Sustainable Cloth: From Farm to Home and Closet 2022 by flyinggoatfarm

Sustainable Cloth: FromFarmtoHome andCloset

Oberschneider

Photo by Christoph

Thewardrobechallengebeganasa ruggedsensoryexperience.Itdidn’t alwaysfeelflatteringtomyskintonesor bodyshape,andtheeffortbrokedown myprevioussenseofidentityandmyidea ofwhatfashionisorhowIwanteditto be.However,Isoonrealizedthatmy clothingwastellingadifferentkindof communitynarrative,onethatgave everyonewhowantedtocontributea meanstodoso.Thiswardrobehadlittle tonothingtodowithwealth concentration,fashiontrends,orcultural dominance.Thewardrobewasaliving expressionofwhereIlive,whatvaluesI have,andwhatsortofcommunityI belongto.

—RebeccaBurgess Fibershed:GrowingaMovementof Farmers,FashionActivists,andMakers foraNewTextileEconomy,2019

by Yzerg

Photo

Acknowledgements

WearegratefultoallwhoparticipatedintheChesapeake FibershedSustainableClothChallenge. Thechallengewas designedtoraiseawarenessofwhatcanbemadewithlocal fiber,localdyeandlocallaborintheChesapeakeregion. Theprojectsshownonthesepagesshowthetalentand beautifulfibersthatwehaveinourareaandwillhopefully inspireotherstochallengethemselvestomakewithlocal fiber. SpecialthankstoMarianBruno,LisaCheck,Alex LeClaire,andKerstinZurbriggfordesigningtheparameters ofthechallengeandforshepherdingtheprojectthrougha yearofmakingandtofibershed.orgfortheirsupport.

GatheringphotographybyWilliamCheck.

AboutSustainableCloth

Wetakeforgrantedtheclothinourlives-ourclothescoverusdailyyetmostofusaren’tawareofhow theyweremadeorwhomadethem. Whenyoulookaroundattheclothesinyourclosetandthe textilesinyourhome,doyouknowwheretheyweremade? Doyouknowwhomadethem? Doyou knowtheimpacttheyhaveontheplanet?

Sustainablefashionisanumbrellatermusedtodescribeproducts,processes,activities,and decision-makersinvolvedincreatingacarbon-neutralfashionindustry.Butthere’smoretoitthan that. Sustainable fashionpromotesequality,socialjustice,animalwelfare,andecologicalintegrity. Sustainablefashioninsistsonlocallysourcedandproducedgarments,atransparentsupplychain, traceableworkprocesses,andrawmaterials,safeworkingconditions,andfairwages.

Thischallengeisasmallstepinthatdirection. Participantsweregiventhree“streams”tofollow: Embracingourfibershedbyonlyusinglocallymaderesources,Re-envisioningbyupcyclinglocally sourcedcloth,orBorrowingfromotherfibershedsformaterialsthatcouldnotbefoundlocally. The resultisacreativeembraceofourlocalfiberandtalentthatshowsusallwhatlocallyproducedtextiles canbe.

TheThreeStreamsofMaking

Embracing..ourplace.Tocelebrateandacknowledgetherichresourcesandcapacitiesavailableinour immediatesurroundings,thisstreamrequiredworkingwithalllocalfibers,naturaldyes,andlocaltalentto createatextileitem.

Re-envisioning…ourresources. Extendingthelifeofourexistingtextilesplaysanimportantrolein reducingglobaltextilewaste. Thisstreamrequiredusingmaterialsthatwererepurposedandfound locally.

Borrowing…acrossourboundaries. Sometimesgrowthrequirescompromiseandthehelpof neighbors. Inthisstream,uptohalfofthefibermaterialcouldbesourcedfromoutsidetheChesapeake Fibershedbutasclosetoourregionaspossible.

Forallstreams,notionssuchasbuttons,zippersandthreadswereexemptfromthefibershedsourcing requirement.Participantscouldfollowanyofthesestreamsofmakingforthischallenge:Aspartofthechallenge, weaskedparticipantstodocumenttheirmaking-thematerials,theprocesses,andtheirpersonaljourneys. This bookcontainsthosestoriesintheirownwordsandphotographsunlessotherwisenoted.

2022: A Year of Sustainable Cloth Projects

Photo by Lois Lee

Eco-printpillows

Stream:Embracing

Fronts:Merinowool-BlackSheepFarm

Backs:Jacobwool-SolitudeWool

Stuffingwool-FlyingGoatFarm

Cottonfabricforpillowinsert-CestariLtd(cottongrowninVA,fabricmilledinSouthCarolina)

Inspiredbythegloriouscolorsofautumn,thesepillowsstartedassimplesquaresofhandmadefeltfabric-using naturalwhiteMerinoforthefronts,andnaturalgreyJacobforthebacks..Thepillowfrontsweretheneco-printed usinga“dirtypot”methodlearnedfromanonlineclasswithNicolaBrown,anIrishartist. Locallygatheredleaves, alongwithplantmaterialleftoverfromfloralbouquets,gaveavarietyofwarmsubtlehues. Tomaketheprints,the feltwasdampenedwithvinegarwater,foldedovertheplantmaterialstogiveamirroredimage,bundledtightlywith string,andcookedinabathofwater,vinegar,onionskinsandarustyhorseshoe. Onceprinted,thepillowswere machinestitched.

Bruno

FeltmakerandfiberartistlivingandcreatinginArlington,VA.

Marian

CozyCowl

Stream:Embracing

MerinorovingfromBlackSheepFarm MohairrovingfromFlyingGoatFarm JacobrovingfromSolitudeWool

WhenthinkingaboutthankingLeeLangstaff,thefarmhostfortheSustainableClothGathering,it seemedthatgivingheraclothingitemthatwaslocallysourcedwouldbeaniceremembranceofthe event. Ichoseacowlforafewreasons-nosizingneededanditwaseasiertowearonafarm-noworries ofitgettingcaughtonaroughnail,orofbeingnibbledbyafriendlyanimal. Thecowlismadeoftwo finelayersofmerino,withfelted"stones"ofthemohairandJacobsandwiched betweenthelayers. Since thestoneshapeswerefullyfelted,theyaddedtexture,withalovelyhalowherethecutedgesmigrated throughthemerino.

MarianBruno

FeltmakerandfiberartistlivingandcreatinginArlington,VA.

Alpacarugs

Stream:Borrowing

Weft:Core-SpunAlpacaYarnfromAnnStevensofEminenceFarminPoolesville,MD Warp: 100%cottoncrochetyarnsourcedfromJoannFabrics,madeinCanada

Thecore-spunyarnwasofferedupatoneofourfirstSustainableClothonlinegatherings. Itlookedinteresting soI optedtotakeitandseewhatIcouldmake. Theowneroftheyarnaskedforsomethingpractical,preferablyarugso aftersomeonlineresearch,Idecidedtoweavearug. Afterabitofresearchonweaving,Idecidedtopurchaseapeg loomsinceit’ssimpleandcouldbeeasilystored. AfterwatchingafewYouTubevideosandreadingtheinstructions thatcamewiththeloom,Ijumpedinandmademyfirstrug. TherewasstillmoreyarnsoImadeasmallersecondrug. Whilesimple,theyshowthebeautyofthenaturalcolorsandareamazinglysoftunderfoot. Usingthissimplepegloom gavemeanincredibleappreciationforthelocalweaversinourarea!

MarianBruno

FeltmakerandfiberartistlivingandcreatinginArlington,VA.

HandspunDayDreamerTee

Stream:Embracing

100%BlueFacedLeicesterWoolCombedTop GrownatFlyingGoatFarm ProcessedintotopatZeilingerWool,Michigan InterweaveKnitspatternmodifiedbyLisa HandspunandHandKnitbyLisa

Iwantedtomakeashortsleeved,oversizedtopoutofrovingIhadfrommysheepandsheepfroma partnerfarm.Thisnaturallycoloredrovinghassomehintsofwhiteandsomelightanddarkcharcoal colorsresultingfromthewoolbleachinginthesunwhileonthesheep.SinceIhaveonly1coloredBFL ewe,Icollected3yearsofherfleecesandthenaddedsomemorefleecefromapartnerfarm.

IstartedspinningthefiberduringtheTourdeFleecein2021.Imade1800yardsof2-plyfingeringweight yarn.Iknitagaugeswatchtotestforsizeandtoseeifthelacepatterningwouldshowwiththedarkbrown colorofthe wool. I"wore"thisgaugeswatcharoundtoseeifthewoolwouldbecomfortabletowear.

IcastonthissweateratthebeginningofthechallengeandrealizedthatthepatternIwasfollowingwasnot right.Thenecklinewaswaytoobig.SoIhadtomakeadecisiontodecreasethecaston. Iendedupcasting onforthesmallestsizeandthenIhadtodoalotofmathinordertomakethesweateralittleoversizedin thetorso. WhenIcametothelacepartofthepattern.Iswitchedtoabiggerneedlesothatthelacewould showmore. AndthelastinnovationIaddedwassomelaceonthesleevesaswell.

IamverypleasedwiththissweaterandIwillenjoywearingitoverandoveragain.

LisaCheck

Lisaisalifelongtextileartist.Sheweaves,knits,embroiders,quilts,sews,spins,anddyesfiber,yarnand cloth. SheisashepherdwithaflockofAngoraandCashmereGoats,CormoandBFLsheep.Heryarn linesincludeaCertifiedFibershedProductline. SheisanenthusiasticsupporterofFibershedingeneral andChesapeakeFibershedinparticular.

HandspunHandwovenCottonShirt

Stream:Embracing

SpunandwovenfromcottonbredbymeandgrownbymydaughterBetsyTricein Hadensville,VA.SewnwithCoatsandClarkcottonthread.IusedKonaCottonPFD tomakethebiastapeusedtofinishtheneckline.

Thiswhitecottonwasbredfromacrossofgreenandbrowncottonthateventually evolvedintowhitecottonwithnakedseeds.Ifgreendoesn'thaveallthegenesitneeds toexpressasgreen,itexpressesaswhite.Thenakedseeds,whichareusuallyrecessive, camefromthebrowninthecross.

Iintendedtomakethis shirtinmysignaturestylewithaseamdownthefront,an openingattheneck,andashoulderliningthatservedasfacingfortheneckand opening.Iwasshortoffabric,probablyresultingfrommeweavingintwillforthe shirt.Theintendedliningwasplainweave.Ichangedthedesignandusedtheplain weaveasthecenterpaneloftheshirtandhavenoshoulderlining.

CindyConner

IstartedspinningcottonIgrewin2011,addingflaxtomygardenin2016.Ilearned toweavewhenImademyfirsthandspungarmentin2015.Iamworkingoncreatinga wholehomegrown,handspun,handwovenwardrobeformyselfandamexcitedabout teachingotherstodothesame.MybookHomegrownFlaxandCotton:DIYGuideto Growing,Processing,Spinning&WeavingFibertoClothisbeingpublishedby StackpoleBooksandwillbereleasedJuly1,2023.

Photo by Claudiu Maxim

OneFleeceProject(Year1)

Stream:Embracing

RawTunisfleecefromFoxdaleSpringsFarminMD.Tunissheeparewellsuitedforlivinginourclimate.The sheep'snameisSelena.

Thisprojectchallengedmetolearnhowtoprocessafleecefromitsrawstatetoafinishedgarment. Atthestartof thisprojectlastOctober,Ihadonlyspun100gofwool,andhadneverworkedwithrawfleece.Iwantedtolearn howthesheep-to-sweaterprocessworked,andsoIdid!OverthepastyearIlearnedhowtospinforreal,learned aboutthedifferencesin sheepbreedsandhowtoevaluate,buy,andprocessarawfleece,andsomuchmore.

Myoriginalplanforthisprojectwastomakeasweater,buttimingconstraintschallengedmetorethinkthatplan andembracethe"slow"partof"slowfashion."Iamnowconsideringthisatwo-yearproject,withanultimategoal ofdemonstratingallthatcancomefromasinglefleece.

SofarIhavemadeasleevelesstopaswellasmanyskeinsofyarn,representingabout1.3lbsofthe5.9lbsfleece(4.5 lbsafterwashing).Idesignedtheyarntobeknitintoasweater,andIexpectIhaveonlyspunabouthalfofwhatwill beneededforit.Ihopetobeabletogetmanysmallergarmentsoutofthisfleeceafterthesweater,likegloves,socks, orahat.Iamexcitedtobeabletoshowjusthowmuchyoucandowithonlyonefleece,asIthinkthislinesupwith ourvaluesofappreciatingandembracingourlocalmaterials.Luckily,Tuniswoolisbothsoftanddurable,making itveryversatileandsuitableformanydifferentapplications.

Iamdevelopingafermentationindigovatusing"borrowed"indigofromLivingBlueinBangladesh.Notlocal,but indigothatisfairlytradedandsupportsthefarmerstherethathavehistoricallybeenexploitedfortheirindigo.I plantousethisindigoalongwithblackwalnutstodyetheyarnthatispresentedhere.Blackwalnutsareextremely local,comingfrommyneighborhoodandthebackyardsoffamilyandfriends.Neitherofthesedyesrequiresa mordant.

RoanFarnum

Iamasustainablecraftexplorer-abitofajackofalltrades.Ilovethewaytextilesandmaterialculturereflectand reinforcecommunityvaluesandIhopetodoworkthatconnectspeoplebacktothelandandtoasenseof belongingandabundance.MycurrentventureishelpingoutthePennsylvaniaFlaxProjectintheireffortsto re-establisharegionallinensupplychainintheUS.

Stream:Embracing

LeicesterLongwoolFleecetoYarn

LeicesterLongwoolfleecefromBlackberryFarmsownedbySaraAniinWestminster,MD.Thesheep'snameis Linden.

Thegoldencolorisfromthenativesandtickseed(coreopsissp.)flowerheadgrowninmypollinator/birdgardenin Riverdale,MD.

ThebluecolorisfromIndigofromKirsten'sindigopotduringthemeetupoverthesummerof2022.

TheLeicesterLongwoolrawfleecewassoakedusingcollectedrainwaterandscouredwithUnicornFiberPower Scour.Afterthewoolwasdry,itwasthendividedinto4ounceheaps.Iwasinspiredtomakeashawltoshowcase theshineandthelength,andIwantedtoexperimentwithnaturaldyes.

Itwasabitofachallengecollectingthecoreopsisflowerheadwhilecompetingwithcaterpillars,bees,andbirds.I leftatleast2/3forthem.Ilearnedtowashandsoaktheflowerheadincoldwaterfirsttoallowthoselivinginthe spentflowerheadtimetofindanewhome.Thereisauniverseinthere!Aftersoakingtheflowerheadincoldwater,I boiledthemixtureinastainlesssteelpot.Theflowerheadandvmwerestrainedusingarecycledburlapbagandthe coloredwaterwasreturnedtothepot.FourouncesofLeicesterlongwoollockspresoakedin10%ofalumand7% ofcreamoftartarbyweightwasthenaddedtothedyebath.Thewoolsimmeredforonehourthendriedflat.

Fortheindigodye,Iplaced2ouncesoftheLeicesterLongwoollocksinameshbagtobedyed.Iusedthedipand squeezemethodsuggestedandthewoolwasairdried.

Oncethedyedwoolwasdry,Iseparatedthemintolockstohandcombthewoolintotop.Firstpasswasdonewith 1-pitch,thenthesubsequentpassesweredonewith2-pitchcombs.Thistechniqueseemedtoremovetheshortand weakfiberwithouttearingthewoolfibersapart.Topwasballedintonestsfororganization.

ThewoolwasthenspunusingaCanadianProductionWheel.Iwascarefulnottoovertwistthelongwool. Comparedtospinningwoolforsocks,Iwentforabout1/4oftheamountofspin.Thesingleswerebobbined,then 2-pliedusingaSchachtSidekickwheel.

ThenextstepistocontinuespinningtheremainingnaturallydyedLeicesterLongwool(lightbluefromblackbeans andburntorangefromcoreopsis+bakingsoda)todesignandknitastripedshawlwithfaroeseinspiredwingsfor betterfitontheshoulders.

IkumiKayama

I'matrainedmedical&scientificillustratorwhohasbeenknittingsince2001andspinningsince2009.Ilove creatingcomplexpatternsinlaceandcolorworkwhileworkinginwool.

CVMFleecetoYarnforMittens

CVMFleecefromTingtaliacamefromMarushkaFarmsownedbyMarieMinnichinDanville,PA.

Rawfleecewashandwashed,handprocessed,separatedbycolor,andspun.

TheeCVMrawfleecewassoakedusingcollectedrainwaterandscouredwithUnicornFiberPowerScour.Afterthe woolwasdry,itwasthendividedbycolor:lightgreyandcream.Iwasinspiredtomakeapairofcolorworkmittens toshowcasethevariegatedfleecefromoneewe.

FirstItriedcombingthewool,buttheyieldwasonly50%,soIswitchedtocurved72tpihandcardsandhand carded2ouncesofgreyand2ouncesofcreamintoafairlylargeheapofrolags.

ThewoolwasthenspunusingtruewoolenaCanadianProductionWheel.Iwentforaboutfingeringweight.Then Imadeabalanced2-plyusingSchachtSidekick.ThewoolissofineandbouncythatIthinktheywillmakegreat colorworkmittens.

Thenextstepistomakeaquickswatch,todrawoutshapesinspiredbytheChesapeakeregionongraphpaper,and tomakeapairofmittenswithpointytipsandthumbgussetsforcomfort.

IkumiKayama

I'matrainedmedical&scientificillustratorwhohasbeenknittingsince2001andspinningsince2009.Ilove creatingcomplexpatternsinlaceandcolorworkwhileworkinginwool.

BorderLeicesterCowl

Stream:Embracing

MerinoWoolfromQuailHollowFarm,ElktonMD.CleanedandcardedatAlfordFamilyFarmand Spinnery,BeallsvilleMD

BorderLeicesterFleecefromWoolyWondersFarm,Carlisle,PA.

RePurposedsilkscarvesfromGoldenRoosterThriftShopinUpperville,VA Antiquebuttonfrommymother'sbuttonbox

Iwantedtomakeamerinocowlfromapatternafriend hadsharedwithme. Ihavealargestashofwooland inmystashI foundtwolocalfleecespurchasedattheMarylandSheepandWoolfestival.Toaddcolortomy work,IusuallyusesilkthatIhavepaintedordyedwithchemical dyes,butforthischallengeIturnedtoa stashofsilkscarvesIcollectedfromlocalthriftshops. Ipurchasealotofthe woolisuselocally,itwasgood toactuallylooktoseewherethesefleecescamefromtoinsuretheywerewithinthefibershedandtolimitthe embellishmentstorepurposedsilkandbuttons.Itwasaniceexercisetoparticipatein.

KathrynKeister

Iamalifelonglearnerinthefiberartsfromsewing,knittingandembroideringasachild,tospinning, weaving,dyeing,silkpaintingandfeltingasanadult.Withnaturalfibersasacanvas,Icontinuetoexplorethe interplayofcolorandtexturethroughthefiberdynamicsofsilkandwool. Withadesiretobemoremindful intheuseofresources,anddrawinginspirationfrombothnatureand inpreviousdecadesofcreatives,Iincorporatedfourgenerationsoffiber,textile,beadandbuttoncollections in mywork. Asbothastudentandinstructor,Iamcommittedtoaffirmingandpursuingtheintersectionof creativity,storytelling,neuralintegrationandhealth/wellness.

by Claudiu Maxim

Photo

NaturalsinWoven

Stream:Borrowing

100%merinoyarn,undyedfromSimpleHillFarm,Rockingham,Virginia

Forthisproject,Idustedoffmyloom,notjustbecauseIneededtoclean,buttoactuallywarpitforthefirsttimein years! Iwantedtofeelwovenclothcreatedwithyarnfromoursheep. Iwarpedtheloomwiththenaturalcolored undyedTreeBarkBrownyarnat8endsperinchwith76ends. TheTreeBarkBrownyarnisacomboofourdark brownmerinowoolwithsomecreammerinowooladdedinfromthe2020shearing.Iwoveacrepeweavepattern withournaturalcoloredundyedMushroomGreyyarnfortheweft. ThisMushroomGreyisamixofoursilver, mooritandsomecreammerinowoolfromthe2020shearing.Thewoolenspunnatureofouryarnpullstheweave ofthestrandstogetherintoasolidwarmcloth. Ididwarpasecondscarfwith12endsperinchwhichallowedfora looserweftweaveresultinginaslightlylessdensecloth,avaluablelearningforfutureprojects. Ialsolearnedthat despitethefactthatIcanbreakouryarnwithmyhands,itdoesholdupunderthetensionofawarp,doesn'tstretch outandweavesbeautifully!

HeidiLantz-Trissel

MyloveofcreatingwithyarnstartedjustafterhighschoolandintocollegeasIlearnedtocrochetandknit. Mylove fortextureandsoftfibersstartedmuchearlierasakidspendinghourspettingandbrushingmylonghairedcat (savingthelargeballsofhairthinkingtherehadtobeauseforit!)andtwistingsoftbladesofgrasstogether. Since thenIhaveapprenticedwithafiberartistandfarmerwhotaughtmeaboutfiber,sheep,angoragoats&rabbits, llamas,carding,spinningandweaving,ownedalocalyarnstoreandworkedforClaudiaHandPaintedYarns. Now I'mtheco-ownerwithmyhusbandofSimpleHillFarmwhereweareraisingaflockofmerinosheepwhosewoolis processeditintoyarnatGreenMountainSpinneryandthenInaturallydyeitwithplantssomeofwhicharegrown onourfarm. Onourfarm,locatedintheShenandoahValley,weofferfarmtours,naturaldyeingworkshopsand summercamps. YoucanfindoutmoreaboutSimpleHillFarmonourwebsiteatsimplehillfarm.comorfollowus onInstagramandFacebook@simplehillfarm. Youcanalsofindouryarnforsaleonline,atourlocalHarrisonburg yarnstoreRocktownYarnandatsomelocalfiberfestivals.

GardenParty

Stream:Reenvisioning

Thisquilt’soriginstoryisanodetomylatemother’sloveofentertaining,andherdesirethatIlearntosew,andis madefromhercopiousstashofcottonandlinennapkinsandoldsheetsnaturallydyedwithmykitchenscrapsof avocadoandonionskins,foragedwalnutsandgoldenrod,marigoldsfrommygarden,afriend’sdahlias,andindigo fromLady-Farmer,MaryKingsley.TheonlyoutoffibershedmaterialisHawthorneSupply’sAuriful100%cotton quiltingthreadfromItaly.AllthreadforthemachinepiecingwasfrommyMom’sinheritednotionsstash.

EllenLetourneau

Fiberenthusiastandnewbiesewer,quilter,weaver,andgarmentmenderandmakerlivingintheAgricultural ReserveofMontgomeryCounty ona20acrefarmwithmyboyfriendanddogRae.

LogCabinforFriends

Stream:Re-envisioning

Theserugsweremadewith100%cottonwarpIhadonhandfromWebsyarnstore,andtheweftisacombination ofotheritemsfrommystash. Thebrightgreenisfromascarfthatwasabirthdaygiftfromafriendbuthadbegun tounravel(contentunknown),rovinggivenmebyBevThomsfromhersheepraisedinMontgomeryCounty Maryland’sAgriculturalReserve,oneofmyboyfriend’scottoncorduroyshirtswellbeyondrepair,multi-colored yarn(contentunknown)purchasedatalocalbutnowdefunctyarnstore,andmyMom’slinennapkins.

Theywereintendedtobeusedinmymainbathroom,buttheyturnedoutalittletoolighttoberugsinahigher trafficarea,soarebeingreconsideredasagarment–perhapsaponchoorcoat.

Thenamecomesfromthe“logcabin”designandtheitemsfromfamilyandfriends.Ialsolikethenotionof creatinganew“structure”fromwelllovedandrememberedthings,stackedoneontheotherasatangibleand functionalmemorykeeper.

EllenLetourneau

Fiberenthusiastandnewbiesewer,quilter,weaver,andgarmentmenderandmakerlivingintheAgricultural Reserveona20acrefarmwithmyboyfriendanddogRae.

HotChocolateSweater

Stream:Embracing

100%NaturalWool‘SpecialDark’Breed:Romney/Romeldale3plyfromLeeLangstaffof Shepherd’sHeyFarm

Ellen: IapproachedPattySanvilletobepartofaspecialprojecttocreatea"new"lovedsweater recreatingan"old"lovedsweater,thatunfortunatelywasmadefrommostlysyntheticfabrics. Shehad noyarnfromherflock,soIwasthrilledthatLeeLangstaffofShepherdsHeyFarmhadayummydark browncolorthatwouldfeellikebeinginsideofawarmandcozycupofhotcocoa;irresistible.Lee explainedthatthecolorcomesfromthesun-bleachedtipsofblackwool;whenthefleecesareskirted theseareasaresetaside.

PattyandIthensearchedforpatternsthathadsimilarcablesandsheaskedquestionsabout modifications. WhatdidIloveandnotloveabouttheoldsweater?AftersettlingonapatternPatty tookmymeasurementsandnotesconfirmingmyvisionanddesires. PeriodicallyPattywouldaskme totakearunovertotryitonforher,andshe’dforwardpicturesofthematerializingsweateralongthe way.Sherelates:

ThenightbeforeEllenandLeewerecomingtopickupandseethesweater,Iwasfullofanxiety. Would itﬁtasdesigned,thesleevesbethecorrectlength? WouldEllenloveitasmuchastheoriginalsweater, andLeethinkIhaddoneheryarnjustice? Somanyquestionsswirlinginmyhead. Theanswerswere allaresoundingYES. Ellenlookedfantasticinthesweater,-thesleeveswereperfect,thehemIdesigned workedashoped. Leeseemedpleased.

Thiswasanamazingcollaborationofonewoman'shardworkandyearsofbreedingselections,one woman'sdesiretohaveasweaterthatwascreatedwithinourfibershedinasustainableway,and anotherwoman'spassionforknittingandmakingdreamscometrue. Ithinkwemadeagreatteam!

EllenLetourneau

Sweaterhunter,fiberenthusiastandnewbiesewer,quilter,weaver,andgarmentmenderandmaker livingintheAgriculturalReserveona20acrefarmwithmyboyfriendanddogRae.

Patricia Sanville

Sheepproducer,knittingenthusiastandownerofBuddingCreekFarm

CottonPear

Stream:Borrowing

Cotton:Grown,Ginned,Carded,partiallynaturaldyedbytheartist. NaturalbrowncottonfromUS,butnot local.

Iwantedtotakeaprocessallthewayfromseedtofinishedproject. Knowingthereweremanysteps,andbeinga novicespinner,asmallprojectfitthebill.IwasinspiredtogrowandspincottonbyMelveneaHodgesof TraditionsinCloth.

Growing: VirginiansneedpermissiontogrowcottonfromDepartmentofAgriculturalandConsumerServices,to keepfrominterferingincommercialcrops. Iplantedwhite,naturalbrownandnaturalgreencotton. 6whiteand 3eachofthecolored. Luckily,theygrewfairlycarefree. Wecouldhaveusedanotherweekofhotweathertofully ripenthebolls.

Driedthebollsforseveralmonthsbeforepullingthepuffsofcottonoutofthebolls. Anentirepapergrocerysack fullofcottonbollsyielded2ozofginnedcotton. Theginningprocesswasinteresting. Aftersome experimentation,Iendedupusingapastamakerandasheetofleathertoseparatethecottonfromit'sseeds. Somewashandcardedintopunis,butIfoundcardingonadrumcardermoreefficientandtheyarnjustasnice.

Spunonseveraldifferentsupportedspindles. Ifoundittooadvancedformetogetthecottonthreadstohold togetherwhileusingmyspinningwheel. Ididusethewheeltoplytwoorthreesinglestogetherandthatworked well.ThebrowncottonIgrewwasjusttooshortformetospin. SoIusedatinybitofnaturalbrownsliversourced fromTraditionsinCloth.

KerstinZerbrigghelpedmedyeoneofmyskeinswithindigoattheSummergathering.

MypatternisaalsoaborrowfromthewizardsatModernDailyKnitting. It'sbasedonthePerOrladishcloth,but onasmallerscale. Thewholefinishedprojectweightsonly5/8oxor17gms.

KathyReed

RetiredUSNavyCaptain,nowafiberfarmer,SolitudeWoolPartner,sometimeknittingteacher,knitdesigner, localfiberguild communicationschair. Learningtoslowdown.

ChesapeakeCoat

Stream:Embracing

Woolandllamayarnfromseverallocalfarms,milledlocally. CottonliningfromCestariFarms,fromVAbutpossiblymilledinSC. PatternfromWinterWearDesignsinStateCollegePA.

Ilovetheideaofmakingmyclothingfromcompletescratch! Asaweaver,Iwasexcitedtotrythischallengeand weavemyownclothandmakesomethingfromit. IfoundthatlocallysourcedyarnmostlycamethickerthanIhad hoped. IusedundyedDKandfingeringweightyarnfromseveralsources. Sincetheyarnwasthicker,Idecideda coatwouldbethebestoptionformyFibershedyarn. Iusedseveraldifferentnaturalcolorsinmyoriginalfabric, onlytodiscoverI'dmiscalculatedtheyardageneeded. Thus,therearetwodifferentfabricsincludedinmycoat. I usedmostlylocalcottonfabricasthelining,becauseitneededaliningthatwasn'twool.Cottonfabricishardto comebyinourFibershed,andthoughthecottonwasgrownintheFibershed,itwasmilledoutsideofit. Ilove howmyfinalproductlooks,butIlearnedthatweavingwoolisdifferentthancotton. Myfabricismuchmore fragilethanIexpected! InowknowIneedtofinishmyfabricdifferently,thatlocallygrownandmilledwoolishard tofind,andlocallymilledcottonimpossibleatthemoment

TeresaRosello

Selftaughtweaver,dyer,knitter,spinner.... ifitinvolvesfiber,Iwanttoknowmoreaboutit. SelftaughtmeansI don'tknownearlyasmuchasIthinkIdo,butIlovetryingnewthingsandlearningfromtheexperience.

Photo by Martin Leung

DevilsblissDuster

Stream:Embracing

Fleece:EastFriesianFleeceandZwartblesFleecefromDevilsblissFarm,Lovettesville,VA Buttons:woodfromChardonnayvinesatDevilsblissFarm,hand-madebylocalcraftsman,JeffStruwingof TakomaPark,Maryland 100%wool"gros-grain"ribbonfromBurnley&Trowbridge,Williamsburg,Virginia

Sincelearningtospinin2015,Ihavehadadesiretospinasmanydifferentbreedstolearnthedistinctionsand characteristicsofdifferenttypesoffiber.In2019,Ipurchased,processedandspunmyfirstDevilsblissZwartbles fleece;thefollowingyearIpurchasedoneoftheirEastFriesianfleeces.

Lovingandevensurprisedbytheresults(EastFriesianisknownforitsmilk,notitswool),Isoughttodemonstrate toothersthatthisparticularfamilyofsheepwasworthyofbeingmadeintoyarn. Withagrowingfondnessfor TracyKirkman,theshepherdessworkingsohardtoraisetheseanimals,IofferedtoknitTracyasweaterofher choice.Thisoffercoincidedwiththe2022SustainableClothChallenge. ThiswashandknitusingapatternI created.

JillaineSmith

I'vebeenamaker(withfiber)offandonsincethelate1970s--quilting,crocheting,knitting.Idiscoveredmy passionforspinning,thentransformingrawwoolintofinishedproductstartingin2015.IhadnoideawhenI startedworkingwithwoolhowmanydifferentbreedswereoutthereandhowdifferenttheresultscouldbefrom differentbreeds.Icontinuetoenjoythediscovery. Ihavegrownincreasinglyinterestedinsupportingbreedersand shepherdswhoarepracticingsustainablefarmingasIbelievethispracticeiskeytobothaddressingthechallengeof climatechangeandestablishingahealthyfoodsystem.

VictorianFashionDolls

Stream:Re-envisioning

Vintagelacesandlinenorcottonsmallpieces(e.g.,handkerchiefs,doilies,runners),collectedthroughtheyears fromestatesalesandantiqueshopsinthearea: alldyedwithweldoralkanetfrommygarden. Recycledsilkblouse,woolsuiting,cottonshirt-allfrommyfamilyclosets;"fur"trimforcoatisfeltfromBFLlamb locks,madebyMarianBruno.Thelacesaredyedwithalkanet. Bothdoll'sunderpinningsaremadefromvintagehandkerchiefsandlaces.Bustlesandthechannelsinthecrinoline arestuffedwithlocalfleece--acommonpracticetoobtainvolumebeforeinventionofthewatch-springsteel'cage crinoline'in1856.

Ineverplayedwithdollsasachild,buthavelonghadaninterestinsewingandhistoricalfashion:oneofmymajors incollegewasVictorianStudies,andIusedtomake(human)costumesforalocalGilbert&Sullivantroupe. SomehowthisallcametogetherduringthefirstCovidyear,whenIunearthedmygrandmother'sporcelainhead dollandstartedmakingclothesforher.Isetmyselfthetaskofmakingeachoutfitashistoricallyaccurateaspossible foragiveneraofQueenVictoria'sreign. Soonmygrandmother'sdoll,Millicent,wasjoinedbyaneBayfriend, Cordelia. Althoughbotharecloseinheight(10-11"),theyarequitedifferentlyshaped,as19thc.porcelainhead dollswerenotstandardized. Porcelainheaddollswerealltheragefromabout1840-1920.Typicallythesedollswere madetolooklikegrownwomen,withpaintedmoldedhairandface. Theheadisattachedtoabodymadefrom fabricorleather,stuffedtogivehips,bustandotherfigureelements. Oftenthearms andlegsarealsoofpainted porcelainandattachedatelbowandknee,givingsomeflexibility,andgivingeachdollauniquebodyshape,justasa human.

FortheSustainableClothChallenge,Idecidedtousevintageandupcycledfabrics,dyedwithplantdyethatImade frommydyegardenmaterials. Bothdollsarestyledinthelate1860’sfashion,whichistheperiodwhenchemical dyeswerefirstbeingintroduced. Iliketothinkthatmyladieshadenoughfashionsensetoeschewtheviolentnew colorsandstickwiththeclassicnaturalpalate,evenwhileembracingtheevolvingsilhouette,whichinvolvedalot ofunderpinningandover-draping.

MaryLouSteptoe

WashingtonDCnative,withfamilyrootsinVirginiaandMaine.Retiredlawyer.Gardener,singer,loverofall thingsfiber,especiallyknittingandsewing.

AJoyfulStormofRaspberryCape

Stream:Embracing

100%CorriedaleCrosswoolfromHowellHill

The“JoyfulStormofRaspberryCape”is100%woolfromHowellHill’sorganicallypasturedandgrainfed Corriedalecrosssheep.Threenatural-coloredfleecesofcream,grayandchocolatesetthetoneforthismid-calf lengthcape.Allwoolwashandprocessed,spun,felted,andwovenbyateamassembledfromtheWeaversGuildof GreaterBaltimore.Fabricforthecapebodywasfloor-loomwoven,whilethecollarfabricwasrectangle-loom woven.Theweavestructureisabalancedbrokentwillwithasettof16endsperinch.Eye-pleasingsymmetryin clothdesignacrossthefrontandbackalsocreatesastunningchevronattheshouldersideseams.Shellbuttons securethecapeattheneckline.Inanhomagetoourfibershed’sflora,appliqueswerenaturallydyedwithsage, marigoldandwineberrypriortofelting.ADogwoodflowergracesthecollarclosure,cherryblossomsandmonarch butterfliesformanaturescapeacrossthebackandBlack-Eyed-Susansbloomfromthehem.Withatwirl,thethree godetsenhancethegracefulsweepofthisbeautifulcape.

WeaversGuildofGreaterBaltimoreTeam

TheWeaversGuildofGreaterBaltimoreisa501(c)(3)organizationdedicatedtoeducationandincreasingthe knowledgeofweavingandfiberarts-relatedskills. Membershipincludesover150individualsfromacross Maryland,Pennsylvania,DistrictofColumbia,andVirginia. Membersparticipatingonthechallengeteamare:

HeidiBrown

RheaCosentino

PeggyHowell

JanetLee

NatalieLove

LeeMcIntyre

AshelyMoore

MaryPflueger

EdyeSanford

SarahSoisson

CindySolomon

JoyfulStormofRaspberryGloves

Stream:Embracing

100%CorriedaleCrossWoolfromHowellHill

Probablythehardestpartofthisprojectwaschoosingadesign!Fourdifferenttestswatchesweremade,witheach onerepresentingageneralgroupofpossibledesigns,rangingfromcoloredtravelingcablestolacechevrons.Finally, thesimplefairislechevronwasdecidedontoechothepatternoftheaccompanyingJoyfulStormofRaspberry Cape.Theglovesbeginjustabovetheelbowwithadark2x2seedstitchbandtomatchthenecklineofthecape,and continuestraightintothecoloredchevrons.Themajorityofthegloveisplainstockinettestitchtoshowcasethe lovelyhandspunyarnandelegantshaping.Theglovenarrowstothewrist,thenexpandstoaccommodatethehand. Thethumbholealsohasasmallsectionof2x2seedstitch,creatingacutethumbcowl.Largerdarkchevronscover thehand,andthegloveendsatthefingerswithasimplerolledbrim.Thegloveisdesignedtocomplementthe shapeofahumanarm,featuringdramaticshapingandthumbholesthatareoff-centertoaccountforthefactour thumbsgomoretowardsourpalmsthanthebackofourhands.

WeaversGuildofGreaterBaltimore

HannahSeppalaisayoungknitterfromBaltimorewithawidearrayofexperience.Havingstartedknittingin kindergarten,shehassincemadescarves,blankets,sweaters,gloves,stuffeddragons,andmanymoremiscellaneous projects.SheiscurrentlyagraduatestudentatUMBCintheatmosphericphysicsprogram,andisknowntoknitin classasafocusaid.Shelovesknittingasacraftbecauseofthefreedomtomakeanyshapeordesign.

ShawlandCap

Stream:Embracing

MerinoWoolandAngoraMohair-WithersWoolFarm

AllthefiberfortheshawlandcapcamefromtheMerinoSheepandAngoraGoatsontheWithersWoolFarm.The fiberisshearedandprocessed(washedandspun)atthefarm.Thesearethenaturalcolorsofthewoolandmohair. Theinspirationfortheseitemscamefromimagininghowthecolorsfromthevariousanimalswouldnaturally blendtogetherinaknittedpattern.

KathyWithers

TheprimaryartistforthisworkwasKathyWithers,whopassedawayduringthechallengeyear.. Kathywas involvedinthefiberartsfordecadesandraised merinoSheepandangoragoatsforover20years.Shewasassistedby herhusband,Marc,andfellowfiberartist,BarbaraFurlough. ManythankstoMarcforcontinuingherlegacyand bringingherchallengeprojecttous.

TheYouthIndigoPartnership

Theprojectsfromtheyouthgroupaddressedthequestions:whatissustainable,whatis regenerativeandwhataretheimpactsofourchoices?Theirindividualandcollective approachestoansweringthequestionsformedanintersectionofexploratory,challenge streamsinconversation,withafocusonmaterialsourcingandfarming.Theyworked together tocreateacommunity-shared,sustainabledyegarden,whichwastheguiding inspirationfortheircollectiveandindividualapproaches.

InMay,twolargegardenbeds(roughly5’x8’)werecreatedusingno-tillmethodsand throughadaptingrestorativegesturestotheearthincompostingandmulchingpractices. Pollinationwasencouragedthroughsustainingadiversityofplantsintheshared environment.Theseinvestigationsofregenerativeagricultureprinciplesbecameaprimary endeavorinthesharedgarden.Theseedswere7thgenerationindigo(Polygonum tinctorium/Persicariatinctoria)seeds,open-pollinated,andoriginallysourcedfromPutnam HillNursery,RowlandRickettsandCraigWilkinson.Seedswereplantedtightlyto dissuadeweedsandtominimizetheneedforwateringthroughtheheightofthesummer.

AfterthefirstharvestinearlyAugust,SylviaandAvausedafresh-leaficebathextraction methodtodyewoolyarnandrovingsourcedfromlocalfarms.InlateJuly,leaveswere frozenandsavedforusewhentheprojectswouldbefurtheralong.Thismethodof preservationandofcolorreleasewasbroughttousallcourtesyoflocalspinneranddyer KathieBryant(and,fortheflexibilityofthismethod,andextensionoftimeinutilizinga freshleafprocess,wearetrulygrateful). EllaandMaya’syarnsweredyedintherichly pigmentedwatersfromtheprocessoffreezingfreshindigoleaves. Thegardencontinuedto thriveandtheindigoplantsgrewbountifullywellintothemonthofSeptemberwhen successiveharvestsweregathered. Thevibrancyoftheplantshadmuchtodowiththe connections,caretakingandrestorativepracticessobeautifullygiventothespaceofthe garden.Inthelatefall,seedsfromtheseplantsweregatheredanddriedwiththehopethat theywillbeplantedinfuturecommunity-sharedgardens.

StreamsofIndigo:MistyShoots

Stream:Embracing

YearlingmohairyarnfromFlyingGoatFarm

Sylviawasinspiredtoworkwithshadesoflightblues.Shehadaspecificcolorinmindforherprojectandthen basedhersweateraroundwhatshethoughtwouldmatchthatcolor.Althoughinspiredbyothersweatersand patterns,thepatternforMistyShootswascompletelyofherownmaking.Shestartedwithastitchthatsheknew shewantedtoincludeandthenworkedfromtheretocreatetherestofthesweater.Sylvianotonlylearnedabout howtocreateapatternbutshealsolearnedaboutthedyingprocessofworkingfromfreshleafindigoand extractingcolorwithice.

TheYouthIndigoPartnership

Theteambroughttheirprojectstogetherbycreatingtheirownsharedindigogarden.Overthecourseoftheyear theygrewtwobedsofindigofromseed,andworkedtogethertoprocessit.Theyexploredthepossibilitiesoffresh indigothroughStreamsofIndigo,fourprojectsthatexplorethecolorsofindigothroughtheirownlens.

StreamsofIndigo:BloomingBreeze

Stream:Embracing/Re-emvisioning

Elladecidedtoreuseoneofheroldoldprojectsandrepurposetheyarnintoaprojectthatshewouldactuallyfinish andwear.BloomingBreezeismadefromyarnwhichshehadpreviouslycleaned,spun,andknitandthenunraveled assheworkedfromtheoldpiecetothenewpiece.Afterthesweaterwasknitshedyeditwithfreshindigoleavesin anicebath.Whileworkingontheprojectshelearnedabouttheprocessofgrowinganddyingwithindigo.

TheYouthIndigoPartnership

StreamsofIndigo:HarvestSky

Stream:Embracing

FinnsheepwoolpurchasedfromSolitudeWool up-cycledyarnspunbyKerstinZurbriggfromaCoopworthsheepcalledEinkornfromArbormeadowFarmin Virginia.

AvahandspunanddyedthelocalFinnwoolthatshepurchase. Shewasinspired toexploretextureandcolor.She wantedtoworkwithdifferentgaugesofyarnandexperimentedwithneedlesizeasawaytoincreaseanddecrease whileworkingonHarvestSky.Throughthisprocessshelearnedabouttherelationshipoftheyarnandtheneedle andhowitaffectsthedrapeandqualityoftheknitting.Avausedtrialanderrortomakeasweaterwithoutapattern andusedhersensesandgutfeelingstodecidewhattodointhepattern.Shealsowasnotafraidtotakeouther knittingwhenshedidnotlikethewayitlooked.

TheYouthIndigoPartnership

StreamsofIndigo:FrozenRoots

Stream:Embracing/Re-envisoning

SilkwormeggsraisedfromasericultureinstituteinPadua,Italy.

FrozenRootswasinspiredbyre-envisioningoldthingsandbynature.Mayawantedtoturnsomethingthatwas unwantedandunusedandmakeitsomethingnew,creative,andelegant.Sheraisedthesilkwormswhosesilkshe usedforembroidery. Intheprocessshelearnedaboutthelifecycleofthesilkwormfromeggtococoontomoth, andhowtoprocessthesilkfromthecocoons.Mayaworkedwithaspinner,KerstinZurbrigg,tohelpherto developanembroiderythreadforherwork. Oncetheembroiderythreadwasreadyshedyeditwithindigo.She learnedabouttheprocessesofdevelopingsilkfromcocoonswithRenetaMaile-Moskowitzandthenappliedthisto herproject.

TheYouthIndigoPartnership

Stream:Embracing

FinnsheepfleecefromHoneysuckleFarm,MD AngoragoatlocksfromPeavineHollowFarm,VA BlueFacedLeicesterxCaliforniaRedfleece(Lexie),SweetGumFarm,VA,scouredthencombedwithLouet minicombs

Finnsheepwool(lamb,Sanna)/angoralocksblendedandmilledtorovingatGurdyRunWoolenMill,PA; SecondFinnfleecemilledtorovingatCentralVirginiaFiberMill(re-processedwithLouetminicombs).

YarnswerespunonaSchachtMatchlesswheel IndigodyeswereprocessedfromgardengrownJapaneseIndigo,Polygonumtinctorium,inSilverSpring,MD (originalseedsource:PutnumHillNursery). SmallskeinofhomespunFinnwoolyarndyedwithanexhausteddatereductionindigovatusingStoneyCreek Colorsindigopigment BlackwalnutsfromourgardenandnearbytreesinSilverSpring,MD

Iwasinspiredtocreateanorganicallyformedknittingpattern,onewhichisinformedbythepassageoftime, theshapeofone’sownbodyandlooselybasedonthedesignofafavorite,thriftedcowlsweater. Myintentwas toexplorethecolorblue,thepresenceofpigmentinwoadandindigoatdifferenttimesoftheyear,towork withcolorderivedfromlocaltreesandtocontinuetofindwaystobringvitalitytothegarden. Theprojectwas acollaborationwiththeplantsaroundme,tocreateapainterlyexperienceofknittingandtodevelopafabric whichwaswovenfrommyimmediatelandscape.

Thesweaterwasknitoverthecourseoftheyear,thewoolwasspunanddyedthroughouttheseasons. The sweaterisbothajournalofworkingwiththeelementoftimeandseasonsinthegardenandajournalofmy ownmarkmaking.AftereachperiodofknittingIallowedasmalllengthoftheindigo-dyedworkingyarnto cometositinabowlofblackwalnutink.Theinkmarkedtheintersectionofmypausesandstarts.Icameto seethesemarksbothassymbolictreeringsandastheconfluenceoftwoplantstreams.Thesweaterbecame verymuchaprocessofmeditationandconnection,asIconsciouslychosetoknitwithoutotherdistractions, mostlyintheearlymorning. Theprojectprovidedanopportunitytoobservethelightfastnessoffreshleafextractionsonwoolwiththe notionthatshouldthecolorsfade,thewholesweatercouldbere-dippedinasummerindigoharvesttorevive thecolor.Intheend,throughnewprocessesandrelationships,itappearsthefreshleafpigmentexpressions becomelesstransitory.

KerstinZurbrigg

KerstinZurbriggisanartist,teacher,writerwithabackgroundinfineartsandnaturalhistory. Kerstinhas livedintheDCareafor17years,homeschoolingherthreechildren,exploringmultidisciplinaryapproachesto fiberartsthroughteaching,spinningyarnsfromlocalfarms,gardening,workingwithplantpigments,and exploringhealingaspectsofourconnectiontoplantsandtheearth.

Confluence

Sustainable Cloth: From Farm to Home and Closet 2022