN’S 4950 U.S. 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban watering hole taps the same vein as the national franchise booze ’n’ beef genre, and does so well, offering satisfying dining at a fair price. $$ p ✿ AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. With a new look and a refocusing of the menu on upscale value dining, Avalon has once again found its direction. We always try to sit on the three-season patio, one of the best in the city. $$$ p f ✿ THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. (See listing under Entertainment Dining.) BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. Chef Michael Ton brought a new style of Asian fusion cuisine to Louisville, playing entertaining riffs off Vietnamese cooking, with daring choices like caramelized catfish claypot and tamarind-sriracha gelato. $$$ p BLACKSTONE GRILLE 9521 U.S. 42, Prospect, KY, 228-6962. Longtime restaurateur Rick Dissell, formerly of Rick’s Ferrari Grille, continues to please his many fans at his latest restaurant in the Prospect Center. The menu offers sandwiches and

an array of bistro entrées — pasta, seafood, beef and chicken, including Rick’s fried chicken livers and “light” fried chicken. $$$ p f ✿ THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. (See listing under Bistro/Contemporary.) BLU ITALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 627-5045. BLU offers upscale Italian Mediterranean cuisine in striking surroundings highlighted by Mexican limestone and Italian marble. For those seeking a relaxing libation and a quicker snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p ✿ BRAVO! 206 Bullitt Ln. (Oxmoor Center), 326-0491. Management describes the Ohio-based Bravo! chain as “a fun, white-tablecloth casual eatery … positioned between the fine-dining and casual chains.” A Roman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjoyed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f ✿ BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 1321 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582-1995, 6051 Timber Ridge Dr., 292-2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-1995. A cornerstone of Louisville’s restaurant Renaissance, The Bristol started three decades ago on Bardstown Road. Now with six venues around town, diners can always find dependable pub grub, eclectic entrées, and evergreen standards like the green-chile won tons and the Bristol Burger. F&D columnist Scott Harper has crafted an exceptional wine selection. $$ p f ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. Sammy Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, also pleases downtown diners with this stylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel. Eat at the sushi bar, choose a comfortable table or reserve the traditional Japanese-style Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p h ✿

“ How did I get so luck y? ”

“ You mean me? Or the desser t? ”

Louisville • 502-491-3125 Lexington • 859-254-6358

Reservations recommended. Fondue coast to coast. Locally owned and operated. meltingpot.com

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

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THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3933. “Cheesecake” is its name, and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choices to eat in or take out. It’s more than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar service. $$ p h ✿ CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119. There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p ✿ EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. With the newish Corbett’s in the East End hitting on all cylinders, veteran Chef Dean Corbett has returned to his flagship St. Matthews restaurant, redesigning the room for a more casual atmosphere, and refocusing the menu on comfort foods, with no entrée over $19. Though the prices are lower, we don’t expect the quality of fare to follow suit. $$$ p ✿ HAWKSVIEW GALLERY AND CAFÉ 170 Carter Ave., Shephardsville, KY, 955-1010. In this “American bistro with a Southern twist,” diners eat amidst a gallery of hand-crafted glass art. Daily specials are inspired by world cuisines and the “confectionary artist” creates sweets like Linzer tortes and extreme

turtle cheesecake. Watch glass being blown as you dine. $$$ INTERMEZZO CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584-1265. The elegant restaurant space in Actor’s Theatre of Louisville’s historic building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e ✿ J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2206. This comfortably upscale venue, a Nashville-based chain, features “contemporary American” fare with a broad menu that ranges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f ✿ J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper River Rd., 228-4555. J. Harrod’s is discreetly tasteful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bistro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p ✿ JACK FRY’S 1007 Bardstown Rd., 452-9244. Good times or bad, weeknights or weekends, this Louisville institution — the remnant of a 1930s saloon — is always crowded and buzzing. Stephanie Meeks has taken over from long-time owner Susan Seiler, but the upscale bistro fare, like shrimp and grits and spicy fried oysters, is as good as ever. $$$$ p e h ✿

JOHN E’S 3708 Bardstown Rd., 456-1111. Owner John Shanchuck caters to the horseracing crowd. Thirty years of framed Derby programs and winning tickets line the walls. But you don’t have to place a bet to enjoy this rambling Buechel restaurant. The Porterhouse steak tastes good in the Bob Baffert Room whether or not your horse came in. $$$$ p e ✿ KT’S 2300 Lexington Rd., 458-8888. It’s hard to argue with success, and KT’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f h ✿ MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE 446 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 568-9009. Kentucky’s Maker’s Mark Distillery lends its name and its signature red-wax image to this stylish restaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magisterial bar features more than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f h ✿ MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125. This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p ✿ MICHELE’S ON GOSS 946 Goss Ave., 409-5909. Michele Brinke has taken over the space in the Goss Avenue Antique Mall that used to be Olivia’s. The large, airy space will serve up lunch to mall browsers, and dinner as well. $ f ✿ NAPA RIVER GRILL 1211 Herr Ln., 893-0141. Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and fine California-focused wine collection can be found in the stylish new quarters of this popular, decade-old East End restaurant. With an expanded menu serving both lunch and dinner, it’s now anchoring Westport Village center, a trendy new hangout. $$$ p f h ✿ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770. Known for their hearty and interesting breakfast choices, The North End also satisfies diners at lunch and dinner. With an eclectic menu of diverse tapas and interesting entrées, it’s an appealing, affordable place to dine $$$ f h ✿ OLD STONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpsonville, KY, (502) 722-8200. For many years diners have happily driven out to Simpsonville to enjoy both the historic building and the traditional Kentucky menu of this dining institution. Those in the know order the fried chicken and country ham. $$$ p f e ✿ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO 9120 Shelbyville Rd., 327-7707. This Arizona-based, Chinese themed restaurant offers a loud, happy scene with Chinesestyle dishes. To its credit, everything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p h ✿ PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 217-6360. Seasoned executive chef Michael Paley’s everchanging creative menu continues to make Proof a destination dining spot, the culinary equal of the quirky 21c Museum Hotel which has garnered national notice. Mediterranean in focus, with a commitment to using local products as much as possible, the adventurous dishes (grilled octopus, bison burgers, beef marrow, sea salt caramel gelato) are made with the freshest ingredients. $$$ p ✿ RED STAR TAVERN 450 S. Fourth St., 568-5656. Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American tavern,” this chain operation in Fourth Street Live features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmosphere that’s upscale and clubby, with an extensive bar as a key part of the action. $$$ p f h RIVERBEND WINERY 120 S. Tenth St., 540-5650, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 245-1478. Watch the winemakers in action, crafting 20 varieties of wine from Kentucky-grown grapes, as you enjoy lunch or dinner in this upscale casual eatery just west of downtown. Weekly chefs dinners with wine

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pairings at reasonable prices. A second location in the East End expands the audience for their locally-crafted wines and food.$$ p e ✿ UPTOWN CAFÉ 1624 Bardstown Rd., 458-4212. Anchoring a hot corner in the Highlands for two decades now, the Uptown continues to be a popular lunch and dining destination, with its excellent bistro fare, and always appealing dessert selections. $$ p f ✿ VARANESE 2106 Frankfort Ave., 899-9904. Chef John Varanese has made even old-timers forget that this stylish venue was once a gas station. With a slate interior waterfall and a front wall that folds open in good weather, the dining room is as interesting as the lively, international seasonal menu. Live jazz, contemporary art and urban style complete the mood. $$$ p f e ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. (See review under European/Italian.) WILTSHIRE ON MARKET 636 E. Market St., 5895224. Understated elegance and creative dishes characterize this NuLu restaurant. Owner Susan Hershberg set the benchmark for fine catering in Louisville with Wiltshire Pantry, which she continues here with her finely crafted small plates menu that changes weekly to showcase the best seasonal ingredients. Open Thur. - Sat. only. Reservations suggested. $$ f ✿ YACHING’S EAST WEST CUISINE 105 S. Fourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of East and West, sufficient to give just about everyone something to enjoy, regardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p ✿

ARTESIA FUSION BISTRO 133 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 426-9191. Boasting an eclectic menu made from organic, seasonal and locally-grown ingredients, this New Albany lunch spot offers andouille-stuffed jalapenos, jerk chicken skewers, salads, falafel and gyros, croque monsieurs, and burgers made from hormone-free beef. $$ ✿ ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 Corporate Campus Dr. (Embassy Suites), 426-9191. An eclectic bistro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular crab cakes and array of pasta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie. $$ p ✿ BAXTER STATION BAR & GRILL 1201 Payne St., 5841635. The corner bar with the railroad theme is also an ambitious restaurant, known for surprises like Cajun linguini with andouille sausage, homemade desserts (from pastry chef Amy Berry) and lunchtime “steam table” plates. Take particular note of an impressive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f ✿ BISTRO 301 301 W. Market St., 584-8337. Quality contemporary American cuisine in a stylish environment makes Bistro 301 a reasonable alternative when you’re looking for upscale-casual dining downtown. $$$ p f ✿ BISTRO LE RELAIS 2817 Taylorsville Rd. (Bowman Field), 451-9020. This art deco spot makes stylish use of an historic 1920s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine. After a long run as a fine dining establishment, owner Anthony Dike has recently reinvented his restaurant as a bistro, sparked by the arrival of new chef Bill Lynch. $$$$ p f e ✿ THE BLIND PIG 1076 E. Washington St., 618-0600. A popular hangout since its opening earlier this year, this Euro-style gastropub features French country cooking and house-made sausages and charcuterie in a casual but sophisticated atmosphere in a late19th century building in Butchertown. $$ p e h ✿

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BOURBONS BISTRO 2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838. It’s a comfortably upscale-casual restaurant, featuring the works of French-trained chef Michael Crouch. No, it’s a great bar, with what must be the world’s most comprehensive Bourbon list. Actually, this Crescent Hill favorite is both, and the bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. Don’t miss the duck confit strudel appetizer. $$$ p f ✿

work of classically trained owner-chefs Dominic Serratore and Frank Yang. Sure, take note of the fanciful artwork adorning the exposed brick walls and the gargoyles in the ceiling. But don’t overlook Serratore’s “gourmet casual” menu of New England crab cakes, fanciful salads and Sunday brunch egg dishes. $$ p h ✿

BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Grange Rd., 243-1120. The use of an exceptionally obscure wine term (it’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe grapes at harvest) hints that the proprietors of this wine bar know their vino. Interesting wines and a short bistro-style menu make it a welcome suburban alternative. $$ h e

HAMMERHEADS 921 Swan St., 365-1112. Two veterans of the upscale kitchens along Bardstown Road have taken over the old Swan Dive space, and patrons of the previous vegan haunt are quickly becoming fans. Vegetarian selections such as crispy mushroom medley and veggie tacos join interesting oddities like duck sliders and bacon plantain croquetas. Also pulled pork and brisket, crab cakes, and a reasonable beer selection. $ h ✿

BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St., 515-0174. Brewmaster Brian Reymiller crafts a lovely range of beers and ales, and the upscale, inventive “tavern fare” menu created by chef Anoosh Shariat, who continues to oversee the operation, has returned Browning’s to a dependable, lively, pleasant venue in the popular Slugger Field. $$ p f ✿

HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Street Live, 568-2202. Louisville’s Fourth Street Live echoes with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs at the local branch of this popular shrine to rock. The music scene is the draw, but you’ll have no complaints about Hard Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e h ✿

CAFÉ LOU LOU 106 Sears Ave, 893-7776, 2216 Dundee Rd., 459-9566. This popular spot wins critical raves and packs in crowds. Owner-Chef Clay Wallace is comfortable with his international bill of fare and laissez les bon temps rouler mood. A second location in the Douglass Loop, is drawing equally-pleased crowds. $$ p ✿

HILLBILLY TEA 120 S. First St., 587-7350. It’s a breakfast place, with hearty egg dishes, bison sausage patties, tofu scramble and potato bake casserole. It’s a tea café, with choice of black, green, herbal or rare teas. It’s a lunch and dinner spot, with unusual offerings: sorrel and potato soup, roadkill stew (made with game), smoked catfish, frog legs, barley salad with summer squash and tea egg, moonshine pork, pine-smoked bison, and a long list of desserts. It’s an unusual place downtown that immediately started pulling in fans. $ ✿

DISH ON MARKET 434 W. Market St., 315-0669. Former Asiatique bar manager, Anderson Grissom, has stepped into the venerable lawyers’ lunch space on Market Street, renovating the kitchen and some interior space of the old Delta Restaurant into a somewhat upscale spot now open breakfast through dinner. $ p ✿ DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-9129. This informally whimsical Highlands space masks the

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HOLY GRALE 1034 Bardstown Rd. The owners of the Louisville Beer Store have converted a former church to a beer pub and restaurant. Twenty taps offer a rotating choice of international brews, and

RED = ADVERTISER

an eclectic menu offers Belgian fritjes, pretzels and beer cheese, tacos and crostini. $ h ✿ JACK’S LOUNGE 122 Sears Ave., 897-9026. A sophisticated, elegant bar associated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but excellent menu featuring appetizers and light bites, along with a drinks list beyond reproach. $ p h ✿ JAZZYBLU 815 W. Market St., 992-3243. The basement space at Glassworks that formerly housed The Jazz Factory is bopping again with regularly scheduled live jazz performances Thurs. - Sun. nights, and southern comfort food style lunch buffets Tues. - Fri. $ p e h ✿ L&N WINE BAR AND BISTRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If you’re enthusiastic about good wine, you’re going to be excited about L&N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 80 wines available by the glass. Comfortable atmosphere and excellent bistro fare with a creative twist from Chef Rick Adams add to the draw. $$ p f h ✿ MAJID’S ST. MATTHEWS 3930 Chenoweth Sq., 6182222. Majid Ghavami has sold Saffron’s downtown, to open a new venture in the St. Matthews location that formerly housed Rick’s, Five Points and a host of other ventures.The Mediterranean-American menu offers Saffron’s fan’s favorites such as the rack of lamb, salmon, duck and kebabs, as well as a new American menu The wine bar serves small plates, and focuses on American wines and an eclectic list from unusual locations — Lebanon, Israel, Greece and the Balkans. $$$ p f e ✿ THE NA EXCHANGE 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN. 948-6501. In the kitchen of the new gastropub is Dave Clancy, who spearheaded the revival of downtown New Albany dining with the Bistro New Albany a few years back. His American bistro style food will be available from lunch to late night.

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Notable on the menu are bison dishes — burger, nachos (house-made chips with bison chili topping) and skirt steak. $$ p f h RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE WORLD 1293 Bardstown Rd., 451-0700. The beating bohemian heart of the Highlands. Ramsi Kamar brings a wonderfully eclectic spirit to the environment and to his menu. Cuban. Jamaican. Greek. Middle Eastern. Moderate prices, a new weekend brunch and late night hours add to the draw. $$ f e h ✿ RED HOG TAPAS 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. By day, it’s the Blue Dog Bakery and Café, but on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights it takes on its new identity as a tapas bar, featuring, among other dishes, the cured pork products that co-owner Bobby Hancock creates from his own red wattle hogs. A nice beer wine and spirits selection, to go with the fish flautas, catfish brandade and charcuterie. $$ p h ✿ RIVER CITY WINERY 321 Pearl St., New Albany, IN, 945-9463. The newest area winery, open since late spring. Several of owner Melissa Humphrey’s wines medaled in the June 2009 Indy International Wine Competition, and since summer has been offering a well-crafted appetizer style menu to pair with the wines. Don’t miss the crab cakes with black-eyed pea salsa. $$ e ✿ THEATER SQUARE MARKET PLACE 651 S. Fourth St., 625-3001. Dallas McGarity, formerly of Z’s Fusion, has taken over the reins in the kitchen of this elegant transformation of the old Kentucky Theater. Up front is a deli and gourmet grocery. Behind the circular bar is the serene dining room, with a central hearth, and beyond that, a large enclosed patio. McGarity’s new menu includes crawfish arancini, a BLT salad, salmon croquettes, duck confit ragout and curry-seared scallops. $$ p f h ✿ VILLAGE ANCHOR PUB & ROOST 11507 Park Rd., 708-1850. In the heart of Anchorage at the old

train station, this Euro-village inspired concept has two levels. The top (the Roost) will be a French bistro a la Moulin Rouge, with an outdoor terrace. Downstairs, at The Sea Hag, the ambience is a British pub. The hearty upscale comfort food style menu will be served lunch and dinner, with plans for weekend brunch. A short, well-selected wine list and ambitious beer list with over 50 craft and import choices, and 55 bourbons that will mark inclusion on the Urban Bourbon Trail. $$$ p f h ✿

ALLEY CAT CAFÉ 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6544. This suburban Alley Cat is a cozy and bright little place, and the lunch-only menu is affordable and appealing. $ ✿ THE ANCHORAGE CAFÉ 11505 Park Rd., 708-1880. This coffee bar and café in Anchorage offers Counter Culture coffees and a small but eclectic menu of sandwiches, paninis and salads. Serving breakfast and lunch, with daily specials. $ f ✿ AROMA CAFÉ Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Grab a bite before hitting the casino. Sandwiches, salads, sides, cold beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ h ✿ BLUE DOG BAKERY AND CAFÉ 2868 Frankfort Ave., 899-9800. Still a popular breakfast and lunch spot as well as an artisanal bakery, producing hearty European-style breads that can be found on restaurant tables and in better grocery stores around town. But on Thursday through Saturdays nights, owners Kit Garrett and Bobby Hancock have started tapas service, many small plates featuring pork cured by Hancock from his own heritage pigs (see the blurb at Red Hog Tapas). $$ p f ✿ BOOMER’S CAFÉ 722 W. Main St., 585-4356. In the midst of the booming West Main Street arts and museum district, this breakfast and lunch spot

h = LATE NIGHT ✿ = VEGETARIAN MENU ITEMS  = MENU AVAILABLE ON-LINE ONLY

offers standard American café fare, and serves breakfast on Saturdays. $ BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 1327 Bardstown Rd., 456-4500, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1474. This tasteful little spot that offers teas and lighter lunch fare in an attractive old-house setting on Bardstown Road has opened a second ladies’ lunch spot inside Dolfinger’s in St Matthews. $ f ✿ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Brownsboro Rd., 894-8929. Cuisine from around the world is featured at this East End neighborhood café, featuring homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ ✿ CAFÉ MONTAGU 1930 Bishops Ln., 451-6357. This breakfast and lunch place provides breakfasts and lunches mainly to the denizens of the Watterson Towers office complex. Home-style cooking, daily specials (meatloaf, pastas) and quick service keep the wheels of business rolling. $ ✿ CHEDDAR BOX CAFÉ 12121 Shelbyville Rd., 2452622. An attractive — and busy — Middletown lunch spot, owner Michelle Bartholmew serves popular salads, sandwiches and soups, as well as hot entrées such as potato-chip-crusted whitefish, specialty pizzas, and lemon-tarragon chicken with orzo. Pick up some frozen appetizers for your next cocktail party. $$ f ✿ CITY CAFÉ 505 W. Broadway, 589-1797, 1250 Bardstown Rd., 459-5600, 500 S. Preston St., 852-5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time star in the city’s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingredients to these simple, but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f ✿ CRAVE CAFÉ & CATERING 2250 Frankfort Ave., 896-1488. Experienced caterers and chefs offer casual but quality café fare in this comfortable old frame house in Clifton. $ ✿

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CREEKSIDE OUTPOST & CAFÉ 614 Hausfeldt Ln., New Albany IN, 948-9118. The Creekside Outpost warps customers back into the days of general stores and maintains every bit of old fashioned charm. Serving up buffalo, elk and surprisingly good burgers. Exotic foods including Shinnecock ice fish, black bear, ostrich and kangaroo (when available) round out an excellent, traveled menu. $$ f ✿ CRICKET’S CAFÉ 7613 Old Hwy. 60, Sellersburg, IN, 246-9339. Offering breakfasts and lunch to local Hoosiers and travelers who take exit 7 off I-65. Full breakfasts, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A full range of standard lunch sandwiches, with Reubens, Philly steak and cheese, and daily specials. Homemade soups and salads, too. $ f ✿ CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a restaurant? Well, it’s both. This informal spot will sell you a first-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike — or the whole darn bike! $ f ✿

serves an eclectic breakfast and lunch menu, including old favorites like tomato dill soup and chicken salad. And the new space retains the old place’s yard-sale look of mismatched furniture and chandeliers and doorways to nowhere. $ f THE CHEDDAR BOX 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. $f✿ THE LUNCH PAIL 502 E. Warnock St., 634-7116. Offering yet another quick and comforting lunch option near U of L, this family-owned spot features warming soups and filling sandwiches. Lunch is offered year-round, with a dinner menu added from April through September. $ f ✿ THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 5852233. With a menu featuring many vegetarian and vegan options, this pleasant neighborhood eatery attracts loyal crowds with excellent fare and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e ✿ TIFFANY CELLAR CAFÉ 11601 Main, 245-4411. $ f ✿

DERBY CAFÉ 704 Central Ave., (Kentucky Derby Museum) 634-0858. Lunch served year-round in the dining area adjacent to the Derby Museum with such regional favorites as meaty burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f ✿

VERBENA CAFÉ 10639 Meeting St., 426-0020. Norton Commons welcomes another eatery, a breakfast and lunch spot open early morning till mid-afternoon, serving breakfast and lunch at any of those hours. $$ f ✿

DOWNTOWN DINER & COFFEEHOUSE 506 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 725-8680. $

WHITNEY’S DINER 3061 Breckenridge Ln., 454-5955. For many years a Fern Creek landmark before a short move west, Whitney’s remains a comfortable spot for a casual, diner-style breakfast, lunch or dinner. We recommend the “Grandpa style roast beef.” $ ✿

ERMIN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1201 S. First St., 6356960, 723 S. Fourth St., 587-9390, 455 S. Fourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-7210. These popular bakeries attract crowds looking for an enjoyable soup and sandwich lunch highlighted by French-style breads and pastries. $ ✿ FLEUR DE LIS CAFÉ 1574 Bardstown Rd., 456-6566. Kyle and Jill Riggle bought the former Sweet ‘n’ Savory Café, and after a long winter and spring of renovation of the physical space and the concept of the restaurant, are now open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Look for an upgraded breakfast menu, and revamped lunch offerings crafted from locallysourced ingredients, and something new: a dinner menu with beer and wine. $$ p ✿ FUN FOOD CAFÉ 1860 Mellwood Ave., 895-1003. $ ✿ J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hotel), 583-1234. The home of the legendary “Hot Brown” sandwich, J. Graham’s offers a more casual bistro-style alter na tive to the upscale English Grill, with choice of menu service or buffet dining. $ f p KAYROUZ CAFÉ 127 Wiltshire Ave., 896-2630. Tucked in among St. Matthews sidestreets is one of the best sandwich places in Louisville. The tuna salad, Portobello mushroom Reuben, fish, chicken and hamburger — all are innovative and all come with some of the best fries in town. $ f ✿ MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian Ave., 897-9703. This little lunch spot occupies a cozy old house in St. Matthews. Service is competent and polite, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-style fare is consistently fine. A selection of appetizing breakfast items rounds out a tasty mix. $ f ✿ PATTICAKES & PIES CAFÉ 155 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 725-8510. In downtown New Albany, this little storefront café serves breakfast and lunch, makes hearty paninis and salads, and bakes up cakes, pies, muffins for takeout. $ ✿ QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ f ✿ STOP LITE CAFÉ 1348 River Rd., 584-3746. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1804 Frankfort Ave., 8992008. Sweet Surrender, with Jessica Haskell at the helm, has returned to its original Clifton neighborhood to provide elegant desserts as well as signature vegetarian lunches. $$ f THE CAFÉ 712 Brent St., 637-6869. Now well-settled in its new location just off East Broadway, The Café 62 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

WILD EGGS 3985 Dutchmans Ln., 893-8005, 1311 Herr Ln., 618-2866, 153 S. English Station Rd., 618-3449. Specialty omelets, the everything muffin, spicy egg salad sandwiches — these dishes and more have made Wild Eggs a wildly popular breakfast and lunch spot. Prized seats at weekend brunch can now be found at this growing minichain’s third outlet. $ p ✿ WOLFGANG PUCK EXPRESS 221 S. Fourth St., 562-0983. Bearing the name of the celebrity Austrian chef, this downtown lunch spot in the corner of the convention center offers tasty wraps, sandwiches and soups. $$ f YAFA CAFÉ 22 Theater Sq., 561-0222. $ f h ✿ ZEPPELIN CAFÉ 1036 E. Burnett St., 365-3551. $$ h ✿ ZIVIO 711 S. Third St., 561-3007. The owners of the ambitious little Highlands Italian eatery Le Gallo Rosso are expanding their reach downtown, but with a different concept. The name, among other possible translations, is Italian dialect for “Good Health and Prosperity,” an agreeable wish for anyone who joins them for lunch. The emphasis will be on an eclectic range of soups and sandwiches. $ ✿

AHOY FISH HUT 2902 Bardstown Rd., 451-5508. An upper Highlands outlet that has been delighting the neighborhood with fish tacos, fried and broiled cod, and homemade buttermilk pie. All dishes cooked to order — nothing hangs around under heat lamps. $ f ✿ BLUE LAGOON 2280 Bardstown Rd., 632-2583. The Sharom family, who operate Zaytun Mediterranean Grill and Sharom’s on the Outer Loop, has a new seafood place, on the site of the old Diamante’s. Hopes are high for an aquatic take on their falafel and hummus staples. $$ f h ✿ BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4124666. This franchise concept from the Floridabased Outback Steakhouse chain offers impressive seafood in a comfortable setting. Add Bonefish to your short list of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p ✿ CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 283-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville RED = ADVERTISER

Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple — fried fish and fried seafood, served on paper trays — but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ EAGLE LAKE & RESTAURANT 7208 Whipple Rd., 937-7658. If you like to fish, or if you like to eat fish, you’ll likely enjoy Eagle Lake, a simple, downhome eatery in Southwestern Jefferson County. Seafood is the specialty. Fishermen will enjoy their stocked pay-to-fish lake. Note though, it’s not possible to have your catch fried for dinner. $$ f THE FISH HOUSE 1310 Winter Ave., 568-2993. Louisville is as overflowing as a well-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signature of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHERY 3624 Lexington Rd., 895-1188, 11519 Shelbyville Rd., 409-4296. The original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that’s now awash with them, The Fishery remains justly popular for its quick, sizzling hot and affordable fish and seafood meals. $ f ✿ HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and easy to miss, but it’s worth the effort to get by. It’s oversized fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a varied menu is also available. $ f JACKSON’S SEAFOOD 400 W. Main St., New Albany, IN, 945-3474. Joe Jackson, 13-year veteran of locallyfamed Clarksville Seafood, serves up fried, broiled or blackened fish, and rolled oysters. Fans of Jackson’s former employer will find many similarities in the food, but offered with customer-friendly service and rational, predictable hours. $ JOE’S CRAB SHACK 131 River Rd., 568-1171. The setting on the edge of Riverfront Park is bright, noisy and fun, with a wraparound deck providing a panoramic river view. $$ p f KINGFISH RESTAURANT 3021 Upper River Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a family dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties — upper River Road and Riverside Drive — boast river views. $$ p f e MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 937-9888. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tasty fried fish and seafood at family prices since 1925 and remains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. Out of season — Nov. to Jan. — the family shutters the place and takes a nice vacation. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr., 412-1818. The decor of this upscale eatery evokes the feeling of a large fish market, with an open kitchen that offers views of chefs at work. Quality seafood and service have made Mitchell’s a popular destination. $$$ p f ✿ NEW ALBANY FISH HOUSE 2604 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN. 542-6488. In the former Cape Codder location, the most popular item at the New Albany Fish House is the fish box—fried cod, fries and hush puppies, but you can order your fish (including tuna) broiled or blackened as well. $ PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 2674633. If you are looking for an honest fish sandwich and a cold beer or two, with no frills, this southside tavern is just the ticket. Belly up, place your order, and be sure to have cash — no credit cards accepted here. $$ f e RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 245-0366. Visualize Hooter’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original Louisville home of the bucket-of-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f

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SHAROM’S 5637 Outer Loop, 968-8363. Family owned and family style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetizers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as frog legs, shrimp and alligator. $$ p STAN’S FISH SANDWICH 3723 Lexington Rd., 8966600. The fish is the thing at Stan’s, where the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perfectly prepared. Known for their fish sandwich, daily specials take advantage of fresh product. $ ✿ ] CAST IRON STEAKHOUSE 1207 E. Market St., Jeffersonville, IN, 590-2298. Curtis Rader of Buck’s is cooking steaks and sides in cast iron pans at his moderately-priced steakhouse, located in the old Rocky’s Sub Pub building across from Jeffboat. The ambience is upscale with “no peanuts on the floor, antlers on the wall or country music,” Rader promises. $$$ h DEL FRISCO’S 4107 Oechsli Ave., 897-7077. Loyal Louisville beefeaters continue to fill up this 28year-old St. Matthews steakhouse, with its brick walls and beamed ceilings. Any red meat enthusiast would know to order the filet or Porterhouse, but only regulars know the glories of something called green phunque. $$$$ p EDDIE MERLOT’S PRIME AGED BEEF 455 S. Fourth St., 584-3266. It will be hard to conjure up memories of the old Rodes clothing store in this sumptuous renovation of the space at the Fourth and Muhammad Ali corner of the Starks building, which has been turned into one of the largest dining spaces in town. The Ft. Wayne-based small chain with big ambitions boasts glittering mosaic artwork, a handsome bar opening onto Fourth Street, and luxurious seating in secluded nooks and corners. With its bright, arty interior and eclectic, upscale menu, Eddie Merlot’s looks to be a major player in downtown dining. $$$ p h JACK BINION’S STEAKHOUSE Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. (See listing under Fine Dining.) JEFF RUBY’S STEAKHOUSE 325 W. Main St., 5840102. This Cincinnati restaurateur has made an impact in Louisville with his outstanding steaks, glittery bar, urban vibe and top-notch service. The downtown setting doesn’t hurt either, on Waterfront Plaza at Main and Fourth, next to the Galt House. The rooms have Churchill Downs themes. The steaks take the rail with seafood and sushi coming up fast on the outside. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 8933884, 5229 Dixie Hwy., 448-0577, 970 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-9789. With more than 100 properties in 17 states, this Nashvillebased chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and steaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONGHORN STEAKHOUSE 2535 Hurstbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9700 Von Allmen Ct., 326-7500, 1210 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 284-5800. Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 626 W. Main St., 584-0421. This belowground temple to the red meat gods is elegant and masculine, full of wood paneling, brass rails and leather booths. Louisville reveres its home-grown restaurants but has welcomed this Chicago-based chain with open mouths. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 8954329, 6520 Signature Dr., 964-8383, 9498 Brownsboro Rd., 426-4329, 8101 Bardstown Rd., 231-2399, 1420 Park Place, Clarksville, IN, 283-4329. The name suggests Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pretty much familiar American, and the fare goes beyond just steak to take in chicken, seafood and pasta. $$$ p

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PAT’S STEAK HOUSE 2437 Brownsboro Rd., 8969234. A local favorite for fifty years and as traditional as a steakhouse gets, Pat Francis, like his father before him, cuts the meats himself. Its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Be sure to bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p f PONDEROSA STEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Preston Hwy., 964-6117. Family-style dining with the ranch theme kept alive with the open flame from the grills. An extensive buffet with hot and cold foods, salads and desserts is also available. $ ✿ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, Cohiba the best cigar and Ruth’s Chris the best restaurant. It serves an excellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY STEAKHOUSE 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088. This North Carolina-based chain offers family dining with good variety: Its diverse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $$ STAXX ROADHOUSE AND BBQ 9601 Shelbyville Rd., 425-9641. The new steak and BBQ joint at the corner of Shelbyville and Hurstbourne smokes brisket and ribs out back, and offers a covered, heated patio. They take their name from the method of stacking the meat while cooking as well as the old Stax Recording Studio in Memphis. $$ p f h STONEY RIVER LEGENDARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr., 429-8944. Stoney River in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’s first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big crowds with its memorable steaks and trimmings, with extra points for friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$$ p h TEXAS ROADHOUSE 757 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy. (Green Tree Mall), Clarksville, IN, 280-1103, 4406 Dixie Hwy. 448-0705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pkwy., 897-5005, 3322 Outer Loop, 962-7600. The spirit of the West sets the theme for this popular steak house. Salads, vegetables and breads with hearty side dishes round out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding — service at your table. $$ p

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 2809160, Jeffersonville, IN, 404 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-7770. A Nice Restaurant, billed as “New Albany’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice enough to have launched two more branches. All specialize in simple, down-home breakfast and lunch at affordable prices. $ APPLEBEE’S (6 locations) This cheery national chain features an eclectic assortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pasta as well as full bar service. It’s as consistent as a cookie cutter, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tastes run to mainstream American cuisine. $$ p h ASPEN CREEK RESTAURANT 8000 Bardstown Rd., 239-2200. The entrepreneur who created Texas Roadhouse and Buckhead’s is back with a concept that’s both old and new — a lodge-style restaurant that invokes the rustic feel of the Rockies, and offers a menu of pastas, burgers, and poultry at prices that aren’t mountain high. $$ p h ✿ B.J.’S RESTAURANT & BREWHOUSE 7900 Shelbyville Rd., 326-3850. This Southern California chain arrived east of the Mississippi, including a large and imposing brewhouse at Oxmoor Center. A full range of made-in-Nevada craft beers is dispensed, along with upscale-casual pub grub. $$ p h BLUE HORSE CAFÉ 830 Phillips Ln., (Crown Plaza Hotel) 367-2251. $$$ p h ✿ 64 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

BRICKHOUSE TAVERN & TAP 871 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 326-3182. The Brickhouse Girls, wearing tight black baby Ts and denim minis, serve typical bar food, beer and ale and cocktails, and encourage patrons to play beer pong. This has to be a winning corporate concept, don’t you think? $$ p h BUCKHEAD MOUNTAIN GRILL 3020 Bardstown Rd., 456-6680, 707 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919, 10206 Westport Rd., 339-0808. The deck of the riverfront location in Jeffersonville, with its view across the river, is a great place for a lazy summer meal, when the familiarity of all-American fare like meat loaf, pot pies, steak or ribs and a couple of cold ones is all you want. The big square bars in all three locations, with multiple TV screens, make for excellent sports viewing as well. New delivery and catering operations extends the brand beyond the three locations. $$ p f h ✿ BUNZ RESTAURANT 969 1/2 Baxter Ave., 632-1132. This little Highlands made-to-order gourmet hamburger shop concocts excellent quality burgers with a range of standard and oddball toppings. $ h CAFÉ ENVY 570 S. Fourth St., 569-0508. During the day, it’s a lunchspot in the center of busy 4th Street, serving up sandwiches, fried shrimp and catfish, ribs and salads. At night, it’s a lounge with a dance floor, catering to the “mature adult crowd” between the ages of 30 and 45. Entertainment provided by DJs and live acts, overseen by the owners of JazzyBlu in Glassworks. $$ p f e ✿ CAFÉ MAGNOLIA 140 N. Fourth St. (Galt House), 589-5200. The Galt House’s quick and casual secondfloor dining alternative, this spacious venue offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p ✿ CAPTAIN’S QUARTERS 5700 Captain’s Quarters Rd., 228-1651. One of the city’s most attractive eateries for atmosphere, Captain’s Quarters matches the beautiful setting with quality bistro-style fare that won’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e ✿ CARDINAL HALL OF FAME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots more Cardinal memorabilia. What? You want food too? Sure! Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p h CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr. (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 283-4411. Known by locals for its Saturday night buffet of New York strip, ribeye and prime rib. Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kidfriendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e ✿ CHEDDAR’S CASUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 3521 Outer Loop, 966-3345, 1385 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain draws big, hungry crowds with its large bar and familiar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p h ✿ CHILI’S 421 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888, 11600 Antonia Way, 301-8181, 9720 Von Allmen Ct., 301-8880. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including fajitas, burgers, sandwiches and veggies. $$ p ✿ CHOP SHOP SALADS 436 W. Market St., 589-2467, 126 Breckinridge Ln., 384-4252. The two-handed mezzalunas rock steady as the line cooks chop up lettuce, vegetables and meats into hearty salads or wraps. Mostly a to-go place with limited seating, the steady lunchtime crowds attest that office workers see a need for fresh light lunch fare. $ ✿ COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 5839165. Hurricane Katrina blew chef Richard Lowe into town, bringing from New Orleans his Cajun/ Creole/Caribbean magic to Coach Lamp’s kitchen.

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The restored 137-year-old building has a classic bar on one side and an upscale white-tablecloth dining room on the other side. $$$ f ✿ CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2001. When the trademark item is called a “ButterBurger” and frozen custard tops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare. Quality fast food and friendly service make this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. Fourth St., 587-0526, 6301 Upper River Rd., 228-3625. Carrying on into its third century in modern quarters that capture much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a second eatery on Harrods Creek. $ f EDESIA GARDENS 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 2637100. Named after the Roman goddess of gourmet foods, this banquet and events space also offers a Sunday brunch buffet to the public. Special brunches also served on holidays such as Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, Easter, Mother’s Day. $$ ✿ FIVE GUYS BURGERS & FRIES 2221 State Street, New Albany, IN, 944-9958, 4320 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-7370, 4116 Summit Plaza Dr., 426-1702. Based in Virginia, this burger chain invokes the early days of fast food with freshlygrilled burgers, big, smoky Kosher dogs, enough condiments to satisfy any craving, fresh-cut fries that are out of this world and a cheery rock’n’ roll sensibility. $ h GARY’S ON SPRING 204 Spring St., 584-5533. Harold Baker, formerly chef at Westport General Store, is at the helm of this new Irish Hill upscale casual spot. His menu features appetizers such as a baby Hot Brown and chicken fritters with red chili sauce, a buffalo mozzarella salad, bison burgers, oyster po’ boy sandwiches, bison ribeye, Bourbon Street scallops and eggplant napoleon. $$$ p f h ✿ GAVI’S RESTAURANT 222 S. Seventh St., 583-8183. This family-owned eatery has been around for decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Russian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Stroganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ ✿ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Creek Diner offers old-fashioned comfort food, as the name “diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet taste to the down-home eats. $ HOME RUN BURGERS & FRIES 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 409-7004, 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 365-3388, 12949 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8403. Burgers, dogs and fries and drinks with a baseball theme highlight this suburban spot, and more than 20 toppings offer you a fielder’s choice of options to dress your burger. $ f ✿ HOOTERS 4120 Dutchmans Ln., 895-7100, 4948 Dixie Hwy., 449-4194, 7701 Preston Hwy., 968-1606, 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9485, 941 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., 131, Clarksville, IN 284-9464. Hooter’s may draw crowds with its longstanding reputation as a party scene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and, of course, wings. $ p f e h INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF PANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 285-1772, 1401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 618-2250. The familiar IHOP franchise across the river has now been joined by another outlet along the franchise restaurant row on Hurstbourne. $ h ✿ JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 426-2074. Going strong after many years in this Lyndon location, Joe’s has gradually grown from a little house to a sprawling complex of indoor and outdoor tables with live music many evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e h

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KAREM’S 9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646. Karem’s Grill & Pub, one of the first restaurants to open in the village-like Norton Commons, carries the look and feel of a neighborhood watering hole inside and out. The test of a restaurant, though, is the food, and Karem’s is excellent. $ p f KERN’S KORNER 2600 Bardstown Rd., 456-9726. This family-owned tavern has been a popular neighborhood pit stop since 1978. Kern’s offers freshly made ham, chicken salad sandwiches and burgers, as well as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. The hot and cold short orders are served up with riverboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts. $$ p e h LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 5833447. A serious restaurant hides behind the funky décor and madcap events (like the annual New Year’s Eve pajama party and the Ugly Lamp contest). The Bourbon Ball French toast beat Bobby Flay on a Throwdown. And everyone loves the fried green tomato BLT. The World of Swirl store in the front has been described as “Cracker Barrel on acid.” $$ p ✿ MANHATTAN GRILL 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 561-0024. $ ✿ MAXWELL’S BAR & GRILLE 9909 Taylorsville Rd., 267-9604. The former Maggie’s, reopened under new ownership, providing more choice for casual, family-centered dining in the Jeffersontown area. Salads, sandwiches, burgers, flatbread pizzas, honey-miso glazed salmon, Hot Browns, kabobs and a full bar. $$ p f h ✿ MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-6588. This California chain, a subsidiary of Bob Evans, goes urban and upscale where farmer Bob is folksy and country. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its reputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ ✿ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433. A popular spot in the urban neighborhood where the Highlands meet Germantown, The Monkey Wrench offers comfort food with a stylish spin, top flight music, a relaxed ambience and welcoming service. The long-awaited rooftop patio is open and packing them in on warm evenings. $ p f e h ✿ MR. POLLO 3606 Klondike Ln., 618-2280. On a visit to Peru, the Cuban owners learned how to make pollo a la brasa, a brined, spiced and long-roasted Andean specialty. So they’ve brought a South American cuisine new to town, where you can buy quarter, half or whole chickens that are served with a spicy-creamy aji sauce and sides of fries and salad or Cuban black beans and rice. $ MULLIGAN’S PUB AND GRILL 1801 Newburg Rd., 632-2818. Neighborhood institution Kaelin’s is gone, but Mulligans’ now holds down the fort. Although the “If you can’t stop, please wave sign” is still outside, inside, wood-paneled walls, a new horseshoe-shaped bar and vintage wooden golf clubs show that a new game is afoot. The beer list now includes BBC craft beers and Irish imports. The menu is geared toward hearty sandwiches, pizza and steak and shrimp entrées. $$ p f h NEIL & PATTY’S FIRESIDE BAR & GRILL 7611 IN 311, Sellersburg, IN, 246-5456. A family owned and operated outpost up the road a piece, long known for their warm and welcoming, down-home atmosphere. The local cognoscenti know they can also find excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always freshly made. Breakfast served until 2 p.m. — look for the bison sausage served with organic eggs. $$ p ✿

O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations) O’Charley’s, Inc. could serve well as the picture in the dictionary next to “American casual dining.” The Nashville-based chain operates 206 properties in 16 states in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-andseafood menu with the motto “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p h OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hilton Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alternative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Breakfast Buffet and the Executive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PAULA DEEN BUFFET Horseshoe Casino Hotel, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. Bubbly Paula extends her food empire to Horseshoe Casino. Modeled after her restaurants, the motif will be based on the architecture of Savannah, Ga., where she lives. Of course, there will be a shop attached, where you can purchasing aprons, cookbooks, cookware and her new furniture line. $$$$ h ✿ PEPPERS BAR & GRILL 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 587-3434. The casual-dining facility in the Hyatt Regency offers a full dinner menu for hotel guests and outside visitors as well. $$$ p h ✿ PUB LOUISVILLE Fourth Street Live 569-7782. Owned by Cincinnati’s The Tavern Restaurant Group, The Pub features “nouveau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes like fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f h RAFFERTY’S OF LOUISVILLE 988 Breckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurst Blvd., 412-9000. This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties like Red Alfredo Pasta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the largest and most creative salad combinations in town. $$ p ✿ RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616, 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 899-9001. The Robin, a Seattle-based chain well regarded for “gourmet burgers” and trimmings, has now landed in two East End locations. Despite a full bar, it reportedly attracts hordes of happy youngsters. $$ p f h ROOSTER’S 7405 Preston Hwy., 964-9464, 4420 Dixie Hwy., 384-0330. This Columbus-based wings-and-brews chain conquered Ohio and is now spreading its franchise wings across the Eastern U.S. Its first two Louisville properties are gaining popularity for a lively sports bar setting and oversize wings. $ p f h RUBY TUESDAY 11701 Bluegrass Pkwy., 267-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demonstrates quality, then Ruby Tuesday’s 600 international properties and 30,000 employees can stand up with pride. They’ve been upholding the slogan “Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar” in Louisville for a generation. $$ p h ✿ THE RUDYARD KIPLING 422 W. Oak St., 636-1311. The word “eclectic” fits this Old Louisville eatery in just about every dimension, from its funky decor to its diverse bill of fare, not to mention an array of entertainment that bridges the generations from Generation X’ers to aging hippies. $ p f e h ✿ SAM’S FOOD & SPIRITS 3800 Payne Kohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 702 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-2323. Sam Anderson has been running his popular Southern Indiana institution for over 17 years now, feeding an army of happy diners. You’ll now find his extensive and child friendly menu at a second location in Floyds Knobs. $$ p h ✿ SHONEY’S 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signature Dr., 969-8904. For nearly 50 years, Shoney’s restaurants have been one of America’s top choices for fast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $

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SIMPLY SPLENDID SALADS 203 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3373. Another pleasant spot for lunch or take-home dinner for shoppers and workers along the Shelbyville Road-Hurstbourne Parkway nexus. Choose from an interesting selection of huge salad bowls (Asian shrimp, tuna Nicosia, chicken Caesar) or piled-high crepe wraps (Philly cheese steak, vegetarian, Hawaiian chicken, chicken and Brie) for eat-in or take-away. $$ ✿ SKYLINE CHILI 1266 Bardstown Rd., 473-1234, 9980 Linn Station Rd., 429-5773, 4024 Dutchman’s Ln., 721-0093, 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-4020. Louisville’s outposts of a famous Cincinnati chili restaurant, these casual eateries offer the regional favorite (really it’s Greek spaghetti sauce, but keep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ h ✿ STEAK N SHAKE 3232 Bardstown Rd., 456-2670, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 966-3109, 2717 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3397, 10721 Fischer Park Dr., 326-3625, 980 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN., 285-1154. One of the oldest fast-food chains in the U.S., Steak N Shake traces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality steak burgers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ h ✿ STEVIE B’S BURGERS & MORE 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville IN 288-8365. Located near WalMart and I-65. Stevie B’s lures hungry shoppers to dress their own burgers at the toppings bar. Or, fuel up on Philly cheesesteaks, cheese chicken sandwiches, or a quarter-pound chili dog. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, Fourth Street Live, 585-3577. The original place to loosen the tie and congregate after the whistle blows. TGIF carries on its party atmosphere tradition with American bistro dining and libations. The bill of fare ranges from baskets of appetizers on up to contemporary entrées. $$ p f h ✿ TILTED KILT 6201 Dutchmans Ln., 409-8458. A franchise restaurant, notable for its skimpily plaidclad servers as much as its pub-style food. The aggressively cute menu offers “big-arse” burgers, various sandwiches, salads and wraps, entrées ranging from lasagna to “Longshanks” sausage platter to “Fat Bastard’s” meatloaf sandwich. Pizza and a short beer list are also available. $$ p h TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Market St., 569-4099, 141 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 941-8582. This local breakfast and lunch favorite housed in an old downtown theater building has opened a second location on New Albany’s growing restaurant row. Chef George Morris’ simple yet exciting menu adds a tongue-incheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. $ p f ✿ TOMMY LANCASTER’S RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2389. Value and variety are the strong points of this community tradition and the fare goes from burgers to steak. Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $$ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 587-3434. Dine on café fare in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobby while you take advantage of an environment made for people-watching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2441 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-9999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of everything with a down-to-earth flair, offering burgers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWIG & LEAF RESTAURANT 2122 Bardstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the “Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast — whether you’re enjoying it while venturing out on a leisurely Sunday morning or heading home very late on a Saturday night. It’s a place to grab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ h ✿ WESTPORT GENERAL STORE 7008 Hwy. 524, Westport, KY., 222-4626. It may be in the country, and you may feel far from the big city, until the

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food comes. Along with the requisite meat loaf and pork chops, you’ll find such ambitious fare as chicken buccatini and blackened scallops. $$ e ✿ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L fans, Wing Zone excels with jumbo wings in 25 flavors, including traditional Buffalo-style wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f h ZAXBY’S 2740 Allison Ln., Jeffersonville IN, 9200080. They have been all around us out in the state, but now Louisville has its own Zaxby’s, the casual dining chain that cutens its menu with a lot of “z’s”: zappetizers, zalads, platterz, wings and fingerz — that sort of thing. $ f h

FORTY ACRES AND A MULE RESTAURANT 1800 Dixie Hwy., 776-5600. $ FRANCO’S RESTAURANT & CATERING 3300 Dixie Hwy., 448-8044. Jay’s Cafeteria lives on in Shively. Jay’s former owners are now serving up Southern Soul food at family-friendly prices. The mac and cheese is sticky and crusty, the cornmeal muffins are crunchy on the outside and melt-inyour-mouth inside. Look for smothered pork chops, collard greens, fried chicken, fried catfish and fruit cobbler. $ FRONTIER DINER 7299 Dixie Hwy., 271-3663. The name “diner” says it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot on Dixie Highway delivers just what you’d expect in down-home comfort fare. The word on the street, though, is simple: Go for the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ ✿

BARBARA LEE’S KITCHEN 2410 Brownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a late-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ h

GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Preston Hwy., 966-4970, 1402 Cedar St., Clarksville, IN. 258-2540. Buffet style family dining — one price, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 p.m. $

BIG MOMMA’S SOUL KITCHEN 4532 W. Broadway, 772-9580. Big Momma’s may be the most hospitable place in the West End to get genuine soul food. A different main course is featured daily, all home-cooked food, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ ✿

GRANNY’S APRON 2605 Rockford Ln., 449-9026. Everything at Granny’s Apron is homemade by owner Jan Bradley, and it tastes that way: Dinner here will remind you of a trip back in time to Grandmother’s house, assuming that Grandmother was a really good cook. $

CARLY RAE’S 103 W. Oak St. The Old Louisville corner place with the great fenced-in patio has reopened with the same name, but new owners, with a focus on Soul Food. CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ two” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett Ave., 637-9515. You can whiff a scent of Louisville history coming off the old walls of this quintessential Germantown saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar food gets, and that’s not bad. The chili and the bean soup are particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 246-9485. The parking lot of this white frame building in rural Indiana is packed on weekend nights as families from throughout the area wait on delectable fried chicken. This is the very heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Broadway, 589-5464. Spicy, crunchy and sizzling hot fried chicken is the primary draw on a short, affordable menu. $ h THE CHILI POT 8118 Preston Hwy., 966-9920. This Okolona outpost serves up chicken salad sandwiches, hot dogs, grilled cheese and garden salad. Oh, and four kinds of chili: Louisville-style, green pork (with tomatillos), sirloin steak and white chicken. $ h COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middletown, 2449497. This nostalgic old house in the countryside offers a taste of Kentucky-style cookery in an array of lunch specials that range from homemade soups and sandwiches to the traditional Hot Brown. $ ✿ COTTAGE INN 570 Eastern Pkwy., 637-4325. Now under new management by the Kreso family, Cottage Inn sports a bright new look, and it continues happily doling out the kind of excellent downhome food it has served for more than 70 years. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. Third St., 588-2003. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty breakfasts bring droves to the counters and booths of this classic greasy spoon. Saturday morning hours are sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potatoes, D’Nalley’s is a hard place to beat. $

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HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 361-9104. Whether you like your eggs over easy, or your cheeseburgers well done, you’ll like the Hazelwood Restaurant. Standard short orders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 6641 Dixie Hwy., 995-3320. This chain serves up nostalgic dishes, casseroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ ✿ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 3820 W. Market St., 778-5154, 2901 Fern Valley Rd., 969-7993, 5009 S. Third St., 363-2535, 2970 Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8980. Grown from a tiny West End takeout spot to a mini-chain, Indi’s vends a variety of affordable soul food and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ h ✿ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ MISS C’S KITCHEN & PANTRY 1319 Story Ave., 759-1085, 308 W. Chestnut St., 992-3166. You will find traditional recipes using locally-sourced foods, such as pimento cheese made with Kenny’s white cheddar and tuna salad using the recipe from Stewart’s Orchid Room at both the Butchertown and new downtown location. $$ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner, not to mention full bar service that makes O’Dollys a Southwest Louisville destination. $pfh✿ OUR BEST RESTAURANT 5404 Antle Dr., 969-6410, 2835 Holmans Ln., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8133, 5612 Bardstown Rd., 239-2656. The original Our Best, a fine family restaurant in Henry County, is rapidly growing into a chain, with three properties in the big city now. $$ PAPA’S GRILLED CHICKEN 2622 Portland Ave., 749-5800. The owner of this little Portland storefront eatery, Ali Ali, cooks chicken on a grate over a hot flame, in full view of the eight seats. Though the chicken is the thing here, Papa will grill up burgers too, and beef, lamb, and chicken gyros (with house-made tzatziki), Philly cheesesteaks and Italian beef sandwiches. $ h QUEENIE’S SOUL CUISINE 2956 Richland Ave., 451-4698. Queenie has been cooking for her 13 siblings since she was a teenager. Finally she is getting paid to do it. She and her son serve breakfast, lunch

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and dinner: chicken and waffles, meatloaf, a soul burrito, chicken (fried, smothered or baked) and daily specials. $$ f SHIRLEY MAE’S CAFÉ 802 Clay St., 589-5295. This Smoketown institution draws hungry locals as well as celebrities in town hungry for the soul food of their youth. BBQ ribs, and hot-water cornbread cooked in a cast iron skillets. Pig’s feet and chicken wings and collards, all seasoned with Shirley Mae Beard’s spice rack—salt and pepper. $ SWEET-TEE’S 4900 Poplar Level Rd., 966-0075. A modest little soul-food emporium, brimming with the aromas of Southern ambrosia: collard greens cooked with fatback, sweet potato pie, crusty ribs and slow-cooked pig’s feet. The chicken is fried while you wait, the way the customers like it. $ WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800. A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shakes, cherry Cokes and an early bird “trainer’s” breakfast can be enjoyed all year round. Racing history on the walls and servers who’ll call you “hon.” $ WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. An old-line neighborhood corner grocery store houses a delicious secret: At the back you’ll find a steam table loaded with exceptional comfort food. Fried chicken is excellent, and don’t miss the chili. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN., 284-2667. This bustling eatery is cafeteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ ✿ THE BISTRO 3701 Frankfort Ave., 714-5586. A gem hidden away in The Olmsted, on the Masonic Home grounds in St. Matthews. This little spot has earned terrific word-of-mouth buzz since it opened last year. Soups, sandwiches, salads, pastas are the mainstay of the menu, with a four-item lunch buffet that changes weekly. $ f CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-4230. This thrifty deli offers a variety of build-your-own sandwiches, a soup-andsalad bar, and specialty bars featuring baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic creation. $ ✿ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 Story Ave., 583-0437. Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ ✿ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454-7286. This 40-year-old family-owned restaurant knows how to cook for folks missing their home table. Count on an attentive staff and fresh southern fare. $ ✿ LANCASTER’S CAFETERIA 223 W. Fifth St., New Albany, IN, 949-2400. Troy Lancaster, the grandson of Southern Indiana catering king Tommy Lancaster, recalls the family’s culinary heritage with this family-friendly buffet-style cafeteria. $ f PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4231733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gardener’s list of vegetables and a few ethnic dishes for global measure. $ ✿

THE BARD’S TOWN 1801 Bardstown Rd., 749-5275. On the ground floor a 60-seat restaurant and 30seat lounge. On the second floor is the 70-seat Bard’s Town Theatre home to a resident troupe dedicated to producing new works from Kentucky playwrights and beyond, to other theatre, poetry

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and musical acts from around the country. There is food and beverage service, but it is not a dinner theater. $$ h p e h ✿ DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, Louisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater sweepstakes … but the expansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400. What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that features a “dueling” piano bar with two pianos and a sing-along concept? You’ll find this 4,000square-foot club at Fourth Street Live on the ground level. $ p e h IMPROV COMEDY CLUB & WET WILLIE’S 441 S. Fourth St., 581-1332. The menu is no joke at this downtown club. Chow down on well-grilled steaks, fresh seafood and ribs that rank with the best in the city before the nationally-known comedy acts start. $$$ p f e h ✿ INCREDIBLE DAVE’S 9236 Westport Rd., 426-4790. “Awesome dining, extreme fun, where family fun hits maximum overdrive” is the promise at this giant dining and entertainment venue. It’s not just for kids: an upscale menu in a signature dining room is at the center of it all. $$ p h ✿ JOE HUBER FAMILY FARM & RESTAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 923-5255. A pleasant 20-minute drive from downtown Louisville, Huber’s has built a solid reputation for simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some of the produce is grown on the premises in season. $$ p f e MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN 602 N. Third St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old Kentucky Dinner Train offers a four-course meal during a two-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-era dining cars. Reservations are strongly recommended. $$$$ p ✿ STUMLER RESTAURANT & ORCHARD 10924 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 923-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a few steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. Combine that with honest fried chicken, big ham steaks, roast beef, and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f ✿

ALEXANDER’S PIZZERIA 1611 Charlestown-New Albany Rd., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-9000. $$ ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the steak hoagie, dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’s also offers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and cold beer. $ ✿ ANGIO’S RESTAURANT 3731 Old Bardstown Rd., 451-5454. This small Buechel eatery attracts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with cold beer. $ ✿ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 449-4444. Annie’s has made-toorder pizza and a variety of stacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Strom with beef, Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ h ✿ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9239805. A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ ✿ BEARNO’S PIZZA (12 locations) What began as a simple, family-run pizzeria near Bowman Field has morphed into a local chain with, at last count, 13 locations. $ p ✿ BONNIE & CLYDE’S PIZZA 7611 Dixie Hwy., 9355540. It may look like a dive that hasn’t been renovated in ages, the service can be surly at times, and you have to pay in cash, but devoted fans of its 68 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

thin-crust pizzas and hoagies keep coming back and talk it up with their friends. $$ f ✿ BOOMBOZZ FAMOUS PIZZA 3400 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. The little Boombozz take-out joint at the corner of Frankfort and Cannons Lane has moved across the street, taking over the former Patron’s space, and changing its name, becoming a Boombozz Taphouse in all but its name — and the fact that it will be serving beer in bottles only. Look for the Taphouse-style menu of pastas and sandwiches along with award-winning pies. $$ h ✿ BOOMBOZZ PIZZA BISTRO 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 261-0222. Boombozz wins praise for exceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-style fare. Tony’s pizzas include both traditional pies and gourmet-style specialties that have won awards in national competition. $$ h ✿ BOOMBOZZ PIZZA & TAP HOUSE 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889, 1315 Herr Ln., 394-0000. The Boombozz Pizza empire has expanded twice within a few months, with these sit-down pizza and taphouses The menu now extends into appetizers, sandwiches and pasta, and 21 craft beers on tap. The newest venue, in Westport Village, has been attracting a varied crowd enjoying the hearty and well-crafted food, the excellent beer selection and the array of sporting events on the TVs. $$ p f h ✿ BORROMEO’S PIZZA 9417 Smyrna Pkwy., 968-7743. Serving up old-school thin-crust pizzas to chowhounds south of the Gene Snyder. $ h CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 425-5125. California pizza became a trend when famous chefs gave this simple Italian fare a multi-ethnic spin with non-traditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f ✿ CHARLESTOWN PIZZA COMPANY 850 Main St., Charlestown IN, 256-2699. This welcoming venue on Charlestown’s town square, a short trip upriver from Jeffersonville, is run by folks who learned their pizza and beer at New Albanian Brewing Company. That’s a fine pedigree, and it shows in impressive quality. $$ ✿ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 944-4942, 3093 Breckinridge Ln., 452-6700. Serious bargain-hunters will find Cici’s culinary offer hard to beat. This Dallas-based chain serves up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ ✿ CLIFTON’S PIZZA 2230 Frankfort Ave., 893-3730. One of the originators of “Louisville style” of pizza, with additional toppings placed over the cheese. The venerable Clifton’s Pizza appeals with its adult style, full of the bold flavors of herbs and spices and available with grown-up toppings like anchovies and artichoke hearts. $ f e h ✿ COALS ARTISAN PIZZA 3724 Lexington Rd., 4240453. . The coal-fired oven bakes at 1000 degrees F, charring and crisping the crust in 4 minutes. The dough rises for 48 hours at room temperature, making for a lighter, more digestible crust. Topping are fresh, regionally-sourced, with specialty concepts. Look for local craft beers and house-made soups and salads in addition to pizzas. $$ p f h ✿ DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1567 S. Shelby St., 635-7994. $ DIORIO’S PIZZA & PUB 310 Wallace Ave., 618-3424. The former Karem’s Deli location in St. Matthews finally has a new tenant, serving pizza by the slice, as well as a mammoth 30-inch pie. Also grilled sandwiches, salads, wings, and queso sticks, and a good selection of domestic and import beers, including some BBC brews. $$ p f h ✿ FAT DADDY’S PIZZA 10611 W. Manslick Rd., 3637551. $ h ✿ FAT JIMMY’S 2712 Frankfort Ave., 891-4555, 2208 Bardstown Rd., 479-1040, 13829 English Villa Dr., 244-0840, 528 S. Fifth St., 589-8559. This friendly RED = ADVERTISER

neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pasta dishes and salads. The Lyndon spot lures a friendly biker crowd. $ ✿ FROLIO’S PIZZA 3799 Poplar Level Rd., 456-1000. Just around the corner from the Louisville Zoo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizzeria with a cozy, dim Italian-American mood and an all-you-can-eat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f ✿ HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 2454555, La Grange Square Shopping Center, 2224444. Pasta dishes, hoagies, stromboli and cold beer are available, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bacon Cheeseburger pizza. $$ h ✿ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ ✿ JOHNNY V’S 10509 Watterson Trail, 267-0900. $$ p f LITTLE CAESAR’S PIZZA (9 Locations) This Detroit-based pizzeria chain lost market share in the ’90s, but business analysts say the company known for its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ h ✿ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 267-1188. Also known as Chubby Ray’s, this local pizzeria makes good, fresh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f h ✿ LUIGI’S 712 W. Main St., 589-0005. If you think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled New York City-style pizza, a treat that you’ll find on just about every street corner there, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ ✿ MA ZERELLAS 949 S. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs served for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ ✿ MR. GATTI’S 703 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 283-5005, 5600 S. Third St., 3632211, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 4200 Outer Loop, 964-0920. This Austin-based chain was one of the first national pizzerias to reach Louisville in the 1970s, and quality ingredients — plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids — have made its crisp, thin-crust pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ ✿ NAKED PIZZA 139 Breckenridge Ln., 410-2211. The New Orleans carry-out and delivery chain backed by billionaire Mark Cuban has staked out the Louisville area for expansion. Its selling point in a saturated market is “healthy” pizza, made with unprocessed ingredients, a crust blended from “ancestral” whole grains, and probiotics for digestive health. The menu will also offer a glutenfree crust and all-natural soy cheese. $$ h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. Touting “the best pizza in Southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but pizza only tells half of this tasty story. NABC combines the fine pies of Sportstime Pizza with the pub formerly known as Rich O’s. Publican Roger Baylor’s remarkable beer list, with more than 100 selections from around the world — plus locally brewed craft beers — has won international awards. A pizza like the famous “Herbivore” (spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic) makes a sizzling treat, with a world-class beer to wash it down. $ OLD CHICAGO PASTA & PIZZA 9010 Taylorsville Rd., 301-7700. This growing chain specializes in both thick Chicago-style and thin traditional pizza, plus an imposing list of 110 beers from around the world. $$ p f h ✿ ORIGINAL IMPELLIZZERI’S 1381 Bardstown Rd., 454-2711, 4933 Brownsboro Rd., 425-9080, 110 W. Main St., 589-4900. Impellizzeri’s pizza, a Louisville icon known and loved for its massive pies for a generation, has opened a handsome new site near the new arena on Main, in addition to its Highlands and Brownsboro Road locations. $$$ p f h ✿

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PAPA JOHN’S PIZZA (30 locations) “Papa” John Schnatter got into the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3,000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple formula: traditional pizza, made from quality ingredients in a straightforward style. $$ ✿ PAPA MURPHY’S PIZZA (12 Locations) $$ ✿ PAPALINOS 947 Baxter Ave., 749-8515. Allan Rosenberg, who has cooked for several high-end restaurants, has opened this Highlands New York style pizza-by-the-slice place, to considerable enthusiasm. He offers just one size, an 18-incher, sold by the pie or the oversize slice, as well as calzones, breadsticks and a short list of salads and desserts. Choose from a dozen premium toppings, vegetarian and meaty, to go with the crispy crust. $

fh✿

PERFETTO PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 4264644.Located in the old Slice of NY space off S. Hurstbourne Parkway, Perfetto carries on the New York style tradition: pies by the slice, just like on Flatbush Avenue. Hand-tossed crust, all kinds of toppings, plus Italian sausage and meatball sandwiches. $$ ✿

VITO’S PIZZA 1919 S. Preston St., 634-1003. A little neighborhood pizza pub on the edge of Germantown has been serving up its signature pies to neighbors and commuters who pick up pies before they get on nearby I-65 to head home. $$ p f e h ✿ WICK’S PIZZA PARLOR 975 Baxter Ave., 458-1828, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 225 State St., New Albany, IN, 945-9425, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., (Ramada Plaza) 409-4267. Wick’s wins popularity with a welcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer list and a friendly neighborhood feel at all five of its eateries. The pies are straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p h ✿ WINDY CITY PIZZERIA 2622 S. Fourth St., 636-3708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas offer whichever option a pizza lover desires. $$ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$ p ✿

PIZZA BY THE GUY 814 Lyndon Ln., 426-4044. This locally owned franchise, now in larger quarters, wins its fans’ praise for extra spicy sauce and handtossed dough. $ h ✿

AMAZING GRACE WHOLE FOODS DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485-1122. If you think “vegan” means only raw carrots, bean sprouts, seeds and roots, think again. No animals were harmed in the making of the tasty alternative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached to a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ✿

PIZZA KING 3825 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4405, 1066 Kehoe Ln., Jeffersonville, IN., 2828286. The pizza at Pizza King is baked in a sturdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$

ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patronize a carpet shop. And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ ✿

PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ h ✿

BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945. The open flame at this counter-service diner provides the next best thing to a family cookout. Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit cobblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshakes enhance the nostalgic theme. $ ✿

PUCCINI’S SMILING TEETH 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-0170. A small but growing pizza chain based in Indianapolis opens its first Louisville property on Shelbyville Road. Thin pizza by the slice and other Italian-American dishes are served in an attractive setting that’s a cut above fast food. $$ ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 282-3844. Rocky’s is reinventing itself by going back to its roots. Gone is the “Italian Grill” appelaton, and back is the Sub Pub theme, along with a growing selection of craft and import beers and a select choice of Italian-American entrées. Go to enjoy a pizza, some baked ziti or chicken parmigiana, and some hoppy draft as you contemplate the Louisville skyline. Or call in for delivery to Jeffersonville, Clarksville or Louisville. $ p f ✿ SICILIAN PIZZA & PASTA 631 S. Fourth St., 5898686. Ready for takeout or eat-in, this downtown storefront offers good, standard (not Sicilian) pizza and other familiar Italian-American dishes. $ h SIR DANO’S PIZZA PARLOR 469 N. Indiana Ave., Sellersburg IN, 246-3346. $ f ✿ SNAPPY TOMATO 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 4126205. $$ h ✿ SPINELLI’S PIZZERIA 614 Baxter Ave., 568-5665, 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 632-2832, 4001 Shelbyville Rd. After a long, slow expansion into the suburbs, this locally-owned pizzeria, widely known for their massive pizza by the slice, has quickly expanded into St. Matthews. All three locations are open until 5 am nightly Wednesday through Saturday, offering Philly-style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f h ✿ STUDIO PIZZA 1401 Veterans Pkwy, Clarksville, IN, 288-6600. Owner Steve Baldwin serves up Chicagostyle pie, calzones and other tipico Italiano fare, with a performance stage ready for pro performers or karaoke. $$ ✿ TONI’S MORE THAN PIZZA 3213 Preston Hwy., 634-5400. Friendly service and sizzling pies make this neighborhood pizzeria a favorite under any name. $$ ✿

BLIMPIE’S SUBS & SALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960. Sublime subs — fast and fresh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $ ✿ BRIAN’S DELI 531 S. Fourth St., 561-0098. Between Chestnut Street and Muhammad Ail Boulevard, Brian’s services the downtown lunch crowd with soup, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $ BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410. For a real slice of Louisville life, this weathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the real thing. Neighborhood denizens drink coffee and chow down on burgers and breakfast until the wee hours (the joint is open 24 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, there’s a good chance he’s sitting at their counter right now, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ h BUTCHER’S BEST MEATS & DELI 9521 US Hwy. 42., 365-4650. This fully staffed meat store in Prospect offers custom-cut beef, lamb, pork, bison, chicken and veal, plus a well-stocked deli and specialty foods, with skilled butcher Jimmy Mike at the helm. $ f CAFÉ PALACIO 4010 Dupont Circle, 708-1818. Serving lunch to workers in the Dupont area five days a week. $ ✿ CALISTOGA ARTISAN SANDWICHES 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 895-3779, 401 E. Chestnut St., 561-9092. “Papa” John Schnatter, founder of the worldwide pizza chain that bears his name, is taking another shot at the fast-food world with the more upscale Calistoga Artisan Sandwiches that some have likened to Panera Bread. $ f ✿ CAT BOX DELI 500 W. Jefferson St., 561-6259. The name of this cozy downtown deli in the PNC Bank building might warrant a double-take, but its feline theme and kitty cartoons earn a smile. Open for breakfast and lunch, it offers a good selection of sandwiches, panini and wraps at budget prices. $ ✿

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CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. Gyros, of course, and substantial ones, traditional beef and lamb, chicken, BBQ chicken and even vegetarian. But Philly steak sandwiches too, and catfish sandwiches, Chicago style hot dogs and burgers. Chicken wings, hummus, Greek salads as well. And, they deliver. $ f e ✿

625-7101, 301 E. Market St., 587-7888, 1321 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 425-4515, 3001 Charlestown Crossing Way, New Albany, In. 725-8580, 1116 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-6700, 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 384-8884. This national sandwichshop chain offers a wide selection of over stuffed subs that benefit from fresh quality ingredients. But what sets them apart from the rest is their value — and they deliver. $ f h ✿

DANISH EXPRESS PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2863. Just a few tables turn this takeout nook into a sit-in breakfast and lunch spot for a handful of diners at a time. Full breakfasts and light lunches are available, but as the name implies, Danish pastries are the specialty, and they’re fine. $ ✿

JOE DAVOLA’S 901 Barret Ave., 690-5377. Near the government center in the lower Highlands, this popular sandwich shop features healthful choices for lunch. $ ✿

DEVINO’S 104 W. Main St., 569-3939. This stylish deli offers another lunch and dinner option downtown. Sandwiches are made from quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the premises, with dining inside and on the patio; package beer and wine is also available. $ f

LENNY’S SUB SHOP 3942 Taylorsville Rd., 4547831. Another semi-national chain, covering mostly the South and Midwest, brings a selection of familiar subs, sandwiches and salads to Louisville diners eager for more standardized semifast food. $ f ✿

DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 583-3828. This neighborhood eatery is an institution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f

LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Market St., New Albany IN, 949-7567. Every city needs a postage-stamp-sized spot that knows how to fry potatoes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gravy, fried eggs, and burgers, in a joint that seems like a throwback to the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ ✿

DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 980 Breckenridge Ln., 893-3354, 2415 Lime Kiln Ln., 426-3354. This convenient deli specializes in bagels, as the name implies. Breakfast means fresh bagels with an array of cream cheese, sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches — subs, panini, wraps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ ✿ DOWN TO LUNCH GRILLE 239 S Fifth St., 5890865. “Just good food” is the tag line that draws in busy downtown workers for breakfast and lunch in the cozy space in the Kentucky Home Life Building. $ EINSTEIN BROTHERS BAGELS 320 W. Jefferson St., (Hyatt Regency) 217-6046. Nothing beats a bagel and a schmear of cream cheese — unless it’s a bagel, a schmear, and a generous slab of lox. For those who don’t live on bagels, a good selection of soups, salads and sandwiches offer quick sustenance at this branch of the national chain. $ f ✿ THE FEED BAG DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 8961899. The grilled salmon burger is worth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, desserts top off the lunch-only schedule. $ ✿ FRASCELLI’S NEW YORK DELI & PIZZERIA 6010 Crestwood Station, 243-9005. This Oldham County shop offers Italian-style deli sandwiches and pizza, plus home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $ p h ✿ GREAT LIFE CAFÉ 9565 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8807, 9463 Westport Rd., 420-0707, 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-5624. This small but growing local chain, founded Steve and Jill Mazzoni and their friend Jason McCune, specializes in health and nutrition supplements and vitamins. $ ✿ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 3602 Northgate Crt., New Albany, IN, 941-9426. $ JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-4101, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 896-0150, 1975 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-4130. Don’t look for a New York kosherstyle deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at its multiple locations for oversize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f ✿ JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND SALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1991, 10519 Fischer Park Dr., 425-1025, 9156 Taylorsville Rd., 499-9830. East Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, prosciuttini, capicola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $ ✿ JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 976 Baxter Ave., 5870550, 4000 Shelbyville Rd., 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Ln., 894-9393,415 W. Jefferson St.,

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LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2380. This appetizing operation offers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a taste of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet. Make Lonnie’s the place to go when you’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA PASTA 3717 Lexington Rd., 896-6361. A Louisville pioneer in gourmet cheeses, oils, dips, hummus and, of course, pasta. They are mainly an eclectic specialty-food store but fans stand threedeep at the sandwich counter every afternoon. And next door is a comfortable place to have coffee and pastry or to eat your sandwich. $ ✿ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-1005. This outfit prepares its share of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589-3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Street historic district, this fashionable deli lures the savvy business midday crowd. $ f ✿ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6510 Bardstown Rd., 239-9997, 12911 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5133, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3354, 1200 S. Floyd St. (U of L), 825-2285, 4677 Outer Loop, 969-3328. Emphasizing quality customer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chicken tortilla along with cutting board favorites. They have a special way with a tumbler of sweet iced tea. $ ✿ MORRIS DELI & CATERING 2228 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668, 555 S. Second St. (YMCA building), 587-2353. Many locals still know this small, popular Highlands deli as Karem Deeb’s after its longtime previous owner. Mostly for takeout — it packs in a few crowded tables — it’s known for high-quality, hand-made deli fare. A second location is now open in the YMCA downtown. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL BOX 651 S. Fourth St., 589-4004. An outpost of Nancy’s Bagel Grounds in Clifton, this little outlet, inside Theater Square Marketplace, offers a similar mix of light fare and Nancy’s unique take on the bagel. $ ✿ NANCY’S BAGEL GROUNDS 2101 Frankfort Ave., 895-8323. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Offerings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f ✿

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OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of fast-food history remains on an urban street corner in Old Louisville. It’s one of the nation’s few surviving trolleys of the Louisvillebased chain that spread across the nation in the ’70s. Oversize burgers with a spicy, homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Orders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dropping in to someone’s home for lunch. Soups salads and freshly made sandwiches are uniformly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or less. $ ✿ PANERA BREAD CO. 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Mall), 899-9992, 6221 Dutchmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 423-7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 426-2134, 3131 Poplar Level Rd., 6359164, 1040 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2889400, 400 W. Market St., 540-5250, 1801 Rudy Ln., 710-0297. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tasty base for a variety of sandwiches. Soups, salads, coffee drinks and a free WiFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f ✿ PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3922 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4946 Brownsboro Rd., 426-5059, 12119 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0072, 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of Louisville’s popular sources for produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ ✿ PENN STATION (17 Locations). Billed as the East Coast Sub Headquarters, this sandwich kitchen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ ✿ QUIZNO’S SUBS (10 locations) Toasted breads, a sandwich selection of meats, veggies and fish are built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ ✿ RED’S 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-7337. Across from Louisville Gardens, “Red” has thoroughly refurbished the former Picnicaters into a spotless “hot-daug stand” offering gourmet wieners and sausages, chicken barbecue topped with coleslaw and vegetarian side dishes, many made with locally sourced products. Take away, or sit at one of the nine stools lining the little building and watch the passing parade. $ f ✿ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer Park Dr., 4258447, 12915 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s offered just one kind of sandwich — “The Original” — when it opened its first eatery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f ✿ SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. Another attractive East End storefront, Shady Lane Café, has been earning good reviews for simple breakfast and lunch fare served in friendly surroundings. $ ✿ SOUPY’S 3019 Breckenridge Ln., 451-5325. In the soup kettles you will find such classics as cheesy potato, bean and ham, broccoli and cheese, chicken and dumplings and more. At the cutting board they’ll make your meat, cheese and veggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ ✿ THE STARVING ARTIST CAFÉ & DELI 8034 New Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $ ✿ STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 5843354. This authentic New York-style deli occupies the rear third of the Ditto’s space in the heart of the Highlands. Take out or eat in one of the booths, you’ll get piled-high pastrami, brisket and corned beef and you’ll love lox and a schmear on your bagel — even if you don’t know what a schmear is. $ ✿

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SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964-1075. The hardy No. 19, a six-meat-and-cheese super sub, keeps the store buzzing. An array of sandwiches, salad sides and desserts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $ ✿ TC’S SANDWICH SHOPPE 438 W. Market St., 581-9200. $ THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. At the back of the Felice Plaza east of downtown, the Bodega combines a small specialty-food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact roof. They’ll build your lunch to dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f ✿ THORNBERRY’S DELI & PIES 5103 S. Third St., 367-8394. $

meats skillfully smoked on the premises, with sauce served on the side as it should be. $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 New Lagrange Rd., 241-5829. Jucy’s offers exceptionally good Texas-style barbecue from a little wooden shack that looks just like a country BBQ joint should. Highly recommended. $$ f MARK’S FEED STORE 11422 Shelbyville Rd., 2440140, 1514 Bardstown Rd., 458-1570, 10316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 3827 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 285-1998. Mark Erwin started this chain in an old Hancock’s Feed Store. Today, Mark’s routinely takes local honors for its sauces, sandwiches and its meaty baby-back ribs. And don’t miss the smoked take-home turkeys at Thanksgiving. $$ f

W.W. COUSINS RESTAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. This locally owned and operated eatery looks a lot like the national Fuddruckers chain, but the local boys do a better job, with huge burgers on magisterial home-baked buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ ✿

OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far from General Electric’s Appliance Park, this Louisville relative of a famous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ f

WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way (Jewish Hospital) 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this busy downtown deli will serve in-house diners or take orders for deliveries. Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ ✿

PIT STOP BAR-B-QUE 13303 Magisterial Dr., 2536740. This familiar old local brand, long a downtown fixture, now offers its smoky Texas barbecue in an East End industrial park just off the Gene Snyder Freeway and Old Henry Road. $

BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 239-2722, 7508 Preston Hwy., 968-5657. Bootleg Barbecue offers a touch of rusticity and a good helping of country hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of well-prepared and affordable smoked meats and fixin’s. It’s one of the few places in Louisville where you can get Western Kentuckystyle mutton barbecue. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9901 LaGrange Rd., 4266666. Featuring hickory-smoked Tennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, affordable dinners. $ ET’S MEMPHIS BAR-B-Q 201 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 280-2227. Memphis style brisket and pulled pork. Sides of creamy sweet coleslaw and hearty smoked beans. Afterwards, try the blackberry cobbler ala mode. $$ f FAMOUS DAVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel Way, 493-2812, 1360 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain operation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its exuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the food, and Dave’s excels with genuine, hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FIRE FRESH BBQ 211 S. Fifth St., 540-1171, 8610 Dixie Hwy., 995-7585. Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that FireFresh Bar B Q pays homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. The barbecue and country fixin’s stand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f FRANKFORT AVENUE BEER DEPOT 3204 Frankfort Ave., 895-3223, 1202 Bardstown Rd., 384- 8077. A neighborhood bar that welcomes all comers with some of the most notable ’cue in town. The burgoo and the baked beans rank as some of the best in the city and the pulled pork by the pound is value worth taking home. Now with a second venue in the old NV Bar Grill (next to the Wine Market) on Bardstown Road. $ p f h HARLEY’S HARDWOODZ BAR-B-Q 1703 CharlestownNew Albany Pk., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-4490. Owner Frank Harley said “I found my calling, which is barbecue.” He smokes up barbecue pork, chicken and brisket, marinated in Harley’s own barbecue sauce. A menu specialty: smoked chicken white chili. $ JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in Corydon, IN, offers a fine range of barbecue

RITE WAY BAR-B-CUE HOUSE 1548 W. St. Catherine St., 584-9385. Open since 1943, this West End landmark in a one-time neighborhood grocery, offers exceptional urban barbecue, including ribs that rank with the city’s best. $ f h RUBBIE’S SOUTHSIDE GRILL & BAR 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. This South End family knows how to do BBQ. It may be off the beaten path for some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e h SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 244-6868. Ribs, pork, chicken a la carte and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SHACK IN THE BACK BBQ 406 Mt. Holly Rd., 3633227. This Fairdale institution since 2004 smokes and serves slow-smoked pulled pork, brisket, ribs and a dozen sides (including Nanny’s potato salad) from an 1896 log house. House specialty is hickory-grilled steaks on Friday and Saturday nights. $ f e SHANE’S RIB SHACK 12420 Lime Kiln Ln., 4293907. “Rib” may be its middle name, but you can also fill up on wings, chicken tenders, sandwiches and more at this growing Atlanta-based chain, now open in this former Tijuana Flats facility. $$ f h SMOKEHOUSE BBQ 5414 Bardstown Rd., 239-4422. A new smokery on Bardstown Road just past Hurstbourne offers baby back and spare ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and burgers, along with home-cooked sides like collard greens, sweet potato fries and onion loaf. Finish off with a coconut cream pie or chocolate cobbler. $$ p SMOKETOWN USA 1153 Logan St., 409-9180. The name “Smoketown” does double-duty at this TexMex storefront just east of Old Louisville in the Smoketown neighborhood. Ribs are juicy and smoky; the pinto beans and the Blue Bunny ice cream from Texas are not to be missed. $ f ✿ SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A property of Orlando’s Darden fastfood chain, which also runs Olive Garden and Red Lobster, this noisy Stony Brook-area eatery conveys more of a sports-bar than barbecue concept, but the ribs are fine. $$ p TEXICANS BBQ PIT 6608 Hwy. 146, Crestwood. 241-9227. A small, neighborhood place just off I-71 in Crestwood pleases fans with standard barbecue fare — pulled pork, brisket and ribs — as well as smoked sausage, chicken and boneless chops. Cinnamon apples join the usual side selection of green beans, slaw and mac and cheese. $

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VINCE STATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. U.S. 42, 228-7427. Author Vince Staten, who literally wrote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name remains on this neighborhood joint out the road in Oldham County. $

BEEF O’BRADY’S 239 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-2322, 5628 Bardstown Rd., 239-2226, 3101 S. Second St., 637-3737, 105 LaFollette, 923-1316, 1450 Veterans Pkwy., Jeffersonville, IN, 285-9464, 5501 Valley Station Rd., 933-5919, 11324 Preston Hwy., 9668515. If you think your basic sports pub is only suitable for guys guzzling beer, take another look: Beef O’Brady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ h BIG AL’S BEERITAVILLE 1715 Mellwood Ave., 8934487. Good people, good food, cold beer: The sign out front says it all, and we might add “cool atmosphere” in praise of this small but friendly Butchertown oasis. $ p f e BIG BLUE COUNTRY 426 Baxter Ave., 585-2583. A sports bar catering to UK fandom (and also the “official” home for Indianapolis Colts followers). There’s a pizza buffet, a selection of flavored breadsticks (including dessert sticks), the typical snack fare of wings, nachos, calamari and so forth. Also salads, sandwiches and burgers. $ p f BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 4600 Shelbyville Plaza, 899-7732, 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12901 Shelbyville Rd., 254-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454-3635, 1112 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 283-9464. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack-type fare, including the chain’s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f h BUFFALO WINGS & RINGS 2610 Chamberlain Ln., 243-4464, 6501 Bardstown Rd., 231-6501. $ p f h BUNGALOW JOE’S BAR & GRILL 7813 Beulah Church Rd., 931-5637. A “family friendly sports bar and grill” in the Fern Creek area sports 23 HDTVs including a 5- by 7-foot HD projector for 3D football viewing. A game room for kids, and plenty of wings, shrimp, burgers and beer. $$ p f e h CHAMPIONS SPORTS RESTAURANT 280 W. Jefferson St. (Louisville Marriott), 671-4246. Another popular option at the striking new downtown Marriott, Champions provides a fun, casual dining alternative with a Kentucky sports theme — and a gallery of big-screen televisions to keep the sports action flowing as freely as the libations and upscale pub grub. $$ p f h CLUCKERS WINGS 4308 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 944-8100. At the old Joe’s OK Bayou location, chicken wings now reign. Choose from an array of sauces, from honey barbecue to spicy garlic barbecue to sweet Thai chili to inferno – a habanero-based sauce that has a legit name. Also breaded and grilled tenders, chicken sandwiches, appetizers and salads. $ h CORNER DOOR BAR & GRILL 2222 Dundee Rd., 708-2885. A bright, new addition to the Douglass Loop featuring craft brews on tap, a tasteful selection of wine, and reasonably priced food, including the signature Zip Burger and ribbon fries. The Facebook page also boasts “the best-looking bartenders and wait staff in the Highlands.” $ p f h DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARDS 3814 Frankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f h ✿ DONEGAN’S RESTAURANT & PUB 938 Baxter Ave., 562-1234. Another bar and grill has been added to the Revelers’ Row along Baxter in the Highlands, with 42 craft and import beers on tap, and a full service lunch and dinner menu ready to be phased in. $ p f e h

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FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxter Ave., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection draw Highlands folks to this cozy neighborhood pub. For a late night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it’s one of the best options in the city. $$ p f h FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2930. Steam-table service featuring spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chicken attract a hungry lunch crowd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p

burger, mushroom burger—plus a 2-pounder that is free if it can be eaten in 60 minutes. Breakfast or lunch served anytime. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e h ROOTIE’S SPORTS BAR & GRILLE 12205 Westport Rd., 365-4681. The first entry of the Buffalo-based chain to open in the area. Rootie’s angle is charcoalgrilled wings with a thick, hickory-smoked spicy sauce. $ p f h

FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” concept operated by a Wichita, Kansas-based chain, Fox & Hound features a “mid-casual” menu with burgers, pizza, chicken and pot roast, in a large venue with plenty of billiard tables and an ample supply of large-screen televisions. $$ p f h ✿

RUMBALL’S FAMILY SPORTS BAR 5901 Terry Rd., 365-2781, 10000 Hwy. 22, 327-5496. A familycentered sports bar, with a welcome focus on scratch cooking (the chicken strips are cut in-house from actual chicken breasts) with a “Little League Menu” to appeal to the small fry. Along with wraps and salads, the regulars like the deep-fried burger. $$ p f h

GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 742-8616. A popular St. Matthews neighborhood tavern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e h ✿

SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almost like two restaurants in one, Saints features both a small, intimate, candle-lighted room and a larger, happily boisterous main room with the look and feel of a sports bar. $$ p e h ✿

GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. Third St., 637-9128. A longtime gathering place for U of L students, faculty and fans, this sturdy redbrick tavern just north of the university campus offers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled fare plus pizza. It’s perhaps best known, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the best burgers in town. $

SERGIO’S WORLD BEERS 1605 Story Ave., 618-2337. Sergio built up a loyal following in his Shelbyville location, so that may account for the stealth presence he has established in his new Butchertown digs: minimal signage, a quirky Web site, an aura of haughty mystery. If you can locate the place, it almost seems as if you need a secret word to enter. What you really need is a desire to explore Sergio’s world beer inventory, nearing 1000 different brews. $$ h ✿

GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2735 Crittenden Dr. (Hilton), 637-2424. Located in the Louisville International Airport Hilton. Salads, burgers, pastas and sandwiches are available for the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POST INN 7314 Fegenbush Ln., 2394724. In addition to its full bar and beer garden, and lively conversation, the Hitching Post Inn offers an array of pub grub, including burgers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p h HOOPS GRILL AND SPORTS BAR 6733 Strawberry Ln., 375-4667. The name says it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place at this friendly neighborhood spot where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f h ✿ JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarksville, IN, 2882100. Quality, affordable fare that goes well beyond pub grub to include an awesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e h ✿ JOHN O’BRYAN’S TAVERN 4123 Flintlock Dr., 4494940. $ THE LIGHTHOUSE 202 Main St., Jeffersonville, IN, 283-0077. This lighthouse has been a beacon of casual, home cooking and tavern environment for years. Daily specials, appetizers, chicken and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ ✿ MAIN ST. TAVERN 122 W. Main St., 384-0151. Longstanding blues bar Zena’s closed, but fans were relieved when the funky downtown space was reopened by the owners of Amici in Old Louisville, who continue to offer great music and even better bar food. $ p e h MICHAEL MURPHY’S RESTAURANT 701 S. First St., 587-0013. This full service restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetites for a couple of generations. Despite the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p MIKE’S TAVERN 3521 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 945-8915. A tavern that serves a full breakfast — eggs, bacon, hotcakes. For lunch, a varied 1/2pound burger menu — jalapeno burger, bacon 72 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

SLAMMER’S SPORTS BAR & GRILL 2800 Crums Ln., 618-3588. A kid-friendly sports bar, with 20 large flat screens and one huge (110-inch) one. Expect a reasonably-priced pub menu (ribs, burgers, sandwiches) and plenty of opportunity to drink beer while catching any game you want. $ p f e h SONNY’S ISLAND GRILL & THE BAMBOO LOUNGE 100 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2500. Take an island vacation just across the river. The chef of this new river front restaurant hails from Hawaii, and plans a fresh seafood option each weekend. Above the first floor grill the Bamboo Lounge provides couches, a pool table, TVs and live music. $$ p f e h THE SPORTING NEWS GRILL 6551 Paramont Park Dr. (Holiday Inn), 966-0000. Just what you want in a sports bar: seven 52-inch screens, subscriptions to all the pro and college sports networks, and hearty appetizers, Angus burgers, steaks, shrimp and salmon. $$$ p f h ✿ THE SPORTS & SOCIAL CLUB 427 S. Fourth St., 568-1400. This Cordish-owned spot has four bars — including one that opens out onto the street — plenty of TVs to catch every game, and even a “stadium style sports media room.” Chow down with the usual burgers, sandwiches and wings. $$ p h ✿ SPRING STREET BAR & GRILL 300 S. Spring St., 584-6630. A classic American bar and grill, open late on weekends, dispensing cold beer, burgers, sandwiches and good cheer in a friendly atmosphere. The decor includes a collection of old bicycles hanging from the ceiling, and amenities include several video games and pool tables. $$ p h STEINERT’S 401 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 9458827. The name has been on the Southern Indiana restau rant/bar scene since 1880. The newest incarnation, amid the booming New Albany Main Street area, features family-style dining until 9 p.m., in a room adjoining the bar, with live music, open-mic nights and other late-evening entertainment. $ p e h SULLY’S SALOON 434 S. Fourth St., (Fourth Street Live) 585-4100. $$ p f h THE BACK DOOR 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-0659. One of the city’s friendliest pubs lost one of its

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long-time owners, Mike Ewing, recently, but his partner John Dant is keeping his spirit alive at this Mid-City Mall saloon. Limited bar fare, but don’t miss the chicken wings. $ p f h VIC’S CAFÉ 1839 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 9444338. $ ZANZABAR 2100 S. Preston St., 635-9227. An icon of the ’70s bar scene, the Zbar has resurrected itself at its original location in Germantown. The stylish tile front has been recreated anew, and chef Jack Tapp is pushing the envelope on bar food, with items such as pulled pork smoked on site, sesame seed-crusted tuna salad, and peppercorn-crusted rib eye. “Pub grub” like this and top-flight live music is satisfying oldtimers and the newly hip late into the night. $ p f h ✿

BANK STREET BREWHOUSE 415 Bank St., New Albany, IN, 725-9585. With long-time Le Relais souschef Joshua Lehman at the helm, the food focus of this offshoot of F&D columnist Roger Baylor’s New Albanian brewing empire has sharpened into Belgian-style bistro cuisine. Mussels and frites will always be available, and croques monsieurs et madames to go with the exceptional beer brewed on the premises. $$ p f ✿ BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899-7070, 636 E. Main St., 584-2739, 2 Theater Square, 568-2224, 300 W. Main St., 5620007. More than just a brewpub. BBC’s management gives equally serious attention to both cooking and brewing, making this a great place to stop in for both dinner and a beer. Now serving at a third restaurant site near the new arena. $ p f e ✿ BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St., (See listing under Bistros.) CUMBERLAND BREWS 1576 Bardstown Rd., 4588727. Giving new meaning to the term “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smallest eateries in town. It’s usually packed, earning its crowds the old-fashioned way by providing very good food, friendly service, and high-quality handcrafted artisan beers. $ f e h ✿ NEW ALBANIAN BREWING CO. 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2577. (See review under Pizza.)

CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 4218 Bishop Ln., 473-8959. Offering another interesting ethnic cuisine to Louisville’s international dining scene, with generous portions of spicy Senegalese cuisine from West Africa. $ FUNMI’S CAFÉ 1043 Bardstown Rd., 454-5009. A new addition to the ethnic choices in town: modern Nigerian food at this little Highlands cafe. You can get stewed goat here, served with yam flour, or roasted cassava. Try the dodo (fried plantains) or suya (beef kabobs in a peanut-spice rub). $$ h ✿ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 2804 Taylorsville Rd., 459-6301. This authentic Ethiopian restaurant offers a wide selection of intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a variety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialties. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but they’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $ ✿

#1 ASIAN BUFFET 1250 Bardstown Rd., 451-6033. Not just another in the herd of all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this 350 seat eatery is the first between-the-coasts outpost of the original #1 buffet in NYC. $$ ✿

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8 CHINA BUFFET 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4933884. $ ✿ A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $ ✿ ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 285-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 479-9989. Competent cookery and careful management that ensures buffet offerings stay fresh and hot makes these buffets a good choice among the growing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p ✿ ASIAN MOON 1915 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 261-9998, 3360 Hikes Ln., 451-0077. $ ✿ AUGUST MOON 2269 Lexington Rd., 456-6569. August Moon’s secret ingredient is the culinary oversight of Chef Peng Looi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Zen master’s style. Consistent commitment in the kitchen and from the staff makes it a top spot for Asian fare. A lovely patio at the rear affords a pleasant alfresco dining experience. $$$ p f ✿ BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar Level Rd., 451-3113. An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern Louisville spot may not offer the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ ✿ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ ✿

EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hwy., 568-2688. $ ✿ EGGROLL MACHINE 1543 Bardstown Rd., 4591259. The Chinese side of the menu at Café Mimosa is presented as The Egg Roll Machine, as opposed to the Vietnamese dishes on the fine dining Mimosa menu. All the expected Chinese favorites are here, including combination platters. $ph✿ EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 426-1717. One of Louisville’s fanciest and most noteworthy Chinese restaurants, the Emperor’s quarters are stylishly strewn across multiple levels of a former suburban movie theater. Outstanding. $$ p ✿ EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empress was one of Louisville’s first serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its fare still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p ✿ FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ ✿ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ ✿ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 3682868. $ ✿ GOLDEN STAR CHINESE RESTAURANT 3681833, 3458 Taylor Blvd. $ ✿

CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 288-8989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, attentively fried rice, and properly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the other places typical of the genre. $ ✿

GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ ✿

CHINA CAFÉ 8625 Preston Hwy., 968-7450. $ ✿

GREAT WOK 2502 Preston Hwy., 634-1918. Just about every shopping center in town has a fastfood Chinese spot, but this one stands out, generating a buzz of word-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ ✿

CHINA CASTLE 7420 Third Street Rd., 367-4272. $ ✿ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Preston Hwy., 968-4672. A busy restaurant with the double pleasure of Chinese and American menu items. $ ✿

GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. This Clifton restaurant ranks high up in the fast-food Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ ✿

CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the most popular eateries around the University of Louisville’s Belknap Campus. $ ✿

HAPPY CHINA 9106 Taylorsville Rd., 493-1001. $ ✿

CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ ✿

CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ ✿

HONG KONG FAST FOOD 5312 S. Third St., 3678828. One of the many international eateries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese standards hot and fast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials for an occasional intriguing item. $ ✿

CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ ✿

HUNAN WOK 231-0393, 6445 Bardstown Rd. $ ✿

CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ ✿

JADE PALACE 1201 Herr Ln., 425-9878. Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time, but don’t miss it at mid-day Friday through Monday, when it offers the metro area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p ✿

CHINA TASTE 135 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-5580. $ ✿ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ ✿

CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ ✿ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RESTAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ ✿ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 1255 Goss Ave., 635-5656, 2600 W. Broadway, 778-2573. A standout among fast-food shopping-center Chinese eateries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 6832 Bardstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668, 5222 Dixie Hwy., 448-1988. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 587-8686. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ ✿ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 233 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buffet in a chic East End shopping strip, offers a good range of Chinese treats on its all-you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ ✿ DYNASTY BUFFET 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868. The continuing proliferation of look alike, taste alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happy to report that Dynasty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ ✿

HONG KONG CHINESE RESTAURANT 345 New Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ ✿

JASMINE 13823 English Villa Dr., 244-8896. A charming Asian eatery, where you can enjoy familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge your more adventurous side with a selection of more unusual authentic dishes from the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f ✿ JUMBO BUFFET 2731 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitter, Jumbo offers a standard all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ ✿ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King Wok offers all the familiar standards plus a small lunch buffet. $ ✿ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurst Blvd., 425-0188. Genial host Roland Wong keeps Liang’s in the top tier of local Chinese dining rooms with both authentic Chinese cuisine and fine Chinese-American dishes in this airy, stylish dining room. $ ✿

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LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its East End shopping center location, Ling Ling is a cut above fast-food Chinese; better yet, it adds a few Vietnamese dishes to the bill of fare. $$ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelbyville Rd., 244-9898. Small but charming, with white tablecloths and soft Chinese music, family-run Liu’s gains our approval with fresh, competent cookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ ✿ MING’S BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893-0822. Yet another large, shiny, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet featuring mostly Chinese dishes with a few American-style items and sushi rolls. $ ✿ NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ ✿ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-0188. Masterful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnificent hotpots, donburi dishes, and woodenbucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ✿ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelbyville Rd., 897-1017. New owners continue the tradition at this longstanding St. Matthews restaurant, featuring both traditional Chinese-American and now, authentic Cantonese, menus. $ p ✿ ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A long-time area favorite in this heavy traffic lunch area. This establishment is quite good with Lo Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ ✿ PANDA CHINESE RESTAURANT 9543 U.S. 42., 228-6400. $ ✿ PEKING CITY BISTRO 12410 Shelbyville Rd., 2536777. A step up from the usual Chinese hot table fare. Chef Chen, highly thought of in the Chinese community, runs the kitchen. $ h ✿ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ✿ RED SUN CHINESE RESTAURANT 499-7788, 3437 Breckinridge Ln. $ ✿ ROYAL GARDEN 5729 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 5316 Bardstown Rd., 491-8228. $ ✿ SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 4266767. Another Asian restaurant that has stood the test of time, Sichuan Garden offers high-end Chinatown style and well-made dishes, plus a few Thai specialties to spice up the bill of fare. $ ✿ TEA STATION CHINESE BISTRO 9422 Norton Commons Blvd., 423-1202. This comfortable, sitdown Chinese restaurant owned and operated by Paul and Amy Yang joins the small but growing cluster of businesses in the Norton Commons village center. $$ f ✿ UMAI ZUSHI BUFFET 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 3298181. $ ✿ WOK EXPRESS 234 W. Broadway, 583-8988. $ ✿ WONTON EXPRESS 3000 Hikes Ln., 452-2646. Traditional Chinese fare. Family-owned-and-operated, this popular neighborhood establishment has enjoyed a steady patronage for seventeen years. $ ✿ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 426-0800. This locally owned and operated Oxmoor spot is colorful and stylish. It offers an intriguing array of appealing noodle and rice dishes from all over Asia with fast-food efficiency and prices happily matched by sit-down restaurant quality and style. $ f ✿ YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ ✿ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-8313, 827 Eastern Blvd., Clarksville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $ ✿ YUMMY WOK 1801 Priority Way., 266-5801. $ h ✿ 74 Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com

SARI SARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2339 Frankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s sole Filipino eatery offers a tasty introduction to the Malayo-Polynesian fare of this Southeast Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buffet. $

ASAHI JAPANESE 3701 Lexington Rd., 895-1130. This small room in a new St. Matthews building houses this neighborhood sushi spot where awardwinning Chef Yong Bong Tak, formerly of Osaka, works his magic at the sushi bar. $ ✿ BEIJING GRILL AND SUSHI BAR 8007 Hwy. 311, Sellersburg IN, 248-0900. $ ✿ BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 217 S. Fifth St., 581-0700. Adding international flair to its downtown neighborhood, Bendoya Sushi Bar is a genuine, serious sushi bar in a storefront just across the street from the courthouse. $ ✿ CAVIAR JAPANESE RESTAURANT 416 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 625-3090. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) CHOI’S ASIAN FOOD MARKET 607 Lyndon Ln., 426-4441. This suburban Asian grocery now serves hot table fare to enjoy between shopping. $ ✿ DRAGON KING’S DAUGHTER 1126 Bardstown Rd., 632-2444. Owner Toki Masubuchi‘s audacious take on fusion cuisine seems to have hit a nerve at this popular new café at the corner of Bardstown Road and Elmwood. The eclectic and somewhat funky menu builds on traditional Japanese ingredients with unexpected twists:, pizza topped with sashimi, and tacos filled with avocado tempura. $pf✿ FUJI ASIAN BISTRO 6801 Dixie Hwy., 937-0488. $$ p ✿ FUJI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurst Blvd., 339-1978, 12905 Shelbyville Rd., 253-0036. Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get to watch the chef at work. Put in your order, then sit back and sip your tea while the artist creates edible delights. This suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ✿ HANABI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 6027 Timber Ridge Dr., 228-8244. A hospitable welcome, casual setting, and well-fashioned sushi and Japanese specialties have made this family run Prospect spot a worthy alternative in the East End dining scene. $$ p ✿ HIKO A MON SUSHI BAR 1115 Herr Ln., 365-1651. Japanese-trained sushi chef Norihiko Nakanashi has earned quite a local following at Shogun. Now he brings his sushi knives to this sushi bar and Japanese grill in Westport Village. In addition to fine dining at the bar or in traditional Japanese dining rooms, Hiko A Mon offers sushi-grade fish from a small fish market. $$$ p ✿ ICHIBAN SAMURAI 1510 Lake Shore Ct., 412-3339. This large Japanese-farmhouse building, originally a Benihana, offers similar delights, with the traditional slice-and-dice food show and good sushi. Best deal, while the offer lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p ✿ KANSAI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-9538. Traditional Japanese dishes and sushi are available here, but like most Japanese Steakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slice-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p ✿ KOBE STEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 280-8500. Southern Indiana’s first serious Japanese restaurant is drawing crowds with its exceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p ✿

RED = ADVERTISER

MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not just another sushi bar, cool and stylish Maido is Louisville’s first and only “izakaya”-style restaurant in the style of Kansai, the region surrounding Japan’s second city, Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f ✿ MIDORI JAPANESE RESTAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Japanese fare joins the options in the Whittington Parkway/Hurstbourne area with the arrival of this new venue. Expect Japanese standards — udon soup, teriyaki beef and sukiyaki — along with sushi. $$ p ✿ MIKATO JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE 3938 Dupont Circle, 891-0081. An upscale hibachi grillhouse in the popular restaurant ring in the Breckinridge Lane — Dupont Circle area. Pleasant decor, entertaining grill chefs, fresh sushi preparations, and sometimes glacial service. $$ p f h ✿ OASIS JAPANESE RESTAURANT 3311 Preston Hwy., 375-8766. Owners of downtown’s Bendoya sushi restaurant have opened this Japanese restaurant on Preston Highway. $$ h ✿ OISHII SUSHI 2245 Bardstown Rd., 618-2829. This small, attractive Highlands spot, operated by sushi chefs who’ve put in time at the popular Sapporo, has been attracting raves from neighborhood sushi lovers. $$ ✿ OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501, 426 W. Market St., 588-8899. This long-standing Clifton favorite has opened a second location downtown, serving up sushi and other Japanese dishes in a bright and cheery environment to a loyal clientele. $$ ✿ SAKE BLUE JAPANESE BISTRO 9326 Cedar Center Way, 708-1500. This Fern Creek restaurant brings the “full-service” Japanese restaurant experience to the southeast part of Louisville Metro. Look for hibachi grill tables and a sushi bar, along with a traditional dining room and cocktail bar. $$ p h ✿ SAKURA BLUE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 897-3600. Located in elegant, upscale quarters in a St. Matthews shopping center, Sakura Blue — direct descendant of the old, popular Bonsai — ranks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$ ✿ SAPPORO JAPANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 479-5550, 649 S. Fourth St., 589-3333. With its original location in the middle of Bardstown Road’s “restaurant row,” trendy, glitzy Sapporo has established itself as one of the city’s top spots for sushi and Japanese fare. Now it has a second location downtown in a beautifully designed space in Theater Square off Broadway. $$$ p h ✿ SHOGUN JAPANESE STEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 499-5700, 4110 Hampton Lake Way, 3940123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality food and service make it a pleasant dining destination. It’s unthreatening enough to appeal to those who find exotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough to satisfy just about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p ✿ TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339-7171. It’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serves excellent Japanese treats, prepared with care and flair from highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$ ✿ WASABIYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 972 Baxter Ave., 618-2460. A neighborhood sushi bar, with a chef from Boston with fusion cuisine intentions. Look for some unusual items, like the sake kinuta, salmon wrapped in marinated daikon radish with a citrus sauce, or a fatty tuna carpaccio with white wine reduction and ponzu sauce. $$ h ✿ WILD GINGER SUSHI & FUSION 1700 Bardstown Rd., 384-9252. The old Café Metro space did not molder long—this sushi and Asian fusion spot has

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been pulling in intrigued customers who admire the sushi bar up front, and explore the pan-Asian menu.Standard Japanese entrees are joined with specials from Korea (bibim bop) China (Sichuanstyle crispy tofu) and Thailand (pad Thai and curries). $$ p h ✿

KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’s few restaurants devoted entirely to authentic Korean fare, Koreana is worth a special trip for this ethnic cuisine that offers a hearty, spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ ✿ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 456-9714. This little spot has been a secret since the ’70s, and it just keeps on going. Walk into what looks like a diner in an office building, but push past the counter to the back room, where you’ll find generous heaps of really authentic Korean food for next to nothing. $$ ✿

BD’S MONGOLIAN GRILL 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 499-4406. The proprietors of this Michiganbased East End chain invite you to “go Mongo,” building your own choice of ingredients and sauces for the chefs to stir-fry. $$ p ✿ SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stony Brook Shopping Center, 493-0234, 423 E. Warnock St., 409-5029. Thirteenth Century Mongol warriors used to turn their steel shields to use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Shah’s carries their spirit forward. This all-you-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p ✿

but well-prepared Thai fare. Don’t ask for the fivechile-pepper heat unless you really mean it! $ ✿ THAI TASTE 1977 Brownsboro Rd., 897-7682. The owner-host of this friendly, casual spot in Crescent Hill had a restaurant in Bangkok before moving to Louisville, and his experience shows. The warmth of his welcome — and the quality of the food — make Thai Taste special. $ ✿ TRUE THAI 8125 Bardstown Rd., 231-1992. A bright, attractive little place (just 4 tables) run by a former employee of Thai-Siam, one of Louisville’s longest running Thai restaurants. 30 standard Thai dishes (pad thai, curries, fried rice) priced under $10. $ ✿

ANNIE CAFE 308 W. Woodlawn, 363-4847. Annie Cafe ranks not just as one of the better Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when value and price are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ ✿ CAFÉ MIMOSA 1543 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259. A fire last winter gutted the former location to the walls, but resourceful owner Phat Le recently reopened in the old Lentini’s building and is once again serving his Vietnamese, Chinese and panAsian dishes to happy regulars. $ p h ✿ CAFÉ THUY VAN 5600 National Turnpike, 366-6959. A bit off the beaten track, this South End spot is true, authentic Vietnamese. Friendly service overcomes any language barrier, and prices are hard to beat. Don’t miss the Banh Mi, traditional Vietnamese sandwiches. $ ✿ LA QUE 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981. La Que provides the lower Highlands with a dependable, economical Vietnamese menu that includes some dishes from other Asian cuisines. $ f h ✿

LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 11606 Shelbyville Rd., 2447110. Lemongrass Café offers an appealing blend of Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese fare in a simple setting that transcends an obviously low budget with style and grace. $ h ✿ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Strawberry Ln., 375-9249. Tiny and lovably cozy, this six-table South End spot is true authentic Vietnamese, and so are the proprietors. There’s some language barrier, but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ ✿ SAIGON CAFÉ 108 Fairfax Ave., 893-7757. The former Lemongrass Café changed ownership and its name (twice), but continues to serve up tasty and inexpensive Southeast Asian fare in the heart of St. Matthews. Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes are on the menu. $$ ✿ VIETNAM KITCHEN 5339 Mitscher Ave., 363-5154. This little South End storefront is well worth seeking out. The chef goes beyond the ordinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. We have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the food or service. $ ✿ ZEN GARDEN 2240 Frankfort Ave., 895-9114. Vegetarians with a philosophical bent have found a combination guru and den mother in Zen Garden’s owner Coco, who serves up sincere and soulful Asian vegan dishes.$ f ✿

BOSNA-MAK 3825 Old Bardstown Rd., 456-1919. Friendly and exceptionally hospitable, familyowned BosnaMak celebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a few culinary additions from their time in Germany. $ f ✿

MAI’S THAI RESTAURANT 1411 E. Tenth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic Thai dishes, Mai’s is the eatery to beat among the metro area’s Thai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality, it’s right up there with the top Thai places in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ ✿ SIMPLY THAI 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9670. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wife, a classically trained chef, is Thai. They’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, offering a small menu of traditional Thai dishes, well-made sushi and a few upscale Thai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f ✿ TAN THAI RESTAURANT 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-2012. It’s in a strip mall, but the folks who run TanThai create a distinctive atmosphere by hanging sheer white scrims that divvy the room up into serene little chambers. The menu of Thai specialties is small — just a dozen or so entrées — but nicely executed and beautifully presented. $ ✿ THAI CAFÉ 2226 Holiday Manor, 425-4815. You’ll find this small café tucked into a corner of the “Holiday Manor Walk.” Owner Chavantee Snow and her family offer a small but well-prepared selection of authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. $ ✿ THAI ORCHIDS 9114 Taylorsville Rd. (Stony Brook Shopping Center), 493-4073. This location has been known for good Thai restaurants, and the short history of Thai Orchids shows that they have picked up the mantle, providing Jeffersontown-area lovers of southeast Asian cuisine with excellent noodles and curries. $$ ✿ THAI SIAM 3002 Bardstown Rd., 458-6871. Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a loyal audience over the years, perhaps responding to its regular visitors’ preferences with food that’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ ✿ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. Part of a regional mini-chain, Thai Smile 5 serves up simple

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fun”) decorates its pubs with authentic furnishings from Ireland. $$$ p f e h ✿ EIDERDOWN 983 Goss Ave., 636-0749. The owners of the Germantown watering hole Nachbar also operate the popular Eiderdown, serving Southern comfort food influenced by the owners’ German and European heritage. Dreams of a microbrewery there also dance in their heads; in the meantime, diners are satisfied with a large selection of European craft beers on tap. $$

SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919, 4521 Bardstown Rd., 493-3585. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood tavern), Irish-accented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. Now with a second location out in Buechel. $pfeh✿

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 499-8822. For a city with a strong German heritage, Louisville is woefully short on authentic German restaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fastfood quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$

ADRIENNE’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. A part of the dining renaissance on the sunny side of Louisville, Adrienne’s has been pleasing Indiana diners with home-style Italian dishes. The owners also operate Adrienne’s Bakery in Jeffersonville. $$ f ✿

GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. Michael and Annemarie Greipel came here with their five kids in 1993, straight from North RhineWestphalia to St. Matthews. Tiny lights twinkle from strands of fake red geraniums. But the hearty German fare — schnitzels, sauerbraten and rouladen with red cabbage and dumplings — is the real thing. $$$

AMICI 316 W. Ormsby Ave., 637-3167. Scott and Sharon Risinger serve satisfying traditional Tuscan dishes in this interesting — and supposedly haunted — Old Louisville building. Dine inside or on the romantic patio on a lovely summer evening, There’s no extra charge if the ghosts want to share your penne alla Lorenzo or Valpolicella. $$ p f ✿ ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr., 326-5555. $ ✿

BRENDAN O’SHEA’S OF ST. MATTHEWS 3921 Shelbyville Rd., 895-1212. This St. Matthew outpost of the O’Shea’s Irish bar empire reeks with atmosphere. The brick walls look aged, the wood weathered and photos of old St. Matthews line the walls. Irish and non-Irish love the bar and the menu has daily specials, like the leprechaun hangover burger, catfish po’ boy and bison and goat cheese lasagna. $$ p e h ✿ IRISH EXIT 209 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 9441929. Filling the spot recently vacated by Studio’s Grille and Pub, The Irish Exit (a tongue-in-cheek name referring to the quiet, no-farewell leave-taking of inebriated Hibernians) serves pub fare and entertains patrons with karaoke and acoustic music, pool tables and dart boards. $ p h IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGrange, 222-2286. Owner Michael Reidy is the Irish rover, having come to the U.S. from County Clare in 1984. His saloons are as smooth as Guinness, as warm as fish and chips, as genuine as Scotch eggs. The Frankfort Avenue building dates from 1859. $ p f ✿ MOLLY MALONE’S 933 Baxter Ave., 473-1222, 3900 Shelbyville Rd., 882-2222. A carefully constructed replica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s, a worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking scene, has added a second, suburban location. Both are as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e h ✿ O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxter Ave., 589-7373. One of the most popular watering holes in the entire Bardstown-Baxter corridor. Twenty-somethings and Louisville belles love its action. But diners of all ages like its meat loaf, roast beef and Irish stew. When music fills the rooms, it’s great to be Irish, even if you’re not. $$ p f e h ✿ PATRICK O’SHEA’S 123 W. Main St., 708-2488. This newest downtown creation of the Flanagan’s/ O’Shea’s pub mini-empire has beautifully refurbished one of the old warehouses just east of the new stadium, anticipating the revival of that edge of the Main Street corridor. Crowds have been elbowing in for upscale Irish-inflected bar food and plenty of sports talk. $$ p f e h ✿ RI RA IRISH PUB 445 S. Fourth St. (Fourth Street Live) 587-1825. Promising patrons “an authentic Irish experience,” this growing chain is ensconced in a sizable 9,000-square-foot space in Fourth Street Live. Ri Ra (Gaelic for “celebration and good

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BISTRO 42 6021 Timber Ridge Dr., 632-2552. Another entry in the dining choices at Prospect Village shopping center. This little family-run place, serving pasta, sandwiches and Italian and American dishes is proud of its 5-cheese 3-meat Bistro lasagna and their 3-hour honey-baked ham, offered at an attractive price. $$ h ✿ BUCA DI BEPPO 2051 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca scene is fun, a conscious parody of the exuberant decor of family ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p ✿ CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Not your ordinary suburban shopping-center franchise eatery. This place dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality olive oil to first-rate ItalianAmerican fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f ✿ COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeffersonville IN, 285-1777. With both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, Come Back Inn looks pretty much like any other neighborhood saloon. But unlike most Louisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a family Italian spot that wouldn’t be out of place in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p ✿ COZZA OSTERIA ENOTECA 214 Court Ave., Jeffersonville IN, 284-4406. Italian fusion cuisine is what owner Al Papsodero is offering in the pleasant space that once housed Timothy’s. That’s the kind of Italian cooking done in Brooklyn, Al’s hometown. Sample dishes: chicken Modena, salmon piccatta, fennel-roasted organic pork loin, rigatoni pomodoro. $$ f p h ✿ DIFABIO’S CASAPELA 2311 Frankfort Ave., 891-0411. Ray Parrella’s is gone, but almost immediately DiFabio’s Casapela snuck into the old Crescent Hill space, with a menu that harks back to the redchecked tablecloth and Chianti bottle era of Italian restaurants. Look for baked stuffed mushrooms and toasted ravioli, veal parmesan and chicken piccatta, and your choice of pastas with your choice of sauce. $$ f ✿ THE INTERNATIONAL MALL 737 S. Eighth St., 561-8871. $ ✿ LA BOCCA 132 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 7259495. A new addition to the dining explosion in New Albany, La Bocca has moved into the site of the former Conner’s Place, serving Italian cuisine, such as chicken piccata and rigatoni Bolognese. Zeppole on

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the dessert menu bespeaks the New York bono fides of the owner. $$ f p ✿ LA GALLO ROSSO BISTRO 1325 Bardstown Rd., 4730015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alley serves casual Italian and Continental food in a cozy family-style setting. $$ f MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 394-9797. The successful formula of this Ohiobased chain features hearty and well-fashioned Italian entrées, pastas and pizzas served up in a comfortable approximation of a Tuscan trattoria. An open kitchen with wood-fired oven gives a peek at the culinary goings-on. $$$ p f h ✿ MOZZ MOZZARELLA BAR & ENOTECA 445 E. Market St., 690-6699. (See review under Fine Dining.) OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original ventures of this national firm. Bright and noisy, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p h ✿ THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9730 Von Allmen Ct., 425-3607, 4805 Outer Loop, 968-2978, 1230 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Darden chain, Olive Garden now operates more than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian restaurant in the casual dining industry. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauces, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme. $$ p ✿ PESTO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offices for blocks around empty into this bustling Italian eatery for weekday lunches featuring hearty platters of lasagna, zesty salads, red wine and iced tea. On Saturdays, the kitchen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ ✿ PORCINI 2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686. This anchor trattoria of the Crescent Hill dining scene has been serving up risotto, ossobuco and bistecca since 1992. Crowds wait at the popular bar for one of the tables — or just wait at the bar. $$$ p ✿ ROCKY’S SUB PUB 715 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3844. (See review under Pizza.) $ p f ✿ ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-9220. The Italian-style menu at this casual, Dallas-based family chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p ✿ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Outer Loop, 969-5545, 4510 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5400. Baked pasta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ ✿ STEVE-O’S ITALIAN KITCHEN 4205 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner well worth a special trip out from the city. $$ f ✿ TUSCANY ITALIAN RESTAURANT 165 Outer Loop, 363-0308. Adding an appetizing option to a stretch of the South End that hasn’t been over-served by restaurants, this good-sized storefront near New Cut Road boasts a Mexican chef who demonstrates an expert’s hand with hearty, red-sauced ItalianAmerican fare at a price that’s right. $$ h ✿ VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580-1350. (See listing under Upscale Casual.) $$$$ p e h ✿ VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatra, pasta with tomato sauce and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a notch. With a combination of Italian standards and monthly menu updates, Chef Josh Moore and host Majid Ghavami have secured Volare as the city’s top spot for suave Italian dining. The recent addition of U.S.D.A. Prime barrel-cut beef program has been receiving rave reviews. $$$ p f ✿

DE LA TORRE’S 1606 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Authentic Castilian fare includes a majestic paella. but the renewed focus at this Highlands standby is tapas, in such variety that you can have anything on the menu in small-plates form. $$$ ✿ LA BODEGA 1604 Bardstown Rd., 456-4955. Nextdoor to the excellent De La Torre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega offers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-style tapas bar, featuring the small bites originally invented in the outdoor cafés of Jerez. $$ p f h ✿ LA COLOMBIANA 808 Lyndon Ln., 742-1179. Colombian cuisine is a variant of Latino cooking new to the area. Many of the dishes at this Lyndonarea restaurant feature the arepa, a thick corn cake, including huevos pericos conrepa, a brunch dish. Look for plenty of beef on the menu, including lengua, tongue. Friendly service and no language barrier. $$ p ✿ MOJITO TAPAS RESTAURANT 2231 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 425-0949. An offshoot of the popular St. Matthews Cuban restaurant Havana Rumba, Mojitos quickly established its own identity as the East End spot for Spanish-inspired small plates with a global taste profile. Always crowded on weekends; no reservations, but call ahead to get high on the waiting list. $ p f h ✿ PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bardstown Rd., 456-6461. Louisville’s best source for authentic Argentine cooking: lots of beef (and chicken) slow-cooked over charcoal and Latin versions of Italian dishes, like chicken Milanesa. Palermo Viejo is the Little Italy of Buenos Aires, hometown of owner Francisco Elbl’s father. $$ p f ✿

BOMBAY GRILL 216 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4258892. With its broad array of Indian regional specialties including the requisite lunch buffet, this spot in The Forum on Hurstbourne is winning praise for its aromatic flavors and bountiful portions. $$ ✿ DAKSHIN INDIAN RESTAURANT 4742 Bardstown Rd., 491-7412. Owned and operated by the same family that brings us Kashmir Restaurant and Bombay Grocery in the Highlands, this addition brings aromatic and spicy Southern Indian fare to the Buechel-Fern Creek neighborhood in the Eastland Shopping Center. $$ ✿ KASHMIR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1285 Bardstown Rd., 473-8765. One of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian fare. $$ f ✿ LITTLE INDIA CAFÉ 3099 Breckenridge Ln., 4793353. It’s sort of an Indian fast-food place, set up in a former Quizno’s. The menu includes appetizers such as lentil soup and mirchi bajji — fried lentilbattered stuffed peppers — followed by Northern lamb and vegetarian entrées, tandoori chicken and kebabs. There’s also a selection of Indian breads. A Punjabi-style (Northern Indian) lunch buffet is for those who want really fast service. $ ✿ SHALIMAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1820 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriarch of local Indian restaurants. With a substantial lunch buffet and a full range of dinner items, it has built a loyal clientele. $$ p ✿ SITAR INDIAN RESTAURANT 1702 Bardstown Rd., 473-8889. Named after the Indian stringed musical instrument that Ravi Shankar made famous, Sitar features a full Indian menu and buffet. It’s the first Louisville property for a tiny new chain with four places in Tennessee and one in Alabama. $$ ✿

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TAJ PALACE 2929 Goose Creek Rd., 423-9692. The owners of the old India Palace have opened a new restaurant in the space vacated by the Goose Creek outlet of Seviche. Focused on Northern Indian cuisine, the menu offers a wide range of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Spiciness can be decided by the customer. Lunch buffet and dinner menu. $$ ✿

A.J.’S GYRO CAFÉ 9280 IN 64, Georgetown, IN, 951-1715. A recent name change now reflects what this Southern Indiana eatery has always done well, serving up authentic Greek gyros and side dishes. Open April through November only. $ f ✿ AL WATAN 3713 Klondike Ln., 454-4406. Classic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a destination for lovers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ h ✿ BURNING BUSH GRILLE & MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 13206 W. U.S. Highway 42, 228-7776. A franchisee of the popular Shiraz local mini-chain has struck off on his own, cooking healthy Mediterranean foods — kebabs, steak, fish and lamb, salads, pizza, gyros and Balkan burgers. $ f ✿ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bardstown Rd., 473-8694. The latest in a long series of eateries in this pleasant Highland’s building offers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biryani in immediate juxtaposition. You can get it all, dinerstyle, just about 24/7. $ p f h ✿ CAPTAIN PEPPER JACK’S AERO BISTRO 2810 Taylorsville Rd., 454-2777. The name, the travel posters, the location near Bowman Field all contribute to the aeronautical mood. The menu itself flies all over the world, too, from Americanstyle fried chicken and bar food to Caribbean plantains with mango marmalade to Middle Eastern kabobs and gyros. $$ p h ✿ CASPIAN GRILL PERSIAN BISTRO 1416 Bardstown Rd., 365-3900. Joining the growing ranks of Louisville’s Persian restaurants, this small Highlands dining room is gaining good word-of-mouth for well-prepared food and cordial service. $ ✿ THE FALAFEL HOUSE 1001 Bardstown Rd., 4544407. This small Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and affordable sustenance along the Bardstown-Baxter entertainment strip. Look for the usual Middle Eastern fare in a casual, quick-service setting. $$ f h ✿ GRAPE LEAF 2217 Frankfort Ave., 897-1774. Relatively recent renovations and an expanded menu have elevated the Grape Leaf to destination status, placing it well above the generic Middle Eastern eatery niche. Prices remain affordable, while the food and mood now justify a special trip. $$ f ✿ ISTANBUL CAFÉ 1511 Bardstown Rd., 742-6680. Ahmet Kunt, of Istanbul Palace on Goose Creek Road, has added a casual eatery, in the space that formerly housed Pizza Roma. Look for lahmacun, a Turkish flat bread topped with meat, and a variety of “pita-pizzas,” including one topped with falafel and hummus. $$ h ✿ ISTANBUL PALACE 2840 Goose Creek Rd.,425-6060. Turkish cuisine comes to suburban Louisville. Many dishes will be familiar, for the eastern Mediterranean populations share a lot of culinary ideas. You’ll find pita and hummus and lentil soup, gyros, falafel, taboulleh and baba ghanoush. But also mujver (zucchini fritters) and iskender and doner (variations on kebabs) and other truly Turkish foods, such as cigarette pie — phyllo pastry rolled around tangy feta cheese and herbs and deep-fried. $$ f h ✿

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PETRA MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT 3904 Bardstown Rd., 749-0924. Another addition to the ethnic choices out in Beuchel. As with many “Mediterranean” restaurants around, the fare is largely confined to that of the Levant schwarmas and hummus and felafel. $$ ✿ PITA DELIGHTS 1616 Grinstead Dr., 569-1122. This Near Eastern eatery in the Highlands offers a splendid mix of gyros, felafel and other pita-based goodies. $ f ✿ PITA HUT 1613 Bardstown Rd., 409-8484. After its expansion more than doubled the space in this once-tiny spot, more diners can enjoy Mediterranean-Middle Eastern favorites, as well as the addition of a few “American” sandwiches — on fresh pita, of course. $ ✿ PITA PIT 9816 Linn Station Rd., 565-1220. A franchise operation dedicated to cramming all sorts of fillings into a flatbread pocket. Chomp on a chicken Caesar pita, or a Philly steak pita. Many veggie selections, from garden vegetables to falafel to hummus and baba ganoush. They’re open for breakfast too: ham ’n’ eggs and sausage scramble to go. $ h ✿ SAFFRON’S 131 W. Market St., 584-7800. Although Majid Ghavami has sold his interest in his downtown Persian restaurant, he sold it to Reza and Mimi Dabbagh, (she also co-owns August Moon), who are keeping on most of the staff and continuing with the popular menu: rack of lamb, roasted duck fesenjoon, salomon and kebabs. $$$ p ✿ SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. Fourth St., 585-1125. You can get standard American fare at this welcoming downtown quick-eats spot, but who’d do that when you can enjoy such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f ✿ SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2011 Frankfort Ave., 891-8854, 2226 Holiday Manor, 426-9954, 201 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-3440, 3521 Poplar Level Rd., 632-2232. Offering authentic Persian (Iranian) cooking, Shiraz quickly grew out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful storefront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; now it is expanding into a local mini-chain. In all its locations, Shiraz shines with char-grilled kebabs, fine pitas and lavish bread. $ ✿ ZAYTUN MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2286 Bardstown Rd., 365-1788. Fine, freshly prepared seafood is part of the draw in this upper Highlands Middle Eastern eatery—excellent gyros kick it up a notch. $ h ✿ ZOE’S KITCHEN 500 W. Jefferson St., 585-0000, 4126 Summit Plaza Dr., 329-8963. This chain has been growing throughout the South and Southwest, and now comes twice to Louisville. An eclectic menu offers kabobs, hummus, quesadillas, roll-ups, pita sandwiches and chicken, tuna and shrimp salads. $ ✿

J. GUMBO’S 2109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 531 Lyndon Lane, 425-0096, Fourth Street Live, 5899245, 3115 S. Second St., 363-8888, 8603 Citadel Way, 493-4720, 3017 Poplar Level Rd., 690-8080, 9202 Hwy. 42, 228-7100. Former jockey Billy Fox has created a popular minichain serving hearty, affordable Cajun cuisine. After a stint focusing on expansion, he is now back in the saddle and in the kitchen again, to the delight of his fans. The drunken chicken is addictive. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426-1320. Fine, filling and authentic Louisiana-style fare is the draw at Joe’s. A lengthy menu and bayou fishing-shack decor showcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p RED = ADVERTISER

SELENA’S AT WILLOW LAKE TAVERN 10609 LaGrange Rd., 245-9004. Owner Alan Salmon has brought his Cajun/Creole food and Tampa Bay experience to the old Willow Lake Tavern. The restoration and renovation were extensive, turning this Anchorage roadhouse into a roomy and inviting restaurant. Shrimp or fish with Manale sauce is a tribute to Pascal Manale’s in New Orleans. $$ p f h

COCOS LOKOS CARIBBEAN CUISINE 1850 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 365-1777. You can find a taste of the Caribbean islands here: mofongo from Puerto Rico (grilled chicken over plantains), lechon adobado (Cuban roast pork), tostones, yucca, sweet potato fries and dishes with a Dominican accent. Chill out with tropical cocktails at the bar. $$ p e ✿ CUBANA RESTAURANT 2206 Frankfort Ave., 409-4828. The long-vacant space once occupied by Danielle’s now offers another outlet for Cuban food, a growing segment of the ethnic offerings in town. Usimg local, seasonal food sources, the menu offers weekly specials that tap into the larger Caribbean/Central American food traditions.$ p ✿ HABANA BLUES CUBAN TAPAS RESTAURANT 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-9760. Another choice for Cuban Caribbean food, Habana Blues is the newest tenant in the one-time New Albany Inn, previously the location of Bistro New Albany. The extensive Cuban menu has a few international dishes, too, and a nice selection of tapas. Also a half-dozen bocaditos (sandwiches) and a few dinner dishes such as paella Valenciana and arroz con pollo. $$ p ✿ HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959, 12003 Shelbyville Rd., 244-5375. A true taste of Old Havana, this bright, inviting and consistently busy Cuban restaurant has opened a second location, in Middletown, in the strip mall location formerly occupied by Pig City BBQ. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as any in Key West or Miami, not to mention a hopping mojito bar, have earned Havana Rumba a place on our short list of local favorites. $ p f ✿

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 4014 Dutchmans Ln., 899-9600, 1907-C S. Fourth St., 899-9746. A downtown location joins its Dupont Circle sibling, offering fine fish tacos and simple fast-food Mexican fare in an inexpensive, casual atmosphere. $ f ✿ DON PABLO’S 940 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Based in Atlanta, this Mexican-American chain, offers full bar service and a variety of dishes that range from sizzling fajitas to crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p ✿ EL BURRITO DE ORO 1927 Greentree Blvd., Clarksville IN, 285-8820. $ ✿ EL CAPORAL 2209 Meadow Dr., 473-7840, 1901 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 515 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 282-7174. Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has fostered a happy trend: excellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p ✿ EL MUNDO 2345 Frankfort Ave., 899-9930. This crowded, noisy little Crescent Hill storefront offers creative renditions of Mexican regional specialties that make most diners want to yell “Olé!” The setting may lack the trendy flair of Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill in Chicago, but the fare mines a similar vein and does so nearly as well. $ p f ✿ EL NOPAL (16 Locations) These locally owned restaurants have become a growing mini-chain, winning popularity on the basis of delicious,

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authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in comfortable surroundings. $ p f ✿ EL NOPALITO 4028 Taylorsville Rd., 458-7278, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-4249. This modest little eatery used to be a Taco Bell, but you’ll never find comidas like this at the Bell! Run by a family from Mexico, it’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f ✿ EL REY MEXICAN RESTAURANT 2918 Hikes Ln., 454-6520. Although it’s more Mexican-American than hard-core ethnic Mexican, El Rey earns our recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a pleasant fast-Mexican-food environment, and affordable prices. $ f ✿ EL RODEO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American classics from salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ ✿ EL SOMBRERO 2784 Meijer St, Jeffersonville IN, 2850109. An Indianapolis restaurant group has taken over the old Bearno’s near Meijer in J’ville, and opened this “Americanized Mexican” restaurant. $ p ✿ EL TARASCO 5425 New Cut Rd., 368-5628, 110 Fairfax Ave., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 3269373, 9606 Taylorsville Rd., 297-8003. Add El Tarasco to the happy new genre of restaurants run by Latinos and offering authentic Mexican food and atmosphere, but that reach out to Anglos and make it easy to enjoy a South-of-the-Border culinary adventure without compromise. $ p ✿ EL TORO CANTINA & GRILL 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 491-7272, 10602 Shelbyville Rd., 4893839. One of the top Mexican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns our recommendation for food, service and environment. Tex-Mex dishes are fine, but save room for the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ✿ ERNESTO’S 10430 Shelbyville Rd., 244-8889, 4632A S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-5291. One of the first of the more authentic locally-owned Mexican restaurant groups, Ernesto’s remains consistently reliable. From the crispy home-fried chips to filling Mexican main courses and tasty desserts, it’s a worthy destination for good Mexican food and excellent value. $ p f e ✿

only. Family owners and chefs Pat and Esperanza Costas and Ofelia Ortiz are completely bilingual, and as friendly as can be. $ f ✿ LOLITA’S TACOS 4222 Poplar Level Rd., 459-4356. This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the food is about as authentic Mexican as you’ll find. Crisp or soft tacos and burritos the size of paper-towel rolls turn a meal here into a real bargain. $ f ✿ LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 426-3994, 9207 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-2450. Authentic Mexican cuisine has become a viable option in Louisville, thanks to a growing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender offerings, creative appetizers and comfortable seating, Los Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p ✿ MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Market St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán has returned to his original location in the burgeoning NuLu gallery district, and updated it into a stylish bistro. The distinctive cuisine, from Ucán’s native Yucatan Peninsula, treats pork, scallops, mussels and even lima beans memorably. $$ ✿ MEXICAN FIESTA 4507 Bardstown Rd., 491-2922 $ MEXICO TIPICO RESTAURANT 6517 Dixie Hwy., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 253-9828. One of the region’s first authentic Mexican eateries, Mexico Tipico has built a loyal following in for good Mexican food and friendly, fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e ✿ MEXICO VIEJO 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 893-9880. $ ✿ MY PATRIA 808 Lyndon Ln., 339-9420. $ ✿ PINA FIESTA REAL MEXICAN GRILL 7895 Dixie Hwy., 995-6775. Fans of Mexican food have another place to try, out along the wide, wide highway. You won’t find anything new here, but they say it will be real. $ p ✿

PUERTO VALLARTA 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-3588, 125 Quartermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022, 7814 Beulah Curch Rd., 239-4646. $$ p ✿ QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL (11 locations). This chain operation extends from Louisville to Frankfort and Lexington. Fast-foodish in style, Qdoba edges out its competitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ✿ ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898. Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Preston looks like another tacqueria but the specialty, Mexican-style roasted chicken, takes it to another level, juicy and succulent and roasted golden brown. Chicken simply doesn’t get any better than this. $ ✿ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p ✿ SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. Third St., 634-3722. This tiny eatery in a century-old red-brick South End storefront near Churchill Downs never fails to satisfy with genuine Mexican tacos and other simple fare at prices that will leave you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ ✿ SEÑOR IGUANA’S 1415 Broadway St., Clarksville, IN, 280-8555, 3105 S. Second St., 368-0876, 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 425-4581. These three MexicanAmerican eateries are known for their hearty, well-prepared Mexican food, and plenty of it, in a casually laid-back, comfortable sports-bar atmosphere. $ p f ✿ SOL AZTECAS 2427 Bardstown Road, 459-7776, 2350 Frankfort Ave., 895-3333, 520 S. Fourth St., 315-0666, 129 W. Main St. Saul Garcia is expanding his newer chain (he also runs Los Aztecas) onto the W. Main corridor, a block or so from the Yum! Center. Expect a broader Mexican menu, familiar dishes, along with some pleasant surprises. $ p h ✿

FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL 11320 Maple Brook Dr., 425-9144, 8133 Bardstown Rd., 231-2444. $ p ✿ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be Louisville’s most startling case of an eatery that is more than it appears to be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fast-foodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $ h ✿ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ ✿ LA ROSITA MEXICAN GRILL 336 Pearl St., New Albany, IN, 944-3620. Popularity with patrons happy to eat the authentic traditional Mexican fare at this Southern Indiana restaurant has led to their recent move to a huge space in downtown, nearer the action in the New Albany restaurant renaissance. The Grant Line spot provides quick but fine taqueria fare. $ f ✿ LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 1404 Blackiston Mill Rd., Clarksville, IN, 284-1362. $ LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153, 3022 S. Third St., 638-0300. One of the most authentic ethnic Mexican restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront has opened a second location, both offering memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p ✿ LAS GORDITAS 4756 Bardstown Rd., 492-0112. As Louisville’s small but thriving Latino community grows, it’s now possible to enjoy an authentic Mexico City-style dining experience at this taco and gordita wagon that rolls up in the Eastland Shopping Center on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays

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TACO TICO 5925 Terry Rd., 449-9888, 7416 Preston Hwy., 969-0644, 2613 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 945-8226. Founded in Wichita in 1962, the same year as Taco Bell was born in Southern California, The Taco Tico chain has been gone from Louisville for more than a decade. Its happy return has been drawing remarkable crowds. $ ✿ TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 6201 Preston Hwy., 969-4449. The tacos are fine at this tiny storefront. This is seriously ethnic stuff, but Anglos are thoroughly welcome, the staff is bilingual, and they will happily provide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ ✿ THE TEQUILA FACTORY 917 Baxter Ave., 459-9191. The multi-level building on Baxter Ave.’s restaurant corridor has had a checkered history. Its newest incarnation is a bar and grill with an extensive list of tequilas, a tapas bar, and an economical lunch and dinner menu focusing on hearty, familiar Mexican dishes. $ p f e h ✿ YELLOW CACTUS 3620 Paoli Pk., Floyds Knobs, IN, 903-0313. A yellow neon cactus draws diners to this Indiana Tex-Mex restaurant that offers standard Mexican cantina fare, as well as steak and chicken in both American and Mexican styles, and a few seafood dishes. $ p h ✿

Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, (812) 288-6637, 9310 Cedar Center Way, 614-7722. The food may be more fast-food Mexican-American than authentic South-of-the-Border fare, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $ ✿ SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 285 N. Hubbards Ln., 897-5323. Another entry in the hot “Fresh Mexican” niche that features gigantic burritos made to order. Its colorful free-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ p f ✿ TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWEST GRILL (15 locations). Tumbleweed started as a humble Mexican restaurant in New Albany and eventually came to dominate Louisville’s Tex-Mex niche with colossal margaritas, gigantic burritos and spicy chili con queso. Southwestern fare adds steaks and grilled fare to the familiar Tex-Mex with a formula that continues to draw diners in droves, but the ’Weed doesn’t stray far from its roots. $$ p f h ✿

BEAN STREET CAFÉ 101 Lafollette Station, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1404. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, they’re not just an eatery, but a cultural hangout. $ f

CHUY’S 104 Oxmoor Center, 327-3033. The Austin, Texas “unchain,” with 22 properties, has its largest location in the old Bahama Breeze space, offering a complimentary happy hour nacho “car bar” set in the back end of a 50s era auto, plenty of Elvis memorabilia, and a wall of chihuahua photos. Oh, and Tex-Mex food at reasonable prices. $$ p f h

CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 895-0076. At first a coffee bar, but over the years the classy space at Clifton and Frankfort has matured into an elegant bistro serving an eclectic menu — salmon croquettes with wasabi aioli, empanadas, an international array of salads, panini, bocadillos and pizzas. A stylish place for lunch, or a hip stop for a late-night supper. $$ e h ✿

MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL 2001 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Breckinridge Ln., 8936637, 4652 Chamberlain Ln., 425-3330, 1020

COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633. $

COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f ✿ DAY’S ESPRESSO AND COFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456-1170. Dark and cozy, with an old-fashioned feeling, Day’s has everything you would expect in a college-neighborhood coffee shop except a college near by. $ f DERBY CITY ESPRESSO 331 E. Market St., 4420523. A highlight in Louisville’s roster of serious coffee shops, Derby City features quality coffee from several artisanal roasters, plus fine tea, pastries, and now craft beers. $ f e ✿ EXPRESSIONS OF YOU 1800 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-6886. $ f e ✿ GREEN ROOM COFFEE 3640 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-9396. Inside the Hurstbourne Music Center, music lovers can find music-themed breakfast dishes to fortify them as they shop for instruments or practice their craft. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 899-5551, 1295 Bardstown Rd., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0380, 118 Chenoweth Ln., 893-5103, 1449 Bardstown Rd., 454-5212, 4123 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9388, 3060 Bardstown Rd., 458-7770. Spartan, friendly and affordable, with good coffee roasted on the premises and a short list of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Bros. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND COFFEE CO. 1140 Bardstown Rd., 4514545. Offering two ways to get wired, this cozy neighborhood coffee shop also functions as one of Louisville’s top Internet cafés, where you can enjoy a hot cappuccino while you surf the ’net in a WiFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f HILLBILLY TEA 120 S. First St., 587-7350. (See review under Bistro / Contemporary.)

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THE HOBKNOBB ROASTING CO. 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1458, 419 State St., New Albany, IN, 944-4555. HobKnobb offers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f

CAKE FLOUR 909 E. Market St., 719-0172. This jewel box shop serves up precious French pastries, quiche, scones and sweets seven days a week. The chef’s all-natural ethos and locavore connections make for exquisite tastes. $ f ✿

JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B U.S. Hwy. 42, 2922710, 516 W. Main St., 568-6339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-5677, Fourth Street Live, 561-2041, 2309 Frankfort Ave., 894-8060, 4901 Bardstown Rd., 425-3688. These casual spots boasts the ambience of a friendly old-fashioned book shop, with comfortable seating, a good selection of pastries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $

CARMEN’S CUPCAKES 10616 Meeting St., 3655242. Take away or eat in with coffee or tea, or let the kids decorate their own cupcakes at the sprinkle bar. Made with organic and all-natural ingredients, of course--this little bakery is in Norton Commons. $

MRS. POTTER’S COFFEE 718 W. Main St., 581-1867. $ OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f ✿ PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-0611. $ e QUILL’S COFFEE SHOP 930 Baxter Ave., 742-6129. Its move to Bardstown Road updated its image, but faithful fans find that the joe is still fine, as are the pastries, and everyone lingers, with laptops and books. $ RED HOT ROASTERS 1402 Payne St., 569-0000, 901 S. Fourth St. (Spalding University), 585-9911. The drive-through take-away joint (entrance off Lexington Rd.) has added a space at Spalding, with an expanded menu and new cold-brewed iced coffee drinks. Excellent whole beans roasted on the premises are also available at groceries. $ ✿ SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f ✿ SONOMA COFFEE CAFÉ 3309 Poplar Level Rd., 384-0044. The first outlet in Kentucky of this franchise coffeteria. $ STARBUCKS COFFEE (35 locations) $ f SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-ROASTERY 2122 S. Preston St., 634-1243, 306 W. Woodlawn Ave., 368-2820. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used to roast their own coffee beans as a hobby. Their friends said they did it so well, they should turn pro — the result is Sunergos Coffee, another in the growing cadre of espresso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $ ✿ TAZZA MIA 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy., 491-4830. The Cincinnati-based coffee shop joins the food options at the Ramada Plaza in eastern Jefferson County. Patrons can find breakfast pastries such as Danishes and muffins along with the house-roasted coffees. $ TRAILSIDE CAFÉ 1321 Herr Ln., 423-1545. $ ZEN TEA HOUSE 2246 Frankfort Ave., 618-0878. Another entry in the Tran family’s Frankfort Ave. restaurant row. There is tea, of course, black, green, and white and herbal infusions, spring rolls, soups, and paninis, all vegetarian. $ f e h ✿

ADRIENNE & CO. BAKERY CAFÉ 129 W. Court Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-2665. If you need something for your sweet tooth and won’t be denied, count yourself lucky if the craving strikes when you’re in the vicinity of this cozy Southern Indiana spot, with its good selection of homemade cakes and treats. $ f ✿ THE BAKERY 3100 Bardstown Rd., 452-1210. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their business, this excellent establishment is part of the culinary program at Sullivan University. It’s hard to beat the quality breads and pastries offered here to eat in or carry out. $ ✿ BREADWORKS 3628 Brownsboro Rd., 893-3200, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $ ✿

CELLAR DOOR CHOCOLATES 1201 Story Ave., 561-2940. Erika Chavez-Graziano has been working some small miracles at the back of this Highlands coffee shop, turning out luscious, inventive chocolate confections that she sells at various venues around town, as well as at Quills. Her 365 Days of Chocolate project has gained her considerable notice with weird-sounding but delicious creations such as beer flavored truffles and avocado soft-centers. $ COCO’S CHOCOLATE CAFÉ 1759 Bardstown Rd., 454-9810. Stylish, artisanal chocolates and baked goods made on the premises make this tiny Highlands spot a stylish place to stop and linger over for a dessert and a cup of coffee. $ f THE COMFY COW 1301 Herr Ln., 425-4979. A newfashioned ice-cream parlor in the Westport Village Center that has captured the fancy of customers from the start, which was in the winter, so that seems to say something about the classy décor, the oft-changing flavor selections in the freezer (salty caramel, fresh roasted coffee, peanut peanut butter butter) and the rich, house-made desserts (cookies, cheesecakes, pies and brownies). $ h THE CUPCAKE SHOPPE 3701 Lexington Rd., 8992970. You won’t need three guesses to name the specialty at this little St. Matthews bakery, which has gained instant popularity for its wide variety of moist, tender cupcakes, always made in house. $ ✿ DALAT’S GATEAUX & BAKERY 6915 Southside Dr., 368-9280. It’s a French bakery, run by a Vietnamese family, which makes perfect sense. Order French pastry, cakes and cookies as well as Vietnamese specialties. Savory choices, such as pork pate wrapped in choux pastry are also available. Eat in or take away. $ DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 4517151, 9219 U.S. Hwy. 42, 228-8959. Helen Friedman has earned a loyal clientele since the 1970s with her elegant cakes, tempting pies and tortes and designer cookies. $ GIGI’S CUPCAKES 1977 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 4994998. The first outpost of the Tennessee bakery chain in Kentucky, this little shop offers a changing selection of high-end cupcakes in designer flavors — Bailey’s Irish cream, apple spice, coconut snowball, and so on. $ ✿ GREAT HARVEST BREAD COMPANY 1225 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-8573, 4214 Charlestown Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4422. $ ✿

HONEY CREME DONUT SHOP 514 Vincennes St., New Albany, IN, 945-2150. Off the beaten track, this down-homey bakery in a plain white building offers a wide selection of doughnuts, fritters and Danish that keeps the shop’s fans coming back again and again. $ LIL’ LOAFERS BAKERY 8522 Preston Hwy., 9693990. For years, hairdresser Sheryl Lukenbill used to bake banana breads and other treats as gifts for her customers. Her goodies were so popular that now Sheryl and her husband Paul have gone fulltime with Lil’ Loafers Bakery. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 9800 Shelbyville Rd., 4269645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ NORD’S BAKERY 2118 S. Preston St., 634-0931. This old-school, family-owned bakery on the edge of Germantown has a devoted following, drawn by divine Danish, donuts, and great coffee from the nearby Sunergos micro-roastery — and if you’re a sucker for over-the-top excess, try the caramel donut topped with — yes, it’s true, bacon. $ OOH LA LA BAKERY 1841 Plantside Dr., 499-1575. Made-to-order tree nut- and peanut-free bakery products are the mainstay of this little shop started by a former lawyer with allergic kids. Other special dietary needs—gluten-free, milk or soy allergies and diabetic needs—can be accommodated. $ THE PIE PANTRY 9208 Dixie Hwy., 384-0743. Lunch is served at this Southwest Louisville eatery but the main focus — and the strongest reason to drive out that way — is the dozens of varieties of homemade pies. Portions are large and the selection extensive. $ f ✿ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438. A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nostalgic. Enjoy the hometown soda fountain with ice cream while you wait for your handdecorated birthday cake, breakfast rolls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ ✿ POLICE DONUTS 12416 Shelbyville Rd., 244-1880. The first incarnation of this jokey concept did not quite work out, but new ownership is trying again, putting out good bakery products at reasonable prices. $ SUGAR AND SPICE DONUT SHOP 5613 Bardstown Rd., 231-1411. This Fern Creek bakery has loads of loyal fans, who often buy out their favorite doughnuts by mid-morning. Coffee to go too, of course, and even little half-pints of chocolate milk. $ SWEET STUFF BAKERY 323 E. Spring St., New Albany IN, 948-2507. $ ✿ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 8954554. You’ll find an enticing collection of cakes, pies and other homemade goodies, plus excellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf teas, in this cozy little spot. $ ✿

HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKERY & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426-7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman family has been baking in the Louisville area since your great-aunt was a girl ordering dinner rolls. Made fresh daily, the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pastries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ ✿ HOMEMADE ICE CREAM & PIE KITCHEN 2525 Bardstown Rd., 459-8184, 1041 Bardstown Rd., 618-3380, 3737 Lexington Rd., 893-3303, 12613 Taylorsville Rd., 267-6280, 3598 Springhurst Blvd., 326-8990, 12531 Shelbyville Rd., 245-7031, 5606 Bardstown Rd., 239-3880, 1370 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 288-6000. $

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 downtown louisville 85 NEAR EAST 2 highlands – crescent hill 86 NEAR EAST 3 st. matthews 87 SOUTH EAST 4 hikes point – buechel 88 EAST 5 hurstbourne – anchorage 89 EAST 6 hurstbourne s. – jeffersontown 90 NORTH EAST 7 indian hills – westport 90 FAR NORTH EAST 8 westport rd. – gene snyder NA NEW MAP 9 under construction 91 NORTH EAST 10 prospect 91 SOUTH EAST 11 fern creek 92 SOUTH WEST 12 shively – pleasure ridge 93 SOUTH 13 old louisville – airport 94 INDIANA 14 new albany – floyds knobs 95 INDIANA 15 clarksville 95 INDIANA 16 jeffersonville

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DOWNTOWN

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(NEAR EAST) HIGHLANDS – CRESCENT HILL – CLIFTON

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(NEAR EAST) ST. MATTHEWS

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(SOUTH EAST) HIKES POINT – BUECHEL

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(EAST) LYNDON – HURSTBOURNE – ANCHORAGE – MIDDLETOWN

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(EAST) HURSTBOURNE SOUTH – FOREST HGILLS – JEFFERSONTOWN

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(FAR NORTH EAST) WESTPORT RD – GENE SNYDER

(NORTH EAST) INDIAN HILLS – WESTPORT

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(SOUTH EAST) FERN CREEK

(NORTH EAST) PROSPECT

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(SOUTH WEST) SHIVELY – PLEASURE RIDGE

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(SOUTH) OLD LOUISVILLE – AIRPORT

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(INDIANA) NEW ALBANY – FLOYDS KNOBS

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(INDIANA) JEFFERSONVILLE

(INDIANA) CLARKSVILLE

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Louisville’s favorite spot for Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch

‘‘Wild Eggs ... I Think I Love You.’’

DUTCHMAN’S LANE

WESTPORT VILLAGE

LANDIS LAKES TOWNECENTER crackinwildeggs.com


Spring 2011 (Vol. 31)