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FEMME MAGAZINE | OCT ISSUE 163 | FMLIFESTYLE.COM

Sisters sharing wardrobes Autumn fashion special High heels history


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WELCOME Don’t surrender to fear and love yourselves, says Sean Patrick Sullivan in his article on page 17. And what better time to embrace ourselves than during the change from a sizzling summer to a balmy autumn with wintery overtones? That’s exactly what we do in this issue of FM – we treat ourselves to this season’s hottest trends and give some love to stylists, photographers and models who give the fashion industry its ever-changing sheen.

physiotherapist by profession, she first took up a camera some two decades ago and hasn’t put it down since. We also dress up in this season’s hottest trends. Kira Drury falls in love with leather and lace, moody florals and cinched waists while our trend report showcases the colour purple, simple silhouettes and beautiful brocade. And since no outfit is complete without accessories and a show-stopping pair of shoes, we showcase Rebecca Scicluna’s jewellery collection while Mariam Awad walks in the footsteps of high heels through history. Read on and enjoy.

Photographer Kris Micallef w: www.krismicallef.com

In our first issue of the season, we meet Ana Mikic D’Apuzzo, a Swiss-based designer who has combined her love of architecture, art and fashion into an exciting collection. We also meet photographer Antonella Muscat – a

Photographer’s assistant Nicky Scicluna Stylist Kira Drury Hair Mikaela Borg Barthet Make-up Diandra Mattei Model Chanelle @ models.com.mt wears Orsay beige top, €17.95 / Tally Weijl drophem skirt, €19.95 / Parfois chunky necklaces, €14.90 each / Gauda Sliema heelless platforms, €29.00 / tights, stylist’s own

CONTENTS

October 2012

9 My body, my fashion

Romina Farrugia meets designer Ana Mikic D’Apuzzo, who has transformed scans of her body into a new fashion collection.

13 The muse

Harriet Cohen has just released her haunting new single India. Daniela Brockdorff meets the girl behind the stage name.

17 Fitness, fanaticism and femininity: observations from a gymnasium All too often, exercise – much like fashion – becomes its own gilded cage. Sean Patrick Sullivan suggests an alternative: rejecting the idea there’s anything wrong with you in the first place.

21 Hey sister

Sisters may fight and bicker, but they also get to share wardrobes. Christina Goggi is jealous.

27 All that glitters

Rebecca Scicluna finds vintage inspiration to create her jewellery, says Maria Michela Formosa.

29 Well-heeled

COVER CREDITS

Mariam Awad walks down the memory lane of high heels.

33 Style stalker

Girls just want to have autumn fashion fun, says Kira Drury.

45 The dark arts

This season’s fashion is a grown-up combination of brocade, mannish shoulders and simple silhouettes. Look hot in the cold with FM.

49 Street style

Romina Farrugia watches the last summer street catwalk at the Locarno Film Festival.

51 A fashionable lesson Lara Boffa goes back to school on a budget.

Editor Anthony P. Bernard Email: anthony@fmlifestyle.com Consulting Editor Stanley Borg Email: stanley@fmlifestyle.com Design & Art Direction Porridge | www.weareporridge.com Email: hello@weareporridge.com Printing Progress Press All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited without written permission. Opinions expressed in FM are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth and accuracy, but the editor and publishers cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in articles, advertising, photographs or illustrations. Unsolicited manuscripts are welcome but cannot be returned without a stamped, self-addressed envelope. The editor is not responsible for material submitted for consideration.

55 All the world’s a catwalk

For model Daniela Darmanin, representing Malta at the Miss World finals was an unforgettable adventure.

57 What I know about style Don’t be afraid to be yourself, says Gayle Zerafa Cutajar.

58 Capturing moments Curiosity made Antonella Muscat a photographer.

For any information regarding editorial, promotion or advertising contact Tel: 00 356 2131 8522 00 44 20 3286 6373 Email: fm@madmediainternational.com FM is published by MADMEDIA International, Mezzanine West, Hadfield House, Library Street, Gibraltar and is distributed free with THE SUNDAY TIMES


Fashion

My body, my fashion Romina Farrugia meets designer Ana Mikic D’Apuzzo, who has transformed scans of her body into a new fashion collection.

A

na Mikic D’Apuzzo is a highly talented visual artist living in the Italian part of Switzerland. She researches architecture, art and fashion design. When we meet in her gallery in Ascona, she explains how these three passions have finally come together in her latest project, the Ana D’Apuzzo Collezioni.

RF: If we had to talk numbers, in what percentages would you consider yourself to be an architect, painter and fashion designer?

RF: Do you listen to music while you work on your creations? AP: I listen to waves when I am painting on the lake or to my family talking to me on Skype. When I’m not thinking too much then the final result is less conscious and closer to dreaming.

AP: I cannot quantify or separate myself in percentages because I am all of them together. I find that you learn techniques and that you then apply your knowledge and mix and merge between the different fields to make something creative.

RF: In which countries have you lived?

Like many girls, when I was at school I dreamed of becoming a fashion designer and I started designing clothes at a very early age – however, I started painting even before that. In fact I started painting at the age of two and this passion seemed to appear out of nowhere because no one in my family paints. Then, while I studied architecture, I put fashion on the side. Now I am rediscovering it.

AP: This morning I looked outside my window, saw the lake and thought how beautiful life is. When I wake up I usually start thinking about my projects for that day. I have my own gallery so I am pretty free to organise my schedule. I usually have a small breakfast and start painting. I paint a little every day. After that I go to my gallery.

Nevertheless, the clothes you see hanging in my shop today would not have been possible without my knowledge of architecture and as for art, it is a passion that will never die.

AP: I cannot say people and nature alone because they are part of life and my subjects would have to be moving not like still lifes. I can say that I am inspired by movement, light, shadow and life in general.

All the things I love doing fall under the category of applied arts and all have to do with the body and the space around that body. RF: What was your first thought when you woke up this morning?

RF: What inspires you?

RF: Do you have a favourite colour? AP: My favourite colour is white, both on its own, as light, and as a combination of all the colours because in truth I love all colours.

AP: I have lived in Portugal, Poland, Japan, UK, in my home country, exYugoslavia and then in Switzerland. Here, I first lived in Zurich and then we moved to Ticino because it is warmer and sunnier. RF: Which city do you consider to be your favourite fashion capital? AP: I know that it is not usually considered to be a fashion capital but I must say that I find Tokyo fascinating and revolutionary and that its spirit is connected to architecture. Design is clean and the people are very sensitive. RF: I know that this is not your first attempt at fashion design. Tell me about your earlier experiences. AP: I started designing clothes when I was in school. I used to hang my designs on the classroom walls and they were such a success that the little girls in my class were actually taking them off the wall and home with them.

FM October 2012 - 9


Fashion

Where the streets have a name When I was in high school I took a professional sewing course and after that I started making some clothes. After high school I went to Portugal to study art but also got a hands-on experience at my aunt’s studio where I learnt about fashion and life. I then created a sportswear line and sold it in the former Yugoslavia. I did nothing for a while and then in 2009, I participated in the seventh edition of the Vienna RingstrassenGalerien Designer Award – I drew inspiration from the great Coco Chanel and chose black and white as my theme. At that time I was already an architect and my dress was inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s architecture. I was ecstatic when I learnt that I was a finalist and that my designs would be published on the Not-Just-A-label website. RF: How did the idea to design these clothes come about? AP: The idea for these clothes simmered for quite a while. I used a 3D body scanner to scan myself. I then put these images in the computer and through a special programme used in architecture, I designed the background for these faces and created 3D videos. After this I decided to freeze some of these moments and print them on Plexiglas. The 3D video and the digital prints were shown last year in an exhibition in my studio and also in Tokyo during a conference on body scanning. I had taken my physical image and transformed it into a digital one and then I started to question, what would happen if I were to do the reverse? What if I were to transform the digital image into something physical again? These clothes are the result of this

10 - FM October 2012

reflection. It took me some time but after one year I found a Spanish company that could print the 3D designs on fabric. I saw the prototypes and could not wait to feel the fabric. RF: What happened when you received the fabric?

will be presented at the ASVOFF Film Festival (A Shaded View on Fashion) at the Centre Pompidou in Paris, this November. To view Ana Mikic D’Apuzzo’s collection visit www.notjustalabel.com/ anadapuzzo and www.anadapuzzo.com

AP: At first I had thought of designing clothes that were inspired by Japanese kimonos as regards their shape but not in their colour because the Japanese would never wear such colours – I had already tested their reactions to the Tokyo exhibition. However, when I felt the light, silky fabric I was immediately inspired and started cutting up the fabric and sewing the dresses. RF: What did you feel when the dresses were ready? AP: It was a very big satisfaction. Since it was the first time that I had done something similar everything was a little unpredictable. It was really and truly an investigation of what would happen next. I did everything myself, from the design of the fabric to the final end result represented in the dresses. Though this project is small in scale it is very much in line with what is happening in the fashion world today as machines to produce textiles and clothes become more sophisticated and the process behind their realization more studied. RF: Future projects? AP: Right now I don’t want to make this project bigger than it is yet I am investigating different possibilities for the future since people love the designs. My next fashion project is a short movie that the film director Wang Meng-Ying is doing about my work in fashion. It will be called Vision-3D dream and

Yellow meets red This season Orsay brings you a number of collections each month. Having presented the Modern Preppy and the Smart Business collections, Orsay now introduces the Yellow meets Red collection. This collection is a return to English 1960s classics such as geometrical forms and strong, contrasting colours like shades of orange, yellow and red combined with black and brown. The pop-art style theme fascinates with compact and elastic fabrics, woolen velour, bouclé fabric, lacquer and nylon. Visit any Orsay outlet in Valletta, Birkirkara and Arkadia Gozo to view the collection.


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Music

The muse Pianist Harriet Cohen inspired Bartok and Einstein called her “the beloved piano witch”. But then there’s another Harriet Cohen, who has just released her haunting new single India. Daniela Brockdorff meets the girl behind the stage name. Photos by Gail Baldacchino

S

ome of you may have heard of Harriet Cohen, the British pianist who inspired the 20th century greats. Others might have heard of another Harriet Cohen, the stage name of budding Maltese artist Deborah Borg Brincat. Well, if you haven’t yet heard of both, Wikipedia and Facebook will here come in handy. If you look up Harriet Cohen on Facebook you can listen to Deborah Borg Brincat’s amazingly haunting first single India. Deborah’s music career goes back a long way – music has always been an integral part of her life. She started taking piano lessons at the tender age of six and then singing lessons when she turned 14. In 2008, it was time to apply all that she had learnt across the years and so she got together with a couple of friends to form part of the local band, Bletchley Park. Together they have worked hard, persevered, and recently released the album My Body Fighting. So where does Harriet Cohen feature in all of this? Still a member of Bletchley Park, Deborah decided to work on a solo project earlier this year and wrote India, a intriguing single which, with its hushed tones still sends out a loud message against animal cruelty, particularly in circuses all around the world. This solo project, Deborah tells me, is dedicated to Harriet Cohen.

Deborah adopted ‘Harried Cohen’ as a stage name because as part of her musical studies, she worked on Bartok’s Bulgarian Dances, which were also dedicated to Harriet Cohen. Harriet’s life as a pianist, with her endless efforts to raise awareness on the plight of Jews at the time, struck Deborah’s imagination. Through her single India, Deborah wants people to get to know more about what Harriet went through. Also, Harriet Cohen’s life and music were an inspiration to many, notably Albert Einstein – similarly, Deborah wants her music to be an inspiration to others as well. And I have no doubt that India will indeed be so. Deborah’s particular style in music mirrors her equally singular style in clothes. I ask her whether Harriet Cohen has also stirred her choice of style. “No, my style is independent of Harriet Cohen the pianist,” Deborah admits. Yet, she goes on to add that from the photos she has seen, the lace and flowing sleeves and dresses that Deborah likes to wear also feature in Harriet’s clothing style. Deborah speaks of style rather than fashion. She is no slave to fashion but she does believe that style is key in order to stand out. She describes her style as a mix of everything but as mostly feminine.

FM October 2012 - 13


Music

“I rarely wear trousers,” she tells me, “especially in winter when I live in tights. I also do my best to combine clothing items that are less conventional – I want to have fun dressing up.” Deborah also tells me that she thinks an androgynous style is very feminine in its masculinity. “Bows and collars are probably the main features in my wardrobe, and I also like to experiment with bold colours and more eccentric outfits.” Deborah has always given style its fair share of importance as she believes it defines her as an individual and allows the scene to be set for those who want to get to know her. “Hopefully, my style communicates positive things, but the most important thing is that I am happy with it.” I ask Deborah whether she has any fashion icons. Although she doesn’t, she likes Welsh singer-songwriter Marina Diamindis’ style as well as that of Florence Welch, lead singer of the band Florence and the Machine. However, for Deborah, a performer’s style can never overshadow the music being played. “I hope that it will never be more important than the music,” she replies, “but it is rather significant.” Ideally, Deborah believes, the style should complement the performance and what it is trying to portray. She tells me that even though both are aspects of her style – she distinguishes between outfits for performing with Bletchley Park and those for performing as Harriet Cohen – simply because she believes that the style should always harmonise with the music.

I

n the music video for India, Deborah wears a flower print, nude-tone, button-up dress with a black floppy bow tied at a peter pan collar and a thin black belt at the waist. She tells me she bought this dress from London and chose to wear it because of its simplicity and for the way it complements the mood of the song. Subtle yet poignant.

I also do my best to combine clothing items that are less conventional – I want to have fun dressing up.

14 - FM October 2012

Deborah’s style in her Harriet Cohen project is unique, both when it comes to clothing and also, of course, when it comes to music. Her keen penchant for experimenting with style makes our local Harriet stand out from the crowd. Albert Einstein once spoke of the British Harriet Cohen as “the beloved piano witch”. Let’s hope our own Harriet Cohen continues to enchant us with her music.


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Lina Williams, elite group-exercise instructor, as photographed by Salina Mitera. Photo courtesy of The BAO Institute For Healthy Living.

Fitness

Fitness, fanaticism and femininity: observations from a gymnasium

Physical fitness is commonly assumed to be an access for women to feel stronger, more self-assured, altogether better about themselves. But all too often, exercise – much like fashion – becomes its own gilded cage. In this provocative essay, Sean Patrick Sullivan suggests an alternative: rejecting the idea there’s anything wrong with you in the first place.

A

lthough it’s often forgotten (or perhaps ignored) by historians of both comic books and physical fitness, one of the many reasons William Moulton Marston created Wonder Woman was to encourage little girls to exercise. This was no small feat in the 1940s. While boys were routinely encouraged by doctors, educators, and parents to play in all sorts of rough-and-tumble ways, girls weren’t quite as lucky. They languished in a hazy interior world of imaginary tea parties, restrictive junior miss fashions, and post-Victorian sugarand-spice residue. They were rarely given opportunities to access, much less know, their own strength or vitality. With Wonder Woman, Marston – a Harvard-educated author, inventor, and psychologist – offered a compelling alternative. To entice young female readers, he equipped his Amazon princess with fairy-tale accoutrements the likes of which are still making Barbie, 70 years later, fume with jealousy: a sleek invisible jet, superpowered tiara, earrings, and bracelets, and an ultra-patriotic, Claire McCardellinspired bathing suit offering a freedom of movement (and a stunning display of toned, proud, muscular flesh) purposely worn as a statement against prudery and restraint.

Once enticed, little girls (including, as it turned out, Gloria Steinem) were informed that Wonder Woman’s superhuman speed, strength, and stamina came not from magic or myth, but rather simply a special form of exercise known as Amazon training. It was a radical gesture and, in the eyes of some, the beginning of the second wave of feminism.

It’s difficult to overstate the significance of aerobics – which, ironically, turned out to be anaerobic – upon the fitness industry. The everso-softly whispered, yet somehow very clearly received, message was the exact opposite of Wonder Woman’s power-tothe-people platform. It went something like this: there’s something wrong with you. And you need to fix it – now.

Over the years, and very much in line with the ebb and flow of women’s rights, Wonder Woman’s original emphasis upon exercise receded into the background, with Marston’s far less politicised replacements explaining away her powers as gifts of GrecoRoman gods. Alas, it would take another American superhero, Michelle Obama, to revive the concept of Amazon training, to shock us with her self-proclaimed right to bare arms, but that’s an essay for another day.

Gone was the old-fashioned idea of body-as-temple, of exercise-asmeditation, of simply becoming a little better every day. Its place was usurped by an adversarial relationship with our own bodies, a war no one can ever win. Accordingly, the word ‘health’ either disappeared from the conversation or became a euphemism for vanity. In its place: an ego-driven, self-loathing, excruciatingly North American vision of women’s fitness that sophisticated European observers (such as yourself) quite rightfully rejected in favour of brisk walks and manual labour.

Meanwhile, the combustible collision of fitness and femininity remained Wonder Woman’s almost-exclusive territory until the early 1980s. That’s when Perfect – starring a defiantly androgynous Jamie Lee Curtis, a revelation of thrusting hips and leotarded thighs – burst onto the scene and kick-started the aerobics craze.

Today, it’s increasingly acceptable to dismiss women who don’t exercise as lazy, lumpy, just not with it, and certainly not getting any (if you know what I mean) either. But, as the director of a fitness-and-wellness centre encouraging patience and intelligence in exercise design, what I’m observing FM October 2012 - 17


Fitness isn’t the rejection of a practice but rather the avoidance of an industry that’s quite frankly toxic, leaving women’s bodies, minds, and souls worse off than before. For women ready to make peace with their own bodies, who want to operate with optimal vitality and who want to be fit and radiant without driving themselves absolutely nuts, what to do? You may want to consider the following ideas. None of them are novel. None of them are radical. None of them are shocking. And that’s precisely the point.

Body beautiful Get a grip It’s really quite simple. When it comes to your body, use it or lose it. The last thing you want is to spend the last few decades of your life trapped inside yourself, tortured by aches and pains that could have been avoided. If you think a life of leisure sounds like a better idea, please rest assured that it is, until your fifth hip replacement.

Vanish your vanity

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18 - FM October 2012

If you don’t like the way you look, do something quick and dramatic to cause a distraction: dye your hair auburn, indulge in an iridescent lip colour, shamelessly adorn yourself with oodles of opulent costume jewellery, or just stop inspecting yourself in the mirror every five minutes. Exercise takes time to work its magic and if you push yourself too fast or too hard, you’re asking for injury.

Resist all extremes It’s lovely that you’ve found your bliss in yoga, a bike or whatever your latest, greatest fitness obsession may be. But true health and safety comes from crosstraining: a balanced mix of strength, endurance, and flexibility disciplines practised over the course of a week or month. Varying intensity, from rageful to restorative, is also important.

Love your body The Amazons of vintage Wonder Woman comics didn’t grow superhumanly strong and lean from whining about their sagging breasts, bulging bellies and jiggling thighs. Nor did they fret over who might be younger or prettier or more likely to get asked out on Saturday night. They loved themselves (inside and out), supported each other (even when playing competitive sports), and exercised as a form of selfrespect and personal development. Most critically, they didn’t surrender to fear. They tried new things, played full out and never worried about looking silly. They were too busy exercising their right to be fit, strong and most of all, healthy.

Sean Patrick Sullivan is the director of education and communication at The BAO Institute For Healthy Living, a North American fitnessand-wellness centre. The author of How To Be Happy (Even When You’re Not), he divides his time between Chicago, Toronto, Montreal and Manhattan.


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Fashion

Hey sist er

Sisters may fight and bicker, but they also get to share wardrobes. Christina Goggi is jealous.

T

he words ‘enough’ and ‘clothes’ never go hand in hand in a girl’s world. So what better situation than to have a sister who fits into your same clothes size and who spends the lion’s share of her budget on the latest fashion and accessories. I wished for a sister throughout my childhood and teenage years simply for that reason. Sadly for me, no stork left my family a baby basket at the doorstep. However, the Mifsud and Ozcan sisters have such a privilege. Both the Mifsud sisters and the Ozcan sisters seem to have a very different fashion sense, and yet they both voluntarily share wardrobes. With a tinge of envy, I discover why.

The sisters Michelle Mifsud 17, full-time student and model Marilyn Mifsud 24, Cruz lead singer 2

1

3

FM How do you feel about sharing each other’s wardrobe?

FM Why do you share each other’s wardrobe?

FM Ever argued over a favourite item you both wanted to wear?

Michelle: Since I’m still a student and my sister works, it’s great for me as I get to borrow more of her stuff and she does most of the shopping. Having said that, our wardrobes bear little in common, but dressing Marilyn up for special occasions means she buys me more clothes so it goes both ways really. Marilyn: People who know me and my style would say I’m a bit androgynous – my instinct goes for comfortable and baggy and I tend to favour black, greys, navy blue and white. My sister, on the other hand, is ultra-stylish, so thanks to her I get to don more feminine outfits and I’ve started to include a more colorful array into my outfits – something Michelle claims I nicked off her. It’s funny how before gigs with the band, I ask my sister for advice on what to wear as she really knows how to combine things, and my band and friends will immediately go, “How nice you look – did your sister dress you up?”

Michelle: It’s definitely more convenient and you will always have more options, even though we have completely different tastes.

Marilyn: Yes, a chiffon in white and a stone studded Bedouin-style dress we both love and Michelle’s shoes. She hates it when I wear her shoes – she would put a restraining order on me if she could. By the way, they’re the shoes I’m currently wearing.

I’m very lucky – she’s my personal stylist.

FM What do you think about each other’s fashion sense? Michelle (laughing): I don’t like my sister’s style, it’s too casual, often inappropriately so, but she can really pull off anything the wears – she simply looks good in anything. Marilyn: I’m pickier than Michelle when it comes to where I buy my clothes from – I prefer quality over quantity so every time my sister brings home another string of online shopping bargains I cringe a little. Having said that, she does know how to pick the right stuff (excluding those polka dots) and she has the natural penchant for dressing up that I will never have. It’s not the first time I end up wearing one of her items – although it would be for work or stage, and I’d wear them differently. That’s when it’s Michelle’s turn to cringe.

Michelle: Or 15! She manages to ruin brand new heels even at a sit down dinner. And to be fair, she hates it when I wear her trousers because she claims I wear them out and ruin their “perfect slim fit” and they’re not good anymore for her – so I get to keep them. FM Do you shop together? Both: We always shop together. Michelle: The minute Marilyn gets her pay it’s a ritual - we dash out and hit the shops. 1: Michelle and Marilyn in their favourite outfits. Marilyn is wearing Michelle’s favourite shoes. 2: Michelle loves these pants. 3: Marilyn’s favourite item (which Michelle hates).

FM October 2012 - 21


Fashion

1 2

The sisters Seren Ozcan 21, full-time student Yeliz Ozcan 13, full-time student

FM How do you feel about sharing each other’s wardrobe? Seren: It’s convenient and I’m happy sharing the same wardrobe with my sister, although she ends up borrowing more of my stuff. Then again, she is very good with matching things so when I see the way she would combine some items I think, “Hmm… that actually looks good,” so she even inspires me.

1: Seren and Yeliz wearing their favourite outfits. 2: Seren, Yeliz and the top they both want to wear.

Yeliz: I love my sister’s style and I think she has the figure for starchy type of dresses and tops. I’m not comfortable with wearing her tight dresses but I really love them on her. FM Ever argued over a favourite item you both wanted to wear?

FM Why do you share each other’s wardrobe?

Seren: The top she’s wearing at the moment. We both love it. And during exams she pretty much takes over the entire wardrobe as I’ll be stuck indoors studying. Then once I’m done from exams I never end up finding my favourite items because she would have chucked them somewhere else.

Both: There’s more variety, we save up and inspire each other.

Do you shop together?

FM What do you think about each other’s fashion sense?

Seren: Most of the time we do as I really value her opinion – if she says something doesn’t look good on me I won’t buy it (well, unless I really like it). When I shop alone on the other hand, I use my sister as an excuse for any clothes I buy which I don’t really need – she saves me the guilt trip.

Yeliz: For me it’s great as I get to have more clothes to choose from and save money as she’s the one who spends the most.

Seren: I like that she goes for different styles and is not afraid of standing out – she truly has a style of her own. Then again it’s a very different style from mine as she’s all for baggy tops, while I like figure-hugging dresses and a more feminine style. Yeliz is also a big fan of lace material which is not really what I go for.

Yeliz: What can I say? I’m lucky and I’m enjoying it till it lasts.

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Jewellery

All that

glitters Rebecca Scicluna finds vintage inspiration to create her jewellery, says Maria Michela Formosa.

T

he girl behind the Through the Looking Glass designs transports us to a world of imagination and creativity. She strings beads, she twists thin metal wires, she makes small bows and uses a variety of colourful buttons – all this patience to make jewellery pieces that are vibrant in colour and intricate in detail. Rebecca Scicluna, a local 19-year old who has been making jewellery for the last year and a half knows exactly what her clients want – they want to look elegant and chic. And they want to look beautiful. MMF: When did you realise you had a flair and a passion for jewellery design? RS: About two years ago I gave birth to a beautiful baby girl. I just wanted to stay at home with her for the first couple of years. I must say that my daughter gave me the chance to evolve my creative side while also finishing my University course. MMF: Why jewellery making though? RS: I must admit, fashion has always been a passion of mine. From a young age, together with my sisters we used seed beads and charms to make amateur jewellery. As I grew older I also tried my hand at several other handmade crafts like sewing. Despite this, I found jewellery-making the most calming and satisfying. MMF: Where do you find inspiration for your pieces? RS: I am fascinated by past eras. Fashion is always changing and every decade fits a new style and a new trend. I get most of my inspiration from the 1920s-1970s decades, and from celebrities of that time like Grace Kelly, Rita Hayworth and Janis Joplin.

“I love giving new life to objects whose potential has been phased out by the speed of consumption that characterises modern society today.” MMF: Which is your favourite piece from your current collection?

MMF: Who is you favourite jewellery designer?

RS: It has got to be the necklace with a cameo pendant and a blue lace bow with a bead pearl detail on one side of the chain.

RS: I will opt for Betsey Johnson. Her designs are very versatile and transcend all ages and body shapes. They also suit any occasion and allow whoever is wearing them to style them according to their fancy.

MMF: What jewellery trends will shine brightly this season? RS: I think this winter we are going to see a lot of statement jewellery that contrast well with plain outfits. Chunky necklaces will project power over simple outfits. Winter trends will also feature great attention to detail, such as the inclusion of cufflinks and collar clips. Collar necklaces and other collar accessories will be the most sought after. Gold was last winter’s must, but this year I think silver will also be magnetic.

MMF: Name three jewellery staples every girl should have. RS: Pearl earrings, a vintage inspired necklace and a charm bracelet. MMF: One piece of jewellery you couldn’t live without? RS: A beautiful chunky statement necklace.

FM October 2012 - 27


F O OT H E A LT H C E N T R E

A

U

T

U

21 245 11

Brand: Gabor Colour: Dusk Size: 36 - 42 Price: €95.00

32 627 47

Brand: Gabor Colour: Black Size: 36 - 42 Price: €90.00

ATLANTIS

Brand: Scholl Colour: Brown Size: 36 - 42 Price: €85.00

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N

2

0

1

46 132 42

Brand: Gabor Colour: Taupe Size: 36 - 42 Price: €100.00

44 114 13

Brand: Gabor Colour: Dark Grey/Silver Size: 36 - 42 Price: €96.00

LONGFORD

Brand: Scholl Colour: Black/Bronze/Silver Size: 35 - 42 Price: €65.00

2

44 111 27 / 73

Brand: Gabor Colour: Beige/Black Size: 36 - 42 Price: €88.00

LIEGI

Brand: Scholl Colour: Beige & White SIZE: 35 - 42 PRICE: €90.00

23 151 54

Brand: Gabor Colour: Copper Size: 36 - 42 Price: €90.00

44 110 12

Brand: Gabor Colour: Stone Size: 36 - 42 Price: €92.00

SOUTHWALK

Brand: Scholl Colour: Taupe Size: 36 - 42 Price: €90.00

04 340 29

Brand: Gabor Colour: White/Grey/Silver Size: 36 - 42 Price: €90.00

schollfoothealthcentre.com Scholl is available from all Scholl Foothealth Centres, leading pharmacies and Abela’s Health & Beauty Centre (Gozo) and Suffolk (Valletta) Gabor is available from all Scholl Foothealth Centres, Abela’s Health & Beauty Centre (Gozo) and Suffolk (Valletta) WHILE EVERY EFFORT HAS BEEN MADE TO ENSURE THE ACCURACY OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN THIS ADVERT PRICES MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AND NOT ALL SIZES AND COLOURS MAY BE AVAILABLE


Shoes

Wel lheeled Mariam Awad walks down the memory lane of high heels.

W

Who doesn’t love a pair of Louboutins?

ho doesn’t love high heels and platforms? Every woman who wants to look gorgeous puts them on. Every girl who wants to impress her boyfriend wears them high enough to show off her curves. You slip them on and it’s an instant makeover – you can almost feel tiger claws growing on your fingers.

is another example of how only the wealthy or upper classes could afford high heels.

But have you ever wondered who invented high heels or where they come from?

Then in the 15th Century, the Turks created a type of platforms that later on became very popular in Europe and survived until the 17th Century. These platforms were worn separately over the shoes and were only popular among women. It has been said that some of these chopines could be as high as 70 inches. In fact, women who wore chopines usually needed two servants to help them walk.

Surprisingly, high-heeled footwear originated in Ancient Egypt circa 3500 B.C. The very early versions of shoes were made of leather and worn mostly by the upper class while the lower class used to walk barefoot. High-heeled shoes were worn by both men and women during ceremonies. Also, it is believed that butchers used to wear high heels in order to keep their feet clean from the blood on the floor. In Ancient Greece and Rome, actors used to wear platforms during their performances. At the time, various heel heights used to indicate different standards and level of importance. Another use of high-heeled shoes in ancient Greece and Rome (around 1000 B.C.) was at wedding ceremonies. The father of the bride would present a shoe to the groom, representing the transfer of authority. The bride would then throw the shoe and the next single lady to catch it would be the one in turn to get married. It’s our version of a bouquet of flowers – shoes represented power, authority and possessions. During the Middle Ages, women as well as men wore high-heeled shoes – these had wooden soles and would be attached to expensive shoes in order to keep them clean. Again, this

What women want - a pair Manolos

Moving on to the 9th Century, Persian horse riders were famous for wearing high-heeled shoes which would help them hold fast to their steeds.

Among the Venetians, chopines were a symbol of their status. On the other hand, the Chinese and Turkish made sure their women wore very high heels to prevent them escaping from their harem. High heels became even more important during the 16th Century, when royalty started imposing their status by wearing high heels. In France, men also took to wearing heels which kept getting higher and thinner until the 17th Century, when these became so impractical that they were shortened to a maximum height of three to four inches. Despite their popularity as a symbol of power and standard of living, high heels were still not considered to be a fashion statement. It was Venetian women who started this trend, and was further popularised by the French, who gave high heels an aristocratic shine. It was because of this that during the French Revolution, women hid their high heels in order not to be discovered and executed.

The beginning of the 19th Century saw a new and different shape of heels. Flat shoes and sandals were introduced and became very popular with men and women. Yet high heels didn’t stand back – soon, they became a symbol of freedom. Various heels were designed for different occasions. You had the elegant high-heeled shoes for a cocktail party and the slightly shorter and squarer heels for formal working environments. Today, the trend continues, with all sorts of heels, from kitten heels, stilettos and block heels to wedges and platforms. The concept of wearing high heels has also changed drastically – nowadays, women wear high heels to look powerful, dominant, gorgeous and confident. And who wouldn’t want that?

FM October 2012 - 29


OPENING THIS WEEK AT THE PLAZA


Style

STYLE STALKER Girls just want to have autumn fashion fun, says Kira Drury.

Autumn trends

Topshop

Let’s update those wardrobes ladies. Hurray for the new season in style. Leather and lace. Fashion takes a walk on the wild side – think Goth Goddess. Moody florals. Not just for spring, florals stick around for winter but take on an edgy new alter ego. Opulence. Gem trimmed silks, crushed velvet and brocades – indulge in this season’s most extravagant trend. Waisted. Cinch in those waistlines – it’s all about showing off those curves and belting it. The Colour Purple. This season’s new colour queen.

Burberry AW12/13

Asos

Doll’s House

Spiked It seems like everything has been spiked – and I’m not talking drinks, but fashion. From shoes to tops to bags and beyond, it’s all about spikes. This trend should come with a health warning – try not to prick anyone.

Fashion blogs Carpisa, €17.90 Carpisa, €17.90

Handbag heaven Carpisa’s new AW12/13 campaign is as beautiful as their new collection. For all you handbag lovers out there, you must go check them out. Gorgeous bags for super reasonable prices – what’s not to love?

Carpisa, €19.90

I’m completely obsessed with fashion blogs – it’s the best way to keep myself updated on the latest trends, fashion news and inspiration from around the world and it’s totally free. I could spend hours and hours lost in my blogosphere. Check out these three style gems, which will keep you busy for an hour or three...

www.honestlywtf.com www.stylebubble.co.uk www.streetfsn.blogspot.com FM October 2012 - 33


Style

Topshop

Time to take a step back from the much-loved bodycon skirt.

210_Casual-Couple.112.jpg

The skater skirt It’s been a busy year for the skirt – first it was pencil, then the drophem and now we need to make some room in our wardrobes for the skater. This uber flattering number is about to blow up, so start stocking up now.

Front row at New York Fashion Week

Fashion for a natural life Tom Tailor is for people who feel good because they have found their own style. Since its foundation in 1962, the fashion company and its products underline a positive and carefree attitude towards life. For each of its six product lines – Men Casual, Women Casual, Kids, Minis, Baby, Denim Male and Denim Female and the Tom Tailor Polo Team line – the Tom Tailor Group launches up to 12 collections per year. Natural trends, seasonal colours and trendy highlights reflect the key statement of all collections. This high-quality fashion offering is complemented by never-out-of-stock, flash and repeat products and 19 different licence product groups. Tom Tailor also markets licensed accessories such as leatherware, perfumes, bed and bath.

Amy Adams, Emma Stone and Diane Kruger at Calvin Klein / Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones / Kim Kardashian / Alexa Chung.

Never hide Throughout its 75 years, Ray-Ban has been instrumental in pushing boundaries in music and the arts, creating the power of the rock and movie stars to influence fashion. From James Dean, Audrey Hepburn to Michael Jackson, Ray-Ban was indispensable for cultural icons who don’t want to be seen but want to be noticed. In 2012, Ray-Ban celebrates its heritage with its Legends communication campaign, featuring a profile of a real person from every decade of Ray-Ban’s existence. Seven shots illustrate seven decades from the 1930s to today, showing how Ray-Ban has inspired those who share its ethos to never hide.

34 - FM October 2012

Tom Tailor combines the emotional added-value of its lifestyle brands with high product quality, democratic fits, attractive features, swift managing of upcoming fashion trends and good value for money. Tom Tailor also actively participates in Cotton made in Africa, an initiative started by the Aid by Trade Foundation. The initiative works towards improving living conditions for African cotton farmers. In the first week of November, Tom Tailor is opening a new 110 square metre shop-in-shop at Daniels Complex, Hamrun. Daniels Complex is one of the largest malls in Malta and its open plan layout and parking facilities offer true shopping convenience. The Square Deal Group, sole agents of the Tom Tailor brand in Malta, decided to take a key space in this new mall due to its one-stop-shop convenience factor.


C o n f e s s i o n s Dark secrets and sinister thoughts inspire this season’s goth trend - think lace, velvet, studs and lashings of attitude.

Photographer, Creative director: Kris Micallef, www.krismicallef.com / Photographer’s assistant: Nicky Scicluna Styled by: Kira Drury / Make-up: Diandra Mattei / Hair: Mikaela Borg Barthet / Model: Chanelle @ models.com.mt

Pippa Toledo black velvet dress, €221.25 / Pippa Toledo necklace, €250 / Pippa Toledo cuff, €180.00 Parfois hat, €24.90 / Desigual shoes by King Shoe shop, €139.90


Firetrap @ Exit Wax trousers, €66.90 / Mexx white shirt, €42.95 / Parfois bow brooch, €6.90


Mango red dress, €159.99 / Tally Weijl lace top, €12.95 / Pafois black belt, €12.90


Monsoon white dress, €155.00 / Orsay black shirt, €19.95 / Peacocks corsage, €5.50 each Scholl shoes, €80.00 / Tights, stylist’s own


Orsay beige top, €17.95 / Tally Weijl drop-hem skirt, €19.95 / Parfois chunky necklaces, €14.90 each Gauda Sliema heelless platforms, €29.00 / Tights, stylist’s own


Esprit gold trousers, €79.95 / Mango military jacket, €129.99 / Bata green boots, €115.00


Mexx poloneck, €37.95 / Mango stud shirt, €44.90 / Boots from Gauda Sliema, €99.00 / Peacocks cross leggings, €20.50


Firetrap @ Exit knit dress, €68.00 / Boots from Gauda Sliema, €99.00 / Esprit shawl, €39.95 / Tights, stylist’s own


Trends

Saint Laurent Paris

The dark arts This season’s fashion is a grown-up combination of brocade, mannish shoulders and simple silhouettes. Look hot in the cold with FM.

T

here’s still a hint of summer in the air – but it’s just the calm before the actual storm.

Summer is well and truly over. The heat is off, mornings are misty, days are shorter and everything is a bit darker. Even fashion has taken on a shadowy turn with a dark palette, head-to-toe leathers, winter florals and shadowy silhouettes, offset by the bright sparkle of jewelled jackets and brocade. It’s a darker fashion mood – but you can still shine.

Etro

Accessorize bag, €79.00

Keep it simple

Burberry

Accessorize Scarf, €24.90

After the bits and bobs of summer trends, autumn has taken on a more restrained, simpler look. Silhouettes are clean while fabrics are used to showcase the designers’ cutting talents.

Monsoon skinny trousers €60.00

Carpisa, €29.90

Purple rain This season’s colour is purple in all its royal shades. In Milan, Gucci showcased a deep purple drama while Christopher Kane went for a feminine lavender look.

Monsoon ladies peacock jacket, €108.00

Waisted Accessorize Suzie beaded clutch €49.90

The main focus this season is the waist – from pencil skirts and peplums to break-up trouser and top sets, put your waist on show. FM October 2012 - 45


Prada

Trends

The Barometer

Esprit, €69.95

Wear

Accessorize trilby, €39.00

Be a man This season, shoulders are big and shapes are masculine. It’s a boy versus girl scenario – the boy wins but the girl gets to dress up.

Dolce & Gabbana’s needlepoint bags – all in the details.

Tear Karl Lagerfeld’s cat Choupette has two maids, her own iPad and flies by private jet. E! Entertainment introduces the stiletto-cam, mani-cam and pedi-cam. What next?

Leather love Head-to-toe leather smacks of a buttoned-up sexuality. But still, there’s nothing as sexy as a fetishistic vision in leather – leather is dark, mysterious and gives you a sophisticated matt sheen. If you’re not after the full on look that borders on the androgynous, go for leather details.

Badgley Mischka

Jourdan Dunn – the new Naomi.

Gareth Pugh

Balmain Marie embroidered suede bootie sandals – we want them.

Monsoon sequin tunic dress, €90.00

Bejewelled

Chapped lips. Yes, autumn is here.

Autumn’s sombre look is offset by folksy brocade, silver and gold threads and jewel encrusted items. Clements Ribeiro’s silver brocade is especially beautiful. But it’s not about the glitzy effect – rather, what’s on show here is the actual design and architecture of the embellishments. Make a statement with all things metallic.

Blog watch

The who, what, why, wear of the net

www.poccaa.blogspot.com Anything and everything inspirational.

www.cupcakesandcashmere.com Two things we love.

www.highsnobiety.com Climbing up the social latter.

Esprit, €249.00 Carpisa, €17.90

46 - FM October 2012


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Fashion

S T R EET STYLE Romina Farrugia watches the last summer street catwalk at the Locarno Film Festival.

Graziella Nationality: Maltese What type of films do you like? I like French films, sci-fi and English gangster films.

Bettina Nationality: Swiss

Anjara Nationality: Costa Rican What type of films do you like? I like dramatic films such as Shame with Michael Fassbender. What is your all time favourite movie? The Colour Purple directed by Steven Spielberg. Which fashion item will remind you of this summer? All the neon in clothes and nail lacquers

What type of films do you like? I like thrillers and comedy. I really don’t like the sci-fi genre. What is your all time favourite movie? Matchpoint. I love Woody Allen’s films and in this case the cast was superb. Which fashion item will remind you of this summer? This white hat. I find every possible excuse to wear it since I like it and it also protects my face from the sun.

Natalia Nationality: Uruguayan

Miriam Nationality: Swiss What type of films do you like? I like romantic films. What is your all time favourite movie? Titanic, although I must confess that I end up crying every time I watch it. Which fashion item will remind you of this summer? Roman sandals.

What type of films do you like? I like adventure and comedy. What is your all time favourite movie? The Rum Diary with Johnny Depp. Which fashion item will remind you of this summer? This summer I loved the retro sunglasses. My favourite is a black Prada pair with a curly detail on the stem.

Marika Nationality: Swiss What type of films do you like? My choice of film usually depends on my mood. What is your all time favourite movie? It’s definitely The Fabulous Destiny of Amélie. Which fashion item will remind you of this summer? Wedged espadrilles. I got three in different colours and different wedge heights.

What is your all time favourite movie? Fifth Element is a definite favourite – I’ve watched it at least five times. I also love Guy Ritchie’s Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels. Which fashion item will remind you of this summer? Ear cuffs were all the rage in London, where I live. I also got married last July and chose to wear a multi-layered pearl necklace made by a Turkish designer that I bought online from Etsy.

FM October 2012 - 49


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Budget Queen

A fashionable lesson Lara Boffa goes back to school on a budget.

Secondly, hunt down any pieces that need modifying or altering and get them sorted out. After carrying out both exercises, know where to shop for bargain buys. Look through sales sections, lastchance-to-buy sections and visit your favourite charity and thrift shops.

B

ack when I was in secondary school, my biggest mid-summer concern would be finding a school bag for the next scholastic year. However, when I moved on to sixth form and University, the question I constantly asked myself was, “What am I going to wear this year?” usually followed by extremely melodramatic instances of I-have-nothing-in-my-closet panic. Excluding the few who gracefully manage to work and study at the same time, students tend to live on a very tight budget. Their bank accounts are in their worst shape when a new academic year commences. They fork out money to buy dozens of books. They buy laptops or tablets. They also end up spending quite a bit on caffeine-drinks to prevent them from snoring through that 8:00am lecture. It’s therefore perfectly understandable that students feel like they cannot afford to revamp their wardrobe at this time of year. Still, there are things that can be done to minimise this problem. First, sort out your wardrobe. This is going to give you a clear picture of what’s inside, what’s missing and what you really need to buy as soon as possible. When work starts accumulating and assignments begin rolling in, you will not have time to do this.

If there is one thing I would definitely suggest splurging on, it’s your everyday bag. Keep in mind that this daily companion is going to carry your books, laptop, folders and maybe even food. Look for something neutral in colour, preferably waterproof (wet notes aren’t a good idea), sturdy and structured that can comfortably host all of your student life. Unless you make a wise choice at the beginning of the year, you’re going to find yourself replacing your bag often and that can get really expensive. If you can afford it, get one in brown and one in black. You won’t need anything else. The secret on the clothing front is to make sure you have a sound handful of basic clothing items when you return to college or university. First and foremost, basics are usually quite inexpensive when compared to other pieces. Secondly, these versatile garments can accompany you throughout the year because they are very easy to mix and match.

The Budget Queen Lara Boffa is allergic to oranges. She’s also an interpreter, has always wanted a pet dog, can play the piano and is lost in six languages. She runs her own fashion blog at boffism.blogspot.com

FM October 2012 - 51


Budget Queen

White shirts can also be worn under what I consider to be two other student staples – jumpers and cardigans.

A plain white shirt is an essential item in every student’s wardrobe. This piece can be worn casually and more formally – it can also be layered and it can easily be re-interpreted if accessorised properly. White shirts can also be worn under what I consider to be two other student staples – jumpers and cardigans. The latter two, preferably of the slouchy kind, were always my best friends whenever I had to brave the chilly breeze to attend an evening lecture.

Fashion excitement The New Look Collection for fall/winter 2012-2013 has a casual, slightly androgynous, retro air. Recalling the ’70s femininity is done subtly in each of the collections, Spellbound, Get Carter or Kaleidofolk, available for the next season. Designed for the New Look woman, this season promises loads of fashion excitement with diversity in mixing and matching tweed with knits, and prints with leather and cotton. The collection was launched at the New Look Wet & Wild party with a fashion show and Red Electrick unplugged at The Fashion Weekend.

52 - FM October 2012

For trousers, you should invest in items that are very quick to throw on when you are just about to miss your bus to University (again). Leggings, jeggings and soft fabric jeans are ideal for long study sessions at the library, especially when you have to sit on the floor because all the desks are already taken. Keep a pair of chinos, carrot pants or tailored trousers handy for those days when you feel like making an extra effort or for when you are meant to deliver that very much-dreaded presentation. In the shoe department, comfortable shoes get my vote in the ‘ideal student shoes’ category. Whereas a pair of simple, black flats can take you anywhere from your literature lecture to a more puttogether meeting with your dissertation tutor, brogues are a preppier, more masculine alternative that can add an extra detail to your everyday outfit. I have to admit, brown brogues were my most worn type of shoe in my student days.


[ National Breast Screening Programme 2012 ]

[[ National National Breast Breast Screening Screening Programme Programme 2012 2012 ]]

Malli irċevejt l-ittra biex immur “ għall-breast screening ħtaft

l-opportunità halli nserraħ rasi u dik tal-familja tiegħi. Servizz professjonali bi privatezza kbira u b’xejn! Lanqas irrid nemmen li hawn min jirrifjuta għax Mallisaħħti irċevejt biex immur għalija tiġil-ittra l-ewwel! Malli irċevejt l-ittra biex immur għall-breast screening ħtaft għall-breast screening ħtaft l-opportunità halli nserraħ rasi My breast screening appointment l-opportunità halli nserraħ rasi u dikan tal-familja tiegħi. Servizz was opportunity that I could u dik tal-familja tiegħi. Servizz professjonali bi privatezza kbira not afford to lose. I needed to professjonali bi privatezza kbira u b’xejn!myself Lanqasand irrid nemmen reassure my family u b’xejn! Lanqas irrid nemmen li hawn min jirrifjuta għax it’s that I was well. Even though li hawn min jirrifjuta għax għalija saħħti tiġi l-ewwel! free, the service is very professional għalija saħħti tiġi l-ewwel! and conducted in full privacy. My My breast screening appointment health is of utmost importance so My breast screening appointment was an opportunity that I could Iwas findan it hard to understand those opportunity that I could not afford to lose. to who turn down theII needed invitation. not afford to lose. needed to reassure myself and my family reassure myself and my family that I was well. Even though it’s that I was well. Even though it’s free, the service is very professional free, the service is very professional and conducted in full privacy. My and conducted in full privacy. My health is of utmost importance so health is of utmost importance so I find it hard to understand those I find it hard to understand those who turn down the invitation. who turn down the invitation.

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For further details contact us on: Tel: 21227470/1, e-mail: mbsp.mhec@gov.mt or visit www.breastscreening.gov.mt


Wardrobe

All the world’s a catwalk For model Daniela Darmanin, representing Malta at the Miss World finals was an unforgettable adventure.

What or who encouraged you to start modelling? I’ve always loved fashion and modelling and it was my dream to one day represent my country in the biggest contest in the world. Then seven years ago, a friend of mine suggested that I start participating in beauty pageants – I started doing shoots and shows and eventully got to realise my dream. Do you remember your first modelling experience? I do remember it – it was a big learning curve and I had to learn a lot of things to start building up my modelling career slowly but surely. What inspired you to compete in Miss World Malta?

D

aniela Darmanin, 21, has a passion for fashion and has been modelling for the past seven years. She has modelled and competed in England, Tunisia, Bulgaria and Cyprus. Daniela won the 2012 edition of Miss World Malta organised by Modelle International and represented the Maltese Islands at the Miss World finals in China.

Daniela’s autumn wardrobe “This season I will be wearing a mixture of studs and suede shoes and handbags and tapestry-like print dresses.”

Since I was a little girl, my dream was to take part in this contest – it’s the biggest contest on the island and offers so many opportunities. I first participated four years ago but I knew I had to be better prepared for the next time. And I was. How was your Miss World experience in China? It was amazing and different from any other contest I have participated in abroad. Everything was so diverse, from the food to the culture. It was an adventure that I will never forget. What are the colours and styles that you think suit you best? My style is quite simple but glam. Because I’m a brunette, I feel that dark colours suit me best. How did your wardrobe look when you were young? My wardrobe looked really colourful and simple when I was young. I’ve always loved fashion but I used to let my mum decide for me on certain clothes as I was young. And how does it look now? Now it looks very different as my sense of style has developed. I love colours and different styles but I keep my wardrobe simple. I also have a lot of shoes and accessories as these complement an outfit. Do you plan your shopping trips or are you a guerilla shopper? I never plan my shopping trips. If I see something I like, I just buy it. I’m a bit of a mad shopper – I have to buy something new every time I go out. What are your current wardrobe favourites? My current wardrobe favourites are high waisted jeans complemented by studded blazers and high wedges.

FM October 2012 - 55


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Style Wise

W H AT I K NOW A BOU T STY LE

TRUE COLOURS

Don’t be afraid to be yourself, says Gayle Zerafa Cutajar.

Name: Gayle Zerafa Age: 29

From a very young age I was always playing around in my mum’s wardrobe, parading her blouses and wearing them as gowns in front of my relatives. As I grew older I always felt I needed to express myself through clothes. I remember my mum wanting to dress me up in frilly outfits but I never wanted to look like every other little girl – I wanted to be different and to be myself.

Profession: Fashion stylist and image consultant

Photo by Elisa Von Brockdorff I always knew what I wanted in life, including what I wanted to wear. When I reached a certain age I started buying clothes every week to have enough outfits to strut my stuff on weekends. When friends or people complimented me or called to ask for advice, I realised that I could turn something I’m passionate about into a career.

Styling is a second nature to me. I also love interior styling – I was lucky enough to dabble in that but I always fell back to fashion styling. When I decided I wanted to start this professionally, I started reading for a Diploma in Image and Fashion Styling based in London.

Gayle’s rules of style Style is about personality and expressing yourself. Items have to go together, but they don’t have to match. Having an unlimited budget is a blessing but that doesn’t mean you have style.

I am always hungry for knowledge and inspiration. I can be inspired by anything, from a song to a dress.

Good quality clothing is key – invest in timeless pieces that will never go out of style.

I remember my first fashion shoot like it was yesterday. I was so excited that I got up at the crack of dawn to make sure I’m there on time to sort out everything – I love having everything organised like that. The satisfaction I got after five hours of hard work is beyond words – I knew then that this was the start of an exciting journey.

Accessories transform an outfit but don’t overdo it. Don’t be afraid to be yourself – style is about individuality and experimenting.

For a shoot to be successful, everyone involved has to work as a team and communicate with each other about ideas they might have. My favourite trends for this season are leather, baroque, tartan, military, digital prints and dogtooth. Anna Dello Russo, editor-at-large and creative consultant for Vogue Japan, is a huge inspiration. To me she is the epitome of what fashion is. And I would love to get my hands on her beautiful headpieces.

When shopping always keep in mind that if whatever you are buying cannot be worn on three different garments, leave it hanging. Style if the confidence to do anything you want to do in life.

Fashion is something you buy but style is something you do naturally. FM October 2012 - 57


Last Word

Capturing moments Curiosity made Antonella Muscat a photographer.

Zooming in Name: Antonella Muscat Age: 67 Education: Qualified as a physiotherapist in 1989 and achieved a postgrad in Geriatrics and Gerontology from the University of Malta in 2002. Moved to the UK in 2006 and launched Antonella Muscat Photography in 2009 specialising in portrait and boudoir photography.

Who or what inspired you to take up a camera and start shooting? I have always been interested in images and am somewhat frustrated I couldn’t draw or paint. Also, my parents rarely took photographs, so the documented memories of an interesting childhood are few and far in between – I promised myself that would not be the case for my family. I started taking photos when I was about 12 and became a Nikon SLR user in 1994. What are your earliest memories of a camera? My dad’s Polariod – that was an impressive toy to look at but not touch, unfortunately. I was impressed by the whole process and the clunky plastic object that churned out images. Would you say that photography is a visual medium or does it also involve other senses? For me photography is a medium which incorporates thoughts, feelings, mood and experiences. The image in itself means little if it does not evoke feelings and does not stem from feeling. Images are for me a way of expressing what I see or what I would like others to see. I am also as intrigued by the process of image making as the image in itself, and am always into the how and why of things. How do you define boudoir photography? By definition boudoir photography relates to images taken in the privacy of a ladies’ chamber. However I make

58 - FM October 2012

it a point to set myself aside from the myriad of photographers who sell nothing much except images that demean a woman. My work involves understanding the person I am photographing to get the best out of them. I use my social and anatomical skills to pose people in a way that makes them feel comfortable and look natural. The ladies’ chamber, which is usually the client’s own home, helps to set the scene for the client to be relaxed and comfortable with the photographer and to produce images that she will treasure or gift to her loved one. By settling down in Norfolk, you have placed yourself in the context of a foreigner – does this enhance your photography with added curiosity? I am innately curious and always look at creating the extraordinary out of the mundane. However Norfolk is anything but mundane. Big skies, high latitude and ever changing weather means that light is changing all the time, presenting countless opportunities to photograph the same, but differently. It has also helped develop my control of image taking and care in exposure, meaning

I carry a light meter or bracket to get the image I am looking for. I am lucky to live close to a nature reserve, as well as miles and miles of golden beach – these add to my inspiration. Do you always carry a camera around with you? My iPhone is always with me – it helps me take notes of what I want to get back to and develop into something that has meaning. I’m a fan of iPhoneography in itself and feel it is the right medium for social media with the feeling of urgency it portrays. What is the best photo that you didn’t manage to capture? There are instances when I got upset I didn’t have a camera with me but the feeling is still in the grey cells waiting to be processed in some way. What makes you push the shutter release? The feeling that I can make an image that looks different to what my eyes see as well as capturing important moments as they happen.

For more of Antonella Muscat’s photography visit www.antonellamuscatphotography.co.uk


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FM OCTOBER ISSUE 163