PRESTIGE Worldwide Digital Singapore 04/2019 by firstconsulenza

VOLUME 4

SINGAPORE

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quarterly magazine

CORRECTOR ANDREAS PROBST

PUBLISHER FRANCESCO J. CIRINGIONE

TRANSLATOR DR. RONALD GARRY

rundschauMEDIEN AG St. Jakob-Strasse 84 CH-4132 Muttenz T +41 (0)61 335 60 80 F +41 (0)61 335 60 88 info@rundschaumedien.ch rundschaumedien.ch

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MEMBER OF THE BOARD HASAN DURSUN h.dursun@rundschaumedien.ch EDITOR-IN-CHIEF SWENJA WILLMS s.willms@rundschaumedien.ch DEPUTY EDITOR-IN-CHIEF NIKE SCHRÖDER n.schroeder@rundschaumedien.ch MANAGING EDITOR BORIS JAEGGI b.jaeggi@rundschaumedien.ch SALES PATRICK FREY p.frey@rundschaumedien.ch VIRGINIE VINCENT v.vincent@rundschaumedien.ch FRANCO D'ELIA f.delia@rundschaumedien.ch MICHELE ZITO m.zito@rundschaumedien.ch URS HUEBSCHER u.huebscher@rundschaumedien.ch ALBAN MULAJ a.mulaj@rundschaumedien.ch HEAD OF PRODUCTION & ART DIRECTION EMMA R. SCHAUB e.schaub@rundschaumedien.ch PRODUCT PUBLIC RELATION LAURA GIARRATANA l.giarratana@rundschaumedien.ch

EDITORS GISBERT L. BRUNNER OMAR DEWJI WILMA FASOLA PATRICK FREY WILHELM J. GRUSDAT LONE K. HALVORSEN THOMAS HAUER SIMONE HOFFMANN DANIEL HUBER URS HUEBSCHER BEAT KRENGER NINA MERLI ELMAR MOCK BEATRICE SCHÖNHAUS STEPHANIE STEINMANN ANNA KAROLINA STOCK MARTIN STROHBECK HELENA UGRENOVIC ANDY ZAUGG COVER shutterstock PHOTOGRAPHS shutterstock, Bucherer, TAG Heuer, Audemars Piguet, Oris,Bulgari, Chanel, Roger Dubuis,Carl F. Bucherer, A. Lange Söhne,Greubel Forsey, Tods, Richard Burbridge, Dior, Bobbie Brown, Louboutin, CHEDI, Maiensässhotel Guarda Val, The Capra Saas Fee ADMIN, COORDINATION & SUBSCRIPTIONS SERPIL DURSUN s.dursun@rundschaumedien.ch PRICE Issue CHF 10.–/€ 9.50 Year CHF 39.–/€ 35.– IT SUPPORT DEJAN DJOKIC deki@rundschaumedien.ch WEB SERVICES websiteria GmbH info@websiteria.ch is a registered trademark. (IGE 596.147) ISSN 1662-1255

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ART & CUL TURE 26

26 THE MAGIC OF EVERYDAY LIFE Cig Harvey 32 EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHOICE Art in the form of a Book 34 INSIDER The Life of an Art Collector 40 COLUMN Wilhelm J. Grusdat 42 THE VOICE OF THE RAINFOREST Bruno Manser

46 CHINA From the Future into the Past 56 GOLF PARADISE TENERIFFA Abama Resort 58 GREEN LUXURY Travel with a Clear Conscience

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62 STYLISH OASES One & Only Resorts 64 SOURCE OF REGENERATION Grand Resort Bad Ragaz 68 TIMELESS BEAUTY Vakkaru Maldives

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72 IN CONVERSATION Ricardo Guadalupe 82 TIMELESS GLAMOUR Harry Winston Cluster 86 FOR VOYEURS OF THE MECHANISM See-through Watches 92 A STROKE OF LUCK Second Hand Watches

JEWEL L 82 ERY 94 MO TION

94 THE BRITISH LEGEND Aston Martin DB5

100 AVIATION The Golden Age 106 THE AUTOMOBILE A Look Back

110 THE EIGHTH GENERATION Porsche 911

GÃ¼belin

WAT CHES &

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FASH ION

112 BLACK POWER BEAUTIES Supermodels with a Mission

112

BEAUTY& WELL 132 BEING 140 LIVI NG 20

122 FASHION-WEEK IN THE CARIBBEAN Dominicana Moda 2019 126 THE INVENTOR OF THE SUPERMODELS Peter Lindbergh

132 ALL EYES ON ME The Dramatic Look of your Eyes 138 PINK RIBBON NIGHT #TimeToEndBreastCancer

140 THE STYLISH EVERYDAY COMPANION The Daybed 144 MAGIC HALL OF MIRRORS A Vertiginous Bookshop 148 THE MAGIC OF MEDITERRANEAN LIFE Exclusive Villas ‘Le Ramingao’

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Maximum Wellbeing What is luxury, if you don‘t have the time to enjoy it? Maura Wasescha

Luxury means not having to be concerned with its practical matters, but to be able to enjoy the perfect moment in the company of family or friends. Totally free of worry, knowing that in the background there is a team who will fulﬁll all your wishes. This is why Maura Wasescha doesn’t just have exclusive properties for sale or rent. Maura Wasescha does more. She offers the perfect luxury service, so that the magic of the moment becomes timeless enjoyment.

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CULI NA RIUM

172 152 COURCHEVEL À la carte 164 ANYTHING GOES Surrealist Dinner 166 MAISON BELLE ÉPOQUE The World of Perrier-Jouët

176

FI NAN CE TRENDS ART & CULTURE TRAVEL JEWELLERY MOTION FASHION WOMEN FASHION MEN BEAUTY LIVING CULINARIUM FINANCE

Christian Louboutin

41 67 84 105 120 131 137 151 162 178

171 COLUMN Andy Zaugg 172 THE STARS OF BUDAPEST ‘Onyx’ 176 SNACKIFICATION Little Happiness Makers

180 UNDERSTANDING THE INNOVATION PROCESS Elmar Mock on the Spirit of Invention 184 CRYPTO CURRENCY Who, how & what 188 EGOISM ALLOWED Women and Negotiations

10 IMPRESSUM 25 EDITORIAL 190 VORSCHAU

PERRIER-JOUĂ&#x2039;T BLANC DE BLANCS An enticing, vivacious champagne made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes. It results a well-balanced blend with freshness and vitality, characterized by light tang of citrus mingling with fresh floral notes.

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BOUTIQUES GENÈVE • PARIS • LONDON • BERLIN • NEW YORK MIAMI • BEVERLY HILLS • LAS VEGAS MOSCOW • DUBAI • TOKYO • HONG KONG SINGAPORE • SAINT-TROPEZ • CANNES COURCHEVEL • ZERMATT • ZÜRICH

EDITORIAL

CLUB OF PIONEERS

In order to achieve great things, we take pleasure in getting lost in the labyrinth of unlimited possibilities. After all, almost every door in today’s world is open to us. Those who want to reach the summit must not only find the courage to make a decision, but also have the ability to build upon it. Success doesn’t just come by chance. For example, Ricardo Guadalupe, who for years pulled the strings as an indispensable partner who remained in the background before eventually being appointed CEO of Hublot. This step required both a strong spirit of discovery and the courage to break new ground, as he relates in his interview. Elmar Mock, co-inventor of Swatch, is also aware of the challenges posed by innovative processes and with his article sharpens the hunting instinct of every inventor: ‘Innovators do not go truffle hunting on the highway. They take the backroads, the ones that nobody ever takes’. And Ryan Tandya, the fashion and lifestyle photographer who hails from Indonesia, who as an autodidact took the reins of his career into his own hands and similarly tread an unfamiliar path. Those who have succeeded in making a name for themselves will pay attention to their values and history, such as the prestigious Perrier-Jouët champagne house, which we visited exclusively on the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay. These are just a few of the pioneers who provide us with invaluable inspiration and new reading material. However, we do not want to just cling to these prime examples; it is also our own motivation and will power that propels growth every single day, so that we not only follow the rules, but one day also write them ourselves.

EDI TO RIAL

Swenja Willms Editor in Chief

ART ART && CULCULTURE TURE

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ART & CULTURE

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THE MAGIC OF EVERYDAY LIFE

Author_Swenja Willms Images_Cig Harvey

OUR EVERYDAY LIVES SOMETIMES SEEM TO BE FAST-PACED, ÂM ONOTONOUS AND UNSPECTACULAR. ALL THE MORE IMPORTANT FOR US TO PAY PERSONAL ATTENTION TO THE LITTLE THINGS THAT ENRICH OUR WORLD. THE ART PHOTOGRAPHER CIG HARVEY, WHOSE WORKS ARE RICH IN IMPLICIT NARRATIVES AND NATURAL ENVIRONMENTS, TAKES ON THIS TASK IN ORDER TO VISIBLY CAPTURE THE MAGICAL IN THE ORDINARY. 28

ART & CULTURE

PRESTIGE: Cig, you are known for your surreal photographs of nature and family. Why are these themes so fascinating to you? CIG HARVEY: They are subjects that are visible to us every day and surround us â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ordinary yet incomparable. In my work I accentuate what we encounter daily, so that we have a greater appreciation of the world we live in. Are surrealism and familiarity two opposites for you? I think that the way I distill the familiar out of the ordinary world leaves a surreal impression on the viewer of my photographs. I personally would not describe the pictures as surreal. They are perhaps rare, extraordinary moments that I capture, but not surreal ones. As a viewer of your photographs, one feels transported into a typical American suburban life. A life that you lead yourself and that also influences your work? For me, the connection to nature is more important than suburban life. Maine reminds me in many ways of my birthplace, Devon, in the southwest of England: the lush, vibrant green of the forests, the apple trees and flowers inspire me very much. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel to attracted to the desert, even though this is a favourite place for many photographers. A large segment of your pictures are therefore created in Maine? Yes, this underpins the basic idea of my work: to experience and enjoy the world we live in with our eyes wide open and not

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ART & CULTURE

only when we travel to Paris or go on a safari tour. To appreciate the world in the moment. When I take my photos in foreign places, I also try not to accentuate the surroundings, but instead, to make the picture look as if it was made where I live. Capturing an image in a natural environment also presents challenges: Nature cannot be influenced from the outside. Does your credo sometimes stand in your way? I just returned from a shoot in a field of wild flowers which I found by chance within the last days. I was fascinated by the luminous colours: red, green, pink, purple, orange. I see it as my task to accentuate the best of nature in my pictures. As a result, I visited this field yesterday, again today after last night’s heavy rain, and I will be going there again later tonight. What I mean to say is that it is impossible to control nature, but I can control when I get up, what days I plan to take photographs and what tools I use. Nature tells its story and I catch it with light, weather and atmosphere. Sometimes this happens immediately, and sometimes you visit a certain subject or landscape over and over again.

You Look At Me Like An Emergency, 2012 Cig Harvey’s first book is a visual autobiography, which was shaped in over a decade by the central relationships of photography. Schilt Publishing 144 pages, 74 photographs ISBN: 9789053307710

You therefore devote a lot of time to planning your photographs. Do you still sometimes take spontaneous pictures? My camera accompanies me every day and I constantly capture all kinds of things I see. And sometimes the picture comes to me first and then I start with the compositions. Normally, everything that concerns me personally also appears in the picture. My ordinary lifestyle and feelings like love, fear, hope and hate. I am at the same time constructor and responder. Your current exhibition is called ‘Eating Flowers’, in which you combine various media such as videos, photographs and handwritten texts. What was the basic idea behind such a concept? ‘Eating Flowers’ is the result of 18 years of work. Originally, a ‘mid career survey’ was planned by the exhibition management – a summary of my past work. However, this was not quite what I had in mind, and so we focused for the time being on my then current work, which was dedicated to the theme of the five senses. When I then studied my works of the past twenty years, I noticed that many of my photographs had already taken up this theme and were directly connected to sensual experiences or the mingling of senses. For years I have connected my pictures to this theme without really realizing it. This was a very inspiring moment for me, and that is why I am so proud of this exhibition. It is very different from all the other exhibitions I have been able to realize so far. I have been working with different media for years, but have never been able to present them all together in one exhibition. It is a new experience of all human senses.

Gardening at Night, 2015 While the predecessor was finding and defining a home ‘Gardening at Night’ means to settle in one’s own landscape and to create life where one is. Schilt Publishing 144 pages, 80 photographs ISBN: 9789053308448

Would you like to continue this concept in the future? Absolutely, I have never been more inspired. This is a moment in my career when I found the central core of all my work.

You An Orchestra You A Bomb, 2017 Cig Harvey’s third monograph examines the photographer’s relationship to life itself. Schilt Publishing 144 pages, 80 photographs ISBN: 9789053308936

WWW.CIGHARVEY.COM cig_harvey

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EDITOR’S CHOICE John Updike: Über Kunst / Schriften 1979 – 2008 Piet Meyer

REDISCOVER ART

John Updike has not only written nearly thirty novels and countless essays, but has also written texts on art for renowned American magazines such as ‘The New Yorker’ and ‘The New Republic’. Updike’s art essays combine the best of both worlds: the deeply felt proximity to art, especially painting, which enabled him to to look precisely and carefully, and the literary man’s ability to easily grasp fundamental themes of the human condition. The volume is divided into European and American artists and contains numerous illustrations as well as an epilogue.

THE GIFTED SCULPTOR

Henri Matisse is famous as a revolutionary painter and inventor of the paper découpés. For a long time his sculptural works stood in the shadow of his paintings. This book, published on the occasion of an exhibition at the Kunsthaus Zürich in autumn 2019, presents transformations and parallels to his paintings and drawings. Matisse’s various sources of inspiration – nude photographs, African and antique models – as well as photographs depicting the artist as a sculptor round off the presentation and present the French master from a more unfamiliar angle.

Kunsthaus Zürich: Matisse – Metamorphosen Scheidegger & Spiess

INTERWOVEN

‘Indian cloths’ are printed and painted cotton fabrics that came from India to Europe in the 16th century. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the whole of Europe was fascinated by the Indians, who had a lasting influence on society, the economy and fashion for almost two centuries. For the first time, the role of the numerous Swiss people who helped shape this highly profitable industry is described in detail. But not only economic aspects attracted the Swiss to India, missionaries also travelled to the subcontinent, and in the 20th century, a Swiss photographer brought pictures of Gandhi's struggle for independence to the entire world.

Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum: Indiennes Christoph Merian

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INSIDER – ONE WEEK

Author_Simone Hoffmann

ART & CULTURE

IN THE LIFE OF AN ART COLLECTOR

Champagne and parties? The Parisian Sandra HegedÃ¼s shows us the real Fair in the daily life of an art collector.

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‘We have to eat vitamins and put on sneakers’, warns Sandra Hegedüs laughingly on the phone, ‘it’s the most exciting week of the year because during FIAC, Paris is the hub of the art world’. The Grand Palais opens on Wednesday – but for insiders like Sandra Hegedüs the marathon starts on Monday. The Brazilianborn artist has lived in Paris since 1990. She started buying art in 2005. Sandra Hegedüs has a disciplined schedule for the FIAC week. ‘It’s easy, you’re out and about from morning to night, talking to people all the time,’ she laughs. Because we want to take it easy, we will start on Monday with the opening of the new group exhibition of the Palais de Tokyo. In front of the entrance of the museum there is a queue of visitors several hundred meters long. Sandra Hegedüs resolutely passes it and heads directly to the back entrance where the security guard greets her and immediately opens the door. No wonder, Sandra is a bit at home here. This former film producer is not only a collector, but also a patron. In 2009 she launched ‘Sam Art Projects’, a project to support artists from abroad. Each year, her jury awards prizes to two artists from non-European countries who are invited to Paris for residencies of up to eight months. The resulting works are currently being exhibited here in the Palais de Tokyo. ‘In France, there are many very successful artists from South America or Africa who are completely unknown. With Sam Art Projects I want to change that’. At the same time, this patron also supports French artists: ‘Cultural exchange is important to me, so being that I live here in France it’s natural for me to help the artists here realize their projects abroad’.

The opening of an exhibition at the Petit Palais is also a must. As a well-known collector and patron, Sandra has to be present at various events to support ‘her’ artists. Loud music roars in our direction, but this interests Sandra Hegedüs less than the knight’s armour she discovers in a corner. A work of art by the French artist Abraham Poincheval, who is known for his extreme performances. He likes to lock himself up in a boulder or in a bearskin for several days. ‘Abraham, are you in there? Move your little finger,’ Sandra shouts. Nothing moves in the knight’s armour. ‘He’s in there, but he can stay motionless for hours. Fascinating, isn’t it?’ It is hardly 9 p.m., but Sandra Hegedüs says goodbye. ‘Tomorrow we have to be fit’, she calls out to me. ENDURANCE RUN Punctually at eleven o’clock on Wednesday we wait with hundreds of other collectors for admission to the Grand Palais. The day before the public opening is specially reserved for important art collectors. You can feel the charged atmosphere because anyone who wants to buy here has to act quickly. Sandra Hegedüs is no exception. After only ten minutes she makes her first purchase: a work by the artist duo Ida Tursic and Wilfried Mille, both nominated for the Prix Marcel Duchamp in 2019. But that’s not what motivates this collector. ‘My purchases are impulsive. It’s not about it being an investment, it’s about falling in love with a piece. And this is funny, unexpected’. Another purchase follows a short time later, a work by the Scotsman Douglas Gordon. But the fair is serious work: at every French fair stand she spends time talking to the gallery owners about their artists, learning about new projects. After hours of running around at the fair, and despite sneakers, we are both knocked out. But the evening program today is quite exciting: The opening of David Zwirner’s Mega-Galerie is today the place to be. At 7 p.m. the visitors squeeze through the exhibition rooms and at this point you can barely see the art. The subsequent reception at the Loulou restaurant, strictly for invited guests, is much more civilized. Of course Sandra Hegedüs is there, even if she admits while shrugging her shoulders: ‘These recep-

WARM-UP With the Palais de Tokyo we had a little bit of a warm up. On Tuesday we visit the Tuileries Gardens, where 25 works by artists are installed especially for the FIAC. For Sandra Hegedüs it is a compulsory program: ‘The special thing about the FIAC is that in Paris you can discover art on the street for free. And then there are the OFF fairs, which are also very good: Asia Now, Paris Internationale, Galeristes. Even someone who has never bought before can discover interesting artists’.

ART & CULTURE

The Colombian Ivan Argote is one of Sandra’s protégés. His concrete sculptures have made him one of the most important newcomers in South America.

‘Great work, I need a photo,’ calls out Sandra Hegedüs as we pass the work of Paula Cooper.

ÂŠ Galerie Nathalie Obadia

ÂŠ Photo Archive Adagp

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ABOVE One of the most important OFF fairs is Galeristes in the Carreau du Temple. A very pointed selection of independent French galleries. BELOW In the Petit Palais, exceptional works can be discovered. This installation is by Laure Prouvost, who this year represented France at the Venice Biennale.

ART & CULTURE

doors. But Sandra Hegedüs apologizes beforehand: A group of Brazilians is now visiting their own collection. During the fair, it is common practice in Paris for collectors to open their homes for a private tour. Sandra Hegedüs’ collection includes several hundred works, ‘This is the story of my life! The collection is actually my own work of art. When I divorced, the collection was sad. And then happy once again when I fell in love anew’, Sandra explains. There is an anecdote to every work of art: ‘In this drawing by Douglas Gordon, the sharp ened pencil carvings were actually underneath but my cleaning lady swept them up.’ The guests don’t say goodbye until it gets dark.

tions are not my thing. It’s not about art!’ She exchanges words over champagne and snacks with artists and other collectors. Every one agrees: 2019 is a great vintage. The last appointment of the day is done by me alone, Sandra laughingly points to her feet: ‘I have to take a break! Let’s now go to the suburb Pantin. A concert of the French singer Adam Naas takes place in the museum-like gallery of Thaddaeus Ropac, amidst the works of Georg Baselitz. There will also be mousse au chocolat, macarons and of course champagne, as Thaddaeus Ropac knows best how to spoil collectors. SPRINT The galleries sold well the day before and are re-equipping their stands for the public opening. This time Sandra Hegedüs is a member of the purchasing committee of the Centre Pompidou. New acquisitions will be proposed during the FIAC visit and then voted on by the committee. Sandra takes her role as a committee member seriously. Being included in the Centre Pompidou collection is an important career step for artists. ‘If I can help, it’s wonderful’, she explains. After several hours, the vote takes place behind closed

FINISH LINE The week is coming to an end. On Friday evening Sandra takes me to our last appointment. She is a jury member of the Prix Ricard, which is an important prize for young artists. Exactly the right time to draw a conclusion. ‘It’s always about giving artists more freedom. Galleries give artists roots, I want to give them wings,’ she says. And with a yawn she adds: ‘But after this dinner I’ll go home and not take off my pyjamas until Monday!

Baitogogo, the exhibition of the Brazilian artist Henrique Oliveira, who came to Paris with through the Sam Art Projects in 2013, at the Palais de Tokyo.

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FROM THE LIFE OF A GALLERY OWNER: THERE’S MUSIC Author_Wilhelm J. Grusdat

IN THE AIR

Friendships with Pablo Picasso can get pretty wild. The composer Igor Stravinsky also found that out. The two tried to maintain their friendship through small gifts. In a telegram, Stravinsky transformed Picasso’s cubist painting into music. The staff lines of the clarinet melody could be read both horizontally and vertically, so that the simple piece became increasingly complex depending on the direction in which it was read. Picasso thanked the composer with three small portraits. One of them was so abstract that the composer had difficulties with the border police when he entered Switzerland. The latter thought that the drawing was a coded military plan and was only convinced that it was indeed art after extensive interrogation. Andy Warhol and David Bowie never became friends. That may have been because Warhol didn’t like the song that Bowie dedicated to him. Actually, the musician only wanted to express his admiration for the artist, whom he hadn’t met before. However, the finished recording begins with a conversation between Bowie and his manager in which they discuss how to correctly pronounce the name Warhol. The song itself discusses his minor and major vanities. Warhol didn’t think it was funny at all. During the only live performance in his factory, Warhol left the room in silence without ever again seeking out a conversation with Bowie. Ironically, it was the musician who portrayed Warhol in the movie ‘Basquiat’. David Byrne, singer and guitarist of the band Talking Heads, engaged Robert Rauschenberg for the design of the album ‘Speaking in Tongues’. Rauschenberg used an idea he had already employed in his sculpture series ‘Revolver’. Here he had mounted five plexiglass discs one behind the other set in a metal holder. The discs were printed with different motifs in red, green, blue and yellow. When the engine was switched on, the discs rotated so that new compositions became visible. For the album, Rauschenberg had a transparent vinyl LP printed with a three-color collage that took up this principle of color and form mixing. However, this process was so lengthy and costly that after three years of pro-

‘What I really wanted to do was make music. But I can't give up my day job for that!’

duction, Byrne was forced to release a second, cheaper version. Surprisingly, Andy Warhol was one of the superfans who spent 100 dollars on Rauschenberg’s version. Markus Lüpertz is a world famous painter, however, far fewer know that for more than 20 years he has also been playing in a band as a jazz pianist. This is the experimental free jazz band TTT (Triple Trip Touch) which was founded in 1983 in New York by the painter A.R. Penck and the musicians Frank and Heinz Wollny. When Penck started sculpting wood, he switched from piano to drums. There are probably certain rhythmic similarities between hammering on a wooden block and a drum. Lüpertz joined the band as a permanent member in the mid 90s when he retired to Ireland. In the meantime, his dynamic appearances are famous, in which he works the keys at a rapid tempo and often wobbles off the stage with bloody fingers.

ART & CULTURE

VITRA

This year the Vitra Design Museum in Weil a. Rhein celebrates its 30th anniversary. The current exhibition at the Vitra Design Museum runs until 19 January 2020 under the heading ‘Objects of Desire: Surrealism and Design 1924-present’.

SCHEIDEGGER & SPIESS The work of the Basel artist Bruno Gasser (1947-2010) continually revolves around the theme of grass. In this unique monograph, photographers Martin P. Bühler and Marcel Baumann show Gasser’s work from very unique perspectives.

KUNSTHALLE ‘TALSTRASSE’

With the exhibition ‘Das Frauenbild der 1920er Jahre. Zwischen Femme Fatale und Broterwerb’ the KUNSTHALLE ‘Talstrasse’ exhibits more than 70 works of classical modern painting and graphic art from the Frank Brabant Collection (Wiesbaden).

TRENDS by

ART & CULT URE

DESTROYERS / BUILDERS

The side tables ‘Windows of Bo Bardi’ are inspired by the architectural style of Brutalism. Available in three different variations: Concrete composite, lacquered wood and tulip-tree wood.

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ART & CULTURE

THE VOICE OF THE RAINFOREST WHILE BRUNO MANSER LIVED IN THE JUNGLE OF BORNEO FROM 1984 TO 1990, HIS FASCINATING ‘DIARIES FROM THE RAINFOREST’ WAS DEVELOPED: NOTES ON FLORA AND FAUNA AS WELL AS ON THE LANGUAGE, CULTURE AND LIFESTYLE OF THE PENAN, THE INDIGENOUS PEOPLE LIVING THERE. IN ADDITION TO THE EXCITING TEXTS, WHAT IS PARTICULARLY IMPRESSIVE ARE THE PICTURES THAT WERE DRAWN AND COLOURED WITH GREAT ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND DEVOTION. MANSER WARNED US BACK THEN THAT THE DEFORESTATION OF THE LAST RAINFORESTS WOULD NOT ONLY DESTROY THE PENAN’S HABITAT, BUT WOULD ALSO CONTRIBUTE SIGNIFICANTLY TO CLIMATE CHANGE.

Author_Swenja Willms Images_Christoph Merian Verlag

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MANSER’S

Manser’s reports and drawings about the culture and everyday life of the Penan, as well as precise insights into their fauna and flora, are unique. In the diaries we also learn about his struggle to preserve the habitat of these indigenous people. This put him in danger. A bounty of 50,000 dollars was put on his head. Forced to flee, he gave his notes to friends, media representatives and tourists who took the documents with them to Switzerland. The diaries reveal an observer who takes responsibility for the environment and looks where others look away. Despite the danger, Manser later visited the Penan again and again. He never returned from his last trip to the north of Sarawak: he has been missing since May 2000 and was officially declared missing on 10 March 2005. His fate remains uncertain to this day. In 2004 his diaries were published for the first time which included almost two thousand pages with notes and drawings from six years of life in the rainforest. It was very well received and received. For a long time the diaries were out of print, however, now a newly revised extended fourth edition, with an inserted map, has been published. In addition, the Historisches Museum Basel is dedicating to the activist the showcase exhibition ‘Staatsfeind – Bruno Manser und der Regenwald’. Manser’s concerns are more topical than ever. Today, many people, especially young people, are committed to the sustainable use of resources and to protecting the global climate. In his notes, Manser recognised and described the importance of preserving the rainforests that are so important for our global climate: his diaries are his legacy. ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Bruno Manser (born in Basel in 1954) spent many years working to preserve and protect the habitat of the Penan, the original inhabitants of Borneo. He never returned from his last trip to Sarawak. Even today, the Bruno Manser Fund, which he founded, continues its fight for the Penan and their habitat as well as for other indigenous peoples.

Bruno Manser – Tagebücher aus dem Regenwald Bruno Manser Fonds (Hg.) Soft cover, 720 pages 2019 Christoph Merian Verlag The newly revised edition of the bestseller now includes a large-format map with a local index and a poem by Franz Hohler to Bruno Manser. Showcase exhibition ‘Staatsfeind – Bruno Manser und der Regenwald’ at the Historisches Museum Basel from September 2019 to February 2020.

TRAVEL

www.louischevrolet.com

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CHINA A JOURNEY ABOUT THE FUTURE, INTO THE PAST Author_Daniel Huber Images_Marcel Steiner

View from the Yu Garden to the Shanghai Tower, which is the second highest building in the world.

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FROM THE OVER 400 KM / H FAST MAGNETIC LEVITATION TRAIN IN SHANGHAI TO THE ARCHAIC WATER BUFFALOES IN THE RICE FIELDS OF YUANYANG. AN 8,000 KILOMETER LONG ROUND TRIP THROUGH A FASCINATING COUNTRY IN RADICAL CHANGE AND MAKING A NEW DEPARTURE.

of the past with an abundance of small boutiques, cafés and bars. Above all, however, the stench of thousands of gasoline scooters or tuk-tuks as known from Bangkok and Manila, is missing. These were virtually banned from the streets by decree in the form of extremely expensive taxes. The local supply and mobility is usually provided by buzzing electric scooters or sharing bicycles. However, the tourist epicentre in Shanghai is the Bund, where we stayed at the Hotel Peninsula, the best hotel in town. Every day millions of photos and selfies are taken from the river promenade of the skyline of Shanghai. Prominantly featured are the skyscrapers of the financial district which lie on the other side of the Huangpu River. This is the western part of the Pudong district, which was built in the 1990s as a business and residential area. A striking landmark of the city is the television tower ‘Oriental Pearl Tower’, completed in 1995,468 meters high, it was the tallest building in China at the time. But a lot has happened since then, not only in Shanghai, but throughout the entire People’s Republic. Here, our trends of tomorrow are already being lived today. For example, people hardly pay with cash anymore, but instead by QR code and smartphone. In China, the intermediate step of using credit cards was basically neglected and it does not seem as though it will be developed any further. Whether in the supermarket, at the fish market, at the small dumpling shop on the roadside, for a ride in the Chinese Uber counterpart called Didi or in a luxury boutique, almost without exception, payment is made online via a smartphone with WeChat Pay or Alipay.

Apart from the Asian facial features of most other travellers and the Chinese lettering on the signs, we might as well have landed in New York after our twelve-hour direct flight from Zurich. Here, too, we are driven like sheep through large halls, past fingerprint scanning machines and bar tables with entry forms and then into the paddocks of the immigration authorities. Finally, the last yellow waiting line hurdle is overcome, and a grumpy, bored, civil servant reluctantly stamps the entry ‘okay’ from within her little cubbyhole. At least the intact suitcases are already making their rounds on the luggage conveyor. There remains one last x-ray check of our luggage and we actually arrive in Shanghai about one and a half hours after landing, which is okay. So far there are no big differences as opposed to arriving at the great opponent in the far west. But then we drive in an almost new, spruced up taxi towards Shanghai, and unlike in New York, we are neither slowed down by potholes nor by construction sites and traffic jams. We make rapid progress on the new, six-lane highway, with a conspicuous number of luxury, and above all electric, limousines with green license plates. In the distance, the contours of the imposing skyline can already be seen as we are suddenly overtaken by a magnetic levitation train on the right side of an elevated track, moving at a rapid pace. This train accelerates to a top speed of 430 km / h on the 30-kilometer pilot route between the airport and the new Expo Centre, making it the fastest commercially used train in the world. Anyone who wants to travel through China as a ‘Westerner’ via Shanghai first travels into the future.

PAY AND MONITOR WITH FACE RECOGNITION At the Hema shops of the Internet giant Alibaba, the customer payments are already made by app via facial recognition. This new technology is also being used by the state on a large scale for ubiquitous surveillance. A number of pilot cities are already demonstrating where this is likely to lead throughout China in the near future, in which all residents are monitored nationwide by video and evaluated according to a social points system. Walking across the street at a red light gives you deductions, buying healthy food and the grandmother visit gives plus points. Almost nothing remains hidden from the eyes of the state. Exemplary citizens are rewarded with amenities, those at the other end of the scale are punished with various measures and restrictions. Surprisingly, this gigantic surveillance apparatus is received by the Chinese themselves rather calmly or even positively and also celebrated in the state-owned media as a panacea against fraud and corruption on both a small and large scale. On the positive side, which is also noticeable to us, this lived Orwellian vision has significantly reduced crime. Shanghai is one of the safest cities in the world and we have never felt insecure or threatened during our entire round trip throughout China.

QUIET, GREEN CITY WITH ELECTRIC SCOOTERS Depending on the source and survey type, Shanghai is currently one of the largest, if not the largest, cities in the world with over 25 million inhabitants. All the more amazing is our first impression as we dive into the center of the metropolis after leaving the elevated highway which forms a ring around it. Despite morning rush hour traffic, the chaos on the streets is moderate. Even as we stroll through the pretty quarter of the French Concession in the afternoon, the expected Asian city hustle and bustle does not occur. On the contrary, mostly pretty avenues lead past houses with gardens and parks. The quarter radiates the international charm

NANJING LU: THE LUXURY SHOPPING MILE But Shanghai does not only surprise with futuristic means of transport and payment, Nanjing Lu is one of the longest and most magnificent shopping streets in the world. Here the People’s Republic shamelessly offers capitalist luxury goods from all over the world at Western prices, over around six kilometres long. Especially in the western area, Gucci, Armani, Prada, Louis Vuitton and co. surpass each other with still more pompous shopping temples. For China’s much-cited new middle class of 400 million people, most of these luxury goods are probably still out of re-

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CENTURIES-OLD RICE TERRACES CULTIVATED WITH WATER BUFFALOS Then the high-speed train from Guilin takes us to Kunming, some 1,000 kilometres to the east, in just a little over four hours where at least a third of the line is cut straight through the mountains, running through tunnels. The capital of the province of Yunnan lies at around 2,000 metres and is known for its diverse minority population, pleasant climate, rich food and the almost 40-year partnership with Zurich. Located here is the nearest airport to another tourist hotspot: the rice terraces of Yuanyang, which has been included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 2013. From that point on, there has been no stopping the tourist development of this miracle created by the Hani people over 1,300 years ago. Along the new feeder road there are over half a dozen viewing terraces with large parking lots, which guarantee a perfect photo of the rice terraces, of course after purchasing an entrance ticket depending on the time of day. And everywhere new hotels and restaurants are springing up. On the other hand, the hard work on the terraces is still done by water buffalos and mostly women, as it has been for centuries. Unlike in the cities, the transition from the Stone Age to super-modernity in this region in southwestern China, which until ten years ago was practically isolated from its surroundings, will take much longer. This is especially true since it is not in the interest of the central government that it should quickly happen. After all, the travelling middle class is not to be denied a view of their own, albeit man-made, wonders of nature with a great past.

ach. But nowhere is the number of millionaires or even billionaires growing faster than in Shanghai. This is also reflected in the automotive street scene, which is certainly comparable to that around Zurich’s Paradeplatz. Just as New York doesn’t represent the whole of the USA, Shanghai is not the same as the rest of China. This can already be seen in the capital Beijing, which we reach extremely comfortably with a high-speed train that travels the 1,320 kilometer long route at a speed of over 300 km / h in just four and a half hours. In the capital there is less future and more of the grand history of the former emperors and their great leader Mao Zedong. After an impressive day trip to the Great Wall, we are led almost breathlessly for two days through the Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven, Tiananmen Square and the Olympic Stadium. With these touristic highlights we soon realize: ‘Overtourism’ is not only a European phenomenon. China’s recently growing middle class has not only discovered consumption, but also travel, and who can blame them? Here, too, all known sights are flooded by Chinese tour groups led by loud guides armed with megaphones or radio microphones. At the same time, Western visitors dwindle into a negligible minority. LONGSHENG SWALLOWED BY TOURISM If we hadn’t noticed by now, when we travel from Guilin to the region Longsheng, we definitely get the idea of what an unchecked swelling tourist stream can do to a once remote and dreamy location. Thus, the way into the valley leads through a real tourist check-in gate with a gigantic bus parking lot, souvenir shops and restaurants. There the access tickets for the district must be bought. Afterwards, we practically go in a convoy to the three villages, where Ping’an, which can only be reached on foot, is the best known because it offers the most beautiful views, a selfie dream backdrop, on the centuries-old rice terraces. This has led to an unbridled building boom in this once so remote mountain village, in which hardly any of the village’s former magic remains. In Yangshuo, north of Guilin with its Eco-Park, which during the day is only open to cars for the inhabitants of the villages, things are much better. Here, tourists cycle comfortably on bicycles through the breathtakingly beautiful Karst landscape, or even better, they let themselves be carried down the Yulong River on typical bamboo rafts. These rafts are also used by the cormorant fishermen. However, they now mainly find their livelihood as photo subjects for tourists and less by the sale of the fish they catch. Another attraction not to be missed, which is found inside the park in the small village of Jima, is the ‘Yangshuo Ancient Garden Boutique Hotel’. This pleasant, quiet oasis with a stylishly converted manor house, beautiful gardens and pool offers a welcome break for stressed-out China travellers.

INDIVIDUAL CONTACT IS FRIENDLY AND OBLIGING WITHOUT EXCEPTION After four weeks and about 8,000 kilometers we fly back from Shanghai to Europe. The former Middle Kingdom has definitely awoken from its communist hibernation and the stereotype of cheap labour for the West is no longer appropriate. China, like Shanghai’s magnetic levitation train, has already surpassed us in terms of innovation and economic power, at least in the large metropolises with millions of inhabitants, first and foremost Shanghai. The development of this country of 1.4 billion people over the past ten years is probably quite unique. We are pleased with all the experiences we had, the impressions and above all personal encounters with the people in China. For us ‘Westerners’, when they are in a group, they may often come across as a little loud and rude, but individually when in direct contact, they were without exception consistently friendly and extremely courteous. The sum of all these impressions and experiences makes China an extremely exciting travel destination, which will hold many surprises in store for everyone and put a lot of prejudices in a different light.

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Dedicated to a great tradition: A calligrapher on the market of Guilin.

Man-made natural spectacle: The rice terraces of Yuanyang.

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Tips TR AV ELLING IN CHINA Those who want to travel around China should do so in a small group or even better with a private guide and driver. This makes the trip not only more pleasant, but also more exciting. English-speaking Chinese people are still the exception outside international hotels and restaurants. Accordingly, it becomes difficult, apart from the usual travel activities, to find out something about China and its rich culture, be it in a museum, while eating or walking through the old town.

THE ITINER A RY From Shanghai by high-speed train to Beijing, night train to Xian, flight to Guilin, journey to Longsheng, Yangshuo and back to Guilin, high-speed train to Kunming, journey to Tonghai, Jian Shui, Yuangyang and via Lunan back to Kunming, flight to Shanghai.

PERSONA L TIPS IN A DDITION TO THE W ELL-K NOW N TOU RIST HOTSPOTS Visit the Great Wall at Jinshanling, that is about 120 kilometers northwest of Beijing, the additional driving time is worthwhile, in addition, when in Beijing visit one of the traditional Hutong neighborhoods. In Xian, apart from the terracotta warriors, the Muslim quarter with the Great Mosque and the street market is also worth seeing. On the way from Kunming to the rice terraces of Yuanyang, stop in the pretty town of Jian Shui.

For centuries, the fields near Yangshou have been cultivated with water buffalos.

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THE BEST HOTEL IN TOW N The ‘Peninsula’ is located at the northern end of the Bund in a prime location. Residents of the river side rooms or suites awaken to breathtaking views of the Pudong skyline across the river. This is only surpassed by the night view from the Rooftop Bar on the 14th f loor. This five-star luxury hotel was built in 2009 in Art Deco style and offers every conceivable comfort. Guests are also spoilt with culinary delights. In addition to the restaurant in the lobby, there is the ‘Yi Long Court’ restaurant with Cantonese cuisine, which has been awarded two Michelin stars, and ‘Sir Elly’s’ restaurant with a Michelin star, which has a modern European feel. The adjacent park also houses the former British Embassy. The hotel serves afternoon tea in the venerable building and can also be booked for festive occasions. Hotel Peninsula, No. 32 The Bund – Shanghai www.peninsula.com Highly recommended in Yangshuo Hotel Yangshuo Ancient Garden Boutique Hotel No. 31, Jima Village – Yangshuo, www.yangshuoancientgarden.com Swiss China specialist Tourasia works together with the local partner agency China Travel Navigator in Xian. +41 (0)43 233 30 90 www.tourasia.ch

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A golf paradise on the island of eternal spring Author_Urs HĂźbscher Images_Los Jardines de Abama

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ONLY A FEW FLYING HOURS AWAY FROM SWITZERLAND YOU WILL FIND THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN EUROPE: THE ABAMA RESORT. IT IS SITUATED REMOTELY IN ONE OF THE QUIETEST CORNERS OF TENERIFE ON A VAST PROPERTY THAT STRETCHES UP TO THE FOOTHILLS OF THE TEIDE.

sea views, everyone will find what they are looking for. The apartments have an area of 62 to 143 square metres with terraces of 22 to 128 square metres. They are fully furnished and equipped with top brands such as Porcelanosa, Axor, Hansgrohe and Duravit so that the property owners only need to unlock the door and enjoy. Each apartment has a parking space and a private storage room in the basement. Built-in wardrobes, bedrooms with all comforts and energy saving facilities are other features that distinguish Los Jardines de Abama. Owners automatically become members of the Abama Prestige Owners Club and of an exchange program offered in partnership with The Registry Collection. Membership fees for the first two years are paid by Abama. With the exchange program, owners can exchange stays in Abama for stays in 240 other luxury destinations worldwide. Visit the Abama Resort and get your personal impression.

365 days a year of golf. This is only the beginning for the residents of the Abama Resort. Tenerife is one of the true paradises of Europe and impresses with a cultural passion that comes to the fore everywhere. Here, in the midst of the island’s protected nature reserves, you will find amazing properties just waiting to be discovered. ROMANTIC AND AT THE SAME TIME SPACIOUS APARTMENTS It is rare to find a refuge that captivates the senses as much as Los Jardines de Abama. The spacious apartments are located at the front of the Abama golf course designed by Dave Thomas and offer a direct view to the Atlantic Ocean. Dine outdoors, take a dip in the whirlpool and enjoy the resort’s subtropical garden landscape. The holiday apartments are offered with one, two or three bedrooms and with different floor plans, so that every interested party can find the apartment that suits them best. From apartments with garden access to duplex apartments on the first or second floor having spacious terraces and

WWW.ABAMAHOTELRESORT.COM

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Privacy first: Each villa has its own private beach.

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GREEN LUXURY –

LUXURY TRAVEL WITH A CLEAR CONSCIENCE Author_Nina Merli Images_Soneva Fushi

lion plastic bottles are saved annually because drinking water is obtained from the island’s own multi-water desalination plant. The luxury villas are built from recycled wood, clothes hooks are cast from used aluminium cans, and beef does not exist anywhere on the island due to the high CO2 consumption-or has to be ordered a day in advance by the guest. What cannot be avoided are the many tons of carbon dioxide produced by the guests’ air travel. Even the most sophisticated eco-concept cannot change this, but-and this also shows how serious the owners are about sustainability-the ‘Soneva’ has undertaken to compensate for the CO2 emissions caused: At the expense of the resort, 500,000 trees were planted in northern Thailand and 125,000 energy-efficient stoves were distributed to the people in Darfur.

IN TIMES OF THIS CLIMATE CRISIS, LUXURY TRAVEL HAS FALLEN INTO DISREPUTE. THE SONEVA FUSHI BEACH RESORT IN THE MALDIVES PROVES THAT LUXURY AND SUSTAINABILITY CAN WORK HAND IN HAND.

The story of the Soneva Fushi Beach Resort reads like a fairy tale: Once upon a time there was a young, rich couple on holiday in the Maldives. The new lovers liked it there so much that they wanted to have their own island with their own resort. So they rented a small island, and a few years later they opened the ‘Soneva Fushi’, one of the most expensive hotels in the world. In reality, the way to the opening in 1995 was of course also associated with hurdles and various setbacks, but the rest of the story can be left as it is. In 1990 Sonu Shivdasani-a Brit with Indian roots and then still a young Oxford student-travelled the Maldives with his wife Eva, a Swedish model. The island state in the Indian Ocean was not considered a luxury destination at the time, but the young couple liked it so much that they decided to create their own resort, designed according to their wishes: a retreat where luxury meets sustainability or, in Shivdasani’s words, where ‘intelligent luxury’ takes place.

NO NEWS, NO SHOES Now the green philosophy may be a big part of the charm and quality of this resort, but the uniqueness of the ‘Soneva’ depends on many other aspects. For example, superstar Madonna described the place as the ‘Definition of Heaven’. And many other celebrities have also lost their hearts to this UNESCO-protected biosphere reserve: Gwyneth Paltrow and her entire patchwork family regularly go on holiday here, the Beckhams, Paul McCartney, Guy Ritchie with his wife Jacqui and the children and recently Salma Hayek – the list of well-known names is long. No wonder when you consider the fact that Soneva Fushi offers total privacy. Each of the 57 villas, ranging in size from one to nine rooms, has its own private beach and is completely isolated from the other houses. Peace and quiet is not only appreciated by people in the limelight. Sonus and Eva’s vision was to create a place where guests could enjoy minimalist luxury and, above all, decompression. Those who land by seaplane will be welcomed by their personal

SUSTAINABILITY AS A SERIOUS CONCEPT Those who visit the ‘Soneva’ will be able to convince themselves with their own eyes that ‘Eco Friendly’ is not only a good selling point in keeping with the spirit of the times: there is also definitely no ‘green washing’ taking place here. On the contrary. The island has been completely plastic-free for more than ten years, 90 percent of the waste is recycled in the island’s own recycling center, 20 percent of the island’s electricity is generated from solar energy and 1.2 mil-

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butler and first liberated from their shoes, which then land in a bag labelled ‘No news, no shoes’. From this moment on, guests are walking barefoot, until their departure. A concept that, with very few exceptions, is highly appreciated by all guests. Anyone who enjoys a barefoot stay at Soneva will soon notice how liberating this seemingly small gesture can be. The constant contact with the earth and the fact that you don’t have to worry about which shoes to wear and which outfit to put on has an infinitely relaxing effect. Every guest has a bicycle at their disposal during their stay which they can use to move around the island, and because everyone is barefoot, the pedals are softly padded. It is this attention to detail that makes a stay here so invaluable. And so you spend one day after the other on this island without being exposed to any stress, because there is simply not a single reason to get agitated. The concept of rest and relaxation is also popular in the evenings, activities are not a big issue on Soneva Sushi, apart from the open-air cinema which includes a romantic starry sky, there are no elaborate guest entertainment shows and you are also left alone during the day. After all, that’s why you’re here, to finally switch off completely. Which happens in no time at all. THE WAY TO HIS OR HER HEART IS THROUGH THE STOMACH The ‘Soneva’ offers culinary delights in the form of several restaurants in addition to an in-house chef, who is mainly used by guests in the large villas. The newly opened ‘Out of the Blue’ was built on a platform above the sea and offers a breathtaking sea panorama in addition to delicious dishes; the ‘Fresh in the Garden’ proves to be a huge tree-house restaurant high above the dense banana trees with direct access to the observatory, which guarantees a breathtaking view of the starry sky. However, special attention is certainly paid to the recently launched dining concept ‘Shades of Green’, which offers a purely plant-based menu. What comes to your table here under the guidance of chef Jenever Espero will make every vegetarian and vegan heart beat faster. Before dinner, guests are offered a tour of the hotel’s own organic garden (where the restaurant is also located). ‘Chef Jenever’ brings you closer to the variety and fascinating world of various herbs and plants, allowing you to sniff, smell and, of course, taste. Without shoes, your feet firmly on the soft earth, in the midst of all these delicate natural treasures, you can’t help but feel grounded and relaxed. Escape the stress. And so it is exactly one of those moments when you feel so close to nature, so connected, where you recognize the real luxury of this resort: to be one with nature. Anyone who succeeds in taking this realisation home with them even after the exclusive pampering programme at ‘Soneva’ has actually experienced sustainable luxury. WWW.SONEVA.COM

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Time out in paradise: privacy is a top priority here.

BEST TRAVEL SEASON The weather in the Maldives is warm all year round. The dry season between November and April is considered to be the best time to travel, as there are no rain storms to worry about during these months. ACCOMMODATIONS The ‘Soneva Fushi’ is open all year round and has the largest kids club in the Maldives, which makes the resort very attractive for families. You can sail, surf or dive. Relax at the ‘Six Senses Spa’ or by participating in yoga and meditation classes at Turtle Beach Champa. INFO For entry from Switzerland, you need a passport that is valid for at least six months after the return date. A visa is not required. Since the Maldives are a Muslim island nation, the import of alcohol is prohibited.

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STYLISH OASES

Author_Martin Strohbeck Images_One&Only Resorts

ONE&ONLY ‘THE PALM’

Where the ‘One&Only’ is, is way out front-this simple expression best describes the One&Only ‘The Palm’. With only 90 rooms and suites, four extravagant beach villas and its unique location on Dubai’s artificial island The Palm Jumeirah, One&Only ‘The Palm’ is the leading resort in Dubai-despite renowned competition. An 850 square metre pool, its own marina and Moorish-Arab architecture make the boutique hotel a real jewel on the outskirts of Dubai. Beyond the hustle and bustle of the desert metropolis, One&Only The Palm with its exquisite restaurants, sophisticated bars and spacious Guerlain Spa is an oasis of peace and relaxation; the mainland with all its discoveries is easily accessible at all times thanks to private water taxis and limousines. And all the facilities and restaurants of the sister hotel One&Only ‘Royal Mirage’ can be easily shared. Anyone who claims that Dubai has no soul and is too artificial will be disabused at One&Only The Palm. In particular, this little luxury hideaway has a very special ‘cosy atmosphere’. And then on to One&Only ‘Reethi Rah’ on the Maldives-the perfect combination. Sample price in May 2020: three nights with half board in a Beach Premier room from 1,145 Euro per person.

WWW.STROHBECKREISEN.DE

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ONE&ONLY ‘LE SAINT GÉRAN’

Situated on an exclusive tropical peninsula, framed by the warm sea and an idyllic lagoon, the One&Only ‘Le Saint Géran’ has recently presented itself with a new look-a magnificent tribute to its unique location on Mauritius. Modern design with beach flair runs through the public and private areas. Typical island colours and almost invisible glass bring the breathtaking surroundings to the interior. The popular restaurants have been completely redesigned with contemporary furnishings, innovative show kitchens and terraces with stunning views. State-of-the-art new offers transform the beaches and gardens into wonderful playgrounds for relaxation and activity, such as yoga, Zumba, snorkeling or fly fishing. One of the best and most luxurious resorts on the island, which is not exactly lacking in luxury hotels. Those who love sports such as water skiing, tennis or fitness just as much as they love high quality evening entertainment, will feel perfectly at home in ‘Saint Géran’. Sample price in summer 2020: one week Oceanview room with half board and transfer from 2750 Euro per person.

WWW.STROHBECKREISEN.DE

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SOURCE OF REGENERATION

THE HEART OF THE GRAND RESORT BAD RAGAZ BEATS DEEP IN THE WILDLY ROMANTIC TAMINA GORGE. THE CREATION OF THIS OASIS OF RELAXATION IS BASED ON A CENTURIES-OLD TRADITION OF BATHING AND HEALING. THE RESULT IS A UNIQUE COMBINATION OF ITS OWN THERMAL SPRING IN COMBINATION WITH THE VARIETY ON OFFER OF A FIVE-STAR LUXURY RESORT.

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Author_Swenja Willms Images_Grand Resort Bad Ragaz AG

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According to tradition, in 1242 hunters from Pfäfers Monastery discovered a 36.5 degree celsius spring in the Tamina Gorge. The monks of the nearby Benedictine monastery recognized the healing effect of its water. This marked the beginning of the long history of Bad Pfäfers and later the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz. TRADITION MEETS MODERNITY Timeless elegance, purist design and stylish cosiness are the hallmarks of the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz’s four buildings. The ‘Grand Hotel Hof Ragaz’ embodies tradition and prestige. The world-renowned hotel offers five-star luxury in an ambience full of comfort. The ‘Spa Suites’ combine wellness and design. A private recreation oasis with its own thermal water awaits you here. The ‘Grand Hotel Quellenhof *****’ is the ‘Grande dame’ of the Swiss grand hotel industry. This traditional hotel celebrates its 150th anniversary and presents itself punctually after five months of complete renovation in new splendour and with a breath of fresh air. The perfect symbiosis between tradition and modernity, luxury and elegance, classicism and zeitgeist. The hotel accommodates a total of 98 suites in diverse luxury variations ranging from 50 square metres to 270 square metres.

RECOVERY AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL For almost 800 years, people have known about the special healing powers of the water that comes from the Tamina Gorge. In the hotel’s own thermal spa, as well as in the public Tamina Therme of the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, the 36.5 degree warm thermal water plays an important role-the most important. For the regener ation of body, mind and spirit, the mineral-poor water is still of special importance. The Tamina spring is considered to have the largest volume of water of an Akratho thermal spring in Europe. The water that springs forth from this source has diverse of health effects on the musculoskeletal system to diseases of the cardiovascular system, including a many types of disease. The generous sauna complex, numerous massage and beauty offers as well as a varied course and event programme complete the extensive recreation offer of the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz.

GASTRONOMIC DIVERSITY The Grand Resort Bad Ragaz is not only an ideal destination for all those who are looking for peace and relaxation. The culinary destination has also something for gourmets, from Swiss classics and healthy lifestyle cuisine to Far Eastern specialities and exceptional fine-dining experiences. Awarded a Michelin star and 48 Gault Millau points, the restaurants of the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz combine great passion for the product with the courage to be creative. Two restaurants are run by culinary director Sven Wassmer, who was awarded two Michelin stars in his previous restaurant. The health and lifestyle restaurant ‘verve by sven’ offers healthy wellness cuisine. The ‘Verve’ indicates an artistically creative lightness and symbolizes a generally positive and lively attitude to life. Many people still mistakenly associate healthy nutrition with renunciation. However, the cuisine of ‘verve by sven’ impressively proves that a conscious and healthy diet can be extremely delicious and also has a positive effect on inner well-being. To awaken memories and create new, lasting memories, this is what Sven Wassmer would like for the guests of his signature restaurant ‘Memories’. ‘Memories’ is a place of well-being, where the young top chef creates an authentic and naturally pleasing overall experience with his minimised interpretation of a new Alpine Swiss cuisine. In addition, there are six other restaurants that make a detour into Mediterranean, Swiss or Asian cuisine. It is well known that nutrition also contributes to complete regeneration.

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TRENDS by

PORSCHE DESIGN

The exclusive lifestyle brand Porsche Design and the ski manufacturer Elan are collaborating to launch a unique and ultra-modern alpine ski: the ‘Porsche Design Elan Amphibio’.

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MONCLER

The ‘Norah’ is a ladies’ après-ski boot inspired by snowboarding that gives the alpine look a high-tech feel. The design and details are reminiscent of sportswear, while the materials guarantee a level of performance that has made Moncler the brand of choice on snowcovered slopes.

TILA MARCH LOUIS VUITTON

Virgil Abloh presents the new classics of the men's leather goods line: four bags that reinvent the concept of leather goods by incorporating the bodies, movements and attitudes of contemporary masculinity.

Luggage tag made of 100 percent leather in red-white-blue design, inspired by the US-American flag. Made in France.

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Vakkaru Maldives Author_Urs Huebscher Images_Vakkaru Maldives

IT LIES WITHIN THE VASTNESS OF THE UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE IN THE BAA ATOLL – COMPLETELY ALONE IN THE TURQUOISE SHIMMERING OCEAN. AN ISLAND OF TIMELESS BEAUTY WITH WHITE POWDERED SUGAR BEACHES, INTACT NATURE AND VIEWS OVER THE SEA AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE. FOR A LASTING BREAK. HOLISTIC FOR BODY, MIND AND SPIRIT.

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access to the lagoon. The design concept of Vakkaru Maldives is a mix of contemporary design with modern and simple styling, based upon local architecture. The design concept runs through all areas: from the VIP lounge at Male Airport to the lobby on the island which is flooded with light, to the villas, restaurants, spa and through out all public areas. Here the focus is on natural materials, soft natural tones and textures. Green, turquoise or yellow reflect nature and set sophisticated accents. Wide panoramic windows, at floor level, open up the view to nature; literally bringing it inside. Most of the furniture, the atmospheric lighting and the wall design were specially designed for Vakkaru Maldives. The distinctly carved chairs and artistic wickerwork, which can be seen everywhere, are beautiful. The shape of the loungers by the pool, for example, is ingenious. You have views in all directions, be it the lush tropical vegetation of the island or the endless expanse of the sea. All accommodations have a spacious terrace and both indoor and outdoor showers. The exclusive amenities are purely natural. Discreetly integrated are the latest in comfort and technology, such as your own espresso machine, tea machine, WiFi, WLAN and an entertainment sound system.

This island paradise, only 1.6 square kilometres in size, is surrounded by a living reef with three blue holes of its own. Here and in many other areas around Vakkaru Maldives you will find numerous snorkelling and diving areas, which are still mostly undiscovered. The underwater world is as colourful as it is healthy. Therefore, Vakkaru is a perfect destination for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. During the development of the resort, which opened at the end of 2017, care was taken to keep nature as undisturbed as possible, therefore the architecture was carefully integrated. The island’s vegetation is lush and tropical, there are 2,300 coconut palms alone, which explains the name ‘Vakkaru’ meaning coconut wood. A personal butler looks after the well-being of the guests. Unobtrusive and charming. Typical for Maldives, the service is in principle very personal, but reserved. Guests should feel well cared for but completely relaxed and free, ‘barefoot luxury’. CONTEMPORARY DESIGN 113 exclusive villas and suites are spread out on the beach and into the sea. There are beach villas and suites such as the ‘Over Water Villas and Suites’. They are all very spacious, from 114 to 917 square meters, and also very private. Many have their own pool or direct

FOR COUPLES, FAMILIES AND HOLIDAYS WITH FRIENDS In principle, the respective architecture was adapted to the guests’ needs since Vakkaru Maldives is not only a dream location for couples or holidays with friends. The island also proves that the Maldives are a beautiful destination for families. There are villas and suites for couples who long for absolute privacy and want to be undisturbed, spacious villas for holidays with friends and those that are ideal for families, such as the Beach Pool Family Villa with its own children’s room and pool. Highlight-the Four Bedroom Overwater Pool Residence. At the end of the lagoon, completely undisturbed, perches the Four Bedroom Overwater Pool Residence, a two-storey property with a total area of 917 square meters. The pool alone measures 55 square meters. The wide sun terrace with its exclusive sun loungers extends far into the ocean. Exclusiveness is the private access to the local reef. This sanctuary offers space for four adults and four children, or for eight adults. There are spacious living and dining areas both inside and outside. A total of four bedrooms are available. The butler has his own kitchen. A CULINARY JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD Five restaurants and two bars offer culinary variety. The journey brings us around the world. Everywhere you will find that the ingredients are organic and fresh. At ‘Amaamy’, international creations are ingeniously combined with a Maldives twist. The ambience is bright and expansive, both indoor and out. Breakfast is also served here. The ‘Isolettaa’ is entirely geared to contemporary Italian cuisine for lunch and dinner. In an elegant fine dining atmosphere, the ‘Vakku’ seduces with delicious meat and fish creations. The exquisite wines from both the old and new world come from their own wine cellar, the ‘Vakkaru Reserve’, perfect for a private dinner or a tasting with the sommelier. The ‘Onu’ takes you on a journey through Asia, the garden atmosphere under coconut palms is very relaxed. Most of the ingredients come fresh and are hand-picked from the island plantation. Of interest is a tour with the chef followed by a cooking course.

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The ‘Lagoon Bar’ extends far into the ocean. Here creative cocktails and drinks seduce. The fresh sushi and sashimi are delicious. ‘Cabbana’ is the casual al fresco pool lounge, a place for after sunbathing or equally, for a night cap. Everywhere on the island picnics and candlelight dinners are arranged, according to the individual wishes of the guests. WELL-BEING AT MERANA SPA The Merana Spa is the oasis for holistic well-being, surrounded by the azure blue waters of the ocean. There are a total of twelve treatment rooms, including eight rooms for two people allowing for completely undisturbed pleasure. Floating on the water, as you can see through the glass floor, and wide panorama windows provide an unimpaired view of the ocean. The private sun deck is ideal for relaxing and enjoying oneself after a soothing treatment. These treatments are holistic and inspired by ancient, traditional rituals. Only purely natural products, such as coconut, are used. The Signature treatment is completely based upon this island’s nut and everything is used-from the shell to the milk to the flesh. The wellness area also has to offer a nail studio, hairdresser, sauna, steam bath, whirlpool and cold plunge pool. The spacious lounge extends into the sea and is ideal for tranquil moments. Not far from the spa is the overwater gym, equipped with the latest equipment. A personal trainer is available on request. There is also a yoga area. A nice start to the day is the morning yoga session.

repertoire of games and entertainment can be found in the Coconut Club with its own coffee lounge and library. The all-weather tennis courts and the badminton court are rare in the Maldives. Cinema evenings under the stars regularly enchant you. The presentations by the island’s marine biologist are of lasting interest. FUN AND GAMES FOR THE NEXT GENERATION Who says that the Maldives is not a destination for holidays with children? On Vakkaru Maldives they are in good hands and the activities are exciting according to their age. The care is lovingly professional so parents can confidently place their offspring into their safe-keeping.

RELAXED OR ACTIVE On Vakkaru Maldives both are possible, absolute relaxation or active pleasure. The Splash Water Sports & Dive Center offers a wide range of water sports activities: snorkelling, jet skiing, kayaking, adventure tours and expeditions to other islands. The ‘Padi’ Dive Center offers courses from beginners to advanced divers. A large

SUSTAINABILITY AND ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION Vakkaru Maldives attaches great importance to sustainability and environmental protection. Many ‘green projects’ are being implemented. From water treatment to the preparation of the company’s own mineral water (sparkling or still in recyclable glass bottles), waste management (composting, recycling) and sustainable purchasing (regional and fresh). Vakkaru Maldives in the Baa Atoll is completely secluded and reclusive. The journey from Malé International Airport is nevertheless short, a mere 25 minutes by seaplane. However, the arrival is the first highlight, whether by air or water. It is impressive to admire the island world in the shimmering ocean. WWW.VAKKARUMALDIVES.COM

bmc-switzerland.com/alpenchallengeampcity

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WAT CHES & JEW ELLERY

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

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IN DISCUSSION:

RICARDO GUADALUPE Author_Gisbert L. Brunner Images_Hublot

HUBLOT, FOUNDED IN 1980 BY CARLO CROCCO, CAN LOOK BACK ON A RELATIVELY SHORT BUT EXCITING HISTORY. IN 2004, THE WATCH BRAND STOOD CLOSE TO THE ABYSS. THEN IN CAME JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER. THE CHARISMATIC MANAGER DEVELOPED THE SUCCESSFUL FUSION CONCEPT, INITIATED THE CREATION OF THE BIG BANG ICON, AND BROUGHT RICARDO GUADALUPE ON BOARD. BORN IN 1965, GUADALUPE HAS BEEN AN INDISPENSABLE PARTNER, PRIMARILY IN THE BACKGROUND, UNTIL 2012. AT THAT TIME HE WAS PROMOTED TO HUBLOT CEO. SINCE THEN, THE MAN WITH SPANISH ROOTS HAS BEEN DIRECTING THE DESTINY OF THE WATCH MANUFACTORY UNDER THE UMBRELLA OF THE LVHM GROUP. BY THE WAY, THE COMPANY DOESN’T KNOW THE WORD DEBT. HUBLOT FINANCES ITSELF ENTIRELY FROM ITS OWN CASH FLOW.

PRESTIGE: Congratulations on your new top ranking. In the summer of 2019, the Swiss bank Vontobel ranked Hublot among the top five brands over 10,000 euros and among the top ten in general. RICARDO GUADALUPE: When I heard about it, it really made me happy. That’s on account of you, isn’t it? I don’t want to be immodest, but a part of it goes back to my work. Vontobel reports annual sales of 700 million Swiss francs … … we don’t officially release numbers, but Vontobel is not so far off. In 2004, you generated annual sales of 24 million. If things continue like this, the billion mark will eventually be reached. Internally we have a mission which we call the road to a billion. Our plan is to achieve this goal in five to seven years. Primarily due to our Chinese customers. We achieved most of our growth in China itself and with Chinese customers. We have worked hard for more than ten years to promote the Hublot brand and have invested heavily in our own boutiques. Now we can see the results of our work. How much does the Chinese market contribute to Hublot’s sales? In the greater China area, including Hong Kong and Macao, we will probably reach 13 percent this year. Our Chinese customers

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

worldwide, account for 20 to 22 percent. If we look at Swiss watch exports as a whole on the other hand, about half of them are sold to Chinese customers. Hublot therefore has considerable growth potential, so 40 percent is by no means unrealistic. Hublot’s success story also includes housing materials. I don’t know of any other brand that offers such variety. How far in advance do you think and plan ahead regarding new materials? That’s five, sometimes even ten years, until a new material is ready for use. We currently have numerous projects underway, some of them are easier to realise, others are much more difficult. And some of them, in the end, can’t be actualised at all. If I would make a rough estimate, I’d say we currently have 30 to 40 projects underway. The stage of development in each is of course quite different. Some, for example, refer to ceramics and therefore also new colors. We are thinking here of orange or yellow tones. New metal alloys are also a focus. As far as I know, after the unique Magic Gold, there is now Magic Aluminium and Magic Platinum in the pipeline. That’s right. But until there are watches with such cases, there is still a lot to do.

BIG BANG UNICO CERAMIC MAGIC GOLD

Magic Gold is unique and totally scratch resistant. Why are there so few watches made of this material? This is due to the elaborate manufacturing process. Currently, we can only produce around twenty cases a month. Who buys a Magic Gold watch? People who want to distinguish themselves? The material looks different and certainly appeals to people who think differently. We also have watches with parts made of traditional gold alloys in our collection. Personally, I am surprised by parts of our Chinese clientele. They want something different and that’s why they amazingly love Magic Gold. The distinction is very good. Will there be a Classic Fusion of Magic Gold one day? I hope so. We are certainly working on it. But the case of the Classic Fusion with its more rounded edges is much more difficult to realize in terms of the correct surface. But we’re in the process. Our research and development department has many projects. That’s one of them. The Classic Fusion line is enjoying increasing popularity if I’m not mistaken. In terms of units, the Classic Fusion now accounts for 55 percent of our sales. In terms of value, the Big Bang is still ahead because of the higher average price. Classic Fusion provides for people who like Hublot, and like what we do, an entry level into our world. Does that make you happy? Why not? The Classic Fusion is a more commercial product than the Big Bang, positioned in an entry-level price range. There’s nothing you can do about it. But our network extends more to projects such as Ferrari, Sang Bleu, Richard Orlinski and on top of that in spring 2019, Garage Italia.

BIG BANG MECA-10 10-DAY POWER RESERVE MAGIC GOLD 75

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Speaking of Garage Italia. That’s your watch baby, too. Specifically, the idea came from Lapo Elkann, with whom Hublot has been working for a long time. The proposal to create a new type of wristwatch immediately fascinated me. Garage Italia deals with boats, airplanes and of course cars. In this respect, the concept of realising sea, sky and earth in projects is quite obvious. It brings inspiration for the future.

sary technologies and machines, specifically laser, polishing and ultrasonic machines. The colorless Big Bang sapphires of 2016 were followed by cases made of colored sapphire from 2017. What proportion of sapphire cases does Hublot generate in-house? Together with another company, we have expanded our capacities for industrialized production and can do a considerable proportion ourselves. In general, we have extensive experience in dealing with hard materials. But sapphire requires very special know-how.

Hublot often limits its watches to 250 pieces. In this case it was only 100. Why so few? This is due to the concept. First, we wanted to find out how far we could go here. It is undoubtedly a beautiful watch. But the colouring also polarises. The light lapo-blue does not appeal to everyone. So we decided to start with something exclusive in a small edition. In the future, we will feature other products and then we will see further. Of course, this blue can also be used for other watches.

What one hears is that Hublot watches with sapphire cases are very successful … We are talking about a quite expensive product, above the 50,000 Euro. Included within this price range is the Big Bang Sapphire which has been incredibly successful. Compared to other products on the market, however, the price is very reasonable. This is only possible because Hublot uses a modular housing design for the Big Bang. All external parts are made of sapphire, but inside there is still the well-known container for the movement. In this case, it is made of transparent synthetic resin. We can easily do such a thing because nobody comes into contact with it. So the high innovation factor lies in the design of the housing.

For Garage Italia, with its unusual colour concepts, there is basically only one partner to consider, and that is Hublot. That’s the way I see it, because ceramics in this colour spectrum really only bring us together. Hublot has developed considerable expertise in the materials sector in recent years. How long did it take to get this watch up and running? If I’m honest, it went relatively quickly. Blue ceramic is by far not as demanding as red. The red for the Ferrari models kept us busy for a much longer time, because this colour is incredibly complicated. Looking back, we’re talking about a year to create this special sky blue for the bezel and the dark blue centre part of the case.

For more than two years now, you have been the boss of what you call a very agile watch brand. To be successful, we have to be constantly creative and innovative. And not only with the product itself, but at all other levels as well. This is one of the reasons why Hublot invests a lot of money in product development. In movements, in new materials and, of course, in design. Needless to say, all activities are happening around the clock. All our partnerships, among others, with Ferrari, with football …

How important are colours for high-ranking watches, such as those produced by Hublot? Women attach great importance to the colours. Some brands don’t have the courage. We are successful. Men also want colours. But in a different way. Women who already have everything often regard watches as accessories that must go with a bag or clothing. Such customers, of course, don’t just have a watch. Rather, they own 20 or 50. The much greater challenge is to sell a woman the first watch. This is much more strenuous than selling a high-quality watch to a man.

How many partnerships are we talking about at the moment? (laughs) So many, so many … So virtually countless partnerships? Yes. Really a lot. But we maintain two main pillars. And that’s football and Ferrari. That’s where two thirds of our budget goes.

How does Hublot generally view the female sex? Can you tell us how much of a share? About 23 percent, but with an upward trend.

Have I misheard? Two thirds? Yes, but the sponsoring budget, not the marketing budget. In addition, of course, we also have to reach our clientele via other platforms. Music in particular, so we also invest there to appeal to the younger generation. Think of Depeche Mode, for example.

But it could be more, right? Many women wear men’s watches. I can’t measure that. I count what I attribute to the ladies’ sector. This also includes the diameter. For me, ladies wear up to 41 millimetres, but some ladies may wear larger sizes. On the other hand, there are men who wear 41 millimeter watches.

The cooperation with Depeche Mode has been going on for about ten years now. What makes this partnership so important for Hublot? It was and is about entering other worlds and staying in them. The world of music is very important to us. It appeals to millions of people. There, too, we can and want to communicate the Hublot brand and its values. Depeche Mode is a very important ambassador for us in the field of music.

Sapphire is becoming increasingly important for your case materials. Sapphire has been known for decades. But Hublot has a certain unique selling point because we can produce sapphire cases in larger quantities. To this end, we invest large sums in the neces-

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

CF AERO CHRONO ORLINSKI GREEN CERAMIC 45

CLASSIC FUSION ORLINSKI TITANIUM

CF AERO CHRONO ORLINSKI RED CERAMIC

SPIRIT OF BIG BANG BLUE SAPPHIRE

BIG BANG PINK SAPPHIRE DIAMONDS

SPIRIT OF BIG BANG YELLOW SAPPHIRE

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CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH JUVENTUS CERAMIC CARBON

What did you think when you first met the members of the band? That was during the opening of our boutique in Prague. I quickly realized that this could be an important partnership for both sides, with the result being a fruitful win-win situation.

their charity, the water campaign, brought in more than three million dollars overall and provided more than 60,000 people with drinking water. How much does your partnerships with Ferrari and football contribute to sales? We only create a few watches for football. For us, our relationship with football is more about promoting brand awareness.

You have sponsored two tours so far. What is the result from Hublot’s point of view? I would describe it as a great success.

But it still boosts sales … … of course, but that can’t really be measured. On the other hand, as a matter of course, we have a few special models for this popular sport.

Do people who hear Depeche Mode have a relationship with Hublot watches? Not everyone, of course, but many do. And that’s what makes this partnership so appealing. The cooperation brings Depeche Mode fans to Hublot and in return Hublot fans to this band and their music. We are addressing a generation that is enthusiastic about Depeche Mode and for whom Hublot is also of interest.

What is your personal feeling regarding Hublot and football? Football has significantly raised Hublot’s profile. When people hear Hublot today, that tells them something, they associate the name with watches. But we’re also aware that 90 to 95 percent of these people can’t afford Hublot. But that doesn’t matter at all. We firmly believe that it is very important to consistently build our brand. People should associate Hublot with watches and not with a bank or any food.

How did the public react to the limited editions which were created in conjunction with Depeche Mode? When I say that all watches are completely sold out, that speaks for itself. So both sides were and are completely satisfied with what we have achieved together so far. Our commitment to

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

With Ferrari it probably looks different … That’s true. Here we see more potential customers, which is why the creation of our own watches is definitely worthwhile. Every year we sell two or three thousand watches together with Ferrari. In terms of sales, this amounts to seven to eight percent. This is measurable and a great success. In contrast to other brands that previously cooperated with Ferrari, we are able to sell numerous watches to owners of these cars. Hublot has become a truly established brand. People with your watches on their wrists can now be seen almost everywhere. The success of a brand is actually reflected in the fact that the watches are worn. In this sense we see many Rolex, many Royal Oak, some Patek Philippe and Hublots. We belong to the four or maybe five brands that are selling well at the moment. For the others, it is more strenuous and challenging for them to hold their own. You are an integral part of this 15-year success story initiated by Jean-Claude Biver. How do you see yourself and your role in it? My role was to make things possible. Jean-Claude is a brilliant person. I think of his vision, his concepts and all the ideas he constantly develops. Every second an idea I would say. I complement that, because I take care of the practical implementation. I make it happen. You can have the best ideas, but if you don’t succeed in turning them into reality, everything is somehow useless. In my opinion, I was the person who took up the ideas and translated them into watches, their production, marketing and sales strategies. I made things happen at Hublot. I am firmly convinced of that.

CLASSIC FUSION CHRONOGRAPH UEFA CHAMPIONS LEAGUE

Now you’re both in one person. From now on you must also provide the inspiration. Absolutely right … … and put it into action. Exactly. But I operate from a good base. In 2004 there was a vision from which we at Hublot still draw today. And there is no reason to reject this vision, and we don’t have to reinvent it either. The art of fusion lives. And it will continue to do so in the future. Such a proven platform helps tremendously. Always be unique, different and constantly be the first in everything we do, to present disruptive innovations in the market. All these philosophies were really implemented by Jean-Claude Biver. And I must confess that this helps. But of course you always have to put forward new ideas into the world. For example, the aforementioned commitment to music or art and so on. Those were more my ideas, which of course follow the traditional philosophy. When you look back on 15 years at Hublot, is there anything you are personally, particularly proud of ? If you ask me that, I’d have to mention the Big Bang. I was instrumental in its creation. The beginnings of the product were a key element, and I think my contribution was to make this wristwatch with all its details a reality. Together with Mijat? Yes, yes, but Mijat, as product designer, was only part of it. In the beginning he delivered a design. And I wasn’t one hundred

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BIG BANG FERRARI CARBON RED CERAMIC

BIG BANG SCUDERIA FERRARI 90TH ANNIVERSARY PLATINUM

TECHFRAME FERRARI TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH SAPPHIRE WHITE GOLD

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

So, has the collaboration with major artists and designers a future at Hublot. I think so, yes. Our customers are waiting for something like this. Once more they want and will get something different. They get a work of art on their wrists. But I’m also sure that other brands will follow. But that doesn’t matter, because once again we are the leaders. To sum up, I would like to say that it is always important to be inspired by other fields and not just by the watch scene. Hublot loves design, and Hublot loves art. Do you personally love art and design as well? I like contemporary art and I have some at home. I own works of art from the artists Hublot cooperates with. After all, we also select our partners according to their art.

percent convinced of it. The drafts needed to be improved in a number of ways. We had to revise many things and make them practical. As you know, it’s all about the details. And to this day we continue to work consistently together. That’s why I can really speak of considerable participation. At the very beginning my work consisted one hundred percent in product development. The result is the Big Bang, which today is rightly regarded as an icon of our industry.

Then you must have an Orlinski, too. Yes, I have a Panther and a small Kong. And something from Carlos Cruz-Diez. Romero Britto painted a picture especially for me in connection with the World Cup in Brazil. There is also something about Thierry Guetta, known as Mr. Brainwash. Just to mention a few works of art.

Which Big Bang is actually the most successful of all the testi monials that have emerged over the years? It is the ceramic model created in 2005. Even after this length a time it is still our bestseller. The number one in sales.

And your house was designed by? The design is very special, because the house is made of concrete. Some people say it’s a bunker (laughs). But I have to admit, it looks a bit like one. I wanted something different, something special. Not classic. Hence all concrete. Yes, from the outside the association with a bunker is not far off. But inside it’s very modern, and also very pretty.

So a real classic … … yes. Created for people who want to enter the world of Hublot. This chronograph is in an affordable price range and perfectly represents our brand. The artist Richard Orlinski brought a breath of fresh air to the Hublot scene. That’s fantastic, too. Borrowing from the art world for a watch is something great. The product looks unbelievably good and is a tremendous commercial success. Do you remember the first time you met Richard? As if it had been yesterday. I said to him: Let’s produce 200 watches as a first edition. Then we’ll see. I mean, you were a little skeptical … … I’d say careful. Richard, on the other hand, was naturally convinced of the success of the cooperation. He was right. In the meantime we have reached at least ten editions and 2000 watches.

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TIMELESS GLAMOUR Author_Swenja Willms Images_Harry Winston

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

Throughout his career, Harry Winston believed that diamonds, thanks to their natural brilliance, should determine the design of jewelry. This philosophy takes us back to the early beginnings of the traditional house.

On a December night in the 1940s, Harry Winston suddenly stopped and stared at a decorative holly wreath hanging at the door of his Scarsdale estate. It was the way the twigs glistened in the light of the fresh winter snow that deeply fascinated him. The interwoven leaves formed a wintery design of incomparable beauty as the branches of the wreath faded into the background. It was at this moment that Harry Winston came to his historical realization: gemstones, not their settings, were to determine the design of his jewel creations. This prompted Winston and his chief designer Nevdon Koumrouyan to revolutionize the modern design of fine jewellery by introducing a signature design technique known as clustering. Nevdon Koumrouyan, a successful and talented artist, was known for his elegant, painterly style, which perfectly accentuated the beauty inherent in every exceptional gemstone. His hands created the houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most legendary motif and sealed an unparalleled legacy. In February 2018, Harry Winston expanded his cluster collection with accents of emeralds, rubies and sapphires. With the most extraordinary gemstones at the top, the new Winston Cluster creations interpret an iconic motif that transforms precious jewellery into three-dimensional clusters full of brilliance in an entirely new way.

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JEWEL LERY

HARRY WINSTON

Hidden beneath the exquisite exterior composition of the ‘Ultimate Emerald Signature’ is a precious watch with a full diamond pavé dial. A testament to the art of diamond setting, this exceptional creation required more than 100 hours of work to complete.

MIKIMOTO

Bracelet with aquamarines (2.40~2.66 carat), diamonds (7.17 carat) and white South Sea cultured pearls.

BEYER

Earring in white gold consisting of two Paraiba tourmalines (total 3.13 carats) and 54 brilliantcut diamonds (0.51 carats).

TR EN DS by

BULGARI

‘Secret watch Serpenti Misteriosi’ with quartz movement in 18 carat white gold. The bracelet and dial are set with blue sapphires, marquise and brilliant cut diamonds.

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WATCHES & JEWELLERY

WRIST WATCHES Author_Gisbert L. Brunner

for voyeurs of the mechanism LOVERS OF MECHANICAL WRISTWATCHES ALSO POSSESS A GOOD DEAL OF CURIOSITY. THEY HAVE A BURNING INTEREST HOW TIME IS BEING KEPT ON THEIR WRISTS. THE WATCH INDUSTRY SATISFIES THIS THIRST FOR KNOWLEDGE WITH SKELETONIZED MOVEMENTS, OPEN DIALS OR FRONT-MOUNTED MECHANISMS. CONSEQUENTLY, WRISTWATCHES WHICH ARE SEE-THROUGH OR HAVE A VIEW INSIDE LEAVE ONLY A FEW WISHES UNFULFILLED.

Sometimes a crisis also has a positive side. This happened in the early 1930s, when a severe crisis had a massive impact on the global economy. The consequences were also felt in Switzerland. Business with fine timepieces collapsed almost overnight. While contemplating the future, resourceful watchmakers came across seemingly forgotten craftsmanship from the 18th century. This refers to the skeletonization of ticking microcosms. First, craftsmen use a fine needle to mark all the outlines of the superfluous material. After drilling fine holes, they remove this with a fine fretsaw. Further steps are the chamfering of the edges and the engraving on the surfaces. Skilful manual work is not only shown in the carefully worked out angles, but also in the perfect congruence of superimposed parts. The strength of the supporting parts, i.e. the plate, bridges and cock, must not suffer under any circumstances from the lightness of the skeletal structure. This is the only way to guarantee flawless function over decades. Consequently, perfect skeletonizing requires more than just manual skills. No less important is precise knowledge of the power flow in the fine gears. Ticking movements require just one billionth of a horsepower to perform their time-keeping tasks. Therefore, the laws of mechanics cannot and must not be neglected under any circumstances.

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TOP LEFT Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre TOP RIGHT Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton LOWER LEFT Chanel LOWER RIGHT ROGER DUBUIS Excalibur Skelett Automatik

WATCHES & JEWELLERY

mic. The wristwatch, limited to 55 pieces, withstands the pressure of the wet element up to three bar. Girard-Perregaux has omitted anything that might be superfluous in the GP09400-1035 calibre with a microrotor selfwinding mechanism. A total of 80 parts of the filigree titanium tourbillon weigh only 0.25 grams. The mainspring barrel mounted under the upper bridge stores power for at least 60 hours of autonomy. Each of the openworked complete artworks found within the ‘Quasar’ are composed of 260 components. The completely transparent sapphire case, which is pressure-tight to three bar and has a diameter of 45 millimeters, allows the functional interaction to be observed from all perspectives. The new caliber 115 from Oris represents contemporary manufactory mechanics with plenty of perspective. Stability, reliability and precision are the main features in the construction of the hand-wound movement with ten days of autonomy and three hertz balance frequencies. The design of the entire ‘Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115’ is based on a formal balance between movement and case. The intended references to flying result from the corrugated raised dial inside the 44 millimetre titanium case with its stealth character and from its glass edge. The water density reaches up to 100 metres diving depth. Manufacture movements in openworked construction belong to the significant trademarks of Roger Dubuis. The ultralight carbon case of the 45 mm ‘Excalibur Automatic Skeleton’ contains the 820SQ self-winding calibre with a microrotor. It consists of a total of 166 components and, when fully wound, its regulator oscillates at four hertz for around 60 hours. Because this bolide has been awarded the Geneva Seal of Quality, the maximum weekly gear deviation must not exceed one minute. The rubber strap has a comfortable folding clasp. One of the special features of the skeleton hand-wound calibre 4805 SK in the Zenith ‘Fusée Tourbillon’ is a traditional chain-screw system. This system stabilizes the torque of the driving force transmitted from the mainspring barrel to the gear train. From 807 individual parts, experienced watchmakers assemble the 37-millimetre microcosm with minute tourbillon and a fast five-hertz balance frequency. Of these, 575 are accounted for by the wafer-thin, 18-centimetre-long chain alone. A small hand between ‘4’ and ‘5’ acts as a power reserve indicator. The carbon-cased version is produced in 50 copies.

It was Paul-Jules Audemars who, in 1934, for lack of other work, skeletonized a 17-line movement with his own hands, thereby triggering a trend. The intricate ‘Jules Audemars Tourbillon Openworked’ by Audemars Piguet recalls this achievement. For a perfect view, its platinum case has sapphire crystals on the front and back. They show the automatic caliber 2875 with a minute tourbillon assembled from 268 components. In the fine bogie, the balance oscillates at three hertz. After full winding, 54 hours of autonomy are available. The remaining energy is provided by a kind of fuel gauge. In technical terms it is called a power reserve indicator. In the suburb of Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers demonstrate their artistry. Traditional skeletonisation and decoration techniques, all of which are done manually, lead to the ‘Traditionnelle Automatik extra-flat skeleton’. Its 38 millimetre white gold case measures 6.82 millimetres thick. This is made possible by the ultra-flat automatic caliber 1120 SQ. Its history goes back to 1967, when it was only 2.45 millimetres thick without a date display. 144 components are required for a model with a central rotor. Its winding efficiency is enhanced by an external solid gold segment.

MODERN SKELETONS

The computer age has not only given the subject of skeletonization impulses, but also wings. Contemporary design and manufacturing technologies enable remarkable alternatives. In other words, movements take on their openworked form as early as the development stage and during the subsequent manufacturing process. The skeletons are milled, embossed or otherwise produced in more or less automated processes. Of course, this does not change the function. The fact that machines have taken over manual work becomes quickly apparent when looking through the magnifying glass. On the other hand, modernity is reflected in lower prices and that’s exactly what many mechanical aficionados find so convenient. Since 2014, Bulgari has been demonstrating its mechanical expertise with slim movements. An impressive example is the ‘Octo Finissimo Skeleton’. Its perforated and machine-made BVL 128SK calibre manual winding movement is just 2.35 millimetres thick. Its diameter is 36 millimetres. The energy stored in a barrel lasts up to 65 hours. An indication of the state of the remaining stocks is given at ‘9’. The 40 millimetre casing with sapphire crystals in the front and back and the link band are made of lightweight, anti-allergic ceramic. The Cartier ‘Tonneau Dual Time Zone Squelette’ is aimed those with a cosmopolitan lifestyle. Separate pairs of hands represent different zone times, even those that only differ from each other by half or quarter hours. The independent setting and adjustment is carried out with the aid of two crowns. The 52.4 millimetre long and 29.8 mm wide platinum case uses the skeleton calibre 9919 developed and manufactured in-house. Its two tension springs must be manually wound after 60 hours at the latest. In the ‘south’, the balance wheel vibrates 28,800 times an hour. The new ‘Boy-Friend Skeleton Édition Noire’ by Chanel is black, but still highly transparent. The barrel of the black-coated ‘Calibre 3’, positioned at ‘12’, has to be replenished with potential energy by hand. After full winding, the reserves last about 55 hours. The case measures 28.6 x 37 millimetres and is made of stainless steel, while the front edge of the glass is made of cera-

WATCHES WITH A VIEW

Visible display backs are part of what’s so special about modern wristwatches. However, if you would want to take a look for yourself or show others what’s going on inside the case, you’d have to take this timepiece with its visible display back off your wrist. In 1986, the launch of the tourbillon series was accompanied by a change in thinking. As a rule, the intricate rotary gear was shown through a dial cut-out. A few years later, when the normal balance also oscillated in a small peephole, more and more product designers discovered the charm of openworked dials. The normally unattractive front side of the movement was presented in these dials. However, watchmakers are a creative lot by nature so for this reason, they shifted a more or less large part of the fascinating mechanics to the front. In this way, they can show watch lovers the complications they built-in, or simply the ticking that continues to represent the heartbeat of human culture in the 21st century.

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A. Lange & Söhne will produce 200 copies of the ‘Datograph Auf / Ab Lumen’ (‘Datograph Lumen Up / Down’) with platinum casing. Thanks to a semi-transparent dial that allows UV charging light to pass through during the day and the use of a special phosphorescent material, all indicators can be read even in the dark. The outsize date is particularly impressive. Its ‘tens cross’ is coated with bright luminous material, which carries high-contrast black numerals. In contrast, the glass sapphire crystal single-piece disc of manufacture calibre L951.7, also printed with black numerals, rotates against a static noctilucent background. Strictly speaking, the manufacture caliber ARF17 in the oval sapphire case of the Armin Strom ‘Dual Time Resonance Sapphire’ consists of two movements arranged side by side. Each has two energy stores and 110 hours of autonomy. A patented and certified resonance clutch spring connects the oscillating systems oscillating at ‘12’ with an unusual 3.5 hertz. This type of coupling results in 15 to 20 percent higher accuracy. As can easily be seen, the construction also has two separate and independently adjustable time displays. Carl F. Bucherer takes its peripheral system to the extreme with the 43 millimetre ‘Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral’. In addition to the hubless outer rotor with solid gold flywheel mass, the minute tourbillon visible at ‘12’ also features peripheral bearings. Three ceramic ball bearings hold the bogie in position. The anchor and escape wheel of the CFB T3000 manufactory calibre are made of silicon, which performs its tasks perfectly even without oil. The official COSC chronometer certificate, which accompanies each of these wristwatches, is official proof of the impeccable function and precise movement of the automatic movement with 65 hours of autonomy. The white-golden ‘Balancier Contemporain’ by Greubel Forsey is dedicated solely to time. Its continuous passing is demonstrated by the oscillations of the virtually majestic 12.6 millimetre glucydur balance with three hertz frequencies and variable inertia. A balance stop allows the hand to be set to the second. After 72 hours at the latest, the 255-piece movement must be supplied with energy by turning the crown a few times. The power reserve indicator at ‘12’ indicates when the time has come. The case protects this elegant and attractive mechanism against being destroyed by water up to three bar pressure. In the ‘Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel’ with its 43-millimetre white gold case and manufacture hand-wound calibre 184, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been able to further reduce the mass of the three-dimensional rotary movement. A constant force drive counteracts the continuously decreasing torque of the energy accumulator. The range of complications also includes a perpetual calendar with date (jumping), day of the week, month and year. At the touch of a button, the minute repeater starts to work. At the quarter-hour it chimes like Westminster in London. The Heuer ‘Carrera’ is undoubtedly one of the most recognized style icons in watch history. The ‘Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic’ is currently following in the footsteps of the chronograph created in 1963. In contrast to the past, the 45 millimetre ceramic case houses an automatic movement developed and produced in-house. ‘Heuer 02’ is the name of the mechanism with its classic V-shaped hands and permanent second, integrated stopper control, vertical clutch, rotor winding mechanism and 80 hours of autonomy. A single screw is all it takes to assemble the chronographic rear derailleur. The open designed dial meets the needs of curious time lovers.

‘UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE STRENGTH OF THE LOADBEARING PARTS SUFFER FROM THE LIGHTNESS OF THE SKELETAL STRUCTURE’.

WATCHES & JEWELLERY TOP LEFT Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon TOP RIGHT A. Lange & Sรถhne LOWER LEFT TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer Carbon LOWER RIGHT Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain

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A LITTLE BIT OF LUCK When the family business, Beyer Watches and Jewelery, started selling antique and vintage watches in 1965, it was a completely new product on the market. Once again, Beyer proved its pioneering spirit. In the meantime, others began doing the same, however, there is not a comparable watch business which has as much experience and know-how. Antique watches are historically relevant models that must be at least 99 years old to be considered as such. Vintage watches, on the other hand, deserve this designation when they are at least 25 years old while having retained their original value, or ocassionally, even having a value higher than the original purchase price. Trouvaille watches are models that are up to about 25 years old and are much sought after. Ursula Junger, a Trouvaille watch specialist at Beyer, explains that Beyer has a significant advantage: ‘The watch which you would like to sell is competently and carefully assessed by us and we reach a fair price together. If you wish it can be paid out in cash or credited towards the purchase of a new watch. In addition, we also buy models from selected brands that we do not otherwise have in our assortment’. When asked what is currently trending in the trouvaille watch sector, Junger replies: ‘It is still models in yellow gold, but recently we have also noticed an increased demand for rosé gold. Presumably, a sign of rediscovered romanticism’. Beyer sells around 200 second-hand watches every year, which includes a certificate of authenticity. However, the real beauty of these watches are the stories behind them. For instance, the charming older woman who suddenly couldn't read the numbers on her beloved Cartier model so she sold this fine piece and bought a new Rolex. With significantly larger numbers, of course. Or the gentleman who sold a watch after travelling the world with it for many years and now found that this chapter of his life had come to an end and that it was time for a new, different watch. ‘Trust is immensely important when buying new watches and but it is even more consequential in regards second-hand models,’ says Junger. Therefore, a key word. As a Beyer customer, you can be sure that all watches are guaranteed to be genuine, tested and carefully renovated, either in-house or in the original manufactory. This creates a classic win-win situation, the seller is satisfied and the customer is happy, so both sides are delighted. And a stroke of luck for everyone.

Author_Beatrice Schönhaus Images_Beyer Uhren & Juwelen

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Beyer Watches and Jewellery has an exciting history. What many do not know: Beyer Chronometrie is the first and oldest watch shop in Switzerland, located at Bahnhofstrasse 31 in Zurich. The family business was founded in 1760 and has always been handed over from father to son. All trained watchmakers. As well as RenĂŠ Beyer, who is now in the eighth generation of Beyer Chronometrie. Their portfolio includes twelve premier watch brands including their attractively priced Beyer watch line as well as antique timepieces and trouvaille watches. In addition, the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own studio produces very exclusive jewellery. The basement of the establishment also houses one of the most important watch collections in the world: the Beyer Clock and Watch Museum brings together 300 exhibits dating from 1400 B.C. to the present day.

WWW.BEYER-CH.COM / TROUVAILLEN

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THE BRITISH CAR LEGEND Author_Lone K.â&#x20AC;&#x2030;Halvorsen Images_Aston Martin

ASTON MARTIN DB5 95

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IT CAME WITH MACHINE GUNS BEHIND THE TURN SIGNALS, ROTATING LICENSE PLATES, EJECTION SEAT, TYRE SLASHERS AND AN EXTENDABLE BULLET PROOF SHIELD – T HE DB5 WAS A RAGING FORTRESS AND AT THE SAME TIME APPROVED FOR ROAD TRAFFIC.

When listing such gadgets, every car lover will inevitably think of James Bond and his Aston Martin DB5, in silver birch. In the movie ‘Goldfinger’ a DB5 appeared for the first time as the official car at Sean Connery’s side – for many this car was the secret star of the movie. One can rightly claim that no other car has ever written such film history, and at the same time, been so wronged, having never been nominated for an Oscar. Nevertheless, the DB5’s 007 appearance was legendary, and the Aston Martin brand still draws on the publicity boost of that time.

went their separate ways, but from then on Mr. Martin successfully dedicated himself to the construction of exquisite racing cars for the road, which could also successfully survive in motor sport. However, a few years would pass before the DB5 saw the light of day.

IN HER MAJESTY’S SERVICE

In 1963, the Aston Martin DB5 was presented and frenetically welcomed at the Earls Court Motor Show in London. The design was similar to its predecessor DB4, but the DB5 had much more to offer. With three double carburettors, an in-line sixcylinder engine with four litres capacity and 314 HP that achieved an acceleration from zero to 100 km / h in eight seconds, not to mention a top speed of 233 km / h, it was one of the fastest sports cars of its time. According to legend, the prototype of the DB5 was used in ‘Goldfinger’. Years later the DB5, with its secret agent, was allowed to appear in ‘Skyfall’ as part of a mission again. Even if only briefly, since in the end the DB5 was riddled with bullets and blown up. Oldtimer fans bled their hearts at this scene, but the news that it wasn’t a real DB5 seemed conciliatory. The DB5 was used six times, and 25 years later the most famous official car in history will experience a remake. The price is enormous, but what the heck, you only live twice …

ONCE UPON A TIME

The history of Aston Martin began more than a hundred years ago. The racing businessman Lionel Martin and the British engineer Robert Bamford founded Bamford & Martin Ltd. in 1913 in the west of London. Both men shared their passion and talent for machinery, propulsion, engines and racing. This passion led them to build cars that became faster, more powerful and more beautiful. Just two years after the company was founded, the first four-wheeled vehicle with the nickname ‘Coal Scuttle’ rolled out of a backyard garage in London’s Kensington district. According to the motto ‘win on Sunday, sell on Monday’, the gentleman driver Martin took part in the hill climb of Aston Clinton, which corresponds to the name of the first vehicle. The two gentlemen

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LIKE NOWHERE ELS E

Imagine drifting at more than 125 MPH in total safety round an F1 circuit… … reproduced full-scale on a frozen lake, … behind the wheel of a high-powered sports car, … under the northern lights of Swedish Lapland.

Welcome to Lapland Ice Driving.

WWW.LAPLAND-ICE-DRIVING.COM

99 Each year, Lapland Ice Driving takes the necessary measures to completely neutralise its carbon footprint.

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Author_Text map Images_Archiv Borgmann, Werk

WHEN FLYING WASNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T A COMMON PASTIME Short trip to London, surfing week in the Canary Islands? What seems normal to many people today, used to be a luxury only for elites.

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Overcrowded check-ins, sweaty shoes on X-ray conveyor belts, unpleasant body searches, and regular delays: no, flying had always been much nicer. Price dumping is currently entering a new phase and patronising designations by on-board personnel show the prestige value that air travel still has in the Western world today, none at all. And while almost every business traveller is a frequent traveller or even something better, respect for the technical accomplishments also falls by the wayside: Zurich-Tokyo non-stop in less than twelve hours seems too slow for many passengers. Time zone hopping now creates more frustration than pleasure. 60 years ago, everything was different. At that time, intercontinental flights were considered a privilege for the top ten thousand, the transatlantic ticket to New York cost as much as a new car, while ordinary mortals chugged their way to Italy in a beetle. Regular flight schedules were something completely new; accordingly, the fastest form of travel was celebrated in the media: waving film stars with flowers on the gangway or politicians in the cockpit and everyone always in top wardrobe-flying was a social event and the plane a stage for which one dressed up accordingly, chic. Not least because there were also many photos taken there. The book ‘Das goldene Zeitalter des Luftverkehrs’ (‘The Golden Age of Air Traffic’) recalls the era in which air travel was something glamorous and exciting. At that time, other airlines and manufacturers dominated the airspace: it was the time of propellers; nozzles did not become standard until the 1960s. One learns, among other things, that from 1945 on there was a uniform

tariff prescribed by the IATA (International Air Transport Association), some of which remained instated until the 1980s. As a result, airlines had to differentiate their services and did so to the best of their ability. The reader leafs though in astonishment photos with opulently equipped cabins, washrooms, bars and galleys. Cockpits were still fully analogue and you can see in the pictures how loud the machines must have been back then: today not everything is worse, but certainly less romantic. Author Wolfgang Borgmann, who comes from an aviator family and is a proven aviation expert, has long wanted to commemorate this early epoch of modern air travel. In 33 highly interesting chapters, he competently traces their genesis-with the emergence of in-flight service from the post-war years to luxurious flying boats that could land almost anywhere, the first ‘stratospheric cruisers’ and airline competition, increasing speeds, pressurised cabins and polar routes to airport terminals, those ‘cathedrals of progress’. We learn that for the first time in 1964 more people crossed the North Atlantic by plane than by ship. Outstanding models from those ‘golden years’ such as the Lockheed Super Constellation or Douglas DC-7C, a De Havilland Comet and its French counterpart Sud Aviation Caravelle as well as the Jumbo Jet, which was first put into service in 1970 as an (air) bridge to the present, are not missing from this book. This is as nostalgic as it is entertaining, but also a lesson for all of us who so easily forget and simply take many things for granted very quickly.

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Up and away: The plane was also the stage for many stars who were in a hurry.

Wolfgang Borgmann: Das goldene Zeitalter des Luftverkehrs. 176 pages, 220 illustrations and photos, Motorbuch Verlag Stuttgart/D., ISBN 978-3-613-03655-0

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With this new exclusive sneaker collection ‘Santoni for AMG’, the performance brand Mercedes-AMG and the Italian luxury shoe label Santoni continue their successful lifestyle collaboration.

LEXUS

The Lexus LC Limited Edition combines classic colours with state-of-the-art design. The result is a coupe of the utmost in sophistication and with a wealth of technology, performance and sophistication that makes the Lexus LC so desirable.

MAYBACH

Sunglasses, ‘The Grand’, in champagne gold and black titanium combined with light green gradient lenses. Handmade in Germany.

TREN DS 105

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CARS:

ACCELERATING THE MODERN WORLD

Author_Thomas Hauer

Few inventions have shaped our world, our way of life, more enduringly than the automobile. In its 130-year history, it has disrupted spatial and social boundaries and changed the face of our cities forever. At the same time, the automotive industry has developed into a key sector of entire national economies, revolutionising production routes and value chains, making the car a symbol of modernity and an icon of design. From the very beginning, however, it was also a shiny chrome mirror of our striving for individuality and distinction, an object of hatred as well as a fetish. But in the meantime it seems as if the automotive age has passed its zenith, horsepower-brimming cars increasingly look like relics of a long past era, even resembling dinosaurs fallen out of time, whose days are numbered in view of an increasingly heated climate debate. And now, the prestigious Victoria and Albert Museum in London is devoting an exhibition of its own to the automobile and its role as the motor of our civilisation. Let us therefore take a look back. It’s New Year’s Eve in 1879, when the prototype of the petrol engine designed by Carl Benz starts with a loud cough for the first time. Its creator still had no idea that his invention would revolutionise the world. Benz’s vision: a motor vehicle powered by the force of his gasoline engine. But it was a full six years before Benz finally got his two-seater up and running in 1885, with an engine output of just 0.75 hp, a mixture of an oversized three-wheeler and a hackney carriage without the horse. On 29 January 1886, the inventor registered the patent for his ‘vehicle with gas engine drive’ under the number DRP 37435, the birth of the automobile. The first public test drive taken with the Type 1 motor car followed in July 1886, but it was not until Bertha Benz made the legendary long-distance journey in 1888 with her sons Eugen and Richard, without her husband’s knowledge, that the breakthrough came, for Bertha had impressively demonstrated the reliability of the motor car to the world over the 180 kilometre distance. The rest is history. But Benz was not the first engineer to dream of a vehicle with a combustion engine in the 19th century. The first experiments with steam-powered vehicles had already been carried out in the 18th century. For example, the three-wheeled steam vehicle had

been built by the Frenchman Nicholas-Joseph Cugnot in 1769, however, weighing 4,000 kg, it was simply too heavy and unwieldy to be of any practical use on the roads of the day. Among the pioneers of the modern internal combustion engine were the Swiss Isaac de Rivaz, who as early as 1807 designed a simple test vehicle powered by hydrogen gas; the vehicles equipped with atmospheric engines from the Belgian Étienne Lenoir, who was also the first to have a series-produced internal combustion engine; and the German Siegfried Marcus, who lived in Austria. What distinguished them all from Carl Benz, however, was that Benz not only recognised the economic potential of a ‘carriage without horses’, which he developed into a product suitable for everyday use, but also had his invention produced and marketed in his newly founded Mannheim automobile factory. Despite this, in the end it was the American Henry Ford who helped the automobile break through in the USA and thus in the motherland of automobile megalomania with the introduction of assembly line production in 1913, which both reduced manufacturing costs and dramatically increased production quantities. Ford’s legendary Model-T rolled off the assembly line around 15 million times between 1908 and 1927 at the Highland Park plant in Detroit, the hub of the US automotive industry. It was not until 1972 that the VW Beetle knocked it off the throne of the best-selling models. Just in time for the presentation of the Model-T, the first motorway in the world was built in the New York State in 1908: the Vanderbilt or Long Island Parkway. At that time it was still a private toll road whose almost straight as an arrow construction, without intersections and with separate lanes, would make it the archetype of all highways that followed. In fact, the automobile has determined the design of urban spaces in no other country in the world more strongly than in the USA. Until the 1960s, city and traffic planners, in their boundless car euphoria, were more concerned about the smooth flow of endless avalanches of cars than about the social needs of the residents. The result, which can still be felt today, is that organically evolved structures disintegrated, torn apart by highways into quarters, while city centres simultaneously became deserted

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The Car as a symbol of masculinity – Lowrider Convention in Los Angeles, 2019

FEW INVENTIONS HAVE SHAPED OUR WORLD, OUR WAY OF LIFE, MORE ENDURINGLY THAN THE AUTOMOBILE. 107

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IN THREE SECTIONS, THE EXHIBITION ORGANISERS DEVOTE THEMSELVES TO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ASPECTS OF THE SUBJECT. TOP LEFT Victoire-hood ornament designed by René Lalique, 1925. LOWER LEFT Car in rocket design by General Motors, 1953 RIGHT Advertising for the Tetra 77, French advertising photo from 1934

and in the outskirts of town, soulless sleeping communities evolved, void of infrastructure. This urban sprawl and the associated growth of cities along the new traffic routes made the car all the more indispensable in return, a vicious cycle. But even 6-lane freeways could not prevent the traffic gridlock of the megacities. The dream of unchecked mobility was dampened for the first time in the 1970s by the oil crisis and massive environmental damage caused by car exhaust, which the inhabitants of smog- enveloped cities had to increasingly experience for themselves first-hand. A development that Hollywood picked up in the 70s in numerous dystopian sci-fi flicks such as ‘Soylent Green’. However, the economic boom of the 80s and the widespread introduction of the catalytic converter gave the car another unexpected economic boost, which in retrospect now seems almost like a last resurgence. At the time, new marketing concepts created new cult brands within just a few years-such as the VW subsidiary Audi, for example, which had been acclaimed as a ‘classic’. But as early as the mid-1990s, the first rust began to appear on the paintwork of the industry, and the role of the car as a prestigious status symbol was increasingly questioned in parallel with the rise of the eco-movement, especially among younger customers. Today we are again at a turning point in automotive history. But it won’t be clear for another 15 or 20 years whether electric motors will really become established worldwide or whether we will have to develop completely new mobility concepts instead. It is precisely against this backdrop that a visit to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum is all the more worthwhile, as its exhibition of 15 groundbreaking vehicle models includes the No. 3 patent car from 1888, the first series-produced vehicle by car pioneer Carl Benz, and the concept for an autonomous flying car from the creative design studios of Italdesign, Airbus and Audi. This exhibition not only addresses the history of technology and auto design, but above all, the influence it has had on the development of society over the last 100 years-including its dark sides. In three sections, the exhibition organisers devote themselves to completely different aspects of the topic. In ‘Going’, the focus is mostly on the role of the car as an increasingly questionable symbol of technological progress, car design and the ambivalent pursuit of speed and safety. ‘Making more’, on the other hand, addresses the issue of the automobile as an archetype of modern industrial production and mass production, and also as a marketingfired object of desire. The last section, ‘Shaping space’, finally deals with the influence of the car on the world economy, its role in climate change and new mobility concepts beyond the combustion engine.

EXHIBITION Cars-Accelerating the modern world Victoria and Albert Museum London – Sainsbury Gallery 23. November 2019 – 19. April 2020 vam.ac.uk/cars | #VaVaVroom

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PRESTIGE Author_Patrick Frey Images_Porsche

THE EIGHTH GENERATION

THE NEW PORSCHE 911 WITH THE MODEL DESIGNATION 992 IS STRONGER, FASTER AND NOW ALSO DIGITAL. IN ADDITION TO A MUCH MORE MUSCULAR APPEARANCE, INNOVATIVE ASSISTANCE SYSTEMS MEET THE MODERN DEMANDS OF THE DIGITAL WORLD.

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The heart of a sports car (in general and the 911 in particular) is its engine. With 450 hp in the Carrera S (rear) and Carrera 4S (all-wheel drive) models, the latest generation of the six-cylinder boxer engine with biturbo charging presents itself with an additional 30 hp. This was achieved by an improved injection system and a new configuration of turbochargers including charge air cooling. Power is transmitted by a newly developed eight-speed dual-clutch transmission. Thanks to the maximum torque of 530 Newton metres from 2300 / min, the sprint from zero to 100 km / h in the Carrera S takes just 3.7 seconds and 3.6 seconds in the 4S. With the optional Sport Chrono package, the value is reduced by a further 0.2 seconds each. The maximum speeds are now 308 and 306 km / h respectively. Above the large wheels with a 20 diameter in the front and a 21 diameter in the rear, there are significantly wider wheel arches. The rearend of all models is now uniformly wide and equipped with a seamless fine lighting strip. At the front, the width increased by 45 millimetres. Electrically extending handles, new LED headlights and a significantly wider extendable rear spoiler are further features. With the exception of the front and rear ends, the entire outer shell is now made of aluminium. The dashboard is characterised by clear, straight lines, reminiscent of ‘the 11’ from the 1970s. The centrally positioned touch screen has been enlarged to 10.9 inches. The multimedia and connectivity system ‘Porsche Communication Management’ (PCM) includes a black data-based online navigation system as standard and ‘Porsche Connect Plus’ for connecting mobile devices and the internet. A world first is the standard Wet Mode: This function detects water on the road, conditions the control systems accordingly and warns the driver. The standard warning and braking assistant also detects the danger of collisions with moving objects on a camera-based basis and initiates emergency braking if necessary. For the first time, a night vision assistant with a thermal imaging camera is available as an option for the 911. Three new apps exploit the potential of digitisation: ‘Porsche Road Trip’ is used to plan and organise exceptional tours, the ‘Porsche 360+’ personal assistant is available to customers around the clock as a personal lifestyle assistant, and the web-based ‘Porsche Impact’ emissions calculator helps to neutralise the individual CO2 footprint and recommends internationally certified climate projects. Entry into the 911 Carrera S starts at CHF 156,700 (4S from CHF 167,100) including country-specific equipment, extended warranty (2+2) and Porsche Swiss Package.

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SUPERMODELS

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Author_Beat Krenger

FASHION

THEY ARE AT THE TOP OF FASHION OLYMPUS: ADUT AKECH AND ANOK YAI. TWO YOUNG BLACK WOMEN WHO SET AN IMPORTANT EXAMPLE FOR MORE DIVERSITY AND TOLERANCE.

Whether in Milan, Paris, London or New York, something is happening on catwalks, in advertisements and on the pages of the world’s most renowned fashion magazines. The long-awaited change is finally happening. The proportion of dark-skinned models in campaigns, fashion shows and in ‘Vogue’ has never been as high as it is now. Currently there are two newcomers landing the best jobs, and the best paying jobs, from Chanel to Valentino to Estée Lauder. Adut Akech and Anok Yai, both very black and very proud of it, are the top models of Generation Z. This is very gratifying because their eventful life stories mirror our diverse society today. Two moments of a fashion show are particularly desirable among models, also in 2019, because they guarantee garnering the greatest attention and have already been a springboard the careers of some models: to be the first model to open a well-known designer’s fashion show or to be the last to close it, particularly in a wedding dress as the crowning glory of the entire collection. Before his death, fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld personally decided on Adut Akech, then at the tender age of 18, to be allowed to wear the most expensive dress with a bridal veil for his penultimate Chanel fashion show. When Adut walked across the catwalk in the Grand Palais in Paris in mint green, it was also an important message for more diversity in the fashion scene. Following after supermodel Alek Wek who embodied the Chanel bride in 2004, Adut was only the second black model to be honoured with this accolade. ‘Such moments are signs of progress’, Akech explained to the press with tears in her eyes. ‘We will be looking back on this event for quite a few years, but I very much hope that it will lead to a wider acceptance of black models in the industry’. Adut Akech has been incredibly busy ever since as the otherwise very exclusive fashion scene has become more open and diverse. At the end of last year, Adut Akech was unanimously named Model of the Year, adorning campaigns for Bottega Veneta, Versace Chanel, H&M, Zara, Saint Laurent, Fendi, Miu Miu, Givenchy and Missoni. During the last series of international fashion weeks, concluding in Paris in October, she walked for all the designers of distinction. The young woman has a face that should be remembered and five international September issues of ‘Vogue’, on whose cover Adut was featured, made sure of that. Five ‘Vogue’ titles in one month: this is spectacular and has never been done by a newcomer model before.

Adut Akech on the Milan Fashion Week runway.

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Anok Yai became a top model thanks to Instagram.

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Adut Akech fights for more tolerance in the fashion world.

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The ‘September Issues’, which traditionally herald the start of the new fashion season, are regarded as the ultimate style bible for new trends. This black ‘top model’ not only adorned the cover of the Japanese, German and Australian ‘Vogue’, but also the much acclaimed ‘Vogue Italia’. However, the greatest honour was to be the one selected by the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, as one of 15 hopefuls for the cover of the British ‘Vogue’. Markle had co-designed the magazine as co-editor-in-chief and it became an absolute bestseller far beyond the British Isles. Adut Akech was born in South Sudan and grew up under extremely harsh conditions in a refugee camp in Kenya before moving to Australia with her family. It is this story that impressed Meghan Markle and inspired Adut Akech to become a political ambassador against discrimination and racism. Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director and chief designer of Valentino, is also an avowed fan of Adut Akech. For a few seasons now, she has been regularly walking for all of his fashion shows in Paris and has already been part of several campaigns of the luxury label. Last September, Piccioli announced on his Instagram account: ‘For the first time ever, a black woman represents a perfume scent of a couture house and I couldn’t be more proud of it’. Adut Akech is not only the face of the new fragrance ‘Born in Roma’, she is also writing a piece of history with her lucrative, multi-year exclusive contract. ‘Diversity’ means variety. To stand out, to look different, to diverge from the norm. And these are all attributes of why Adut Akech and her model colleague Anok Yai are attracting so much attention at the moment. They are not only stunningly beautiful, but also proud of their roots, politically committed and very smart. Diversity is no longer just an empty promise. It is a fact. Even in the fashion industry which for so many years had focused on size ‘zero’ and classic, interchangeable beauties. The fact that designer Pierpaolo Piccioli exclusively engaged dark-skinned models for his last Valentino couture show was not a unique whim, but an important statement for more recognition and tolerance. ‘Couture was once intended only for white women, but fortunately, today that is over with,’ Piccioli told the press after his show. ‘It’s now about something that goes far beyond clothes. It’s about a change in society’. He receive a lot of encouragement from all sides for his action. Inclusivity is becoming more and more important. And yet, not everyone is easily dealing with change. When an Australian lifestyle magazine recently published a large portrait of Adut Akech, one of the photos in the article was of a completely different model. The top model rightly raved and wrote an explicit statement on Instagram. Her accusation was: much has happened in recent years, however, such confusion would not have happened to an equally well-known white model. This episode demonstrates that despite all the success stories regarding a greater acceptance, there is still some catching up to do, and not only in the superficial fashion world where short-lived trends dominate the business. Anok Yai has been part of the fashion circus for almost two years, and in this short time she has broken several industry records. This biochemistry student was discovered by chance at a music festival in jean shorts, T-shirt and naturally frizzy hair. A street style photographer posted the 19-year-old’s snapshot on Instagram and the photo went viral. A short time later, she was signed to one of the best modelling agencies, won a multi-year Estée Lauder beauty deal and became Miuccia Prada’s new darling.

But the Cinderella story goes even further back into the past. In 1997, today’s top model was born in Egypt as the daughter of Sudanese migrants. Her family had to flee from the genocide in Darfur. Eventually, Anok Yai came to New Hampshire, where she finally found a safe place to call home. She is also en route with a clear mission: ‘I want to be a role model. I want to show people that dark skin is beautiful. I just want it to be natural to be black today’. Today Anok Yai is considered Tom Ford’s muse, and she was the second black model in history to open a Prada show, 20 years after Naomi Campbell was honoured. Today, 21-year-old Anok Yai can charge a staggering 15,000 dollars an hour for a photo shoot. The fortune of this graceful beauty is estimated at over three million dollars today. Even Cinderella would turn green with envy. But it is precisely this unwavering attention that Adut and Anok receive for their work that shows how deeply rooted this old image of beauty still is. Only in the past two years has the fashion industry begun to take the word ‘diversity’ to heart and only now is it slowly bearing fruit. Recently, pop star Rihanna impressively demonstrated in New York that women of all skin colors, gender nuances and body shapes should wear their designed Fenty lingerie – and look stunning in it. Whether thick, thin, black, white, with or without blemish. The word ‘diversity’ actually contains the new recipe for success, for more solidarity, more recognition and variety. Far beyond the fashion world. And only now does one get the feeling that the industry, which for a long time largely refused to use this term, is really serious about it. Thanks in part to the groundbreaking performances of Adut Akech and Anok Yai, who have risen to the top and there to stay.

THE VERY EXCLUSIVE FASHION SCENE HAS BECOME MORE OPEN AND DIVERSE 118

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BALMAIN

Thousands of studs and the application of patchwork can be found in Balmain's autumn / winter 2019 / 2020 collection. Striking bouclĂŠ blazers, black accessories and contrasting struc tures are the must-haves of the season.

WOMEN

MULBERRY

The new Keeley bag embodies the best of the rebellious spirit that runs through British history, from suffragettes to punks. Hardware details and the new Keystone stud-adorned lock contrast with a soft structure.

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VALENTINO

Rockstud calfskin ankle boot with platinum studs and elastic side panels. The rubber sole provides support even on snowcovered surfaces.

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CAT E RIN G

andyz a u gg.ch

GO URM E T CO OK I N G CL ASSE S COAC H IN G

andy@andyz a u gg.ch 121

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Naeem Khan presented colourful embroidery and elegant robes.

DOMINICANA MODA Author_Swenja Willms Images_Tourist Board of the Dominican Republic

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TREND-CONSCIOUS FASHION CONNOISSEURS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE MEET AT THE FASHION WEEK IN BERLIN, PARIS AND NEW YORK. THESE CITIES ARE ON THE CHECK LIST OF INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED DESIGNERS. HOWEVER, HARDLY ANYONE KNOWS THAT THERE IS ALSO A FASHION EVENT OF EQUAL IMPORTANCE TAKING PLACE FAR AWAY FROM ALL THIS HUSTLE AND BUSTLE, FAR AWAY UNDER PALM TREES AND THE SHINING SUN: THE ANNUAL CARIBBEAN FASHION WEEK ‘DOMINICANA MODA 2019’, IN SANTO DOMINGO, BRINGS TOGETHER LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS.

At the end of October, the historic colonial zone of Santo Domingo once again became the centre of the Caribbean fashion world with the fashion week ‘Dominicana Moda 2019’. For the 14th time, this renowned event brought together local and international designers on the catwalk. The ‘Dominicana Moda’ has established itself as the most important fashion event in the Caribbean in recent years-thanks to the combination of fashion, gastronomy and entertainment-and is supported by the Ministry of Tourism of the Dominican Republic. Providing the ideal backdrop is the romantic old town of Santo Domingo, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The large, loyal public annually shows its appreciation for the new trends and collections with resounding applause. The programme featured exclusive designs by Giannina Azar, Arcadio Díaz, Leonel Lirio, Jenny Polanco, Jacqueline, Carlos de Moya, Rafael Rivero, Michelle Reynoso and Miguel Genao. The event was also enhanced by the Dominican brands

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Rafael Rivero’s collection underlines the figure of the feminine and the self-confident woman.

Metallic colours, sequins and fringes dominate with the designer Giannina Azar.

Camila Casual, Cayena, Arnaldo Womenswear, Toribio Brand, Louardos and Achadom. At the ‘Children Showcase’, the children’s collections from Little Tales and Dixy Kids were also presented.

on Spanish culture. Inspired by traditional flamenco and bullfighting, Rivero created a collection for strong and confident women. Dot and flower prints dominate the chiffon, crepe and chantilly garments in a wide range of warm and light tones.

LOCAL NAMES The designer Giannina Azar was responsible for the opening of the 14th edition of ‘Dominicana Moda’. Azar presented her collection to the accompaniment of iconic disco music. Aptly, metallic colours, sequins and fringes dominated the clothes shown on the catwalk. Mini dresses and off-shoulders found their place just as much as transparency and the use of tulle in skirts and dresses. Under the motto ‘Acqua’ the Dominican designer Jenny Polanco broke with her traditional white collections and presented a collection in strong red, orange and coral shades. The ruins of San Nicolás de Bari were chosen by designer Carlos de Moya for the presentation of his ‘Caña Brava’ collection, which recalls the colourfulness and folklore of Dominican culture. Carlos de Moya himself sees the Dominican Republic not only as a part of his life and childhood, but also as a cultural brand, taking every opportunity to incorporate it into his fashion. The local designer Rafael Rivero followed a similar approach in his spring / summer collection ‘Olé’. The designer of this collection did not concentrate on Latin American culture, but

PARADE OF ELEGANCE The crowning finale this year was the exclusive show of the internationally acclaimed Indian-American designer Naeem Khan in the Iglesia Santa Bárbara. Since his first collection in 2003, numerous personalities have adorned his creations. Among them are Queen Noor al-Hussain of Jordan, Her Royal Highness Catherine Duchess of Cambridge, Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Taylor Swift, Rachel McAdams and the former First Lady Michelle Obama. At the end of the ‘Dominicana Moda’ Naeem Khan presented his 2020 spring and summer collection together with selected pieces from his bridal collection. Khan dedicates the collection to his late friend and architect Zaha Hadid – she is hard to beat in elegance and femininity. The main feature of this fashion designer is the elaborately hand-embroidered garments in colourful textiles. See-through and lace are used as a highlight in blouses or dresses. Voluminous evening dresses made of chiffon in vibrant colours give the collection an expression of youthful freedom.

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Unvarnished Beauty

Author_Anna Karolina Stock

Peter Lindbergh – Creator of supermodels.

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IN FRONT OF HIS CAMERA PEOPLE FELT COMFORTABLE AND READY TO BE THEMSELVES. PETER LINDBERGH THUS CREATED A BODY OF PHOTOGRAPHIC WORK THAT HAS NO EQUAL IN THE FASHION WORLD. AFTER HIS DEATH, THE A UTHENTICITY OF HIS WORK IS MORE RELEVANT THAN EVER.

When you think of Peter Lindbergh, who passed away in September, you usually think of the famous ‘Vogue’ cover from 1990, in which five beautiful and then very young models, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Tatjana Patitz and Linda Evangelista can be seen. They wear cotton shirts with jeans, the make-up is simple. A cover that was so different from that which had previously filled fashion magazines: perfectly staged images of women with opulent gold jewellery and hairstyles full of hairspray. But it wasn’t their flawless bodies or their youthfulness that fascinated the photographer and subsequently turned these young women into the first generation of supermodels. HE SAW ALL FACETS ‘Peter was a man who understood people. He never only saw the façade of a person, but always saw and depicted the real person behind it. Those who let him photograph them needed courage and trust to allow this nakedness, this exposure, in whatever form, to take place,’ writes editor-in-chief Christiane Arp about her long-time friend and collaborator in this year’s November issue of the German ‘Vogue’. Peter Lindbergh was indeed a visionary who could capture the true essence of a person in a single image and who never tired of photographing intelligent and strong personalities who dared to appear in front of his camera, even without make-up and in just a simple white men’s shirt, contrary to the conventions of the time. He also remained steadfast when postproduction took over as the new tool in the beauty industry. Hiding wrinkles and flaws was what the industry called ‘enhanced reality’, but Lindbergh refused to sell retouched perfection as truth and remained true to his low-key and timeless way of depicting a woman’s unvarnished spirit throughout his 40-year career. Among other

things, he became the first photographer to supply the famous Pirelli calendar with photographs of self-confident actresses of all ages-in black and white, of course, and with all their ‘flaws’, instead of soft porn aesthetics. STEP BY STEP TO BECOME A FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER Peter Lindbergh was born in 1944 under the name Peter Brodbeck in Lissa, today Poland. Since his family was expelled to Germany, he spent his youth in post-war Duisburg, a coal-mining and industrial city in the Ruhr area. Lindbergh arrived relatively late to photography. Where he came from, art was something very far away. After finishing elementary school he worked as a window dresser for the Karstadt and Horten department store chains. ‘That was the most artistic thing I could imagine back then’, the star photographer revealed in an interview. In order not to be drafted by the Bundeswehr, he went to Switzerland at the age of 18. Ten months later he moved from Lucerne to West Berlin. From this point on he gradually found his artistic destiny. His career began with the study of painting at the Kunsthochschule (Art Academy) in Krefeld, where he also met his first wife Astrid. Van Gogh and the New Objectivity – the return to the world of the visible-became his role models, later conceptual art. His fascination with wooden chairs, for example, is said to derive from the works of the American conceptual artist Joseph Kossuth. It was not until 1971, at the age of 27, that he finally turned to photography and worked for two years as an assistant to the Düsseldorf photographer Hans Lux. During this time he adopted the professional name Lindbergh, inspired by the pilot and writer Charles Lindbergh, who was the first man to cross the Atlantic. After making a name for himself for a few years as an independent

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THOSE WHO HAD THEMSELVES PHOTOGRAPHED BY HIM NEEDED COURAGE AND TRUST.

advertising photographer, Willy Fleckhaus, one of the most innovative and influential designers of the post-war period, became aware of him. His first works for the German magazine ‘Stern’ followed. He was inspired by early documentary photographers such as Dorothea Lange, Henri Cartier-Bresson and Walker Evans and laid the foundation for his later style, with which he is still associated today: black-and-white, grainy, unpretentious-anything but perfect. THE PERSON IN THE FOREGROUND-NOT THE LOOK Despite close personal relationships with famous fashion designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Giorgio Armani, Lindbergh – unlike many of his colleagues-never made the mistake of confusing his models with soulless objects. He always paid little attention to who had created the outfits. Fashion, which usually has an interest in being presented in all its glory had to take a back seat to the models. He was initially criticised as being much too negligent and that clothing could not be sold like this. However, Lindbergh proved the opposite to be true: in the future, when his beautiful muses became successful superstars and powerful businesswomen with 15,000 dollar pay days and George Michael turned Lindbergh’s works into a video for his hit ‘Freedom! 90’, the fashion industry also profited from his honest and direct way of taking photos.

INSPIRATION FROM CHILDHOOD DAYS From Duisburg it is two and a half hours by car to the picturesque sandy beach of Zandvoort. Lindbergh’s parents regularly took him and his siblings to the Dutch coastal town on weekends, simply to sit on the beach as an escape from his industrial homeland, which he said was ‘so ugly’ that everything else automatically looked beautiful. If he had grown up in Venice or Paris his view of beauty would most likely be quite different. The extent to which these childhood beach excursions may have influenced him is reflected in many of his works. For example, in his portraits that fashion designer Jil Sander used to advertise her brand at the beginning of the 1990s, she herself was photographed on a bright, wide sandy beach, holding the lapel of her fluttering coat and defying the wind. How she enjoys the vastness. A strong, free, elegant woman. Or the group portraits from 1988 in which Lindbergh had several models, including the future supermodels Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, and Tatjana Patitz, put on men’s white shirts and had them play around on the beach of Santa Monica. Their legs naked, their hair windswept, laughing, completely natural. Later, Julianne Moore and Kate Winslet would also stand on the beach in front of his camera. All these iconic photos were taken by him.

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THE LEGACY OF A STAR PHOTOGRAPHER With his death on 3 September 2019 at the age of 74, Lindbergh leaves behind his wife Petra, his first wife Astrid, four sons and seven grandchildren. Also a huge gap, as his team announced the day after on his Instagram page. And Lindbergh also saw this gap in contemporary photography. Exaggerated self-portrayals and digital image processing have always been suspicious to him. He couldn’t stand photoshop and selfies. ‘Only when you have the courage to be yourself are you truly beautiful’, Lindbergh emphasised over and over again. Yes, as a photographer he accepted the responsibility to show precisely that and he always remained true to this credo. His camera served him as a means of transformation with which he could transform every woman into an untouchable and sovereign heroine. Most recently, for the September issue of the British edition of ‘Vogue’, he photographed fifteen inspiring women whom guest editor Meghan Markle herself had selected. On the cover they are referred to as ‘Forces for Change’: Women who could steer the world in the right direction. Among them is Greta Thunberg. Lindbergh’s black-and-white portrait of the 16-year-old climate activist could actually herald the beginning of a new era, or have you already seen such a serious girl in a hoodie and without make-up on a ‘Vogue’ cover before?

RIGHT TOP Kate Moss, St. Barth, 2007 RIGHT BOTTOM Estelle Lefébure, Karen Alexander, Rachel Williams, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz & Christy Turlington, Santa Monica, 1988

Peter Lindbergh / Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris

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ÂŠ Peter Lindbergh / courtesy Schirmer / Mosel

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Peter Lindbergh Images of Women 312 pages, 189 Duotone plates Schirmer / Mosel Verlag ISBN 978-3-8296-0637-0

Peter Lindbergh Images of Women II Photographien 2005â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2014 296 pages, 161 Duotone plates, 166 Illustrations Schirmer / Mosel Verlag ISBN 978-3-8296-0685-1

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MEN

FASHION

GUCCI

A modern version of menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoes from the 18th and 19th centuries, decorated with precious metal buckles and a hefty gold chain with horse bit details.

BURBERRY

Duff le coat in beige wool with hood and graphic stripes with Jacquard weaving as a modern reinterpretation of Burberry's characteristic design elements.

ETRO

This belt is made of crocodile-printed leather and features a Pegasus buckle and inside hot stamped Paisley pattern.

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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

The new Alexander document case features the characteristic brown Alex belt handles in grained black leather for a slender and minimalist aesthetic with an embossed branding on the front.

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BE BE AUTY AU TY & WELL WELL BE BEING ING PRESTIGE

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BEAUTYâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;&WELLBEING Photography: brigitteaeschbach SS19 Blazer: www.mourjjan.com Model: Jade for www.scout-model.com

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EYES OPEN! Author_Beatrice Schönhaus

tures’ in the partially floral, airy petite dresses nevertheless seemed extremely strongwilled, somewhat angry and ready for combat in the urban jungle. Actually, the artistic inspiration for this was the life story of Christian Dior’s sister, Catherine, who was a trained gardener and sold flowers in Paris in the Les Halles quarter until she joined the resistance during the Second World War. She risked life and limb, but thanks to good luck she survived. ‘I decided to use this show to celebrate Catherine because I think she was a really modern woman’, explains designer Maria Grazia Chiuri in an interview with the German edition of Vogue. In the character of Catherine poetry meets steel resistance, soft resistance meets hard resistance, playful resistance meets determination. This fits perfectly with the current fashion and make-up trend, the dualism of today. It forms an attractive contrast to one’s personality, which can also be emphasized optically. The best way is to have a beautician, or tutorials on Youtube, show you the best way to get an accentuated eye area right-and then have effective eyebrows applied by your favourite beautician. The market offers many exciting new products in specialist shops, such as the ‘Natural Brow Shaper’ or the entire ‘Brow Kit’ from Bobbi Brown. In addition, the French company Lancôme, has succeeded in producing an excellent product with the ‘Sourcils Styler’. The mascara ‘Volume Effet Faux Cils’ from the cult brand Yves Saint Laurent is convincing and so is Helena Rubinstein’s ‘Lash Queen Mascara’. By the way, pretty designed products can also be purchased from ‘the King of shoe design’ Christian Louboutin: The ‘Metallic Eye Colour’ line may be purchased via the online provider Net-a-porter.

When US superstar Taylor Swift takes the stage, many people get goose bumps. Goose bumps because of her dramatic look. And distinctive make-up. The cat eyes, which she gets made up for, is definitely quite dramatic. In conjunction with her charisma, what we can learn in a small way is: it creates her presence. Actress Kristen Stewart, who became famous fore her role in the film ‘Twilight’ with Robert Pattinson, also knows this and she skillfully, dramatically and powerfully emphasizes the area around her eyes. This enhances her already expressive face with an unmistakable, mysterious touch. It’s true: the look is perhaps more suitable for the evening, a party or a big event. In the bright neon lights of an office it could seem slightly exaggerated and inappropriate. In the beauty industry, however, this is one of the big winter trends of 2019 / 20. The entire eye area is the focus of stylists. There are many variations, from subtle, with the help of an eyebrow brush or pencil, or powerful, with shimmering eye shadows such as Chanel’s ‘Ombres Premières’ and lots of mascara and artificial eyelashes. For fashion inspiration it is best to watch the shows of Prada, Fendi, Versace and of course Dior. The models appear poetic, feminine and sometimes playful. And yet, they are also incredibly strong, decisive and self-confident. Exactly how today’s women are. At the moment, the master of this production is Maria Grazia Chiuri, who shapes the designs and vision of the fashion house Dior and has thus caused an international sensation at the pret-à-porter shows Spring / Summer 2020. It was one of the most interesting, futuristic shows that perfectly reflected the contemporary zeitgeist because the ‘delicate crea-

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Viewed on the runway: eyes accentuated in Dior’s Spring / Summer 2020 collection.

Dior, Peter Philips focuses upon the dramatic look.

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Designed both visually and in terms of content for the eye: Louboutin M ̒ etallic Eye Colour’.

The ‘Brow Kit’ by Bobbi Brown accentuates the eye area.

Yves Saint Laurent convinces with the mascara ‘Volume Effet Faux Cils’.

brow transplants, which give a more intensive look, are totally in. However, the following always applies: consult a specialist before the procedure, know the risks and, very importantly, find out how to remove the eyebrows again if you are not completely satisfied with the effect’. The beauty of today’s available options is the fact that you can choose whatever pleases you. Personally, I prefer a gentle approach, reiving help for proper care and optical tricks. Others want to improve themselves right now, once and for all-of course, differences are naturally allowed here. What is most important is the result, the moment when you look into the mirror and say: ‘That’s how I like it’.

If this is not enough for you and if the optimization is not fast enough, talk to a reputable dermatologist and expert in aesthetic medicine regarding options for gently correcting or optimising one or the other of nature’s mishaps, sagging eyelids or other things. The experienced dermatologist Dr. med. Michael Gütling from the Pallas Clinics reveals: ‘Upper lid tightening is still something that is most in demand. This reopens the eyes and gives you a fresher appearance. In addition, the effect of this treatment lasts for a long time. Ugly crow’s feet can usually be repaired with Botox or a new thread lift, using threads that dissolve by themselves. Also, today’s lasers are much more effective and gentle on the skin. Eye-

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SISLEY

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Thanks to the innovative, heatable warming bar, GilletteLabs’ Heated Razor provides an incomparable shaving experience: like the feeling of a barber’s warm towel-at the first time at home, at just a touch of a button and with every stroke and every shave. Available exclusively in the new Gillette Online Shop from September.

The new ‘phyto-ombres’ from Sisley have a high pigment concentration and are mixed with light-ref lecting motherof-pearl particles. 20 luminous, intense and magnetic shades with a silky, ultra-fine texture and various finishes for a colour-intensive look.

ALF HELLER

‘The Man’ shampoo with its ultra mild formula is the indispensable daily companion for hair and beard care for the modern man.

PRESTIGE

PINK RIBBON NIGHT

Author_Swenja Willms Images_Pink Ribbon Schweiz

In 1992, Evelyn Lauder launched the pink ribbon because she believed that by joining forces you could achieve more and put an end to breast cancer one day. 27 years later, the Estée Lauder companies are still committed to the cause and this year’s Breast Cancer campaign, under the motto ‘Hope for healing unites us all’, is an expression of solidarity. This year’s ‘Pink Ribbon Night’ breast cancer gala is also making an important contribution to this.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum for Pink Ribbon.

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27 years ago, Evelyn Lauder launched a worldwide breast cancer campaign with the Estée Lauder companies.

Clinical Cancer Research (SAKK) is to motivate patients at an early stage to walk regularly and briskly, thereby reducing the incidence of muscle and joint pain and other side effects such as hot flashes and fatigue. The study aims to show that physical activity has a positive influence on everyday life of the female patients, and in the long term they will suffer less from the secondary effects of the drug therapy. With the help of the study results, it should be possible to show patients how they themselves can reduce side effects and have a positive influence on their therapy. With the support of this study, in which more than 30 Swiss centres are involved, the Estée Lauder companies would like to make a contribution to improving the quality of life of patients and making it easier for them to maintain their therapy. At the end of the evening of the Pink Ribbon Night, a total of 70,000 Swiss francs were collected for the SAKK study. To thunderous applause, the entire audience danced along with the closing act of the Pink Surprise Show, and it was felt that the many magical moments of the Pink Ribbon Night 2019 would be remembered for a long time to come.

This year’s breast cancer gala was all about magic. The invited guests were taken into a magical world with culinary delights and spectacular show performances. For the sixth time in a row, top chef Anton Mosimann cooked on a voluntary basis for the guests, and during the exclusive gala dinner two magicians amazed the audience with their unexpected magic tricks. The surprise show in the ballroom of the Park Hyatt Zürich also provided enchanting moments: the Pink Ribbon Ambassadors Jesse Ritch, Eliane Müller, Tiziana Gulino and Viola Tami gave a touching charity concert. The proceeds from the Pink Ribbon Night will finance a study by the Swiss Association for Clinical Cancer Research (SAKK), which promises breast cancer patients to make therapy more tolerable. DIAGNOSIS OF BREAST CANCER Every eighth woman is confronted with this diagnosis. The breast cancer campaign of the Estée Lauder companies unites and inspires millions of people in their quest to create a world without breast cancer. The aim of the ‘Wise’ study by the Swiss Association for

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DAYBED STORY Author_Lone K. Halvorsen

THE STYLISH E VERYDAY COMPANION AND ETERNAL PLACE OF LONGING 141

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LIVING

They call themselves Daybed, Chaise longue or Récamier – different names for a fascinating pieceof furniture. The stylish, elegant sitting and reclining sofas are enjoying increasing popularity.

Over time, the two-part chaise longue merged into a single piece of furniture from which the récamier and the modern chaise longue emerged. What was customary was the long lounger without backrest, but with two high curved armrests. Over the years, many variants of the récamier have been developed, and sometimes the lounger has been made slightly shorter, with a comfortable stool for one’s legs as required. The récamier was named after the French writer Julie Récamier. In contrast to the original form without backrest and with two armrests, this piece of furniture nowadays usually has a backrest in which the armrests are often only hinted at.

All three would rather not define themselves as a concrete piece of furniture, but would rather enjoy having the freedom to unfold according to the needs of the user. Whether they want to relax sitting or lying down with a nice book or a glass of wine, take a nap at noon, just want to dream a little or if they want to stay overnight … They are not only beautiful, but also multifunctional and intelligent. They are convincing as soloists who, above all, unfold their salon flair freely in the room. Where previously expansive sofa landscapes dominated, daybeds & co. have long since earned their living room entitlement. But since the characteristics between the three often merge, the boundaries blur and the differences cannot be clearly defined for some, we look back into the past to uncover the history of the legendary all-rounder.

THE DAYBED – SIMPLE AND STYLISH First do what’s require and then freestyle, may be the motto for many people, if an apartment is to be furnished. Nevertheless, there is no doubt that the daybed is at the top of some people’s list of ‘that-would-be-nice-to-have furniture’. The further development of the historical reclining furniture is being reinterpreted every year with more and more zeal even if the effort is not always visible, because the simplicity is the attraction of the daybed. Particularly effective are the models that completely dispense with back and armrests. The purist Barcelona Daybed by Bauhaus legend Ludwig Mies van der Rohe is certainly one of the most beautiful classics. It was trimmed down in the Bauhaus style and created in 1929 without any elaborate design.

CHAISE LONGUE & RÉCAMIER – TWO LOUNGERS WITH HISTORY The oldest representative of the three furniture musketeers is the chaise longue. The word alone has something elegant about it, and the chaise longue truly radiates glamour in the room. Translated as ‘long chair’, the Romans already knew about the magic of the couch, they would eat and read on it, or receive guests in a half lying position. A virtue that was celebrated by rulers in ancient times. They were right, because the informality of the resting and day bed was already predestined at that time for thinking or dozing. The lounger with the raised headboard became popular in ancient times, and in the second half of the 19th century the upholstered ‘long chair’ became fashionable in France. The design emerged from an armchair extended by a tabouret, the chaise longue was thus designed in two parts. One of the best-known chaise longues is the LC4 by Le Corbusier, Pierre Jeanneret and Charlotte Perriand. Designed in 1928 with a steel frame, it was to serve as the cornerstone for further interpretations that followed during that period.

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MAGIC HALL OF MIRRORS Author_Swenja Willms Images_Shao Feng

THE READING OF BOOKS HAS ALWAYS BEEN REGARDED AS AN IDEAL PASTIME FOR DIVING INTO NEW, STRANGE WORLDS. THE RECENTLY COMPLETED ‘CHONGQING ZHONGSHUGE’ TAKES YOU TO A TRULY GEOMETRIC WONDERLAND. THIS BOOKSTORE MANAGES A THRILLING SYMBIOSIS: HALF TRINITY COLLEGE LIBRARY AND HALF TRIBUTE TO THE WORKS OF THE DUTCH MASTER OF THE THIRD DIMENSION, M. C. ESCHER.

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As one of the largest inland cities in the world with both mountains and rivers, Chongqing is a city full of surprises and wonderful, charming corners. Since ancient times its landscape has attracted many prominent writers and calligraphers. To this day, Chongqing is a city with the power of attraction. This bookstore in southwestern China, designed by the local architectural firm X+Living, now also has a magical pull. The 13,000â&#x20AC;&#x2030;square meter Chongqing Zhongshuge is located on the third and fourth floors of Zodi Plaza in Yangjiaping. The surreal interior is characterized by a seemingly endless wall of books and stairs. Inspired by the rich literary history of the city of Chongqing, the bookshop uses abstract architecture and mirrors to offer customers a unique experience. In the dark brown lobby there are scattered lampshade-shaped bookcases inviting you to browse and have stimulating conversations. A quiet reading corridor with bookshelves extends down the foyer. In the other corner of the lobby is the childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reading room, where the bookshelves are colourfully decorated with drawn landscapes, buildings and transportation of Chongqing. Children are able to feel like they are in charming Chongqing while reading in this room. The most impressive room, however, is the huge ladder hall, in which crosswise stairs serve as shelves and ladders as access to the books. A reflective ceiling creates a mirror image of the breathtaking space for those looking up. The wide steps of the staircase also serve as seating areas where visitors are encouraged to read and rest. This feature is intended to allow the reader to sink into books and thoughts. On the 4th floor there is a spacious reading room with works by renowned authors, where visitors can enrich their visual and spiritual worlds. The purpose of bookstores has remained constant for centuries, and that is exactly what the Chongqing Zhongshuge Bookstore was created for: a place where not only literary works are explored, but also our own spirit.

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THE MAGIC OF MEDITERRANEAN LIFE Waking up without a care in the world, a relaxed lifestyle and French savoir-vivre on the Côte d’Azur is daily life in the villas ‘Le Ramingao’. Living in an idyllic urban setting within an exclusive, quiet and absolutely unobstructed location, just 1.5 kilometres from the Monaco Beach Club is an exclusive rarity. Surrounded by exquisite, hand-picked and natural materials, combined with Swiss quality standards, these residential properties in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin fulfil all wishes for a high standard of living. Author_Omar Dewji Images_STUDIO f, F-06300 Nice

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high demands of the Swiss builder, who possesses great expertise in the construction of luxury residences, leave nothing to be desired and allow you to enjoy life to its very fullest, every single day. State of the art security systems, such as glass windows made of safety glass and the addition of surveillance cameras, are the very best prevention against disruption by uninvited guests. The properties are offered directly by the Swiss builder at fair market conditions without intermediaries or brokers. For this reason, future owners are not determined exclusively by their purchasing power since great care is also taken to ensure that a suitable group of buyers is appropriately matched. Completion in the summer of 2020 offers enough time for the opportunity of individual expansion requests.

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin is nestled within the French Maritime Alps and offers a unique view of the turquoise blue ‘Golfe Bleu’ between Cap Martin and Cap Roquebrune. The two ‘Le Ramingao’ villas, built separately by a local French architect under Swiss instructions do justice to this view in this unique residential region. The first detached private villa with more than 570 square meters of living space is spread over three floors, in addition it has its own infinity pool 45 square meters and an additional top floor with parking spaces for seven vehicles. The second freestanding villa comprises a separate apartment with more than 250 square metres of living space plus three parking spaces on the top floor and a duplex apartment with a total of more than 420 square metres with its own infinity pool as well as four spacious parking spaces on the top floor. The choice of materials and the

WWW.VILLARAMINGAO.CH

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TJEP

A sensual chair that represents the transformation from a doll to a butterfly. This is the ‘Chrysalide Chair’ by Studio Tjep. The design is part of the most expressive and personal work of designer Frank Tjepkema.

VILLARI

LIVING

Flowering roses and gilded leaves adorn this Villari tray insinuating a botanical look. Made of brass and porcelain, the gold design is perfect for presenting decorative items and serving afternoon tea or dinner.

PORUS STUDIO

The modern pendant ‘Portman’ combines old accents with the new and was designed in honour of the American architect John Calvin Portman. The old brushed brass lampshade with movable polished brass rings fits into any modern bedroom decor.

ROBERTO CAVALLI

Side table ‘Yoa’ with metal feet in cast brass gold in the shape of two bronze snakes with a slanted glass top.

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CU LINA RI UM CU LI NA RIUM

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COURCHEVEL À LA CARTE – Author_Thomas Hauer

TOGETHER WITH MÉRIBEL AND VAL THORENS, COURCHEVEL FORMS THE CENTRE OF THE LEGENDARY TROIS VALLÉES IN THE DEPARTMENT OF SAVOIE, THE LARGEST SKI ARENA IN THE WORLD, WITH MORE THAN 600 KM OF PISTES AND OVER 180 LIFTS. JUST WITH ITS SEVEN STAR RESTAURANTS ALONE, THIS SOPHISTICATED ‘SAINT-TROPEZ OF THE ALPS’ WOULD BE A WORTHWHILE DESTINATION FOR GOURMETS.

top cuisine in the heart of the French Alps

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FINALLY

Finally, the luxury resort, created on a drawing board, set against the breathtaking backdrop of Mont Blanc and the Grande Casse, designed by the architect and urban planner Laurent Chappis, who was highly controversial in his home country, has more than 120 restaurants in its six districts. The most exclusive and expensive of which is Courchevel 1850, from the rustic fondue room to the three-star restaurant. Courchevel’s premier address, at least in culinary terms, is ‘Le 1947’ which opened in 2008 under the aegis of kitchen legend Yannick Alléno. In keeping with its status, it resides in perhaps the best hotel on the square, the ultra luxury hotel ‘Cheval Blanc’, which belongs to the LVMH Group. Anyone who can afford to stay in the 36 dreamlike rooms and suites, all unique down to the smallest detail, has stayed there. Chef Gérard Barbin, is the right-hand man during the summer and executive sous-chef in Allénos Paris’ three-star gourmet temple ‘Pavillon Ledoyen’. There he spoils gourmands with exclusive world-class culinary delights in ‘Le 1947’, which is named after the most remarkable vintage. Season after season, the kitchen manages an impressive and harmonious balancing act between culinary avant-garde and feel-good cuisine, with a local orientation. Of course, guests of ‘Le 1947’ can also choose the mythic wine of the century, on request, as an exclusive menu companion. However, a magnum bottle of the precious elixir will cost a breathtaking 127,000 euros. But hey, after all, we are in Courchevel. You don’t talk about money here, you have it. And if need be, Cheval Blanc can also be ordered by the glass in ‘Le 1947’ thanks to Coravin Winesaver. Or you can simply choose a bottle from one of the less prestigious vintages. They are definitely available at the price of a small used car.

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In ‘Le 1947’, chef Gérard Barbin’s creations are staged like edible still lifes.

The legendary 3-star restaurant under the patronage of star chef Yannick Alléno is located at the end of a minimalist corridor that attunes guests to the master’s unmistakable signature.

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When entering the restaurant, Chef Barbin first invites his guests to join him on a small kitchen tour and presents, not without pride, the charcoal-fired barbecue, pulls out preserving jars from hidden cabinets and lets curious gourmets sniff at fermented forest soil, wild herbs collected from the area, truffles preserved in beeswax or fir tips pickled in vinegar. Meanwhile, on the enormous stove, a wonderfully fragrant vegetable soup is simmering in a copper-cased granite pot. An almost family ambience. Typical for a restaurant that bears the unmistakable signature of Yannick Alléno, the main course is the focus of the menu, which is often rather neglected compared to the starter or entrée. This means that guests are asked to choose their ‘plats de résistance’ first, and the rest of the menu is then composed around it. Extra wishes? No problem. Guests at the Courchevel rarely hear the word ‘no’ anyway. In addition to Barbins signature dish, steamed scallops combined with caviar or black truffles (depending on the season) and a heavenly light Bavarian cream, we also try the buttery Aveyron milk lamb with a highly aromatic ‘Sauce Moderne’ also refined with truffles and candied onions, as well as juicy lobster grilled over charcoal with a light smoky note, accompanied by an intense crustacean jus with basil. After all, the master is not least famous for his aromatic sauces, which he prefers to call extracts. In contrast, the restaurant ‘Le Farçon’, awarded a Michelin star and under the patronage of chef Julien Machet, who inherited his love of cooking from his grandmother. This establishment is much more down-to-earth, but no less outstanding, in the popular district of La Tania, which is particularly popular with British

60 years ago, during the short, high alpine summers on the steep slopes around Courchevel, only a few sheep grazed. But with the concept of ski in / ski out, which has since been copied in numerous ski resorts around the globe, i.e. with hotels built directly on the slopes and a lively centre where the most important crosscountry trails cross, Courchevel has developed within a few decades into one of the most dazzling winter sports resorts in the world. The final breakthrough came with the 1992 Winter Olympics in nearby Albertville. The town has around 45 hotels to offer today, including no less than 20 five-star lodges, three of which, like the ‘Cheval Blanc’, has been awarded the prestigious ‘Palace’ label. In addition, there are countless luxury chalets. But back to ‘Le 1947’ above, whose three Michelin stars have been shining since 2017 and which in the Gault Millau has also been awarded the dream mark of 19,5 points. Be assured, here you can enjoy the highest culinary blessings. The minimalist setting of the restaurant, which can accommodate a maximum of 22 guests, bears the signature of France’s interior design icon Sybille de Margerie and looks like a film set from a 1960s James Bond strip à la ‘Goldfinger’, which was beamed into the ‘Star Trek’ era. (Speaking of James Bond – action scenes for the Bond films ‘Tomorrow Never Dies’ and ‘Golden Eye’ have actually been filmed on Courchevel’s spectacular altiport with its 537-meter-long, steeply sloping runway.) In the open kitchen, almost as many chefs are busy as there are guests at the six white tables covered with the finest leather, which are arranged under small domes to create a kind of cocoon feeling.

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FROM THE RUSTIC FONDUE ROOM TO THE THREE-STAR RESTAURANT

Just a stone’s throw away on the Rue des Verdons, Antoine Petitcolas, with his wine boutique ‘Le Baricou’, runs the counterpart to Marina’s wine collection, because Antoine’s specialities are large bottles from the top wineries of Bordeaux as well as exclusive Burgundy and hand-picked champagnes which are difficult to find, even if you have the right budget. And even though Antoine has numerous bottles with a four-digit price tag in his portfolio, his shop seems as modest and down-to-earth as Marina’s. This pleasant mixture of down-to-earthness and luxury is also typical for many hotels in Courchevel. Hardly any establishment has more than 40 or 50 rooms, most of them built in chalet style. This is why Courchevel also stands out from many other so-called resorts in the French Alps with their concrete castles. Nevertheless, unlike in the early years, there are increasingly fewer family-run hotels – one of the last is the five-star ‘Annapurna’, run by the sister of ski legend Alexis Pinturault. All the hotels here have a laser focus on service. No customer wish remains unfulfilled and the guest to employee ratio is breathtaking by European standards, even more reminiscent of Asia. This combined with the fact that Courchevel is virtually a ghost town in the summer, so that the entire annual turnover has to be made in the four month winter season, means that the town is one of the most expensive destinations in the world. There are also cheaper addresses, but a regular double room in the five-star resort ‘Courchevel 1850’ can easily cost 1,000 euros per night. Anyway, there are no upper limits. Besides the Cheval Blanc, among the most beautiful hotels in Courchevel are the L’Apogée belonging to the Oetker Collection and the Aman Le Mélézin. At the same time, these two luxury hotels are competing culinarily for having the best Japanese restaurant in the winter sports paradise. While in L’Apogée’s chic Koori (Japanese for ice cream) under the direction of Jean-Luc Lefrançois, the focus is more on fusion cuisine. On the other hand, the minimalist Nama (which means raw in Japanese) offers authentic washoku cuisine, the aim of which is to draw out the essence of the ingredients used and ensure a perfect harmony of presentation and flavours. Both are worth a visit. Enjoy your meal!

winter sports holidaymakers. The small restaurant, which is housed in a complex of buildings in the centre that looks rather anonymous from the outside, captivates with an aromatic cuisine at the highest level inspired by regional ingredients. Here, however, the focus is not on luxury products, but Machet’s focus is on perfectly balanced plate as a work of art. And this is to be understood literally. The chef especially likes to experiment with hay, which he uses for all kinds of creations – from aperitifs, refined with homemade hay syrup, to desserts. The openly served wines from the Savoy region impressively prove that it doesn’t always have to be the big labels, just the oposite. The elegant, fruity Pinot Noir from the Ravier winery, for example, is a perfect accompaniment to a juicy fillet of veal with fine roasted onions. Speaking of insider tips. Marina Silina also has a lot of them in stock. Born in Russia, she moved to Courchevel many years ago and commands what may be the smallest wine shop in the world, ‘Les Perles du Palais’. In an area of just 13 square metres on the Rue de la Croisette, Marina offers her customers hand-picked wines, including numerous organic wines, as well as spontaneously fermented wines with a strong character, i.e. orange wine. The fact that Marina, before she discovered her love for ‘the juice of the vine’, traded with ‘treasures’ of a completely different kind which is only today revealed by the two impressive flawless brilliant-cut diamonds that flash on her earlobes. Her tiny shop has long enjoyed cult status and is considered an institution by many Courchevel fans. Some of her wealthy customers even give Marina a Carte blanche at the start of the season and trust her with the task of restocking the local wine cellar in their private chalet for the winter.

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Asian Fusion is the focus of the stylish Koori Restaurant at LʼApogée, part of the luxurious Oetker Colletion. It is best known for its exclusive sushi creations with a modern touch, which can also be enjoyed directly at the bar.

In the Nama Restaurant of Aman Le Mélézin, on the other hand, authentic Japanese washoku cuisine awaits guests, famous for the perfect harmony of its aromas.

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Tips Tourist destination Together with Méribel and Val Thorens, Courchevel forms the largest contiguous ski area in the world – Les Trois Vallées – and attracts connoisseurs with countless gourmet addresses, including seven restaurants with Michelin stars, totalling 12 stars. Holiday season The ski season lasts from mid-December to early April. How to get there By car via Geneva direction Albertville and onwards to Courchevel, or by train via Geneva to Moûtiers and onwards by taxi or shuttle. The nearest international airports are in Geneva and Lyon. Courchevel also has an airport for small private aircraft and helicopters, one of the highest and most difficult runways in Europe at 2006 metres above sea level. Information www.courchevel.com or via Atout France — French National Tourist Board at en.france.fr Hotel tips Cheval Blanc (5* Palace) – stylish ultra luxury lodge run by LVMH – www.chevalblanc.com / en / maison / courchevel LʼApogée (5*) – dazzling crown jewel in the exclusive hotel portfolio of the Oetker Collection www.oetkercollection.com / hotels / lapogee-courchevel Aman Le Mélézin (5*) – minimalist luxury with a Japanese touch www.aman.com / melezin Annapurna (5*) – family run establishment owned by the family of ski legend Alexis Pinturault www.annapurna-courchevel.com Restaurant-Tipps Le 1947 by Yannick Alléno (3*) in Hotel Cheval Blanc Le Farçon (1*) – www.lefarcon.fr Koori im Hotel LʼApogée Nama im Aman Le Mélézin

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CULI NARI UM DISARONNO

‘Disaronno wears Diesel’ is a limited edition with a dynamic and modern style. The Disaronno bottle was ‘dressed’ by Diesel in the distinctive denim cover which distinguishes this famous label.

MAX CHOCOLATIER

A tree never seen before: a trunk of dark Grand Cru chocolate and leaves of handmade hazelnut Gianduja. Fruity cranberries and gold speckles make the Christmas tree blossom even in winter.

TR EN DS

DAVIDOFF

With its Small Batches, Davidoff gives its extensive range of premium cigars additional exclusivity. The master blenders have created a range of medium to full blends of the finest and rarest tobaccos from Ecuador, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Peru and the Dominican Republic.

BALDI

This caviar bowl with hinged lid from the ‘Caterina deʼ Medici’ collection is inspired by the sumptuous tableware of the Florentine Renaissance and is a breathtaking addition to a formal dinner. Handcrafted in bronze with 24 carat gold plating.

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SURREALIST DINNER

A SURREALIST DINNER BY CHARLES KAISIN IS LIKE FALLING INTO THE RABBIT HOLE FROM ALICE IN WONDERLAND AND BEING TRANSPORTED INTO A WONDERLAND WHERE EVERYTHING IS DIFFERENT, MORE COLORFUL, MORE EXCITING AND MORE ENTERTAINING THAN IN REAL LIFE. Author_Stephanie Steinmann Images_Tobias Stahel

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‘Never believe what you see’, is Charles Kaisin’s message. A few minutes later, the tablecloth is unzipped in the middle so that both sides slip to the floor. The table is opened and an incredible treasure trove of giant, beautifully colored Duplo Legos is revealed. Who will build the highest tower? At the table all senses are engaged. ‘For every Surrealist Dinner we create a script of a hundred pages’, remarks Charles Kaisin. ‘With two hundred guests, we need a team of up to four hundred people on site, including hairdressers, make-up artists, dancers and waiters / waitresses. Orchestrating a Surrealist Dinner takes up to six months preparation time. Charles Kaisin explains his approach, ‘Whether it’s one hundred or six hundred guests, the planning remains the same’. Whoever wants to book him: The requirements for collaborating are always the same: A star chef. An extraordinary place. A central theme. A waitress or waiter for every two guests, and with every dish a new outfit for the service. Charles Kaisin compares his role as organizer of the Surrealist Dinner with that of an opera director. ‘I carefully listen to what my customers want, but I would like carte blanche. You wouldn’t ask an artist if you could possibly have the painting in a different color,’ says Charles Kaisin, who is represented by Mark Straehl and his KomVent GmbH.

‘When I was studying in Paris, I lived with the Hermés family for a year. I wanted to thank them for it, so I organized a dinner. This was my first Surrealist Dinner’, says Belgian artist, architect and designer Charles Kaisin about his beginnings. Today, his magical dinner performances for luxury brands such as Cartier, Hermés and Rolls-Royce captivate people all over the world. He staged his first happening in Zurich in front of the assembled Live Communications scene at the end of October at Hall 550. From October 2020, this industry landmark will be operated by the Migros Zurich cooperative as an event and culture hall. Charles Kaisin’s events are much more than just culinary and visual fireworks: Charles Kaisin had organized a dinner for a businessman and his friends at Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Follow ing a passage from Boccaccio’s ‘Decamerone’, all the chairs were scented with basil. At Casino Monte-Carlo, Albert de Monaco and his guests were welcomed at huge table-football and roulette tables by waitresses dressed as playing cards, and in Basel Charles Kaisin installed an inflatable castle in a church for the guests of the Belgian brand Ice-Watch.

COOPERATION WITH STAR CHEF ANDY ZAUGG AND ROLF MÜRNER

ANYTHING GOES

Andy Zaugg, who as star chef, caterer and expert taster had the perfect requirements for the culinary realization of the Surrealist Dinner, focused on ingredients from Switzerland. The autumn themed starter was actualised with whole pumpkins filled with wild mushrooms, a quail egg, chasselas grapes from Yvorne and truffles from the forests of Solothurn. The soup made from chasselas, chive puree and smoked paprika was served in round glass flasks, as found in a chemistry laboratory. The main course consisted of a combination of Swiss Shrimps with Oona caviar from the Tropenhaus Frutigen, presented on risotto, tomato confite and pesto. It was placed on a revolving stand, and from the start hidden under a bowler, impressive with its wonderful harmony of aromas and textures. Courageous and delicate at the same time: a jersey blue praline with roasted hazelnuts on a sablé, along with a jelly made from Aargauer Port wine by Susi Steiger-Wehrli, which by the way, was awarded this autumn by GaultMillau. ‘For me personally, the Surrealist Dinner was more than just catering a major culinary event. It was an experience that was also unique thanks to the creativity of Charles Kaisin, the spectacular Hall 550 and the intensive collaboration with Mark Straehl’, explained Andy Zaugg. The dessert came from Rolf Mürner, Pâtissier World Champion, and was met with great enthusiasm. Well protected within a golden confectionery package was hidden a dream of piura porcelana chocolate, blackcurrants, passion fruit, olives and pears, which in the very next moment floated towards the ceiling of Hall 550, carried away by golden balloons as if by magic.

For the Surrealist Dinner in Zurich Charles Kaisin adopted Hall 550’s slogan ‘anything goes’. Hall 550 will open in the autumn of 2020 as the most modern event platform in Switzerland. The core element is a flexible room concept where areas can be used individually or in combination. In addition, there will be state-of-the-art technology, catering areas and services that as planned have not yet been offered in Switzerland. Anything goes-Charles Kaisin takes the Zurich guests on a journey that begins at a huge blackboard, artfully decorated in orange. Waitresses and waiters are dressed as gardeners, golden time travelers from another galaxy or men in black from the past: and every three or four minutes something else happens at your table. Every detail is well thought out and contains references to literature, art, history, fashion, opera or music. Indeed, it is difficult in the moment to grasp all the nuances and decipher the clues so you have no choice but to simply allow yourself to be immersed in this fantastical world. At the long table one is not only a guest, but you feel part of the action. And because the Surrealist Dinner with its multitude of references is so complex it is impossible to capture it in its entirety the same evening, so each guest receives a handmade brochure for the happening, both as a souvenir and as an explanation of the dinner performance.

A TABLE IS A TABLE

In honour of the ‘inventor of culinary surrealism’, the photographer Lee Miller who stored snowballs in her icebox just in case her guests wanted to have a snowball fight, the table becomes a race track for a model Citroën-2CV after the main course. There is also a platform on its roof carrying a cheese plate, and when seen from above, gives the impression of cheese pralines on wheels.

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Maison Belle Époque Welcome to the world of Perrier-Jouët Author_Swenja Willms Images_Perrier-Jouët

‘BELLE ÉPOQUE’, I.E. THE TIME OF THE GREAT BOOM OF SCIENCE, ART AND CULTURE BEFORE THE OUTBREAK OF THE FIRST WORLD WAR. THE NAME SAYS IT ALL. WITHIN THESE FOUR WALLS OF THE MAISON BELLE ÉPOQUE, THE HISTORY OF TWO HOUSES UNFOLDS. THE HISTORY OF MAISON PERRIER-JOUËT, FOUNDED IN 1811 BY THE MARRIAGE OF PIERRE-NICOLAS PERRIER AND ROSE-ADÉLAÏDE JOUËT, WHO UNITED THEIR PASSION FOR ART AND NATURE IN A UNIQUE VISION OF CHAMPAGNE. THE MAISON BELLE ÉPOQUE IS TODAY THE LIVING EXPRESSION NOT ONLY OF MAISON PERRIER’S 200-YEAR-OLD HERITAGE, BUT ALSO OF ITS ENDURING PHILOSOPHY. The shuttle stops in the middle of an idyllic French town. Funny, because without exception, everyone who is part of this press trip has expected the Maison would be located in the middle of the countryside of peaceful Champagne. In fact, however, the Maison Belle Époque is located in the middle of the small town of Épernay, on the Avenue de Champagne. The most prestigious champagne Maisons in France are lined up here – 35 in all. These include the production plant and the former home of the founders of Perrier-Jouët.

Succession has been arranged: Hervé Deschamps is succeeded by Séverine Frerson, the first female cellar master appointed by Perrier-Jouët.

HARMONIOUS ENSEMBLE The Maison Belle Époque brings together the greatest names in Art Nouveau. Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Rose-Adélaïde Jouët once lived here, but today it is much more than a home. Since 1990, thanks to a project by Pierre Ernst, the current CEO of Perrier-Jouët, it has been transformed into an enchanting guest house: The Maison Belle Époque offers a fantastic experience, a journey into the aesthetics and poetry of Art Nouveau. It took eight years to acquire and restore the furniture and ornaments that are now on site. With more than 200 works and unique pieces created by outstanding Art Nouveau artists such as Louis Majorelle, Hector Guimard, René Lalique and Auguste Rodin, this place exudes a very special charm. The house provides accommodation for the largest private collection of French Art Nouveau in Europe and exceptional exhibits by the leading representatives of the movement. Even in the 13-kilometre-long cellar labyrinth, works of art are hidden that will amaze visitors. Here, about eleven metres below the earth’s surface, the stored champagne bottles are lined up. In addition to cuvées, which can be found

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in the standard range, decades-old champagnes are also stored here. It is cold and humid this deep underground. And dark. What causes a little discomfort for most visitors is sheer routine for Hervé Deschamps. As cellar master of Perrier-Jouët, Deschamps spends his time here every day in the dark. Remarkably, Maison Perrier-Jouët has had only seven cellarmasters since its foundation, more than two centuries ago. This exceptional degree of continuity makes it possible to acquire unparalleled expertise and reveal the quintessence of the Chardonnay. In 1993, Hervé Deschamps was appointed seventh cellar master of Perrier-Jouët. Since then he has been responsible for the production of the entire Perrier-Jouët collection, including Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut, Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé and the legendary Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque, Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Rosé and Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Blanc de Blancs-Cuvées. He sees the mixing of different wines as a creative process: ‘I go straight to the mix, just like an artist who trusts in the inexplicable fusion of intuition, sensibility and skill’. THE HANDOVER OF THE KEYS After more than 20 years, Hérve Deschamps has now handed over his position to Séverine Frerson, the first woman to become cellar master after Rose-Adélaïde Jouët. But there’s no pressure on this successor: ‘For me it’s not a burden, it’s a great honour to do this job. Rose-Adélaïde was an impressive woman, and I will always look up to her. Besides her touching love story with Pierre-Nicolas, Rose-Adélaïde Jouët was an independent woman with character, just like me. She was a great source of inspiration, not only as a woman, but also as the first cellar master of Perrier-Jouët’, said Frerson. Hervé Deschamps himself made the choice of the new cellar master. A special factor played the leading role in the decision, as Deschamps explains: ‘I chose Séverine as my successor precisely because we are on the same wavelength in terms of taste and intuition. We share the same values. This is no different for wine than it is for car enthusiasts, for example. Some like Peugeot, others Mercedes’. The handover of the position from Hervé Deschamps to Séverine Frerson will take a full two years. A long enough period of time to guarantee that the tradition, history, knowledge and skills are accurately passed on. ‘The most important time during these two years are the respective harvests. The grape harvest in our vineyards comes only once a year, in the autumn. This is the time when knowledge and skill are most in demand. Between the harvests we have time for new creations’, emphasises Frerson. The next day we stand in the middle of the vineyards and taste the grapes of the ‘Blanc de Blancs’ variety. The harvest is done by hand and then transported to the press in the neighbouring wineries. Here, at the origin of champagne, our journey ends, exactly as it began: with a glass of champagne.

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THE MAISON BELLE Ã&#x2030;POQUE OFFERS A FANTASTIC EXPERIENCE, A JOURNEY INTO THE AESTHETICS AND POETRY OF ART NOUVEAU.

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GREETINGS FROM THE STAR KITCHEN

Author_Andy Zaugg Image_José R. Martinez

The best shrimps are caught in the wild? That’s not incorrect, but it isn’t entirely the truth! European aquacultures have been delivering great results for several years now. I was already able to test the first Swiss Shrimps. Today they are bred in Rheinfelden in a species-appropriate manner without the use of antibiotics. They are only fished to order. The first thing that stands out about the Swiss Shrimps is their blue-grey colour. They are translucent, firm, elastic, crunchy and tender. The sweet fresh shrimp aroma leaves nothing to be desired. I give them a ‘very good’ in appearance, smell, consistency and feel in the mouth. Privately and for my caterings I prefer to serve them sautéed. This is how I prepare their delicate sweetness. With heat, Swiss Shrimps, which were still swimming in salt water 24 hours ago, change colour. The shimmering grey-blue becomes orange. But you don’t really have to sauté them. With their sashimi quality, they also taste excellent

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raw. It is not for nothing that many top chefs banned shrimp from their menus. The reputation of their production in Asia, and also their quality, left much to be desired. Today, however, completely new agricultural forms are being developed. They bring production closer to consumers and thus guarantee freshness. Shrimp breeding has found its home on the grounds of the Riburg Saltworks in Rheinfelden. The heat for the salt water basins comes from waste heat from the Swiss saltworks, and the salt for the water mixture is also obtained from there. Swiss Shrimps thus combine top quality with innovation and sustainability. That’s very good. But in the end it’s the people who make the difference, and I admire the young entrepreneurs at Swiss Shrimps for their courage and steadfastness. They have successfully implemented their vision of the Swiss Shrimp. It is to be hoped that not only the blue ones but also the pioneering spirit of the young entrepreneurs will set a precedent.

Allez les Bleus!

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Author_Helena Ugrenovic Images_Gerbeaud Gastronomy Ltd

THE STARS OF BUDAPEST

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a jewel of neo-baroque aesthetics. A temple of haute cuisine, where culinary delights are aesthetically arranged into works of art that seduce both palate and senses. Presented by a crew that you would like to pack up and take home so you can be pampered every day. Onyx Budapest. In the heart of the city and Hungaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only restaurant where two Michelin stars shine. 173

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It is a relatively small restaurant with 55 seats, which creates a pleasant intimate atmosphere, situated next to the company’s legendary Gerbeaud Confectionery on Vörösmarty Square. Dark wallpaper with opulent ornaments, huge glass panels, high ceilings, majestically imposing armchairs in a neo-baroque style while combined with modern design which speaks the same language as Onyx’s kitchen which combines tradition with innovation. THE STAR WHISPERER The first Michelin star was snapped up by Onyx in 2016 under the culinary direction of Szabina Szullo and Tamás Széll. Three years later the second Michelin star now shines under gourmet master Ádám Mészáros. A master of his trade, who at the age of 10, already felt the desire to become a chef. Perhaps it is because he spent most of his youth cooking with his mother. In 2002 he attended secondary school and later enrolled in the Vocational School of Gastronomy, studying cooking in the hope of practising his love of cooking as a profession. When he finished his studies in 2006, with a degree in professional training, he worked for three years in three well-known Budapest restaurants, ‘Trió’, ‘Matteo’ and ‘Costes’, having learnt on the job technical subtleties and much about the culinary industry. After completing this specialist training, Mészáros worked for 18 months at ‘Costes’, which in spring 2010 had received its first Michelin star in the Hungarian edition of the Michelin Guide. In August 2011, Mészáros was offered a role in Onyx’s acclaimed kitchen, with its Michelin star, and three years later he was promoted to Chef de Partie. A short time later, he found himself the right-hand man and sous chef of the master chef, assisting him in all matters. Mészáros was then given more responsibility and freedom, where he began to create dishes for the renowned restaurant.

REACHING FOR THE STARS In 2016, Ádám Mészáros completed a stay at the luxury hotel and gourmet restaurant ‘Serge Vieira’ in France. This master works with passion with the harmony of the aromas and products from Auvergne and creates his dishes with heart and soul, like the designer he would have liked to have been. It is the perfect place and the master’s knowledge and passion are so inspiring for Ádám Mészáros that he himself becomes a master chef. After his return to Budapest, he took the place of the retired chef at Onyx. Not only did he keep the top quality of the restaurant in his lead position, but he also improved upon it. Under his leadership Onyx was awarded its second Michelin star. This was a first in Hungary. The ‘Maître’ is in fact the chef of this Restaurant Serve Vieira. And he and his gourmet restaurant are so inspiring for Adam that he becomes himself a perfect chef. THE FUSION OF TRADITION AND INNOVATION The restaurant’s philosophy is to create in Hungary a high standard of quality international cuisine, where guests can meet tradition and innovation through this food. The chef and his crew have invested a lot of energy in researching the best regional ingredients and combining them with the latest technology and cuisine. The result is dishes that are innovative, complex and a feast for the palate. Onyx has created two different 6-course menus, one based on local products of the highest quality and the other on the creativity and imagination of the chefs.

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Guide Michelin It is the international reference among all hotel and gastronomy guides, first published in 1900 and with a circulation of 35,000 copies in France. In Europe, the Michelin Guide employs a total of 85 critics who work for twelve European restaurant and hotel guides across borders. The evaluation c riteria include the consistent quality of the ingredients and their freshness; their professional preparation; the harmony of the f lavour combinations; and the innovation and uniqueness of the dishes; and how this is ref lected in creativity and with a personal touch. On average, 3,800 restaurants and 5,000 hotels are visited every 18 months, those with one star more frequently. In the German edition of the guide, the meaning of the stars is described as follows: one star: ‘A kitchen full of finesse’ worth a stop’; two stars: ‘A top-class kitchen, worth a detour’; three stars: ‘A unique kitchen, worth a trip’. Cities with the most Michelin star restaurants Although its origins lie in France, Paris only ranks second among the top ten with 141 star restaurants, being swept away by Tokyo which has had the top position firmly under control for years and currently has 308 star restaurants. With Kyoto in third place, Osaka in fourth place, Hong Kong, Singapore and Shanghai in sixth, ninth and tenth place, Asia easily dominates the Michelin guide’s starry sky. New York and San Francisco are represented in the USA with places five and eight. Besides Paris, London is the second European city and seventh among the top ten.

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SNACKIFICATION

A NEW WAVE OF TRENDS FOR THE YEAR 2020 IS TAKING HOLD OF THE CULINARY WORLD. THE TERM ‘SNACKIFICATION’ DESCRIBES NEW INSIGHTS INTO OUR EATING HABITS. WE PREFER TO EAT MORE OFTEN, BUT IN SMALLER PORTIONS. THESE THREE VARIATIONS ARE THE ONES WE MOST FREQUENTLY USE: ON THE GO

Snacks don’t always have to be small mini-portions. Even a burger, put together in your own kitchen or from a food truck on the road, counts as a snack. A black burger bun not only acts as an eye-catcher, but also helps the body to make toxins and bacteria harmless through the activated carbon it contains.

HEARTY OR SWEET

Mix and Match is the motto for the arrangement of bowls. Simple, healthy or sweet ingredients such as quinoa, vegetables, fruit, legumes or fish are thrown together to create a balanced and varied snack.

SUMMERY

These raw vegetable sticks wrapped in rice paper are a light snack par excellence. Filled with salad, chicken or crunchy vegetable variations and a spicy peanut sauce, summer rolls are quick to prepare and can be easily stowed away in Tupperware for on the go.

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Garage door systems and hinged doors Project hinged doors and frames Industrial door systems Docking and logistics systems

DIGITAL BUILDING PLANNING USING THE BIM METHOD www.novoferm.ch

With BIM-compatible planning data, Novoferm Schweiz Ltd. is perfectly prepared for the next future trend in construction: Building Information Modeling (BIM). With this software-based method for building planning, a virtual 3D model of the object is generated before start of construction on the screen, which bundles all planning data. This gives all parties involved simultaneous access to all data. You can download our BIM data at www.buildup.ch

Scan QR code and get in touch with us!

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FINANCE HUBLOT

Hublot loves Capri. That’s why the new ‘Classic Fusion Chronograph Special Edition Capri’ in innovative sky-blue ceramic, available in a limited edition in 2019, is dedicated to the unique atmosphere and breathtaking panoramas of the island.

T R E N D S

GIORGIO ARMANI

Elegant cuff links in azure enamelled silver. Contrasting enamel appliqué with the logo of Giorgio Armani.

MONTBLANC

The masterpiece ‘Calligraphy Maki-e Limited Edition 88’ is a tribute to Japanese art of the centuries-old artistic heritage of Chisō, one of the leading YuzenKimono studios, founded in 1555.

GIOBAGNARA

‘Ettore Marble Backgammon’ consisting of a marble tray with reversible leather cover and walnut playing stones.

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A HUNGRY DOG HUNTS BEST Author_Elmar Mock

DO WE REALLY UNDERSTAND WHAT BREAKTHROUGH INNOVATION IS ALL ABOUT? ONE THING IS FOR CERTAIN, INNOVATION IS THE ENGINE OF ANY MODERN SOCIETY. PROFESSIONAL INNOVATORS ARE A DRIVING FORCE IN OUR SWISS ECONOMY. SWITZERLANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PENCHANT FOR INNOVATION ALSO REFLECTS A NATIONAL CHARACTER INCLINED TOWARDS PROBLEM SOLVING. INNOVATION IS NEEDED TO CREATE VALUE FOR CLIENTS, CONSUMERS, THE COMPANY AND SOCIETY OVERALL. TODAY, A MAJOR DIFFICULTY CONFRONTING ANY CREATIVE PROFESSIONAL IS THE INCREDIBLE CAPACITY THAT HUMAN SOCIETY HAS OF PUTTING UP WITH DISTURBANCES OR OF SIMPLY BEING HAPPY WITH LIMITED SOLUTIONS. IN 2019 THE DRIVE TO INVENT IS MORE POWERFUL THAN EVER, BUT REPEATING THE PROCESS IS NOT THAT SIMPLE.

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and then gradually expanding its radius. The dog repeats this process as the hunter moves through the field. Some trainers train the dog to stay motionless while the hunter steps forward and flushes out the game. Or the hunter uses a tracking dog who will work much more closely with the hunter. The setter dog silently searches for the game by scent; hunting is done systematically and methodically. When prey is encountered the dog freezes rather than chase after the game. The colleague who has an innate instinct to point at the target by stopping and aiming, is capable of searching through the dense forest of the business world for any tell-tale signs of game. They are great at sniffing out leads. These people keep their nose to the ground and their eyes and ears open at all times. Their sharp intellect allows them to connect the dots and have foresight in finding leads. These people not only focus on the next week or month, but also they think 10 to 15 years ahead. And like the pointer dog, their friendliness allows them to get on with potential clients. The retriever fetches the game after it has been shot and returns it to the hunter undamaged. They are bred for having gentle mouths and a great willingness to please, learn, and obey. (A gentle mouth refers to the willingness of the dog to carry the game in its mouth without biting into it.) Producing a group of well-trained retrievers capable of performing the tasks outlined above requires a significant amount of time and effort. Training intelligent, controllable, and open-to-learning retriever colleagues is of utmost importance.

Innovators do not want tomorrow to be a continuation of today. They go about changing the way they think in order to create new ideas that are considered impossible or unacceptable. They create new things, new concepts. Innovators do not go truffle hunting on the highway. They take the backroads, the ones that nobody ever takes. It sounds simple enough but ending up on the right road is somewhat more complicated. And when their innovation finally hits the market, they build a new highway that allows you to go faster than everybody else, keeping ahead by continuously innovating. Being able to fly in the fast lane, with the top performers or competitors. RUN WITH THE BIG DOGS Many companies know that they need to be innovative to survive, but they are suspicious of innovation because it is always risky. This risk is not only a financial one but also a philosophical one of sorts because you have to accept a certain amount of uncertainty as well as the probability that the result will not correspond to the initial plan and everything might end up in failure. Faced with these fears, renovation prevails over innovation. A lot of companies say they hunt for innovation, but the vast majority effectively only fish for renovation. Indeed, the scientific, technological and managerial culture of the West is built on the improvement of everthing. A lot of us dream of revolution, but we tend to work towards evolution. In this regard, it is crucial to find the right people with character, competency, and compatibility for the innovation process. Finding the right people is vital to the success-skills that are needed, not necessarily in the same field, but you must also find people willing to take the plunge who are motivated, trustworthy, ambitious, and experienced. They have to learn how to play with concepts and knowledge in an atmosphere of constructive conflict. Today too many entrepreneurs, especially in start-ups, are their own worst enemy, trying to do everything themselves. Concepts must evolve and new nonlinear thinking must be attained. Too many of us were schooled in linear thinking. Innovation does indeed need preparation and structure, but not in a linear manner. There are many similarities between innovation and hunting: you need to scout, hunt, and retrieve. To innovate you have to act like a hunter, but you are always hunting for the unknown. You never know what you will find. Innovation is not about asking the client what he wants, but more about being the first to offer him what he might need. Choosing the right colleague who will have to explore, to scout, is like the seasoned hunter who has to find the right dog to accomplish the task at hand. Hunting dogs often have skills which extend beyond the tasks outlined for their classification. Depending upon how they are trained, dogs may be useful in a variety of hunting situations. The right colleague in the right place will also be vital in the hunting process within the world of innovation. Innovation requires both aptitude and attitude. Aptitude is exploitation and attitude is exploration. Innovation is the joining of these two forces. Exploration combined with exploitation produces innovation.

TWO DOGS CAN KILL A LION You never know what game you will find when you go off with your dog into the wild. What is important is to ‘get going’, to go out there and to ‘start hunting’. Start things moving. You don’t just have one objective, one prey in mind. The target changes once you are on the move. An interesting example is Smixin. The game we were hunting was something able to reduce the risks of epidemics. Smixin systems are therefore contact-free and have a unique built-in soap mechanism which eliminates the risk of germ transmission and contamination. Smixin aims to meet the needs of the present, without compromising the ability of future generations to meet theirs. Smixin systems consume significantly less resources such as water, soap and paper. Smixin has become an eco-friendly hand-washing system and has made us aware of the value of water. We went back out into the wild in search of a product that would reduce water consumption in the bathroom. ‘Gjosa’ was born out of this need to save water and has become an environmental innovation company that believes in technology as a force for good. Today ‘Gjosa’ is building a new generation of products that integrate this technology to deliver innovative experiences, for example improving the hairdresser experience for professional salons. Whilst working on these two products we became aware of the fact that a great amount of energy is wasted in our showers. Joulia, a shower with heat recovery, was created. The ‘Joulia’ shower drain reclaims valuable thermal energy from used shower water. It is not only a modern innovation; it is also a conscious use of energy and a contribution toward conserving our natural resources. All of these three companies are environmental innovation companies that believe in technology as a driving force that will build a more sustainable tomorrow. And not reaching the initial target allowed us to reach something else. We went hunting for a grouse and came home with a pheasant, a rabbit and a lion. The aim is to follow a path and achieve better goals along the

WORKING LIKE A DOG The innovator, upon reaching the field, will direct his colleague, like a hunting dog, to progressvely move in a widening circle. The dog then begins to work back and forth, first close to the hunter

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toys and projects up his sleeve to keep them entertained. Although most individual retrievers have the raw capacity to be trained to perform as a hunting dog, a significant amount of thought and effort must be given to breeding-in specific desired traits into dogs from field bred lines that greatly enhance the training process. As with the hunting dog, special attention should be paid as to whether it is a colleague who takes over the field work. Some companies train their hunting colleagues to be versatile like the European HPR breeds (they can hunt, point, and retrieve). These breeds were developed to find and point to game as does all pointing breeds, but were also bred to perform other hunting tasks as well. This distinction likely arose because while the British developed breeds which specialized in tasks such as pointing, chasing, and retrieving, in continental Europe, the same dog was trained to be able to perform each of these tasks

way. Above all, it is not from talking about the goal that we reach it. It is in doing that you reach it. IT’S A DOG’S LIFE! A hungry dog, a hungry colleague, hunts best. When they have a job to do, they don’t mess around. They invest time, effort and commitment to ensure the job is done, and done right. They are known for having the tenacity to adapt and exceed expectations at work. But don’t forget that establishing a strong bond with your hunting colleague is essential. Hunting colleagues need active bosses. They need lots of mental stimulation and thrive on human companionship. They love variety, plus plenty of freedom and exploration in safe areas-this is why training is important. Every manager of creative people has to make sure that he gives them what they need, and he must have plenty of inventor

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are pushed to their limits in order to innovate. Being able to stay calm when facing all different types of wild game is essential for a good hunting dog. Organizing the innovation process is vital. Choosing the right colleagues is essential. Deciding on the game is hypothetical. No one knows what they will bring back home. Not many people are good at all of the activities of hunting, scouting, pointing and retrieving. For instance, a great scout may fall short when it comes to hunting. So, as a leader, manage your team in the best possible way and delegate wisely. Avoid competition between your colleagues and create a special bond with them. If you are lucky enough to be working with someone who is good at all the hunting activities, do not let him / her be poached by a competitor. In innovation, what it really takes to succeed, is to keep your eye on the game and be resourceful in tackling any unexpected factors that can and will crop up, for the competition is fierce and if you are not careful, the hunter can become the hunted!

(albeit less effectively). The professional inventor is a HPR breed. When two dogs fight over a bone, a third one carries it away... Hunting, pointing, retrieving contributes to the growth of a company. The purpose of hunting is to go out in the world, identify the targets and add new customers / projects. How often you hunt depends on how hungry you are. Your success rate will vary and there are times you may go hungry for a while. Early settlers travelled hundreds or thousands of miles to start a new life. The first thing they probably did after erecting some type of lodging was hunt for food. I doubt they merely planted a few crops and waited until spring before having their first meal. Yet, that’s what many new businesses and start-ups do, they’ve been told that social media and marketing is where it’s at … and they starve before spring arrives. A HUNGRY DOG HUNTS BEST So how hungry are you? Early settlers in America needed to make a kill immediately in order to survive. If you’re just starting out, you need to do the same. As with the challenges faced by any hunter in the field, the good innovator has to break with tradition. Risks must be taken. Discussion and even dissent must be encouraged. It is a well-known fact that in periods of war, crisis and times of recession people

WWW.MOCK-KETT.CH WWW.SMIXIN.COM WWW.GJOSA.COM WWW.JOULIA.COM WWW.CREAHOLIC.COM

ELMAR MOCK IS CO-INVENTOR OF SWATCH AND FOUNDER OF THE CREAHOLIC INNOVATION FACTORY BASED IN BIEL, SWITZERLAND. HE IS A SERIAL INNOVATOR, WRITER AND ‘LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT FINALIST’ OF THE ‘EUROPEAN INVENTOR AWARDS 2017’.

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PRESTIGE Author_Wilma Fasola

CRYPTOCURRENCY – WHO, HOW & WHAT FACEBOOK WANTS TO HAVE ITS OWN, BITCOIN IS NOW A DAILY ROUTINE AND ALMOST EVERY DAY WE ARE PROVIDED WITH OTHER NEWS ABOUT CRYPTOCURRENCY. WE HAD AN IT EXPERT EXPLAIN TO US THE INSANITY SURROUNDING THE DIGITAL PAYMENT METHOD AND ITS HOME, THE BLOCKCHAIN.

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Who owns Blockchain? It is often said that it belongs to everyone, but no, it belongs to itself. Blockchain is the first independently viable autonomous software algorithm. You have to imagine that it is like a foundation. A foundation does not belong to anyone. Blockchain belongs to itself. As long as new Bitcoins are created through their use, a blockchain is able to support itself by paying its own operating costs at data centers. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like any other capital company: When the money runs out, it's over.

Christoph Holz has made timely investments in some of the most successful Bitcoin companies in the world. As a keynote speaker and TV expert, he shares his knowledge with a broad audience. His remarks on the effects, possibilities and possible dangers of digitisation provide a new perspective on a topic that concerns all of us: cryptocurrency. PRESTIGE: Mr. Holz, cryptocurrency: Why was it invented? CHRISTOPH HOLZ: As an information technician, I first came into contact with a cryptocurrency in 1994. As IT experts, we knew that the Internet could only work if there was an Internet currency, so in order to pay for things you would not need to rely on third-party systems such as credit card companies. Above all, however, it needed a system that could settle small amounts without exorbitant transaction fees. At that time, passwords were issued that had a certain equivalent value. If the total amount was not invested all at once, a new password would be issued with the open securities account. The only catch: I could also pay somewhere else with my first password.

What does it mean for the future of money? Money has two functions. Firstly, to enable efficient markets to make the economy work. The focus is on the exchange of products. And secondly, is money driving innovation via the price function? If something becomes cheaper, such as artificial intelligence, we think about what else we could use it for. In our case, by letting it drive, which wasn't even talked about years ago. If, in return, something becomes more expensive, such as lithium, we look for alternatives. First of all, money does not need a state. But for the state, money is important in order to collect taxes. The state takes sovereignty over territorial money and thus also over its inhabitants. The Internet is a global system that basically does not need a state to function. Internet money therefore knows no boundaries.

Who invented it? To solve this problem of a missing micropayment system, Satoshi Nakamoto invented a solution in 2008 with the decentralized system of blockchain. It is certain that Nakamoto is a pseudonym. Who stands behind it is still an open question today.

What should banks be afraid of ? There will always be banks, but whether they are the same entities that exist today is the question. Banks have the task of managing money efficiently. However, we can assume that the form of money will change. Money was invented some 5,000 years ago by the Sumerians. They wrote down how much everyone had and invented deposited money. At some point this became database money. But basically, money was already just a record on a cuneiform tablet. However, this money was centralized. First in the temple, later in the bank. Cryptocurrency, on the other hand, is based on a decentralized system and is secured by encryption. Actually, banks also need cryptocurrencies. These are so-called Xchanges or Wallet providers. Whereby one must say: even cryp-

How does it work? The technology behind it is called blockchain which is a database. It says who has how much. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the same as with my bank. But there are tens of thousands of copies in blockchain, which is why it is so slow. Whenever I make a transaction and thus an entry, it is transferred to all databases in the entire system. Naturally, that takes time. Instead of a traditional database, the data records are stored decentrally and it is practically impossible to change them afterwards. Blockchain is a kind of list that grows with each entry, because no record is ever deleted and thus all transactions are always traceable and tamper-proof.

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tocurrency is not the last word on the subject. We already know today that there are efficient markets without money. For example, there is a supply of donor kidneys and a demand. This is a real market. But for moral reasons, we don’t use money to bring supply and demand together, instead, we use blood type, age, urgency and other data to find the best match.

giants. And they ensure security in their systems as does a state. There are armies of cyber experts defending Facebook’s external borders. If you violate the laws, i.e. the terms of use, you can be expatriated. That sounds a lot like a state. The only thing missing is money. The state is the way we organize our society, and digitisation brings new forms of government.

Why does Mark Zuckerberg need his own currency? So that he can finally create a real state with more than two billion inhabitants. I am Austrian and a German citizen. My Austrian identity is linked to my birth, my driving licence and my matura. My German identity is connected with my studies and my work. And my FB identity is my timeline. Identity used to be reserved for the state. Today it is also provided by the big digital

Why are there so many Libra opponents? The decision makers behind Facebook have gambled away society’s trust. Facebook has to win it back. Libra fits well into this strategy, as it is certainly also a measure to improve its image. On the other hand, Libra solves a problem we don’t have in the Western world. In the Philippines, for example, there are twice as many Facebook accounts as there are bank accounts. So there are

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euros, only 400 billion arrive. The rest remains with the banks as transfer fees. Alternatively, in the future it will be possible to transfer a voucher for money via smartphone. This can be an Amazon voucher or a Libra voucher. This can be exchanged for pesos at the mobile banker in your neighbourhood. From my point of view Libra can only fail if Mastercard, Vodafone or other Libra partners get cold feet. If this does not happen, Libra has a good chance of becoming a leader in these home remittances.

a lot of people who don’t have access to banking services. And in India, it’s standard for banks to cheat their customers. If you can’t rely on your bank it’s understandable that Facebook enjoys more trust there than the regional bank branch. And so it’s easy to imagine that in emerging and developing countries Libra is undermining the leading currency which also has serious consequences for our companies doing business with these countries. Libra is therefore a healthy competitor for the established monetary systems, and states react to competition with discrimination.

And what do we have to be most afraid of in view of digitalisation? As long as politics remains proud of its own slowness, it will still lag a few decades behind reality. The biggest danger is that misunderstood regulations will damage long-term welfare gains for all.

What problem does it solve? People who work for us transfer around 500 billion euros every year back home. That is more than any development aid, more than any kind of direct investment. But of these 500 billion

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EGOISM ALLOWED!

TO FOLLOW YOUR OWN PATH WITH A HEALTHY EGOISM IS ONE OF THE BEST CONDITIONS FOR SUCCESS. THE WORKSHOP ‘I DO IT MY WAY’ MOTIVATES A WOMAN TO BE SELFDETERMINED FOR HER OWN GOALS AND DESIRES. A SELF-EXPERIMENT. ‘It is a safe space. There are no men who look at you pityingly when you ask a question.’ This is what Matthias Schranner, the world-renowned expert for difficult negotiations writes in his foreword to the seminar ‘I DO IT MY WAY’. He refers to the feedback of the participants who had already attended his negotiation workshop launched by his institute in 2018. In three cities, in three countries, he and the invited external speakers gave their insights into their approach to negotiations, always with the aim that women must stand up for themselves more, for their wishes and for their goals. But what makes this seminar so different from the numerous other offers in which women are specifically motivated to do more for themselves and their goals? Is it just the fact that besides Matthias Schranner and the psychologist Dr. Klaus Lassert who is the speaker, no other men are present? Or is it the selection of really interesting female speakers, who share their personal, practical experiences far removed from any theories? Or perhaps it’s the exciting fact of learning from someone who used to negotiate with hostage-takers and those who are trying to commit suicide. The answer is that it’s best to try it out for yourself. This is what happened at the end of October in the last of three workshops in Zurich.

Author_Wilma Fasola

CONFLICTS-WOMEN MUST LEARN TO LOVE THEM Matthias Schranner welcomes the 50 participants punctually at 9 a.m., the guy who once worked as an undercover policeman in a drug squad and after training by the FBI became an expert in difficult negotiations. Today he heads the Schranner Negotiation Institute with offices in Zurich, New York, Hong Kong and Dubai. Together with his team of approximately 40 people, he supports big international players from business and politics to successfully succeed in their difficult negotiations. On this Friday he advises us women and makes clear what’s called for in the room: Be more egoistic! Learn to love conflict and do not be afraid to consciously escalate a negotiation. Yes, but don’t women think at this point that negotiations are about both sides ending up going home with a good feeling? The classic win-win situation? Schranner answers: ‘In difficult negotiations that just doesn’t happen. In difficult negotiations there can only be one winner’.

EGOISM DESIRED!

NEGOTIATIONS-WOMAN MUST MAKE DEMANDS In summary, at the beginning of the workshop he presents the negotiation method named after him: the Schranner Concept. The main thing is to negotiate for something and not against someone. It is about making demands and not trying to convince through arguments. ‘In a world where everyone has their own personal value system, you will not be able to change others’ minds with your personal opinion’, he says. ‘Being right is not negotiation and you can entirely forget about your counterpart will finally become reasonable’.

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FINANCE

Asked whether women and men negotiate differently, he is not evasive in his response, but instead directs the focus right to the subject at hand. Froma his perspective, there are two types of negotiating partners: the causal and rational thinking one. The guy who bases everything on logical conclusions who doesn’t get it that he won’t get the salary increase he wants for the work already done this past year. And on the other hand, the player, the one who, simply for the joy of the conflict, makes impossible demands in negotiations. Current example: Donald Trump. However, Schranner also admits that there is a difference between female and male negotiation: Men seek conflict within the conflict. They go into negotiations and look forward to friction. Women, on the other hand, already come with the final solution. Because a woman’s strongest opponent in negotiations is usually, herself. Before anything even starts, a woman has already thought through a thousand possible outcomes. But guessing what the other person may want or how the negotiation could proceed is completely out of place. It is better to see the whole situation as a sporting competition, as a test of strength, taking place on the pitch and not happening in the dressing room without being able to see your opponent. REALIZING IDEAS-THE NO-GO OF SOCIETY Those who listened to the two invited speakers, shortly afterwards understand why having a sporting drive is definitely a good basis for success. ‘It’s not about being dogged’, says Tanja Schildknecht, who 15 years ago set up the first Zurich Film Fest despite massive resistance. This is an event that today is of international importance and attracts the very best actors, directors and musicians to the Limmat once a year. An event that, in the early days, was literally a passion project. ‘When we thought we had crossed one hurdle, the next would come. Everyone tried to put the brakes on us, politicians, the canton, city, and special interest groups’, recalled the 46-year-old. ‘But I always remained stubborn. In my opinion, negotiation needs strength and perseverance’. ‘In addition, what’s also needed is a huge amount of selfconfidence’, added Nicole Schindelar Schildknecht. The 32-yearold Munich native took over her father’s scrap yard at the age of 27. Passing away unexpectedly, her dad left a legacy that basically she was unable to deal with. But at the same time, she felt an emotional urge as well as pressure to accept it anyway, against all warnings. Even her mother advised her against it. But she still says today: ‘I knew I had to’. Five words that changed her life from that point onwards. And no, not for the better and easier. It became

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difficult, damn difficult. The sword of Damocles, of failure, hovered over her. Constantly on the verge of insolvency, employees suddenly found themselves working under this little blonde girl they had seen stumbling across the scrap yard in rubber boots as a toddler. Every day was a battle, against herself, the stumbling blocks and people who did not agree with her actions. LIFE GOALS-ARE A MAP ONLY WHEN CLEARLY DEFINED As different as the lives of the two women may seem at first glance, they demonstrate that it is always about the same thing. Both have consistently gone their own way and have always seen the numerous mistakes they have made as an oportunity-just as difficult as it once was for Don Quixote who fought against windmills. However, both have impressively proven that belief in oneself and perseverance are powerful weapons and that it is worth it not only to set goals, but also to fight stubbornly to achieve them. In every situation a goal is only good if it is actually set way too high. ‘Healthy egoism is absolutely legitimate’, says Dr. Klaus Lassert shortly after his lecture. ‘This means taking responsibility for oneself, taking care of oneself. Moving away from being the victim to being the actor’, says the renowned psychologist. ‘Numerous subconsciously intervening mechanisms prevent us from standing up for our wishes and needs’, he continues. ‘It isn’t others who prevent us from doing things that we wish to do, it is us, ourselves, who stand in our own way and this is more often than not true for women more so than for men. Why is this? Because women often start negotiations without realising that the other person is not yet in the room. Or because they are not candid and ask the wrong questions. ’It’s not about questioning how others should see you’, says Lassert. ‘It’s about who you are, so we are back to the importance of self-confidence’. He is therefore certain that the world would be a much simpler place if everyone were a little bit more self-conscious and thus more egotistical-especially women. CONCLUSION-BE THE PERPETRATOR, NOT VICTIM At the end of the day, the applause for all participants is honest and consensual. This safe space has provided an incredibly open exchange. It made possible questions that women in other places would not have asked. ‘Every difficult negotiation focuses on conflict’, concludes Matthias Schranner. ‘I would like you to love it in every negotiation and learn how to deal with it in a playful way’. He takes a short break: ‘And especially if you are negotiating with a man. We want competitors, not victims’.

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