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Earthy’s Pete Jackson tells us: ‘If you've got a niche, people will support you’

Yorkshire’s Iona Hill on being the 'other’ maker of Hawes Wensleydale

NIGEL COPE 14 ‘I’m going to keep going as long as I can,’ says the Cottage Delight boss

November-December 2012 · Vol 13 Issue 10

Earthy pleasures How an Edinburgh store chain is making organics sexy again CHEF’S SELECTION 51 River Cottage HQ’s Gill Meller chooses Fish4Ever anchovies, Julian Temperley cider brandy and Capreolus cold-smoked venison

SHOW PREVIEW 43 Find out what’s new for 2013 at Glasgow’s annual speciality food show


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THE LAUNCH GALLERY provides you with first view of exciting newcomers and their products before anyone else has seen them.

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In addition free access to Scotland’s Trade Fair to source exciting gift items to complement your stock. To register for your free visitor badge, see a full list of exhibitors or for further information please visit: Scotland’s Speciality Food Show is organised by Springboard Events Ltd on behalf of Clarion Events Ltd. Email:

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What’s new this month:


desks and forced to check their facts thoroughly before they screw up any more small businesses. And when they get it wrong, which they do with disastrous BOB FARRAND regularity, they should be fired and not quietly shifted to another department where they can screw something else up. I’ve just had a 30-minute phone Mr Kevin Gosling is head of conversation with a researcher health protection at Winchester from the Department of Business, Council and advises EHOs on new Innovation and Skills. She was procedures. Acting on his advice, enquiring into the time our industry EHOs have been pressing deli and wastes complying with Government farm shop owners to segregate regulations. pasteurised and unpasteurised I used the opportunity for a rant milk cheeses by installing screens as, moments before she’d called, inside counters and to use separate I’d been reading this month’s news cutting utensils. pages. Following a report published These new regulations suggest by the Food Standards Agency there are inherent dangers in eating (FSA) last February on the dangers unpasteurised milk of E. coli 0157 cheese, which in food, local It really is about there aren’t, and environmental time the food police will lead to the health officers were sat down and inevitable calls, have gone forth mostly from into the cheese forced to check their the food police, community to facts thoroughly for them to be wreak havoc. before they screw banned. Over the past According to few months, we’d up any more small Mr Gosling, the heard rumours at businesses wording in the the Guild about FSA report “is confusing”. It isn’t EHOs forcing delis and farm shops - read it again. It states: “raw milk to install separate counter areas and and raw milk products supplied use different cutting equipment for to a food business should always pasteurised and unpasteurised milk be treated as a potential source of cheeses. We’d put it down to a few contamination [for E. coli] unless over-zealous officers who’d just got supplied as ready-to-eat.” it wrong but, as our report on page You appear to have missed the 4 reveals, this is now recommended word ‘unless’ Mr Gosling, and I procedure. think you’ll find most cheeses are E. coli is not nice. No one wants ready to eat. They’ll probably move it, nor would they want to pass it you into the highways department on by selling infected food – least of next week. all to children, who are particularly vulnerable. But it really is about time Bob Farrand is publisher of Fine Food the food police, and pretty well Digest and chairman of the Guild of everyone else in the public sector, Fine Food were sat down, chained to their






EDITORIAL Editor: Mick Whitworth Assistant editor: Michael Lane News editor: Patrick McGuigan Art director: Mark Windsor Editorial production: Richard Charnley Contributors: Lynda Searby, Clare Hargreaves

ADVERTISING Sales manager: Sally Coley Advertisement sales: Becky Stacey, Gavin Weeks Published by Great Taste Publications Ltd and the Guild of Fine Food Ltd Chairman/FFD publisher: Bob Farrand Managing director/associate publisher: John Farrand Director/membership secretary: Linda Farrand Marketing & circulation manager: Tortie Farrand Administrators: Charlie Westcar, Julie Coates, Karen Price Accounts: Stephen Guppy, Denise Ballance

GENERAL ENQUIRIES Tel: 01963 824464 Fax: 01963 824651 Guild of Fine Food, Guild House, Station Road, Wincanton, Somerset BA9 9FE UK Fine Food Digest is published 11 times a year and is available on subscription for £43pa inclusive of post and packing. Printed by: Advent Colour, Hants, UK © Great Taste Publications Ltd and The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2012. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations.

Cover image of Earthy in Edinburgh by Esther Halcrow.

p47 p50


Editor’s choice

Selected by Mick Whitworth

Potash Farm chocolate-coated Kentish cobnuts

Years ago, I got embroiled in a spat with the farming community via the letters pages of the magazine on which I worked. In one side-swipe, a financially-stretched dairy farmer remarked that, judging from my byline photo, I had very little experience of going hungry. At that time my bloated appearance was down to single malt whisky, but if Potash Farm’s Kentish cobnuts coated in Ecuadorian chocolate had been available then, things could have been much worse. Having said that, Kentish cobnuts are in limited supply, so these are intrinsically calorie controlled, aren't they?

p51 Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


fine food news River Cottage is among retailers having second thoughts about stocking unpasteurised cheeses

Delis hit by mix-up over raw milk cheese rules By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Delis and cheese shops are coming under pressure from Environmental Health Officers to segregate raw milk and pasteurised cheeses in their shops because of confusing guidelines on preventing the spread of E.coli. Retailers in different parts of the country have told FFD their EHOs have asked them to divide their counters and use separate cutters and boards as they implement new guidance on E.coli 0157, issued by the Food Standards Agency (FSA) last year. The most high profile involves the River Cottage Canteen & Deli, set up by celebrity chef Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall, which FFD understands has now stopped stocking raw milk cheeses altogether at its Axminster and Plymouth stores after taking advice from its EHO. Cumbria-based cheesemaker Martin Gott also came under pressure from his EHO to divide the cheeses in his shop in Cartmel last year, but successfully argued against the idea. “We keep our soft cheeses separately on the counter because they are classed as high risk cheeses,” he told FFD. “A pasteurised soft cheese is a higher risk than a two-year-old unpasteurised hard cheese, but they still wanted us to divide between pasteurised and unpasteurised. “In the end I just said ‘no’ and told them to check with the Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association. Luckily they didn’t come back.” Cheesemonger George Mewes in Glasgow has also been asked to introduce separate colour-coded boards, knives and cutters for raw and pasteurised cheeses, while at Turnbulls Deli in Shaftesbury, owner Charlie Turnbull – a trainer on Guild of Fine Food retail courses – is still arguing his case. “Their view is generally that the risk could be potentially a big threat to health, equating it to the risk of storing cooked and uncooked meats together,” he said. “The parallel is absurd. It’s not practical for any small counter, it’s not necessary and it’s not even good science. The effect is to make small cheesemongers go either all pasteurised or all unpasteurised.” EHOs are basing their advice on a new document, E.coli O571: Control of Cross Contamination, which was introduced after E.coli outbreaks linked to cross contamination between cooked and raw meat in butchers’ shops. A section on raw


‘Guidance’ that leads EHOs astray The confusion surrounding how delis should handle unpasteurised cheeses stems from this section on raw milk in the FSA’s new official guidance: “Raw, unpasteurised milk, as well as products made from unpasteurised milk have been implicated in E. coli O157 infection. Therefore, raw milk and raw milk products supplied to a food business should always be treated as a potential source of contamination unless supplied as ready-to-eat. Cheese manufactured from unpasteurised milk and supplied as a ready-to-eat product should be treated accordingly.”

Cumbria’s Martin Gott said a firm ‘no’ when asked to seperate raw and pasteurised cheeses

Why Booth’s is happy with the great divide While high street delis are locked in discussions with their EHOs over how to segregate their cheese counters, premium supermarket chain Booths has no such problems. The retailer has separate areas for pasteurised and raw milk cheeses as standard on all its counters, as well as separate boards and knives. The company has around 29 stores across the North West, each of which stocks around 100 cheeses including raw milk products such as Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire and unpasteurised Wensleydale. Adam Whalley, Booths’ chilled buying manager, said it separated its cheeses to “ensure adequate controls are in place to manage risks associated with unpasteurised cheeses”. However, Cumbria-based cheesemaker and retailer Martin Gott said the practice made life more difficult for independents. “It’s gold plating. They go so far over and above what’s necessary that EHOs think that’s the norm. [Booths] have taken it to an extreme and that then becomes the benchmark which others are judged against.”

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

milk in the document (see box), which is not worded clearly, is leading to confusion among EHOs. Kevin Gosling, who is head of health protection at Winchester Council and heads up the national Food Hygiene Focus Group, told FFD he advises his team of inspectors to ask retailers to separate raw and pasteurised cheeses in their counters by using a screen, and to make sure they use separate tools and cutting boards. “I think this [advice] will come more and more as the message filters down,” he said. However, he admitted the wording of the guidance was not clear. “It is confusing and I will need to speak with the FSA on this. It leads to ambiguity,” he said. Clare Cheney, chief executive of the Specialist Cheesemakers’ Association, said she would also be seeking clarification from the FSA. “Unpasteurised cheese is as safe to eat as pasteurised. The SCA believes the wording of this document is unclear and needs to be addressed if EHOs are interpreting it incorrectly.” FFD contacted the FSA directly and was told retailers do not need separate counters or tools for raw milk cheese. A spokesperson said it would look at making the information about raw cheese more explicit when it updates the current guidance. “In the meantime, we will raise the issue directly with EHOs at training events and at regional meetings with local authorities, to ensure there is a consistent approach during inspection visits,” she said. • See Opinion, p3. Follow us on


PGI for Newmarket sausage baffles Lincs producers

IN BRIEF l North Norfolk’s Creake Abbey has started work on a new café and food hall in conjunction with Le Marché du Quartier, a French food and wine specialist based at Borough Market. The new outlet will open next spring in a restored barn, stocking local, national and international produce. Creake Abbey is home to an awardwinning farmers’ market, shops and studios, as well as the ruins of an Augustinian abbey founded in 1206.


The Lincolnshire Sausage Association says that the decision to award the Newmarket sausage protected food status when its application has been rejected by Defra “makes a nonsense of the whole system”. The little-known Newmarket sausage, which is made by two butchers in Suffolk, became the 50th Protected Food Name in the UK last month after it was awarded Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status . The news came just a few days after the Lincolnshire Sausage Association (LSA) lost an appeal over Defra’s decision to reject its application for protected status. Despite submitting new evidence, including a survey of 10,000 people showing 99% agreed that Lincolnshire sausages should be made in the county, the LSA’s application was rejected because Defra said it did not “demonstrate an ongoing link” between the product and the county of Lincolnshire. Janet Godfrey, chair of the of the LSA, told FFD: “I think the whole system stinks. The reason Newmarket sausages gained approval is because they are not made on a commercial scale, so nobody objected. The only real difference was that we had financially powerful objectors.” Godfrey was referring to the British Retail Consortium and several sausage manufacturers based outside Lincolnshire, who objected to the LSA’s original application. These included Walkers Midshire – a subsidiary of Samworth Brothers, which previously backed successful

l Suffolk food producer Stark Naked Food has been fined for making false claims about the ingredients used in its pesto. The company said its products contained extra virgin olive oil, Grana Padano, and ‘locally grown’ basil. However, trading standards officers found that they were made with sunflower oil, cheese from Latvia and basil from Israel. The firm was fined £23,500 and ordered to pay £5,000 in court costs.

l Wholesaler Batchelors Local Foods, which supplies delis and restaurants in Kent and Sussex, has launched a home delivery service for the general public. Consumers can order products online, such as Taywells ice creams, Kentish Mayde pies and Ouse Valley preserves with a minimum order value of £35 and free delivery.

l Windsor Farm Shop, based in

Janet Godfrey, pictured with Lincolnshire Sausage Association member Jim Sutcliffe of Meridan Meats, says they faced ‘financially powerful objectors’

the grounds of Windsor Castle, has submitted proposals to build an extension and to hold entertainment events, such as plays and live music.

l Bowel Cancer UK’s logo will applications for Melton Mowbray Pork Pies and Cornish Pasties. “It’s great that Newmarket sausages have won approval, but it just makes a nonsense of the whole system,” said Godfrey. “We want approval because

people making Lincolnshire Sausages outside the county don’t use the right recipe. A Lincolnshire sausage should be made with coarse ground pork and sage, but outside the county we’ve seen all sorts of strange ingredients like garlic.”

appear on all of the newly repackaged Sharpham Park range of spelt products, including its flours and bran flakes. The producer has teamed up with the charity in the run-up to National Bowel Cancer Awareness Month in April 2013.

l William Jackson Food Group, CHEESY GRINS: Carlo Canale of the Grana Padano producers’ consortium (far left) banters with Turnbulls Deli owner Charlie Turnbull during a cheese and wine event held at London’s Vino & Vino in November. Attendees had the chance to try three vintages of Grana Padano (aged for 9, 16, and 24 months) as well as Quickes hard goats’ cheese and raw milk cheddar; Isigny St Mere’s Camembert Medaillon and Mimolette extra mature 16 months; and Gorwyyd Caerphilly. Guests were also treated to a cheese judging masterclass from Turnbull, who is on the 2012 World Cheese Award’s supreme judging panel. The event was hosted jointly by the Guild of Fine Food and the Grana Padano consortium.

owner of the Aunt Bessie’s brand, has bought veg box supplier Abel and Cole for an undisclosed sum. Meanwhile, Tesco has re-entered the organic veg box market. The retailer now offers Soil & Seed branded boxes through its website.

l Town Mill Cheesemonger in Lyme Regis has been named the best speciality retailer in the West, while Devon’s Darts Farm took the gong for best farm shop at the inaugural South West Flavour Awards, run by Taste of the West.

For regular news updates from FFD visit:

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


fine food news FoodLovers Britain closes as Green fails to find buyer Regional food campaigner and journalist Henrietta Green has been forced to close down FoodLovers Britain after failing to find backers or a buyer for the business. The company promoted small artisan food producers and retailers, who paid an annual membership to be part of the scheme and had to be meet certain standards to become ‘FoodLovers Approved’. In an email sent to members last month, Green said the decision was “a huge personal wrench”, but she had no alternative. “After trying my hardest over several months by actively seeking investment and/or a suitable buyer, I can no longer avoid such an action as I cannot afford to carry on supporting the business – believe me if there was any other course of action open to me, I would take it.” Green has applied to have the

company struck off the company register but said she did not have sufficient funds to wind it down officially. She added that contracts would be honoured for those members who were booked into FoodLovers Approved areas at fairs and exhibitions. FoodLovers Britain first began

with a guidebook to Britain’s best food producers by Henrietta Green, published in 1987. She went on to launch several FoodLovers markets, including one at Borough Market, which was taken as model for the weekly market that is held there now. A FoodLovers market was also launched in Soho in 2010.

Time to eat, drink and be deli A specialist off-licence and delicatessen celebrated its 10th anniversary last month with an exclusive tipple – a limited edition beer brewed especially to mark the occasion. Louise and Doug Smith, owners of the Jug & Bottle in Bubwith, Yorkshire, teamed up with the Brown Cow Brewery in Barlow to make just 250 bottles of the 10th Anniversary Ale, which are all numbered by hand. The pale ale was launched at the Bubwith Beer Festival with every

10th customer at the store receiving a £10 voucher for the Jug & Bottle on the shop’s birthday. Louise Smith said: “It has obviously been tough in the current economic climate to keep going, but we are committed to offering the best possible range of products as well as a high quality buying experience. “We have always strived to be different by stocking beers, wines and ciders that can’t be found in mainstream stores.”

Louise Smith: Striving to be different

If I'd known then what I know now...

in a book, which we then put on a spreadsheet. It really helps control costs and makes ordering easier. There were a few other mistakes in the beginning, especially when Kirsten Pratt Cicada Deli, Wotton-under-Edge we had enormous amounts of stock arriving in a short period of time. We realised we hadn't actually marked up a few products, so were essentially important little things that got lost I was a solicitor for 10 years working selling them at the wholesale price. when we first set up. We were more with large and small businesses. I A little later we introduced a fresh focused on making sure people had always wished I was brave enough to fish service, where a really nice do something similar to my smaller, customers place an experience, more entrepreneurial clients. Then an We were more focused order, pay a deposit rather than the opportunity came up to take over the on making sure people and collect their fish nitty gritty. lease of a former hairdressers on the had a really nice the next day. One Recording high street. My partner, Joe Compton, how much we and I did some numbers and we experience, rather than of our staff thought the deposit was the throw away is decided to take the plunge. the nitty gritty complete payment, so something we I'm really glad we did it. We people got some very cheap fish for do much more now. We over-ordered celebrated our first anniversary in about three weeks! quite often at the start. Something October. It's sped past. It's better to We've also learned about hidden would sell really well because it was regret the things you have done than costs, like the amount of contributions new, so we would order a lot more, the things you haven't. to good causes we'd be asked for. but sales would then naturally slow. We wouldn't change much about There are several schools, and lots of Now we record every bit of waste our first year, but there were some


November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

DOING WHAT COMES NATURALLY: Bristol-based retailer the Better Food Company has upped the ante on turkey welfare standards by selling birds that are reared in a completely natural way on its own farm. The business says that unlike 99% of commercially reared birds, which undergo artificial insemination, its Norfolk Black turkeys are bred naturally, mating in the spring and producing fertile eggs that are hatched later in the season. “We haven’t been happy with the way the turkey industry has been developing over recent years, and as we’ve been unable to find a local, organic turkey farmer who could do it our way the only solution was to do it ourselves,” says MD Phil Haughton. “Our birds are happy and free. They live a full life to the last. We think that this system represents the highest animal welfare possible for any Christmas turkey. “

clubs and charities here so we often get asked for donations. We want to be part of the community and support good causes, but not to the detriment of the business. We were donating almost £1,000 a month and it was getting out of hand. So we've stopped saying yes to everyone, but we do support two charities a month. We’ve also discovered the importance of having a blackboard in the street outside. It makes such a difference in a small town, especially during the week when footfall is not that great. We change it all the time, highlighting new products or the fact that we do baguettes, and it really pulls up sales and attracts new customers. It's very basic marketing but really effective – the kind of thing you just don't know about when you first launch a business. Interview by PATRICK McGUIGAN

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Boyd quits Bodnant after ‘highly successful launch’


l Cambridgeshire-based premium crisp firm Corkers has constructed a new factory on its farm that will be able to turn out 300,000 bags of crisps a day. It is also now offering some of its flavours in 20g bags. l The Isle of Skye Brewery and the Isle of Arran Brewery have announced a merger that will create a £1.2m business. New holding company Arran Brewery plc will now look to raise over £10m to invest in production facilities, a bottling plant on the Scottish mainland and its own chain of pubs.

Sales at Bodnant Welsh Food centre are running 20% over target By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Sandy Boyd has resigned from his post as MD at the newly launched Bodnant Welsh Food centre after just a year in charge. Boyd set up the £6.5m centre after joining from the Ludlow Food Centre last year, but has now left to join Westley Consulting, which gives advice to farm shops and other agricultural businesses.

A spokesperson for Bodnant Welsh Food, in Conwy, north Wales, said: “Following the highly successful launch in the summer, the launch team has now handed over the day to day running of the business to the operational team. Sandy Boyd has offered his resignation from the launch project and parts with Bodnant Welsh Food amicably. The whole team would

like to thank Sandy for all his hard work and wish him well.” Chris Morton, a long-term director at Bodnant, will head up the business under the new post of operations director. The Bodnant spokesperson added that the opening months of trading at the shop had been higher than expected, with sales currently 20 per cent ahead of target.

Two new outlets for River Cottage chain Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall plans to expand his burgeoning River Cottage chain with new outlets in Bristol and Winchester. A River Cottage Canteen is due to open early next year in a 4,000 sq ft Grade 2-listed church building on Whiteladies Road in Bristol, while Winchester Council has agreed to lease a 5,000 sq ft former mill to River Cottage, subject to planning and licensing approvals. The first River Cottage Canteen and Deli opened in Axminster with a much larger operation in Plymouth launching at Royal William Yard in November 2011. The company says it will make a six-figure investment in the building for the new Bristol Canteen, which will offer seasonal, local, organic and wild food as part of a daily changing menu. Up to 90% of the food will be sourced from within a 50 mile radius of the town. Rob Greacen, MD of River Follow us on


With River Cottage outlets already in Axminster and Plymouth (left) Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall plans to add delis in Bristol and Winchester

Cottage Canteen & Deli, said: “We are excited about the opportunity at Bristol. It’s a fantastic building. The location is great, close to the Downs, but still part of the City and

it will be great to join a vibrant new community. We will look initially to create new jobs and to work with local food suppliers, to source and develop fantastic produce.”

l Staal Smokehouse was among the big winners at this year’s Deliciouslyorkshire Awards as the Long Riston-based firm was named Best Newcomer. It also took the Best Fish & Seafish category with its hot smoked salmon. St Helen’s Farm, which supplies its goats’ milk products to several supermarket chains, was named Supreme winner for its goats’ butter. l Yorkshire baker Just Desserts believes the Jubilee celebrations and the BBC’s Great British Bake Off are behind a significant rise in sales. The Shipley-based company has seen more than a 60% upsurge in sales of its cakes in the last three quarters. l Artisan soft drinks producer Gran Stead’s has signed a contract to supply Dutch kitchen shop and deli chain Dille & Kamille. The retailer has 21 stores across Belgium and the Netherlands. The Sussex-based firm, whose products include Dark & Mellow Ginger Wine, also supplies retailers in Estonia and Lithuania and says that 20% of its trade is now coming from exports. For regular news updates from FFD visit:

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


fine food news new openings

Opening or expanding a shop? Email details to

Farmers Fayre unveils biggest outlet yet

At a glance l A programme of live demonstrations led by high profile chefs will be held in the dedicated Cookery Theatre, which features an AGA cooker.

l Around 13,500 customers visit the new Leekes store each week with that number expected to rise to around 15,000 at Christmas.

l Producers supplying the farm shop include: Kitchen Garden Preserves, Wessex Flour Mill, Ludlow Nut Company, Sloe Motion, Chase Vodka, Welcombe Hills wine and Cham Cham sauces.

lB  ased in South Wales, Leekes is an independent, family owned company, which has been trading for over 100 years. As well as its standalone stores, it operates six concessions in independent and Wyevale garden centres. Farmers Fayre’s newest location houses more than 1,000 lines, a restaurant and a coffee shop By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Warwickshire-based Farmers Fayre has opened a 4,500 sq ft farm shop, restaurant and coffee shop in the new flagship Leekes department store just off the M6 in Coventry. The new £6m Leekes development, which includes 300 car parking spaces and 130,000 sq ft of retail space, is said to be the largest department store within a 50 mile radius. Farmers Fayre already runs two farm shops, in Kenilworth and Stoneleigh Park, and has a

successful online butchery business. But none of these is on the scale of the new Leekes concession, which includes a 2,500 sq ft retail area, a 92-cover restaurant and 40-seater coffee shop. “The extra space means we've got a much larger product range in the farm shop with over 1,000 lines from 70 local producers” said Nicola Reece, founder of Farmers Fayre, adding that many of these products are sourced with the help of Midlands food and drink specialist Heart Distribution.

“The first few weeks of trading have been really encouraging and we’re hoping to talk to Leekes about working with them in their other stores in the future.” Family-owned Leekes has other department stores in Wolverhampton and Wiltshire as well as three in South Wales. The new Farmers Fayre restaurant, located on the ground floor with a coffee shop on a mezzanine level, has an emphasis on value. All hot dishes cost £7 or under and use locally sourced

ingredients, while sandwiches start at £3 with customers able to choose their own fillings. Leekes MD Emma Leeke said: “For Coventry we had a set vision to work with a produce specialist from the local area who not only had a strong reputation for quality, but was able to offer a restaurant, coffee shop and farm shop. We wanted a ‘wow’ factor and are delighted that we are able to bring the Farmers Fayre experience to Leekes.”

Mediterranean Deli & Farm Shop Wistow, Leicestershire

Old Josie’s Deli

Blandford Forum, Dorset Turkish food producer Sefer Ustabas has expanded his business with a new farm shop and deli. Set up in partnership with his wife Trudie, the Mediterranean Deli & Farm Shop is based at Wistow Rural Centre in Leicestershire and sells British products, such as Mrs Darlington’s lemon curd and Brockleby’s pies, alongside Ustabas’ marinated olives, baklava and borek, which are made fresh on site each day. Ustabas began making traditional Turkish products in his home kitchen in 2009 using his mother’s recipes.


Holwood Farm Shop Keston, Kent

A former IT executive and his wife have opened a farm shop and deli after growing frustrated at not being able to find Kentish food and drink in the supermarkets. Holwood Farm Shop and Deli, which is located in a refurbished barn and houses a 30-seater café, was opened by Gary Mercer and Sarah Clout in Keston.

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

It stocks more than 20 cheeses from Kent and neighbouring counties, British charcuterie, fruit and vegetables from Taste of the Weald and free range meat from Monkshill farm. “We both love farm shops and farmers’ markets, but unless you are prepared to travel a significant distance you just cannot buy the fantastic products the region has to offer,” said Mercer.

This deli has opened as part of the Dorset town’s Greyhound pub. Founders Claire Watson and Dorian Ansell, who have relocated from London, make the most of Ansell’s experience as a chef, producing homemade terrines, patés, savouries, tarts and preserves. The couple, who also maintain a strong focus on locally sourced products, hope to eventually begin wholesaling their own products to other delis and local pubs. Current suppliers include Rowcliffes, Dorset Tea, the Dorset Charcuterie Co and the Fresh Olive Co.

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fine food news IN BRIEF l The World’s Original Marmalade Awards & Festival will return again to Cumbria’s Dalemain Estate in 2013. Entries covering a range of classes – including artisan, homemade and international – are now open for the competition, which takes place on March 2 and 3. As always, the overall winner will be listed at Fortnum and Mason. The closing date for submissions is February 17.

l A bookshop and café in St Boswells, in the Borders, unveiled its new deli and home store with the help of a top Scottish chef. Michelinstarred Tom Kitchin was on hand to cut the ribbon and sign copies of his books at Mainstreet Trading Company’s extension, which will also sell homewares.

l Preserves expert Vivien Lloyd took the top gong at Fortnum and Mason’s recent Chutney Challenge with her apricot & Seville orange chutney, which will now be stocked by the London retailer. The recipe is an adaptation of a recipe in Lloyd's book First Preserves.

David Edwards: cost of delivery is ‘a challenge’

STORNOWAY TO SHANGHAI: A cake and biscuit baker in the Outer Hebrides has begun exporting its award-winning products to China. Stag Bakeries, based in Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, has just despatched its first order for eight lines, including its Stornoway water biscuit, via air freight to Shanghai. The company already has distributors in the USA and Ireland and is in talks with potential buyers in Australasia and continental Europe. Owner Charles MacDonald said the latest development was “fantastic news for the local community to ensure longevity of jobs and the continued growth of Stag Bakeries”. Sales manager Jenny Burton is pictured with the first pallet for China, along with colleagues Jordan Knight (left) and Ted Bainbridge.

Welsh celebrate True Taste trophies – for the last time By MICK WHITWORTH

Pant Glas Bach Preserves, Claire’s Kitchen and Inner City Pickle topped the FFD-sponsored speciality food categories in the final Wales the True Taste Food & Drink Awards, held in Builth Wells in late October. Pant Glas Bach Preserves, based on a smallholding near Llanasa in Flintshire, took gold in the jams, marmalade & honey section for its blackcurrant & liquorice jam. Cardiff’s Inner City Pickle won the condiments, sauces & chutney section with its dried-fruit-andmustard Mostarda di Frutta, based on a Sardinian recipe. Claire’s Kitchen of Chepstow

in Monmouthshire, run by Claire Compton, also took a gold award with its lemon curd. In the past month the Welsh Government has confirmed that the True Taste programme, which has been generously funded since its launch a decade ago, is to end due to pressure on public spending. FFD understands True Taste name will not be used in any future promotions. However, speaking at the awards dinner, deputy food minister Alun Davies said he was committed to doing all he could to deliver a “thriving and sustainable food sector that is able to support and

sustain employment and prosperity across the whole of Wales”. “The Welsh Government will continue to provide significant commercial benefits to food sector businesses by enhancing their capacity to compete and achieve profitability,” he said. This year’s awards saw 830 entries from more than 250 producers. Among the other category winners were Trethowan’s Dairy, which won the small cheese producer section with its Gorwydd Caerphilly, and Trealy Farm Charcuterie, which took a gold in added-value meats with its Merguez salami with Welsh lamb.

Awards in the speciality food categories went to (from left) Eira Ellis-Evans of Inner City Pickle, Brian Horwich of Pant Glas Back Preserves and Claire Compton of Claire’s Kitchen. They were presented by John Farrand, managing director of the Guild of Fine Food and associate publisher of FFD, which sponsored the category.


November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

Wales seeks easier route for ‘exports’ to the UK By MICK WHITWORTH

The Welsh Government is backing moves to help the country’s small food producers get easier access to the rest of the UK through a consolidated delivery service. David Edwards of Total Food Marketing – Menter a Busnes, which provides business mentoring as part of the Welsh Government’s Trade Development Programme for SMEs, told FFD: “We’re at the very early stages of piloting a fine food consolidation service to help Welsh producers become more attractive to customers across the border.” Edwards said more English retailers would buy from smaller Welsh producers if they could do so on a one-invoice, one-delivery basis, similar to the services provided from the West Midlands by Heart Distribution and Heart of England Fine Foods. “At the Speciality & Fine Food Fair [at Olympia in September] retailers were saying, ‘We like this, this and this, but we don’t want to have to deal with three different producers. Is there anyone that can pull it all together?’” He stressed there was no question of the Welsh Government becoming involved in distribution. Its role was to “help producers collaborate, where possible, in finding more efficient ways of working and in some cases help to facilitate introductions to service providers”. Delivery has long been an issue for Welsh rural producers looking to ‘export’ to the rest of the UK. “Retailers will say, ‘I’d like three cases of this’, but then you add on the cost of delivery and it becomes more of a challenge.” totalfoodmarketing

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November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

fine food news Interview

He’s throwing himself into side-projects, but Cottage Delight’s chairman Nigel Cope tells MICHAEL LANE he’s still pondering where to take his core business next

Making plans for Nigel


alf way through lunch at his Leek HQ, Nigel Cope reaches for a bottle of Cottage Delight vinaigrette and aims it at his salad. Despite a firm pat, it’s not as forthcoming as the company’s founder and chairman would like. “That’ll be on my agenda for the next meeting,” he says. “Why can’t I get that out of the bottle?” You would be forgiven for thinking that, at 64, Cope might take more of a back seat at the firm he has grown into a £12m business. Yet, even after collecting a Lifetime Achievement Award at September’s Great Taste awards ceremony, he appears to have the same fire that led him to quit a plum job at Unilever in 1974 and start making fudge in his home kitchen. Core to the original Cottage Delight ethos was supporting the independent trade in the face of a growing threat from the multiples.“Supermarkets were dictating what we were eating and what we were going to pay,” he says. “That was 30 years ago, so you can imagine how I feel about it now.” “If the award was for sticking to my principles then I’m very proud. People said to me ‘You won’t survive unless you supply the big boys’. So I said ‘Then I won’t survive. Not to worry’” Cope did come close to the brink, “gambling” his last £1,200 on a stand at the 1987 International Food Exhibition in London. But it paid off and the phones were ringing off the hook with orders when he returned to Leek. The firm has since become one of the most recognised brands in speciality food, supplying independents with around 700 lines (made in-house or sourced from other artisan producers) and amassing 125 Great Taste awards. Even now, Cope is always looking to try out new categories and, having delegated a good deal of the day-to-day running of Cottage Delight, has had time to work on a couple of new projects. When he met Adrian Corke, owner of Staffordshire Brewery in nearby Cheddleton, two years ago he saw an opportunity he couldn’t resist. Impressed by Corke’s enthusiasm, he ended up buying a third of the


brewery and investing in equipment, The brewery has also allowed including a bottling plant. Cottage Delight to offer its own In the last 18 months, the ranges of humorously branded beers. brewery’s turnover has risen from Also available in gift packs, these have around £300,000 to more than been selling well from the Christmas £1.4m. It has expanded into catalogue and will be worth £100,000 contract bottling jobs and supplying to Cottage Delight this year. kit to other microbreweries. It Cope has another side project produces six of on the go too. I’m ploughing lots of Corke was also its own bottled beers, three of money into the brewery the owner of which it also sells and the cheese, but the Staffordshire locally in casks, Cheese Co, and I’m not doing it for with Cottage was looking to monetary return. I just Delight acting as sell it off in 2011 love it. a sales arm. to concentrate “We’ve got on his beer. So customers queuing up,” says Cope. Cope bought the whole business. “That, to me, is just wonderful. I “I’m mad enough to like the haven’t drawn a penny out but my challenge,” he says. interest in it is on fire.” He has just invested £100,000

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

into upgrading the dairy in a unit next door to the brewery, creating ample production and storage space for the firm’s two cheeses, Staffordshire and Dovedale Blue, both of which have Protected Designation of Origin status. Cope has brought the dairy’s founder John Knox back on board to help perfect the cheeses together with dairy manager Tom Green and his assistant, Cope’s son Michael. Dovedale has not been made since Hartington Creamery was shut down in 2009 after being bought by Stilton-maker Long Clawson. During his tenure of Staffordshire Cheese Co, Corke managed to get hold of the recipe. Long Clawson still owns the Dovedale name but, as it isn’t within the PDO’s geographical area,

While he has invested heavily in Staffordshire Brewery and Staffordshire Cheese Co, Nigel Cope (left) is still driving NPD at Cottage Delight, which includes a new range of teas

has granted Cope permission to produce the cheese. While both cheeses are being sold locally, Cope is biding his time on selling further afield while he and Knox perfect them. “When John Knox gives me his blessing, we shall re-launch the Staffordshire cheese,” says Cope adding that Dovedale is also close to being ready. The blueing is good, but the cheese is not quite as soft as the old Dovedale. “I’m very close, probably about 90% of the way to getting Dovedale Blue back as I want it.” Next year, Cope plans to revive another out-of-production PDO cheese as well as trying out an unpasteurised recipe. He is not ruling out supplying the beer and

cheese to multiples if take-up by independents is poor, but he doesn’t see these two businesses as a means of topping up his bank balance. “Cottage Delight is a £12m company and it’s well run; you don’t have to make a huge percentage profit on it to be very comfortable. I’m ploughing lots of money into the brewery and lots of money into the cheese, but I’m not doing it for monetary return. I just love it.” Even with these diversions, Cope still devotes plenty of time to being “at the helm” of Cottage Delight. In the last five years, he has taken a few steps back and, for a time, another of his sons, Paul, took up the reins after making his way through the ranks. Cope describes this period as a “difficult stage” for

both of them, which ended in his son departing three years ago. Jason Moody, who first joined in 2007 as logistics director, is now managing director and Gary Johnston heads up the sales team. With the “nitty gritty” being taken care of, Cope focuses most of his time on researching products and packaging, but he is also pondering where to steer the business next. As long as sales match the previous year plus 4-5% to cover rises in overheads, he is happy. But he feels Cottage Delight’s success means further substantial growth could be hard to achieve. “A lot of people criticise Cottage Delight now because it’s everywhere,” he explains. “I don’t know what some of these people

want, to be truthful. I’m not going to go to the supermarkets but there are a lot of retailers who still want something more exclusive. It’s a bit of a nightmare and I get upset when they say it.” Creating sub-brands is one option but Cope says diversifying has proved difficult. “I think we’re stamped now as a jam-maker, pickle-maker, chutneymaker and sauce-maker and they don’t take us seriously with anything else.” One triumph has been Cottage Delight’s new range of teas, developed with master blender Alex Probyn and – unusually for the firm – launched in its own catalogue. “People in this building have said ‘We’re never going to do tea because it’s so competitive.’ My answer to that is, ‘So is strawberry jam. Why are we so successful at that?’” The tea has sold well and proved popular in Norway, of all places, with one firm placing the largest export order Cope has ever seen for a single range. The export market is one he is keen to expand and he hopes to prolong the life of this year’s Great British Pantry range (which won’t feature in 2013’s catalogue) by selling it abroad. Cope’s next challenge for his team is chocolate. He has tried it in the past, buying the Chocolart brand, but this has since been absorbed into Cottage Delight with most lines de-listed. He is determined, however, to be taken seriously as a chocolatier and thinks if he can crack the packaging the sales will come. With all these plans, it’s safe to say that he won’t be selling up, then? “I have to be sensible and think I’m not going to be around forever but I don’t know what the answer is,” he says, adding that there are always people “nosing around” who he turns away politely. He is bringing in more outside help, in the form of part-time consultants, to continue moulding his management team but is definitely not ready to let go. “It’s easy to go and sell a company and somebody will ruin the whole thing,” he says. And it’s not just the bottom line that Cope is thinking about. He beams as he tells FFD that 80% of his 150-strong workforce has done at least five year’s service. “There’s a lot of labour intensive work. The girl that puts that bonnet on a jar with an elastic band is as important as I am. Because if you don’t do that properly it looks shite, to be honest.” He adds: “I owe them something. They need a secure future so I’m going to keep going as long as I can. I’m enjoying it. I need to be a bit healthier which I’m working on now.” It seems he has no plans to sell any time soon.

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012




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Llongyfarchiadau i enillwyr Cymru y Gwir Flas 2012/13 Congratulations to all the 2012/13 Wales the True Taste winners

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November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10


news & views from the cheese counter

Simon Weaver makes Single Gloucester for wildlife trust By PATRICK McGUIGAN

Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust has launched a new Single Gloucester cheese called Greystones, made with milk from cows that graze the wild flower meadows on one of its nature reserves. The new pasteurised cheese is named after the 162-acre farm and reserve in Bourton-on-the-Water and is made in Upper Slaughter by local organic cheese-maker Simon Weaver. The reserve was previously a working dairy farm for many years before it was taken over by the trust and is home to the Salmonsbury Meadows (a Site of Special Scientific Interest), rare grasslands and an ancient monument dating back to the Neolithic age. Cows have been reintroduced to the farm to help maintain and encourage the diverse flora and fauna with 14 Friesans currently being milked and plans to introduce rare breed Gloucester cattle as the herd builds to around 60 animals.

The new cheese is named after Greystones Farm nature reserve

The cows are currently grazed at Greystones as heifers and relocated to Weaver's farm during the milking

Fowlers creates cows’ milk tribute to the ‘Bard of Avon’ By PATRICK McGUIGAN

After two years of developing its own special blend of starter cultures, Britain's oldest cheese company has launched a new soft cows’ milk cheese named in honour of Britain’s most famous playwright. Warwickshire Soft Bard is made by Fowlers of Earlswood, which can trace its history back to 1690 and is located 15 miles away from Stratford-Upon-Avon – the birthplace of Shakespeare. The new Brie-style cheese is the brainchild of Adrian Fowler, the MD of the company and a 14th generation cheesemaker. It is made with pasteurised milk from the company’s own herd and has been developed to have a long shelf-life thanks to a unique blend of starters. “My first aim was to create a cheese with longevity,” said

Fowler. “By mixing Mesophilic and Thermophilic cultures, and adjusting temperature and acidity rates, I've managed to create a cheese that has a good structure that lasts over eight weeks. “At two weeks it has a nice fresh, lemony flavour, which becomes sweeter and richer as it matures so that by 5-7 weeks it has a mellow, lightly nutty flavour.” While he made trial batches at Lightwood Cheese in Worcestershire, Fowler has now extended his dairy and added a reclaimed 1,000-litre vat, in which he is currently making 500-litre batches of Soft Bard. Fowlers is well known for making Derby and Sage Derby, as well as Forest Blue, Warwickshire Truckle and blended cheeses.

Fowlers has extended its dairy to produce 500 litre batches of Soft Bard

season, but will eventually be located at the nature reserve all year round once the milking facilities have

been built. Plans are also in place to construct a maturing room and visitor centre at the farm. Simon Weaver currently makes around around 50kg of the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese each week, which he sells at farmers' markets and food festivals. Cheeseworks and the new Whole Foods Market store in Cheltenham are also keen to stock the product, said nature reserve manager Tom Beasley-Suffolk. “The cows will help manage the diverse range of grasses and flowers on the farm, which means we should get some really good milk, while benefiting the local wildlife,” he said. “A donation to Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust will also be made from the sale of Greystones Single Gloucester, enabling the nature reserve to provide a sustainable income for the benefit of wildlife and local people.”

Green light for Goatwood Lincolnshire goats’ cheese producer Goatwood Dairy has expanded its production capacity to meet growing demand, after securing a £30,000 loan. It will spend the money from Lloyds TSB Commercial on a larger vat and more fridges at the company's production facilities at Hoop Lane Farm in Langton by Wragby. This will allow the company to make larger batches and meet orders more quickly. John and Carolyn Gunner, who launched the business last year, also plan to increase their small herd of 18 goats. Demand for its raw milk cheeses has grown at farmers’ markets and from hotels and restaurants, helped by recent wins at this year’s British Cheese Awards. Its fresh cheese Langton won

Goatwood’s John Gunner (left) with Kevin Hand, relationship manager at Lloyds TSB Commercial

silver at the awards, while its soft blue Bardney picked up a bronze. This followed golds for both cheeses the previous year. Goatwood's other products include Kingthorpe, a white mouldripened goats’ cheese, and Apley, which is rolled in ash.

ELECTRIC DREAM: Kent cheesemaker Robin Betts has bought an electric car to deliver his raw milk cheddar. The Nissan Leaf can carry 100kg of Winterdale Shaw cheese for 90 miles before it needs recharging. “We aim to be carbon neutral and the car is a big step towards that,” said Betts. “We plan to use it for local deliveries and into London, where we won't have to pay the congestion charge.” Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012



news & views from the cheese counter

Demand from both UK and export clients has outstripped supply at David Williams Cheese

Williams adds space amid growing interest in blends By MICHAEL LANE

Blended cheese specialist David Williams is tripling production capacity, adding 4,000 sq ft to the 1,200 sq ft of space he already occupies on industrial estate in the shadow of the stately Crewe Hall in Cheshire. It is the latest phase of growth for a business born 30 years ago in the back of the family shop. Williams has since created more than 95 blended cheeses, including the famous Bowland. By taking on these next-door buildings, which will house a new extruder, a new waxing room and a warehouse for packing, David Williams hopes to ease some of the pressure on the current facility. He tells FFD that production ran 24/7 for two months of last year. “We turn an awful lot of customers down at the moment,” he says. “Not wishing to sound big headed, but I’ve never been out there trying to get business, it’s always come to us.” Half of the firm’s sales come from abroad, particularly the US and Canada, all of which is handled by dairy exporter Coombe Castle. Williams’ main UK customers are wholesaler Bradburys, which sells his cheese to both multiples and independents, and speciality brand The Cheshire Cheese Company, for which he produces half a tonne of 200g waxed and film-wrapped cheeses every day. The latter is one of the main reasons for installing the new machines. These smaller cheeses

Le Grand Fromage Bob Farrand

It occurred to me a month or so back that I’ve been contributing cheesy words to this magazine for exactly 25 years. To celebrate, I dusted down the archives and dug out my first issue to see which wedges were the talk of the trade a quarter of a century ago. Tim Rowcliffe had just announced the launch of a new range of Irish farmhouse cheeses into the UK including a creamy Cashel Blue (which we noted at the time was the only Irish blue cheese), a strongly flavoured Milleens, a camembert-like St Killian, a surface ripening Gubbeen, a semi-


currently account for 10% of Williams’ output but he anticipates continued growth both online and through independents. The extra space will allow the firm to take on a large order from the US arm of Aldi, which Williams has turned down once before. He will also offer bespoke waxed cheeses to retailers and other customers, potentially including a major football team that has been making enquiries. Williams is also keen to up the amount of traditional pressed cheese he produces. “We want to get back to the choice of handmaking,” he says. “We’ve relied heavily on extruded cheeses in the past few years.” Williams began blending cheese during the early ’80s in nearby Sandbach in the family shop, Godfrey Williams & Son, which is run today by his wife and daughter. His first cheese, Bowland – a blend of raisins, cinnamon, apples and Lancashire cheese – was meant to reduce wastage, but Williams’ father saw it as the opposite. “His words were, ‘That’s a waste of damn good cheese, that’,” recalls Williams. “We keep reminding him of that. ‘Bowland’s paid your pension, Dad.’” The firm sells 2-3 tonnes every week in the UK exclusively through Bradburys – some handmade and some extruded, some to independents and some to Asda and Morrisons. Williams is keen to stress that his larger capacity will not

David Williams has been operating 24/7 to keep up with demand

alter his approach to supplying supermarkets. “We turn something down if they come and say we’ve got to meet a price point,” he says. “We don’t cheapen a product.” Williams sources extra ingredients from from specialists such as dried fruit importer Hider and uses quality territorial cheeses from Belton or Denhay. He often specifies the age profiles he needs – for instance, Bowland is made with six-month-old creamy Lancashire – and says the flavour of the cheese should always come through first, even in blends.

enormous milk lake”. He also praised soft Durrus and a smooth textured a relatively new cheese on the block, Lavistown. I’m delighted to report Cornish Yarg. all are still around, including Tim, Our Shelf Talk pages reported a and most were at November’s World new cheese called Kirschana, from Cheese Awards. Midlands producer Long Clawson. Our Deli of the Month in This little beauty was a hexagonal December 1987 hasn’t fared so blend of full fat soft cheese and vine well. We featured The Mousetrap fruits with a hint of Kirsch. Its fate is in Norwich, run by David and Ruth lost in the mists of time although I Thompson and as far as I can fear it didn’t last determine, the shop disappeared some I’ve been contributing quite as long as the infamous years ago. cheesy words to this Lymeswold, David told magazine for exactly which was also me he couldn’t satisfy demand for 25 years. To celebrate, I mentioned in our his biggest seller, dug out my first issue. first issue. The English answer farmhouse cheddar, to German Cambozola was created because “farmers producing the with a little help from Margaret best only use their own milk and Thatcher. It was finally given the chop EU quotas limit output despite the

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

There will always be some so-called “purists” who don’t appreciate what Williams does, regardless of its popularity. But he says: “There’s more pressing things in life than trying to change somebody’s mind about what cheese they like.” • Food critic Charles Campion writes about David Williams Cheese and other blended cheese producers in the 2012-13 edition of Good Cheese, just published.

by Dairy Crest in 1992. The cheese, not the PM. She’d gone two years earlier. We also reported the launch of Cushlee, a surface ripened soft cheese with ‘a piquant flavour’ from Irish dairy company Kerrygold. This lasted almost a decade and if you want to buy the name, it’s currently for sale on the internet. Oh, and in that issue of December 1987, we also announced the impending launch of the first ever World Cheese Awards scheduled for the following March – although it actually started life as the London International Cheese Show. Now that’s what I call maturity. FFD publisher Bob Farrand is chairman of the UK Cheese Guild

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cheesewire Ribblesdale’s Iona Hill (right) likes to stress there is more than one Wensleydale made in Hawes, but the majority of her sales come from hard goats’ milk cheeses

Room for two Interview

Wensleydale and Hawes are synonymous but there’s more than one producer of the famous territorial in the Yorkshire town. PATRICK McGUIGAN reports.


allace’s smile wouldn’t have been quite so wide if he’d known that the nice bit of Yorkshire Wensleydale brought to him by Gromit could have been made in Shropshire, Cheshire or even (whisper it) Lancashire. Like many territorial cheeses, most Wensleydale is now manufactured on an industrial scale miles away from the beautiful Yorkshire valley where it was traditionally made. Most cheesemongers can name one exception: the Wensleydale Creamery, which is based in Hawes in the North Yorkshire Dales. But fewer will know that there is actually another cheese-maker producing Wallace’s favourite. And it’s in the same town. Ribblesdale Cheese was set up in 1978 by Iain Hill in the nearby village of Horton-in-Ribblesdale, but after he passed away in 2006 his niece Iona Hill took over the business and relocated it to Hawes. Not that the Wensleydale Creamery would have been too worried by the competition. Ribblesdale is a fraction of the size of its neighbour, as Iona Hill explains: “They employ 200 people and have a turnover of £22m. We employ two people – me and cheese-maker Stuart Gatty – and our turnover is £350,000. There’s really no comparison.”

Wensleydale that look like cricket That said, Hill is keen to play balls. up the fact that she also makes However, cows’ milk cheese Wensleydale in Hawes, pointing out remains a small part of the business that in the 2011 Great Taste Awards with 85% of production coming her cheese received two stars, while from hard goats’ cheeses, including her larger neighbour picked up just best sellers such as Original Goat one for its Wensleydale. and Superior Goat gouda. “We know we can make it, it’s Iain Hill had a small herd of just that we don’t have the market goats and made his own cheese because everyone associates Hawes when he first set up, but by the with Wensleydale Creamery,” she time Iona took over the business says. “It’s a shame because my big production was completely outmantra is that there are two cheesesourced. makers in Hawes.” “We had very little control over Despite the difference in size, the quality or the relationship with or perhaps because of it, relations the people who made the cheese,” between the two companies are she says. “For authenticity’s sake good. Richard Clarke, Wensleydale we had to become cheese-makers Creamery’s head cheese-maker, uses again.” Ribblesdale’s Hill did premises Everyone associates Hawes once or twice with Wensleydale Creamery. a course at Reaseheath a month to It’s a shame because my and some work make an unpasteurised mantra is that there are two experience cheese-makers in Hawes at Leagram’s Wensleydale and promptly – something started making cheese at the new that would be tricky at a creamery unit in Hawes. Eight weeks later which is dedicated to pasteurised she gained a listing with Booths milk. “I’m happy to work with them – pretty good for someone who rather than against them,” says Hill. previously worked as an accountant Ribblesdale also makes its own and project manager for corporate unpasteurised Wensleydale, using behemoths such as Deloitte and milk from a local pedigree herd, as KPMG. well as a pasteurised version and “I was absolutely astonished a new product called Yorkshire by the Booths listing. It was Bowlers - red waxed balls of

tremendously validating,” she says. The company still supplies Booths today, as well as most of the major wholesalers to delis and farm shops. Hill’s corporate background may not have helped when she was elbow deep in goats’ milk, but it has proved useful in keeping a grip on the bottom line. This year the business has invested in a new 4,500-litre vat and flow-pasteuriser, which will double capacity and help reduce overheads, while a new steam plant should cut its energy bills in half. At the same time Hill moved swiftly to close a small cheese shop in Hawes, which she opened in 2011, when sales began to fall. “It went really well in the beginning, but this year has been absolutely diabolical. Sales nosedived due to the crummy summer and the recession. It wasn’t making any money and was taking up too much time, so we had to close.” Improving efficiency is vital to offset the rising cost of goats’ milk caused by shortages and rocketing feed prices, which will inevitably lead to a “tremendous hike” in cheese prices across the industry next year, says Hill. “We’re paying around 12p a litre more for our goats’ milk compared to last year and I think we’ll see another increase of 4p at the beginning of 2013,” she says. “So far we’ve carried the increase, but we can’t carry on doing that because our margins are being eroded. It worries me because we're such a tiny artisan producer making in small batches. We can’t absorb costs like bigger dairies.”

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


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Level 2 Food Safety Online Suitable for all food handlers involved in preparing or serving food in a retail, catering or food manufacturing environment.£25+VAT Level 3 Food Safety Online Ideal for supervisors or catering managers and those responsible for training other food handlers in food safety. We recommend that at least one person in any food business should be trained to Level 3. £125+VAT Coming soon online Allergens training. Contact us for details. Foundation Nutrition Online (Level 2) Suitable for those interested in learning the basics of healthy eating and nutrition principles, in order to develop healthy menus, recipes or products. £45+VAT Classroom-based courses in HACCP, Food Safety, Auditing and Nutrition take place in Skipton or can be run at your own premises for groups of 5-15 people.

contact us on 01373 864324


November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

Contact Claire Lennon on 01756 708526 or email Verner Wheelock Associates 4 Stable Courtyard, Broughton Hall Bus. Park, Skipton BD23 3AE

A promotional feature for Rowcliffe

Bigging it up at Christmas and through the winter Stiltons, whole Cheddars, Brie de Meaux, fondue and Raclette, STEVE SMITH stacks up his Christmas selection.

Talking C heese



iving your customers a great choice is always very important of course and this is especially true during the Summer months. At Christmas time the deli consumer wants to see an abundance of cheese (rather than small pieces) and a big , bold display will give your customers confidence that you will be well stocked for the

festive season. Whole and baby Stiltons will be the main feature of course but don’t forget whole Cheddars as a fine display rather than your normal cut quarter or eigth cheese should stand out and it really does seem to be the more you have , the more you will sell. Major on your “flagship” Cheddar, have a plate of samples and even six to 10 pieces of various sizes always cut “ready to go”. A couple of weeks before Christmas buy in four or five Brie de Meaux as it is the best time of the year to have a “stack” of cheeses ripening for the holiday table. After the fun is over we come

into the hard cheese season and cheeses such as Comte, Abondance (from our artisan list) Gruyere, Emmental and Apenzeller are such good long lasting cheeses and so important and versatile in winter warmer recipes for dishes al la gratin and for soups. One item that can be forgotten is the ready prepared fondue pack which is actually very good and oh so simple. A large display again can make the counter look full during possibly the quietest period. Raclette still continues to become more and more popular and many people have their own machines. The strong winey taste

means this cheese is not just restricted to the Alpine party dish of the same name but lends itself to accompanying baked potatoes, a host of toasted options, stuffed chicken and for your adventurous customers making cheese straws. So here’s wishing you a busy and profitable Christmas, the snow holds off and a good start to the new year.

01892 838999

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


A promotional feature on behalf of Le Gruyére AOC

Peak performers Le Gruyère AOC is a must-stock on any serious deli counter. So how do top food shops go about selling the famous Swiss mountain cheese? We asked four of London’s most illustrious retailers. Harrods It’s not just Harrods’ famous cheese counter that is home to Le Gruyère AOC. The Swiss cheese is also popular in the food hall’s kitchens, where the cave-aged King Cut Kaltbach version is used to add depth of flavour to scones and breads and Rowcliffe’s Le Cret is used in sandwiches and melted on burgers. “There’s so many things you can do with it,” says Harrods’ cheese buyer Bernadette Lalonde. “It’s a very versatile cheese. We get a lot of people who come to our counter and say: ‘I always buy cheddar, what else can I have?’ So we’ll give them Le Gruyère AOC as an alternative. Most


people like it when they taste it.” An 18-20 month cave-aged Le Gruyère AOC is part of the core range of cheeses on the counter all year round, but Harrods also runs regular promotions when the food hall will source a range of different aged cheeses from small artisan producers. Most recently it worked with a tiny Alpine producer called Moléson, taking entire wheels of cheese made with summer milk and aged for 12, 18 and 22 months. “The 22-month cheese had a lot more punch than the Kaltbach. It was much fuller and deeper in flavour, although the paste was actually a lot smoother,” says Lalonde. “Personally,

November-December · Vol.10 Issue 13

I tend to go for an older cheese – I like those savoury flavours, rather than sweet.” Harrods staff carried out “vertical tastings”, giving customers the chance to try all the different ages so they could taste the differences for themselves. “They got to see how the younger cheeses are a lot fruitier and the older cheeses are more savoury,” says Lalonde. “It’s important that you are able to talk to the customer and explain the cheeses during a tasting.” Paxton & Whitfield The amazing complexity and array of different flavours that can be

Paxton & Whitfield likes to emphasise the distinct flavour differences between its Reserve and Vieux Alpage varieties

traditional methods and equipment in high mountain chalets between June and September, comes from wholesaler KaseSwiss. “At £30 for the Reserve and £45 a kilo for the Alpage, I wouldn’t rush to put them out on general tasting, but we do let customers taste through the range if they are interested,“ says Buchanan. At those prices, Paxton’s Le Gruyère AOC is best suited to the cheeseboard rather than as an ingredient for cooking, although Buchanan says the flavour is so intense that adding just a small amount to a fondue can really bring depth to a dish. “We sell a decent amount to restaurants in London, who like to put it on their cheeseboard. The Square take our Reserve and Medlar likes the Alpage, while quite a lot also goes to the Ritz,” he adds.

Harrods runs Le Gruyère AOC promotions featuring cheeses from both larger and artisanscale cheese-makers found in Le Gruyère AOC are well understood by Britain’s oldest cheesemonger, Paxton & Whitfield. At its Jermyn Street store it stocks two types of the Swiss cheese that on paper might not seem that different. Both its Reserve and Vieux Alpage cheeses are made exclusively with summer milk and are matured for around 16 months, but they have distinctly different flavour profiles, explains shop manager Ruaridh Buchanan. “The Reserve is sweeter, drier and sharper, while the Alpage is more intense and nutty,” he says. “I find they get really strong after 16 months. We had some at Christmas that was 27 months, which was really intense and too much for me, but customers loved it.” The Reserve is sourced directly from a supplier in France, while the Alpage, which is made using

Partridges Ever since Partridges food hall first opened in Sloane Square back in 1972, Le Gruyère AOC has been a stalwart of the cheese counter, says MD John Shepherd. “We’ve been stocking it for 40 years and it always sells well all year round,” he says. “I think that’s partly because it goes well in dishes like fondue, soufflés and French onion soup, but it also works just as well on a cheeseboard. It has always been in the top 10 best selling cheeses on our counter.” Partridges, which holds a Royal Warrant to supply groceries to Her Majesty the Queen, stocks Le Cret Le Gruyère AOC, supplied by Rowcliffes. The cheese is produced at the Le Cret Dairy in the Friboug canton, where it has been made since 1800, and is ripened for 12-14 months. The rind has a rustic brown colour as a result of being rubbed with brine twice a week for the first few months, while the cheese itself has a long complex flavour with sweet caramel notes and a rich nuttiness. “We often have tasters on top of the counter, so that our cheese expert can talk to the customers about it, and we hold regular cheese and wine events where Le Gruyère AOC will often feature,” says Shepherd. The large producers’ market held outside the shop every Saturday is also a good sales opportunity, with Partridges selling Le Gruyère AOC from its own stand. Fortnum & Mason Considering Fortnum & Mason’s 300-year-old heritage and commitment to flying the flag for British food producers, it’s no surprise that home-grown cheeses take centre stage in the food hall. But there will always be a place for Le Gruyère AOC among the 100

Le Gruyère AOC has been a mainstay of Partridge’s counter for four decades

or so cheeses in the cheese counter, says fresh food buyer Shirley Aubrey, who is personally a fan. “I like it, particularly very thinly sliced from a large chunk,” she says. “A good wire hand-slicer is perfect, and I could sit and eat it straight off the slicer, although I think it works well with cornichons and a selection of meats, served in the Swiss style with a crusty baguette-style bread.” If that doesn’t tempt you then there is always the ‘Swiss melt’ – made by melting Le Gruyère AOC over mushrooms – which is served in the Piccadilly department store’s

Parlour Restaurant. On the counter, Fortnum stocks Kaltbach, which Aubrey says has a “wonderfully complex flavour – fruity and nutty, with a long flavour”. Much of this complexity is due to the way the cheese is matured in natural sandstone caves deep underground in the canton of Lucerne. The climate in the caves remains constant throughout the year with a humidity of 94% and temperatures of 10-12.5°C. Kaltbach is aged for at least 12 months, nine of which will be in the famous caves.

On Fortnum & Mason’s cheese counter, the Le Gruyère AOC variety of choice is the complex, nutty, cave-aged Kaltbach Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


CHAPMANs Leaflet NEW FRONT AW copy.pdf



From the home of fish

Deli cio


Ritchie's have been Smoking Scottish Salmon on the Isle of Bute for over 120 years.

The Chapman Family have been involved in the seafish industry in Grimsby for over fifty years.


Over which time they have amassed invaluable knowledge especially with regards to recognizing and sourcing the best fish available.



Rich in heritage and flavour our Smoked Salmon



makes the perfect Christmas gift.

Like many Grimsby housewives, the late Mavis Chapman had her own recipe for fishcakes using the fish that husband Terry would fetch from work.




Get 10% Off Using RSOO4 in our online store.

Now, her sons Kevin and Paul have taken this recipe to produce a traditional fishcake, and using their mum’s principal of incorporating only the finest ingredients, they manufacture a range of fishcakes. Based in Grimsby, Lincolnshire, Kevin and Paul have the pick of the fish from local producers and the pick of the crop of Maris Piper potatoes from local growers.


We provide: • Consistent top quality products • No minimum order • Responsive and personal attention • Orders dispatched within 24 hours • Delivery within 48 hours

telephone 01472 269871


“Sally Barnes is the greatest fish smoker in the country.” We provide: • Consistent top quality products • No minimum order • Responsive and personal attention • Orders dispatched within 24 hours • Delivery within 48 hours

Tom Doorley Food Critic and Author, formerly of the Irish Times, now with the Irish Daily Mail

Multi-award winning artisan smokery, run by mother and daughter, Sally and Joleine Barnes.

Hand-crafted smoke-cured fish from West Cork Woodcock Smokery Hand Crafted, Smoke Cured Fish from West Cork


Gortbrack Castletownshend Skibbereen West Cork Ireland

To place an order: Email: Telephone: 00 353 (0)28 36232 Place an order online via our web site:

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

First time entry for Great Taste 2012, winning a 1-star gold for Irish Organic Oak Smoked Salmon & Irish Organic Cold Oak Smoked Trout Call us on 00353 51 421910 or email

A promotional feature for the Guild of Fine Food

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER’S MONEY MAKING PROMOTIONS The Guild of Fine Food has developed its Retail Promotion Scheme to help retailers survive recession hit Britain. We are negotiating with our producer members and have handpicked a selection of great products on which we’ve secured big discounts unique to Guild retail members.



The firm’s Limited Edition Christmas Coffee (medium roasted Colombian beans infused with Jamaican rum, hazel & pecan nuts, spices and a hint of orange) is now available either with Cherizena branding or with retailers’ own labels. This is one of 25 different flavoured coffees that the firm produces in-house as well as its ranges of premium and speciality coffees. All of its coffees are available in bean or ground formats in pack sizes from 60g to 1kg. Cherizena also offers its full colour “bespoke” labelling service across the range. THE DEAL: 25% off first orders across Cherizena coffee range until end of January AVAILABILITY: Nationwide, 48hr courier at cost. First order pro-forma. CONTACT: Matt Jordan on 01664 820111 or


Master chocolatier Marc Demarquette’s luxury chocolate bar range features three Great Taste three-star gold award winners – CacaoLux 71.1% won in 2012, while Vietnam Ben Tre 70% and Vietnam Ben Tre 40% milk earned theirs in 2010. Completing the line-up are its bestselling Sea Salt bar and its 85% dark chocolate bar. All five 22g bars are hand made in Britain using ethical chocolate and are presented in striking new packaging. THE DEAL: Buy any 5 cases of Demarquette chocolate bars and receive one pack of CacaoLux 71.1% bars (worth £55 excl. VAT) free AVAILABILITY: UK only, excludes delivery CONTACT: Kim Sauer on 0207 4603348 or

Sarah Bunton creates award-winning luxury chocolate products. Her ChocoShots, Belgian chocolate designed for stirring directly into hot milk to make hot chocolate, come in four flavours: marshmallow, fudge, orange and mint. Each shot has a 12-month shelf life and come in formats suited to both retail and foodservice. They are available individually wrapped in cases of 20 (£18 per case, RRP £1.25) or in Gift Boxes containing four ChocoShots (£34.20 per case of 9, RRP £5.50). THE DEAL: Order 4 cases of ChocoShots Gift Boxes and receive a box of 20 individually wrapped ChocoShots (retail value £25) free. AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: 01970 890650 or


Robert and Laura Strathern, make gourmet crisps from potatoes grown on their farm situated on the Essex Suffolk border. No potato travels further than the width of their farm yard before being washed, cooked by hand and packed. All of the firm’s crisps are flavoured with locally sourced natural ingredients such as Suffolk Farmhouse Cheese, chillies from The Chilli Company, Aspall Cyder, mint from Norfolk and bacon from Wicks Manor. THE DEAL: Buy 4 cases of 150g bags, get 1 free or buy 6 cases of 40g bags, get 2 free. Free POS unit, tasting pack and poster. AVAILABILITY: Nationwide. Next day delivery. CONTACT: Angela or Megan on 01206 241613 or


The company produces two varieties of its healthy water in 500ml recyclable bottles. Original is flavoured with montmorency cherry, elderberry, lemon, ginger, and manuka honey 10+, while Revive contains coconut, pineapple, blood orange, lemongrass, & agave nectar. Both provide 50% the recommended daily allowance of vitamins B3, B5, B6, B9, B12, C, D3, and Zinc. They contain no added sugar and are free from artficial sweeteners, flavours, or preservatives. THE DEAL: Buy 18x500ml cases of Original and Revive flavours (cost £45+VAT), get free 6x500ml cases of Original and Revive AVAILABILITY: Nationwide, free delivery CONTACT: Derek Sanders on 07709 996519 or


S’aussie makes Australasian flavoured products in small batches, with no preservatives or additives. All three of its products are suitable for vegetarians. Its Spicy Outback Barbie Q sauce and Great Taste winning Sizzling Sweet Chilli sauce both come in cases of 6x310g and can be used as marinades or dipping sauces. The producer also makes Chilli & Red Pepper Jelly (case size 6x200g). S’Aussie is running a promotion in the run-up to Christmas, offering consumers the chance to win an iPad and will be supplying all retailers with a promotional poster. THE DEAL: Buy any 4 cases from the range and receive a free case of Chilli & Red Pepper Jelly AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Karen Collins on 07429 275632 or


This Herefordshire-based producer offers a range of Scotch eggs (It has more than 40 different recipes) all made with locally sourced free-range meats and eggs and even makes some vegetarian varieties. Each batch is made to order by hand and cooked in baskets of six – the same way it has been since the company’s first farmers market in 2003. THE DEAL: A mixed box of six Scotch eggs free with first carriage paid order AVAILABILITY: Nationwide, minimum carriage paid order £54 CONTACT: Neil Chambers on 01885 490520 or


Given the number of preserve-makers across the UK, Uncle Roy has made his best efforts to offer something different with his range. Among the two dozen “country-style” recipes are lavender jelly, strawberry & vanilla jam, three fruit marmalade, rose petal jam and passion fruit curd. All of these flavours are packed in cases of 6 x 8oz jars. Twin jar gift packs are also available in cases of three packs. THE DEAL: Buy 8 cases of jam, marmalade, jellies or curds and get a free case of twin gift packs (worth £13.50) AVAILABILITY: Nationwide as part of any carriage paid order CONTACT: Uncle Roy on 01683 221076 or

GUILD RETAIL PROMOTION SUMMARY (Available to Guild members only)



CHERIZENA 25% off first orders across Cherizina coffee range until end Jan DEMARQUETTE Buy 5 cases from the chocolate bar range, get case of CacaoLux 71.1% bars free FAIRFIELDS FARM CRISPS Buy 4 cases of 150g bags, get 1 free OR buy 6 Cases of 40g bags, get 2 free MUNE HEALTHY WATER Buy 18x500ml cases of Original and Revive flavours, get free 6x500ml cases of each SARAH BUNTON CHOCOLATES Order 4 cases of ChocoShots Gift Boxes and receive a free box of 20 individually wrapped ChocoShots S’AUSSIE Buy any 4 cases and receive a free case of Chilli & Red Pepper Jelly THE HANDMADE SCOTCH EGG CO A mixed box of six Scotch eggs free with first carriage paid order UNCLE ROY’S Buy 8 cases of preserves, get a free case of preserve gift packs



01664 820111 0207 4603348 01206 241613 07709 996519 01970 890650 07429 275632 01885 490520 01683 221076

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


A promotional feature for the Guild of Fine Food

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER’S MONEY MAKING PROMOTIONS FIVEMILETOWN CREAMERY The Northern Irish cheesemaker selects its finest cheddars to become Oakwood, after maturing for up to six months. Each wheel is smoked for up to six hours using slowly smouldering oak logs foraged from the local Forest of Caledon. This process gives the cheese a “gentle, natural smoked flavour and robust aroma”. THE DEAL: Buy 4 x 2kg wheels of Oakwood during December 2012, get 1 free AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Dominic Haynes on 07435 785267 or

SCRUMSHUS GRANOLA Winner of a Great Taste Award for the second year running, This granola features jumbo oats, honey, coconut, raisins, sunflower seeds, maple syrup, almonds, pumpkin seeds, cranberries, sunflower oil, cashew nuts, and hazelnuts all packaged in a PET eco friendly jar. The firm now counts top London hotels Claridges, The Ritz and The Dorchester among its customers. Cases of 12x500g jars are available direct from the producer. THE DEAL: Jars available at a reduced trade price of £4 each (normally £4.50). Free 500G sample bag with first orders AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Fay Miller on 07967 655632 or


THE EXQUISITE RANGE The firm’s Persian nougat is imported from a familyrun producer that has been making the traditional sweet for more than 100 years. Each piece is laden with top quality Persian pistachios and flavoured with rose water. The product won three-star gold in this year’s Great Taste and was named as one of the Top 50 foods in the UK & Ireland. It comes in cases of 12x125g bags (£84 per case). THE DEAL: Buy 2 cases, get a free 2kg sampling pack OR buy 3 cases and receive free 2kg sampling pack and free delivery. AVAILABILITY: Mainland UK CONTACT: Farshad Kazemian on 07771 902293 or


Hider offers a range of sweets under its own “Sweet Shop” branding, including wrapped, boiled, jellies, liquorice, fudge and even good old fashioned Pear Drops. The sweets are packed in outers of 12 with varying price bands to suit all tastes. Display stands and header boards are also available. THE DEAL: 25% off the full range during the months of November and December 2012 AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: 01482 504333 or

LANGDALE’S Langdale’s supplies the very best extracts, flavours, colours and decorations for the growing home baking market. The firm, which was established in 1745, says that its refreshed and extended range will satisfy the needs of both novice and expert bakers. THE DEAL: Buy any 10 cases of sprinkles and 12 cases of 28ml bottles and receive a free Langdale’s branded stand (worth £25) AVAILABILITY: UK & International delivery available. Minimum order applies. CONTACT: 01858 438000 or

West Midlands-based Moorish produces a range of three naturally smoked humous dips. All of the chickpeas used in the dips are smoked over wood in Anglesey to give a deep richness to the taste, whether in the Original, Chilli Harissa or Lemon & Dill versions. The producer describes the dip, which is made with Omega-rich UK rapeseed oil, as “luxuriously thick and grainy”. It comes in cases of 6x160g pots (RRP up to £2.89 per pot). The minimum order is three cases. THE DEAL: Buy 3 cases, get 1 free, on first order AVAILABILITY: Nationwide CONTACT: Julie Waddell on 07857 425311 or

HIGHLAND BAY SEAFOODS After 55 years of supplying the best gourmet Scottish seafood to the world’s leading hotels and restaurants, the firm is introducing its fresh frozen seafood range to speciality retailers. The responsibly sourced hand-selected range of 25 products is not available to supermarkets and includes langoustine, lobster, crab, scallops, smoked salmon and white fish. Each product is vacuum-packed and blast frozen within hours of catch to ensure a “just caught taste” and supplied direct (average of 12 units per case). THE DEAL: Order a minimum of 5 cases and receive a 15% discount and free delivery AVAILABILITY: Mainland UK CONTACT: Euan Ross on 0844 3970044 or euan@

CORNISH CHEESE CO Cornish Blue cheese is all hand made on the company’s farm in Cornwall using the milk from it pedigree dairy herd. This soft, mild creamy blue cheese was named Supreme Champion at the 2010 World Cheese Awards and took the runner-up spot the following year. The firm says its 500g cheese is the ideal size for a Christmas cheese board or – within its presentation box – makes the perfect Christmas gift THE DEAL: Buy 4x500g cheeses, get one free (cost £25) AVAILABILITY: England, Wales, as far north as Edinburgh and Glasgow CONTACT: Philip Stansfield on 07813 703933 or

GUILD RETAIL PROMOTION SUMMARY (Available to Guild members only) COMPANY


CORNISH CHEESE CO Buy 4x500g cheeses, get one free THE EXQUISITE RANGE Buy 2 cases, get a free 2kg sampling pack OR buy 3 cases, get a free 2kg sampling pack and free delivery FIVEMILETOWN Buy 4 x 2kg wheels of Oakwood during Dec 2012, get 1 free CREAMERY 25% off Sweet Shop branded range HIDER FOODS HIGHLAND BAY Order a minimum of 5 cases and receive a 15% discount SEAFOODS and free delivery LANGDALE’S Buy any 10 cases of sprinkles and 12 cases of 28ml bottles and receive a free Langdale’s branded stand Buy 3 cases of smoked humous, get 1 free, on first order MOORISH SCRUMSHUS GRANOLA Jars available at a reduced trade price of £4 each (normally £4.50)


November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10



07813 703933 07771 902293 07435 785267 01482 504333 0844 3970044 01858 438000 07857425311 07967 655632

RETAIL MEMBERS – To sign up to the retail promotion scheme contact: or ring her on 01963 824464 to ensure you receive your shelf-barkers to help promote these discounts instore. SUPPLIER MEMBERS – want to take part? Contact for more information.

By Appointment To Her Majesty The Queen Mail-Order Smoked Foods & Hampers Inverawe Smokehouses

Sc o tland’ s Spec ialistSm o keho use

“I love the salmon from Inverawe”

Rick Stein - The Times


Available to top-niche delicatessen contact the trade team for further details. Tel: 01866 822209

Orderline: 01369 705 286 · email infO@argyllsmOkery.cOm HigHland aVenUe, sandBank, dUnOOn, argyll, Pa23 8Bl

Our new premium look reflects our commitment to high quality sourcing, fishing and preparation.

The world’s best canned fish brand!

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


focus on Sustainability: why aren’t more deli owners biting? While supermarkets have rushed to embrace sustainability, deli owners have been slower to take the bait, as ethical seafood champion Charles Redfern tells LYNDA SEARBY


hows like Hugh’s Fish Fight and The Fisherman’s Apprentice have got consumers fired up about over-fishing, by-catch and nonsensical quotas. The multiples have been quick to cash in on the mood. In October, Tesco announced it was to expand its range of sustainable, seasonal fresh fish to keep pace with soaring demand from environmentallyminded shoppers. Under the ‘catch of the day’ scheme, the supermarket will increase its range of seasonal fresh fish from 40 to 60 varieties. Tesco is not the only major multiple netting profits from sustainably sourced seafood. According to Charles Redfern, founder and managing director of sustainable canned fish brand Fish4Ever, Sainsbury’s, Waitrose and M&S have all developed sustainable seafood policies. He says some restaurants too are adopting a ‘catch and cook’ approach, whereby the catch of the day dictates what’s on the menu rather than the other way round. In fact it seems everyone is engaging with the question of seafood sustainability. Everyone apart from the deli trade, that is. “Deli buyers are not necessarily looking at sustainability,” says Redfern. “Part of the reason is that they don’t have systematic processes or resources for implementing policies like the supermarkets who can quickly put scientists on the

case, carry out traceability checks and draw up grids of where to source different species. “It’s not surprising, therefore, that the fine food sector lags far behind the multiple trade when it comes to sustainability.” Deli owners might argue that their customers are interested in quality above eco-friendliness, but Redfern insists the two go hand in hand. “Sustainable sourcing equals quality sourcing,” he says. “We have very tight controls because of the way that we catch and that results in a fresh product that has been carefully produced. For example, we deal with specific boats that land their fish very fast. The fish is then processed by local, artisanal factories.” He says this contrasts sharply with industrial brands, whose catch often sits in huge tanks before being landed, frozen, defrosted, processed and packed. Fish4Ever’s range currently includes canned anchovies, herring fillets, kippers, mackerel fillets, sardines, tuna and salmon, all of which meet strict sustainability criteria. If these lines sound too mainstream for some deli customers, the company is planning to extend into jarred products next year with the launch of stuffed squid, ventresca tuna (belly of tuna) and razor clams.

For provenance and sustainability it’s hard to beat the coracle netsmen of west Wales. Now their wild salmon and sea trout are being smoked and brought to the table by a Carmarthenshire start-up, as MICK WHITWORTH reports.

Fish4Ever’s Charles Redfern says sustainable sourcing means quality sourcing, so it should appeal to delis on two levels


Call of the w

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10


few eyebrows were raised last month when Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status was granted to the Newmarket Sausage – a recipe apparently dating back to Victorian times, but one that many of us had never heard of, let alone thought about preserving. But two other British foods currently grinding through the EU Protected Food Names mill may strike more of a chord in the speciality food market: west Wales coracle-caught sewin (sea trout) and salmon. Both are fished from just three rivers – the Teifi, the Tywi and Tâf – by a small and diminishing number of licenced netsman, using wobbly, single-seater coracles made to a

willow-framed design that would have been familiar in pre-Roman times. As you might guess, it’s a lowintensity fishing method and, as well as providing a great back-story to hook consumers, it fits perfectly with the ethos of one of the coracle fishermen’s newest clients. Cnwd (it’s pronounced ‘Cn-ood’, and is Welsh for ‘crop’) was set up last year by chef Scott Davis, who has worked for Michelinstarred restaurateurs including John-Georges Vongerichten and Marco-Pierre White. His aim was to showcase the raw materials that Carmarthenshire, Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion had to offer. Davies is also a partner in The 25 Mile, a restaurant in Cardigan that buys all its ingredients from within that distance. Ensconced in a purpose-built food unit at Cross Hands near Llanelli, Cnwd has just seven full- and part-time staff, including Davis, his partner Kirsty Manning and his sister Lucy, who helps with marketing from her London base. It is already catching the attention of high-end retailers with an assortment of classic parfaits, patés, terrines and smoked fish, all featuring local ingredients from west Wales and produced using scaled-up restaurant techniques. Customers to date include Fortnum & Mason, Sourced Market at St Pancras and Hamish Johnston in Clapham. “When I was at the Mirabelle

seafood Today’s catch

Cnwd’s Scott Davis (above left) is using coracle-caught salmon and sea trout along with locally-landed mackerel in his range of foods from west Wales

Best known for its smoked salmon, Inverawe Smokehouses has added marinated anchovies to its range. The white, unsalted anchovy fillets come marinated in plain, garlic or Mexican-spiced oil, with respective trade prices of £2.45, £2.60 and £2.50 for 180g. Smokery owner, Rosie CampbellPreston, says: “These marinated anchovy fillets are a fantastic way to add some flavour to appetisers, in caesar salads and as snacks or toppings to tarts and pizzas.”

Highland Bay Seafoods is hoping to encourage delis and food halls to give more space to seafood, with a range of 25 frozen lines – from lobster and langoustine to king scallops, mussels, crab, hake, lemon sole, monkfish and salmon – available in branded freezers. Historically, the Scottish seafood specialist has focused on export and foodservice. Last year, however, a pilot scheme with Perthshire’s House of Bruar and a handful of other food halls and delis signalled a change in direction for the business. It is now looking to target the independent retail trade, which marketing manager Euan Ross says is “weak in its seafood offering”. Prices vary, but retailer margins are around 35%. Distribution is direct and the minimum order to qualify for free delivery is five cases.

e wild

in Mayfair with Marco-Pierre White, I would have been part of a production line of chefs preparing food for two or three of his restaurants,” says Davis, “ so I’m just taking that to the next level. Basically I’ve taken restaurant recipes and timesed them by 100.” Alongside meat products like Towy Valley wild venison & hazelnut terrine and free-range pork rillettes sit a handful of seafood lines. These include smoked west Wales coraclecaught wild salmon and sewin, in both 100g sliced packs (trade: £6.50 for 100g) and whole pieces (trade: £65/kg). There is also a smokey mackerel paté (trade: £3.99 for a 220g jar) made with line-caught fish landed at Burry Port harbour by Richard Hayward, skipper of the ‘Anna D’. The mackerel used in this fresh paté, which has a 10-day shelflife, are smoked and potted on the day they are caught, which means the product will only be available in spring and summer. The sewin and salmon, on the other hand, are blast-frozen for storage, enabling Cnwd to smoke these fish yearround. But they are nonetheless a scarce, wild, unpredictable – and therefore expensive – material. “We are not the cheapest,” says Scott Davis. “If anyone is preaching that their products are local but also extremely affordable, it’s probably not true!” All the coracle-caught fish are individually tagged for traceability, and Cnwd is co-operating with

the multi-agency Celtic Sea Trout Project to help improve knowledge about wild fish populations in West Wales. “We understand the lifecycle of salmon quite well,” says Davis, “but no-one really knows where sea trout go. “We record every fish we use, weigh it, and take scale samples, and we send all the fish heads to Cardiff University. Apparently you can learn a huge amount about fish from studying their inner ear bones.” That may sound like taking ‘provenance’ to the extreme, but it provides a genuine point of difference from the vast bulk of smoked salmon and trout, produced using farmed fish. Davis says the past year has been a “massive learning curve” as Cnwd got to grips with the natural fluctuations in its local raw ingredients, partly driven by the weather. “I was promised I’d have mackerel from April but we didn’t have any until June. And all the rain meant the rivers had much more water than usual, so salmon weren’t moving slowly from pool to pool in the way they would if the water was low.” Next year – natural forces permitting – he expects to buy £40,000 worth of salmon and sewin from the coracle men of Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire, helping ensure the commercial viability of a centuriesold method of sustainable fishing.

Dried meat snacks such as biltong are growing in popularity, and Seafisk hopes its new Snackfish dried fish snack will catch on too, as a healthy alternative to conventional snacks. The company’s Icelandic MD, Marlín Birna, says the Omega-3 and protein-rich dried fish fillets, which are cut into bite-size pieces, are a popular snack in her homeland, but can also be added to stews and other hot dishes. Trade price is £2.55 for a 50g bag and £5 for 100g. Newcomer Staal Smokehouse is making a name for itself in Yorkshire, smoking salmon, mackerel and local trout and curing gravadlax. Founded last November by husband and wife team Justin and Georgina Staal, the East Riding business currently has listings in just six farm shops and delis in Yorkshire, but is looking to expand this side of the business.

Cherry banderilles – made in France using a combination of marinated anchovy fillets and sweet red cherries – are a colourful new addition to the deli counter from Plymouth’s Meridian Sea. Like Spanish olive banderillas, the cherry version can be used in canapés, in salads or tapas selections or as a garnish. Cherries are threaded onto cocktail sticks and then have an anchovy fillet wrapped around them before being covered with sunflower oil. RRP is £3.70 for a 200g tub. Meridian Sea has also launched a 125g retail pack of marinated smoked anchovy fillets (RRP £3.70£4.70). Previously these were only available in larger tubs for catering or loose sale from the deli.

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


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November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

product focus

cakes & puddings

Sweet dreams LYNDA SEARBY gets stuck into the latest speciality puddings and cakes

Honeyrose Bakery has created mini versions of its best-sellers, including its fudge brownie (RRP £0.50), and date & walnut bar (RRP £0.52), and is busy baking Christmas cakes for Duchy Originals.

Newcomer Victorious Baking is hoping to set itself apart from the competition by making fruit and honey sweetened, low calorie cakes that are also gluten-, dairy-, soy- and nut-free, rather than “full of fat and rammed with sugar”. Currently the miniature cakes are available in boxes of 16 (trade price £3.75) in spiced honey, dark but light chocolate and pineapple & passion fruit flavours, but will soon be launching in four-packs.

The Little Round Cake Company says its Swiss Merangz offer retailers an opportunity to maximise profit margins – they are supplied loose in either mixed or single flavour boxes of 30 for retailers to sell on at an RRP of £2 each. Merangz have a crisp shell and mallowy centre and come in lemon, Madagascan vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, almond, pistachio and caramel flavours. www.thelittleroundcakecompany.

The Cotswold Pudding Company has extended its range to include a gluten-free sticky toffee pudding (RRP £3.25-3.50 for 250g) made with gluten- and wheat-free rice flour from Doves Farm. Karen Laggett, who bakes the puddings from her dedicated kitchen unit, says the new version is just as light as her wheat flour varieties.

ChocOrange is the latest addition to Shambhu’s vegan and glutenfree cheesecake range. The Vegan Society approved cheesecake is made with Fairtrade organic cocoa, and can be stocked as a chilled product with a 14-day shelf life or frozen for a three-month shelf life. Each foil pot contains one 155g serving (RRP £3.89).

Dorset’s Honeybuns says it has deconstructed two old favourites in creating the Sconeybun. The glutenand dairy-free half-bun-half-scone is described as “moist and quite cakelike with a hint of vanilla”, and is made with Honeybuns’ own blend of flour, which contains sorghum flour and ground almonds. The individually wrapped 65g buns are available to the trade in packs of 24.

As panettone becomes increasingly popular, Italian pasticceri Loison has expanded its collection for 2012. New additions include the Elegance line, packaged in a luxurious-looking bag with gold chain detail; the Harmony line, in an antique pink floral box and available in classic and sour black cherry variants; and the Emotions range, which includes a panettone made using Ciaculli late-grown mandarins, said to be naturally sweeter and riper.

Cook has introduced a trio of new frozen desserts for winter 2012: apricot & walnut pavlova (RRP £7.99), chocolate & salted caramel tart (RRP £8.50) and two individual lemon tarts (RRP £4.50).

In creating The Innocent, Fab Fairies & Wicked Tarts claims to have cracked the challenge of baking a white chocolate fairy cake that isn’t too sickly sweet. The sponge combines white chocolate and vanilla extract, topped with white chocolate cream cheese ganache. RRP is £2.50 per unit.

Deli owners on the lookout for something other than the ubiquitous flapjack for boosting impulse sales should check out the ‘baby sponge’ from Sponge. The little round cakes are a miniature replica of the company’s full size sponges, and come in eight varieties: Victoria, chocolate, lemon, coffee, apple crumble, carrot, Bakewell and chocolate orange (RRP £1.60-£2). The Norfolk baker is also launching a grab-and-go ‘sponge slab’ at the start of 2013.

Bringing street food to the high street is Puds To Go, with a hybrid between an ice cream cone and a dessert. The Delikone is a raspberry cheesecake in a cone. Puds To Go is keen to break into the retail trade, and can deliver Delikones frozen in boxes of 20 to retail outlets. Trade price is £26 per box of 20 and RRP is £2.50.

Pick of the Christmas puds With Christmas just round the corner, companies are busy pushing their seasonal puddings. The Vintage Manx Christmas pudding (RRP £20) from Isle of Man producers Cocoa Red and Berries at Aaron House has been aging with Champagne cognac since April. The pudding was awarded three stars in this year’s Great Taste Awards – an accolade that led to a deal with Fortnum & Mason. Fuud’s Christmas puds, which use the Brentwood Brewing Company’s Chockwork Orange ale, come in 500g and 960g ceramic bowls tied with muslin top (RRPs £12 and £16). The Original Buxton Pudding Co has replaced raspberry jam with mincemeat in a seasonal twist on its flagship 450g pudding. and

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


Fabulous Buxton Pudding in now available for a limited time in a festive version. Awarded a Great Taste Gold Award in 2012 this very special pudding is a great treat during the cold weeks running up to Christmas and also a terrific alternative to Christmas Pudding, especially with a spoonful of brandy cream. Check out our other Great Taste Award winning products at or call 0845 862 25 26

W inner of 10 Great Taste Awards since 2010

An excellent range of award winning sweet and savoury

Judges Comments


ton Puddin al Bux gC om

y pan

“... the handmade mincemeat is full flavoured and not too sweet, the pastry is good and the batter sponge is delicious... A handsome well baked cake!”

The O

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Autumn’s finest

Blackberry & Apple Crumble Plump Blackberries and Juicy Apples with a Light Oat Crumble Topping Tel: 017684 80864 34

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

Tel 01837 53601

product focus

Flavours to savour MICHAEL LANE gets a taste of the latest flavouring ingredients for the fine food sector

seasonings & spices

The UK arm of Israeli business Spice Way, is now supplying the trade with two more products under the Fast Gourmet range. Tempting Thai and houmous & spinach can be added to rice, pasta, or couscous. Both varieties are available in 100g stand-up pouches and 175g kraft tin-tie bags (RRPs £4 and £6 respectively). It has also added Zippy Za’taar (a blend of hyssop, sesame and olive oil) to its range of spice blends. This is also available in 100g and 175g formats (RRPs £3.50 and £5.50)

Seasoned Pioneers has extended its range with three products, all of which are suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Its “slightly sweet and tangy” dried barberry (26g, trade price £2.30), widely used in Middle Eastern cuisine, can be used to flavour savoury recipes as well as in muesli or desserts. The firm recommends its beetroot powder (32g, trade £1.30) to add colour to dishes or give a healthy boost to homemade smoothies, while it says its French lavender (10g, trade £1.30) works well as an ingredient and a garnish. Meanwhile, Seasoned Pioneers has also doubled the weight of its pouches of La Mancha Saffron threads to 1g, with no increase in price.

Organic specialist Hambleden Herbs took inspiration from Russia for its two latest blends. Khmeli Suneli is a blend of eight herbs, made to an old Russian recipe, that the firm recommends using in soups or as a rub for roast meat. The product, which comes in 15g jars (cases of five cost £7.46), won the sauces and ingredients category at this year’s Soil Association Food Awards. Hambleden’s new Russian Tmin blend (70g jars, £11.20 for case of five) was the runner up in the category. The firm has also launched a chilli pepper mix (£14.95 for 5x40g) and a seafood rub (£11.20 for 5x60g).

After analysing its carbon footprint The Anglesey Sea Salt Company has switched to plastic pouches for its 100g packs of Halen Môn salt. The range used to be packaged in foil-lined cardboard tubes “They were sturdy and looked really nice, but they were also very hard to recycle and so mostly ended up as landfill,” says director Alison LeaWilson. “We weren’t happy about that. Our new pouches use 50% less material; the card header is easily recyclable and an increasing number of facilities have the capacity to recycle plastic bags, films and pouches.” The range comes packed in cases of 10, priced from £2 per unit for pure salt to £3.75 for flavours (RRP £3.05-£5.15). The company has also developed an Umami Halen Môn sea salt using seaweed and dried shiitake mushrooms supplied by Snowdonia-based The Mushroom Garden. It comes in cases of 24x40g (wholesale £3.54 each).

Gourmet Spice Company has added three new products to its range of spice blends. The producer’s chicken rub is made with freshly ground bay and thyme while its steak rub features elfast ...Arcadia, B both coffee and cacao to bold Spice extra boost meatiness. Its paella Cape Herb & s seasoning includes saffron, peppercorn tomatoes, herbs and ice kits Spanish paprika. All three Spicentice sp an pink salt come in 40g re-sealable diso Himalay Casale Para pots with a trade price of lt biscus sea sa Gourmet hi £1.75 and RRP £2.75. Devonshire

Top sellers…

le chillies oneers chipot Seasoned Pi

The Exquisite Range’s saffron is one of just 123 products that won three-star gold in this year’s Great Taste Awards. The spice, which is imported directly from Iran, is available in 1g and 0.5g glass jars, with trade prices of £4.50 and £2.40 respectively. The importer’s Farshad Kazemian explains how to prepare the saffron before use: “Spread your saffron on tin foil and place it in a warm oven for few minutes till it is dry, then use a pestle to grind your saffron to a fine powder. “Now mix your fine powder with four or five teaspoon of hot water and leave it to infuse to a deep red-orange colour.”

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


Kent’s Kitchen is proud to have recently won The Grocer New Product Award 2012 for Cooking Sauces. The Spicy Korma meal kit is a Kent’s Kitchen best seller and a traditional recipe with an added spicy kick. There are currently 12 meal kits in the range offering an easy 1-2-3 step to an authentic meal in just 20 minutes. No long shopping lists or lengthy preparation time – perfect for busy people who love quality food.

Baked cakes, biscotti, sweet and savory, raw products, unique chocolates and bespoke items for specialised diets. Phone: 0792 310 9170 email: The Bakehouse, 79 Egremont Street Glemsford, Suffolk, CO10 7SA

Available online at

IT’S NOT ABOUT SMART PACKAGING OR CLEVER MARKETING IT’S ALL ABOUT GREAT TASTE Join hundreds of other independent fine food shop around UK, and run a dedicated Great Taste promotion in-store. We will send you, free of charge, all you need to run a successful promotion enabling you to help customers understand what the awards are and helping you to sell more products with the distinctive Great Taste logo. What will you get?

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November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

The promotion will run from January onwards and you can sign up for your free promotional kit by contacting or calling her on 01963 824464.

product focus

seasonings & spices

Founded last year, Flavour Magic supplies a range of spice rubs and flavoured salts to the trade and direct to consumers via its website. The firm says its biggest seller so far is its smoked salt. This rock salt, which is well-suited to wild game and red meats, is smoked over oak and tumble roasted with garlic, shallots, coriander seeds, mustard seed and chilli. All of the company’s seasonings come in 120g packs with a trade price of £1.20 and an RRP of £3. Flavour Magic also sells thumb grinders for milling salts at £3 each with an RRP of £7.

Bespoke Foods has developed a number of lines for the preprepared herbs & spices range under its own Thai Taste brand. These new products – ginger, garlic, shallots and turmeric – all come in 114g jars. The price per unit ranges from 96p to £1.17. The firm has also re-packaged its kaffir lime leaves, Thai basil leaves, galangal and lemongrass into the same jar format.

Top sellers…

Manchester-based Adesso has branched out from dressings, dips and marinades to create a seven-strong range of seasonings and rubs spanning. As well as Mexican, French and Tandoori Masala seasoning blends, the producer has a hot and spicy Baharat Middle Eastern mix, combining paprika, cumin, cracked black pepper, coriander, cloves, nutmeg and cardamom. It also offers North African, sweet chilli and Raan lamb rubs. The latter was inspired by banquets from the time of Alexander the Great. The range comes in 60g containers, except the French seasoning (20g), with an RRP of £3.50.

Ingredients, Added Abingdon

r/whole ipotle powde Capsicana ch sweet Vera smoked El Rey de la icioso) paprika (Del g ella seasonin Delicioso pa tract sey vanilla ex Nielsen-Mas dukka blend Terra Rossa

Gordon Rhodes has expanded into new product categories with a series of rubs, coaters and sprinkles. Its Fire Cracker Quick Hot rub (chilli seeds, black peppers & fennel seeds) and Good Old Fashioned Vigorous rub (smoked paprika, black pepper & chilli seeds) have been developed for meat while its two Easy Crumb Easy Go crumb coaters – available in garlic & herb and chilli, lime & coriander – can also be used on seafood, poultry and roasted vegetables. The firm has also come up with a citrus & herb Hazy Lazy Summer Sprinkle and a Cajun blend called Lazy Hazy Southern Sprinkle. All six products have an RRP of £2.49.

Cornwall-based Secret Chef has re-launched with a new look and new name. The firm will now be know as Secret Chef – The Cornish Herb & Spice Co, as reflected in its new packaging, which has been updated with various colours to identify the different blends it offers. Due to customer demand, it has also launched a range of individual herbs and spices to complement its existing range of seasonings and meal kits.

Lovely Lemon is the latest addition to Uncle Roy’s gourmet salts available in 215g tall jars. The eight-strong range also includes Scotch Bonnet chilli, smokey Scotch whisky and wild garlic varieties. The Scottish producer’s old fashioned gravy salt (as well as its reduced sodium counterpart) is now available exclusively to the independent sector. Uncle Roy came up with product following the demise of Burdall’s gravy salt, improving the recipe by substituting sea salt in place of manufactured salt.

Cumbria-based Indian bistro and spice mix producer Starly’s Spice Co has launched an Indian street food range. Its Chicken 65, 20 Chilli, Tikka and Tandoori varieties all have a trade price of £2.

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


It’s not too late to stock up for Christmas with Bespoke Foods! For more information, get in touch: Phone: 020 7091 3200 Fax: 020 7091 3300



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GSC280 Ÿ High performance in a little space Ÿ 280mm blade Ÿ Highest energy efficiency due to electronic controlling Ÿ Powerful motor by Bizerba Ÿ Low operating costs due to innovative performance concept Ÿ No power consumption in standby mode Ÿ The depositing area remains cool and keeps the sliced product fresh Ÿ Simple and safe operating Ÿ Easy to clean thanks to Ceraclean surface finish Ÿ Guided outflow of meat and product juices Ÿ Deflector, remnant holder plate and blade cover are completely removeable Ÿ Setting of slice thickness with option to fine resolution Ÿ Removable sharpener for improved safety and hygiene Ÿ Hygienic design through one-part machine housing and completely closed

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November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10



All systems go MICHAEL LANE uploads the latest software and hardware available to shop and café operators AlfaRichi says Android tablets and terminals will be the future of EPoS in delis and farm shops and expects the new technology to replace more traditional cash registers and touch tills. The firm, which has been serving the coffee shop and bakery markets, is hoping to expand its speciality food retail customer base now that its tablet systems can be linked with scales and barcoded products. “The tablet does not need to be linked to a separate till; it replaces the terminal,” explains director Trevor Claybrough. “When a place is selling high quality food, having a big till takes up space. This takes up less space and also promotes a more modern image.” He adds that these systems afford retailers greater flexibility in serving their customers. A tablet can be detached from the till point and used to answer queries on the shop floor or even for queue busting during busy times. AlfaRichi’s Android systems run its AlfaPoint sales application while all the back office data is stored remotely on a Cloud server, which removes the need for, and cost of, keeping a server on-site. Up-to-the-minute sales and takings reports can be accessed and downloaded online at any time. Tablet systems can also be taken on the road to help retailers or producers who trade at markets. Claybrough says it is a more efficient way of keeping track of takings, while receipts can also be issued using a Bluetooth-linked printer.

Retail Computer Solutions (RCS) has developed a Time and Attendance software module for its Windows-based terminals. Members of staff just have to log in and out of pointof-sale terminals using a swipe card, barcode or keypad entry to register their hours. The software, which can be easily integrated into all of the RCS PoS systems, can be used to track staff at one site or across multiple outlets. It also assists retailers in back office tasks such as managing rotas and wage calculations as well as keeping track of sickness, holiday requests and unauthorised absence. “The key benefit is it’s a paperless method of tracking staff going in and out,” says RCS sales director James Gillam. “Sometimes staff are not as timeconscious as they could be. “Most deli owners probably can’t be there seven days a week and they might have Sunday staff coming in. If they pay by the hour, this is an easy way of managing staff hours.”

While it can be a profitable time for retailers, Christmas also brings the added complication of managing orders, particularly if stores have a butchery counter. Lakeland Computers has developed its Turkey Time software package to tackle this problem. Most retailers use a combination of duplicate books and spreadsheets to track orders, explains Lakeland MD Nigel Bogle. Bogle wrote this programme to cut out time-consuming data entry and be as simple to use as possible. The software, which can operate from a laptop, desktop or touchscreen terminal, allows members of staff to create a customer account, then add their ordered items and collection date with a few clicks. The operator will also be prompted to take a deposit before printing out a receipt with a barcode. This receipt, which will be scanned at the point of sale, retains details of deposits and the balance due on collection. This system, which also allows customers to pay off their

order in instalments in the run-up to collection, is already in place at Gog Magog Hills Farm Shop in Cambridgeshire. “It has completely exceeded expectations,” says Gog Magog’s MD Charles Bradford, whose operation takes around 2,500 customer orders for a variety of meats and products over the festive period. “All our butchery team are comfortably taking orders from customers. It’s improving their interaction and freeing up at least one member of staff, who would usually be filling in forms.” Bradford’s butchery team now wants to use it at other times of the year and it will also be deployed on the cheese counter and to manage ready-meal orders.

He says that the on-screen prompts to add other items to turkey orders (such as sausage meat and hams) also encourage his team to sell more items. The system is entirely standalone, compatible with scale manufacturers, including Avery Berkel, Bizerba, Dibal, Digi, and Metler Toledo, and can be integrated into an existing EPoS solution regardless of the supplier. “Not every business uses our Eureka POS solution and not everyone has an Avery or Bizerba scale,” says Nigel Bogle. “We recognise that, so we set out to solve a problem in a way that made Turkey Time available to all without relying on those retailers having any of our other products.” Aside from the order management functions the software can also run and manage a ‘savings club’ scheme. Customers can pay in a little each week, the retailer tracks this and can then produce their own vouchers to be used in store.

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012



November-December 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 10



Touchscreen terminal manufacturer J2 Retail Systems has diversified by launching its first branded thermal PoS printer, designed to reduce retailers’ operating costs and boost eco credentials. The J2 101 – bespoke-designed and built by Star Micronics EMEA – is the only printer in the UK to take 10cm diameter paper rolls (58mm and 80mm widths), providing 60% more paper than an average roll. The unit’s splashproof and dustproof casing has been built with the “toughest retail and hospitality environments” in mind but is also fast and quiet when printing. J2’s CEO and co-founder, Moray Boyd, says the printer is the first of a new range of J2-branded peripherals. “This is the first time we’ve attached our brand to a third-party peripheral and we don’t do so lightly,” he adds. “Users can expect the same performance and characteristics from their printer as they can from their J2 EPoS terminal – speed, resilience, reliability and costeffectiveness.”

North West Business Machines has supplied Samlesbury-based farm shop Huntley’s with scales and tills since 2009 and has now installed a new back office system with Total Control Premier software. This software, developed by Fidelity Systems, can be used across several sites by multiple employees and can produce advanced reports to track financial performance. Total Control Premier is also easily synched with Fidelity’s graphical point-of-sale tills and NWBM will also be installing a customer loyalty system managed by this software. Fidelity’s GPOS units are now completely compatible with the ICE loyalty scheme, which rewards purchases of sustainable products and is supported in many farm shops. Customers’ ICE cards can be easily swiped during a sale and the terminal will give them the opportunity to redeem existing points or add more before paying.

Three ways to pay at Deli of the the Year Within weeks of claiming the Olives Et Al Deli of the Year title, Nottingham’s Delilah was relocating its award-winning concept to a much larger site. Owner Sangita Tryner has swapped her cramped 1,000 sq ft deli-café for a cavernous listed building, formerly an HSBC bank, around the corner. As a result, she has an expanded 15-seater deli-bar and shop to look after and has also added a mezzanine level housing a 40-50 cover café area. This space is too large to service with one till but having separate tills for the café, bar, and shop would destroy the free flowing, flexible shopping experience Tryner nurtured in her previous outlet. Open Retail Solutions has come up with a system that will allow customers to pay for both eat-in and take-home items at any of the three Aures Galeo small footprint terminals it has installed on the premises. The firm’s managing director Graham Stamper tells FFD that ORS’s previous experience installing PoS systems in garden centres made it easy to adapt to

the challenge posed by the large connected space in Nottingham. “Somebody might walk in off the street, pick up a product and buy it,” says Stamper. “Then you get those at the counter who might have a coffee, some cake or a snack and also want to buy some items.” Cut and weighed products like cheese are also easily rung up as Avery Berkel XM scales are linked to the ORS system. Stamper says a customer can easily purchase something from each of the three areas with little effort for Delilah’s staff. “Somebody might come in, buy a bit of cheese, and say ‘Oh, is there a table free?’ Or they might be upstairs and then want to go downstairs for a coffee afterwards.” The system runs ORS’s Multi-retail software, which assists retailers with stock control, ordering and managing e-commerce sales. Although Delilah is not using them, Multi-retail also supports menu and advert screens on terminals and the use of tablets for table ordering.

Retailers who use Business Computer Projects’ (BCP) retail software can now give their customers the option to support a number of UK registered charities, including Macmillan, Alzheimer’s Society, RNIB and NSPCC. BCP systems feature The Pennies Foundation’s electronic charity box software, which allows customers to make donations when they pay by card. Customers are given a choice when paying for their shopping to round up their bill to the nearest pound. They just need to press ‘Yes’ on the Chip & Pin machine to donate this small change to charity. The money then goes to The Pennies Foundation, which distributes it to UK registered charities.

Sangita Tryner’s Delilah Fine Foods in Nottingham moved to a larger building and required a multiple terminal system to serve both shoppers and diners Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


Bryson’s of Keswick has been baking

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RetailReady ❝

No one should even consider entering any form of fine food retail without completing the Retail Ready course at The Guild of Fine Food. The two day course is brilliantly structured offering advice on every aspect of the business from insider experts and successful retailers. It gave me insight I was lacking, to feel fully confident about getting started.

Matthew Drennan, former editor of delicious. and aspiring deli owner 42

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

RetailReady is a two day course that will steer you through the minefield of opening and running a fine food store. The course is designed to equip managers of prospective, new or developing delis and farm shops with the business essentials of fine food and drink retailing. The next course takes place on March 12-13 2013. Visit retailready for more details and an application form. Call us to find out more on 01963 824464.

show preview

Glasgow to ring in the New Year Improvements at 2013’s first fine food show should suit buyers


eturning to the SECC in Glasgow, Scotland’s Speciality Food Show has a number of new additions to get buyers excited in the New Year. The show takes place on January 20-22 alongside Scotland’s Trade Fair and is now at the rear of the hall. Organiser Springboard Events, which is anticipating 4,000 visitors to the shows, says this will allow buyers easier access to the 120 exhibitors in attendance, a third of which are taking part for the first time. Among these firms are basketware and display firm Gadsby, Mrs Bridges preserves and Divine Deli Supplies. A host of returning exhibitors will also be showcasing new products on their stands. New for 2013 will be the

Scotland’s Speciality Food Show Best Product Awards, which will see a variety of food and drink categories judged by retailers and chefs. The top prize is free stand space next year, while all winning products will be on prominent display throughout the show. Meanwhile, a new seminar theatre aimed at retailers will see industry experts offering advice on a range of topics including social media and tastings. Springboard Events director Mark Saunders says: “As the only fine food trade show in Scotland we offer exhibitors a unique showcase for their products and provide retailers and buyers with a good variety of fine food and drinks which they might otherwise never learn about. “The new layout, the food awards and the seminar programme all offer buyers an even greater incentive to come and buy at this show.”

This year’s newcomers

Information for visitors Venue: Scottish Exhibition & Conference Centre, Finnieston, Glasgow How do I get there? Glasgow is served by Prestwick and Glasgow International Airports, with frequent connections by train from Prestwick to Glasgow Central Station, or 20 minutes by taxi from Glasgow International Airport. From Glasgow Central rail station, travel west on the low level to the SECC (5 mins journey). For drivers the SECC is well signposted from all directions. Leave the M8 at junction 19. How do I register for tickets? Entry is FREE for any food retailers, caterers or producers but they must register online at:

Ritchies of Rothesay Roast smoked salmon, smoked haddock, smoked trout and un-dyed kippers are just some of the products cured and smoked by hand using traditional methods by this Rothesay family.

Kwan’s Kitchen Restaurant Kwan’s Kitchen produces handmade Chinese condiments in the Scottish Borders. The firm, which has been in the Chinese restaurant business since the ’70s, has a retail range including black bean & garlic sauce, salt & pepper spice, Szechuan chilli oil and Chinese jasmine tea.

S’aussie Great Taste awardwinning S’aussie is a British company that makes Australasianinspired sauces using the freshest ingredients. It will be will be launching its Summer 2013 range, which includes Spicy Outback Barbie, Sizzling Sweet Chilli and Chilli & Red Pepper Chilli Sauces, at the show

Glenglassaugh Distillery Having only come back into production in 2008 after 22 years, this independently owned Highland distillery specialises in producing young whiskies from its base and bottling plant in Portsoy. Glenglassaugh will be launching its Revival and Evolution single malts (46% and 57% respectively) at the Glasgow exhibition.

The Wicked Chocolate Company Founded in 2005, the Wicked Chocolate Company produces fine quality chocolates, creamy truffles and chocolate for baking and drinking.

Silver Rocks Vodka by Classic Drinks Silver Rocks is a super-premium Polish vodka with a subtle and unforgettable taste that is true to the country’s tradition. It will be displaying its eyecatching packaging and point of sale material on its stand.

Chilli Papas Chilli Papas handblends spices so anyone can create an oil free and low fat curry. The company will be displaying its full range including 2-in-1 Mandalay, Yellow, Fajita, Vindaloo Mild, 2-in-1 Tikka, Balti, Chilli con Carne, Kachin and Vindaloo Medium/hot. The mixes’ strengths vary from mild (chilli-free) through to the very hot, catering for all tastes.


Davenport’s Chocolates Based on traditional, Swiss methods but with a contemporary twist, Davenport’s Chocolates will be launching its Chilli Truffles at SSFS 2013 as well as its Easter egg range – handmade using antique egg moulds – which features a Vintage Collection egg containing a selection of the chocolatier’s newest British centres.

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


Perfect for Cheese Stag Bakeries Award Winning Stornoway Water Biscuits are hand baked in a range of six delicious flavours, producing an exciting twist on the original Water Biscuit. Mouth-watering flavours include; Sweet Chilli, Parmesan and Garlic, Sea Salt and Black Pepper all of which accompany the ubiquitous cheeseboard or hors d'oeuvres. Available from Independents, Farmshops and Delis. Stag Bakeries Ltd Telephone: 01851702733 E-Mail:


November-December 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 10

show preview Who’s exhibiting? Aberfeldy Oatmeal Ally Bally Bee’s Ancient Recipes Anthony Rowcliffe & Son A Taste of Arran Atkins & Potts Blue Whole Blueberries Border Biscuits Brewhaha Tea

Chrystal’s Shortbread www.chrystalsshortbread. Claire MacDonald Foods Classic Drinks

Sheep Print

Cochrane Cottage Kitchen

Stahly Quality Foods

Coffee Direct (Scotland)

St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company

Cream O’Galloway Dairy Co

Gordon & Durward

Metro Drinks

The Cress Company

The Guild of Fine Food

Normande Distribution www.unenormandealondres.

Cullisse www.cullisserapeseedoil.

Gusto Catering

Bute Land

Davenports Chocolates www.davenportschocolates.

Cairn O’Mohr Country Wines

Divine Deli Supplies

Cambus O’May Cheese Co


Campbell’s Fudge

Edinburgh Tea & Coffee Company www.edinburghteacoffee.

Campbell’s Shortbread www.campbellsshortbread. Celtic Confectionery & Fine Foods

The Fine Cheese Co

Celtic Food Machinery

Fìor Fruit Merchants www. yourpiecebakingcompany. com

Chilli Papas

Gardiners of Scotland Ltd


Glenglassaugh Distillery

GreenCity Wholefoods Hebridean Sea Salt Hider Foods The Kindness Bakery www.thekindnessbakery. Kingscroft Logistics www.kingscroftlogistics. Kwan’s Kitchen Little Doone Foods Love Leaf Tea MacKays

Stewart Tower Dairy

Oisin’s Farm

Summer Harvest Oils www.summerharvestoils. Syruplicious

Organic Blending Company The Original Manx Fudge Factory The Patchwork Traditional Food Company Pentic Price Ticketing

Taylor Scotland Trotters Independent Condiments www.trottersindependent. Uncle Roy’s Comestible Concoctions

Ramsay of Carluke

Walkers Shortbread www.walkers-shortbread.

Reids of Caithness

W Gadsby & Son

Ross’s of Edinburgh

Wicked Chocolate Company www. thewickedchocolatecompany.

S’aussie Saladworx

Your Piece Baking Company www.

Products launching at Scotland’s Speciality Food Show Gardiners of Scotland A specialist in handmade confectionery, Gardiners will be launching 5 new exclusive presentation tins. Farrah’s of Harrogate Farrah’s of Harrogate offers an extensive range of own label gift confectionery including biscuits, fudge & toffee, sweets, preserves, nougat, chocolate and a new range of teas and coffee. Its newly launched embossed tin range will be on display.

Brewhaha Tea Glasgow’s Brewhaha Tea produces and exports tea around the world. The firm will to launch its biodegradable pyramid tea bags at SSFS. Cairn O’Mohr Producing a range of fruit wines, ciders and non alcoholic drinks from locally grown Perthshire berries, leaves, flowers and other fruits, Cairn O’Mhor will be introducing a citrus wine at SSFS to celebrate 25 years in business.

Trotter’s Independent Condiments Fife-based Trotters will be launching Mojito Marmalade, A Bloody Shame and Scottish Honey Mustard at its stand Campbells Shortbread This company that has been baking traditional shortbread for over 180 years and also makes a large range of butter cookies. It will be launching many new products this year. Summer Harvest Oils Recently featured on Great British Food

Revival for its raspberry fruit vinegars, Summer Harvest Oils also grows, presses and bottles cold pressed rapeseed oil at its farm in Central Scotland. It will be introducing its fruits vinegars to the trade at SSFS. Ramsays of Carluke Winner of a three-star gold award in 2012’s Great Taste for its black pudding, Ramsays also produces award-winning traditional Ayrshire bacon. New in 2013 will be black pudding fingers and a smaller size of haggis.

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012




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November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

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products, promotions & people

New roaster’s beans have 30-day lifespan




A new organic coffee roaster in Surrey is hoping S U P LI E P that his zealous approach to freshness will help him break into the crowded speciality coffee market. Edward Grace, the man behind Woking-based Beanberry Coffee, roasts every bag of his seasonal, organic coffee to order. And he is so adamant that it should be drunk fresh, that he will replace any stock that isn’t sold by retailers within 30 days of roasting. “It’s not as mad as it sounds,” Grace told FFD. “Basically it’s harder work but you have to justify that with higher prices. Once you have a relationship [with a retailer], you can roast to their monthly demand. “I work with shops that are prepared to work with me. If they don’t care about freshness,

I don’t care about them.” Currently, Grace sells his coffee – all of which is either single estate or single origin – in whole bean format direct to consumers online and to the trade. The 250g bags have trade prices of between £4.03 and £4.35 with RRPs ranging from £6.20 to £6.70. “I go to many stores and they already have lots of ground coffee,” said Grace. “Freshness has a huge impact on the quality of the cup and if you’re looking for fresh coffee, you

New start-up Joe’s Tea Company will supply its organic teas to Harvey Nichols during Christmas under a semi-exclusive nationwide deal. The firm, founded by entrepreneur Joe Kinch, has steadily gained a following by selling at London’s food markets The range, which features lines called The Earl of Grey, Proper Peppermint and Ever-So-English Breakfast, is also sold in a number of small independents.

meatballs and has an RRP of £2.50£4 depending on the type of meat. Meanwhile, Kezie’s 4oz venison, wild boar and kangaroo burgers are now available in a gluten-free format. The two-burger packs (220g) have RRPs of between £2.59 and £3.13. All of Kezie Foods’ products are supplied frozen by next day delivery.

Camel, bison and zebra are among the exotic options


Halen Môn, the Anglesey Sea Salt Company, is seeking S U P LI E P distributors for an unlikely new product that is drawing the attention of chefs, food producers and mixologists. Debuted at the Abergavenny Food Festival in September, oak smoked water is the latest spin-off for the Welsh business, whose salt is used by top chefs and name-checked as an ingredient on a growing number of premium food products. The company produced its first retail batch of smoked Welsh water at its oak smokery near Brynsiencyn, in mid-September. It comes in 100ml and 500ml, pouches, which wholesale for 50p and £2.50 respectively, as well as larger 1litre and 5litre sizes (£3.25 and £12.50). Alison Lea-Wilson, who runs Halen Môn with husband David, told FFD: “I'm confident we'll get some listings from distributors as there is truly nothing else like it on the market. “Chefs I spoke to at the Restaurant Show [at Earls Court in September] are interested in using it for marinating and poaching.” The product is already being used by Heston Blumenthal’s chefs at The Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire. Lea-Wilson added: “I also spoke to food manufacturers who like the idea of using it in mash or sauces, especially as the use of artificial smoke flavouring is being phased out. “Finally, mixologists are very excited as they currently do a lot of smoky cocktails using smoke guns which are apparently a nightmare vis-a-vis smoke detectors in the bars and it can also introduce a bitter note into the drink. I gave samples to Ping Pong amongst others and their man is pretty sure it'll make the drink smoky in a better way.” The Lea-Wilsons have also tried the product as ice cubes in whisky and to enhance the drink’s flavour.

For meatballs with more bounce, try kangaroo... Kezie Foods is now offering meatballs in a wide range of exotic meats and it has also developed gluten-free versions of several of its burgers. The Scotland-based company’s meatballs are available in the majority of the exotic meats that it already sells, including bison, kangaroo, reindeer, wildebeest, wild boar, goat, camel and zebra. Each 240g pack contains 12



Chefs keen on smoked water R


don’t go for ground. In addition to shelf-ready bags, Grace is in discussion with several retailers in his local area about setting up self-service bins of coffee beans in-store. As part of the deal, Beanberry will provide the gravity bins in return for an increased trade price to cover the cost. Retailers would not have to pay for any coffee that isn’t sold. These bins will feature Beanberry’s branding as well as the information on roasting style and provenance (backed up by QR codes) that is provided on all of the roaster’s bags. “People who buy expensive coffee do care what they are buying,” said Grace. “What I’m trying to do is create a specialty business. I don’t want to be roasting commercial grade coffees and selling them for £3 a bag.” All of Beanberry’s beans are certified organic by the Soil Association and the range currently includes single origin and single estate coffees from Bolivia, Brazil, Ethiopia, Guatemala and Honduras, as well as two seasonal blends: Javascript for espresso and 8AM Blues for filter brewing. These coffees will change as the seasons vary. Beanberry also supplies the foodservice trade with 500g and 1kg bags (£15/kg) although it does not run a free replacement policy for cafés and restaurants.


Beanberry founder Edward Grace: ‘If retailers don’t care about freshness, I don’t care about them.’

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


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Let us help promote your image for 2013 your brand will live on after it leaves you – all down to your packaging. Gift packaging is an excellent way to add value to your existing product range. Contact us for details on our range covering: boxes, bags, point of sale and gift packaging items. Tel: 01294 313348


November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10


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A promotional feature for Rowcliffe

Shaping tomorrow's retailers 2012 has been a busy year for gift packaging company WBC. They merged with specialist printed jute bag supplier Canby bags and their latest venture sees them teaming up with visual retail consultants Metamorphosis Group on a joint project that offers independent retailers and pop-up shops the support, training and products needed to completely transform their retail environment. With a new collection of ‘offthe-shelf ’ merchandising units and tailor-made consultancy packages including window display concepts, store plans, brand identities, and visual retail training tailored to the individual store, the partnership aims to help local stores transform their businesses and improve profit margins by offering a real alternative to the multiples. Everyone could use a fresh pair of eyes! Marketing Director James Hayward explains, “For more than 25 years we’ve championed small business in the UK, whether facilitating training for associations or simply offering customers the ability to order small volumes, fast. We’ve grown our range in order to keep up with their needs.” As the retail market becomes increasingly competitive retailers are consequently forced to find new ways of generating footfall and securing ‘the sale’. Hayward says “our customers are often fighting for survival – they have to think outside the box and offer something their customers won’t find in the supermarkets. That means the tools they need to achieve this have diversified; for us into some 850+ products lines” The Metamorphosis Group has an impressive track record for transforming failing and struggling businesses. They have delivered training and development programs for companies as big as Habitat, and as

WBC, the UK’s one-stop trade supplier of gift packaging and retail display to the independent food and drinks markets, just got bigger.

Visual retail consultants the Metamorphosis Group built an Italian market themed showroom for Sardinian deli wholesaler, Vallebona. Using a collection of WBC vintage materials from the #Propshop along with retail stands from the Kingsley range, they transformed an empty space into a versatile pop-up market. small but perfectly formed as your local store next door. Using an effective combination of targeted research, customer psychology studies, and a lot of hands on experience, Metamorphosis has seen retailers watch their profits increase with very minimal outlay – often none at all. Hayward says “if anyone knows what customers need practically by way of retail display, it’s them. They live, eat and breathe this day in day out. It was vital that when it came to developing the range, we involved them in every step of the design process. We’re excited about the finished range”

The Range A simple collection of fixtures, fittings and ‘off-the-shelf’ retail display solutions specifically designed with independents in mind: •W  ooden display stands flat-packed for easy assembly •K  it items of wicker display trays •W  ooden trays and vintage fruit crates • T he #PropShop of one off antique pieces for window dressing and display •M  erchandising chalkboards, pricing cards, POS clips and card holders And introducing: the Kingsley Range Free standing merchandising units

handmade in the UK. Metal frames with lockable castors and wooden shelves made in Brixton from reclaimed floor boards. The industrial and rustic finish creates the wow factor for any in-store display. ON SALE NOW Metamorphosis’ top tips from the merchandiser • E nsure customers can find products easily, without having to search for them. •C  heck displays daily so they’re exactly how you want them to be. • E ncourage link sales and create clear product groups. • E nsure as many products as possible can be seen at eye-level. • If ticketing and signage standards are lacking, update them now using point of sale and blackboard signage. • E nsure the external part of your building clearly states what you have to offer • T ake risks, be bold and raise your head above the competition @wbc @metamorphosisgr @vallebona

Quote CA1055X to receive a £10 discount off your next order

Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012







Beetroot juice



Aberdeenshire’s The Kindness Bakery has launched a newly branded range, featuring original and Stilton flavoured cheese straws as well as shortbread rounds in 150g boxes. It also includes shortbread bites and oat cake bites in original and mature cheddar flavours, all three of which come in 175g boxes. EDITE CR





The drinks manufacturer has expanded its Beet It range of organic beetroot juices with two new varieties. Beet It with Passion (a blend of passion fruit and beetroot juices) and Beet It with Ginger (a mix of beetroot and carrot juice with ginger) both come in 750ml bottles (trade price £20.20 per case of 12). Although the added ingredients alter the distinctive taste of the original, the firm says that both of the new drinks are still 80% beetroot juice and retain a healthy dose of dietary nitrates. EDITE CR

Newly branded biscuits






Healthy water MUNE







The Northamptonshire-based firm has created a range of Belgian milk chocolate gifts, sold under its Molten Chocolates brand. Each box (180g, RRP £16) consists of a hand-piped chocolate lattice heart dusted in edible metallic blush and one of nine themed chocolate plaques. Each gift set is handcrafted using at least 33.6% cocoa solids in the company’s commercial kitchen in Towcester. Unique Chocolate also produces bespoke Belgian chocolate lollipops and business cards, which can be decorated with any combination of photo, message or logo.

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10


The French, Italian and Greek food specialist is now offering pure goose fat





The latest addition to The Miniature Bakery’s range is a Gold Collection pack (225g, RRP £10) containing a number of the Yorkshire firm’s milk, dark and white chocolate biscuits. These include a plain chocolate orange snap: two brandy snap biscuits with an orange butter-cream filling fully coated in plain chocolate. The pack also features a hazelnut crisp half-coated in plain chocolate, a fully coated milk chocolate crisp and The Miniature Bakery’s milk chocolate vanilla snap. EDITE CR

Personalised Belgian chocolate






Cognac foie gras

1 CHEF 4 U The man behind the duck gizzards confit that took three stars at this year’s Great Taste Awards – and the title of Best Speciality in London & the South East – is now offering a unique foie gras to the retail trade. London-based French chef Tom Maeli, who specialises in all things duck, was commissioned by cognac giant Remy Martin to produce a foie gras using its XO Excellence and has been selling it direct to private clients. He currently sells it in 1kg and 500g pieces (£192 and £100 respectively) but hopes to have 250g packs ready for Christmas. EDITE CR


The firm produces two varieties of its healthy water – free from artficial sweeteners, flavours, or preservatives – in 500ml recyclable bottles (trade price £1.25 each). Original, which has been developed to boost the immune system against colds and flu, is flavoured with montmorency cherry, elderberry, lemon, ginger, and manuka honey 10+. The Revive flavour EDITE CR

Goose fat


The firm has added two chutneys to its range of cheese accompaniments. Its spicy strawberry & caramelised onion and blackberry & hot chilli chutneys both come in cases of 12 jars (trade £2.35, RRP £3.95 each). The company says these creations work with mature cheddar and certain types of blue cheese. EDITE CR




Fruit chutneys

Biscuit collection


contains coconut, pineapple, blood orange, lemongrass, and nettle, which Mune says will provide immune support for hayfever and allergies. Both drinks provide 50% of the recommended daily allowance of vitamins B3, B5, B6, B9, B12, C, D3, and zinc.







Following the launch of its coconut water in the UK last year, Go Coco has added three flavoured versions of the drink, which is said to have a number of health benefits. Lychee & lemon, pineapple and mango coconut water all come in 330ml bottles (£14.16 for case of 12). Both the pineapple and natural (£17.52 for case of 12x500ml) won two-star gold awards in Great Taste 2012. EDITE CR





Smoked humous



The firm says its new wholegrain buckwheat flour is traditionally used to make blini drop scones, gallette pancakes, and pasta. The buckwheat, easily identified by its dark brown triangular seeds, is milled and de-husked to create a calico coloured flour. The product may contain traces of gluten due to an adjacent wheat storage and processing area. It is available to retailers in 1kg cream and orange bags (trade price for case of 5 is £10) or 25kg catering bags (£46). “With a delicate, slightly nutty flavour, Buckwheat Flour imparts a natural sweetness and warm aroma to baking,” says Doves Farm CEO Clare Marriage. “I use it in cakes, biscuits and for making pasta.” EDITE CR

(graisse d'oie) in re-sealable 300g jars, which it imports from south west France. During the run-up to Christmas in November the product will have a wholesale price of £1.99 (RRP £2.95-£3.50).


what's new



Top chefs tell CLARE HARGREAVES their deli essentials

Kentish farm revives chocolate cobnuts

Gill Meller Head chef, River Cottage HQ, Axminster, Devon

Fish4Ever anchovies in organic olive oil

The ethics of food production are always at the forefront of our minds here so we only use this brand which sources anchovies sustainably fished by small community boats off the Sicilian coast. They’re really good quality – nice and fleshy – which could be why they’ve won gold in the Great Taste awards. We use them in our beetroot, anchovy & egg salad and in our classic salsa verde. The anchovies provide a depth of flavour, but without a fishy note. I also put a couple of fillets into my tomato sauce and my mayonnaise. Again, the anchovy adds a magical je ne sais quoi.

The cobnuts are enrobed in single estate Ecuadorian chocolate By MICHAEL LANE

After a 10-year hiatus, nut specialist Potash Farm is re-launching its chocolate covered roasted Kentish cobnuts – dubbed ‘Plattinums’ – and the producer is targeting listings across the UK. The nuts, which are lightly caramelised before being enrobed in 70% Ecuadorian single estate chocolate, come in 25g and 100g bags (trade £2 and £4.75 + VAT) as well as 125g display boxes (£6.50 + VAT). The product takes its name from the farm’s century-old six acre cobnut plantation or ‘platt’ in St Mary’s Platt, Kent, which is owned and run by Alexander Hunt. Hunt, who is also chairman of The Kentish Cobnut Association, told

FFD that while his range of cobnut products had a strong following locally, he has high hopes for getting the Plattinums listed nationally. “The minute you get out of the south east, a lot less people have heard of cobnuts,” he said. “Our [stockist] parameters are all of Kent, a bit of East Sussex, a bit of East Surrey and London. I feel it’s one of the products that could go further afield.” As well as growing the nuts, Hunt stores and cracks them but subcontracts roasting and caramelising, while local firm Linton Chocolates carries out the enrobing. Hunt said that the production process had been simplified from previous efforts and the chocolate being used this time was better.

Algarve importer seeks UK listings By MICHAEL LANE

Importer Sol e Campo is looking to gain listings with independents for its extra virgin olive oil and hand harvested sea salt from the Algarve region of Portugal. The salt, produced in the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve by artisan firm Marisol, is raked out of salt pans by hand every 3-4 weeks and left to dry in the sun. It comes in fine, medium or coarse grains in 1kg cloth bags (trade case of 15 bags, price £3.30 per bag). Marisol also produces Flor de Sal – newly formed crystals skimmed by hand on a daily basis – that is

Julian Temperley cider brandy

We use this fruity brandy whenever a recipe calls for a classic French brandy. It’s made just up the road in Somerset and we’ve used it ever since we’ve been at River Cottage HQ - it’s amazing! We buy it by the case. We use it, for example, in our prune & chocolate fondant, in which prunes are soaked in cider brandy for six hours then chopped and added to a fondant mix. I also love a dash in my devilled kidneys – I sauté the kidneys in a hot pan, add cider brandy to flambé, then cider vinegar, Worcester sauce, mustard, a teaspoon of crab apple jelly and a splash of double cream.

Ticklemore Harbourne Blue goats’ cheese

It’s unusual to find a blue goats’ milk cheese that’s matured like a cows’ cheese. This blue, made by Ben Harris at Ticklemore Cheese Dairy in Devon, has a wonderfully fresh taste. When you first eat it you think it’s a cows’ milk cheese, then you encounter its wonderful goaty undertones and lovely complexity from ageing. Harbourne Blue is best raw on a cheeseboard – it’s far too good to cook with. We buy ours through Hawkridge cheese merchants.

Capreolus cold-smoked wild venison

available to the trade in 100g and 200g cloth bags (trade £2.20 and £3.80) as well as 100g and 200g stoneware pots (£7.65 and £9.55) Sol e Campo also imports extra virgin olive oil from the 20 hectare Monterosa Estate, which has some trees that are 2,000 years. The estate produces four single variety oils– Picual, Maçanilha, Cobrancosa and Verdeal – and a blend, all of which are available in 500ml and 250ml bottles (trade £11.50 and £6.85 each). It also offers a tasting box set (£6.85), containing a 25ml bottle of each oil.

This lovely venison, also local, is proof that it’s not just pigs’ legs that make good ham. Cured with roasted spices and port wine, then air-dried and cold-smoked over oak, it has a wonderful dark claret colour, a taste that’s not overly gamey, and a texture that’s light and lean without being dry. Anyone who loves a good proscuitto will love this. Let it speak for itself rather than wasting it in a pie. I serve it with some good oil and fresh sourdough. Add a dollop of fresh plum compote and you’ll go to heaven.

Sharpham Park pearled spelt

We use this local spelt in lieu of pearl barley or rice. On our Edible Seashore days, for example, our forager John Wright brings back wild oysters so we make oyster and gut weed risotto using spelt. Treat it like a risotto rice, adding shallots and garlic. We steam the oysters open and save the juice to add to the stock. I also use Sharpham’s pearled spelt in our black pudding – its flavour and texture are earthy and nutty.

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Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012

GRU_Annonce_99x29_EN.indd 1


11.06.12 17:59


Organic growth Deli of the Month


Edinburgh chain Earthy set up its first organic store as consumer interest and spending power were nosediving. Five years on it has three outlets across the city and, as co-owner Pete Jackson tells us, has ambitious expansion plans.



he team behind Earthy in Edinburgh probably couldn’t have picked a worse year than 2008 to open a shop dedicated to organic, local and ethical food. Just a few months after the business launched in the south of the city, Lehman Brothers in the US collapsed and the world economy went into free-fall. More importantly (from Earthy's point of view, at least), 2008 was the year that the boom in organics came to a shuddering halt, with sales falling off a cliff the following year in what was the start of a downward spiral that continues today. So I was intrigued to hear earlier this year that Earthy had opened a third outlet in the Scottish capital – a gleaming new shop, café and 100-seater restaurant in the upmarket Canonmills area of the city – joining its first store close to the Meadows and a second in Portobello, which opened last year. How had Earthy managed to build a small chain, which this year is expected to turnover close to £4m, when on paper it should be struggling? Pete Jackson, one of the

November-December 2012 · Vol.13 Issue 10

founders of the company, is more than happy to reveal Earthy’s secret when I visit him at the company’s first shop, although it turns out to be nothing more groundbreaking than having a good business model to start with and adapting it where necessary. “People are cautious of where they spend their money, but if you’ve got a niche you will get support,” he says. “As the market has dropped out of organics, I think we’ve shown there is still a niche there for it. But now we source a lot more local. The split between local and organic sales is probably 60:40. It was the other way round when we first opened. Local sourcing is the future for us.” Jackson has a horticultural background and worked for several years at Dobbies garden centres before Tesco acquired the chain. He set up Earthy with local entrepreneur Dirk Douglas and organic farmer Patricia Stephen, whose produce is sold in the shop. A private investor has also played an important role in the company’s expansion, helping to finance the new stores.

Reminiscent of Bill’s in Lewes and Brighton, with theatrical displays of fruit and vegetables, crusty artisan breads and tins of ethically correct pulses, Earthy feels like a cross between a greengrocer, wholefoods store and urban farm shop. Jackson says it aims to offer a “farmers’ market feel under one roof in the city”, working with over 100 different suppliers, including 14 local farms, and stocking 5,500 products. The first shop is housed in a less-than-glamorous building, which was previously a derelict print works, set back from the street with parking for 20 cars, a 40-seater café on the ground floor and a 1,000 sq ft shop upstairs. It’s an unusual lay out – you would expect the café to be on the first floor – but it reflects the way that business has evolved since it first opened. “Originally the ground floor was a warehouse and upstairs was retail with a mini café,” explains Jackson. “We spent £15,000 developing online shopping and were planning on doing home deliveries, but we quickly realised that Earthy was all about being a destination. You come for the experience – the good

products, promotions & people Pete Jackson: 'People are

cautious of where they spend their money, but if you've got a niche you will get support'

coffee, sitting down and reading a newspaper, before doing your shopping. The café was basically mobbed every day with people queuing to get a table. That’s when we realised the warehouse had to go and we set up a much larger café downstairs.” Thanks in part to this expansion, café sales now account for roughly 40% of sales, up from 20% when Earthy first opened. The menu features sandwiches, soups, quiches, tarts and salad platters, using produce from the store, with an emphasis on bright colours and bold flavours in dishes such as beetroot, goats’ cheese and wood-sorrel salad. Plans are afoot to extend the café operation even further after the company acquired a car park at the back of the shop, which it plans to

kitchen. The way he plays with flavours and his genuine love of food. He gets an amazing buzz at his shops and delis. We don’t want to copy anything, we have our own take on things, but he’s definitely an inspiration.” Longer term, Jackson is looking beyond the city centre. “My plan is to have something on the edge of town in the form of a farm, which we would convert into a shop, restaurant, cookery school, greenhouses, polytunnels and even accommodation, all based around the love of food. “I really want to reinforce that link between the produce and the consumer. You have to have a unique selling point otherwise you end up competing with the supermarkets. I’ve seen people invest millions in farm shops and they are We're 20 steps away from a Tesco struggling Metro here, but I'd open another store because they next to a supermarket tomorrow. Our don’t have that An edge-ofethos is totally different to theirs, so USP. town destination it's important we hold onto it. plus two to four shops in a city turn into a walled garden complete centre could work in other places with polytunnel where diners can sit in Scotland and the rest of the UK. amongst the produce that is being I wouldn’t hesitate to drop Earthy served on their plate and is for sale into Glasgow or Aberdeen.” in the shop. The company certainly feels “My vision is to be the ripe for further expansion. A lot Ottolenghi of Scotland,” says of thought has gone into the Jackson. “He’s a real hero of mine Earthy brand and ethos. Each and the people who work in our letter of the name stands for

on a new role overseeing buying one of its six founding principles: and promotions across the group. ethical, approachable, responsible, Regular training evenings for trustworthy, hard-working and staff are also being introduced with young at heart. the Canonmills restaurant closed There’s also some pretty slick down on the odd Monday night merchandising in-store that you so that staff can be taken through would expect to see in a much the menu by the chefs, role-play larger chain. On my visit, a seasonal customer service and exchange promotion called ’share autumn pointers on up-selling. with Earthy’ is backed up by quirky It’s all part of making sure that posters, arty displays of squashes Earthy doesn’t lose its core values as and cookery books left open at the it expands, says Jackson. “We’re 20 relevant recipes. steps away from a Tesco Metro here The company’s range of and so is Canonmills, but I’d open ’Earthy Everyday’ products, which another store next to a supermarket are denoted by a yellow ticket, tomorrow. Our ethos is totally also echo some of the tactics of different to theirs, so it’s important much larger retailers, particularly we hold onto it,” he says. Waitrose’s Essentials brand. That’s not true of all Shop manager Archie McDiarmid supermarkets, however. Whole Foods explains that it was introduced to Market, which famously trades on counter perceptions that Earthy was its commitment to sourcing organic, an expensive place to shop. “We local and ethical foods, opened a basically walked the store and looked store in Glasgow last year and poses at every category and how we could a potential threat. cut prices on everyday products,” “That really put the wind up he says. “We normally work on a us,” admits Jackson. “There was margin of 35%, so we’ve had to talk of them opening in Edinburgh, take a hit on some of the lines, but I think they’ll continue to down to 20-25% in some cases, concentrate on London. Not that it and we’ve worked with suppliers to really matters. They don’t necessarily see if they can shed a little as well. have the love, ethic and energy that It means we’ve got products like we can offer. Being an American Yorkshire Provender soup for £2.35. brand, they can make it look fine In Waitrose it’s £2.39.” for the opening day, but they can’t Expanding to three shops has react as quickly as we can. If we do also helped Earthy in this regard, launch the farm idea, then that’s he adds. “There are definitely something they definitely won’t be economies of scale to be had. Our able to compete with.” organic tins of tomatoes from Suma are just 75p each. The reason we can afford to sell them at that price is that we are now able to order a pallet at a time, which cuts ST-STOCKs Earthy MU out a handling e & juniper vest brambl charge of about Summer Har 15p a can. Being dressing and parsnips bigger means we nic carrots Elder's orga can go direct to oked salmon Creelers sm suppliers rather eak pies than wholesalers. Findlater's st e n charcuteri Coffee prices, for Game veniso Great Glen example, have ganic milk Graham's or been rising, but we matoes c canned to have been able to Suma organi go direct to Equal ts chilli jam Tracklemen Exchange and that skipjack tuna Fish 4 Ever has taken a lot of e Roots from Vintag pressure of us. We Giol Prosecco t Brewing are looking for more from Stewar lyrood IPA ol H opportunities like ellis se from IJ M that.” Dunlop chee As the number of staff has mushroomed from five in 2008 to around 60 today, better management structures and training have also become more important. The new Canonmills branch has its own operations manager, who heads up the restaurant side of the business, while McDiarmid is due to take Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012


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Vol.13 Issue 10 · November-December 2012



November-December 2012 路 Vol.13 Issue 10

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FFD December 2012  

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