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a supplement to

GUIDE TO BRITISH & CONTINENTAL CHARCUTERIE 2018-19

Masters of time INSIDE: • A-Z guide to 99 suppliers • Ranging & merchandising tips • British Cured Meat Awards • Recipe videos to share IN ASSOCIATION WITH

MasterChef’s Dhruv Baker and Tom Whitaker are slowing down the clock at new venture Tempus Food


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A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST


WELCOME A supplement to

What was an underground movement a few years ago is coming into its own By MICK WHITWORTH

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

IT’S YEAR FIVE of our industry-sponsored Sell More Charcuterie campaign, designed to get delis, farm shops, food halls and chefs making more of high-end cured meats, and that also means our fifth annual guide to British & Continental charcuterie. Regular readers will notice we’ve given the guide a new name this year – The Cure. It’s bit of rebranding and upgrading that neatly reflects what’s happening in the British charcuterie market right now. Skim through our 2018 A-Z directory of producers, starting on page 15, and you won’t just find a lot more of them listed – 99 this year, compared with 73 in 2017. There’s also a more grown-up, confident look about many of Britain’s home-grown suppliers. What was still almost an underground movement a few years ago, tentatively asking to share a little space with the venerable charcuteriemakers of Italy, France and Spain, is coming into its own. As two key distributors, Rowcliffe and Harvey & Brockless, each point out in our round-up of ranging and merchandising tips on page 9, the Brits are now the innovators, boldly trying out new recipes and even new meats that don’t just echo the Continental styles but take them in new directions. Curious Foods’ limited edition llama, cumin & rosemary, on page 23, makes that point nicely. We report too on the inaugural British Cured Meat Awards (page 11), set up by Sean Cannon and his wholesale team at Borough Market and forming part of a festival of cured meats in that heartland of London food culture. It’s one of two award schemes launched in 2018, with Henrietta Green’s British Charcuterie Awards going for the volume consumer market at BBC Countryfile Live at Blenheim Palace in August. And behind the scenes, here at the Guild of Fine Food we have now published our long-awaited technical Code of Practice for Artisan Charcuterie Production, backed by a Primary Authority partnership with Cornwall Council. Feels like we’re starting to get where we wanted to go, doesn’t it?

Inside PRODUCER PROFILE: Tempus Foods

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RANGING & MERCHANDISING 9

EDITORIAL editorial@gff.co.uk Editorial director: Mick Whitworth Editor: Michael Lane Assistant editor: Lauren Phillips Reporters: Lynda Searby, AJ Sharp, Sally Morgan Art Director: Mark Windsor Cover image: Isabelle Plasschaert ADVERTISING advertise@gff.co.uk Sales director: Sally Coley Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executive: Becky Stacey

BRITISH CURED MEAT AWARDS 11 A-Z OF SUPPLIERS 15 PRODUCER PROFILE: Artigian Quality

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PROMOTIONAL RECIPES 44

GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: +44 (0)1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0)1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk www.gff.co.uk ADDRESS Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK PUBLISHED BY The Guild of Fine Food Ltd © The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2018. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. PRINTED BY Blackmore, Dorset

Find a supplier... A Pinch of Salt 15 Adlington 15 Alternative Meats 15 15 Ambrose Sausages Artigian Quality 15 Beal’s Farm 15 Bellota 16 Big Beefys Biltong 16 Black Hand Foods 16 Black Mountain Smokery 16 Braw Biltong 16 Brindisa 16 Bumble & Boots 19 Cal Tomas 19 Cannon & Cannon 19 Capreolus Fine Foods 19 Charcutier Ltd 19 Charles Macleod 19 Chiltern Charcuterie 19 Cibosano 20

Clash Farm 20 Cobble Lane Cured 20 Corndale Farm 20 20 Cornish Charcuterie Crown & Queue 20 Curd & Cure 23 Curious Foods 23 Cwm Farm 23 Deli Farm Charcuterie 23 Delicioso 23 23 Districts of Italy Donaldsons of Orkney 25 Duchy Charcuterie 25 Dukeshill Ham 25 East Coast Cured 25 Ember Snacks 25 Emmetts 25 Eversfield Organic 25 Forest Pig 26 From Our Farm 26

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Grazing Bull 26 Great Glen Charcuterie 26 Gwella 26 26 Harvey & Brockless Ispini 29 30 Hay Charcuterie Highland Charcuterie 30 Hugh Maquire 30 Isle of Wight Biltong 30 Ke Nako Biltong 30 Kent Collection 30 Lishman’s of Ilkley 30 M-Eat Biltong 33 Macneil’s Smokehouse 33 Made for Drink 33 Marsh Pig 33 Meatsnacks Group 33 Mediterranean Direct 33 Mevalco 33 Montanheira 33

Moons Green 33 Native Breeds 33 Negroni 35 35 Norfolk Charcuterie North Wall 35 Oxsprings 35 Patchwork Paté 35 Patriana 35 35 Peelham Farm Perinelli Salami 35 Porcus 35 Rutland Charcuterie 36 Serious Pig 36 Severn Spots 36 Somerset Charcuterie 36 Staal Smokehouse 36 Stag & Bull 36 Stonehouse Smokery 36 Suffolk Salami 36 Tempus Foods 36

Tenuta Marmorelle 36 The Cambridge Biltong Co 39 The Cress Co 39 39 The Cure Charcuterie The Fruit Pig 39 The Lamb Charcuterie Co 39 The New England Boar Co 39 The Ojos Foods 39 The Real Boar Co 39 The Salt Pig Curing Co 39 The Weald Smokery 41 Three Little Pigs 41 Trealy Farm Charcuterie 41 Ummera 41 Welsh Jerky Co 41 Wenlock Edge Farm 41 Woodalls 41 Woodcock Smokery 41 Woza Biltong 41

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PRODUCER PROFILE

Butcher and Baker MasterChef alumni Dhruv Baker and Tom Whitaker have combined their flavouring and butchery skills in Tempus Foods, the year’s spiciest new charcuterie start-up Interview by MICK WHITWORTH

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MasterChef buddies Dhruv Baker (left) and Tom Whitaker

JUNE 2018 SAW SOMETHING of a first for the British cured meats market: the launch of a new premium producer, fully formed, with a stunning product line-up, instant credibility in foodie circles and around nine tonnes of product already in its production pipeline. No converted Portakabins here, no HeathRobinson “fermenting cabinets” cobbled together from old fridge freezers. New start-up Tempus Foods is in a good-sized, two-storey factory unit on a Surrey industial estate, equipped with all the right gear to take whole carcases from raw meat to Continental-style cures. What’s more, early reactions to its products A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST


– including my own – suggest Tempus Foods could be taking high-end British charcuterie to a new level. The business is the brainchild of two BBC MasterChef alumni, Dhruv Baker and Tom Whitaker. It was formally launched at cool London eatery Charlotte’s W5 on 5th June, where the menu spoke volumes about their chef-led approach, starting with “cured dairy cattle beef, summer truffle, Berkswell cheese and dandelions” and wrapping up with chocolate marquise spiced with the same mixture as Tempus Foods’ spiced loin, including coriander seeds and cinnamon. “Bizarrely, that works a treat,” Baker tells me, as we chat in the upstairs office of the unit in Weybridge, a few weeks before the launch. “We use an excellent spice supplier so there’s a real florality and tropical fruit notes coming off the coriander seeds and added depth from the cinnamon.” This is not the language of your average charcutier, but that’s hardly surprising. Baker was MasterChef winner in 2010, and went on to work at Le Gavroche, The Kitchin and The Connaught before publishing his first book, Spice, in 2014 and opening The Jolly Gardeners gastro-pub in south-west London. Whitaker, his friend and business partner, was a MasterChef finalist in 2011 and went on to develop his own private dining business, London Dining Concept. But he is also very much the butcher and charcutier in the partnership, having studied Continental-style artisan production in Italy. “Tom had been making charcuterie for a number of years,” Baker tells me, “and he said he’d like to have crack at it with my approach to flavouring. So I came up with a few recipes and tried them with the kind of pork we’d be using and it went from there.” He adds: “Over the past few years I’ve had to get up to speed with the butchery and production side of things. My role is changing slightly more towards the commercial side, but for the past four months I’ve been in the cold room every day, butchering, curing, stuffing, tying and hanging – a meaty groundhog day.” With capital from two outside investors, Baker and Whitaker haven’t had to skimp on the fit-out of their two-storey production unit, and have even had bespoke software developed to track every aspect of production, from arrival of their rare-breed Large Black pig carcases through to dispatch. The line-up spans the full Continental range, from cured jowl (guanciale) to Whitaker’s stunning take on air-dried ham from the hind quarters. It also includes a bresaola-style airdried beef made from aged, dairy cull-cattle. Not a kilo of meat had been sold when The Cure visited ahead of June’s official launch, but Tempus Foods was set to hit the ground running. “We’ve got about nine tonnes in production at the minute,” Dhruv Baker told us, “and there’s a very fine line between excitement and terror. Sometimes I wake up in a cold sweat, thinking we could be left with a room full of very expensive charcuterie. But if we get the response we hope to get and struggle to meet demand, that will bring its own challenges.” dhruv@tempusfoods.com A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST

Blacks in the UK. It’s not a wide base of producers, but we’ve calculated what volume we can work up to in the next 12-18 months and we think there’s room to grow within that base. THE FAT’S THE THING One reason we take pigs at 120kg-plus is that the consistency of the back fat changes with age. With a young pig, it’s quite malleable and soft, whereas in the older animal the back fat hardens up. For salami you want that textural variation, otherwise it doesn’t go through the slicer plates very well. It just sort of smears. You also get a wonderful fat cap on the loin of an older pig. With a young animal it’s just a flabby bit attached to the eye.

‘Pata negra jamon is hard to beat, but we can give them a run for their money’ DHRUV BAKER ON LARGE BLACK PIGS, SUBTLE SPICING AND GETTING AWAY FROM ‘CHEAP MEAT’ HOW WE STARTED Tom and I met through MasterChef and by coincidence ended up sharing a commercial kitchen. Tom had trained in charcuterie-making in Italy, and we started making some as a hobby. The feedback from friends was generally good, so we took it to Sean Cannon [of wholesaler Cannon & Cannon] and said, “What’s your honest opinion? Are we in the ball game or have we totally duffed it?” He was genuinely surprised, I think, at the level of what we were producing. So we raised some money – quite a lot of money, from two private investors – and took on this site. FINDING THE RIGHT PIG We spent a good two or three years experimenting with different heritage breeds and every cross you could imagine, but the Large Black stood head and shoulders above anything else. If you look in Italy or Spain, the starting point is the breed – they don’t use five or six different pigs. The Large Black will probably become our defining characteristic, our base point. After that, it’s about what we choose to do with it. But we did make a rod for our own backs. It’s an incredibly rare breed and we need decent numbers, not just one or two pigs a week. We also want them at a minimum of 120-130kg, not the usual 60-70kg. It took a lot of research and a lot of calls, but now we’ve now got brilliant relationships with three suppliers. We buy from two family farms in Norfolk – Barrats and Scotts Field – and also HMP Lincolnshire, where the prison farm has one of the biggest herds of Large

MEAT IS MEAT? NOT TRUE We could have found a far more cost-effective source of pork, but then we’d compromise on the quality. A lot of people are interested in the breed, and we don’t want to just say “made from heritage pigs” which could be X, Y or Z. We want specificity, because that gives us consistency. You’ve still got variation from animal to animal, but ultimately it’s the same breed and that’s our flag in the ground. A Gloucester Old Spot and a Tamworth have completely different makeups, physiologically. The fat-to-lean ratio is completely different and the flavour is completely different. I’ll argue until I’m blue in the face with anyone who says, ‘Meat is meat and it’s what you do with it that dictates the flavour’. That’s balls.

A lot of products out there are very flavour-forward. We’ve tried to do something more nuanced

TIME, MEAT – AND MAGIC Along with bread, wine and cheese, charcuterie is one of those alchemous, wonderful products that start with the most basic of ingredients and, through the magic of fermentation, become something incredible. The linking factors across those four are the level of ingredients and the time you give them – hence our name, Tempus Foods. We’ve got these great pigs, and what we’re adding is time: time in ageing the animal, and time in curing and maturing. PRICE COMES SECOND – FOR NOW We don’t want to make ‘alright’ charcuterie. If CONTINUED ON PAGE 6

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PRODUCER PROFILE we’re going to do it, we want it to be the very best it can be. It has to be commercial or it’s not sustainable, but we don’t want to have to sacrifice anything. If we’d started by looking at the price it would have to come in at, we’d immediately have been making compromises. If we are way out with our prices, we’ll have to reevaluate everything – and we’re going to have two very stroppy investors – but we will stick to our guns for now and see how we go. People look at charcuterie as a commodity and expect it priced as a commodity. Maybe we’re five years too early, but I’m hopeful the commoditised approach is going. NO ROOM FOR RISK-TAKING I don’t think charcuterie is a product to just take a punt on. It’s a relatively young industry here and – unlike in Spain or Italy – there’s no real heritage of air-dried meat. It would be so damaging if someone came into it thinking, ‘How hard can it be?’ and actually ended up making something dangerous. We spent a lot more time, effort and money setting this business up. Our HACCP document is 192 pages. When we showed our EHOs, one of them said, “You’re way in excess of anything we would ever ask for.” We’ve had some bespoke manufacturing software designed that tracks everything: pH tests, water activity, the weight and quantity of curing salt that’s gone onto every piece of meat, the temperature it was worked at, the

temperature it was delivered at... We want to be in stores like Harrods and Selfridges at some point, and without these systems we can’t be. RE-WRITING THE BOOK ON SPICING All our products have a degree of spicing, and it’s about finding something that will accentuate that natural sweet-savoury nuttiness you get with really good pork, without overpowering it. I wrote a book called Spice, but when I try to explain it, people look at me like I’m slightly crackers. You kind of have to eat it to get it. We spent years choosing the Large Black. If we hit it with a tonne of spice it would be completely counterproductive – we could have used any pig for that. A lot of products out there are very flavourforward and the spice tends to dominate. We’ve tried to do something more nuanced. Fennel salami can often be overpowering. With ours, there are five or six other spices in there that act as a foil to the natural sweetness from the fennel. Other stuff starts happening, 6

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but you can’t quite put your finger on it. It’s there, then it’s gone again before you’re close to grabbing hold of what the flavour is. Bold flavours are what some people are after, and there’s absolutely a place for it. But I think, within that group of people who enjoy charcuterie, there will be a proportion who want something more subtle. EASY ON THE SMOKE We look at the smoke in the same way – as an added ingredient. The further east you go in Europe, the more smoke they tend to use on their meats, and while some of it’s fabulous, with others the smoke obliterates everything. Again, it’s finding that balance and using smoke to enhance or accentuate the profiles we have. ART AND SCIENCE Ultimately charcuterie is quite a simple process. Once you’ve understood the science element, then comes the kind of artistry: trying different flavours, playing around with the pH of the salamis. With our system we can keep track of that in every batch – for example, increasing or decreasing the amount of dextrose that goes in, which in turn determines how hard a drop in pH you’ll get by slowing or accelerating the starter culture. Once we know which we prefer flavourwise – “1% dextrose for a harder pH drop”, say – that becomes the set process. If someone is interested in charcuterie they’ll find that fascinating. If they’re not, they’ll have stopped reading by now! LET’S STICK TOGETHER There are some brilliant British charcutiers, and their reaction to us on social media has been great. People way more established than us have been saying, “Congratulations guys, what you’re doing looks great. Come and see our operation; we’d love to come and see yours”. That’s absolutely the attitude we’re taking. We need to make British charcuterie a viable alternative to the traditional suppliers, and for that to happen it will need a collaborative effort. Some people will never buy British, but I do think that as long as it’s comparable or better in quality, and there or thereabouts in terms of price, it’s just about getting people to try it. In Spain, they wouldn’t baulk at paying €30-40 for a plate of ham. Do that in this country and people will say, “You’re having a laugh!” It’s an education process that will take a long time. But hopefully it will start to filter through, because you get what you pay for. This whole concept of ‘cheap meat’ needs to be eradicated. A Spanish pata negra jamon with a glass of sherry is hard to beat. But what do they add to that product? Only salt. It’s about the pigs and what they’ve eaten; the fact they have two hectares of space each and walk 14km a day and eat 2kg on average of acorns. You can’t speed that up or fudge it. It is what it is. But we can give them a run for their money.

THE PRODUCTS KING PETER HAM Named after Tom Whitaker’s late father, a deep flavoured air-dried ham enhanced with black pepper, juniper and a gentle smoking with chestnut wood. SPICED COPPA Pork collar spiced with cardamon, cloves, cinnamon and more. SMOKED COPPA Cured and aged in the same way, but with a subtle smoke replacing the spices. JOWL (GUANCIALE) One for real charcuterie lovers: pig jowl with the cheek muscle removed, cured and spiced with fennel and coriander seed before being smoked and aged. SPICED LOIN Butchered to leave a generous cap of buttery fat, with a gentle spice mix that includes mace, star anise and black pepper, allowing the flavour to build slowly with successive mouthfuls. ACHARI SPICED SALAMI Traditional fermenting techniques are combined with Indian pickling spices, including Tellicherry black pepper, fennel seed and fenugreek, for a “genuinely unique, contemporary product”. HOUSE SALAMI Styled on a French saucisson sec flavoured with just black pepper and aged for two to three months.

AIR-DRIED DAIRY BEEF Already pitched as a Tempus speciality, this bresaola uses deep flavoured meat from cull cattle of up to 17 years old, cured and aged to break down the proteins and leave no trace of toughness. RILLETTES Large Black pork hocks slow-cooked in rendered fat and flavoured with a spice blend including fennel, cumin and mustard seeds. A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST


6XкеRON6DODPL )DUPKRXVH&KDUFXWHULH Award Winning Salami and Charcuterie Produced on Our Family Farm with Our Home Reared Pork.

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THE CURE 2018-19

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Since 1907 the star of Negroni is the symbol of high quality charcuterie in

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EXCELLENCE IN ITALIAN CHARCUTERIE SINCE 1907

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RANGING & MERCHANDISING Goodness Grazers

Lead us into temptation Buying great charcuterie is easy nowadays, but what about selling it? We asked for views from three experts on maximising the appeal of cured meats on shelf, in deli counters and on the menu. Interviews by MICK WHITWORTH JASON FISHER Managing director Rowcliffe Think seasonal The essential lines to stock change seasonally. ’Nduja, the spreadable spicy sausage, is a product most executive chefs are using on their menus in summer, for example. Summer also means Parma ham wrapped around breadsticks; freshly baked breads topped with bresaola, rocket leaves and balsamic creams; pancetta cubes crisp fried and topped on salads... Balance the Brits and Continentals British charcuterie is more exciting, as the producers experiment more freely with use of aromatics, meats and cuts. Continental meats are more traditional, and rule-bound. Have a balance, depending on your customers, and have tastings of both on display for them to try. Presentation matters Make a sampling board look attractive and inviting by displaying pre-sliced meats in rosettes, with a cocktail stick. You could even go a little more creative, pairing them up with cheeses. Try Parma ham with bocconcini (mini buffalo mozzarella) and mini plum tomato on a cocktail stick. Keep classics on board Charcuterie boards should feature all the classics – Parma ham, salami, pancetta, coppa, culatello, bresaola and mortadella. Serve then with breadsticks, fresh bread, rocket and a drizzle of balsamic cream and some seasonal fruit. A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST

JAMES SIMPSON Co-founder Somerset Charcuterie How much to stock It’s better to have a good stock of a few core lines if your volumes are low. Chorizo, coppa and fennel salami would be my essentials. If you can sell more, 4-5 fermented sausages and 4-5 cured meats will make for a strong display. Whole or pre-packed? Some customers want the convenience of grab-and-go so it’s essential to have prepacks, but they come at a premium. It’s ideal if you can also slice to order to take advantage of the better margin – but overall, sliced packs move more volume. Grab-and-go beer sticks go especially well in premium outlets, sold as singles. Go for variety Think about having some lean products – lonza/lomo, bresaola, etc – as well as those with 20%-plus fat content. Many UK consumers are still squeamish about fat. Offer a mix of quirky British and classic Continentals, spicy and mild and different colours. And think about meats like beef, duck or venison too, although pork always sells best. Sampling really works We’ve experimented, putting some lines out for sampling and not others, and the sampled products will outsell the unsampled by around 8:1. Once people have tasted the product, as many as 80% will buy it. This is another good reason to slice in store: it’s easier to prepare a few tasters and the margin will allow for it.

GRAHAM STOODLEY Category manager Harvey & Brockless Price issues? Slice thinner! Slicing to order gives a better-tasting product, and you can give customers a lot of slices for fairly little weight. Whole pieces also cost the retailer less and will last longer. Keep it curated I wouldn’t try to stock everything. A small, curated selection shows you’ve considered the range and chosen the best for your customers. Create perfect pairings Pairing with other food and drink definitely adds interest and is a conversation point. Beer pairings work well with robust and spicy salamis; sparkling wine is the one for subtle meats like air-dried ham, culatello or coppa. Be provocative – offer tastings of blue cheese and beef salami – but avoid anything overly sweet or vinegary. Chutneys can be too aggressive, but pickled veg can work well. Big up the Brits The flavours are just getting better and better, the recipes are more interesting, welfare standards are higher and so are the stories – most can be traced back to the person who made them. And you don’t have to be Nigel Farage to see the sense of supporting local producers and reducing food miles. Can you deliver? Offer party platters – charcuterie, cheese, fish, antipasti – delivered to the customer’s door. Who could resist? THE CURE 2018-19

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BRITISH CURED MEAT AWARDS

Festival of Britain Borough Market’s first festival of charcuterie in May proved an unexpected triumph for Yorkshire butcher Lishman’s – and for the whole cured meats sector IT WAS A COMING OF AGE for British charcuterie: its first dedicated festival at the hub of London’s foodie culture and the first awards celebrating the very best of Britain’s emerging cured meat talent. Borough Market’s all-ticket British Cured Meat Festival took place under blazing sunshine on Sunday May 27th, with over 500 foodies and their families arrived to taste charcuterie, drink craft ales, listen to live music and soak up the bank holiday atmosphere. Scottish producers Great Glen Charcuterie and Peelham Farm were the furthest travelled of the makers taking part, joining the likes of Capreolus Fine Foods (Dorset), Cobble Lane Cured (London), Trealy Farm (Monmouthshire), Oxsprings (Worcestershire), Somerset Charcuterie and Moons Green (Kent) to sample and sell. Others came along as visitors, including Richard and Fionagh Harding from Cornish Charcuterie and Jonny Cuddy of Ispini in Northen Ireland, winner of the 2017 Great Taste Golden Fork for charcuterie. Other stallholders included Ross & Ross, best known for its bacon curing gift packs, brewery Fourpure Beer, wine merchant Jascots, and the World Cheese Awards, with a cheese stand manned by award-winning London cheesemonger Rhuaridh Buchanan. Entertainment included music from

up-and-coming folk-Americana stars The Wandering Hearts, two weeks before they headed to Nashville, USA, to appear at the Grand Ol’ Opry. Centrepiece of the food festival, organised by Sean Cannon and his team from Boroughbased wholesaler Cannon & Cannon, was the final judging of the inaugural British Cured Meat Awards by a panel including chefs Jose Pizarro, Dan Doherty and Tim Maddams, food writers Sabrina Gayhour and Xanthe Clay, and Harrods charcuterie buyer Bernadette Lalonde. Judging was chaired by Guild of Fine Food editorial director Mick Whitworth, with the Guild’s London team of Christabel Cairns and Stephanie Rogers running the process. First-round judging, held over two days in late March at the Guild’s No 42 Southwark Street training venue, just round the corner from Borough Market, had seen around 160 entries whittled down to a shortlist of 40 products across four categories. The eventual winners, announced on the Festival stage by Sean Cannon and TV chef Simon Rimmer, spanned recent start-ups and established names. British cured meats pioneer James Swift of Trealy Farm Charcuterie collected the ‘whole muscle meat’ trophy for his air dried pork collar. London-based artisan producer Cobble

Lane Cured won ‘best cured sausage’ with its rustic Islington Saucisson Sec. Newcomer Highland Charcuterie & Smokehouse won ‘best soft or spreadable meat’ for its pork rillette. The day’s biggest success story was Yorkshire family butcher Lishman’s of Ilkley – another relative newcomer to charcuterie, and winner of Butcher’s Shop of the Year in 2017. Owner David Lishman collected the ‘best cooked or smoked meat’ trophy for his company’s perfectly seasoned and snappy Yorkshire frankfurters, then looked stunned to be named overall ‘Producer of the Year’ – a title reflecting the number of high-scoring products achieved across all the award categories, and a huge endorsement for this emerging producer. One final winner was the Guild’s own Mick Whitworth, presented with the Steven Lamb Cured Meat Hero Award – named after the River Cottage meat guru – for his support of the emerging charcuterie sector over the past few years. Sean Cannon described May’s event as “an almighty party... uniting our great nascent industry for a day in the sunshine”. “We had winners from Wales, Yorkshire, London and the Highlands of Scotland illustrating the national spread of production and of quality,” he said, promising that the festival would return in 2019. CONTINUED ON PAGE 12

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BRITISH CURED MEAT AWARDS Yorkshire butcher David Lishman (below right) celebrates his double win in the British Cured Meat Awards with TV chef Simon Rimmer

Final-round judges in the British Cured Meat Awards include Sunday Times ‘editor in chef’ Lisa Markwell, Harrods buyer Bernadette Lalonde and chef and Britain’s Best Home Cook judge Dan Doherty

Anja Baak of Great Glen (left) with Cornish Charcuterie’s Fionagh Harding

Artisan producer Cobble Lane Cured joined the line-up in the cured meat demo theatre

Ross & Ross Foods showcased its DIY bacon curing packs

John Doig of Moons Green in Kent

AWARD FINALISTS & WINNERS PRODUCER OF THE YEAR

MUSCLE MEATS

Lishman’s of Ilkley

WINNER: Trealy Farm Charcuterie – Monmouth Air-Dried Pork Collar Marsh Pig – Wild Boar Coppa Somerset Charcuterie – Culatello Ispini Charcuterie – Mace Coppa AG & SC Clarke – Stud Farm Coppa Norfolk Charcuterie – Holkham Venison Biltong Perinelli Salami – Coppa The Artisan Smokehouse – Smoked Beef Fillet The Real Cure – Hartgrove Coppa The Rutland Charcuterie Company – Coppa Woodall’s – Black Combe Air-Dried Ham, Royale Air-Dried Ham Native Breeds – Air Dried Venison Haunch Tempus – Cured Dairy Beef

SALAMI WINNER: Cobble Lane Cured – Islington Saucisson Cornish Charcuterie – Lucanian Lamb Salami Cwmfarm Charcuterie Products – Leek Salami Great Glen Charcuterie – Pork Salami Moons Green Charcuterie – Owley Farm Mutton, Preserved Lemons & Rosemary Saucisson Cwm Farm Charcuterie Products – Laverbread Salami Somerset Charcuterie – Fennel Salami Wenlock Edge Farm – Hunters Salami Ambrose Sausages – Woodland Salami Great Glen Charcuterie – Green Pepper Venison Salami Lishman’s of Ilkley – Pepperoni with Red Wine Salami Clash Farm Pedigree Saddlebacks – Red Wine & Fennel Salami Shropshire Salumi – Shropshire hunters salami Marsh Pig – Fennel Salami

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COOKED OR SMOKED WINNER: Lishman’s of Ilkley – Yorkshire Frankfurter, Smoked Streaky Bacon Native Breeds – Hot smoked beef brisket The Fruit Pig Company – Dry Cured Cold Smoked Ribeye/Collar Bacon Trealy Farm Charcuterie – Spicy Boudin Noir (Black Pudding), Pastrami Highland Charcuterie & Smokehouse – Hot

Smoked Highland Venison Sausage with Elderberries and Juniper The Franconian Sausage Co – New York Deli Pastrami Cornish Charcuterie – Traditional Pork Rillette Wenlock Edge Farm – Wenlock Edge Farm Ham The Fruit Pig Company – Fresh Blood Black Pudding

SPREADABLE Highland Charcuterie & Smokehouse – Highland Pork Rillettes, Highland wild venison pate with elderberries & Islay whisky. Cobble Lane Cured – Nduja Perinelli Salami – Nduja Capreolus Fine Foods – Dorset Soft salami Black Hand Food – Nduja Woodall’s British Charcuterie – ‘Nduja Cornish Charcuterie – Cornish ‘Nduja Cwm Farm Charcuterie Products – ‘Nduja Peelham Farm Produce – Organic ‘Nduja Three Little Pigs – Spreadable Chorizo

STEVEN LAMB CURED MEAT HERO AWARD Mick Whitworth – Guild of Fine Food

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MULTI AWARD-WINNING ARTISAN CHARCUTERIE MADE WITH PASSION IN CORNWALL WHOLESALE **** RETAIL **** FOODSERVICE

Deli Farm Charcuterie Delabole, Cornwall PL33 9BZ 01840 214106 www.delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk dfc@delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk


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C R A F T E D AT T H E H O M E O F B R I T I S H CHARCUTERIE, PROPER SNACKING F O R T H O S E W I T H G R E AT TA S T E

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@Woodalls1828 www.woodallscharcuterie.co.uk 14

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS A PINCH OF SALT apinchofsaltcuring.co.uk Situated in New Milton, Hampshire, A Pinch of Salt is a collaboration between third-generation master butcher Alan Bartlett and The Pig hotel chain’s chef director, James Golding. This producer works with meat from local farms, cured to Golding’s original recipes. The range includes pancetta, chorizo, salami, ‘Karma’ ham, bresaola, lomo and coppa.

ADLINGTON adlingtonltd.com Adlington Deli and Smokehouse is the new brand for poultry specialist Adlington’s traditional cooked and smoked products, which are supplied to fine food retailers across the country. The poultry meats are cooked and smoked in the family firm’s own purposebuilt facility, with a blend of chestnut and oak chips used in the smoker. Adlington’s cooked products are slowly steamed, which it says “maintains the texture and moisture within the product”.

ALTERNATIVE MEATS (BLIGHTY BILTONG) alternativemeats.co.uk Alternative Meats has been supplying the UK’s leading chefs with artisan meat products for 17 years. Specialist products include Welsh Wagyu beef, Mangalitza pork black pudding and British rose veal. Its Blighty Biltong brand is a union between British Wagyu beef and South African tradition, with four flavours available.

AMBROSE SAUSAGES ambrosesausages.co.uk Established in 2011 by Hampshire’s Phil and Sue Ambrose to recreate a 100-year-old family sausage recipe, Ambrose Sausages now produces a range of charcuterie including a Great Taste two-star winning pork, truffle & porcini mushroom salami. The line-up also includes Hampshire salami – a former charcuterie winner in the Great Hampshire Sausage & Pie Competition – and air dried meats, all made using the family’s free-range traditional breed pork. Latest products include portion-controlled charcuterie platters for fine dining pubs, restaurants and bistros.

ARTIGIAN QUALITY artigianquality.com Owned and run by the Scapin family for over 30 years, Artigian Quality produces traditional, handcrafted mortadella in the classic Italian luncheon meat’s spiritual home, Bologna. The company – which is actively seeking distribution in the UK speciality food trade – uses no industrialscale machinery and makes its gluten- and lactosefree mortadella without colourings, emulsifiers or other processing aids. Two of its varieties have granted Slow Food Presidio mark, and its Mortadella Sette Chiese is Bologna’s first organic-certified mortadella.

BEAL’S FARM bealsfarmcharcuterie.com Located in East Sussex, Beal’s Farm specialises in charcuterie made from Mangalitza pigs, a Hungarian rare breed famed for its thick, woolly, sheeplike coat. The animals are reared on a mix of woodland and pasture to ensure the highest possible quality pork. There are three Mangalitza types – Blonde, Red, and Swallow-Bellied – all high in omega 3 oils and monounsaturated fats. Beal’s Farm products includes a ‘special reserve’ range of air-dried ham, as well as coppa, spalla (pork shoulder) and lomo.

A-Z of charcuterie suppliers Whether you’re buying for the deli counter, grab-and-go chiller, snack fixture or for a café, bar or restaurant menu. the choice of charcuterie suppliers has never been greater. You’ll find nearly 100 of them here, from slick, health-focused biltong brands to inspirational artisan curers.

Compiled by LYNDA SEARBY, AJ SHARP and MICK WHITWORTH

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS Biltong bistro-style BRAW BILTONG brawbiltong.com

It might not be the first ingredient you’d reach for when making pasta carbonara or a batch of scones, but according to Chris McConville, South African-style dried meat biltong is under-used in British kitchens. “It’s much more versatile than most people in the UK are aware of,” says McConville, who, together with Lloyd Jankielsohn, has founded Perthshire’s Braw Biltong. “It can be used as a pizza topping, in salads, in baked potatoes, in a carbonara-style dish, on cream cheese and crackers, on grazing platters, in quiche, in soups, even in breads and scones He acknowledges there are a number of biltong brands in the UK – many featured in this edition of The Cure – but he points out “most focus on it as a snack, and, worse, as a competitor to jerky and other cheap snacks.” This is not what Braw is about. “We’re not looking for a gap in the market; we’re looking to create a whole new category – to make good biltong far more mainstream, as both a high quality snack and a modern charcuterie ingredient,” McConville says. To this end, Braw’s flagship Proper Biltong uses rump beef from Buffalo Farm rather than “the more commonly used cheaper cuts”. Beef is butchered into strips and marinated in a freshly prepared spice mix before being slow dried to achieve a consistent texture and to avoid case hardening.

BELLOTA bellota.co.uk Since it was founded in 1998, importer Bellota has set out to provide a full range of acorn-fed Iberico charcuterie, including hams and chorizos. Its Chorizo Reservas, rendered from white pigs in La Rioja, are available as dulce and picante variants, both of which are gluten-, additive, and preservativefree. Aside from Bellota’s range of Iberico and Serrano hams, owner Nic Tolhurst says the company’s Cabezada de Lomo – a marbled, tender, aged tenderloin cut – has proved particularly popular.

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BIG BEEFYS BILTONG bigbeefysbiltong.com Big Beefys Biltong is a healthy, high protein snack, hand-made in Turriff, Aberdeenshire, using natural, PGI Scotch Beef. The range comprises four flavours – original, chilli, honey mustard and piri piri. All are sold online as whole pieces, but the first three are also available in sliced 35g snack packs. Big Beefys Biltong is low in calories, with no preservatives or additives.

BLACK HAND FOOD blackhandfood.com Established four years ago in east London, Black Hand has now up-scaled, moving to a dedicated site in north London from which it supplies catering, hospitality and delicatessen customers nationwide. The company uses only rare breed meat – mainly Gloucester Old Spots and Berkshires – to create a range of pork charcuterie including culatello, air-dried collar and hard-herb cured loins. It also processes lamb, venison and game, and has launched a range of fresh sausages and dry-cured and matured bacon.

BLACK MOUNTAIN SMOKERY smoked-foods.co.uk Smoked fish, meats and cheese all feature in the range from family-run Black Mountain Smokery, which was set up in the Brecon Beacons in 1996. The firm says it uses raw ingredients handpicked for their quality, provenance and sustainability, which are then traditionally cured and gently smoked over Welsh oak. Products include an award-winning smoked Suffolk Gressingham duck breast, lightly cured and gently kiln roasted to produce “a rich yet deliciously delicate flavour”.

BRINDISA brindisa.com Perhaps the best known Spanish food specialist in the UK trade, Brindisa’s range includes acorn-fed hams, naturally air-dried charcuterie, regional specialities and cured meats. Recent additions include venison, wild boar and duck charcuterie from Sierra Morena, Andalusia, while the range of spreadable chorizo now includes Mallorcene sobrasada, made from “porc negre”. The native black Ibérico pigs of south-west Spain provide Brindisa with ham from the four DOP regions, including three-year cured Señorio de Montanera DOP from Extremadura.

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BRITISH CURED MEAT CHAMPIONS SINCE 2011

CANNON & CANNON is the first name in British cured meat and charcuterie. We proudly represent the best producers in the UK for wholesale to food service and retail nationwide as well as into Europe.

+44(0) 207 4035 481 info@cannonandcannon.com www.cannonandcannon.com

Contact us for British charcuterie retail solutions, fast and efficient distribution, product development and to discuss our new high specification SALSA accredited slice and pack facility opening in September 2018.

Founders of the first British Cured Meat Festival & Awards. For all the highlights and results visit our website www.britishcuredmeatfestival.co.uk 18

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Rare Breeds Survival Trust – the best meat from the best animals Special business packages available from just £100 per year

Access more customers by joining our food map In partnership with BigBarn Find out more at rbst.org.uk

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Rare Breeds Survival Trust THE CURE 2018-19

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS BUMBLE & BOOTS bumbleandboots.co.uk Bumble and Boots Beef Jerky is handmade in small batches, which ensures �consistent high quality�, according to Andrew and Fran Gillett, who set up the EXVLQHVVLQ'RUVHWƓYH\HDUV ago. Made to the couple’s own recipe, with no nitrates RU06*WKH%XPEOH %RRWV range has collected a Great Taste award and a Gold in the Taste of the West awards.

CAL TOMÀS ecologicaltomas.com For over 100 years, the Cal Tomàs family have been raising animals and producing traditional dried pork sausages and dried meats in the northern Spanish Pyrenees. Today’s fourth-generation owners use recipes handed down from their greatgrandparents to make additive-free cured meats and salamis, cured naturally in their own cellar. Products include botifarra, a traditional Catalan blood sausage, and fuet, which is a slim, airdried, salami-style speciality. Selling to restaurants, butchers and delis across Spain, Cal Tomàs is now seeking a UK distributor.

CANNON & CANNON cannonandcannon.com Specialist wholesaler &DQQRQ &DQQRQKDV worked with British charcuterie for seven years, representing “legendary� producers such as Trealy Farm, Moons Green and Great Glen as well as rising stars including Cornish Charcuterie, Cobble Lane and Blackhand Foods. ,WV6HOHFWHGE\&DQQRQ  Cannon sliced-and-packed retail brand is gaining national traction, says founder Sean Cannon. “We’ve already added British bresaola, coppa, jerky and biltong to the range and we plan to continue expanding this year with air-dried smoked mutton, cured duck breast and spreadable chorizo.�

CAPREOLUS FINE FOODS FDSUHROXVƓQHIRRGVFRXN Based in rural Dorset, Capreolus uses locally bred meat to produce a wide range of charcuterie, from smoked mutton through to soft, spreadable salamis. All its recipes have been developed by owners David and Karen Richards, taking inspiration from traditional Continental products but adding a West Country twist. The producer’s numerous awards include Taste of the West Supreme Champion Product in 2013 for its guanciale (cured pig’s jowl) and a three-star Great 7DVWHDZDUGIRULWVWUXIŴH infused lardo.

CHARCUTIER LTD charcutier.co.uk Illtud Dunsford’s farmbased business in rural Carmarthenshire won Best Producer at the 2016 BBC )RRG )DUPLQJ$ZDUGV for a range of charcuterie built mainly around pedigree Welsh pigs. Now, Dunsford – who has travelled extensively around the globe to study meat processing – has pulled away from retail products to focus on meat consultancy and product development for clients ranging from street food operators, retailers and Michelinstarred chefs to food multinationals. He continues to produce charcuterie for a small number of private manufacturing clients.

CHARLES MACLEOD charlesmacleod.co.uk The multi-award winning Stornoway black pudding, made with Scottish oatmeal and a well-balanced seasoning, is the signature product of Charles Macleod. Based in Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides, this is a family business that stretches back over seven decades. It also makes white pudding and haggis, using meat sourced from personally known suppliers and reared on island pastures.

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Out of the hills CHILTERN CHARCUTERIE chiltern-charcuterie.co.uk

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS For the love of Saddlebacks CLASH FARM

clashsaddlebacks.co.uk While most people save their best wine for their favourite dinner guests, Clash Farm adds a slosh to each batch of Great Taste two-star red wine & fennel salami it produces. “We only use the best ingredients that we can source, such as a Chianti Reserva wine,” says Caron Stewart, who runs the business with husband Robert. Indeed, to this pair of British Saddleback devotees, flavouring their meat with anything but first class ingredients would be sacrilege. The Stewarts have reared pedigree rare-breed British Saddleback pigs on their Stranraer farm for over a decade and describe themselves as “huge supporters” of the breed. “It is the most versatile pig breed in our eyes and the tastiest,” says Stewart. “The quality and taste of the meat and fat is far superior to that of commercial pigs.” This is partly inherent in the breed but also due to the Stewarts’ husbandry. All their animals are allowed the freedom to follow their natural behaviours and live in family groups, resulting in what they boldly claim is “the best pork you will ever taste”. And this respect for the animal continues into its ‘afterlife’, when it is made into small 10kg batches of salami and chorizo using traditional methods. The pork is hand trimmed and the fat is cut by hand. It is hand mixed and the sausages are filled and tied by hand. The only concession to technology is the use of a drying cabinet that the couple imported from Italy to control temperature and humidity, ensuring optimum conditions for curing and flavour development. Everything the Stewarts do is a triumph of quality over quantity, an approach that yields an unashamedly luxurious product. “We sit at the top end of the market due to our high input costs,” says Stewart, candidly.

CIBOSANO cibosano.co.uk Working closely with producers across all regions of Italy, family-run importer Cibosano offers a range of Italian foods, from cured meats to cheese and Mediterranean vegetables. Its charcuterie range runs the gamut from prosciutto, cooked hams, pancetta and coppa to regional specialities such as speck, Cotechino di Modena and guanciale Nostrano. At its headquarters in Greater London it recently launched a custom-built slicing facility offering a flexible service. The company distributes across the UK to retail and foodservice.

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COBBLE LANE CURED cobblelanecured.com A winner in the inaugural British Cured Meat Awards, Cobble Lane Cured supplies restaurants and pubs from a small unit in Islington, offering a range of cured, air-dried, smoked and fermented meats. Working with British farmers, suppliers and chefs, using a variety of cuts and techniques, it makes products that it says “reflect a rich, diverse and evolving food culture”. These include Italianinspired goat salami, Middle East-inspired pastirma (highly seasoned, air-dried cured beef), Yorkshire Mangalitza hams and Welsh Wagyu all-beef salami.

CORNDALE FARM corndalefarm.com Northern Ireland’s Corndale Farm produces free-range charcuterie with pork from its own free-range Saddleback pigs. The award-winning product range includes chorizo, salamis, whole muscle air-dried products and new lines that are focused on local ingredients, like venison salami using wild sika deer from Baronscourt Estate and air dried lomo flavoured with “Irish Black Butter”. The company supplies retail, restaurants and hotels and collaborates with top chefs including JeanChristophe Novelli.

CORNISH CHARCUTERIE cornishcharcuterie.co.uk Based near the north Cornwall coast, Cornish Charcuterie creates products ranging from chorizo to coppa, guanciale, and lardo, as well as patés and a popular Cornish seaweed & cider salami. Its patés and rillettes come in 15 flavours (including two vegan and one vegetarian option). Its cured meats are produced from British Lop pigs reared on site or sourced from local farms. The newly launched Lucanian Lamb salami has been recreated from an ancient Roman recipe, using cured and smoked mutton, pine nuts, herbs and spices.

CROWN & QUEUE curedmeats.london Names like Lincoln Imp, Mother’s Ruin and Hoghton Loin tell you immediately that Crown & Queue’s range is a little different from the mainstream. In fact, says owner Adrienne Eiser Treeby, it doesn’t make “charcuterie” at all, but celebrates Britain’s own “rich and diverse gastronomic history”. Lincoln Imp, for just one example, is a drycured sausage echoing the flavours of fresh Lincolnshire sausage and Lincolnshire plum bread, with ingredients including sage, garlic, lovage, dried fruit and Kernel Brewery’s Export Stout.

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Exemplary Cooked and Smoked British Poultry for the Fine Food Market Available nationwide, please contact us for details sales@adlingtonltd.com 01676 532681 www.adlingtonltd.com A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS Pack to the future DELI FARM CHARCUTERIE cibosano.co.uk

Now in its 13th year of operation, Cornwall’s Deli Farm was one of the pioneers of British charcuterie, with owners Jean and Martin Edwards developing a range that spans around a dozen salamis, air dried prosciutto, coppa and bresaola, and biltong and other snack formats. This year saw a radical rebranding of its pre-sliced retail products, giving them “the packaging look they deserve”, according to Jean Edwards. The range already includes a number of novel options, including duck prosciutto, and product development continues apace. “Martin has built a purpose-made smoker this year to enables us to smoke our own products,” says Jean. “And we are just about to launch our culatello and fiocco, which are dry cured in a simple mix of salts and spices, cold smoked in apple wood and then slowly dried, so they develop the wonderful flavour of the smoking but maintain the pork flavour of the meat.” Culatello – often considered the “king of hams” – is made from the hind leg of the pig, while the lesser-known fiocco is the smaller of the leg muscles. Other products on the Deli Farm list include beef crisps: thin pieces of biltong, “dried to a crisp”, which can be eaten as a snack or crumbled over salads. The extensive salami range includes truffle, black olive and oak-smoked paprika variants, as well as a spicy salami with star anise and a special-edition Christmas salami.

CURD & CURE curdandcure.co.uk Kent-based deli and farm shop supplier Curd & Cure has long been a wholesaler of Continental charcuterie but has now added two of the best Brits – Deli Farm Charcuterie and Moon’s Green Charcuterie – to its list. Deli Farm’s smoked lamb prosciutto, fennel & anise salami and wild venison bresaola were among new product’s added to Curd & Cure’s summer 2018 brochure. The wholesaler also sells Spanish and Italian meats, either whole under their makers’ brands or in Curd & Cure-branded pre-packs.

CURIOUS FOODS curiousfoods.co.uk Pitching itself as “salami for the non-conformist tradition”, Curious Foods’ takes a creatvie approach to flavouring, with cured sausages ranging from fennel, cumin & garlic to beetroot, quinoa & caraway variety. Owner Mat Leaver also produces bespoke flavours for special commissions. “One example was for a wedding,” he says, “where I made a special batch of Cantonese duck salami, and my latest limited edition is llama, cumin & rosemary. I thought I might call it ‘sallama’!”

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CWM FARM cwmfarm.co.uk South Wales-based artisan producer Cwm Farm is bestknown for its Welsh-themed recipes, such as laverbread salami and leek salami. However, its range – available in snack sizes or larger tied salamis for the deli counter – also includes fennel and paprika variants, and well as an ’nduja. And it continues to expand. Co-owner Ruth Davies spent 16 days in Tuscany early in 2018, returning with a pork & rosemary spreadable salami recipe that will soon be added to the range.

DELICIOSO delicioso.co.uk Specialising in artisan foods from Spain, many with ‘denomination of origin’ status, importer Delicioso says its cured meats range reflects the importance of charcuterie to Spanish culture. It offers an extensive lineup of award-winning Ibérico and Serrano hams, cooking chorizos, slicing chorizos and salami. New for 2018 are mini chorizo and salami bites in small 55g snack bags. Firmcured and with ambient storage, they are said to make a handy snack or addition to a picnic or tapas platter.

DISTRICTS OF ITALY districtsofitaly.co.uk Available to delis, food halls and restaurants, the line-up of speciality meats from importer Districts of Italy includes award-winning Tanara Giancarlo Ancient Black prosciutto from Parma, made from free-range black pigs. According to the importer, meat from Parma black pigs has an intense, ruby red pigmentation and a strong internal marbling, giving “tenderness and rich depth of flavour”. The Districts of Italy range also includes Tanara Giancarlo Ancient White prosciutto, which it says is best carved straight from the bone.

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Launching Truffle Prosciutto Crudo Cured for 16 Months on the bone. Deboned and filled with a mixture of fresh black summer truffles and Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Cured again to make sure that the truffle flavour penetrates the whole leg. Delicate truffle flavour melt in the mouth Prosciutto Crudo.

www.tenutamarmorelle.com | +44 (0)1189 298480

The Truckle Cheese Company, home to award winning products including its farmhouse cheese truckles, is delighted to be working with Dorset-based, Ford Farm offering their cave aged products, traditional West Country Farmhouse Cheddars aged deep within the caves at Wookey Hole in Somerset.

Classic & Contemporary Cheeses and Accompaniments

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS A twist on tradition EAST COAST CURED

eastcoastcured.com “Steven is one of those annoying people who can turn their hand to producing anything,” says Susie Anderson, affectionately, of her husband and – of late – business partner. After 10 years of putting his talents to use in the brewing industry, Steven started experimenting with charcuterie, and in March 2017 launched East Coast Cured together with Susie, a former designer. “We felt there was a gap in the British charcuterie market for contemporary slow-cured Scottish meats and poultry,” she says. “We’ve been making the products at home for the last few years with a view to going commercial.” From their workshop in Leith, Edinburgh, the duo draw on traditional methods to cut, smoke, cure and slow mature locally reared, high welfare meats, combined with select ingredients that add a modern dimension. Porcini & truffle salami is one of the highlights in the producer’s range of salamis and whole muscles. Shortlisted in the Scotland Food & Drink Excellence Awards, this “luxurious” representation of a European classic is made by fermenting a recipe of pork mince, creamy back fat, truffle and white wine, for 12-14 hours. “It’s a favourite among trade and consumer customers, because it’s very luxurious and the truffle and porcini are beautifully balanced,” says Anderson. “I don’t know of anyone else in the UK making salami with this ingredient combination.” East Coast Cured has caught the attention of Edinburgh restauranteur Martin Wishart and former Norn patron chef Scott Smith and is on the menu in eateries across Scotland’s capital city, as well as making regular appearances at local farmers’ markets.

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DONALDSONS OF ORKNEY donaldsonsoforkney.co.uk Specialities from one of the UK’s most far-flung producers include the award-winning Orkney smoked beef, created with fillets of beef cured and marinated in red wine, spices and herbs, and then cold smoked. The Donaldsons of Orkney range comprises dr-cured sliced bacons, hams and haggis and it also prepares its own hot- and cold-smoked salmon. The hot smoked salmon is a former Great Taste ‘Golden Fork’ winner, and its haggis was among 2016’s three-star products.

DUCHY CHARCUTERIE duchycharcuterie.co.uk A move to new premises means Duchy Charcuterie owner Marc Dennis can ramp up production of a range that “continues to push the boundaries” with lines such as chilli & chocolate, cider & cheese and fennel & orange salami sitting alongside wholemuscle meats. These unusual flavour combinations have caught the attention of restaurant clients including the Craft Guild of Chefs, and Dennis says his new premises in Redruth, Cornwall, will help him build his base in retail too.

DUKESHILL HAM dukeshillham.co.uk A Royal Warrant-holding family business, based in Shropshire, Dukeshill produces a range of traditional British cured meats. Its flagship products are its hand-cured Wiltshire, York and Shropshire black hams, and it has more recently introduced St George’s ham, described as a mild and moist meat baked with a spiced orange glaze. Dukeshill also offers traditionally dry-cured bacon, sausages, porchetta, gammons and other cured meats.

EMBER SNACKS embersnacks.com It was the need to fuel their bodies healthily while rowing the Atlantic and taking part in Ironman competitions that drove the sporty founders of Ember Snacks to develop their “high protein, sugar-free, guilt-free, tasty snacks”. But their biltong – currently available in original and chilli flavours – is also finding a market in mainstream delis and pubs. The product, made with British and Irish meat, has no no added sugar, just herbs and a touch of salt.

EMMETTS emmettsham.co.uk Emmett’s claims to be the oldest artisan ham and bacon producer in the UK. Established in 1820, it is still family-owned and operating from the same village premises in Suffolk – although it now exports around the globe. Its hams are made solely from the hind leg of the pig using all-natural ingredients, while all its pork is from Suffolk - mostly from Blythburgh Free Range. Its signature Suffolk Black Ham is marinated in Nethergate Suffolk porter, giving “immense depth and flavour”, then hot smoked in its original brick smokehouses.

EVERSFIELD ORGANIC (ROAM & RELISH) eversfieldorganic.co.uk Roam & Relish is a range of handmade, artisanal, organic charcuterie produced in Devon by Eversfield Organic. Soil Association-certified, it is produced from British traditional beef and outdoor bred and reared pork. The vac-packed range includes honey-smoked, smoked and unsmoked streaky and back bacon, a range of sliced hams and salt beef. Its “new and improved” organic pastrami uses organic beef brisket, hot-smoked over oak logs and rubbed with spices including coriander and paprika.

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS Lamb dressed as ham GWELLA It’s seldom you come across a product that is truly unique, but Gwella’s wet-cured lamb really is the only one of its kind. “We are the only people in Europe wet-curing lamb,” says Lowri Thomas, who, together with husband Bryn, founded the business in September 2016 as a means of securing the future of the family farm in Aberystwyth and providing an opportunity for their autistic son. But being a trailblazer is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, Gwella has no direct competition. On the other, persuading people to try the cured lamb has been a “hard slog”, according to Thomas. “It is such a different product that people don’t know what it tastes like,” she says. Thomas likens the texture to Wiltshire ham and says it has “none of the congealed, hard fat taste that you get with cold, cooked lamb”. It is clear that Gwella is onto something – its cured and cooked lamb picked up two stars in the 2017 Great Taste Awards – yet it remains one of Wales’ best kept culinary secrets, only available via farmers’ markets and a few local restaurants, delis and cafés. However, the word will probably soon be out, as Gwella has entered all six of its charcuterie products – including cooked and cured beef and mutton – into this year’s Great Taste, and is shortly moving out of its home kitchen and into a dedicated production unit on the farm. Sarah Maingot/Harvey & Brockless

FOREST PIG CHARCUTERIE forestpig.com Established seven years ago by Jeremy and Sally Levell in Shropshire, Forest Pig Charcuterie supplies shops and restaurants with handmade products including a premium salami range from a herd of largely wild, forest-dwelling pigs. These include rustic, truffle, hazelnut and spiced walnut varieties. The company also produces whole muscle meats including traditional pancetta, coppa, a paprika & rosemary lomo and its best seller: black pepper & juniper lomo.

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FROM OUR FARM fromourfarm.co.uk Prime cuts of grass-fed, farm assured beef from its own Pembrokeshire farm are the main ingredients in From Our Farm biltong, which is available in original and chilli flavours and as whole sticks or pre-sliced 40g portions. “We can trace any pack straight back to the farm as far as the animal ID tag,” says Rachel George, who founded the business with husband Michael. “This provenance offers customers total reassurance about our quality and ethical standards.”

GRAZING BULL grazingbull.com Husband and wife team Niall and Laura O’Grady began making their own jerky when they struggled to find protein-rich snacks “that weren’t pumped full of sugar”. They now source premium, grass-fed Irish meat, and add up to 10 freshly ground spices for each of the three flavours in their Grazing Bull range: smoked paprika & coriander, mild Indian curry and fiery Mexican chilli. A hand-crafted small batch process gives this jerky an “intense and authentic flavour”, says Niall O’Grady.

GREAT GLEN CHARCUTERIE greatglencharcuterie.com Best known for its venison products – including the Great Taste ‘Golden Fork’winning green pepper venison salami – Great Glen has just launched its first pure pork salami, with a delicate spicing to bring out the flavour of the locally reared Scottish pork. “We wanted to diversify from our venison charcuterie and offer a homegrown alternative to mainstream imported salamis,” says Anja Baak, who runs Great Glen alongside husband Jan Jacob.

HARVEY & BROCKLESS harveyandbrockless.co.uk Specialist wholesaler Harvey & Brockless has spent 20 years tracking down quality cured meat producers from as far apart as the Spanish dehesa, Italian mountains and Scottish Highlands. The range now include hams, sausages, salamis and coppas, all with a strong sense of place. More recently it has been developing its own brand, Salt & Cure, including innovative triple-pack selections – a mix of cured meats from different artisan producers, designed to help chefs and retailers sell as wide a range as possible.

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JAMÓN DE BELLOTA IBÉRICO: PROBABLY THE FINEST HAM IN THE WORLD Jamón de Bellota Ibérico is made from acorn fed, free-range, native Ibérico pigs, raised and fattened in the oak forests of south-west Spain. Brindisa imports acorn-fed ham from the 4 DOP regions in which they are produced. Brindisa offers carving training for all customers of Ibérico hams on the bone. Order from our expert team: 020 8772 1600 | sales@brindisa.com www.brindisa.com A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST

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WILDMAN BASED ON THE FARM IN THE YORKSHIRE DALES OUR RANGE OF BRITISH CHARCUTERIE & SALUMI INCLUDES EVERYTHING FROM TRADITIONAL YORKSHIRE DRY CURED BACONS TO THE ORIGINAL YORKSHIRE CHORIZO. FIFTH GENERATION YORKSHIRE BUTCHERS PRODUCING FARMHOUSE SAUSAGES FROM OUR OWN FAMILY RECIPES, SALAMIS, SAUCISSON, GUANCIALE, PANCETTA, COPPA, BRESAOLA, PASTRAMI & BILTONG. MONTHLY PORK BUTCHERY, SALUMI & CHARCUTERIE COURSES.

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A family smokehouse in the Scottish highlands for over 70 years

    

    

    

   

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Supreme Champions in 2006, regional winners in 2009 and with continued success at Great Taste year on year, you can be assured of quality from Woodcock Smokery

Hot-smoked Atlantic mackerel

Wild smoked Atlantic salmon

+353 28 36232 | www.woodocksmokery.com 28

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS

Going by the book ISPINI CHARCUTERIE ispinicharcuterie.com

It all started four years ago when County Tyrone pig farmer Jonathan Cuddy was given a book about pork butchery and curing by his wife. Cuddy’s initial experiments with charcuterie led to him embarking on a programme at Northern Ireland’s CAFRE (College of Agriculture, Food & Rural Enterprise), where he honed his fermented sausage-making skills. A one-week intensive course at the Nottinghamshire School of Artisan Food rounded off his education, and by December 2016, Cuddy was ready to go commercial with his charcuterie. Adopting the Irish word for sausages, Ispini launched its hand-crafted salami, chorizo, bresaola, coppa and lomo. Formerly a pig farmer supplying the supermarkets, Cuddy was used to rearing his large white Durocs indoors to produce lean pigs. The “charcuterie pigs” Cuddy now rears for Ispini are the same breed but are treated differently – kept indoors in winter and turned out in summer, with five or six pigs made into cured meats every week. Cuddy’s pride in his Northern Irish identity is evident in almost every product Ispini makes and gives its charcuterie an authentic point of distinction. “I didn’t want to copy the Spanish and the Italians so I have put an Irish twist on some of the products,” says Cuddy. For example, Ispini uses Armagh cider rather than white wine in its chorizo, and makes a stout & molasses A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST

Cuddy’s pride in his Northern Irish identity is evident in almost every product Ispini makes

lomo based on a 250-year-old cure recipe Cuddy came across in an old Belfast newspaper. But the product that has won the greatest acclaim is more continental in its style: a bresaola with rosemary & thyme that was awarded the Golden Fork for Best Charcuterie at Great Taste 2017. Cuddy says that as yet it has not been possible to fully capitalise on this win as volumes are limited by the rented production space Ispini occupies. However, the company is in the process of moving into a converted egg washing house on the family farm, a move that will provide scope for Ispini to scale up and expand its range. “The new facility will have two big ageing rooms that hold a tonne each and are humidity and climate controlled,” he says. While the renovation work has been going on, Cuddy has been negotiating listings, and reports that he has distributors “lined up for Ireland and the UK”. He has also been busy working on Ispini’s next new product – a whisky and seaweed salami that continues the Irish-inspired charcuterie theme. “Northern Ireland is famous for its whisky, and seaweed has always been a part of the diet,” explains Cuddy. “I wanted to marry these two flavours. “The challenge has been getting the level of whisky right so that it adds a kick to the saltiness of the seaweed. That has been a process of trial and error.” Customers and advocates of Ispini charcuterie currently include Grand Central Hotel in Belfast and Wine & Brine in Moira, but this is a business on the cusp of a new era – pretty soon everyone in the trade will know the Irish word for ‘sausage’. THE CURE 2018-19

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS HAY CHARCUTERIE IRUHVWSLJFRP New start-up Hay Charcuterie is run by chef and charcutier Rod Lewis and his wife Rachael in Hayon-Wye. All their products are hand-crafted in small batches using only highwelfare, local, free-range and rare breed pork. The range comprises salamis (calabrese, fennel, picante & chorizo), cured whole muscles (coppa, Ć“RFFRORPRHPEXFKDGR  and Hereford ham (a prosciutto-style ham, dry cured and washed with local Herefordshire cider) as well as bacon, guanciale, pancetta, pastrami and sausages.

HUGH MAGUIRE thesmokinbutcher.com Ireland’s Hugh Maguire is a seasoned butcher with over 30 years’ experience, and his multi-award winning smoked black pudding is DĆ“QHEOHQGRIWUDGLWLRQDO Irish and Mediterranean charcuterie methods. Maguire – known in Co Meath as “the smokin’ butcherâ€? – is one of the few producers using 100% natural ingredients, including fresh pigs’ blood, pin-head oatmeal, Himalayan pink salt and natural pork casings, with QRDUWLĆ“FLDODGGLWLYHVRU preservatives. A slow smoking process using beechwood chips gives the pudding its characteristic OLJKWVPRNHGĹ´DYRXU

ISLE OF WIGHT BILTONG (GREEFF’S) LVOHRIZLJKWELOWRQJFRXN His biltong business may be Isle of Wight-based, but Nick Greeff uses traditional methods taught to him by his grandfather on the family ranch in Zimbabwe. Greeff cures his British beef with malt vinegar and sea salt, which slows the drying process to create “an addictive, chewy textureâ€?. 7KHUHDUHĆ“YHĹ´DYRXUV available, both in 30g snack packets for a longer shelf life and loose for sale by weight from the deli counter.

KE NAKO BILTONG NHQEDNRELOWRQJFRXN Fresh from winning BBC 2’s Top of the Shops with Tom Kerridge this spring, Northern Ireland’s Ke Nako Biltong is gearing up for greater sales in the UK and IXUWKHUDƓHOG Launched just a year ago, Ke Nako is a partnership between South African chef Ilse van Staden and Alanagh &KLSSHUƓHOGDOHFWXUHU at Belfast Metropolitan College. Their biltong is made in Northern Ireland to a South African recipe with organically reared, cull dairy cows – a local, sustainable DQGDOVRŴDYRXUVRPHVRXUFH of beef.

KENT COLLECTION NHQWFDWHULQJOWGFRXN Owned and run by Paolo Rigolli and Dalton Hopper, The Kent Collection handcrafts salamis and dry cured hams with a Kentish twist, blending classic Continental recipes with local ingredients. All its pigs are reared especially for the business and fed on local brewers’ grain and whey from a nearby cheesemaker. Rigolli and Hopper LQWURGXFHQHZĹ´DYRXUVRI salami seasonally, such as a wild garlic in spring, and they have recently added the new ‘Kent-cured pork hind’ – their answer to Italy’s culatello.

LISHMAN’S OF ILKLEY lishmansbutchers.co.uk Accolades continue to pour in for Lishman’s. Named Britain’s Best Butcher’s Shop last year by Meat Management magazine, this year the Yorkshire family business was named Best Producer at the inaugural British Cured Meat Awards and won the Best Cooked/ Smoked Product trophy with its latest launch: a Yorkshire frankfurter. Lishman’s has invested heavily in production capacity after scoring highly at Great Taste 2017, including a rare 3-star for its chorizo and 2 stars each for its ’nduja and beef & red wine pepperoni.

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+LJKODQGKRVSLWDOLW\ HIGHLAND CHARCUTERIE #KLJKODQGFKDUFXWHULH Isabelle Flannery might have been born in Cognac, France, but the air-dried meats, hot-smoked sausages and rillettes she and her husband Richard produce from their kitchen in Kinlochbervie are far more representative of the Scottish Highlands. ,Q5LFKDUGDQG,VDEHOOHOHIWWKHKRWHOWUDGHWR launch Highland Charcuterie and Smoke House. They had always made charcuterie for their hotel kitchen and DIWHU\HDUVRIVHYHQGD\ZHHNVIRUVL[PRQWKVRIWKH year, it was “time to try and take it a bit easierâ€?. Even in their remote corner of Scotland, an abundant local larder means they don’t have to travel far for inspiration or ingredients. “We use only local meats, such as free-range rare breed pork from small Highland crofters, wild pheasant and wild Highland venison, and combine them with simple ingredients – seasonal local wild garlic, bog myrtle, rosemary and locally foraged chanterelles,â€? says Flannery. “Our aim is to try not to overwhelm the initial Ĺ´DYRXUEXWWRHQKDQFHWKHHDWLQJH[SHULHQFHĹ? She continues: “We cut all the meats ourselves. We buy a whole pig and use it all, and venison haunches that we seam-cut, separating each individual muscle to eliminate any sinew or gristle. “Some joints are left whole for dry curing and air drying in our maturing cabinet and other parts are cut to make sausages, patĂŠs and rillettes.â€? Although Highland Charcuterie is tucked away in the Scottish Highlands, products like hot-smoked venison sausage with elderberries & juniper and venison salami with bog myrtle & blackcurrants are attracting a following in London, where the producer is listed with Cannon & Cannon.

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CMT

Continental Meat Technology

>LVɈLYZV\UKHK]PJLTVKLYU [LJOUVSVN`H\[OLU[PJZLHZVUPUNZ HUKM\UJ[PVUHSPUNYLKPLU[ZMVYHSS RPUKZVMJOHYJ\[LYPLWYVK\J[Z Z\JOHZ salamis, chorizos HUK dry cured hams HUK cooked sausages Continental Meat Technology 31 Salford Road, Aspley Guise, Milton Keynes MK17 8HT T: 01908 584489 F: 01908 584317

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Specialist importers of quality Spanish food for retail, wholesale and foodservice. High quality products made with natural ingredients are at the heart of our business. Importing from award winning Spanish artisan suppliers, we are committed to providing ethically prepared produce including a HALAL range. Enjoy good, tasty, simple and natural food. ENJOY EVERY MOMENT!

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Patriana

High quality speciality food from France and Spain

Hand crafted artisan jerky est. 2018 Four months on from its launch, Welsh Jerky Co.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s product is available in pubs, bars and delicatessens across Wales Jerky is a snack often associated with the American West; a lean meat, cut into strips and air dried. <PM+WUXIVaKWĚ&#x2020;NW]VLMZ[7_MV/ZQĐ&#x2026;\P[,IVQMT,I^QM[PI^MXZQLMQV\PM fact that the product is high quality grass fed 100% traceable Welsh beef. This unique product from Pembrokeshire based Welsh Jerky Co. is marinated using the freshest natural ingredients available to create a truly tasty healthy [VIKS_Q\PILQ[\QVK\Ă&#x2020;I^W]Z 5WZMLMTQKQW][Ă&#x2020;I^W]Z[IZMK]ZZMV\Ta]VLMZ\M[\[W_I\KP\PQ[[XIKM â&#x20AC;&#x153;From Wales but made for Everyoneâ&#x20AC;?

Basque Kintoa Ham

Serrano Bodega Ham

Bayonne Ham

Duck Saucisson

We offer award winning ďŹ ne food directly from artisan and farm producers in southern France (Basque region/Haute Savoie) and Spain. This includes cured hams, saucissons, chorizos, pates and other specialist charcuterie products. We also have a range of traditional cheeses such as Manchego and Ossau Iraty. Email: sales@welshjerky.com Mobile: 07870533330 www.welshjerky.com

Please visit www.patriana.com, or contact us for more information: E mail: info@patriana.com Tel: 07734114295 Patriana Ltd. The Goods Shed, Station Road West, Canterbury, Kent CT2 8AN



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THERE IS NO CHARCUTERIE WITHOUT HUNGARIAN PAPRIKA! PREMIUM QUALITY PAPRIKA POWDERS FROM HUNGARYÍ&#x203A;S WORLD-RENOWNED PROTECTED GROWING REGION OF SZEGED &Ĺ˝Ć&#x152;Ć&#x161;Ĺ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;ĨƾůůÄ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹŻĹ˝Ĺ?ĆľÄ&#x17E;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÄ&#x161;Ç&#x2021;ŽƾĆ&#x152;Free Samples ŽŜĆ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ć&#x161;ĆľĆ?ŽŜϏϳϴϏϲϳϭϴϳϯϏ ͲžÄ&#x201A;Ĺ?ĹŻÍ&#x2014;Ç&#x152;ŽůĆ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;ĹśÍ&#x2DC;ĹŹĹ˝Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ä?Ć?Ĺ?Î&#x203A;Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ć&#x161;ŽďƾŜĹ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ç&#x2021;Í&#x2DC;Ä?Ĺ˝Í&#x2DC;ƾŏ Ç Ç Ç Í&#x2DC;Ä?Ä&#x17E;Ć?Ć&#x161;ŽďƾŜĹ?Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ç&#x2021;Í&#x2DC;Ä?Ĺ˝Í&#x2DC;ƾŏ

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS M-EAT BILTONG m-eat.co.uk M-eat Biltong began life as a spin-off from South African deli shop The Savanna, which opened in Wimbledon in 2012 and how has seven retail stores in busy London travel locations. The Savanna’s central production facility cures and processes over two tonnes of grass-fed Scotch beef biltong (cured steaks), drywors (cured sausage) and bites each week. The butchery now trades in its own right as M-Eat Biltong, and supplies restaurants, bars, shops and food halls like Selfridges with an award-winning range that includes the Great Taste 2-star peri peri biltong.

MACNEIL’S SMOKEHOUSE macneilssmokehouse. co.uk Recent years have seen Worcestershire-based Macneil’s Smokehouse take the Great Taste ‘Golden Fork’ for the Midlands and a place in the Great Taste Top 50 Foods for its smoked mackerel. Now, after introducing nationwide delivery, it has expanded its small team and seen its client base grow with more restaurants, retailers and caterers. It offers a range of smoked fish, meat and garlic, produced using a Norwegian smoking kiln, and recently collaboration with Droitwich Saltworks to created a smoked salt.

MADE FOR DRINK madefordrink.com Despite trading for little more than a year, snack producer Made For Drink has already gained clients including Fortnum & Mason, Daylesford Organic, Sourced Market and Rick Stein for a range of premium bar snack designed especially to pair with drinks. Its award-winning duck fritons (made for IPA) and chorizo thins (Rioja) have this year been joined by Mangalitza Salami Chips (pilsner), which were launched through outlets include Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck Group.

MARSH PIG marshpig.co.uk Established in 2012, Marsh Pig focuses on high-welfare British livestock, sourcing only free-range pork and rare breed British beef. The East Anglian business uses lean leg meat to make its salamis and chorizo, adds 15% fat to making products that are lower than usual in fat as well as gluten-, wheat- and lactose-free. The range includes six different types of salami, two chorizos, four air-dried muscle meats and three different jerkies.

MEATSNACKS GROUP meatsnacksgroup.com KRAVE is a new line from Meatsnacks group that aims to “change perceptions of jerky biltong”, with slick branding, designed by top agency Pearlfisher, very much to the fore. There are four flavours in the initial range: Szechuan pepper & ginger salt beef jerky; warm Chimichurri beef biltong; zesty lemon & dill salmon jerky; and cherry tomatoes & fennel chicken jerky. Designed to widen the appeal of biltong and jerky, the brand’s key messages include: ‘grass-fed beef’, ‘high protein’ and ‘high Omega 3’.

MEDITERRANEAN DIRECT mediterraneandirect.co.uk Importer Mediterranean Direct offers quality, artisan meats from Italy and Spain to UK trade customers. Its range includes products from multi-awardwinning artisan producer Gelli Salumeria from Siena, Italy, including its Tuscancured pancetta, Finocchiona IGP (fennel salami), wild boar bresaola and an “outstanding” black truffle salami. There is also a range of air-dried and slow-cured Spanish meats from Sierras Riojanas and the Catalan Pyrenees, featuring Iberico hams, chorizo and Spanish sausages.

MEVALCO mevalco.com A fast-growing importer of Spanish fine foods, Bristol-based Mevalco say it is helping preserve rural communities in Spain by finding new markets for traditional specialties. Cured meats form part of a 500-plus product range from around 60 suppliers. The top of the range is a Gran Reserva Serrano, a 100% Iberico Bellota Cinco Jotas from Huelva and a Teruel DOP from Rubielos de Mora. Mevalco also sells a range of cured sausages, including chorizo, Ibérico Bellota and Salchichon.

MONTANHEIRA montanheira.com Montanheira is a multiaward-winning brand of traditional Portuguese black pig charcuterie, selling both whole and sliced pre-pack meats. Its stand-out products include Cacholeira, a smoked liver sausage for cooking, and black pork chorizo, smoked over holm oak wood. Selling both whole muscle and sausages, Montanheira was set up in 2002 to focus on PGI sausages made from Portugal’s own Alentejo black pigs. As demand outstripped supply of these animals it has gone on to process Iberian black pigs too.

MOONS GREEN moonsgreen.co.uk Products like air-dried pork buttock, cobnut & red wine saucisson and buffalo bresaola point to the quirky approach taken by Moons Green founder John Doig, a one-time ad man who also made wine and wrote cookery books before settling into charcuterie. But cured meats are also serious business for Doig and his business partner, chef José Azevedo, whose Kent operation is now seen as one of Britain’s best. This year has seen them partner with award-winning English winemaker Chapel Down to open a charcuterie deli within its Tenterden winery shop.

NATIVE BREEDS nativebreeds.co.uk Ruth and Graham Waddington have been making charcuterie for over 13 years and supply top restaurants and retailers including Fortnum & Mason and the Highgrove Estate. They have also been at the forefront of gourmet streetfood, with products such as smoked beef brisket and ‘clean label’ hot dogs: naturally-smoked frankfurters made using high welfare beef, pork and rose veal. All products, from rosemary beef bresaola to venison & beef salami, are made and packed in their converted barn workshop in the Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire.

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Hot Roast Smoked Salmon

Smoked Haddock Sliced

Smoked Venison

Multiple Award-winner

8VEHMXMSREPP]WQSOIH½WL meats and cheeses created [MXLTEWWMSRTVMHIERHGEVI For our wholesale price list contact Andrew

Ummera Smoked Products Ltd

Tel: 01580 879601 Email: info@wealdsmokery.co.uk

Inchybridge, Timoleague, Co. Cork, WND-86-6WN, Ireland Tel: +353 23 8846644

wealdsmokery.co.uk

info@ummera.com · www.ummera.com www.twitter.com/ummera

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Butchers, Charcutiers & Creators of Fine Frankfurters U Authentic German style Frankfurters, home-made by us in Ilkley, Yorkshire U Winner of Best Smoked Product #GBCuredMeat Awards 2018 U High-welfare Franks, made from only the best cuts U ‘Charcuterie Producer of the Year’ #GBCuredMeat Awards 2018 U We produce all types of European & English Charcuterie & Cured Meats, with several Great Taste Awards amongst them Get in touch some time for samples & tastings

Born, Bred & Made in Yorkshire T:

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Lishman’s, 23-27 Leeds Road, Ilkley, LS29 8DP 01943 609 436 E: shop@lishmansbutchers.co.uk W: www.lishmansbutchers.co.uk

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS NEGRONI negroni.com/en The best-known brand of charcuterie in Italy and its market leader in premium deli meats, Negroni has been established for over a century. Its philosophy centres on control of the entire production cycle from animal feeding to distribution, and its commitment to regional traditions is witnessed by links with several PDO and PGI consortia, including Prosciutto di Parma PDO, Culatello di Zibello PDO and Salame Cremona IGP. Its products are distributed to UK independents by Rowcliffe.

NORFOLK CHARCUTERIE norfolkcharcuterie.co.uk Norfolk Charcuterie was established in 2016 by trained butcher and charcutier Lisa Wheeler, who produces her meats in small batches in Burnham Thorpe, Norfolk. The company uses Holkham estate and Sandringham estate venison, along with freerange East Anglian Pork. The range comprises salami, chorizo, Norfolk lomo, biltong, bresaola and air dried vension.

PATCHWORK PATÉ patchworkfoods.com Winner of more than 90 Great Taste awards over the years, Patchwork offers over 40 patés in various formats and sizes, with a next-day nationwide service. “Our patés in piping bags are proving very popular, as they work well in sandwiches,” says chief executive Rufus Carter, “and our 1kg Tubs of EAT17 Bacon Jam are finding their way into sandwiches and grilled cheese.” The Cress Co distributes Patchwork’s best-selling chilled 120g packs across Scotland and England, with Blas ar Fwyd looking after retailers in Wales.

PATRIANA patriana.com With its own retail outlet in Canterbury’s popular indoor fine food market, The Goods Shed, importer and wholesaler Patriana specialises in sourcing direct from artisan and farm producers in France and Spain. From the French Basque Country come meats such as Bayonne and Kintoa cured hams, saucissons and chorizo, while the Haute Savoie provides a traditional Alpine ham. As well as Spain’s iconic Iberico Bellota, Patriana imports a “very fine” extra mature Serrano ham, along with Cecina air-cured oaksmoked beef.

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NORTH WALL northwall.fwscart.com Based near Hadrian’s Wall in Cumbria, North Wall is a small-batch producer of charcuterie including lonza, coppa, bresaola, speck, chorizo, ’nduja, guanciale and ‘Byzantine Ham’. It also offers a seasonally changing range of salamis. North Wall uses locally sourced meat and adopts “a field to plate mentality” according to owner Andrej Wout.

PEELHAM FARM Peelham Farm is believed to produce the most comprehensive range of home-grown organic charcuterie in the UK, using pork, lamb and beef from its own livestock. A recent addition to the 20-plus products made on its Berwickshire farm is an organic ’nduja, selected as a finalist in the 2018 British Cured Meat Awards. Managing partner Denise Walton says the recipe is not “blow-your-head-off hot” but has enough of a kick to excite the palate and complement a range of foods and drinks including, as recent tastings have shown, a spicy, sherry-caskaged Islay malt.

OXSPRINGS oxsprings.com A client list including Harvey Nichols in Birmingham and London’s East India Club suggests Alex Oxspring’s decision to focus on just one product has paid off. The Worcestershire producer specialises in lightly smoked, air-dried ham, aged for at least eight months. “I source the best British pork legs I can find, paying a premium for the best gilt [female] stock,” says Oxspring. “After various process improvements over the years I’m now able to dry the product more effectively, creating greater weight loss and a richer flavour.”

PERINELLI perinellisalami.co.uk Giuseppe Perinelli learned to prepare and cure a whole pig when growing up in his father’s village in central Italy. Now he and wife Becky Owens are making a range of Italian-style meats using British livestock in their small, artisan operation in south-east London. Products include pork salamis in a range of flavours - fennel, garlic and pepper, paprika, chilli, porcini, apple and cider – as well as ’nduja, guanciale and coppa.

Mastering the dark arts PORCUS porcus.co.uk When SJ and Nat Clegg first set about creating fermented sausage from the rare breed Tamworth, Mangalitza and Old Spots pigs on their farm in West Yorkshire, they knew there was no margin for error. “People who eat salami are perfectionists so it has to be just so,” says SJ. “The trouble is, salami-making is a dark art: you think you’ve perfected it but then you try to recreate it and it doesn’t work.” She continues: “When we first tried, we didn’t get the results we wanted – it had dried too quickly and wasn’t holding together properly – so instead we perservered with our whole muscle cures.” After leaving it a while, they had another go at salami and this time started to get some good results. “We changed the humiditytemperature balance – something that will always be a challenge in the UK climate. I must have put on about 40lb in the process, but eventually, we cracked it.” “Full flavoured and creamy” is how Clegg describes the resultant chorizo, finocchiona, pancetta & Parmigiano and rustic salami, which are receiving rave reviews from chefs and foodies. But this venture is as much about promoting animal welfare as celebrating taste. “Porcus was born out of a notion we could make a difference, by putting welfare firmly alongside flavour in charcuterie production. The animals stay with us for at least 12 months and roam freely, giving them a life of ‘pigginess’ until it’s time to become our food.” THE CURE 2018-19

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS RUTLAND CHARCUTERIE rutlandcharcuterie.co.uk Hailing from Englandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smallest county, Rutland Charcuterie says the local motto, Multum in Parvo (â&#x20AC;&#x153;Much in littleâ&#x20AC;?) captures the essence of artisan charcuterie: intensifying WKHĹ´DYRXUVRIPHDWLQWR products that punch above their weight. The business, founded by former cabinet maker Nick Brake with help from School of Artisan Food tutor Rich Summers, produces three salamis along with duck prosciutto, bresaola, biltong, pancetta, air-dried Rutland prosciutto and more. Its coppa is a Great Taste award winner and British Cured 0HDW$ZDUGVĆ&#x201C;QDOLVW

SERIOUS PIG seriouspig.london One of the original wave of British charcuterie makers, Serious Pig has concentrated on the snack sector, becoming one of the go-to suppliers for snacking salami. It has also branched out into oven-roasted pork crackling made from outdoor-reared British pork, with its Snackling brand. The latest addition is Snackling & Apple, combining crackling with Emily Crispsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; crunchy red apple crisps in a 30g pack. Now backed by James Watt of BrewDog, customers range from Fortman & Mason to farm shops and even Claridgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mini bars.

SEVERN SPOTS severnspots.co.uk Producing salamis and chorizo on its farm near Worcester, Severn Spots numbers Whole Foods Market and the Tebay and Gloucester motorway farm shops among its clients. Using high-welfare free range meat from Packington Pork, the business follows authentic Continental-style recipes to create a range including Tuscan salami with red wine, fennel, pepper and garlic, and chilli-spiced Sopressata. All are made by hand, WKHQDLUGULHGIRUXSWRĆ&#x201C;YH weeks.

SOMERSET CHARCUTERIE somersetcharcuterie.com Somerset Charcuterie combines Italian and Spanish methods with the Ĺ?IDQWDVWLFĹ´DYRXUVDQGULFK food culture of the West Countryâ&#x20AC;? to deliver meats ZLWKEROGUREXVWĹ´DYRXUV Using traditional breed pigs, outdoor-reared in Somerset, its 16 products include cider chorizo, red wine & Draycott blue salami, air dried duck breast, smoked air-dried Wrington ham, and a sage, mustard & cider salami. Pride of their stable is an award-winning culatello â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the best quality ham, cured, washed in cider, sewn into a sowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bladder, then aged for 12 months.

STAAL SMOKEHOUSE A small, craft operation in east Yorkshire, Staal Smokehouse offers a UDQJHRIĆ&#x201C;VKDQGSRXOWU\ traditional cured and smoked over oak and apple wood, with a level of smoke chosen to complement the product rather than mask it. The range includes smoked salmon, gravadlax, hot smoked rainbow trout and mackerel and twicesmoked duck and chicken.

STAG & BULL stagandbull.com Characterised by an ethos of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;adventureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;localâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;naturalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, the Stag & Bull range of biltong includes Hindâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Original venison, Heiferâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Original beef and Knock Your Bullocks Off spicy beef, along with a seasonal wild venison & slow gin biltong. After originally selling online from his New Forest base, founder Andy Revell progressed to farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets and country shows this summer and is now looking for trade outlets.

STONEHOUSE SMOKERY stonehousesmokery.co.uk Focused on sustainability and ethical farming practices, Stonehouse Smokery uses only locally sourced meat from animals that have led a natural life. It processes pork from its herd of free-range Tamworth and Saddleback pigs, Herdwick and Swaledale lamb and mutton from the familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lake District based hill farm, and hardy breeds of highland cattle which can spend all year grazing the Cumbrian fells.

SUFFOLK SALAMI suffolksalami.co.uk With time-poor cooks in mind, Suffolk Salami has developed a diced farmhouse cooking chorizo that can be prepared in minutes and added to GLVKHVVXFKDVSDVWDĆ&#x201C;VKRU a frittata. Based on the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s air-dried chorizo, it uses Pimenton de la Vera paprika, herbs and spices for â&#x20AC;&#x153;a ZRQGHUIXOGHSWKRIĹ´DYRXUĹ? Made from Freedom Food pork, outdoor bred DQGUHDUHGDQGĆ&#x201C;QLVKHGLQ open straw yards on the Whitehead family farm, the diced chorizo comes in 100g retail packs, RRP ÂŁ2.25, and 400g catering trays.

TEMPUS FOODS tempusfoods.com Featured in depth on page 4 of The Cure, Tempus Foods is the muchanticipated new high-end charcuterie venture from BBC MasterChef pals Dhruv Baker and Tom Whitaker. The Surrey-based business is offering a full range of Continental style meats and cured sausages created from heritage breed Large Black pigs and aged dairy cull cattle. Products include the air-dried King Peter ham, spiced coppa, spiced loin and jowl (guanciale).

TENUTA MARMORELLE tenutamarmorelle.com Cured meats are among a wide choice of Italian products imported by Tenuta Marmorelle from top artisan producers. Its hams and salamis come from family-owned Salumi Villani, based near Modena, and range from Parma ham to mortadella and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nduja, along with sliced mixed antipasti. Causing a stir this year has been Villaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Prosciutto Crudo infused with WUXIĹ´HH[FOXVLYHWR7HQXWD Marmorelle in the UK. Villani takes 16-month-aged hams, debones them, places a mix RIIUHVKEODFNWUXIĹ´HVLQWKH centre then closes the ham again to continue curing.

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Since winning the 2017 Golden Fork award, Hugh and family launched The Smokin’ Butcher brand and started to develop an entire range of smoked products to go alongside his award winning smoked black pudding. Under the new range, Hugh his son Hugh Junior are producing and growing an unique selection of smoked puddings expanding their shelf presence in the Irish and the UK markets, with new flavour combinations and variations of their award winning smoked black pudding. Hugh has also launched a new website, signed off on their new packaging designs and transformed his 15 year old butcher shop, in Ashbourne Co.Meath, into a meat lover’s haven so now, both store and website gained an entirely different look in order to make his new The Smokin’ Butcher brand feel more at home.

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS THE CAMBRIDGE BILTONG CO cambridgebiltong company.co.uk Committed to using meat only from British rare and native breed cattle, The Cambridge Biltong Co says it’s “firing up taste buds” with its new flavour-packed brand. Two preservative-free variants – a mellow Classic Black Pepper and lively Spicy Chilli – are currently available in 32g pouches or whole unsliced pieces from the firm, which is based at Granchester, near Cambridge.

THE CRESS CO thecressco.co.uk Distributor The Cress Co has developed a wide portfolio of British and Continental charcuterie to offer a onestop-shop for retailers. Products include Charles Macleod black and white puddings, Three Little Pigs chorizo and salami, Woodall’s air dried hams and salami, Rannoch Smokery smoked meat and game, Patchwork chicken and game patés, along with Great Glen Charcuterie, Mackenzies Yorkshire Smokehouse and more. Continental selections include Casademont chorizo, Brindisa cooking chorizo and Golfera mortadella and prosciutto.

THE CURE CHARCUTERIE thecurecharcuterie.co.uk Yorkshire wholesaler The Cure specialises in supplying craft bar snacks, tapas, meze and grazingboard ingredients to independent food and drink outlets across the north of England. It carries high-end products from artisan producers and quality importers, and also sells direct to the public at events and online.

THE LAMB CHARCUTERIE CO thelambcharcuterie company.co.uk The breed may originate from the Lake District, but it’s the flatlands of East Anglia that are home to Victoria Lea’s flock of Herdwick sheep. Lea brought the sheep to Suffolk two years ago and initially sold their meat fresh at markets and food fairs. Now she has teamed up with Norfolk’s Marsh Pig to develop a five-strong range of cured sausages, including a lightly smoked mint salami and a spicy lamb chorizo.

THE NEW ENGLAND BOAR CO thenewenglandboar company.co.uk Situated on the Essex/ Suffolk border, this producer breeds and raises its own free-range wild boar. In 18 months of life, the pure-bred animals forage in their own woodland, giving their meat a rich, nutty flavour. The charcuterie range comprises a garlic & black pepper salami inspired by the abundance of wild garlic growing in the woodland, a beech-smoked chorizo, rich dark coppa and a more delicately flavoured lomo.

THE OJOS FOODS theojosfoods.com Black garlic chorizo and Cecina de Leon (cured beef) are among the Spanish speciality meats imported by The Ojos Foods, a family-run business with 30 years experience of artisan charcuterie. Alongside familiar pork products such as lomo and Gran Reserva jamon Serrano it also offers a premium beef range including chorizo and salami to cater for the Halal consumer. The Cecina de Leon is available in both 12-month and 18-month age profiles.

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THE FRUIT PIG fruitpigcompany.com East Anglian wholesale butchery The Fruit Pig Co is gaining a national reputation among chefs, delis and retail butchers for its fresh blood black puddings to some of the finest chefs, delis and butchers. As qualified slaughtermen, they are able to control the whole manufacturing process. They work in local abattoirs harvesting blood from outdoor pigs and add only British free-range pork fat to their recipe. The Fruit Pig Co also supplies speciality bacons such as guanciale, collar bacon and mutton bacon.

THE REAL BOAR CO therealboar.co.uk The Real Boar Company has joined forces with local firm The Cotswold Curer to develop a range of fullflavoured charcuterie made from European wild boar as well as animals reared on its own farm. The product line-up offers some combinations unfamiliar in the UK, like wild boar & black truffle salami and wild boar & sloe gin salami. For the gift food market it also offers ‘boar cigars’ – mixed flavour, Havana cigarshaped salamis, complete with band and waxed seal.

Salt and spice THE SALT PIG CURING CO saltpigcuring.co.uk Chef Ben Dulley launched his Chipping Norton-based cured meats business after several years experimenting with charcuterie-making as head chef at Cotswold dining pub The Kingham Plough. Now, as a full-time producer, he takes a chef’s taste-led approach to both his salamis and his whole muscle meats. He takes inspiration from classic Italian meats, but combines traditional methods with British ingredients such as Hook Norton beer and his local Pearson’s cider. “I’ve recently been playing around with a coppa flavoured with Cotswold Gin,” he says. “I’m always looking for a way to add some local interest – but only if it works.” Flavouring is naturally to the fore. Instead of taking off-the-shelf spice mixes from a butchery supplier he uses whole seeds, toasted and ground to order. He sources these from Fox’s Spices in Stratfordupon-Avon, whose owner, Andrew Pester, he describes “a complete spice geek like me – we’re on the same wavelength”. Pubs and restaurants are important clients for Dulley’s fledgling business, and ready-to-serve charcuterie board packs are proving popular in that market. “We provide four different products on a sheet of greaseproof, ready to be transferred to a board,”he says. “As a chef I know how kitchens work, and this is something a chef can easily give to the front-of-house staff to plate up.”

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of p To ith of w e rs ps idg ne ho rr in S e W the m K To

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A-Z OF SUPPLIERS THE WEALD SMOKERY wealdsmokery.co.uk An artisan smokehouse, using traditional brick kilns and smoking over local oak logs and chippings, The Weald Smokery is situated on the edge of Bedgebury Forest on the border of Kent and East Sussex. The producer has won many Great Taste awards for products such as its smoked duck, chicken and venison, and also markets a range of salamis and Parma and Serrano hams to the wholesale trade as well as from its smokery shop.

THREE LITTLE PIGS threelittlepigschorizo.co.uk Available through the main speciality trade distributors, Three Little Pigs salamis and chorizo, produced in East Yorkshire by Jon and Charlotte Clarkson, have EHQHĆ&#x201C;WHGIURPDSDFNDJLQJ update this year. They are also supported IRUWKHĆ&#x201C;UVWWLPHE\DIXOOVXLWH of matching point-of-sale materials, including shelf wobblers and info sheets. All Three Little Pigsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pork comes from traditional, responsibly-farmed rare breeds and with the range including snacking sticks, horseshoes, spreadable chorizo and chilled sliced products, there are price points to suit most buyers.

TREALY FARM CHARCUTERIE trealyfarm.com Set up 14 years ago, Trealy Farm Charcuterie claims to produce the largest, most diverse selection of artisan charcuterie in the UK, with over 30 air-dried, cured, cooked and hot-smoked lines. It uses free-range traditional breed British pork, Welsh PGI beef and lamb, and British wild venison, as well as British wild boar and duck. Products include air-dried hams, salamis, bresaolas, pastrami, bath chaps, sobrasada/nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;duja, pancetta, coppa, lomo and lardo. Many are now pressed and shaped to ensure a more even slice size and reduce waste.

WELSH JERKY CO welshjerky.com Just months on from its launch, Welsh Jerky Coâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SURGXFWVDUHDOUHDG\Ć&#x201C;QGLQJ their way onto the shelves of pubs and delis in Wales. 2ZHQ*ULIĆ&#x201C;WKVDQG Daniel Davies, co-founders of the Pembrokeshire company, believe their jerky is unique in being not just high-quality grass-fed beef but from 100% traceable Welsh cattle. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made with lean meat, trimmed of fat, cut into strips, marinated in natural ingredients and air dried for a â&#x20AC;&#x153;truly tasty healthy snackâ&#x20AC;?.

WENLOCK EDGE FARM wenlockedgefarm.co.uk Currently selling to restaurants, pubs, farm shops and delicatessens across the UK, Wenlock Edge Farm was started by farmer Peter Themans as a way to escape the price pressures of commodity pork production. Thanks to a Swiss grandmother, he had been brought up with air dried meats and was one of the Ć&#x201C;UVWSHRSOHWRSURGXFH British charcuterie. Today his range includes bresaola, pancetta, chorizo, speck and prosciutto hams, the latter aged for a minimum of 18 months in a specialist drying room.

WOODALLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Woodallscharcuterie.co.uk Woodallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has joined forces with River Cottage smoking and curing expert Steven Lamb to promote Woodallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and British Charcuterie generally at trade and consumer events throughout this year. This includes pairing Woodallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charcuterie with a range of drinks such as sherry, wine, beer and vodka to illustrate its versatility and ease of use. The producer has also made its snacking salamis available in a smaller, 40g pack format. Original, Spicy and Gin varieties are available across all three Ĺ´DYRXUSURĆ&#x201C;OHVLQEUDQGHG shelf-ready packaging.

WOODCOCK SMOKERY woodcocksmokery.com A former Great Taste Supreme Champion, Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Woodcock Smokery specialises in VPRNHGĆ&#x201C;VKIURPKDGGRFN and pollock to salmon and tuna. It only uses wild, not IDUPHGĆ&#x201C;VKĹ&#x160;PRVWQRWDEO\ its wild sea-caught salmon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and deploys traditional cures and smoking methods IRUDEDODQFHGĹ´DYRXU Closely allied to Slow Food, its Co Cork smokery is a centre of learning for other artisan producers. Woodcock won the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;craftâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; section of 2018â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Euro-Toques awards, which celebrate and help preserve the best Irish artisan foods.

WOZA BILTONG eatwoza.com Woza Biltong & Charcuterie makes premium airdried beef and venison charcuterie from British ingredients, inspired by the unique cured meats of South Africa. Its diverse range of â&#x20AC;&#x153;soft and moistâ&#x20AC;? British biltong, with no added sugar, includes the classic Original Beef and Peri Peri as well as the more unusual Cape Cinnamon and Wild Venison Ĺ´DYRXUV It offers biltong sliced in attractive ready-to-go snack packs or as whole pieces to be sliced to order in store or for charcuterie plates.

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The road to Picanha UMMERA SMOKED PRODUCTS ummera.com Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 30 years since Anthony Cresswellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s IDWKHUHVWDEOLVKHGKLVĆ&#x201C;UVW smokehouse near the Argideen river in West Cork, the heartland of Irish artisan food production. The business, Ummera Smoked Products, moved to a custom-built smokehouse at nearby Timoleague at the turn of the Millennium, and has now built an international clientele for a range that includes salmon Ĺ&#x160;DOORILWFHUWLĆ&#x201C;HGRUJDQLF â&#x20AC;&#x201C; together with gravadlax, chicken, duck and bacon. Ummera has numerous awards to its name, and 2016 saw it win Best New Product at Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s National Organic Awards for the innovative smoked organic picanha beef â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a product developed at the suggestion of Co Limerick restaurateur Dermot Gannon. Picanha is the name given to the rump cap in Brazil, where it is regarded DVWKHĆ&#x201C;QHVWSULPHFXW Ummeraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s organic Aberdeen Angus product is seasoned and marinaded using Costa Rican sugar, Algarve salt and mix of rosemary, thyme and bay leaves, before being hotsmoked over oak for two hours to deliver a â&#x20AC;&#x153;peak culinary experienceâ&#x20AC;?. The picanha beef is available in whole pieces weighing 1kg-1.5kg or 500g portions.

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New Total View Stagionelloâ&#x201E;¢ A patented showcase for salami drying and seasoning Offering diversity for producers who are interested in charcuterie Dry curing of meat Salami or Chorizo production

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Now appointed by Toshiba ;,*HZHUVMÃ&#x201E;JPHSYLZLSSLY MVY[OLPY(WSL_WYPU[HUK HWWS`Z`Z[LT *HSS[VKH`MVYOLSWM\SL_WLY[ HK]PJLVUJVZ[LMMLJ[P]L THU\HSZLTPHUKM\SS` H\[VTH[PJSHILSSPUN Norpak Ltd, 3 Mitre Court, Cutler Heights Lane, Bradford. W. Yorks., BD4 9JY Tel: 01274 681022. Enquiries to info@norpakltd.com www.norpakltd.com

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PRODUCER PROFILE field. Some of Artigian Quality’s supply is also certified organic, enabling the family to be the first to produce organic Bologna mortadella. And this mortadella is no repository for anonymous off-cuts - it’s made with just the shoulder, leg and cheek. First the meat is cleaned

Sweet porky taste, further layers of flavour from the spicing, with gentle heat from the pepper and mace” Most factory-made, mass-market mortadella is mere Spam compared to the traditional version of this smooth, fat-speckled cooked sausage, exemplified by Bologna’s Artigian Quality Interview by SALLY MORGAN

Tracing the true mortadella IT’S ONE OF ITALY’S most popular salume and sold by many delis, so on a visit to the gloriously foodie city of Bologna I was determined to track down an authentic mortadella. My guide was Giancarlo Russo, co-author of Salumi d’Italia. Incredibly dismissive of commercially-produced mortadella, he took me to see the production of the real thing. Mortadella Di Bologna was once considered a noble food. In 1650 it was nine times more expensive than bread. Until 1750 it could only be made in the city of Bologna and its production restricted to artisans of the Salaroli Guild. Since then, it has become far more available. The origins of the name are unclear but it may be linked with mortario, or mortar, as the meat is finely ground. The product has changed too. Once served raw, it is now cooked, and in A SUPPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD DIGEST

the 16th century all sorts of meat, including beef and horse, could be used, along with Parmigiano cheese. Sadly, most mortadella sold on deli counters, both here and in Italy comes from volume outfits that produce thousands of kilos a day, often using shortcuts that upset the purists. They contain milk, colouring agents and other additives, plus meat by-products. But there are no such short cuts at Artigian Quality, where the Scapin family has been handcrafting mortadella for more than 30 years. Simona Scapin explained it was essential to start with quality meat. Artigian Quality sources pork from local farms where the pigs are free-range for much of the year – which is unusual, as most pork used in this region comes from barn-raised animals that have never seen a

up (no gristle, skin or glands) and frozen to -15°C to protect it as it passes through the very fine plate of the mincer to produce a paste. In mass-market production meat, emulsified with the fat (like hot dogs), destroying its structure. The fat and the meat paste are mixed together with salt, black pepper, mace and just a few other spices. After all, says Scapin, why would you over-season the meat with herbs and flavourings, masking the taste of the pork, unless your meat comes from barn-reared animals and is devoid of flavour anyway? Water is also added to stop the mass of meat protein from splitting during cooking, but this evaporates in the oven. Then the meat is ready for the stuffer. Mortadellas come in various weights, from a mere 1kg to a massive 13kg. The meat is stuffed into a natural ox bladder to form an oversized sausage, then trussed using natural string. Finally, the mortadella is cooked in the oven at 80°C until the core temperature reaches 75°C. Then it’s into a chiller for a further 24 hours before vac-packing and sale. It can be hard to tell an artisan product from mainstream luncheon meat by sight alone, so Simona set us a taste test. We had two mortadellas to sample, one made by the Scapins and another by a very good commercial factory. Visually, the two were similar, with pale meat and a good distribution of small cubes of fat. But the smell, taste and texture of the artisan product was impossible to miss: a sweet porky taste, further layers of flavour from the spicing, and finishing with gentle heat from the pepper and mace. The difference is all on the palate. artigianquality.com THE CURE 2018-19

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PROMOTIONAL RECIPES

Turn your shoppers into chefs As part of our ongoing industry-sponsored Sell More Charcuterie campaign, we asked TV chef Peter Sidwell to create four online recipe videos to inspire your shoppers

There’s no better way to get deli and farm shop customers buying more charcuterie than to inspire them with simple but tasty recipes. So we asked chef Peter Sidwell of recipe channel Simply Good Food TV to come up with four easy dishes that you can share with customers in store, via your newsletters and social media or in your own deli-restaurant. All you need to do to share the recipes is visit the YouTube link below and subscribe to the Guild of Fine Food’s channel. (this ensures you don’t miss any of our content). You can then copy the link and add it to Facebook, Twitter or your newsletter. \RXWXEHFRPXVHUƓQHIRRGLHV

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PROMOTIONAL RECIPES Bresaola Crostini

Chorizo with black pudding

So simple to make, but so pretty on the plate

Black pudding gives extra richness to this warming and spicy supper

INGREDIENTS 1 large ciabatta loaf 1 red onion Sea salt 2-3 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp whole grain mustard 1/2 tsp honey 50ml olive oil 4-6 tomatoes mixed 3-4 handfuls of watercress or rocket 10-12 slices of bresaola 20g pecorino cheese grated Salt and pepper for seasoning.

HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HOW: Cut the ciabatta bread long ways and toast with a few drops of olive oil under a grill. Meanwhile slice the red onions, season with a little salt and mix. Add the onions to the red wine vinegar and squeeze together to give a light pickle to the onions. Lift the onions out of the vinegar and leave to one side while you make the salad.

Add the whole grain mustard to the vinegar, honey and olive oil to create a dressing. Whisk together and season with salt and pepper to your taste. Cut the tomatoes up into slices and chunks, then give them a little squeeze before adding to the dressing. This will help remove H[FHVVZDWHUIRUPD[LPXPĹ´DYRXU Add the pickled red onions and mix together. Add the watercress or rocket to the top of the salad and leave (donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mix together yet). Rub the ciabattaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cut side with a little garlic if you fancy it, then mix together the salad and heap on top of the bread.

INGREDIENTS

Add a chopped red onion.

150g chorizo 1 clove of garlic chopped 1 red chilli chopped 1 red onion 150g black pudding 1 medium red onion 150ml of red wine 2-3 tbsp sour cream 1 handful of fresh coriander 10g of dark chocolate Tomatoes: 4 large and 8 small

Chop the black pudding into chunks and add to the pan to help richen and thicken as it cooks.

HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HOW: Dice the chorizo into 1cm slices and place in a preheated pan. Pour in a drizzle of olive oil.

Chop the tomatoes and place in the pan too. Add chopped coriander stalks and pour in the red wine. Simmer for 20 minutes until the sauce thickens. Add dark chocolate and stir. Serve with sour cream, fresh coriander and crusty bread.

Add the garlic and chilli to the pan.

Peel the bresaola apart and place around the salad on top, underneath or anywhere you like! )LQDOO\Ć&#x201C;QLVKZLWKJUDWHGSHFRULQR cheese and serve.

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ENHANCED DEEPER FLAVOUR Incredibly deep flavour profiles in your dry-aged meat only attainable through salt-ageing.

Quote THE C when o URE rd to rece ering iv your 5 e % discou nt

To find out more visit our page below or give us an email or call www.saltan.co.uk/butchers info@saltan.co.uk 02380 572526 46

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PROMOTIONAL RECIPES Rarebit with Crispy Air-Dried Ham A simple but delicious twist on a traditional rarebit, with oven-crisped British air-dried ham adding a spike of saltiness to the creamy cheddar and mustard topping.

INGREDIENTS (QJOLVKRYHQERWWRPPXIĆ&#x201C;QV 1 tbsp of Dijon-style mustard 2 tbsp of sour cream 1 egg yolk 1 bunch of spring onions chopped 250g grated mature cheddar cheese 8 slices of cured ham 1 tsp of oil Black pepper for seasoning 1 red onion sliced and soaked overnight in red white vinegar

Add the grated cheese and chopped spring onions, then mix together to create a spreadable paste. Season with pepper. Spread the cheese mixture onto WKHWRDVWHGVLGHRIWKHPXIĆ&#x201C;QV Sit half a slice of ham on top of HDFKPXIĆ&#x201C;QWKHQEUXVKDWLQ\ELW of oil onto the ham to help it crisp up.

HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HOW:

Bake in the oven at 200°c for 8 minutes until the cheese has melted and the cured ham is nice and crispy.

&XWWKHPXIĆ&#x201C;QVLQKDOIDQGOLJKWO\ toast under the grill.

Try serving them with some simple slices of pickled red onion.

Place the mustard, sour cream and egg yolk into a large mixing bowl.

Egg & Chorizo Hash Does anyone need help cooking an egg? Yes! Pass on Peterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tips for the perfect poach with the video for this indulgent supper.

INGREDIENTS 100g sourdough bread, broken into chunks 150g chorizo 10ml olive oil 1 clove of garlic, chopped 1/2 a red chilli, chopped 1/2 tsp of smoked paprika 20g butter 1 bunch of spring onions, chopped 50g edamame beans (or cooked peas) 4 fresh free-range eggs 2 tbsp red wine vinegar Coriander to garnish

Add a roughly chopped clove of garlic and the chopped chilli. Add the smoked paprika and butter to the pan to bring all the ingredients together and create a dressing in the pan. Add the baked croutons and stir together in the pan, continue to cook for 5 minutes. Poach the eggs in a pan of water that is gently simmering.

HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HOW:

Pour in a splash of red wine vinegar into the pan to create a dressing.

Tear up the bread into random chunks and bake in the oven for 10 minutes to dry out a little.

Add the edamame beans and spring onions and coriander to garnish.

Meanwhile, cut the chorizo into chunks. Place in a preheated frying pan with a little oil and start to fry off to release the fats and WKHĹ´DYRXU

Serve the chorizo in with the poached eggs and a sprinkle of freshly chopped coriander.

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ZZZ¿VKHYHUFRXN 0118 9238767 46

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Profile for Guild of Fine Food

The Cure 2018-19  

The Cure 2018-19