Winter 2006-07 (Vol. 15)

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WINTER 2007

check out the restaurant guide & area maps pg. 54

Pizza Louisville style

pg. 46

FISH faster fresher better

Frankfort Avenue the ‘other’ restaurant row pg. 12

$ 4 . 9 9 U. S .

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Z’s steaks are selected from Prime mid-western aged beef, hand-cut to order and cooked the way you like it.

Z’s seafood is purchased directly from “day boat fisherman,” prepared simply and cooked to perfection. Don’t call prior to 4:00 p.m. about seafood specials for the evening… Chef is still at the airport… we just don’t know, yet!

Z’s oyster lovers can select from both East and West Coast oysters!

Lunch

Monday – Friday

11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.

Dinner

Monday – Thursday Friday – Saturday Sunday

5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.

5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.

Louisville’s ◆◆◆◆ Restaurant

2005|2006|2007 America’s Top 10 Seafood Houses

Opened in October 2000, Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse is independently owned and operated.

101 Whittington Parkway Louisville, KY 40222 Telephone (502) 429-8000 Facsimile (502) 339-0335 www.zsoysterbar.com

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Choose Your Dealership As Carefully as You Choose Your Car.

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The Sam Swope Auto Group is pleased to offer a vast selection of new automobiles from some of the finest manufacturers in the world making us the #1 new car dealer in the region.

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Swope Discount AutoCenter I I-64 & S. Hurstbourne Parkway I Louisville, KY 40299

502-499-5000 I www.SamSwope.com

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PALETTE PLEASERS Originally created for an upscale eatery in downtown Louisville, “Proof” brings a touch of multi-hued sophistication to the table.

Colors of cantaloupe, green and blue mix with black for rich and delicious effect.

For details on Proof pieces and other vibrant works of functional art, visit us at louisvillestoneware.com.

Studio One | 731 Brent Street | 502.582.1900 Oxmoor Center | 7900 Shelbyville Road | 502.238.7066 www.louisvillestoneware.com

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WINTER 2007 PUBLISHER JOHN CARLOS WHITE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ROBIN GARR VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DANIEL F. BOYLE COLUMNISTS ROGER A. BAYLOR JAY FORMAN ROBIN GARR DAVID LANGE JERRY SLATER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS STEVE COOMES GREG GAPSIS MICHAEL L. JONES CONTRIBUTING CHEFS JOHN CASTRO DAVID DODD CHIEF RESTAURANT CRITIC ROBIN GARR CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER DAN DRY MAGAZINE DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN CARLOS WHITE GRAPHIC DESIGN KATHY KULWICKI STEFAN TAMBURRO COPY EDITORS MARY W. JOHNSON PAUL NAJJAR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNETTE B. WHITE GINA WOLFE DISTRIBUTION / FACT CHECKING AMANDA HERSCHEL

Food & Dining Magazine ® is published quarterly by Louisville Dining Magazine, Inc. P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201 The publisher and advertisers are not responsible or liable f or misprints, typographical errors or misinformation. The opinions expressed herein are those of the writ ers and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Food & Dining Magazine® and Louisville Dining Magazine Inc. are in no w ay affiliated with Louisville Magazine® or any of its affiliates.

Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

All rights reserved.

___________________________________

Annual subscription rate $18.

Submit subscription requests to: Food & Dining Magazine ® P.O. Box 665, Louisville KY 40201, or call (502) 493-5511 ext. 540 or subscribe online at www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Serving Contemporary Italian fare in the East Market Gallery District

For Advertising information call (502) 493-5511 ext. 550 ON THE COVER

Lunch Mon.- Fri. 11:30am-2:30pm Dinner Mon.- Thurs. 5:30pm-10pm Fri.- Sat. 5:30pm-11pm Closed Sunday 445 East Market . Louisville, KY 40202 . 502.583.1808 . w w w . p r i m o r e s t a u r a n t . n e t Ample free parking across the street . Reservations at 583-1808...or...whenever the mood strikes you

Bourbons Bistro Chef Michael Crouch’s pork chop stuffed with chorizo, fresh mozzarella and roasted fennel topped with a caramelized onion and smoked bacon red zinfandel sauce.

(Feature story, page 12)

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Photo by Dan Dry

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contents 46

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WINTER 2007

FEATURES PIZZA: IT’S A MATTER OF STYLE New York and Chicago boast unique local styles of pizza.

How about Louisville?

PROFILE: FRANKFORT AVENUE Writer Michael L. Jones takes a walk down Frankfort Avenue, the city’s other Restaurant Row.

SEAFOOD: FASTER, FRESHER, BETTER Louisville is front and center in the international seafood trade.

Greg Gapsis tells why.

12

46 12 24

COLUMNS NEWS AND NOTES COMINGS & GOINGS

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Our quarterly report on the local dining scene lists openings, closings, moves and more.

TRAVEL ROAD TRIP: New Orleans Beaten, battered and bruised, the City That Care Forgot is working hard to bounce back. New Orleans is open for business: Come on down!

22

LIQUIDS CORK 101: Red wine with fish?

24

Robin Garr lists a few tasty exceptions to the conventional wisdom about fish and white wine.

SPIRITS: Mixing it up with cocktails Sodas, mixers, rimmers, bitters and garnishes: Jerry Slater offers us a handy user’s guide to them all.

HIP HOPS: The old man and the brew Our resident brewmeister Roger A. Baylor takes a long, loving look at the literary side of quality beer.

28

COFFEE: It’s not just for drinking any more Coffee makes a great addition to dishes sweet and savory.

Java expert David Lange tells how.

42

RECIPES TOP CHEF RECIPES: Cooking with coffee

22 34 36 38 40 42

Sullivan University Chefs John Castro and David Dodd come up with stunning dishes that feature coffee as a highlight ingredient.

RESTAURANT GUIDE DINING GUIDE

54

Our updated, comprehensive listing of over 1,000 area restaurants complete with reviews.

MAPS Find all of the restaurants in our Dining Guide on 16 easy to use area maps.

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news and notes

comings

& goings

Pessimists might find a little something to worry about in recent Louisville restaurant openings and closings: For the first time in recent memory, roughly as many local eateries closed as opened — 29 restaurants shut their doors, including a few high-profile or landmark dining rooms, while 32 restaurants opened since our last quarterly report.

Optimists, on the other hand, may attribute the poor showing to record-high fuel costs that briefly chilled consumer spending, and will note that the coming quarter — Kentucky Derby season — is traditionally strong for local restaurant openings.We hope so!

OPENINGS Two recent openings involved old friends that had been closed, only to reopen with some changes made.

The recent history of Lentini’s, 1543 Bardstown Road, has seen a sad string of sales, bankruptcies, closings and reopenings.

The latest venture looks promising, with Italian chefs serving authentic dishes in a remodeled dining room that has taken out a wall and the old velvet drapes to reveal a bright and spacious venue.

Chef Bruce Ucàn’s creative Mayan cookery has come back home at his Mayan Café, 813 E. Market Street. Replacing Kim’s Asia Grill, the move returns Ucàn to his first permanent venue, with a stylish remodel that brightened the room and built in more space.

Taking a third shot at the Old Louisville storefront that had housed the short-lived Chef ’s Table and Leander’s, Carly Rae’s offers upscale casual fare at 103 W. Oak Street.

Out in the far Eastern suburbs, Karem’s Grill & Pub has opened the first restaurant to serve Norton Commons, a subdivision that’s designed to resemble an old-time village.

Fanciers of upscale Asian fare are excited about the imminent opening of Basa Modern Vietnamese, 2244 Frankfort Avenue, where restaurateurs Michael and Steven Ton plan a stylish dining room that will fuse classic Vietnamese cuisine with quality locally produced ingredients and gentle inspirations from France.

Caviar Japanese Restaurant is open next door to the Seelbach Hotel at 416 W. Muhammad Ali. Owner Sammy Sa, who also owns the two Fuji Japanese restaurants in the suburbs, presides over a stylish dining room including a sushi bar and a traditional tatami room with floor seating.

Blue Mountain Coffeehouse & Wine Bar, opposite Slugger Field at 400 E. Main Street, features Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee and an international variety of small bites. It’s a sophisticated yet welcoming spot whether you’re drinking java or zinfandel.

The city’s first International House of Pancakes in many years brings the chain’s familiar orange roof to 1220 Veterans Parkway in Clarksville. The Culver’s chain, 4630 S. Hurstbourne Parkway, and Jason’s Deli, 410 N. Hurstbourne Parkway, are both packing in crowds of fans; while Just Fresh Bakery Café & Market pleases a Highlands crowd looking for fresh, natural pastries at 1255 Bardstown Road.

One new Mexican restaurant (Los Chubascos, 10000 Linn Station Road) and five from Asia join the local ethnic roster.

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Representing China is New China, 231 Blankenbaker Parkway, and Jade Garden Buffet, 1971 Brownsboro Road. From Vietnam, the tiny storefront Pho Binh Minh is open at 6709 Strawberry Lane. Kansai Japanese Steakhouse arrives on Clarksville’s strip at 1370 Veterans Parkway; and the offbeat Asian BBQ & Cuisine brings together Korean specialties and down-home American dishes at 1207 E. Market Street opposite Jeffboat in Jeffersonville.

Newly arrived neighborhood eateries, listed alphabetically, include Bentley’s Sports Bar & Grille, 2529 W. Broadway; Big Willie’s Pizza Pub, 10301 Taylorsville Road; Crave Café & Catering, in the former Logos Coffee House at 2250 Frankfort Avenue; King Benny’s Pizza Tavern, 1919 S. Preston Street; Savino’s Italian Food, replacing Willie’s Italian at 8533 Terry Road; and Treet’s Bakery Café, 133 E. Market Street in New Albany.

Eight new proper ties have been added to existing local restaurant businesses or chains. Listed alphabetically, they are Bearno’s, 2784 Meijers Drive, Jeffersonville; two new locations for Brandon’s Bar-B-Que at 10301 Taylorsville Road in Jeffersontown and 7117 Shelbyville Road in the Lyndon area; and Buffalo Madison Coffee Company at the IUS Campus Library in New Albany. Gumbo A Go-Go opens a third branch in the former Heady’z on Baxter Avenue, with more expansion set for Lyndon and Fourth Street Live in March and at the Summit in April.

Jimmy John’s Gourmet Sandwiches adds a second East End sub shop at 4000 Shelbyville Road, and the national chains Longhorn’s Steakhouse and Olive Garden opened new properties at 9700 Von Allmen Court and 9730 Von Allmen Court, respectively.

CLOSINGS Two of the quarter’s departures involve the loss of an historic dining room, Kunz’s; the 114-year-old Louisville institution closed its doors at 115 S. Fourth Street in January; and a heralded newcomer, Danielle’s, 2206 Frankfort Avenue, which received critical acclaim but not, apparently, critical mass, under signature chefs.

The owners of Dillon’s Steakhouse gave up the fight at 2101 S. Hurstbourne Parkway, citing rising costs of beef and competition from chains. Alameda, which retained a loyal following but never really found itself again after a brief excursion from Southwestern to Italian cuisine, quietly closed its doors at

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Island inspired seafood, chicken, and steak.

Open daily for lunch and dinner • Call-ahead seating available • bahamabreeze.com 104 Oxmoor Ct., Louisville, KY 40222 • Adjacent to the Oxmoor Mall behind Kohl’s • 502-423-9040

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1381 Bardstown Rd.The owners of Kim’s Asian Grille retired, opening the space at 813 E. Market Street for Mayan Café.

Other closings involving independent local restaurants: La Peche II is gone from Holiday Manor Shopping Center ; Benedict’s Garden Café shut down its vegetarian and vegan eatery after a short run at 1519 Baxter Avenue; Heady’z (formerly Cheba Hut) toasted its last sub at 947 Baxter Avenue; Jimmy’s on the River is gone from 100 W. Riverside Drive in Jeffersonville; and Logos Coffee House has closed at 2250 Frankfort Avenue in Clifton. Two Southern Indiana pizzerias with a shared history are both gone: Burko’s New York at 2781 Jefferson Center Way in New Albany, and New York Capri from 1503 Lynch Lane in Clarksville. Louisville has lost one of its two Senegalese West African eateries with the closing of Teranga African Restaurant, 3904 Bardstown Road in Buechel.

Also closing, listed alphabetically, are the local eateries Chris’s Place, 10317 Watterson Trail; Coy’s Bar & Grille, 4041 Preston Highway; Eva Mae’s, 6313 Upper River Road; Fratello’s Pizza, 735 Ewing Lane in Jeffersonville; and Willie’s Italian, 8533 Terry Road in Pleasure Ridge Park.

Chain operations closing were Aver’s Gourmet Pizza, 4610 Taylorsville Road; Lone Star Steakhouse, 340 Whittington Parkway; and the two Tijuana Flats Burrito Co. properties at 2420 Lime Kiln Lane and 3598 Springhurst Boulevard.

Closing one or more locations while other local properties remained in business were two branches of Bean Street Café (IUS Campus and Floyd Memorial Hospital); Bearno’s at 4195 Dixie Highway; Bourbon Brothers BBQ’s branch in Jeffersonville; the Buckhead Mountain Grill at 10430 Shelbyville Road in Middletown; the Buffalo Madison Coffee Company in Waterfront Park; Ma Zarella’s, 2868 Charlestown Road in New Albany; and Schlotzsky’s Deli, 4259 Outer Loop.

CORRECTION An item about The Cutting Board in the Fall 2006 issue implied that owners Guntars and Illena Rusmanis had become owners of the eatery at the time of its move to 2929 Goose Creek Road. In fact, they purchased the business prior to the move. F&D 10 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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people and places profiles

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Frankfort Ave. The ‘Other’ Restaurant Row

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Just a few years ago, when Louisville food lovers spoke of “Restaurant Row,� you could be certain that they meant Bardstown Road. Chockablock with eating establishments that ranged from diners to white-tablecloth eateries, independent restaurants and chains, Bardstown stood alone as the place to go for diversity and choice in eating out.

But Bardstown Road has plenty of competition now, and the strongest contender for the crown is Frankfort Avenue, which has developed a distinctive restaurant row of its own.

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people and places profiles

B

ardstown Road boasts some 60 eateries along its urban stretch, if we “cheat” just a bit by tossing in its northward extension along Baxter Avenue and a few landmarks within walking distance such as Baxter Station and Lynn’s Paradise Café. Now head out Frankfort Avenue from Mellwood toward St. Matthews, and you’ll tally some 50 restaurants offering a world of cuisines from American to Japanese along the Frankfor t strip and nearby Brownsboro Road.

What’s more, said Walton Jones, a longtime area real-estate agent, “Frankfort Avenue is all original restaurants. I don’t think you’ll find any chains.” Jones, who has invested in two Frankfort Avenue hotspots, North End Café and Sweet Peas Southern, went on, “There is a charm to the street that I love. The same qualities that attracted me to Frankfort Avenue in the late ’80s and early ’90s — the architecture, the people, the urban vibe and the foot traffic — are still attracting entrepreneurs to the area.”

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Frankfort Avenue bisects Louisville’s Crescent Hill and Clifton neighborhoods, a section that, like the Bonnycastle section of Bardstown Road, was devastated by a tornado in 1974. Jones attributes the area’s modern-day success in part to low real estate prices that followed the catastrophe, which had prompted some proper ty owners to close shop. It created an opportunity for young up-and-comers like Jones and Tim Coury, owner of Porcini, to purchase affordable property with money left over for renovation and repairs.

Historically, Frankfort Avenue had never had the commercial density of Bardstown Road, but when the dust finally cleared, the avenue emerged as a successful mix of residential property (including many historic houses), restaurants, night spots and light retail.

“When I opened (in 1992) there was nothing here,” Coury remembers. “The neighborhood was basically blighted with the exception of Deitrich’s,” a large, stunning restaurant that restaurateur Bim Deitrich

(pictured from left) Porcini’s General Manager Tim Quinlan, Chef John Plymale and Owner Tim Coury.

had opened in the old Crescent Theater, a venue that had gone from neighborhood movie to art theater to porn-flick house over the years.

“Then it snowballed overnight,” Coury said. “What is amazing to me is that every business that has come along since then seems to complement the next guy.You’ve got my restaurant next to a bookstore that is next to a coffeehouse. It is a good mix of businesses. It creates traffic.”

PORCINI If you want to talk to someone in charge at the upscale Italian restaurant Porcini, just ask for Tim, general manager Tim Quinlan said with a laugh. Either he or owner Tim Coury will answer. The L&N railroad tracks run just across the avenue from the restaurant’s large front windows. Motioning to the tracks, Coury said the rails had as much to do with the development of Frankfort Avenue as did any of the business owners on the street.

Because they limit development to one

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From Chef John Plymale of Porcini: pork osso bucco on a bed of saffron risotto with roasted cippollini, baby gold and red beets, baby carrots and baby turnips, topped with a sage and pork demiglace.

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Chef Ryan Wombacher of North End CafĂŠ offers pan-seared diver scallops with black olive tapenade and asparagus, finished with a balsamic vinegar reduction.

A comfort food classic from Sweet Peas Southern: Fried chicken with mashed sweet potatoes, lima beans, collard greens and cornbread.

16 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Christopher Seckman, owner of Sweet Peas Southern and North End Café.

side of Frankfort along a long stretch of the avenue, the tracks keep commercial development in check.

“Bardstown Road is busier visually and traffic-wise,” Coury said.“But we’ve got the railroad tracks and a vibrant neighborhood.

Because of the railroad tracks, a lot of things happening on Bardstown Road can’t happen here. It makes it easier for the community and businesses to co-exist.”

As if on cue, a mother walks by casually pushing her baby in a stroller. She has a Heine Brothers coffee mug in one hand. “That’s what I’m talking about,” Coury said. “The pace is calmer here.”

At 52, Coury balks at being called the old man of the Frankfort restaurant scene, but it’s no doubt that he was one of the originals after Deitrich’s. Jason Brauner, who is now co-owner of Bourbons Bistro, started Clifton’s Pizza in 1990. Then came Coury with Porcini in February 1992.

Coury grew up in the restaurant business, but he says he earned most of his experience as a waiter at Casa Grisanti, where he worked for eight years before deciding to start his own place. “I had no idea how successful I would be. I

had projected to make X amount of dollars over a couple of years. We exceeded that in the first year” and, he said, he was soon in a position to purchase the building his restaurant was in. He attributes Porcini’s success to the growth of the neighborhood around it.

“It’s amazing how much the price of real estate has come up since I started,” Coury said. “These used to be starter homes. Young couples purchasing their first houses would buy here. It’s not that way anymore.”

Overall, Coury said he’s pleased with the way Frankfort Avenue has developed.

He thinks there may be a need for more retail, but the restaurant scene is fine as it is.“I’d hate to be the lone restaurant here,” he said. “Some people won’t believe that, but it’s true. The more restaurants, the more people who frequent the area.”

NORTH END CAFÉ AND SWEET PEAS SOUTHERN Talk to neighborhood residents and business owners alike, and two issues come up time and again: More parking is needed, and they don’t want to become

“the next Bardstown Road.” Christopher Seckman, chef and managing partner of North End Café and Sweet Peas Southern, said both issues rise to the top because there’s general agreement that Frankfort Avenue’s special character is wor th preserving.

“There is not near the density of Bardstown Road here, but there also isn’t near the craziness,” Seckman said. “When I first moved here, I lived in the Highlands, which is nice but too congested. The thing I like about Louisville is that it has such distinctive neighborhoods. I fell in love with Frankfort Avenue. It is quiet, but it has all the stuff that you want like shops, restaurants and coffeehouses.The restaurants here are some of the best in the city.”

Seckman, 40, was born in Nashville and grew up in Georgia. His family included eight children — six boys and two girls — and he started helping out in the kitchen at an early age, cooking his first Thanksgiving meal when he was 11.

Seckman started his restaurant career in the front of the house as a waiter, but he was drawn to the kitchen from the beginning. At 22, he traded in his order www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 17

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people and places profiles pad for an apron. Seckman was working as a sous chef in Oregon in 1999 when he decided that he was in desperate need of a change of scenery. He sent applications all over the country and landed a job at Lynn’s Paradise Café (which, incidentally, was first located on Frankfort Avenue before moving to its current location on Barret Avenue).

Seckman’s tenure at Lynn’s was short, only two months. He quickly got an offer to run the kitchen at the more upscale 211 Clover. Still, Seckman says, he wasn’t sure that Louisville would be his permanent home until he moved to Clifton in 2001.

“It’s one of the main areas of the city,” Seckman said. “You can get anywhere in the city from here. It has so much character.”

But, he said, one thing was missing: “I felt like what the neighborhood needed was a good breakfast and lunch place.”

Hence, he opened North End Café in April 2003 in a camelback shotgun house

BY MICHAEL L. JONES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

at the far western end of Frankfort, near Mellwood Avenue. The restaurant was a quick success. It initially served only breakfast and lunch, but in less than six months it began offering dinner, too, and soon expanded into another cottage next door and added catering services and a popular, late-night lounge.

Seckman said he believes Frankfort Avenue has reached critical mass with its restaurant community. “People come to the area just to see where they can get in,” he said. “If they can’t get a table at North End, maybe they’ll go to Café Lou Lou or somewhere else. The diversity is incredible.”

When he decided to open a second restaurant in 2005, Seckman said, he and his partners were adamant about staying on Frankfort Avenue. Bardstown Road is already too crowded with restaurants, he said, and although downtown dining is attracting a lot of attention, it still lacks the critical mass of Frankfort Avenue.

“Sweet Peas Southern was an idea that we had been talking about for a while,” Seckman said. “The property (formerly Furlong’s) was open and we all liked it.There was really no reason to leave this neighborhood.”

BOURBONS BISTRO Jason Brauner, 38, is another member of the early class of Frankfort restaurant owners. He grew up in Crescent Hill and he was just 21 when he opened Clifton’s Pizza. “The only thing open then on this part of Frankfort was Genny’s Diner,” Brauner said. “I think I forgot how much work it was opening Clifton’s Pizza until I started another restaurant. I didn’t have any money then, but I had lots of time.

Now, I have no money and even less time because I’m married with a child and have another one on the way.”

Brauner said he decided around 2000 to establish a full-service restaurant. He and a friend incorporated as Bourbons

Bourbons Bistro Chef Michael Crouch’s seared ahi tuna with Little Neck clams in a spicy lobster and arugula sauce.

18 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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Chef Michael Crouch of Bourbons Bistro offers a pork chop stuffed with chorizo, fresh mozzarella and roasted fennel topped with a caramelized onion and smoked bacon red zinfandel sauce.

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Bistro and searched for funding. In the meantime, he sold the pizzeria and worked as a welder. It took them four years to secure the funding for the new restaurant.

Bourbons Bistro opened on Derby weekend in 2005 and quickly earned critical acclaim and a stellar reputation. It was named Bar/Restaurant of the Year in the 2007 “American Icons of Whisky” competition of the London-based Whisky Magazine.

Bourbons Bistro co-owner John Morrison said the award was especially pleasing because people who work in the Bourbon industry judged the contest. “The distillers nominated us and industry people voted on it,” Morrison explained. “It was kind of a surprise because we haven’t been around for a long time. It let us know that we are on the right track.”

Like Christopher Seckman, Brauner said his dream was always to locate Bourbons Bistro on the street. “We stayed interested in this neighborhood throughout the whole process,” he said. Frankfort Avenue has become “the place to be,” he said, adding, “I think that started with the housing in the late ’70s and really took hold in the ’90s. I grew up in this neighborhood and I didn’t want Bourbons to be anywhere else.”

Opening a restaurant on Frankfort Avenue today is much different than it was in 1990 when Brauner helped open Clifton’s Pizza. “Parking is definitely an issue I wish the city would help us with,” he said.

“The neighborhood people want less traffic, because diners are parking on the streets in front of their homes. I’d love for the city to step in and help us resolve this.

We do have one public parking lot, but this neighborhood has grown so much in the last 15 years.”

For Morrison, the biggest challenge is letting people know that Bourbons Bistro is about more than drinking. “A lot of people just think of us as a bar, but we are a restaurant,” Morrison said. “Bourbon is just the backdrop for the rest of it.”

Bourbons Bistro recently hired Chef Michael Crouch from Café Metro. Crouch said it has been a bit jarring moving from Bardstown Road to Frankfor t Avenue.

“The clientele at Café Metro was so established that I don’t think my influence was noticed,” he said. “I think diners here are more appreciative of the menu because they don’t know what to expect.”

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EL MUNDO El Mundo, which in Spanish means “The World,” opened in 1995 after Pete Chamberlain, a former martial arts instructor, decided that he wanted to open a “burrito shack” modeled after restaurants he’d seen in California. Having little restaurant experience, Chamberlain turned to his sister Bea, an accomplished chef who had worked at Martha’s Vineyard and spent time in Mexico. Bea Chamberlain expanded her brother’s original concept by creating a menu that incorporated more authentic Mexican recipes including some seafood dishes. Thanks to her creativity, El Mundo remains one of the most popular restaurants in the Frankfor t Avenue corridor.

“We’ve always been at least consistent if not getting better,” Bea Chamberlain said. “We’re in a kind of quirky and weird neighborhood, which I love. But you have to keep changing to keep people interested.”

Joe Frase, a longtime employee and now co-owner of El Mundo, said he believes Frankfort Avenue will keep changing, too. “It’s the new Bardstown Road,” Frase said. “When I started working at El Mundo in 1997 things were just getting started here. Each year it is growing more and more. I think that’s because it is the halfway point between the East End and downtown. People leaving work can stop on Frankfort Avenue to shop or get something to eat.”

El Mundo’s upstairs bar is open until 2 a.m. after the restaurant closes, a relative exception on Frankfort Avenue, which, Frase said, “Is definitely more geared towards restaurants than the bar scene.

It’s difficult to get a 4 a.m. liquor license because of the neighbors. It’s understandable, though. If I paid a lot for a home, I wouldn’t want that in my neighborhood.”

Michael O’Leary, co-chair of the Clifton Community Council, singled out El Mundo as a restaurant that manages to balance commerce and being a good neighbor. “El Mundo always plays by the rules,” O’Leary said.“They are the epitome of the kind of business we love. Before they started their upstairs bar, they made arrangements for additional parking without any prompting from their neighbors.

That was very considerate.”

Bea Chamberlain credits a lot of Frankfort Avenue’s success to organizations like the Frankfort Avenue Business Association, which started the Frankfort Avenue Trolley Hop — F.A.T. Friday — on the last Friday of each month. She said cooperation between residents and business owners is key to the area’s future.

“This neighborhood is just quirky and weird, and I like it that way,” she said.“I think we need a good record store and a few more places to shop. Otherwise, I wouldn’t change a thing.”

Pete Chamberlain, Bea’s brother and a former co-owner of El Mundo, said Frankfort Avenue is still in flux. He recently opened a new restaurant, Sari Sari Filipino Cuisine, on the same block as El Mundo.

Chamberlain said he didn’t think his tiny restaurant — it only has five tables — would take business away from El Mundo because they appeal to different people.

Chamberlain opened the new restaurant to showcase the cooking skills of chef Lourdes Fronteras and because he couldn’t get Frankfort Avenue out of his system.“It’s really a unique blend here with the restaurants and the art galleries,” he said. “It is ever-changing. … It’s changed so much since El Mundo opened that I can’t wait to see what the next ten years will bring. I feel like I have some equity in this neighborhood.”

Frankfort Avenue’s commercial development has been a blessing, but it’s also a potential curse, says Clifton Community Council co-chair O’Leary. He and his par tner bought their home on Payne Street for $82,000 ten years ago. Today, the home is worth $130,000. But he worries that the area’s popularity might lead to the kind of congestion that continues to infuriate residents living near Bardstown Road.

“Fifteen years ago there was nothing but a bunch of empty storefronts on Frankfor t Avenue,” O’Leary said. “We worked so hard to bring the neighborhood to what it is today. The nightmare is that we become like the Baxter Avenue corridor. That is why we’ll never have a nightclub around here. Every time something new comes in, we ask ourselves: What is it going to take away? What is it going to add? It’s always a balancing act maintaining a good business corridor and an eclectic neighborhood.” F&D

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El Mundo Chef/Owner Bea Chamberlain’s sautÊed center-cut pork chop with chipotle-raspberry sauce and almondcrusted goat cheese, served with Mexican corn on the cob and fingerling potatoes.

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BY JAY FORMAN

New Orleans

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lot of people wonder whether there’s anything left of New Orleans these days. As both a native and culinary ambassador, I would like to state in no uncertain terms that we as a city are open for business. In fact, the restaurant scene has been booming and is one of the brightest spots in the collective recovery effort. Local chefs have, by and large, fiercely recommitted to the city, resulting in a bumper crop of new places opened since Katrina. In a city that perhaps best expresses itself through food and dining, this is an encouraging sign.

The oldest and most famous parts of the city emerged from the flooding relatively unscathed. They were built on the highest ground and were spared the brunt of the consequences of the levee failures. From a visitor’s standpoint, these are the areas you’re most likely to see: the French Quarter, the Garden District, Magazine Street, St. Charles Avenue and the Uptown neighborhood. Locals have taken to calling this strip of naturally high ground that parallels the Mississippi River the “Sliver by the River.”

Others with a dry sense of humor dub it “The Aisle of Denial.”

Let’s take a quick culinary tour.

We’ll start with downtown, specifically the French Quarter.

Common sense applies here: This is where you will find the expected tourist traps, particularly along Bourbon and Decatur Streets. However, for the informed visitor the Quarter also offers some of the city’s best dining. One of the most talked-about places is Scott Boswell’s Stella! in the St. James Hotel. Boswell’s contemporary, kaleidoscopic menu changes daily, but one great dish that’s usually on the list is his Duck Five Ways. Over on Dauphine Street, Chef Susan Spicer’s Bayona has been a local favorite for over 15 years. If the weather is nice, ask for a seat in the courtyard among the banana trees and night-blooming jasmine. For top-notch 22 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

seafood head to GW Fins, which also offers a terrific selection of wines by the glass. Be sure to sample the lobster dumplings.

For steak lovers, Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse serves terrific food in an elegant New Orleans ambiance. Options for a casual lunch include Port of Call on Esplanade Avenue, which boasts the best burgers in the city, though this is about the extent of their menu.

On the other side of Canal Street from the French Quarter lies the Central Business District (CBD) and the Warehouse District, which is the hottest place in town, restaurant-wise.This is where you will find the latest offerings from some of the brightest young chefs in the city looking to make their mark. Cochon specializes in both Cajun and Southern cuisine, where Chef Stephen Stryjewski makes his own charcuterie in-house. Try the fried boudin sausage with pickled peppers for an appetizer, and the Louisiana cochon with turnips and cracklins as an entrée. Donald Link heads up Herbsaint on St. Charles Avenue, a local favorite for business lunch and dinner. The pork belly here is good, and don’t miss the chocolate beignets for dessert. Rio Mar specializes in seafood, though of the Portuguese persuasion rather than Louisiana-style.Try the escabeche, any of the seviches, or just order a sampling of tapas. Lunch here can be a great experience with the small plates. The flan and tres leches de coco make for great desserts. If you would prefer some turf instead of surf, head around the corner to La Boca, an Argentine steakhouse. The marinated skirt steak is great, as is the provoleta appetizer served in a castiron skillet. James Beard award-winning Chef John Besh celebrates food at the nearby Restaurant August across from the Harrah’s Casino. It’s one of the finest restaurants in the city for contemporary dining, but be prepared to pay accordingly.

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Traveling up Magazine Street through the heart of Uptown you will find a trove of great restaurants. Chef Gerard Maras of Table One at the corner of Washington Avenue makes a great crab cake ravigote.

A few blocks up Washington Avenue is the world-famous Commander’s Palace.

This pinnacle of haute-Creole cuisine is best experienced through their Sunday Jazz Brunch. Make a reservation in advance and request a seat with the locals in the Garden Room, where floor-to-ceiling windows look out over a beautiful courtyard in the Garden District. Save room for their incredible bread pudding soufflé, which must be ordered in advance. While shopping along Magazine Street, recharge with a sweet from Sucre at 3025 Magazine

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Street, which specializes in gelato, pastry and high-quality chocolate confections. A bit further down is Lilette, where Chef John Harris’ French bistro-style food has won admirers nationwide. His beef cheek ravioli is not to be missed.

Ignatius is a good local sandwich shop, but for those craving the “real deal” head off the beaten path to Domilise’s on Annunciation Street. Locals line up around the corner for fantastic roast beef and fried oyster po-boys. Ask for the “shrimp with brown gravy” — it is not on the menu but the little old ladies making the sandwiches will understand. The local Abita Restoration Ale goes great with lunch, and those wanting a non-alcoholic option might enjoy an ice-cold Barq’s.

Another casual place to soak up the feel of Uptown is at Frankie and Johnny’s.

Great fried seafood and gumbo are the specialties and the price is reasonable. Just be prepared for a wait on weekends. At Upperline just off Prytania Street, Owner JoAnn Clevenger always greets her guests warmly at the door and is proud to discuss her incredible collection of folk art which adorns the walls.The fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade is a good appetizer, and the roast duck will make a grown man weep. In a good way.

Moving along past Tulane University and into the Riverbend neighborhood you’ll find Jazmine Café, an inexpensive Vietnamese place right where St. Charles Avenue ends. Their pho is great; the broth is fragrant with a hint of sweetness. Nearby Cooter Brown’s has the best bar food in the city hands-down, and doubles as a popular lunch and late-night dining spot.

Having the best selection of beers in the city (and maybe the entire Gulf South) doesn’t hurt, either.Topping things off, they even have an oyster bar, and their cheese fries are fantastic. Refuel is a hip, inexpensive place for brunch and boasts a great huevos rancheros, and the nearby One Restaurant compliments it as a sceney dinner option. At the toe-end of nearby Dante Street, Brigtsen’s has been a local favorite since 1986. Chef Brigtsen honed his skills under Paul Prudhomme during his Commander’s Palace years, and his earthy and generous take on Acadian cooking is much admired. Game dishes are particularly recommended, as is the pecan pie for dessert. For a more contemporary experience popular with a younger set, Dante’s Kitchen across the street also does great things with game, serving a roasted duck with andouille-sausage cornbread dressing and Barq’s root beer candied sweet potatoes. It also has an excellent and reasonable-priced brunch on weekends.

New Orleans has more to offer now than ever before. All of the classic French and Creole old guard restaurants have reopened. Additionally, lots of new places spearheaded by the next generation of local talent are flourishing in the Warehouse District.This is an exciting time to visit New Orleans, so come on down.

You won’t be disappointed. F&D (left) Chef John Besh of Restaurant August in New Orleans presents Moroccan spiced duck with sweet corn polenta and cherries tempura. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 23

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about food seafood

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BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

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Louisville Seafood

FA S TER, FRESHER, BETTER Louisville is 700 miles from the nearest seacoast, a fact of life that might lead one to the assumption that the city’s seafood options are narrow and uninspiring. A good filet, country ham or a tasty chop might seem more natural choices for an inland city than a treasure from the ocean’s deep. You might think so. But you would be wrong.

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about food seafood

I

n fact, Louisville is front and center in the international seafood trade and becoming more so. The city’s seafood tradition goes back to the 1800s, when fresh oysters packed in ice would be rushed up from the Gulf on L&N express trains. Nowadays, major national seafood distributors have established bases here to take advantage of the UPS air-express package-delivery hub. As a happy result, Louisville usually gets its seafood more quickly than Chicago or even New York.

Louisville chefs express delight at their regular access to a splendid selection of high-quality fish and seafood.

“We have come a long way,” said Mahrzad Sharbaiani of Z’s Oyster Bar & Steakhouse.“Oysters on the half shell is one of our specialties.You couldn’t imagine that 10 years ago. Now we can get the highest quality fish and seafood. I will put my tuna up against any restaurant in the country.”

Sharbaiani and Anthony Lamas of Seviche both tell of visitors from New York or Miami who express amazement at the quality of fish available here.

A half-dozen Little Skookum oysters from Z’s Oyster Bar and Steakhouse.

BY GREG GAPSIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

“People say the fish here is the best they’ve ever had,” Lamas said. “We can get it fresher than those on the coast,” he said, including more exotic produce like South American corvina or sable fish (black cod), a good switch for threatened Chilean sea bass.

“Diners are excited and willing to experiment,” Lamas went on. “That people will try seviche and sushi indicates that very good, prime, the best and freshest seafood is available.”

It took 30 years for Louisville to evolve from seafood spots ser ving battered-and-fried white fish and the city’s trademark rolled oysters to fine restaurants serving exper tly prepared fresh deepwater fish.

“When we moved here and opened St. Matthews Seafood in 1979, there was little fresh seafood available in the city,” said Lelia Gentle, who with her husband Stan now runs Stan’s Fish Sandwich.“We started bringing it in from Boston and the Gulf coast right off the boats. Our goal was always to sell the best we could possibly find.”

“A lot of what we did was education.

Many folks simply didn’t know how to prepare fresh seafood,” Gentle said. “But once you develop a taste for the fresh, good stuff, that’s all it takes.You don’t want to go back.”

Quality Relationships It’s no mystery that archeologists find seafood shells and fish bones in ancient settlements along rivers, lakeshores and seacoasts. Unless it was dried or smoked, seafood had to be consumed where it was caught. Fish are perishable. They must be kept alive, refrigerated, frozen or cooked soon after harvest to be safe for human consumption.

In today’s international seafood industry, the seashore can now be anywhere in the world. To make it work, supply-chain relationships are built on experience and trust: suppliers to sellers and sellers to customers.

“We work with an excellent purveyor, Bluefin Seafood, and have a relationship

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Seviche Chef Anthony Lamas’s ahi tuna and coconut-ginger seviche.

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De la Torre’s grilled salmon fillet in a saffron and white-wine reduction, served with grilled asparagus and roasted red peppers.

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that goes back 20 years to when they were driving seafood in from South Carolina,” said John Plymale, chef at Porcini. “Our relationship is really a partnership. They tell us what looks good and we have X-number of items to choose from. One day it’s in the water swimming. Then 24 or 36 hours later it’s on your plate.”

Distributors approach their supply networks like a military campaign, using all the tactics necessary to ensure quality from the boat deck to the dinner table.

“We know the boats that take care and are good at handling fish,” said Paul Samiere, marketing manager at Honolulu Seafood Co. “People here want to know exactly where a fish comes from, how it was caught, handled and delivered.”

Samiere described the early-morning bustle at the government-regulated docks in Honolulu, where each day’s catch is auctioned off through public bidding.

“Boats have been offloading since 4 a.m. until the bell rings at 5:30 and the auction starts,” he said. “Divers bring in their midnight reef catch, like Maui surf snapper and wahoo, or ono. Day boats with one run out-and-in and larger boats that have been out up to 10 days. We’re always concerned about how the fish is handled.”

Honolulu Seafood specializes in deep, coldwater fish caught on long lines at depths averaging 1,000 feet.“One fish, one hook,” Samiere said. “And the boats we buy from don’t shock the meat from the environment it was taken. In addition to avoiding bruises from struggling, they prechill the fish, going in stages, not shock it.

And throughout the ensuing chain of control we don’t want their temperatures to go up or down.”

Samiere’s company, and its peers — Louisville-based Bluefin and Fish Market Seafood and Dayton’s Midwest Seafood — all try to manage the two main challenges to delivering quality fresh fish: time and temperature.

“We start calling chefs right after we purchase the fish, and they are often sold before they get to our plant for processing. The best fish is on your plate tomorrow,” Samiere said.

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country, every seafood distributor must have a formal hazardous analysis critical control point (HACCP) plan in place, said Steve Smith, owner of Fish Market Seafood.“It establishes standards that meet FDA requirements and monitors handling throughout the chain of supply. If necessary to identify handling problems, we can add sensors to a shipment that track temperature over time.”

Wonder Food Fish and seafood are the last truly wild foods that humans still eat in significant quantities, and they offer wondrous advantages.

“Seafood is one of our fastest-growing segments of all our sales right now,” said Kevin Doering, meat and seafood manager for Kroger stores in Louisville. “There’s increased interest, heightened awareness of its health benefits, and it is so simple to actually cook. A little olive oil, a little seasoning: It’s easy to prepare on the grill or in the oven. It’s a versatile item as long as

Porcini’s pan-seared black grouper fillet topped with a classic puttanesca sauce and jumbo lump crab meat.

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you don’t overcook it. It’s also a very lean protein, high in healthy fats, the omega 3’s.”

Modern science is constantly finding health benefits related to fish and seafood, a chain of discovery whose first link came up when British physiologist Hugh Sinclair went to the Arctic to study the Inuit in the 1940s. Even though the native diet included large percentages of animal fat, Sinclair suggested that high levels of omega-3 fatty acids provided by coldwater fish helped protect the Arctic dwellers from heart disease.

Sinclair’s hypothesis has since been confirmed by multiple scientific studies. Omega3 fatty acids from cold water fish are being heartily promoted by health professionals.

Studies have shown that omega-3 helps prevent heart disease and heart attacks and lessens the risk of strokes and arrhythmia. It appears to improve brain function and alleviate depression. One study suggests that it may even lower recidivism among juvenile first offenders, hinting at the possibility of a “fish for thugs” treatment program.

The anti-inflammatory proper ties of omega-3 can help relieve rheumatoid arthritis and bowel disorders. Some preliminary studies now show that it may lower risk of breast, colon and prostate cancers.

Among the continuing good news was a 2003 study where 815 nursing-home residents tracked for a seven-year period showed a 60 percent lower incidence of Alzheimer’s disease among those who ate fish rich in omega-3 for at least one meal a week.

Today, the American Heart Association recommends two servings of such fish per week. Some of the best sources of omega-3 are mackerel, salmon, smaller tuna, sardines, striped bass, oysters and farm-raised rainbow trout.

Note, however, that some coldwater fish rich in omega-3 raise separate concerns because of their tendency to store high levels of industrial pollutants in their tissue.These oil-bearing fish tend be higher up the food chain and live longer, allowing time for marine pollutants like dioxin, PCBs

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and methylmercury (a neurotoxin that can be a risk to fetuses and young children) to accumulate in their tissues.

Favorite types of fish that are both at the top of the food chain and accumulate significant amounts of these substances are shark, marlin, tilefish, king mackerel and both bluefin and albacore tuna.

In response, both the U.S. Food & Drug Administration and Environmental Protection Agency have issued food-consumption advisories for children under 15 years of age, and nursing mothers, pregnant women or those who expect to become pregnant in the future. For more information on the Internet about these advisories, see www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/admehg3.html Dr. Charles Santerre, of Purdue University’s Department of Foods and Nutrition, collated these advisories and offers the following advice for diners who fall into those at-risk categories: • Eat as much farmed catfish, clams, oysters, flounder, perch, salmon, scallops, shrimp, sole, tilapia, rainbow trout and both canned light and yellowfin tuna as you like.

• Limit cod, crab, haddock, herring, lobster, mahi-mahi, canned white tuna and whitefish to once a week.

• Enjoy bluefish, croaker, orange roughy, pollack, grouper, halibut, northern lobster, marlin, red snapper, sablefish, saltwater bass, wild trout and tuna steaks only once per month.

• Avoid king mackerel, shark, swordfish and tilefish (golden bass or golden snapper).

Generally, aside from these advisories, the message to those not in the at-risk categories is simple: Eat plenty of fish rich in omega-3, up to four portions a week.

Ethical Question But here another concern arises. Increasing demand is pressing the limits of wild fisheries’ ability to sustain themselves. In many areas of the world, fish are being harvested so quickly that the fish can’t replenish their stocks through breeding. If these trends continue, fish populations will decrease.

A study published in the journal Science in November 2006 asserts that about one third of world fish stocks have already “collapsed,” that is, have declined to less than 10 percent of their once-documented levels.

Among worldwide fish stocks for which data were available, reported a 2004 FAO report on World Fisheries and Aquaculture, “approximately one-quar ter were overexploited, depleted or recovering from depletion … and needed rebuilding.”

Instead of hand-wringing and despair, such concerns have engendered a heightened interest in sustainability across the industry.

(See “Dining Green,” sidebar.) New concerns have been raised about harvest techniques, such as dredge seines, that both destroy habitat and trap and kill too high a percentage of other marine creatures.

Management techniques like harvest control rules (quotas) and “no-go zones” are being introduced. And new analyses are being made of the sustainability and eco-friendliness of aquaculture practices now that the industry is expanding to meet the growing demand.

“The whole industry is becoming more aware of the need to manage stocks and species,” said Fish Market Seafood’s Steve Smith.

“The idea of being a responsible fisherman is more a fact of life, more important today. And aquaculture is going to be a larger part of the

Dining Green — Environmentally Sound Seafood Options “Our enjoyment of these foods is heightened if we also know something of the creatures from which they are derived, how and where they live, how they are caught, their habits and migrations … Each of the millions of people who buy and eat fish can play an active part in conservation.”

Rachel Carson, 1943 Concern about stressed fish stocks, pollution and some industrial fish-farming practices raise ethical and health questions for chefs and consumers.The following web sites provide valuable information:

Blue Ocean Institute www.blueocean.org Founded by MacArthur Fellow Carl Safina, this site offers diverse approaches, including a quick reference guide to abundant or stressed fish stocks, supporting sustainability and conservation.

Chefs Collaborative www.chefscollaborative.org Chefs Collaborative works with chefs and the greater food community to celebrate local foods and foster a more sustainable food supply.

Marine Stewardship Council www.msc.org Founded 10 years ago, this independent non-profit certifies seafood from sustainable and well-managed fisheries. Its website lists products available at local outlets spanning Wal-Mart to Whole Foods.

Oceans Alive www.oceansalive.org Uses government environmental data to support consumption advisories and eat smart recommendations.

Seafood Choices Alliance www.seafoodchoices.org/resources/sourcingseafood.php Provides guidance to chefs, seafood markets and consumers about suppliers supporting sustainable fisheries.

Seafood Watch http://www.mbayaq.org/cr/seafoodwatch.asp This Monterey Bay Aquarium program explains farmed and wild-caught seafood and the techniques used to provide it. Downloadable pocket guides suggest smart consumer choices for seafood and fish that promote sustainability.

Slow Food USA http://www.slowfoodusa.org/raft/SeafoodTraditions.pdf Slow Food’s Renewing American Food Traditions (RAFT) project offers this downloadable four-page brochure, “Seafood Traditions at Risk in Nor th America,” a “redlist” of fish and seafood species considered at risk without conservation effor ts. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 31

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picture. The consumer will be introduced to a lot of different species in the future.”

“We are already getting excellent farm-raised salmon from Chile and Norway, Canada and the U.S.,” Smith went on. “Costa Rica and Honduras are providing farmed shrimp and China is already supplying shrimp and crawfish and coming down the pike with catfish and other new species.”

Getting the Best, Cooking it Right If you feel any hesitation to explore the wonderful choices available at your fish market or grocer, remind yourself that humankind’s relation with seafood spans millennia.There is much to explore in terms of what so many of the world’s cultures have done to prepare and enjoy fish.

Don’t be shy about asking your vendors questions. Fish buyers constantly try to find the best quality choices for customers and will appreciate questions and requests for advice and cooking tips.

Remember, the success of today’s food supply network is based on relationships

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and working together to ensure the best possible results.You, the consumer, are part of that network.

“People who run them (local fishmarkets) are highly knowledgable about their product; how to cook it; how to use it,” said Porcini’s Plymale.“Talk to them.They are a wealth of knowledge. They are a super resource.”

Plymale offered these basic tips to help you select fresh product: “Common sense plays into it. Buy the freshest fish possible,” he said. “Look at the eyes; they should be clear. Fresh fish doesn’t smell, except like the ocean; so avoid anything with a fishy odor.The scales should be smooth and shiny, not slimy. Look for gills that are bright red and not brick-colored.

All these signs indicate that it is fresh.”

Once you’ve found your good value, don’t waste it.

“If you’re buying quality fish for your own use, don’t get more than you can use,” Plymale advised. “Nice local seafood shops are readily available. Only buy what you need and use what you buy.”

Then, when you get into the kitchen, just relax.

In his book, American Cookery, James Beard wryly noted — after reeling off a number of American seafood traditions — “Considering our bounty of fish, it is surprising we did not learn how to prepare it properly until the twentieth century.”

In the 1920s, Evelene Spencer championed the quick, high-heat methods that are in wide use in fish cookery today.

The Canadian Department of Fisheries refined Spencer’s technique into the “10Minute Method,” also known as the “Canadian Method,” which in turn inspired Beard to rewrite his classic fish cookbook as The New Fish Cookery.

“It is as simple as this,” Beard wrote, declaring the method “foolproof ”: “Measure the thickness of the fish at its thickest point, and estimate 10 minutes cooking time per inch whatever the cooking method.”

With the exceptions of deep-frying and microwaving, Beard’s description of the Canadian Method works surprisingly well whether you’re baking at 400 to 450 degrees, grilling, broiling, poaching, steaming or sautéing. It even works when a fish has been stuffed or rolled. Just measure the thickness of the roll after it has been prepared.

A few simple corollaries: If the fish is thicker than 1/2-inch, turn it over halfway through the cooking time. Add five minutes if the fish is being cooked in foil or a sauce.

And finally, simply double the cooking time for frozen fish that has not been defrosted.

The 10-minute rule delivers a wellcooked serving that is both moist and flavorful. The fish will have just begun to turn from translucent to opaque at the proper time, and it will still be firm. It will flake if tested with a fork.

The most frequent mistake in cooking fish, and the easiest way to waste your money, is to overcook the fish, which spoils both its flavor and its texture.

“Don’t overcook it,” Lelia Gentle advised. “Once you get it to the point where it starts drying out, it doesn’t matter how much a pound you paid for it.”

“Trust a chef ’s preparation at restaurants,” suggested Michael Crouch, chef at Bourbons Bistro. “They are serving you a memorable dining experience,” Crouch said. “And at home, play with it.

Have fun with it. Recipes are only a concept.” F&D

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BY ROBIN GARR

Red wine with Fish?

The old saying about “red wine with red meat, white wine with fish” is such consistently useful advice that it’s sometimes worth a periodic reminder that this isn’t always so.

T

he basic rule is worth remembering, because you just about can’t go wrong by ordering Cabernet Sauvignon with a steak or Chardonnay with lobster. Or Chianti with spaghetti and meatballs and Zinfandel — red, of course — with a juicy burger. These are good things to know, particularly for a nervous wine novice wrestling with a restaurant wine list.

But how about chicken or turkey, with its light breast meat and dark thighs? Or pork, “the other white meat”? Most of these dishes will go delightfully with red wine or white, and your choice of sauce or side dishes may weigh more heavily in the balance than the meat itself.

The ultimate in-your-face exception to the rule, though — so much so that it was the title of a cheeky wine-matching book of the ’80s — is “Red wine and fish.”

If there’s any dish that seems obviously made for white wine, it’s seafood and fish: Sole, cod, haddock, scrod, scallops, lobster and crab are subtle, white-fleshed dishes that would seem too delicate to stand up to the competition of a dark and hearty red wine.

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But consider a slab of wild Alaskan salmon: What could be more red than that? Or for that matter, a bluefish fillet, a chunk of dark, oily mackerel, a sushi-grade ahi tuna steak or a sack of mussels. That’s not white! Darker, stronger-flavored fish and seafood can easily stand up to red wine, particularly if you choose a more delicate, fruity and non-tannic red. In the classic pairing, fresh wild salmon goes so well with Pinot Noir that many wine enthusiasts wouldn’t consider a white with this noble fish. Well … an excellent Oregon Pinot Gris, maybe, but still …

Tip the scales even further, if you will, by digging up Mediterranean recipes for white fish poached or braised in red wine, a preparation that demands a glass of red … perhaps the same wine used in the recipe. Red wine makes a splendid match, too, with the shellfish and fish in a hearty Spanish paella.

To sum it up, white wine works with seafood and fish because whites tend to be light and delicate, with extra credit if the wine brings a snappy acidity to the party. This mouth-watering, palatecleansing tartness works with the fish in very much the same way as a squirt of lemon. But if your fish selection is powerful, dark and

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red, or if red wine is used in its preparation, then it makes sense to choose a dry red wine to match. It’s best, though, to avoid more tannic — astringent — reds, which may create funny flavor combinations with the fish.Where a red is called for, pass over the hearty Cabernet or Shiraz in favor of lighter, acidic reds like Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or maybe a lighter-style Chianti.

The moral of today’s sermon should be obvious: Know the rules, but don’t be afraid to break them. It’s all right to drink what you like.

From my tasting files, here’s a red wine and a white wine, both affordable and locally available, that should go just fine with your fish dinner.

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[

]

sunshine and blue skies, just a sip away...

only at Liquor Barn

Quinta do Feital 2005 “Auratus” Alvarinho – Trajadura Vinho Regional Minho ($14) This medium-bodied, textured white wine from Portugal is pale in color, but hold it up to the light and it flashes glints of gold. Peach and mango aromas are pleasant but not overbearing. Mouthfilling fruit flavors create a first impression of sweetness, but it finishes dry and tart, with that desirable palate-cleansing snap that makes it a natural with fish. Its rather full body and texture helped it stand up nicely to an at-home replication of a hearty fish dish that I enjoyed recently in Tuscany: roast monkfish wrapped in pancetta with a sprig of fresh sage. I’ve seen this wine on sale locally at Gemelli Wines and St. Matthews Wine Co.

$7.99 750 ml $12.99 1.5 Liter

Au Bon Climat 2002 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir “Le Bon Climat” ($17.99) The aromas of this dark garnet are characteristic of Pinot Noir from California’s Central Coast, the setting for the movie “Sideways.” Plums, cherries and an unobtrusive dash of warm spice come together before a backdrop of cherry cola. Big, juicy and ripe in flavor, it’s fruitforward but nicely balanced, with pleasant earthy notes that become more evident as the wine opens up in the glass.

It made a great “red wine and fish” match with fresh yellowfin tuna steaks, crusted with black pepper and black mustard seeds, pan-seared and sushi-rare at the center. The Liquor Barn stores usually have a good selection of Au Bon Climat wines. F&D

90 Rating: Beverage Dynamics

Louisville Springhurst: 4301 Towne Center 426-4222 1800 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 491-0753 3420 Fern Valley Rd. 968-1666

Good Good thru 4/30/07 7/31/06

Open: M-Th: 9:00am-10:00pm Fri & Sat: 9:00am-12 M Sun:1:00pm - 9:00 pm Website: www.liquorbarn.com www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 35

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BY JERRY SLATER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

I

n previous columns I have only begun to scratch the surface of the world’s vast selection of spirits. I have written about vodka, rum and Bourbon, and even an article on where to go to sip those Bourbons. This time, however, I offer a spirits column with no spirits — a virgin article if you will. No, I’m not going teetotal. Rather, this report springs from my deep interest in mixing great cocktails. Let’s take a close look at the new wave of quality sodas, mixers, rimmers, bitters and garnishes that are easing the way for professional and home bartenders alike, taking no shortcuts in their quest for quality.

Once upon a time purists would scoff at bottled and pre-mixed cocktail mixes, scorning them as atrocities loaded with corn syrup, preservatives and Red Dye No. 6, nasty concoctions not worthy of their booze.

With the rise of a new cocktail culture, though, some companies have stepped up to the front lines of the mixology revolution. No longer are cocktailians limited to over-sugared, fake-colored, chemical-tasting options. Every good liquor store now offers classic and modern ingredients to satisfy even the most discriminating imbiber.

One such company, Stirrings, doesn’t merely raise the bar, it lifts the bar up and does an inebriated limbo under it. While many mixer makers specialize in one category, Stirrings sets its sights on being the most trusted name for superior cocktail

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products. Consider sodas, for instance, which range from classics like Coca-Cola (think rum) to sought-after sodas like Blenheim’s Ginger Ale or Kentucky’s own Ale-8 (think Bourbon), all known for excellent flavors and mixability.

Stirrings has cranked it up another notch by providing quality versions of even the most humble of sparklers — soda water and tonic, not to mention ginger ale, bitter lemon, grapefruit and cranberry sodas. The Stirrings website says all the company’s sodas are made with triplepurified, coal-filtered water infused with “champagne” carbonation. Its product line includes such impressive features as soda with fleur de sel sea salt, and tonic water with cane sugar and extract of cinchona bark. These are sodas for folks who think of cocktails much as chefs regard their next plate.

I would be remiss if I did not also mention Stirrings’ line of cocktail mixers and rimmers. Sixteen varieties of mixers include Bloody Mary, espresso martini, peach bellini, and spiced apple.

They’re all attractively packaged pre-mixes, natural and easy: Just add alcohol. Stirrings puts out an impressive 21 varieties of rimmers — the flavored and colored sugars and salts that garnish the rim of your martini glass — including chocolate peppermintini, holiday blend (for eggnog or mulled cider), and pie crustini.

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Normally, such concoctions might make me turn up a snobbish nose. But Stirrings’ dedication to quality ingredients and ease for the home cocktail maker made me take a second look. Try, for instance, combining wild blueberry mixer and pie crustini rimmer to make a wild blueberry martini.The combinations available from a selection of three mixers, two rimmers and a bottle of vodka could make an imaginative dinner party for eight.

The one disappointment from Stirrings for me is their blood orange bitters. Bitters should bring up the body of a cocktail, and this one seemed too sweet to add the necessary spicy and herbaceous pull. Three essential bitters I would recommend for every bar are Angostura, Peychaud’s, and Regan’s #6 orange bitters. Regan’s, made by Kentucky’s Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, is the saving grace in the hard-to-find orange bitters category. Angostura and the slightly rarer Peychaud’s are well-known and readily available. Peychaud’s slight cherry flavor is perfect for the New Orleans staple Sazerac, while Angostura’s more orange and herbal scent is mandatory for a Manhattan. Yes, I said “mandatory.” Let the debate begin.

To finish off your expertly made cocktail, a tasty and attractive garnish is a must. Most garnishes are made from fresh fruit, such as lime slices or orange wheels, but the condiment company Sable and Rosenfeld offers a useful alternative with its preserved garnishes.Their ‘Tipsy’ line of cocktail garnishes includes sake sushi olives (saketini), whiskey cherries (Manhattans), vodka jalapeño olives (Bloody Marys), vermouth onions (Gibsons) and vermouth olives (martinis), all of which can add definite flair to your cocktail.

Other companies out there surely await discovery, and with the new popularity of the cocktail more makers will jump on the quality-mixer bandwagon.

When you shop for these products look for natural ingredients devoid of preservatives or artificial flavors. Coming up with your own seductive taste combinations will provide a worthwhile reward at the end of your cocktail trip. F&D All of these mixers can be found at Liquor Barn.

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BY ROGER A. BAYLOR

The Old Man the Brew His mouth dry, his heart down, Nick reeled in. He had never seen so big a trout.There was a heaviness, a power not to be held, and then the bulk of him, as he jumped. He looked as broad as a salmon.

— Ernest Hemingway, from Big Two Hearted River: Part II During Hemingway’s youth, in the early 20th-century time and place that served as inspiration for his Nick Adams shor t stories, Michigan’s primarily wooded and rural Upper Peninsula still was home to scattered small-town breweries that produced golden German lager beers similar to those that dominate today’s international market. But true to the Bavarian custom, springtime saw the annual release of the much-anticipated Bock beer.

Although neither Hemingway nor his fictional alter ego Adams may have ever considered the possibility — “Papa” was inclined in later life to tout the dubious merits of light Spanish lagers — trout and Bock nevertheless suggest a fine flavor match: Bigger fish, bigger beer. Amber-brown Bock is medium-bodied and malty, clean on the palate, and boasts complex, toasty caramel flavors.

More than 40 years after the writer’s death, Michigan again is filled with small brewing companies. Bell’s from Kalamazoo crafts an homage to Hemingway called Two Hearted Ale, now widely available throughout the Midwest. At 6 percent alcohol, Two Hearted settles in at the high end of the American Pale Ale style category. And as expected, it offers a firm orange-hued body with bracing, citrus- and pine- accented floral hops. It’s delicious with the catch of the day, or all by itself.

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The required number of flounders to the kitchen … promptly sautéed in tarragon butter, deglazed with white wine, covered with stock, seasoned with dill and capers, and finally, along with the roe and milt, placed in preheated serving dishes, covered with aluminum foil, and (along with boiled potatoes and cucumber salad) conveyed to Steglitz by cab … candles had been lit. Lemon slices had been bedded on lettuce leaves. Chilled Riesling stood in readiness.

— Günter Grass, from The Flounder The northern European topography of the continent’s Baltic coastline can be strikingly similar to that of Michigan. The inland ground is flat, and the proximity of water, albeit salty, informs the senses. You’ll find no vineyards there, though; and while Grass’s description of a flounder feast is enticing, it seems somehow

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inauthentic to accompany these flatfish with imported Riesling.

Hoppy and biting golden Pilsner beers are currently brewed in every Hanseatic port that boasts a brick church, a fishing boat and local legends about the Thirty Years War. These common lagers are served in delicate, undersize glasses to people who congregate in pubs located near the dockside action, but they would better be saved for little new herrings in springtime.

Better yet, depending on the locale, the ubiquitous herring in every conceivable mode of preparation — raw, smoked, grilled or pickled — might be washed down with Baltic-style Por ter, which is dark, heavy, sweet and dry all at the same time, and almost always in the 8 percent alcohol-by-volume range. My favorites?

Zwiec and Okocim, both Polish.

As for the Riesling substitute, look not to Pilsner but rather to the beer that the Germans label as Export Lager. It’s a tad stronger in alcohol, sweeter in the malt, and heavier in body than Pilsner. Export exhibits greater balance, with less dry or herbal hop character. Ironically, the best known examples shipped to America are not brewed near the Baltic but deep inside Germany: Dortmunder Actien (DAB) and Ayinger Jahrhundert.

At some point later in the century, it was discovered that if the cooked salt cod was placed in an earthen casserole with warm but not at all sizzling oil and garlic, and the casserole was moved in a circular motion over a very low heat, the oil would thicken into a creamy, opaque, ivory-colored sauce.

— Mark Kurlansky, from The Basque History of the World Café culture in Basque country is splendid. The ambience is relaxed, and families are welcome. Bar snacks remain tasty, ingratiating and inexpensive, in contrast with an outside world increasingly taken with designer tapas establishments.

Of course, wine is plentiful, and local alcoholic delicacies like Pacheran, the Basque wild-cherry and herb liqueur, are forever demanding of one’s scrutiny.

Unfortunately, the beer scene is one that only our earnest Ernest could have loved. Stepping outside of the prevalent simplistic lager box to find intriguing combinations of good beer and earthy,

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elemental Basque cooking requires a sizeable element of BYOB — in this case, “Bring Your Own Belgian.”

I’ve enjoyed the salt cod and ligado sauce — the contemporary variant of Kurlansky’s “pil pil” — while admiring the ocean in lovely San Sebastian, and once feasted for hours on a monumental sea bass prepared by an army of chefs from a very big restaurant situated in a very small village clinging to the side of the Pyrenees foothills near Pamplona. On both occasions, dutiful San Miguel struggled to be noticed. It’s simply too light and watery to manage.

Rather, my thoughts while eating salt cod and green seasonal mixed salad turned to Saison — golden or pale amber ale, hop-laced, peppery and redolent of yeasty esters — that originated in French-speaking Wallonia in Belgium. The honest, artisanal character of the best Saisons, including the holy trinity of Saison Dupont, Moinette and Foret, is fully in keeping with the “slow food” freshness and care found in Basque cuisine, and a touch of bottleconditioned effervescence is appropriate.

Perky Saison would have worked just as well with the sea bass, but at the time another, arguably more polished Belgian style, Tripel, seemed the superior choice.

Tripel Karmeliet, Westmalle, Piraat … the choices swirled through my head, but were unavailable at any price outside my imagination.

As an oft-experienced secular offshoot of the monastic brewing tradition, Tripel’s alcoholic heft (circa 8-9 percent alcohol by volume) matches that of Saison, but the flavor is comparatively urbane: Richer and sweeter in the malt, displaying little bitterness and no funky esters, and an often elegant fruitiness that can include yeasty elements of citrus, vanilla, and even apricots or peaches.

I arranged the mustard sardines on whole wheat toast and topped with a big sliced onion. My roomie fled the room in disgust. The only beer in the fridge was one of his canned Falls City beers, contract brewed God knows where. Actually, it wasn’t bad.

— Roger A. Baylor, from an unpublished 1988 journal entry.

Well, what can I say? It seemed right at the time … F&D These beers can be found at Liquor Barn. www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 39

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BY DAVID LANGE

Coffee...

it’s not just for for drinking anymore

A

nyone who knows me well can tell you that I drink a lot of coffee. But now I don’t just drink that energizing elixir … I eat it. I don’t mean stuffing spoonfuls of whole beans or ground coffee in my mouth, of course. I’m talking about using finely ground or freshly brewed coffee as a seasoning or even an ingredient. Southerners have long known that coffee adds a deep, smoky body to barbecue sauce; and coffee-tinged “redeye” gravy is a staple dish of truck stops and diners from Albuquerque to Augusta.

If you think the idea of eating coffee sounds weird, don’t be such a drip. Coffee lends an unusual yet pleasant and aromatic note to many foods, including dishes that aren’t meant for dessert.

What ingredients taste best cooked with coffee?

What do foods cooked with coffee taste like?

It depends on the recipe. Usually you want to brew up a rich strong “cuppa joe” at single or double strength, but some procedures call for simply using ground coffee beans as a spice rub. Espresso packs the most concentrated flavor in little liquid, so it’s often used for baked goods where the ratio of dry to wet ingredients is impor tant.

Pair strongly brewed coffee with red meats, and match milder coffee with fowl or fruit. Consider the inherent flavors in a par ticular bean, just as you would when picking the right wine for cooking: fruity, dusky, acid, mellow, spicy, sweet … Let the coffee’s flavor either contrast with or complement the other flavors in the dish.

If you use coffee judiciously, savory coffee-based dishes won’t taste like coffee at all.They will, however, retain the unique, robust depth of flavor that characterizes coffee — along with pungent, roasted undertones and hints of acidity. Desserts that feature coffee, on the other hand, are meant to let the full flavor shine through, so their ingredients are designed to promote the coffee taste. In cooking, coffee should be treated as a spice. Lighter roasts are more delicate but also more acidic, while darker roasts are robust, toasty and strong.

It’s these darker roasts that work best in cooked dishes where the coffee must hold its own against other powerful flavors.

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Choose robust, powerful foods — there’s nothing subtle about the taste of coffee. Coffee is the perfect partner to ingredients that mirror its dark, velvety, caramelized qualities: chocolate, nuts, and spices such as vanilla, cardamom, cloves and nutmeg. It also works well with other acidic flavors such as orange and lemon, even blackcurrant. Coffee also shines in partnerships where it contrasts with something sweet and creamy: custards, ice cream, light mousses and panna cottas. It’s always a winner with spirits, too, from Armagnac to vodka.

How should coffee be prepared for cooking?

On the other hand, cooking is not an exact science. If all you have at home is a Mocha Java blend, use it. Likely no one will know but you, unless they’re coffeecookery maniacs. Use ground coffee if you’re creating a sauce or other dish in which you want the coffee flavor, in all its complexity, to dominate. For the finest flavor, grind the beans just before you use them. While wine contains as many as 150 different flavor compounds, coffee boasts around 900. But as soon as beans are roasted, the oils that carry these delicious aromatic elements begin to oxidize. Once they’re ground, this happens a lot faster.You can detect deterioration within 30 minutes after grinding, so don’t do this step early.

After you have opened a pack of beans or ground coffee, keep it in an airtight container in a cold, dry place, ideally for no more than a week.

Much like a spice, coffee can be used to add a nutty, burnt-sugar tone to all sor ts of dishes. Because it’s roasted, its “torrefied” flavors work par ticularly well with other toasty flavors, from chocolate to caramel and nuts.

If you want to adapt a recipe by adding coffee, it’s important to keep things in balance. Adding more than a couple of teaspoons of extra liquid or strong coffee flavor could upset the balance of a dish.Try infusing cream or milk with whole beans or ground coffee, then strain them out before using the liquid in your recipe. Make fiercely strong espresso so only a tiny shot is needed; or make a paste with a teaspoon

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of instant coffee and a little water as your coffee flavoring base. For flavoring, you should make the coffee at least twice as strong as you would usually drink it.

Here’s an even simpler way to get your coffee kick: Use it as a syrup, perfect for drizzling over hazelnut meringues, creamy mousses or warm-from-the-oven chocolate brownies. Faster still, add a coffee boost by simply pouring it on, as in the straightforward but delicious Italian afogato, which is a shot of espresso poured over a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Use the very best coffee with the finest ice cream, and you have the ultimate coffee dessert: sweet yet sophisticated; simple but utterly scrumptious.

Here in Louisville, many of our creative chefs have created coffee-based dishes.

Anoosh Shariat of Park Place has featured duck breast and lamb with a coffee crust, while Peng Looi of Asiatique has introduced us to his hoisin-marinated Peking duck breast with a cabernet-espresso reduction. Chefs Dean Corbett and Dan Thomas at Equus have featured an espresso and honey marinated pork tenderloin. Jack Fry’s Chef Shawn Ward’s upscale take on shrimp and grits with red-eye gravy has become a signature dish, and at Proof on Main, Chef Michael Paley has featured a rock shrimp risotto finished with an espresso red-eye gravy. Indeed, Shariat, Looi and Nathan Carlson, formerly of Avalon, once participated in a local Iron Chef competition where coffee was the secret ingredient. (Shariat won in a very close contest.) Many popular local desserts feature coffee, such as Ethan Ray’s delightful cappuccino panna cotta at Asiatique.

I recently invited LouisvilleHotBytes Forum readers to contribute recipes that incorporated coffee, and I was inundated with so many that it was almost overwhelming. Some of the many memorable nominations included a smoked paprika coffee rub from the Old Stone Inn, a carrot soup with a coffee bean accent from the Oakroom, and an ancho chili coffee torte from Gourmet For Everyone. Wherever you look, coffee is being used more and more in culinary efforts.

So coffee is literally not just for breakfast any more.To energize your morning, or to celebrate the finale of a great meal, try to incorporate coffee in your cooking and baking rituals. Then you will appreciate the complexities and variations of this versatile fruit, the coffee bean. F&D www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 41

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recipes top chef recipes

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Cooking with Coffee traditional pick-me-up gives dishes a jolt

W

hen Food & Dining invited Sullivan University chefs John Castro and David Dodd to create recipes with coffee as a distinct ingredient, they knew it would be a challenge.

“It’s not something I do often,” said Dodd, chair of the weekend and evening culinary programs in Sullivan’s National Center for Hospitality Studies. “It’s not easy to pair coffee with food. It’s such an overpowering flavor, you have to be careful not to use too much.”

Castro, executive chef of Winston’s restaurant, agreed. “You have to look for ingredients with enough power to withstand the coffee,” he said. “Coffee is so strong, so distinct, you have to find something that doesn’t compete but actually goes with it.”

For those reasons, Dodd said, fish wouldn’t work: “It’s too delicate, the coffee’s too much. If you tone it down — try to take that coffee flavor and mild it out to the point where it’s rounded and sweet — it’s just not going to work. It’s a matter of balance.”

Still, when the going gets tough, the tough get going. And, likening coffee to hot chile peppers, black pepper, molasses or

other strong but delicious flavors that work best when used with discretion, they came up with four winners.

Following their own good advice about pairing coffee with robust foods that match, they built hearty main courses based on lamb, bison, pork and duck, featuring bold, spicy and fruity flavors that can stand up and talk back to coffee’s dark, bittersweet vibe.

For his coffee caramelized pork tenderloin, Dodd chose the bright Caribbean flavors of papaya and cassava (yuca) plus bitter radicchio and endive, then rounded out the coffee flavor with brown sugar to build a bold, colorful dish with a distinct tropical accent. His duck dish and Castro’s lamb shanks balance coffee flavors against dark and earthy meat; and Castro’s bison chili makes coffee just one player in a noisy mariachi band of Southwestern flavors.

We think you’ll love these dishes, and Castro says you needn’t worry that their coffee-flavored creations will keep you awake at night: “You wouldn’t want to use that much coffee,” he advised.

“It would be terrible.”

Chef David Dodd’s Mocha Duck

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Chef John Castro’s Espresso Dusted Braised Lamb Shank

Chef David Dodd’s Coffee Caramelized Pork Tenderloin

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Guest Chef

John Castro Chef Instructor – Sullivan University

Espresso Dusted Braised Lamb Shank (SERVES 4) For the lamb: 4 lamb shanks 11/2 teaspoons ground espresso Salt and black pepper to taste 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil 5 shallots 1 bulb of garlic 1 rib of celery 4 cups Merlot or other dry red wine 3 cups chicken stock 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme 1 sprig rosemary For the accompaniment: 4 tablespoons butter 1 carrot 5 shallots 1 rib celery 2 cups chicken broth (may use canned) 2 heads escarole 2 cups cooked cannellini beans Salt and pepper to taste For the lamb: 1. Season the lamb shanks with the espresso and salt and pepper to taste. Heat the grapeseed oil in a large roasting pan.

Add the lamb shanks and brown them well on all sides.

2. Peel and mince the shallots and the garlic; finely chop the rib of celery. When the lamb shanks are browned, remove them and hold them in a warm place; put the minced vegetables in the roasting pan and cook them until tender. Add the red

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wine, the chicken stock and the herbs; bring back to a boil, and cook over medium-high heat until the liquid reduces by half.

3. Return the lamb shanks to the pot and cook covered for about 11/2 hours, stirring occasionally. Remove the cover and cook for another hour, uncovered, until the lamb is very tender.

For the accompaniment: 1. Peel the carrot and the shallots; chop them and the celery fine.

2. Heat the butter in a large pan, add the chopped vegetables and cook until tender.

Then add the chicken broth and cook over medium-high heat until it’s reduced by half.

3. Wash and chop the escarole, reduce heat, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes until the escarole leaves wilt. Add the cooked beans and heat through, stirring frequently.

Coffee Bison Chili (SERVES 10) 6 slices chopped peppered bacon 5 pounds boneless bison chuck cut into 1 /2-inch cubes 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 4 white onions 1 bulb of garlic 1 red bell pepper 1 green bell pepper 1 fresh jalapeño pepper 1 /2 cup chili powder 11/2 tablespoons cumin 1 tablespoon dried oregano 16-ounce can chopped tomatoes with juice 20 ounces beef broth 12-ounce bottle of beer 2 cans of chili beans 1 teaspoon fresh ground coffee 20 ounces hominy, drained, or 10 ounces dried pozole rehydrated overnight Salt and pepper to taste 1. Using a large, heavy-bottom pot, cook the chopped bacon until crisp. Add the grapeseed oil, then put in the bison cubes and brown them well.

2. Peel and chop the onions and garlic.

Remove seeds and ribs and chop the red and green bell peppers and the jalapeño.

Add all these vegetables to the pot with the bacon and browned bison; cover and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Add all the other ingredients and cook covered over low heat 11/2 to 2 hours or until the bison is tender.

4. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 10 minutes. Check and adjust seasoning and serve with favorite chili toppings.

Guest Chef

David Dodd Chef Instructor – Sullivan University

Coffee Caramelized Pork Tenderloin (SERVES 2) 1 pork tenderloin 2 tablespoons instant coffee granules 1 /4 cup brown sugar Cassava (also known as yuca or manioc, available in Latino markets), enough to make 2 cups when peeled and diced 1 /2 of a red onion Olive oil 1 papaya 1 cup hot, black coffee (to deglaze pan) 1 cup sliced radicchio 1 cup torn curly endive 1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Trim the pork tenderloin of visible fat. Combine the coffee and brown sugar and smother the tenderloin with this mixture.

2. Place the prepared pork tenderloin in a roasting pan and roast for about 30 minutes or until its internal temperature reaches 150 degrees.

3. Meanwhile, peel and dice the cassava and cook it in boiling water until tender.

Drain and mash.

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4. Slice the onion thin and cook the slices until caramelized in a hot pan sprayed with a little olive oil. Set aside.

5. Peel and seed the papaya and cut it lengthwise into thin slices. Arrange the slices of papaya in a fan pattern from the center to one edge of warm dinner plates.

Pipe or spoon mashed cassava in the center of each plate.

6. Remove the pork from the oven and let it rest for about 5 minutes. Deglaze the roasting pan with cup of hot coffee and cook over medium-high heat until it’s reduced by half. Cut the pork into 1-inchthick slices and arrange them around the mashed cassava on the other side of the plate from the papaya slices.

7. Slice the radicchio thin and mix it with the reserved caramelized onions, placing this mixture as a garnish below the papaya fan. Tear the curly endive into shreds and use them to top the radicchio-and-onion garnish.

8. Drizzle with the reduced coffee pan gravy to finish.

Mocha Duck (SERVES 2) For the duck rub 1 tablespoon instant coffee 1 tablespoon cocoa powder 1 tablespoon sugar 1 /2 teaspoon salt

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For the duck 2 duck breasts, skin on Parsnips, enough to make 2 cups diced Olive oil spray 1 large baking potato Canola oil for deep-frying 1 head Belgian endive, separated into leaves Microgreens 2 orange slices For the sauce 1 tablespoon cocoa powder 1 tablespoon instant coffee 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon raw sugar 1 cup duck or veal stock 2 tablespoon softened butter 1. Combine all rub ingredients and apply it generously on the duck breasts. Sear the seasoned duck breasts in a hot pan skinside down for a few moments or until they brown.

2. Smoke or roast the duck breasts until the meat is pink, approximately 75 minutes at 180 degrees in a smoker or 15 minutes in a 375-degree oven.

3. Meanwhile, peel and dice the parsnips, spray them with a little olive oil, and roast them in a shallow pan or on a cookie sheet at 375 degrees until tender and brown.

4. Peel the potato and cut it into thin julienne strips. Deep fry in canola oil at 350 degrees until golden brown.

5. Prepare the sauce: Mix the cocoa powder, instant coffee, cornstarch and raw sugar together, then stir in a small amount of the stock to make a slurry. Bring the remaining stock to a boil, and add the slurry to the boiling stock, whisking to thicken. Finish by whisking in the softened butter.

6. Caramelize the two orange slices by browning them in a little olive oil spray.

7. Set a portion of the parsnips in the centers of two warmed dinner plates.

Arrange the Belgian endive leaves on top.

Slice breast of duck into four equal slices, and place two slices on top of each mound of parsnips. Heap the julienned potatoes on the duck and top with microgreens.

Place a caramelized orange slice on one side of each plate and drizzle with the sauce to finish. F&D

Chef John Castro’s Coffee Bison Chili

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BY STEVE COOMES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

Pizza it’s a matter of style Ask for pizza in New York City and you’ll receive a thin, triangular wedge topped with tomato sauce and cheese on a thin crust that you fold over like a sandwich to eat. Go to Chicago and make the same request and you’ll be handed a deep-dish slab with a thick base of yeasty Italian bread topped with layers of toppings, sauce and cheese. These traditional regional pizza styles are clearly defined and widely accepted. But how about Louisville? Most pizza experts agree that the Derby City’s unique gift to the world of pizza is the massive, meal-on-a-plate pie that landmark pizzerias like Impellizzeri’s, Wick’s and Clifton’s made famous: An oversize round of medium-thick, crisp crust piled high with layers of sauce followed by toppings, cheese and then still more toppings. Here’s our up-close-and-personal look at pizza, Louisville-style.

(Pictured is a pizza standard — pepperoni with cheese — from Bearno’s by the Bridge.)

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about food pizza

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BY STEVE COOMES | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN DRY

or most native Louisvillians 40 or older, childhood pizzeria memories are, well, not particularly memorable.

Cracker-style bases slathered with ordinary tomato sauce were de rigueur at regional chains like Pasquale’s and Mario’s throughout the ’60s, though a handful of locals like Calandrino’s and Lentini’s injected some Old World pizzazz into the humble pie.

As they migrated eastward, chains like Pizza Inn, Pizza Hut and Shakey’s Pizza supplied savor y, chewy models that broadened hometown palates. But the real expansion of Louisville’s pizza horizons began when Hal and Kenny Mooney launched Bearno’s Little Sicily in 1977.

The pie at their modest Taylorsville Road store was heavy on cheese; its sauce boasted a mouth-watering kick, and it piled on more toppings than the competition.

Customers recognized and appreciated the difference; business boomed, and new stores soon followed.

Only two years would pass before yet another upstart challenged Bearno’s reign as Louisville’s true hometown pizzeria: In 1979, the Impellizzeri family opened their namesake pizzeria on Bardstown Road about two miles toward town from the original Bearno’s spot near Bowman Field.

Impellizzeri’s pizza was like no other; it was a mold-breaking, mouth-filling mass of

cheese and meat fit to sate a dozen frat boys. The pizza started with a thin crust coated with a robust sauce followed by a dense layer of meats and vegetables. A quilt-thick layer of cheese came next, followed by still more toppings.

It was cut in squares, and the squares were not foldable and floppy like the wedge-shaped New York-style slice.

Deconstruction required a fork, a knife, patience and multiple paisanos.

“We had large portions of everything at home, and that’s how we built our pizzas,” said Tony Impellizzeri Jr., whose wir y frame bears no trace of such consumptive history. He and his brother, Benny, went to work at the family pizzeria with their father,Tony Sr.“The recipes were Mom’s and Grandma’s,” he said, “but we modernized them a bit to where you could actually sell them.”

One smitten patron was a skinny teen named Michael Wickliffe, whose mother took him to Impellizzeri’s when she could afford the comparatively expensive meal.

The magnificent heft of every bite so impressed the young man that, when he opened Wick’s Pizza in 1991, he tried to emulate the Impellizzeri’s pizza style.

“That was the sensation I wanted with mine,” Wickliffe said. “If (the Impellizzeri’s) don’t know it, they should: I did try to model mine after theirs. … Theirs was

much richer and spicier than mine, more Italian. I call mine an American Impellizzeri’s.”

Impellizzeri’s fan base also included Mark Langley and Ray Perkins, a pair who shared ownership of Clifton’s Pizza, opened in 1990. Clifton’s pies still reflect the “under-over” toppings-cheese-toppings combo that Impellizzeri’s innovated, but Langely called his product a bit lighter.

“We were trying to do something in between what Impellizzeri’s and the fastfood pizza chains were doing,” said Langley, now sole owner of the lower Frankfort Avenue spot. Still, he admits Clifton’s pies aren’t lightweights. “I like to eat, so the portions we have are based on that.”

Perkins took the piled-high strategy with him when he left Clifton’s to launch Chubby Ray’s Original Louisville Pizza Co. in Jeffersontown in 1992.The store’s 16-inch Pride of Louisville pie comes with a $25 price tag and feeds at least six.

“Bearno’s always put a good amount of topping on its pizzas, but Impellizzeri’s was the first to put on a lot,” Perkins said.

“It was always different, and I liked it.”

If New York and Chicago have definable pizza styles, does Louisville? And if so, does the heavyweight over-under pie define it? Perkins thinks so, but Wickliffe is not sure it’s a distinct variation. And Impellizzeri, whose family started the whole

At left, Jesse Brown of Wick’s Pizza Parlor strains as he unloads a 10-pound Big Wick (pictured below and right) from the oven.

The Big Wick is a classic Louisville-style pizza that, we are told, includes everything but the kitchen sink.

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thing here, isn’t convinced either. He sees inspiration drawn from many pizza styles.

George Timmering, who owns and operates a handful of Bearno’s outlets and is a corporate shareholder of the 30year-old local chain, doesn’t believe that there’s a clear Louisville pizza style either.

Local operators simply borrow — and steal — ideas from each other, he said, and that’s where the similarities arise.

GOURMET ALL THE WAY Tony Palombino is a Louisville native, too, but the pizza that he brings to the local mix bears none of the weighty mass of his legendary competitors. The ownerfranchisor of Tony Boombozz Pizza and Panini, Palombino wanted to be first to deliver gourmet pizza when he opened in 1998. The Boombozz combination, a thin New York-style crust bearing unique toppings such as potatoes and prosciutto, blue and fontina cheeses, caught fire when a 1999 Courier-Journal article spotlighted his award-winning St. Matthews operation.

“We basically saw business go up 40 percent overnight,” Palombino said. “There

The Pollotate pizza from Tony Boombozz Pizza & Vino is a California-style pie topped with marinated chicken, roasted potatoes and red onions on a garlic herb crust with asiago and mozzarella cheeses.

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wasn’t a gourmet center-of-the-plate pizza at the time. Allo Spiedo was doing great pizza, but they didn’t deliver. That was our niche.”

When the third local Boombozz property opened in 2005, Palombino took another step away from Louisville’s piledhigh tradition by adding a thin-and-crispy Neapolitan-style crust to the menu. The crust’s fragility mandates minimal toppings, typically featuring herbs, veggies and cheeses. The move, Palombino said, was to further differentiate his pizza from the competition.

“There’s a lot of great pizza in this town, but I wanted mine to be unique,” said Palombino, whose pies twice have won Pizza of the Year at the International Pizza Expo, a trade-centered event held annually in Las Vegas.

Matthew Ptasienski feels the same way about the Chicago-style stuffed pizza he serves at Windy City Pizza, located on South Fourth Street between U of L and Churchill Downs. Problem is, not everyone understands or appreciates the mega-duty, meal-in-a-slice, double-crusted pie.

“A lot like it, but others don’t get it,” said Ptasienski.“A lot of people don’t know the stuffed pizza, which is what I call a true Chicago-style. But if I can get them to try it once, I can get them to come back.”

Ptasienski also sells thin crust pizzas, which make up about 60 percent of his pizza sales. But his heart is in converting locals to stuffed pizza, something he calls a whole different dining experience.

“There’s so much there that you’re going to wait at least 20 minutes after you order it,” he said. “I use a mozzarellaprovolone blend that melts so smoothly, and it has an almost buttery flavor. When it’s almost done, it’s pulled out of the oven and a second layer of sauce put on top of the top crust. This isn’t deep dish, and it’s not stuffed crust — that’s a chain thing.”

Lee Varon feels similar pride about the “authentic New York-style pizza” he serves up at Fat Tony’s on Linn Station Road.

Open nearly two years, Fat Tony’s has had its work cut out for it teaching customers why great pizza costs a little more, Varon said. Once converted, however, he sees

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them returning from as far away as Oldham County.

“I think you’re going to find the difference between ours and chains is obvious,” he said. “There’s more flavor because we use better ingredients. As far as a traditional New York-style pizza, I think we’re head and shoulders above the rest.”

CHALLENGED BY CHAINS When it comes to pizza, Louisville is a chain kind of town — perhaps no surprise in a city that’s home to both Papa John’s, the world’s third-largest pizza chain, and Yum! Brands, the parent corporation of Dallas-based Pizza Hut, the industry’s 400pound gorilla.

Of Louisville’s approximately 150 pizzerias, 72 percent are chain units. By contrast, the chain-to-independent ratio in New York City’s 2,750 pizzerias is 5 percent to 95 percent.

Unlike many restaurant concepts, the pizza business is heavily coupon-driven, a sales leverage tool well used by chains.

Most local independents said they also play the coupon game, but only grudgingly.

The heavyweight at Clifton’s Pizza is the “9 for 5” — a Louisville-style 14-inch pie piled high with nine assorted toppings.

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Perkins said the discounts don’t do much to boost business, but many pizza customers are conditioned to recognize value in a discounted offering, even if it doesn’t amount to much.

“About 50 to 60 percent of our delivery customers use coupons, but only 5 percent of my business is carryout and delivery,” Perkins said. “In dine-in, which is the bulk of my business, only about 5 to 10 percent use coupons.”

A typical chain operation delivers at least 80 percent of its orders, compared with Louisville Pizza Co., where 95 percent of the business is dine-in. At Clifton’s and Wicks, about 70 percent of customers dine-in. About half of Boombozz’s business is delivery.

Independent operators say thriving in this market doesn’t come from trying to beat chains at their own game.The keys to success are better food, comfortable seating and relaxed service. Throw in a good selection of adult beverages and some televisions for sports events, and you give customers good reasons to shun the corporate competition.

“If Louisville or Kentucky has a major game, you have to come a couple of hours before the game to get a seat. It’s that busy,” Perkins said. “We’re selling atmosphere here as well as food.”

Combining live music and a full bar, Wick’s Pizza Pub on Baxter at Highland draws an eclectic crowd well into the wee hours. The same model applies to Wickliffe’s other three units, but all draw different crowds at different times. As perhaps the city’s top pub crawl, though, Baxter is sui generis, with crowds seeking sustenance far into the night, and finding plenty of it at Wick’s and at Spinelli’s Pizza, which sells monstrous pizzas by the slice and provides some of the best peoplewatching on the strip. “It’s catching what your niche is,” Wickliffe said.“Not everyone is in bed at 9 or 10 o’clock at night.”

Langley said his deliberate focus on families kept him from serving liquor at Clifton’s. His live music lineup also is decidedly folksier than Wick’s. “Wick’s gears itself more toward the bar than I do.

I’ve got nothing against college-age kids, but that’s not the crowd I wanted to

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attract. I think that’s par tly why I’m successful.”

When Palombino opened Tony Boombozz Pizza and Vino on Hurstbourne Lane last year, he expected the fast-casual pizzeria to draw a lot of mature diners looking for a quieter-than-a-pizzeria experience. To be sure, those customers came, but what Palombino didn’t expect was that hundreds of families and ball teams would join them.“I was surprised by the amount of children that we got,” he said.“We didn’t open up with balloons and crayons and coloring mats or even a kid’s menu, but we’ve since had to cater to that.”

His next restaurant, slated to open this year, will have party rooms better suited to muffling the noise generated by multiple kids’ teams frequenting his current spot. He wants them to have their fun, but he wants to provide some calm for other diners, too. “We’ve probably upset some customers who wanted a quiet evening with a glass of wine, but we’re addressing that.There’s a demand for both.”

Ironically, a chain intrusion two years ago did Boombozz some good. When the nation’s largest gourmet pizza chain, California Pizza Kitchen, came to town, it boosted Boombozz’s business instead of draining it. Palombino said the company’s array of high-end, wildly topped pies “validated our product. Instead of people telling us, ‘You’re copying California Pizza Kitchen,’ people eat there and say, ‘This is like Tony Boombozz.’ ” SIMILAR, BUT EVOLVING As it prepares to open unit No. 16 in Prospect, Bearno’s will celebrate its 30th anniversary this year. The company has seen its share of successes and failures, peaking at nearly 30 stores in the late ’90s before sliding backward following multiple unit closures. Timmering said several franchise partnerships soured, including a failed China endeavor. He believes the chain is positioned for a revival, however, as he and other franchisees are remodeling units.

Spin Cycle In the 1950s and ’60s, pizza makers were a blend of chef and showman who tossed and spun every dough skin overhead to stretch it to its desired size.The sight of a delicate, white, whirling disc overhead was, and still is, eye-catching.

But as delivery chain stores grew in number and production speed increased, spinning gave way to “slapping,” another means of stretching dough that’s less theatrical than the over-the-head maneuver, but just as effective.

Spinning creates the centrifugal force that stretches the dough. Slapping does the same by forcefully tossing the dough skin back and forth between the pizza maker’s hands and turning it 90 degrees with each pass to make the stretch uniform. The muffled “pop” produced by each slap gives the technique its name. (Visit Domino’s or Papa John’s to see for yourself.)

Since slapping is speedier than spinning, it’s the method preferred by competitive pizza makers. It’s also an easier technique to master, which means better product consistency, less waste and better sanitation in the pizzeria.

Old-fashioned dough tossing lives on at many pizzerias that produce New York-style crusts. Other styles don’t require such aggressive handling, so you’ll not find spinners or slappers everywhere. Plus, as pizzeria dining rooms diminished to accommodate the delivery-carryout culture, working pizza makers disappeared behind the curtain, so to speak. (pictured) Spinmeisters at work: Spinelli’s James Feeney demonstrates the fine art of pizza tossing.

“For the first 20 years, Bearno’s was 100 percent family dining. But over the past five, you’ve seen a lot of change,” said Timmering, who spent nearly $250,000 remodeling his Main Street store near the Second Street Bridge. Other franchisees have developed their bar business to broaden guest options. “I think there’s probably an opportunity for us to become the Beef O’Brady’s of pizza and have that family spor ts pub atmosphere people like.”

Of the Impellizzeri family, only Tony remains in the pizza business. His father died in 1987, and two outlets added by his brother are closed. The original Bardstown Road store is closed, too. The last Impellizzeri’s operating is on Vieux Carre Drive, off Shelbyville Road near Hurstbourne.

Like many independent operators, Impellizzeri is a hands-on, long-hours guy who works “here from morning to night,” he said, laughing. “You have to love it, and I do love it.”

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The fact that his family’s recipe has been copied by some competitors flatters him, although he said it used to bother his brother. “He was afraid someone would snag his business away from him by doing that, but I just don’t worry about that. I do the very best I can do, and people respond.”

The key to business longevity in Louisville, he said, is taking care of the customer. That means making the dough himself, fashioning his sausage by hand, grating all his own cheese and cutting all his vegetables. The price of his pizzas — double to triple the cost of a gardenvariety one-topping chain special — is tied up in his labor, he said. And the proof that his customers appreciate the effort is shown in the hour-and-a-half wait for a pizza on weekends.

“I don’t chase the money, and that means I’m not going to put out an inferior product,” he said.“As long as you do things right and take care of the product, the customer is going to be there. I don’t try to sell the most, I try to sell the best.” F&D

AS A MATTER OF FACT Number of pizzerias in U.S.: approximately 64,000 Number of pizzerias in Louisville: approximately 150

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PIZZA STYLE GUIDE Pizza styles are mostly defined by their crusts. Here’s a brief primer.

California-style: Dough is similar to New York-style but somewhat softer, and toppings include everything from salmon to truffles.

WHERE:

Tony Boombozz, California Pizza Kitchen, Martini Italian Bistro and Stratto’s.

Chicago-style: A thick, cornmeal-infused dough pressed into a deep pan followed by cheese, toppings and red sauce. A Chicago stuffed pizza adds a second layer of dough atop the toppings and then more sauce.

WHERE:

Pizzeria Uno and Windy City

Pizzeria.

Louisville-style: Medium-thick, crispy crust piled exceptionally high with layers of sauce followed by toppings, cheese and then still more toppings.

WHERE: Tony Impellizzeri’s Pizza, Clifton’s Pizza and Wick’s Pizza take credit for working out this uniquely Louisville pie, with Angilo’s Pizza, Angio’s Pizza, Danny Mac’s, Jockamo’s Pizza, Louisville Pizza Co., Iroquois Pizza, Ma Zarella’s,The Pizza Box, Pizza by the Guy, Pizza Place, Saints and Sportstime Pizza also offering variations.

Midwest-style: Thin cracker-style crust.

WHERE: Arni’s Pizza and Bearno’s.

Neapolitan-style: Very thin and crispy

Number of pizzerias in New York City: approximately 2,750

hand-tossed crust.

WHERE:

Number of pizzas sold annually in U.S.: approximately 4.3 billion

Amici, Buca di Beppo, Vito’s Pizzeria and Tony Boombozz. Full-service restaurants Primo and Lentini’s also offer fine Neapolitan-style pies.

Annual U.S. pizza industry sales: $32 billion

New York-style: Foldable, thin and chewy

Annual mozzarella use for U.S. pizza: 2.5 billion pounds

crust with a sizeable edge.

WHERE:

Percentage of chains to independents in Louisville: 72% to 28%

Fat Tony’s Pizza, Luigi’s Pizza, Frascelli’s and Spinelli’s Pizza offer an authentic NYC slice. Others billing their pizza style as New York-style include Annie’s, Bruno’s Pizza, Fast Break Pizza, Fat Jimmy’s Pizza, Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza, Frolio’s Pizza, King Benny’s Pizza, Pizza King, Rocky’s Italian Grill, Savino’s Italina, Snappy Tomato and Za’s Pizza.

Percentage of chains to independents in New York City: 5% to 95%

Pan-style: Medium-thick dough pressed into a well-oiled pan, produces a lightly fried crust.

Oldest U.S. pizzeria: Lombardi’s Coal Oven Pizza, 1905, New York City Oldest pizzeria in Louisville: Angilo’s, 1957

Percentage of chains to independents nationwide: 55% to 45%

WHERE: American Pizza and Fresco South-

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CUISINE STYLES

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX

dining guide

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ALL RESTAURANTS LISTED ALPHABETICALLY, FOLLOWED BY THE PAGE NUMBER OF ITS REVIEW, IT’S CUISINE STYLE, AND THE CORRESPONDING MAP NUMBER(S). [ ] DENOTES UNMAPPED MULTIPLE LOCATIONS.

RESTAURANT

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AFRICAN 73 ASIAN/CHINESE 73 ASIAN/FILIPINO 75 ASIAN/JAPANESE 75 ASIAN/KOREAN 76 ASIAN/THAI 76 ASIAN/VIETNAMESE 76 BAR & GRILL 71 BARBECUE 70 BISTRO/CONTEMPORARY 60 CAFÉS 6 2 CAFETERIAS 67 CAJUN/CREOLE 79 CARIBBEAN/CUBAN 79 CASUAL DINING 64 COFFEE HOUSE 81 DESSERTS/BAKERY 81 ENTERTAINMENT DINING 67 EUROPEAN/BOSNIAN 77 EUROPEAN/GERMAN 77 EUROPEAN/IRISH 77 EUROPEAN/ITALIAN 77 EUROPEAN/SPANISH 78 FINE DINING 58 HOME STYLE/SOUTHERN 66 INDIAN 78 MEXICAN 79 MICROBREWERIES 73 MIDDLE EASTERN 78 PIZZA 67 SANDWICH/DELI 69 SEAFOOD 63 SOUTHWEST/TEX MEX 80 STEAKHOUSE 63 UPSCALE CASUAL 59 54 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

PAGE #/CUISINE STYLE

MAP #

#1 Asian Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 2 19th Green Pub & Grill 71 Bar & Grill 16 211 Clover Lane 58 Fine Dining 3 610 Magnolia 58 Fine Dining 1 A Little Peace Café 2 62 Cafés A Nice Restaurant 64 Casual Dining 14, 16 A Taste of China 73 Asian/Chinese 1 Al Watan 78 Middle Eastern 4 Amazing Grace Deli 69 Sandwich/Deli 2 American Pizza 67 Pizza 11 Amici´ 77 European/Italian 1 Angelina’s Café 77 European/Italian 5 Angilo’s Pizza 67 Pizza 13 Angio’s Restaurant 67 Pizza 4 Ann’s by the River 67 Cafeterias 16 Annie Café 76 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Annie’s Pizza 67 Pizza 1, 13 Another Place 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Anytimes 64 Casual Dining 7 Applebee’s 64 Casual Dining [9] Appleby’s Café & Wine Bar 62 Cafés 16 Arirang 76 Asian/Korean 9 Arni’s Pizza 67 Pizza 14 Aroma Café 62 Cafés 14 Artemisia 59 Upscale Casual 1 Asian BBQ & Cuisine 76 Asian/Korean 16 Asian Buffet 73 Asian/Chinese 4, 14, 15 Asiatique 59 Upscale Casual 2 Atomic Saucer 81 Coffee House 1 Atrium Café 60 Bistro/Contemporary 5 August Moon 73 Asian/Chinese 2 Austin’s 59 Upscale Casual 7 Avalon 59 Upscale Casual 2 Azalea 59 Upscale Casual 7 Babby’s Steakhouse 63 Steakhouse 16 Backyard Burger 69 Sandwich/Deli 6 Bahama Breeze 79 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Bake’s Barbeque 70 Barbecue 13 The Bakery 81 Desserts/Bakery 4 Bamboo House 73 Asian/Chinese 12 Bank Shot Billiards 69 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbara Lee’s Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 2 Basa Modern Vietnamese 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Baxter Station 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bazos Mexican Grill 79 Mexican 3 Bean Street Café 81 Coffee House 14 Bearno’s Pizza 67 Pizza [12] Beef O’Brady’s 71 Bar & Grill 8, 9, 12, 14 Behar Café 77 European/Bosnian 12 Bendoya Sushi Bar 75 Asian/Japanese 1 Bentley’s 64 Casual Dining 1 Bentley’s Sports Grille 71 Bar & Grill 1 Big Dave’s Outpost 71 Bar & Grill 2 Big Hopp’s 64 Casual Dining 1 Big Mama’s Soul Kitchen 66 Home Style/Southern 1 Big Willie’s Pizza Pub 67 Pizza 6 Bistro 301 60 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro New Albany 60 Bistro/Contemporary 14 Blimpie’s Subs 69 Sandwich/Deli 2, 4 BLU Mediterranean Grille 59 Upscale Casual 1 Blue Dog Bakery 62 Cafés 2 Blue Mountain Wine Bar 62 Cafés 1 Blue Mule Sports Café 71 Bar & Grill 6 Bluegrass Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 4 Bluegrass Brewing Co. 73 Microbreweries 1, 3 Bluegrass Café 62 Cafés 4 Bonefish Grill 63 Seafood 5 Bootleg Barbecue Co. 70 Barbecue 11, 12 Bosna-Mak 77 European/Bosnian 4 Bourbon Bros. BBQ 70 Barbecue 2 Bourbons Bistro 60 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Brandon’s Bar-B-Que 70 Barbecue 6, 8, 9 Bravo!

59 Upscale Casual 3 Breadworks 81 Desserts/Bakery 2, 7, 9 Brendans 77 European/Irish 3 Bristol Bar & Grille 59 Upscale Casual 1, 2, 5, 10 Brix Wine Bar 61 Bistro/Contemporary 8 Brownie’s Grille & Bar 71 Bar & Grill 5 Browning’s Brewery 73 Microbreweries 1 Brownsboro Eatery 61 Bistro/Contemporary 7 Bruno’s Pizzeria 67 Pizza 14 Buca Di Beppo 77 European/Italian 6 Buck’s 58 Fine Dining 1 Buckhead Mountain Grill 64 Casual Dining 4, 12, 16 Buffalo Crossing 67 Entertainment Dining 6

RESTAURANT

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Buffalo Madison Coffee Co. 81 Buffalo Wild Wings 71 Bulldog Café 62 The Butterfly Garden Café 62 C.A.P.P.P.’s Deli 69 Café 360 78 The Café at the Antique Mall 62 Café Emilie 59 Café Fraiche 62 Café J 62 Café Kilimanjaro 73 Café Lou Lou 61 Café Magnolia 64 Café Metro 56 Café Mimosa 76 Caffe Classico 81 Cajun Kitchen 79 California Pizza Kitchen 64 Camille’s Sidewalk Café 62 Cancun Mexican Restaurant 79 Captain’s Quarters 64 Cardinal Hall of Fame Café 64 Carly Rae’s 64 Carolina Shrimp & Seafood 63 Carolyn’s 66 Carrabba’s Italian Grille 77 Caviar Japanese Rest.

59 Champions Grill 64 Champion’s Sports Rest. 71 Chatter’s Bar & Grill 71 Check’s Café 66 Cheddar Box Café 62 Cheddar’s Casual Café 64 Cheesecake Factory 59 Chez Seneba African 73 Chicago Grill & Subs 69 Chicago Gyro 69 Chick Inn 64 The Chicken House 66 Chicken King 66 Chili’s 64 China 1 73 China Buffet 73 China Garden 73 China Inn 73 China King 74 China Sea Buffet 74 Chinatown 74 Chinese Chef 74 Chinese Express 74 Chinese Restaurant 74 Chong Garden 74 Chopsticks 74 Chopsticks House 74 Chung King 74 Ciano’s 69 Cici’s 67 City Café 62 City Wok 74 Clark Boy Bar-B-Que 70 Clarksville Seafood 63 Cleo’s Coffee 81 Clifton’s Pizza 67 Club Grotto 59 Coach Lamp 59 Coco’s Bakery 81 Coffee Crossing 81 Coffee Pot Café 81 Coffee Treat Café 81 Come Back Inn 77 Corner Café 59 Cottage Café 66 Cottage Inn 66 Crave Café & Catering 62 Cravings a la Carte 67 Cribstone Pub 71 Crystal Chinese 74 Culver’s 64 Cumberland Brews 73 Cunningham’s 64 Cutting Board Café 61 Cyclers Café 62 Danish Express 69 Danny Mac’s Pasta & Pizza 68 Day’s Espresso 81 DBL Shotz 81 De La Torre’s 78 Del Frisco’s 63 Delta Restaurant 72 Derby Café 62 Derby Dinner Playhouse 67 Desserts By Helen 81 Devino’s 69 Diamante 61 Diamond Pub & Billiards 72

MAP #

Coffee House 1, 14, 15 Bar & Grill 2,3, 6, 8, 9, 13 Cafés 12 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 7 Cafés 3 African 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 1 Fine Dining 2 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Coffee House 2 Cajun/Creole 12 Casual Dining 5 Cafés 6 Mexican 4 Casual Dining 10 Casual Dining 12 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 3 Home Style/Southern 13 European/Italian 5 Upscale Casual 1 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 1 Bar & Grill 6 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 3, 9 Casual Dining 8, 15 Upscale Casual 3 African 12 Sandwich/Deli 16 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 10 Home Style/Southern 14 Home Style/Southern 1 Casual Dining 4, 5, 12 Asian/Chinese 3 Asian/Chinese 15 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6, 14 Asian/Chinese 9 Asian/Chinese 3, 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli 9 Pizza 4, 14 Cafés 1, 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Barbecue 13 Seafood 15 Coffee House 14 Pizza 2 Upscale Casual 2 Upscale Casual 1 Desserts/Bakery 12 Coffee House 9, 14 Coffee House 1 Coffee House 1 European/Italian 1, 16 Upscale Casual 5 Home Style/Southern 9 Home Style/Southern 1 Cafés 2 Cafeterias 1 Bar & Grill 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Casual Dining 6 Microbreweries 2 Casual Dining 1, 7 Cafés 8 Cafés 2 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 2 Coffee House 2 Coffee House 16 European/Spanish 2 Steakhouse 3 Bar & Grill 1 Cafés 12 Entertainment Dining 16 Desserts/Bakery 2, 10 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Bar & Grill 3

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RESTAURANT

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Diefenbach Café 62 Dinner Is Done 66 Dino’s Down to Lunch 69 Ditto’s Grill 61 Dizzy Whizz Drive-In 69 Djuli 77 Dmitri’s Deli 69 D’Nalley’s Restaurant 66 Domino’s Pizza 68 Don Pablos 79 Dooley’s Bagels 69 Double Dragon 74 Double Dragon II 74 Double Dragon 8 74 Double Dragon 9 74 Double Dragon Buffet 74 Dragon Garden 74 Duke’s Grille & Bar 64 Dutch’s Tavern 72 Dynasty Buffet 74 Eastern House 74 Edoya Japanese Restaurant 75 Eggroll Machine 74 El Caporal 79 El Mundo 79 El Nopal 79 El Nopalito 79 El Paso 79 El Rey Mexican 79 El Rodeo Mexican 80 El Tarasco 80 El Toro Resaurante Mexicano 80 Emperor of China 74 Empress of China 74 The English Grill 58 Equus 58 Erika’s German Rest.

77 Ermin’s Bakery & Café 62 Ernesto’s 80 Euro Market 69 Expressions of You 81 Famous Dave’s Bar-B-Que 70 Fast Break Pizza 68 Fat Jimmy’s 68 Fat Tony’s Pizza 68 Federal Hill 62 Feed Bag Deli 69 Ferd Grisanti 77 Fiesta Time Mexican Grill 80 Fifth Quarter 63 Finley’s BBQ 70 Fire Fresh Bar B Q 71 First Wok 74 The Fish House 63 The Fishery 63 The Fishery Station 63 Flabby’s Schnitzelburg 72 The Flagship 58 Flanigans Ale House 72 Fork in the Road 66 Fountain Room 64 Four King’s Café 72 Fox & Hound 72 Frank’s Steak House 64 Frascelli’s N.Y. Deli 69 Fresco Southwest Grill & Pizza 68 Frolio’s Pizza 68 Frontier Diner 66 Fuji Japanese Steakhouse 75 Garden Room Café 62 Gasthaus 77 Gavi’s Restaurant 64 Genny’s Diner 66 Germantown Café 62 Gerstle’s Place 72 Golden Buddha 74 Golden Corral 66 Golden Palace 74 Golden Wall 74 Goose Creek Diner 66 Granville Inn 72 Grape Leaf 78 Grapevine Pantry 62 Great American Grill 72 Great Wall 74 Great Wok 74 Groove Café 62 Gumbo A Go-Go 79 Habaneros 80 Hall’s Cafeteria 67 Happy Dragon 74 Hard Rock Café 61 Harper’s Restaurant 61 Havana Rumba 79 Hazelwood Restaurant 66

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MAP #

Cafés 15 Home Style/Southern 6 Sandwich/Deli 1 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sandwich/Deli 1 European/Bosnian 12 Sandwich/Deli 1 Home Style/Southern 1 Pizza [20] Mexican 15 Sandwich/Deli 3, 5, 7, 9, 14 Asian/Chinese 2,3 Asian/Chinese 5, 8, 11, 12 Asian/Chinese 1 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 5 Asian/Chinese 2 Bar & Grill 7 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Japanese 9 Asian/Chinese 2 Mexican 4,6,12,15 Mexican 2 Mexican 6, 8, 12 Mexican 2, 4, 11 Mexican 16 Mexican 4 Mexican 13 Mexican 3, 5, 7, 12 Mexican 6 Asian/Chinese 7 Asian/Chinese 4 Fine Dining 1 Fine Dining 3 European/German 6 Cafés 1, 10, 14 Mexican 3, 5, 6, 12 Sandwich/Deli 8 Coffee House 7 Barbecue 6, 15 Pizza 8 Pizza 1, 2, 5, 9 Pizza 6 Cafés 14 Sandwich/Deli 3 European/Italian 6 Mexican 8 Steakhouse 12 Barbecue 1 Barbecue 1, 4, 5, 9, 11, 13 Asian/Chinese 13 Seafood 2 Seafood 3 Seafood 11 Bar & Grill 1 Fine Dining 1 Bar & Grill 2 Home Style/Southern 13 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill 4 Bar & Grill 3 Steakhouse 16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Pizza 1 Pizza 12 Home Style/Southern 13 Asian/Japanese 8 Cafés 1 European/German 7 Casual Dining 1 Home Style/Southern 2 Cafés 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Chinese 12 Home Style/Southern 4,12,15 Asian/Chinese 13 Asian/Chinese 12 Home Style/Southern 8 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 2 Cafés 9 Bar & Grill 12 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Cafés 15 Cajun/Creole 2, 6 Mexican 15 Cafeterias 2 Asian/Chinese 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Bistro/Contemporary 5 Caribbean/Cuban 3 Home Style/Southern 13

Charming Ambiance

Over 80 Wines By The Glass — RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED —

Exceptional Cuisine

1765 Mellwood Ave. at the corner of Brownsboro Rd.

Open Nightly at 5:00 pm

897-0070

THEATER MENU 5:00 pm – 6:30 pm

www.landnwinebarandbistro.com www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 55

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Heine Brothers Coffee 81 Heitzman Bakery & Deli 81 Herman’s Delicatessen 69 Highland Coffee Co. 81 Hill Street Fish Fry 63 Hippo Wings 64 Hitching Post Inn 72 Hobknobb Roasting Co. 81 Hometown Buffet 66 Hometown Pizza 68 Honeybaked Café 69 Hong Kong Chinese 74 Hong Kong Fast Food 74 Hoops Grill and Sports Bar 72 Hooters 64 Hot Dog Heaven 69 Howl at the Moon 67 Ichiban Samurai 75 IHOP 65 Indi’s Restaurant 66 India Palace 78 Intermezzo American Café 59 The Irish Rover 77 Iroquois Pizza 68 Islamorada Fish Co. 63 J. Alexander’s 60 J. Graham’s Café 62 J. Harrods 60 Jack Fry’s 60 Jack’s Lounge 61 Jade Garden Buffet 74 Jade Palace 74 Jake’s & Mr. G’s 72 Jane’s Cafeteria 67 Jarfi’s Bistro 60 Jasmine 74 Jason’s Deli 69 Java Brewing Co. 81 Jay’s Cafeteria 67 Jazz Factory 61 Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse 64 Jennica’s Café & Wine Bar 62 Jersey Mike’s Subs 69 Jersey’s Café 72 Jerusalem Mediterranean Café 78 Jessie’s Restaurant 66 Jimbo’s BBQ 71 Jimmy and Richie’s 72 Jimmy John’s Sub Shop 69 Jockamo’s Pizza Pub 68 Joe Huber Restaurant 67 Joe Muggs 81 Joe’s Crab Shack 63 Joe’s O.K. Bayou 79 Joe’s Older Than Dirt 65 John E’s 60 JoJo’s Fish Market 63 Jolly Rogers 65 JP’s Pub & Grub 72 Juanita’s Burger Boy 70 Jucy’s Smokehouse 71 Juke Box 65 Jumbo Buffet 74 Just Fresh Bakery & Café 70 Kaelin’s Restaurant 65 Kansai Japanese Rest.

75 Karem’s Grill & Pub 65 Karma Café 65 Kashmir Indian 78 Kayrouz Café 62 Kern’s Korner 65 Kimi’s Asian Bistro 75 King Benny’s Pizza 68 King Buffet 74 King Wok 74 Kings Fast Food 66 King’s Fried Chicken 66 Kingfish 63 Kobe Japanese Steak 75 Koreana II 76 KT’s 60 KY Taco 80 L&N Wine Bar and Bistro 61 La Bamba 80 La Bodega 78 La Gallo Rosso Bistro 1325 77 La Herradura 80 La Monarca 80 La Perla del Pacifico 80 La Rosita Taqueria 80 La Rouge 61 La Tapatia 80 Le Relais 58 Lee’s Korean 76 Legend’s 65

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Coffee House 2, 3 Desserts/Bakery 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 Coffee House 1, 2 Seafood 1 Casual Dining 1 Bar & Grill 11 Coffee House 14 Home Style/South. 6,8,13,15 Pizza 7, 9, 13 Sandwich/Deli 3, 11, 15 Asian/Chinese 14 Asian/Chinese 12 Bar & Grill 8, 12 Casual Dining 3,12,13,15,16 Sandwich/Deli 7 Entertainment Dining 1 Asian/Japanese 6 Casual Dining 15 Home Style/Southern 1,3,12 Indian 5 Upscale Casual 1 European/Irish 2, 7 Pizza 13 Seafood 15 Upscale Casual 3 Cafés 1 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 2 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Asian/Chinese 2 Asian/Chinese 7 Bar & Grill 5 Cafeterias 4 Upscale Casual 1 Asian/Chinese 9 Sandwich/Deli 5 Coffee House 1, 2, 9, 10 Cafeterias 1 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Steakhouse 1 Cafés 1 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 8 Bar & Grill 15 Middle Eastern 1 Home Style/Southern 13 Barbecue 12 Bar & Grill 5 Sandwich/Deli 3 Pizza 1 Entertainment Dining 14 Coffee House 3, 8 Seafood 1 Cajun/Creole 6, 14 Casual Dining 5 Upscale Casual 4 Seafood 4 Casual Dining 16 Bar & Grill 11 Sandwich/Deli 1 Barbecue 5 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Chinese 6 Sandwich/Deli 2 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 15 Casual Dining 8 Casual Dining 2 Indian 2 Cafés 3 Casual Dining 2 Asian/Japanese 6 Pizza 12 Asian/Chinese 6 Asian/Chinese 3 Home Style/Southern 13 Home Style/Southern 1 Seafood 6, 7, 16 Asian/Japanese 16 Asian/Korean 12 Upscale Casual 2 Mexican 11 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 European/Italian 2 Mexican 15 Mexican 11 Mexican 8 Mexican 14 Bistro/Contemporary 1 Mexican 2 Fine Dining 4 Asian/Korean 12 Casual Dining 14

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Lemongrass Café Lentini’s Liang’s Café The Lighthouse Lilly’s Limestone Ling Ling Little Caesar’s Pizza Little Chef Liu’s Garden Logan’s Roadhouse Lolitas Tacos Inc. Longhorn Steakhouse Longino’s Lonnie’s Taste Chicago Los Aztecas Los Chubascos Los Indios Mexicano Lotsa Pasta Louisville Pizza Co. Lucky House Buffet Lucky Strike Lanes / Felt Luigi’s Lunch Today Lynn’s Paradise Café Ma Zerellas MacVitte’s Mai’s Thai Restaurant Maido Essential Japanese Main Eatery Main Menu Maker’s Mark Lounge Manchu Wok Manhattan Grill Marcus’ Ribs By The Slab Mark’s Feed Store Market on Market Marrakech Martini Italian Bistro Master’s International Masterson’s Max & Erma’s Mayan Café Mazzoni’s Oyster Café McAlister’s Deli Melillo’s The Melting Pot Meridian Café Mexican Fiesta Mexico Tipico Michael Murphy’s Mike Linnig’s Mimi’s Café Mitchell’s Fish Market Moe’s Southwest Grill Molly Malone’s The Monkey Wrench Morris Deli & Catering Morton’s of Chicago Mr. Gattis Mr. Lou’s Mr. Z’s Kitchen My Favorite Muffin My Old KY Dinner Train Nancy’s Bagel Grounds Napa River Grill Neil’s Place Nero’s New China New Direction Bar & Grill New World Buffet Nios Nord’s Brown Bag Deli North End Café O’Charley’s O’Dolly’s O’Shea’s Irish Pub The Oakroom Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza Old Louisville Coffee House Old Spaghetti Factory Old Stone Inn Ole Hickory Pit BBQ The Olive Garden Olive’s on Fourth Ollie’s Trolley Omar’s Gyro On the Border On The River Dining Onion Rest.Tea House Orders Up Café & Deli Oriental House Oriental Star Osaka Sushi Bar Otto’s Café

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76 Asian/Vietnamese 2, 3, 9 77 European/Italian 2 74 Asian/Chinese 8 72 Bar & Grill 16 58 Fine Dining 2 60 Fine Dining 5 74 Asian/Chinese 5 68 Pizza 6, 8, 11, 12 70 Sandwich/Deli 14 74 Asian/Chinese 9 64 Steakhouse 3, 13, 15 80 Mexican 12 64 Steakhouse 6, 8, 15 66 Home Style/Southern 13 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 80 Mexican 1, 6, 7, 10 80 Mexican 6 80 Mexican 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 68 Pizza 6 74 Asian/Chinese 4 67 Entertainment Dining 1 77 European/Italian 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 16 65 Casual Dining 2 68 Pizza 15 72 Bar & Grill 14 76 Asian/Thai 16 75 Asian/Japanese 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 65 Casual Dining 14 60 Upscale Casual 1 74 Asian/Chinese 5 65 Casual Dining 1 71 Barbecue 1 71 Barbecue 2, 9, 13, 15 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 78 Middle Eastern 2 77 European/Italian 8 81 Coffee House 11 65 Casual Dining 1 65 Casual Dining 6, 8 80 Mexican 1 63 Seafood 4 70 Sandwich/Deli 5, 6, 7, 11, 15 77 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 62 Cafés 3 80 Mexican 11 80 Mexican 9, 13 72 Bar & Grill 1 63 Seafood 13 65 Casual Dining 5 63 Seafood 8 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 3, 6, 9, 15 77 European/Irish 2 65 Casual Dining 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 64 Steakhouse 1 68 Pizza 1, 4, 5, 12, 13 66 Home Style/Southern 13 62 Cafés 1 81 Desserts/Bakery 4, 5 67 Entertainment Dining 12 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 60 Upscale Casual 3 65 Casual Dining 14 60 Upscale Casual 14 75 Asian/Chinese 9 72 Bar & Grill 8 75 Asian/Chinese 8 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 62 Cafés 2 65 Casual Dining 3,6,8,12,13,15 66 Home Style/Southern 13 77 European/Irish 2 58 Fine Dining 1 65 Casual Dining 6 81 Coffee House 1 77 European/Italian 1 60 Upscale Casual 6 71 Barbecue 11 77 European/Italian 6, 8, 15 66 Home Style/Southern 1 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 78 Middle Eastern 2 80 Southwest/Tex Mex 8 65 Casual Dining 7 75 Asian/Chinese 14 70 Sandwich/Deli 9 75 Asian/Chinese 3 75 Asian/Chinese 12 75 Asian/Japanese 2 65 Casual Dining 1

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Outback Steakhouse 64 P. Nuts Sports Bar & Grill 72 P. F. Chang’s China Bistro 60 Pa Pa Murphy’s Pizza 68 Palapa Mexican Restaurant 80 Palermo Viejo 78 Panda Chinese 75 Panera Bread Co. 70 Papa Johns Pizza 68 Park Place Restaurant 58 Passtime Fish House 63 Pat’s Steak House 64 The Patron 60 Paul’s Fruit Market 70 Penn Station 70 Pepper Shaker Bar-B-Q 71 Perkfection 81 Pesto’s Italian 78 Pho Binh Minh 76 Piccadilly Cafeteria 67 Picnicaters BBQ 71 Pig and a Peppermint 62 Pig City BBQ 71 Pink Door Noodles & Tea Lounge 76 Pit Stop Bar-B-Que 71 Pita Delights 78 Pizza Box 68 Pizza By The Guy 68 Pizza Hut 68 Pizza King 68 Pizza Place 68 Pizzeria Uno 68 Plehn’s Bakery 81 Ponderosa Steakhouse 64 Porcini 78 Portico 58 Prado’s Pizza 68 Primo 78 Proof On Main 58 Prospect Fish Market 63 Pub Louisville 65 Puerto Vallarta 80 Qdoba Mexican Grill 80 Queen of Sheba 73 Queue Café 63 Quick Wok 75 Quizno’s Subs 70 Rafferty’s of Louisville 65 Ramsi’s Café 61 Ranch House 65 Raw Sushi Lounge 75 Ray Parrella’s 78 Red Robin Gourmet Burgers 65 Red Star Tavern 60 Rich O’s Public House 73 Rick’s Ferrari Grille 60 Rockwall Bistro 60 Rocky’s Italian Grill 78 Romano’s Macaroni Grill 78 Rosticeria Luna 80 Royal Garden 75 Rubbie’s Bar-B-Que 71 Ruben’s Mexican Restaurant 80 Ruby Tuesday 65 The Rudyard Kipling 65 Rumors Raw Oyster Bar 63 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 64 Ryan’s Steakhouse 64 Saddle Ridge Saloon 72 Saffron’s 79 Saffron’s Buffet 79 Safier Mediterranean Deli 79 Saint’s 72 Sakura Blue 75 Sala Thai 76 Salsarita’s Fresh Cantina 80 Sam’s Food & Spirits 65 Santa Fe Grill 80 Sapporo Japanese Grill 76 Sari Sari Exotic Filipino Cuisine 75 Savino’s Italian Food 78 Schlotzsky’s Deli 70 Scotty’s Ribs 71 Sesame Chinese 75 Seviche A Latin Restaurant 58 Shady Lane Café 70 Shah’s Mongolian Grill 75 Shalimar Indian 78 Shane’s 65 Shanghai Restaurant 75 Shenanigan’s Irish Grille 77 Shiraz Mediterranean Grill 79 Shogun 76 Shoney’s 65 Sichuan Garden 75

MAP #

Steakhouse 3, 8, 11, 12, 15 Bar & Grill 6 Upscale Casual 5 Pizza 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15 Mexican 2 European/Spanish 2 Asian/Chinese 10 Sandwich/Deli3, 6, 8, 12, 15 Pizza [30] Fine Dining 1 Seafood 6 Steakhouse 2 Upscale Casual 3 Sandwich/Deli 3, 4, 7, 9 Sandwich/Deli [14] Barbecue 12 Coffee House 16 European/Italian 1 Asian/Vietnamese 12 Cafeterias 5, 6 Barbecue 1 Cafés 10 Barbecue 9 Asian/Korean 2 Barbecue 1 Middle Eastern 1 Pizza 8 Pizza 5 Pizza [15] Pizza 14, 16 Pizza 4 Pizza 11 Desserts/Bakery 3 Steakhouse 7 European/Italian 2 Fine Dining 14 Pizza 9 European/Italian 1 Fine Dining 1 Seafood 10 Casual Dining 1 Mexican 14, 16 Mexican 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 15 African 4 Cafés 6 Asian/Chinese 1 Sandwich/Deli [17] Casual Dining 3, 8 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Casual Dining 14 Asian/Japanese 1 European/Italian 2 Casual Dining 8 Upscale Casual 1 Microbreweries 14 Upscale Casual 3 Upscale Casual 14 European/Italian 8, 16 European/Italian 5 Mexican 12 Asian/Chinese 11, 12, 13 Barbecue 12 Mexican 15 Casual Dining 3, 6, 15 Casual Dining 1 Seafood 9 Steakhouse 3 Steakhouse 11, 12, 13, 15 Bar & Grill 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Middle Eastern 1 Bar & Grill 3 Asian/Japanese 3 Asian/Thai 6 Southwest/Tex Mex 3 Casual Dining 14 Mexican 12 Asian/Japanese 2, 9 Asian/Filipino 2 European/Italian 13 Sandwich/Deli 8, 9 Barbecue 9 Asian/Chinese 5 Fine Dining 2 Sandwich/Deli 7 Asian/Chinese 6 Indian 6 Casual Dining 16 Asian/Chinese 1 European/Irish 2 Coffee House 2 Asian/Japanese 6, 8 Casual Dining 2, 6, 12 Asian/Chinese 6

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Simply Thai 76 Asian/Thai 3 Sister Bean’s 81 Coffee House 13 Skyline Chili 65 Casual Dining 1, 2, 3, 6, 13 Smokey Bones BBQ 72 Barbecue 6 Snappy Tomato 68 Pizza [7] Sol Aztecas 80 Mexican 2 Soupy’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 4, 6 , 8 , 1 3 South Side Inn 67 Cafeterias 14 Spaghetti Shop 78 European/Italian 11, 14 Spinelli’s Pizzeria 68 Pizza 2 Sports Page Grill 72 Bar & Grill 6 Sportstime Pizza 68 Pizza 14 Stan’s Fish Sandwich 63 Seafood 3 Star Cruises 67 Entertainment Dining 16 Starbucks Coffee 81 Coffee House [27] Starving Artist Café 70 Sandwich/Deli 5 Steak N Shake 65 Casual Dining 4,6,8,12,13,15 Steinert’s Grill & Pub 72 Bar & Grill 14 Stevens & Stevens 70 Sandwich/Deli 2 Steve-O’s Italian Kitchen 78 European/Italian 7 Stoney River 64 Steakhouse 8 Stratto’s 78 European/Italian 15 Strawberry Patch Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 9 Stumler Rest. & Orchard 67 Entertainment Dining 14 Sub Station II 70 Sandwich/Deli 12 Sully’s Saloon 73 Bar & Grill 1 Sunergos Coffee & Roastery 81 Coffee House 1 Sweet ‘N’ Savory Café 63 Cafés 2 Sweet Peas Southern 61 Bistro/Contemporary 2 Sweet Surrender 81 Desserts/Bakery 2 The Sweet Tooth 81 Desserts/Bakery 3 Tacqueria La Mexicana 80 Mexican 12 Tailgaters Sports Bar 73 Bar & Grill 12 Taste of Jamaica 79 Carribian/Cuban 2 Tequila Mexican Rest.

80 Mexican 12 Texas Roadhouse 64 Steakhouse 2, 12, 13, 15 TGI Friday’s 65 Casual Dining 1, 6, 7 Thai Café 76 Asian/Thai 7 Thai Siam 76 Asian/Thai 4 Thai Smile 5 76 Asian/Thai 12 Thai Taste 76 Asian/Thai 2 The Back Door 73 Bar & Grill 2 The Bodega 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Theater Square Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Third and Main Café 63 Cafés 1 Third Avenue Café 63 Cafés 1 Thyme Café 63 Cafés 1 Toast on Market 65 Casual Dining 1 Tokyo Japanese 76 Asian/Japanese 7 Toll Bridge Inn 66 Home Style/Southern 14 Tologono 61 Bistro/Contemporary 3 Tommy Lancaster 65 Casual Dining 14 Tony Boombozz 68 Pizza 2, 3, 8 Tony Impellizzeri’s Italian 69 Pizza 5 Tony Roma’s 71 Barbecue 5 Treet’s Bakery Café 63 Cafés 16 Trellis Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 1 Tucker’s 65 Casual Dining 14 Tumbleweed 81 Southwest/Tex Mex 1,2,4, 6,8,12,13,14,15,16 Twice-Told Café 65 Casual Dining 7 Twig & Leaf Restaurant 65 Casual Dining 2 Uptown Café 60 Upscale Casual 2 Vic’s Café 73 Bar & Grill 1 Vietnam Kitchen 76 Asian/Vietnamese 12 The Villa Buffet 65 Casual Dining 14 Vince Staten’s BBQ 71 Barbecue 10 Vincenzo’s 59 Fine Dining 1 Vito’s Pizzeria 69 Pizza 12 Volare 78 European/Italian 2 W.W. Cousin’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Wagner’s Pharmacy 66 Home Style/Southern 12 Wall Street Deli 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Webb’s Market 67 Home Style/Southern 1 Westport General Store 65 Casual Dining 7 Whitney’s Diner 63 Cafés 11 Wicks Pizza 69 Pizza 2, 8, 9, 13 Wild Oats Market 70 Sandwich/Deli 3 Windy City Pizzeria 69 Pizza 1 The Wing Zone 66 Casual Dining 12 Wings N Things 73 Bar & Grill 8 Wings To Go 69 Pizza 14 Winston’s 59 Fine Dining 4 Wok Express 75 Asian/Chinese 1 Wonton Express 75 Asian/Chinese 4 Woodford Reserve Grille 73 Bar & Grill 12 Yaching’s East West Cuisine 60 Upscale Casual 1 Yang Kee Noodle 75 Asian/Chinese 5 Yen Ching 75 Asian/Chinese 6 You-Carryout-A 75 Asian/Chinese 14, 15, 16 Zap’s 70 Sandwich/Deli 1 Za’s Pizza 69 Pizza 2 ZaZoo’s 73 Bar & Grill 3 Zen Garden 76 Asian/Vietnamese 2 Z’s Oyster Bar 59 Fine Dining 5 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 57

GUIDE KEY

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$ = Average Entrée under $8 $$ = Average Entrée $9–$14 $$$ = Average Entrée $15–$20 $$$$ = Average Entrée $21 & up

2 11 CL OVER LANE RES TAURANT 2 11 Clo ver Ln., 896-9570. Owner and manager Andy Smith continues to burnish the upscale atmosphere and creative cuisine of this s tylish spot in St. Matthews. It c onsistently r anks among the city’ s top tables. $$$$ p f 610 MAGNOLIA 610 Magnolia A ve., 636-0783. Chef Edward L ee’s dis tinctive, eclectic tak e on cr eative international cookery places his personal signatur e on e very dish at this elegantly c omfortable Old Louisville restaurant. For more than a quart er of a century it has r emained one of the city’ s fines t places to dine. $$$$ p f BUCK’S 42 5 W . Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-52 84. E clectic Victorian with t ongue-slightly-in-cheek, pleasant and not o verstated, this fine dining r oom in the Mayflower Apartments c ombines a w elcoming attitude with high-quality f are and atmospher e that’s frankly stunning. $$$ p e CAFÉ METRO 1700 Bar dstown Rd., 458-4830 . A local tr adition that helped es tablish Bar dstown Road as one of the city’ s “r estaurant r ows” a generation ago , Café Metr o r emains an upscale landmark and c ontinues t o please Metr o’s lo yal fans. $$$ p ENGLISH GRILL 335 W . Br oadway (T he Br own Hotel), 583-1234. This elegant oak-paneled dining room is the same do wntown landmark that our

58 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

RED = Advertiser

p = Full Bar f = Outdoor Dining e = Live Music

grandparents enjo yed. Ne wly arriv ed Chef Laurent Géroli brings a back ground in Caribbean and Florida r esort c ooking t o L ouisville as he assumes the post long held by Joe Castro. $$$$ p EQUUS 122 Sears Ave., 897-9721. Veteran Chef Dean Corbett has quietly built one of the city’ s mos t honored r estaurants in this simple whit e-brick building in St. Matthe ws, Quietly elegant surroundings, splendid servic e and firs t-rate “progressive American cuisine” have won applause from publications like Southern Living. $$$$ p THE FLAGSHIP 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5200. $$$$ e LE RELAIS 2 817 T aylorsville Rd. (Bo wman Field), 451-9020. Another longstanding contender for top rank in L ouisville’s r estaurant r ace, this art dec o spot makes s tylish use of a his toric 19 2 0s airport building to present elegant modern French cuisine from Chef Daniel Stage. $$$$ p f e LILLY’S 1147 Bar dstown Rd., 451-044 7. As a r epeat invitee t o Manhattan’ s James Bear d House , Chef Kathy Cary shar es her K entucky-accented cooking skills with the r est of the nation. Lilly’ s c ombines sophisticated s tyle and Cary’ s cr eative c ookery t o keep this landmark r estaurant one of L ouisville’s dining favorites. $$$$ p e LIMESTONE 10001 Forest Green Blvd., 426-7477. To succeed in the r estaurant busines s, k eep doing what y ou do bes t. Chefs Jim Gerhar dt and Michael Cunha ha ve followed this simple f ormula with c onsiderable suc cess at Limes tone, tr ansporting the c oncept that br ought them

ALL RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED IN LOUISVILLE (unless noted otherwise) All phone numbers are local calls. When out of the area, use area code 502 for all listings except Indiana, use 812. international culinary k udos at the Seelbach’ s Oakroom with good eff ect in these modern quarters in the East End. $$$ p THE OAKROOM 500 S. Fourth St. (Seelbach Hotel), 585-32 00. Ex ecutive Chef T odd Richar ds has been cutting a swath, with recent appearances at James Bear d House and Ir on Chef America.

Richards and right-hand-man Chef Duane Nutt er have made the onc e-staid old Oakr oom one of the city’s most exciting places to dine. $$$$ p PARK PLACE RESTAURANT 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-0172. With Anoosh Shariat as e xecutive chef this signatur e r estaurant in L ouisville Slugger Field c ombines culinary cr eativity and comfort in an upscale v enue that ’s sec ond t o none. $$$$ p f e PORTICO Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. High-end luxury and s tyle bring a tas te of Las V egas t o Metr o L ouisville in this pric ey, white-tablecloth eatery located on the gr ounds of Caesars Indiana. You don’t have to be a high r oller to enjoy its luxury fare and service. $$$$ p PROOF ON MAIN 702 W. Main St., 2 17 -6360. T his stylish spot in the posh 2 1C Museum Hot el at Seventh & Main has earned a firm plac e in the t op tier of local eat eries. Chef Michael P aley pr eside over a modern American bill of f are with dis tinct Tuscan influences. $$$ p SEVICHE A LA TIN RES TAURANT 1538 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8560. Chef Anthon y Lamas has been winning national pr aise f or his cr eative c ookery,

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frequently appearing in national f ood media and making a r egular tr ek t o James Bear d House in NYC. Se viche, as the name implies, specializ es in the Latino seaf ood dish “ cooked” in tart citrus juices. $$$$ p f VINCENZO’S 150 S. Fifth St., 580- 1350. Known f or its suave professional service, high-end Northern Italian fare and many trademark dishes finished at tableside, V incenzo’s c ontinues t o hold its o wn against growing downtown competition. $$$$ p WINSTON’S RES TAURANT 3101 Bar dstown Rd., (Sullivan University Campus), 456-0980. Culinary arts students at Sullivan University staff this finedining r estaurant on the campus, under the guiding hand of Chef John Cas tro. Several of the city’s top chefs got their training here. Open Fri. Sun. Only. Reservations suggested. $$$$ p Z’S O YSTER BAR & S TEAKHOUSE 101 Whittingt on Pkwy., 429-8000. This exciting spot brings a level of fine dining to the suburbs that makes it stand out in the chain-rich en virons outside the W atterson.

Splendid steaks, extraordinary seafood, fine service and clubby ambience give Z’s the tools to dominate in the steakhouse competition. $$$$ p

ARTEMISIA 62 0 E. Mark et St., 583-4 177. As the bustling arts sc ene in this eas t-of-downtown blossoms, Art emisia ev olves with it. A f avorite dinner venue in a gallery setting, Art emisia offers fare t o please both v egetarians and omniv ores, plus an attr active alfr esco dining option in its enclosed courtyard. $$$ p f e ASIATIQUE 1767 Bardstown Rd., 451-2749. Chef Peng Looi has w on diners’ r aves and man y culinary awards during Asiatique’ s long local t enure. His innovative Asian-fusion cuisine has w on him invitations to New York City’s James Bear d house and many local accolades. $$$ p f

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AUSTIN’S 4950 US 42, 423-1990. Big, crowded and bistro-style, with heavy emphasis on the bar, this suburban w atering hole taps the same v ein as the national fr anchise boo ze ’n’ beef genr e, and does so w ell, off ering satisfying dining at a f air price. $$ p AVALON 1314 Bardstown Rd., 454-5336. This stylish spot on Bar dstown R oad off ers a fr esh and creative bill of f are that pr esents American and international cuisine with a dis tinct Southern accent. Extra points for the popular outdoor patio that’s open for a good part of the y ear. $$$ p f AZALEA 3612 Br ownsboro Rd., 895-54 93. Another of the city’ s longtime f avorites, Azalea delights with cr eative American and fusion-s tyle f are whether y ou dine in or enjo y the open air of its shady, brick-walled patio. $$$ p f BLU IT ALIAN MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 62 7-5045. BL U offers upscale Italian Medit erranean cuisine in striking surr oundings highlight ed b y Me xican limestone and Italian marble . F or those seeking a relaxing libation and a quick er snack, the Bar at BLU offers a more casual alternative. $$$ p BRAVO! 2 06 Bullitt Ln. ( Oxmoor C enter), 32 6-04 91.

Management describes the Ohio-based Br avo! chain as “ a fun, whit e-tablecloth casual eat ery … positioned betw een the fine-dining and casual chains.” A R oman-ruin setting houses abundant Italian-American style fare. We particularly enjo yed appetizers and first-rate grilled meats. $$ p f BRISTOL BAR & GRILLE 132 1 Bardstown Rd., 4561702, 300 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 426-0627, 614 W. Main St., 582 - 1995, 6051 T imber Ridge Dr ., 2 9 2 2585, 2035 S. Third St., 634-2723. The Bristol has been a s tar on L ouisville’s bis tro sc ene sinc e it helped kick off the Bar dstown R oad r estaurant renaissance some 25 years ago. Old standards like the gr een-chile w on t ons and the Bris tol Bur ger

are always reliable, and the wine pr exceptional. $$ p f

ogram is

CAFÉ EMILIE 3939 Shelb yville Rd., 7 19-9717. T his French-accented Eas t End eat ery, locat ed in the Burdorf’s Furnitur e s tore in St. Matthews, is w ell worth a visit. Off ering casual f are at lunch and more elegant dining in the e vening. $$ p f CAVIAR J APANESE RES TAURANT 416 W .

Muhammad Ali Blv d., 62 5- 3090. Samm y Sa, the genial host of the Fuji restaurants in the East End, adds a do wntown pr esence with this s tylish Japanese eatery next door to the Seelbach Hotel.

Eat at the sushi bar , choose a c omfortable table or r eserve the tr aditional Japanese-s tyle Tatami Room for your group. $$$ p CHEESECAKE FACTORY 5000 Shelbyville Rd., 8973933. “Cheesecak e” is its name , and this glitzy shopping-mall eatery offers a wide variety of rich, calorific choic es t o eat in or tak e out. It ’s mor e than just cheesecake, though, with a wide-ranging menu of California, Southwestern and Pacific Rim fare plus full bar servic e. $$ p CLUB GROTTO 2116 Bardstown Rd., 459-5 275. Club Grotto’s stylish and r omantically dim en virons add up to a c omfortable, familiar Highlands spot that ’s worth making a special effort to remember. $$$ p COACH LAMP RESTAURANT 751 Vine St., 583-9165.

This urban neighborhood tavern serves “pub grub” for lunch, but C oach Lamp turns int o a serious dining room Wednesday through Saturday evenings with dishes fr om Chef Je rome Pope that r ange from down-home favorites to pastas. $$$ f CORNER CAFÉ 9307 New Lagrange Rd., 426-8119 .

There’s nothing fancy or overly elegant about this suburban neighborhood old favorite, but the term “eclectic” fits it well. $$ p INTERMEZZO AMERICAN CAFÉ & CABARET 316 W. Main St., 584- 12 65. T he elegant r estaurant

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space in A ctor’s T heatre of L ouisville’s his toric building features casual American bistro fare in an attractive dining room, plus nightly entertainment in a cabaret style. $$$ p e J. ALEXANDER’S RESTAURANT 102 Oxmoor Court, 339-2 2 06. T his c omfortably upscale v enue, a Nashville-based chain, f eatures “ contemporary American” f are with a br oad menu that r anges from burgers and sandwiches to such upscale eats as grilled tuna or a New York strip steak. $$$ p f J. HARROD’S 7507 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8-4555. J .

Harrod’s is discr eetly tas teful and pleasantly comfortable. The food is competitive in both quality and value. It’s an appealing, upscale blend of bis tro fare and old-fashioned country cooking. $$$ p JACK FR Y’S 1007 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -92 44. If y ou want t o give visiting friends a one-shot sample of Louisville’s urban dining s tyle, ther e’s no bett er destination than Jack Fry’ s. T his popular spot is always pack ed. It sa ves jus t a whiff of the r affish aspect of its 1960s-er a predecessor, a local saloon, but upgr ades it with cr eative American f are in a bistro setting. $$$$ p e JARFI’S BIS TRO 501 W . Main St., 589-5060 . T he affable Jeff Jarfi is the epon ymous hos t of this sharp, stylish venue in the K entucky Center for the Arts. Eclectic cuisine—including sushi!—plus popular lunch and pr e-theater buff ets ar e attracting happy crowds. $$$ p

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MAKER’S MARK BOURBON HOUSE & LOUNGE Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-9009 . Under a lic ensing agreement with the management of Fourth Street Live, K entucky’s Mak er’s Mark Dis tillery lends its name and its signatur e r ed-wax image t o this stylish r estaurant and lounge in the booming downtown entertainment complex. A magis terial bar f eatures mor e than 60 Bourbons, and the menu offers traditional Kentucky fare. $$$ p f MELTING POT 2045 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3125.

This Florida-based chain brings back pleasant memories of fondue parties of the ’70s. If you can melt it and dip things in it, the Melting Pot probably has it on the menu. $$$ p NAPA RIVER GRILL 3938 Dupont Circle, 893-0141.

This s tylish St. Matthe ws venue spans Calif ornia and the Pacific Rim, earning its reputation as one of the city’ s leading r estaurants on the basis of Innovative wine-country cuisine, excellent service and a fine California-focused wine collection. $$$ pf NERO’S Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888766-2648. Joining Portic o as the sec ond high-end, fine-dining r estaurant at Caesar ’s Indiana, Ner o’s complements Portic o’s all- American s teak-andseafood theme with a br oader int ernational menu that ranges from Tuscan fettuccini to Memphis BBQ pork ribs. $$$ p

JOHN E’S 3708 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1111. T his old Louisville tradition earns a warm recommendation.

From its c ozy setting in a his toric Buechel home to its do wn-home servic e t o its good Americanstyle fare at reasonable prices. $$$$ p e

OLD S TONE INN 6905 Shelbyville Rd., Simpson ville, KY, (502) 722-8200. Under the management of Paul Crump, f ormerly of Por cini, this his toric s tone building (east of L ouisville in Simpson ville) carries on the r eputation that has made the c omfortably nostalgic r estaurant popular f or mor e than a generation. $$$ p f

KT’S 2 300 L exington Rd., 458-8888. It ’s har d t o argue with suc cess, and K T’s has earned its popularity by providing good American-style bar and bistro chow for a price that’s fair. $$ p f

THE P ATRON 3400 Fr ankfort A ve., 896- 1661.

Viewed from the perspective of an e vening meal, the P atron off ers some of the bes t c ooking in town. Chef Amber McC ool off ers a dinner menu

that changes fr equently, based on what ’s available and perhaps the chef’s whim. It’s not just adventurous but civilized. $$ p P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BIS TRO 912 0 Shelb yville Rd., 32 7-7707. T his Ariz ona-based, Chinese themed restaurant off ers a loud, happ y sc ene with Chinese-style dishes. T o its cr edit, e verything is prepared well and service is consistently fine. $$ p RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 (see listing under Asian/Japanese) RED S TAR T AVERN Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-5656.

Billed as “a hip, contemporary version of the classic American ta vern,” this chain oper ation in the rehabilitated former Galleria features steaks, chops and seafood in an atmospher e that’s upscale and clubby, with an e xtensive bar as a k ey part of the action. $$$ p f RICK’S FERRARI GRILLE 3930 Chenoweth Ln., 8930106. Popular local restaurateur Rick Dissell is the amiable host at this St. Matthe ws restaurant that bears his name , and w e don’t mean “F errari.”

Excellent libations and upscale American f are make it a popular des tination. $$ p f e ROCKWALL BISTRO 3426 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN., 948-1705. This stylish spot takes full advantage of an old r ock-quarry location in sc enic Flo yds Knobs t o off er an atmospheric eat ery, with a creative menu that f eatures a light L ouisiana accent, and an int eresting, affordable wine list. It’s well worth the trip acr oss the Ohio f or one of the area’s most enjoyable dining experiences. $$ p f UPTOWN CAFÉ 162 4 Bar dstown Rd., 458-42 12 .

Across the s treet and a s tep downscale from its partner, Café Metro, the Uptown Café (now a nonsmoking venue except f or the bar) off ers similar fare with a bit more of a bistro feel for quite a few bucks less. $$ p f YACHING’S EA ST WES T CUISINE 105 S. F ourth St., 585-4005. Yaching’s promises “an eclectic menu of contemporary Asian fusion cuisine.” It’s an attractive mix of Eas t and W est, sufficient t o give jus t about everyone something t o enjo y, r egardless of which compass point attracts your taste buds. $$$ p

ATRIUM CAFÉ 9940 C orporate Campus Dr .

(Embassy Suit es), 42 6-9191. An eclectic bis tro atmosphere in the heart of the hotel. Specials run from their popular cr ab cakes and arr ay of pas ta dishes to a Reuben sandwich or fruit pie . $$ p BAXTER S TATION BAR & GRILL 12 01 P ayne St., 584-1635. T his c ozy spot looks a lot lik ea neighborhood saloon, but the eclectic menu and unique atmospher e tak e it a not ch upscale , and the weatherized patio is comfortable almost yearround. Take particular not e of an impr essive beer list to go with your meal. $$ p f BISTRO 301 301 W. Mark et St., 584-833 7. R eborn last y ear fr om the old Dek e’s, Bis tro 301 has moved upscale , no w off ering quality “Contemporary American cuisine.” $$$ p f BISTRO NEW ALBANY 148 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, (812 ) 94 9-52 2 7. T his r ecent and w elcome addition to downtown New Albany brings casual upscale gourmet dining t o the city’ s old do wntown, with high quality local meats, pr oduce and microbrewery beers. Extra credit, in season, for its inviting French Quarter-style patio. $$ f e BLUEGRASS BISTRO 3819 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 111.

Chefs Sc ott Schamel, f ormerly of the Br own Hotel, and Anthon y L orie bring a ne w, gourmetstyle menu t o this attr active spot in the Derb y City Antique Mall in Buechel (formerly Derby City Café). Open for lunch daily except Sunday. $ BOURBONS BIS TRO 2 2 55 Fr ankfort A ve., 8948838. Bourbon, K entucky’s tr aditional nectar, 60 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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owns a plac e of honor in L ouisville eateries and watering holes that sho wcase its pleasur es.

Bourbons Bis tro c ombines a fine bar and comfortably upscale-casual restaurant featuring what mus t be the w orld’s mos t c omprehensive Bourbon list. The bill of fare is well-matched with the excellence of its libations. $$$ p f BRIX WINE BAR 12418 La Gr ange Rd., 2 43-112 0. T he use of an e xceptionally obscur e wine t erm (it ’s pronounced “bricks” and refers to the sugar content of ripe gr apes at harv est) hints that the pr oprietors of this ne w wine bar kno w their f ood. Int eresting wines and a short bis tro-style menu mak e it a welcome suburban addition. $ BROWNSBORO EATERY 7511 Hwy 329, 241-8689. $ CAFÉ LOU LOU 1800 Frankfort Ave., 893-7776. Bright and bold and arts y, this Clift on neighborhood restaurant and pub off ers Chef Cla y W allace’s affordable edibles fr om wr aps and calz ones t o handmade pizzas among the best in town. $$ f THE CUTTING BOARD 2929 Goose Cr eek Rd., 4239950. Having built a loyal clientele with well-made and cr eative casual f are in its original s torefront location, owners Guntars and Ilena Rusmanis no w build on that suc cess with their autumn 2 006 move int o s tylish lar ger quart ers nearb y and an expanded menu. $$ p DIAMANTE 2 2 80 Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1705. T his lovable spot mak es adaptiv e use of a 19 2 0s gasoline s tation c onverted int o a c ozy eat ery, where Chef Mik e Driskell off ers an eclectic bill of fare and tr endy libations. Open v ery lat e, it ’s a haven for night owls. $$ f DITTO’S GRILL 1114 Bardstown Rd., 581-912 9 . W ith fresh and gener ous portions, I lea ve s tuffed and happy e very time I visit this s tylish y et casual Highlands f avorite. Chef /Co-owner Domonic Serratore—a pioneer of the local dining sc ene—

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serves up fr esh and gener ous portions fr om a menu that offers an internationally eclectic bill of fare that r anges all o ver the map . Fr om K ansas City ribs and Ne w England cr ab cak es t o T hai chicken wings or Chinese burrit os. $$ p HARD ROCK CAFÉ Fourth Str eet Liv e, 568-2 2 0 2 .

Louisville’s Fourth Street Live opened with a bang amid hammering guitars and happy throngs as the city gained its first branch of this popular shrine t o rock with its giant neon guitar to show you the way.

The music sc ene is the dr aw, but y ou’ll ha ve no complaints about Har d Rock’s standard American cuisine. $$ p f e

L&N WINE BAR AND BIS TRO 1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070. If y ou’re enthusias tic about good wine, you’re going t o be excited about L &N. The fruit of the vine takes center stage in a vast, fairly priced wine list and imposing Cruvinet dispenser, with over 100 wines a vailable by the glass. Comfortable exposed-brick atmosphere and excellent bistro fare add to the draw. $$ p f LA ROUGE 2 52 E. Mark et St., 568-5555. Rick Longino of L ongino’s has launched a ne w bistrostyle dining room in the f ormer Oscar Brown’s, in the booming epic enter of the Eas t Mark et artsand-entertainment district. $$$ p

HARPER’S RESTAURANT 871 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 5-2 900. Harper ’s dr aws a happ y cr owd of regulars with a lar ge bar and big menu that off ers a wide r ange of American-s tyle f are, with management that takes quality seriously. Gourmet pizzas and fine libations are a specialty. $$ p f

NIOS 917 Baxt er A ve., 456- 7080. Specializing in a selection of “small plates,” a concept akin to tapas or the similar Latino bocaditos, Nios hits a culinary home run in this his toric building that housed Jupiter Grill and later @mosphere. $$$ p f

JACK’S L OUNGE 12 2 Sears A ve., 89 7-902 6. A sophisticated, elegant bar as sociated with the Equus restaurant next door, Jack’s offers a short but e xcellent menu f eaturing appetiz ers and light bit es, along with a drinks lis t be yond reproach. $ p

RAMSI’S CAFÉ ON THE W ORLD 12 93 Bar dstown Rd., 451-0700. Small, funk y and fun, this f avorite spot of the Highlands’ Gener ation X cr owd attracts f oodies of all ages with its friendly setting, r easonable pric es and w ell-prepared international cuisine. $$ f

JAZZ F ACTORY 815 W . Mark et St. ( Glassworks), 992 -32 42 . L ouisville’s r estored Glas sworks building mak es a natur al home f or this edgy , stylish venue for serious, live jazz. Chef Jeff Jarfi’s eclectic and inno vative f are off ers an e xtra incentive for a jazz-filled evening. $$ p e

SWEET PEA S SOUTHERN 2 350 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-9091. Chris topher Seckman pr esides o ver this c omfortable Cr escent Hill spot that f eatures traditional Southern f are with a t ouch of cr eative innovation. $ p f

KIMIS A SIAN BIS TRO 1915 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 36-1915. R estaurateur John Chung is amiable host at this ne w Eas t End v enture, an upscale Asian bistro that blends tr aditional Japanese fare with Chinese and K orean fla vors, including such Pacific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bas s with sweet mango and t orched salmon in par chment paper. $$ p

TOLOGONO 3702 L exington Rd., 899-2 005. In an intriguing twist on takeout food, Tologono’s firstrate chefs will mak e you a gourmet-s tyle meal to take out ( or e ven ha ve deliv ered, within a reasonable radius of its St. Matthe ws venue) and enjoy in the c omfort of home . I’v e f ound the dishes fully competitive with local bistro fare, and more than competitive in price. $$

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A LITTLE PEA CE CAFÉ 7301. $ f e

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1860 Mellw ood Ave., 2 38-

APPLEBY’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 2 01 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 83- 3663. Fine dining in a casual atmospher e. F are r anges fr om a wardwinning chili and the “Big St eve” burger at lunch to fine dining at night. T he recently added W ine Cellar offers the same fine fare and classy wine in a more casual atmosphere. $ p e f AROMA CAFÉ Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. Gr ab a bit e bef ore hitting the casino . Sandwiches, salads, sides, c old beverages and coffee will fuel you for a night of entertainment. $ BLUE DOG BAKER Y AND CAFÉ 2 868 Fr ankfort Ave., 899-9800 . T his bak ery with its $50 ,000 Spanish wood-fired oven makes artisanal bread as good as you’ll find in the US, and competitive with the best in Eur ope. Its c omfortable, upscale café offers a short selection of tas ty dishes made t o show off the fine breads. $$ f BLUE MOUNT AIN C OFFEEHOUSE & WINE BAR 400 E. Main St., 582 - 32 2 0. Hos t Nicholas Arno adds a Jamaican ac cent, and Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is the specialty, at this sleek and sophisticated new spot across Main from Slugger Field. A c offee house b y da y, it adds a wine-bar vibe in the evenings. $$ f BLUEGRASS CAFÉ 32 55 Bar dstown Rd. ( Quality Inn), 454-0451. This casual family dining spot in a motel c omplex on Bar dstown off ers tr aditional favorites that r ange from the Hot Br own to fried chicken. A menu of fr eshly made soups, salads, appetizers and desserts serves the light diner. $ p BULLDOG CAFÉ 10619 W. Manslick Rd., 380-0600. $ f

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THE BUTTERFLY GARDEN CAFÉ 132 7 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4500. This tasteful little spot off ers teas and light er lunch f are in an attr active old-house setting. $ f THE CAFÉ A T THE L OUISVILLE ANTIQUE MALL 900 Goss Ave., 637-6869. One of the city’ s most attractive spots f or antique , this ca vernous old factory building off ers a similarly attr active plac e to catch lunch while you shop, offering a selection of competently made luncheon fare. $ CAFÉ FRAICHE 3642 Br ownsboro Rd., 894-89 2 9.

Cuisine from around the w orld is f eatured at this East End neighborhood café, f eaturing homemade soups, breads and a variety of entrées on a seasonally changing menu. $ CAFÉ J 3600 Dut chmans Ln. ( Jewish C ommunity Center), 459-0660. This authentic delicatessen in the Jewish Community Center offers fully k osher fare including homemade soups, salads and wideranging hot entrées. $ f CAMILLE’S SIDEWALK CAFÉ 2060 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-2005 $ f CHEDDAR BO X CAFÉ 12 12 1 Shelb yville Rd., 2 452622, 3909 Chenoweth Sq., 893-2324. Ladies who lunch oft en do so her e, lur ed b y an attr active selection of luncheon soups, salads and sandwiches .and desserts. $ f CITY CAFÉ 1907 S. F ourth St., 6 35-02 2 2 , 505 W .

Broadway, 589- 1797, 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 4595600, 500 S. Pr eston St., 85 2 -5739. Chef Jim Henry, a long-time s tar in the city’ s culinary firmament, brings his cooking skills and insistence on fresh, quality ingr edients to these simple , but excellent, spots for lunch. $ f CRAVE CAFÉ & CA TERING 2 2 50 Fr ankfort A ve., 896-1488. L ogos C offee House is gone , but its proprietor, Ellen Guilford, now joins with Shannon Foster of In Good T aste Cat ering t o off er casual

café f are in this c omfortable old fr ame house in Clifton. $ f CYCLERS CAFÉ 2295 Lexington Rd., 451-5152. Is it a bicycle shop or a r estaurant? Well, it ’s both. T his informal spot will sell y ou a firs t-rate sandwich, soup or salad or a tire for your bike—or the whole darn bike! $ f DERBY CAFÉ 704 C entral A ve. (K entucky Derb y Museum), 634-0858. Lunch serv ed year-round in the dining ar ea adjac ent t o the Derb y Museum with such regional favorites as meaty Burgoo, and the Hot Brown. $ f DIEFENBACH CAFÉ 12 8 S. Ne w Alban y St., Sellersburg IN, 246-0686. $$ p e ERMIN’S BAKER Y & CAFÉ 12 01 S. Firs t St., 6 356960, 723 S. F ourth St., 58 7-9390, 454 S. F ourth Ave., 585-5120, 9550 U.S. Hwy 42, 228-7210, 211 E. Main St., New Albany, IN, 941-8674. These popular bakeries attr act cr owds looking f or an enjo yable soup and sandwich lunch highlight ed by Frenchstyle breads and pastries. $ FEDERAL HILL 310 Pearl St., Ne w Albany IN, 9486646. $ f GARDEN ROOM CAFÉ 911 S. Br ook St., 62 5- 1900.

Historic Male High School, no w T he Spectrum Building, houses Gumb y’s G arden R oom Café, a casual American-s tyle r estaurant oper ated b y longtime local caterer Phyllis “Gumby” Cornwell. $ f GERMANTOWN CAFÉ 1053 Gos s A ve., 6 37-9412 .

One of the man y old-f ashioned, simple and welcoming bars serving pub grub in L ouisville’s old Germantown neighborhood is as good a spot as any for a hot burger and a cold beer. $ p f e GRAPEVINE PANTRY & GIFT SHOP 11418 Old Main St., Middlet own, K Y, 2 45-1569. T he Middlet own Historic Dis trict is booming with s torefronts, restaurants and a laid back glimpse of the pas t.

The Gr apevine P antry off ers homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, cakes and pies. $ GROOVE CAFÉ 1882 Blackis ton Mill Rd., Clarks ville, IN, 949-3105. $ e J. GRAHAM’S CAFÉ & BAR 335 W. Broadway (The Brown Hot el), 583- 12 34. T he Br own’s casual café offers an alternative to the upscale English Grill. $ p JENICCA’S CAFÉ & WINE BAR 636 E. Mark et St., 587-872 0. A w orthy edition t o the booming arts district east of downtown, Jenicca’s is sophisticated and stylish, a fine c offee shop and casual wine bar with light fare and an upscale art-gallery vibe . $ f KAYROUZ CAFÉ 12 7 W iltshire Ave., 896-2 6 31. T hose who w ere saddened b y the los s of St. Matthe ws landmark J.P. Kayrouz will be delighted to learn that another K ayrouz gener ation is back in busines s, starting small in the tiny spot that once housed the original Tony Boombo zz. T hey’ve made good use of the spac e, off ering man y of the f amily’s old favorites in a stylishly renovated setting. $ f MERIDIAN CAFÉ 112 Meridian A ve., 897-9703. This little lunch spot oc cupies a c ozy old house in St. Matthews. Servic e is c ompetent and polit e, the place is sparkling clean, and the luncheon-s tyle fare ranges from good to excellent. $ MR. Z’S KITCHEN 869 S. Third St., 584-8504. It’s run by a friendly immigr ant f amily fr om Eas tern Europe, but the f ood is all- American at Mr . Z’ s Kitchen. It offers an appetizing option for a hearty diner-style meal. $ NORTH END CAFÉ 1722 Frankfort Ave., 896-8770.

This atmospheric Clift on spot in an artfully redesigned old shotgun house is one of the city’s most popular spots f or upscale casual dining.

The eclectic menu off ers div erse tapas and interesting entrées. It ’s an appealing, aff ordable place to dine. $ f PIG AND A PEPPERMINT 9521 US Hwy 42, 292-1245. $ f

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QUEUE CAFÉ 220 W. Main St. (LG&E Building), 583-0273. $ SWEET ‘N’ S AVORY CAFÉ 1574 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6566. Hearty brunch f are with a v egetarian accent mak es S weet ‘n’ Sa vory a popular destination for the Bardstown Road bunch. $ THIRD AND MAIN CAFÉ Building) 587-6171. $ f

2 2 0 W . Main St. (L

G&E

THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ 1164 South Third St., 585-2233.

One of m y f avorite plac es f or a casual meal, this exceptionally pleasant neighborhood eat ery is attracting lo yal cr owds with e xcellent f are and a cozy setting that brings you back for more. $$ p f e THYME CAFÉ 711 S. T hird St., 58 7-0400. This spicy eclectic café serv es up big tas te with special tuna, ham and chick en entrées and sandwiches. Fr esh basil tomato soup with the BLT on grilled sourdough is a fast-rising favorite in the neighborhood. $ TREET’S BAKER Y CAFÉ 133 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN., 945-5440 . T eresa Clancy , whose husband, Da ve Clancy , pr esides as chef of the excellent Bistro New Albany restaurant, goes into friendly c ompetition with her mat e with this casual bakery just across the street. $ f WHITNEY’S DINER 5616 Bardstown Rd., 239-0919. $ f

BONEFISH GRILL 657 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 12 4666. T his fr anchise c oncept fr om the Floridabased Outback St eakhouse chain off ers impressive seafood in a c omfortable setting. Add Bonefish t o y our short lis t of suburban chain eateries that do the job right. $$$ p CAROLINA SHRIMP & SEAFOOD 392 2 W estport Rd., 894-8947. In an Eas t End neighborhood rich with seaf ood eat eries, Car olina off ers a tas ty option within w alking dis tance of do wntown St. Matthews. T his spartan little joint f eatures shellfish and c od, much of it healthfully s teamed, not fried, in an aff ordable family setting. $ CLARKSVILLE SEAFOOD 916 Eas tern Blv d., Clarksville, IN, 2 83-8588. As the only surviving descendant of Louisville’s old Cape Codder chain, Clarksville Seafood upholds a long and honorable tradition. The menu is simple—fried fish and fried seafood, serv ed on paper tr ays—but it is consistently excellent and affordable. $ THE FISH HOUSE 1310 W inter A ve., 568-2 99 3.

Louisville is as o verflowing as a w ell-stocked lake with fish-sandwich houses, and The Fish House is right up there with the best. Crisp breading laced with black pepper is the signatur e of Green River fried fish from Western Kentucky. $ f THE FISHER Y 362 4 L exington Rd., 895- 1188. T he original fried-fish eatery in a neighborhood that ’s now awash with them, T he Fishery remains justly popular f or its quick, sizzling hot and aff ordable fish and seafood meals. $ f THE FISHERY STATION 5627 Outer Loop, 968-8363.

Family owned and f amily style dining with a wide net of seafood dinners and appetiz ers. Lunch and dinner menus also include such delicacies as fr og legs, shrimp and alligator. $ p HILL STREET FISH FRY 111 E. Hill St., 636-3474. This Old Louisville tradition is small and eas y to miss, but it ’s worth the effort to get by. Its oversize fried whitefish sandwich is the flagship dish, but a v aried menu is also available. $ f ISLAMORADA FISH CO. 951 E. Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-5300. $$ p JOE’S CRAB SHA CK 131 Riv er Rd., 568- 1171. T he setting is bright, noisy and fun. But the food is the bottom line , and I’m pleased t o r eport that the seafood at Joe’s uniformly fresh and fine. $$ p f

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JOJO’S FISH MARKET 2 902 Bar dstown Rd., 4517100. This small Highlands shop , vacant since the closing of the short-lived Highland Fish Market, is frying fish again, with dec or and s tyle so little changed that they’re still using the same sign out front. Fried fish sandwiches, oversized fish tacos and other seafood fare are first-rate and fairly priced. $ KINGFISH RES TAURANT 302 1 Upper Riv er Rd., 895-0544, 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr., 240-0700, 601 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 284-3474. Fried fish in a f amily dining setting has made this local chain a popular favorite for many years. Two of its properties—upper Riv er R oad and Riv erside Drive—boast river views. $$ p f MAZZONI’S O YSTER CAFÉ 2 804 Taylorsville Rd., 451-4436. A his tory that dat es t o 1884 mak es Mazzoni’s one of the city’ s longes t-running restaurant acts. It mo ved fr om do wntown t o the suburbs a gener ation ago , but k ept its his toric serving bar and its urban f eeling, with pub grub , cold beer and the famous rolled oyster. $ MIKE LINNIG’S 9308 Cane Run Rd., 9 37-1235. Mike Linnig’s has been dishing up tas ty fried fish and seafood at f amily pric es sinc e 19 2 5 and r emains immensely popular. There’s indoor seating and a bar, but the picnic grove with its giant shade trees makes Linnig’s a special place in season. $ f MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET 4031 Summit Plaza Dr ., 412 -1818. T he dec or of this upscale , C olumbusbased chain e vokes the f eeling of a lar ge fish market, with an open kit chen that offers views of chefs at w ork. Quality seaf ood and servic e has made this a popular des tination. $$$ p f PASSTIME FISH HOUSE 10801 Locust Rd., 267-4633. $fe PROSPECT FISH MARKET 952 1A US 42 , Pr ospect, 2 2 8-6962 . If y ou’re on the eas tern edge of the metropolitan ar ea, Pr ospect Fish Mark et off ers good, aff ordable fish in a pleasant shoppingcenter setting. $ RUMORS RESTAURANT & RAW BAR 12339 Shelbyville Rd., 2 45-0366. V isualize Hoot er’s without the scantily-clad waitresses, and you’ve drawn a bead on Rumor’s, the original L ouisville home of the buck etof-oysters and impressive raw bar. $$ p f STAN’S FISH S ANDWICH 372 3 L exington Rd., 8966600. T he fish is the thing at Stan’ s, wher e the owner is a perfectionist who won’t sell any but the freshest fish, perf ectly pr epared. I’v e ne ver had a better fish sandwich an ywhere. W atch f or daily specials that take advantage of fresh product. $ Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

Celebrating 58 years as Louisville’s hometown favorite for top quality seafood and much, much more.

BABBY’S STEAKHOUSE 108 S. Fourth St., Utica, IN., 2 88-2 411. T his independent-minded s teakhouse is one of the metr o ar ea’s bes t v alues f or e xpertly prepared steaks. They come in all the usual siz es and c onfigurations, but someone in the kit chen has definite opinions about seasoning and grilling.

The result is a distinctive approach that rewards a visit. $$ f DEL FRISC O’S 4107 Oechsli A ve., 89 7-7077. Onc e ranked among the city’ s t op s teakhouses, Del Frisco’s r emains s trong in its c ore c ompetency.

For deeply marbled, fork-tender prime steaks, it’s still hard to beat on quality points. $$$$ p DILLON’S STEAKHOUSE 2101 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy, 499-7106. Dillon’ s has a dis tinctly diff erent atmosphere fr om mor e pric ey s teakhouses, with its ski-lodge atmospher e in a his toric L ouisville home. It ranks among the most affordable quality steak dinners that the city has t o offer. $$ p FIFTH QUARTER STEAKHOUSE 1241 Durrett Ln., 3612363. The Fifth Quarter has that touch of class that

THREE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS: On the River: 3021 Upper River Road ■ 895-0544 (Just east of Zorn Ave @ I-71)

601 W. Riverside ■ 284-3474 (On the Jeffersonville riverfront across from Louisville)

Around Town: 1610 Kentucky Mills Dr. ■ 240-0700 (Blankenbaker @ 1-64)

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evokes family nostalgia and romantic interludes. An attentive staff serves the sirloin y our way. Some of the city’ s bes t iv ory mas ters ar e at the piano t o enhance the dining experience. $$$ p f e

first properties outside its Georgia home. It draws big cr owds with its memor able s teaks and trimmings, with e xtra points f or friendly servic e and a comfortable atmosphere. $$$ p

FRANK’S S TEAK HOUSE 52 0 W . Se venth St., Jeffersonville IN, 2 83- 3383. A longtime north-ofthe-river favorite, this neighborhood s teak house is kno wn f or c omfort and hearty meals without pomp or circumstance. $$ p

TEXAS ROADHOUSE Green Tree Mall, Clarksville, IN, 2 80-1103, 4406 Dixie Hw y. 448-0 705, 6460 Dutchman’s Pk wy., 89 7-5005, 332 2 Out er L oop, 962-7600. The spirit of the W est sets the theme for this popular s teak house . Salads, v egetables and br eads with hearty side dishes r ound out your meal options. This is family-style dining, with no tray sliding—service at your table. $$ p

JEFF RUB Y’S S TEAKHOUSE 32 5 W. Main St., 5840102. Cincinnati restaurateur Jeff Ruby, who owns five upscale eateries in the upriver city and one at Indiana’s Belt erra Casino , no w hos ts this glitzy Louisville pr operty, an upscale s teak house that bears his name . Fine beef is the main dr aw, with seafood and even sushi as a plus. $$$$ p e LOGAN’S ROADHOUSE 5055 Shelbyville Rd., 89 33884, 5 2 2 9 Dixie Hw y., 448-05 77, 9 70 Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN, 2 88-9 789. W ith mor e than 100 properties in 17 s tates, this Nash ville-based chain parlays peanut shells on the floor and s teaks on the table into a popular formula. $$ p LONE S TAR S TEAKHOUSE & S ALOON 340 Whittington Pkwy., 339-9495. Lone Star rises abo ve the median f or fr anchised chain es tablishments on the basis of popularity and s tyle and v ery friendly service, with dec ent grub amid T exas-style surroundings and country music. $$ p f LONGHORN S TEAKHOUSE 2 535 Hurs tbourne Ln., 671-5350, 9 700 V on Allmen Ct., 32 6- 7500, 12 10 Veterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN. 2 84-5800 .

Oversize steaks and a “big sky” western theme are the draw at this chain eatery, although most of its properties are east of the Mississippi. $$ p MORTON’S 62 6 W. Main St., 584-042 1. T he steaks are as good as it gets, the atmospher e is elegant without being s tuffy, and the servic e is outstanding. Mort on’s earns a solid thr ee s tars and r anks among the t op tier of L ouisville’s upscale dining choices. $$$$ p OUTBACK STEAK HOUSE 4621 Shelbyville Rd., 895432 9, 65 2 0 Signatur e Dr ., 964-8383, 94 98 Brownsboro Rd., 42 6-432 9 , 8101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 399, 142 0 P ark Plac e, Clarks ville, IN, 2 83432 9. The name sugges ts Australia, and so does the shtick at this popular national chain, but the food is pr etty much f amiliar American, and the fare goes be yond jus t s teak t o tak e in chick en, seafood and pasta. $$$ p PAT’S S TEAK HOUSE 2 437 Br ownsboro Rd., 8969234. A visit to Pat’s may not be exactly like a trip back to the ‘50s, but when I at e there last, I think I sa w Ozzie and Harriet. A local f avorite, its combination of quality beef and hospitality rank it among the best steak houses in town. Bring cash: No credit cards accepted. $$$$ p PONDEROSA S TEAKHOUSE 11470 S. Pr eston Hw y., 964-6117, 816 S. K Y 53, La Gr ange, K Y, 2 2 2 - 12 2 6.

Family-style dining with the r anch theme k ept alive with the open flame fr om the grills. An extensive buff et with hot and c old f oods, salads and desserts is also available. $ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAKHOUSE 6100 Dutchman’s Ln., 479-0026. The Robb Report magazine has declared Rolex the world’s best watch, Armani the best men’s suit, C ohiba the bes t cigar and Ruth’ s Chris the bes t r estaurant. It serv es an e xcellent steak in an atmosphere of elegance that will make you feel pampered, at a price to match. $$$$ p RYAN’S FAMILY S TEAKHOUSE 7405 Preston Hw y., 964-1748, 5338 Bardstown Rd., 491-1088, 4711 Dixie Hwy., 44 7-4781, 6 36 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8520. This popular North Carolina-based chain offers f amily dining with good v ariety: Its div erse and extensive buffet features over 150 items. $ STONEY RIVER LEGEND ARY STEAK 3900 Summit Plaza Dr ., 42 9-8944. St oney Riv er in the Springhurst shopping center is one of the chain’ s 64 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ) (see listing under Southwest/Tex Mex) Z’S OYSTER BAR & STEAKHOUSE (see listing under Fine Dining)

A NICE RESTAURANT 3105 Blackiston Mill Rd., New Albany IN, 945-4321, 2784 Meijer Dr., 280-9160. A Nice R estaurant, billed as “Ne w Alban y’s Finer Diner,” is, well, nice. This sunny corner shop in the Old Mill Shopping C enter specializes in br eakfast and lunch. T he fare is do wn-home and simple , at a price you can afford. $ ANYTIMES A T THE RAMAD A INN 1041 Z orn A ve., 897-5101. Serving dinners only , the spacious restaurant opens at 4 p .m. and begins serving appetizers, salads, entrées and des serts. A s teak dinner is billed as the specialty of the house . $$ p APPLEBEE’S (9 locations ) T his cheery national chain f eatures an eclectic as sortment of salads, steaks, ribs, poultry and pas ta as w ell as full bar service. It ’s as c onsistent as a c ookie cutt er, but competent execution makes it a good bargain for those whose tas tes run t o mainstream American cuisine. $$ p BENTLEY’S 12 0 W . Br oadway (Holida y Inn), 582 2 241. Enjoy a K entucky hot br own or the all- youcan-eat prime rib buff et on Saturday nights. Each day features a pasta dish, a hearty soup and salad bar, as well as favorites from the cutting board and grill. $$ p e BIG HOPP ’S 800 W. Market St., 589-6600 . A wide variety of family-style fare, from fettuccine alfredo to fried chick en, is dished up with friendly , welcoming servic e at this popular local spot, in the busy Glassworks district. $ p f BUCKHEAD MOUNT AIN GRILL 3008 Bar dstown Rd., 456-6680, 4112 Outer Loop, 966-5555, 7 07 W. Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville IN, 284-2919. Buckhead’s combination o f mountain lodge atmospher e and American-style f are mak e these popular destinations. T he lar ge menu f eatures do wnhome staples like meat loaf , pot pies, s teak, ribs, and lighter fare for warm weather dining. The view of Louisville’s skyline from the riv erfront location is not to be missed. $$ p f CAFÉ MA GNOLIA 140 N. F ourth St. ( Galt House ), 589-52 00. T he Galt House’ s quick and casual second-floor dining alt ernative, this spacious venue—formerly the River Grille, offers a range of fare for guests on the go, from bacon and eggs to a late-night burger and fries. $$$ p CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor C enter), 42 5-512 5. Calif ornia pizza became a tr end when f amous chefs ga ve this simple Italian f are a multi-ethnic spin with nontraditional Pacific Rim toppings. CPK successfully translates this trend for the mass market. $$ p f CAPTAIN’S QU ARTERS 5700 Captain’ s Quart ers Rd., 2 2 8- 1651. One of the city’ s mos t attr active eateries f or atmospher e, Captain’ s Quart ers matches the beautiful setting with quality bis trostyle f are that w on’t disappoint. Summer or winter, it’s a delightful place to dine. $$ p f e

CARDINAL HALL OF F AME CAFÉ 2745 Crittenden Dr., 635-8686. This oversize eatery at Gate 4 of the Kentucky Fair & Exposition Center celebrates U of L sports with a “walk of fame” loaded with awards, photos, game balls and lots mor e Car dinal memorabilia. What? Y ou w ant f ood t oo? Sur e!

Casual American dining features everything from a “Cardinal Burger” to steaks and prime rib. $$ p CARLY RAE’S 103 W . Oak St., 3 79-432 0. T his attractive Old L ouisville spot has housed a quick series of short-liv ed r estaurants including Chef ’s Table and L eander’s. No w Carly Rae’ s s tarts off strong with a diverse and appealing casual dining menu. $$ p f CHAMPIONS GRILL 505 Marriott Dr . (Holiday Inn), Clarksville, IN., 2 83-44 11. Kno wn b y locals f or its Saturday night buff et of Ne w Y ork s trip, ribe ye and prime rib . Salads, sandwiches, soups and a kid-friendly menu round out the selection. $$ p e CHEDDAR’S CA SUAL CAFÉ 10403 Westport Rd., 339-5400, 1385 V eteran’s Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 280-9660. This popular Dallas-based chain, drawing big, hungry crowds with its lar ge bar and f amiliar “casual to upscale American” fare. $ p CHICK INN 632 5 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 3646.

Louisville’s familiar Chick Inn moved into upgraded quarters after a fire several years ago, but regulars still call it the “new place.” The new place is just as comfy as the old (although non-smok ers beware), and the fried chicken is as good as it gets. $$ p f CHILI’S 421 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 425-6800, 3623 Bardstown Rd., 301-8888; 11600 Ant onia W ay, 301-8181. More than just a place to chow down on baby back ribs, this national chain has a wide selection including f ajitas, bur gers, sandwiches and veggies. $ p CULVER’S 4630 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 2 90-688 7.

When the tr ademark it em is called a “ButterBurger” and fr ozen cus tard t ops the dessert menu, you know you’re not in for diet fare.

Quality f ast f ood and friendly servic e mak e this chain a popular new East End arrival. $ f CUNNINGHAM’S 630 S. F ourth St., 58 7-052 6, 301 Upper Riv er Rd., 2 2 8- 362 5. Carrying on int o its third c entury in modern quart ers that captur e much of the nostalgia of its history, Cunningham’s vends fine fish sandwiches and pub grub in this downtown location and in a sec ond eat ery on Harrods Creek. $ f DUKE’S GRILLE & BAR 4413. $$ p f

4004 G ardiner P t., 7 53-

FOUNTAIN ROOM A T THE GAL T HOUSE 140 N. Fourth St., 589-5 2 00. T his c omfortable spac e features both buff et and menu dining. One pric e covers the fresh and hot buffet and salad bar. The menu oft en includes r egional and c ontemporary selections and daily chef specials. $ p GAVI’S RES TAURANT 2 2 2 S. Se venth St., 583-8183.

This f amily-owned eat ery has been ar ound f or decades. Standard casual American cuisine adds a few Rus sian-style specialties such as homemade borsht soup and beef Str oganoff. Daily lunch specials include lots of fresh vegetable dishes. $ HIPPO WINGS 502 E. W arnock St., 6 34-4477.

Proprietor Roy Gifford once played right guard for Middle Tennessee State University, but he’s a U of L fan now: His ne w spot v ends a fine as sortment of wings and other munchies, jus t right f or tailgating at nearby Papa John’s Stadium. $ HOOTERS 412 0 Dut chmans Ln., 895- 7100; 4 948 Dixie Hw y., 44 9-4194; 77 01 Pr eston Hw y., 9681606; 700 W. Riverside Dr., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 189485; 94 1 Eas t Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN 2 84-9464.

Hooter’s may draw crowds with its long-s tanding reputation as a party sc ene, but you’ll stay for the food, an appetizing selection of soups, salads, seafood and more. Extra points for the company’s regular involvement in community causes. $ p f e

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INTERNATIONAL HOUSE OF P ANCAKES 1220 Veterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN. 2 85- 172 2 . F ans of this cult classic say the Metro has been without a handy IHOP f or f ar t oo long. R elief is her e with this f amiliar fr anchise’s r ecent opening in Southern Indiana. $ JOE’S OLDER THAN DIRT 8131 New Lagrange Rd., 42 6-2 074. Going s trong aft er man y y ears in this Lyndon location, Joe’ s has gr adually grown from a little house t o a spr awling c omplex of indoor and out door tables with liv e music man y evenings. Excellent barbecue is a specialty, and so is ice-cold beer. $ p e JOLLY ROGERS 850 Main St., Charles town, IN, 2566366. $$ f JUKE BO X Highlander Point Shopping C Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-1435. $ e

enter,

KAELIN’S RES TAURANT 1801 Ne wburg Rd., 4511801. This Highlands tradition has been around for almost 7 0 y ears, and their cheek y claim t o ha ve invented the cheeseburger actually seems to have some basis in f act. A spacious patio and r ecent renovations keep it up to date. $ f KAREM’S GRILL & PUB 9424 Nort ons C ommons Blvd., 327-5646. $ p f KARMA CAFÉ 112 6 Bar dstown Rd., 58 7-0062 .

Karma Café s tays open lat e and off ers dinerstyle courses—with a few Middle Eastern dishes for ac cent—in a casually arts y and inf ormal setting. $ f KERN’S KORNER 2 600 Bar dstown Rd., 456-9 72 6.

This f amily-owned ta vern has been a popular neighborhood pit s top sinc e 19 78. K ern’s off ers freshly made ham, chick en salad sandwiches and burgers, as w ell as a menu of soups, chilis and appetizers. $ p LEGENDS A T CAES ARS Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he hot and c old short or ders ar e serv ed up with riv erboat hospitality, but in a Las Vegas atmosphere. A well stocked bar and a live stage welcome the best of regional and visiting national acts fr om Wednesday through Saturday nights. $$ p e LYNN’S PARADISE CAFÉ 984 Barret Ave., 583-3447.

One of the mos t popular places in town for brunch (and dinner t oo), Lynn’s Paradise Café lur es happy, hungry crowds with its hearty fare and funky decor.

Lynn’s sponsors the Stat e F air’s t ongue-in-cheek Ugliest Lamp C ontest, but ther e’s nothing ugly about the delicious and filling f ood. $$ p MAIN MENU 3306 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN., 9486501. $$ MANHATTAN GRILL 200 S. 7th St., 561-0024. $ MASTERSON’S 1830 S. Third St., 636-2511. A fine, family L ouisville tr adition, this f amiliar T udor structure near the U of L campus is the s tate’s largest full-servic e r estaurant and the city’ s largest cat erer. Serving a lunch buff et Mon.-Fri., 10am-2pm only. Sunday Jazz Brunch. $ e MAX & ERMA ’S 2 901 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 939662 , 39 2 1 Summit Plaza Dr ., 4 12 -52 2 9. Max & Erma’s, a national chain that started in Columbus, Ohio’s German Village in 1972, has grown to nearly 100 pr operties with a s teady f ormula of friendly service and casual-dining f are that r anges fr om specialty bur gers, soups and salads t o mor e weighty entrées. $$ p f MIMI’S CAFÉ 615 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 6-6588.

This Calif ornia chain, a subsidiary of Bob E vans, goes urban and upscale wher e f armer Bob is folksy and c ountry. This new East End location is drawing crowds, building its r eputation on those familiar with the chain from other places. $$ THE MONKEY WRENCH 1025 Barret Ave., 582-2433.

A popular spot in the urban neighborhood wher e the Highlands meet Germant own, T he Monk ey

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Wrench off ers c omfort f ood with a s tylish spin, accompanied by good music, a r elaxed ambience and exceptionally welcoming service. $ p f NEIL’S PLACE 7611 IN 311, Sellersbur g, IN, 2 46-5456.

Best known for the specially seasoned fried chicken.

Neil’s also mak es excellent pastas, steaks, seafood, and salads. Homemade soups are created daily and coffee and desserts are always fresh. $$ p O’CHARLEY’S (6 locations ) O’Charle y’s, Inc. c ould serve well as the pictur e in the dictionary ne xt to “American casual dining. ” T he Nash ville-based chain operates 2 06 pr operties in 16 s tates in the Southeast and Midwest, serving a straightforward steak-and-seafood menu with the mott o “Mainstream with an attitude.” $$ p OLD CHICA GO P ASTA & PIZ ZA 9010 T aylorsville Rd., 301- 7700. T his gr owing chain specializ es in both thick Chicago-s tyle and thin tr aditional pizza, plus an imposing lis t of 110 beers fr om around the world. $$ p f ON THE RIVER DINING 1902 Victory Ln., 228-4359.

Restaurateur-hosts Cherri and Rick Br own off er old-fashioned do wn-home c ooking on this welcoming bar ge-based eat ery on the banks of the Ohio in Oldham C ounty. $ p f OTTO’S CAFÉ 500 S. F ourth St. (Seelbach Hilt on Hotel), 585-3201. Southern cooking with gourmet flair makes Otto’s an intriguing alt ernative to the Seelbach’s more upscale Oakroom. Check out the Southern Br eakfast Buff et and the Ex ecutive Express Lunch Buffet. $ PUB L OUISVILLE Fourth Str eet Liv e 56 9-7782 .

Owned b y Cincinnati’ s T he T avern R estaurant Group, T he P ub f eatures “nouv eau pub cuisine” ranging from shepherd’s pie and fish and chips to more Continental dishes lik e fried calamari and a seared ahi tuna entrée. $$ p f RAFFERTY’S OF L OUISVILLE 988 Br eckenridge Ln., 897-3900. 3601 Springhurs t Blvd., 412-9000.

This full-service, casual dining establishment has a hearty menu. Specialties lik e R ed Alfr edo P asta showcase the gourmet offerings along with some of the lar gest and mos t cr eative salad combinations in town. $$ p RANCH HOUSE 2611 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 944-9199. The menu and the retro 1950s decor hark back t o the original Bob C olgazier’s restaurants that Baby Boomers remember fondly from days gone by. $ e RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS 9870 Von Allmen Ct., 339-8616. The Robin has landed in the Brownsboro Crossings shopping center in the far East End. The highly r egarded Seattle-based chain off ers “gourmet bur gers” and trimmings. Despit e a full bar, it r eportedly attr acts hor des of happ y youngsters. $$ p f RUBY TUESD AY 11701 Bluegr ass Pk wy., 2 6 7-7100, 1354 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 288-5010. If success demons trates quality , then Rub y Tuesday’s 600 int ernational pr operties and 30,000 emplo yees can s tand up with pride .

They’ve been upholding the slogan “ Awesome Food. Serious Salad Bar ” in L ouisville f or a generation. $$ p e THE RUDYARD KIPLING 42 2 W. Oak St., 6 36-1311.

The word “eclectic” fits this Old L ouisville eatery in jus t about e very dimension, fr om its funk y decor to its diverse bill of f are, not to mention an array of ent ertainment that bridges the generations fr om Gener ation X’ ers t o aging hippies. $ p f e SAM’S FOOD & SPIRIT S 3800 P ayne K ohler Rd., Clarksville, IN, 945-9757, 724 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-7979. Opened b y a man named Sam some 16 years ago, the two locations feed an army of happy diners. You’ll find seafood,

steaks, pas tas, salads and des serts. T he menu is extensive and child friendly. $$ p SHANE’S 1004 10th St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9769. $ SHONEY’S 1890 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-6870, 811 Eastern Pkwy., 636-1043, 6511 Signatur e Dr., 9698904. F or nearly 50 y ears, Shone y’s r estaurants have been one of America’ s t op choic es f or f ast roadside dining, and happily they’ve kept up with the times. $ SKYLINE CHILI 12 66 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-12 34, Plainview V illage C enter, 42 9-5 77, 39 2 8 Dutchman’s Ln., 895- 7578, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37402 0, 42 6 W . Mark et St., 56 1-9999. L ouisville’s outposts of a f amous Cincinnati chili r estaurant, these casual eat eries off er the r egional f avorite (really it ’s Gr eek spaghetti sauc e, but k eep it quiet) and other fast-food dishes. $ STEAK N SHAKE 32 32 Bar dstown Rd., 456-2 6 70, 4913 Dixie Hwy., 448-4400, 4545 Outer Loop, 9663109, 2 717 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 91-3397, 10 72 1 Fischer P ark Dr ., 32 6- 362 5, 980 E. Hw y. 131, Clarksville, IN., 2 85- 1154. One of the oldes t f astfood chains in the U .S., St eak N Shak e tr aces its ancestry to an Illinois roadside stand in 1934. It now boasts 400 outlets in 19 states but still sticks to the basics: quality s teak bur gers and hand-dipped shakes served, if you dine in, on real china. $ TGI FRIDAY’S 9990 Linn Station Rd., 425-8185, 2311 Lime Kiln Ln., 32 7-8443, Fourth Street Live, 5853577. T he original plac e t o loosen the tie and congregate aft er the whis tle blo ws. TGIF carries on its party atmospher e tradition with American bistro dining and libations. T he bill of f are ranges fr om bask ets of appetiz ers on up t o contemporary entrées. $$ p f TOAST ON MARKET 736 E. Mark et St., 56 9-4099.

This quaintly his toric old theat er building, mor e recently a junque shop , is no w thor oughly renovated as the buzz-worthy Toast. Chef George Morris is turning out simple yet exciting breakfast and lunch dishes that add a t ongue-in-cheek bistro spin to traditional diner fare. $ p f TOMMY LANCASTER RESTAURANT 1629 E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 945-2 389 . Value and v ariety are the s trong points of this c ommunity tradition and the f are goes fr om bur gers t o lobs ter tails.

Friday or Saturday evenings feature a buffet. $ p TRELLIS RESTAURANT 320 W. Jefferson St. (Hyatt Regency), 58 7-3434. Dine on café f are in the Hyatt’s lofty atrium lobb y while y ou tak e advantage of an en vironment made f or peoplewatching. $$ p TUCKER’S 2 441 Stat e St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9449999. Tucker’s gives you a little bit of e verything with a do wn-to-earth flair, off ering bur gers, ribs, steaks, a variety of appetizers and pastas. $ p TWICE TOLD PERFORMANCE CAFÉ 3507 W. Hwy. 146, LaGrange, 222-4506. An eclectic urban café in a village setting, about 2 0 minut es eas t of downtown in LaGr ange. T he casual menu lis ts sandwiches, fruits and v eggies; daily soups and entrées. $ e TWIG & LEAF RES TAURANT 2 12 2 Bar dstown Rd., 451-8944. A popular Highlands hangout, the ”Twig” is probably at its best for breakfast—whether you’re enjoying it while v enturing out on a leisur ely Sunday morning or heading home v ery lat e on a Saturday night. It ’s a plac e t o gr ab a quick, filling bite, and doesn’t pretend to be more. $ THE VILLA BUFFET Caesars Indiana Casino , Elizabeth, IN, 888- 766-2 648. T he V illa Buff et offers an impr essive choic e of int ernational dishes, with some 150 selections. A seaf ood buffet is featured on Fridays. $$ WESTPORT GENERAL S TORE 7008 Hw y 5 2 4, Westport, KY., 222-4626. Only a half-hour ’s drive www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 65

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up the Ohio fr om Louisville, proprietors Will and Laura Cr awford w elcome visit ors t o this c ozy destination, offering a comfortably sophisticated bill of f are that w ould in no w ay be out of plac e in a fancy city bistro. $$ THE WING ZONE 905 Hess Ln., 636-2445. Another new wings emporium situated to catch the fancy of U of L f ans, W ing Z one e xcels with jumbo wings in 25 fla vors, including tr aditional Buffalostyle wings that range from Mild to Nuclear. $ f

BARBARA LEE’S KIT CHEN 2 410 Br ownsboro Rd., 897-3967. Barbara Lee’s has been a lat e-night refuge for years. It’s a reliable standby for those in search of traditional blue-plate special lunch food. Honest grub, honestly priced, in a rootsy atmosphere. $ BIG MAMA ’S SOUL KIT CHEN 4532 W . Br oadway, 772 -9580. Big Mama’ s ma y be the mos t hospitable place in the W est End t o get genuine soul f ood. A diff erent main c ourse is f eatured daily, all home-c ooked f ood, including such goodies as baked chicken, smothered pork chops, meat loaf, catfish … and fried chicken every day. $ CAROLYN’S 3822 Cane Run Rd., 776-9519. The steam table classic, the “meat ‘n’ tw o” gives you the roast chicken, green beans and mashed potatoes. Or pork chops, applesauce and limas. $ CHECK’S CAFÉ 1101 E. Burnett A ve., 637-9515. You can scent a whiff of L ouisville history coming off the old w alls of this quint essential Germant own saloon, along with years of frying grease. The bar food here is about as good as bar f ood gets, and that’s not bad. T he chili and the bean soup ar e particularly recommended. $ p f e THE CHICKEN HOUSE 7180 Hwy. 111, Sellersburg, IN., 2 46-9485. T he parking lot of this whit e fr ame building in rur al Indiana is pack ed on w eekend

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nights as f amilies from throughout the ar ea wait on delectable fried chick en. This is the v ery heart of American comfort food, including green beans, dumplings, and mashed potatoes. $$ CHICKEN KING 639 E. Br oadway, 589-5464. Spicy , crunchy and sizzling hot fried chick en is the primary draw on a short, aff ordable menu. $ COTTAGE CAFÉ 11609 Main St., Middlet own, 2 449497. This nostalgic old house in the c ountryside offers a tas te of K entucky-style c ookery in an array of lunch specials that r ange fr om homemade soups and sandwiches t o the traditional Louisville Hot Brown. $ COTTAGE INN 570 Eas tern Pk wy., 6 37-432 5. No w, this is down-home dining. Tucked away under big shade trees on Eas tern Parkway not f ar from the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Cottage Inn has been happily doling out excellent food for more than 70 years. $ DINNER IS DONE 3830 Ruckreigel Pkwy., 267-8686. $ D’NALLEY’S 970 S. T hird St., 583-8015. Dirt-cheap blue-plate specials and hearty br eakfasts bring droves to the c ounters and booths of this clas sic greasy spoon. Satur day morning hours ar e sporadic, but for a quick plate of meat loaf, green beans, and mashed potat oes, D’Nalley’s is a har d place to beat. $ FORK IN THE ROAD RESTAURANT 4951 Cane Run Rd., 448-3903. $ FRONTIER DINER 72 99 Dixie Hw y., 2 71-3663. T he name “ diner” sa ys it all, and this friendly neighborhood spot Dixie High way deliv ers jus t what y ou’d e xpect in do wn-home c omfort f are.

The word on the s treet, though, is simple: Go f or the pancakes. They’re worth a special trip. $ GENNY’S DINER 2 2 2 3 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 3-092 3.

What’s the difference between Genny’s Diner and a saloon? You can take the kids to Genny’s. Better

still, y ou can get a darn good meal at Genn y’s, provided that y ou set y our e xpectations f or hearty, filling and well-prepared diner food. $ p e GOLDEN CORRAL 4032 Taylorsville Rd., 485-0004, 8013 Pr eston Hw y., 966-4 970, 140 2 C edar St., 2 58-2 540. Buff et s tyle family dining—one pric e, all you can eat. Steaks are served beginning at 4 pm. $ GOOSE CREEK DINER 2923 Goose Creek Rd., 3398070. Goose Cr eek Diner off ers old-f ashioned comfort food, as the name “ diner” suggests, but transcendently adds a gourmet tas te t o the down-home eats. $ HAZELWOOD RESTAURANT 4106 Taylor Blvd., 3619104. Whether y ou lik e y our eggs o ver eas y, or your cheesebur gers w ell done , y ou’ll lik e the Hazelwood R estaurant. Standar d short or ders cooked with lots of character and a low price. $ HOMETOWN BUFFET 1700 Alliant Ave., 267-7044, 3710 Chamberlain Ln., 32 6-9 777, 664 1 Dixie Hw y., 9953320, 757 Hwy. 131, Clarksville, IN., 285-1893. This chain serves up nos talgic dishes, cas seroles, meats and desserts that allow you to set an all-American supper table with the all-you-can eat price tag. $ INDI’S RESTAURANT 1033 W. Broadway, 589-7985, 382 0 W. Mark et St., 77 8-5154, 4 901 Poplar L evel Rd., 964-5 749, 3353 F ern V alley Rd., 96 9-7993, 5009 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 535. Gr own fr om a tin y West End tak eout spot t o a mini-chain, Indi’ s vends a v ariety of aff ordable soul f ood and barbecue specialties to take out or eat in. $ JESSIE’S FAMILY RES TAURANT 9609 Dixie Hw y., 937-6332 . C ountry c ooking is Jes sie’s specialty , with hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner platters to fill the inner person. $ KINGS F AST FOOD 2 101 W . Br oadway, 77 2 -7138.

This tin y, c olorful W est End eat ery, open f or takeout only , off ers a v ast selection of filling, affordable urban f are that r anges fr om hot-andspicy chicken wings to rib tips and more. $ KING’S FRIED CHICKEN 1302 Dixie Hwy., 776-3013. $ LONGINO’S 1506 Berry Blvd., 361-9153. Don’t let the Italian family name fool you, this local fixture near Churchill Do wns f eatures do wn-home c ooking, mostly, r anging fr om fried gr een t omatoes t o hearty meat loaf to “The Manhattan.” $ MR. L OU’S C OUNTRY C OTTAGE RES TAURANT 5408 Valley Station Rd., 9 33-0806. Biscuits and red-eye gravy, country ham and grits show off Mr. Lou’s c ountry c ooking s tyle. R oast chick en is a dinner favorite, and so are homemade pies. $ O’DOLLYS 7800 Third St. Rd., 375-1690. Homestyle steam-table favorites are available from breakfast through dinner , not t o mention full bar servic e that mak es O’Dolly s a South west L ouisville destination. $ p f OLIVE’S ON FOURTH 570 S. F ourth St., 588-900 3.

No matt er what y ou’re hungry f or, chanc es ar e Olive’s has it—fr om s team-table f are t o pizza and calzones. C o-owners Linda Z eisloft and V icky Wright bring long back grounds at Sulliv an University to this comfortable downtown spot $ f SWEET PEA’S SOUTHERN (see listing under Bistro) TOLL BRIDGE INN 3300 North western Pk wy., 77 65505. A rich and c olorful his tory surr ounds the century-old fr ame building in Portland that no w houses the T oll Bridge Inn, a neighborhood favorite for simple, filling down-home fare. $ f WAGNER’S PHARMACY 3113 S. Fourth St., 375-3800.

A track-side institution that has as much history as the nearby Twin Spires of Churchill Downs. Soups, sandwiches, shak es, cherry C okes and an early bird “ trainer’s” br eakfast can be enjo yed all y ear round. Racing his tory on the w alls and serv ers who’ll call you “hon.” $

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WEBB’S MARKET 944 E. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 5830318. Webb’s is deli sandwich market style dining.

Country ham sandwiches and the half-pound cheeseburger are a specialty. $

ANN’S BY THE RIVER 149 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 84-2 66 7. T his bus tling eat ery is caf eteria style dining done well. They serve up the standard steam table meat-and-three menu items as good as any. With the Ohio River a block away, it’s aptly named. $ CRAVINGS A LA CARTE 101 S. Fifth St. (National City Tower), 589-42 30 . T his thrifty deli off ers a variety of build- your-own sandwiches, a soupand-salad bar, and specialty bars f eaturing baked potatoes, and a monthly ethnic cr eation. $ HALL’S CAFETERIA 1301 St ory A ve., 583-043 7.

Hall’s Cafeteria has been doing a brisk business on the steam tables since 1955, attracting customers from Butchertown’s truck loading docks and from offices downtown. $ JANE’S CAFETERIA 4601 Jennings Ln., 454- 72 86.

This 40- year-old f amily-owned r estaurant kno ws how t o c ook f or f olks mis sing their home table .

Count on an att entive s taff and fr esh southern fare. $ JAY’S CAFETERIA 1812 W . Muhammad Ali Blv d., 583-2 534. Ja y’s modern, w ell-scrubbed building wouldn’t be out of plac e on Hurs tbourne Lane .

Hungry diners fr om all o ver t own find a w arm welcome at this popular West End location that ’s now run as a c ommunity-development pr ogram by two local churches. $ PICCADILLY CAFETERIA 2131 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 493-9900, 133 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 423-1733. An east end favorite for variety, Piccadilly offers roast beef, fried chicken, cod, steak and shrimp dinners, a gar dener’s lis t of v egetables and a f ew ethnic dishes for global measure. $

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of the pr oduce is gr own on the pr season. $$ p f e

emises in

LUCKY S TRIKE LANES / FEL T Fourth Str eet Liv e, 560-1400. An upscale bo wling alle y? A clas sy poolroom? Who knew! These twin concepts from Jillian’s founders Stephen and Gillian F oster light up Fourth Street Live with a stylish blend of ’50sstyle r etro and high-t ech modern, plus a menu that serves much more than mere bar food. $$ p f MY OLD KENTUCK Y DINNER TRAIN 602 N. T hird St., Bardstown, KY, (502) 348-7300. Talk about a nostalgia trip: My Old K entucky Dinner T rain offers a f our-course meal during a tw o-hour voyage along scenic Kentucky railroad tracks near Bardstown in vintage 1940s-er a dining cars.

Reservations ar e s trongly r ecommended. All aboard! $$$$ p STAR CRUISES 151 W. Riv erside Rd., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 18- 1565. T he Ohio Riv er cruise is the bes t thing about this L ove Boat-s tyle y acht that makes nightly all- you-can-eat cruises up the river. $$$$ p f STUMLER RES TAURANT & ORCHARD 1092 4 St. John’s Rd., Starlight, IN, 9 23-3832. Fresh produce is available in the big shed a f ew steps away, and that fresh produce shows up on the tables here in mammoth portions. C ombine that with hones t fried chick en, big ham s teaks, r oast beef , and sandwiches, and you can’t go wrong. $$ f

AMERICAN PIZ ZA 6712 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 8966. $ p e ANGILO’S PIZZA 1725 Berry Blvd., 368-1032. The local favorite is the s teak hoagie , dripping with pizza sauce, pickles and onions. Angilo’ s also off ers a wide selection of hot pizza pies and c old beer. $

ANGIO’S RES TAURANT 3731 Old Bar dstown Rd., 451-5454. T his small Buechel eat ery attr acts a friendly neighborhood crowd with hefty subs and quality pizzas, along with c old beer. $ ANNIE’S PIZZA 2520 Portland Ave., 776-6400, 4007 Cane Run Rd., 44 9-4444. Annie’ s has made-t oorder pizza and a v ariety of s tacked sandwiches such as the Big Daddy Str om with beef , Italian sausage, onions and banana peppers. $ ARNI’S PIZZA 1208 State St., New Albany, IN, 9451149, 3700 Paoli Pike, Floyds Knobs, IN, 923-9805.

A favorite Hoosier pizza and sandwich stop. Insist on getting the Deluxe. $ BEARNO’S PIZ ZA 131 W. Main St., 584- 7437, 2 900 Taylorsville Rd., 458-8605, 6 101 Bar dstown Rd., 2 31-2 2 2 2 , 135-F Mark etplace Dr ., 95 7-5100, 10117 Taylorsville Rd., 2 6 7-2 549, 1318 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4556, 8019 Pr eston Hw y., 968-6060 , 9 2 2 2 Westport Rd.,42 3- 12 2 4, 7 895 Dixie Hw y., 9 371234, 1923 S. F ourth St., 6 34-5155, 922 Chambers Blvd., Bardstown, KY, 348-4848, 3002 Charlestown Crossing, New Albany, IN, 94 9-7914, 2 784 Meijers Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-3125, $ p BIG WILLIE’S PIZZA PUB 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 2610650. $ BRUNO’S PIZZA 5170 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-5050. $$ CICI’S PIZZA 470 New Albany Plaza, Ne w Albany, IN., 944-4 942 , 309 3 Br eckinridge Ln., 45 2 -6700, 52 2 6 Dixie Hw y., 448-8895. Serious bar gainhunters will find Cici’ s culinary offer hard to beat.

This Dallas-based chain serv es up all the pizza you can eat for only $3.99. $ CLIFTON’S PIZ ZA 2 2 30 Fr ankfort Ave., 89 3-3730.

Clifton’s pizza appeals t o me with its adult s tyle, full of the bold fla vors of herbs and spic es and available with gr own-up t oppings lik e ancho vies and artichoke hearts. All this and funky, fun decor makes it one of m y favorite local pizzerias. $ f e

SOUTH SIDE INN CAFETERIA 114 E. Main St., Ne w Albany, IN., 945-9645. Ne w o wners Joe Pee vor and Angela Ha wley, ha ve spruc ed up this venerable old caf eteria sinc e taking o ver this summer, and the y’re adding a sports bar and patio. Don’t look for much change in South Side’s familiar f are, though: T here’s no point in fixing what’s not broken. $

BUFFALO CROSSING 1140 Bagdad Rd., Shelb yville, KY, (502) 647-0377. If you’d like to combine a day trip with a culinary adv enture, consider a drive to Buffalo Cr ossing in Shelb y C ounty. T his agricultural amusement park f eatures a 500-head buffalo herd and an o versize dining r oom where you can give this healthy red meat a try. The food here is c ountry-style and so ar e the friendly servers. $$ f DERBY DINNER PLAYHOUSE 525 Marriott Dr., Clarksville, IN, 288-8281. The play’s the thing at Derby Dinner Playhouse, L ouisville’s long-running entry in the dinner-theater s weepstakes … but the e xpansive buffet dinner adds value to the mix. $$$$ e HOWL AT THE MOON Fourth Street Live, 562-9400.

What’ll they think of next? How about a nightclub that f eatures a “ dueling” piano bar with tw o pianos and a sing-along c oncept? You’ll find this 4,000-square-foot club at F ourth Str eet Liv e on the ground level. $ p e JOE HUBER F AMILY F ARM & RES TAURANT 2421 Scottsville Rd., Starlight IN, 9 23-5255. A pleasant 2 0-minute driv e fr om do wntown L ouisville, Huber’s has built a solid r eputation f or simple farm fare that’s well-made, fresh and good. Some

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DANNY MAC’S PASTA & PIZZA 1014 Clarks Ln., 6357994. $ DOMINO’S PIZZA (20 locations) $$ FAST BREAK PIZ ZA 682 5 C entral A ve., 2 43-1101.

Scott Hack’s new Italian spot, featuring pizza, subs and other Italian- American goodies in a spacious sports bar with a bask etball theme, is luring pizza lovers out to Crestwood for fine traditional pizzas plus such inno vative it ems as the pineappletopped Big Kahuna and, believe it or not, a baconcheeseburger pie. $ FAT JIMMY’S 9901C LaGr ange Rd., 339-8111, 2 712 Frankfort A ve., 891-4555; 2 2 08 Bar dstown Rd., 479-1040; 1382 9 English V illa Dr., 2 44-0840; 5 2 8 S. Fifth St. This friendly neighborhood nook offers a cold mug of beer and a hot slice of pizza, along with sub sandwiches, pas ta dishes and salads.

The Lyndon spot lures a friendly bik er crowd; the Crescent Hill eatery reflects its urban setting. $ FAT TONY’S PIZZA 9910 Linn Station Rd., 339-3553.

Formerly Brick Ov en Pizza, F at Tony’s has been attracting big lunchtime crowds to Plainview with authentic Ne w Y ork-style pizza, the thin-crus t kind with o versize slices that y ou have to fold in half in order to make a mouth-size portion. Other basic Italian- American pas ta dishes add t o the appeal of this casual, aff ordable spot. $$ FRESCO SOUTHWES T GRILL & PIZ ZA 2 047 L ytle St., 77 6-6077. L ocally o wned and oper ated but with development as a chain in its busines s plan, this comfortable, welcoming spot opened firs t in the city’ s r estaurant-underserved Portland neighborhood, off ering f ast-food s tyle and a choice of w ell-made burritos and other Me xicanstyle goodies and pizza, t oo. $ f FROLIO’S PIZ ZA 3799 Poplar L evel Rd., 456- 1000.

Just ar ound the c orner fr om the L ouisville Z oo, Frolio’s is a neighborhood pizz eria with a c ozy, dim Italian- American mood and an all- you-caneat pizza-and-salad lunch special. $$ f HOMETOWN PIZZA 11804 Shelbyville Rd., 245-4555, 8442 Dixie Hw y., 9 35-3555, La Gr ange Squar e Shopping C enter, 2 2 2 -4444. P asta dishes, hoagies, s tromboli and c old beer ar e a vailable, and so is the one-of-a-kind Bac on Cheeseburger pizza. $$ IROQUOIS PIZZA 6614 Manslick Rd., 363-3211. $$ JOCKAMO’S PIZZA PUB 983 Goss Ave., 637-5406.

Old-timers are delighted to see Jock amo’s Pizza Pub back in business in Germantown, more than a decade after it depart ed Bardstown Road. Some of the original o wners ( except the lat e Da ve Wilder) ha ve r ecreated the s tyle, the mood and the live music, of the original. $$ e KING BENNY’S PIZ ZA T AVERN 634-1003. $$ p f e

1919 S. Pr eston,

LITTLE CAES AR’S PIZ ZA 816 K enwood Dr ., 3665599, 9017 G alene Dr ., 2 6 7-8600, 562 2 Pr eston Hwy. 966-5800 , 6 714 Out er L oop, 966- 3111, 12 418 LaGrange Rd., 2 41-5445. T his Detr oit-based pizzeria chain los t mark et shar e in the ‘90s, but business analysts say the c ompany known f or its two-for-one “pizza pizza” deal has turned things around with a renewed commitment to quality and service. $$ LOUISVILLE PIZZA CO. 3910 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 2671188. Also kno wn as Chubb y Ra y’s, this local pizzeria mak es good, fr esh pizzas and ItalianAmerican sandwiches. $ p f MA ZERELLA S 949 S. Indiana A ve., Sellersburg, IN, 246-9517. Pleasant family-run-for-family-fun establishments. Pizza, pasta, salads and subs serv ed for lunch and dinner seven days a week. $ MR. GATTI’S 5600 S. T hird St., 36 3-2 2 11, 8594 Dixie Hwy., 935-0100, 3319 Bardstown Rd., 451-0540, 1108 Lyndon Ln., 339-8338, 2 2 47 S. Pr eston St., 6 3568 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

6708, 42 00 Out er L oop, 964-09 2 0. T his A ustinbased chain w as one of the firs t national pizzerias t o r each L ouisville in the 19 70s, and quality ingredients—plus Gattiland playgrounds for the kids—ha ve made its crisp , thin-crus t pizzas a popular draw for nearly 30 years. $$ PA PA MURPHY’S PIZ ZA 2 91 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 8956363, 5016 Mud Ln., 962- 7272, 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 2 66-7000, 16 1 Out er L oop, 36 1-3444; 460 7 Out er Loop, 964- 72 72 ; 12 535 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-9191, 6756 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-82 82 , 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 280-7272. $$ PAPA JOHN’S PIZ ZA (30 locations ) “P apa” John Schnatter got int o the pizza game as a Southern Indiana high-school student in 1984 and has built his business into a 3, 000-restaurant international chain on the basis of a simple f ormula: traditional pizza, made fr om quality ingr edients in a straightforward style. $$ PIZZA BO X 10331 Champion F arms Dr ., 42 3-0530 .

Moved early in 2 005 fr om its longtime , spartan quarters near the Ford Kentucky Truck Plant, Pizza Box now boasts more modern and stylish quarters in Springhurs t. It ’s s till a popular gathering plac e, and the e xcellent pizzas ar e s till a dr aw, e ven if they’ve cut back on the onc e imposing beer list. $ PIZZA BY THE GUY 8109 Lagrange Rd., 426-4044.

This locally owned franchise is famous for its extra spicy, hand-t ossed dough. C ome and get it, literally, because ther e’s only a c ozy table f or three at the store and most folks pick up their pie or have it delivered. $ PIZZA HUT (15 locations) $$ PIZZA KING 382 5 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 945-4405, 1066 K ehoe Ln., Jeff ersonville, IN., 2 82 8286. The pizza at Pizza King is bak ed in a s turdy, clay stone oven and hand-tossed with thinner crust where the ingredients go all the way to the edge. $$ PIZZA PLACE 2931 Richland Ave., 458-9700. $ PIZZERIA UNO CHICA GO BAR & GRILL 6501 Bardstown Rd., 239-0079. This successful franchise serves up Chicago s tyle pizza—deep dish with more t oppings than crus t. Steaks, pas tas, sandwiches and bur gers c omplement the full service menu. $$ p PRADO’S PIZZA 12935 Shelbyville Rd., 254-7220. $$ SNAPPY T OMATO (7 L ocations) A gr owing Midwestern pizza-deliv ery chain based in Northern K entucky, Snapp y Tomato mo ved int o the Louisville market this summer, taking o ver all the pr operties v acated in Pizza Magia’ s demise .

Pizzas are made with fresh ingredients (including an unusual cinnamon-apple pizza “pie”), and the chicken wings are impressive. $$ SPINELLI’S PIZ ZERIA 614 Baxt er A ve., 568-5665.

This tin y s torefront in the city’ s night club z one offers a tas ty option f or the wide-e yed-late-atnight cr owd seeking good cheap eats; it ’s open until 5 a.m nightly fr om W ednesdays thr ough Saturdays. Bett er y et, it giv es L ouisville an authentic taste of Philadelphia specialties: Philly style pizza and real Philly cheese steaks. $ f SPORTSTIME PIZZA 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 944-2 577. T outing “ the bes t pizza in southern Indiana” is quite a boast, but when the pizza biz is part of the Ne w Albanian Br ewing Company, the boast carries w eight. T he N.A.B. C. is the ne west offshoot of Rich O’s, nationally noted for its huge selection of microbrews and hard-to-find imports.

Try the “Herbavore” with spinach, sliced tomatoes and roasted garlic for a sizzling start. $ TONY BOOMBOZZ 3334 Frankfort Ave., 896-9090, 1448 Bardstown Rd., 458-8889 . Boombozz wins praise f or e xceptionally high quality pizza and other quick Italian-s tyle f are. T ony’s pizzas include both tr aditional pies and gourmet-s tyle specialties that ha ve w on a wards in national competition. $$

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TONY BOOMBO ZZ PIZ ZA & VINO 2 813 N. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 394-0000 . Boombo zz has taken its pizza c oncept t o a ne w le vel with the opening of Pizza & V ino in Springhurs t. The new “fast casual” f acility f eatures the a ward-winning Boombozz pizzas and paninis with a w ell-chosen wine and beer lis t, in a a s triking “urban loft ” tangerine and jade setting with Italian-made furniture to add an upscale ac cent. $$ p TONY IMPELLIZ ZERI’S 108 V ieux Carr e Dr ., 42 90606. The original Impellizzeri’s Pizza is gone from the Highlands, but this decade-old s trip-center storefront near Hurstbourne houses brother Tony’s venture. If you like the massive, heavily loaded Impellizzeri pizza s tyle, it ’s a tr eat not t o be missed. $$ VITO’S PIZ ZERIA 32 13 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-5400.

Reasonable people can diff er on the subject, but Vito’s f ans sa y the sizzling, o ven-charred pies at this downscale little plac e on Pr eston are among the best pizzas in town. $$ WICKS PIZ ZA PARLOR 975 Baxt er Ave., 458- 182 8, 2927 Goose Creek Rd., 327-9425, 12717 Shelbyville Rd., 213-9425, 10966 Dixie Hwy., 995-4333. Wick’s wins popularity with a w elcoming mix of good pizza, a quality beer lis t and a friendly neighborhood feel at all thr ee of its eat eries. The pies ar e straightforward, made with ample toppings. “The Big Wick” is a favorite. $ p WINGS TO GO 4324 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 941-9464. $ WINDY CITY PIZ ZERIA 2 62 2 S. F ourth St., 6 363708. Stuffed Chicago-style and crispy thin-crust pizzas off er whiche ver option a pizza lo ver desires. $$ ZA’S PIZZA 1573 Bardstown Rd., 454-4544. $$

p

AMAZING GRA CE WHOLE FOOD S DELI 1133 Bardstown Rd., 485- 112 2 . If you think “v egan” means only r aw carrots, bean spr outs, seeds and roots, think again. No animals w ere harmed in the making of the tas ty alt ernative sandwiches and other dishes at this neat little deli attached t o a spiffy local organic-foods grocery. $ ANOTHER PLACE SANDWICH SHOP 119 S. Seventh St., 589-4115. If you want to buy a car, go to a car dealer. To buy a carpet, patr onize a carpet shop .

And if you’ve got a sandwich on your to-do list, it makes sense to go to a sandwich shop. $ BACKYARD BURGER 1800 Priority Way, 240-9945.

The open flame at this c ounter-service diner provides the ne xt best thing t o a f amily cookout.

Sandwiches, fresh salads, fruit c obblers and oldfashioned hand-dipped milkshak es enhanc e the nostalgic theme. $ f

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DEVINO’S 320 Main St., 56 9-3939. Right acr oss the street fr om L ouisville Slugger Field, this s tylish new deli adds another lunch and dinner option to the booming eas t-of-downtown z one.

Sandwiches ar e made fr om quality Boar ’s Head meats and cheeses cut on the pr emises, with dining inside and on the patio; pack age beer and wine is also available. $ f DINO’S DO WN T O L UNCH CAFÉ 2 39 S Fifth St. (Kentucky Home Life Building) 585-2874. $ DIZZY WHIZZ DRIVE-IN 217 W. St. Catherine St., 5833828. This neighborhood eat ery is an ins titution. It goes back more than 50 years and hasn’t changed much. It opens early and stays open late and offers good value for what you’d expect. $ f DMITRI’S DELI 521 S. T hird St., 584-8060 . A do wntown deli f avorite. Daily specials ar e surr ounded by an impr essive v ariety of sandwiches, soups and salads. $ f DOOLEY’S BAGELCATESSEN 12903 Shelbyville Rd., 245-3354, 216 N. Hurs tbourne Ln., 394-0021, 980 Breckenridge Ln., 89 3-3354, 2 2 41 Stat e St., Ne w Albany, IN, 981-012 4, 2226 Holida y Manor C enter, 42 6-3354. T his c onvenient deli specializ es in bagels, as the name implies. Br eakfast means fresh bagels with an arr ay of cr eam cheese , sausage, eggs and coffee. At lunchtime lines form for sandwiches—subs, panini, wr aps, hot melts and cold cuts. $ EURO MARKET 12 907 F actory Ln., 2 43-0000. It looks like a neighborhood c onvenience store and bottle shop, but when you get inside, it contains a delicious surprise: an appetizing servic e c ounter offers a v ariety of goodies t o take out or eat in.

Don’t miss the e xcellent fried-oyster box, as w ell as an intriguing selection of quality beers and fine wines. $

“I found Houston invaluable in opening our restaurant … his help was instrumental.”

Len Stevens, Owner, L&N Wine Bar and Bistro

Houston D. Jones, Jr. 13121 Eastpoint Park Blvd.

Eastpoint Office Park, Suite 7G Louisville, KY 40243 502.419.7799 • 502.228.4908 Fax Contact Houston for a confidential review of your needs.

houston@thehoustongroup.net

HERMAN’S DELICA TESSEN 3985 Dut chmans Ln., 897-7570. In y et another not eworthy geogr aphical and ethnic shift, this building that onc e held a Tumbleweed (and w as originally an Ollie’ s Trolley) now houses a f airly good r endition of a Ne w York City kosher-style deli. Make mine pastrami! $$ HONEYBAKED CAFÉ 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 8956001, 6423 Bardstown Rd., 239-9292, 757 Lewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville IN, 284-1799. $

BLIMPIE’S SUBS & S ALADS 2020 Brownsboro Rd., 899-7960, 3360 Hik es Ln., 451-5480 . Sublime subs—fast and fr esh. Blimpie’s is all that … and a bag of chips. $

JASON’S DELI 410 N. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 412-4101.

Don’t look f or New York kosher-style deli at this Texas-based chain, but suburbanites are lining up at the ne w Hurs tbourne location f or o versize sandwiches, salads, wraps and more. $ f

pf

CIANO’S 11904 Shelbyville Rd., 245-6997. $

JERSEY MIKE’S SUBS AND S ALADS 10266 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-1991, 10519 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 5-102 5, 9156 T aylorsville Rd., 4 99-9830. Eas t Coast-style sub shop with local faves that includes cheese, ham, pr osciuttini, capic ola, salami, pepperoni and fixings. $

DANISH EXPRES S PASTRIES 102 1/2 Cannons Ln., 895-2 863. Jus t a f ew tables turn this tak eout nook into a si t-in breakfast and lunch spot f or a handful of diners at a time . Full br eakfasts and light lunches ar e a vailable, but as the name implies, Danish pas tries ar e the specialty , and they’re fine. $

JIMMY JOHN’S SUB SHOP 4000 Shelbyville R oad, 894-3331, 3901 Dutchmans Lane, 894-9393. When longtime St. Matthe ws landmark E dwards Phot o succumbed t o the digital r evolution, this Illinoisbased sandwich-shop chain stood poised to move in. Standar d subs benefit fr om fr esh, quality ingredients, but we’re particularly smitten with the

CHICAGO GYROS 2317 Brownsboro Rd., 895-3270. $ p

Concept & Design Construction & Equipment Real Estate & Brokerage Restaurant

FRASCELLI’S NEW Y ORK DELI 62 47 Cr estwood Station, 2 43-9005. S mall and spartan, this tw oroom storefront just out from Pewee Valley offers a broad selection of Italian-s tyle deli sandwiches, plus a shorter list of home-style Italian hot dishes from lasagna to baked ziti. $

HOTDOG HEAVEN 209 E. Main St., 222-2626. $

CHICAGO GRILL & SUBS 1626 Spring St., Jeffersonville, IN. 288-5988. $ f

• • • •

THE FEED BA G DELI 133 Breckenridge Ln., 896- 1899.

The grilled salmon bur ger is w orth the visit, as well as the Triple Crown wrap with three meats or a fresh veggie wrap. Soups, des serts t op off the lunch-only schedule. $

BANK SHOT BILLIARDS 403 E. Market St., 587-8260. $

C.A.P.P.P.’S DELI 4010 Dupont Cir., 895-7064. $

DESIGN / BUILD “From concept to reality.”

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thick-sliced se ven-grain br ead. Try the “Gourmet Veggie Club” for a vegetarian treat. $ f JUANITA’S BURGER BOY 1450 S. Brook, 635-7410.

For a r eal slic e of L ouisville lif e, this w eathered greasy spoon at the corner of Brook and Burnett is the r eal thing. Neighborhood deniz ens drink coffee and cho w do wn on bur gers and br eakfast until the w ee hours (the joint is open 2 4 hours). If Louisville is home to a budding Charles Bukowski, ther e’s a good chanc e he’ s sitting at Juanita’s counter right no w, recovering from last night’s excesses. $ JUST FRESH BAKER Y CAFÉ & MARKET 1255 Bardstown Rd., 4 12 -4101. T he short-liv ed Baja Fresh occupied this ne w glass-walled building f or only a short time before leaving it vacant. Now the Just Fresh chain mo ves in, off ering fast-food fare billed as healthy and natural. $ f LITTLE CHEF 147 E. Mark et St., Ne w Alban y, IN, 949-7567. E very city needs a pos tage-stampsized spot that kno ws ho w t o fry potat oes and grill up a burger. In New Albany, the place is Little Chef. Biscuits and gr avy, fried eggs, and bur gers, in a joint that seems lik e a thr owback t o the heartland of America, circa 1940. $ f LONNIE’S BEST TASTE OF CHICAGO 121 St. Matthews Ave., 895-2 380 . T his appetizing oper ation off ers genuine Chicago hot dogs and a tas te of Chicago atmosphere for a price that won’t hurt your wallet.

Make Lonnie’s the plac e to go when y ou’ve got a hankering for Windy City fare. $ LOTSA P ASTA 3717 L exington Rd., 896-6 361. L otsa Pasta originated as an Italian specialty-food store, and it has been a local f avorite for more than 20 years. It now offers deli meats and cheeses and an eclectic int ernational selection of sausages and cheese. A lar ge sit-do wn section off ers a comfortable plac e t o enjo y c offee, pas try and sandwiches made to order in the deli. $ LUNCH TODAY 590 Missouri Ave., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 82 -1005. T his outfit pr epares its shar e of the soups, salads and sandwiches that the downtown workforce needs to re-energize. $ f MAIN EATERY 643 W. Main St., 589- 3354. Smack dab in the middle of the Main Str eet his toric district, this f ashionable deli lur es the sa vvy business midday crowd. $ f MARKET ON MARKET 445 E. Market St., 568-8810.

Sharing the ground floor of the renovated, historic Cobalt building with Primo , this upscale mark et brings gr ocery options t o the gr owing liv e-in population east of downtown, and an inviting deli for sandwiches and salads, t oo. $ MCALISTER’S DELI 10041 Forest Green Blvd., 4258900, 2721 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 671-2424, 2400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8544, 6508 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-9997, 1305 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3354. Emphasizing quality cus tomer service, this delicatessen ladles up such soups as gumbo and chick en t ortilla along with cutting boar d favorites. They have a special w ay with a tumbler of sweet iced tea and lemon. $ f MORRIS DELI & CA TERING 2 2 2 8 Taylorsville Rd., 458-1668. Man y locals s till kno w this small, popular Highlands deli as K arem Deeb’s aft er its longtime pr evious o wner. Mos tly f or tak eout—it packs in a f ew cr owded tables—it ’s kno wn f or high-quality, hand-made deli fare. $

fare vaults it into the realm of serious destinations for har d-core “f oodies,” with e xtra cr edit f or friendly, welcoming service. $ OLLIE’S TROLLEY 978 S. Third St., 583-5214. A little piece of f ast-food his tory r emains on an urban street c orner in Old L ouisville. It ’s one of the nation’s f ew surviving tr olleys of the L ouisvillebased chain that spr ead across the nation in the ‘70s. Ov ersize bur gers with a spicy , homemade flavor are just as good as ever. $ ORDERS UP CAFÉ & DELI 1981 Nelson Miller Pkwy., 245-5991. Quick and casual, Or ders Up offers the inviting atmosphere of dr opping in t o someone’s home f or lunch. Soups salads and fr eshly made sandwiches ar e unif ormly appetizing, and sandwiches are affordably priced at $5 or les s. $ PANERA BREAD C O. 5000 Shelb yville Rd., 8999992 , 62 2 1 Dut chmans Ln., 895-9991, 601 S. Hurstbourne Ln., 42 3- 7343, 10451 Champion Farms Dr., 42 6-2 134, 3131 Poplar L evel Rd., 6 359164, 1040 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 889400. Warm breads finish-baked on the premises make a tas ty base f or a v ariety of sandwiches.

Soups, salads, c offee drinks and a fr ee W iFi hotspot make Panera’s outlets popular gathering places. $ f PAUL’S FRUIT MARKET 3905 Chenoweth Sq., 8968918, 4 946 Br ownsboro Rd., 42 6-5059 , 12 119 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-00 72 , 3704 Taylorsville Rd., 456-4750. One of L ouisville’s popular sour ces f or produce, cheeses, deli items, and the like. Deli sandwiches and salads are available (takeout only). $ PENN S TATION (14 L ocations). Billed as the Eas t Coast Sub Headquart ers, this sandwich kit chen does a brisk business here in the Louisville area. $ QUIZNO’S SUBS (17 locations ) T oasted br eads, a sandwich selection of meats, v eggies and fish ar e built to fight hunger. Fresh soups are available daily, from chili to chowder; so are salads and desserts. $ SCHLOTZSKY’S DELI 10531 Fischer P ark Dr ., 42 58447, 12915 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9069. The original Schlotzsky’s off ered jus t one kind of sandwich— “The Original”— when it opened its firs t eat ery in Austin, Texas, in 1971. Now this national chain vends a full selection of deli-style fare, with one significant improvement on the traditional deli: the servers are invariably polite. $ f SHADY LANE CAFÉ 4806 Brownsboro Center, 8935118. T wo Guys and a Grill is no mor e, but one assumes that the grill r emains on the pr emises of this suburban luncheon spot under its new name $ SOUPY’S 3019 Br eckenridge Ln., 451-532 5, 46 32 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 99-4404, 4590 Dixie Hwy, 449-2 000, 94 93 W estport Rd, 42 5-2 54 9, 2 9 30 Dr. W illiam W eathers Dr., 774-2 500. In the soup kettles y ou will find such clas sics as chees y potato, bean and ham, br occoli and cheese , chicken and dumplings and mor e. At the cutting board they’ll make you meat, cheese and v eggie sandwiches according to your custom design. $ THE S TARVING ARTIS T CAFÉ & DELI Lagrange Rd., 412-1599. $

8034 Ne w

STEVENS & STEVENS 1114 Bardstown Rd., 584-3354.

Sharing space with the popular Ditt o’s, Stevens & Stevens is primarily kno wn f or cat ering and takeout fare. They cook just as w ell if y ou choose to stay in, though, off ering appealing sandwiches and deli fare with a healthy twist. $

NANCY’S BA GEL GROUND S 2 101 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-832 3. A friendly and casual neighborhood gathering spot. Off erings include soups, snacks, coffee drinks and bagels made on the premises to its own rather idiosyncratic formula. $ f

STRAWBERRY P ATCH DELI 11616 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-1440. T his Middlet own deli off ers health y food with a dash of gourmet and a sprinkle of southern. $

NORD’S BROWN BAG PUB & DELI 2100 S. Preston St., 635-6747. This simple little neighborhood spot near the University of Louisville may not be much for atmosphere, but well-fashioned if simple diner

SUB STATION II 3101 Fern Valley Rd., 964- 1075. The hardy No . 19 , a six -meat-and-cheese super sub , keeps the store buzzing. An arr ay of sandwiches, salad sides and des serts fill out an appetizing lunch menu. $

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THE BODEGA 829 E. Market St., 569-4100. This new entry in the e xciting F elice Plaza eas t of downtown c ombines a small specialty -food market, wine-and-beer shop and deli under one compact r oof. Select fr om Blue Dog br eads, Boar’s Head meats and cheeses and other good things, and the y’ll build y our lunch t o dine in or enjoy on their sunny patio. $ f THEATER SQU ARE DELI 2 2 T heater Squar e, 5840364. T he name has changed (f ormerly Anthony’s), but the mis sion remains pretty much the same: Feed do wntown lunch cr owds quick and affordable deli fare and sandwiches f W.W. C OUSINS RES TAURANT 900 Dupont Rd., 897-9684. T his locally o wned and oper ated eatery looks a lot lik e the national Fuddruck ers chain, but the local bo ys do a bett er job , with huge bur gers on magis terial home-bak ed buns and a Metropolitan Museum of toppings. $ WALL ST. DELI 225 Abraham Flexner Way at Jewish Hospital, 585-4202. Offering New York style with Kentucky flair, this bus y downtown deli will serv e in-house diners or tak e or ders f or deliv eries.

Authentic Nathan’s Hot Dogs are a specialty. $ WILD O ATS NA TURAL MARKETPLA CE 4600 Shelbyville Rd., 721-7373. This national natural-food grocery includes a sit-do wn café wher e y ou can order pizzas, sandwiches, or even sushi. $ f ZAP’S 423 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 587-0251 $

BAKE’S BARBEQUE 542 7 V alley Station Rd., 9 350999. Bak e’s ribs ar e smok ed t o such t ender perfection that the meat slides off the bone . This is four-star barbecue , fully c ompetitive with the region’s best. $$ BOOTLEG BARBECUE COMPANY 9704 Bardstown Rd., 2 39-2 72 2 , 7 508 Pr eston Hw y., 968-565 7.

Bootleg Barbecue off ers a t ouch of rus ticity and a good helping of c ountry hospitality, as it dishes out hearty portions of w ell pr epared and affordable smok ed meats and fixin’ s. It ’s one of the f ew plac es in L ouisville wher e y ou can get Western Kentucky-style mutton barbecue. $ f BOURBON BROS. BBQ 2900 Brownsboro Rd., 8962486. Bourbon Br os. BBQ pr epares w ell-crafted smoked meats including pork ribs that, on their best da ys, appr oach c ompetition quality . An added plus for interesting sauces including at least one that ’s amply dosed with the eat ery’s namesake booze. $ f BRANDON’S BAR-B-QUE 9246 Westport Rd., 4266666, 10 301 T aylorsville Rd., 2 6 1-0650, 7 117 Shelbyville Rd., 7 2 2 -0616. F eaturing hick orysmoked T ennessee-style barbecue sandwiches and filling, aff ordable dinners, this long-time Eas t End f avorite has added tw o more neighborhood locations. $ CLARK BOY BAR-B-Q 672 8 Johnsont own Rd., 9 335577. If it’s a little off the beaten path, there’s nothing the matter with that. Clark Bo y’s reasonably priced Western K entucky-style barbecue is w ell w orth a special trip . Lik e man y mom ’n’ pop eat eries, it accepts cash only, no plastic. $ FAMOUS D AVE’S BAR-B-QUE 8605 Citadel W ay, 493-2 812 , 1360 V eterans Pk wy., Clarks ville, IN, 282-3283. This franchise chain oper ation may be based in the twin cities, but it looks like a Georgia gas station with its e xuberant, if tongue-in-cheek faux country decor. The important thing, though, is the f ood, and Da ve’s e xcels with genuine , hickory-smoked barbecue. $$ p f FINLEY’S HICK ORY SMOKED BAR-B-Q 1500 W .

Broadway, 581-0298. Rib tips are the specialty but you’ll find turk ey legs, ham, half-chick ens, pork chops and shr edded beef and pork —all f or

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dinners or sandwiches, and barbecued pig’ s feet for the BBQ purists. $ f

sports-bar environment that emulates a Colorado ski lodge. $$ p

FIRE FRESH BBQ 6435 Bardstown Rd., 2 39- 7800, 3065 Breckinridge Ln., 459-5201, 808 Lyndon Ln., 32 7-6304, 2 11 S. Fifth St., 5401171, 86 10 Dixie Hwy., 995- 7585, 12 2 16 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-2 2 73.

Fire fighters, it is said, eat heartily and well. It’s no coincidence, then, that Fir eFresh Bar B Q pa ys homage to local fire departments in its restaurant’s decor. T he barbecue and c ountry fixin’ s s tand comparison to the best firehouse cuisine. $ f

TONY ROMA’S 150 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-8500.

From the t omato tang t o a smok y Blue Ridge savor, R oma’s adv ertises its ribs as the bes t dressed in t own. Burgers, chicken and s teaks are available as w ell, but w e r ecommend the r acks and baby backs of pork and beef . $$$ p

JIMBO’S BBQ 801 Kenwood Dr., 375-1888. This South End barbecue shack, an outpost of a popular spot in C orydon, IN, off ers a fine r ange of barbecue meats skillfully smok ed on the pr emises, with sauce served on the side as it should be . $ JUCY’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE 7626 Lagrange Rd., 2 41-582 9. Jucy’ s off ers e xceptionally good Texas-style barbecue fr om a little w ooden shack that looks jus t lik e a c ountry BBQ joint should.

Highly recommended. $$ f MARCUS’ RIBS B Y THE SLAB 701 Algonquin Pk wy., 637-5333. Long-known as Cleon’ s Rib Shack, this West End f avorite’s ne w name r eflects ne w ownership, but w e’re hearing that one important thing hasn’t changed: It ’s s till a fine plac e t o get manly spare ribs and soulful sides, inner-city style. $ MARK’S FEED S TORE 1142 2 Shelb yville Rd., 2 440140, 1514 Bar dstown Rd., 458- 1570, 10 316 Dixie Hwy., 933-7707, 513 E. IN Hw y. 131, Clarks ville, IN, 285-1998. Named for its first restaurant’s location in a f ormer f eed s tore with that do wn-home country f eel, Mark’ s impr esses with high-quality hickory-smoked pork and chicken, and rich, silken South Car olina barbecue sauc e, the y ellow mustard-based variety. $$ f OLE HICKORY PIT BAR-B-QUE 6106 Shepherdsville Rd., 968-0585. Located in an attractive house not far fr om Gener al Electric ’s Applianc e P ark, this Louisville relative of a f amous Western Kentucky barbecue pit is well worth the trip. $ PEPPER SHAKER CHILI & BAR-B-Q 4912 Pr eston Hwy., 964- 3011. A squadr on of hea vy black -iron smokers burn thr ough c ords of hick ory t o turn out some of the t own’s best barbecue at a pric e that’s right. $ p PICNICATERS BBQ & CATERING 514 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 584-7427. Located across from Louisville Gardens, this place puts the hot sauce, wings and chops right in the middle of a hungry busines s district. $ f PIG CITY BBQ 12 003 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-3535.

Down-home and hones t, the name of this ne w barbecue eatery in a Middletown shopping center pretty much sa ys it all. Smok e ’em if y ou’ve got ’em—and they do with all cherry w ood. $$ f PIT S TOP BAR-B-QUE 612 S. Fifth St., 584-4054.

Genuine T exas barbecue , dry and t ender meat, red-rimmed and savory from hours in the smoker, is the style served here. March up to the window, place your order, bus your own plate. No muss, no fuss, and it is very good. $ f RUBBIE’S BAR-B-QUE & BREW 6905 Southside Dr., 367-0007. T his South End f amily kno ws ho w t o do BBQ. It ma y be off the beat en path f or some folks but here you’ll find the bounty of secret BBQ recipes. $ p f e SCOTTY’S RIBS AND MORE 14049 Shelbyville Rd., 2 44-6868. Ribs, pork, chick en a la cart e and dinners. The small East End venue moves a lot of pizzas and salads as well. $$ p SMOKEY BONES BBQ 2525 Hurstbourne Gem Ln., 491-7570. A ne wish “ concept” of the Orlandobased Dar den chain that runs Oliv e G arden, Red L obster and Bahama Br eeze, this hot Hurstbourne spot off ers good ribs in a nois y

VINCE S TATEN’S OLD TIME BARBEQUE 13306 W. US 42 , 2 2 8-742 7. A uthor V ince Stat en, who literally wr ote the book on barbecue (Real Barbecue), has moved on, but his name r emains on this neighborhood joint out the r oad in Oldham County. $

19TH GREEN PUB & GRILL 1740 W illiamsburg Dr., Jeffersonville IN, (812) 284-9088. $ p f BEEF O’BRAD Y’S 2 39 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 542 32 2 , 562 8 Bar dstown Rd., 2 39-2 2 2 6, 10000 Brownsboro Rd., 32 7-8881, 3101 S. Sec ond St., 637-3737, 105 LaF ollette, 9 2 3-1316. If y ou think your basic sports pub is only suitable f or guy s guzzling beer, tak e another look: Beef O’Br ady’s puts the “family” in “family sports pub,” offering a wholesome environment. $ BENTLEY’S SPORT S BAR & GRILLE 2 52 9 W .

Broadway, 77 8-8886. T he f amiliar r ange of bar and grill f are and libations will mak e the neighbors feel at home in this ne w West End watering hole. $ p BIG D AVE’S OUTPOS T 1801 Bar dstown Rd., 4599142 . No w open in the old house at Bar dstown Road and Speed A venue r ecently v acated b y Judge Roy Bean, Big Da ve’s evokes a hint of the happy memory of the old Fat Cats that once held court her e: In similar f ashion, it ’s a casual, laidback neighborhood saloon, wher e libations and simple pub grub are the order of business. $ p f e BLUE MULE SPORT S CAFÉ 10301 Taylorsville Rd., 240-0051. Longtime buddies John O’C onnor and Jim “Mule” Riley talked for years about opening a restaurant and sports bar . Riley died bef ore their dream came true . But no w O’C onnor pr oudly presides o ver this 90-seat casual Jeff ersontown eatery and watering hole, and he has named it in affectionate memory of his friend “Mule .” $ p e BROWNIE’S “THE SHED” GRILLE & BAR 237 Whittington Pk wy., 32 6-9830 . Restaurant o wner and namesak e K eith Br own used t o hos t neighborhood gatherings in a shed at his home .

Now he brings the same sociable c oncept to his pub and eatery. Louisville’s official home for Cincy Bengals fans, Brownie’s may be the closes t thing Hurstbourne has to a Germantown neighborhood saloon. $ p BUFFALO WILD WINGS (BW-3’S) 6801 Dixie Hwy., 935-1997, 3900 Shelb yville Rd., 899- 7732 , 9134 Taylorsville Rd., 499-2356, 3584 Springhurst Blvd., 394-9596, 12 901 Shelb yville Rd., 2 54-9464, 1055 Bardstown Rd., 454- 3635. As much a sports bar as a restaurant, this national franchise chain offers tasty snack -type f are, including the chain’ s trademark Buffalo chicken wings. $$ p f CHAMPIONS SPORT S RES TAURANT 2 80 W .

Jefferson St. (L ouisville Marriott), 6 71-42 46.

Another popular option at the s triking ne w downtown Marriott, Champions pr ovides a fun, casual dining alt ernative with a K entucky sports theme—and a gallery of big-scr een televisions to keep the sports action flo wing as fr eely as the libations and upscale pub grub . $$ p f CHATTER’S BAR & GRILL Pkwy., 961-9700. $$ p f

2 745 S. Hurs tbourne

CRIBSTONE PUB 1202 Bardstown Rd., 459-3339. This tiny Bardstown Road eatery turns a neighborhood www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 71

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bar int o a lobs ter and s teak house , wher e fine seafood and beef is serv ed without pomp or circumstance in a setting so casual that y ou can wear your shorts and T-shirt to dine. $$$ p DELTA RESTAURANT 434 W. Market St., 584-0860.

It’s not quit e as his toric as Gideon Shry ock’s Jefferson C ounty C ourthouse around the c orner, but this popular bar and short-or der spot seems as if it has been a hangout f or la wyers and the courthouse crowd for just about as long as there’s been a Courthouse. $ p DIAMOND PUB & BILLIARD S 3814 Fr ankfort Ave., 895-7513. $ p f DUTCH’S TAVERN 3922 Shelbyville Rd., 895-9004.

Do y ou lik e guitars with y our grub ? A popular half-way-home hangout f or decades in the heart of St. Matthe ws, this no-frills but all charm pub serves up a hardy plate lunch by day and amps up the action with music by night. $ p e FLABBY’S SCHNITZELBURG 1101 Lydia St., 637-9136.

Family-owned sinc e 195 2 , Flabb y’s is a quintessential Germantown saloon. It’s also one of the city’ s t op des tinations f or ine xpensive do wnhome eats, fr om authentic German dishes t o fantastic fried chicken on weekends. $

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FLANAGAN’S ALE HOUSE 934 Baxt er A ve., 5853700. Gourmet pizzas, hoagies, and an enormous beer selection dr aw Highlands f olks t o this c ozy neighborhood pub . F or a lat e night pizza (the kitchen’s open until 2 a.m.), it ’s one of the bes t options in the city. $$ p FOUR KINGS CAFÉ 4642 Jennings Ln., 968-2 9 30.

Steam-table servic e f eaturing spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and chick en attr act a hungry lunch cr owd at this casual spot, and brunch specialties are just as popular. $ p FOX & HOUND 302 Bullitt Ln., 394-7620. A “British pub” c oncept oper ated b y a W ichita, K ansasbased chain, F ox & Hound’ s fr ee-standing property near Oxmoor C enter f eatures a “midcasual” menu with bur gers, pizza, chick en and pot r oast, in a lar ge v enue with plenty billiar ds tables and an ample supply of lar ge-screen televisions. $$ p f GERSTLE’S PLACE 3801 Frankfort Ave., 899-3609.

A popular St. Matthe ws neighborhood ta vern since 1924. Although dining is secondary to booze and sports here, the food goes well beyond mere pub grub. $ p e

GRANVILLE INN 1601 S. T hird St., 6 35-6475. A longtime gathering plac e f or U of L s tudents, faculty and f ans, this s turdy r edbrick ta vern jus t north of the univ ersity campus off ers a good variety of bar munchies, sandwiches and simple grilled f are plus pizza. It ’s perhaps bes t kno wn, though, for the signature Granville Burger, widely reputed as one of the bes t burgers in town. $ GREAT AMERICAN GRILL 2 735 Critt enden Dr .

(Hilton), 6 37-2 42 4. L ocated in the L ouisville International Airport Hilt on. Salads, bur gers, pastas and sandwiches ar e a vailable f or the casual diner; main entrées include New York strip, filet of salmon and more. $ p f HITCHING POS T INN 7314 F egenbush Ln., 2 394724. In addition t o its full bar and beer gar den, and liv ely c onversation, the Hit ching Pos t Inn offers an arr ay of pub grub , including bur gers, chicken tenders, and sandwiches. $ p HOOPS GRILL AND SPORT S BAR 12205 Westport Rd., 32 7-8002 , 6 733 Str awberry Ln., 3 75-4667.

The name sa ys it all: sports, casual dining and good things to drink all find their natural meeting place in these friendly neighborhood spots where hot wings and hoops reign supreme. $ p f JAKE’S & MR. G’S 10432 Shelbyville Rd., 244-0165 $

p

JERSEY’S CAFÉ 1515 Lynch Ln., Clarks ville, IN, 2 882 100. Quality , aff ordable f are that goes w ell beyond pub grub t o include an a wesome smokehouse burger and barbecued ribs so tender, they say, that you can just tap the end of the bone on your plate, and the meat falls off. $ p e JIMMY AND RICHIE’S 813 Lyndon Ln., 423-7774. $$ p f JP’S PUB & GRUB 5610 Outer Loop, 966-8223. $ p f THE LIGHTHOUSE 2 02 Main St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 83-0077. T his lighthouse has been a beac on of casual, home c ooking and ta vern en vironment f or years. Daily specials, appetiz ers, chick en and fish baskets, salads and desserts round out the menu. $ MACVITTIE’S 106 Sears Ave., 895-2599. An intriguing range of casual, homemade vittles, er , vitties that range from German Jaeger Schnitz el to beef s tew in a bread-loaf “bowl” highlight the bill of fare at this friendly, locally o wned St. Matthe ws spot that f or many years was home to Asiatique. $ p MICHAEL MURPHY’S RES TAURANT 701 S. Firs t St., 587-0013. This full servic e restaurant and bar has accommodated hardy thirsts and appetit es for a couple of gener ations. Despit e the Irish appeal, the food is American and lots of it. $ p NEW DIRECTION BAR & GRILL 2 630 Chamberlain Ln., 243-8429. $ p e P. NUT S SPORT S BAR & GRILL 1506 Lak eshore Ct., 412 -1700. T his ne w w atering hole in Plain view boasts a friendly suburban pub atmospher e, offering bar and grill food with a sports-bar theme.

Check out its Club Oasis for a full array of cocktails and a 2 0-it em beer lis t, and enjo y dining on the oversize deck with r oom f or 140 o verlooking Plainview’s small lake. $ p f e SADDLE RIDGE S ALOON Fourth Str eet Liv e, 56 93507. $ p f e SAINT’S 131 Breckinridge Ln., 891-8883. Almos t like two r estaurants in one , Saints f eatures both a small, intimat e, candle-light ed r oom and a lar ger, happily bois terous main r oom with the look and feel of a sports bar. Saints is mostly about the bars and the music, but don’t o verlook its casual f are, from salads to pasta and excellent pizzas. $$ p e SPORTS PAGE GRILL 3701 Hopewell Rd., 263-7130 $ p e STEINERT’S GRILL & PUB 2 2 39 Charles town Rd., New Albany IN, 945-8827. This is a cross between an old f ashioned neighborhood ta vern (with an aged and cozy ambience) and a trendy sports bar.

Hearty burgers, rich soups, salads, and a full bar make this a hidden gem. $ p e 72 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

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SULLY’S SALOON Fourth Street Live, 585-4100. $$ p f TAILGATERS SPORT S BAR & GRILL 2 787 S. Flo yd St., 6 37-52 41. Billed as a pr emier des tination f or good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’ s Stadium f eatures clas sic American favorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TVs and an expansive game room. $ p f e THE BACK DOOR 2787 S. Floyd St., 6 37-5241. Billed as a premier destination for good food and lots of fun, this casual spot ne xt to Papa John’s Stadium features clas sic American f avorites and seaf ood specialties, plus a full bar , TV s and an e xpansive game room. $ p f VIC’S CAFÉ E. Market St., New Albany, IN, 944-4338. $

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intriguing Ethiopian dishes, including a v ariety of vegetarian selections as well as the traditional beef and chicken specialities. Ethiopian fare is made for sharing and eating with the fingers, but the y’ll gladly make forks available for the finicky. $

#1 A SIAN BUFFET 12 50 Bar dstown Rd., 451-60 33.

Not jus t another in the her d of all- you-can-eat Chinese buffets, this recent entry in the Mid-City Mall seats 350, boasts a private party room, and, says o wner St even Y uan, is the firs t betw eenthe-coasts outpos t of the original #1 buff et in NYC. $$

WINGS N THINGS 2809 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 327-9464. $

A TASTE OF CHINA 1167 S. Fourth St., 585-5582. $

WOODFORD RESER VE BAR & GRILLE Louisville International Airport, 363-2526. Named after local distiller Br own-Forman’s artisanal br and of Bourbon, this is the airport ’s fine-dining f acility, serving K entucky-style dishes in a sit-do wn environment. $

ASIAN BUFFET 3813 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Albany IN, 945-1888, 1305 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 2 85-8888, 3646 Mall Rd., 4 79-9989. C ompetent cookery and car eful management that ensur es buffet off erings s tay fr esh and hot mak es these buffets a good choic e among the gr owing crowd of all-you-can-eat Asian spots. $ p

ZAZOO’S 102 Bauer Ave., 894-8030. If you’re looking for casual dining, ZaZ oo’s offers a mighty appealing option with its laid-back and w elcoming neighborhood bar feeling. The fare is simple but well prepared, and goes a bit beyond pub grub. $ p f e

BLUEGRASS BREWING COMPANY 3929 Shelbyville Rd., 899- 7070, 6 36 E. Main St., 584-2 739, 2 Theater Squar e, 568-2 2 2 4. A mus t-stop destination f or beer lo vers on the national artisanal-brew tr ail, but it ’s mor e than jus t a brewpub. BBC’ s management giv es equally serious att ention t o both liquid and solid f are, making this a gr eat plac e t o s top in f or both dinner and a beer. $ p f e BROWNING’S BREWERY 401 E. Main St. (Slugger Field), 515-017 4. Making beautiful use of the historic r ed-brick building that houses Slugger Field, Browning’s offers brewpub beers plus Chef Anoosh Shariat’s fare that r anges from pub grub to fancier cuisine. $$ p f e CUMBERLAND BREW S 1576 Bar dstown Rd., 45887 2 7. Giving ne w meaning t o the t erm “microbrewery,” Cumberland Brews may be one of the smalles t eateries in t own. It ’s usually pack ed, earning its cr owds the old-f ashioned w ay b y providing v ery good f ood, friendly servic e, and high-quality hand-crafted artisan beers. $ f e RICH O’S PUBLIC HOUSE 3312 Plaza Dr., New Albany, IN, 94 9-2 804. Dec ent pizza and pub grub mak e Rich O’ s a popular hangout, and his r emarkable beer list of mor e than 100 selections fr om around the w orld—and locally br ewed cr aft beers— attracts beer lovers from all over. $ e

CAFÉ KILIMANJ ARO 649 S. F ourth St., 583-4332 .

Café Kilimanjar o sho wcases Black -heritage cuisine, offering well-prepared treats from Africa, the Caribbean and Black America r anging fr om fiery Ethiopian w ots (meat barbecue ) t o spicy Jamaican jerk cuisine to the comforting soul food of the American South. $ p f CHEZ SENEBA AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1215 Gilmore Ln., 968-865 9. Add yet another int eresting ethnic cuisine t o L ouisville’s incr easingly int ernational dining sc ene. Friendly f olks serv e gener ous portions of filling, spicy Senegalese cuisine fr om West Africa in this tiny (three-table) eatery. $ QUEEN OF SHEBA ETHIOPIAN 3315 Bardstown Rd., 459-6301. T he r egion’s only fully authentic Ethiopian restaurant, offering a wide selection of

AUGUST MOON 2 2 69 L exington Rd., 456-656 9.

August Moon’ s secr et ingr edient is the culinary

oversight of Chef Peng L ooi, better known as the force behind Asiatique. Housed in a soaring, open space with a Z en mas ter’s s tyle. C onsistent commitment in the kit chen and fr om the s taff makes it a t op spot f or Asian f are. A lo vely patio at the r ear aff ords an alfr esco dining e xperience overlooking shady Beargrass Creek. $$$ p f BAMBOO HOUSE 4036 Poplar L evel Rd., 451- 3113.

An old-timer among local Chinese restaurants, this Southeastern L ouisville spot ma y not off er the trendiest Asian fare, but it’s a reliable source for the familiar Cantonese-American standards. $ CHINA 1 123 Breckinridge Ln., 897-6511. $ CHINA BUFFET 706 E. Hwy 131, Clarksville, IN, 2888989. Chinese buffets are ubiquitous, but this one is squarely in the upper range. Regularly refreshed steam tables, att entively fried ric e, and pr operly spicy General Tso’s Chicken raise it above the runof-the-mill places typical of the genre. $ CHINA GARDEN 7309 Pr eston Hw y., 968-46 72 . A busy r estaurant with the double pleasur e of Chinese and American menu it ems. $ CHINA INN 1925 S. Fourth St., 636-2020. It’s not the posh, private Faculty Club, but this little Asian spot may be one of the mos t popular eat eries ar ound

taste the difference CONTEMPORARY LOUNGE, OUTDOOR DINING, LUNCH + DINNER WEEKENDS TILL 11:30 P.M. SUNDAY – THURSDAY TILL 10:30 P.M.

An award winning contemporary Chinese Bistro serving lunch and dinner.

Private and corporate dining avaialble.

Reservations recommended.

Exit I-64 at Grinstead Drive Right on Lexington Road 2269 LEXINGTON ROAD www.augustmoonbistro.com

502.456.6569

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the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus. It ’s generally packed with s tudents, professors, and a squadron of campus polic e so lar ge that one wonders who’s watching the campus. $ CHINA KING 3830 Ruckriegel Pkwy., 240-0500. $ CHINA KING Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN., 923-1288. $ CHINA SEA BUFFET 0838. $

12 689 Shelb yville Rd., 2

45-

CHINATOWN 4000 Dutchmans Ln., 896-9888, 4214 Outer L oop, 968-2 688. If y ou’re hungry, y ou can get mor e t o eat her e f or les s than jus t about anyplace else in t own, and the w eekend seaf ood buffet in particular is a deal that ’s hard to beat. $ CHINESE CHEF 2619 S. Fourth St., 634-0979. $ CHINESE EXPRESS 3228 Crums Ln., 448-1360. $ CHINESE RES TAURANT 8605 Pr eston Hw y., 9687450. $ CHONG GARDEN 10341 Dixie Hwy., 935-1628. $ CHOPSTICKS 416 E. Broadway, 589-9145. $ CHOPSTICKS HOUSE 2112 W. Broadway, 772-3231. $ CHUNG KING CHINESE AMERICAN RES TAURANT 110 E. Market St., 584-8880. $ CITY WOK 526 W. Main St., 583-7238. $ CRYSTAL CHINESE 3901 W. Market St., 776-9702. $ DOUBLE DRA GON 12 55 Gos s A ve., 6 35-5656, 318 Wallace Ave., 894-888 7. A s tandout among f astfood shopping-c enter Chinese eat eries, Double Dragon hits on all cylinders, turning out consistently well-prepared and flavorful fare. $ DOUBLE DRAGON II 12480 LaGrange Rd., 241-7766, 9901 LaGr ange Rd., 32 6-0099 , 6832 Bar dstown Rd., 231-3973, 3179 S. Second St., 367-6668. $ DOUBLE DRAGON 8 231 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8686. $

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DOUBLE DRAGON 9 9501 Taylorsville Rd., 267-5353. $ DOUBLE DRAGON BUFFET 2 33 Whittington Pkwy., 339-8897. A sizable buff et in a chic Eas t End shopping s trip, off ers a good r ange of Chinese treats on its all- you-can-eat buffet. The fare seems prepared with attention and care. $ DRAGON GARDEN 2120 Bardstown Rd., 459-3311. $ DYNASTY BUFFET 2 400 Lime Kiln Ln., 339-8868.

The c ontinuing pr oliferation of look alik e, tas te alike, all-you-can-eat Chinese buffets never fails to amaze me. But I’m happ y to report that Dynas ty Buffet ranks well above the median. $$ EASTERN HOUSE 5372 Dixie Hw y., 568-2 688.

Serving Chinese and American f ood fr om the menu or the buffet. $ EGGROLL MACHINE 1216 Bardstown Rd., 459-1259.

A Highlands s taple for good r eason. This portion of the Mimosa Café does a brisk busines s. T he Sesame Chicken is one of our f avorites. $$ p EMPEROR OF CHINA 2210 Holiday Manor Shopping Center, 42 6- 1717. One of L ouisville’s f anciest and most not eworthy Chinese r estaurants, the Emperor’s quart ers ar e s tylishly s trewn acr oss multiple le vels of a f ormer suburban mo vie theater. Outstanding. $$ p EMPRESS OF CHINA 2249 Hikes Ln., 451-2500. Older sister to The Emperor of China, the Empr ess was one of L ouisville’s firs t serious, authentic upscale Cantonese restaurants, and its f are still stands up to fancy spots in New York’s Chinatown. $$ p FIRST WOK 3967 Seventh St. Rd., 448-0588. $ GOLDEN BUDDHA 8000 Preston Hwy., 968-7700. $ GOLDEN PALACE BUFFET 161 Outer Loop, 368-2868. $ GOLDEN WALL 3201 Fern Valley Rd., 968-9717. $ GREAT WALL 2206 Brownsboro Rd., 891-8881. T his Clifton r estaurant r anks high up in the f ast-food

Chinese pack. Offering steaming-hot, competently prepared and flavorful dishes. $ GREAT W OK 2 502 Pr eston Hw y., 6 34-1918. Jus t about every shopping c enter in t own has a f astfood Chinese spot, but this one s tands out, generating a buzz of w ord-of-mouth publicity about its well-crafted Chinese dishes at a bargainbasement price. $ HAPPY DRA GON 2 600 W . Br oadway, 77 8-2 573.

Catering to office and r esidential customers, this Chinese r estaurant has serv ed the W est Broadway community for many years. $ f HONG K ONG CHINESE RES TAURANT 345 Ne w Albany Plaza, New Albany, IN., 945-1818. $ HONG K ONG F AST FOOD 5312 S. T hird St., 36 7882 8. One of the man y int ernational eat eries in Iroquois Manor, this fast-food Chinese spot offers Cantonese s tandards hot and f ast and inexpensively. Check the daily specials f or an occasional intriguing item. $ JADE GARDEN BUFFET 1971 Brownsboro Rd., 893082 2 . Y et another lar ge, shin y all- you-can-eat Chinese buffet, this entry c onverts the spac e last occupied by Babylon into a temple of Asian eats, featuring mos tly Chinese dishes with a f ew American-style items and sushi rolls. $ JADE PALACE 1109 Herr Ln., 42 5-98 78. When I’v e got a hank ering f or brunch, I choose Chinese .

Jade Palace is a decent place for Chinese food at any time , but don’t mis s it at mid-da y Frida y through Monday, when it off ers the metr o area’s only dim sum (Chinese brunch) menu. $$ p JASMINE 1382 3 English V illa Dr ., 2 44-8896. A charming Asian eat ery, wher e y ou can enjo y familiar Chinese-American plates or indulge y our more adv enturous side with a selection of mor e unusual authentic dishes fr om the “Chinese Menu,” available on request. $ f JUMBO BUFFET 2 731 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 950028. Housed in a good-looking dining room, high on Chinatown-style glitz and glitt er, Jumbo off ers a s tandard all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, with a larger-than-average selection of American dishes for those who want something less exotic. $$ KING BUFFET 1801 Priority Way, 266-8886. Another in the gr owing niche of glitzy Chinese chr omeand-plastic buffets, King Buff et offers a s tandard selection of all-you-can-eat dishes. $ KING WOK 291 N. Hubbards Ln., 899-7188. Another of the city’s many tiny shopping-center fast-food Chinese eateries, King W ok offers all the f amiliar standards plus a small lunch buff et. $ LIANG’S CAFÉ 3571 Springhurs t Blv d., 42 5-0188.

Roland Wong, formerly with Emperor of China, is taking over the Peking City spac e in Springhurs t with his Liang’ s Café at pr ess time , k eeping the Chinese fine-dining option open in the Eas t End suburbs. $ LING LING 10476 Shelbyville Rd., 245-2100. Modern and efficient in its Eas t End shopping c enter location, Ling Ling is a cut abo ve f ast-food Chinese; bett er y et, it adds a f ew V ietnamese dishes to the bill of f are. $ LIU’S GARDEN 11517 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9898.

Small but charming, with whit e tablecloths and soft Chinese music, f amily-run Liu’ s gains our approval with fr esh, c ompetent c ookery and courteous, friendly service that makes you feel like you’re visiting a Chinese family at their home. $$ LUCKY HOUSE BUFFET 4030 Taylorsville Rd., 4591188. A fr esh idea on Asian dining, this gener ous buffet serves the menu classics from China as well as some Japanese and American entrées. $$ MANCHU W OK 7900 Shelb yville Rd. ( Oxmoor Shopping Center), 429-8207. $

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NEW CHINA 231 Blankenbaker Pkwy., 254-9299. $ NEW W ORLD BUFFET 92 2 8 W estport Rd., 42 31788. I rate this one of the city’ s best (if not quit e the bigges t) all- you-can-eat Chinese buff et, not only because it offers a good selection of Chinese dishes but, mor e important, because it sho ws a consistent commitment to quality. $ ONION RESTAURANT TEA HOUSE 4211 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 981-0188. Mas terful Chinese and Japanese cuisine (including magnific ent hotpots, donburi dishes, and w ooden-bucket steamed rice) set this airy restaurant apart from the horde of other Asian spots. $$ ORIENTAL HOUSE 4302 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-1017.

One of the oldes t continuously operated Chinese restaurants in Louisville, this St. Matthews landmark moves up a not ch under ne w o wners, f eaturing both tr aditional Chinese- American and no w, authentic Cantonese. $ p ORIENTAL STAR 4212 Bishop Ln., 452-9898. A longtime area favorite in this hea vy traffic lunch ar ea.

This es tablishment is quit e good with L o Mein Noodles, and Sweet and Sour Chicken. $ PANDA CHINESE RES TAURANT 9543 US 42., 2286400. $ QUICK WOK 801 W. Broadway, 584-6519. $ ROYAL GARDEN 5717 Preston Hwy., 969-3788, 6801 Dixie Hw y., 9 37-042 8, 5316 Bar dstown Rd., 4 918228. $ SESAME CHINESE RES TAURANT 9409 Shelbyville Rd., 339-7000. Not jus t another shopping-c enter Chinese r estaurant, this Eas t End eat ery has provided some of the bes t fine-dining Chinese meals I’ve enjoyed in Louisville. $$ p SHAH’S MONGOLIAN GRILL Stonybrook Shopping Center, 4 93-02 34. T hirteenth C entury Mongol warriors used t o turn their s teel shields t o use as frying pans over the campfire, using their swords as spoons. Sahn”s carries their spirit f orward. This allyou-can-eat buffet is fun, and the food is fine. $$ p

BENDOYA SUSHI BAR 2 17 S. Fifth St., 581-0 700.

Adding int ernational flair t o its do wntown neighborhood, Bendo ya Sushi Bar is a genuine , serious sushi bar in a s torefront jus t acr oss the street from the courthouse. $ CAVIAR J APANESE RES TAURANT 416 W .

Muhammad Ali Blv d., 62 5- 3090. (See lis ting under Upscale Casual) EDOYA JAPANESE RESTAURANT 15206 Shelbyville Rd., 2 53-9 312 . T he lo vely old f armhouse out pas t Middletown that was home to such admirable past tenants as Lanai and Trattoria Mattei is now home to a r estaurant again, off ering upscale sushi, authentic wasyoku-style Japanese dining and, on weekends, hibachi-grilled fare. $$$ FUJI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 3576 Springhurs t Blvd., 339-1978, 12 905 Shelb yville Rd., 2 53-00 36.

Part of the fun of sitting at the sushi bar is that you get t o w atch the chef at w ork. P ut in y our order, then sit back, sip y our t ea while the artis t creates edible delights. T his suburban sushi bar does the job well. $$ p ICHIBAN S AMURAI 1510 Lak e Shor e Ct., 4 12 -3339.

This lar ge Japanese-f armhouse building housed Benihana f or man y y ears. Ne w management offers similar delights, with the tr aditional slic eand-dice f ood sho w and good sushi. Bes t deal, while the off er lasts: All-you-can-eat sushi nightly until the karaoke starts at 9 p.m. $$$ p KANSAI J APANESE S TEAKHOUSE 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-9 2 38. T raditional Japanese dishes and sushi ar e available here, but like most Japanese St eakhouses, choose the grill tables with their slic e-and-dice Japanese chef show for maximum entertainment. $$$ p

KIMIS A SIAN BIS TRO 1915 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 2 36-1915. R estaurateur John Chung is amiable host at this ne w Eas t End v enture, an upscale Asian bistro that blends tr aditional Japanese fare with Chinese and K orean fla vors, including such Pacific Rim dishes as sushi, Chilean sea bas s with sweet mango and t orched salmon in par chment paper. $$ p KOBE S TEAK HOUSE 301 S. Indiana A ve., Jeffersonville IN, 2 80-8500 . Southern Indiana’ s first serious Japanese r estaurant is dr awing crowds with its e xceptional sushi bar, with skilled and friendly chefs who can be relied on to fashion fresh and tasty bites that are just about certain to please. $$$ p MAIDO ESSENTIAL JAPANESE 1758 Frankfort Ave., 894-8775. Not jus t another sushi bar , c ool and stylish Maido is L ouisville’s firs t and only “izakaya”-style r estaurant in the s tyle of K ansai, the r egion surr ounding Japan’ s sec ond city , Osaka. It’s also a sake bar, pouring a good variety of artisanal rice wine. $$ f OSAKA SUSHI BAR 2039 Frankfort Ave., 894-9501.

This bright and cheery Japanese r estaurant and sushi bar is named after Japan’s second largest city.

Local sushi aficionados sa y it ’s los t a s tep sinc e the departure of founding chef James Lae, but it’s still a decent neighborhood Japanese spot. $$ RAW SUSHI L OUNGE 52 0 S. F ourth St., 585-5880 .

Raw mak es good use of hip quart ers in a glitzy renovation of the old Marmaduke Building (next to the Seelbach). Diners ma y choose fr om a br oad selection of c ompetent sushi and Japanese f air, plus fine int ernational seafood dishes at dinner , in a sophisticated lounge atmosphere. $$$ p f e SAKURA BL UE 4600 Shelb yville Rd., 89 7-3600.

Located in elegant, upscale quart ers in a St. Matthews shopping c enter, Sak ura Blue—dir ect descendant of the old, popular Bonsai—r anks among the city’s top sushi bars. $$

SHANGHAI RESTAURANT 526 S. Fifth St. 568-8833. $ SICHUAN GARDEN 9850 Linn Station Rd., 42 66767. One of m y f avorite Chinese r estaurants in Louisville and another that has s tood the t est of time, Sichuan G arden offers high-end Chinat own style and w ell-made dishes, plus a f ew T hai specialties to spice up the bill of f are. $ WOK EXPRES S 2 34 W. Br oadway, 583-8988. T his corner spot has housed a v ariety of r estaurants over the years. The latest tenant isn’t the fanciest, but it might be one of the mos t affordable. $ WONTON EXPRES S 3000 Hik es Ln., 45 2 -2 646.

Traditional Chinese f are. F amily-owned-andoperated, this popular neighborhood es tablishment has enjo yed a s teady patr onage f or seventeen years. $ YANG KEE NOODLE 7900 Shelbyville Rd. (Oxmoor Center), 42 6-0800 . T his locally o wned and operated Oxmoor spot is c olorful and s tylish. It offers an intriguing arr ay of appealing noodle and rice dishes fr om all o ver Asia with f ast-food efficiency and pric es happily mat ched b y sitdown restaurant quality and style. $ f YEN CHING 1818 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 491-3581. $ YOU-CARRYOUT-A 1551 E. Tenth St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 88-8313, 82 7 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 282-8881, 3308 Plaza Dr., 944-9866. $

SARI S ARI FILIPINO CUISINE 2 339 Fr ankfort Ave., 894-0585. The city’s sole Filipino eat ery offers a tasty intr oduction t o the Mala yo-Polynesian f are of this Southeas t Asian island nation. Filipino dishes are affordable during the dinner hour and downright cheap on the lunch buff et. $ www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 75

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SAPPORO J APANESE GRILL & SUSHI 1706 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-5550. T rendy, e ven glitzy , with har d-edged indus trial dec or—and mos t important, e xcellent f ood—Sapporo r anks in m y ratings as the city’ s No . 1 spot f or sushi and Japanese fare. $$$ p SHOGUN J APANESE S TEAK HOUSE 9026 Taylorsville Rd., 4 99-5700, 4 110 Hampt on Lak e Way, 394-0123. Shogun’s decor is attractive, and quality f ood and servic e mak e it a pleasant dining des tination. It ’s unthr eatening enough t o appeal t o those who find e xotic cuisine “challenging,” but good enough t o satisfy jus t about anyone who craves a Japanese dinner or a bite of sushi. $$$ p TOKYO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 2415C Lime Kiln Ln., 339- 7171. It ’s appealing, pleasant in atmosphere and friendly in service, and most important, this East End sushi bar serv es excellent Japanese treats, pr epared with car e and flair fr om highquality, impeccably fresh ingredients. $$

ARIRANG 12 567 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-9838. F or many y ears a hidden je wel in the Buechel ar ea, this fine K orean r estaurant-plus-sushi-bar reopened r ecently in the f ormer quart ers of Oriental Express in the Middletown area. $ p ASIAN BBQ & CUISINE 12 07 E. Mark et St., Jeffersonville, IN, 218-9858. An odd but s trangely intriguing mix of K orean, Chinese and American sports-bar fare is the ne w draw in this spot near the Jeffboat f actory that w as onc e home t o the original Rocky’s Sub Pub. $ KOREANA II 5009 Preston Hwy., 968-9686. One of the city’ s f ew r estaurants de voted entir ely t o authentic Korean fare, Koreana is w orth a special trip f or this ethnic cuisine that off ers a hearty , spicy alternative to the more familiar Chinese. $$ LEE’S KOREAN RESTAURANT 1941 Bishop Ln., 4569714. T his little spot has been a secr et sinc e the ’70s, and it jus t k eeps on going. W alk int o what looks lik e a diner in an offic e building, but push past the c ounter t o the back r oom, wher e y ou’ll find gener ous heaps of r eally authentic K orean food for next to nothing. $$ PINK DOOR NOODLES & TEA L OUNGE 2222 Dundee Rd., 2 95-2 441. T his ne w spot r einvents the one-time home of Gibb’ s BBQ in an edgy , high-tech Japanese s tyle, c omplete with a liv e video w all. L ook f or light er Asian f are, noodle dishes and sushi, along with a wide variety of teas, sakes and techno-Japanese cocktails. $ p

MAI’S THAI RES TAURANT 1411 E. T enth St., Jeffersonville, IN, 282-0198. With a broad range of well-prepared and authentic T hai dishes, Mai’ s is the eat ery t o beat among the metr o ar ea’s T hai restaurants. For both authenticity and quality , it ’s right up there with the top Thai places I’ve enjoyed in New York, San Francisco and Seattle. $ SALA THAI 9114 T aylorsville Rd. (St ony Br ook Shopping Center), 493-3944. Fine and fancy, Sala Thai off ers L ouisville an upscale T hai alt ernative, presenting ethnic f are in a s tylish setting that places it among the bes t, and c ertainly the mos t upscale, of the city’s cadre of Thai eateries. $$ p SIMPLY THAI 318 W allace A ve., 899-96 70. Owner Mahn Saing is Burmese; his wif e, a clas sically trained chef , is T hai. T hey’ve beautifully made over this little St. Matthews spot, offering a small menu of tr aditional Thai dishes, w ell-made sushi

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and a f ew upscale T hai-style “fusion” dinner items. $ f THAI CAFÉ 2 2 2 6 Holida y Manor , 42 5-4815. Y ou’ll find this small café tuck ed int o a c orner of the “Holiday Manor W alk.” Owner Cha vantee Sno w and her f amily off er a small but w ell-prepared selection of authentic T hai dishes at v ery reasonable prices. $ THAI SIAM 3002 Bar dstown Rd., 458-68 71.

Louisville’s first Thai restaurant, this Gardiner Lane spot has built a lo yal audienc e o ver the y ears, perhaps r esponding t o its r egular visit ors’ preferences with f ood that ’s a bit on the tame side for Thai. $$ THAI SMILE 5 5800 Preston Hwy., 961-9018. The “5” represents the number of r estaurants in this Frankfort-based mini-chain, which has r estaurants in K entucky, Tennessee and Indiana. T he “Smile” represents my reaction to its simple but very well prepared T hai f are. Don’t ask f or the fiv e-chilepepper heat unless you really mean it! $ THAI TASTE 1977 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 7-7682 . T he owner-host of this friendly , casual spot in Crescent Hill had a r estaurant in Bangk ok before moving t o L ouisville, and his e xperience sho ws.

The w armth of his w elcome—and the quality of the food—make Thai Taste special. $

ANNIE CAFÉ 308 W. Woodlawn, 36 3-4847. Annie Café r anks not jus t as one of m y f avorite Vietnamese restaurants, but one the city’s best of any variety, particularly when v alue and pric e are taken into account. Authentic Vietnamese food is made with care and served with pride. $ BASA MODERN VIETNAMESE 2244 Frankfort Ave., 896-1016. R estaurateurs Michael and St even Ton add a ne w dimension t o Louisville’s Asian dining community as Basa brings a sleek and upscale “fusion” blend of V ietnamese and w orld culinary influences t o the Clift on c ommunity’s r estaurant row. Opening in February. $$ p CAFÉ MIMOS A 12 16 Bar dstown Rd., 458-2 2 33.

Dating back t o the ‘80s as the city’ s first serious restaurant in the Fr ench-Vietnamese tradition, its current management s till offers a short selection of good Vietnamese food plus Chinese-American fare, as w ell as one of the city’ s more interesting sushi bars. $ p LEMONGRASS CAFÉ 1019 Bardstown Rd., 238-3981, 11606 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-7110, 106 F airfax A ve., 893-7757. L emongrass Café off ers an appealing blend of V ietnamese, T hai and Chinese f are in a simple setting that tr anscends an ob viously lo w budget with style and grace. $ PHO BINH MINH 6709 Str awberry Ln., 3 75-92 49.

Tiny and lo vably c ozy, this six -table South End spot is true authentic V ietnamese, and so are the proprietors. T here’s some language barrier , but the owners are so friendly, and the food so good, that it’s worth the effort if you love real Asian fare and inexpensive prices. $ VIETNAM KIT CHEN 5339 Mitscher A ve., 36 3-5154.

This little South End s torefront is w ell w orth seeking out. T he chef goes be yond the or dinary, preparing authentic Vietnamese dishes of unusual subtlety and flavor. I have yet to be disappointed with the quality of the f ood or service. $ ZEN GARDEN 2 2 40 Fr ankfort A ve., 895-9114. A vegetarian restaurant must pass one simple t est: at the end of the meal, I mus t not miss meat. Zen Garden pas ses this t est with flying w ok and chopsticks. $ f

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BEHAR CAFÉ 5600 National T urnpike, 368-5658.

This shopping-c enter s torefront has bec ome a popular aft er-work gathering spot f or the city’ s growing c ommunity of immigr ants fr om Bosnia, for whom it ’s a c omfortable place to get a drink, a sausage, and feel at home. $ BOSAN-MAK 382 5 Old Bar dstown Rd., 456- 1919.

Friendly and e xceptionally hospitable , f amilyowned BosnaMak c elebrates the heritage of the owners and chefs in Bosnia and Macedonia in the Balkans and picks up a f ew culinary additions from their time in German y. $ f DJULI 5312 S. T hird St., 368-5199 . Bosnian f are is the specialty in this tin y spot in the incr easingly international culinary smor gasbord at Ir oquois Manor shopping center. Bosnian immigrants appear to be the primary clientele, but everyone’s welcome to discover this hearty Yugoslavian cuisine. $

ERIKA’S GERMAN RESTAURANT 9301 N. Hurstbourne Pkwy. 4 99-882 2 . F or a city with a s trong German heritage, L ouisville is w oefully short on authentic German r estaurants, but this genuinely Germanic eatery attracts hungry crowds to Hurstbourne. Take care not to miss its former fast-food quarters just off I-64 local access ramp. $$ GASTHAUS 4812 Brownsboro Center, 899-7177. The Greipel f amily c omes s traight fr om Ba varia t o Eastern Louisville with Gasthaus, a destination for local lovers of Germanic f are. T he setting has as authentic a f eeling as the hearty and delicious German dishes here. $$$

BRENDAN’S 392 1 Shelb yville Rd., 895- 12 12 . Owners Tom O’Shea (also of Flannigan’ s and O’Shea’ s in the Highlands) has done a gr eat job of endo wing this old St. Matthe ws saloon with an upscale f eel, gourmet-style dining options and a v ery popular bar. $$ p e IRISH ROVER 2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544, 117 E. Main St, LaGr ange, 2 2 2 -2 2 86. A w arm and welcoming pub with an authentic Irish accent, this is a delightful plac e for a tall glas s of Guinnes s, a snack and a bit of Irish music. I r ecommend the fish and chips. $ p f MOLLY MAL ONE’S 933 Baxt er A ve., 4 73-12 2 2 . A carefully c onstructed r eplica of a modern urban Irish pub, Molly Malone’s is worthy addition to the city’s eating and drinking sc ene, as authentically Irish as the Wearin’ o’ the Green. $$ p f e O’SHEA’S TRADITIONAL IRISH PUB 956 Baxt er Ave., 589-7373. A steady schedule of music, and an as sortment of beers ma y be tr aditionally Irish, but the food here is mainstream American pub grub, from the chees y fries t o the Rueben sandwich. $$ p f e SHENANIGAN’S IRISH GRILL 1611 Norris Pl., 4543919. Not just a neighborhood tavern (although it’s a fine neighborhood ta vern), Irish-ac cented Shenanigan’s goes an extra step with an estimable selection of memorable burgers. $ p f e

AMICI´ 316 Ormsb y A ve., 6 37-3167. Restaurateurs Sharon and Sc ott Risinger hos t this in viting Italian-style r estaurant that brings a t ouch of Tuscany to this attractive and historic Old Louisville building. $$ p f

ANGELINA’S CAFÉ 1701 UPS Dr ., 32 6-5555. Y ou don’t ha ve t o be an Italian gr andfather t o pla y bocce, now that ther e are several venues around town f or this amiable game . T he six -court suburban Gotcha Bocce, run by sportscaster Bob Valvano, also houses this casual all-Italian eat ery, with dishes based on Bob’s family recipes. $ BUCA DI BEPPO 2 051 S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 4 932426. Buca di Beppo’s recipe has all the necessary ingredients: huge portions of excellent food served with flair and the Buca sc ene is fun, a c onscious parody of the e xuberant dec or of f amily ItalianAmerican restaurants of the 1950s. $$ p CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL 617 S. Hurstbourne Pkwy., 412-2218. Carrabba’s isn’t y our ordinary suburban shopping-center fr anchise eat ery. T his plac e dramatically exceeds expectations. From warmed bread dishes with quality oliv e oil t o firs t-rate Italian-American fare at reasonable prices. $$ p f COME BACK INN 909 Swan St., 627-1777, 415 Spring St., Jeff ersonville IN, 2 85- 1777. W ith both its branches located in urban neighborhoods, C ome Back Inn looks pr etty much lik e an y other neighborhood saloon. But unlik e mos t L ouisville neighborhood saloons, this one houses a f amily Italian spot that w ouldn’t be out of plac e in Chicago or Brooklyn. $ p FERD GRISANTI 10212 Taylorsville Rd., 267-0050. An East End landmark f or 30 y ears, Ferd Grisanti’s is as comfortable as a close friend’ s home. Friendly and unpr etentious hospitality , the quiet but not staid atmospher e, and the fine Italian f ood prompts the c omment, “T hey do e verything so well, and they make it look so easy.” $$$ p LA GALL O ROS SO BIS TRO 132 5 Bar dstown Rd., 473-0015. This small but attractive Highlands spot in the Shoppes on the Alle y, f ormerly home t o Butterfly G arden (which mo ved nearb y), is no w back in busines s with a casual Italian and Continental theme. $$ f LENTINI’S 1543 Bardstown Rd., 4 79-0607. This 45year-old L ouisville f avorite has had its ups and downs sinc e “Sonn y” L entini retired and sold the business in 2001, but it ’s up now, open again with new owners and a skilled Italian chef. Redecorated in classy but comfortable style, its authentic Italian menu is drawing raves $$$ p f LUIGI’S 702 W. Main St., 589-0005. If y ou think one pizza is pretty much like another, you may not have sampled Ne w Y ork City -style pizza, a tr eat that you’ll find on jus t about e very s treet c orner ther e, but only Luigi’s offers in its authentic form here. $ MARTINI ITALIAN BISTRO 4021 Summit Plaza Dr., 3949797. T he American-ac cented Italian f are at this Ohio-based chain might be a little closer to Bayonne, New Jersey than Florence, but it ’s good, featuring a short but div erse selection of hearty pas tas, pizzas and Italian-style entrées. Martini’s quality has quickly built a loyal crowd of regulars. $$ p f MELILLO’S 82 9 E. Mark et St., 540-99 75. Adjacent t o the locally o wned and oper ated Felice Vineyards on Eas t Mark et, Melillo’ s off ers hearty and delicious home-s tyle Italian- American f are—and you can enjoy it with a glas s of vino. $ p f OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 235 W. Market St., 5811070. One of the original v entures of this national firm. Bright and nois y, it offers well-made if basic Italian family fare and dishes it out for surprisingly low prices. $$ p THE OLIVE GARDEN 1320 Hurstbourne Pkwy., 3397190, 9 730 V on Allmen Ct., 42 5- 3607, 12 30 Veterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 218-8304. The top property of the Orlando-based Dar den chain, Olive G arden no w oper ates mor e than 500 properties and bills itself as the leading Italian

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restaurant in the casual dining indus try. Hearty pastas of all shapes and sauc es, appetizers and combo platters all carry the Italian theme . $$ p PESTO’S IT ALIAN RES TAURANT 566 S. Fifth St., 584-0567. Offic es f or blocks ar ound empty int o this bus tling Italian eat ery f or w eekday lunches featuring hearty platt ers of lasagna, z esty salads, red wine and ic ed tea. On Satur days, the kit chen switches over to a special Persian menu. $ PORCINI 2 730 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8686. An expanded dining room and a stylish alfresco patio facing busy Frankfort Ave. make Porcini’s an even more popular des tination, a plac e t o see and be seen—and, while y ou’re at it, enjo y a drink and a decent Italian-American dinner. $$$ p PRIMO 445 E. Market St., 583-1808. Restaurateur Bim Deitrich has been a leader in the city’ s restaurant scene since the 1970s, and this eff ort may be his best y et. W ell-crafted Italian specialties r ange from pizzas and pasta to steak Florentine, with a fine, all-Italian wine lis t t o go along; all serv ed with panache in sleek quart ers dominat ed b y a towering white-tile pizza oven. $$$ p f RAY PARRELLA’S ITALIAN CUISINE 2311 Frankfort Ave., 899-55 75. Old-f ashioned Italian- American family fare is served up with a w arm and casual welcome at Ray Parella’s, the latest venture of a family that ’s been pleasing locals f or a generation. $ f ROCKY’S IT ALIAN GRILL 715 W . Riv erside Dr ., Jeffersonville IN, 2 82 - 3844, 10 2 06 W estport Rd., 339-0808. Now with a second location in Louisville, this longtime Southern Indiana f avorite earns its popularity with fine pizzas, a good selection of bottled beers and a select choic e of ItalianAmerican entrées, with a great view of the city from its riverside location. $ p f ROMANO’S MA CARONI GRILL 401 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 42 3-9 2 2 0. T he Italian-s tyle menu at this casual, Dallas-based f amily chain includes appetizers, salads, pastas, veal and desserts. Chefs entertain while creating wood-fired pizzas. $$ p SAVINO’S ITALIAN FOOD 8533 Terry Rd., 933-1080. $ SPAGHETTI SHOP 4657 Out er L oop, 96 9-5545, 2 669 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9445400. Bak ed pas ta dishes, subs, salads and appetizers are prepared while you wait. $ STEVE-O’S IT ALIAN KIT CHEN 42 05 W . Hw y. 146, LaGrange, KY, 222-0300. Outstanding pizzas and fine family-style Italian-American dishes make this casual eatery just off I-71 at Buckner w ell worth a special trip out from the city. $ STRATTO’S 318 W. Lewis & Clark Pk wy., Clarksville, IN, 945- 3496. Sam Anderson—kno wn t o locals from his Sam’s Food & Spirits—offers a full dinner menu with ac cents from all Italy’ s regions, plus a good wine lis t t o mat ch. Str atto’s e xpanded 140-seat patio is a popular plac e on summer evenings. $$ p f e VOLARE 2300 Frankfort Ave., 894-4446. The name evokes Sinatr a, pas ta with t omato sauc e and candles in Chianti bottles, but stylish Volare kicks that image up a not ch. Chef Dallas McG arity and host Majid Ghavami are working hard to position Volare as the city’ s t op spot f or sua ve Italian dining. $$$ p f

DE LA T ORRE’S 1606 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955.

From C entral Spain, authentic Cas tilian f ood ranging from tapas t o a memor able paella mak e this Highlands s tandby a unique e xperience reminiscent of dining on a squar e in Madrid. $$$

78 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

LA BODEGA 1604 Bar dstown Rd., 456-4 955. Ne xtdoor t o the e xcellent De La T orre’s Spanish restaurant, La Bodega off ers diners the city’s most authentic Spanish-s tyle tapas bar , f eaturing the small bites originally invented in the out door cafés of Jerez. $$ p f MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Mark et St., 566-0651. (See listing under Mexican) PALERMO VIEJO 1359 Bar dstown Rd., 456-646 1.

This eatery’s name may sound Italian, but is, in fact, Louisville’s only sour ce of Ar gentinian cuisine .

Steaks sear ed on authentic parrillada char coal grills ar e a primary dr aw, but ther e’s e xcellent chicken, seafood and much more. $$ p f

INDIA PALACE 9424 Shelbyville Rd., 394-0490. This longtime local Indian r estaurant, originally on Bardstown R oad and no w housed in this e xoticlooking East End building that has housed a s tring of well-known eateries, is a contender for the city’s top Indian spot. T he expansive lunch buffet is well handled and a particularly good v alue. $$ f KASHMIR INDIAN RES TAURANT 12 85 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8765. One of the city’ s mos t popular Indian restaurants, Kashmir is casual, neither posh nor expensive, and it produces an extensive menu of seemingly authentic Indian f are. $$ f SHALIMAR INDIAN RES TAURANT 182 0 S. Hurstbourne Pk wy., 4 93-8899. Modern and sleek in appearance, modest in price, this restaurant has become the patriar ch of local Indian r estaurants.

With a substantial lunch buffet and a full r ange of dinner items, it has built a lo yal clientele. $ p

AL WATA N 3713 Klondik e Ln., 454-4406. Clas sic Arabic dishes home-cooked by friendly people in a cozy environment. That’s the recipe that makes Al Watan a des tination f or lo vers of fine Middle Eastern fare. $ CAFÉ 360 1582 Bar dstown Rd., 4 73-8694. T he latest in a long series of eat eries in this pleasant Highland’s building off ers an eclectic and international menu, with Southern fried catfish and Indian lamb biry ani in immediat e juxtaposition. You can get it all, diner-s tyle, jus t about 24/7. $ p f JERUSALEM MEDITERRANEAN CAFÉ 1907 S. Third St., 6 35-6767. L ocated jus t off the University of L ouisville’s Belknap Campus, Jerusalem Café speaks Middle Eas tern with a Palestinian ac cent and v ends e xceptionally fine ethnic fare. It adds an exotic hint of the Levant to the storefront space that used to house a branch of City Café. $ f MARRAKECH 1001 Bardstown Rd., 454-4407. This tiny new Highlands spot is strategically situated to offer quick and aff ordable sustenance along the Bar dstown-Baxter ent ertainment s trip. In addition t o the usual Middle Eas tern goodies, look f or a f ew intriguing Mor occan dishes including occasional tagines. $ GRAPE LEAF 2 2 17 Fr ankfort A ve., 89 7-1774. Y et another Middle Eas tern eat ery, y et another good ine xpensive sour ce of f ood on Fr ankfort Avenue. $ f OMAR’S GYRO 969 Baxter Ave., 454-4888. $ PITA DELIGHT S 1616 Grins tead Dr., 56 9-112 2 . T his Near Eas tern eat ery in the Highlands off ers a splendid mix of gyr os, f elafel and other pitabased goodies. $ f

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SAFFRON’S 131 W . Mark et St., 584- 7800. Owner Majid Ghavami has ele vated this Persian (Ir anian) restaurant f ar be yond a mer e ethnic eat ery.

Stylish dec or, an intriguingly e xotic menu, and a level of car eful, pr ofessional servic e w orthy of a white-tablecloth dining room. Saffron’s has added a satellite operation, SAFFRON’S BUFFET, 558 S. Fifth St., 58 7-8679, where you can enjo y Persian delicacies on a quick, aff ordable all- you-can-eat lunch-only buffet. $$$ p

CANCUN MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9904 Linn Station Rd., 327-0890. $ e

SAFIER MEDITERRANEAN DELI 641 S. F ourth St., 585-112 5. You can get s tandard American f are at this w elcoming do wntown quick -eats spot, but who’d do that when y ou can enjo y such appetizing Arabian delights as hummus, mutabal, falafels and the gyros-like (only better) shawarma beef-on-pita sandwich. $ f

EL CAPORAL 7319 Pr eston Hw y., 96 9-9693, 2 2 09 Meadow Dr ., 4 73-7840, 1901 Blank enbaker Pk wy., 515 E. High way 131, Clarks ville, IN, 2 82 - 7174.

Louisville’s growing Mexican-American community has f ostered a happ y tr end: e xcellent, authentic Mexican food. El Caporal bridges the gap between the Latino and Anglo communities. $ p

SHIRAZ MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2 011 Fr ankfort Ave., 891-8854. Offers some of the most authentic Persian (Ir anian) c ooking y ou’ll find an ywhere, Shiraz has grown out of its tiny original location to occupy a bright and colorful storefront in the new Clifton Lofts complex; it s till shines with its chargrilled k ebabs, fine pitas and cr acker-like la vash bread and adds a wider v ariety of Persian delights. $

EL MUNDO 2 345 Fr ankfort A ve., 899-99 30. T his crowded, noisy little Cr escent Hill s torefront offers creative r enditions of Me xican r egional specialties that mak e mos t diners w ant t o y ell “Olé!” T he setting ma y lack the tr endy flair of Rick Ba yless’s Frontera Grill in Chicago , but the f are mines a similar vein and does so nearly as w ell. $ p f

DON PABLOS MEXICAN KIT CHEN 940 E. L ewis & Clark Pkwy., Clarksville, IN, 284-1071. Born in North Texas and no w based in A tlanta, this Me xicanAmerican chain, off ers full bar servic e and a variety of dishes that r ange fr om sizzling f ajitas with portabello mushr oom, beef or chick en t o crisp salads tossed in a fajita shell. $$ p

EL NOP AL 9473 W estport Rd., 32 7-6551, 11336 Preston Hwy., 961-9851, 10500 Watterson Tr., 2665956, 5444 Ne w Cut Rd., 380-844 7. As sociated with the same f amily that runs the smaller El Nopalito, ( or “ the little cactus”), El Nopal (“ the cactus”) off ers similar delicious, authentic and inexpensive Mexican fare in somewhat larger and more comfortable surroundings. $ p f EL NOP ALITO 402 8 T aylorsville Rd., 458- 72 78, 6300 Bardstown Rd., 231-42 49, 2319 Brownsboro Rd., 89 3-9880. T his modes t little eat ery used t o be a Taco Bell, but y ou’ll never find c omidas like this at the Bell! Run b y a f amily from Mexico, it ’s truly authentic and delicious. $ p f EL PASO 700 Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, IN, 2 800032. Several Mexican restaurants have filled this expansive space in the Jeffersonville Ramada Inn; now El P aso offers a Tex-Mex option jus t off the riverfront. $ p f EL REY MEXICAN RES TAURANT 2 918 Hik es Ln., 454-652 0. Although it ’s more Mexican-American than har d-core ethnic Me xican, El R ey earns m y recommendation for tasty fare, cordial service in a

CAJUN KITCHEN 4645 Outer Loop, 964-5200. $ GUMBO A GO-GO 2 109 Frankfort Ave., 896-4046, 10004 Taylorsville Rd., 26 1-7986, 947 Baxter Ave., 454-5507. Serious but affordable Louisiana Creole and Cajun dishes ar e dispensed with a friendly New Orleans ac cent amid bright Mar di Gr as colors at this locally o wned r estaurant’s thr ee eateries. $ f JOE’S OK BAYOU 9874 Linn Station Rd., 426- 1320, 4308 Charles town Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 9482 080. Fine , filling and authentic L ouisiana-style fare is the dr aw at Joe’ s. A length y menu and bayou fishing-shack dec or sho wcases authentic Cajun and Creole chow. $$ p

BAHAMA BREEZE 104 Oxmoor C ourt, 423-9040.

It’s a long w ay fr om Oxmoor C enter t o the Florida K eys, but this chain-oper ated eat ery does a good job of bridging the gap , offering a happy beach-joint experience without the ocean view. Bahama Breeze is stylish and upscale, with a good selection of island f are and a gr eat bar. $$ p f e HAVANA RUMBA 4115 Oechsli Ave., 897-1959 A true taste of Old Ha vana. Hos ts F ernando & Chris tina Martinez and Mar cos L orenzo pr eside o ver this bright, in viting Cuban r estaurant, r ecently renovated t o double its dining spac e and add a hopping mojit o bar. Bountiful servings of Cuban fare as good as I’ve enjoyed in Key West or Miami have earned Ha vana Rumba a plac e on m y short list of local f avorites. No w with an e xpanded menu, there is even more to love. $ p f TASTE OF J AMAICA 2 017 Br ownsboro Rd., 8961055. This stylish space in Clifton has a new ethnic flavor, thanks to co-owner Warren Glave, who has returned authentic Jamaican cuisine t o a city t oo long starved for a taste of jerk chicken, curry goat and other such Caribbean goodies. $

BAZO’S FRESH MEXICAN GRILL 323 Wallace Ave., 899-9600. Baz o’s Fr esh Me xican Grill is an inexpensive, casual spot where you’ll find the best fish tacos this side of San Diego as the highlight of its simple fast-food Mexican fare. $ f www.foodanddiningmagazine.com Winter 2007 79

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pleasant f ast-Mexican-food en vironment, and affordable prices. $ f EL RODEO MEXICAN RES TAURANT 9070 Dixie Hwy., 995-8722. At El Rodeo, you’ll find a blend of Tex-Mex and other Latin American clas sics fr om salty margaritas to sweet sopapillas. $$ EL TARASCO 6100 Cr estwood Station, 2 41-2 32 0, 542 5 Ne w Cut Rd., 368-562 8, 110 F airfax A ve., 895-8010, 9901 LaGrange Rd., 326-9373. Add El Tarasco t o the happ y ne w genr e of r estaurants run b y Latinos and off ering authentic Me xican food and atmospher e, but that r each out t o Anglos and mak e it eas y t o enjo y a South-ofthe-Border culinary adv enture without compromise. $ EL TORO MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1810 Hurstbourne Parkway, 4 91-72 72 . One of the t op Me xican restaurants in the metro, El Toro earns my recommendation f or f ood, servic e and en vironment.

Tex-Mex dishes ar e fine , but sa ve r oom f or the authentic Mexican seafood specialties. $ p f ERNESTO’S 10602 Shelb yville Rd., 2 44-8889, 62 01 Dutchmans Ln., 89 3-92 97, 77 07 Pr eston Hw y., 962 -5380, 46 32 A S. Hurs tbourne Pk wy., 7 00 Riverside Dr ., Clarks ville, IN, 2 80-00 32 . One of the firs t of the mor e authentic locally -owned Mexican r estaurant gr oups, Ernes to’s r emains consistently reliable. From the crisp y home-fried chips t o filling Me xican main c ourses and tas ty desserts, it ’s a w orthy des tination f or good Mexican food and excellent value in an enjoyable atmosphere. $ p f e FIESTA TIME MEXICAN GRILL Dr., 425-9144. $ p

1132 0 Maple Br ook

HABANEROS 1415 Br oadway, Clarks ville, IN, 2 808555. T his lar ge, c olorful Me xican r estaurant is becoming a Southern Indiana des tination because they do just about everything right, from excellent f ood, of c ourse, t o c old, o versize margaritas and delicious guacamole made fr esh for you at tableside. $ p f e KY T ACO 6911 Shepher dsville Rd., 962 -85 2 6.

Traditional Mexican fare from the Ramirez family. $ LA BAMBA 1237 Bardstown Rd., 451-1418. La Bamba boasts of its “burritos as big as your head.” It may be L ouisville’s mos t s tartling case of an eat ery that is more than it appears t o be, and that goes for both quality and quantity. Franchised and fastfoodish, it pleasantly surprises with genuine Mexican fare and Latino flair. $

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restaurants in Louisville, this little storefront offers memorable tacos and burritos and more. $ p LOLITA’S TACOS 42 2 2 Poplar L evel Rd., 459-4356.

This tiny place may look like a fast-food joint, but the f ood is about as authentic Me xican as y ou’ll find. Crisp or soft tac os and burrit os the siz e of paper-towel r olls turn a meal her e int o a r eal bargain. $ f LOS AZTECAS 530 W. Main St., 561-8535, 1107 Herr Ln., 42 6- 3994, 9606 T aylorsville Rd., 2 9 7-8003, 92 07 U .S. Hw y 42 , 2 2 8-2 450. A uthentic Mexican cuisine has bec ome a viable option in L ouisville, thanks to a gr owing immigrant community. With fresh bar and blender off erings, cr eative appetizers and c omfortable seating, L os Aztecas is one of the best, with tasty Mexican dishes good enough to lure us back again and again. $ p LOS CHUBA SCOS 10000 Linn Station Rd., 42 09930. $ p f

LOS AZTECAS “The Best Mexican Food & Margaritas in Louisville” 530 WEST MAIN

502.561.8535 Mon.-Thur. 11am-10pm • Fri. 11am-11pm Sat. Noon-11pm • Sun. Noon-9pm

www.losaztecas.net

LA HERRADURA 615 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN., 2 80-8650. Is it pos sible t o enjo y truly authentic tacqueria cuisine when the management speaks mostly Spanish and y ou speak only English ?

These friendly f olks mak e it simple: a handy bilingual menu and a smiling s taff make you feel at home.$ LA MONARCA 6501 Shepherdsville Rd., 969-7938. $ LA PERLA DEL P ACIFICO 2 840 Goose Cr eek Rd., 339-7670. Y ou ma y w ant t o bring a Spanish phrase book to this East End spot, where English is sometimes t entative. It ’s w orth the eff ort though, f or e xcellent authentic Me xican seaf ood and fish dishes that go w ell be yond taqueria status. $$ LA ROSITA TAQUERIA 2535 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 948-0401, 1515 E. Mark et St., Ne w Albany, IN, 944- 362 0. One of m y f avorite authentic Mexican eateries in the metr o. Offering indoor and out door seating t o enjo y a short, affordable menu of firs t-rate Puebla-s tyle tac os and other excellent Mexican dishes. $ f LA TAPATIA RESTAURANT 8106 Preston Hwy., 9619153. One of the mos t authentic ethnic Me xican

80 Winter 2007 www.foodanddiningmagazine.com

Mexico T ipico has built a lo yal f ollowing in f or good Me xican f ood and friendly , fully bilingual service; now it reaches the East End with a brandnew property in the Middletown area. $ p e PALAPA MEXICAN RES TAURANT & GRILL 2901 Brownsboro Rd., 896- 1599. T he Moorish-looking building that has housed a s tring of r estaurants now sports a bright ne w r ed, whit e and gr een paint job and a ne w tenant, Palapa, replacing the short-lived Marimba. T he la vish, aff ordable Mexican lunch buff et r emains, ho wever, and the south-of-the-border menu is fine. $$ p PUERTO V ALLARTA 42 14 Charles town Rd., Ne w Albany, IN, 945- 3588, 12 5 Quart ermaster Ct., Jeffersonville, IN, 288-2022. $$ p QDOBA MEXICAN GRILL 1500 Bardstown Rd., 4543380, 9 70 Br eckinridge Ln., 7 2 1-8100, 4059 Summit Plaza Driv e, 42 9-5151, 100 Da ventry Ln., 412 -62 02 , 860 2 Citadel W ay, 4 93-9606, 430 2 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y IN, 94 1-9654. T his chain operation boasts five local outlets plus more in L exington and Fr ankfort. F ast-foodish in s tyle, Qdoba edges out its c ompetitors on the basis of variety and interesting salsas, plus sizable portions at a price you can afford. $ f ROSTICERIA LUNA 5213B Preston Hwy., 962-8898.

Tiny and cluttered and very friendly, this little spot on Pr eston looks lik e another tac queria but the specialty, Me xican-style r oasted chick en, tak es it to another le vel, juicy and suc culent and r oasted golden br own. Chick en simply doesn’t get an y better than this. $ RUBEN’S MEXICAN RES TAURANT 1370 V eterans Pkwy., Clarksville, IN. 258-0417. $$ p SANTA FE GRILL 3000 S. T hird St., 6 34-3722. This tiny eat ery in a c entury-old r ed-brick South End storefront near Chur chill Do wns ne ver f ails t o satisfy with genuine Me xican tac os and other simple fare at pric es that will lea ve you plenty of change for an exacta bet at the races. $ SOL AZTECA S 2 42 7 Bar dstown R oad, 459- 7776.

Saul Garcia, who’s been associated with the local chain of L os Aztecas eateries and the short-liv ed Olmeca’s, brings his br and of authentic Me xican fare t o this Douglas s L oop location. F ans of L os Aztecas will find f amiliar food and mood her e in the same affordable price ranges. $ p TACQUERIA LA MEXICANA 62 01 Pr eston Hw y., 969-4449. T he tac os ar e fine at this tin y storefront, ne xt door t o a Latino gr ocery s tore.

This is seriously ethnic s tuff, but Anglos ar e thoroughly w elcome, the s taff is bilingual, and they will happily pr ovide a menu with all the English translations written in. $ TEQUILA MEXICAN RES TAURANT 7803 Old T hird Street Rd., 368-3591. $

LOS INDIOS RES TAURANTE MEXICANO 2743 Charlestown Rd., Ne w Alban y, IN, 94 1-9770, 7 30 Highlander Point Dr., Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 23-2929.

“Why ha ve T ex-Mex when y ou can ha ve Me xMex?” is asked in fun on the serv ers’ T-shirts. This eatery is w ell worth the trip t o Southern Indiana for high-quality Mexican dishes. $ p MAYAN CAFÉ 813 E. Mark et St., 566-0651. Chef Bruce Ucán earned f our-star pr aise f or y ears with his cr eative tak e on Ma yan (Yucatan/Guatemala) cuisine at Ma yan Gyps y.

Now, aft er a brief closing, he’ s back in smaller quarters but the same inspiring cuisine . $$

MOE’S SOUTHWES T GRILL 2 001 S. Hurs tbourne Pkwy., 491-1800, 1001 Br eckinridge Ln., 89 3-6637, 12 001 Shelb yville Rd., 2 45-62 50, 10 2 0 V eterans Pkwy., Clarks ville, IN, (812 ) 2 88-66 37. T he f ood may be mor e f ast-food Me xican-American than authentic South-of-the-Bor der f are, but it is freshly made from quality ingredients and comes in oversize portions, and that’s not a bad thing. $

MEXICAN FIESTA 5414 Bardstown Rd., 762-0840. $

ON THE BORDER 10601 Fischer P ark Dr., 412-2461.

A c ontemporary spin on tr aditional f avorites offers a range of delights from the Ultimate Fajita to mar garitas in a setting that emulat es Old Mexico décor. $$ p f

MEXICO TIPIC O RES TAURANT 6517 Dixie Hw y., 933-9523, 12401 Shelbyville Rd., 645-8778. One of the r egion’s firs t authentic Me xican eat eries,

SALSARITA’S FRESH CANTINA 2 85 N. Hubbar ds Ln., 89 7-532 3. Another entry in the hot “Fr esh Mexican” niche that f eatures gigantic burrit os

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made t o or der. Its c olorful fr ee-standing building houses a sit-in restaurant and an inviting bar. $ f p TUMBLEWEED SOUTHWES T GRILL (17 locations ).

Tumbleweed, which s tarted as a humble Me xican restaurant in Ne w Alban y, e ventually came t o dominate L ouisville’s Tex-Mex niche with c olossal margaritas, gigantic burrit os and spicy chili c on queso. But what s tarted as a sideline , mesquit e grilled steaks, chops, and chicken, has become the main dr aw. T hese da ys, diners ar e mor e lik ely t o dig int o a grilled s teak and bak ed potat o than a burrito. With its Southwest focus, large and varied menu and added wine lis t, “The Weed” still draws diners in droves. $$ p f

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old-fashioned book shop , with c omfortable seating, a good selection of pas tries, and quality coffee from Seattle. $ JOE MUGGS 994 Breckenridge Ln. (Books-a-Million), 894-8606, 4300 Towne Center Dr., 426-2252. $ f MASTER’S INTERNA TIONAL C Bardstown Rd., 495-6484. $ f

OFFEE

4806

OLD LOUISVILLE COFFEE HOUSE 1489 S. Fourth St., 635-6660. $ f PERKFECTION 359 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2180611. $ e SISTER BEAN’S 4956 Manslick Rd., 364-0082. $ f STARBUCKS COFFEE (27 locations) $ f

ATOMIC SAUCER 1000 E. Oak St., 6 37-5399. $ BEAN S TREET CAFÉ 101 Laf ollette Station, Flo yds Knobs, IN, 3003 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 944-6262. Bean Street introduced the Sunny Side to the joys of serious espresso. Like all good coffee shops, the y’re not jus t eat eries, but cultur al hangouts. $ f BUFFALO MADISON COFFEE COMPANY 1203 River Road, 540- 1161, 7 01 Eas tern Blv d., Clarks ville, IN, 2 18-8559, IUS Campus Libr ary, 94 1-2699. These locally o wned c offee shops ar e fine plac es t o enjoy a coffee drink and a pas try. The River Road property shar es spac e with T umbleweed in the city’s beautiful and gr owing R iverfront P ark, offering a splendid river view. $ f CAFFE CLASSICO 2144 Frankfort Ave., 894-9689. $ f

SUNERGOS COFFEE & MICRO-RO ASTERY 2 12 2 S. Preston St., 634-1243. Matthew Huested and Brian Miller used t o r oast their o wn c offee beans as a hobby. Their friends said the y did it so w ell, they should turn pr o—the result is Suner gos C offee, another in the gr owing cadre of espr esso bars in Louisville’s Germantown neighborhood. $

THE BAKER Y 3100 Bar dstown Rd., 45 2 -12 10. Not just a fine bakery but a place where bakers learn their busines s, this e xcellent es tablishment is part of the culinary pr ogram at Sulliv an University. A r ecent renovation adds a t ouch of European s tyle. T he deli option is no mor e, but you can’t beat the quality br eads and pas tries offered here to eat in or carry out. $

CLEO’S C OFFEE AND MORE Caesars Indiana Casino, Elizabeth, IN, 888-766-2648. $

BREADWORKS 362 8 Br ownsboro Rd., 89 3-32 00, 2420 Lime Kiln Ln., 326-0 300, 2204 Dundee Rd., 452-1510, 11800 Shelbyville Rd., 254-2885. $

COFFEE CROSSING 4212 Charlestown Rd., New Albany, IN, 981-2633, 13825 English Villa Dr., 254-7040. $

COCO’S BAKERY 6915 Southside Drive, 368-9280. $

COFFEE POT CAFÉ 234 E. Gray St. (Medical Tower South), 584-5282 $ f COFFEE TREAT CAFÉ 429 W. Muhammad Ali Blvd., 582-2408 $ DAY’S ESPRES SO AND C OFFEE BAR 1420 Bardstown Rd., 456- 1170. Dark and c ozy, with an old-fashioned f eeling, Da y’s has e verything y ou would e xpect in a c ollege-neighborhood c offee shop except a college near by. $ f DBL SHOTZ 1315 Spring St., Jeff ersonville, IN, 2 82 7000. $ EXPRESSIONS OF Y OU 1800A W. Muhammad Ali, 584-6886. $ f e HEINE BROTHERS COFFEE 2714 Frankfort Ave., 8995551, 1295 Longest Ave., 456-5108, 2200 Bardstown Rd., 515-0 380, 118 Cheno weth Ln., 89 3-5103.

Spartan, friendly and aff ordable, with good c offee roasted on the premises and a short lis t of pastries, desserts and panini sandwiches, Heine Br os. has earned its outstanding local reputation. $ f e HIGHLAND C OFFEE C O. 1140 Bar dstown Rd., 4514545, 62 7 S. F ourth St., 540-9909 . Off ering tw o ways t o get wir ed, this c ozy neighborhood c offee shop also functions as one of L ouisville’s t op Internet cafés, wher e y ou can enjo y a hot cappuccino while y ou surf the ‘net in a W iFi hot spot. Funky Seattle-style ambience is a plus. $ f THE HOBKNOBB RO ASTING C O. 3700 P aoli Pik e, Floyds Knobs, IN, 9 2 3-1458. HobKnobb off ers fresh hot coffee, espresso drinks and fresh baked pastries, cakes and cookies. $ f JAVA BREWING COMPANY 9561B US Hwy 42, 2922 710, 516 W . Main St., 568-6 339, 135 S. English Station Rd., 489-56 77, F ourth Str eet Liv e, 56 12 041, 2 309 Fr ankfort A ve., 894-8060 . T hese casual spots boas ts the ambienc e of a friendly

DESSERTS BY HELEN 2210 Bardstown Rd., 451-7151, 92 19 US Hw y. 42 , 2 2 8-8959 . Helen Friedman has earned a lo yal client ele sinc e the 19 70s with her elegant cak es, t empting pies and t ortes and designer cookies. $ HEITZMAN TRADITIONAL BAKER Y & DELI 9426 Shelbyville Rd., 426- 7736, 428 W. Market St., 5842437. The Heitzman f amily has been baking in the Louisville ar ea sinc e y our gr eat-aunt w as a girl ordering dinner r olls. Made fr esh daily , the pies, cakes, cookies and specialty pas tries provide tasty nostalgia for all who visit. $ MY FAVORITE MUFFIN 3934 Taylorsville Rd., 4850518, 9800 Shelb yville Rd., 42 6-9645. All the muffins are made right in the store, including such popular choices as the Cinnamon Crumb and the Turtle Muffin. $ PLEHN’S BAKERY 3940 Shelbyville Rd., 896-4438.

A neighborhood institution, this bakery is as busy as it is nos talgic. Enjo y the homet own soda fountain with ic e cr eam while y ou w ait f or y our hand-decorated birthda y cak e, br eakfast r olls or colorful cookies to be boxed. $ SWEET SURRENDER 1416 Bardstown Rd., 458-6 363.

Some of the city’ s bes t des serts and pas tries ar e available at this firs t-rate pas try shop . Now under new management, it hasn’t mis sed a s tep in the transition. $ THE SWEET TOOTH 3110 Frankfort Ave., 895-4554.

You’ll find an enticing c ollection of cak es, pies and other homemade goodies, plus e xcellent coffee and a selection of loose-leaf t eas, in this cozy little spot betw een Cr escent Hill and St. Matthews. $

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MAP INDEX

MAP INDEX

MAP # DIRECTION PAGE # DOWNTOWN 84 1 Downtown Louisville NEAR EAST 85 2 Highlands – Crescent Hill EAST 86 3 St. Matthews SOUTH EAST 87 4 Hikes Point – Buechel EAST 88 5 Hurstbourne N. – Lyndon SOUTH EAST 89 6 Hurstbourne S. – Jeffersontown NORTH EAST 90 7 River Rd. – Brownsboro Rd. NORTH EAST 90 8 Westport Rd. FAR EAST 91 9 Middletown NORTH EAST 91 10 Prospect SOUTH EAST 91 11 Fern Creek SOUTH 92 12 Airport – Okolona SOUTH WEST 93 13 Shively – Pleasure Ridge Park INDIANA 94 14 New Albany – Floyds Knobs INDIANA 95 15 Clarksville INDIANA 95 16 Jeffersonville

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MAP INDEX

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DOWNTOWN > DOWNTOWN

MAP • 1

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MAP • 2

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NEAR EAST > HIGHLANDS/CRESCENT HILL

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EAST > ST. MATTHEWS

MAP • 3

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MAP • 4

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SOUTH EAST > HIKES POINT/BUECHEL

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EAST > HURSTBOURNE N./LYNDON

MAP • 5

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MAP • 6

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SOUTH EAST > HURSTBOURNE S./JEFFERSONTOWN

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MAP

7 > NORTH EAST > RIVER RD./BROWNSBORO RD. MAP

8 > NORTH EAST > WESTPORT ROAD

MAPS • 7 • 8

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MAP

11 > SOUTH EAST > FERN CREEK

MAPS • 9 • 10 • 11

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9 > FAR EAST > MIDDLETOWN 10 > NORTH EAST > PROSPECT

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MAP MAP

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SOUTH > AIRPORT/OKALONA

MAP • 12

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MAP • 13

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SOUTH WEST > SHIVELY/PLEASURE RIDGE PARK

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INDIANA > NEW ALBANY/FLOYDS KNOBS

MAP • 14

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15 > INDIANA > CLARKSVILLE

MAPS • 15 • 16

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MAP

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16 > INDIANA > JEFFERSONVILLE

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MAP

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louisville • 424 south 4th street located at 4th street live! phone: 502-568-2202 • hardrock.com

©2007 Hard Rock Cafe International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Since 1982, our passion for teaching has produced some of the finest chefs, cooks, pastry chefs, catering professionals and hotel & restaurant managers in the country. With 100% graduate employment since the beginning, the ingredients are here for an exciting, rewarding career. Give us a call to see what we can do for you!

LOUISVILLE CAMPUS 3101 Bardstown Road • Louisville, KY 40205 (800) 844-1354 www.sullivan.edu LEXINGTON CAMPUS 2355 Harrodsburg Rd • Lexington, KY 40504 (800) 467-6281 www.sullivan.edu

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