FINE Wine & Champagne India 203

Fall 2020

F I N E W I N E & C H A M P A G N E I N D I A V o l u m e 1 0 | I s s u e 3 | Q 3 2 0 2 0 DELENG/2010/35861

1

£15 | `900

1 9 4 7

•

N IN TH

A u s t r a l i a

•

P o r t

•

B o r d e a u x

AN N IVER SA RY

•

C a v i a r

I S S UE

F I N E

PAGE 10

PAGE 40

FINE Event

PAGE 70

6

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Event

FINE Bordeaux

W I N E

&

C H A M P A G N E

I N D I A

PAGE 22

PAGE 58

FINE Century

FINE Event

PAGE 80

FINE Tasting

A N N I V E R S A R Y

I S S U E

FINE Contents

N I N T H

PAGE 88

FINE Best Indian

PAGE 98

FINE Gastronomy

9 FINEEDITORIAL

PAGE 112

FINE Caviar

In Lockdown

10 FINEEVENT

A Tasting of the India Vintage

22 FINECENTURY

A Century of Australian Wine Heritage

40 FINEEVENT

Three Centuries of Port

48 FINELIFE AWARD

Niepoort Felicitation Dinner 2012

58 FINEEVENT

FINE India Sixth Anniversary

70 FINEBORDEAUX

Bordelais in India

80 FINETASTING

The Vine Club Tasting Event

88 FINEBEST INDIAN

Best Indian Sparkling Wines 2015

98 FINEGASTRONOMY Tale of Two Ancient Beverages 106 FINEEXCLUSIVE 112 FINECAVIAR PAGE 120

FINE Destination

120 FINEDESTINATION

Colgin’s Wines with India’s Food FINE Caviar Experience Castles Capital Cuisine — Luxembourg

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

7

WRITERS

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA Volume 10 Issue 3 Q3 2020 Editor Rajiv Singhal Publisher Rajiv Singhal for Fine Publishing India Private Limited Chief Executive Ritu Singhal Wine Manager Radhika Puar Bordeaux Correspondent Ch’ng Poh Tiong Art & Creative Sandeep Kaul Digital Media Udit Singhal Photographs Hunesh Ajmani Administration Ankita Thapa Distribution Priyanka Cover Photograph Benedikt Geyer/Unsplash Editorial & Business Offices 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001 E: contact@fine-magazines.in W: www.fine-magazines.in Subscriber Information T: +91 11 23359874-75 RNI no. DELENG/2010/35861 ISSN 2231-5098 Edited, Printed and Published by Rajiv Singhal on behalf of Fine Publishing India Private Limited. Published from 6F Vandhna, 11 Tolstoy Marg, New Delhi 110001, India. Printed at Aegean Offset Printers, 220-B, Udyog Kendra Extension I, Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201306, India.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication maybe reproduced, stored in any retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the publisher. The opinions of the contributors or interviewees presented in this magazine do not necessarily correspond to nor reflect the opinions of the publisher or the editorial team. While the editorial team do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. Fine Publishing India does not keep nor return illustrations or other materials that have been sent in unsolicited, and hold the right to make any modifications in texts and pictures published in FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine. We reserve the right to refuse or suspend advertisements.

8

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Ritu Singhal co-founded Group Ritu, which has interests in publishing, international consulting, marketing, brand building, e-learning and private equity. Trained as a textile designer at Sophia Polytechnic in Bombay, Ritu is up for any gastronomic adventure as long as it is vegetarian.

Rajiv Singhal studied Economics at Yale and is a first generation entrepreneur who simplified access to the Indian market for international clients. Rajiv set up the market for wine in India over the last 20 years and is the Ambassador of Champagne to India.

Amanda Regan has a Master’s degree in Wine Technology, Management & Marketing, experience of making wine in Champagne, Burgundy and Victoria and a background in art and design. Amanda has experience as a wine judge in major international competitions.

Pekka Nuikki is one of the leading experts on fine wines in Europe and has published acclaimed wines and art books. Pekka is an award-winning photographer and a very lucky man, having hit seven hole-in-ones.

Juha Lihtonen is a renowned Finnish sommelier who was Best Sommelier in the Nordic countries in 2003. Juha is a wine educator, a wine host on a radio programme, and the Editor of FINE magazines in his day job!

Peter Liem migrated from California to Champagne for an insider’s view on his beloved wine region and came to be recognized as a spokesperson for the grower champagnes. Peter publishes the very comprehensive blog, champagneguide.net.

Adam Lechmere has been writing about wine for about 17 years, including at BBC Online, and now contributes freelance to international publications. Adam travels frequently, judges wine competitions and lives in London with his wife and three daughters.

Meri Kukkavaara studied art in Florence and is an interior designer, with interests in art and education. Meri is a keen student of life and in her few time enjoys taking up courses such as drumming, Indian cooking and tango.

Richard Juhlin is a champagne connoisseur and expert, who is envied for the number of champagnes he has tasted – 12,000 – in his lifetime, and whose champagne books are much sought after. Richard was appointed Chevalier de Legion d’Honneur by the French President.

Mary Kae Irvin is a wine educator and an accomplished actor and voice talent. Mary Kae enjoys quality time with friends, has never met a stranger and is committed to changing the world – one glass at a time.

Stuart George founded Arden Fine & Rare Wines to offer a fine and rare wine experience to private clients. Privileged to have tasted vintages back to 1780, Stuart lives in London, plays the guitar and follows cricket in his free time.

Lara Cowen is highly qualified – WSET Diploma holder, Certified Educator, Sake Educator; Certified Specialist of Wine; Certified Sherry Educator – and trained as a pastry chef. Founder of Cru Classe Hospitality Corp, Lara lives in Vancouver with her family.

Ch’ng Poh Tiong trained as a lawyer and is a consultant, judge and writer in the wine space. Author of many books, he specialises in Bordeaux. Poh Tiong plays the 7 string qin and is happiest when he laughs together with his daughter.

Andrew Caillard founded the Langton’s wine auction house and the very prestigious Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine. A prolific writer, influencer and Master of Wine, Andrew is a wine marketing graduate of Roseworthy Agricultural College.

Madhumita Bhattacharya studied English Literature at St Xavier’s College, Calcutta and has been a journalist for around 15 years, writing on food, travel, and wine. Based in Bangalore, Madhumita writes novels and sees food and wine as the lens to understanding the world.

Essi Avellan is the first Master of Wine from Finland and holds a Master of Science degree in Business Administration. A champagne and sparkling wine specialist, Essi judges at several wine competitions and received Chevalier l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole by the French Agriculture Minister.

n eerie silence shrouded the ever-bustling Oxford Street in London, Times Square in

FINE Editorial

A

In Leockdown

New York, Champs-Élysées in Paris, Rajpath in New Delhi, and other prominent boulevards on every continent around the world. The Summer Olympics in Tokyo and

The Expo Dubai were postponed; the Taj Mahal closed doors to its tens of thousands of daily visitors; school leaving examinations were cancelled…

The virus strain that mutated from a wet market in the central provinces of China triggered the declaration of a pandemic that brought the world to a grinding halt. Strict lockdowns and extensive social distancing regulations were enforced to break the chain. No one was spared – some who assured us that we would be looked after, needed to be looked after themselves! Sadly, Coronavirus continued in the list of infamous predecessors – Plague (18th century), Cholera (19th century) and Influenza (20th century) – the twentieth year of the 21st century couldn’t shake off the curse of the twenties.

But, as we paused, curtailed human activity helped purge the planet of its toxicity – the skies were blue again; the animal kingdom regained control that they had ceded; the holy water of the Ganges was drinkable – the damage caused to our habitat was, indeed, reversible. And the sudden unavailability of what was taken for granted has made us all treasure joys, appreciate relationships and respect values more. This virus-induced global disruption is a landmark that will certainly be recorded in history as a life-changing challenge, which be transformed into a game-changing opportunity.

FINE had tasked itself to establish the market for fine wine in India. As we step into our tenth year, fine wines are a deliberate choice for the well-heeled, who care for the present, and wine has become an integral part of India’s lifestyle. In India, the regulatory shackles are easing – online sales are finally permitted in some markets – a first-ever. Sales of billions were recorded in key markets on the first day of the relaxation of restrictions imposed during the lockdown. And with China – one of the largest emerging wine markets in the world – embroiled in diplomatic exchanges that hold the potential to trigger bitter trade wars, I reiterate that India is a potential wine market that should remain on any radar.

Rajiv Singhal FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

9

10

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 1

A Tasting of the India Vintage Text: Juha Lihtonen

D

ay turns to evening in New Delhi. A hazy, terracotta coloured

sky glows above the city, which bathes in the sun’s final rays before dark. Gilded by the shafts of sunlight through

intricately carved signature “jaalis”, the luxury hotel Aman New Delhi buzzes with anticipation for the evening. The hotel team is putting

the finishing touches on preparations. The atmosphere is intense. It is

the start of the two-day launch of FINE Wine & Champagne India.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

11

The actual unveiling will take place the next day, but tonight eight guests have been invited for a preview of the new magazine and the world of FINE through a wine tasting unique to this part of the world.

The event will celebrate the year of Indian independence, 1947, and promises to include a plethora of fine wines from around the world. It is the beginning of perhaps the most exclusive tasting ever to have taken place in India.

The editor and founder of FINE Wine & Champagne India, Rajiv Singhal, welcomes the guests, who have come from all parts of India to witness this new era in the Indian wine world. Rajiv explains why FINE Magazines decided to focus on the Indian market for its entry into Asia. He states that the evening’s wine tasting is a good example of the ways in which FINE Wine & Champagne India chooses to share its expertise with its readers: by enjoying wines with them!

The suspense is finally broken when the magazines in white envelopes are 12

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

unwrapped and the moment is toasted with today’s best champagne in the world, the Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002 (93p). The gold filigree covered bottle sits well in the scene matching the Aman hotel’s jaalis covered stone windows.

One of the attendees is Editor-in-Chief Essi Avellan MW of FINE Champagne magazine. She introduces the PiperHeidsieck flagship to the guests and explains the reasons behind its choice as the best in the world from among more than one thousand champagnes.

Perhaps the most exclusive tasting ever to have taken place in India.

After the charming Rare 2002, the party moves over to the hotel’s elegant wine cellar, which is one of its kind in Delhi and whole India. In the cellar awaits the oldest bottle of champagne that is opened in the tasting. It is also the world’s priciest champagne, the Heidsieck & Co Monopole Goût Américain from 1907 (94p). The bottle is one of the champagnes ordered by Tsar Nicholas II, which ended up sixty metres below the

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 1

surface of the sea, when the Germans sank the schooner that carried it, off the Finnish shore in 1916. Eighty-one years later thewreck and its champagne treasure were discovered and 2500 well-preserved bottles were rescued. Today only a few bottles remain and go for up to USD 275000 at the Ritz-Carlton in Moscow. The bottle opened at the Indian event is in excellent condition. A hint of fizz still remains in the light-brown, medium-sweet liquor. Its intense aroma of toffee, apricot and wax dispels even the most sceptical guests’ doubts as to the drinkability of the champagne. In fact, the guests are unanimous in praising the wine’s refreshing, broadly nutty taste and wondering how a champagne can remain so delicious for over a century. The answer lies in the perfect storage conditions at the bottom of the sea.

White wines aged over five decades are very rare.

Expectations are high when the guests are asked to transfer to the hotel’s lovely library. A large tasting table set on a pedestal amidst images from the historic independence year will be the next three hours’ centre stage for the Tasting of the India Vintage 1947.

The list of wines that will be tasted is revealed and the atmosphere in the room gets ecstatic. Many are surprised to find two white wines included in the tasting, as white wines aged over five decades are very rare. Therefore, the main emphasis is, naturally, on reds.

The tasting in fact begins with the white wines, which are the 1947 Château Olivier from Graves in Bordeaux (87p) and the 1947 Ferdinand Pieroth Bechtheimer Hasensprung Spätlese (91p) from Rheinhessen, Germany. Both regions experienced an exceptionally hot and dry growing season that year. As a result, the wines were characterised by a soft acidity and were not expected to last well in storage.

This belief was proven wrong as regards the tasted wines, however, as both are fresh and enjoyable. The German wine’s medium-sweet and full-bodied style is more attractive to our guests than the lightly mineral and crisp Château Olivier.

The red wines cause a bigger split in opinions. The ripe and mature Marchesi di Barolo (88p) is a typical example of an elegantly developed Barolo, with its pale brick-red colour, waxy aroma and lightly restrained, refined taste. Thanks to the excellent harvest experienced in Piedmont in 1947, the wine is still in excellent condition.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

13

14

Spain’s Rioja also enjoyed a fine growing season that year. The decanted 1947 CVNE Viña Real Gran Reserva (93p) is in perfect condition. The wine was delivered directly from the estate. It has a brick-red colour, voluptuous aroma and mellow, silky mouthfeel. It charms the guests with its generosity, suppleness and youthful character.

Californian wines deliver pleasure still

The journey through the 1947 vintage makes next a trans-Atlantic crossing to the United States. A common amazement among the guests takes place – can

a small vintner of Californian

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

after half a century? At the time, wine production in California was ruled

over by a handful of producers, some of the most notable being

Beaulieu Vineyards, Charles Krug,

Inglenook and Louis Martini.

Well-known beside these large-

The bottle is one of the champagnes ordered by Tsar Nicholas II.

scale producers was Martin Ray, fine wines. We enjoy Ray’s 1947

Saratoga Cabernet Sauvignon (88p). Ray made a name as a fine wine producer by

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 1

adopting a number of methods more commonly used in Burgundy, such as barrel fermentation and fermentation in open vats, where the skins were pressed to the bottom on a regular basis. Ray’s production methods also included long aging in oak barrels and bottles prior to sale. The wine is sophisticated and developed, despite its firm tannins and slight austerity. The taste is lively and lingering.

atmosphere hit the roof. First up is the 1947 Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’ (93p). Although the 1947 vintage was not as favourable for Ribera del Duero as for Rioja, it was still good. The wine is slightly closed and robust. The stout taste is set off by angular tannins, which are, however, nicely balanced by the wine’s intensely fruity character. The party asserts that the wine is full of vitality and robustly well-bodied.

From Napa’s Martin Ray we move on to Burgundy, France, to taste the Cuvée des Dames Hospitalières (92p) from Hospices de Beaune, known for its charity auctions. The 1947 vintage was extremely hot in Burgundy, causing some of the fastest ripening times on record. The resulting wines were unusually rich, full-bodied and generous, and this one is no exception. Its silky, seductive and aromatic taste charms our guests.

The big Bordeaux follow as Château Margaux and Cheval Blanc are brought to the stage.

The reputation of the 1947 Cheval Blanc has preceded its serving, it being known as one of the best wines in the world. Surprisingly, however, the 1947 Château Margaux (97p) proves to be clearly the superior of the pair.

The elegant and suave wine charms with its multidimensionality, suppleness and energy. The Cheval Blanc (93p), on the other hand, while being typically voluptuous, rich and robust and having a lot of character, lacks the refined and velvety tones that have distinguished the best bottles we have tasted.

Amazed by the enjoyability of these old wines.

Next up are some of the most renowned wine brands in the world, which makes the expectant

Having lasted several hours, the tasting has FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

15

roused many interesting questions regarding the style and properties of the wines. Most guests are amazed by the enjoyability of these old wines. The tasting has revolutionised many participants’ views concerning wine aging and the ages at which wines should be enjoyed. The conversation concerning ideal drinking times soon leads to a discussion of the best ways to pair wine with food. The answer is found in the dining room next door, where a five-course menu accompanied by wines from the 1947 vintage awaits.

The wine was a surprise with its richness and intensity.

The first course, Tomato Sorbet with Roma Tomato Tartare and Garlic Scented Tuille is served with three white wines: the 1947 Château Olivier, Ferdinand Pieroth’s 1947 Bechtheimer Hasensprung Spätlese and the dry and nutty 1947 Tokaji Szamorodni (83p). The sorbet is a challenging match for the wines with its acidic taste and taste budnumbing coldness. Pieroth’s medium-sweet wine fares best with this dish.

The same wines stay on for the next course, Asparagus with Fettuccini in a Vegetal Bouillon. Château Olivier is better with this dish, while the dry Tokaji is overpowered. However, the sweeter style Pieroth is again the best match.

The meat course of the evening, Seared Loin of New Zealand Lamb with Baby Vegetables, is accompanied by what was chosen as the best wine of the tasting, the 1947 CVNE Viña Real Rioja, as well as the esteemed 1947 Château PichonLongueville de Lalande from Pauillac, Bordeaux. The evening’s great surprise, Viña Real, is clearly the better of the two in this company, as the PichonLongueville de Lalande is unfortunately oxidised.

The final course, an intensely sweet Warm Chocolate Fondant with Mango Gelato, is crowned by two fine wines: the 1947 Vin

16

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 1

Santo from the reputable Tuscan estate of Brolio, and the 1947 Constantino’s Vintage Port. Both are excellent, vital wines, but the Vin Santo is a particular surprise with its richness and intensity, which are a fine complement to the dessert. The dinner is brought to a superb conclusion and the satisfied guests exit into the night full of delicious food and wine and memorable experiences.

At the next day’s official launch of FINE Wine & Champagne India, Taittinger’s Brut Réserve champagne flows as a couple of hundred esteemed guests make toasts and browse through the exhibition of winethemed photography by FINE magazines founder Pekka Nuikki.

The photographs are for sale and their proceeds go to the FINE Foundation, whose purpose is to promote wine education towards creating a larger resource pool of sommeliers. The new magazines and previously unseen photographs cause a stir.

Many are confused about the large-scale investment of this fine wine publication into the Indian market.

The foundation’s purpose is to promote wine education.

They need not be; the answer is simple.

India and its people are ready to embrace fine wines as a part of their culture. We here at FINE are very honoured and pleased to be making a small contribution towards this historic event. >

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

17

Tasting Event

Wines in ranking order

Champagnes 1907 2002

Heidsieck Monopole Goût Américain (Champagne, France) Piper-Heidsieck Rare (Champagne, France)

94p 93p

Tasting wines 1947 1947 1947 1947 1947 1947 1947 1947 1947 1947 1947

Château Margaux (Margaux — Bordeaux, France) Viña Real Gran Reserva (Rioja, Spain) Château Cheval Blanc (St-Emilion — Bordeaux, France) Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’ (Ribera del Duero, Spain) Hospices de Beaune Cuvée des Dames Hospitalières — J. Marvelle (Burgundy, France) Ferdinand Pieroth Bechtheimer Hasensprung Spätlese (Rheinhessen, Germany) Brolio Vinsanto (Tuscany, Italy) Barolo, Marchesi di Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Constantino’s Vintage Port (Douro, Portugal) Château Olivier Blanc (Graves — Bordeaux, France) Tokaji Szamarodni (Tokaj —Hegyalja, Hungary)

94p

1907 Heidsieck Monopole Goût Americain

Region: Champagne, France Auction Price: €1479 Colour: Intense, golden amber Nose: Complex, nutty, dried apricots, waxy Palate: Off-dry, vivid, dried apricots, nuts Ending: Lingering, aromatic In a Word: Rich and robust Buy or Not: To be experienced at least once in a lifetime Tasted: 31 times Decanting Time: Just before serving Glass Time: 15min When to Drink: Now to 2016 Food Pairing: Foie gras Fake Factor: Medium Inside information: The champagne contains 42.55 grams residual sugar.

Or try this: Aland shipwreck champagnes Veuve Clicquot or Juglar from 1830s Final Verdict: Superb wine for its age delivering the pleasure of drinking still so well

18

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

93p

2002 Piper-Heidsieck Rare

Region: Champagne, France Auction Price: €128 Colour: Bright, yellow Nose: Toasty, fresh apples Palate: Crisp and fresh, brioche Ending: Lingering, long In a Word: Silky Buy or Not: Yes, absolutely Tasted: 30 times Decanting Time: 30min Glass Time: 1h When to Drink: Now to 2025 Food Pairing: Blini with Sevruga caviar Fake Factor: Low Inside information: The Best Champagne of 2011 (FINE Champagne Magazine).

Or try this: Krug Vintage 1998 Final Verdict: A wonderful champagne that has good potential for ageing but delivers great pleasure already today.

97p 94p 93p 93p 92p 91p 90p 88p 87p 87p 83p

Region: Graves, Bordeaux, France Auction Price: €142 Colour: right, moderately intense, yellow Nose: Fresh, mineral, touch of nettles Palate: Dry, light-bodied, fresh and crisp Ending: ineral and smoky In a Word: Refined and vivid Buy or Not: Yes, if you want to surprise your company Tasted: 3 times Decanting Time: 30min Glass Time: 30min When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Grilled lobster Fake Factor: Low Or try this: 1947 Haut-Brion Blanc Final Verdict: Positive surprise as the wine is still well alive and vivid.

94p

1947 Viña Real Gran Reserva

Region: Rioja, Spain Auction Price: N/A Colour: Clear, bright red Nose: Opulent, milk chocolate, ripe wild strawberries, smoke Palate: Dry, medium-bodied, silky texture, smooth tannins, intense fruit Ending: Fleshy and round In a Word: Satin Buy or Not: Buy, absolutely Tasted: 3 times Decanting Time: 30min Glass Time: 45min When to Drink: Now to 2020 Food Pairing: Grilled rack of lamb Fake Factor: Low Inside information: The producer has plenty of old vintages available.

Or try this: Any Bordeaux red of the same age Final Verdict: A “Real” find.

91p

1947 Ferdinand Pieroth Bechtheimer Hasensprung Spätlese

Region: Rheinhessen, Germany Auction Price: N/A Colour: Intense, amber Nose: Dried apricots, honey, flowers, mango Palate: Off-dry, lean, light bodied, dried fruits Ending: Rich yet less refined In a Word: Opulent Buy or Not: Bargain for the quality Tasted: 3 times Decanting Time: 30min Glass Time: 30min When to Drink: Now to 2020 Food Pairing: Chicken tikka Fake Factor: Low Inside information: The vintage 1947 was very hot in Germany yielding wines with ripe fruit and moderately low acidity.

Or try this: Any riesling of the same age from Germany Final Verdict: A good example of the immortality of German white wines.

88p

1947 Martin Ray Saratoga Cabernet Sauvignon Region: California, USA

Auction Price: N/A Colour: Medium intense, brick red Nose: Leather, black fruits, tobacco, touch of figs Palate: Dry, robust, firm tannins, mineral and nutty Ending: Robust and bit austere In a Word: Masculine Buy or Not: For curiosity - yes Tasted: 3 times Decanting Time: 30min Glass Time: 45min When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Medium-done T-bone steak Fake Factor: Low Or try this: Any Californian red from the 1940s Final Verdict: A good wine that has passed its peak.

88p

1947 Barolo, Marchesi di Barolo

Region: Piedmont, Italy Auction Price: €155 Colour: Hazy, light, tuile red Nose: Smoky, waxy, red fruits, gunpowder Palate: Dry, vivid, delicate, silky tannins Ending: Harmonious and savoury

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 1

87p 1947 Château Olivier Blanc

In a Word: Elegant Buy or Not: If you find a perfect bottle Tasted: 6 times Decanting Time: 15min Glass Time: 30min When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Roasted elk Fake Factor: Low Or try this: 1947 Barolo by Borgogno Final Verdict: The wine shows signs of retiring, but is still drinking perfectly well.

92p

1947 Hospices de Beaune Cuvée des Dames Hospitalières - J. Marvelle

Region: Burgundy, France Auction Price: N/A Colour: Bright, brick red Nose: Seductive, floral, black fruits, violet, cappuccino Palate: Dry, medium-bodied, smooth, delicate, vivid Ending: Silky and elegant In a Word: Charmingly delicate Buy or Not: If you can find one Tasted: 3 times Decanting Time: 45min Glass Time: 1h When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Grilled pigeon with truffle risotto Fake Factor: Low Or try this: 1947 Volnay from Camille Giroud Final Verdict: A find of an old Burgundy.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

19

93p

1947 Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’

Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain Auction Price: €666 Colour: right, brick red Nose: Reserved, intense, vegetal, leathery Palate: Dry, full-bodied, intense dried fruit flavour, firm tannins Ending: Savoury and smooth In a Word: Firm and sturdy Buy or Not: Yes, it will be worth the experience Tasted: 5 times Decanting Time: 30min Glass Time: 1h When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Roasted lamb Fake Factor: Medium Or try this: 1942 Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’ Final Verdict: A rustic and earthy style Vega Sicilia.

83p

1947 Tokaji Szamarodni

Region: Tokaj, Hegyalja, Hungary Auction Price: N/A Colour: Bright, amber Nose: Dried fruits, yeasty, nutty, oxidised Palate: Dry, vivid, toasty, nutty, dried fruits Ending: Elegant and light with walnut flavour In a Word: Passée Buy or Not: Avoid Tasted: 3 times Decanting Time: 15min Glass Time: 45min When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Tapas Fake Factor: None Inside information: The vintage was superb in the Tokaj region.

Or try this: Pick Tokaji Aszú rather than Szamodorni Final Verdict: A modest wine that has passed its peak decades ago.

20

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

97p

1947 Château Margaux

Region: Margaux, Bordeaux, France Auction Price: €500 Colour: Medium intense, ruby Nose: Smoky, licorice, capsicum, cardamom Palate: Dry, vivid, medium bodied, mineral and intense fruit Ending: Long and lingering In a Word: Elegant Buy or Not: Absolutely Tasted: 19 times Decanting Time: 30min Glass Time: 1h When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Sautéed venison Fake Factor: Moderate Inside information: One of the hottest years of the century.

Final Verdict: One of the best 1947s from Left Bank.

90p

1947 Brolio Vinsanto

Region: Tuscany, Italy Auction Price: N/A Colour: Dark brown, hazy Nose: Nutty, dried fruits, figs Palate: Sweet, broad, intense, raisiny Ending: Vivid, nutty and chocolaty In a Word: Rich and concentrated Buy or Not: Absolutely - a find Tasted: 3 times Decanting Time: 15min Glass Time: 45min When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Salty hard cheeses Fake Factor: None Inside information: The producer Ricasoll, has become known as a pioneer having created a formula for Chianti wines over a hundred years ago. Beside their highly esteemed red wines they used to produce Vinsanto - a wine that is produced from dried grapes .

Or try this: Vinsanto from the 1960s Final Verdict: The best mature vintage Vinsanto we have tasted.

93p

1947 Château Cheval Blanc

Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux, Franc Auction Price: €3370 Colour: Medium intense, tawny Nose: Ripe plums, jammy, smoky, butterscotch Palate: Dry, round but robust, vivid, phenolic, ripe red fruits Ending: Mineral and smoky In a Word: Powerful Buy or Not: You do not want to miss this Tasted: 63 times Decanting Time: 1h Glass Time: 2h When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Entrecôte medium rare with haricot verts Fake Factor: Alarmingly high Inside information: The fourth best wine of the 20th century .

Or try this: 1945 Château Mouton Rothschild Final Verdict: Far from a perfect bottle of Cheval Blanc, but still very enjoyable wine.

87p

1947 Constantino’s Vintage Port

Region: Douro, Portugal Auction Price: €273 Colour: Light, yellow brown Nose: Intense, dried apricots, bitter almonds Palate: Quite sweet, round, moderately light bodied, delicate Ending: Round and mellow In a Word: Generous Buy or Not: If you find one Tasted: 3 times Decanting Time: 1h Glass Time: 45min When to Drink: Now Food Pairing: Forget food – just meditate with it Fake Factor: None Inside information: The port house of Constantino’s was established in 1910

by Constantino de Almeida, a famous producer at the beginning of the century.

He also owned the port house Quinta do Crasto. After his death, the Constantino’s brand disappeared while Quinta do Crasto is still run by his descendants.

Or try this: Any 1947 vintage port Final Verdict: A good and pleasant wine.

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 1 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

21

Photo: Best’s Wines

22

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2016 TEXT: Rajiv Singhal PHOTOS: Shivam Bhatti

The Friday leading upto Australia Day was extraordinarily special. FINE Wine & Champagne India raised the flag in New Delhi to “A Century of Australian Wine Heritage” – an unparalleled-in-India tasting-dinner for very select FINE wine-friends that was conceived as the most recent within the series of “FINE Iconic Tastings” to showcase the pedigree and history of wines over the last 11 decades from across the different wine regions of the continent-country tucked away down-under – Australia.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

23

2000 - 2015

Production volumes increase dramatically. Brand Australia established as promotional message. Multi-regional blends dominate exports.

Emergence of varietal labeling and increases in plantings. Large scale production established.

1980 - 2000

1960 - 1980 1950 - 1960

Difficult period. WWI & WWII and the Great Depression. Shift to fortified wine production and planting in warmer climate zones.

Busby, Kelly and deCastella establish fine wine in various parts of the country. Limited market to sell wine in Australia.

1890 - 1900

Droughts and economic struggles led to abandonment of many vineyards.

1830 - 1860

The Hunter Valley was the first commercial wine region Wyndham Estate was established in 1828.

1828

Gregory Blaxland first to export wine and wins award overseas.

1822

First settlers arrived bringing vine cuttings from Europe.

1788

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Revival of old vineyard site by fine wine minded individuals – Max Schubert, Maurice O’Shea. Reputations as fine wine producers established – Penfold’s, Hardy’s, Tahbilk, Yalumba etc.

1900 - 1950

1825

24

Building on a century of fine wine making Australia is established as a producer of distinctive and world class premium wine.

Australia consistently maintains position as the fourth largest exporter in the world despite increasing competition and challenging market conditions.

Winemakers push the boundaries and explore terroir across Australia, establishing 65 distinct wine regions.

James Busby was a Scottish botanist and became involved in viticulture around 1825.

FINE Winter 2016

THE GENESIS The seeds for this grand tasting-dinner were sown in Fall 2013, when I accepted an invitation and boarded The Maharajah’s Dreamliner to join the international wine fraternity for the inaugural edition of Savour Australia, Wine Australia’s global wine forum convened in Adelaide, to explore wine country in Australia – for what would be my first ever trip to this part of the world. My antennae had already been raised by the recent news that Australia had displaced the more established wine producing countries in Europe, specially France, to capture

the largest market share in India for imported wine – even if on volume.

At the Wynns Coonawarra Estates’ tasting table, backdropped by a crosssection of the famed Terra Rossa, I was honoured to get a historical perspective going back to 1957 (the Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon still had many years to peaking) and 1969 (my own vintage from the cellars of Redman) – I had not imagined that Australia would afford me this pleasure! At the Yalumba Museum Tasting hosted

by Robert Hill Smith, at the legendary Lion Cellars & Tunnels in Adelaide, a 1938 Riesling (melons leapt

Old vintages in Australia are so rare – they are not that easy to come by

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

25

out on the charming nose) and a 1922 Shiraz “Port” (syrupy, candied, spicy and long) rounded up a most unexpected and hugely satisfying trip.

With the benefit of hindsight, we reckon that our original idea to source aged Australian wines from each decade of the last century (which assumed the file name “Historic Australia”) was a tad ambitious. We took wine-making in Australia to be a two hundred and thirty something year old tradition. After all, the first cuttings of vines arrived in Australia with the First Fleet in 1788 to be initially planted in Sydney Cove.

Vine-planting and winemaking was well on its way in various regions of Australia around the middle of the 19th century, fuelled by the untiring efforts of the “father” of the Australian wine industry, James Busby (1802-1871).

Old vintages in Australia are so rare – they are not

26

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

that easy to come by – unlike their European counterparts. A few months into the project, we were warned by an insider. “Your project is more onerous than you would expect. The depletion of rare Australian wine is remarkable, and even a request of one bottle might be unrealistic.”

THE TREASURE But, we were perseverant – and it paid off! The team at Wine Australia was quick off the blocks to buy-in this endeavour to showcase the image of Australian premium. Ross Brown, third generation of the family managing Brown Brothers in Victoria, not only immediately committed that a wine from his cellars would be represented – the 1967 Everton Hills Cabernet Shiraz was one of the oldest wines in the line-up – he was successful in influencing his friends, Colin Campbell of Campbell’s Wines (who sent through the Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen

FINE Winter 2016

This is just not a wine tasting – it’s a walk through history, it’s a celebration of the history of wine.

Muscat) and Alister Purbrick of Tahbilk, to come on-board.

nick of time to send across the very rare 1936 Vintage Port from his collection, with his own hand-written Alister Purbrick contributed notes. Yodi Mootoosamy the 1978 Reserve Bin 65, of Treasury Wine Estates but he let us into “the got his hands on the 1963 availability of museum Penfolds St. Henri from wines which date back to the Auldana Cellars which 1948”. We pushed our luck “fortuitously” became the and insisted if the profile of oldest wine served. Stuart the tasting would allow him Barclay very generously to consider an older vintage. threw in the 1984 Penfolds “Unfortunately, even if Grange from his personal God himself was going to cellar and leveraged his be present, 1978 is the best network to get the “national that we can do”, was his treasure” – Bottle Number reply – priceless!

148 of the puncheon of the vintage 1915 Seppeltsfield Philip Jeffries of d’Arenberg Para Vintage Tawny. communicated our request to his rock star boss, Support continued to pour Chester Osborne and their in. Some not-known-to1970 Shiraz came through. us angels at Yalumba, Sue Hodder of Wynns Petaluma, Moss Wood Coonawarra Estate, where and Houghton donated the eureka moment for to complete the line-up project “Historic Australia” for the current decades. happened, was eventually Our project was gaining convinced and chose the some exciting traction in 1970 Cabernet Sauvignon. the world of fine wine – Bill Hardy managed in the whenever the project was Brian Walsh

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

27

A proud centurion, steeped in tradition and full of character, still going strong.

28

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2016 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

29

discussed with the world wine trade, we noticed raised eye-brows over a tasting of this magnitude in New Delhi!

Soon, some early decades were beginning to become pain points. We chanced upon an offer from a very reputed Australian broker for a bottle of Stonyfell Metala from 1959.

Langhorne Creek was the first wine region in Australia that I visited and we all felt that it would be really fitting that the oldest wine (the earlier decades were “Port” style fortifieds) in this historic line-up would be from that region where the Shiraz and Cabernet planted in 1891 in the Cellar Blocks and the Old Blocks still yield premium fruit. We put our paddle up on Lot #676 in the Finest and Rare Wine Auction and the hammer came down.

This joy was extremely short-lived, though, as the bottle never made it to the table. The brokers’ lorry

30

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

drivers at Nextday Logistics Carriers sensed that they were carrying treasure and scripted their own version of a highway heist and “stole” the lot – never to be found. At least one can’t fault them for bad taste!

Inspite of these “unexpecteds”, our booty grew, bottle-by-bottle and we were able to put together all decades dating back to the 10s in the 20th Century. It was a very special lot – most of which had been sourced directly from the wineries’ cellars and a few that came with good provenance that were acquired from the secondary market – and it was dotingly baby-sit in “Linda’s Vault” at the Adelaide office of Austrade.

THE EVENING FINE was privileged to host the “Century of Australian Wine Heritage” tastingdinner at the Residence of the Australian High

Patrick Suckling

Commissioner to India in New Delhi, that was so kindly offered to us by H.E. Patrick Suckling, High Commissioner of Australia to India and his wife Natalie Dalder. It was the perfect setting – an outpost of Australia in the heart of diplomatic enclave in the Indian capital – for a tasting-dinner that was paying homage to the country’s long and proud tradition of wine making.

And Natalie was the perfect hostess paying attention to the minutest detail – she was so welcoming that the imposing colonnade felt so warm!

Natalie Dalder

FINE Winter 2016

Wines showed very well, despite their age and the distance travelled. from the Australian cellars to tell their stories at the table and an extremely powerful first engagement with the still-emerging market for wine in India was created.

FINE wine-friends were whisked through the security protocol at the High Commission.

Corks popped and the bubbles rose in the glasses as the mature, yet very fresh, vintage Jansz 2009 “Méthode Tasmanoise” was offered on arrival.

The teenage daughter of Australia’s First Couple in India, Esther, had very kindly offered to play the Brian Walsh, Chair of Wine grand piano that sat in the Australia, was convinced foyer of the Residence – we to make a fleeting and were very touched. She ruefully short stop-over captivated us all by playing in New Delhi to lead the “River Flows in You” by “Century of Australian Yiruma; “Primavera” by Wine Heritage”. Brian Ludovico Einaudi and was greatly appreciative “Struttin at the Waldorf ” of the inspiration, drive

by Philip Lane – and very and patience that made it swiftly disappeared to her possible for the FINE gems room in the Residence,

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

31

Aroon Purie

too shy to take her much deserved bows.

Welcoming us, High Commissioner Suckling recognised the efforts over many years by innovative and dedicated wine makers in Australia, such as Brian, that had helped Australia to build an impeccable reputation in the world of wine as the country pieced together a proud heritage of extra-ordinary vintages. He shared that he was delighted that he was able to schedule this unprecedented event as one of his last official engagements in India!

THE PREPPING When Natalie gave us a carte blanche to move the fixtures in the Residence around, she had perhaps not imagined that her living room would be re-

32

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Vikram Oberoi

decorated into a “tasting room” with the grand tasting table centred against the bright red wall graced by a majestic picchwai painting.

Sommelier Kamal Malik was ever-so-kind to fly in from the Maldives to take charge of our booty that had been so safely carried across the Indian Ocean.

Expecting that the corks (defying popular perception, only two bottles in our treasure chest were under screwcap/ stelvin) might have dried out over the years, Kamal carried special tools to extract the tough ones. Throughout the day, assisted by Vipul Rajput, he prepared and nurtured the bottles – prizing out the old, dry and disintegrating corks, decanting, tasting, pouring and sequencing service – to set up the first volley of eleven glasses that

It was a very special lot and dotingly baby-sit in “Linda’s Vault”.

FINE Winter 2016

was set down before our guests.

impressed the majority.

The chinaware crested with the Australian coatof-arms lay waiting in the In his inimitable style, Brian resplendent dining room, with another volley of introduced the tasting to glasses. Before he signed the 18 vinos that graced off as Executive Chef of the table. “This is just the Hyatt Regency Delhi, not a wine tasting – it’s Chef Marin Leuthard had a walk through history, crafted a five course dinner it’s a celebration of wine, menu around celebrated it’s a celebration of the Australian produce. The history of wine!” All the slow-cooked Lamb Loin oenophile guests chipped with Bitter Chocolate in with their thoughts and Ganache and Blueberry some stories around wine.

Sauce was, quite expectedly, Many of the guests kept a dream combination going back to some of the with the big and perfectly glasses that they had set balanced 1984 Penfolds aside as ‘re-visit’ and they Grange. The other red, the found the evolution in the minty and intense 1970 glass to be both fascinating Wynns Coonawarra Estate and intriguing. The first Cabernet Sauvignon stood flight had some favourites its ground well. As we – the age on the 1930 Seppeltsfield was respected devoured the Guava Snow Egg with the very rich and and the 1967 Brown complex Campbell Wines Brothers Everton Hills

THE VERDICT

Madhulika Dhall

Pankaj Srivastava

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

33

But, we were perseverant – and it paid off!

Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat, we toasted the chef ’s brilliance (in absentia) and to the generosity of the Hyatt Regency Delhi.

It was the drops of the absolutely enchanting Seppeltsfield’s 100 year old Para Vintage Tawny, served in the brilliant cut crystal stems, that served up the finale to a spectacular display of Australia’s fine wine heritage.

The wines showed very well, despite their age and the distance travelled,

34

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

and Brian’s prayers were answered as fortunately none of the bottles was “off”. FINE is delighted to have shared these FINEst examples of Australian wine from the last century and presented 900+ years of vintage at this historic event on the shores of India – one where the history of Australian wine spoke from the glass to the privileged guests from within the haloed circles of fine wine in India to build the image of Australian premium!

FINE has more exciting and ambitious thoughts…

FINE Winter 2016

99p

Seppeltsfield 100 Year Old Para Vintage Tawny, 1915

Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia Blend: Shiraz, Grenache (mix is unknown) Appearance: Intensely deep amber bronze that hangs onto the glass Nose: Christmas pudding, dates and caramel toffee with spicy nutmeg and whiff of the 22% alcohol Palate: Deliciously sweet. Nutty prunes, dried figs and mocha. Very viscous with a superb acidity Finish: Exceptional balance and structure emerges from the mouth coating creaminess In a nutshell: The perfect anti-ageing formula Inside Information: The Polish merchant, Joseph Ernst Seppelt, migrated to Australia and bought the property (Seppeltsfield) in the Barossa Valley in 1851. In a far-reaching decision that would ensure the legacy was passed on to future generations, his son, Benno, who had an incredibly long-term outlook, decided that the finest port wine of the vintage would be laid down in a specially selected puncheon – 500 litre barrel – and remain untouched in the newly constructed ’Centennial Cellar’. After century-long maturation, it would be released as Seppeltsfield 100 year old Para Tawny Port in bottles of 100ml volume – a collector’s item and a true national treasure – the ‘essence’ of perfection! Today, this is the the world’s only unbroken lineage of single vintage wines spanning more than 130 consecutive vintages.

From the Bottle: Bottle No. 148 from the 1915 vintage’s puncheon held in the cellars.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

35

94p

Seppeltsfield Para Vintage Tawny, 1930 Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia

Appearance: Tawny Nose: Complex notes that range from the ripe apricots to gamey Palate: A rich, sweet raisiny feel with hazelnuts Finish: Lasting and lingering

88p

Region: South Australia Appearance: Deep garnet Nose: Bouncy fruits with elements of chocolate Palate: A treat of treacle with black fruits, vanilla and spicy caramel Finish: Short, but very pleasant expression

In a nutshell: Charming distant cousin Inside Information: A very futuristic decision by the Seppelt family at the end of the 19th century to long age their fine ports, much before many in traditional wine making countries did, has created a much desired oenotheque somewhat unparalleled in the world. First released in 1953, the Para Vintage Tawny is blended on a base of the Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro grapes and matured in seasoned oak barrels for around 28 years.

The vintage date actually referred to the oldest component of the blend, and this conflicted with the new labelling standards. In 2004, catchup bottling eventually made way for the release of the first 100% single vintage of 1976.

From the Bottle: A bulbous flask-like bottle. Oval inscriptions on the bottle mark the areas for the two front labels.

92p

Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia Blend: Shiraz, Carignan and Mataro Appearance: Deep amber with a yellow-green edge Nose: Very complex. Rich caramel and wafts of south Indian filter coffee complemented by pleasing butterscotch and glazed fruit Palate: Full and luscious hazelnut praline which is balanced by raisin and toffee apple Finish: Lovely balance of acidity, sweetness and intensity In a nutshell: Celebrating independence Inside Information: This vintage celebrates 100 years of the first plantings by Johann Gramp. This 1947 Vintage was vintaged from grapes grown in one of the oldest vineyards in the Barossa Valley. The grapes were allowed to reach full maturity, thus ensuring a wine rich and luscious in character, and together with many years of maturation in small oak casks, it has finally developed into a Tawny Port with the desirable soft, rich and nutty characteristics for which it is renowned.

From the Bottle: The bottle inscription reads, “This bottle is the property of the Traders Bottle Co Ltd” Awarded Gold medal in International Wine Fair Yugoslavia, 1967. Vintaged and Bottled by G. Gramp & Sons Pty Ltd Barossa Valley, South Australia.

36

In a nutshell: Old Inside Information: In 1850, the founder Thomas Hardy came to Australia with a passion for winemaking that led him to buy Bankside to create ‘wines that will be prized in world markets’, become one of the first exporters of Australian wine and bring prosperity to the region. Every drop of wine at the facilities was firerazed in 1904, and completely re-built.

From the Bottle: The bottle is carries the inscription, “This bottle is the property of The Adelaide Bottle Cooperative Company Limited, Southwark” alongside a graphic of Axe Brands Traditional Regd. Net content 750 ml. Donated by Bill Hardy, the vintage year 1936 has been stickered on. Cork is sealed with wax.

90p Orlando Vintage Tawny Port, 1947

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Hardy’s Vintage Port, 1936

Orlando Vintage Tawny Port, 1957 Region: Barossa Valley, South Australia Blend: Shiraz, Carignan and Mataro

Appearance: Tawny with some green overtones Nose: Concentrated flavours of raisins, vanilla, prunes that show rancid character, with some molasses showing up Palate: Rich and syrupy mouthfeel that is flavoured with spice and nuts. High alcohol is evident Finish: Superbly aged, the tawny is lovely and clean In a nutshell: Magnificence Inside Information: In 1847, Johann Gramp planted Rhine Riesling vines at Jacobs Creek in the Barossa and his son, Gustav, built the Orlando winery at Rowland Flat in 1877. Coming off a very strong pedigree, Hugo Gramp built the reputation of Orlando’s wine and brandy, before he was killed in the Kyeema air crash in 1938. In 1989 after a succession of owners, the small family owned Orlando landed up with the French multi-national Pernod Ricard, whose investments boosted growth, the focus being the Jacobs Creek label. This 1957 Vintage was grown in one of the oldest vineyards in the Barossa valley. The wine was aged in small oak casks for many years, thus maturing into a classic tawny.

From the Bottle: Unlike 1947, no inscriptions on the bottle. There is no “Orlando” branding on the cork. The net measure changes from 1 Pint 6 FL. OZ to 26 FL. OZ. and the metric 739 ml is introduced.

91p

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz, 1963 Region: South Australia

Appearance: Medium-deep amber Nose: Caramelised and expressive of its age. Gamey, herbaceous with hints of brett Palate: Dark berry preserve and dark chocolate complemented by supple tannins with savoury/ minerally and some balsamic notes Finish: Well concentrated, medium-bodied and dry In a nutshell: Vinous and complete Inside Information: When Max Schubert was secretly working on Grange, winemaker John Davoren was tasked, by a somewhat forward thinking Penfolds, with crafting St. Henri – this would be the hedge to Grange that had defied winemaking tradition. The experiment wine, released in 1953, did not see any new oak matured in old, 1460 litre vats.

From old labels found in the Auldana winery loft, St. Henri Claret was chosen. St. Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of Shiraz.

From the Bottle: Most elaborate bottle inscriptions.

“The bottle always remains the property of Penfolds Wine Pty Ltd and must not be filled by any other person.” The brand “Penfolds” is inscribed around the shoulder and down the spine. The bottle aged wine was brought to the Penfolds Wine Clinic 2000/2001 to be certified as in acceptable condition under the authority of John Duval, Chief Winemaker.

Brown Brothers Milawa Everton Hills Shiraz Cabernet, 1967

Region: Victoria Blend: Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon (More Shiraz, but actual mix not available) Appearance: Deep developed ruby red Nose: Enchanting herbaceous and vegetal bouquet with gamey notes and subtle hint of tar Palate: Zesty dark berries and black cherries are accentuated by wellstructured tannins Finish: Very nicely balanced rich mouthfeel

FINE Winter 2016

95p

In a nutshell: Sensuous and beautiful Inside Information: Founded by John Francis Brown in 1889. The rich tradition of family heritage inspires its future course. The winemaker of the 1967 vintage and third generation, John G Brown, recalls, “An excellent vintage, this wine is one of the best old reds from our cellars. The vineyard (that doesn’t exist anymore) was on a rainfall dependent dry hill yielding less than one tonne. Vinification was in Milawa. Ageing took place in large old oak for about 18 months and cellared in the old underground cellar before release.”

From the Bottle: The label describes the wine as “Dry Red Table Wine from Everton Hills Shiraz and Cabernet Grapes” and “Grown and Bottled at the estate by Brown Bros. Milawa Vineyard, Milawa, Victoria, Australia”.

Awarded gold medal at the Rutherglen Wine Exhibition Section 20 in 1977.

93p

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 1970 Region: Coonawarra

89p

d’Arenberg Shiraz, 1970 Region: Mc Laren Vale, South Australia

Blend: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Shiraz Appearance: Slight browning Nose: Gamey and meaty expression with a savoury tinge Palate: Crushed and dried rose petals with dry leather and cheese Finish: Solid, but drinking extremely well In a nutshell: Flamboyant Inside Information: Joseph Osborn, a teetotaller, cut his teeth at Thomas Hardy & Sons before he decided to trade his prize-winning horses stable to set up d’Arenberg in 1912. The fourth generation Chester Osborn was raised on the property, where his father d’Arry first produced wine with the famous red stripe.

As Chief Winemaker, he respects the century old family traditions.

From the Bottle: A Special Show Wine. Specially chosen for the Adelaide Festival of Arts 1974.

Produced by F.E. Osborn & Sons Pty. Ltd. Bottled by d’Arenberg Wines Pty. Ltd., McLaren Vale, South Australia. Declared an “Australian Wine” on the label.

A map pins Osborn’s d’Arenberg Vineyards on with respect to the ocean. Silver Medal in the 1972 Perth Show (Class 16 OBG2) and Bronze Medal in the 1970 Melbourne Show (Class 14).

Appearance: Medium brick red Nose: Dark berries, prunes and cassis with hints of eucalyptus Palate: Intense. Black cherries, cocoa and vanilla with nuances of leather and menthol. Tad dusty Finish: Lingering earthiness In a nutshell: Provenanced pleasure Inside Information: In 1890, Scotsman John Riddoch, planted the very first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the “Hundred of Comaum” vineyard within the Terra Rossa, and produced the first Coonawarra vintage “of superior quality”. Riddoch’s death ended this bold venture – but his property was renamed Chateau Comaum in 1946.

Polish-born, Shlomo Weintraub (Jewish-German for vigneron), fled to escape conscription and arrived in Australia. His name changed to Samuel Wynn (old English for wine) and he became a leading wine merchant. His family bought Chateau Comaum in 1951 and renamed it Wynns Coonawarra Estate. But for two interventions of rain in 1961 and 1963, the proudly Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon has seen 60 years of vintage.

From the Bottle: The “Australian Claret” is bottled by the Winegrowers Coonawarra Estate Pty Ltd. “Wynns Estate” is repetitively inscribed on the shoulder. The contents are in metric 0.738 litre. Sole and Exclusive Purveyors S. Wynn & Co. Pty. Ltd., Melbourne. On the back label, a map with latitudes describes the Coonawarra as The South East of South Australia.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

37

92p

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, 1975

Region: Magill and Barossa Valley, South Australia Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (mix not available) Appearance: Brick red Nose: Dark cherries and prunes accentuated by dried herb and earthy notes with a whiff of sweet sandalwood and vanilla Palate: Rich. Currants, caramel and meaty, firm but velvety tannins Finish: Mature, but shows flow and balance of fruit and oak In a nutshell: A stroke of blending genius Inside Information: In 1844, Penfolds was founded when Dr Christopher Rawson Penfold and his wife Mary acquired land in Magill to make a fortified medicinal tonic. A series of mergers and acquisitions in the recent decades brought Penfolds under the umbrella of Treasury Wine Estates. Having been a very important influence on the evolution of winemaking in Australia, it went to challenge the more established icons on the global stage.

Bin 389 was first made by Max Schubert in 1960 and is also known as the ‘Poor man’s Grange’ or ‘Baby Grange’ – the components are matured in the same barrels that held the previous vintage of Grange.

From the Bottle: The Penfolds logo appears with the crest. The label details the grape varieties, the district in which grown and the characteristics of the wine – and the expectation that the wine “will improve with further bottle age”. On 18 November 2002, John Duval, Chief Winemaker certifies, “This wine has been assessed, recorked and recapsuled under the supervision of a Penfolds Winemaker.”

94p

Penfolds Grange, 1984

Region: South Australia and South-eastern Australia Blend: 95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon Appearance: Intense brick red Nose: Very aromatic and complex. Dark plum, black berries, black olives are combined with caramel like aromas and enhanced by dark cocoa and leather Palate: Big. Black fruits with notes of truffles, balsamic notes, cedar wood, vanilla, coffee. Well-rolled tannins Finish: Full-bodied, lush, rich mouthfeel with long finish In a nutshell: Rich and famous Inside Information: Inspired by the long cellaring of French wines, legendary winemaker Max Schubert made his first vintage of Grange Hermitage in 1951. But, when he presented his efforts to the Board in Sydney, he was embarrassed and horrified. One critic remarked, “A very good, dry port, which no one will buy – let alone drink”. Fortunately, the distance of 1400 km from Sydney saved “Grange”. The experiment to make “a great wine that Australians would be proud of” was hidden in the Magill underground cellars and continued – secretly! It was not until the 1960 vintage that the Board woke up to “Australia’s most distinguished wine” and ordered production of the “wine dynasty” to re-start. The blend of Grange changes every year, depending on the winemakers wit!

From the Bottle: A definitive Australian dry red table wine, this Grange Hermitage Bin 95 was bottled by Penfolds Wines Pty. Ltd. It recommends that Grange Hermitage should always be decanted before serving.

38

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

90p

Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Bin 65, 1978

Region: Victoria Appearance: Lush brick red Nose: Raspberry and black cherry notes with some secondary levels of leather Palate: Shows fading fruits and bell peppers Finish: Medium bodied with a well-defined structure In a nutshell: Beyond its prime Inside Information: In 1925, the Purbrick family bought the winery established in 1860, making it home to 5 generations. 200 hectares of vineyards include traditional varietals and some rare Rhône varietals, some plantings extend back to Tahbilk’s founding with original pre-phylloxera Shiraz vines. A very traditional approach to winemaking, that has not changed since its founding, puts emphasis on fruit with potential to improve and develop added complexity if patiently cellared. The very best vat of Cabernet from the excellent 1978 vintage was chosen to be bottled separately – the resulting 1978 Chateau Tahbilk Cabernet Bin 65 became a special release with only 5200 bottles ever made. The wine fermented in open oak vats before ageing for 2 years in French oak.

From the Bottle: Estate Bottled Australian Wine was bottled by Tahbilk Pty Ltd, Tabilk, Victoria. The five storied building of the main winery is the label graphic. This wine presents the most detailed, intricate and aesthetic label including a crested capsule.

91p

Yalumba Signature Cabernet Shiraz, 1986

Region: Barossa and Coonawarra, South Australia Blend: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Shiraz Appearance: Medium purple red with an orange rim Nose: Dark cherries, prunes, a whiff of smoke and traces of oak in the background Palate: Dried blackberries and dark cherries leading to truffles and cigar humidor. Velvety tannins play with a fine acidity Finish: Medium-bodied, dry and persistent In a nutshell: Living to its potential Inside Information: Australia’s oldest family-owned winery, Yalumba was founded by Samuel Smith who planted his first vineyard by moonlight in Angaston in 1849. In 2015, the fifth generation Robert Hill-Smith appointed Nick Waterman as the first non-family Managing Director and himself took over as Chairman.

Yalumba is only one of four wineries in the world to own a cooperage managed by 7th Master Cooper Shaun Gibson. .

From the Bottle: The best of the vintage and honours an individual with significant contribution to Yalumba.

1986 was named for Helen Hill-Smith, who married Wyndham in 1947, and worked with the community so that “life at Yalumba has never waned”. Signed

by Helen Hill-Smith, Order of Australia Medal. Gold Medals at the National Wine Show in Canberra 1988 and Brisbane 1989.

Petaluma Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, 1998

90p

Region: Coonawarra, South Australia Blend: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon (with dash of rogue vine Shiraz), 30% Merlot Appearance: Concentrated ruby Nose: Dark cherries, blackcurrant, dried rose, eucalyptus mint, leafy Palate: Prunes with a hint of mint, leather and sweet tobacco Finish: Full bodied with earthy lasting finish In a nutshell: Brooding Inside Information: In 1976, Brian Croser founded Petaluma, its “Distinguished Vineyards” approach that defied established practices and introduced foreign practices like hand pruning, hand picking and minimal irrigation. In 2001, brewing giant Lion Nathan, mounted a hostile takeover on Petaluma that was listed in 1993.

From the Bottle: Unfiltered, was bottled at Spring Gully, Piccadilly SA. Brian Croser shares his thoughts on the label, “1998 ranks among the very best vintages – the fourth drought vintage in succession – and this is a truly great wine. The heart of this wine is the Terra Rossa of the 1968-planted Evans Vineyard and 1983-planted Sharefarmers Vineyard, that yield within the 7 tonne per hectare limit.” Bottled in January 2000, the wine saw eighteen months in new French oak, sourced from Petaluma’s pet cooper Dargaud et Jaegle.

Andrew Hardy, winemaker since 2004, is a minimalist who introduced subtle changes – “more evolution, than revolution”.

90p

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001

Region: Wilyabrup, Margaret River, Western Australia Blend: 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot (unchanged since 1997) Appearance: Bright brick red Nose: Complex. Violet, striking dark cherry and cassis with underlying aromas of leather and tar Palate: Rich mouthful of juicy red and black fruit highlighted by good acidity with spicy overtones and young but polished tannins Finish: Toasty and firm Closure: Stelvin In a nutshell: Seamless elegance Inside Information: Planted in 1969 by Bill and Sandra Pannell, in the very early years of the Margaret River, on a plot that had been tilled for a century before. Since 1985, viticulturist Keith Mugford, and his banker/nurse wife Clare, own the property whose Cabernet Sauvignon has driven the cash flow. The 2001 is “arguably the greatest wine yet released” – a classic. Early flowering – no highlights in vintage.

Harvested early in March, the wine saw new and 2-year old French barrel for two years. Former Production Manager Ian Bell put aside some Cabernet Franc and tiny fractions of Merlot in new oak – designs on a Cheval Blanc lookalike!

From the Bottle: Grown, vintage & bottled at Domaine Moss Wood. The back label introduces a bar code and declares “Preservative Sulphur Dioxide added” and “Produced with egg whites and skim milk”. The quality certifications of “Moss Wood Pty Ltd” are marked. Bottle inscriptions read 75cl 63mm!

Houghton Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011 Region: Frankland River, Western Australia

Blend: 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Malbec, 1% Shiraz Appearance: Purple-red Nose: Enchanting bouquet, green pepper, pencil shavings Palate: Blueberries laced with subtle nuances of tobacco and grippy vanilla tannins Finish: Well-structured and intensely powerful In a nutshell: Bold and beautiful Inside Information: Established in 1836 by a syndicate of three officers serving the British Army, the winery was christened by one of the founders, Lieutenant Colonel Richmond Houghton. In 1859, all of 25 gallons were produced in the first commercial vintage. Since then, just 13 winemakers have stood custody to the heritage of this very old Australian winery, lending consistency in style. In 1922, Jack Mann MBE, a 16-year old, joined as an apprentice to his father and piloted 51 consecutive vintages as winemaker. With visionary passion, he led his wines to heaps of awards!

FINE Winter 2016

91p

From the Bottle: Under screwcap, a minimalist label announces, “In honour of the great Jack Mann 19061989. 51 years of iconic winemaking for Houghton.”

95p

Campbell Wines Merchant Prince Rare Rutherglen Muscat, NV

Region: Rutherglen, Victoria Blend: Muscat a petit grains rouge (Rutherglen Brown Muscat) Appearance: Deep burgundy brown Nose: Complex. Raisiny with nuttiness of hazelnut with nutmeg and post-maturation toffee Palate: Intensely explosive yet perfectly balanced sweetness with complex nut flavours and some oxidative notes. Some baking spice and drying tannin. Viscous texture that reveals extra-ordinary depth of flavours Finish: Full bodied with a long finish and lush mouthfeel In a nutshell: Seductive nightcap Inside Information: In 1870, Scotsman John Campbell established the vineyard in North East Victoria, which is in the able hands of fourth generation viticulturist Malcolm, and his brother Colin, the winemaker. Rare is the pinnacle of Rutherglen Muscat classification. Grapes are left hanging late in the season, and only wines made from select parcels of premium fruit following the strictest criteria in exceptional vintages can be added to the outstanding solera. This is a blend of wines (base wines can be well over 50 years old) is matured in 450 litre puncheons which do not add any overt influence of oak. Wine can only be withdrawn from the solera when it matches exactly the previous withdrawal that ensure consistency.

From the Bottle: “Merchant Prince” was the sailing vessel on which John Campbell arrived at Port Phillip. The capsule has the seal of “Muscat of Rutherglen, Guarantee of Authenticity” and the 375ml bottle is signed by Colin Campbell (Wine maker) and Malcom Campbell (Viticulturist) who describe it as the pinnacle, the richest, most complex and complete wine.

Inputs for tasting notes by Kamal Malik & Vipul Thakur

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

39

40

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2012

Three

Centuries of Port Text: RAJIV SINGHAL Photographs: AKSHAT ARORA

G

astronomic pleasures are mostly created as fleeting works of art, and not many epicurean delights survive through centuries. Wine is an exception, and ports – or at least the very best ones – are designed to offer delayed gratification over many decades. Yet, the opportunity to taste history created 150 years ago is rare.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

41

A tasting of vintage ports from three centuries is unheard of – at least in India.

However, FINE could think of no better way to introduce the highly esteemed Portuguese wine producer and FINE Life Award winner, Dirk Niepoort and his ports to some of our very special guests in India.

The majestic Le Cirque Boardroom on the 10th floor of the Leela Palace, New Delhi was the venue chosen for this never-beforedone-in-India tasting, and Aishwarya Nair, the Corporate Food & Wine Consultant at The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts was the host. The beautiful set-up, with its panoramic view over the Delhi skyline, set the tone for a spectacular evening.

Dirk Niepoort, a fifth generation wine producer in the Douro region, had delved into his family's treasured cellars to pick out twelve special gems, which ranged from the 21st century all the way back to the mid 19th century, to provide those present with an exceptional opportunity to sample a unique range of historic wines with exceptional provenance.

THE PREPARATION OF THE DELIGHTS In the afternoon, I found Dirk and his 16-year-old son, Eduardo Marco van der Niepoort, at The Leela Palace's opulent Library Bar. The duo had taken charge of

the kings' ransom from the Counsellor at the Embassy of Portugal in India, Filipe de Alcobia de Moraes Sarmento Honrado, and were meticulously checking and preparing the delicate bottles. Under the watchful eye of his father, Marco began to gently tap on the corks. "The corks are old and extremely fragile, so we need to loosen them inside the bottle where they have rested for all these years. Only then we will succeed in extracting the corks intact", Dirk explained when he caught my quizzing glance, before going on to say, "when the bottle carries your name, you need to make absolutely sure that the wine is well handled".

Dirk guided the decantation that helped Marco to get rid of the sediment inside the bottles, and there was a lot of it that had accumulated over the centuries that the bottles had rested in the Niepoort cellars!

The Portuguese Ambassador in India, His Excellency Jorge Roza de Oliveira, exclaimed that the bottles were very wellrested after the long arduous journey that the famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama had taken only a few centuries before!

42

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2012

THE PORT FLIGHTS THAT SPANNED THE CENTURIES The diligent preparations out of the way, and the assurance that every bottle seemed to be in good shape, it was show time at Le Cirque's Boardroom. The exploration of the selected gems from Niepoort family’s treasure began with the youngest of the wines, and the Niepoort Vintage Port 2005 charmed everyone with its astonishingly harmonious and seductive style. It showed such voluptuous and elegantly smooth texture, though it was still in its early stages of development. The very modest Dirk, who was animatedly guiding us through each landmark of this carefully curated journey through history, revealed that this port was as close to perfection as he has ever reached in his winemaking career. The wine stood up very well next to the special line-up of the older ports made by the previous generations of the Niepoort's and their cellar masters from the Nogueira family.

Vintage on vintage, the ports were poured by the dexterous wine troops of the Leela, marshalled by their sommelier, Manu Manikandan. All the wines were in pristine condition. It was impressive to see how well the ports from the lesser vintages stood out.

As the tasting moved towards the older vintages, everyone was gradually amazed by how consistent, vibrant and lively the ports were. Each of ports was so characteristically different, and we marvelled at each one for their wonderful balanced, complexity and strength, having weathered the passage of time with dignity. Some were showing the promise they held for the future.

THE PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE 11 ports later, as the large table was covered by neatly tagged glasses – mostly

empty, it was time for the rarest treasure of the vertical – the impeccable Vintage Port from 1863. Dirk raised a toast, "we have in our glasses, one of the last drops of this historical wine. We have practically no more left of it in our cellar. I wanted, however, to bring it along to emphasize Niepoort's long winemaking history and raise a toast to you for welcoming me to India!"

History was written at this moment, as with this toast, the few wise people had shared the oldest vintage wine known to have been tasted in India. The previous

record was held by the shipwrecked Heidsieck & Co Monopole Goût Américain Champagne from 1907, which had been presented to another select group when we had launched the FINE Wine & Champagne India magazine.

This evening will go down in annals as one that witnessed perhaps one of the greatest tastings ever held in India, it made the very lucky participants understand just how long good ports can last; and that when it comes to Niepoort, the ports seem to be more or less immortal. >

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

43

Niepoort Rare & Fine Port Tasting 1863–2005 2005 Niepoort Vintage Port

94p

1947 Niepoort Colheita Port 96p

1977 Niepoort Garrafeira Port 95p

1937 Niepoort Colheita Port 90p

1976 Niepoort Colheita Port 92p

1917 Niepoort Colheita Port 92p

1970 Niepoort Vintage Port

95p

1912 Niepoort Colheita Port 98p

1957 Niepoort Colheita Port 94p

1900 Niepoort Colheita Port 96p

1952 Niepoort Vintage Port

1863 Niepoort Colheita Port 93p

93p

Niepoort Colheita Port 1863

Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. NA 4 times, last in 11/2012 Moderately deep, brick red Nose: Reserved, complex, spirity, nutty, dark chocolate, liquered cherreis Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, concentrated, firm, spicy, ripe cherries, nutty, raisiny Aftertaste: Long, surprisingly fresh, concentrated, cacao In a Nutshell: This wine does not fit in a nutshell Buy or Not?: Sorry you cannot buy this, you have to be invited to Dirk's and wish he shall open one his last bottles of this lovely port.

Best to Drink: Now Decant Time: 30 minutes Glass Time: 1 hour Food Pairing: What ever Dirk wants to serve you Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Get to know Dirk Inside Information: The wine rested in casks until 1972 when they bottled in demi-johns!

Final Verdict: Magical port Region: Producer: Average Price*: Tasting Time: Appearance:

44

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

92p

96p

Niepoort Colheita Port 1900

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A. Average Price*: €946 Tasting Time: 2 times, last in 4/2012 Appearance: Dark, bright, brown Nose: Intense, reserved, nutty, dried fruits, spices Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, complex, very concentrated, viscous, dried orange peel Aftertaste: Long, focused, spicy, bit edgy, dark chocolate In a Nutshell: Wow Buy or Not?: Absolutely yes!

Best to Drink: Now Decant Time: 30 minutes Glass Time: 2 hours Food Pairing: Forget food Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Château Margaux 1900 Inside Information: The vintage conditions were very irregular n 1900. Douro was covered by snow during early spring which delayed the season. Afterwards season turned out be very hot in August reaching as high temperatures as 42°C before cooling down for harvest. The harvest was completed with very selective picking. A long barrel ageing guaranteed the concentration of the wine and the wine was bottled finally in 1972. The sweet wine has 142.69 grams sugar per liter.

Final Verdict: Firm and powerful port that is full of life

98p

Niepoort Colheita Port 1912

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A. Average Price*: €925 Tasting Time: 2 times, last in 4/2012 Appearance: Intense, tawny Nose: Rich, concentrated, complex, nutty Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, intense, vivid, rich Aftertaste: Long, persistent, very concentrated, crème brûlée In a Nutshell: Wine like a chocolate nougat Buy or Not?: You should buy!

Best to Drink: Now to eternity Decant Time: 30 minutes Glass Time: 2 hours Food Pairing: No food, share with friends Fake Factor: None Or Try This: To get a bottle of this today Inside Information: The vintage of the decade Final Verdict: The most seductive port ever made

* from wine-searcher.com

Niepoort Colheita Port 1917

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A. Average Price*: NA Tasting Time: 2 times, last in 4/2012 Appearance: Intense, tawny Nose: Vivid, opulent, nutty, gently spicy Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, delicately, rich Aftertaste: Long, warming, dried fruits, pralines In a Nutshell: Attractive and elegant Buy or Not?: Yes, buy Best to Drink: Now to 2025 Decant Time: 30 minutes Glass Time: 2 hours Food Pairing: Forget food Fake Factor: None Or Try This: There is nothing else to try than this wine Inside Information: The wine reflects the vintage with relatively delicate character.

Final Verdict: Elegantly feminine port

90p

Niepoort Colheita Port 1937

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A. Average Price*: €571 Tasting Time: 2 times, last in 4/2012 Appearance: Pale, brick red Nose: Pronounced, nutty, woody, spicy, cinnamon, hints of volatility Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, vivid, fresh, viscous, rich, volatile Aftertaste: Moderately long, acidic, spicy In a Nutshell: An elder but still rocking Buy or Not?: Why not?

Best to Drink: Now Decant Time: 30 minutes Glass Time: 1 hour Food Pairing: Aged Manchego Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Dance jive on high heals when you are 75 years old Inside Information: The wine was bottled in 1984.

Final Verdict: A rustic wine with touch of finesse

96p

Niepoort Colheita Port 1947

Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. NA 2 times, last in 4/2012 Medium-intense, bright, tawny Nose: Intense, complex, perfumy, floral, prunes Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, concentrated, firm tannins, elegant, vivid Aftertaste: Long, lingering, silky, smooth, candied orange peel In a Nutshell: Concentration par excellence Buy or Not?: Look at the points – why not?

Best to Drink: Now to 2020 Decant Time: 1 hour Glass Time: 2 hours Food Pairing: Just meditate with this Region: Producer: Average Price*: Tasting Time: Appearance:

FINE Winter 2012

92p

Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Cheval Blanc 1947 Inside Information: This rested in barrels for 27 years before being bottled.

Final Verdict: Expressive and full of life

* from wine-searcher.com

1937 Walt Disney's first full-length animated 1863 Thomas Nast’s feature, Snow White and first visual representation 1970 The Beatles the Seven Dwarfs, hits 1952 Queen Elizabeth of Santa Claus for 1912 RMS Titanic sinks theatres and becomes an II ascends to the British release their last album and then disband Harper’s Weekly throne on its maiden voyage instant classic

1977 Elvis Presley dies at the age of 42

Th r e e c e n t u r i e s o f P o r t b y N i e p o o r t – e v e n t s i n w o r l d h i s t o r y f o r e a c h v i n t a g e 1900 The first Michelin Guide is published

1917 The Russian Revolution and Finnish independence

1947 India gains independence from Great Britain

1957 The USSR launches the first satellite, Sputnik, into space

1976 Air France and British Airways begin Concorde flights

2005 YouTube is launched

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

45

92p

Niepoort Vintage Port 1952

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A. Average Price*: NA Tasting Time: 2 times, last in 4/2012 Appearance: Pale, brick red Nose: Reserved, nutty, spicy, prunes Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, concentrated, high in alcohol, spicy Aftertaste: Long, fresh, warming, concentrated, drying In a Nutshell: Big but elegant Buy or Not?: Not a bad buy Best to Drink: Now to 2020 Decant Time: 2 hours Glass Time: 3 hours Food Pairing: Instead of food, use to warm up your body Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Finnish sauna Inside Information: A poor year Final Verdict: Port with power

46

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

94p

Niepoort Colheita Port 1957

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A. Average Market Price: €327 Tasting Time: 2 times, last in 4/2012 Appearance: Pale, tawny Nose: Open, pronounced, spicy, toasty, nutty, cinnamon Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, rich, intense, lovely, broad, complex, elegant Aftertaste: Long, viscous, intensely fruity, refined In a Nutshell: Wine to bite, so fleshy it is Buy or Not?: Yes Best to Drink: Now to 2025 Decant Time: 1 hour Glass Time: 3 hours Food Pairing: Slice of Stilton Fake Factor: None Or Try This: A juicy steak Inside Information: This wine was aged in barrels until 1977 before it was bottled.

Final Verdict: Wow, what a wine from a lesser vintage that only few producers cleared

95p

Niepoort Vintage Port 1970

Douro, Portugal Niepoort S.A. €139 2 times, last in 4/2012 Medium-intense, bright, ruby red Nose: Concentrated, reserved, complex, spicy, floral, wild strawberries Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, intense, rich, spicy, preserved cherries Aftertaste: Long, warming, silky, mineral, cherries In a Nutshell: Delicate and wellstructured athlete wine Buy or Not?: Run for it!

Best to Drink: 2020–2025 Decant Time: 4 hours Glass Time: 6 hours Food Pairing: Aged cheddar Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Graham's Vintage Port 1970 Inside Information: The vintage of the decade.

Final Verdict: Wine on its 40s but seems like on its 20s Region: Producer: Average Price*: Tasting Time: Appearance:

Niepoort Colheita Port 1976

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A. Average Price*: €153 Tasting Time: 2 times, last in 4/2012 Appearance: Pale, bright, tawny Nose: Closed, spirity, spicy – cardamom, cinnamon, walnuts Taste: Sweet, full-bodied, fresh, vivid, nutty, chocolate Aftertaste: Long, complex, sweet spices, hazelnuts In a Nutshell: Like a sweet chocolate dessert Buy or Not?: Yes Best to Drink: Now to 2020 Decant Time: 2 hours Glass Time: 3 hours Food Pairing: Dessert itself Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Chocolate fondant Inside Information: A poor year was dominated by a long drought period and heavy rainfall during the harvest.

Final Verdict: Surprisingly fresh and energetic port for lesser vintage

95p

Niepoort Garrafeira Port 1977

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A.

Average Price*: €295 Tasting Time: 2 times, last in 4/2012 Appearance: Light, brick red Nose: Complex, nutty, black cherries, walnuts Taste: Medium-bodied, sweet, silky, delicate, fresh Aftertaste: Long, harmonious, lingering, vivid In a Nutshell: A liquid silk Buy or Not?: What are you waiting for? Go and get it!

Best to Drink: Now to 2030 Decant Time: 2 hours Glass Time: 4 hours Food Pairing: Pecorino Sardo Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Gould Campbell 1977 Inside Information: The vintage turned out tp be great although the fruit set in the spring was uneven and the yields were lower than usual. The grapes developed slowly due to the very mild weather in summer. Finally the heat wave took place in September and the grapes ripened rapidly. The wine was aged 3 to 6 years in casks and around 20 years in demi-johns.

The wine has 109.7 grams residual sugar per litre.

Final Verdict: A port like a good red Grand Cru Burgundy

94p

Niepoort Vintage Port 2005

Region: Douro, Portugal Producer: Niepoort S.A. Average Price*: €70 Tasting Time: 4 times, last in 11/2012 Appearance: Deep, opaque, purple Nose: Intense, jammy, spicy, floral, licorice Taste: Full-bodied, sweet, silky tannins, rich, jammy, spicy, brambles, dark chocolate, harmonious Aftertaste: Long, smooth, silky, concentrated In a Nutshell: A perfect port Buy or Not?: Absolutely yes!

Best to Drink: Now to 2040 Decant Time: 10 hours Glass Time: 6 hours Food Pairing: Mature Gorgonzola cheese Fake Factor: None Or Try This: Cashmere gloves Inside Information: Dirk Niepoort considers this port as the most perfect wine he has ever made. The grapes for this wine derive from 60 to 100 year-old vines. The season in 2005 was very hot and humid. The weather yielded small and concentrated grapes. The wine has 97.9 grams residual sugar per litre.

Final Verdict: Such a sophisticated port

FINE Winter 2012

92p

THE GENERAL QUALITY OF THE TASTED PORT VINTAGES 2005 – Outstanding

1947 – Very good

1977 – Outstanding

1937 – Weak

1976 – Poor

1917 – Moderate

1970 – Outstanding

1912 – Outstanding

1957 – Weak

1900 – Outstanding

1952 – Poor

1863 – Outstanding

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

47

48

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE FALL 2012

The FINE Life Award is presented by FINE Magazines to individuals whose long-term contribution has been of outstanding significance to the greater cultural field of wine.

This award recognises both the recipient’s achievements and encourage them to continue on the path of developing the culture of wine.

FINE Life Award This FINE Life Award takes the form of a bespoke handcrafted Sarpaneva timepiece, which operates using kinetic energy, made

by Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva. Symbolising the ethos of the FINE Life Award, in order to run, the timepiece requires its master to move.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

49

50

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE FALL 2012

The FINE Magazines editorial team rewards people in the wine industry who have acted philanthropically and persistently in order to share their passion for the finest wine experiences with wine lovers around the world. In doing this, they have raised the profile of an entire region’s wines by paving the way for better quality wines and wine experiences.

The accolade is not given annually, but only when there is reason for it.

It was first awarded in 2009 to Bill Harlan of Napa Valley for his ambitious work setting new standards for Napa Valley wines and building opportunities for catering to high-end tourism in the area.

Dirk Niepoort.

The FINE Life Award is now being awarded to the Portuguese fifthgeneration winemaker

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

51

52

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE FALL 2012

FINE Life Award 2012 Text: RAJIV SINGHAL Photography: AKSHAT ARORA

I

n the winter of 2011, FINE Magazines identified another (and only the second) rightful owner of the handmade timepiece by Sarpaneva, that embodies the spirit of the FINE

Life Award. It is decided that this award will be conferred upon Dirk Niepoort, the innovative and revolutionary fifth generation of the Dutch family dedicated to the Portuguese estate that bears their name, Niepoort that has been independent since 1842.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

53

54

We know no other person in the wine business who spends as much time working on increasing the renown of their country’s wine industry around the world.

Fluent in seven languages, Dirk travels more than 250 days per year, talking about his region’s wines and organising events and tastings. Anybody who has encountered Dirk is bound to remember the humble, caring and warm, yet sharptongued and challenging, Ambassador for modern Portuguese wines. His excellent wines speak the same language.

the best-known wine personality in the country – not to mention being responsible for some of Portugal’s best port wines, which carry his name.

Leela Palace in New Delhi. Portuguese wine heritage would be showcased to Indian oenophiles at this unprecedented presentation.

It was decided that India would be the perfect location to honour this globetrotter. FINE is convinced that India is a market for the not-so-distant future. Dirk thinks and acts ahead of his times, and it was probably the India bait that got him to open a tiny window in March on an otherwise chock-a-block agenda.

Dirk proposed 11 gems from his muchtalked-about Douro range of still wines (both red and white), interspersed with some of Niepoort's acclaimed Ports, to orchestrate a symphony with the elaborate seven course menu that was put together by the ever-so-kind Aishwarya Nair.

With his unprejudiced endeavours he has raised Portuguese red wines to a completely new level, and he is now

The stage was set for a FINE dinner on the 15th of March around the presentation of this special award at the spectacular

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

The Ambassador of Portugal in India, His Excellency Jorge Oliveira and Counsellor Filipe Honrado patiently weathered the frustrating procedures of

FINE FALL 2012

Indian bureaucracy, and the wine booty was handed over to Rajesh Namby's wine team in the nick of time.

Dirk's attention to detail was stamped on the wines, which were forwarded with special handling instructions. And during whatever part of the day he was not spiceshopping in the walled city, he checked and prepared each bottle alongside the next generation under training, his teenage son,

Eduardo Marco van der Niepoort and the very able sommelier Manu Manikandan.

The opulent Grand Ballroom at The Leela Palace was transformed into a glittering candle-lit dining room. The arrangements had the personal touch of the General Manager Tamir Kobrin, who has promised a jaw dropper. Under the magnificence of the pair of breathtaking chandeliers, as wax dripped from the

Victorian candelabras, each stem in the sea of glasses was star struck – they had been paired to share the evening with a celebrity wine!

Our 47 guests honoured the reputation of the chic Swiss watches they wore, and arrived at the appointed hour. The group was drawn from FINE friends – wine connoisseurs, wine critics and wine lovers – and they come from far and wide.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

55

For the aperitif, Dirk chose a very old dry port – it was white – it was unusual!

In between ageing in pipes, in demijohns (from the 18th century) and in its current bottle, the port was probably about 100 years old. It was very expressive and generous, but very balanced.

The excitement was palpable as the fine wines of the Douro took centre stage. Dirk proudly presented the white wines from the Douro – the deliciously crisp and impressive Tiara 2010 and Redoma Branco Reserva 2006. The reds that followed were elegantly nuanced and fine-grained – far from being heavy and rich, which is what a hot region like Douro should yield. Redoma Tinto 2001 impressed with its dark chocolate character. Batuta 2004 was a Beauty and the Beast wine that showed finesse and opulence through its layers. Dirk's flagship wine, Charme was so Burgundy-like. It had an appealing perfumed, floral and red fruit character with spicy minerality. The 2006 was a bit tight and reserved while 2008 was more expressive with intense fruitiness. Our guests were privileged to discover these sophisticated icons of Portuguese still wine.

The FINE Life Award 2012 was formally presented to Dirk Niepoort by Saana Kukkavaara, the next generation at FINE Magazines. To make this moment so much more special, Dirk and his

56

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE FALL 2012

accompanying significant other, the vivacious Nina Gruntkowski, toasted with a very very rare port made by his grandfather, that nobody else had tasted except his father (in the early eighties) and him (in the late nineties). This was a unique opportunity to share this vibrant, very aromatic and elegant port – the Indian Independence vintage 1947 – with India. It was so typical – delicate, expressive and a very long aftertaste!!

In his humble acceptance, Dirk outlined his passion for his wines and the Douro region, his respect for tradition, his collective approach, his innovations to power the future, his strategy beyond his present markets and his taste for challenge.

As if to allow the glorious, steeped-intradition ports to take a bow, the 30 years old Tawny was served with Stilton and Cheddar. The most complicated blend at Niepoort showcased the master blenders – the 5th generation of the Niepoort family is in parallel with the 5th generation of the Nogueira family. Dirk described it as a

love-hate port – it was amazingly balanced, austerely dry, very seductive and grew on the palate.

the guests through this culinary journey – he got their tongues to match the hue of his dress and palates wet.

The impeccably served wines from a hitherto unknown region vied for guests' attention as much as Dirk's bright blue kurta and his ultra-curly locks. The masters' genius was evident as he effortlessly guided

FINE events have earned a neverdone-in-India-before reputation. Glass by glass, FINE is laying the foundation for fine wine in a very difficult landscape in India...>

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

57

The FINE Ambassadors' and High Commissioners' Table Our Sixth Anniversary Dinner

Text: RITU SINGHAL Photographs: SHIVAM BHATI

58

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2017

F

INE Wine & Champagne India, the first and only officially

registered wine magazine in India, has turned six. We are hosting the sixth edition of the very unique global wine extravaganza – the FINE Ambassadors’& High Commissioners’ Table. This is

an occasion for friends of wine and friends of FINE to come together to savour the wines that have been individually chosen de rigueur and will be presented by the heads of the diplomatic missions from the world of wine.

The format remains unchanged since this table was conceptualised

Jennifer and Nadir, the protocol team and staff are meticulously

for FINE’s first anniversary, except that this year the venue has

taking care of re-arranging furniture, tagging seats, laying out the

moved from one spectacular location

chinaware on the tables, flagging the

to another. The High Commissioner

glassware in order of service, lighting

for Canada to India, H.E. Nadir Patel,

candle lamps, tweaking the flower

and his wife Jennifer Graham, have

décor, plating the feast, briefing the

very kindly opened the doors of their

liveried footmen, accounting (sadly)

official residence – Canada House –

for last minute dropouts...

the sprawling heritage bungalow in Lutyens’ Delhi.

Our Sommelier for the evening, Vipul Thakur, has taken the treasure chest

As the sun sets on another summer

holding the wine in his charge and

day in Delhi, the OR is buzzing with

sets himself to the task of checking

activity. Under the watchful eye of

the wine, decanting, serving at correct

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

59

Dipak Haksar temperature, and pouring into the right glass for maximum pleasure of the oenophiles that are joining us. This year, the exceptional bottle line-up is a baker’s dozen covering all continents but one of the world's wine production – represented by Australia, Canada, Champagne, Chile, France, Hungary, New Zealand, Portugal, Spain and the United States of America with wines from “lesser known” regions – Israel, Mexico, Serbia. All the bottles have travelled from far and beyond and are waiting anxiously for their heads of mission to share their story.

One final look, and we are all ready to welcome our distinguished guests to the reception. The Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc 2014 from the United States of America and the Balduzzi Carmanere 2014 from Chile are served with delectable pass arounds. An air of bonhomie swiftly fills the reception room.

H.E. Nadir calls for attention and shares how privileged he and Jennifer are to host this spectacular FINE Anniversary and to welcome a dozen or so Ambassadors and High Commissioners, with special guests and friends, in one very, very special evening, in which we expect to get to know each other (and know more about some countries) a bit better – through wine.

As Chief Executive of FINE, I share my gratitude with the Heads of Missions of participating countries for their selection of wines that we will savour as we hear them defend their choice. I welcome the guests, “FINE has grown from strength to strength in spreading the gospel of fine wine in India. Every anniversary is an opportunity to take stock, and we are delighted to have succeeded beyond expectations. As the country’s only officially registered and recognised wine magazine, we don’t have to remain under the radar.” I thank all our advertisers, partners and supporters for

60

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Nikhil Sawhney supporting our pioneering journey with the hope that they will continue to and more will join us as our journey challenges the next frontier.

FINE’s efforts to bring Chile to represent South America at the FINE Table are successful this year. It has been a long wait – H.E. Andres Barbe Gonzalez, the Ambassador of Chile, and his wife Lorena Escobar are delighted to make it with the regional icon – Carménère from Balduzzi (2014) – the new world wine from old world grapes.

If the “Reception” red is from South America, the “Reception” white is from the North. Charge d' Affaires of the Embassy of the United States of America, MaryKay Carlson hails from Arkansas, better known for the more potent “Moonshine White Lightening” (a white corn whiskey). With Minister Counsellor for Agricultural Affairs, Scott Sindelar, the history of wine in the United States is traced back 300 years to the founder, Thomas Jefferson, the first wine maker. The United States is the fourth largest producer of wine, with every single one of the fifty states producing wine – no mean task given the geographical diversity. The refreshing Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc 2014 represents the clean, clear, right taste that Washington wines are famous for.

As we sit down, three glasses with flags of Israel, Serbia and Mexico are placed before us. The “novelty showcase”, introduced at the FINE Ambassadors’ & High Commissioners’ Table of last year’s vintage to make wine more approachable and more accessible to more people in India, has found favour with the diplomatic missions. The market for wine in India remains difficult, and some Ambassador’s from the not-so-well-known wine countries have been keen to present wines from their countries at this rare

and most well-equipped winery in Serbia and toasted with “Živeli” (Serbian for long live).

H.E. Daniel Carmon, Israel’s Ambassador, has been convinced by FINE friend and FINE Ambassador, Jess Dutton, to participate in the FINE Anniversary with his wife Ditza Froim – it took three years! He shares that he was born to the Winestone family and when asked to change to Hebrew names, his family changed to “Carmon”, which means “little vineyard”. Presenting a 2014 Reisling from the Kayoumi Vineyards of Carmel Winery, he tells us that Carmel Winery, founded on the slopes of Carmel Mountain, is the largest winery in the country that started with “Kosher” wine. He further claims that the wine industry in Israel is 5000 years old – with few gaps – and has developed well enough for him to present a high altitude single vineyard Riesling that is “not as sweet and not anything drier than a regular Riesling should be”.

H.E. Melba Pria, Mexico’s Ambassador, presents the last novelty wine by requesting all to take a sip of water. Contrary to popular belief, she tells us that wine was produced a very very long time ago in Mexico – to be presented as a “novelty” gives a very old trade a “facelift”. In 1568, the conquistadores came to Parras, an important mining valley and, in 1594, monks set up the first winery in what was then the “new world”. Her choice is the awarded and cheered 3V 2015, which is the favourite pet of the season for Casa Madero from Parras. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo leaves the sense of the first kiss in the mouth feel.

For H.E. Vladimir Maric, Serbia’s Ambassador, it’s a delight, pleasure and honour for him – and his wife Jovana – to join the FINE Table, where some countries present are leading wine producers in the world. “To present Aleksandrovic Trijumf Noir 2012 from a country which is small in terms of size, in terms of population, and in terms of wine production, I am extremely happy.” Justifying his selection, he chose the most famous wine from vineyards located near the town “Vinča” made by the biggest

Deepikka and Rattan Jindal

FINE Winter 2017

opportunity. This year, FINE has pulled off another coup and wines of Israel, Serbia and Mexico make their debut.

Our hosts, H.E. Nadir and Jennifer, have proposed very exotic ingredients and delicacies from Canada in the avant garde menu to make the evening fun and adventurous – their version of culinary diplomacy. Nadir seizes this moment to make an intervention and announces that "there will be several through the evening”. He points to the cheese table that has been set up in the room and reminds all guests that they should help themselves through the evening to change their palate between courses or just to sample a particular type of cheese with a wine or to serve themselves the to-die-for papdi chaat liberally dosed with cranberry and maple syrup. Jess Dutton, the Canadian Deputy, takes the mic and takes

Mannu Sandhu

Asha and Raj Kubba

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

61

established as New Zealand’s selection varietal and today, the New Zealand wine industry is a billion dollar industry and the 6th largest quality export. She proposes the very fresh, explosive flavours and very recognisable style of the Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2014 from Marlborough with Pan-roasted Celeriac and Spiced Artichokes (Banana Sea Bass for the non-vegetarians).

The next flight is a white and a red from two very different wine worlds paired with Grilled Polenta with Caramelized Onions, Radicchio and Taleggio Cheese (Lobster Garam Masala with Cranberry-Fenugreek Pilaf for the non-vegetarians).

H.E. Joao da Camara, the Ambassador of Portugal accompanied by his wife Raquel, chooses to present from the famed “world heritage” Douro region in the north of Portugal – not the eponymous Port but an unfortified white wine – Quinta da Maritávora Reserva Branco 2012 from the Douro Superior. “In the 19th century, the father of the very famous Portuguese poet, Guerra Junqueiro, bought some farms here and started a winery. Today, some vines date back 150 years and this wine is organic. But most important, the wine captures and promotes poetry in your glass.” the gracious hospitality of Canada House to another level, “out in the corridor there are rooms with beds, so feel free to take a break from wine for a wine nap”.

Rajiv Singhal, the Ambassador of Champagne to India, cannot mask his bias as he speaks of FINE Wine & Champagne India as a wonderful publication! Thanking FINE and our Canadian hosts for another opportunity to present the finest to the finest, he has had bubbles from the kingdom of Champagne poured into the flutes. Champagne Deutz was founded a few centuries ago in Ay (the heartland of grand cru pinot noir) and the grande marque is now owned by the Rouzaud family (owners of Louis Roederer), who firmly believe that the vine is the key to good wine. Choosing not to describe tasting notes, which he believes are individual and personal, he does share that the Deutz Brut Classic NV shows great harmony and perfect balance – even more so with the Octo Chaat (South Indian Lasagna for vegetarians).

H.E. Joanna Kempkers, the New Zealand High Commissioner accepted our invitation to present at the FINE Table just as she arrived in Delhi with her husband, Dr. Tim Markwell. As if to put history in perspective, she shares how in 1973 when the first Sauvignon Blanc vines were being planted in Marlborough in New Zealand, she was a 2 year old crawling around her parents living room floor. In two decades, Sauvignon Blanc had been firmly

62

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

H.E. Harinder Sidhu, the Australian High Commissioner takes us back to 1788 and the first vine plantings by the settlers. She recalls that when her family arrived in Australia in the early 1970s, all one could get was rather awful cheap plonk. The industry adapted and evolved and now, 24 million Australians consume 500 million litres of wine! She let her trusted and diligent deputy, Chris Elstoft, take care of special duties that require special expertise and in depth

FINE Winter 2017

insights, such as wine. Chris presents Ten Minutes by Tractor Estate Pinot Noir 2015, the arrival of which has been facilitated by Jess’ special “VinGardeValise”. This wine has been selected to showcase a relatively new wine region in Australia, Mornington Peninsula, where Pinot Noir has been planted “only” since the 1970s. Chris sums up with the suggestion to get onto the direct Air India flight to Melbourne and enjoy more such wines at the cellar doors in “Melbourne’s playground”.

Jess Dutton is introduced as the resident Sommelier and wine aficionado at Canada House, what some may also know is that he moonlights as the Deputy High Commissioner of Canada to India!

Recognising that many in the room may not have tried a Canadian wine before, he steered away from the most obvious choices to present the Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 from the Okanagan Valley from the beautiful province of British Columbia. The winery claims its name from an oddity in the owl species that burrows in the ground, hunts on its long legs, is migratory and became extinct in the eighties. Jim Wyse (Founder & Proprietor) took his winery’s christening rather seriously and supported wildlife conservationists with some millions, so that Burrowing Owls are thriving again!

It is time for the main course – Lamb Tandoor cheese encrusted lamb chops au jus with sweet-neem-leaf potatoes (Courgette Floral Barley delicately spiced barley with courgette flowers and maple-glazed roast vegetables with smoked avocado purée for the vegetarians) – and the wines are old world Europe.

The Ambassador of France, H.E. Alexandre Ziegler, and his wife Veronique selected Les Grands Ducs Saint Julien 2013 from their cellars to present at the FINE Table, but had to nominate JeanMarc Fenet to come in their stead. A balance between elegance and refinement and power and substance is how Jean-Marc describes this wine, of which only 41,000 bottles are produced in a year.

He recalls medieval Grand Dukes as wine connoisseurs and ends with the expression, “fait la tournee les Grands Ducs” – to enjoy a very pleasant evening with excellent wines and lovely conversations amongst friends!

The new Spanish Ambassador H.E. Jose Baranano asked Emilio Contreras to represent Spain at the FINE Table (for the third year running). He describes Spain as a land of extremes – hot regions and cold regions, monasteries and vineyards, Real Madrid and Barca, Rioja and Ribera”. And presents Celeste Crianza Ribera del Duero 2013 – a Ribera wine that he describes as a perfect example of the spirit of innovation of the very famous and world’s most admired wine brand, Torres.

Traditional Canadian Nanaimo Chocolate bars; Hot Butter Tarts with Fresh fruits; White Chocolate Mousse with Saffron Sponge and Lemon Curd Tart with Meringue make the dessert platter that comes out – so sinful, yet divine.

Brian Parrott, Minister Counsellor Commercial at the Canadian

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

63

High Commission, is tasked to enlighten us about the historic “Nanaimo Bar”. Nanaimo is a coal town on the east coast of Vancouver Island, and it is believed that the bar found its way into miner lunchboxes. Its first recipe was created by the ladies auxiliary of the Nanaimo Hospital Society in 1952. The recipe was published in the Edith Adams Cook Book, produced by the Vancouver Sun, that became a given on every kitchen shelf. An attempt to register as a Geographical Indication, that British Columbia could be proud of, was sacrificed in negotiations with the Belgians. In the spirit of the evening, Brian concludes with tasting notes for the Nanaimo bar too, “a nose of dark chocolate, a bit of burnt custard on the palate, and of course a lovely finish of Graham crackers and coconut”.

The 13th wine has been served. The Ambassador of Hungary, H.E. Gyula Pethő has waited patiently (he vows to present a rosé next year to come up the order) for his turn to present the Barta Oreg Kiraly Dulo Tokaji Szamorodni 2013 from the oldest wine region in Hungary since 1572. “Szamorodni” was how the Polish named the wine, it means made by itself. When collected, the grapes already

64

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

have noble rot which gives the high sugar content – minimum 21%. His wife, Annamaria Somogyi, insists that the wine is worth the wait – all concur.

H.E. Nadir sums up the tasting notes that he has picked up this evening – hints of cassis, berries, plums, hickory, tobacco and some rather unusual ones – bacon and charred meat. He highlights that key ingredients such as Cranberries, Maple syrup, Canola oil of Canadian origin had been used by Chef Sanjay, who put this wonderful feast on the table to pair with 13 wines entirely with his team in the kitchens of Canada House.

With Jennifer, he thanks all for the collective participation in this very, very fun evening.

Each FINE Anniversary has been celebrated by different wines, different styles of food, different wine-lovers, and in this case, a different location. The spirit of participation by our FINE friends across the world has built the tradition that the FINE Ambassadors’ & High Commissioners’ Table has come to epitomise.

Balduzzi Maule Valley Carmenere 2014

Region: Maule Valley, Chile Varietal: Carmenere Appearance: Pale ruby with some violet tints Aromas: Fruity, dark cherry, blackberry, slightly woody Taste: Red fruit compote, black plum, hints of peppery spice, soft tannins Finish: Smooth, short and slightly bitter When to drink: Now Inside Information: When the first vines of Chile were planted back in the 16th century, they were planted in the Maule Valley, which is today one the biggest wine regions in the country. Balduzzi is about 250 kms from Santiago, is family owned and is managed by the 3rd generation. The February 2010 earthquake brought significant devastation – almost 6,00,000 litres of macerating wine was lost and a further 20 stainless steel tanks spilled the wine which was fermenting quite literally flooding the entire estate with wine.

In a nutshell: It’s come a long way

Carmel Winery Riesling Kayoumi Vineyards 2015 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Aromas:

Upper Galilee, Israel Riesling Straw yellow with silver tints Blossoms, just ripe apples, lemon zest with a hint of gasoline Taste: Citrussy, juicy apricots, pears, minerally with lively acidity Finish: Lingering with a minerally citrus edge When to drink: Now Inside Information: Carmel Winery is not the oldest, but one of the most historic wineries and now amongst the biggest in Israel. The first colonists in this part of the world approached the Boardeaux Baron, Edmond de Rothschild of Château Lafite, to lay the foundation in the Ya’acov region in the north of the territory in 1882. This wine has origins in Kayoumi vineyard, on the south easterly slopes of Upper Galilee, where the Johannesburg Riesling. The vineyards are at an altitude of 750 m above sea level, which keeps it rather cold, and very cool climate-like.

In a nutshell: Israeli precision in the art world

FINE Winter 2017

Fine India Sixth Anniversary Tasting Notes Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Region: Columbia Valley, Washington State, USA Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc Appearance: Light yellow-green Aromas: Lemon zest, herbaceous, pear, fragrant berries Taste: Grapefruit, golden apple, grass, hint of honeydew melon Finish: Medium firm, crisp and minerally When to drink: Now Inside Information: The Seattle lumber baron Frederick Stimson built the estate in 1912. Fifty years ago, Ste. Michelle Vineyards launched premium “European style” wine as Columbia Valley of Washington state. The founding fathers of the “founding winery in Washington” set out to prove –wrong the misconception that “great wine can come only from Italy or California” and inspired the thriving wine industry in this state – which is now home to nearly 1,000 wineries and 14 American Viticultural Areas.

In a nutshell: Perfect starter

Aleksandrović Trijumf Noir 2012 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Aromas:

Oplenac, Serbia Pinot Noir Light garnet with purple tints Red fruits, cranberry, ripe cherry, plum, spice and whiff of smoke Taste: Pre-dominantly plum, redcurrant, blackberry, with vanilla and toast Finish: A medium to long finish and palate coating velvety tannins When to drink: Now to 2018 Inside Information: Family Aleksandrović has been in the wine world for more than a century.

The great grandfather, Miloš, was one of the founders of Vinča Winegrowers Cooperative back in 1903. Trijumf was one the most sought after wines in the royal courts of Europe before World War II. In 1991, Živan Tadić who was a famous royal cellarmaster who had migrated to Canada following the World Wars, learnt about the attempts of the family Aleksandrović to revive Serbian winemaking traditions and shared the original recipe of ‘Trijumf’ with the Vinčas. This marked a new chapter in the long history of this family in wine. They are today the biggest and the most well-equipped winery in Serbia.

In a nutshell: A differently mastered Pinot

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

65

Casa Madero 3V 2015 Region: Valle de Parras, Mexico Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo Appearance: Intense deep ruby with purplish tints Aromas: Complex, red cherries, plum, black fruit compote, clove, pepper, cedar Taste: Berries, bramble, liquorice, vanilla, charred wood with ripe grippy tannins Finish: Well balanced, lingering and very pleasant When to drink: Now to 2020 Inside Information: The oldest winery in the Americas – four centuries old – when Mission of Santa María de las Parras made the first wine from native vineyards in the Parras valley.

The Madero family, which also gave Mexico a President, modernise the facilities since the 19th century and send successive generations to train in Europe. Since 1893, Casa Madero has played a pioneering role – among others the first ISO9001: 2008 Certification and the first organic vineyards in Mexico with the National Organic Program of USDA Organic. In 2013, tasted blind by 134 professional tasters from around the world, the Chenin Blanc 2012, was selected as the Best White Wine of the entire Vinalies Paris competition from 3,425 international wines.

In a nutshell: Colourful + vibrant + robust = Mexican

Ten Minutes by Tractor Mornington Peninsula Estate Pinot Noir 2015

Region: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia Varietal: Pinot Noir Appearance: Medium dark ruby Aromas: Ripe, slightly tart red fruit, raspberries, currants, cherries with some oaky vanilla Taste: Red berry compote, black fruits, velvety tannins and hint of bacon and sea salt Finish: Strong herbaceous and minty When to drink: Now till 2019 Inside Information: Basis three unique vineyard sites, the first wines were made in 2000 by Richard McIntyre. Martin Spedding bought in 2003 with a view to making wine that is specific to his expanded vision of terroir. The cellar door restaurant presents chef Stuart Bell’s contemporary cuisine with fresh regional produce, head sommelier Jacques Savary de Beauregarda’s wine list that’s been judged Australia’s best, and magnificent views over the vineyards. Recognition came from James Halliday, “one of the cleverest pieces of marketing, the unforgettable name reinforced by superb graphics”.

In a nutshell: A go to Mornington

66

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Wither Hills Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Region: Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc Appearance: Pale gold with green tints Aromas: Lime, gooseberries, sweet peas, hints of tropical guava and slightly herbaceous Taste: Refined, bone dry with zesty acidity just like biting into a fresh juicy grapefruit.

Pomelo, sweet bell peppers and some minerality. Fresh and succulent, Bright and cheerful.

Finish: Chalky, tropical, medium dry When to drink: Now to 2018 Inside Information: The story of one man, a local winemaker, who didn’t desire fame and fortune. Crafting the very best wine from Marlborough’s exceptional vineyards bordering the Wither Hills mountain range to represent their sense of place was his passion. And getting his hands dirty described him. Three vineyards – Rarangi, Taylor River and Benmorven – produce the premium single vineyard range. The winery is accredited with Sustainable Winegrowing NZ and the cellar door restaurant offers sweeping views of the Richmond Ranges and the gorgeous Wither Hills in the Wairau Valley.

In a nutshell: Delightful refresher

Maritávora Reserva Bianco Douro 2012 Region: Douro Valley, Portugal Varietal: Blend of many indigenous such as Rabigato, Códega do Larinho, Viosinho Appearance: Intense straw gold Aromas: Mature, hay, dried apples, cheese, tangerines Taste: Powerful, intense, preserved fruits, cinnamon with very lively acidity Finish: Citrusy long and lingering When to drink: Now to 2022 Inside Information: Quinta da Maritávora is one of the oldest family-owned and operated wineries in Portugal. In the 19th century, José Junqueiro Júnior, father of the poet Guerra Junqueiro, acquired farms in the Freixo de Espada-à-Cinta district of the Douro valley – a region which is Portugal’s coolest in winter and infernally hot in summers. Vines are planted in poor schists soil on wine terraces that line the slopes of the Douro. Tough conditions make the wine strong, full of character, which is loaded with wisdom and maturity with age.

The estate uses indigenous varietals, practices minimal intervention winemaking, and ferments in cement “lagares”. An organic wine – fruit of its own circumstances.

In a nutshell: Traditional specimen of nonfortified Douro

Region: Okanagan, Canada Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon Appearance: Deep garnet, opaque with some orange tints Aromas: Dark fruit, cherries, cassis, black olives, dusty oak, cedar, tobacco and dry sage Taste: Complex structure, prune, dried plums, dried cherries, charred meats, fine grained mouth coating tannins Finish: Intensely flavourful, spicy and minty When to drink: Now Inside Information: Founder Jim Wyse is committed to balance. The Hippocratic oath “to do no harm” underlies the creative viticultural and oenological practices at Burrowing Owl. The fragile ecosystems present challenges.

Bluebird boxes and bat nurseries are standard alternative pest control systems. Meadowlark nests are protected by barriers so that they are not inadvertently destroyed by machinery/ workers. Snakes are safely relocated. Bears and big horned sheep are discouraged from sharing the harvest but never harmed.

In a nutshell: British Columbian powerhouse

Celeste Crianza Ribera del Duero 2013 Region: Varietal: Appearance: Aromas:

Ribera del Duero, Spain Tempranillo Deep ruby Ripe strawberry, dark cherry, blackberry, violets and a hint of Ethiopian coffee Taste: Elegant body and structure.

Black fruit compote, silky tannins with a hint of leather.

Finish: Pleasingly long When to drink: Now till 2023 Inside Information: At an altitude of 895 metres, you can almost touch the stars and shape the clouds, and it is here that Celeste is born. This is the Torres family’s first Ribera del Duero – a wine that exemplifies their spirit of innovation. Sometime in the eighties, Miguel Torres Sr. started a very ambitious project to revive native Catalan grape varietals that had “disappeared” with the objective to protect their patrimoine for the next generations.

Universities in Tarragona and Montpellier were brought in to identify them and as many as 32 “lost” varietals have been recovered.

In a nutshell: Spanish innovation

FINE Winter 2017

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Barta Öreg Király Dűlű Tokaj Szamorodni 2013

Les Grands Ducs Saint-Julien 2013 Region: Saint-Julien, Bordeaux, France Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc Appearance: Deep ruby, opaque and dark orange tints Aromas: Lavender, red berries, dark fruits with hints of toast, vanilla and cedar Taste: Juicy, berry compote, dried blackberry, hint of cedar and cassis. Ripe supple tannins.

Finish: Balance of elegance, refinement and power When to drink: Now to 2028 Inside Information: Aquitaine in the South West of France is a very beautiful part of France, yet disputed. The Queen of Aquitaine became the wife of the King of England and the history of long wars was finally put to rest as the English found love for Bordeaux wines! The French King Henry the 3rd owned some chateaux in the village of Beychevelle in the Saint-Julien AOC. “Beychevelle” is old French for “to drop the sails” and it is believed that all boats sailing along the coast as they headed to sea dropped sails as they sailed past.

In a nutshell: Aristocrat

Region: Tokaji, Hungary Varietal: Typical Tokaj blend of Furmit, Hárslevelű and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains Appearance: Bright lively gold Aromas: Honey, orange peel, dried apricots, mangoes with a touch of caramelization and sweet spices Taste: Sweet lime, mangoes, honeycomb, candied pineapple and a bit of hazelnut toffee. Cloying sweetness stands out on the ripe fruit character Residual sugar: 115 g/l Finish: Well balanced and medium When to drink: Now till 2019 Inside Information: In the 19th century, the extravagant Russian Czar who was very fond of the “wines of the gods”, rented a village in the region of Tokaj from the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. About a dozen officers from his military were commissioned to stay in that village with clear orders – choose the best wines for the Czar. But the better part of the job was to taste all the wines and obviously get drunk.

In the 21st century, Barta offers you a similar option. Stay in the historic Rákóczi-Aspremont mansion on the estate in the village of Mád and taste the wines of the estate – to get drunk is your choice!

In a nutshell: Extraordinary dessert

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

67

The Fine Ambassadors and High Commissioners

The Hosts Nadir Patel & Jennifer Graham (Canada)

Australia Harinder Sidhu

68

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

The Hosts Ritu Singhal (Fine), Rajiv Singhal (Champagne)

USA MaryKay L Carlson

Mexico Melba Pria

FINE Winter 2017 Chile Andres Barbe & Lorena Escobar

Hungary Gyula Pethő & Annamari Somogyi

Israel Daniel Carmon & Ditza Froim

New Zealand Joanna Kempkers & Tim Markwell

Portugal João da Camara & Raquel da Camara

Serbia Vladimir Maric & Jovana Maric

Canada Jess Dutton & Sigrid Schlueter

France Jean-Marc Fenet

Spain Emilio C. Benitez & Tanushree Jain

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

69

Bordelais

70

in Indiaa

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2012

W

ines classified as Bordeaux Grand Cru sit at the pinnacle of

the world wine quality

pyramid. Their perceived value is very strong in India.

Historically, Indian royalty have been extremely loyal patrons. Iconic Bordeaux is a given “must-have� on the emerging wine lists in hotels and restaurants in India.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

71

Established in 1973, the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux is a very prestigious collective of 133 wineries from across the appellations in Bordeaux. Taken together, the members of the Union des Grands Crus have some 5,000 hectares of vines, 2,500 employees, a total annual production of nearly 32 million bottles, and an annual turnover of approximately 300 million euros.

The mission, “in union there is strength”, brings the member estates together to present their wines at several tastings around the world and share information about them with those curious to know more.

This summer, Sylvie Cazes, the first-ever female President of the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux, led a group of 33 members for their first-ever visit to India – to showcase the outstanding highly acclaimed 2009 vintage at

72

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

and Delhi.

And FINE is proud to have made this historic visit of the galaxy of wine superstars possible so that these exceptional Bordeaux wines

FINE Winter 2012

Grand Tastings in the wine cities of Mumbai

could be shared with true oenophiles. The series of tastings planned for this historic visit required special permissions from the regulators. While the system is well-defined and well-oiled, a sudden change in policy completely stalled the registration process. A really high-level intervention from the state government granted exceptional approval for our Best of Bordeaux tastings, even if at the very last second.

At the Grand Tastings for the professionals at the Sofitel Mumbai BKC and The Oberoi Gurgaon (Delhi’s very challenging regulations forced the move to neighbouring Haryana),

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

73

the wines were displayed in an exhibition style format laid out in minute detail that was expected to mirror the standard template for any tastings in any city in the world.

The owners and senior management of the member estates personally shared their wines. The scale and reputation of the wines presented made this a landmark occasion for wine professionals, wine lovers and curious enthusiasts.

Madame Cazes said, “India presents a great opportunity for fine wine. Our wines have a strong notoriety here. India offers limited and restricted access, even if the very complex and regulated market makes for very trying conditions. But, we are very excited to establish our footprint.�

74

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2012 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

75

Bordelais in

76

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2012

Indiac

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

77

Taking advantage of the visit of this galaxy of wine superstars, FINE hosted a gala event for the crème-de-le-crème and key decision makers in the wine world and wine loving consumers.

The first ever Best of Bordeaux Sunday Brunch was held at threesixtyone° at The Oberoi Gurgaon. Our gracious co-host, Kapil Chopra, relocated some restaurant regulars for the much sought after champagne

78

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2012

brunch, so that the brunch was a FINE exclusive. With the spectacular sit down four course dinner with a wine buffet in the Grand Ballroom of the Sofitel Mumbai BKC, a power list of almost 250 FINE subscribers and friends were involved – all spoilt for choice with 39 outstanding wines of special vintages going back to the nineties. The Ambassador of France in India, H.E. François Richier joined this landmark celebration.

The Bordelais were thrilled with the opportunity to “touch and feel” the Indian market; to “sniff” to understand the market complexities; to make good the information deficit; and to “get to know us through our wines”. There is a need to build on this foundation, and re-iterate these wines to the Indian consumer – so that those snooping can’t step into this space.

This visit took some time coming, but it was truly worth the waitt

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

79

80

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Spring 2015

VineClub

The

Tasting Event The FINE Annual Tasting text: R aj iv S in gh al tasting notes: Juh a L ih ton en

Twenty years ago, The Vine Club was founded by the FINE Wine Finn Pekka Nuikki. The legendary January Tasting and Dinner in (and around) Helsinki has been the beginning-of-the-year tradition with some really special rare and fine wines from the world’s top producers for wine aficionados from around the world. Signing off after two decades of consecutive annual tastings, Pekka announced that 2015 would be last of its kind.

It was an early January Helsinki evening – cold and wet. A few blocks from the landmark Helsinki Cathedral, Ritu and I joined a group of 17 in the new offices of FINE – the very inspiring 19th century atelier of the Finnish painter, Albert Edefelt (1856-1905). Twenty seven rare wines were lined up for our pleasure – it was revealed that we were going back to 1863. The treasures of the 19th century were balanced by a young Californian icon. The highlight for us was the Indian independence vintage Cos d’Estournel and Lafleur.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

81

92p 88p

1989 Philipponnat Grand Blanc Magnum

1971 Gaja Sorì Tildìn Barbaresco

Region: Piedmont, Italy Bottle condition: By the neck

Region: Champagne, France

Colour: Pale, tawny

Bottle condition: By the neck

Nose: Open, refined, plums, figs, smoke

Colour: Light, golden yellow

Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, gentle tannins, elegant, ripe cherry fruit, spicy, earthy, leathery

Nose: Ripe, intense, fresh, gently toasty, citrus Palate: Dry, crisp, creamy, broad, mineral, toasty Finish: Long, lingering In a word: Fresh and tasty Tasted: 10 times Decanting time: – Last in glass: 20 minutes Serving: 8° C When to drink: Now-2030 Food pairing: Fried scallops Fake factor: one Inside information: First vintage of Philipponnat Grand Blanc.

Or try this: 1989 Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Brut, Champagne, France.

Final verdict: Philipponnat can really make great wines that are very different to their glorious Clos des Goisses.

88p

Finish: Long, harmonious, settled In a word: Well-matured, classy barbaresco Tasted: 6 times Decanting time: 15 minutes Last in glass: 25 minutes Serving: 17° C When to drink: Now Food pairing: Roasted Guinea Fowl Fake factor: None Inside information: This was the second vintage of Sorì Tildìn. The wine is made from the 8-acre vineyard that is named after the matriarch of the Gaja family, Clotilde ‘Tildìn’ Rey. Or try this: 1971 Gaja Sorì San Lorenzo, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy.

Final verdict: Beautifully aged Barbaresco with elegance and subtleness.

1964 Romanée SaintVivant, Jules Belin

Region: Burgundy, France Bottle condition: Upper shoulder level (3cm from the neck) Colour: Pale, tawny Nose: Evolved, earthy, prunes, leather, cappuccino Palate: Moderately light, round, dried fruits, figs, prunes, spicy Finish: Medium length, nutty, oxidative In a word: Been better Tasted: 5 times Decanting time: 10 minutes Last in glass: 10 minutes Serving: 16° C When to drink: Yesterday Food pairing: Beef Ragôut Fake factor: Below average Inside information: This glorious vineyard comprehends around 9.5 hectares attached to Vosne-Romanée village. It name appeared first time in history books back in 1765. Nowadays, the vineyard is split between ten different owners from which the DRC possesses over half of the vineyard.

Or try this: Any red grand cru Burgundy from 1964 that you can get hold on.

Final Verdict: Even though this bottle had suffered from oxidation, the wine still shows its strength and concentration.

82

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

94p

1949 Richebourg, Jules Belin (Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin)

Region: Burgundy, France Bottle condition: Very well kept, but neck label missing Colour: Pale, tawny Nose: Complex, evolved, ripe, chocolate, earthy Palate: Medium-bodied, intense, gentle firm tannins, vivid, round and ripe fruit, spicy Finish: Long, lingering, silky, concentrated In a word: Intense complexity Tasted: 7 times Decanting time: 15 minutes Last in glass: 20 minutes Serving: 17° C When to drink: Now Food pairing: Brie de Meaux Fake factor: Below average Inside information: An outstanding vintage in Burgundy.

Or try this: Any Richebourg from this vintage.

Final Verdict: A big wine, thanks to a hot year and Richebourg’s grand terroir.

87p

1947 Château Cos d’Estournel (Renversez & Bernard Négociant)

Region: St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France Bottle condition: Bottom neck level Colour: Medium-intense, tile red colour Nose: Well-evolved, rustic, earthy, spicy Palate: Medium-bodied and concentrated, dry, tannic, mineral, robust, dried fruits

1947 Château Lafleur (Van der Meulen)

Region: Pomerol, Bordeaux, France Bottle condition: Label almost missing Colour: Dense, tawny red Nose: Rich, voluptous, layered, ripe black fruits, plums, spices, touch of bell pepper Palate: Full-bodied, rich, spicy, round and subtle tannins, ripe fruit, licorice Finish: Long, lingering, seductive, spicy after initial reluctance In a word: Full monty

Finish: Shortish length, edgy, died in the glass

Tasted: 33 times

In a word: Rustic

Last in glass: 1 hour

Tasted: 10 times Decanting time: 20 minutes Last in glass: 20 minutes Serving: 18° C When to drink: Now Food pairing: Aged Gouda Fake factor: Be cautious Inside information: A hot year that yielded big and jammy reds in Bordeaux.

Or try this: 1947 Montrose, Bordeaux, France.

Final Verdict: This was not the best bottle of this wine that I’ve had.

95p 1955 Château Cheval Blanc Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux, France Bottle condition: Bottom neck level Colour: Medium-intense, tawny red Nose: Multi-layered, intense, blackcurrants, plums, floral, spicy Palate: Medium-bodied, refined, subtle black berries, mineral, smoky, spicy Finish: Long, lingering, harmonious In a word: Classy wine Tasted: 28 times Decanting time: 1.5 hours Last in glass: 1 hour Serving: 18° C When to drink: Now-2025 Food pairing: Grilled steak with haricot verts and a classic red wine sauce Fake factor: Serious Inside information: The season in 1955 started as dry and early spring. It continued dry and warm throughout the summer and finally yielded a great concentrated crop of 42 hl/ha.

Or try this: 1955 Pétrus, Bordeaux, France.

Final Verdict: One of the great Cheval Blancs of the fifties.

FINE Spring 2015

96p

Decanting time: 2 hours Serving: 18° C When to drink: Now Food pairing: For meditation Fake factor: Every second bottle is a fake Inside information: When there is a bottle of Lafleur 1947 around, there appears always discussion about the counterfeits. It is relevant with this wine as the amount of sold bottles exceeds remarkably the amount of production. A very ripe year in Pomerol.

Or try this: 1947 Cheval Blanc, Bordeaux, France.

Final Verdict: This opulent wine is very much like the most Lafleur 1947s from Van der Meulen, I have had. Wonderful!

91p

1929 Château Pavie

Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux, France Bottle condition: Bottom neck level Colour: Medium-intense, tawny red Nose: Beautifully evolved, complex, toasty, dark fruits Palate: Medium-bodied, gentle tannins, silky texture, balanced, toasty Finish: Long, balanced, elegant In a word: Impressive Tasted: 3 times Decanting time: 1 hour Last in glass: 1 hour Serving: 18° C When to drink: Now Food pairing: Fake factor: Be cautious Inside information: An extremely hot and dry year, actually the driest of the century so far. US stock market crash cut the demand of Bordeaux wines and the wines of this spectacular vintage had a good rest in the cellars of Bordeaux before being sold.

Or try this: 1929 Cheval Blanc, Bordeaux, France.

Final verdict: Superbly well-kept wine.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

83

92p

1952 Château Ausone

Region: St-Emilion, Bordeaux, France

89p

1923 Vega-Sicilia Unico

Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain Bottle condition: By the neck Colour: Quite light, tawny, orange hue Nose: Evolved, volatile, leathery, wild, plums and cherries, nutty, spicy, smoky Palate: Medium-bodied, quite acidic, leathery, prunes, spices, nutty Finish: Medium-length, robust, rustic In a word: Horse stable Tasted: 3 times Decanting time: 30 minutes Last in glass: 30 minutes Serving: 18° C When to drink: Now Food pairing: Roasted rack of lamb Fake factor: None Inside information: This time Vega-Sicilia wines were produced mainly for its owners, Herrero family’s, use and for the royals of Spain.

Or try this: 1923 Viña Real Reserva, Rioja, Spain.

Final verdict: Over the top, but still holding tight.

93p

Bottle condition: By the neck Colour: Medium-intense, tawny red Nose: Refined, intense, candied black fruits, blackcurrant, plums, smoky Palate: Medium-bodied, moderate acidity, good concentration, silky tannins, harmonious, ripe black fruit Finish: Long, smooth, refined In a word: Elegant and focused Tasted: 7 times Decanting time: 2 hours Last in glass: 1 hour Serving: 18° C When to drink: Now-2030 Food pairing: Pan-fried Entrecôte Fake factor: Be cautious Inside information: The warm spring and early summer. Hot and dry season until September. Cold and rainy weather during the harvest dashed the hope for the exceptional vintage. Luckily the grapes were highly concentrated and lasted the wet and cold weather. As a result there became long-lasting wines that benefitted from the long bottle maturation.

Or try this: 1952 Cheval Blanc, Bordeaux, France.

Final Verdict: So focused and pure.

1955 Pétrus

Region: Pomerol, Bordeaux, France Bottle condition: By the neck

91p

Nose: Rich, forest floor, black fruits, blackberry, chocolate, spicy

Region: Pauillac, Bordeaux, France

Palate: Medium-bodied, refined wellintegrated tannins, smooth concentrated texture, average acidity, chocolate, spicy

Bottle condition: Bottom neck

Finish: Long, lingering, round

Nose: Broad, fine, evolved, toasty, blackcurrants

In a word: Refined and layered

Palate: Medium-bodied, mouthfilling, vivid, gentle tannins, round, balanced

Decanting time: 2 hours

Finish: Moderately long, full and fine

Last in glass: 1 hour

In a word: Round and refined

Serving: 18° C

Tasted: 2 times

When to drink: Now-2025

Decanting time: 1.5 hours

Food pairing: Lamb stew with root vegetables

Last in glass: 30 minutes

Fake factor: Serious

When to drink: Now

Or try this: 1955 Cheval Blanc, Bordeaux, France.

Final Verdict: One of the best bottles of 1955 Pétrus that I recall tasting.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Colour: Quite intense, tawny red

Tasted: 22 times

Inside information: This vintage is considered to be the second best vintage of the decade after 1953. Unstable weather during the spring turned into to warm and sunny summer that lasted until the harvest.

84

1921 Château LafiteRothschild

Colour: Medium-intense, brick red

Serving: 18° C Food pairing: Beef tenderloin with shitake mushrooms and rosemary-flavoured potatos Fake factor: Serious Inside information: A good vintage that is recalled from extremely hot temperatures that caused challenges for estates which had no cooling systems.

Final Verdict: Great and refined Lafite.

1893 Cos d’Estournel

Region: St-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France Bottle condition: Bottom neck Colour: Medium-intense, brownish Nose: Rich, perfumed, mature, complex, earthy, spicy

1979 Gosset Grand Millésime Brut

88p

Region: Champagne, France Bottle condition: By the neck

Palate: Medium-bodied, silky tannins, ripe black fruits, spicy, earthy, fragrant

Colour: Bright, evolved, golden

Finish: Long, harmonious, seductive

Palate: Dry, nutty, broad, dried fruits, lemon

In a word: Charmer Tasted: 2 times

Finish: Medium-length, firm, onedimensional

Decanting time: 30 min

In a word: Firm but lack of layers

Last in glass: 1 hour

Tasted: 5 times

Serving: 18° C

Decanting time: –

When to drink: Now

Last in glass: 15 minutes Serving:

Food pairing: Sauteed lamb chops with grilled aubergines

Nose: Evolved, apricoty, firm, citrussy

When to drink: Now

Fake factor: Be cautious

Food pairing: Gratinated oysters

Inside information: Remarkably hot and dry vintage started from the beginning of March and lasted until the early harvest that started in mid August. This vintage yielded astonishing wines both in high quantity and in high quality.

Fake factor: None

Final Verdict: Feeling like an immortal wine, it just kept so well after opening.

90p

FINE Spring 2015

96p

Inside information: First time in history a woman, Margaret Thatcher, is chosen to the Prime Minister in the UK. Or try this: 1979 Pommery Cuvée Louise, Champagne, France.

Final Verdict: True to the Gosset non-malo style champagne.

1959 Dom Pérignon

Region: Champagne, France Bottle condition: By the neck Colour: Bright, golden amber Nose: Evolved, nutty, creamy, toasty Palate: Dry, oxidative, ripe apricots, toasty, spicy, waxy, honeyed Finish: Medium-length, nutty, dried apricots

90p

1966 Louis Roederer Brut

Region: Champagne, France Bottle condition: By the neck Colour: Bright, golden yellow Nose: Harmonious, delicately aged, apricots, toasty

In a word: Oxidative

Palate: Dry, moderate acidity, good grip in mousse, round, pure, lemony, dried fruits

Tasted: 27 times

Finish: Long, round, persistent

Decanting time: –

In a word: Focused and pure

Last in glass: 20 minutes

Tasted: 6 times

Serving: 7° C

Decanting time: –

When to drink: Now

Last in glass: 15 minutes

Food pairing: Aged cheddar

Serving: 7° C

Fake factor: Below average

When to drink: Now

Inside information: This was the vintage when Moët & Chandon launched two Dom Pérignons – the regular and the rosé for the first time.

Food pairing: Salmon pastrami

Or try this: 1959 Cristal, Champagne, France.

Final verdict: Had much better bottles of this wine.

Fake factor: None Inside information: Year when Indira Gandhi is elected Prime Minister of India.

Or try this: 1966 Pol Roger Brut, Champagne, France.

Final verdict: Purity and complexity in one harmonious package.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

85

1973 Chablis 1er Cru 86p Fourchaume, Mommessin

92p

Region: Burgundy, France

Region: Bordeaux, France

Bottle condition: By the neck

Bottle condition: By the neck

Colour: Medium-intense, dark yellow

Colour: Medium-intense, golden yellow

Nose: Oxidative, nutty, lemony

Nose: Pure, fresh, waxy, lemony

Palate: Bone-dry, waxy, low acidity, mineral, apples

Palate: Dry, vivid, lemony, honey, buttery

1962 Ygrec

Finish: Moderately short, steely

Finish: Medium-length, mineral, lemony bite with honeyed overtones

In a word: Bones but no flesh

In a word: Refined, complex and seductive

Tasted: 5 times

Tasted: 18 times

Decanting time: –

Decanting time: 10 minutes

Last in glass: 10 minutes

Last in glass: 30 minutes

Serving: 10° C

Serving: 10° C

When to drink: Now

When to drink: Now

Food pairing: Lemon-flavoured grilled white fish

Food pairing: Battered butterfish

Fake factor: None Inside information: Fourchaume vineyard is considered to be one of the best Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis and some has considered that it should be elevated to Grand Cru status.

Or try this: 1973 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria.

Final Verdict: If you have not tasted this wine, you have not missed a thing.

Fake factor: Below average Inside information: A great year in Bordeaux, which was overshadowed by 1961. Summer and autumn were very hot and dry.

Or try this: 1962 Château Haut-Brion Blanc, Bordeaux, France Final Verdict: Once again Château d’Yquem shows that they know how to do long-lasting wines, and they are not all sweet!

1971 Rauenthaler

Rothenberg Riesling 91p Spätlese, Weingut Willibald Gippel

Region: California, USA

Colour: Light, golden yellow

Colour: Deep, purple red colour

Nose: Lean, pure, honeyed, petrol

Nose: Big, intense, jammy, toasty, spicy, cassis, vanilla, violets

Finish: Medium-length, honeyed, mineral, apricots In a word: Light, fruity, mineral Tasted: 5 times Decanting time: 10 minutes Last in glass: 30 minutes Serving: 9° C When to drink: Now Food pairing: Grilled halloumi Fake factor: None Inside information: A great vintage in Rheingau. This was also the year when the German new Wine Law was launched after being prepared for twenty years.

Or try this: Any German riesling from this fabulous vintage.

Final Verdict: Classic mature riesling.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

2004 Poker Face Sine Qua Non

Region: Rheingau, Germany Bottle condition:

Palate: Off-dry, vivid acidity, light-bodied, lovely intensity, honey, apricots

86

94p

Bottle condition: By the neck

Palate: Full-bodied, big, chunky, fleshy, spicy, loads of ripe black fruit, vanilla Finish: Long, rich and tasty with warming finish In a word: Gentle blockbuster Tasted: 5 times Decanting time: 8 hours Last in glass: 3 hours Serving: 18° C When to drink: 2025-2050 Food pairing: Grilled T-bone steak Fake factor: None Inside information: Parker 100-point wine is made of a blend containing 96% Syrah, 2.5% Mourvedre and 1.5% Viognier.

Or try this: 2008 Penfolds Grange, Australia.

Final Verdict: Beside being a big wine, it is so harmonious and refined

2003 Côte-Rôtie La Turque

93p

1990 Shafer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Region: Rhône, France

Region: Napa Valley, California, USA

Bottle condition: By the neck

Bottle condition: By the neck

Colour: Deep, dark, purple red colour

Colour: Deep, ruby red colour

Nose: Pronounced, toasty, spicy, intense, ripe black fruits, vanilla

Nose: Refined, gently spicy, ripe blackcurrants, cedar

Palate: Full-bodied, vivid, firm tannins, rich ripe black fruit, well-integrated, spicy

Palate: Medium-bodied, vivid, smooth, ripe blackcurrants, fruity, supple tannins

Finish: Long, balanced, refined finish

Finish: Moderately long, harmonious, velvety

In a word: Big, but elegant wine

In a word: Round and settled

Tasted: 7 times

Tasted: 5 times

Decanting time: 5 hours

Decanting time: 4 hours

Last in glass: 3 hours

Last in glass: 2 hours

Serving: 18° C

Serving: 18° C

When to drink: 2025-2040

When to drink: Now-2025

Food pairing: Grilled venison with baked beetroots

Food pairing: Fried beef sirloin with cafe de paris butter

Fake factor: None

Fake factor: None

Inside information: Parker 100-point wine.

The yields were over 60 percent lower than in average.

Inside information: Good vintage. The crop was reduced due to the spring rains, but the dry, long and warm summer made the vintage.

Or try this: 2003 E. Guigal La Landonne, Rhône, France Final Verdict: As colourful as the label on the bottle!

92p

1997 La Tâche

Region: Burgundy, France Bottle condition: By the neck Colour: Medium-intense, ruby red Nose: Closed, spicy, violets, ripe red fruits, leather Palate: Medium-bodied, lean, acidic, quite tannic, perfumey, gently spicy Finish: Medium-length, firm, tight In a word: Sleeping beauty Tasted: 7 times Decanting time: 3 hours Last in glass: 2 hours Serving: 17° C When to drink: 2020-2025 Food pairing: Roasted pigeon with thyme and risotto

Or try this: 1990 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, California, USA Final Verdict: Generously aged Napa Cab.

Commendador Port, 94p 1863 Feuerheerd Bros & Co Region: Douro, Portugal Bottle condition: By the neck Colour: Light, tawny red to amber Nose: Pronounced nutty, sweet spices, licorice, dried fruits, prunes,figs Palate: Full-bodied, sweet, round, dried fruits, apricots, figs, dates, spices Finish: Long, smooth, nutty, intense In a word: Rich and round Tasted: 5 times Decanting time: 30 minutes Last in glass: 2 hours Serving: 18° C When to drink: Now-2030 Food pairing: Creamy Stilton

Fake factor: Be cautious

Fake factor: None

Inside information: A rollercoaster vintage that had a good ending but extremely low yields. The production was 15,266 bottles.

Inside information: This port was given to King George VI by the President of France, Albert Lebrun, during his visit in France in July 1938 at the Elysée.

Or try this: 1997 Gaja Sorì San Lorenzo, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy Final verdict: Had much better bottles of this wine.

FINE Spring 2015

93p

Or try this: 1863 Niepoort Vintage Port, Portugal Final Verdict: Adorable nectar.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

87

Text: Rajiv Singhal

88

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Photos: Shivam Bhati

FINE WINTER 2015

I

n the Spring of 2012, FINE Wine & Champagne India released its list of Best Indian Wines – a pioneering effort in which leading wine professionals from Europe and India were invited to participate in a grand

“blind” tasting to judge and objectively assess the quality of wines that had been shared by major wineries in India – to set the benchmark for Indian wines.

As they “endured” the marathon tasting in very picturesque settings in Lutyens Delhi, the FINE panel were disappointed that so few Indian wines could hold up to scrutiny against an international yardstick and were unanimous that the wines needed more time – to allow the good quality winemaking to translate into good wine. But, they strongly recommended that FINE watch this space and monitor the evolution of the wines.

“The Best Indian Sparkling Wine 2015” is the continuation of this pioneering effort

by FINE.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

89

THE CELEBRATION POP Indians love to celebrate – some believe that Indians just need an excuse to celebrate. And a popping cork became synonymous with celebration in India.

This perhaps explains why Shamrao Chougule, the founder of Chateau Indage and father of wine in modern India, focussed his attention in the early eighties on developing a sparkling wine in the Sahyadri Valley on the Deccan Plateau. Champagne Piper Heidsieck was persuaded to offer technical support for "Omar Khayyam", a traditional method sparkling wine that was released in London – much to the astonishment of

visionary, Kanwal Grover, who zeroed in

conditions under which his 100%

on the Nandi Hills outside Bangalore to

export oriented winery was licensed were

make wines with the Technical Director of

relaxed. Indage put the much-talked-

Champagne Mumm, equity participation

about sparkling wine on Indian shelves

of Champagne Veuve Clicquot, under

as "Marquise de Pompadour" and this

the supervision of the flying winemaker

ubiquitous label bore witness to the

Michel Rolland. Inspite of this deep-rooted

historic events that celebrated the journey

engagement with Champagne, Grover

of India as a global power. In line with its

Vineyard did not venture into sparkling

strategy to crowd out competition, Indage

territory.

launched several variants of sparkling wine

Chougule's perseverance in lobbying

– "Ivy" and "Tiger Hill" (both traditional

Another contemporary of Shamrao

a constitutionally-averse-to-alcohol

method), "Joie" (Charmat method) and

Chougule was the equally enterprising

Government of India paid off and the

the special magnums of "Grande Cuvée de

wine critics (many of whom still have very fond memories of this cuvée).

Around the same time, Madhavrao More led a co-operative of 600 stakeholders from Pimpligaon village to launch "Pimpane" – a-well-before-its-time traditional method sparkling wine that got the French worried enough to raise non-tariff barriers from the European Union to stop the juggernaut.

The Evolution of Indian Sparkling Wines

90

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE WINTER 2015

"Casablanca" at the end of 2014. Sula veteran, Pradeep Pachpatil, launched Soma Vineyards in 2015 that offers a range that mirrors his neighbour and former employer – Brut, Brut Rosé and Seco.

In a very significant development, the luxury giant, Moët Hennessy, chose the terroir of Indian wine country in Nashik to launch the Brut and Brut Rosé labels of Chandon in India in 2013 following their success in Argentina, California, Brazil and Australia.

The landscape of Indian sparkling wine is getting busy.

Millennium" that were released to welcome the new millennium – before liquidation proceedings were filed against the market leader by institutional lenders in 2008.

In the late nineties, Stanford alumni Rajeev Samant returned from the Silicon Valley to set up Sula Vineyards with the consulting Californian winemaker, Kerry Dampskey, on his modest family farm in Nashik. As Sula took pole position on the wine market in India from Indage, their portfolio and volume has grown exponentially and they have offered wines that appeal to all market segments. With three variants – Brut, Brut Rosé and Seco – Sula is India's largest sparkling wine producer.

"Zampa Soirée Brut Rosé". The IndoItalian collaboration, Fratelli, between the three sets of brothers – Secci, Sekhri and Mohite-Patil – launched a 100% Chenin zero dosage "Gran Cuvée Brut" in 2013. The Gurnani family owned York released a 100% Chenin Blanc de Blancs in 2014. Ashwin Rodrigues' Good Drop Wine Cellars launched the Prosecco style

INCLUSIVE AND COMPREHENSIVE The FINE team mapped the universe of Indian sparkling wine producers. As Publisher of FINE Wine & Champagne India, I sent out invitations to all the wineries to participate in this tasting with their entire range of sparkling wines.

Fratelli, Grover Zampa and York grabbed

Amongst new entrants, Prahlad Khandagle terminated (maybe even reneged on) his supplier contract to establish Vinsura, and launched a 100% Chenin sparkling wine in 2008. Industry honchos, Ravi Jain and Deepak Roy, set up Zampa that launched "Zampagne" (which had to be re-launched as "Zampa Soirée Brut" under objection from Comite Champagne) in 2010 and

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

91

the opportunity (with both hands) to have the quality of their wines assessed in an independent and objective manner, and I am grateful that they sent their samples to us in Delhi. Soma Vineyards arranged the samples from Nashik by special messenger.

FINE purchased the bottles of Chandon and Casablanca that did not respond to my invitation, and of Sula which was selectively reluctant to offer samples for tasting. In all, seven wineries were represented in these tastings by thirteen labels.

TWO CONTINENTS FINE's Finnish editors could not travel as scheduled to India, so two tastings were conducted – one in Helsinki and one in New Delhi – with the same labels. Both tastings were organised and executed as blind. The ground rules for scoring were established according to the FINE Magazines' international standards on the 100-point scale. The scores of FINE’s editors were counted in the final ranking and only those wines which scored more than 79 points were considered for publication.

I shared the concept for the New Delhi tasting with Ravindra Kumar, General

Manager – Corporate Food & Beverage at The LaLiT, who has always supported our wine activities (howsoever ambitious they may have been) and pulled them off with élan to take The LaLiT wine program to a level that is the envy of its peers. Almost immediately, he got the wine team led by Corporate Sommelier Charles Donnadieu to join in, and we were ready to roll.

The tasting table replete with seemingly endless rows of tagged flutes was set up at Baluchi, the pan India destination at The LaLiT New Delhi – against the backdrop of the first walk-in glass capsule wine cellar in a luxury hotel. Wine experts with qualifications from international institutes and a Head Sommelier visiting from the

Handling this selected range of samples gave

Maldives found their seats at the table.

Sula Brut Rosé – eeeks! Credit where due,

PREPARING THE BATTLEGROUND! The bottles were carefully masked in foil and "badged" with a number that would become their identity for the duration of the tasting. Any potential visual identifiers on the bottles were stripped off – it was imperative that any guesses that could bias scores were avoided! Personalised scoring Ravindra Kumar

92

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

sheets were prepared for the panel with the scoring scheme.

us some anxious moments. Regulations by the Indian authorities almost tripped our attempt to ship one set of samples to Helsinki. Even with our international trading background, we could not handle the iterative documentation (certificates, declarations and technical sheets).

However, our neighbourhood courier was better prepared.

And some frightful moments. The Sula sparklings were purchased from a vend in South Delhi. As the foil was taken off, a layer of dark dusty "mould" was sitting just under the cork of the Sula Brut and Sula swung into action. The bottles were replaced – except that this time the Brut had a powder flaking off the Diamante cork!! The leadership team communicated their concern and informed us that while the highest standards are followed, they would investigate before they share more.

Another bottle was arranged just in time for the tasting, thankfully without any unwelcome companions. (And no, we have not heard back from the company – yet).

been (the two sets of samples tasted were received through different channels at different times), similar scores show more

FINE WINTER 2015

its infancy. Unintended as it may have

consistency through different batches of the same wine. Consistency could be a reason for concern – Zampa Soireé Brut Rosé, the Best Indian Sparkling Wine of 2012, just about made it to the 2015 list.

In practising some degree of parcel-byparcel vinification, Indian winemakers are bringing out the terroir in some wines.

The house styles were identifiable – Soma Vineyards had played on caramelisation.

Casablanca Brut was tracked down to a

an area of concern that the Indian wine

retail chain in South Mumbai – it was

industry will need to address as it evolves.

purchased and flown into New Delhi. But sadly, the wine had been subject to intense torture (we should have been warned by the battered bottle) and our best efforts had been rendered futile – the wine was declared by the panel as faulty.

Wine consumers often lament the storage conditions in the distribution chain for

THE VERDICT The mood was set with the first "sparkling" presented to the panel – Champagne Taittinger Brut Reserve – for the panel

Good wine-making practices being followed are reflected in the best wines – they were clean, fresh, rich, harmonious and balanced (as opposed to dusty, dull and coarse at the other end of the spectrum).

No stand-out wine, though. Most of the wines scored poorly, with none getting

members to sharpen their skills and

anything higher than 86p. A few wines

benchmark the FINE score.

that scored marginally lower than the publication cut-off of 80p were included

The panel were surprised to see such a

in the list to commend effort.

significant sparkling wine offer (mostly

wine in India because they often end up

elaborated in the traditional method) in

The wines are in evolution… till the next

paying for tainted wines. This is surely

a wine country that was, at best, still in

FINE evaluation!

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

93

86p

Chandon Brut Rosé

Colour: Medium intense, super salmon rosé Nose: Refined, round, toasty, red fruits Palate: Dry, fresh, good mousse, ripe red fruits, strawberries, floral Finish: Moderate length, balanced, elegant In

a nutshell:

When

to drink:

Refined and fresh Now-2016

Food Pairing: Chicken Tikka

83p

Chandon Brut

83p

Zampa Soirée Brut

Colour: Medium light, straw yellow

Colour: Pale, green-yellow Nose: Fresh, herbaceous, wine gums, onions

Nose: Pronounced, rich, smoky, melted butter

Palate: Off-dry, intense, fruity, smoky

Palate: Dry, intense, rich, concentrated, toasty, buttery, tropical fruits Finish: Moderately long, broad, fruity, robust In

a nutshell:

When

to drink:

Rich and masculine Now-2016

Food Pairing: Golden Fried Prawns

94

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Finish: Medium-length, intense, fresh In

a nutshell:

When

to drink:

Harmonious Now

Food Pairing: Fish Amritsari

80p

Sula Brut Rosé

Colour: Pale, peachy rose

Colour: Light, green-yellow

Nose: Fresh, candied, red fruits like strawberries Palate: Off-dry, light, mellow, smoky

Nose: Fresh, open, refined, apples Palate: Dry, intense, crisp, good texture

In

a

When

Finish: Short, light, stalky

Finish: Medium-length, neutral nutshell: Pleasant to drink:

In

a nutshell:

When

Now-2016

Fratelli Gran Cuvée Brut

Colour: Pale, steely

Nose: Closed, rubbery, wine gums

Nose: Fresh, waxy, resin, canned fruits, firecrackers Palate: Medium-sweet, caramelised, flat

Palate: Very dry, medium acidity, light, citrusy

When

Finish: Moderately short, lemony nutshell: Light and harmless to drink:

Finish: Short, sugary, balanced In

Now

Finish: Moderately short, balanced In

a nutshell:

When

to drink:

Cute Now

to drink:

Neutral Now

Food Pairing: Digestif

Also Tasted

Zampa Brut Rosé

Palate: Off-dry, delicate, minerally

a nutshell:

When

Food Pairing: Aperitif

Colour: Medium light, pale rose Nose: Ripe red fruit, smoky, floral

Now

Soma Vineyards Sec-Taie

Colour: Pale, green- yellow

a

to drink:

Flirty

Food Pairing: Tandoori Pomfret

Food Pairing: Paneer Pakodas

In

FINE WINTER 2015

York Sparkling Cuvée Brut

81p

Casablanca Vino Spumante Soma Vineyards Brut Cuveé Sparkling Wine Soma Vineyards Rose Sparkling Wine Sula Brut Sparkling Wine Sula Seco

Food Pairing: Biryani

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

95

96-97 Lalit folour DS 22 December 2020 10:09:45

96-97 Lalit folour DS 22 December 2020 10:09:45

Tale of Two Ancient Beverages text: Ritu & Rajiv Singhal

98

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2019

W

ine and Tea, traditional

beverages that have been an intrinsic part of our daily lives for time immemorial, are ancient – they date back many millenniums.

Historians have endorsed the birth of wine making to almost 8,000 years ago and traced it to the village of Gadachrili Gora in modern day Georgia – which is also known as “the cradle of wine”. According to a Chinese legend, tea originated in China around 4700 years ago when the Emperor Shen Nong chanced upon the infusion of wild tea leaves in boiling water.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

99

A Unique Concept The idea of drawing parallels between two seemingly unconnected beverages that had originated in two different continents was conceptualised and conceived by Rajiv Singhal.

Against the very high standards of the visionary South-East Asia Director of the French Food and Wine Marketing and Promotion Agency, Jean-Francois Balusseau, it passed muster and a spot was reserved for a “Wine & Tea” session in the pioneering French wine promotional activity programme that Group Ritu launched in India in the late nineties on behalf of the French Ministry of Agriculture and other clients. The belief was that, “in a nascent and emerging market for wine in India, it was important to relate the tenets of wine appreciation to a drink that is so deeply ingrained in the Indian culture so that the consumer could unravel the typicity of wine better.”

In January 2005, the first-ever Wine and Tea Appreciation

100

held in Delhi and Kolkata over the next few years – and they attracted a lot of attention in the world of wine and the world of tea. Wine specialists, Ch’ng Poh Tiong, Franck Thomas and Daniele Raulet Reynaud interacted with their Tea counterparts, Sanjay Kapur, Catherine Lashko and Vikram Mittal to bring out the complementarities and the similarities between wine and tea and to identify characteristic notes – floral, fruity, grassy, woody, tannic, spicy – usually associated with wine, in the tea.

Hungarian Touch Almost a decade later, this idea was revived in conversation with our dear friends, Annamari Somogyi and her husband, the Ambassador of Hungary to India H.E. Gyula Pethő. Annamari is a dedicated tea connoisseur and was so excited to discover the connection that had been drawn out between tea and wine in formal ‘tasting’ sessions that she made an exceptional exception to allow Rajiv (as the first-ever male presenter) to

session was launched at the Leela Kempinski Mumbai – a

present to her exclusive T-Club.

unique and never-done-before activity around wine in India,

On Hungarian territory, the Residence of the Ambassador of

maybe even the world! Several sessions on wine and tea were

Hungary to India in Diplomatic Enclave in New Delhi, Rajiv

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2019

presented Hungarian wines as Annamari did Indian teas. The audience was captivated as they both explained the connect between these two beverages. The presentation was hugely appreciated, and it seems that Annamari was inundated with requests for an encore by the members and guests.

It was decided that at a sit-down dinner, Hungarian wine and Indian tea to match would be paired with Hungarian food. The wine hosts, the FINE India team represented by yours truly, and the tea hosts, Aap ki Pasand Master Tea Taster Sanjay Kapur and Naina, and our Hungarian hosts had the "gruelling" task of narrowing down the choices of the wine, the tea and the food at a tasting dinner – we all survived.

The Grand Pairing When Annamari and Gyula play host at the Residence only the best is on the table. For the grand evening, the dinner table was Photo: CIVC

immaculately set for the 24 guests, mostly Heads of Mission and their spouses, with finest Hungarian tableware from the national treasures of Herend, fine cut glassware, and abundant pink roses in large brandy snifters. The menu carrying the Hungarian crest was complemented by a tasting place mat that was designed by Naina so that the guests could keep track of the various wines and teas being served – and avoid any confusion – through the four course dinner.

Our hosts welcomed the guests and introduced them to the unique nature of the dinner. The welcome drink was a glass of Hungary’s finest sparkling wine Hungaria Grand Cuvee Brut which was matched with an Iced Tea Julep and served with Sajtos Pogácsa (Hungarian cheese puffs). The sparkling wine and iced tea were so similar to each other – the pale-yellow colour with refreshing citrusy and liquorice flavours – and set the tone for the evening.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

101

As we sat down, a presentation by Ritu detailed the symphony

the Chardonnay Tea could match this wine – yes, a new tea

of wine with tea – Sanjay and Rajiv chipped in. The Gunzer

with strands of Chardonnay that Sanjay identified when he

Tamas Rose 2014 from Villany and Rose Gold Tea – rose petals

was inspired by the wines that we introduced him to during

in black tea – were served with the first course – Avocado Pastry

tastings in the early years of the new millennium.

Roll with Hungarian "Flag" (tomato, mozzarella and green

The third course paired the Kovacs Nimrod Monopole

capsicum) for the vegetarians, and salmon flower and salamiolive stick for the non-vegetarians. Freshness, fruitiness and rose all round.

Rhapsody 2014 with Royal Masala Chai and Letcho Hungarian Ratatouille and Hortobágyi Palacsinta Hungarian Pancakes stuffed with Paprika Chicken served with rice. The famous

Kolonics Juhfark 2013 from the Somloi region was served next,

Bikaver – “bull's blood” – wine is a blend of Kekfrankos, Pinot

paired with Lady Grey Tea with Linalool and the choice of Feta

Noir, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet from the Eger region. Gyula

Spinach Roll or Grilled Salmon with a side of Sweet Potato and

shared the legend and origin of bull's blood, “When the town

Carrots. The Hungarian indigenous varietal Juhfark is also

of Eger in the wine making region of the north-eastern part of

known as “Ewes Tail” because the grape bunches resemble a

Hungary was sieged by a large army of the Turks in the 16th

tail! A dash of Linalool was added to Earl Grey Tea to match

Century, the Turkish soldiers were drinking the local dark red

the wine’s fruitiness and nuttiness. Sanjay also thought that

wine saying it is actually not a wine but bull’s blood, giving

Photo: Embassy of Hungary, New Delhi

102

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Winter 2019 Sanjay and Naina Kapur

Rajiv & Ritu Singhal

H.E. Gyula Pethő and Annamari Somogyi

them the strength to fight.” The rich tannins and spiciness of

Hungary, the perfect vines were nurtured for the perfect

the Bikaver were well complemented by the tea – a blend of

glass while in India, perfect bushes gave the perfect cuppa.

the strong Assam black tea, spices and milk the woody note of

Guests were curious as to why this unconventional fusion was

which is drawn from the Camellia assamica bush.

attempted – to create a new channel of thinking that could help

A meal can not be complete on Hungarian territory without

wine and tea lovers understand both beverages better through

Tokaji wine – the nectar of gods and wine of kings. Gyula had

what is known about the other.

drawn the Pendits Aszu 6 Puttonyos Tokaj 2013 from his cellars and this was paired with a Darjeeling Grand Cru Muscatel Tea

Similarities

that had a sweet spicy character. Both were divine with the

The key link between the two beverages can be attributed to

Somlo Sponge Cake.

Through the evening, we were able to showcase that in

the “Terroir” – the phenomenon of identifying, tracing and tying the origins of an exceptional produce to a specific climate,

Photo: Embassy of Hungary, New Delhi FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

103

weather, altitude, soil, sweat (and blood) of the grower and an

sensory evaluation that leads to a better appreciation and

all-encompassing unique environment. So, whether it be the

understanding. Some countries around the world have

great wines of Champagne, Tokay, Napa Valley; or the special

managed to keep alive the traditional ceremonies that showcase

teas of Assam, Darjeeling or Nilgiri – when we celebrate these

the very elaborate tasting rituals around both tea and wine.

wines and teas, we pay homage to their “terroirs”.

Both are entirely natural – when we talk about tea and wine we

The similarities between the two are striking – both having

are talking about purist and high quality. Some characteristic

been the preferred drink of the kings.

notes in any top quality wine or tea

Both are known for their medicinal

should not be mistaken for an added

properties, and their consumption

essence. Flavonoids or polyphenols are

gained momentum as water was found to be undrinkable. Both are culturally rich, just as tea is a way of life in India, in

104

...we pay homage to their “terroirs”

the taste-givers. For instance, when you trace litchis in Alsace Gewurztraminer, or fresh grass in Bourgogne Chablis, or

the old world wine countries, most people grow up with wine!

woody tones in Assam tea, it’s a manifestation of the terroir.

Akin to wine, the appreciation of tea is also about an indulgence

Geographical Indications encompass both beverages.

of the senses. While taste is the most prominent of the analytical

Champagne, Tokaj and Port are a few examples of wine

senses, most aficionados are captivated by the aroma. Master

appellations; Assam, Darjeeling and Nilgiri are examples of

Tea Tasters and Master Wine Tasters establish a benchmark

tea that were christened in the place they were born – and

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

is based on Fermentation – in the case of some wines like

defines the various grades for both wine and tea and is based on

Champagne, double fermentation is deployed.

the region, varietal, style of processing, vintage, sweetness etc.

Grape vines and tea bushes are grown in specially demarcated areas and governed by stringent rules. Specific micro-climates interplay with the growing conditions and the labour of love of the workers to yield the celebrated produce. Thousands of

A read of the literature reveals that the drinking of both wine and tea finds favour with the doctors – antioxidants like catechins and resveratrol that are found in tea and wine lend health benefits.

years of experience have gone into the attempt to perfect the

Both wine and tea offer the elegance that appeal not just

art of growing tea leaves in India and maintaining vineyards

to our senses, but to our love for ritual and tradition. They

in Europe. Both tea growers and vignerons are increasingly exploring the opportunities in organic and bio-dynamic produce.

Tea leaves are plucked in the gardens and immediately transported to processing centres, where processing is a mix

FINE Winter 2019

now fiercely protected. A well-structured classification system

enhance social value by bringing people of all ages together.

The similarities – imagined and real – between wines and tea rest on interpretation.

So, when you take a sip and swirl your favourite drink to take

of Oxidation and Fermentation. Grapes are harvested from the

in the flavours and the aromas... a well-aged Chardonnay is

vine and pressed within the shortest time. The juice is moved

as much a feast for the senses as a pure bred Darjeeling whose

to the wineries in controlled conditions where the processing

full-bodied second flush can be enchantingly aromatic. >

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

105

Colgin’s Wines with India’s Food

Exclusive

text: Ritu & Rajiv Singhal

106

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Spring 2017

“The wine knowledge of the Indian wine-lover is pretty high. Their deep-rooted culture of appreciation is a

great bellwether for the future. The world view of Indian cuisine as a ‘curry’ is changing – it is so diverse – the flavours and textures in some dishes find natural affinity to a wide array of wines.”

Paul Roberts MS set the tone for an

The very elegant, structured and “suave”

Colgin and Indian Accent, chef Manish

masala quail stuffed Kashmiri Gucchi

exclusive

of

sensory

delights

from

Mehrotra’s award winning restaurant at

The Manor, New Delhi for a handful of wine-lovers who had been invited to join

the hosts. In the courtyard of The Manor on a starry winter evening mild by Delhi

standards, we toasted with the very toasty

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 1999 from magnum – a rare pick from the Sawhney

cellars. As we took our seats at a very

regal table in the private dining room at The Manor, the amuse bouche of blue

cheese naan and corn shorba announced the special six-course menu that was to

accompany the visiting dignitaries – the Colgin wines!

Tychson Hill 2010 was served with the

(morels) with parmesan crisps. For the

vegetarians, the stuffing was makhana (fox nut). 2010 was a great vintage in the Napa

Valley – this “young” wine was in no hurry to be drunk! Heavy on earthy aromas and fruity flavours, the red-fruited wine accentuated the flavours of the Kashmiri

delicacy for a long and harmonious finish.

The more complex and most “layered” Cariad 2001 (a Parker 99 pointer) was

next with baked potato and mutton chilla

(pancake) with bone marrow curry. For the vegetarians, soya keema substituted mutton. A lingering merlot flavour was

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

107

identified in the wine, which showed dark fruit,

was the coolest of the vintages. The 2006 had an

balanced the spices rather well, even as Ann

was still showing very young (in perspective).

was earthy and broader on the palate. The wine was quick to warn that these were the aromatic spices, not chilli!

Joe rose to present the IX Estate or Number

Nine wines – a vertical of 2006, 2010 and 2012.

It seems that Parker

tired of handing out perfect scores to the

2006 and 2010 (both

100), and left 2012 with 99! Intense dark fruits and a lot of structure the

wine

highlight that

predominantly

is

Paul described the finish, “it begins to fan out like the tail of a peacock – each and every element of the wine becomes vibrant and shows up”.

A quick round of the room suggested that “the 2012 was tight and

The Indian wine-lovers’ appreciation is a great bellwether for the future

closed, the 2006 was

really good but the 2010 won on balance with

the

long

finish”.

opening-up

flavours with The

textures of the food and the wine were quite similar, and the

Cabernet Sauvignon. Paul explained further, “we

2010 stood out. Personally, the 2006 with the

vintages to show the evolution and ageing of the

A very aesthetically presented duck khurchan

wanted to present a comparative across three

butter chicken kulcha was greatly enjoyed.

wines, and more importantly how they showed

(aubergine bharta for the vegetarians) cornetto,

up in the first ten years of their life”.

herb malai (cream) with chilli chutney was

Elaborate mains were laid out – braised lamb

served with the very “Côte-Rôtie-like” IX Estate

millet risotto type preparation) with parmesan,

complex aromas. An agreeable pairing, if the

raita (yogurt) with signature Indian Accent rotis

A dessert platter warm doda burfi (fudge) treacle

shanks in mulberry juice, bajra kichadi (pearl

Syrah 2009 which showed sumptuous fruits and

black dairy dal (lentil), pomegranate and avocado

chutney was spared!

(breads) which were stuffed with apple wood smoked bacon, chili hoisin duck, wild mushroom

with truffle oil and even butter chicken with cheddar cheese!

108

initial rush of fruit as the spiciness took over and

tart with coconut and gur (jaggery) ice-cream –

rounded up this extra-ordinary feast. We were

hosted in the mecca of transformed innovative Indian cuisine – where the masters play with

The 2012 was a very juicy red with elements

international ingredients and still retain the

vintages on show. The 2010 showed structure

highly rated international wines were in good

of spice and probably the warmest of the three

Indian taste. All at the table concurred that

and underlying character with a hint of spice and

company with Indian food!

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

FINE Spring 2017

92p

Colgin IX Estate 2012 Colour: Medium ruby red

Nose: Floral and earthy, dark cherries and crushed rose petals Palate: Heavy, voluminous, generous, harmonious, dark fruit, nuances of oak, game and minerality Finish: Not long, still developing In a nutshell: Weighed by its elements Buy or not: Yes, if you can still find this tiny release

95p

Colgin IX Estate 2006 Colour: Deep, dark ruby

Nose: Opulent, charming, ripe black fruits, gently spicy, cedary, violets Palate: Full-bodied, round tannins, satiny texture, multilayered, dark chocolate, blackberries, gentle toastiness Finish: Focused, pure and lingering

Tasted: 2 times

In a nutshell: Pure charmer

Decanting time: Serve straight from bottle

Tasted: 4 times

Glass time: 1 hour

Decanting time: 8 hours

When to drink: Now to 2027

Glass time: 3 hours

Food pairing: Duck Khurchan Cornetto

When to drink: 2025–2035

Fake factor: None

Food Pairing: Grilled Duck with Creamy Truffle Risotto

Inside information: A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. The flavours beam through the fruit to give the wine a perfect sense of place The vineyards on Pritchard Hill overlook Lake Hennessey.

Or try this: Château Latour 2012 Final verdict: Reflection of its terroir

95p

Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot.

Produced only 1,500 cases.

Final Verdict: An epitome of Colgin Cellars

Colgin IX Estate 2010 Colour: Deep, purple

Nose: Rich, spicy, blueberries, licorice, black truffles, complex

94p

Colgin Tychson Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Colour: Deep, purple

Nose: Rich, complex, cassis, toasty, violets

Palate: Full-bodied, refined, concentrated, polished tannins, dark chocolate, ripe brambles

Palate: Full-bodied, intense, sweet tannins, rich in black fruit, cedar, spices

Finish: Concentrated, broad, long-lasting

Finish: Pure and powerful

In a nutshell: Full of promise

In a nutshell: A noble wine

Tasted: 2 times

Tasted: 4 times

Decanting time: 12 hours

Decanting time: 12 hours

Glass time: 6 hours

Glass time: 3 hours

When to drink: 2030–2040

When to drink: 2025–2035

Food pairing: Grilled Sirloin with Parmesan Risotto

Food Pairing: Tournedos Rossini

Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot.

Final verdict: An uncut diamond

Fake factor: None Inside information: The blend is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.

Final Verdict: Grand Napa aristocrat

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

109

93p

Colgin Cariad 2001 Colour: Deep, ruby red

Nose: Complex, layered, smoke, cedar, slate, black and red fruits Palate: Full-bodied, spicy, supple, perfumed, smoky wood, ripe brambles, espresso Finish: Long, round and spicy In a nutshell: Broad and flavourful Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 2 hours When to drink: Now–2022 Food Pairing: Beef Wellington

Colour: Deep, purple Nose: Intense, rich, smoky, seductive, toasty, blueberries, perfumed, violets, white pepper Palate: Full-bodied, supple tannins, vivid fruit, lively acidity, floral, spicy, toasty Finish: Long, lingering and seductive In a nutshell: A benchmark syrah Tasted: 2 times Decanting time: 4 hours Glass time: 3 hours When to drink: 2020–2030 Food Pairing: Braised Deer Fillet with Roasted Beetroots and Herbs Fake factor: None

Inside information: The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot.

Inside information: Total production was 400 cases. Aged 19 months in barrels.

94p

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 1999

Colour: Deep golden yellow

Nose: A burst of flavours. Extremely fresh.

Citrus, a bit tight.

Palate: Finely balanced with ripe apples and rich apricots Finish: Not long, still developing In a nutshell: Power that will emerge even stronger Buy or not: Don’t miss it, specially in magnum When to drink: Now till you can resist Food Pairing: Blue Cheese Naan Fake factor: None Inside information: A blend of 63% Pinot Noir and 37% Chardonnay. Récemment Dégorgé or recently disgorged was created in 1961 to give champagne lovers a taste of very long ageing on lees, almost three times the appellation requirement.

Or try this: Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1999 Final Verdict: Madame Bollinger’s vision for James Bond 007

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Colgin IX Estate Syrah 2009

Fake factor: None

Final Verdict: Aged with grace

110

94p

Final Verdict: The best new world syrah that challenges the great Hermitages and Côte-Rôties.

111 glass2sand colour full page 2020 FINAL 30 December 2020 17:26:44

112

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 4

Text: Rajiv Singhal

C

aviar is derived from the Persian word, khav-yar, which means “cake of strength” – the Persians believed it had medicinal powers. Aristotle, the Greek scholar, described caviar as a delicacy in the 4th Century B.C. even before Oysters, before Champagne, before Truffles could join this league. In Great Britain, the sturgeon was reserved as the “Royal Fish”. But, it was the Tsars of Russia who elevated caviar into an uber luxury space.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

113

C

aviar is revered by the high heeled elite Indian, but perhaps not that well understood. The FINE Caviar Experience was conceptualised by us with the Reunion Islands based Lux’en Bouche, who distribute the world’s finest gastronomy products that are of the highest quality and integrity. General Manager, Sonia Baeriswyl and her husband Steve, draw down their knowledge reserves to help clients in the Indian Ocean rim discover

Gurgaon, was a natural choice. Intensive discussions with Chef Manish Sharma around what was going to be a unique and firstever-in-India pairing of caviar and Champagne, set the tone for the evening. Impressed by the chef ’s culinary prowess, the Baeriswyl’s readily handed over their booty to his capable hands.

these precious metallic grey pearls that give them their family name.

Balik smoked salmon were sent to Chef Manish as a temperature controlled delivery, with the challenge to highlight caviar through the meal. He finalised a five course menu with iterative fine tuning, and adaptation to Sonia’s French touch. A stunning table was set

This was going to be a first for India, and the expansive water body dotted luxury oasis in the Millenium City, The Oberoi 114

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

Three types of Caviar – Baeri, Oscietra and Prunier Malossol – and

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 4 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

115

with decadent candles and fine chinaware for this special treat at the private dining area of the much awarded 361° restaurant.

The legendary expressway traffic played up that evening, but that did not deter any of our 14 privileged guests that included royals, designers, gourmets and connoisseurs. The dampened spirits, if any, were addressed with a refreshing flute of the Brut Premier from cellars of Louis Roederer. As I introduced the evening to our

116

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

guests, a trolley was wheeled in, under the veil of dry ice vapour.

Seated majestically on a bed of ice in a footed bowl was the first 125gm tin of Caviar – the Qiando Baeri, surrounded by gold spoons (the expensive alternate to mother of pearl).

Steve donned white gloves, and surely yet gently, knifed open the metal tin to reveal the delicate, shimmering, dark grey pearls.

Our host, David Mathews, shared the first glimpse of the perfectly

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 4

Baeri Obtained from Acipenser Baerii sturgeon, extensively farmed in the Dordogne in Bordeaux. It appears very dark in the box, almost black. Subtle. It has a rather large grain that separates easily and when held up against light, it is shiny. A little bit salty with a delicate slightly woody flavor and an exceptionally rich taste.

No metallic aftertaste. A guest found the Baeri fresh and melting in the mouth.

Oscietra Drawn from the Acipenser Gueldenstaedti sturgeon, and a sought after variety of Caspian caviars. It is dark amber in colour. Firm. It is an exceptional full-bodied grained caviar with a lingering nutty flavor. Very consistent texture. A guest found the Oscietra to have a more balanced flavour, and it transported her to the sea world.

packed grains in the tin with all. Sonia shared her insights about how caviar is very much like a wine, but it should never be smelled – it needs time to reveal the true flavours, and needs to be tasted several times to be enjoyed. “You can eat as much caviar as you want, unlimited… if you can expense it”, Sonia answered a query. Sure, wouldn’t that be lovely!

She took charge and began to carefully separate the berries before scooping out the servings into the golden spoon. Alors, she revealed the more romantic tasting style of placing it on the webbing of a clenched fist. As it was left on the skin, Sonia encouraged us to hold up the scoop of caviar against the light, admire the size and colour. We learned that the lighter the colour and bigger the size,

Prunier Malossol The master piece caviar. A light metallic grey colour. Very rich in character due to a unique salt content using the traditional Iranian recipe. A pronounced grain. Very intense, complex and overpowering.

Distinctively creamy taste with a long and lasting finish. A tad tannic. A guest found the Prunier Malossol to be something he could get used to, with flavours that elevate and dominate the experience.

and if easily separable, the caviar is graded better – colour, size, texture and of course, flavour. As we finally get to place it on the tongue, we are advised “roll it on your tongue and let it hit the roof, the flavours will explode”!

Our goals were set. We were expected to differentiate the types of caviar – Baeri, Oscietra and Prunier Malossol – that were laid out in the Trio of Caviar platter. Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or from the family cellars in the Aube was my choice for this degustation.

As we tasted the different caviars, we cleansed the palate with water. Even if amidst very animated discussions amongst ourselves, we concluded our tasting notes. We all did quite well, maybe due to our taskmaster Sonia.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

117

Sonia Baeriswyl and Rajiv Singhal

David and Sonia Mathews

Payal Kanwar

Our next platter was a selection of Balik salmon with caviar, and I chose that each be presented with a different style of champagne.

Prunier Malossol topped the foam on the Medallions of Balik Salmon Sjomga Orange and was served with the bling bling Armand de

saffron mash potato and roast baby vegetables as the plat principal.

From the cellars of Champagne emerged Krug Grande Cuvee, which brought a creamy richness to the palate with its powerful oak matured intensity. The slow baked Belgian dark chocolate cake with

Brignac Brut, recently acquired by the rapper Jay Z. Oscietra topped the scallops that were marinated with Kombu and Citrus and was served with the zero dosage Pol Roger Pure. Qiando Baeri topped the lemon ice on the medallions of Balik Salmon Sjomga Tradition and was served with the enchanting Laurent Perrier Rose. We approached the pairings as newly certified professionals, and agreed that the champagne not only complemented the caviar, but also enhanced each other’s taste.

pistachio nougatine and hazelnut ice cream arrived with the purple jacketed Taittinger Nocturne Sec, reminiscent of the iconic Studio 54. A perfect match for a delightful sweet ending.

The chef gave delicate touches of caviar in the champagne beurre blanc around the pan seared Sea Bass which were served with

118

Chef Manish

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

I asked Chef Manish to share his thoughts on the culinary journey, one that he had crafted so well. He acknowledged the task to be very challenging, especially the scallops which could not be hot – his thinking hat went on, and the marination was borrowed from the Japanese kitchen. He, and the team from The Oberoi, took their bow. The evening was a perfect introduction to the treasures of the sea – indeed a FINE Caviar Experience!

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 1 4

89p

Louis Roederer Brut Premier Brut NV

Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Mild and round white fruit nose with elegant charred toastiness underneath apples, cardamom and oceanic notes Palate: Crisp, light-weight palate with fine mousse Ending: Long and lean with lovely acidity In a nutshell: The perfect palaterefresher Buy or not: Of course

85p

Colour: Pale, light, straw-yellow Nose: Fresh, citrus, bisquity, yeasty, apples Palate: Dry, crisp, high acidity, mediumbodied, apricots Ending: Medium-long, mineral, robust In a nutshell: Firm and serious Buy or not:

Food pairing: Salmon pastrami Or try this: Pol Roger Brut

Food pairing: Seafood platter

Final verdict:

Or try this: Lime ice sorbet Polished to perfection

89p Pol Roger Pure Extra Brut NV Colour: Medium-deep lemon Nose: Mild, clean, fresh and youthful pear and peach nose Palate: Soft, fluffy and creamy, light-weight and elegant Ending: Long, dry with good fruit purity In a nutshell: Flawless and pleasurable Buy or not: If calories are a concern When to drink: 2014–2017 Food pairing: Whitefish mousse with aniseed rye bread Or try this: V Devaux Ultra D Extra Brut

Marlboro man of champagne

Armand de Brignac Brut Gold NV

90p

90p

Colour: Pale lemon Nose: Soft, mild, elegant, spicy with overt fruit Palate: Fresh and smooth with medium intensity, a fine delicate mousse Ending: Balanced and fresh In a nutshell: In between styles

Buy or not: If you can expense it When to drink: 2014–2018 Food pairing: Fried scallops Or try this: Gresso Luxor Las Vegas Jackpot phone Final verdict: Light-weight, easy-going and elegant but not much complexity

Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV

Colour: Pale cherry pink Nose: Pretty, spicy, sweet cherry nose

Palate: Subtle, generous, balanced, elegant with an energetic mousse Ending: Medium-long, fresh, compact In a nutshell: Red fruits and age – a classic

Yes, if crisp and robust is your style

When to drink: Now–2018

When to drink: 2014–2019

Final verdict:

Drappier Carte d’Or

Buy or not: Without hesitation When to drink: 2014–2019 Food pairing: Smoked salmon Or try this: A bouquet of roses Final verdict: Delivers in its elegance, balance and vibrancy

93p

Krug Grande Cuvée Brut NV

Colour: Medium-deep lemongreen Nose: Rich, evolving nose of depth, some spicy new oak notes, gunpowder, oriental spice, vanilla and ripe apple Palate: Full, layered, mellow and firm Ending: Concentrated yet elegant In a nutshell: Highly intense with tremendous potential Buy or not: If you wish to arrive When to drink: 2014–2025 Food pairing: Sole Meunière Or try this: Monte by Montecristo Jacopo No. 2 Final verdict: Finely crafted

Final verdict: Pleasant, pure and fresh with a fine balance

87p

Taittinger Nocturne

Colour: Pale, light, lemonyellow Nose: Fresh, apricoty, candied, gently toasty Palate: Medium-sweet, vivid, fruity, toasty and medium-bodied Ending: Moderate length, mineral, lemony twist In a nutshell: Perfectly balanced Buy or not: Yes - a safe bet in a nightclub When to drink: Now Food pairing: Fresh berries with whipped cream Or try this: Piper-Heidsieck Sublime Final verdict: Very refined and wellbalanced sweetness

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

119

CASTLES CAPITAL CUISINE Text & Photos: Visit Luxembourg

T

he Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is a cosmopolitan and multi-

cultural country in the heart of Europe, sharing borders with Belgium, France, and Germany. Luxembourg is a fairyland destination which offers unique sights for visitors of must-see remnants of the country’s illustrious past. There is something for everyone food and wine... a range of authentic experiences that move people and touch their hearts.

120

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

©LFT_ThomasLinkel

– heritage, culture, nature, industry,

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 2 0 FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

121

© Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT

Useldange

Castles Luxembourg has often been referred to as the "Gibraltar of the North", because of the strong and impregnable fortifications built by Louis XIV's fortress builder, Vauban. More than 50 castles that dot its landscape have been restored to their former beauty to reflect the rich heritage.

The 17th century Renaissance Castle, Beaufort, in the Mullerthal region (Luxembourg’s Little Switzerland), is built on a medieval fortress from the 12th century. This castle is magnificently lit up when it is the backdrop for a very popular annual Rock Classic Festival in July/ August.

Vianden

122

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

© Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT

The oldest parts of the Clervaux Castle date back to the 12th century. Post-restoration, the castle is home to "The Family of Man" exhibition curated by the Luxembourg born and worldrenowned photographer Edward Steichen that was included in the UNESCO Memory of the World Register in 2003.

The Bourscheid Castle from the 11th century impresses with its size – with its 12,000 square meters it is the Grand Duchy’s biggest castle in terms of surface. Bourscheid is perched 150 meters above the river Sûre and the castles 8 towers offer stand-out panoramic views.

Towering above the Our valley, on the left bank of the river Rhine, the castle of Vianden (11th -17th century) is one of the greatest historic fortifications in Europe. Its silhouette impresses from far. The steep hike to reach the castle is well worth it – the castle is one of the most magnificently and intrinsically restored fortresses of the Grand Duchy. From

These are just some of the castles and fortresses, the plethora of remains from the medieval era, spread out across the heights of the Ardennes or the green slopes of the Guttland. The informative circular trail set up by the Service des Sites et Monuments Nationaux is another great way to discover life during that era and explore the ruins from close-up. It is unlikely that one will be disappointed with the historical relics that Luxembourg has to offer.

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 2 0

the colourful chapel to the archaeological crypt, the knight hall to the weapons room without forgetting the banqueting hall, Vianden is perfect for those interested in medieval traditions and architecture.

© Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT

© Jos Nerancic/LFT

Capital Built amid deep gorges cut by the Alzette and Pétrusse rivers, the city of Luxembourg is a modern city with very deep roots. The real mix of styles between the remnants of the past and contemporary architecture presents a rich tapestry of contrasting urban experiences.

Beaufort

The remains of the Lucilinburhuc Castle acquired by Count Siegfried of the Ardennes in 963 on the "Bock" promontory in the heart of the present-day capital city

Bourscheid

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

123

highlight the more than 1000 year old history. Equally fascinating is what is below the surface – a 23 km long network of casemates (tunnels and galleries) that were built as a subterranean defence – these famous ruins of medieval fortifications were classified by UNESCO in 1994 as World Heritage Sites.

The lively and bustling capital, rich in landscaped green spaces, is historically renowned as an established financial hub. In the present day, besides hosting several European Union institutions, Luxembourg offers an ideal platform for dynamic business activity in very diverse sectors.

124

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

© Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT

The national motto is Mir wölle bleiwe wat mir sin, which is Luxembourgish for “We want to remain what we are”, alluding to the many attempts of various nations wanting to take control of this country. This is inscribed on the beautiful façades from the Flemish Renaissance era in the old city, where people enjoy terrace time – specially in the summer – on the picturesque, quaint, cobbled streets.

© Alfonso Salgueiro/LFT

Venues for artistic expression, like the stunning Philharmonie Luxembourg, abound and a creative, multi-lingual, multi-cultural, and eclectic cultural offer is representative of the city’s dwellers – more than 170 different nationalities call Luxembourg home.

© A.Schösser/LFT

F I N E Fa l l 2 0 2 0 © A.Schösser/LFT

Cuisine

beans). Bouneschlupp (green bean soup), Iertsebulli (pea stew), Traipen (black pudding served with potatoes and apple sauce) are typical Luxembourgish traditional dishes – simple, hearty and wholesome – that are being reimagined by the young culinaires.

Life is too short to drink bad wine and to eat without pleasure – and you’ll do neither in Luxembourg!

From a geographical point of view, Luxembourg is one of the smallest countries in Europe. But, from a gastronomy point of view, this tiny nation ranks among the biggest. per capita of its population, Luxembourg boasts the highest number of starred restaurants that have convinced the gourmet jury of French Guide Michelin to be awarded with at least one star. This gastronomic success is the result of the emphasis on quality of local products, attention to the highest standards and the diversity in the range of sustainable produce.

The national dish is Judd mat Gaardebounen (cured and smoked collar of pork served with broad

©ORT Région Moselle

What is considered typical Luxembourg cuisine?

Home to over 170 nationalities, Luxembourg is a genuine cultural melting pot whose myriad foreign influences and home recipes have also found their way into the nation’s kitchens to add value to the local heritage of cuisine. Luxembourgish gastronomy is especially cosmopolitan. The gastronomical journey through the cultures of the world offers foodies and gourmets what their heart desires.

To enjoy all on offer, why not bring in bottled poetry to make a meal outstanding and memorable. Celts, Gauls and Romans have all cultivated vines on the steep slopes in the Moselle valley and the know-how has been handed down and improved successfully over the centuries. The Grand Duchy’s renowned crémant is much awarded in international competitions.

This is the Luxembourg "good life". Immerse yourself and discover this enchanting little country – let it captivate you.

FINE WINE & CHAMPAGNE INDIA

125

Fall 2020

F I N E W I N E & C H A M P A G N E I N D I A V o l u m e 1 0 | I s s u e 3 | Q 3 2 0 2 0 DELENG/2010/35861

1

£15 | `900

1 9 4 7

•

N IN TH

A u s t r a l i a

•

P o r t

•

B o r d e a u x

AN N IVER SA RY

•

C a v i a r

I S S UE