Flamingo Magazine by Flamingo Magazine

No.

BATTLE OF THE BLING : LUXE NFL STADIUM MATCHUP

THE

Arts & Culture

ISSUE

For Floridians. By Floridians.

WAYS TO GET CULTURED

M US I C IAN S, M O V I E S, M US E U M S & M O R E

D irector

BARRY JENKINS RETURNS HOME

SONGS k THE SEA: THE MUSIC INSPIRED BY JIMMY BUFFETT

UPLAND SHOOT DOWN IN OKEECHOBEE

GREGG ALLMAN His Life P Final Album

8 YEARS OF CRAFTSMANSHIP F O R A R E F I N E D TA S T E .

Crafted first in 1862, BACARDĂ? 8 AĂ&#x2018;OS is aged under the Caribbean sun for a minimum of 8 years. The result is a complex and layered rum, with each batch hitting the right notes of oak, apricot, nutmeg and butterscotch. This amber sipping rum is perfect for special occasions. It can be served on its own or as the base for outstanding cocktails such as the Rum Old Fashioned.

LIVE PASSIONATELY. DRINK RESPONSIBLY. ©2017. BACARDÍ, ITS TRADE DRESS, THE BAT DEVICE AND BACARDI UNTAMEABLE ARE TRADEMARKS OF BACARDI & COMPANY LIMITED. BACARDI U.S.A., INC., CORAL GABLES, FL. RUM - 40% ALC. BY VOL.

— fall 2017 —

CONTENTS

F E AT U R E S

ONE LAST MIDNIGHT RIDE B Y S T E V E D O L LA R

LIFE, LIBERTY AND THE PURSUIT OF FILMMAKING B Y S T E V E D O L LA R

GONE COASTAL B Y K AT I E HENDRICK

OUTSIDE THE BOX BY BETTY CORTINA-WEISS

UPLAND SCRUB BY MICHAEL ADNO

The story of the gulf and western music genre, started 46 years ago by Jimmy Buffett in Key West. Meet the new generation of musicians carrying on the tropical tradition.

Inside the most luxurious game-day experiences at the stadiums of Florida’s three NFL teams and a guide to hitting these football towns properly—win or lose

Barry Jenkins, the director of Oscarwinning Moonlight, returns to his home state, inspiring young filmmakers.

Cover Photography by SIDNEY SMITH On the cover: A young Gregg Allman at the Capricorn Summer Picnic, near Macon, Georgia, in the summer of 1974 This page: Steel drum player John Patti relaxes at the Nav-A-Gator Bar & Grill in Arcadia.

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The secrets of a hunting haven in Okeechobee, fostered by a South Florida tycoon, where Sunshine State sportsmen find the best wingshooting, wild game and more

MARY BETH KOETH

A look at Gregg Allman’s final album, Southern Blood, and his Florida roots, with stories of the late legend’s music and life from his loved ones

D E PA R T M E N TS

WADING IN 12 /// THE SPREAD: The iconic Emilio and Gloria Estefan share the delicious Cuban sandwich and avocado salad recipes they enjoy when not making music.

COLUMNS 35 /// C APITAL DAME: Diane Roberts dissects why brilliant writers are lured to the Sunshine State.

ON THE FLY 93 /// PLUME: John Hemingway on his family legacy, South Florida upbringing and future endeavors in writing and rum

15 /// FLAMINGLE: A talented crop of Florida artists dance, paint and sing their way to the top of their creative classes. 18 /// M ADE IN FLA: Fashion designers with an artful eye for shoes, clothes and handbags 24 /// O NE-ON-ONE: John Driskell Hopkins of Zac Brown Band talks about his musical beginnings 31 /// J UST HATCHED: Fabulous new restaurants, boutiques and hotels

86 /// MY FLORIDA: Prissy Elrod on the return of the yellow bikini, her daddy’s fishing cabin and Oscar night in Tallahassee 98 /// F LORIDA WILD: Carlton Ward Jr. sees Florida’s longleaf pines through a new lens.

96 /// THE STUDIO: Artist Dustin Harewood in the round 100 /// G ROVE STAND: Down home with David Benstock of Il Ritorno 104 /// BIRD’S-EYE VIEW: Our hit-list of where to go and what to do in St. Pete 105 /// THE ROOST: High-end hotel homes 108 /// T HE TIDE: Road trip–worthy events 112 /// FLORIDIANA: Vizcaya, from extravagant home to historic museum in Miami

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ay 27 was a sunny spring day in North Florida. I was excited to see Tedeschi Trucks Band christen Jacksonville’s Daily’s Place amphitheater by performing on its opening night. Local guitar virtuoso Derek Trucks helms the 12-member band with his wife, Susan Tedeschi, and I was lucky enough to interview the couple for Flamingo last fall. Around midday, sad news broke: The legendary Southern rocker Gregg Allman had died. So began what would become an emotional and epic night of music. Trucks, 38, spent 15 years of his long and impressive career playing guitar in the Allman Brothers Band. That night, Tedeschi Trucks Band opened and closed the show with Allman tributes. Tears streamed down the cheeks of fans in the audience as Trucks wailed on his slide guitar, performing a solo of “Amazing Grace.” Gregg Allman had his own ties to Florida and to Jacksonville. Forty-eight years ago, he and his brother Duane started the Allman Brothers Band in a house not far from where Daily’s Place now stands. When I learned that the release of Allman’s final album, Southern Blood, would coincide with the publication of Flamingo’s arts and culture issue, there was no question about what our cover story had to be. Floridians embrace Allman as one of our own because he grew up in Daytona, started the band in Jax and lived on Anna Maria Island for years. But Allman’s music is just one of the countless cultural treasures that emerged from or was inspired by our state. Steve Dollar, who writes about the Midnight Rider in this issue, also interviewed Miami

native and Moonlight director Barry Jenkins. In her piece on legendary writers, columnist Diane Roberts dissects what it is about Florida that has captivated literary greats like Ernest Hemingway, Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings and Edwidge Danticat. And Katie Hendrick goes coastal, exploring the musical influence of adopted Floridian Jimmy Buffett. Our story on Buffett’s trop rock legacy took us to a remote dive bar in Arcadia. The Nav-A-Gator has become somewhat of a home stage for singer-songwriters following the trail blazed by the son of a son of a sailor 40 years ago. In addition to music, film and books, we also turn the spotlight on talented Florida painters and sculptors, in Flamingo’s new department, The Studio. Fall feels like the perfect time to nourish the soul with a trip to an art gallery, concert hall, theater or, for some, a dive bar. It’s important to recognize, however, that Florida culture extends beyond museums (or dollar-billcovered walls), into the outdoors and onto our fields—football and quail fields, that is. In a nod to Floridians’ insatiable appetite for pigskin and upland game, we explore the finer side of NFL game day and go off-the-grid in the heart of Okeechobee. In the end, this issue is about connecting— with nature, an album, a book, a character, a performance and, for sure, with our fellow Floridians. Turn the page and enjoy the ride.

Editor in Ch ief & P u blish er

let us know what you think. Email me at jamie@flamingomag.com

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PHOTOGR APHY BY INGRID DAMIANI, ISTOCK; ST YLING BY ALIX ROBINSON

The Day The Music Lived

ISSUE

FLAMBOYANCE

For Floridians. By Floridians.

O UR FLO C K H AS S P OKEN

• FOUNDED IN 2016 •

— fa l l 20 1 7 — No .

ATTENTION BEACH LOVERS: THIS SUMMER’S MUST READ

THE

Travel

ISSUE

For Floridians. By Floridians.

FINDING PARADISE LAND SEA SKY WILD MAN

GABRIEL GRAY T H E U LT I M A T E E X P L O R E R RESCUES RIVERS ( and people)

FARE j

REMEMBER: WATERMELON SALAD MANGROVE SNAPPER & RHUBARB PIE

Exclusive:

Inside

JACKIE O’S PALM BEACH

GO N THE FLO

SEAPLANE SAFARI MICANOPY HAUNTS STUART STOPOVER

OUR NEXT GOVERNOR A ROWDY ROUND-UP

Somewhere on a beach! As I write this, I am sitting on Shoal Bay Beach in Anguilla. I just finished reading your magazine for the first time (randomly picked it up at Orlando Airport). We came to Anguilla from Vero Beach for our honeymoon. After reading your magazine about Sarasota, which we moved to from Vero Beach a year ago, makes me proud and a little less sad to be returning home. I look

forward to reading you again. P.S. I love the texture of the magazine. It’s perfect and not too flimsy for beach reading. Becky O’Donnell, Vero Beach thanks for the invite! First off, being a native Floridian born and raised in Jacksonville, I enjoy your magazine. Second, I found your article, “Take Me to the River” interesting—sounded like a great trip with the family! I live in Lake Asbury (Green Cove Springs), and I see you mentioned Sweet Sensations, a restaurant literally behind my restaurant on Walnut St. I’m tucked in between some antique shops. We have some of the best BBQ in North Florida, and possibly the Southeast! Come try for yourself—bring the family! Gary Parks, Middleburg [On “Micanopy” feature] I’ve lived in Gainesville for 20 years and had never

heard this story. Thank you for bringing it to light! Kim Taylor Kruse, Gainesville Heading to the Keys this week! Thanks for the suggestions on where to go! @judithraenyc Judith Rae, New York Great magazine. That’s why I subscribed to 10 years’ delivery. Haha! Sharon Goldman Ponte Vedra Beach I am so obsessed with your magazine. Outstanding work showcasing authentic Florida. Thank you! @sokossocial Eleni Sokos, Bradenton Your magazine is so amazing. (Of course, I’m impressed with this special article on Gabriel Gray since he’s our son.) Great work. Frances Gray, Tallahassee

Editor in Chief, Publisher, Founder JAMIE RICH jamie@flamingomag.com Consulting Creative Director Holly Keeperman holly@flamingomag.com Photo Editor and Senior Designer Ellen Patch ellen@flamingomag.com Contributing Editors: Jeanne Craig, Katie Hendrick Cont ributin g Writers Michael Adno, Jane Bianchi, Betty Cortina-Weiss, Steve Dollar, Prissy Elrod, Katie Hendrick, Nancy Klingener, Eva Nagorski, Laura Reiley, Maddy Zollo Rusbosin, Diane Roberts, Nila Simon, David Walker, Carlton Ward Jr. Contributing Photographers & Illustrators Beth Gilbert, Leslie Chalfont, Tom Corcoran, Ingrid Damiani, Robert M. Howard, Mary Beth Koeth, Stephen Lomazzo, Kelsey Magennis, Patricia O’Driscoll, Sidney Smith, Jack Spellman, Libby Volgyes, Carlton Ward Jr. Copy Editors & Fact Checkers Brett Greene, Katherine Shy Social Strategy Christina Clifford Partnerships Marcy Stoudt

Bird is the word.

Marketing & Promotions Annie Lee

Like us on Facebook @facebook.com/ flamingomag

Interns Grant de la Vasselais, Harry Jorgensen, Emily Orr, Nick Greco, Kelli Podany

Advertising Sales Robert Kohn, robert@flamingomag.com

and Twitter @TheFlamingoMag

Join the chatter.

General inquiries: ads@flamingomag.com Contact Us Phone: (904) 395-3272 Email: info@flamingomag.com TO GET A YEARLY SUBSCRIPTION (4 issues) go to flamingomag.com or send a $30 check made out to JSR Media LLC to P.O. Box 3253, Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32004 All content in this publication, including but not limited to text, photos and graphics, is the sole property of and copyrighted by JSR Media and Flamingo. Reproduction without permission from the publisher is prohibited. We take no responsibility for images or content provided by our advertisers.

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CONTRIBUTORS BETTY CORTINA-WEISS

believes salsa, both the kind eaten and the kind danced to, makes the world a better place. The South Floridian’s food and lifestyle stories have appeared in Saveur; People; O, The Oprah Magazine; Latina; and INDULGE magazine. In this issue of Flamingo, she explores the NFL’s finer side.

JACK SPELLMAN of Jacksonville has been drawing for a very long time. His illustrations have appeared in magazines such as ChemMatters and and in the Pumpus series of children’s books, which aim to introduce kids to science topics. He regularly illustrates Flamingo’s Capital Dame column.

LIBBY VOLGYES is an award-

winning food photographer in West Palm Beach. Her company, LibbyVision, specializes in evocative, stylized photos for magazines, restaurants and brands. She also donates her photography to No Kid Hungry. In this issue of Flamingo, she photographs Chef David Benstock of Il Ritorno in St. Petersburg.

Tallahassee native STEVE DOLLAR contributes to The Los Angeles Times, Billboard, The Washington Post, and many others. In this issue of Flamingo, he writes about Barry Jenkins, the director of Moonlight, and the late Gregg Allman’s final album. ABB’s At Fillmore East was one of his first record purchases.

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Sharing yerba mate in the traditional gourd is a way of life in South America.

Uniquely grown in its native forest environment, Guayaki Yerba Mate is cherished as a sacred beverage. Reach deep into yerba mate culture and you’ll discover people have long gathered to imbibe mate to awaken the mind, perform extraordinary feats and to exchange conﬁdences. Even Yari, the mythical goddess of mate decrees it the symbol of friendship. Guayakí’s vision holds that yerba mate culture will power our Market Driven Restoration™ model to regenerate ecosystems and create vibrant communities.

— f lor idians, far e, f inds —

WADING IN — THE SPREAD —

Latin flavor and flare with Emilio Estefan

— FLAMINGLE —

A superlative society of Floridians

— MADE IN FLA —

A gallery of fashion-forward designers

— ONE-ON-ONE —

Chatting with John Driskell Hopkins of Zac Brown Band

— JUST HATCHED —

MARY BETH KOETH

New places and spaces to explore now

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WADING IN :THE SPREAD FLO R RIDA-F IDA-F R ESH BITES & BEVS B y E va N a g o rsk i

Iconic Eats

ENTERTAINING ESTEFAN STYLE, WITH INSPIRATION FROM THE FAMOUS FAMILY’S UPSCALE CUBAN EATERY

usic superstars Emilio and Gloria Estefan have certainly found their rhythm in Miami. The Estefans own several restaurants and hotels and are constantly reinventing the way people enjoy an evening out. “Food and culture bring people together,” says Emilio. “I’m so happy we live in a country where we can bring who we are in music, in food.”

This page: Avocado

salad appetizer at Estefan Kitchen

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Their latest venture is Estefan Kitchen in Miami’s Design District. Chef Odell Torres uses organic ingredients to make everything from scratch. “Cuban food is simple,” says Emilio. “Garlic, lemon, onion, great seasoning.” Rooted in tradition, the recipes cater to both Cuban flavors and health-conscious sensibilities. “Things change,” he adds. “Years

Felipe Sardi

{La Palma y El Tucán} Cundinamarca, Colombia

OF [ THEBOLDFACES BEAN ]

This page: This simple

Cuban sandwich is a signature Estefan dish.

Avocado Salad

Cuban Sandwich

S e rv e s 1 – 2

1 1/2 Hass avocados, diced 2 tablespoons plum tomatoes, diced 2 tablespoons cucumber, diced 1 tablespoon red onions, diced 1/2 tablespoon cilantro, chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 teaspoon white balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 8-inch loaf of Cuban bread 4 slices of roasted pork 2 slices of Swiss cheese 4 slices of boiled ham 1 tablespoon yellow mustard 8 pickle slices 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

FELIPE CUEVAS

PREPARATION: Season avocado with olive oil, vinegar and salt. Place all ingredients together and mix. Mold into round shape and serve.

PREPARATION: Slice bread and spread with butter on both sides. Place ham, cheese, mustard, pickles and pork, in that order. Bake in oven at 350 degrees until cheese melts. Cut into small sections and garnish with flags.

ago, everything was fried. We have brown rice. bar decorated with oyster shells. We have vegetarian black beans. We even have The Estefans have been as successful in low-calorie. We bake instead of frying!” marriage as they have been in music. Miami’s The restaurant offers iconic couple has been together more than thoughtful ESTEFAN KITCHEN for decades and in recent years culinary creations. Every created On Your Feet!, a musical — LOCATION — 140 NE 39 ST. STE. 133 waiter auditions for the based on their professional and MIAMI DESIGN DISTRICT job—Estefan Kitchen staff personal lives. Their secret? — HOURS — double as singers. The Emilio smiles. “If you make the SUN—THURS 11:30 AM–11:00 PM FRI—SAT 11:30 AM–12:00 AM restaurant’s design pays other person happy, you’ll be estefankitchen.com homage to 1950s Cuba, happy.” with a combination of Emilio also knows that modern art deco-inspired black-and-white if you make customers happy, you can keep furnishings and mosaic murals, including a them coming back for more.

At Bold Bean Coffee Roasters, there’s a story – and a face – behind every cup of our selectively sourced, farmer direct, specialty coffees. Faces such as that of specialty coffee innovator Felipe Sardi, one of our growing community of Bold Bean producer partners. Felipe and his wife, Elisa, founded their La Palma y El Tucán operation with an eye toward revolutionizing production practices in their native Colombia. Borrowing from and building on best practices used in wine production and modern farming methods, coupled with farm workers paid for quality over quantity, their innovative approach is a daily demonstration that great coffee doesn’t just happen. It’s a process.

RETAIL • WHOLESALE • ONLINE Select Coffees Shipped Direct to You SUBSCRIBE TODAY!

THREE JACKSONVILLE LOCATIONS

Riverside • Jax Beach • San Marco

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WADING IN :THE SPREAD B y E va N a g o rsk i

Salud!

CUBAN CLASSIC GLITTERS WITH THE ESTEFAN TOUCH

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Traditional Mojito S e rv e s 1

1 ounce simple syrup 1/2 lime, cut into 4 wedges 1 sprig of mint plus 10 leaves 2 ounces Bacardi Superior Rum Splash of soda water 1 piece sugarcane PREPARATION: In a shaker, lightly muddle mint and lime. Add the simple syrup and rum. Fill with ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a highball glass. Garnish glass with mint sprig and sugarcane.

FELIPE CUEVAS

“W

hen you come to Miami, you want to have a great mojito,” says music legend Emilio Estefan. And Estefan Kitchen doesn’t disappoint. Ernest Hemingway made this Cuban drink famous in the 1930s. Since then, it’s been a summertime favorite, ideal for Florida’s yearround sunny weather. The ingredients—white rum, lime juice, sugar, mint, ice, and sparkling water—are interchangeable. You can use strawberries instead of lime or substitute Cuban spearmint, known as yerba buena, for the mint. Estefan Kitchen puts a spin on the classic drink by diluting the sugar, turning it into syrup. They also offer flavored mojitos made from fresh fruit, such as watermelon. Their popular sparkling mojito, Chusma Fina, is crafted with Bacardi Superior Rum, fresh mint leaves, fresh-squeezed lime juice and sugar cane, topped with prosecco. “A whole new generation wants to experience new things, discover new flavors,” explains Emilio. “That’s why we’ve been so successful. We’ve created a lot with tradition and new flavors. Mojito with champagne is something new.” Serving mojitos at get-togethers, celebrations and when entertaining at home guarantees a great time. Emilio enjoys seeing people from all over the world gather at his restaurant. “The secret to life is to share your success and good times with the people you love,” he says. Cheers to that!

WADING IN :FLAMINGLE A FLO CK OF FASCINATING F LOR IDIANS

GIFTED GUILD

These creators of symphonies, sculptures, theatrical performances, country tunes and culinary delights are at the top of Florida’s artistic class.

Denée Benton, 25, got her start in show business singing in her church choir and middle school auditorium. On a trip to New York in the seventh grade, she saw a Broadway performance of Wicked and resolved to return to the city one day as a stage actress. A Winter Park native, Benton landed her first major acting role in The Book of Mormon’s national tour in 2014. And in 2016, the young Benton gave a standout performance as the lead role in the Broadway production of Natasha, Pierre & The Great Comet of 1812, for which she earned a 2017 Tony nomination for best leading actress in a musical.

ELLEN TAAFFE ZWILICH Classical Virtuoso

Renowned composer Ellen Zwilich, 78, developed a love for music as a child in Miami. Her orchestral compositions caught the public’s ear when composer Pierre Boulez conducted her Symposium for Orchestra with the Julliard Symphony Orchestra, earning her a slew of high-profile commissions. Zwilich’s most famous works include her “Concerto Grosso 1985” and her Symphony No. 1 (Three Movements for Orchestra), which won the coveted Pulitzer Prize for music. She was the first woman to achieve the distinction. In 2000, Zwilich joined the faculty of the FSU College of Music, where she continues to teach and write music.

BRIAN KELLEY

Country Crooner

Brian Kelley, 31, who was raised on baseball and music in Ormond Beach, is the “Florida” in the country duo Florida Georgia Line. Kelley, half of the equation behind hit songs like “H.O.L.Y.,” which won this year’s Billboard Music Award for top country song, now lives in Nashville. But he makes a point of staying close to his roots and is occasionally spotted in his hometown—where his dad, Ed, was the mayor and a city commissioner— soaking up the Florida sunshine, giving to the local police force and humane society, and performing, as he and the band did last year at the Daytona 500’s prerace show.

WILLIAM CORDOVA Artist Phenom

William Cordova, 46, embodies Miami’s rich cultural milieu, both in person and in art. Born in Lima, Peru, in 1971, Cordova moved to Miami at an early age. He spent much of his youth there and today lives in the city part-time. Since earning his MFA from Yale in 2004, Cordova has produced an impressive array of sculptures, installations and collages that explore iconic objects of Peruvian and American culture. Cordova’s work can be found in the collections of museums ranging from the Guggenheim to Miami’s Pérez Art Museum. He was the winner of this year’s Orlando Museum of Arts Florida Prize in Contemporary Art.

ZAK STERN

Kosher Baker

Known to most Miami locals as Zak the Baker Zak Stern, 31, was once an unlikely candidate for culinary greatness. Raised in a secular Jewish household, Zak dropped out of pharmacy school and later developed an interest in food. He toured the European and Israeli countrysides, where he learned the culinary and spiritual secrets of the Old World and developed a passion for bread. After returning stateside, he opened his now-acclaimed bakery—which boasts two Wynwood locations—out of a friend’s garage in Miami, and, in 2017, he was named a James Beard semifinalist for his savory loaves.

ILLUSTR ATION BY STEPHEN LOMAZZO

DENÉE BENTON

Broadway Wunderkind

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A Victorian

Experience the charm of a Charles Dickens-inspired holiday weekend in this enchanting North Florida hamlet.

Christmas THERE’S SOMETHING

NOSTALGIC about Christmas

carolers singing on a street corner, twinkling lights against a crisp winter sky or a crackling fire in the hearth. But, alas, far too many people forget to slow down and enjoy these festive symbols or create quality experiences with their loved ones. These days, the holiday season feels like a hectic race to send this present here and that card there while knocking out to-do lists before jetting off for a rushed family gathering. Amelia Island’s third annual DICKENS ON CENTRE, from December 8–10, offers visitors a chance to whisk themselves away from the noise of the modern

world to reflect on what’s really important. Inspired by Charles Dickens’s novella A CHRISTMAS CAROL, the historic downtown Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island transforms into London circa 1843—the year in which the mythical Scrooge had his run-in with three foreboding ghosts. The Victorian-era buildings that flank the streets make for a seamless metamorphosis, complete by men in top hats and women in crinoline skirts and high necklines. Characters like Tiny Tim might doff their caps to you as the Ghosts of Christmas Past, Present and Future glide past on stilts. Favorite local restaurants such as Joe’s Bistro will offer CLASSIC ENGLISH dishes, while vendors and artists along Artist Alley will peddle their HOLIDAY-THEMED WARES. Kids can take a picture with Saint Nick and visit a LETTER WRITING STATION with a direct

line to the North Pole. The holiday festival also pays homage to Fernandina Beach’s roots as a colonial town. The entire community participates, with storefronts decorated in gilded glory and employees in period dress. It’s easy to let the shimmering festival lights that wreath the tree-lined main street transport you back to a simpler time and place. Centuries ago, Dickens wrote a story about a character too consumed in his own affairs to see the holidays for what they truly are: a time for festivities, sure, but also a time to reassess what ultimately matters most. Family, friends, a scribbled plea to Santa for a PlayStation 4? Whatever it may be, Amelia Island welcomes you to join the Dickens on Centre festival and find out for yourself. • ameliaisland.com/dickens

Chestnuts roasting. Carolers strolling. Saint Nick arriving. Wander & wonder through a true Victorian Christmas, made new through the spectacular

Dickens on Centre in downtown Fernandina Beach.

11th annual amelia island museum of history

amelia island bed & breakfast association

HOLIDAY HOME TOUR

HOLIDAY COOKIE TOUR

December 1 & 2

December 9

WADING IN :MADE IN FLA KICKS

Left: Spikes abound in Gold’s latest line. Below: Designer Alessandra Gold

on point

BRAZILIAN-BORN ALESSANDRA GOLD

had her aha! moment while she was running fashion boutiques in Rhode Island. “I saw how so many women had trouble dressing their bodies,” says Gold. “But when it came to shoes, feeling skinny or fat was never an issue.” This realization spurred Gold to travel to Brazil, where she spent time learning the craft at a shoe factory. Later, she launched a collection of heels that eventually expanded into fashionable sneakers. Before long, her pieces were flying off the shelves. Her creative flair caught the attention of global sneaker brand Kruzin, which recruited her to revamp its entire line. Gold,

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based in Miami, is the brand’s creative director and a business partner—a first for a woman in the sneaker industry. The edgy, colorful Kruzin designs aren’t meant to be athletic wear, yet the shoes’ prices are more modest than those demanded by high-end designers who dabble in tennis shoes. “The lifestyle of the brand is rooted in Miami,” explains Gold. “And we have a daredevil as our logo, since you should only wear shoes you like and always take risks.” Each year, she produces an Art Basel series; this fall, Kruzin is rolling out an apparel line that reflects the label’s bold approach to city style. kruzinfootwear.com —Maddy Zollo Rusbosin

GSA HOUSE, TOMMY CHUNG

A bold designer helps a Miami-inspired shoe brand put its best foot forward

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WADING IN :MADE IN FLA COUTURE

Miami sisters wear their art on their sleeves of wearable art was born. The sisters engaged artists like Sanford Biggers and Wendy White early on. “We sit down with each artist to look through their work and decide which piece would translate beautifully into textiles and garments,” says Claudia. The limited-edition designs are then printed onto scarves, blouses, and pants. With production based in Miami and a portion of the proceeds going to children’s art education programs, the local community remains at the core of the ArtTECA brand. artteca.com —MZR Above: Flavia and Claudia Giardinella;

lila green print scarf worn as a top

Pure Perfection

from beginning to end.

ONE OCEAN BOULEVARD ATLANTIC BEACH, FLORIDA 32233 (904) 249-7402 WWW.ONEOCEANRESORT.COM

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W YNWOOD SHUT TER, MAT T DEAN, AUGUSTUS FR ANCIS: NYMPHAEA 3, OIL ON LINEN, 2013

FOR CLAUDIA AND FLAVIA GIARDINELLA,

combining the word “art” and the suffix “-teca,” from the Spanish word for “gallery,” was the perfect way to articulate their Miamibased fashion brand ArtTECA’s mission: to transform artists’ works into a textile collection. The sisters, originally from Venezuela, grew up with a deep appreciation of the art world. While Claudia worked with nonprofits, Flavia immersed herself in the New York and Los Angeles art scenes, and the idea for a line

WADING IN :MADE IN FLA CARRY-ALL

LESS IS THE STATEMENT.

That’s the motto handbag designer Matt Dean uses to describe his aesthetic. The mantra is evident not only in his bags’ clean yet chic silhouettes but also in their structure. Dean’s designs are crafted from a single piece of leather. To avoid stitching and seams, each bag is folded into its shape and fastened together with understated hardware. “I want the focus to be on the purity of the leather,” explains Dean. The Orlando native got into handbags by accident. After working in tech out west, Dean returned to the City Beautiful. Once home, he accompanied his father to a leather goods store. “I saw this piece of leather that just spoke to me,” says Dean. “I had no idea what to do with it, but I bought it anyway. Eventually, I decided to make a bag.” A year and a half later, Dean has come a long way from the prototype he created with that original piece of leather, having produced an entire ready-to-wear collection aimed at the stylish shopper. “It’s for someone who’s fashion-forward and edgy, but also conscious about what went into making the products they are consuming and appreciative of their raw authenticity,” he says. shopmattdean.com —MZR

arm candy

An Orlando handbag designer makes high style look seamless

Above: Each of Dean’s designs are crafted

from a single piece of leather.

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Homegrown products, designers and stores

1 3 4

1. Hall ’Em In Lures

From his Orlando-based shop, Fred Hall hand shapes these fishing lures out of Spanish cedar. Replicas of vintage fishing tackle, the lures will make inshore anglers nostalgic.The density and shape of each plug creates natural movement in the water, attracting some of the finest snook, tarpon and seatrout in the state. halleminlures.com, from $20

2. Hall ’Em In Lures

Expert wood-worker Fred Hall also fabricates fine pecky cypress treasure troves, humidors and tackle boxes with antique brass hardware from his Orlando shop.The custom boxes, topped with bone or driftwood accents, store everything from cufflinks to cigars and fishing lures. Call for pricing details. halleminlures.com, $400-$1,800

3. Beach Dirty

After falling in love with the carefree ways of Florida beaches, Kelly Essary, of St. Petersburg Beach, established the Beach Dirty line of essential apparel and accessories that are perfectly suited for a sun-and-sand lifestyle. Get beach dirty in the soft tri-blend fabric of this sporty, lightweight hoodie. beachdirty.com, $45

4. Beau Outfitters

Founded by Chase O’Steen and Ryan Switzer in Jacksonville, this men’s specialty store gives sophisticated outdoorsmen the apparel and accessories they need for both rugged and refined pursuits. This St. Pierre Brackish bow tie is handcrafted from select feathers. beauoutfitters.com, $195

6 7

8 5. The Admiral’s Daughters

Lindsay Amerault, the daughter of a naval officer, created this family-owned, ocean-themed apparel brand to honor military and ocean-conservation charities, which receive a portion of every sale.This Florida-inspired graphic baseball tee celebrates Amerault’s love of the Sunshine State. theadmiralsdaughters.com, $44

6. SIC Cups

This North Florida company specializes in colorful stainless-steel bottles, tumblers and cocktail shakers. Founders Bobby Harrington and Erik Howe were inspired by their shared motto to “work hard, play hard.” These 30oz tumblers are guaranteed to keep drinks ice-cold for 24 hours or piping hot for eight. siccups.com, from $19.99

7. IceMule Coolers

James Collie of St. Augustine designed these high-performance, hands-free coolers to accommodate most every outdoor excursion, whether it’s fishing the flats, relaxing on the beach or hiking swampy trails. Featured here are the Pro Catch Small 27L and the Classic Medium 15L. icemulecoolers.com, from $49

8. Gypset and Pearl Brittany Manning founded this lifestyle beach boutique in North Florida to offer a mix of clothing, accessories and luxury, hard-to-find skincare products. Glow Inner Beauty Powder by The Beauty Chef uses superfoods and fermented ingredients to improve the skin’s appearance in as little as two weeks. gypsetandpearl.com, $70

WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE CO N VE RSATIONS, INTERVIEWS, STOR IES B y Ja m i e R i ch

The Devil Went Down to Florida

John Driskell Hopkins, a founding member of the Zac Brown Band, takes a nostalgic trip back to 1993, down Tennessee Street in Tallahassee, where he got his musical start. Below: Hopkins

performing with Zac Brown

HOW DID YOU MEET ZAC BROWN? JDH: I actually met Zac recording his first

record [in Atlanta]. It was in my studio back in 2000, around the same time The Woodpeckers were having their college resurgence. We started playing a bunch of fraternities and stuff in the early 2000s just to go out and have fun and make some money. I was producing records for local and regional bands from, like, ’96 to 2005. I joined Zac’s band in ’05 because I already knew all his songs [from producing the album] and we were friends. That took off three years later.

HOW DID PRODUCING AN ALBUM FOR ZAC WORK BACK THEN? JDH: We had to learn a lot along the way,

but if you came to my studio, that meant that I was plugging in all the microphones and turning all the knobs and using the computer and making suggestions. And at the end you walked away with a finished, mixed CD, and then you were on your own.

BUT ZAC WAS DIFFERENT? JDH: When we started playing, we just

kind of became a magical combination, and the gigs that we got just got better and better.

IS IT STILL FUN TO CREATE MUSIC TOGETHER OR DOES IT FEEL MORE LIKE WORK? JDH: You know, any job that anybody has,

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Above Hopkins started the band The Woodpeckers in Tallahassee in the ’90s

PATRICIA O’DRISCOLL, JOHN DRISKELL HOPKINS

nyone who has seen the Zac Brown Band perform will recognize the towering bandmate with the long flowing chops, jamming on a guitar and belting out vocals. John Driskell Hopkins, or Hop, as friends call him, grew up in Gainesville, Georgia. But in 1993 his love of theater pulled him farther south to Florida State University. Hopkins excelled on the stage—as a musician. He and his band The Woodpeckers played to boozy crowds in frat houses and bars along Tallahassee’s infamous Tennessee Strip, forging what would become a multiplatinum music career. Hopkins, 46, now living in Atlanta with his wife and three daughters, produces albums, writes songs, and plays guitar, banjo and ukulele with the Grammy-winning Zac Brown Band, which he helped found. Hopkins has said he likes to “hear the rosin on a string,” and his penchant for a classic country tone resonates in his music. He masterfully blurs the lines between rock, country, bluegrass and pop with a modern Southern sound and lyrics straight from his own life story. In an interview with Flamingo, Hopkins opens up about his musical influences, the blight of “bro country,” life in the Zac Brown Band, and his memories of good ole FSU.

even if they love it, can have days where it feels like it’s a grind. But we get a lot of joy out of what we do, and we’re very lucky to have that.

WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE

Above: Hopkins helped

Zac Brown produce his first album in Atlanta in 2000 and became one of the bandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founding members.

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WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE YOU’RE A FAMILY MAN. HOW MANY KIDS DO YOU HAVE? JDH: Yeah, I’ve got an eight-year-old and

two fives. All girls.

DADDY’S GIRLS, I’M SURE. ARE THEY INTO MUSIC? JDH: I want them to be happy in the

pursuits they may have, but it’s important for me not to pressure them into music. It’s a career that you can’t dictate. You can’t just say, “Oh, well I’m going to go and be a very successful musician because I feel like it.” You have to get lucky outside of the actual hard work.

WHAT WERE SOME OF THE STROKES OF LUCK FOR YOU AND THE ZAC BROWN BAND? JDH: Well, you know, we could’ve done

a lot of things along the way that didn’t work. And we were lucky that the things we did do worked. We’re also lucky that we’ve had some opportunities that have just fallen into our laps and that we were prepared for. Luck is just being prepared for the moments that jump out at you and being able to handle them.

WERE THOSE LUCKY BREAKS BIG PERFORMANCES? JDH: You can point to a couple things.

ARE THERE ANY SONGS RIGHT NOW THAT YOU LOVE PLAYING? JDH: Sometimes it’s a song that we didn’t

even write. Right now, it’s been a lot of fun to play “Whipping Post” by the Allman Brothers. And I think one of [ZBB’s] new songs that’s getting me the most right now is “Two Places at One Time.” It resonates with all of us about having to travel so much and be away for a long period of time, and then to come back. It’s about finding that balance between being on the road and being at home.

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HAS THE LOSS OF GREGG ALLMAN AND CHRIS CORNELL EARLIER THIS YEAR CAUSED YOU TO REFLECT ON YOUR MORTALITY OR THE LEGACY THAT YOU’RE BUILDING WITH YOUR MUSIC? JDH: Absolutely. There seem to be a lot of

people that we’ve lost in recent years. You definitely start thinking about how fleeting it all can be and to get your checkup and eat your vegetables and take care of yourself. You just never know. People like that, [their deaths] make an impact on you, emotionally and artistically—on what you can do to push the envelope.

UNDER THE INFLUENCE THAT PERFORMANCE SET THE TONE FOR THE KIND OF MUSIC THE ZAC BROWN BAND CREATES. WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE BRO COUNTRY, POP MOVEMENT TAKING OVER COUNTRY RADIO? JDH: Oh, I mean, it’s not my cup of tea.

I don’t know how long it will last. People eventually seem to respond more to real songwriting instead of the party of the week.

ZAC BROWN BAND, JOHN DRISKELL HOPKINS

Above: Hopkins and his bandmate Clay Cook synchronized in midair in 2014

First of all, being on the radio is a big deal. It really helps in terms of your crowd, and your shows start to exponentially double. But, then, you have to be able to back that up—so when people come to the show, they don’t go, “Oh, they only do that one song, and then everything else about them sucks.” Then, if you get lucky enough to be on a television program, like the CMAs … We did “The Devil Went Down to Georgia” [on the CMAs]. We did a Charlie Daniels song rather than one of our songs because we knew that everybody would go, “Holy shit, did you see that?” Being bold and being prepared are the only things that I could teach my kids if they wanted to go into music.

WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE I don’t like rock songs about rocking. I don’t like country songs about being country. And I don’t like grass songs about grassing. YOU AREN’T WORKING ON A SONG ABOUT PAINTED-ON JEANS AND DIXIE CUPS? JDH: I don’t care what you do with the

track, I’m still not going to want to hear about every stereotypical camping scenario that you can come up with that ends in some nonexistent honky-tonk. It’s complete bullshit to me, and I don’t think I’ll ever appreciate it as an effort of songwriting. But, you know, I’m kind of a snob. So I’m admittedly hard to please when it comes to the songwriting.

DO YOU THINK THERE’S GOING TO BE A RETURN TO THE CLASSIC BLUEGRASS, FOLK AND BLUES INFLUENCES IN MAINSTREAM COUNTRY MUSIC? JDH: Probably not. I mean, there’s a lot

of stuff that’s really slick and tuned up, and that’s fine. I just want the songs to be honest. I don’t like rock songs about rocking. I don’t like country songs about being country. And I don’t like grass songs

about grassing. No matter what it is, I want it to be about you, or about me, or about something that changed my life that wasn’t superficial. But there’s also going to be a bunch of people writing pop stuff that a lot of people are going to really enjoy, and there’s a place for that; it’s just not on my radio.

LET ME ASK YOU ABOUT AN ARTIST WHO I KNOW HAS BEEN AN INFLUENCE: JIMMY BUFFETT. HOW CAN YOU EXPLAIN SOMEONE WHO CREATES AN ENTIRE GENRE OF MUSIC? JDH: He’s awesome. I don’t think that

anyone will do it the same way he did it, but you just never know who the next Buffett or the next Bob Marley is going to be, who takes over a whole movement of music. We had moments where there was kind of a symbolic passing of the torch from Jimmy to Zac, just because we write some beach songs. Stylistically, I don’t

think there’s ever going to be another actual Jimmy Buffett. Anybody that sets out to duplicate an older artist, you know, especially one as legendary as Jimmy, is destined to fail. So, I think we can borrow from all of our influences and our heroes along the way, and I think that makes us who we are.

THE WAY YOU HARMONIZE REMINDS ME OF THE INDIGO GIRLS. JDH: I don’t know a bigger Indigo Girls fan

than me.

I’M NOT GOING TO GO UP AGAINST YOU FOR BIGGEST FAN. JDH: No, I have arguments with people

about it.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE INDIGO GIRLS SONG? JDH: “Love’s Recovery.” But the one song

that’s probably my latest favorite is “The Wood Song.” You know that one? [He sings.] “But the wood is tired and the wood is old And we’ll make it fine if the weather holds But if the weather holds we’ll have missed the point That’s where I need to go.” You gotta hear it. Look it up when you’re

Below: Hopkins, on banjo, rehearses with the Zac Brown Band.

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WADING IN :ONE-ON-ONE Below: Hopkins got his

musical start as a student, playing bars and college parties in Tallahassee.

done with this. It’ll blow your mind. They’re my heroes.

THAT’S AWESOME! WHAT OTHER BANDS DO YOU ADMIRE? JDH: One of my favorite bands growing

up was U2, and I just got to see them in Louisville. It was their Joshua Tree Tour, and it was insane. I’m going to cling to those things that I grew up with, but I also get excited about new artists. I’m really into Aoife O’Donovan, and I really like Chris Thile and his Punch Brothers stuff. And I like a lot of the new, super-hip bluegrass things that are out now. I love my guys from Balsam Range. You keep getting influenced by the things you’re listening to, and I always try to listen to really topquality stuff. It keeps me excited about making new music for myself.

HIGHWAY 10 RIDE YOU’RE A BIG FAN OF THE 30A SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL IN THE PANHANDLE. WHAT DREW YOU TO IT? JDH: Probably the Indigo Girls.

I just thought, wow, this is the coolest songwriters festival I’ve ever seen or heard of, and I want to be a part of it. I was able to get involved several years ago, and I’ve gone every year that I could.

DO YOU EVER GET BACK TO TALLAHASSEE? JDH: Well, my wife is from Tallahassee.

Her mother lives there, and we go down to visit her at least once a year and try to see FSU play.

ARE YOU A RABID ’NOLES FAN? JDH: I don’t follow the season too closely.

If it’s not the Seminoles, it’s the Bulldogs, and they’re not in the same conference, so they almost never play each other. I cheer for both.

That was before Yianni’s sold out and stopped doing live music every week. But we built that joint, and it was our favorite place to play. And anybody who was anybody played Bullwinkle’s. And we started playing Potbelly’s, too. Over the years Potbelly’s was more a place where you could do original stuff, so my band Brighter Shade would come back and do

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JOLIE LOREN PHOTOGR APHY

WHAT WERE YOUR FAVORITE VENUES TO PLAY WITH THE WOODPECKERS IN YOUR FSU DAYS? JDH: I played Yianni’s every week.

Above: Hopkins’s band Brighter

Shade’s self-titled debut album, released in 1996

Potbelly’s and sometimes Floyd’s. I’m not really familiar with the scene now, but when we go home, when we go back to Tallahassee, we try to go to Bullwinkle’s and Potbelly’s and see Dan and friends. We want to go and hang out for a while, but Tallahassee is generally a time for us to be with our girls and see grandma.

DO YOU EVER PLAY A SET AT POTBELLY’S? JDH: Nah. I BET THAT WOULD GIVE PEOPLE A THRILL. JDH: They might think, well,

who’s the old guy?

YOU’VE GOT A MEMORABLE LOOK THESE DAYS, WITH THE CHOPS AND THE HAT. JDH: There’s a Twitter picture out

there from the last time we played at the Civic Center, about two years ago, where I’m holding a spear. They gave us a spear, and during one of my solo moments, I held it above my head. You might be able to find that picture somewhere. It’s a good one.

ANY FAVORITE MEMORIES OF TALLAHASSEE, FROM BACK IN THE DAY? JDH: Being on stage and meeting my

wife there. Those are the memories that I can look back on and cherish. It’s just a great town, and a great place to go to school. The arts program was fantastic. I would recommend it to anyone who wants to be an arts student and still go to a big Southern school.

THIS FALL, YOU AND THE REST OF THE ZAC BROWN BAND PLAY ALL OVER FLORIDA. JDH: Yep, we’re gonna end up in

Tampa. And then my family’s going on a Disney cruise.

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (NORTH) THE COLLECTOR LUXURY INN & GARDENS

by national and local bands are not only taped on multiple cameras, but also livestreamed. The revenue from these events goes right back to the artists. As one of the owners, Dave Melosh, puts it, “It’s just a phenomenal place to hear music.” heartwoodsoundstage.com

ST. AUGUSTINE

Like St. Augustine, The Collector is packed with incredible history. Once the Dow Museum of Historic Houses, this landmark was built in 1790. Today, the venue still features the original structural integrity of its 30 unique rooms with coquina walls and stained glass windows, yet it’s equipped with modern technology like iPads. Stay where Napoleon’s nephew once lived. Check out Kenneth Dow’s outdoor bathtub, now a koi pond. Grab a drink at The Well and meander past stunning gardens to the outdoor amphitheater. thecollectorinn.com

GOOD DOUGH

BREW HA HA P E N S A C O LA

Above: A snappy sampling of JJ Cooper’s men’s clothing in Fernandina

JACKSONVILLE

Jacksonville has a sweet tooth for Logan and Brittany Moore’s artisan donut shop, Good Dough, located in San Marco. “We wanted a community shop,” says Logan. Indeed, people are coming together to enjoy favorite varieties, such as brown butter and Molly Ringwald. The flavors rotate monthly, and the handcrafted recipes are filled with locally sourced ingredients. Customers can

Above: The train crossing mural is one of the many unique touches at Brew Ha Ha. Below: (left) The general store and courtyard at the historic Collector Luxury Inn & Gardens

watch the donut-making process through the kitchen windows while sipping Vagabond Coffee. Need more than just

dough? Try the fried chicken doughwiche. The shop’s goal, explains Logan, is “for guests to be a little bit happier when they leave than when they came in.” gooddoughdoughnuts.com

In East Hill, a giant vintage postcard mural welcomes diners to this family- and dog-friendly eatery, Brew Ha Ha. “It’s an ode to Pensacola history and what makes Pensacola special,” says owner Angela Walker. Order Southern-inspired dishes with a twist—wings arranged like the Blue Angels, for example— from the 1940s Greyhound bus ticket window. Sip local beer at the bar built of materials from the old Hotel San Carlos. And check out the indoor graffiti bridge. The chefs are locals who prepare family recipes. Initially, Walker had to hunt for decor. Now, people are making the place their own by contributing their personal memorabilia. brewhahapensacola.com Below: (right) Artist performing at Heartwood Soundstage in Gainesville

HEARTWOOD SOUNDSTAGE

JACOB FREEMAN, HEART WOOD SOUNDSTAGE

GAINESVILLE

Put four musicians together, three of whom are sound engineers, and what do you get? A recording studio for live concerts, the only one of its kind in North Florida. Heartwood Soundstage welcomes an audience in its 150-seat listening room, where they tune in for an unparalleled experience. Can’t make it to Gainesville? All performances

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (C E N T RA L ) HAWTHORNE BOTTLE SHOPPE ST. PETERSBURG

Oenophiles and beer lovers, rejoice! Hawthorne Bottle Shoppe landed on Central Avenue’s west end in February with 75 wines and 300-plus brews, including Frank White, an IPA exclusive to the shop. Equal parts bar and market, it also serves up artisan sandwiches and snacks, like Sriracha tuna and homemade pimento cheese. Inside, there’s a lounge outfitted with vintage furniture and a library (shop policy: take a book, leave another behind). Outside, a 1,200-square-foot covered patio beckons with sofas, benches and a swing. “It’s a casual, welcoming ambience,” says co-owner Tegan Foster. “But we also help guests find something they can enjoy at home.” hbsforlife.com

blue and green mural accented with gold leaf subjects conjure visions of the City of Lights at downtown Orlando’s DoveCote. Chef Clay Miller—a student of The French Laundry’s Thomas Keller and renowned restaurateur Daniel Boulud—completes the Parisian experience with decadent dishes such as pork terrine, chicken and sausage cassoulet, crab and shrimp beignets, grilled octopus, braised beef short ribs and chocolate souffle. Since debuting in July 2016, the brasserie has racked up accolades and reservations. dovecoteorlando.com

POSTO 9

LA K E LA N D

The old masonry building on Main Street has been many things in its 109 years, including a dental office, music store and private home. On December 17, it found new life as Posto 9, a Brazilian-Southern gastropub. Owners Marco and Grace Franca had 13 tons of wood removed from the original structure and repurposed into tables, bar tops and decorative pieces. With 20 years of experience and inspiration from his hometown of São Paulo, Chef Michel Revy conceives memorable dishes, such as cheese bread waffles with Bahia spiced fried chicken, poblano aioli and guava ketchup. Each plate is an Instagram-worthy creation. posto9gastropub.com

SURF OUTFITTER TA M PA Above: Toast, drink and shop at St.

Petersburg’s social establishment and market.

DOVECOTE BRASSERIE O R LA N D O

Marble countertops, brass fixtures, 10-foot-tall drapes in flowing fabrics, and an ethereal

In March, Hyde Park Village got a new neighbor, one that’s decidedly easygoing. Stocked with swimwear, cover-ups, footwear, accessories, wetsuits, boards, fins, leashes and waterproof gadgets such as cameras, GPS devices, tide trackers and speakers, Surf

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Above: Bubbles and oysters served at the raw bar at Orlando’s DoveCote Brasserie Below: Grouper bouillabaisse at DoveCote Brasserie

Outfitter helps shoppers escape the rat race and hang ten in comfort and style. The beachy boutique carries a mix of nationally known labels and boutique brands, including Duvin, Conscious Coconut, Maaji Swimwear and Frankie’s Bikinis. “We handpick everything and are always searching

for specialty items and locally sourced products,” says manager Rikki Radkay. surfoutfitter.com

WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (SOUTH) THE PERRY HOTEL KEY WEST

DAN HOWFORD, DOVECOTE BR ASSERIE, THE RESERVE

Situated on Stock Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bustling waterfront, The Perry Hotel lies perched at the southernmost edge of the country. Named after the famed commodore who helped claim Key West for the United States 195 years ago, the newly built 100-room boutique hotel features local artwork, gourmet Key West cuisine and reclaimed wood flooring reminiscent of the fishing boats that rock gently in their slips just steps from the front of the hotel. Balancing the quiet, rustic feel of Stock Island with the upscale ambience of a luxury

hotel, the Perry gives travelers safe harbor from the tourist traps on the surrounding island. perrykeywest.com

THE RESERVE S A R A S O TA

Housed in buildings that once belonged to Charles Ringling of the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus, The Reserve in downtown Sarasota transforms these former circus venues into a contemporary urban gathering place. Offering Buddy Brew specialty coffees and an assortment of teas, wines, craft beers and light bites perfect for pairing with books from the

Above: The Reserve bookstore and cafe in Sarasota is a former circus

venue that once belonged to Charles Ringling.

1 9 7 2 S A N M A R C O B LV D. JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA (904) 551-3904 M O N . - F R I . | 1 0 am - 6 pm BEAUOUTFITTERS.COM

S A T. | 1 0 am - 5 pm

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WADING IN :JUST HATCHED DEBUTS TO PER USE (SOUTH) curated bookstore, The Reserve encourages patrons to kick back in the brick courtyard beneath Edison bulbs and enjoy the warm Sarasota breeze. “The conversations you’ll have and the people you’ll meet here make it just a fantastic place,” says owner Kim Cressell. thereservesrq.com

THE FROST MUSEUM OF SCIENCE MIAMI

The newest addition to downtown Miami’s expanding Museum Park, The Frost Museum seeks to whisk your imagination on a journey from the ocean depths to the far reaches of space. It’s housed in four buildings and features a three-story aquarium that takes you from the surface to the depths of South Florida’s aquatic ecosystem, a 250-seat planetarium

Above: The Perry, on Stock Island in Key West, gives travelers safe harbor from the tourist traps.

designed to hurtle you across the universe, two additional wings dedicated to exhibits exploring the Everglades and the nature of flight, a dazzling laser show and more. The Frost Museum is set to reinvigorate your sense of wonder at the world that surrounds us. frostscience.org

with locally sourced ingredients. Situated in a 100-seat restaurant divided between a spacious dining room and an outdoor patio with ocean views, Plant Food + Wine features a menu

offering a delicious assortment of bowls, sandwiches, wraps and salads made in a 100-percent raw-food kitchen. thesacredspacemiami.com/ pages/plant-food-and-wine

Left: Spicy kale salad at Plant Food + Wine Below: The Yutyrannus Huali, a

30-foot dinosaur on exhibit at The Frost Museum of Science in Miami

PLANT FOOD + WINE

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KRISTEN PENOYER, PL ANT FOOD + WINE

MIAMI

Located inside The Sacred Space, a restorative gathering place offering mental and physical nourishment for the healthy set, Plant Food + Wine eatery focuses on creating minimally processed, plant-based cuisine. The restaurant, led by Chef Horacio Rivadero, embodies the ideals of sustainability and wellness

— Unf ilter ed Fodder —

CAPITAL DAME By Di a n e R o b ert s • I l l u st ra t i o n b y Ja ck S p el l m a n

NOVEL IDEAS

Writers have long been drawn to Florida’s swamps, beaches and cities, where a certain strangeness stokes creativity For some reason, people assume Florida is a no-talent wasteland of theme parks, trailer parks, strip malls and condos, a state with dubious politics and a deep distrust of eggheads. I can’t imagine where they derive this impression from. Perhaps the well-publicized daily atrocities are to blame. Hear about the Palm Beach County man who hurled a live alligator through

the Wendy’s drive-through window? Or the Jacksonville gun rights advocate shot in the back by her 4-year-old child? A recent favorite of mine is the Fort Walton Beach woman who closed her eyes to pray, despite the fact that she was driving a car at the time. She ran a stop sign and crashed into a house. Not all Floridians are the brightest ornaments on the national Christmas tree, but we are not

all rubes, proprietors of meth labs, animal abusers, armed religious twits or demented millionaires. Many of us actually read books. Some of us even write them. It’s true our literacy rate ranks below Alabama and Georgia, and that a substantial percentage of Floridians firmly believe the Earth is 6,000 years old, they ain’t kin to no monkey, and NASA operates a secret camp of kidnapped children on Mars.

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CAPITAL DAME UNF ILTER ED FODDER

Nevertheless, Florida is not without brilliant people, including writers. Lots of writers, actually. Florida seems to attract writers like a roadkill possum attracts turkey buzzards: It’s messy, dirty and distinctly unsanitary, yet somehow impossible to resist. As Craig Pittman writes in Oh, Florida!, a delicious study of how the state’s weirdness shapes the nation, “We tell a lot of lies in Florida.” Lies is just another word for imaginative creation. This state is home to the likes of Bob Shacochis, Edwidge Danticat, Connie May Fowler, Jeff VanderMeer, Karen Russell, Lauren Groff, David Kirby, Irvine Welsh, James Gleick and Robert Olen Butler—authors decorated with National Book Awards, Nebula Awards, MacArthur genius grants, Guggenheims, Pulitzers and Pushcart Prizes. And those are just the living writers. If we include the dead, or, as I should refer to them, “immortals,” the list of luminaries grows. There’s Zora Neale Hurston, the folklorist and novelist from Eatonville who gave us Their Eyes Were Watching God and its fierce heroine, Janie Crawford, who watches each day “take form with the sun and emerge from the gray dust of its making.” There’s Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings, author of The Yearling and Cross Creek; James Weldon Johnson, whose The Autobiography of an Ex-Colored Man explores the painful compromise of passing as white in the Jim Crow South; Peter Matthiessen, whose trilogy about Edgar J. Watson, including Killing Mister Watson, tells the quintessential Florida story about the rape of our natural environment in the name of greed; and Ernest

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Hemingway, who lived in an antebellum house on Whitehead Street in Key West in the 1930s, sharing space with his second wife, Pauline, a lot of booze and a slew of six-toed cats. And we can’t forget Harry Crews, the longtime professor of creative writing at the University of Florida and darkly funny chronicler of smalltown desperation and rage. He was a drinker, a brawler and a consummate man of letters. He sported a tattoo on his arm of a quotation from an E.E. Cummings poem: “How do you like your blue-eyed boy, Mr. Death?” The first written Florida narrative was probably Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca’s Naufragios, an account of Pánfilo de Narváez’s doomed expedition in 1527. Early 16th-century conquistadors didn’t know how to pack for Florida. They brought lots of heavy armor and crucifixes, but went light on food and water. The explorers nearly starved to death while wandering through the forests of North Florida and ultimately resorted to eating their own horses. Núnez, one of the few to survive, eventually made his way to Mexico, notes intact. By the way, the “cow head” part of the author’s name comes from an ancestor who helped the Spanish king win a battle against the Moors in the 13th century—the man apparently marked a hidden route through the mountains with the head of a cow. In 1774, the American naturalist William Bartram took off for the Florida backcountry and found himself enraptured by the state’s huge magnolia trees, egrets and gators. His Travels, published in 1791, praises Florida’s springs as “the blue ether of another world” and exalts the swamps between the Suwannee and the Atlantic coast as “a glorious apartment in the sovereign palace of the Creator.” By the 19th century, people who lived elsewhere regarded Florida as a romantic wilderness, full of alternately tragic and noble natives, kindly slaves, dashing plantation owners and whacky

eccentrics. Washington Irving wrote two fictional stories about the life of Florida’s first civilian governor, William Duval, and Walt Whitman composed an ode to Osceola memorializing the death of the Seminole leader. Harriet Beecher Stowe spent winters in Florida after the Civil War and wrote about her life on the St. Johns. Jules Verne’s 1865 novel From the Earth to the Moon imagines a bunch of genius weirdos launching a manned rocket from “Tampa Town” into space. Of course, I’m leaving out a lot of FlaLit: Robb White’s beautiful children’s novel, The Lion’s Paw; Lois Lenski’s 1945 Strawberry Girl; and John D. MacDonald’s Travis McGee mysteries, to name a few. But there’s something about Florida that’s deeply peculiar, something that impels otherwise sane people to excess. Poet Wallace Stevens, who wintered in Key West for 20 years, was moved to write “O Florida, Venereal Soil.” Even just reading it, you feel the sweat and the thick air: Swiftly in the nights, In the porches of Key West, Behind the bougainvilleas, After the guitar is asleep, Lasciviously as the wind, You come tormenting … Quick, somebody turn on the airconditioning! Maybe Florida inspires such outré writing because the place is at once attractive and atrocious, lush and corrupt. That, or the heat. Seriously, Florida literature owes much to the state’s god-awful endless summer. As Pittman writes, “With no snow to keep them cooped up indoors, Floridians and tourists are out creating mischief and mayhem all year long...And when the weather gets really hot, tempers tend to flare and people reach for any weapon, producing such headlines as ‘Man Escapes on Lawnmower from Intoxicated, Machete-Wielding Man.’” Mischief and mayhem might be uncomfortable in daily life, but they’re meat and drink to writers. In Carl Hiaasen’s Tourist Season, the heat does more than make people irritable: “Greater Miami

Let me show you fabulous Jacksonville... where Florida begins!

Beverley Brooke had more mutilation-homicides per capita than any other American city, a fact he attributed to the terrific climate. In warm weather, Allen noted, there were no outdoor elements to deter a lunatic from spending six, seven, eight hours hacking away on a victim; try that in Buffalo, and you’d freeze your ass off.” Beyond the heat, Florida may also be fertile ground for literary talent because the place aggressively, defiantly, embraces the surreal. Florida asks you to believe that some former citrus groves around Kissimmee are a magic kingdom and that the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry really exists only a few miles from the Orlando airport, so why shouldn’t the Everglades be full of ghosts, as in Karen Russell’s Swamplandia? Or, for that matter, something darker: Jeff VanderMeer’s brilliant Southern Reach trilogy is partially set in Area X, a mysterious wilderness inspired by the St. Marks Wildlife Refuge. The place is a gothic landscape full of strange and frightening flora and fauna, things that glow and enigmatic messages from some unknown intelligence. VanderMeer is splendidly inventive, but Area X is getting closer to reality. Florida is the poster peninsula for environmental crimes and the perils of ignoring climate change. We’ve got salt water seeping into our aquifer, weekly floods down south, barrier islands shrinking, and lakes and rivers turning green with toxic algae. How long before nature bites back hard? Literary types turn the “lies” we Floridians tell into a warning, a larger truth. Pity people in this state don’t read more.

Diane Roberts is an eighthgeneration Floridian and was educated at Florida State University and Oxford University. A longtime NPR commentator, her work has appeared in The New York Times, The Guardian and the Tampa Bay Times. She has also authored four books, including Dream State, a historical memoir of Florida, and Tribal: College Football and the Secret Heart of America.

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By STEVE DOLLAR Photography by PATRICIA O’DRISCOLL Vintage Photography by SIDNEY SMITH

Southern Blood, the final album by the late Gregg Allman, who co-founded the Allman Brothers Band in Jacksonville 48 years ago, takes the Southern rock pioneer’s career full circle.

hank Middleton will never forget the first time he met Gregg Allman. He was two months out of high school, shining shoes at Braswell’s Barber Shop in Macon, Georgia. In the dog days of August, the banter between employees was accompanied by the rattle and hum of an air conditioner. If that wasn’t enough to soothe a sweat, a quarter bought an icy Coca-Cola from a vending machine. Next door was a rehearsal studio owned by Phil Walden, the onetime manager of soul legend Otis Redding and the founder of Capricorn Records, and it was equipped with neither. During breaks, the members of Walden’s new discovery, the Allman Brothers Band, would wander over to the barber shop to stand in the air conditioning with a cold drink. Middleton still recalls the first time they visited: “They all gathered around the shoeshine stand. I was tripping out … because I’d never seen hippies before.” One of them asked Middleton to shine his shoes. “All the while I was shining his shoes, I was looking at the glasses he had on, the shades. When I got through with the shoes, he stepped down. He says, ‘What do I owe you, man?’ And I say, ‘A quarter, man.’ So he gave me a quarter for the shoeshine, and then he looked at me, and he went, ‘You like these shades, don’t you, man?’ I said, ‘Yeah, I like them.’ He pulled them off and handed them to me and said, ‘There’s your tip!’ That’s how it started.” The two became best friends, and, over the next five decades, as Allman grew famous and faced a number of very public tragedies and tribulations, they stayed best friends.

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“He didn’t like to go nowhere without me,” Middleton said. On May 27, Allman died in his home in Richmond Hill, Georgia, age 69, as a result of liver cancer. The performer’s public image was shaped by the follies of youthful stardom and the desperado lyrics of his 1973 signature hit “Midnight Rider,” but, in later years, he had become something of an elder statesman of rock. Sitting behind his Hammond B3 organ during performances with the Allman Brothers and with his solo band, he was a figure of true grit and majesty. He was also known as something of a ladies’ man, having wed seven times, but those close to Allman knew the deeper story behind the shades. “He was truly … a beautiful Southern gentleman,” said Michael Lehman, Allman’s manager from 2004 until the singer’s death. Lehman helped the singer sharpen his professional focus and claim the respect he was due. “The last 10 or 20 years, my father tried to come out of the fog of the drug use and regret and start having some clarity,” said Devon Allman, Gregg’s son by his first wife Shelley Kay Jefts and, like several of the performer’s other children, a professional musician. “I was really proud of him for that.” “A lot of people don’t know this, but basically he was an extremely shy person. He had a heart as big as Texas,” said Middleton, who traveled off and on with Allman since the early days. That’s the Gregg Allman who made Southern Blood. With this new album, which will be released September 8 on Rounder Records, the musician goes back to his roots. The record’s ten tracks were recorded at Fame Studios in This page: Gregg Muscle Shoals, Alabama, the preparing to fabled audio mecca in the go on stage at the Cow Palace northwest corner of the Cotin San Francisco, ton State. It was there that Ca., in 1973.

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with the guitar he’d bought at a Sears department store. All of a sudden, his brother was, too. In a 1973 interview, Allman shared the story with Rolling Stone’s Cameron Crowe: “Pretty soon we had fights over the damn thing, so when it came around to our birthdays—mine was in December and his was in November—we both got one. I got mine a little earlier than my birthday, actually. Matter of fact, I put hands on my first electric guitar November 10, 1960, at three o’clock that Saturday afternoon. Duane’s guitar got into the picture shortly after that.” As teenagers, the brothers began playing in local beach bands, and, in 1965, they hit the road with the Allman Joys, the second band they formed together. Although the Allman Brothers Band is most commonly associated with Macon, Georgia, the group actually formed in Jacksonville in March

CHANK MIDDLETON, ROUNDER RECORDS, SIDNE YSMITHPHOTOS.COM

Wilson Pickett, Aretha Franklin, Etta James, Boz Scaggs, King Curtis, Herbie Mann and many others made some of the greatest pop, rock and rhythm and blues recordings of all time, each of them infused with a touch of swamp juice. In the late 1960s, Gregg’s brother Duane Allman began forming what would become the Allman Brothers Band while working for the studio as a session musician. Older than his brother by nearly a year, Duane never lived to enjoy his namesake band’s massive success. In one of rock music’s greatest tragedies, he died in a 1971 motorcycle crash. A year later, Berry Oakley, the band’s bassist, died in a similar accident only three blocks away from where the guitarist crashed. The premature deaths haunted the band and are still the most poignant part of its bittersweet legend. “Gregg never got over the loss of his brother, and Gregg felt that Duane’s spirit was with him all the time,” said Don Was, who has produced albums by the Rolling Stones, Brian Wilson and Willie Nelson. Was guided the sessions for Southern Blood in March 2016. According to Middleton, Gregg Allman found a deep communion in Alabama. “To him, going back in there was like being … side by side with his brother,” he said. “Duane’s spirit is so heavy in that place, it’s like he’s still in there.” Though Alabama held a special significance for them both, the Allmans had deep Florida roots. They were born in Nashville, but their mother moved the family to Daytona Beach in 1958, nine years after her husband, Willis Turner Allman, was murdered by a hitchhiker. In the summer of 1960, the boys This page from left: Gregg and developed two life-changing Chank Middleton; Don Was at the Muscle Shoals recording obsessions: motorcycles and sessions for Southern Blood; guitars. Gregg was obsessed Gregg on the keys

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Duane Allman, the band’s cofounder, who died in 1971; Gregg Allman on guitar

1969. Several band members lived in This page right: Gregg backstage a gray house just south of downtown. at the Cow Palace, They didn’t stay in the city very long, San Francisco, Ca., in 1973 but the Sunshine State was never far from their view. Gregg Allman spent the last years of his life at his Georgia home, located about 100 miles north of the band’s birthplace. Despite his health issues, those last years were good. Before calling it quits in 2014, the Allman Brothers Band was playing at its best. Between tours, Gregg was highly productive on his own: He launched the Laid Back Festival, played tribute concerts and released several albums, including 2011’s Grammy-nominated Low Country Blues. Despite the singer’s catlike capacity to outlive his doctor’s forecasts, those close to him say he was eager to make the Muscle Shoals record. “It was weird,” said Was. “I knew, and I knew that he knew, but we never talked about it once. I think a certain refusal to accept it is what kept him going longer than doctors said he would.” In hindsight, it’s obvious that Allman saw Southern Blood as his valediction. The first words of the album’s opening track, the country-blues ballad “My Only True Friend,” spell it out: “You and I both know this river will surely flow to an end.”

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In March of 1969, the Allman Brothers Band formed in Jacksonville, where most of the members were living at the time. Their first concert under that name was at the Jax Beach Auditorium on March 26, 1969.

BORN A RAMBLIN’ MAN

The band broke up in 1976 and completely reformed in 1979 (it had gotten back together in 1978, but not all members had returned yet). In 1979 Gregg moved to Siesta Key to write music with Dickey Betts.

The song, co-written by Allman and guitarist Scott Sharrard and, notably, Allman’s only writing credit on the album, takes the form of a message to a lover, but, according to Was, it meant much more to him than that. “He’s explaining to the world what the people who knew him knew: He was complete as a human being, and very happy and at his best, when he was on stage playing music,” Was said. “He truly lived to do that. And the challenges he faced in life were what to do with himself between tours and shows. He lays it out in a very honest and extremely vulnerable way. … Really, everything you need to know about Gregg Allman is in that opening song.” Allman and Was took a good two years to decide what to include, and the tracks aren’t all in the same register. There are songs by some of Allman’s favorite artists, including “Willin” by Lowell George, “Black Muddy River” by Jerry Garcia and Robert Hunter, and blues giant Willie Dixon’s “I Love the Life I Live.” “Blind Bats and Swamp Rats” is a track from the blues singer Johnny Jenkins’s 1970 album Ton-Ton Macoute!, which Duane Allman produced and played on during his Muscle Shoals days. There’s also a gorgeous, churched-up performance of the obscure Bob Dylan song “Going, Going, Gone,” with gosAbove from top: pel harmonies by the McCrary Sisters Gregg with guitarists Scott and a horn section resonant with that Sharrard and Taj unmistakable Muscle Shoals sound— Mahal; Gregg with manager warm and sweet like honeyed whiskey. longtime and friend Michael “The horn players, they don’t get their Lehman

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own microphones,” Was explained. “You stand in the little glass booth where the horn players stood in the ’60s, … and the horn players have to balance themselves around one mic. … You’re getting a lot of reflections off the walls. So the horns sound like all the other horns that have been there. … It’s incredible to be in the presence of that.” After all their preparation, Was, Allman and the band “flew through it,” Was said. THE HIT LIST “Despite the gravitas of the material, the sessions were quite light hearted and a lot of fun. “ by Gregg Allman Upbeat for most of the interview, the producer got emotional when discussing the album’s closing track, “Song for Adam.” The “ Southern Blood” song was written by Jackson Browne, the composer of the song “These Days,” which Gregg recorded for his “All My Friends” first solo album, Laid Back. Browne and Allman were roommates in Los Angeles for a brief spell. “It’s about a buddy of “Low Country Blues”

IN RECENT YEARS

2017 2014

2011

ROUNDER RECORDS

WHILE TENNESSEE AND GEORGIA LOOM LARGE IN ALLMAN’S HISTORY, MANY turning points in his LIFE AND career played out IN THE SUNSHINE STATE.

In 1958, Gregg, Duane and their mom, Geraldine, moved from Nashville to Daytona Beach. As teenagers, Gregg and Duane formed their first band and played gigs all over Daytona.

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Gregg performing in Jones Beach, N.Y., in 2015

THE HIT LIST

CLASSIC ALBUMS t The Allman Bros. Band

1969 1971 “At Fillmore East”

This page: Gregg at the

Lakewood Amphitheatre in Atlanta on Oct. 29, 2016. It was the last concert he ever played.

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1972 “Eat a Peach”

COURTESY ROUNDER RECORDS

“The Allman Brothers Band”

Jackson’s who either fell or jumped off a mountain while he was hiking and died,” Was said. “In the story of squelched promise of a young life, I think that Gregg always thought about Duane. He can’t quite sing the last two lines. He got choked up.” The producer recited the line that moved the singer so much: “Still it seems he stopped his singing in the middle of his song. Well, I’m not the one to say I know, This page from top: The Allman Brothers but I’m hoping he was wrong.” Band at the Beacon Theatre in NYC in Browne lends harmonies to the 2014; Gregg with new version, but rather than rerecord Middleton; Gregg with his son Devon the final lines, “we all agreed we’d just leave it open. I can still picture Gregg choking up,” Was said. The silent lines are especially touching now. Those close to Allman thought he might live to see the record’s release. “You know how you have a friend, and you don’t give a damn what happens to this friend, you know they’re going to overcome it and be okay? That’s the attitude we had with him. He even had it with himself up until the last few months,” Middleton said. “I always thought he would bounce back.” To call Allman resilient doesn’t quite cut it. “That’s the understatement of the year,”

Devon Allman said. “He must have saved a truckload of nuns in his former life. He had somebody looking down after him. I say that cheekily, but also it’s truly a gift to have had him as long as we had him. He dealt with major losses all through his life. He had a boatload of regret always sitting on his heart, in regards to the failed marriages and the children he never raised. He pushed through, he wrote music, and he played to make people feel good.” Devon Allman, who first met his father when he was 17, quoted a piece of fan mail that the performer once received. “Thank you for living the life we could never live, for giving us the music that we could never live without.” “When we look into the life of Gregg Allman, most people would not really want that life, but everybody wants the music,” Devon Allman said. “I thought that was probably the coolest thing a man ever said to him, and I think it pretty much sums it up.”

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Life, Liberty & the Pursuit k Filmmaking Moonlight’s incredible success at the Oscars earlier this year hasn’t changed Barry Jenkins, whose upbringing in Miami’s Liberty City housing project inspired him to make the film.

By STEVE DOLLAR Photography by ROBERT M. HOWARD

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Showbiz personalities who materialize out of seemingly nowhere to seize a pop-culture moment—or an Academy Award— can occasionally be expected to assume airs of false modesty. No one, however, can accuse Barry Jenkins of putting on an act. The 37-year-old Miami native shocked the world when Moonlight, his piercingly intimate drama about a young black man’s coming of age, won the 2017 Academy Award for Best Picture. Just moments before jenkins learned of his big win at the oscars, Faye Dunaway had mistakenly announced that the musical La La Land had won the Oscar.

Jenkins presents Moonlight at the Ruby Diamond Concert Hall. Opposite: Jenkins chats with students at the FSU College of Motion Picture Arts.

“I had the kind of experience very few people have,” Jenkins told a crowd at Florida State University’s Ruby Diamond Concert Hall during a post-Oscar visit to his alma mater in March. “For two minutes, I didn’t win best picture, and I felt damn fine with it. I was already on the phone, texting my folks, saying, ‘Where’s my champagne?’” The Great Oscar Goof was an unscripted, dramatic climax to an amazing journey for Moonlight, and for Jenkins and a close-knit team of artists, many of whom first met as students at FSU’s College of Motion Picture Arts in the early 2000s. Since the award ceremony, the group hasn’t lost any momentum. This summer, The New York Times film critics A.O. Scott and Manohla Dargis ranked Moonlight No. 20 on their list of the 25 best films of the 21st century. Scott wrote that the film “demonstrates that honest, alert storytelling and formal inventiveness can have political implications. Like [its protagonist] Chiron, the movie never raises its voice or makes an overt argument.” Jenkins was not so soft-spoken when asked for details on his next film, offering an emphatic “No!” to the inquiring

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For two minutes, I didn’t win best picture, and I felt damn fine with it. —Barry Jenkins

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Award-nominated Moonlight editors Nat Sanders and Joi McMillon, he faced a lot of suffering and struggle. After college, Jenkins moved to Los Angeles and worked for Oprah Winfrey’s Harpo Productions for two years. Jenkins left L.A. for San Francisco—a romance was involved—where he ended up working at Banana Republic. With a $15,000 loan from a friend and the help of several key FSU classmates, he eventually made a breakthrough with his 2008 debut, the romance Medicine for Melancholy. It was almost a decade before he made another feature film.

DAVID BORNFRIEND, A 24

minds who attended his talk at FSU. Beyond his cinematic pursuits, Jenkins is the writer and director of a new dramatic series for Amazon, based on Colson Whitehead’s The Underground Railroad, a National Book Award winner. The novel reimagines the historical network as an actual railway that carries slaves out of the American South to freedom. The project reunites Jenkins with his Moonlight team, including producer Adele Romanski, his former classmate. In May, it was reported that Pastel, the production company that Jenkins runs with Romanski and two other partners, had signed a two-year production deal with Annapurna Pictures, the motion picture company led by 31-year-old Hollywood game-changer Megan Ellison. Their first project is an adaptation of James Baldwin’s This page above: 1974 novel If Beale Street Could A Moonlight scene with Mahershala Ali and Alex Talk, scheduled to begin shooting Hibbert Below: Hibbert with co-star Jaden Piner in October. Opposite, clockwise The filmmaker hasn’t always from top: Movie scenes been so successful, of course. As with Hibbert; Trevante Rhodes; Jharrel Jerome, he told students at the FSU film left, and Ashton school earlier in the day, accomSanders; Sanders; and Naomie Harris panied by friends and Academy

He had other things to occupy his time, of course, including jobs shooting commercials and a stint in the writers’ room of HBO’s The Leftovers. Still, much of the period was spent in what he called “development hell,” as one ambitious project after another failed to jell. “I felt like I had a scarlet letter on my chest,” he told the students. “I hated going to film festivals, not capitalizing on that first film. At some point you’ve got to take a risk on

yourself and your friends. Sacrifice is a big thing for all of us. I slept on a lot of couches. This was two years ago. It wasn’t 12 or 14 years ago. But sacrifice—there’s a trade-off for sure.” Jenkins’s return to Tallahassee was that of a conquering hero, but, clad in a dark pullover sweater, an untucked Oxford shirt and black jeans, he was a characteristically low-key version of the archetype. At a glance, one might not have registered just how deep his Florida roots, and those of Moonlight, really run. The film’s story, expanded from playwright Tarell Alvin McCraney’s play In Moonlight Black Boys Look Blue, follows a child from a Liberty City housing project as he grows into manhood, embraces his sexuality and at last expresses his true inner self. Both Jenkins and McCraney spent their childhoods in the Liberty Square public housing complex, nicknamed Pork and Beans. They lived only a few blocks away from each other, although they

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IN GOOD COMPANY Florida State University’s College of Motion Picture Arts has produced a number of impressive young talents. Here’s a list of several FSU alumni directors to watch (including a couple who graduated with different degrees).

Wes Ball (’02)

The visual effects wizard directs the Maze Runner franchise, whose third installment—The Death Cure—is due next year.

Kat Candler (’08)

Her 2013 short Black Metal was a prize-winning festival favorite, leading to the writerdirector’s feature debut Hellion (2014), starring Aaron Paul. More recently, Candler’s been directing Ava DuVernay’s series Queen Sugar on the Oprah Winfrey Network.

David Robert Mitchell (’02)

Mitchell shimmies between genres, with a suburban teen drama, The Myth of the American Sleepover (2011), and an inventive horror film, It Follows (2014), to his name. He now turns to contemporary film noir in the upcoming Under the Silver Lake.

Aaron Moorhead (’08)

Along with creative partner Justin Benson, the director and cinematographer has made two critically acclaimed horror films with sly comedic edges, Resolution (2012) and Spring (2014). In their latest film, The Endless, the pair take the leads as brothers who return to a mysterious death cult.

Amy Seimetz (’03)

She’s been an MVP on the indie film scene for more than a decade, during which she appeared in dozens of films and helped produce many of them, as well. Seimetz broke out as a writer-director with 2012’s Sun Don’t Shine, a lovers-on-the-run thriller that gave South Florida its humid, dreamy due. She recently helmed the second season of The Girlfriend Experience for executive producer Steven Soderbergh and the Starz network.

never met as kids. Moonlight was filmed there. “I do remember just how small the neighborhood was,” Jenkins said, in a conversation before the film had won any accolades. “It was shocking to think that the whole world could be such a small place.” It was not the sort of place likely to encourage artistic endeavors. “I grew up pretty similar to the way the character Little grows up in the movie,” said Jenkins, whose childhood coincided with the crack epidemic of the 1980s and ‘90s. “My mom became addicted to drugs pretty early.” Thankfully, Jenkins had encouragement from an early age. “The only thing was, when I was in the third grade, I had this teacher. I remember my grandma used to take me fishing on the weekends, to the Everglades and the upper Florida Keys. We’d just fish off the —Barry Jenkins side of a bridge.” The teacher asked Jenkins to write about those excursions and read his work to the class. “The whole point was nobody else was getting out of the projects on the weekends, and she wanted me to share with my classmates what that was like. And that’s the first anyone ever told me to write my story down. I had her again for the fourth grade. She was the first person to tell me I was special. She used to tell me ‘Barry, you’re going to be the first black president,’” he explained. (We both laughed. It was a Barry, just not a Jenkins.) That experience continued to shape his evolution as an artist. A decade later, Jenkins moved to Tallahassee to study creative writing. “It wasn’t therapy,” he recalled. “I was drawn to the idea of creating things.” While at FSU, he developed a bond with one of his professors, the novelist Elizabeth Stuckey-French. “The first short story I remember writing in her class, it was so weird,” he said. “It was about this couple falling out of the sky. They lived in some kind of a penthouse, and some random single-prop plane came smashing through their window. It was pre-9/11, [but] I saw this image of people falling out of the sky. It was almost the Left: Jenkins answers film ideal of how your life flashes before your students’ eyes, and this guy is recounting the whole questions during a master class at story of their relationship as they’re falling his alma mater.

I do remember just how small the neighborhood was. It was shocking to think that the whole world could be such a small place.

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SUNSHINE SCREENINGS F L OR I D A H AS D O Z ENS O F ANNU A L FILM FESTIVALS, BIG AND S M A L L , E A C H N U R TU RING TH E NEXT BA RRY J ENK INS. H ER E A R E F I V E WORTH M AK ING A RO AD TRIP TO ATTEND. Key West Film Festival

Now in its sixth year, this emerging festival makes the most of its tropical locale, with beach screenings and fancy cocktail parties under the palm trees at iconic sites such as the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum and President Harry S. Truman’s Little White House. Previous guests of honor have included Burt Reynolds and Elle director Paul Verhoeven, but the fest also invites leading North American film critics to host seminars and share their favorite new films. Its unique vibe blends rum-soaked hedonism with ardent cinephilia. Nov. 15–19, 2017 kwfilmfest.com

Florida Film Festival

This Orlando festival, launched 27 years ago, overlaps with its Sarasota neighbor, but it certainly doesn’t suffer by comparison. Films that win the festival’s award for best narrative short or its accolade for best animated short become eligible for an Academy Award, which makes this event Florida’s only Oscar-qualifying film festival. The festival also boasts firstrate independent features and a roster of noteworthy special guests, such as actor Billy Crudup and Airplane! writerdirector David Zucker. The 10-day festival is centered around Maitland’s Enzian Theater, where patrons can also enjoy drinks from an outdoor bar while sitting around a courtyard fountain. Late April 2018 floridafilmfestival.com

Miami Film Festival

With screenings staged at theaters in South Beach, Little Havana, the Wynwood Arts District and Coral Gables, this festival, organized by Miami Dade College, shows off the city’s vibrant cultural landscape as surely as it spotlights international cinema. The lineup focuses on Latin American and Spanishlanguage cinema, as well as documentaries. March 9–18, 2018 miamifilmfestival.com

Tally Shorts Film Festival

Short films are a tall order at this recent addition to the Florida filmfest scene. Heading into its sixth year, the festival plays out in downtown Tallahassee’s Challenger Learning Center, famous for its Digital Dome Theatre and planetarium programs. Over the course of two days, filmmakers from around the world experience themed screenings and parties taking place around Tally at the Florida State University campus, the state capitol and Cascades Park. Jan. 26–27, 2018 tallyshorts.com

Sarasota Film Festival

Want to meet the next hot indie film sensation? You don’t have to pull on your snow boots and hike through the thin air at Sundance in the middle of January. The sharp-eyed programmers of this springtime cinematic spree corral the most promising young talent into sun-drenched settings perfect for mingling. Independent dramas and comedies are the Sarasota festival’s mainstay, but be sure to keep an eye out for thoughtful documentaries on a wide range of issues. April 13–22, 2018 sarasotafilmfestival.com

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to the ground. Again, nothing to do with who I am or where I’m from, it was just an exercise. I had a dream and I wanted to see if I could turn that dream into a short story. I remember workshopping it in her class, and I felt like, ‘Oh this is cool, this thing didn’t exist before I wrote it. You can create things.’ I got hooked on the idea of creating things.” Jenkins made a lasting impression on Stuckey-French. “You tend to remember certain kinds of students,” said the professor, who still teaches at FSU. “He already seemed focused, a centered person, and even then I could imagine him being totally at home in any kind of situation, talking to anybody. He didn’t come across as being full of himself. He was very poised and self-possessed and really curious about writing and everything. He was always watching and listening and taking everything in. He already seemed like he really had a vision and had something he wanted to express.” This spring, the filmmaker joined McCraney in Miami to participate in the “Moonlight Celebration” and the christening of “Moonlight Way,” a stretch of NW 22nd Avenue adjacent to the African Heritage Cultural Arts Center in Liberty City. The men first met through Andrew Hevia, an FSU classmate who worked on Moonlight, and Lucas Leyva, one of the founders of the Borscht Corporation, a nonprofit group that promotes creative voices and cultural perspectives that are often stifled by the “mainstream.” The success of Moonlight “vindicated a lot of the rhetoric and purpose of the organization, that world-class artistic work can be created [here], giving people the belief that Miami stories matter,” said Leyva, who also oversees the cheerfully gonzo film festival that Borscht stages roughly every year-and-a-half. Moonlight’s impact continues to resonate: With financial support from Jenkins and McCraney, a cinematic arts summer program was launched at the arts center, where McCraney himself once studied. Leyva recounted a story that Jenkins told about a moment during a brisk Miami shoot. “He was filming in Liberty City, and he turns around and sees a bunch of kids from the neighborhood huddled around the video [monitors], trying on the headphones and watching him work,” Leyva recalled. “And [Barry] said he had a moment where he realized how insane it was. He had been one of those kids. He thought if he and his friends had seen someone like him, with actors that looked like them … maybe there would be a different sort of outcome for people in the neighborhood.

MICHAEL LIESCH, MIAMI DADE COLLEGE, JOHN PAR A /GET T Y IMAGES FOR SAR ASOTA FILM FESTIVAL

Something as simple as seeing your story on film, told by people that look like you … it does something. —Lucas Leyva

Something as simple as seeing your story on film, told by people that look like you, and it being rewarded by peers who say this is something of value … I think it does something.” It’s no exaggeration to suggest that the empathy inspired by the film, which seems to be a guiding light in Jenkins’s work, has significant and very topical real-life relevance. When he talks about the struggle of its vulnerable hero, what he describes sounds a lot like the fundamental fact of the blues. “Right now, people need to see people who are dealing with things and not being destroyed by them,” Jenkins said. “This idea of perseverance of a human soul, I think it’s an idea people don’t realize … [there is] so much of the dark nature of the media coverage that we’re becoming accustomed to these days. I think people really respond to seeing another human being go through some very real things and persevere. People see this character Chiron [and] the very heavy world he’s living in and the very heavy things he’s dealing with. It didn’t fully destroy him, and by the end of the film, audiences have the idea that he’s going to go on, that he won’t be destroyed. And that resonates, you know?”

Above: Jenkins poses with ecstatic FSU film students.

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In the 1970s, a move to Key West inspired an aspiring country singer to create a new brand of laid-back music about life on the sea and in the bar. Over the years, Jimmy Buffettâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tales of the good life have enraptured millions, influenced a new crop of tropical troubadours and even invaded Nashvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s traditional turf.

Gone

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Coastal By

KATIE HENDRICK

Photography by

MARY BETH KOETH

Vintage Photography by TOM CORCORAN

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Compasses come in unusual for ms In October 1971, following a disappointing attempt to break into Nashville’s country music scene, Jimmy Buffett, the 24-year-old aspiring singer-songwriter from Mobile, Alabama, heeded the advice of an acquaintance, Jerry Jeff Walker of “Mr. Bojangles” fame, who had suggested he check out the Flick, an unassuming music hall in Coconut Grove that had previously helped launch the careers of Joni Mitchell and John Denver. Walker and his girlfriend, Murph, lived nearby and had invited Buffett to crash with them anytime. Before he left Nashville, Buffett had booked a gig, but when he showed up the day after arriving in Miami, the club’s owner, Warren Dirken, insisted that Buffett had the wrong date and told him to come back in two weeks. Not the

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Jimmy Buffett in the lower Florida Keys “backcountry” in 1976; John Patti at one of his favorite venues, the Nav-AGator Grill in Arcadia This page from top:

Jimmy Buffett on the first Margaritaville Tour in Savannah Ga., in 1977; a performance at Casa Marina for Meeting of the Minds Opposite: The NavA-Gator has earned the nickname “The Grand Ole Opry of Trop Rock.”

ROB O’NEAL

arlier this year, on the Friday before Memorial Day, holiday revelers crowded onto the back patio at Caddy’s, a beachfront bar on Treasure Island, where they enjoyed fruity cocktails, a majestic sunset and a soundtrack that perfectly summarized the lighthearted atmosphere. “Out here off the shoreline, the master plan is fate. The mermaids must have music, songs for evening’s sake.” After kicking off the performance with “Shoreline,” his biggest hit, singer-songwriter John Frinzi helped the crowd unwind with upbeat melodies extolling the beauty of the sand and sea, each punctuated by the reverberations of percussionist John Patti’s steel drums. For hours, the two artists, both of whom perform on Radio Margaritaville, entertained an audience of preschoolers, silver foxes and everyone in between, all dancing and singing along. As the night wound down, the duo transitioned from original material to covers. In a tribute to the man who had paved the way for both their careers, they performed Jimmy Buffett’s 1974 “The Wino and I Know,” one of the prolific musician’s more obscure works: “It’s a strange situation, a wild occupation, Living my life like a song.” Artists inspired by Buffett, along with a few of his friends, chatted with Flamingo about the maestro’s influence and the wild and wonderful rise of tropical music.

least perturbed by their guest’s extended visit, Walker and Murph decided to give Buffett a proper Florida orientation during his downtime. They loaded into the Flying Lady, Walker’s 1947 Packard sedan, and drove to their stomping grounds in Key West. Their first stop: the Chart Room, where Tom Corcoran, an old friend of Walker’s, was tending bar. “That day, there were no hints of the superstar he would become,” recalls Corcoran, now a novelist living in Lakeland. “He walked in trailing Jerry Jeff Walker and Murphy. He was just an appendage there.” Corcoran offered the young man a drink. “He looked around to see what others were having and settled on a Heineken.” That timidity didn’t stick. After his performance at the Flick, Buffett promptly moved to the island. Once he settled in, he asked to play at the Chart Room in return for booze. Corcoran agreed to the deal—he liked Buffett’s vibe. As it turned out, so did the bar’s patrons. Emboldened by their applause, Buffett began eyeing top-shelf liquor. Even in the early days, Buffett displayed exceptional business acumen. The Chart Room, Corcoran says, was a wise choice of venue. The bar, a converted hotel room with only six barstools and three tables, catered to local politicians, who received every third drink for free. “Jimmy knew the power of this play,” Corcoran says. “He slapped a bumper sticker on his guitar case that read ‘Support Your Local Sheriff’ in red, white and blue. So the sheriff actually became a fan.” In time, the sheriff’s soft spot for the musician would lead him to turn a blind eye to the mischief that inspired much of Buffett’s early work. In his new town, Buffett quickly fell in with a boisterous tribe that included Corcoran; the saltwater sportsman and fishing writer Guy de la Valdene; the authors Jim Harrison and Thomas McGuane, Buffett’s future brother-in-law; and the painter Russell Chatham. They called themselves Club Mandible—a “totally nonsensical name,” Corcoran says—and made it their mission to enjoy island living to the fullest. During

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their escapades in boats and bars around the Keys, they encountered a host of characters, including shrimpers, smugglers and a nine-fingered piano player. Enchanted with the awe-inspiring natural beauty of the islands, Buffett started writing tunes like “I Have Found Me a Home,” a sonnet for Key West; “Grapefruit—Juicy Fruit,” a ditty about drinking and flirting; and “Cuban Crime of Passion,” a fictional account, co-written with Corcoran, of an ill-fated love triangle. He packaged the songs in the 1973 album A White Sport Coat and a Pink Crustacean, giving the world its first taste of a new genre. The music was soon dubbed “gulf and western.” It was a riff on the name of a major apparel and entertainment conglomerate, but it was also an apt description of a musician who combined country, rock and pop with stories about sailing, fishing and gallivanting in the Gulf of Mexico, a style that would only become more distinctive—and popular. “There’s no doubt that Buffett had great talent, but, in order to stand out as a performer, he needed to find his muse,” says William McKeen, the author of Mile Marker Zero: The Moveable Feast of Key West. McKeen is also the former chair of the University of Florida College of Journalism and Communications, where he taught rock ’n’ roll history for 24 years. “Key West served that purpose.”

Qui e tly M a king N o ise As Buffett worked and played in the Florida sun, producing a new album almost every year, From left: Kim Paige, at the Island Hopper his music began to have a Songwriter Festival; ripple effect 1,500 miles John Frinzi, playing Sheena Brook north, where a preteen guitar; at the Island Hopper Songwriter Fest Frinzi was performing in

local bands, searching for his niche. Born into a family of music lovers, he’d cut his teeth on jazz, blues and big band—his father’s favorites—and folk and rock, his brothers’ preferences. But when his oldest brother, Mike, made him a mixtape of Buffett ballads, he found his passion. Buffett became the soundtrack of his teenage years and his twenties. “I was in my green ’74 [Chevrolet] Nova. I remember listening to [Buffett] on the way to high school. I didn’t quite understand it at the time, but I think it was an escapist thing. I spent time on the Jersey Shore, but not the Keys or the Caribbean, so hearing about these wonderful places, these wild songs about Key West, it was exciting,” Frinzi recalls. Rhythmically, Buffett meshed with other artists Frinzi appreciated, like Jackson Brown, James Taylor and the Eagles, but, lyrically, he presented something totally different. “For him, he was writing about what he was living. For me, it was like, ‘That sounds like a cool place to be,’” he says. Eager to take friends and family along for a virtual vacation, Frinzi did Buffett covers before it was de rigueur for anyone who wanted to sing at a bar. In 2003, after spending more than 20 years studying the master’s storytelling, Frinzi, then in his mid-thirties, broke into Buffett’s inner circle.

FORT MYERS-SANIBEL.COM, TOM CORCOR AN, ROB O’NEAL

This page: Jimmy

Buffett at the Meeting of the Minds

Gulf & Western TakestheStage

PINE CREEK SPORTING CLUB

Want to hear these tropical troubadours en masse? Here are some of the state’s music festivals that celebrate the trop rock genre.

ISLAND HOPPER SONGWRITER FESTIVAL

Captiva Island, Fort Myers Sept. 22–Oct. 1 island-hopper.fortmyerssanibel.com

PENSACOLA BEACH SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL

Pensacola Beach Oct. 4–8 pensacolabeachsongfest .com

FRANK BROWN INTERNATIONAL SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL Pensacola Nov. 9–19 frankbrownsongwriters .com

MEETING OF THE MINDS Key West Nov. 1–5 phip.com/meeting

30A SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL

Santa Rosa Beach, Rosemary Beach, Miramar Beach, Seaside Jan. 12–15, 2018 30asongwritersfestival .com

KEY WEST SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL Key West May 9–13, 2018 keywestsongwriters festival.com

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The fledgling artist had sent demos to a handful of companies, expecting to be blown off by all of them, but one day Doyle Grisham, the pedal steel guitarist in Buffett’s Coral Reefer Band, reached out. The pair subsequently recorded “Into the Dawn together.” “At first I thought it was one of my friends pranking me,” Frinzi says of that first phone call from Grisham. “Doyle was my first choice, but I was sure he was out of my league.” Frinzi soon emerged as a top talent in the gulf and western world and received invites to marquee events, such as the Key West Songwriters Festival and the Meeting of the Minds, an annual convention for Buffett fanatics. He has performed with nearly every Coral Reefer. In 2007, he finally escaped New England winters, moving to Lakeland, whose central location makes it perfect for a traveling musician. Shortly after settling in, he bumped into Tom Corcoran in a Publix checkout line. The two have since co-written several songs, including “Shoreline.”

Cha n g in g C h an n e ls In the ’80s, the gulf began to overtake the western in Buffett’s music. With the addition of the Trinidadian steel drum player Robert Greenidge, the Coral Reefer Band acquired an island flavor that matched Buffett’s lyrics. The change “really distinguished his sound,” explains John Patti, 34. The Sarasota-based steel drum player has recorded three albums and played at sporting events and concerts before thousands of people. He credits Buffett for popularizing his once-obscure instrument. Patti discovered steel drums at age 9 during a trip to Sesame Place, a Pennsylvania theme park

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based on the PBS children’s show. The park had a set fashioned to look like Oscar the Grouch’s trash cans, which kids could bang with abandon. His first strike of the mallet produced a “hypnotic, happy sound,” Patti recalls. His parents bought him his own drums, but they couldn’t find anyone in their hometown of Baltimore who could teach him to play, so they turned to their extensive collection of Buffett albums. “I listened to his songs over and over again and tried to play along,” Patti says. “Eventually, I got the rhythm down.” The self-taught musician’s skills eventually earned him a scholarship to West Virginia University. Even before that, however, Patti’s sound made him famous in the Parrot Head community, a worldwide network of Buffett fans. At a 1998 fundraiser concert hosted by his local Parrot Head club, Patti’s high school band opened for A1A, an acclaimed Buffett cover band. Patti hung around after the show to jam, and, a few months This page: John Patti on the steel drums later, A1A asked him to at the Nav-A-Gator; Paul McDonald on the play at the Meeting of beach at Island Hopper the Minds. He accepted Songwriter Festival

FORT MYERS-SANIBEL.COM

This page: Patti,

with his steel drum, credits Buffett with popularizing his once-obscure instrument.

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Mother, Mother Ocean, I Have Heard You Call

The Sunshine State’s influence on country music

o down the list of country stars and it’s hard to find someone who hasn’t sung something tropical,” Frinzi says. Kenny Chesney, Alan Jackson and Zac Brown all have songs about beaches, boats and beers. In fact, these three artists have done more than emulate Buffett’s style; they’ve all recorded a track with him. The plethora of country crooners diving into tropical territory isn’t without cause: For starters, some of the world’s most popular songwriting festivals take place in Florida. “Most of Nashville relocates to Key West for a week in May,” says Frinzi. “The people writing for all the top country artists are heavily influenced by their time in Key West.” The 30A Songwriters Festival draws a similar crowd in winter. That area also teems with vacation homes for the biggest names in the Nashville music business, including Luke Bryan, Tim McGraw and Faith Hill. “This is the vacation destination of a lot of Nashvillians,” says Bryan Kennedy, 56, a longtime songwriter for Garth Brooks. “If they’re not on tour, they’re probably here hanging out.” Kennedy, the son of Grammy-nominated musician Jerry Kennedy, spent most of his life in the Music City, but he relocated to Santa Rosa Beach in 2007. Around the same time, he began to notice the effect of streaming services like Spotify on the way people consumed music. “I knew I needed to get out of the Nashville model—I could tell it was going to be all about manufacturing songs,” he says. “It’s such a fight to do it your own way. But I don’t think you ever fail if you are true to yourself.” On morning runs along the Gulf Coast, Kennedy has found inspiration for three albums. He’s not alone in his pursuits. “We have so many venues here in this little 20mile stretch of road and so many talented musicians who are truly local,” he says.

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the invitation and, at age 16, appeared on stage with the Coral Reefers in front of 3,500 people. Years later, he played with Frinzi at the Meeting of the Minds. Now that they both live in Florida, they book gigs together. Performing with the Coral Reefers definitely ranks among Patti’s most surreal moments, but he has an even harder time believing he’s made a career out of his hobby. “Nowadays, everyone loves that Florida island lifestyle, which, fortunately for me, allowed me to fall into a career. I have degrees in marketing and logistics, and I fully intended to use them,” he says.

JIM TIZZANO, FORT MYERS-SANIBEL.COM

Everybody’s Got a Cousin in Margaritaville Buffett’s rise from bar busker to cultural icon took an unusual trajectory. “He [built] a solid fan base by appearing in concert. He had remarkably little airplay, perhaps because DJs didn’t know how to classify him,” says Steve Huntington, who worked at Sarasota’s WQSR-FM, one of the few radio stations that featured Buffett in their regular rotations in the 1970s. In 1998, Buffett, still grateful for the early support, asked Huntington to help launch Radio Margaritaville, a 24/7 Internet station created to meet the demand for Buffett’s musical style. The station was acquired by Sirius Satellite Radio, now known as SiriusXM, in 2005. Today, it continues to give gulf and western artists national exposure. “I don’t know where I’d be without Radio Margaritaville,” says Frinzi. He frequently spots Huntington at his shows. Camaraderie runs deep among musicians, says Patti. The drummer has made connections with seasoned pros like Frinzi, Orlando’s Jimi Pappas and James “Sunny Jim” White of Osprey. “They’re great mentors who enjoy seeing their friends in this business succeed,” he says. The musicians are also Opposite from left: John grateful for the loyalty of the Frinzi can be Parrot Heads, who often open heard on Radio Margaritaville; their homes to performers. In Jimmy Buffett in Montserrat his 30-plus years in the busiin ’79 with ness, White, 60, has lost count Euphoria II at anchor of the number of backyards

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Ashley Gearing strumming in the waves at the Island Hopper Songwriter Festival

and living rooms he’s played in. “House concerts are the best way to experience music. It’s a close, intimate environment,” he says. Parrot Heads, he adds, “are great fans. They’re not looking at a TV or playing with their phones. They tune in, buy our albums and tell their friends about us.”

Cheeseburger in Paradise Huntington expects the ranks of gulf and western artists to continue growing. “Buffett’s lyrics and melodies are built on some universal truths,” he says. “Whoever you are, wherever you’re from, whatever your job is, you can’t go at full speed all the time. People want to be warm, sipping a refreshing beverage—whether it has an umbrella in it or not. If they can’t be there in person, they can experience it through [Buffett’s] music.” Buffett’s collaboration with mainstream country stars has fueled gulf and western’s popularity. In 2003, “It’s Five O’Clock Somewhere,” a duet with Alan Jackson, won the Country Music Association’s award for musical event of the year and was named the Academy of Country Music’s single of the year. The following year, he released License to Chill, a 16-track album featuring notable country singers. In 2006, he was inducted into the Nashville Songwriters Hall of Fame. “He’d never come out and say it, but it must be immensely satisfying to be successful in the community that originally rejected him,” says Corcoran. He’s relieved his friend finally landed in the annals of country greats, but he’s even happier that Buffett took a detour via A1A on his way there.

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outside

Box Forget the executive suites of yesteryear. Floridaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three NFL stadiums are moving the chains toward more luxurious game day goals.

By BETTY CORTINA-WEISS

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This page: Luxury stadium seating at the 72 Club in Hard Rock Stadium

he competition is fierce, and we’re not even talking about what’s happening on the gridiron. As Florida’s three NFL teams—the Dolphins, the Jags and the Bucs—have vacillated up and down the league rankings in recent years, frustrated fans have left the stands and begun to watch the games on their big screens at home. The team owners, however, have worked hard to entice the crowds of big spenders back into the stadiums, upping the glam factor as only Floridians can. Once confined to executive suites, wellheeled football fans can now experience the action in even greater velvet-rope opulence, including everything from swimming pools and speakeasy-style clubs to lounge seating at the 50-yard line and gourmet restaurants.

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M IAM I D O LP H I N S MIAMI DOLPHINS THIS PAGE AND PREVIOUS

HARD ROCK STADIUM

When Samuel Yeboah bought season tickets to the 72 Club last year, the South Florida attorney and Miami Dolphins fan already knew a thing or two about luxury. Hard Rock Stadium’s ultra-premium seating section offered plenty of familiar accommodations—plush seats, gourmet dining options, and in-seat drink service. But, after he stepped inside the arena to find his way to his seat, it hit him. “You’re right there on the field,” he recalled, smiling, with a hint of delighted disbelief, at the location of his seat—at the 50-yard line, just behind the bench. “It’s so close it feels like you can talk to the players and coaches. That right there was

a wow moment, even for me!” Over the last two years, the stadium, home to the Miami Hurricanes, the Orange Bowl and a variety of other sports and entertainment events in addition to Dolphins games, has undergone a $500 million renovation. The project, paid for by Dolphins owner Stephen Ross, has brought some serious bling to the already commanding structure, including new high-definition video boards, a roof over the main seating areas, high-end clubs and premium seating in areas previously off-limits to fans. The luxury sector was the principal focus of the additions, said Jeremy Walls, the Dolphins’ chief marketing officer. Each private club has a unique identity. The 72 Club’s lounge, for instance, was inspired by Miami Beach’s Soho Beach House hotel and features locally made food and a

HOW THE STADIUMS STACK UP: HARD ROCK STADIUM Miami Gardens

* Opened in 1987 of more * Capacity 65,000 than * 216 luxury suites * $500 million renovation began in 2015

Above from left: Miami Dolphins players in action; a mixologist whips up a cocktail inside Nine

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MIAMI

Pre and Post-Game Plays

Explore the best places to eat, stay and shop in these NFL cities 72

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SLEEP & CHILL Kimpton Epic Hotel Perfect for the impossibly hip traveler, this hotel is situated where the Miami River and Biscayne Bay meet— in downtown Miami, but just far enough from the hustle and bustle. The rooftop bar, with spectacular sweeping views, is not to be missed. epichotel.com

Mandarin Oriental An icon of Miami’s new skyline, the towering hotel is located on Brickell Key, across a short causeway from downtown Miami. It’s home to one of the city’s only five-star spas and features a private beach. mandarinoriental .com/miami

Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club Completely revamped this year, the storied oasis—once frequented by the glitterati of the ’30s, ’40s and ’50s—sits on Miami Beach’s north end in the charming Surfside area, just blocks from the worldclass shopping at Bal Harbour. fourseasons.com/ surfside

MIAMI DOLPHINS, MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL GROUP, CHRISTIAN HOR AN

This page from top: high-end bar. The Atos and Ford Artwork at the field clubs, located behind the east entrance of the 72 Club; fans cheer at and west end zones respectively, the Nine “have more of a speakeasy feel,” Opposite: The interior Walls said. The stadium’s newest of Nine club and, according to Walls, the highlight of this year’s season, is Nine, whose members enjoy a private lounge and open-air suites reminiscent of a yacht deck. Perks also include pregame field access, a personal concierge, two Super Bowl

tickets and an annual dinner with legendary quarterback Dan Marino. Yet, for all the luxury, extravagant lounges aren’t all that make the stadium’s upgrades unique. “Our goal was to make the stadium a global entertainment destination, and not just for football,” said Walls. “The idea was to create experiences that had never been created in sports.” Among the stadium’s new services are a town car service to shuttle premium ticketholders between home and stadium and a private parking entrance for the high rollers who do drive themselves. “Time is the most valuable thing to our customers,” Walls said. “We made getting here easier, better and faster.” Dolphins management paid just as much attention to what happens within the stadium. Rather than hiring an outside contractor to provide ushers and other customer-service employees, “we brought everyone in-house, and we hired a consultant, formerly of the RitzCarlton, to train employees in how to deliver the best service. We want people to feel the

difference in every interaction,” Walls said. The Dolphins also partnered with Uber to carve out a designated area for the ride-hailing service to pick up and drop off patrons. For those who do take advantage of that option, there’s an exclusive tailgate zone complete with tents, coolers stocked with meat and beverages and grills waiting to be fired up.

MIAMI DOLPHINS, PL ANT FOOD + WINE, MIAMI, THE WEBSTER

WINE & DINE Plant Food & Wine Keep things extra healthy at this cutting-edge, plant-based eatery tucked inside The Sacred Space Miami, ground zero for the city’s clean living movement. Situated in the Wynwood Arts District, it’s upscale but with a casual vibe. thesacred spacemiami.com

Artisan Beach House Located inside the RitzCarlton Bal Harbour, the restaurant offers globally inspired breakfast, lunch and dinner and has become one of South Florida’s hottest dining spots. artisanbeach house.com

Pubbelly Sushi From Miami’s most prolific restaurant group, this impossibly cool sushi emporium—where Asian traditions are blended with Caribbean flair— boasts some of the freshest, most innovative dishes in town from inside the sparkling new Brickell City Centre. pubbellysushi .us

RETAIL THERAPY The Webster It’s the house that made Miami-chic a thing. With pieces from designers like Sonia Rykiel, Lanvin and Proenza Schouler, the three-story boutique occupies historic Art Deco hotel on South Beach. thewebster.us/ south-beach

Design District This neighborhood is home to some of the world’s most exclusive shopping, with recent openings that include Christian Louboutin, Isabel Marant and Van Cleef & Arpels. miamidesign district.net

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At the Nine, a high-style bar; luxe stadium seating; and cheerleaders on the field

Brickell City Centre This multi-block downtown complex is a shopping emporium, dining destination and entertainment hub— all in one. Anchored by a larger-than-life Saks Fifth Avenue, recent debuts include Chopard jewelry, Bruno Magli footwear and Apple. A luxury dine-in movie theater and three-story Italian food hall joined the line-up this year, too. brickellcitycentre .com

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EVERBANK FIELD

Perched on the banks of the St. Johns River, Jacksonville’s EverBank Field has undergone a $170 million transformation over the last five years, driven by Shahid Khan, the selfmade billionaire who owns the Jaguars. In partnership with the city of Jacksonville, the Jaguars revamped the stadium’s club seats, installed what were then the league’s largest video boards, and built a 5,000-seat amphitheater, Daily’s Place. Of all the changes, none is more uniquely Florida than the two spa pools and 16 cabanas located in the stadium’s upper deck. Finally, bikini-clad fans can stand in a crystal-clear pool, margarita in hand, and watch two teams duke it out. “When we

SLEEP & CHILL

JAX

One Ocean Resort & Spa Situated in the Omni Jacksonville Beaches Town Center, A favorite among east of Jax, this NFL fans, local contemporary seaside and opposing, this hotel offers thoughtful classic riverfront amenities—even an hotel in downtown unpacking service and Jacksonville is only a “Guest Historian” a short drive from who reaches out prior the stadium and to arrival to ask what walking distance to snacks and drinks some of the city’s visitors would like best restaurants and on hand. Locals love iconic music venues, the spa and dining at such as the Florida restaurant Azure. Theatre. oneocean Omnihotels.com resort.com

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Ponte Vedra Inn & Club This oceanfront resort in quaint Ponte Vedra Beach evokes a sense of nostalgia with striped awnings, its signature seahorse fountain and a classic beach-club vibe. Open for nearly 90 years, the resort’s grounds stretch across 300 acres with golf, tennis, gourmet fare and a fabulous spa. pontevedra.com

WINE & DINE Intuition Ale Works At this downtown craft brewery, which has inspired a cult following, there’s a 20-tap bar on the first floor and 20 more taps at the rooftop beer garden. The food menu, created by the local Black Sheep Restaurant, offers a special menu on game days, including Southern classics like pimento cheese and po’boys. intuitionaleworks .com

Town Hall Helmed by two-time James Beard nominee Tom Gray, this recently opened gem, located in San Marco Square, uses fresh seasonal ingredients and highlights collaborations with area farmers and artisan purveyors. townhalljax.com

JACKSONVILLE JAGUARS, ALINE LOPEZ ART & DESIGN

JAC KS O N V I LLE JAG UAR S

installed them a few years ago, we got a lot of flak. But, they’ve been sold out for every game since then,” said David Altman, the Jaguars’ senior manager of suites. Longtime Jags fan John DeRemer may not be taking a dip in those waters, but his experience at the game is HOW THE STADIUMS special nonetheless. His seats are in STACK UP: the US Assure Club. Renovated just EVERBANK last year, the complex offers fans a FIELD choice between refined, country-club Jacksonville style accommodations and a rowdier Opened in 1995 space with a sports bar vibe. Both Capacity of more parts of the club boast a culinary than 67,000 spread that comprises everything 88 luxury suites from Peterbrooke chocolates and Intuition Ale Works craft beer to 362-foot-wide HD LED video gourmet versions of game day faves board such as pizza, burgers and hot dogs. Yet it’s the energy and enthusiasm from fellow fans that really make game-day special, DeRemer said. “I’ve been to a lot of

JACKSONVILLE JAGUARS, T WO ONE FOUR BOUTIQUE

RETAIL THERAPY

Restaurant Doro A tiny, chef-driven, New American treasure in Neptune Beach, just east of Jax, the restaurant features only a dozen or so tables in an impeccable beach-chic dining room. The menu runs the gamut from land to sea and changes frequently based on the season. restaurantdoro.com

Beau Outfitters Named for the Southern term of endearment, used here to describe a gent passionate about the outdoors— and one who cleans up well, too—this men’s boutique located in the San Marco shops strikes a perfect balance between rugged and refined syle. beauoutfitters .com

Two One Four This indie boutique in Jax Beach is curated by Rachel Lazzara, who’s dedicated to bringing serious style and global designers like Sachin & Babi, Vivian Chan and Hemant & Nandita to the River City.

Blend Indoor Outdoor This locally owned home decor store in the Avondale neighborhood aims to help shoppers stylishly blend indoor and outdoor spaces with a mix of modern and traditional accessories and furniture. blendindoorout door.com

away games and seen a lot of other stadiums, and I think Jacksonville is very unique. In many ways, we fly under the radar, and people dismiss us as a football town,” he said. “But the passion for the Jaguars is very, very high!” One of his favorite features of the stadium is the club’s expansive walk-out patio at the 50-yard line. “There’s nothing like standing there and watching the field,” he said. As Jaguars players and fans prepare for the 2017 season with high hopes for a change in their fortunes, the team’s management is planning to roll out even more amenities, including the remodeled Fields Auto Group Terrace Suite, a 21,000-square-foot luxury club above the south end zone, appointed with extra-wide seats, air-conditioned dining areas and lounges, and panoramic views of the field and amphitheater. “We want you to drive here, park and not have to work one bit to have all the nuanced, warm comforts of home,” This page, clockwise said Altman. from top left: The view from the US Assure The Jags’ ambitious Club; Jags players set plans for their stadium to play; fans enjoying the cabana pool; are just a small part of (below) Daily’s Place Amphitheater their owner’s broader effort to revitalize Jacksonville’s downtown. Khan has become the city’s biggest fan. The tycoon’s proposal to develop the vacant riverfront shipyards located near the stadium was recently approved by Jacksonville’s Downtown Investment Authority. If you find your way to the city for a game, you’ll get a glimpse of the building of Florida’s next great metropolis.

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TAM PA BAY B U C CAN E E R S RAYMOND JAMES STADIUM

It was, to say the least, a happy surprise. In May 2016, after competing against New Orleans, Atlanta, Miami and Los Angeles for the honor of hosting the Super Bowl in 2019–21, the Tampa Bay Buccaneers learned they had not been selected. The NFL announced that Atlanta, Miami, and Los Angeles would be the sites of the Super Bowl in 2019, 2020 and 2021, respectively. “It was disappointing, of course, but we also knew it wasn’t a matter of if but when we would get it. We just had to wait it out,” said Brian Ford, the Bucs’ chief operating officer. Ford could not have imagined just how quickly that wait would end. One year after the initial announcement, the NFL unanimously voted to move Super Bowl 55 from Los Angeles to Tampa. Cigar City’s Raymond James Stadium was back in the game. Before it’s official, the NFL will have to confirm the This page above: decision, but Ford remains confident: Fans enjoy drinks “We don’t think there’s a better in the suites. destination [for the Super Bowl] than Opposite from left: The view our city and our stadium.” from the suites at It’s not as bold a claim as it might Raymond James stadium; gourmet seem. Since 2014, Ford has overseen goodies in the a $150 million stadium makeover, the suites; game time venue’s first renovation since its 1998 debut. The changes include everything

from reimagined concession stands to high-definition video boards and lavish suites. The Bucs’ management team was guided by a focus on making “the game day experience better for everyone, from the person HOW THE STADIUMS sitting in the upper deck to the one STACK UP: in the luxury suite or the end zone. RAYMOND We asked ourselves, ‘What can we JAMES do to make this better for as many STADIUM people as possible?’” said Ford. Tampa The improvements have been Built in 1998 praised by loyal fans like Wendy Capacity up to Capelin, a retired pediatric nurse 65,890 and self-described Giants fan 195 executive from birth, who transferred her suites loyalties shortly after moving 103-foot pirate to the area in 2007. One of the ship, Buccaneer first in the door on game day, Cove Capelin says she’s a true football fan, “not one of those people on their phone during a play, more worried about the beer and the socializing.” When she heard about the new Hall of Fame Club, she bought the tickets, and, “when I sat

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TAMPA

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SLEEP & CHILL

Le Méridien Tampa’s historic but vacant federal courthouse, a Beaux-Arts beauty built in 1905, was transformed three years ago into this charming boutique hotel, a Four Diamond accommodation in the city’s up-and-coming downtown core. lemeridientampa.com

Epicurean Foodfocused and located in the heart of the historic Hyde Park district, the hotel offers a state-of-theart culinary classroom, one of the city’s most popular rooftop bars, a fine wine shop and a chocolate patisserie, in addition to a spa and urban-chic rooms. epicureanhotel.com

Opal Sands Resort After its spring debut, this $50 million, 15-story resort, with its stunning modernist curved exterior, became the newest luxury offering in nearby Clearwater Beach. Take in the panoramic Gulf views or get pampered at the spa. opalsands.com

TAMPA BAY BUCCANEERS, OPAL SANDS RESORTS, AMY PREZZICAR A /BERN’S STEAKHOUSE, PENELOPE T

WINE & DINE

Bern’s Steak House As storied as it gets in Florida, Bern’s, a more than 60-yearold legend in SoHo, offers world-class everything, from perfectly aged steaks to a spectacular wine list and a famously decadent dessert room. bernssteakhouse .com

Fodder & Shine One of the area’s most celebrated chefs, Greg Baker serves up a sophisticated culinary nod to Florida’s old cracker culture with his newcomer in the Seminole Heights area. fodderandshine .com

American Social Located on Tampa’s Harbour Island, with 443 seats, four full bars, two four-tap private booths for self-serve beer and a full raw bar, this fast-growing Florida gastropub group is a perfect pick for pre- or postgame festivities. americansocialbar .com

there for the first game, it was like being on the field—it was phenomenal! The sound system and the video are so good. I can hear everything they’re saying and I can actually see the hand signals,” she said. As present as she is for the action on the field, she finds the amenities inside the club just as alluring. “When I am there, I feel like I’m at the Four Seasons of football. Like I’ve arrived and this is exactly where I need to be for the next five hours.” The redesigned West Stadium Club debuts this season. After expanding to 60,000 square feet, the club will have room for new premium bars, dining options and a team shop with exclusive Buccaneers merchandise. A cadre of concierges will roam the area, ensuring patrons’ game-day desires are fulfilled. Almost any, that is. “As much as we’d like to control what happens on the field, we can’t,” Ford admits. But, he adds, “We know our guests’ good time can’t be dependent on a win. We want to make sure that whatever happens, we exceed your expectations, that the experience is fun, memorable and second-to-none.”

RETAIL THERAPY

Penelope T Catering to women with global mindsets, this South Tampa shop features indie designers and edgy, modern finds. Its two founders, friends who studied and worked in fashion in New York, also own a second boutique in Jacksonville Beach. penelopetboutique .com

Hyde Park Village This open-air mall features an enticing mix of national and local stores, plus a heavy emphasis on dining and entertainment. Highlights include one of the country’s top-performing Sur La Table stores and a recently debuted Kendra Scott boutique. Don’t miss local gems like chic men’s boutique London Philips and recent Miami-transplant Boho Hunter. hydeparkvillage .com

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Upland Scrub

Nestled in the heart of Okeechobee county, one of Floridaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wildest territories, a proper sporting club curates the ultimate experience in wingshooting and beyond. By MICHAEL ADNO

light refracts all around, covering the palmettos, pines and far-off hammocks in hues of pink and purple. The sky begins to bleed into one warm color after another, slowly dissolving into blue as stars spill into view. Here at Pine Creek, a private sporting club in central Florida, John Reynolds, a founding member, walks slowly along the meandering cuts between palmetto bunches with a few friends, a dog and the club’s head dog trainer, Bill Thacker. “You kind of get lost out there,” Reynolds says of quail hunting at the club. “You’re walking with friends for a couple of hours, talking—out in the middle of nature.” Soon enough, the dog starts to point. A covey of quail rises in a flush, and the hunters take their shots. The dog retrieves the fallen birds, and then it’s onto the next burst of fowl, your “next walk,” as Reynolds puts it. “I just love to watch the dogs work. That’s definitely my first love.” Later, pushing down a two-track somewhere within the 1,000 acres of serpentine trails moving through the scrub of Pine Creek, we look off into an expanse of palmetto bunches punctuated by pines stretching upward as far

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as I can see in any direction. Pat Worsham, the club’s general manager, calls this field the Holy Land. It got its name because it’s such a productive field for quail, but it’s also just downhome Florida. The coveys of pen-raised quail in these fields average 40 birds, and feral hogs—a hangover from Spanish settlers—find refuge here, moving through the area during the wetter, summer months, allowing members to hunt them from shoot houses, on foot and even with bows. Apart from the rumbling of the side-byside buggy, there’s nothing artificial to be heard. When Worsham cuts the engine, the whirring of cicadas rises with the surging temperature of this balmy morning in July. Their incessant staccato reverberates around the scrub as if it were an amphitheater, and it’s easy to see why people find the place enchanting. Hell, with the slow creep of suburban sprawl across the state, places like Pine Creek have become increasingly rare and, in contrast, feel almost magical. Pine Creek lies just a few clicks north of Okeechobee, an old farming town nestled between the coasts that sits just at the northern rim of Lake Okeechobee. The name, Okeechobee,

This page: Quail

rise and hunters take their shots at Pine Creek, a private club north of Okeechobee. Opposite: Inside the clubhouse, largescale Clyde Butcher prints and game trophies adorn the walls.

COURTESY OF PINE CREEK

As the sun sinks,

“Early on, we recognized this would be family driven.” — John Reynolds comes from two Hitchiti words, “oki” (water) and “chubi” (big). Because of the etymology, or because of our Southern propensity to abbreviate, the locals call it “Chobee,” even fusing the two syllables into one in most cases. Pine Creek was founded in 2007 by the developers Stephen E. Myers and his son Stephen Jr., the venerated golfers Jack Nicklaus and Nick Price, the former NFL player Tucker Frederickson, and John Reynolds as a private wing-shooting club. As Reynolds explained to me, Myers—who founded the U.S. Cable Group in 1975 and formed one of the largest private cable providers in the U.S.—owned a 5,000-acre ranch in the area long before inklings of Pine Creek cropped up. Throughout his first 10 years with the property, Myers started to notice how much people enjoyed it, and he thought, “This is interesting. Everybody loves coming up here, but who can afford it?” When his land broker told him that the 2,400-acre property that belonged to the Rollins family, substantial landowners in the state, had come onto the market, his idea took shape. Since the property had been a private quail plantation for 50 years, then Coca-Cola’s corporate retreat, “there wasn’t much to do to make it premier,” Reynolds said. “The whole genesis of Pine Creek was to make a place that like-minded families would come to and share the cost of.”

What really energized the founding members was that nothing like this existed in South Florida. There were no other high-end, exclusive outdoors clubs like this one, even with the dense concentration of wealth in South Florida. More importantly, the developers recognized the need for families to be able to escape the hive-like hustle of Florida’s big cities. So, they took to the ground, visiting clubs all across the East Coast, building up their plan piece by piece. When they came up with a model for the club, the focus was on upland game birds, or non-water fowl: quail, pheasant, and dove. While some quails are native to Florida and pheasants are not, both species are present across the state. To acquire the birds, the club works with different farms, one in south Miami and another in Wisconsin. In a season, from November until March, they’ll run through 50,000 quail. At each of the season’s six tower shoots, organized by the club, 1,200 pheasants are released over the course of the day. The emphasis on quality at Pine Creek is evident

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“ I get just as excited today watching people—knees knocking, shaking, living for that moment—as I did with my first client. That’s the rewarding part as a guide.” — Lewis Clanton

PINE CREEK SPORTING CLUB

This page: The 2,400-

acre tract that the club occupies was a cattle ranch at one point.

Opposite: Throughout the year, guests can move from one hunt to another, from quail and deer to wild boar and Osceola turkey.

in the staff, recruited from the best sporting clubs and hospitality locales; in the facilities, which not only look sharp but set a bar for clubs all across the East Coast; and in the sheer number of amenities. The youth and equestrian programs coupled with a variety of outdoor experiences highlight Pine Creek’s focus on cultivating a family atmosphere. “That’s what makes up the lifestyle here,” Reynolds says. “It’s kind of like getting the family together, as they did in the simpler times that people have lost touch with.” The 2,400-acre tract that the sporting club occupies was also a cattle ranch at one point, and it still bears about 100 head, which roam the property freely today. In order to be a member of Pine Creek, you have to own a home there, which can cost anywhere from $190,000 for a tenant share to $5 million for a ranch. The club is made up of 67 home sites in total: 43 cabins and 24 ranches. At its outset, the developers divided the property in half, allocating one portion to ranch homes set on 40-plus acres, two outcrops of cabins, a central clubhouse, and the necessary infrastructure—shoot houses, clay courses, target ranges, kennels, stables, and staff housing. The other half was devoted to plentiful hunting and fishing areas named after Pine Creek’s bird dogs, including Abby, Bella and Range. Countless ponds strewn across the property yield ten-pound bass, impressive specks, and shellcrackers. When I arrive during the off-season in July, I pull into a parking spot underneath the shade of a live oak as Worsham, clad in technical garb apt for the at-times punishing sun, rides up to greet me with a soft, warm welcome. With his clean-cut yet not overly coiffed style, he could be anything from a guide to a homeowner—bridging the gap

in sneakers and sunglasses. He rushes off to take care of something and leaves me to take in the scene on the front porch of the clubhouse, an unfinished cypress-sided building. I take a seat in a wicker-weaved rocking chair and look out into the hammock of live oaks draped in ferns and epiphytes. Shortly after I slip off into some half-conscious state, Worsham returns, a big grin on his face, and we set off to see the property. Before noon, I see spoonbills, ibises, and blackbellied whistling ducks. Recently, guides spotted a panther making its way across the property, a promising sight north of the Caloosahatchee. With his two decades of experience managing

different hotels and clubs, Worsham was a sought-after addition to the place when he was recruited in 2012. He was born in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, where his father managed the Greenbrier Resort, but he was raised in Boca Raton when it was still a quiet, old-Florida locale. “I just grew up in it,” he says of his career path. When Greenbrier started to acquire different outdoors clubs, Worsham followed suit. “I love the hospitality business and the outdoors, so the sporting club is the best of both worlds,” he

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explains. You can find his name tied to countless sporting clubs across the Caribbean and the Southeast. Chris Amen, a member of Pine Creek for five years running, says Worsham brings a “real professionalism” to Pine Creek—one he hadn’t seen elsewhere. But more importantly, Amen notes, “He personalizes the experience.” It took Worsham a while to understand what worked when it came to structuring a club, what drew members back, and what members ultimately took away with them. For Amen, who visits during holidays and long weekends, making the trip down from Connecticut, the spectrum of the experiences you can have at Pine Creek lure him back each year. As Reynolds says, though, “Early on, we recognized that this would be family driven.” Amen echoes that, emphasizing that Pine Creek is not solely a wing-shooting

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club, but rather a place that’s welcoming to all ages—to families— as well as those who Left: Guide Lewis would like a more Clanton with his dog Grizz private experience. “The beauty of Pine Creek is you don’t have to travel anywhere. You’re there,” says Amen. Okeechobee is the ideal location for this type of club, as the weather and land lend themselves to a life spent outdoors. “For the sportsman, it’s a paradise,” Amen says. Throughout the entire year, you can move from one hunt to another: alligators to deer, bass to hogs, ducks to quail— depending on the season and conditions. Each time, Amen and his guests are taken aback by the wealth of options, the quality of the grounds and Above: At Pine Creek,

the focus is upland game birds, like the pheasant pictured, quail and dove.

a skill—shooting the shotgun. It’s like fly-fishing: laying that fly right where it needs to be. It’s finesse.” Out toward a remote corner of Pine Creek’s property, near a 100-acre parcel that’s wired for stalking hogs on foot, we spot a bobcat’s tracks. The guide, the dog, and the long periods of silence mingling with the hum of palm fronds create something like a spell. The dog points. The shotgun closes. The covey flushes, soaring up into the troposphere in hues of ocher and amber. Their wings extend in arcs, and the hunter takes aim. A shot rings out as the shells fall back towards the earth. A bird may fall, but hunters soon turn their attention to the next bend in the trail or bundle of palmettos that might hold game. Regardless of their success, they’re enveloped, under the spell of the hunt.

Above: The name

Okeechobee comes from two Hitchiti words: “oki” (water) and “chubi” (big).

Below: In a season,

the members will run through 50,000 quail.

PINE CREEK SPORTING CLUB, ISTOCK , LEWIS CL ANTON

the passion that the guides exude. “Their love for what they do comes through, but they also balance that against what’s best for the members—not just [the mindset of] ‘let me get through the day, and don’t shoot my dog,’” he says. For more than 29 years, Lewis Clanton has been a firefighter based in Fort Pierce, just 20 miles east of Pine Creek. On his days off, Clanton hunts, fishes and guides. He’s worked with Pine Creek and guided its members on and off the property for years. His Labrador, Grizz, has garnered a kind of celebrity status. If you mention Clanton, you undoubtedly hear praise for his dog. Whether the topic is bass on the lake, alligators well past midnight, or a tower shoot at Pine Creek, Clanton lights up at the chance to talk story. “I get just as excited today watching people—knees knocking, shaking, living for that moment—as I did with my first client. That’s the rewarding part as a guide,” he says. As to the kind of clientele that Pine Creek attracts, Clanton says, “Wing-shooters tend to look at things differently. They might not want to kill a ten-point buck. It’s more of an art—more of

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[ — sunshine state stor ies —

MY FLORIDA B y Prissy Elrod

Above from left: Elrod’s father holds his catch; Elrod lounges with her late husband Boone and her father during her honeymoon; fishing on the Suwannee

Once Upon a Suwannee Night

to sire boys. But, as luck had it, he got three little girls. He tried to make the best of it, he really did. On many a Friday afternoon— when he didn’t have to be on call—he’d pile us in his car for the hour-and-a-half drive to his river cabin. My mother shunned his man-cave, and the river. She seldom, well... never came along with us. In her defense, she couldn’t swim a lick, and the black water would scare the fearless. On the drive from Lake City we’d stop in Old Town, Florida, for supplies: Cokes, bread, peanut butter, Vienna sausages, lima

[

here are some memories so vivid they remain etched in your being forever. The Suwannee River is mine. Or, rather, a cabin that sat on the mouth of the river. As a Southerner, I grew up fishing from the banks of that river. I use the term “fishing” lightly. Mostly, I would lie on the boat floor in a Dramamine stupor among earthworms, fishhooks, and rolling beer cans. I would do just about anything to spend time with my daddy, a small-town doctor in Lake City, Florida. That poor man deserved

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beans, shrimp, worms, tackle, gear, and Schlitz beer. The owners of the Bait and Tackle were happy to see us, I suspect for two reasons. First, daddy was their doctor, and, second, he gave us liberty to buy anything we wanted. And we did. He would buy us new cane fishing poles. The ones we’d used on previous visits were too tangled for his patience, time and temperament. I won’t talk about his rods and reels. Our greedy selves would pull as much junk off the reachable shelves as our hands could

COURTESY OF PRISSY ELROD

A Tallahassee novelist learns that a forgotten photo, which captured a poignant time, is worth more than a thousand words.

hold and pile it on top of the counter. Daddy never made us put any of it back. He’d just hand them $100. One big bill. “Keep the change,” he always said. “Thanks so much, Dr. Landrum,” the couple said in unison, smiling big. He didn’t care about Red Dye No. 2, additives or sugar. It was long before somebody named sugar the culprit of everything wrong with everyone everywhere. We left that bait shop giggling, carrying our bags. We’d pile back into his car, seatbelt-free. He would bend his tall, lanky body, maneuver into the driver’s seat, crank the ignition, light his cigarette, tell us to sit back, and pull back onto the highway. The hot summer breeze slapped our faces as we sped on with all the windows rolled down. I would chomp my mouthful of candy, yelling between chews, “How far, daddy?” “Don’t ask me that again, Prissy!” And I wouldn’t. Until I would. Finally, we would arrive, scrambling from inside the smoke-laced car, racing toward the two-bedroom cabin. Daddy unlocked the door, and the second it swung open, a lingering scent of stale cigarettes blasted our inhaling lungs. The cabin was built smack dab on the mouth of the river. A cypress dock, two steps down from the door, ran to the river’s edge. There were no railings between us and the coffee-colored water below. Inside, there was one tiny air-conditioner for the whole cabin, encased in daddy’s bedroom window. He’d turn the thermostat igloo-cold and keep his bedroom door shut, awaiting his nightly slumber. Our room was hot, humid and smelled like mildew. I would sneak into his room, drag a chair over and plant my snotty nose against the A/C blower, one eye fixed on the doorknob. I watched for the turning of that knob, too hot to care about disobeying any of his rules.

“Get down, Prissy, I told you to stay out of here!” He would find me every single time. The dock attracted me. I would go out there and lie on my stomach with my chest hanging over the water. I’d reach, struggling

their 20 toes dangling above my green face. Every tug on their poles from a hungry fish would warrant their squeals. I would try to open my eyes and see life above the boat’s floor, but my lids were too heavy. I would fall back to sleep again. After five hours on the boat, despite layers of Sea & Ski, we sizzled to a salmon color. , By the end of the weekend, we were caramel. We spent our entire childhoods, into our twenties, even thirties, enjoying that cabin. I even shortened my two-week honeymoon at The Cloister hotel in Sea Island, Georgia, offering my husband to snare a catfish with my bare hands. There the chance to spend the second week at our was no life jacket or adult in sight. I’m weak cabin, fishing. We joined my dad and Gina. in the knees tapping that memory. Boone, my brand-new husband, thought I loved every square foot of the worn, I walked on water after that. overused, under-decorated haven. The But this is where my story takes a paraphernalia inside the cabin was masculine, twist and becomes more than a childhood filled with fishing rods, poles, playing cards, memory. Recently, we were invited to poker chips, and pictures of dogs sitting at a poker table smoking cigarettes. Below: Elrod posing in the yellow bikini she What with my seasickness, I was a bit of a wore on her honeymoon pain in the ass. When they all went fishing, I was too young to be left alone in the cabin. Consequently, I was dragged along with the rest of them. Hence, Dramamine. The hot Florida sun beamed UVA rays on my virgin skin while I inhaled the mingled scent of the bait fish, shrimp, and Oscar Meyer bologna in the cooler, the one stained with fish gizzard blood. The boat idled as the wild, unspoiled current gently pulled us along, daddy steering with one hand and casting his pole with the other; a Salem cigarette—which ultimately killed him—hung loosely from his lips. Deborah, my older sis ter, and Gina, my younger, were luckier than me. I lay curled beneath them in a fetal position as they perched above on the boat’s bench seats. They enjoyed whiffs of breeze, threading worms on brand-new poles,

Finally we would arrive scrambling from inside the smoke-laced car, racing toward the two-bedroom cabin.

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MY FLORIDA

sunshine state stor ies

a private viewing of the 89th Academy Awards given by the College of Motion Picture Arts at Florida State University. It was a celebration for alumnus Barry Jenkins, honoring his movie Moonlight, which had received eight Oscar nominations. We were late to the event. The lights were dim. Everyone was seated in black chairs at black-draped tables, wearing mostly black. The only light in the room came from the gargantuan television hanging in the front of the room. It was muted as celebrities strutted the red carpet in fantabulous gowns, wearing gems and grins. I tried not to trip in the dark as I spotted a sofa and a few chairs. We tiptoed over and claimed two seats on the sofa. I knew nobody as I looked around...table to table, stranger to stranger, half-listening to the speaker at the podium. I sent Dale, my second husband, off for wine and pretended to be looking for something in my purse.

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A man walked in front of me and blocked my view as I gazed at the screen. He looked familiar. I realized he was the man I had sleuthed on Facebook earlier in the day. Well, not him, per se. I had wanted to see if I knew the event’s co-host, so I’d entered his name into the search bar. The man sat down on the other end of the couch. I watched him laugh at something the speaker said that wasn’t funny. After a few minutes, I slid over toward him, then next to him. “Hi, I’m Prissy Elrod. I just wanted to thank you for inviting us.” I stuck my hand out for a shake. He smiled as he shook, with—I could tell—no idea who I was. Then I did what I do when I visit the Florida State campus: name drop. I know. Shameful. “I was Prissy Kuersteiner before,” I said, beaming like he cared. I mentioned my previous last name so I could throw out

my first late father-in-law, Dr. Karl Otto Kuersteiner. He was Dean of the School of Music and had a building on campus named after him. Mr. Facebook smiled. “Wait, you’re Prissy Kuersteiner. That’s you? Are you kidding me! My gosh, I’ve been talking about you for years.” My heart skipped a beat. It’s not like I had a criminal record or something. What in the world was he saying about me, and wait...did he say years? I needed a glass of wine from my absent husband. Where was he? The man kept talking and sharing. “You and I worked together years ago.” He had me mixed up. I didn’t even know this man. Well, except on Facebook. “You had a picture on your desk. You were wearing this orange and yellow bikini.” He laughed through his sentence. I almost choked on my saliva. I mean, seriously, who has a picture of themselves

COURTESY OF PRISSY ELROD

Above: The Suwannee River cabin where Elrod spent summer weekends fishing with her dad and sisters

in a bathing suit on their work desk? “I don’t think that was me. You must have me mixed up with someone else.” “Prissy, you haven’t changed that much. I think it was a family shot. You were standing between two men and holding this fish. There were a few who would go in your office when you were gone, look at you in that bikini. I probably shouldn’t tell you that, right?” He started laughing more. I saw my husband walking toward me—way too slowly—balancing two glasses of wine. “Hurry up!” I hollered crassly. Facebook man continued. “One day I was standing over your desk, and you were typing. I lifted the picture to wipe a smear off the glass but it wouldn’t come off. I asked you about that smear and you know what you said?” “No, what did I say?” I still had no idea who this man was talking about, but I remained polite. “I’m quoting you...They’re lip marks from kisses. And you didn’t crack a smile, never even looked up at me, just kept typing. I’ve been telling that story for twenty years, just ask my wife, Winnie.” Finally, my wine and husband arrived and Mr. Facebook retold the whole story...again. It would take two glasses of wine—mine and Dale’s—before I remembered the picture he described. It came from deep within the crevices of my brain. It was taken during the honeymoon of my first marriage, after we vacated that spectacular five-star luxury hotel for the week at the cabin. I wore my honeymoon bikini while standing between the two men I loved most in the world. Both no longer living, gone from my life. My father lost to those nasty menthols; my husband snatched by a fatal brain tumor. When you lose a person you love, there’s a deep yearning to see them again—if only for a moment. Standing in front of Mr. Facebook, in one of those brief moments, I had a mental reel as real as my own life. I could see my late husband and father standing next to me, alive. I felt the summer breeze and smelled daddy’s Salem cigarette. I was standing on that cypress dock once again, surrounded by gear, grit and gratitude. There are no words to describe such a gift. It was a night of twofold winnings. Moonlight won three Oscars. But I was the big winner. When Mr. Facebook happened upon me that night, I had a God wink. You don’t need a trophy for that.

Prissy Elrod is a professional speaker, artist, humorist and the author of Far Outside the Ordinary. She was born and raised in Lake City, Florida, and now lives in Tallahassee with her husband, Dale. She divides her time between writing, painting and chasing her tail. Chasing Ordinary, the sequel to Far Outside the Ordinary, will be released in early 2018.

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[ — Fin e arts, favor ites, f lings —

ON THE FLY — PLUME —

E r n e s t H e m i n g w a y ’s g r a n d s o n t e l l s h i s o w n t a l e

— THE STUDIO —

A n a r t i s t p a i n t s n e w l i f e i n t o N o r t h F l o r i d a ’s a r t s c e n e

— FLORIDA WILD —

C a r l t o n Wa r d J r. c h r o n i c l e s t h e s t a t e ’s n a t u r a l m a j e s t y

— GROVE STAND —

Bringing a taste of Italia to St. Petersburg

— BIRD’S-EYE VIEW —

Strolling the streets of St. Petersburg

— THE ROOST —

L i v i n g i t u p a t F l o r i d a ’s f i n e s t h o t e l s

— THE TIDE —

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LIBBY VOLGYES

[

Events worth crisscrossing the state for

The Season Starts With

MIAMI BOOK FAIR

AN EVENING WITH TREVOR NOAH, 2016

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ON THE FLY:PLUME B y N a n cy K l i n g en er

Above:

John Hemingway inside the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum in Key West

CAROL TEDESCO

A WAY with J Words John Hemingway, author and grandson of Ernest, on writing, rum and returning to his childhood home in South Florida

ohn Hemingway has lived most of his adult life in Europe and, more recently, Canada, but he’s no stranger to Florida. He lived in Miami until his second year of high school. And lately he’s found himself returning to Key West, where his own father spent part of his childhood and where his famous grandfather is still an island icon more than 50 years after his death. “A lot of my work has been based around childhood memories, things that I know about Miami,” says the

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writer and translator, who was recently in his grandfather’s work, the posthumously “Sometimes things just don’t finish well and Key West for the opening of the Hemingway published The Garden of Eden, and many there’s no turning back. That was the case, Rum Company’s new distillery and the Key of Ernest Hemingway’s letters, John came I think, for both Ernest Hemingway and his West Mystery Fest, a writing conference. to realize that father and son shared more son, Gregory. They were brave men. They “Every time I go down had the guts to go there, even there, either to Miami or if they didn’t know how it Key West, you get out of was going to end.” the airplane and the air In Key West, where hits you, and the memories crowds line up to tour the flood you,” he says. “There’s old family home and “Papa” the heat. The climate. The Hemingway’s image looms flatness of it all.” over his old haunt at Sloppy John is the author of Joe’s, John is a low-key Strange Tribe: A Family presence. He’s spoken several Memoir. The book, times in recent years at the published in 2007, is an Key West Art & Historical account of the author’s Society. This spring, at the time with his grandfather, Hemingway Rum Company Ernest, and his father, distillery opening, he praised Gregory Hemingway. the new Papa’s Pilar rum Gregory, Ernest’s youngest for its affordable price (the son, was a doctor who dark rum is $40 a bottle, struggled with manic the blonde is $30) and depression. A lifelong announced that the family’s cross-dresser, he had sex portion of the proceeds is reassignment surgery near going to two conservationthe end of his life and died related nonprofits, the of a heart attack in a Miami International Game Fish women’s prison in 2001. Association and The Ocean “I always thought my Foundation. dad had sort of received a That’s “very much in line kind of bum deal in terms with the kind of philosophy of the way his death had that Ernest Hemingway had,” been treated and the way John says. “He was someone a lot of people thought who loved nature, but also about him while he was tried his best to understand alive,” John says. “And how it—understand the creatures people weren’t equipped that lived there, in the ocean to separate Gregory and the wild, and understand Above: Ernest Hemingway, with his three sons and wife, Pauline, on a dock near his home in Key West. Hemingway, the man and the need for balance.” the woman he had become, After his memoir, John from his father, Ernest Hemingway [and the than just DNA. Both were interested in turned to writing fiction. His story “Nacho Ernest Hemingway mythos], the war hero, gender-bending or, as John puts it, “the union y Lucrezia” is part of the anthology Murder great lover, macho guy and hunter, which is between man and woman. Neither of them in Key West 3. He’s currently working on a all true, to some extent.” ever really found it, although they did go book of short stories. He hopes to have them But after reading scholarly research on out on that limb like true travelers,” he says. finished this year.

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HEMINGWAY RUM COMPANY

ON THE FLY:PLUME

From our many parks and natural areas, to historic homes and vibrant downtowns, you can explore everything from unique wildlife to exciting nightlife. So, grab your family and friends and start exploring West Volusia County. Conveniently located between Daytona Beach and Orlando.

Download our Visitors Guide at VisitWestVolusia.com | 1-800-749-4350 | #GetAwayAndPlay

ON THE FLY:THE STUDIO FLOR IDA ARTIST PR OF ILES By Nila Simon

IN CERTAIN CIRCLES Artist Dustin Harewood shapes his own eclectic course with Japanese-inspired works that challenge accepted norms.

ow do you change an entire city’s perspective of art? If you’re Dustin Harewood, you use spray paint, acrylic and resin. The Jacksonville artist and educator is part of an emerging group of contemporary artists pushing boundaries with abstract and visually intricate compositions. In a city where watercolor beach scenes take on the role of Goliath, it’s Harewood and his colleagues who are making a David out of rawer, more esoteric works of art. “It’s a pretty exciting time to be an artist in Jacksonville,” says Harewood,

who also teaches design and painting at Florida State College at Jacksonville. “You can feel the energy being lifted here.” Born in Brooklyn to Barbadian parents, Harewood was exposed to art at an early age. His parents frequently took him and his sister to the nearby Brooklyn Museum, where he began attending Saturday morning art classes at the age of 7. After the family moved back to Barbados when Harewood was in high school, he began delving deeper into his art, finding influence in the work of legendary Barbadian artist Ras Akyem Ramsay. Harewood went on to earn a master’s degree in painting and drawing at the University of North Carolina-

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Greensboro before settling in Florida, where he met his Japan-born wife, Yuki. His frequent travels from Japan to Barbados and back to the United States manifest themselves in his work. Pieces such as Coral Beauty 3, 2016, showcase a Japanese portrait against coral patterns seen in the Caribbean. His 36 Views of a Dying Coral Reef series,

DUSTIN HAREWOOD

Above from left: Small Reef and Desert Rose by Jacksonville-based artist Dustin Harewood

which illustrates his deep love of the ocean, was inspired by Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai’s series 36 Views of Mount Fuji. Thoughtful and introspective, 39-year-old Harewood says he pushes himself and his art every day, whether it’s by using a circular canvas rather than the traditional rectangular form, or working on large 3-D surfaces that project off the wall. “This is part of constantly reassessing what I do and why I do it,” says Harewood, who has shown at the Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens three times since 2011. “I think about why we always have to do pieces on a rectangular space. We as artists are supposed to be so profound and so forward-thinking, so why do things in such a traditional way? Whether it’s paper or wood, those mediums access the paint in a different way. So it changes your approach. It keeps me entertained and challenges me.” As a member of an unofficial core of creatives who are introducing innovative paintings, murals and street art at surprising venues—he recently showcased his work at APB, a men’s sneaker boutique in Jacksonville’s Five Points neighborhood— Harewood wants to present art that’s a departure from the safe and normal. In essence, he wants to rock the boat. “There’s still an underground feeling to what we’re doing, especially by not being in these bigmuscle galleries yet,” he says. “Even though I have shown at beautiful venues like the Cummer Museum, that little one-night sneaker shop exhibit is so much the core of what I do.” And it’s not just a subset of residents who are noticing the artist. In May, the Cultural Council of Greater Jacksonville honored Harewood for his educational endeavors at its 41st Annual Arts Awards, a recognition he still blushes about. “You don’t do this job to get awards,” says Harewood, who has been teaching at FSCJ since 2004. “Teaching is a privilege. The idea that I get to stand there and lead a class with all these talented minds, it’s a great privilege.” For Harewood, there’s never been a better time to be an independent artist in Jacksonville. “It’s not an oversaturated place, like New York or London, where you have tens of thousands of artists roaming the streets,” he Above from top: says. “You can still make an impact because Harewood’s there is so much potential and opportunity works on round canvasses and people who are hungry for what Americana and you’re offering.” Hungry Oni

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ON THE FLY: FLORIDA WILD P H OTOGR APHS & F IELD NOTES B y C a rl t o n Wa rd J r.

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WHISPERS

at Dawn L

ongleaf pine forests are among the Earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most biologically diverse habitats. Once covering 90 million acres of the southeastern United States, from Virginia to Texas, longleaf pine forests have been reduced by logging and development to just three percent of their historic range. Conservationists are working to restore longleaf forests and savannas for the benefit of people and wildlife. This photo shows a restoration site at The Nature Conservancyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Disney Wilderness Preserve, which is adjacent to the first parcel of Everglades Headwaters National Wildlife Refuge.

A few years ago, I was working on a story about the red-cockaded woodpecker, an endangered bird that depends on longleaf pines at least 60 years old to make nest cavities. Efforts to protect and restore old pines helped the woodpecker recover from the brink of extinction. To show the scope of the restored forest, I chose an aerial perspective. When the helicopter rose above the treetops, morning fog was still hanging low among the branches. As I aimed my camera east, the natural backlighting of the winter sunrise helped create the tapestry of light and shadows that adds a touch of wildness and mystery to this scene.

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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS

By Laur a R ei l ey • P h o t o g ra p h y b y L i b b y Vo l g y es

The Comeback Kid When David Benstock made his way back to his native Florida, he brought with him the skills to create a smart, contemporary Italian restaurant, Il Ritorno, now a standout in the St. Pete dining scene.

n a way, the restaurant’s name was a prediction, a harbinger of all the good things to come to St. Petersburg. David Benstock grew up in the Tampa Bay area, but when he fell in love with food and cooking, his hands were tied: There just wasn’t enough going on in his hometown. He had to move away, on a pilgrimage to major urban centers where the gastronomic scene was more dynamic. He hopped from the Ritz-Carlton in Beaver Creek, Colorado, to such celebrated New York City restaurants as The Modern, back when it boasted just one Michelin star. But in December 2013, the then-26year-old phenom debuted Il Ritorno— ”the return” in Italian. The young chef had returned home to open an edgy,

Above: David Benstock, 31, takes a rare moment to relax inside his restaurant, Il Ritorno. Right: Kabocha

squash risotto with Soppressata & Lobster

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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND Kabocha Squash Risotto with Soppressata & Lobster S e rv e s 4 1 whole kabocha squash 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed for sauteing 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes 1 1/2 cups Arborio rice 1/2 cup yellow onion, diced small 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 cup white wine 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup Parmesan cheese 1 1/2 tablespoons butter 7 cups chicken stock 2 6-ounce lobster tails 1/4 cup spicy soppressata, diced

intimate, high-end Italian restaurant. At This was not always the plan. Benstock that time, it was also St. Petersburg that studied business at Florida State University had bounced back. No longer was it a and was expected to go into the family sleepy snowbird town. Something was business, Superior Uniform Group, happening. The streets were newly dotted started by his great-grandfather. Based in with restaurants, bars and craft breweries, Seminole, the company, which provides and young folks were venturing uniforms to hospitals and fastout in search of sustenance and food chains around the world, IL RITORNO revelry. The launch of Il Ritorno has made it onto Forbes’ list of — LOCATION — marked a new chapter for St. top 100 small companies. But a 449 CENTRAL AVE. Pete. It began to compete ably high school job in the kitchen ST. PETERSBURG with Tampa, across the bay, of Villa Gallace in Indian Rocks — HOURS — MON—SAT, 5 P.M.—CLOSE for destination restaurants and Beach whet his appetite for CLOSED SUN culinary ambition. another career path. ilritornodowntown.com Today, Benstock is only 31, He left Florida State in favor and his wife Erica is just 29, of culinary school at Johnson & but, nearly four years in, their Wales University in Denver. restaurant is like an elder statesman, a “Dad was hesitant at first. I’m not going sophisticated veteran in the ever-changing to lie,” says Benstock. “He warmed up to sea of upstart eateries, bars and food it, and now he’s my biggest supporter.” businesses downtown. This past summer, Benstock has fond memories of his they annexed the space next door and hometown, like sneaking out of his doubled the size of their restaurant. And, kosher household on a skateboard to try in July, the staff of Il Ritorno headed to pepperoni pizza for the first time. And New York City for its first James Beard now that he’s returned, he has loads of House dinner. loyal fans. At the St. Pete Wine & Food

1 lemon 1/2 cup Brussels sprout leaves PREPARATION: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut squash in half and scoop out seeds. Place open side up on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, salt and chili flakes. Bake until squash is tender, about an hour. Scoop out flesh and puree in a food processor until smooth. Add chicken stock to a large stockpot and simmer. In a large saute pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Saute yellow onion and garlic until translucent. Add rice and salt and cook until toasted, about 1 minute. Add white wine and cook, stirring, until wine is absorbed. Add half a cup of hot chicken stock and stir constantly until absorbed. Repeat until rice has reached desired consistency. When finished, add squash puree, Parmesan, butter and salt. To prepare lobster, fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil. Poach tails for 5 minutes, then transfer to a bowl of ice water immediately. Once chilled, remove meat from shell and chop into half-inch pieces. Heat olive oil over medium heat in a saute pan until shimmering. Add soppressata and cook for 1 minute. Add lobster and cook for 1 minute. Transfer to a dish, squeeze lemon on top and garnish with Brussels sprout leaves.

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ON THE FLY: GROVE STAND SEASON’S EATINGS

Smoked Beets and Burrata S e rv e s 4

FOR BEETS:

2 pounds baby beets 2 sprigs rosemary 6 cloves garlic, crushed 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes 1 1/2 tablespoons salt 4 cups carrot juice 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons butter Freshly grated nutmeg 8 ounces burrata 1 cup arugula 1/2 cup hazelnuts Olive oil for drizzling PREPARATION: Marinate the beets in the rosemary, crushed garlic, red wine vinegar, chili flakes and salt for one hour. Smoke them in a smoker until a knife can be inserted into the beet with little effort, about an hour and a half. Peel and quarter beets before plating. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Add carrot juice to a large saucepan, set pan over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until juice is reduced to one-sixth its original volume in a sauce pan, or about 2/3 cup. Take pan off heat, add lemon juice, and slowly whisk in butter until emulsified. Crush hazelnuts in a food processor and bake at 350 degrees until they acquire a toasted color and scent. To serve, place 2 ounces of burrata on each plate and pour a little bit of finishing oil over the top. Place beets around cheese and drizzle with carrot reduction. Garnish with toasted hazelnuts and arugula.

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Above: The casual restaurant with a serious menu

is perfect for a date night or a family dinner.

Festival in 2015, he hand rolled 4,500 mezzaluna with braised short rib, dressing each one carefully with truffle fonduta and topping them with shaved truffle flown in from Italy. St. Petersburg collectively swooned, and now that dish is impossible to remove from the menu at Il Ritorno. “I’ve thought about taking it off, but it’s become one of our classics. The octopus puttanesca is another good example of who we are as a restaurant,” he says. “It’s deconstructing tradition, with octopus instead of anchovy, a confit of tomato instead of thick tomato sauce, a thin kalamata puree instead of the whole olives, with calabrian chile oil and garlic confit. I tell people it’s not your ‘chicken parm and tomato sauce’ kind of Italian. We use classic Italian flavors with modern techniques.” Even when Il Ritorno first opened, with

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a microscopic kitchen and only ten burners, two taken up with boiling pasta water, David and his small team were making their own pastas, breads and gelatos. Their plates are jewel-like, and their compositions are architectural and exacting, with the occasional molecular gastronomy sleight of hand. All that said, it is still the kind of inviting, neighborhood restaurant that seems equally appropriate for date night or a family dinner (the Benstocks themselves are parents to Ethan, 3, and Miles, nearly 1). In a space that now seats 53 but will balloon to hold more than 150, a long expanse of brick wall, upholstered banquettes strewn with pillows and a generous granite bar lend warmth. But it’s what’s on Benstock’s plates, from seafood brodetto to tallegio agnolotti, that keeps diners coming back.

This page:

Benstockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smoked beets and burrata, masterfully plated

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ON THE FLY:BIRD’S-EYE VIEW

A WA L K I N G G U I D E TO O U R FAVO R I T E N E I G H B O R H O O DS

2nd Avenue Notrth

9 12

Central Avenue Notrth

First Avenue South

ART WALK

east South

Beach Drive

A mix of independent businesses and world-famous museums make this city by the bay a cultural haven. 6. FLORIDA CRAFTART This nonprofit

2. MOREAN ARTS CENTER The 100-year-

7. THE MILL Le Cordon Bleu alum Ted Dorsey blends Southern and French cuisine in an award-winning, farmstead-chic eatery.

old organization houses a sprawling permanent collection of Dale Chihuly’s glass works, as well as a studio where guests can watch glass blowers in action. 719 Central Ave.

3. DADDY KOOL RECORDS The purveyor

of new, used and rare vinyl albums, CDs, posters and collectibles offers music buffs a one-stop shop. 666 Central Ave. N

4. ZAZOOD Interior designer David Fischer stocks his furniture emporium with nautical finds and whimsical pieces. 531 Central Ave.

5. ST. PETE ARTWORKS The cooperative art gallery showcases members’ works in a variety of media. 635 Central Ave.

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runs a large retail gallery, organizes exhibits and leads area walking tours. 501 Central Ave.

200 Central Ave. #100

8. JANNUS LIVE The open-air music hall opened in 1984 to support local punk and reggae bands, but has since hosted household names of all genres. 200 1st Ave. N 9. SHAPIRO’S GALLERY Features a big

selection of blown glass, jewelry, metal art and wood sculptures. 300 Beach Dr. NE #112

10. THE BIRCHWOOD Luxuriate in

French linens and a clawfoot bathtub at this boutique hotel with a posh rooftop bar.

340 Beach Dr. NE

11. THE VINOY Enjoy an 18-hole golf course, expansive spa and speakeasy-style restaurant at this iconic Mediterranean Revival resort built in the ’20s. 501 5th Ave. NE

12. MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS The

museum’s collection covering nearly 5,000 years of civilization includes masterpieces from Monet, O’Keeffe and Whistler.

255 Beach Drive. NE

13. CASSIS AMERICAN BRASSERIE A sumptuous menu of Provencal favorites, from bouillabaisse to brioche au sucre, transports guests to the French Riviera.

170 Beach Drive. NE

14. SALVADOR DALÍ MUSEUM Discover more than 2,100 works from every moment and every medium of the surrealist artist’s career. 1 Dali Blvd.

ILLUSTR ATION: LESLIE CHALFONT

1. THE CHIHULY COLLECTION Explore a gallery built to showcase Dale Chihuly’s iconic glass sculptures. 720 Central Ave.

ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE B y E va N a g o rsk i

Hotel Hideaways

From glittering glass condos with ocean views in Miami to stately homes on Disney property, some of the state’s classic hotels and resorts double as residences.

DEFUNIAK SPRINGS

MIAMI BEACH

COURTESY OF THE RITZ-CARLTON RESIDENCES MIAMI BEACH

THE RITZ-CARLTON RESIDENCES, MIAMI BEACH

Experiencing daily life in the vibrant and cultural melting pot of Miami is delightful, particularly if you’re living at the luxurious Ritz-Carlton Residences. Covering more than seven acres in Miami Beach, the property, due to open before the end of 2017, was expertly designed by Italian architect Piero Lissoni. Whether you own one of the 111 condominium residences or one of the 15 stand-alone villas, you have access to top-tier concierge services managed by the Ritz. Enjoy the Boffi kitchens and baths, gardens, pools, entertainment spaces and 36 private boat docks. Want more? Additional services include a private, crewed day yacht; the world’s first residential art studio; a private screening room; an indoor-outdoor spa; pet grooming facilities; and a meditation garden. 4701 N. Meridian Ave. Price: $2 million to $40 million theresidencesmiamibeach.com

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ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE

FOUR SEASONS PRIVATE RESIDENCES ORLANDO

All your dreams really can come true at Disney. In the posh Golden Oak community, located just four miles from Magic Kingdom, you can let your imagination run wild in the Four Seasons Private Residences at the Walt Disney World Resort. The custom-built singlefamily homes are set on half-acre lots and range from 6,000 to 10,000 square feet. As a Four Seasons homeowner, you can enjoy tennis courts, pools, restaurants, a 5-acre water park, spa, and even golf cart parking. And as a resident of the Golden Oak community, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a member of the Golden Oak Club, where you have access to a private clubhouse and a team that can help you arrange anything from private dinners to transportation to the Disney parks. The team also hosts theme park parties and special events. 10501 Dream Tree Blvd. Price: From $5 million orlandoprivateresidences.com

ORLANDO

TUSCAN RIVERFRONT ESTATE

MLS ID: 884960

Offered at $2,490,000

Tuscan riverfront estate with manicured gardens, infinity pool, outdoor fireplace, summer kitchen, dock and boatlift. Interior boasts four ensuite bedrooms, coffered and wood beam ceilings, luxurious kitchen with Thermador appliances, theatre room, wine cellar and library.

A D I F F E R E N T K I N D O F R E A L E S TAT E T E A M

(904) 285.6927 2 8 0 P O N T E V E D R A B LV D , PONTE VEDRA BEACH, FL 32082

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Gwinn

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MIS Information Science Digital Media Expert Sales Associate

(904) 333.1111 jayneyoung1111@aol.com

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ON THE FLY:THE ROOST RE AL ESTATE DOLLARS & SENSE

Palm Beach THE ATLANTIC HOTEL & SPA, FORT LAUDERDALE

Fort Lauderdale Beach got a few degrees hotter in June 2004, when the Atlantic Hotel and Spa opened. Located in the area sometimes known as the Venice of America for its numerous rivers and canals, the Mediterranean-style boutique resort keeps its room count low—just 124—to maintain the ambience of an exclusive oceanfront club where guests and owners are known by their names, not their room numbers. The units for sale range from 600 to 1,400 square feet and are fully furnished. Other perks of ownership include marble baths, pools, a 24-hour doorman and valet service, a 7,000-square-foot fitness center and a European spa. Because of the hotel’s close proximity to the beach, bragging rights to terrace views of the Atlantic are included, too. 601 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd. Price: $295,000 to $890,000 atlanticluxuryproperties.com

Palm Beach BREAKERS WEST PALM, THE ATL ANTIC HOTEL & SPA

THE BREAKERS, PALM BEACH

The stunning, historic Breakers Hotel crashed onto the Palm Beach scene in the late 1800s, thanks to tycoon Henry Flagler. To this day, it’s one of the most desirable places to stay along the Florida coastline, and the resort’s luxury residences at 1 N. Breakers Row boast one of the state’s premier addresses. The condominiums, which range in size from 3,500 to 5,000 square feet, come with access to a fitness center and club room, as well as an outdoor pool accented with two whirlpool spas and private cabanas. Other perks include valet parking and in-room dining courtesy of the hotel. Residents can also join The Breakers Ocean Club for access to golf, tennis, pool and beach facilities. Just a warning: Once you start using your new mailing address, everyone you know will be clamoring to visit. 1 N. Breakers Row Price: From $7 million THEBREAKERS.COM/RESIDENTIAL-LEASES

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ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROAD TR IP–WORTHY EVENTS (NORTH) SING OUT LOUD FESTIVAL ST. AUGUSTINE

Sept. 8—10, Sept. 15—17, Sept. 22—24 The nation’s oldest city isn’t only brimming with history, culture and beaches. St. Augustine is a booming music town, and its Sing Out Loud Festival proves that point. The three-weekend event, with acts such as Steve Earle, Lake Street Dive and Lydia Loveless, will have hundreds of artists performing on stages all over town. Ryan Murphy, director of the St. Johns County Cultural Events Division and coordinator of the festival, says the idea is to “pair international and national touring talent with local musicians by putting them in the same festival environment.” singoutloudfestival.com

FOO FOO FEST

Above: A mural that was painted during Jacksonville’s inaugural ArtRepublic in 2016 Below: Lake Street Dive will perform at St. Augustine’s Sing Out Loud Festival.

P E N S A C O LA

Pensacola sails into fall by celebrating its artists and culture for 12 days straight.

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From the Blue Angels Homecoming Air Show to the Big Green Egg Cook-off and the songwriters festival, this multifaceted event offers a whole mix of experiences— even a marathon. Each year, the festival is put on by grant recipients from Art, Culture and Entertainment Inc. (ACE). These talented folks have created works to “showcase Pensacola and Escambia County as one of the premier arts and cultural destinations in the southeast,” says David Bear, president of ACE. foofoofest.com

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ARTREPUBLIC EXPO JACKSONVILLE

November 1—12 The streets of downtown Jacksonville get a serious injection of visual stimulation during ArtRepublic’s 12-day Expo. Massive murals transform the exterior walls of buildings throughout the city’s Urban Core district. Outdoor fashion shows unfold in unexpected venues around town, and street performances enchant fairgoers. The vibrant nonprofit, jubilant about the success of its 2016 inaugural event, will continue to showcase international, national and local artists. This year offers more in the areas of technology (think: digital art) and design, as well as deeper corporate involvement. As ArtRepublic President Jessica Santiago says, “Art is the best medium for creating great change to any area or culture.” artrepublicjax.org

STRUMMIN’ MAN UKULELE FESTIVAL PA N A M A C I T Y

October 13—15 Northwest Florida just got a lot more lyrical with the inaugural Strummin’ Man Ukulele Festival. The three-day event, which will ring out from Panama City’s historic St. Andrews fishing village, features a slew of internationally renowned singers and songwriters specializing in the tiny fourstringed instrument. Among them are Lil’ Rev, Rachel Manke, Taimane, and the duo Sarah Maisel and Craig Chee. The musical gathering includes workshops for aspiring players, vendors, performances by ukulele groups and a Sunday jazz brunch. Feel the good vibrations all weekend long, as event proceeds go toward promoting music education throughout Bay County schools. standrewsukes.org/strum

DANNY CLINCH, JACKSONVILLE ARTREPUBLIC , 2015 LUCAS FILM LIMITED

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August 31—November 13 It’s no small world adventure when oenophiles and foodies embark on this annual culinary trek around Epcot. Libations flow from all corners of the iconic Disney park, now 35 years old, as festivalgoers eat, drink and dance their way around the World

Showcase, where 35 gastro-kiosks serve everything from Greek grape leaves to Brazilian pork belly and Belgian waffles. The event attracts top talent, including lauded Floridians Art Smith, former personal chef to Oprah, and Kim Yelvington, pastry chef at the famed Bern’s Steak House. Cooking demos, fancy feasts, celebrity toques and a concert series keep attendees buzzing from more than just the wine. disney.com

STAR WARS AND THE POWER OF COSTUME ST. PETERSBURG

November 11, 2017—April 1, 2018 The Star Wars franchise has captivated the world’s imagination with epic sagas spanning the last four decades; now, the

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ON THE FLY:THE TIDE ROAD TR IP–WORTHY EVENTS (C E N T RA L ) Museum of Fine Arts in St. Petersburg is bringing a deeper exploration of the series to the Sunshine State. Star Wars and the Power of Costume is a traveling exhibition featuring more than 60 handcrafted costumes and pieces of concept art from the films. Works show the processes, symbolism and inspirations behind the franchise’s visual narrative. Make the trip to the only showing of the exhibition in the Southeast and indulge your nerdy side while appreciating the finer artistic points of the sci-fi series. mfastpete.org

FLORIDA BIRDING AND NATURE FESTIVAL RUSKIN

October 13—15 Above: The 2017 World Rowing Championships, taking place in Sarasota, return to the U.S. for

See Florida Wild, Ward’s photo column in Flamingo, on page 98. floridabirdingandnature festival.org

RENNINGER’S ANTIQUE AND COLLECTOR’S EXTRAVAGANZA MOUNT DORA

November 17—19 Renninger’s Antique and Collector’s Extravaganza has a proud history of hosting successful events in Mount Dora. More than 800 vendors provide thousands of visitors with a huge selection that includes retro furniture, paintings, jewelry, military collectibles, porcelain pieces, advertising memorabilia, books and vintage coins. Look for high-end items, too, many of which sell for thousands of dollars. More than 20 food vendors will be on site offering

Left: Kick off the stone crab season in Naples this year.

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fare as diverse as the antiques selection—even if you leave without antiques, you won’t leave hungry. You don’t need to be an antiques enthusiast to enjoy this sneak peek into history. renningers.net

(SOUTH) 2017 WORLD ROWING CHAMPIONSHIPS S A R A S O TA

September 23—October 1 A gleaming 400-acre lake designed and built expressly to attract the best competitive rowers in the world fulfills its destiny this September as it hosts the 2017 World Rowing Championships. Home to one of the only world-class rowing facilities in North America, Nathan Benderson Park in Sarasota will become the epicenter of the rowing world

the first time in 20 years.

and the first American facility to host the championships in two decades. More than 40,000 attendees will fill the grassy hills overlooking the course as athletes from about 60 countries compete for a chance to be crowned the very best in the world. wrch2017.com

SEED, FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL MIAMI BEACH

November 1—5 The Seed, Food & Wine Festival celebrates all things vegan with a plant-based food bonanza. The week begins at the Seed Summit with a morning filled with yoga, networking, and scavenger hunts; the summit is followed by the plant-based burger battle, where top chefs compete for guests’ votes. The following day is dedicated to a conference on improving the methods used to produce and consume our food; it’s

NAPLES MARCO ISL AND EVERGL ADES CVB, COURTESY 2017 WORLD ROWING CHAMPIONSHIPS, RINGLING INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL, JIM GR AY

Wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and nature newcomers will flock to some of Florida’s wildest corners over the course of three days for a chance to see and photograph some of the more than 180 species of birds living in and migrating though the area. The festival offers 20 field trips led by conservationists and birders into pristine Florida nature. Speakers will explore topics ranging from land restoration to, of course, birds; at last year’s event, wildlife photographer and Flamingo contributor Carlton Ward Jr. gave the keynote address.

punctuated by a complimentary lunch. The gastro-fair peaks on Saturday, when more than 150 restaurants, bakeries, and brands present a spread of samplings of delicious plantbased treats at the Mana Wynwood Convention Center. seedfoodandwine.com

RINGLING INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL S A R A S O TA

October 18—21 Two men suspended above the crowd scamper across a giant video screen; strobe lights flash as dancers weave around a pre-apocalyptic landscape; a photographer thumbs through memories of a 3,500-kilometer hike through Germany. From high-wire acts to interpretive dance, the annual Ringling International Arts Festival offers an array of 60-minute performances at the largest

Above: Dancers perform at the Ringling International Arts Festival.

Above: A roseate spoonbill in flight at the Celery Fields in Sarasota

museum in Florida. Ranging from the quiet act of flipping through photographs to the thrilling nature of a high-wire act with video screen, the festival’s inventive performances explore not just the globe but also the vast range of inspirations for contemporary dance and theater. ringling.org

STONE CRAB FESTIVAL N AP L E S

October 27—29 For the city of Naples and the Paradise Coast, stone crab season—which begins in midOctober and ends in May—is as much a part of the calendar as summer, spring, fall and winter. The city honors the opening of this season with a three-day festival that fills the waterfront with live music, aquatic activities and plenty of delicious stone crab, as vital to the Naples economy as any other export. The festival is located on the historic waterfront, yet incorporates the modern attractions of a tropical destination. Naples synthesizes both new and old for a perfect blend of fun in the sun. stonecrabfestival.com

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FLORIDIANA

Miami’s Gleaming Great Estate

HOUSE of GLASS B

uilt between 1914 and 1922 in Coconut Grove, this 38,000-square-foot, 50-acre estate—dubbed Vizcaya—was once the winter home of agricultural industrialist James Deering and is now a popular museum and National Historic Landmark. “In the 1930s, my father and his friends used to sneak onto the Vizcaya boathouse on Biscayne Bay because that’s where the best fishing was,” says Shanon Materio, co-founder of McMow Art Glass Inc. in Lake Worth. Coincidentally, McMow repaired and restored all the blown-glass windows on the house’s main floor—a project that began in the late 1980s and continued through 2014.

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The estate’s design was inspired by European villas and features Floridian flourishes. The building incorporates a mix of antique Italian marble and native coral rock, and local shells were used to decorate grottoes and bridges within the 10-acre formal gardens. The main house has 54 rooms, 34 of which are open to the public, and showcases more than 2,500 art objects and furnishings. The grounds are home to an orchid collection of 2,000 specimens and 25 acres of endangered primary growth forests. Take a tour with some of the 200,000plus people who visit each year, and don’t miss the museum’s 31st annual Halloween Sundowner. Costumes are a must. —Jane Bianchi

MAJOR INTERNATIONAL LEADERS WHO HAVE VISITED VIZCAYA INCLUDE: Presidents Reagan and Clinton, Queen Elizabeth II, King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia of Spain, and Pope John Paul II.

BILL SUMNER COURTESY OF VIZCAYA MUSEUM AND GARDENS ARCHIVES (ABOVE, BELOW)

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