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SPRING 2011 | FEB - MAR - APR
fourth street a dining district’s rebirth
restaurant listings with reviews & maps
wine & cheese party|home bar setup $ 4 . 9 9 U. S .
Chef Bobby Benjamin’s (The Oakroom) diver scallops with a trio of local and imported caviar.
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SPRING 2011 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR DANA MCMAHAN BUSINESS MANAGER PAUL M. SMITH COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN SCOTT HARPER DAVID LANGE ENTERTAINMENT EDITORS-AT-LARGE TIM & LORI LAIRD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS GREG GAPSIS J. CHRISTIAN WALSH CONTRIBUTING CHEFS ALLEN AKMON DAVID DODD CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITOR KATHY KULWICKI ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING PAUL M. SMITH IN FOND MEMORY OF OUR DEAR FRIEND DANIEL F. BOYLE
Food & Dining Magazine® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable for misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. +Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.
Annual Subscription rate $18. Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 509-EATS (3287) or subscribe online at
www.foodanddine.com facebook.com/foodanddine follow us on Twitter @FDzine For Advertising information call (502) 509-EATS (3287) ON THE COVER: Chef Bobby Benjamin’s (The Oakroom) diver scallops with a trio of local and imported caviar. (see story page 30) Photo by Dan Dry 4
Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com
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SPRING 2011 - VOLUME 31
DINING GUIDE Our comprehensive listing of more than 900 area restaurants complete with reviews.
MAPS (RESTAURANT LOCATOR)
Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on these user-friendly maps.
FEATURE FOURTH STREET — From the river to Broadway
This district is brimming with top-notch restaurants. Discover the history behind this restaurant row.
PROFILES LOUISVILLE’S IRON CHEF — Edward Lee
It’s never “just the usual” with 610 Magnolia’s rising star.
COMINGS & GOINGS A summary of changes on the local restaurant scene, with openings, closings, moves and more.
Noteworthy restaurant and culinary news and happenings.
QUEST TO COOK: Pad Thai
New editor Dana McMahan traveled halfway around the world to learn how to make Pad Thai — now she shows you how.
LIQUIDS SPIRITS: The home bar Prepare your home bar to meet any occasion.
COFFEE: Putting coffee in its (new) place
Move over wine and cocktails, coffee is taking pride of place at the fine dining table.
RECIPES EASY ENTERTAINING: Wine and cheese party
Must-have guide to pairing wine and cheese for a tasting party at home.
COOKING CLASS: Bursting with flavor
We celebrate an abundance of vegetables in four recipes from Sullivan University chef instructors.
www.facebook.com/foodanddine Spring 2011
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starters comings & goings
It’s been a cold, dreary winter this year. Temperatures have hovered in the 20s, not bitter cold, but bleak, with nasty stretches. And the economic climate, too, is stalled in the chilly, grey doldrums. This outer weather has put a comparative chill on the life of Louisville’s restaurant world. In recent past quarters, restaurant openings have briskly out-paced closings, for a healthy net gain, but in the most recent quarter plus and minus columns are more balanced. Twenty-eight new restaurants have opened since October. In the same time, 29 restaurants have closed, and four with more than one branch have shut down one outlet while maintaining the remainder. The latter numbers are a bit misleading, for several establishments have been closed for more than three months, but their closings were so muted that we are just now getting word of their demise. It has been a winter of consolidation, perhaps, but still some noteworthy new restaurants have ventured onto the scene.
OPENINGS Perhaps the most eagerly awaited is Eddie Merlot’s Prime Aged Beef and Seafood, at 455 S. Fourth Street. Downtown denizens have been watching the transformation of the ground floor corner of the Starks Building since late last summer. Several million dollars have been invested in the makeover of the old Rodes clothing store space, and it shows in the luxe exuberance of the glittering wall mosaics, the long, elegant bar, the art glass sconces and chandeliers, the leather armchairs, the extensive glasswalled wine cave. Eddie Merlot’s is ready to make a statement. Several other restaurant debuts have sparked considerable interest, though in a less flashy way. The entrepreneurial couple Tyler Trotter and Lori Beck opened the Louisville Beer Store a year or so ago on Market St., and have now opened The Holy Grale at a deconsecrated and repurposed church at 1034 Bardstown Rd. in the Highlands. The combination of a large selection of exotic beers on tap and interesting, reasonably priced food has garnered fans quickly. Another small, local restaurant is off to a strong star t, Hammerhead’s, at 621 Swan St., the location most recently of the vegetarian Swan Dive. The funky stuffed shark over the entrance, the industrial-strength smoker out front, the odd but welcoming semi-underground space have all drawn appreciative customers. Two recently-vacated spaces in the Highlands quickly found new owners. Wild Ginger Sushi & Fusion did not let Café Metro’s space at 1700 Bardstown Rd. linger long unoccupied. The combination of sushi bar up front and Asian fusion restaurant further back is off to a strong start. The old VT’s Bubble Cup space at 1043 Bardstown Rd. is now Funmi’s Café, serving modern Nigerian food. In the St. Matthews area Coals Artisan Pizza will be firing up a coal-fueled high-intensity pizza oven in the Vogue Center, 3724 Lexington Rd. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, Red Hog Tapas serves up small plates, wine and cocktails at 2868 Frankfort Ave., which is Blue Dog Bakery during the day. Across the river, The NA Exchange, 8306 Plaza Dr., strives for the ambience and camaraderie of an English pub. Dave Clancy, veteran of the downtown New Albany restaurant renaissance is 8
Spring 2011 www.foodanddine.com
now in the kitchen of the new gastropub. Also in New Albany, the New Albany Fish House is now frying where the Cape Codder once was, at 2604 Charlestown Rd., and Cluckers is serving chicken at 4308 Charlestown Rd. Another area restaurant veteran, Harold Baker, will be in the kitchen at Gary’s on Spring, 204 Spring St., working in the contemporary casual upscale dining mode that he developed at Westport General Store. In Portland, Ali Ali is serving grilled chicken and other comfort foods at Papa’s Grilled Chicken, 2622 Portland Ave. Ooh La La Bakery at 1841 Plantside Dr. is specializing in nutfree and gluten-free bakery items, and can work with and around other food allergies. Carmen’s Cupcakes is baking with all-natural ingredients at 10616 Meeting St. in Norton Commons. Staxx Roadhouse and BBQ is smoking at 9601 Shelbyville Rd., and Edesia Gardens is catering and serving brunches at 10212 Taylorsville Rd. Tazza Mia, a Cincinnati-area coffeehouse franchise, is now pouring at the Ramada Plaza, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. Downtown has two new lunch spots. The basement breakfast and lunch space in the basement of the Kentucky Home Life Building, 239 S. Fifth St. that once housed Café on Fifth is now Down to Lunch Grille. And the owners of Le Gallo Rosso have opened Zivio, a soup and sandwich focused lunch place at 711 S. Third St. Eight existing restaurants have opened additional venues, and two of them are doing it twice. Heine Brothers has added two coffee shops, at 1301 Herr Lane (in Westport Village) and at 3060 Bardstown Rd. After a period of consolidation and refocusing, J. Gumbo’s is opening two new Cajun quick-service shops, at 3017 Poplar Level Rd. and at 922 Hwy. 42. Riverbend Winery has added a tasting room and restaurant in Middletown at 12003 Shelbyville Rd., and the ubiquitous Jimmy Johns sandwich/deli is getting more so with the opening of another shop at 12903 Shelbyville Rd. Panera Bread is baking at 1801 Rudy Lane, and Wick’s has added another pizzeria at the Ramada Plaza, 9700 Bluegrass Pkwy. Indi’s hot wings can now be found at 2970 10th St., Jeffersonville and Java Brewing Company continues to expand with the addition at 4901 Bardstown Rd.
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