Urban Outfitters Trend Forecasting Report

URBAN OUTFITTERS Trend Forecast Report

Fleur Robinson 201127390

Word count: 2,091

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UO SPRING/SUMMER 2021 TREND REPORT

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CONTENT. Foreword

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Lifestyle Trend: The ‘Genclusive’ Generation

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Target Customer

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Trend Overview

Customer Profile

Egalitarian Elvie Customer Persona

Urban Outfitters

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22 24

Brand Overview Brand Moodboard

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Trend Concept

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Trend mood

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Colour Vision

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Yarns & Fabrics

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Egalitarian

Bold Brights Pale Pastels

Accent colours Core colours Denim tones

Core Fabrics

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Key Silhouettes

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Range Plan

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Marketing Suggestions

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Conclusion

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Essential Hoodie Essential Jogger Boxy T-Shirt High Rise Long Sleeve Top Nylon Track Pant Fitted Waffle Tee Sheer Asymmetric Top Utility Denim Jumpsuit Wide Leg Jeans Denim Trucker Jacket and Jean Co-ord

Visual Merchandising Experiental Marketing

Appendices

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Appendix A - Rodgers Theory Of Diffusion Appendix B - Focus group interviews Appendix C - Consumer persona Appendix D - Garment composition Appendix E - Weekly progress analysis

83 90 92 94 96

References

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Figure References

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FOREWORD. This trend report has been commissioned for the Spring/Summer 2021 collection of Urban Outfitters. This literature aims to provide an in-depth analysis of the trend forecast, written for the in-house design and buying team.

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THE ‘GENGENER

A ‘Genderless’ generatio

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-CLUSIVE’ RATION. ..

on, inclusive of all beings.

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TREND OVERVIEW. Today, the booming phrase “The Future Is Female” (Mettler, 2017) heard loud and clear since its introduction in the 70s (Meltzer, 2015), is classified by many, as outdated.

Gender equality is by no means a new concept, yet it is this societal stance that has driven the macro trend of Gender Inclusivity; the ideology that an individual of any orientation or gender identity can feel equal. The term ‘Gen-clusive’ has therefore been coined to define this zeitgeist.

The trend of gender inclusion and gender equality has driven a growth in a ‘genderless generation’, whereby an increasing number of younger consumers are questioning gender roles; identifying as non-binary and “seeking out versatile, androgynous styles as a means of self-discovery” (DeLeon, 2016). This trend has further prevailed through ‘gender-bending icons’ such as Jaden Smith and Ru Paul; whom both are influential in the spread of inclusivity and acceptance among millennials and ‘Gen Z’ers’. Appendix A shows the current societal positioning of this trend.

According to new research by The Hut Group, 38% of Gen Z respondents “strongly agreed” that gender no longer defines a person as much as it use to (Petro, 2018), enforcing trends of dressing which defy gender norms. These changing consumer values that place less emphasis on distinct male-or-female characteristics and more emphasis on inclusivity, must receive response from retailers and brands in order to retain the consumer loyalty of this generation (Stelmaszczyk, 2019).

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Figure 8

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“Consumers and employees are putting increasing pressure on fashion brands to become proactive advocates of diversity and inclusion�

(McKinsey & Company, 2020 p.17)

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Figure 9

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TARGET CONSUMER. The drivers of this lifestyle trend are cross-generational; however, the majority contrive the older tier of Generation Z – those generally aged 18 – 24. 20% of this generation currently identify as LGBTQ and an increasing percentage of young people are now identifying as non-binary, or as something other than their prescribed gender (Johnson, 2016). Younger consumers are reforming their identities around their interests, intents and habits; marking a shift away from traditional definitions of gender, sexuality, race and demographic.

This generation are more interested than previous generations have been in human rights (Francis and Hoefel, 2018) and have the volume in terms of population to support and drive these ideologies (Johansson, 2017). Rallies, marches and annual pride weeks taking place worldwide, highlight the progressive attitudes and drive for left-wing movement of this cohort. The activist approach of this generation has prevailed as a key method of manifesting this movement: Generation Z are creating a great presence of individuals who are demanding rights for a future that no longer acknowledges just two genders.

For this generation, the act of buying products or services isn’t necessarily related to following trends. Instead consumerism is about expressing individual identity. Generation Z “want brands to align with their personal values and beliefs” (Fontein, 2019). Enforcing the idea that the intrinsic nature of sexual orientation and clothing, is outdated and more progressive attitudes take root as androgynous dressing becomes commonplace.

Vintage finds have fuelled this generations love for past trends often inspired by the 90s (see Appendix B), their wardrobes entail pieces from a plethora of high street stores as well as resale platforms. This generation are defined by their uniqueness and economic sensibility (Hanbury, 2019).

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EGALITARIAN ELVIE.

Based on the three individual interviews conducted (see Appendix B), a customer persona is created. These personas are beneficial for brands as they provide a clear target and focus throughout the design process (Yu & Lin, 2009). This fictional composite character is based upon data from real people and creates the core customer of the brand (Fraser, 2012). This persona is further exemplified in Appendix C.

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Figure 11 - 20

CUSTOMER PERSONA. 11

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17 SOCIALIST16

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SELF-CARE

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14 VINTAGE

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ACTIVIST

HIGH ACHIEVER

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CREATIVE

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Name: Elvie Thompson Age: 20 Occupation: Student Jobs: Barrista: Student Union, Helping my mum with her flower shop at home.

Studies: Philosophy, Politics & Ethics (PPE) Location: Brighton/London Hobbies: My blog. Gender equality activist & self-proclaimed feminist; keeping up to date with current affairs Likes: Travelling; seeing the world. Days at the beach. Socialising – going out and spending time with friends. Shopping. Skincare. Spending time with family.

Dislikes: The current gender inequality of the world. Rainy days.

Style: Laid back, retro and vintage styles.

Shopping needs: Wearable styles that last season upon season, Most worn items: Vintage Levi jeans, any oversized jumper.

Favourite places to shop: Depop, Vintage stores ASOS collusion,

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Figure 21

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BRAND OVERVIEW. Urban Outfitters was founded in 1970 under the name of ‘Free People’. The original store was opened in a small space across the street from the University of Pennsylvania with a mission to “provide second-hand clothing and home décor for college-aged customers in a casual fun environment” (URBN, 2020). Today, the brand operates over 200 stores, “known for its offbeat, youthful aesthetic, the retailer’s proposition spans womenswear, menswear, homeware and gifting” (Sutherland, 2019).

Urban outfitters actively maintain their original mantra of appealing to college age students as a creative lifestyle brand. Thus, highlighting the apropros of the UO brand and advancing ‘gender inclusive’ lifestyle trend, both through the appeal to the youthful consumer and cultural understanding.

No two store window displays are ever merchandised the same at Urban Outfitters – each one is creatively designed and individual to that location in order to produce a consumption space for like-minded creative individuals; sharing customer values and interests (URBN, 2020).

Urban Outfitters positions itself towards the premium end of the youth market (see Figure 23), creating a product proposition consumers cannot find anywhere else (Sutherland, 2019). To appeal to its haven of early adopters, Urban Outfitters give consumers the opportunity to combine fashion forward, own-brand pieces and off-the-wall streetwear labels with affordable designer diffusion ranges (Walker, 2012).

High price

Older consumer

Younger consumer

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Figure 23

Low price

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TREND CONCEPT

To unite the conducted research with the ‘Gen-clusive’ lifestyle trend, target consumer and Urban Outfitters brand, the trend concept ‘Egalitarian’ is created for Spring/Summer 2021.

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EGALITARIAN 34

‘Egalitarian’ is a term describing the ideology and belief in the equality of all people, this concept is centred around the social advancement in acceptance of, and desire for, gender equality. This term connotes feelings of empowerment as all individuals are seen as equals within society.

As the volume of Gen Z consumers embracing this attitude increases, an exponential growth in androgynous dressing is being seen, “mens and womenswear is increasingly take cues from each other, the lines dividing both categories are dissipating” (DeLeon, 2016).

Urban Outfitters brand ethos is centred around its creative, (current) nature, enabling the store to consistently appeal to its target audience. In order to achieve continued loyalty of this demographic, Urban Outfitters must align their marketing strategy to their changing desires. 63% of Gen Z agree they have many choices of where to shop (Alliance Data, 2018), making the loyalty of this customer base difficult to retain. A unisex capsule or ‘genderless’ collection can be identified as an opportunity for the brand, which currently still incorporate a ridged binary style selection. The target market and brand ethos of Urban Outfitters offers a new stage for a narrative driven by inclusive design.

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TREND MOOD.

S/S 2021

The mood for Spring/Summer 2021 is inclusivity; the curation of a collection that is genderless, colourful and accepting. The colours of this capsule have been selected through the analysis of the WGSN colour reports to align with the UO consumer: culturally sophisticated and self-expressive (Urban Outfitters, 2019).

The chosen fabrics and patterns of this collection must also be reflective of this.

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BOLD BRIGHTS. Figure 40 - 47 40

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PROUD PALES. Figure 48 - 68 48

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COLOUR VISION.

“If Fashion were a song, colour would be the beat.”

- Fran Keenan, Saks

The colour concepts and collection silhouettes set the mood for this trend. Bold colours are combined with loosely fitting shapes to curate genderless pieces that can be worn by all.

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Pantone 16-1359 TCX Pantone 18-4528 TCX

MARMALADE

FORBIDDEN FOREST

SULTRY SATSUMA

Pantone 18-1662 TCX

Pantone 14-1064 TCX Pantone 17-5541 TCX

ACCENT COLOURS.

FIRE & DESIRE

AQUAMARINE

The accent colours of this trend are indirectly influenced by the Pride flag. These eccentric colours do not conform to specific gender boundaries, expressing the bold zeitgeist of this lifestyle trend. As Boddy (2019) states; “for S/S 21 Orange hues emerge as a key seasonal colour, with gender-neutral appeal. Whilst Blues are set to have strong commercial success”.

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Pantone 11-0618 TCX

Pantone 13-3805 TCX

Pantone 12-0915 TCX

Pantone 14-4620 TCX

CORE COLOURS.

MELLOW LEMON

ACID BLUE

Pantone 14-1318 TCX

MUTED PEACH

WASHED LAVENDER

ROSE Pastels in their traditional sense will not be the focus for S/S 21, the newness will be in softer tinted tones influenced by washed hues and natural dyes (Boddy, 2019). This season sees the rise of ‘powdery palettes’ comprised of acid wash pastel colours such as ‘Rose’ and ‘Muted Peach’.

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BLEACH WASH

Pantone 11-4001 TCX

STEEL BLUE

Pantone 15-4020 TCX

Pantone 17-4021 TCX

DENIM TONES.

ECRU

Flat Indigo mid-shades such as ‘Steel Blue’ update retro inspired denim, whilst pale Blues and lighter tones such as ‘Bleach Wash’ and ‘Ecru’ provide directional fashion-focused looks (Kurazawa, 2019). For S/S 21 softer tinted tones are influenced by washed hues, these tones will sit well with cool modern blues as seen in the denim colour palette.

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YARNS & FABRICS.

S/S 2021

Yarns and fabrics determine the comfort and fit of a garment, while simultaneously contributing to the overall aesthetic (Boorady, 2011).

“Today’s younger consumer demands products with improved functionalities and quality” (Chattopadhyay, 2008 p.179). The selected fabrics for this capsule are comprised of those that have been used in previous collections (see Appendix D), as well as new innovative materials.

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CORE FABRICS. Cotton

Recycled Cotton

Nylon

As one of the most commonly used fabrics by Urban Outfitters alongside polyester (see Appendix D), Cotton is chemically organic meaning it does not contain any synthetic compounds (Hodakel, 2020a).

Cotton fibres are strong, dye absorbent and can stand against abrasion wear making it a durable, suitable material for the active young consumer of UO (Muthu, 2019).

Comfortability is an inherent characteristic of cotton made clothing; many prefer cotton fabrics for relaxed clothing such as the ‘Essential Hoodie and Jogger’ of this collection.

Recycled Cotton is a sustainable material already used by Urban Outfitters for denim collections (See appendix D).

Recycled Cotton converts Cotton fabric into Cotton fibre. Through this process the amount of energy, water, and dye use is reduced from using a product that has already been processed thus making it more sustainable (Cottonworks, 2020). Replacing just 20% of the cotton in denim with fibres from post-consumer sources, can save up to 500 litres of water per garment (Chua, 2018).

A material often used in the production of jackets and trousers by UO; Nylon is a tough material that is difficult to tear, exhibiting abrasion resistance whilst being repellent of oils, solvents and alcohols (Christensen, 2018).

Nylon is a fibre that is easy to care for – easy to wash and quick drying, a material well suited therefore to the Generation Z UO consumer.

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Figure 74 - 79 (Far left to right)

Polyester

Modal

Sheer

Polyester is a popular fabric used by UO, its resistance to stretching, wrinkling and abrasion has made it a staple fabric in the textile industry (Hwang et al, 2013). These fibres are lightweight yet strong as well as being easy to dye, qualities that each make polyester an attractive material for this brightly coloured collection.

Modal is a semi-synthetic fabric (Brogan, 2020) currently used in the production of Urban Outfitters own brand basics (see Appendix D).

Modal is a great fabric for everyday clothes due to its breathable weave. As WGSN (2019) states: “use recycled synthetic blends and cellulose yarns to update jersey-led casual styling”. Modal is designed to absorb dye and thus stay colour-fast, making it a popular choice for bold coloured garments (Hodakel, 2020b), similar to those of this collection.

For S/S 21, sheer fabrics continue to trend – updated by vibrant colours, as seen in this capsule (Casey, 2020). Sheers uptrend across both catwalks and street style, and are key for tops this season (Watkins, 2020). Both sheer and mesh fabrics are commonplace in UO collections (see Appendix D) oftentimes comprised of polyester yarns.

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KEY SILHOUETTES.

The key silhouettes for Spring/Summer 2021 are oversized; for design (under)statements, themes of relaxed fit and utility details are key (Ketteniss, 2019). These shapes relate to the trend concept: Egalitarian, focusing on silhouettes that can be worn by all and shapes that suit both the male and female body.

These silhouettes are tailored to the Gen Z consumer of the UO brand, whom today believe “soft fabrics and oversized outfits are the new cool� (Danao, 2020), see also Appendix A.

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COMPLETE RANGE PLAN.

Essential Hoodie Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Yellow, Orange, Coral, Forest, Aqua Fabric: 60% Cotton / 40% Polyester Fabric care: Machine wash at 40° Selling price: £40

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Essential Jogger Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Yellow, Orange, Coral, Forest, Aqua Fabric: 60% Cotton / 40% Polyester Fabric care: Machine wash at 40° Selling price: £36

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Boxy T-Shirt Size: S / M / L Colour: Yellow, Orange, Coral, Forest, Aqua Fabric: 100% Cotton Fabric care: Machine wash at 40° Selling price: £24

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High Rise Long Sleeve Top Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Aqua, Yellow, Coral Fabric: 70% Polyester / 30% Modal Fabric care: Machine wash at 30°, Do not tumbledry Selling price: £28

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Nylon Track Pant Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Lemon, Acid Blue, Washed Lavender Fabric: 100% Nylon Fabric care: Machine wash at 40° Selling price: £45

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Fitted Waffle Tee Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Lemon, Acid Blue, Washed Lavender Fabric: 100% Waffle construct Cotton Fabric care: Machine wash at 30° Selling price: £20

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Sheer Asymmetric Top Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Peach, Rose, Lavender Fabric: 95% Polyester, 5% Elastane Fabric care: Machine wash at 30° Do not tumbledry Selling price: £26

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Utility Denim Jumpsuit Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Steel Blue, Ecru Fabric: 100% Recycled Cotton Fabric care: Machine wash at 30° Selling price: £45

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Wide Leg Jeans Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Ecru & Washed Bleach panelling Fabric: 100% Recycled Cotton Fabric care: Machine wash at 40° Selling price: £52

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Denim Trucker Jacket & Jean co-ord Size: XS / S / M / L Colour: Steel Blue, Ecru Fabric: 100% Recycled Cotton Fabric care: Machine wash at 30° Selling price: Jacket £70, Jean £55

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Figure 93

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MARKETING SUGGESTIONS.

S/S 2021

The marketing communications of this collection must be integrated in order to deliver a unified message through various platforms (Ercis, 2011). This capsule collection should be promoted to create awareness, interest, desire and action whilst ensuring the message of inclusivity remains pertinent.

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Figure 94

VISUAL MERCHANDISING. “The ever-evolving shopping habits of Gen Z means that remaining relevant to this core demographic can prove to be a challenge” (Hendricksz, 2016). The visual merchandising of Urban Outfitters works to create its own in store theatre of ‘shops within shops’ to give customers that synergy between the webstore and the instore experience. The marketing of this collection must align with the ‘creative’ nature of the UO brand.

The merchandising of the S/S 21‘Egalitarian’ unisex collection therefore shall follow suit; a line merchandised separately from that of the current male and female collections found in store.

This unisex collection shall be merchandised at the front of each store, the bold colouring of the garments shall capture Gen Z consumers, whilst also curating an accepting, inclusive spirit. After all, Generation Z enjoy colour and ‘pop’ and shy away from sparse white space. Stores that have minimal merchandise in a sterile environment are not appealing to this group (Hudson, 2019).

As an already well-established brand, the need for printed media and adverts is minimalised. The use of social media marketing is paramount in targeting the Generation Z consumer, with the average young person spending 4 hours a day on social media (Dooley, 2019). Urban Outfitters hold over 9 million followers across social media platforms (Mcl, 2019), it is therefore essential that these platforms are exploited to market the new collection through content and influencer marketing.

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Figure 95 - 96

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EXPERIENTAL MARKETING.

As Hudson (2019) states, “technology must drive the shopping experience�. All products merchandised in store shall have a QR code attached to the price label, allowing consumers to unlock an exclusive Instagram stories filter, whilst also entering a prize draw to win an Urban Outfitters gift card. A method to enforce mutual benefit to both the consumer and the brand, through greater online exposure.

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Figure 97

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CONCLUSION. This trend forecast report presents well-researched evidence for the Urban Outfitters brand to exploit in the creation of a new S/ S21 unisex capsule collection. Aligning with the ‘Gen-clusive’ lifestyle trend, the collection promotes unity, whilst directly appealing to the current consumer of Urban Outfitters. The ability to calculate future trends is integral to the maximisation of a business’s profits (Kim et al, 2011) whilst simultaneously elevating the competitive advantage of the brand.

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APPENDICES.

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APPEDIX A.

Rodgers Theory of Diffusion (1962)

Rodgers theory of diffusion and innovation explains how, over time an ideology or trend gains momentum and diffuses through a social system (Singer, 2020). Arguably, this trend remains in the early stages of the model continually being pushed through society by Gen Z, referred to as early adopters, as pictured in the diagram.

Figure 100

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Figure - 101

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APPEDIX B. Focus group 3 In-depth interviews were carried out with individuals who support and carry the ‘Gen-Clusive’ lifestyle trend...

Interview 1 Amelia Wood | 20 University of Leeds student Can you tell me about yourself?

I’m 20, a student at the University of Leeds studying International relations. I enjoy going out, partying – maybe too much… but I also feel very passionately about my studies; I enjoy my degree and a hold keen interest in both British and American politics.

What are your aspirations/goals for when you finish university?

I hope to leave University next year with at least a 2:1. I’m currently considering the option of completing a Master’s in Business management or Marketing as I hope to move into the sector of marketing on the completion of my studies.

What is your current home/living arrangement?

During term time, I live in Leeds in a student house with 8 other girls – its fun! Yet home for me is Manchester, where I live with my mum, dad, two brothers and dog Eric.

Do you have a job at university?

(Laughs) No, I don’t. However, I’m often reminded by my mum that I should get one.

What do you do on a day to day basis?

My daily routine often changes week on week. During term time my days are rather unscheduled; I wake up in time for my lecture (most of the time), I’ll then meet my friends for lunch or a coffee before heading to the library. In the evenings I like to relax, that’s if I’m not heading on a night out! At the weekends I often head home back to Manchester where I’ll go out for shopping and lunch dates with my mum or friends.

What would you say are your main hobbies and interests?

I enjoy watching the latest series on Netflix; I’m currently watching and loving Power. I also enjoy watching YouTube channels and keeping up to date with social media - online shopping is definitely my biggest form of procrastination though.

In which clothing stores do you spend the most money?

I think my wardrobe displays an eclectic mix of items. I would say most of my clothes are bought from Urban Outfitters, however I also have many pieces from vintage stores in and around Leeds. Recently I’ve found a love for the Collusion line of ASOS, I enjoy the unisex aspect of the items as well as the great value prices! I do love to find gems on Depop; I think it’s important to shop at a range of stores and resale sites to encourage greater variety in clothing as well as longevity as sustainability of garments.

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How would you describe your style?

I’d describe my style as pretty relaxed, during term time I tend to live in comfy clothes – I would say I dress for comfort but aim to look relatively put together and “on trend” whilst doing so.

I enjoy wearing hoodies and joggers and love an oversized tee; I find the best place to find these is often in the men’s section of stores.

Would you say you follow fashion trends?

Hm, I guess I do as, as I said previously, I like to see what other people are wearing and mix these styles. Although, I don’t really shop with fast fashion brands like Missguided, Boohoo or Pretty Little Thing which I feel offer the most current ‘styles’. I much prefer vintage shop finds which I guess aren’t really displaying current trends.

You said earlier you like to shop in the men’s section or unisex collections, would you say that the fashion industry is inclusive; in terms of gender?

I guess not, I don’t really abide by the general rules of male/female dressing and fashion, so I guess the clothing offered is not particularly inclusive and is still divided by genders. The marketing of garments is definitely not inclusive in my opinion, very few brands employ trans gender models or gender-neutral marketing of garments.

I agree. If a brand was to offer a unisex line would it attract you to shop more with them?

Yes, if it was suited to my style, I would definitely be willing to shop with them. As I said, the collusion line of ASOS has really led me to spend more money with that store.

In general, how do you think the fashion industry could improve the gender divide in clothing?

I think so many more brands should offer unisex clothing, or at least a unisex collection. I think brands could appeal to so many more people if they were inclusive of each and ever gender.

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Interview 2 Lucas Williams | 21 University of Brighton student Tell me a bit about yourself…

Erm I’m Lucas, just turned 21. I study History of Art at the University of Brighton. I’m originally from Central London but much prefer it here by sea! I run a lifestyle blog; Lucas’ life which I love to produce daily content for.

What is your current living arrangement?

So here in Brighton I live with three girls and one other guy in a student house. At home, in London, I live with my mum and dad.

Do you have a job at all, or would you consider yourself a full-time student?

I do have a little job here; it doesn’t earn me too much money, but I do it for the social aspect.

I work at the bar in the student union which I love, it’s such a great way to meet people and socialise whilst also giving me spare cash to spend on even more socialising!

What are your aspirations upon finishing University?

I love my degree and am extremely reluctant to accept the fact that I finish Uni this year. When I do finish, I’d love to take a year or so out; I want to travel. Id also love to spend some time working in the florist as one day I would love to take over the family business. For now though, I’m just looking towards the near future; finishing my degree and enjoying my last summer in Brighton with all my friends.

What’s your passion? Any hobbies/interests?

As social sec for the LGBTQ society at Uni, I hold a great passion in organising meetings and coffee mornings, as well as bar crawls for fellow members. My greatest interest is keeping my blog up to date; posting my artwork and discussing matters regarding the LGBTQ community.

I also like to post summaries of my day and recommendations for past times in and around Brighton as well as finding the best places to eat and drink here.

What’s your usual daily routine?

I try to aim to be out of bed by 10 o’clock latest, I often head straight to Uni where I enjoy spending the first few hours of my day in the art workshop, I then head to my lectures – these are only ever two hours a day. After this, I’ll head to the Student Union, whether I have work or not; I like to spend most of my time here, doing work but mainly catching up with friends. I like to treat myself to dinner out a few evenings a week, which also provides me with content for my blog. If I’m not going out, I try to make a healthy dinner and update my blog with a new post.

Would you say you are interested in fashion?

Yes, I do take an interest in how I dress, I wouldn’t say it’s the thing I invest most of my time or money in, but I do enjoy putting together outfits. I love visiting the vintage stores in the Lanes of Brighton, I tend to head there every Saturday – I love retro pieces that I can get super cheap.

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What is your most worn clothing item?

I think that’d be a vintage pair of Levi’s I’ve had for years, I love them! I kind of have a few staple items of clothes that I wear all the time and just pair with different things – they would deffo be one. My go to look is usually a pair of baggy style jeans with an oversized tee or hoodie.

How often do you shop with Urban Outfitters?

Hm I wouldn’t say I shop with them often, I probably own 2/3 T-shirts from there and maybe a Champion jumper I bought from there a few years back.

Would you consider Urban outfitters to be an inclusive brand?

If you mean inclusive in terms of race and ethnicity, then I guess so. However, in terms of gender and the LGBTQ community I do feel as though urban could do more to offer greater inclusion. This could be through erm, a greater use of LGBTQ models; particularly trans models, similar to ASOS (Collusion).

Urban outfitters would greatly benefit from a unisex line in my opinion, this could open new markets for the brand as they will appeal to a greater number of consumers; especially Gen Y and Z individuals.

Do you think the fashion industry is inclusive in terms of Gender, Gender equality and gender representation?

Not entirely inclusive no. I very much feel that a lot of minority groups are not equally represented in the fashion industry. Whilst I believe it’s fair to suggest that some hight street brands such as Asos as well as more luxury brands such as Burberry and Jeremy Scott are taking necessary steps towards greater inclusion, there are still, many that fall very far behind in terms of following in new movements of gender inclusion – Victoria’s Secret for example.

I think in terms of clothing we are able to wear what we want how we want; as a guy, I could shop in women’s sections and vice versa however I feel like brands could do more to blur the lines between the gender divide in clothing. Whilst there is greater wider acceptance of the blurring of gender boundaries and gender fluidity; I still believe there is a long way to go before the fashion industry experiences total gender equality.

How could gender equality be improved?

I feel like as a member of the LGBTQ community, a brand could easily cause a greater desire for individuals like myself to shop there, by simply using more inclusive models. If, for example I was to hear that a brand had use a trans model in a new promotional campaign, it would make me much more inclined to browse their store or view their product offering online. This inclusion therefore, can be seen as a statement within the industry, a stance that would turn consumers heads, drawing positive media attention to the brand. I think that the blurring between the strict lines of male/female dressing would also improve the gender equality issue in the fashion world, representing and appealing to a wider audience.

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Interview 3 Poppy Thompson | 22 Philosophy Graduate Tell me a bit about yourself Poppy…

So, I’m Poppy, I’m 23 and graduated from University of Exeter last year with a degree in philosophy. I grew up in West London and am currently living back at home whilst I search for a grad job. Following my graduation, I’ve been travelling around South America before travelling to Canada to complete a ski season, it been a fab year!

What’re your plans now?

I’m currently looking for a job in central London, I want to work in marketing and so have been applying for a few roles with companies like YouTube and John Lewis – I have a few interviews coming up which is exciting. Since I’ve been back from travelling, I’ve been working in my local pub, whilst living at home with my mum, dad and younger brother. I hope to move to London to fulfil a role in marketing by this summer.

What do you do on a day to day basis?

Given my hectic year I feel like I haven’t really had a proper daily schedule or daily routine since leaving uni! Some days I’ll be in London, usually shopping or meeting my friends in their lunch breaks. I also enjoy reading and find it a great past time I’m currently reading a book called the Bell Jar which I’m enjoying As much as I hate to admit it, I do also spend a lot of my time on social media, I enjoy following fitness accounts as well as fashion inspiration.

Okay. Let’s talk a bit about fashion… How would you describe your style?

Hm, I think my style is pretty feminine yet current. I love to wear skirts and dresses yet mix them with trainers or a big hoodie. I like to add a less feminine, more edgy style to a pretty dress for example.

Where would you say you buy most of your clothes?

I like to shop at & Other Stories, Weekday (often for hoodies), Depop (mainly for vintage style skirts and dresses), I also recently started shopping a bit more at Urban Outfitters; I love their retro style.

Would you describe the industry as gender inclusive?

No absolutely not. I feel like the fashion industry is actually very far behind in terms of gender inclusion, especially in comparison to the beauty and skincare industry for example. It’s very rare to see the inclusion of trans gender or non-binary models within the industry. Also, the market is still very rigid in terms of male and female clothing, there are not many Highstreet brands that blur gender lines. There are very few unisex clothing lines which allow people to dress how they want without feeling judged or out of place.

I agree. Would you consider buying from a unisex collection?

Yes totally. I would not be put off purchasing from somewhere if the item was placed in a unisex ‘section’ of the store rather than simply the men’s/women’s section.

Would it drive you to shop with the store more?

I guess so, as long as the styles they were producing suited me. I think it would definitely drive other people to shop with the brand more than they do so already, offering unisex styles would definitely enable the brand to appeal to a wider target market.

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APPEDIX C. Customer persona These 3 In-depth interviews have been utilised to create a consumer persona:

The life of Elvie Elvie, 20 is a student at the University of Brighton where she studies Philosophy, Politics and Ethics (PPE). Originally from London, she moved to Brighton 2 years ago when she started Uni-versity – she loves the relaxed vibe of the city, but also the fact she isn’t too far from home.

During term time, Elvie has a ‘relaxed’ part time job at the Student Union coffee shop – it doesn’t earn her too much money, but she enjoys the social aspect of the job. When uni finish-es, Elvie enjoys going home to her family in London, whereby she helps out at the family owned florist on Portobello Road.

Elvie comes from a middle-class background in North West London, her mum runs the florist whilst her dad works in the city – what she describes as a great contrast. Her parents hold con-flicting political views which led Elvie to build her own opinion on societal and political issues, leading her to a great interest in gender equality and inclusivity. Her passion for her studies in PPE has influenced Elvie’s decision to join the LGBTQ+ and feminist society at uni whereby she is actively involved in the planning of social activities.

Day to day, Elvie enjoys spending time on campus, meeting up with friends for coffee or brows-ing the lanes for the latest vintage finds. ‘The life of Elvie’ is a lifestyle blog ran by Elvie, whereby she enjoys finding and sharing hotspots in Brighton, her latest fashion finds and also describes as “an outlet for my anger towards the gender inequality within today’s society” Adopting a work hard play hard attitude, Elvie enjoys going out at the weekend and spending her ‘hungover Sundays’ on the pier by the seaside.

Elvie describes her style as “relaxed retro”, on a daily basis she finds herself wearing the same pair of vintage Levi jeans and an oversized sweatshirt. Elvie looks to buy pieces that will last her season upon season, as a student she cannot afford to buy into fast fashion trends and prefers staple pieces that she will get her wear out of. Elvie enjoys shopping online for ease, but also browsing vintage stores as a past time.

Upon finishing uni next year, Elvie hopes to travel South America with her friends, before secur-ing a well-paid job – hopefully back home in London. An ambitious and curious individual: Elvie wants to experience the world before pursuing her career in a role that will hopefully influence the disparity in equality across the globe.

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APPEDIX D. Garment Composition.

A table presenting the composition of garments produced for Urban Outfitters S/S20 collection.

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APPEDIX E.

Weekly progress analysis.

Each week an analysis of performance was completed in order to document the challenges, wins and plans for future actions.

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FIGURE LIST. Front & Back cover image Urban Outfitters Instagram. 2018. Meet the tee family. [Online]. [Accessed 6 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.facebook.com/urbanoutfitters/photos Logo (Page 2) Kennide. 2020. Urban Outfitters. [Online]. [Accessed 6 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.cleanpng. com/png-urban-outfitters-westfarms-hoodie-retail-clothing-1833251/ Figure 1 - UO Blog. 2020. UO Love stories: The Gardens Wyatt and Fletcher Shears. [Online]. [Accessed 6 April 2020]. Available from: https://blog.urbanoutfitters.com/blog/the_gardens_wyatt_and_fletcher_ shears?cm_re=Blog_Content-_-B2-_-the_gardens_wyatt_and_fletcher_shears Figure 2 - UO Blog. 2020. UO Love stories: The Gardens Wyatt and Fletcher Shears. [Online]. [Accessed 6 April 2020]. Available from: https://blog.urbanoutfitters.com/blog/the_gardens_wyatt_and_fletcher_ shears?cm_re=Blog_Content-_-B2-_-the_gardens_wyatt_and_fletcher_shears Figure 3 - Urban Outfitters. 2020. Best Match Baby Tee. [Online]. [Accessed 4 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/shop/best-match-baby-tee?category=graphic-tees-for-women&color=040&type=REGULAR Figure 4 - Wilcox, E. 2017. Urban Outfitters Mens Summer Campaign 17. [Online]. [Accessed 21 April 2020].

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Figure 30 - Urban Outfitters. 2020. Woofie Pet Selfie + Portrait Tool. [Online]. [Accessed 19 April 2020].

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Figure 84 – WGSN. 2018. Extreme Jogger. [Online]. [Accessed 23 April 2020]. Available from: https://www. wgsn.com/library/results/15150693470eba2ef43dc3b92d0ad6e9/wide%20leg%20jogger Figure 85 – Zagor, N. 2019. The Boxy minimalist Tee. [Online]. [Accessed 1 April 2020]. Available from: https:// www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/85570/page/6 Figure 86 – WGSN. 2018 Must Haves Pre-Fall. [Online]. [Accessed 21 April 2020]. Available from: https://www. wgsn.com/library/results/15150693470eba2ef43dc3b92d0ad6e9/jogger Figure 87 – WGSN. 2020. Trippy Tourist Mock Neck. [Online]. [Accessed 21 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/library/results/1320235c0d9a49d33f50c1c0a36e2777/knit Figure 88 – WGSN. 2020. Asymmetric top. [Online]. [Accessed 21 April 2020]. Available from: https://www. wgsn.com/library/results/1320235c0d9a49d33f50c1c0a36e2777/asymmetric%20top Figure 89 – WGSN. 2020. Men’s concept trucker. [Online]. [Accessed 23 April 2020]. Available from: https:// www.wgsn.com/library/results/15150693470eba2ef43dc3b92d0ad6e9/jeans Figure 90 – WGSN. 2020. Straight leg jean. [Online]. [Accessed 23 April 2020]. Available from: https://www. wgsn.com/library/results/15150693470eba2ef43dc3b92d0ad6e9/jeans Figure 91 – WGSN. 2019. Utility Boilersuit. [Online]. [Accessed 21 April 2020]. Available from: https://www. wgsn.com/library/results/15150693470eba2ef43dc3b92d0ad6e9/jumpsuit Figure 92 – WGSN. 2018. Panelled Flare. [Online]. [Accessed 23 April 2020]. Available from: https://www. wgsn.com/library/results/15150693470eba2ef43dc3b92d0ad6e9/wide%20leg%20jean Figure 93 - Pinterest. 2020. No name. [Online]. [Accessed 17 April 2020]. Available from: https://i.pinimg. com/originals/1d/cc/ed/1dccedb8ddf168c52b41183c5aa62231.jpg Figure 94 - Urban Outfitters. 2019. UO Community cares tee, PRIDE 2019. [Online]. [Accessed 17 April 2020].

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Figure 103 – Tapert, B. 2020. Girl on California coastline. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2020]. Available from: https://unsplash.com/photos/rmWAZkJ6NaA Figure 104 - Subagja, R. 2018. Sunday vibes. [Online]. [Accessed 24 April 2020]. Avaailable from: https://unsplash.com/photos/xkVwdYVFmSg Figure 105 - Urban outfitters. 2020. Iets Frans Sage jogger. [Online]. [Accessed 4 April 2020]. Available from:https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb/shop/iets-frans-sage-joggers?category=womens-loungewear&color=237&type=REGULAR Figure 106 - Urban Outfitters. 2020. UO Tie Dye Nylon joggers. [Online]. [Accessed 4 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb/shop/uo-tie-dye-nylon-joggers?category=SEARCHRESULTS&color=066 Figure 107 - Urban Outfitters. 2020. UO Reimage T-shirt. [Online]. [Accessed 4 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb/shop/uo-reimagine-t-shirt?category=mens-tshirts&color=055&type=REGULAR Figure 108 - Urban Outfitters. 2020. UO Celestial print mesh top. [Online]. [Accessed 4 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb/shop/uo-celestial-tarot-print-mesh-top?category=womens-tops&color=055&type=REGULAR Figure 109 - Urban Outfitters. 2020. UO Psych Fest mesh sheer long sleeve top. [online]. [Accessed 4 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb/shop/uo-pysch-fest-mesh-long-sleeve-top?category=womens-tops&color=060&type=REGULAR Figure 110 - Urban Outfitters. 2020. UO Basic textured T-shirt. [Online]. [Accessed 4 April 2020]. Available from: https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb/shop/uo-textured-t-shirt?category=easter-edit-womens&color=010&type=REGULAR Figure 111 - Urban Outfitters. 2020. Iets Frans Seamless ribbed Cami. [Online]. [Accessed 4 April 2020].

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