June 2018 Volume 19 Issue 5 gff.co.uk
Blueprint for success? How The Deli at No. 5 has taken the path to pure retailing
ALSO INSIDE: Jams & preserves Tapping into the Grey Pound SaltPig Curing Co
BEST PRESERVES BRAND 2016-2017 Voted for by the readers of Fine Food Digest
BEST PRESERVES BRAND 2017-2018 Voted for by the readers of Fine Food Digest
Mrs Darlington’s Preserves - a spectrum of flavours to suit all tastes The Mrs Darlington’s colour spectrum started with yellow in the 1980’s, when Marion Darlington began making her unique Lemon Curd in the farmhouse kitchen. Since then, our rainbow of product colours has grown to over 80 with our range of Jams, Curds, Marmalades, Chutneys and Pickles. Whatever your favourite colour is, there’s a Mrs Darlington product to match!
To find out more please visit our website at www.mrsdarlingtons.com 2
June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
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CONTENTS Just a teaspoon in your smoothie or added to a salad dressing will turn your day around MY MAGIC INGREDIENT
46 5
THE BIG PICTURE
7
NEWS
Zoe Adjonyoh, of Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen, extols the virtues of baobab powder
NEVER MIND THE MILLENNIALS…
16 OPINION Sam Rosen-Nash advises on NPD, Editor’s Choice
13
21 CHEESEWIRE French awards to champion farmhouse makers, natural cheese-making
A look at the Grey Pound and how older customers are still important to speciality food shops
We used to order Polish cucumbers in brine by the pallet. It’s crazy how much it’s changed. DELI OF THE MONTH
50
Barbakan Delicatessen & Bakery
EDITORIAL
ADVERTISING
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
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28 CATEGORY FOCUS Jams & preserves, cakes, home baking and savoury snacks 35 CUT & DRIED Meet the chef-turned-charcutier behind the SaltPig Curing Co 43 THE PRODUCERS Goupie’s switch to private limited 45 SHELF TALK Cotswold Fayre unveils Ministers of Taste, Ross & Ross BBQ boxes 54 GUILD OF FINE FOOD NEWS
Published by The Guild of Fine Food Ltd gff.co.uk © The Guild of Fine Food Ltd 2018. Reproduction of whole or part of this magazine without the publisher’s prior permission is prohibited. The opinions expressed in articles and advertisements are not necessarily those of the editor or publisher.
Turn to page 54 for news from the Guild
Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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The natural choice for cheese
Voted Best Biscuit Brand 2017 by independent retailers
4
June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
THE BIG PICTURE
Tickets, please! The Grade-II listed former Edwardian ticket hall of Fulham Broadway tube station is the Ć“UVW LQ D VHULHV RI VLWHV LQ /RQGRQ RSHUDWHG E\ Market Halls. 2SHQHG LQ HDUO\ 0D\ WKH Ĺ?IRRG DQG GULQN hubâ€? features a communal dining area for PRUH WKDQ SHRSOH DQG D KRVW RI YHQGRUV LQFOXGLQJ &ODXGHĹ?V 'HOL 3UHVV &RIIHH DQG <DUG 6DOH 3L]]D 0DUNHW +DOOV LV VHW WR RSHQ WZR PRUH VLWHV LQ WKH &DSLWDO LQFOXGLQJ D UHGHYHORSPHQW of the former BHS store on Oxford Street – ELOOHG DV WKH Ĺ?8.Ĺ?V ODUJHVW IRRG KDOOĹ?ĹŠ WKDW ZLOO DOVR LQFRUSRUDWH UHWDLO HOHPHQWV Photograph: Jim Stephenson
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NEWS
Farm shops need better CCTV to counter ‘bags for life’ shoplifters By Andrew Don
Farm shop owners have urged fellow proprietors to upgrade their CCTV and security equipment to fight a growing threat from shoplifters aided by bags for life. Maria Henshaw, owner of Mainsgill Farm Shop, in East Layton, North Yorkshire, told FFD that bags for life were a “nightmare” because criminals were using them to pilfer stock. She said where customers previously used supplied baskets, they are now gathering shopping with their own bags before they get to the checkout – a system that can obviously be exploited by thieves. After a reporting a shoplifting incident in April, Henshaw was visited by local police, who told her the problem was widespread. Georgie Mason, who owns Gonalston Farm Shop in Nottinghamshire,
Mainsgill Farm Shop has installed high def CCTV to thwart shoplifters
has experienced similar problems. She said: “We’ve got some incredibly good footage of a lady coming in with her own shopping bags, her handbag on her arm, a Gonalston Farm shopping bag on her arm and then the basket in her hand on the same arm. “She would put the cheap things in the basket, and the expensive things in the bag.”
Popty is top of Welsh bakeries Gwynedd business Popty was named the Best Wholesale Bakery Of The Year in The Food Awards Wales 2018. Directors Gwyn and Marian Williams (pictured) received the award at a special ceremony, held at the Exchange Hotel in Cardiff at the end of April. Other key winners were Cardiff’s Parsons Bakery, (Retail Bakery of the Year), Little Grandma’s Kitchen (Welsh Produce
of the Year), Rhosyn Farm Produce from Blaen y Coed (Meat Supplier of the Year), and Cardigan Bay Fish, which won Seafood Supplier of the Year. Irfan Younis, chief executive of awards organiser Creative Oceanic, said the scheme aimed to acknowledge and thank those representing the Welsh food industry, “enhancing its reputation national and internationally”.
Mason now insists all customers hand over their bags for packing so that if there is anything in them that should not be, checkout staff tactfully remove it for totting up. “Shoplifters are getting cleverer and cleverer and the deterrent gets less and less,” she said. Mason added that it was important for owners to invest in good quality CCTV and train staff to
IN BRIEF ensure they knew what to look out for. Mainsgill Farm Shop has invested in CCTV that provides highdefinition images to make identification of criminals easier for police. It has also installed a number-plate recognition system and is now looking at technology that texts the owners as soon as a number plate connected with a previous crime is detected again on-site. Henshaw said: “The quality of the CCTV is essential for catching criminals and the car number plate recognition attached to the CCTV logs every car coming in and going out. “The other week people from Scotland came in, went off to Scarborough for the weekend and they were caught at Thirsk on the way back by the police. “When they come in, the police comment about the quality of the pictures we have.”
Van Doesburg’s, a deli in Church Stretton, Shropshire, is up for sale as a going concern for offers in excess of £100,000. The 712 sq ft deli has been trading from its town centre location since 2002. Owlet has won the 2018 National Apple Juice Competition at The National Fruit Show, picking up two firsts and a second, giving it the highest aggregate marks across all categories. Its Cox & Bramley won first in the Blended Apple class. Selfridges has claimed “a UK first” with the launch of a new vegan gelato treat that it says looks like a real avocado. Made by Snowflake Luxury Gelato, it comprises 60% hass avocado set in the original avocado skin and includes an edible nut butter stone.
FSA refutes ‘nonsense’ about regulation plan The Food Standards Agency (FSA) has struck back against speculation about its plans for future food regulation, including rumours about privatisation and dropping local authorities. Heather Hancock, FSA chair, told the Westminster Food and Nutrition Forum, in London that she had heard “some nonsense” talked about Regulating our Future, a long-term change programme running through to 2020. “The worst is the assertion that we are privatising regulation, or allowing self-regulation”, she said, adding that this “could not be further from the truth”. “We want businesses to stand up more to their legal obligation to provide safe, honest food. We want
them to share the evidence a critical role for them in that the do so, evidence that assurance and they would is reliable and robust and retain responsibility for trustworthy.” enforcement of food By doing this the FSA safety and food standards and local authorities could regulations. more effectively identify risks and focus resources on getting those risky businesses to do the right thing or punish them, she said. “I’ve also heard that we’re cutting local authorities out of the regulatory system. Again, nonsense,” she said. “I cannot imagine a food regulation system without local authorities at the heart.” FSA chair Heather Hancock There was Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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NEWS
CYBER CRIME
Latest big retail merger could strengthen speciality sector By Andrew Don
Consolidation among the grocery sector’s giants – including the recently proposed Sainsburys-Asda merger – could prove to be good news for independent retailers and their suppliers, according to several industry figures. Retailers and distributors told FFD that this latest deal, which follows Tesco’s recent tieup with Booker and the Coop’s take-over of Nisa, will only strengthen their point of difference. Paul Hargreaves, chief executive of distributor Cotswold Fayre, said that consolidation led to a reduction of individual product lines for efficiency reasons, as evidenced when Booker bought Budgens and Londis. “We, and I’m sure lots of other speciality food suppliers and wholesalers, benefited because they couldn’t get the range of products they wanted to
have a point of difference.” Hargreaves said Budgens owners were not going to want own-label Tesco products on their shelves and Nisa retailers he had spoken to did not want Co-op on their shelves. “It’s more good news than bad news, certainly.” He cautioned, however, that Nisa stores he had spoken to seemed to think they would have a better range of fresh fish and meat, as a result of the Co-op deal. Peter Marsh, chief executive of Planet Organic, thought farm shops should concentrate on a point of difference. “I’m not sure it has to be speciality, but it has to be different otherwise I might as well go to my local supermarket. That can come through the brands they sell, the products they have access to, local, all sorts of avenues but you’ve got to know your customer and provide them with an alternative.” Huseyin Genc, who
‘Filthy’ supplier case highlights potential deli hygiene pitfall The Food Standards Authority (FSA) has reminded all food businesses to ensure they buy from reputable suppliers after inspectors found “filthy” conditions at one retailer’s own processing premises. Leicester Magistrates Court fined Bates Butchers and Delicatessen, of Market Harborough, £4,000 plus costs and surcharges after MD Edward Partyka pleaded guilty to various food hygiene offences. The case highlights a weakness in the Food Hygiene Rating Scheme – Bates’ Market Harborough shop, which has a top score of five, took its supplies from the unsanitary site, as did its other shop in East Langton, which has a score of three. An FSA spokesperson said food hygiene 8
June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
An example of the poor conditions found at Bates
inspections considered what was prepared at establishments for serving to the public, and also considered traceability of products sourced from other businesses. “That may not mean that it would take into account whether a supplier has ‘hygiene failings’,” the spokesperson said, “but it will certainly mean that inspections will consider where the supplies come from.”
IN BRIEF Drewton’s Farm Shop, near South Cave, East Yorkshire, has secured planning permission for a new purpose-built, multifunctional wedding and events venue that it says will help it champion local food and drink.
Mergers like Sainsburys with Asda could aid the independent trade
owns Flesh & Flour in Muswell Hill, north London, said he had achieved that point of difference with products from Diverse Fine Foods, Artisan Food Club and others.” Consolidation meant “less competition for us”, he said. Hider Foods managing director Duncan Hider told FFD it was business as usual for distributors – but the key was to be agile, seek
other routes to market and source alternative products that added value for customers. Retailers should not be worried, he added, provided they continuously reviewed their ranges and their customers’ experience. “The world continues to evolve, businesses need to continue to improve and adapt,” said Hider. “A shakeup in a sector isn’t always a bad thing.”
Taiwan’s Fu Wan Chocolate was among the gold award winners in this year’s Academy of Chocolate Awards. Its accolades included two golds for its flavoured dark chocolate bars. Fruition Chocolate, Roccoco and Lauden were also among the gold award winners. Hot on the heels of confirming plans to open in the City of London, Italian specialist Eataly is reported to be looking at launching a joint venture in China and opening food centres in the UAE, Las Vegas, Toronto and Paris.
Pessimistic Lords report predicts post-Brexit price hikes The food sector has been warned to prepare for higher food prices in a pessimistic report from the Lords European Union and environment subcommittee on Brexit. The report, Brexit: food prices and availability, cautions that meat prices could climb almost 6%, dairy more than 8% and vegetables 4%, depending on trade deals negotiated. The report notes 30% of food eaten in the UK comes from the EU and another 11% from non-EU countries. The committee found that EU food imports could not easily be replaced by either producing more in the UK or importing more from non-EU countries. Lord Teverson, sub-
committee chairman, said: “Throughout our inquiry there was a striking contrast between government confidence and industry concerns. “The minister may not be worried about the potential for Brexit
8% rise in dairy product prices after Brexit Source: Lords European Union and environment subcommittee on Brexit
to impact on the price and availability of food, but the representatives of the food and farming industry, importers, port authorities and consumer organisations were vocal in their concerns”. A government spokesperson said food prices depended on a range of factors, including commodity prices, currency exchange rates, and oil prices which would continue to be the case after Brexit. “But we also want to ensure consumers have access to a wide range of food, which is why we are considering how we best manage border checks and controls when we leave the EU without impacting the smooth flow of trade.”
LE GRUYÈRE AOP
*
BORN IN SWITZERLAND, 1115 A.D. And remains the only cheese that’s 100% Natural, 100% Traditional, 100% from Switzerland and 100% Le Gruyère AOP *AOP = PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) – must be traditionally and entirely prepared and produced within the region, thus acquiring the unique properties of Gruyère AOP cheese, to bear the name Le Gruyère AOP.
The uniquely smooth, savoury flavour you’ll find only in Le Gruyère AOP is a product of its upbringing – where the cows that supply the milk are grazed (only in the villages of Western Switzerland), the way the cheese is aged and cared for (slow-aged in the region’s cheese cellars and caves), and the recipe that’s remained, unchanged, for centuries (hand-made, in small batches). For a smooth and mild yet extremely satisfying taste, Le Gruyère Classic is aged 5 months minimum. Le Gruyère Reserve, which has been aged for 10 months or more, has a smooth but more robust flavour. Both varieties are great in recipes, or sliced as a snack. Either way, we’re sure you’ll enjoy the only cheese that can call itself Le Gruyère AOP.
Switzerland. Naturally.
Castle of Gruyères
Born in Switzerland in 1115. www.gruyere.com
Cheeses from Switzerland. www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com
Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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NEWS
Indie pioneers insist plastic reduction doesn’t have to cost the earth By Andrew Don
Independent speciality food stores are just as capable of launching initiatives to reduce plastic waste and pollution as the big grocery players, experts have advised. The upbeat appraisals came after the Eat 17 chain announced it had banned plastic straws and introduced bamboo coffee cups. It is also encouraging customers to reduce plastic use by introducing dispensers of milk, wine, cereals, nuts and grains refillable containers. “Our customers are definitely looking to be eco-friendly and are making efforts not to buy pre-packaged foods or use disposable items such as coffee cups,� said Eat 17 brand manager Saskia Parks. “They are happy to have the option to buy what they need without having to buy the plastic packaging as well.� Chris O’Connor the co-founder of Eat 17, which will open a store in Hammersmith on 15th June
(DW KDV LQWURGXFHG EDPERR VWUDZV DQG GLVSHQVHUV IRU UHĆ“OODEOHV
and in Leytonstone late August, told FFD: “Any shop can do this. It is not easier for us than independents – not at all. “We are finding we’ve got customers who are prepared – they’ve got their containers, their jars and their own bags.� Richard Eckersley, who owns Earth. Food. Love. in Devon, which sells loose foods, said: “Bulk food is the best way for me to go to eliminate plastic.�
The Moody Cow opens for business at Ceredigion farm 7KH 0RRG\ &RZ )DUP 6KRS CafĂŠ & Bistro has opened in Llyncelyn, Ceredigion, focusing on local, British produce with low food miles. A sister business to %DUJRHG )DUP &DUDYDQ Camping Park, the family-run shop is on the family farm between Abaeraeron and New Quay. The shop sources British OLQH FDXJKW Ć“VK DQG KDV a butchery counter and a delicatessen, including a cheese counter with about 40 different varieties. “A lot of them are local,â€? said Chris Thomas, one of the owners. “We also deal with Rowcliffe, and we have 6WLQNLQJ %LVKRS DQG &ROVWRQ %DVVHWW 6WLOWRQ Ĺ? 6KH DGGHG Ĺ?:DOHV doesn’t produce every type of cheese that’s needed for the market so we would
prefer to supply amazing cheese based on the fact that it’s British, which is as important to us as Welsh. But we try to be as local as we can.� The business makes its own food for the bistro – from sausages and pasties through to lasagnes – and it has also developed vegetarian scotch eggs.
David Gilroy, managing director of Store Excel, a businesses that advises nonaffiliated independents and provides them with buying services, has a number of suggestions which are achievable at low cost. He said retailers should stop issuing plastic bags at checkouts and replace them with American-style paper carriers, as well as saving cardboard boxes from deliveries to offer to customers.
Gilroy said plastic clip strips could now be substituted for lightweight cardboard versions, which were now widely available, and that all plastic used in bakery, produce and meat sections could be replaced with paper versions. Installing water refill coolers in stores was an easy way to reduce dependency on water bottles, added Gilroy, while coffee machine operators should be selected on the basis of offering proper disposable cups instead of plastic-lined versions. WRAP, the organisation behind The UK Plastics Pact, said that a plastic wrap on a cucumber could extend its shelf life from three to 14 days. “Although reducing unnecessary plastic packaging is a good thing, ensure you aren’t contributing to food waste, which itself poses huge problems for the environment,� a spokeswoman said.
IN BRIEF A new farm shop and cafĂŠ, Anna’s Happy Kitchen, has opened in the former Coastways CafĂŠ, near Howden, West Riding, specialising in its own pork products. ,W VHOOV HLJKW VDXVDJH varieties including Porkshire Terrier, made with York Brewery’s Terrier beer. Lady Carole Bamford, the entrepreneur behind 'D\OHVIRUG 2UJDQLF )DUP has written a 304-page book called Nurture, the story of Daylesford, which includes recipes. ,W LV SXEOLVKHG E\ 6TXDUH Peg (ÂŁ35 hardback). Planet Organic is focusing on “innovation and newnessâ€? to deliver business growth. The company reported that it had narrowed full-year pre-tax losses from ÂŁ392,000 to just over ÂŁ323,000 on turnover up from ÂŁ28.1m to ÂŁ30.7m.
Rocketing vanilla prices hit ice cream makers A vanilla shortage threatens a meltdown in the ice cream market once current stocks deplete. Prices of vanilla from Madagascar, where the majority of vanilla is grown, have rocketed from $90/ kg three years ago to more than $600/kg – pushing the commodity higher than the price of silver. The most recent price surge came after a cyclone last March which damaged many vanilla plantations. Commodity speculation by a few larger buyers is also thought to have contributed. Will Hawking, who has been making ice cream for 30 years, forward-bought vanilla for his business, 0DUVKƓHOG )DUP ,FH &UHDP but he said it had reached
the stage when he was now going to have to try and absorb increased costs for new supplies because he was already committed to its price list. Ĺ?)RU D ORW RI WKH VPDOOHU people it will be painful,â€? he told FFD Ĺ?,Q RXU WUDGH we make the price list at the start of each year. Our customers need to know what their trading price is through the season and we wouldn’t what to upset
WKHP 7KHUHĹ?V OHVV SURĆ“W LQ it for us.â€? <XPP\ <RUNVKLUH ,FH Cream Company said it bulk-bought at the end of winter but it was running RXW Ĺ?,FH FUHDP SURGXFHUV use different grades of YDQLOOD ,Ĺ?P VXUH LW ZLOO prompt some to look at cheaper sources because they would be hesitant to increase prices.â€?
The price of Madagascan vanilla has risen to $600/kg
Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
ANALYSIS
the GreyCRIME Pound CYBER
Never mind the Millennials...
Food seems to be dominated by one social mediaobsessed generation but there is another quieter age group retailers should ignore at their peril. The Grey Pound is just as vital, if not more, to independents. By Michael Lane
YOU MIGHT FIND IT HARD to believe there is any demographic other than Millennials in the world today. Food especially can feel like it has been reduced to one endless social media barrage of top-down shots of brunch dishes – including the generation-defining avocado toast. But outside the country’s urban bubble there is another group frequenting food shops, even if they don’t tweet about it. Analysts don’t talk about the Grey Pound as often as they used to. Previously a by-word for spending by elderly consumers, the term is still recognised but should not just be equated to little old ladies pulling shopping trolleys down the high street. While the age range is slightly disputed, these retired consumers are a lucrative and vital part of independents’ customer bases. At Craigie’s Farm Shop, on the outskirts of Edinburgh, the Grey Pound is very much alive and well. Director John Sinclair estimates that retired
They are there in January and February when no one else comes. And on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays when other people are working.
customers account for 50% of sales. Excluding butchery concession, the average spend for this demographic is between £12 and £20. And this is consistent income. “They are more regular,” Sinclair tells FFD, adding that you “could set your watch” by some of his older customers. “They will come back every week, generally. They are more creatures of habit. “Younger customers will decide to come on the day and they might buy some of their shopping but then we won’t see them again for 2-3 months,” he says. Young families are the other major income stream at Craigies, attracted by its offer outside of the shop and café – like its play area, collection of farm animals and Pick Your Own facilities – but all of these activities are weather-dependent. That’s something that Clare Jackson, owner of Slate, which has two delis in the Suffolk towns of Aldeburgh and Southwold, knows all about. She estimates that the average spend of her local semi-retired and retired 65-plus customer base is £11, but they are a vital counterpoint to the transient trade from holiday-makers and weekenders, who might spend £20 but do not visit anywhere near as often. “They are there in January and February when no one comes to the seaside and on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays when other people are working,” she says. “They’re crucial to our shop being an everyday presence and the key to our shop being there all year.” These regular customers have “particular tastes” when it comes to Slate’s specialist area – cheese. Classics like Cheddar and Stilton are ever-presents but, curiously, so is the triple cream Delice de Bourgogne. “I would like to give space to other types of cheese but if we didn’t have it, it would be missed.” Portion sizes are also something retailers serving older customers need to get to grips with. Slate regularly has to sell the dreaded “just 100g” piece of cheese and when winter comes its singleserving frozen meals (made in-house) outstrip demand for larger two- and four-serving sizes.
18% of the UK’s population
is aged
65 or over
and this is predicted to rise to
20.5%
by 2026
Source: ONS
CONTINUED ON PAGE 14
Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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the Grey Pound Stalwart producer Cottage Delight, which has learned a thing or two about catering to the tastes of older generations in the last 40 years, has become very conscious of demand for smaller sizes from the retired demographic. As part of a major rebranding exercise, it is introducing 4oz jar formats that can be packaged up as gift lines. Brand and marketing director Gary Johnston hopes these will appeal elderly one-person households that can’t get through 12oz jars. Staples like strawberry jam and caramelised onion chutney still lead sales, but Johnston says that older doesn’t have to mean unadventurous. “The older customer still wants the traditional flavour profiles,” he says but adds that they are watching cookery programs just like everyone else. “They would rather buy the product than make a passionfruit curd themselves.” Preserves with gin in them have been a big hit across the board (Johnston is keen to point out that Cottage Delight has a strong following from 35-years-old up). “Older people like the nostalgia of Gin & Tonic but the younger generation say: ‘Let’s have it because it’s got gin in it.’” Clare Jackson is also reluctant to label over-60s as “conservative”. Her experience is that many are travelling in their retirement and coming back from the Continent requesting what they’ve eaten on holiday – particularly charcuterie and cheese. In fact, Jackson suggests that no age group can be stereotyped anymore. “It amazes me to see some people out and about and then you hear what their age is,” she says Richard Knight, regional director for mystery shopping specialist Shopper Anonymous, warns it would be dangerous to have a fixed idea about older demographics. “Retailers should not presume that the Grey Pound is the Grey Pound they’ve already seen,” he says. “It’s not the archetypal old lady with her trolley anymore. The Grey Pound’s outlook will change. Those Millennials are going to become the Grey Pound.” The boundary for what is considered “old” is shifting all the time – those in their late 50s are now considered middle aged whereas they would not have been a decade ago. Despite this, Craigie’s John Sinclair says there is still a marked difference in what older shoppers are looking for. “Older customers are buying for their table. They are buying what they need to cook a meal,” he says adding that they visit his shop to buy meat, vegetables and ingredients. “They’re of an age that does have better understanding of what’s involved in food production.” While Craigie’s younger visitors are more impulse purchasers, buying “sweets and treats”, the retirees know what they are looking for when they arrive and want to access it without any kind of distraction. “They’re the ones that get upset when you move something,” says Sinclair. “If we move the egg display, they will comment but younger customers wouldn’t even notice.” When Slate moved its bread section, Clare Jackson says that there were several people who assumed that the shop no longer sold it. Offering a certain level of service is key, says Jackson. Staff at Slate make sure they always 14
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Over-65s in profile MICHAEL FREEDMAN, Senior Shopper Insight Manager, IGD. • IGD’s ShopperVista research shows that shoppers aged 65 and over tend to shop less frequently, with 54% agreeing that they prefer to go to stores to do a big shop maybe once or twice or week. • Older shoppers also shop across fewer channels and are less welcoming of using technology. For example, only 28% of shoppers aged 65 and over shopped online for food in the last month. • They are more concerned about food price inflation. • Like to buy familiar products and stick to known recipes. • More ethically focused, concerned with freshness of food, animal welfare and where products are sourced, for example whether products are local or British. • More focused on eating more fruit and veg, smaller portion sizes and reducing salt in their diets for health reasons. indulge older customers who want to chat and will assist in carrying shopping back to their cars. John Sinclair adds: “You need to be aware and mindful of the fact that you need to treat them a bit differently.” Craigie’s has taken the idea a little further with some “subtle separation” and redeveloped its site at the tail-end of 2015. Now there are two café areas: one for young families and a quieter area, The Potting Shed, for its retired customers. The seating is softer in this section and there are no bench seats, to keep accidents to a minimum. Establishing lines of communication with the Grey Pound also requires consideration. Even businesses with a strong presence on social media need to maintain a database of older customers and send details of promotions and events via their chosen medium – email. Shopper Anonymous’s Richard Knight says that even this is not a guarantee and retailers should make sure they keep up to date with the platforms being used. Many over-50s are keen users of Facebook, for instance. The key to communicating and boosting sales among older consumers is getting them while they’re in-store, according to Gary Johnston of Cottage Delight, which supports retailers with tasting kits and deploys its own representatives to run them at shop floors across the country. “The older generation, if they don’t know a brand or what it tastes like, they’re not going to part with £3 unless they’ve tasted it.” Richard Knight agrees with this strategy. While e-newsletters and loyalty card schemes are useful tools, nothing beat engaging with the Grey Pound on the shop floor. “When they are in store, are you taking the most of it and asking them what they want?”
June is Bustin’ Out All Over ack. Rodgers & Hammerstein
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Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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OPINION IF I’D KNOWN THEN WHAT I KNOW NOW... HANNAH LEAH JONES, co-owner, The Deli At No 5, Thame, Oxfordshire Before opening the shop in October 2016, we travelled the country, researching products. We wanted to find the best produce Great Britain has to offer and put it all in one shop. We’ve stuck fast to this vision, although establishing what sells has been a learning curve. Some of the products that take time to make are, understandably, quite pricey, and can be difficult to sell. We’re in the process of scaling back on homeware and expanding our range of alcohol. We’ve resisted any sort of eat-in or take-out food offering because we want to stand out from the crowd. We’re not a sandwich shop and we’re not a café. But that has meant being creative to generate additional revenue streams, particularly as our customers mainly come in for a few items rather than their entire weekly shop. We’ve made it work through ‘extra-curricular’ activities: we sell wedding cheese cakes and hold evening and weekend cheese & wine, cheese & gin and charcuterie & beer tastings. We keep the shop open during these events, so if people like something they can buy it. We have also started selling fresh fish from Cornwall, which gives us a real point of difference. We looked at what fish the supermarkets are selling, and it is all previously frozen. Ours is caught in the morning and delivered to us in ice boxes. I’m big on Instagram. too. I try and put thought into staging good photos, for example, by going out into nature, to make our posts more arresting. We’re working with a business developer from Buckinghamshire Business First at present. We learned about this support, which is EU funded, via a friend who runs a vineyard, and it has been highly beneficial for exploring new ideas. We’re doing an exporting workshop with them and our plan is to launch an online shop selling British craft beer, wine and spirits overseas – we sense there is great demand in Asia in particular. We’re halfway through our second year and, in that time, we’ve learned a lot about managing cash flow after a few wobbles in the first few months after opening. For example, we had to replace the floor, which we hadn’t budgeted for, and then there were all the pro forma invoices that we had to pay upfront. Now we have much more of a handle on income and outgoings – I plug it all into a spreadsheet. I still take the view that the rough patches and things that didn’t go our way were hard at the time, but were ultimately useful lessons. Interview Lynda Searby Photography Isabelle Plasschaert
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You have to resist constant temptation to take the easy option. After all, it’s only 5p for that bag. By Michael Lane, Editor
“Have you ever eaten with one of these things?” a deli owner asked me the other day, while picking up a wooden fork offered to customers eating in at his own establishment. “Well, it tastes disgusting.” It may be better for the environment but using a soggy, splintering piece of wood to eat your lunch is not the most appealing prospect. Surely even the most guilt-burdened campaigners would agree? Whatever way you look at it, plastic waste is an issue that isn’t going to go away in a hurry – and this conversation was one of several things this month that have driven that home to me. The first hurdle to overcome in the “War On Plastic” is consumer behaviour. Everybody might say they want less plastic in shops but backing this statement up requires commitment to inconvenience. Remembering to take your own coffee cup, containers and bags with you is tougher than it sounds. You also have to resist constant temptation to take the easy option. After all, it’s only 5p for that bag. A case in point is Sainsbury’s recent introduction of ‘no touch’ packing for some of its raw chicken – adding plastic inners because a generation of people has apparently grown up frightened of handling raw meat. Regardless of whether you find this as ridiculous as I do, it shows that retailers still have a duty to give their customers what they want. The aforementioned deli actually offers a choice between plastic and that dreaded wooden cutlery,
EDITOR’S CHOICE Chosen by Lauren Phillips Assistant editor
but it is searching for a better alternative. Forget about willingness for a moment and think about the cost of tackling plastic. The whole supply chain will be under pressure to find ways of altering packaging without affecting the quality of the product inside. But they’ll also have to protect their margins and someone along the line will have to absorb the cost. If that wasn’t worrying enough, then retailers will also need to look at how they’re selling loose items. Whether it’s cheese, produce or coffee, there will be an element of plastic to replace. The good news is you won’t necessarily need a corporate budget to lessen your plastic consumption. The lead story on page 11 offers guidance on how to do things on an independent budget and shining examples in Eat 17 and Earth. Food.Love. Another thing to consider is the negative impact of plastic reduction on retailing. Last month retailers were pondering where they would find space for hulking reverse vending machines for plastic bottles. Now, we’re hearing that bags for life – a boom fuelled by plastic bag charges – have become the shoplifter’s favourite new tool in farm shops (page 7). New measures and ideas aren’t going to be a panacea just because they help the environment. I read an article hailing an “epic awakening” among the public. That might be an overstatement but the problem of plastic waste is something we’re all going to have to swallow. Would you like a wooden fork with that?
Gin & Tonic Garnish Box The Spice Pioneer This Gin & Tonic Garnish Box from The Spice Pioneer (a brand from spice producer Seasoned Pioneers) is a great example of lateral thinking about how to capitalise on the gin boom. The box allows consumers to garnish their favourite gin & tonic with a choice of eight botanical ingredients. This might sound a little frilly, but given the genuine interest in gin from consumers – and the number of gin tastings popping up across the country – it makes sense that they’d be just as interested in how to serve their favourite tipple as they are in drinking it. Read more on page 46. seasonedpioneers.com
Competitive landscaping SAM ROSEN-NASH The Purple Scallion If you’re a new producer it’s easy to be a little blinkered about your products. Having nurtured and cajoled them into life, they will be so dear to you that you may not see the already crowded world you are launching them into. If you are at this point then it’s still not too late. Before you set a product on its way, it’s invaluable to map out the competitive landscape. Are there similar products, not necessarily the same, out on shelf already? If so, go out and buy them and take note of their positioning on shelf. Who are they rubbing shoulders with and what are they priced at? It is worth the initial investment – fill your basket. If you feel that there is
“Trust me, your product will be compared to something else when you go before a buyer ” nothing out there, you are wrong. Trust me, your product will be compared to something else when you go before a buyer. Before you open each individual sample, study the packaging, the ingredient list, the weight, the cost per 100g. What can you learn from it before you even open it? When it comes to tasting, it’s hard to be unbiased. So, get someone else to set up a blind-tasting for you. Note every sensory experience – appearance, aroma, texture, taste, length of flavour, after-taste – and encourage others to join you. The more opinions, the better. With all this data to hand you can get to work on refining your own product. Be hard on yourself, get others to taste it over and over against your competition, and listen to what is being said. When you feel you can do no more and that you have a gem that glistens brighter than the rest, you are ready for that most nervous moment, the launch. Go knock on those doors, be passionate and dazzle those buyers. After all, you know your onions! Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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artisan, sweet and creamy
Old Winchester, a very hard cheese with lots of flavour. www.lyburncheese.co.uk 01794 399982
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June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
EST.1897
Award winning, Artisan Blue Cheese and Pates To find out more visit: www.cornishcheese.co.uk Call Philip Stansfield on: 01579 362416
CHEESEWIRE
news & views from the cheese counter
French farmhouse awards to make artisans “sexy� again
Seasoned campaigner VĂŠronique Richez-Lerouge has created the Farm Cheese Awards to arrest the decline of artisan makers
The renaissance of British cheese could act as an inspiration for beleaguered farmhouse cheesemakers around the world, according to the French organiser of a new international awards that aims to glamourise and promote farm-based producers. VĂŠronique Richez-Lerouge, who has long fought to protect and promote artisan cheeses in France as president of the Association Fromages de Terroirs, will launch the Farm Cheese Awards at the Sirha Green food show in Lyon on 18th June. The competition, which is open to cheesemakers from around the world, who must be based on a farm and
use raw milk, aims to change perceptions of traditional cheeses and help reverse a decline in numbers of farmhouse producers. “These cheeses are disappearing,� she told FFD. “Many farms are closing as people grow older. There are very few young farmers taking over because making cheese is a hard life. They also face problems with industrial companies, such as Lactalis and Sodiaal. Farmhouse cheese can’t compete and people now no longer know the difference between industrial and farmhouse. “If we can show farmhouse cheese as sexy and glamourous
– the very best of the best – then perhaps we can encourage new people to get involved.� Richez-Lerouge estimated that half of all ‘fermier’ producers have closed in France over the past 10 years with dozens of cheeses becoming extinct in the process. “Similar things are happening in Italy and Spain,� she said. “But we have seen something new in the UK. I always give the example of England – it’s a great story of how you have a new beginning. “Twenty years ago you had very few farmers making cheese, but your cheeses have come back. Talking about that will help people in France wake up.� Richez-Lerouge has set up the awards with cheesemonger Emmanuel Carbonne and Paris-based cheesemaker Pierre Coulon. Around 100 entries are expected and cheeses from the UK, Mexico and Japan are already confirmed entrants. The contest will be judged by a panel of international experts from France, the US, Spain and Norway, among others. “I want to give a visibility to farmers across the world,� said Richez-Lerouge. “If we can show that farm cheese is the best and you can earn money from it, things can change.� IDUPFKHHVH DZDUGV FRP
NEWS IN BRIEF South Lanarkshire Council has racked up bills of more than ÂŁ550,000 in its legal case against Errington Cheese, according to The Times 7KH FKHHVHPDNHU LV Ć“JKWLQJ WR FOHDU LWV name and recover cheeses impounded by the council, after its Dunsyre Blue was linked to an E.coli 0157 outbreak. Final submissions have been heard at Hamilton Sheriff Court with a decision expected soon. The Wensleydale Creamery in Hawes has added a Yorkshire Brie – available in 1kg and 230g cheeses – as it looks to capitalise on the succes of the “Yorkshire Food brandâ€?. Cumbrian cheesemaker Appleby Creamery is eyeing international growth after securing a ÂŁ250,000 loan from the Northern Powerhouse Investment Fund (NPIF).The ÂŁ500,000 turnover company, which makes cow, sheep and goats’ milk cheeses, plans to upgrade its new premises ahead of exports to the US and China.
The soft, wrinkly rinded cows’ milk cheese Edmund Tew, made by Dave Holton and Tim Jarvis (above) of Blackwoods Cheese Company, was named Supreme Champion at this year’s Artisan Cheese Awards. The raw milk cheese from Kent, which also won the ‘Cow’ category, was judged against over 500 entries from across the UK in Melton Mowbray, ahead of the two-day Artisan Cheese Fair. “We’ve worked tirelessly to get the cheese making process right and ensure a IDQWDVWLF Ĺ´DYRXU IRU RXU FKHHVH Ĺ? VDLG +ROWRQ
THREE WAYS WITH...
Old Grenadier
Berkswell is probably Britain’s most famous sheep’s milk cheese – instantly UHFRJQLVDEOH E\ LWV Ŵ\LQJ VDXFHU VKDSH The raw milk cheese, which is made by Ram Hall Farm in Warwickshire, is aged for around six months, but has recently EHHQ MRLQHG E\ DQ ROGHU EURWKHU 2OG Grenadier is Berkswell that has been aged for well over a year and has a crumblier texture and a more intense ŴDYRXU
Deconstructed Caesar salad After some experimentation, Brighton chef Dan Kenny has come up with several cutting edge cheese servings and this is a real crowd-pleaser. Instead of a cracker, he uses a crisp leaf of baby gem, which is topped with a dab of anchovy emulsion, a slice of cheese and a sprinkle of crispy chicken skin. The intense salty cheese stands its ground DJDLQVW WKH PHDW\ XPDPL ŴDYRXUV RI WKH chicken and anchovy. Bermondsey Street Honey There’s an aged Pecorino quality to Old Grenadier with D ƓQLVK WKDW LV ERWK PHDW\ and sharp. A drizzle of honey smoothes its edges beautifully, especially Bermondsey Street’s raw acacia honey from a producer in Chinon in the Loire Valley. 'HOLFDWH ŴRUDO DQG FRPSOH[
Grenache In Italy they eat aged Pecorino Sardo with full-bodied spicy reds, such as the local Cannonau – Italy’s name for Grenache. It’s a good choice – the soft, spicy notes of Grenache envelope the intense cheese to create an intriguingly moreish match. Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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CHEESEWIRE
news & views from the cheese counter
Ballylisk to take triple cream beyond Northern Ireland A new Northern Irish cheese company hopes to rapidly grow sales of its triple cream cheese in mainland UK by building on the country’s growing reputation for good food. Ballylisk Dairies in County Armagh officially launched the bloomy-rinded cows’ milk cheese Triple Rose last month, after a year of development work. Dairy farmer Dean Wright told FFD that he had spotted a gap in the market for a British version of this rich style of cheese. “French Brillat-Savarin has a long history and always sells well, but there aren’t many British producers making triple cream cheeses,” he said. “We wanted to make something really special and decadent for our first cheese. We eventually hope to have a range of three or four soft cheeses with a triple cream blue likely to launch later in the summer.” Triple Rose, which has a creamy, lemony flavour, is made with pasteurised milk from the 200-acre farm’s
CHEESE IN PROFILE with Cerney Ash
LUCIE NOCK, director, The Cheese Society, Lincoln
Triple Rose is described as a British version of France’s Brillat-Savarin
200-strong herd of Friesian cows – something that Wright believes makes it unique in Northern Ireland. “As far as I know I’m the only farm cheesemaker using my own milk,” he said. It is currently stocked in delis and speciality shops in
What’s the story?: Cerney Ash was created in the 1980s by Lady Isabel Angus. She had been living in France and fell in love with goats’ cheese, in particular the famous Loire Valley cheese Valençay. Having learnt the art of cheesemaking from a
Northern Ireland with Wright in talks with distributors to take it to the rest of the UK. “Northern Irish food is really on the map at the moment, so there is a lot of interest, not just in the UK but also internationally,” he said. ballyliskofarmagh.com
Milk: Goats’, unpasteurised
Appearance & texture: Beneath the ash-covered rind, Cerney has a smooth and mousse-like texture June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
The cheese counter can be a confusing place to shop with dozens of similar products and very little branding. “Visual merchandising is absolutely key to make it work,” says Lucie Knock. “I’m a bit OCD about how the counter is laid out, so I’ve developed a grid reference, which means we know exactly where cheeses go.” This precise layout is useful for both customers and staff, she adds. “We have almost 100 cheeses and customers often don’t remember their names, but will remember where it was in the counter. It’s also good for staff to know exactly where cheeses are so they can reach for them instinctively.” Cheeses with complementary characteristics are displayed close to each other – so Lincolnshire Poacher near Comté – to help the cheesemonger taste through similar styles with a customer. A mix of whole cheeses and cut portions are also helpful, adds Nock, because they show off the texture of the cheese.
French farmer’s wife, she returned to the Cotswolds and started making this British version. It is named after the village near Cirencester where it is still made today.
How is it made? The truncated pyramidshaped cheese is handmade and takes three days to produce. Starter and rennet are added to the raw goats’ milk on day one. The curd is moulded on day two and on day three the young cheeses are demoulded and sprinkled by hand with sea salt and oak ash. Each cheese typically has four weeks’ shelf life and is approximately 250g.
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BEHIND THE COUNTER TIPS OF THE TRADE
when young, which becomes more dense and compact as it ages. The ŴDYRXU DOVR LQWHQVLƓHV ZLWK time, starting out mild and lemony, but developing spicy and almond nutty notes. Variations: Cerney Mini Ash – a 140g cylindrical, ash-covered goats’ cheese
Cheesemonger tip: Retain Cerney Ash in its original packaging to capitalise on the strong branding and multiple award badges. CrossVHOO ZLWK ƓJ UHOLVK DQG D Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. Chef’s recommendation: Looks stunning on the cheese trolley or a sharing platter. Recommend with a glass of chilled Sancerre. Cut diagonally from corner to corner using a cheese knife with holes to make eight perfect portions. The hollowed out knife reduces the drag of the blade when cutting softer cheeses.
The Academy of Cheese has been set up to promote cheese knowledge and provide career development, both within the industry and amongst enthusiastic consumers. It culminates in the KLJKO\ TXDOLƓHG DQG LQGXVWU\ DFFUHGLWHG UROH RI 0DVWHU RI Cheese. Visit academyofcheese.org WR ƓQG RXW PRUH DQG VLJQ up to a course.
Explore the UK’s leading showcase of fine food and drink Condense a year’s worth of product sourcing into an inspiring journey of discovery, register to attend at specialityandfinefoodfairs.co.uk
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INDUSTRY ONLY 2
June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
Sarah Gray’s is a husband and wife team who make jams, marmalades, curds, and chutneys, they have as much fun making their range as they do eating them with their family.
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N E W F R O M O L L A N D S FA R M F O O D S
T H R E E N E W AW A R D W I N N I N G A D D I T I O N S TO OUR MARMALADE RANGE New for 2018, our latest marmalades are already award winners. Our Single Malt Marmalade, with the smoky taste of Laphroaig, is a 2018 Gold winner at the Artisan World Marmalade Awards. And in collaboration with Great Taste Winners Norfolk Saffron we introduce our Norfolk Saffron Marmalade and our King Harry Marmalade, both award winners 2018. These join our 2017 Great Taste 2-star Seville Orange Marmalade and other award winning marmalades.
maryann@ollands-farm-foods.co.uk Order online or call us on 01692 652280 www.ollands-farm-foods.co.uk 24
June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
CHEESEWIRE
news and views from the cheese counter
We’ve turned the craft of cheesemaking too much into a science
Canada-based David Asher (right) is spreading the word about natural cheesemaking
Back to the beginning Common on the Continent, natural cheesemaking rejects the use of freeze-dried starters and champions raw milk. Now it’s gaining traction in the UK. Interview by Patrick McGuigan
You’ve probably heard of natural wine, but selfstyled “guerrilla” cheesemaker David Asher is on a mission to preach the virtues of natural cheese. “We’ve turned the craft of cheesemaking too much into a science,” he declares from his organic farm in British Columbia, Canada. “Farmstead cheesemakers are looking to express the full potential of their animals’ milk by going back to more traditional and natural ways.” Asher is the author of an influential book, The Art of Natural Cheesemaking, which has made him a key figure in the fledgling natural cheese movement, delivering cheesemaking classes around the world. Last year he spoke at Slow Food’s Cheese festival, which dedicated an entire area to natural cheeses, and in July he will bring his ideas to the UK with a cheesemaking class at The Courtyard Dairy in Settle, North Yorkshire. But what exactly is natural cheese? Low input farming and raw milk are elements, but central to the philosophy is the rejection of commercial starter cultures. These are bacteria isolated in labs and typically preserved as freeze-dried powders, which cheesemakers – both industrial and artisan – add to milk to kickstart acidification. The problem with this approach, argues Asher, is that industrial starters comprise a narrow range of bacteria. Instead, he encourages cheesemakers to express the unique and diverse microbes naturally present on farms and in milk by making natural starters either by fermenting whey or milk, or adding kefir (grains of bacteria and yeasts) or even harnessing bacteria harboured in wooden vats. “If you use pasteurised milk and freezedried cultures, you only get a small number
of microorganisms in the cheese that allow a small number of complex flavour characteristics to evolve,” he explains. “But a combination of raw milk and natural starter cultures have an incredible diversity of microorganisms which add character to the cheese.” Cheesemakers in Europe regularly create their own starters by fermenting leftover whey, including Comté and Parmigiano Reggiano, but in English-speaking countries the practice is frowned upon by authorities over concerns that potential pathogens could pass from batch to batch – something that Asher disputes. Andy Swinscoe at the Courtyard Dairy says natural starter cultures are not for everyone. “Making your own raw milk starters can be a risky thing unless you know what you’re doing and are testing your milk and acidity. But it’s important to get a greater body of knowledge and understanding of what we did before [commercial] starter cultures. On the farmhouse level, it’s about making a cheese that reflects your land. If you use generic cultures, you are covering up what is in your milk.” A handful of British cheesemakers already make their own starters, including Martin Gott, who produces the washed rind St James in Cumbria. Every batch of culture that he propagates is tested for pathogens and efficacy before being used. He has also recently won a Nuffield Farming Scholarship to research indigenous cultures in raw milk cheese. “The flavours we are getting now are more unique, more interesting, more characterful, and a big part of that is the switch to making and using our own starter culture,” says Gott. “My cheese tastes less like anyone else’s, because I’m not using the same starter cultures as anyone else. If we’re going to see a more competitive, more sophisticated marketplace, where cheeses compete against each other purely on quality, then I think we’ll see more people looking into this.” Back in Canada, Asher couldn’t agree more. “Natural cheese is about helping cheesemakers have a closer connection with their milk.”
CROSS
SECTION
St James 1
A seasonal washed rind cheese in production from Spring onwards, St James is made by Martin Gott with raw milk from a flock of 100 Lacaune sheep at Holker Farm, with just 100-150 litres from a single milking turned into around a dozen cheeses daily.
2
3
Gott previously used freezedried starters and liquid pint starters, but switched to making his own by souring milk from his best sheep to truly reflect the farm’s terroir. Neal’s Yard Dairy describes current batches as the best they have ever tasted with flavours that are “malty and punchy towards the rind, with a milky freshness and tangy note coming from the paste.”
St James was named in honour of the great affineur James Aldridge, who Gott met as a young man. The rind is washed for around two to three weeks to give it a orangey hue, pungent aroma and smoky, meaty flavour.
Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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Jam that fits your personality Let the thrill and excitement from each spoonful wash over you without guilt. It is a 100% natural, vegan and low-fat jam product made of only fresh fruits grown and carefully handpicked from our own farmland.
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CUT&DRIED
making more of British & Continental charcuterie
I’m trying to slow things down, because that’s how you develop that ‘cured’ flavour none of us can quite describe Buying in whole native-breed pigs, Ben Dulley (left) and his former Kingham Plough sous-chef Andrej Kobzev produce a full Continentalstyle range, including a mild, sobrasada-like ‘nduja.
A chef’s-eye view Ben Dulley is one of a new breed of charcutiers bringing a chef’s perspective to a market often driven by farmers and butchers Interview by Mick Whitworth
Giving FFD a quick of the compact maturing room at his Chipping Norton production unit, Cotswold chef-turned-charcutier Ben Dulley goes straight into nose-to-tail mode. “Here’s how a pig breaks down for us,” he says, pointing out products ranging from fermented sausages – salami, chorizo, ’nduja and beer sticks – through pancetta and guanciale to the premium whole muscles: coppa, smoked tenderloin and culatello. Dulley’s SaltPig Curing Co is just a year into operation, and the stock hanging here is the work of one man, butchering and preparing two pigs in a fortnightly cycle, with a chef’s eye for detail. The rolled pancetta, for example, is “a labour of love” , what with the care taken in tying it neatly with string and the slow maturation, which can take up to a year. His culatello is similarly a slow-to-create thing of beauty. “It’s just Gloucester Old Spot legs and Cornish sea salt, in pigs’ bladders that some friends bring back from France for me. It probably represents 18 months’ work, because it’s six weeks on the salt before we even start.”
Dulley started making charcuterie during a five-year stint as head chef at Cotswold dining pub The Kingham Plough. Fitting it around the day job, he was soon buying whole pigs for processing, continuing a nose-to-tail ethos he had absorbed in his first cheffing job at Bristol’s fondly remembered Quartier Vert restaurant. “Although I went on to up my game in fine dining restaurants, that ethos stayed with me. I want to take the whole pig and use it respectfully.” He works mainly with Gloucester Old Spots – which he calls the “poster boy of rare breed pigs, and a lovely all-rounder” – as well as fattier Middle Whites and the occasional Tamworth. “Tamworths have a darker meat, so they’re a little more wild boar-like. They also have a lovely soft fat which takes a little more skill to deal with but makes an excellent end result.” Initially struggling to get any pigs over 70kg dead weight, Dulley has worked hard to persuade his farmers to retain a few gilts (young females) and feed them up to 100-115kg. “That’s an ideal weight,” he says, “although I’m going to experiment with older pigs once I have some time. But it’s a commitment by the farmers, as it takes a lot more time and feed to get rare breeds up to this size than a commercial pig.” Dulley is approaching charcuterie very much from a chef’s perspective. “This niche industry is getting better all the time, but my observation over the last four or five years is that most people in it are farmers trying to add value to
their pork, or sometimes butchers. I’m looking at it as a chef, first and foremost, and saying, ‘What’s the best product I can make?’” Long maturation is key. “I’m trying to slow things down, rather than focusing on being commercial, because that’s how you develop that ‘cured’ flavour none of us can quite describe.” Although inspired by Italian salumi, he gives his products a British feel, using hedgerow herbs and local ingredients such as Hook Norton beer and Pearson’s cider, and favouring English names: ‘air-dried collar’, ‘cured loin’ and so on. SaltPig’s stand-out products include its salami, made with sinew-free lean muscle and big, hand-cut cubes of fat, and “Cotwold ‘nduja”. The latter, far from being fiery with chilli, is closer to a Majorcan sobrasada and mild enough to really let the flavour of the pork come through. SaltPig Curing Co currently serves a handful of local delis, including Fillet & Bone in Chipping Campden and Delicacy in Chipping Norton, and is selling on markets too. Last month also saw Dulley pack his first order for The Ox, a West of England steak and cocktail chain, and he’s finding a healthy market in pubs and restaurants for ready-sliced and portioned “charcuterie board” packs. He has so far tailored his sales efforts to match the limited stock hanging in his maturing room. In the past month, however, he has been joined in the business by Andrej Kobzev, his former sous-chef at the Kingham Plough. With an extra pair of hands in production, these flavour-driven products should soon be reaching a wider audience. saltpigcuring.co.uk
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
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CATEGORY FOCUS
Sweet & Savoury We have a jam-packed product round-up this month, quite literally, as we kick off with the latest in jams and preserves, followed by a slice of cakes & puddings (p33) and home baking (p35). It’s not all about the sweet stuff, though – find everything you need for your savoury snack fixtures on page 36. Compiled by Lynda Searby and Lauren Phillips
jams & preserves
Margarita marmalade is zesty with a kick of tequila
Cottage Delight has developed three cocktail-themed preserves. Strawberry Daiquiri extra jam (RRP £3.50, 340g) is a twist on the cocktail with dark rum, lime and whole strawberries. The peach Prosecco Bellini jam is “extra juicy” with real Italian Prosecco (RRP £3.50, 340g). The third Margarita marmalade is zesty with limes and a kick of tequila (RRP £2.95, 340g). cottagedelight.co.uk
Peckish PeckishKitchen Kitchenhas hasrebranded rebranded itsitsrhubarb rhubarbjam jamtotobecome become Yorkshire Yorkshirerhubarb rhubarb&&custard custardjam, jam, using usinglocal localrhubarb rhubarbgrown grownwithin within the therhubarb rhubarbtriangle triangleofofWest West Yorkshire. Yorkshire.ItItisisalso alsolaunching launchingaa new newRaspberry RaspberryCollins Collinsgin ginjam, jam, made madewith withraspberries raspberriessteeped steepedinin Divine DivineGin. Gin. peckishkitchen.co.uk peckishkitchen.co.uk 28
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The Artisan Kitchen has added seven new flavours to its range of Limited Edition preserves including a blood orange Oloroso marmalade. The new flavour is a sweet orange marmalade made with Tarroco oranges and finished with a 12-year aged Oloroso sherry. Available via Diverse Fine Foods. RRP £5 per jar. theartisankitchen.co.uk
Hilltop Honey has brought its first Manuka honey to UK shelves. Characterised by its dark amber colour, strong earthy flavour and floral notes, it is high in demand for both its taste and nutritional benefits. The soft set honey will be sold in 250g jars, in varying strengths of NPA (NonPeroxide Activity): 5+ (RRP £13), 10+ (RRP £19), 15+ (RRP £32). hilltop-honey.com
Since launching its Mojito marmalade, Hawkshead Relish has developed a pink grapefruit & gin marmalade which it unveiled at the Farm Shop & Deli Show in April. It is described as “fresh with an aroma and taste of gin on the palate which leaves a delightful citrus aftertaste”. Trade price £11.35 per case of 6 jars (RRP £2.75 per jar). hawksheadrelish.com
New for 2018 from Myrtle’s Kitchen is a lemon & lime marmalade, which it says is “bursting with citrus zing” and boasts undertones of bay and kafir. There is also said to be a good amount of peel in each 200g jar (RRP £3.50). The business has also introduced a banana and rum chutney which it says is “lightly spiced” with ginger. myrtleskitchen.co.uk
After reaching its first year of business, Hungry Squirrel has added maple pecan to its flavoured nut butters. Made with pecans, almonds, maple syrup and a hint of mixed spices, the smooth butter has a trade price of £3.95 per 150g jar (RRP £5-6). feedthesquirrel.co.uk
Womersley Foods is now selling its fruity jams in a newly designed gift box. The balance of herbs andand chilli in the three jams of herbs chilli in the – raspberry chilli, blackcurrant three jams –&raspberry & chilli, & rosemary, and strawberry blackcurrant & rosemary, and& mint – is said to intensify strawberry & mint – is saidthe to flavour ofthe theflavour fruit. of the fruit. intensify womersleyfoods.com
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The Sweet Beet has unveiled new labelling across its lines to evolve the brand’s identity and reinforce its core values. All jars now have black labels with imagery in bold, block colouring to portray the
North Yorkshire-based Rosebud Preserves has unveiled a gooseberry & HOGHUĹ´RZHU MDP IRU WKH QHZ VHDVRQ 553 e J 3UHSDUHG ZLWK J of fruit per 100g, the jam is QDWXUDOO\ VHW ZLWK XQUHĆ“QHG sugar. The producer says the sharp gooseberries complement the “muscat VFHQW RI ZLOG HOGHUĹ´RZHUĹ? rosebudpreserves.co.uk
Blueberry, lemon & basil; apricot, plum & almond; and plum, cherry & cardamom are the new preserves from Norfolkbased artisan producer Old Rectory Preserves. Made with French apricots and Norfolk Opal plums, the apricot, plum & almond variety can be served as a spread on pastries or as a compote with natural yoghurt. The toasted slivered almonds offer the product added texture. oldrectorypreserves.com
Greka has launched two new varieties of its whole fruit preserves, called VSRRQ VZHHWV 7KH Ć“UVW is a sour cherry variety recommended with Greek yoghurt, over ice cream or LQ D Ć“OOLQJ IRU D FDNH 553 ÂŁ5.50). The second is a strawberry spoon sweet with Mastiha, a liqueur seasoned with resin from the Mastic tree. Trade price e 553 e grekafoods.com
:KLOH FHOHEUDWLQJ LWV th year as a business, Blas ar Fwyd has rebranded its range of jams and chutneys to create a product which was modern yet “still felt DUWLVDQ DQG KDQGPDGHĹ? Each jar features the eyecatching Blas ar Fwyd logo and illustrations that were hand-drawn by a member of the team. blasarfwyd.com
The marble labelling portrays the blending of ingredients
Ĺ´DYRXU RI HDFK SURGXFW Ĺ?:H wanted to create a more consistent message to our FRQVXPHUV WKDW UHĹ´HFWHG WKH excitement and innovation RI RXU Ĺ´DYRXUV Ĺ? VD\V IRXQGHU Lizzy Hodcroft. thesweetbeet.co.uk
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Nut Blend has gone through a packaging and logo rebrand to get the message of its natural nut butters across. “The marble labelling portrays us ‘blending’ our special ingredients to create HDFK MDU RI QXW EXWWHU Ĺ? says founder Gabriella Block. It has also ODXQFKHG D 3UDOLQH 1XW %XWWHU 553 e PDGH with three ingredients: pecans, almonds and 3HUXYLDQ 0DFD nutblend.com
DIANE BROWN, Provender Brown, Perth 2ZQHU RI 3URYHQGHU Brown, Diane Brown prioritises local producers LQ KHU VWURQJ OLQH XS of jams and other sweet preserves. “The area is known for its jams and we have a long history of producing soft fruit so it makes sense to VWRFN ORFDO SURGXFWV Ĺ? VKH says. Her local best sellers are a Seville marmalade and a raspberry jam from 'DOFKRQ]LH 3UHVHUYHV DQG jars of Heather honey from Heather Hills.
Aside from local producers, the deli does stock national brands, including Wilkin & Sons, as they supply it with other LQWHUHVWLQJ Ĺ´DYRXUV WKDW it can’t get locally, says Brown. Jams with gin are also a must-stock for the deli, as Brown says it’s a recent innovation that has done well. “Our customers like to SXUFKDVH WKHP DV JLIWV Ĺ? she says. “They like the QRYHOW\ RI WKHP Ĺ? provenderbrown.co.uk
Launching next month from Scarlett & Mustard is a raspberry conserve and a Seville orange marmalade. Made with no preservatives or additives, both products are made with longestablished methods with natural ingredients to give them an LQWHQVH Ĺ´DYRXU 7UDGH SULFH e 553 e scarlettandmustard.co.uk
Thursday Cottage has developed D VDOWHG FDUDPHO VSUHDG 553 e DQG D FKRFRODWH VSUHDG 553 e 7KH IRUPHU LQFOXGHV 0DOGRQ VHD VDOW and is recommended with yoghurt, pancakes and ice cream, while the ODWWHU FRQWDLQV %HOJLDQ GDUN chocolate and double cream. thursday-cottage.com
In response to the unwavering consumer demand for gin, Mrs Darlington’s has unveiled a new medium cut orange marmalade with “a cheeky tipple of gin�. Said to be very reminiscent of the retro drink, gin & orange juice, the new PDUPDODGH KDV DQ 553 RI e SHU J MDU mrsdarlingtons.com Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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jams & preserves
Deep green in colour – ideal for aged cheeses
Arapina has developed WKUHH QHZ SUHVHUYHV sour cherries, pistachio QXWV DQG ZLOG ƓJV 7KH sour cherries are soaked in natural juices (without pips), while its pistachio nuts are cooked with a hint of lemon. The wild ƓJV SUHVHUYH LV GHHS green in colour and cooked with cumin and cloves – ideal for aged, pressed cheeses. RRP £6.50, 250g. arapina.co.uk
Greek brand Melira has added D (XFDO\SWXV KRQH\ Ĺ´DYRXUHG ZLWK EODFN WUXIĹ´H 6DLG WR EH DQ aphrodisiac honey with an intense WUXIĹ´H Ĺ´DYRXU WKLV VSHFLĆ“F EOHQG can be used as a dressing in green salads or with grilled meat. Trade price ÂŁ7.90, 280g. PHOLUDKRQH\ FRP
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>> Mary’s Marmalades has re-branded its range of marmalades and conserves to attract more custom and emphasise the wholesomeness of its homemade products. The rebrand sees new labelling incorporating hand-painted pictures of fruit designed by one of Mary’s daughters. The business has also launched a new rhubarb & ginger jam, made with fresh and stem ginger. Trade price £2.10, 227g (RRP £3.25+). marysmarmalade.co.uk
Eutyxia (meaning ‘happiness’ in Greek) produces a range of artisan jams and marmalades made with a minimum of 70g fruit per 100g. The Ć“YH VWURQJ OLQH XS LQFOXGHV Cosmopolitan (strawberry & dark rum), Lovey Dovey (apple & cinnamon), Dark Silk (strawberry & dark chocolate), Globe Trotter (prune & dark rum), and Rebel’s Twist (orange with pink & green pepper). eutyxia.com
Rosalind’s Larder has launched a Decadent Chocolate Lime Marmalade. $ FRPELQDWLRQ RI Ć“QH FXW lime marmalade and 70% dark chocolate, the preserve is said to have “deep, ULFK WRQHV RI FKRFRODWHĹ? IROORZHG E\ D Ĺ?]LQJ RI OLPHĹ? RRP ÂŁ3 for 125g jar or ÂŁ5 for a 220g jar. facebook.com/ rosalindslarder
Seville Marmalade is the initial launch from newcomer Burch and Suffolk set up by twin brothers Jonathan and James Burch. The marmalade uses Suffolkgrown fruit from local farms, and the brothers have now added strawberry, raspberry and rhubarb, cardamom & rosewater varieties to their repertoire. Trade price ÂŁ2.50 (RRP ÂŁ4.20). burchandsuffolk@gmail. com
Norfolk-based The Garden Pantry has added four Ĺ´DYRXUV WR LWV UDQJH RI jams and marmalades, all made using local or home-grown ingredients. The new varieties include a rhubarb, strawberry & gin jam made with Black Shuck Gin; rhubarb & beetroot jam; lemon, honey & ginger marmalade; and a blackcurrant & coffee jam. Trade price of each is ÂŁ2.25 (RRP ÂŁ3.50-3.95). thegardenpantry.co.uk
Launching only last summer and securing a three-star award in Great Taste is The Proper Marmalade Company’s gin & tonic marmalade. Recommended with cream cheese and biscuits or spread across scones, the conserve is said to be a “complex fusion of Ĺ´DYRXUVĹ? ZLWK Ĺ?IUHVK ELWWHU VZHHW DURPDWLF QRWHVĹ? 7UDGH price ÂŁ2.75 (RRP ÂŁ4). thepropermarmalade company.co.uk
The Preservation Society has released a Taste Cameroon range inspired by the producer’s recent trip to Dschang in the central African country. There are WKUHH ŴDYRXUV LQFOXGLQJ D pineapple jam with African herbs. It has also introduced a strawberry & Prosecco jam offering an alcoholic twist to an afternoon tea. thepreservationsociety. co.uk
Hembridge Organics produces its range of preserves from ugly, misshaped produce that would otherwise have been discarded by organic farms. Its latest creations are a plum & brandy and a raspberry jam. The former XVHV D Ĺ?VSODVK RI EUDQG\Ĺ? to produce a rich jam with D Ĺ?KLQW RI &KULVWPDVĹ? %RWK are suitable for vegans and have an RRP of ÂŁ3.99. hembridgeorganics.co.uk
Deerview Fine Foods has decided to change its jars to “a more pleasing roundâ€? 12oz jar, which it says has proved popular with retailers and consumers alike. The new jars contain 320g of jam and have a trade price of ÂŁ2.45 (RRP ÂŁ3.85). GHHUYLHZĆ“QHIRRGV FR XN
Although better known for its premium popcorn, Joe & Seph’s has recently added a Prosecco variety to its range of caramel sauces. The new sauce is rich with “hints of apple and white blossomâ€?. RRP ÂŁ3.99-5.99. MRHDQGVHSKV FR XN
Hay-on-Wye based Passion Preserves has teamed up with nearby Welsh coffee company Black Mountain Roast to produce its new espresso coffee marmalade. A blend of the SURGXFHUĹ?V 6HYLOOH PDUPDODGH DQG Black Mountain’s espresso roast, it is available in 1lb jars with an RRP of ÂŁ4.50 to ÂŁ6. SDVVLRQSUHVHUYHV FR XN
&KDWHDX 5RXJH has developed a raw (unpasteurised) English +RQH\ 7KH PXOWL Ĺ´RUDO (QJOLVK KRQH\ LV FRDUVH Ć“OWHUHG VWUDLJKW from the hive, to create a fresh and nutritious honey. Trade price ÂŁ5.56 for 250g (RRP ÂŁ6.95). FKDWHDXURXJH XN
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Have you ordered our new avours? Let your customers create their own culinary delights Contact your Territory Manager
01538 382020 www.cottagedelight.co.uk /cottagedelight
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June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
jams & preserves
Ideal on toast or as a compote with yoghurt
Maravilla Raspberry Preserve (RRP ÂŁ5) is one of three new releases from London-based producer Single Variety Co. The company says it uses more fruit and less sugar than traditional jams for a softer set that is ideal on toast or as a compote with yoghurt. The other launches include a King George Blackberry Preserve and a seasonal Alphonso Mango Preserve. singlevariety.co.uk
The Tiny Marmalade has developed a honey taster box in a bid to offer consumers a new gift option. The box includes six gourmet honeys from a selection RI ZLOGĹ´RZHU *UHHN DFDFLD FKHVWQXW RUDQJH EORVVRP DQG much more. Trade price ÂŁ7.50 (RRP ÂŁ12.99). thetinymarmalade.com
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cakes & puddings Best of Hungary has introduced a wide range of VLQJOH Ĺ´RZHU KRQH\V IURP reputable apiaries including its new raw wild acacia honey. It is described as a mild honey with the “aroma of acacia blossomsâ€?. Trade price ÂŁ3.80 per 250g jar and ÂŁ5.60 per 500g. bestofhungary.co.uk
London’s Skinny Bakery has added Skinny carrot cake pearls and Skinny lemon pearls to its signature range of healthy cakes. Typically containing only 3040 calories per piece and portioned in grab-and-go packs, the guilt-free sponge cakes with quark frosting are on shelf in Selfridges and Whole Foods (RRP £2.99; trade price £1.79). skinnybakery.co.uk
Pitched as a year-round foodie gift, Tipple Tails’ mini fruit cake range has been treated to new packaging. The 100g cakes are in available in four Ĺ´DYRXUV WKDW DUH VDLG WR RIIHU “a contemporary twist on a WUDGLWLRQDO %ULWLVK IDYRXULWHĹ? Cherry Orchard, Ginger Tingle, Cinnamon Pippin and Coco Bazaar. RRP ÂŁ44.50; wholesale ÂŁ2.45 each. reallygreatfruitcake.co.uk
Flower & White says its new meringue drops promise to “stand out on any retail shelf as an irresistible grab-and-go sweet treat, gift or dessertâ€?. Made with free-range HJJV DQG QDWXUDO Ĺ´DYRXUV they are available in three YDULHWLHV 5DLQERZ )UXLW D VHOHFWLRQ RI IRXU Ĺ´DYRXUV strawberry, lemon, passion fruit and black cherry), chocolate and white chocolate & raspberry. RRP ÂŁ3.20 for 100g. Ĺ´RZHUDQGZKLWH FR XN
CHAM produces chia seed fruit spreads said to have 50% less sugar than traditional jams. Consisting of three ingredients (fruit, chia seeds & vanilla), they come in 220g jars and three Ĺ´DYRXUV EOXHEHUU\ (RRP ÂŁ5.50), raspberry and strawberry (RRP ÂŁ4.99). eatcham.com
Inspired by the Parisien trend, French patisserie Le Choux has developed a range of six different FRORXUHG DQG Ĺ´DYRXUHG eclairs, available fresh daily for wholesale orders. The pistachio & white chocolate, dark chocolate, vanilla & raspberry, gianduja, coffee and salted caramel eclairs come in boxes of two, four, eight or 12. RRP ÂŁ3.90 each. lechouxlondon.com
Raw dessert company Honey&Date has launched a new chocolate-dipped collection that takes in three new “artisan raw cakesâ€?. The individually boxed salted caramel & peanut butter, strawberries & cream and banoffee desserts are free from gluten, dairy DQG UHĆ“QHG VXJDU DQG packed with “wholesome ingredients in their original stateâ€?. RRP is ÂŁ3.50; trade price ÂŁ2.10. honeyndate.com
Deli-cafÊs looking to tap into the vegan trend should check out Just Desserts’ new dairy- and egg-free range, which features chocolate, blueberry & lemon, Neapolitan and Bakewell Tart cakes. The Shipley bakery has also unveiled a new collection of individual cheesecakes, available in Ferrero Rocher, Oreo, peanut butter, white chocolate & orange and salted caramel varieties. just-desserts.co.uk
7KLV \HDU &DUGLII EDVHG Penylan Preserves has developed a new lemon marmalade. Described DV LQWHQVH DQG ELWWHU LW LV recommended simply on toast or more elaborately added to Eton 0HVV 553 e J MDU penylanpreserves.co.uk
%ODFNFXUUDQW OLPH EURZQLH GDWH ZDOQXW VHHG EDU DQG chai spice are the three new Ĺ?FRQWHPSRUDU\Ĺ? WUD\EDNH creations to come out of Ginger Bakers’ /DNH 'LVWULFW NLWFKHQ (DFK FP [ FP EDNH FXWV LQWR 18 ready to serve portions and FRVWV e gingerbakers.co.uk
7DUD 0XWWRQ LV TXLHWO\ EXLOGLQJ up a following for her luxury SXGGLQJV PDGH IURP &RUQLVK LQJUHGLHQWV &LGHU DSSOH FUXPEOH VWLFN\ WRIIHH SXGGLQJ DQG OHPRQ OLPH FXUG SXGGLQJ DUH MXVW three of the creations that feature in The Cornish Pudding Co’s VHYHQ VWURQJ OLQH XS 7UDGH SULFH e IRU D WZR SRUWLRQ WXE thecornishpuddingco.co.uk
$IWHU MXVW PRQWKV RI WUDGLQJ Rawnchy has established a customer base across Scotland for its artistically decorated UDZ YHJDQ FDNHV DQG GHVVHUWV :KLOH PRVW RI LWV FDNHV UHTXLUH UHIULJHUDWLRQ WKH SURGXFHU KDV MXVW ODXQFKHG D UDQJH RI brownies that can be displayed at ambient temperatures. rawnchy.co.uk Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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OLD RECTORY PRESERVES
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LESS THAN 5% SUGAR 4 EXCITING FLAVOURS www.stute-foods.com | 01179238823 34
June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
home baking *OXWHQ IUHH Ĺ´RXU EUDQG FREEE by Doves Farm has GHYHORSHG D VHHGHG EUHDG PL[ 553 e J DQG D VSRQJH PL[ 553 e J 7KH VSRQJH PL[ FDQ EH XVHG WR PDNH FDNHV E\ DGGLQJ HJJV DQG RLO ZKLOH WKH EUHDG PL[ HQDEOHV FXVWRPHUV WR FUHDWH IUHVKO\ EDNHG EUHDG RU UROOV E\ DGGLQJ RLO DQG ZDWHU ZLWK Ĺ?WKH QDWXUDO FUXQFK RI D Ć“YH VHHG PL[Ĺ? freee-foods.co.uk
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Combining home baking with children’s favourite Peppa Pig, The Little Treats Bakery has created a gingerbread DIY kit of a Peppa Pig house. Launching next month, the kit will be available through Hider Foods. RRP £8. thelittletreatsbakery.co.uk
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Hodmedod has launched four organic pulse and quinoa Ĺ´RXUV \HOORZ SHD JUHHQ SHD fava bean (RRP ÂŁ2.99, 500g), and quinoa (RRP ÂŁ4.99, 500g). All naturally gluten-free, WKH Ĺ´RXUV DUH DYDLODEOH YLD GLVWULEXWRUV LQFOXGLQJ ,QĆ“QLW\ Wholefoods. hodmedods.co.uk
Mangalitza salami chips marry well with pilsner
(QWUHSUHQHXU 'DQ )HDWKHUVWRQH KDV EURXJKW IRRG DQG GULQN SDLULQJ LQWR WKH VDYRXU\ VQDFNLQJ DUHQD ZLWK KLV Made For Drink UDQJH ZKLFK PDGH LWV GHEXW ODVW \HDU ZLWKLQ 7KH )DW 'XFN DQG 5LFN 6WHLQ HVWDWHV /DVW PRQWK VDZ WKH DUULYDO RI WKH WKLUG LQVWDOPHQW LQ WKH OLQH XS 0DQJDOLW]D VDODPL FKLSV ZKLFK DUH VDLG WR PDUU\ ZHOO ZLWK (DVWHUQ (XURSHDQ VW\OH SLOVQHUV 553 e IRU J madefordrink.com
Tapping into the raw food trend is The Raw Fix, with its organic, raw and vegan smokey coconut & banana clusters. The 25g bags have an RRP of ÂŁ1.75 and a trade price of ÂŁ10.80 for a case of 12. WKHUDZĆ“[ FR XN
>> Olly’s Olives claims to be the ZRUOGĹ?V Ć“UVW XQSDVWHXULVHG ROLYH VQDFN SRXFK 7KH ROLYHV DUH PDULQDGHG LQ ROLYH RLO DQG DUHQĹ?W VXEMHFWHG WR DQ\ KHDW WUHDWPHQW SUHVHUYLQJ WKHLU QXWULWLRQDO YDOXH DQG UHVXOWLQJ LQ Ĺ?VXSHULRU TXDOLW\ FUXQFKLHU WH[WXUHV DQG VWURQJHU Ĺ´DYRXUVĹ? DFFRUGLQJ WR WKH SURGXFHU 7KH J DQG J SRXFKHV DUH DYDLODEOH LQ WKUHH Ĺ´DYRXUV EDVLO JDUOLF FKLOOL URVHPDU\ DQG OHPRQ WK\PH ollysolives.com
Dorset’s Great British Biscotti Co KDV ODXQFKHG D WULR RI ELVFRWWL FURXWRQ SRXFKHV LQ MDODSHQR FKHGGDU FKRUL]R FKHGGDU DQG VXQ GULHG WRPDWRHV ROLYHV Ĺ´DYRXUV 7KH FURXWRQV DUH ELOOHG DV Ĺ?DQ HDJHUO\ DQWLFLSDWHG DQWLGRWH WR WKH Ĺ´XII\ XQIXOĆ“OOLQJ UHDOLWLHV RI OLJKW ELWHV OLNH SRSFRUQĹ? 553 e SHU J EDJ greatbritishbiscotti.co.uk
6WHS DVLGH SHDQXWV DOPRQGV DQG SHFDQVĹ™SLOL QXWV IURP WKH 3KLOLSSLQHV DUH WKH ODWHVW LQ QXW IDVKLRQ 7KHVH WHDU VKDSHG Ĺ?QXWULWLRQDOO\ GHQVHĹ? QXWV KDYH EHHQ SOXFNHG IURP REVFXULW\ Ĺ?DFWLYDWHGĹ? DQG ODXQFKHG LQWR 6HOIULGJHV DQG +ROODQG %DUUHWW E\ QHZFRPHU Raw & Wild 7KH\ FRPH LQ WXUPHULF JLQJHU UDZ FKRFRODWH FRFRQXW +LPDOD\DQ SLQN VDOW FKLOOL DQG RULJLQDO YDULHWLHV raw-wild.co.uk
Savoursmiths D UHODWLYH QHZFRPHU WR WKH KRPH JURZQ SRWDWR FULVS VSDFH KDV D Ĺ´DYRXU WKDW XVHV VDOW IURP WKH .DODKDUL GHVHUW LQ $IULFD 7KH IDPLO\ EXVLQHVV HQWHUHG WKH PDUNHW LQ 6HSWHPEHU SURPLVLQJ VNLQ RQ FULVSVĹ? PDGH IURP SRWDWRHV KDUYHVWHG RQ LWV &DPEULGJHVKLUH IDUP ZLWK Ĺ?Ĺ´DPER\DQW Ĺ´DYRXUVĹ? 553 LV e SHU J EDJ
*OXWHQ IUHH Ĺ?IUHH IURP DUWLĆ“FLDO anythingâ€? and made with corn and pulses, Rude Health’s new Cornitas chips are bang on trend. The popped chips are available LQ WZR Ĺ´DYRXUV ĹŠ EODFN EHDQ DQG FKLFNSHD OHQWLO ĹŠ ZLWK DQ 553 RI ÂŁ0.99 for a 30g bag and ÂŁ2.19 for a 90g sharing bag. rudehealth.com
savoursmiths.com
PĂŁo de Queijo are a staple snack in Brazil, and now Dona Rita is bringing these cassava cheese balls to London retailers. The naturally gluten-free baked cassava dough balls are packaged in pouches of 15 balls (RRP ÂŁ5). donarita.co.uk
Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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>>
snacks The protein-rich seeds RI WKH ORWXV Ĺ´RZHU KDYH featured as a snack in Indian diets for centuries, and now, entrepreneur Jumana Kapadia is introducing this oriental ‘super seed’, popped and roasted, as a modern day snack. Lotus Bites come in turmeric, pineapple and beetroot & WRPDWR Ĺ´DYRXUV DQG KDYH DQ RRP of ÂŁ1.49 for 17g. lotusbites.co.uk
Dhikari has reinvented the Bombay mix with a blend that features nuts, seeds, split chickpeas, coconut chips and buckwheat groats hand-baked in a blend of Indian spices. The modernday mix is natural, vegan and gluten-free and comes in two varieties: original and pomegranate (with sweeter Indian spices and pomegranate molasses). RRP ÂŁ1.99 for 35g; ÂŁ5.99 for 200g. dhikari.co.uk
Nottingham-based Barmies has revived the tradition of brewers and bakers working together to produce fermented beer snacks. Collaborating with craft breweries, founder Sophie Wood makes bread from surplus yeast. The ‘beer barm’ is available in 30g snack pouches which have just been treated to a new look following help from 7KH 6HHG $FDGHP\ ĹŠ D PHQWRULQJ VFKHPH IRU EXGGLQJ businesses. RRP ÂŁ2.30. eatbarmies.co.uk
In a radical departure for a brand that has never before strayed from its USP of making natural potato crisps with regional potatoes, Lincolnshire’s Piper Crisps has launched a trio of pea snacks. The company says they are designed to “tap into the fast growing ‘better for you’ sectorâ€?, SURYLGLQJ OHVV WKDQ NFDO SHU SDFN SURWHLQ DQG Ć“EUH They are available in matar paneer, salsa verde and English PLQW Ĺ´DYRXUV 553 e IRU J 7KH ODXQFK FRLQFLGHV ZLWK a packaging redesign for the entire Pipers range. piperscrisps.com 36
June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
Popcorn Shed has added IRXU QHZ Ĺ´DYRXUV WR LWV line-up. Sweet Cheesus (a mix of cheddar cheese and caramel popcorn), Butterly Nuts (peanut butter caramel with peanuts), Say Cheese! (cheddar cheese) and Berrylicious (caramel & raspberry with dark chocolate) all have an RRP of ÂŁ1.50 for a snack pack or ÂŁ2.99-3.50 for a sharing pack. popcornshed.com
The popping phenomenon is sweeping the snacks market, with producers giving all kinds of grains the treatment. One of the latest examples is Lil’ Pop’s popped sorgum with pink Himalayan salt. This ancient grain snack is said to have a nutty taste and a low water footprint due to the drought-resilience of sorghum. RRP is £1.20 for 28g; trade price £0.75. thelilpops.com
On-trend coconut is the star ingredient in a new ‘better for you’ range marketed under the Ape brand and said to “contain no monkey business!â€?. Coconut Puffs, in lightly salted and Thai FKLOOL Ĺ´DYRXUV DUH WKH ODWHVW addition to the line-up. RRP ÂŁ0.79. apesnacks.com
6DOW 9LQHJDU 9LEHV LV WKH Ć“IWK Ĺ´DYRXU WR MRLQ Hippeas line-up of organic chickpea puffs. *OXWHQ IUHH YHJDQ KLJK LQ Ć“EUH FRQWDLQLQJ QR DGGLWLYHV RU SUHVHUYDWLYHV DQG ZLWK OHVV WKDQ FDORULHV SHU VLQJOH VHUYH J bag, the puffed snacks tick lots of boxes. hippeas.com
a blend of wholesome ingredients
Inspired by the wholefoods unearthed by Nirali and Jag Mankodi on their backpacking adventures around South America, Superfoodio nut clusters blend nuts, seeds and sweet potato in a “nutrient-richâ€? vegan, gluten-free snack. Available in WKUHH VDYRXU\ Ĺ´DYRXUV ĹŠ smoked paprika, black pepper & cardamom and VSLF\ VULUDFKD ĹŠ WKH\ KDYH a trade price of ÂŁ1.90 for 35g (RRP ÂŁ2.99). superfoodio.com
Big Beefys Biltong has launched in 35g snack packs (RRP ÂŁ3) in original, piri piri, chilli and honey PXVWDUG Ĺ´DYRXUV 7KH 6RXWK African snack is produced in Turriff, $EHUGHHQVKLUH IURP 6FRWFK EHHI VXSSOLHG E\ 'DYLGVRQV 6SHFLDOLVW %XWFKHUV LQ ,QYHUXULH bigbeefysbiltong.com
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ARTISAN OR FLOUR F ARTISAN BAKERS www.gilchesters.com Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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NEW BAKING KITS LAUNCHED BY
Bakery specialist Taste Direct have introduced 3 new ambient baking kits to their Baking Agent range. The selection includes an:n: Afternoon Tea Kit,, Cookie Dough Kit and Vanilla Flavour Muffin Kit. The baking kits include everything that a home baker needs to create delicious baked goodies that will taste as if ‘ they were made from scratch’! We have even included stainless steel cutters (and a teddy bear one for the cookie kit), icings, decorations, muffin cases and chocolate chips in case your kitchen cupboard hasn’t got these! You simply add the liquid ingredients to our mixes with minimal effort and your baking will be complete in 30 minutes. The kits are suitable for vegetarians (but not vegan diets) and our mixes have no artificial colours, flavours or preservatives. We are looking for new stockists for the range, so feel free to contact our Taste Team who would be happy to answer any questions. telephone: 01189 761 607 email: tasteinfo@taste-direct.com www.bakingagent.co.uk
bakes
Multi-award winning, authentic, artisan products using natural and, where possible, locally sourced ingredients Supplying businesses of all sizes, delivery or collection available
t: 07792 466319 e: phyllis@lizabakes.co.uk w: www.lizabakes.co.uk @lizabakes
liza_bakes
Fifth generation artisan flour millers based in Oxfordshire. We mill our flour using wheat from local farms to produce top quality flour. Excellent for baking by hand or using in a bread maker.
Three stars awarded for our Six Seed and Wessex Cobber Bread Flours.
01235 768991 | sales@wessexmill.co.uk | wessexmill.co.uk 38
June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
snacks
the world’s first duck crackling
Wilding Snacks is KRSLQJ WR Ĺ?UXIĹ´H some feathersâ€? in the speciality retail trade after securing distribution with Cotswold Fayre for its duck crackling – said WR EH WKH ZRUOGĹ?V Ć“UVW Available in Peking duck, kampot pepper & smoked sea salt and habanero chilli & OHPRQJUDVV Ĺ´DYRXUV WKH crispy duck snack has an RRP of ÂŁ1.89 and a trade price of ÂŁ1.24 for a 25g pouch. wildingsnacks.com
Munchy Seeds’ new salted caramel seeds mix blends URDVWHG VXQĹ´RZHU DQG SXPSNLQ seeds with coconut and sea salt Ĺ´DNHV IRU D Ĺ?VZHHW DQG VDOW\ Ĺ´DYRXUĹ? 7KH QHZ PL[ FRPHV LQ WZR SDFN VL]HV ĹŠ D J EDJ 553 e DQG D J WXE 553 e PXQFK\VHHGV FR XN
The craze for “activatingâ€? nuts to unlock their nutrients has spawned some interesting new NPD activity, including the launch of Boundless. Nuts and seeds are soaked to “kick start nature’s activation processâ€?, baked and seasoned with combinations like cayenne & rosemary and tamari & aleppo. The mixes have already been snapped up by Ocado, Fenwicks and Whole Foods. RRP ÂŁ2.20 for 30g. weareboundless.co.uk
6KHIĆ“HOG EDVHG Other Foods claims to be “push ing boundaries and chal lenging the status quoâ€? with LWV $VLDQ :HVWHUQ IXVLRQ VQDFN VKRWV 7KH Ć“YH VWURQJ range combines roasted broad beans, chickpeas and edamame with Asian Ĺ´DYRXUV VXFK DV .RUHDQ kimchi and Japanese seaweed, as well as classics like smokey BBQ. RRP ÂŁ0.95 for 20g. otherfoodsuk.com
Fitness and health nutrition is mainstreaming, and riding this trend is The Great Stuff Company in Yorkshire, with its new Super Seed Crispy Bites with turmeric or matcha & spirulina. %DVHG RQ EXFNZKHDW Ĺ´RXU FKLFNSHD Ĺ´RXU VHHGV DQG plant protein powders, they DUH KLJK LQ SURWHLQ Ć“EUH DQG omega 3. RRP is ÂŁ2.55 per 50g bag. thegreatstuffcompany. co.uk
Retailers looking for a nut brand with an ethical dimension should check out G-Nuts, which improves lives in Africa while SURGXFLQJ D ORZ VDOW DUWLVDQ snack that is not cooked in oil. West African nuts are VRDNHG DQG VXQ GULHG IRU up to 12 hours before being KDQG FRRNHG LQ EDWFKHV RQ a bed of organic sea salt. RRP ÂŁ1.59 for a 50g pouch or ÂŁ7.99 for a 320g glass bottle. g-nuts.co.uk
April saw the arrival of Noisy Nuts, developed on the back of the craft beer phenomenon by former Boost Drinks marketing manager Noel Allen. Each RI WKH Ĺ´DYRXUV LQ WKH IRXU strong range of peanut snacks pairs with a type of FUDIW EHHU FKLOOL OLPH ZLWK IPA or pickled onion with lager, for example. RRP ÂŁ3 for 95g. noisysnacks.com
Caramelisation in beetroot juice, cane sugar and sea salt gives Miss Nang’s Cashew Beet its pinkish hue, SURYLGLQJ VWDQG RXW LQ D VHD of mainly beige snacks. RRP e IRU J 2WKHU roasted nut snacks from this artisan producer include GellaStachio (pistachios rubbed in a paste of nigella seeds, pomegranate and WXUPHULF DQG 6DI3ULND (saffron and paprika VHDVRQHG FDVKHZV missnang.com
It’s all about pistachios at Borna Foods, a young, /RQGRQ EDVHG FRPSDQ\ launched with the remit of bringing to market products based on pistachios from its IDPLO\ RZQHG IDUP LQ ,UDQ Natural pistachio kernels, roasted pistachios and roasted & salted pistachios are all available for the retail channel in a range of sizes, from 30g up to 500g. bornafoods.com
Justrye has brought the Nordic rye crispbread WUDGLWLRQ WR WKH 8. VQDFNLQJ arena with a range of baked rye ‘nibbles’ in WKUHH Ĺ´DYRXUV VXQĹ´RZHU seed & caraway, tomato & rosemary and sour cream & dill. Each 50g pack (RRP e SURYLGHV RI WKH 5'$ RI Ć“EUH DQG WKH QLEEOHV FRQWDLQ QR DUWLĆ“FLDO ingredients or added sugar. justrye.com
6RIĹ´HV has tweaked its recipes and updated its packaging to highlight WKH Ĺ?DOO QDWXUDO RYHQ URDVWHGĹ? FUHGHQWDOV RI LWV SLWWD FKLSV 7KH company has also enlarged its sharing range, introducing its chilli DQG JDUOLF PLOG FKLSV LQ J EDJV 553 e VRIĹ´HV FRP
Launched earlier this year and carried by Cotswold Fayre, Munky’s ŴDYRXUHG URDVWHG peanuts in shells use a special SURFHVV WR ŴDYRXU WKH SHDQXWV without cracking the shells. They KDYH DQ 553 RI e IRU J DQG FRPH LQ WKUHH ŴDYRXUV JDUOLF FKLOOL and coconut. cotswold-fayre.co.uk
Well&Truly KDV XQYHLOHG D new look and a new smokey SDSULND Ĺ´DYRXU 7KH JOXWHQ IUHH DOO QDWXUDO ORZHU LQ IDW EUDQG ZDV FUHDWHG E\ WZR VLVWHUV LQ ODZ LQ D ELG WR Ĺ?XQMXQNĹ? IDPLOLDU snacks such as tortilla chips and H[WUXGHG VQDFNV 553 LV e IRU D J EDJ wellandtruly.co.uk
Kauri Fine Foods is keen to VHFXUH QHZ VWRFNLVWV IRU LWV signature chilli spiced almonds, ZKLFK SLFNHG XS D WZR VWDU LQ *UHDW 7DVWH 7KH QXWV DUH FXUUHQWO\ RQO\ LQ D KDQGIXO RI outlets in south Manchester, in J SDFNV 553 e DQG J SDFNV 553 e NDXULĆ“QHIRRGV FR XN Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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Expert advice and a wealth of information only a click away... ALL MEMBERS RECEIVE: • Unlimited usage of the members’ Directory • Expert advice through the online interactive Forum • Engaging and useful industry articles • Fine Food Digest delivered to your door • Special rates for staff training • Competitive insurance packages • Affordable legal advice • Useful contact numbers to help you solve business problems • Monthly Guild Bulletin with key articles and advice • FREE HR advice 365 days per year
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Borsari Authentic Luxury Italian Panettone 2018 Range Exclusive to Tenuta Marmorelle Now Taking Orders For Christmas 2018
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01189 298480
Blas ar Fwyd Cyf, Llanrwst, Cymru, LL26 0BT
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Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
41
$ ZRUOG ÀUVW LQ VXVWDLQDEOH SDFNDJLQJ National Flexible can now offer the world’s first zero-emission flexible packaging printed with water-based inks. Part of National Flexibles supply base is powered entirely by hydroelectric energy. This, combined with a water based ink system means that National Flexible can now produce packaging requiring zero solvents and generating no emissions. The self-sustaining energy source at the print site saves on average 880,000 Kgs of CO2 emissions in a year. To put that in to perspective this is the equivalent of 233 journeys around the circumference of the earth or the combined emissions from 586 new ford fiestas (that is a lot)!
Original, Iconic, Corkers.
Not only does this packaging boast sustainability, the water-based inks create a 47% saving on ink when compared with gravure printing. As ink is approximately 40% of printing cost this printing system could mean the holy grail of sustainable packaging which is cost effective too.
01353 699 000 info@corkerscrisps.co.uk www.corkerscrisps.co.uk
If you are looking to transform your packaging then call Natalie Bartlett, Marketing Manager, on 01274 68 55 66 or email at natalie@nationalflexible.net
w! nWeewelcome a trio of the most sought-after honey,
Manuka
Rich, luscious, bold and complex TY LaZ`] _Z ]PLWWd tantalise your taste buds. 250g jars, soft set texture, In 3 strengths: 5+, 10+ and 15+
Carefully sourced and tested from the best New Zealand beekeepers to certify authenticity Hilltop Honey Ltd, Unit 5, Dyffryn Industrial Estate, Pool Road, Newtown, Powys, SY16 3BD Give us a buzz: 01686 689027 info@hilltop-honey.com www.hilltop-honey.com
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June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
DELI RANGE
our pickles are the perfect accompaniment to your
SUMMER BBQ
Contact Sarah Driver
0116 233 8833 | sarah@driverspickles.co.uk Driver's Pickles
Driver's Foods
driverspickles
THE PRODUCERS
news & advice for speciality food & drink suppliers
Goupie drops partnership status as it gears up for expansion
NEWS IN BRIEF Cheese exports grew to £615 million last year – up 23% on 2016. According to the Agriculture & Horticulture Development Board, while cheddar continues to dominate exports, fresh cheeses – and in particular the very un-British mozzarella – saw strong growth. The UK’s biggest markets are Ireland, France and the Netherlands. Producers of unpasteurised raw drinking milk (RDM) can expect more scrutiny from food safety inspectors in the future. This warning from the Food Standards Agency comes after a ƓYH IROG LQFUHDVH LQ 5'0 SURGXFWLRQ LQ WKH 8. between 2012 and 2017. Incidents of human illness associated with RDM have also risen since the start of 2015, reported the FSA.
Brand manager Grace Simpson says investment in equipment will be key to keeping Goupie production in-house
By Mick Whitworth
The family owners of Kentbased confectionery brand Goupie hope a switch from partnership to private limited company status will make it easier to finance their next stage of manufacturing expansion. Goupie produces 17 flavours of a “chewy chocolate confection� that has been made by founder Janet Simpson’s family for over 50 years. The firm now sells mainly through distibutors serving the independent retail sector but also to the hamper market, hotels, a few export clients and direct to consumers. According to brand manager
Grace Simpson, a partner in the business with parents Janet and Joe, Goupie saw “significant growth� last year, partly driven by demand for the veganfriendly variants in its range. “While we have been growing organically up to now,� she told FFD, “we can see we might need outside investment at some stage. We would like to continue manufacturing ourselves, which needs large kit, and large kit needs a large site.� Recent trials with a German equipment supplier suggested parts of the production process could be successfully automated. “This would enable us to increase our capacity
without comproming the product,� said Simpson. “It would just take out some of the hard work for our production staff – we currently handcut every piece of Goupie, for example. “This is the first time we have found equipment we think could work for us, and we’ve been trialling with other companies too. “We’re proud of the fact we manufacture ourselves. We also have a very clear idea of what kind of business we are – we are trying to create something sustainable, where people want to work. But, in short, equipment is key for us.�
Since April, all food businesses have been required to put in place steps to keep levels of acrylamide in their products as low as possible. Acrylamide is a cancer-causing chemical produced during high-temperature cooking of starchy foods. To cut acrylamide levels when high-starch foods such as crisps, cakes and biscuits are being made, the Food Standards Agency advises aiming for a golden yellow colour or lighter when frying, baking or toasting. Honey producers will be celebrating new rules that further restrict the use of neonicotinoid pesticides, associated with falling bee numbers. The latest proposals, which will see a ban on outdoor XVH RI WKUHH VSHFLĆ“F neonicotinoids, follow new evidence that suggests their risk is greater than previously understood. The growing problem of recalls caused by undeclared allergens on food labels has been highlighted by Runwick Roastery in Surrey, which was forced to recall some of its Cupsmith 7UXO\ 0DJQLĆ“FHQW :KLWH +RW &KRFRODWH LQ April because it contained milk that was not mentioned on the label.
GRAB YOUR PASSPORT INTERNATIONAL SHOWS BY EMILY MOSEDALE of British pavilions organiser PS8 Speciality & Fine Food Asia 2018 Suntec, Singapore 17 – 19th July 2018 Launched off the back of Speciality & Fine Food Fair London, Speciality & Fine Food Asia is aimed at new exporters to this small but important market for UK premium products. The inaugural event in 2017 saws 161 exhibitors IURP FRXQWULHV DQG ƓYH
national pavilions, and nearly 2,939 trade visitors from 30 countries including Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Philippines, Vietnam, Hong Kong, China, Australia. There are opportunities to join the UK Pavilion either with a pod starting at ÂŁ3,750 or a stand from ÂŁ695 per sq m. Last year saw the likes of Deans of Huntly, Cottage Delight and Karimix take part.
SIAL, Paris 2018 Paris Nord, Villepinte 21– 25th October 2018 SIAL Paris will be the most important international food & drink trade show this year, with around 7,000 exhibitors and an estimated 150,000 buyers from 194 countries. 7KH WRS ƓYH VHFWRUV of interest to visitors to 2016’s exhibition were JURFHU\ DQG ƓQH IRRG PHDW organic products, dairy and confectionery. With British pavilions in the international, drinks, frozen and dairy halls, SIAL
is set to be one of the most important tradeshows for UK food and drink producers this year. Over 100 British companies are expected to exhibit on the UK pavilion, ZKHUH SURGXFHUV ZLOO EHQHƓW from the Great British branding. There are a few spaces left, with prices from £585 per sq m. Biofach 2019 Nuremburg, Germany 13 – 16th February 2019 Biofach is billed as the world’s biggest trade fair for
organic food and provides a great platform for small producers to launch in to the international market with support from the UK pavilion organisers. Recruitment will begin shortly for exhibitors to join the UK Pavilion. Grant funding is available to successful applicants for this event and is up to the value of £1,500 per exhibitor. Last year’s pavilion included Luscombe Drinks, Seed & Bean, Higher Living and Suma Wholefoods.
PS8 is event delivery partner of the UK Food & Drink Exporters Association and organises British pavilions at trade shows around the world. Email emilymosedale@ps-8.com for more details on exhibiting. Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
43
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55 YEARS
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June 2018 | Vol.19 Issue 5
EMAIL: nick.wild@innavisions.com
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SHELF TALK
Cotswold Fayre debuts exclusive Ministers of Taste brand By Lauren Phillips
Cotswold Fayre has launched its own exclusive range of traditional food gifts with contemporary branding in a bid to move away from the “old-fashioned� packaging the category is known for. The distributor unveiled Ministers of Taste during its Christmas launch event last month. The initial range will consist of well-known food and drink gifting products, including tea, cake, shortbread biscuits, fudge, sweets, jams, marmalades and chutneys which are available individually or as part of a gift pack. Aside from bringing something new to the food gifting market, Cotswold Fayre’s chief executive Paul Hargreaves told FFD that the company had been thinking about launching its own brand range for a while. “The main reason to launch it is for the export market,� he said, “but also, being who we are, it will be for the UK as well.� But the company hopes the branding will bring something new to the food gifting
market, with the packaging including iconic visual imagery from the Sixties and the British culture around that decade. “The reason for the look is to get away from the clichĂŠd ‘Victoriana’ branding that is common with these types of product,â€? said Hargreaves. “For example, I’ve seen a lot of British brands with that ‘cottagey’ look in a store in Switzerland.â€? Hargreaves added that though the new range is not targeting any one age group the packaging would resonate with middle-aged consumers who grew up in that decade. “The packaging is familiar to British ’60s culture and the symbols around that time are very well known,â€? he said. “We wanted the range to instantly belong to the UK, but with a contemporary rather than old-fashioned feel with modern packaging formats and vibrant colours.â€? The Ministers of Taste range is now available for pre-order for a September delivery date, in time for the Christmas trading period.
cotswold-fayre.co.uk
Craft beer inspires new flavoured nuts A range of peanut snacks LQVSLUHG E\ FUDIW EHHU ŴDYRXUV KDV ODXQFKHG WR WKH 8. PDUNHW Noisy Noel’s Noisy Nuts, D QHZ FRPSDQ\ EDVHG LQ %DOO\JRZDQ 1RUWKHUQ ,UHODQG KDV GHYHORSHG IRXU ŴDYRXUHG VHDVRQLQJV WR SDLU ZLWK GLIIHUHQW W\SHV RI FUDIW EHHU 7KH VHDVRQLQJV DLP WR DFFHQWXDWH WKH FKDUDFWHULVWLFV DQG QRWHV ZLWKLQ WKH FUDIW EHHU DQG LQFOXGH FKLOOL OLPH SDLUHG ZLWK ,3$ FKLOOL EHHI ZLWK 6WRXW FKRFRODWH RUDQJH SDLUHG ZLWK 2UDQJH ,3$ DQG SLFNOHG RQLRQ
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NQHZ WKHUH ZDV DQ RSSRUWXQLW\ WR SURGXFH D FRPSOHPHQWDU\ LQWHUHVWLQJ VQDFN IRU WKH EXR\DQW and increasingly growing PDUNHW Ĺ? VDLG IRXQGHU DQG IRUPHU PDUNHWLQJ PDQDJHU IRU HQHUJ\ drink brand Boost Drinks, Noel $OOHQ “Craft beer drinkers are all DERXW WDVWH DQG ZHĹ?UH JLYLQJ WKHP D SURGXFW WKDW ZLOO HQKDQFH WKHLU GULQNLQJ H[SHULHQFH Ĺ? $OO IRXU SURGXFWV LQ WKH LQLWLDO UDQJH ZLOO KDYH DQ 553 RI e DW J SHU SRW noisysnacks.com
Displays that pay PEP-UP YOUR SHELVES WITH THE GUILD OF FINE FOOD’S RESIDENT MERCHANDISING QUEEN JILLY SITCH How many deli workers does it take to change D OLJKW EXOE" 6HULRXVO\ , Ć“QG P\VHOI DVNLQJ WKLV TXHVWLRQ IDU WRR RIWHQ LQ SRRUO\ OLW VKRSV <RX PLJKW KDYH VSHQW KRXUV GUHVVLQJ \RXU VKHOYHV ZULWLQJ XS ODEHOOLQJ DQG SODQQLQJ \RXU KRW VSRWV EXW LWĹ?V DOO IRU QRWKLQJ LI QRQH RI \RXU FXVWRPHUV FDQ VHH WKHP WKURXJK WKH JORRP $VLGH IURP PDNLQJ WKLQJV YLVLEOH OLJKWLQJ LV YLWDO IRU VHWWLQJ WKH PRRG 6RIW ZKLWH OLJKW LV WKH EHVW ĹŠ EULJKW HQRXJK EXW QRW KDUVK DQG DUWLĆ“FLDO 6WHHU FOHDU RI FRORXUHG EXOEV HVSHFLDOO\ RQHV WKDW FDVW EOXH OLJKW $QJOHV DUH YHU\ LPSRUWDQW WRR , Ć“QG WUDFN OLJKWLQJ LV WKH EHVW W\SH RI Ć“WWLQJ EHFDXVH LWĹ?V DGMXVWDEOH DQG FDQ EH SRLQWHG RQ VSHFLĆ“F DUHDV 1RW HYHU\WKLQJ QHHGV WR EH DWWDFNHG VWUDLJKW RQ WKRXJK 5HPHPEHU WKDW VKLQ\ VXUIDFHV OLNH FRXQWHU IURQWV DQG JODVV ERWWOHV QHHG D PRUH indirect treatment. $QG HYHQ LI \RX GR UHPHPEHU WR UHSODFH WKRVH EXOEV GRQĹ?W IRUJHW WKH EHVW OLJKW Ć“WWLQJ RI DOO 0D[LPLVLQJ WKH DPRXQW RI QDWXUDO OLJKW LQ \RXU VKRS LV DOZD\V D EULJKW LGHD
WHAT’S NEW Poptails by LAPP has DGGHG WZR QHZ Ĺ´DYRXUV WR LWV DGXOWV RQO\ DOFRKROLF Calippo-shaped cocktail VRUEHWV :KLVN\ 6RXU PDGH with whisky, orange & JUDSHIUXLW DQG 6SULW] PDGH with Prosecco, Bitters & Blood Orange. RRP ÂŁ4.50 for each 110ml ice lolly. poptailsbylapp.com Tyrrells Crisps has created a Posh Prawn &RFNWDLO Ĺ´DYRXU ZLWK a “dash of brandyâ€?, as a twist on the 1970s dish. It comes in 150g packs (RRP ÂŁ2.19). J ZLOO ODXQFK ODWHU this year. tyrrellscrisps.co.uk Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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SHELF TALK WHAT’S NEW Although well known for its jams and preserves, Tiptree has released fruit & vegetable crisps in six gluten- and dairyfree varieties: beetroot & parsnip, tomato & cucumber, pepper & courgette, pineapple, pear, and apple. RRP is £1.29. tiptree.com Stokes Sauces is now producing its Real and Garlic Mayonnaise in 210g jars alongside its 345g jars. The company is also ODXQFKLQJ QHZ ŴDYRXUV including lemon, blushed tomato and chilli. stokessauces.co.uk Lyme Bay Winery has launched Lugger Rum, a Caribbean spiced rum aged in oak barrels at its premises in Devon. It is spiced with nutmeg, orange peel, cloves, cinnamon, ginger and vanilla. Trade price £22.99 per 70cl bottle (RRP £38.50). lymebaywinery.co.uk
My magic ingredient Aduna baobab powder ZOE ADJONYOH Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen %DREDE DOVR NQRZQ DV 0RQNH\ %UHDG is a 100 per cent natural and organic raw fruit from the baobab tree, or monkey EUHDG WUHH DV LWĹ?V NQRZQ LQ $IULFD ,WĹ?V WKH only fruit in the world that dries on the branch, producing a natural fruit powder that’s packed with nutritional goodness – low in both sugar and fat, yet high in Ć“EUH This superfruit is now available in powder form in all good health shops DQG LQGHSHQGHQWV $QG ZLWK LWV P\ULDG RI health properties, just a teaspoon in your smoothie, sprinkled over morning oats, or added to a salad dressing will turn your day around! At our restaurant, we use it to make EDREDE EXWWHU WR Ĺ´DYRXU SRSFRUQ DQG grilled roasted rosemary corn as well DV IRU PDULQDWLQJ WLODSLD Ć“OOHWV ,Q VDODG dressings, its light, citrusy notes are IDQWDVWLF Zoe bought hers direct from aduna.com
Just a teaspoon in your smoothie, sprinkled over morning oats or added to a salad dressing, will turn your day around
The Spice Pioneer launches G&T garnish kit By Lauren Phillips
Herbs and spice producer Seasoned Pioneers has developed a Gin & Tonic Garnish Box under a new brand called The Spice Pioneer. The box contains a selection of spices and botanical ingredients designed to complement the popular gin & tonic drink. Director of Seasoned Pioneers and founder of the Spice Pioneer brand, Matt Webster said he decided to launch the box after initially developing a Spice Pioneers Dinner Party Box. “I thought about what would work with our dinner box,� Webster told FFD. “There’s been a huge rise in gin so I thought it would only be right to make a garnish box to complement it.� The box contains eight ingredients: rose petals, lavender flowers, green cardamom pods, pink peppercorns, juniper berries, star anise, saffron 46
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threads and rosemary. Its trade price is ÂŁ8.95, RRP ÂŁ12.95. The product, which is available to farm shops and delicatessens, is pitched as the “perfect gift to complement ginâ€? which consumers can use during a dinner party occasion to experiment with or liven up their favourite cocktail or G&T. The Spice Pioneer also operates a subscription box
service containing a range of international spices and seasonings for consumers to create a meal for four people. Each box contains a menu, shopping list and recipe cards and a link to a playlist of music. The variety of spices is kept as a surprise until delivered to the consumer. seasonedpioneers.com spicepioneer.com
Greedy Goat, which has been selling its goats’ milk ice cream at London’s Borough Market for over seven years, is now targeting the retail VHFWRU ZLWK D UDQJH RI HLJKW QHZ Ĺ´DYRXUV The range – sold in 500ml glass jars (RRP e ĹŠ LQFOXGHV WKUHH Ĺ´DYRXUV QDPHG DIWHU %ULWLVK SXEOLF Ć“JXUHV KLJKOLJKWHG DV LOOXVWUDWLRQV RQ WKH EUDQGLQJ 7KHVH LQFOXGH 7KHUHVDĹ?V Chocolate Orange, Margoat Thatcher the Biscuit 6QDWFKHU DQG +DUU\Ĺ?V UH0$5./(EOH %DQDQD 7KH RWKHU Ć“YH Ĺ´DYRXUV KDYH VLPLODU FUHDWLYH QDPHV LQFOXGLQJ , JRW 3UREOHPV %XW D &KHUU\ $LQĹ?W 2QH FKHUU\ %DNHZHOO 7KH *RDWIDWKHU VDOWHG FDUDPHO DQG %LOO\ 9DQLOO\ YDQLOOD greedygoat.co.uk
Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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Bringing the taste and aroma of a Greek Summer in a jar
Delicious range of Jams, Marmalades and traditional Greek spoon sweets, ideal for breakfast or dessert treat.
Sour Cherry Spoon Sweet
For further information contact us info@grekafoods.com 07484 829197 or order via www.grekafoods.com
Blackberry & Thyme
New for 2018 Gluten Free Bake-off Loaves Continuing our innovation in Bake at Home %HQHÀW IURP KLJKHU EDNHU\ PDUJLQV ZLWK RXU KDQGPDGH SDUW EDNHG ORDYHV DQG SDVWULHV
www.burrenbalsamics.com susie@burrenbalsamics.com + 44 (0) 7802 566029
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SHELF TALK Ross & Ross assembles new ingredients boxes By Lauren Phillips
Aiming to perk up the great British barbecue and traditional Sunday lunch is fine food company Ross & Ross with the launch of two new ingredients boxes this month. The British BBQ box (RRP ÂŁ22.50) arrives
WHAT’S TRENDING NICK BAINES KEEPS YOU UP-TO-DATE WITH THE NEWEST DISHES, FLAVOURS AND INNOVATIONS IN FOOD & DRINK 1
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in time for the upcoming barbecue season and the company says it brings together “all the necessary elements for the BBQ lover into a neat gift boxâ€?. It includes a 250ml BBQ Oil (a Cotswold rapeseed oil with smoke & garlic), a BBQ Jam (medium and can be used as a condiment or last minute glaze), a BBQ pork rub (a mix of onion, celery, pepper, paprika, coriander and basil), and a BBQ salt. The British Roast Dinner box (RRP ÂŁ19.50) was developed following the success of the company’s Christmas Roast Dinner box, and includes a brand-new roast chicken rub, pigs in blankets dust and a 250ml roast potato oil. There is also roast dinner dust, an umamiinspired rub, recommended in a Yorkshire pudding mix, gravy or over vegetables.
WHAT’S NEW Apple and strawberry LV WKH QHZ ŴDYRXU from juice producer Coldpress. Made with apple juice, strawberries and a little elderberry juice, the juice has an RRP of £2.80 per 750ml. cold-press.com Haynes Food has UHEUDQGHG LWV SUHVHUYHV and condiments as Haynes Gourmet. Lines include candied jalapenos, a popular Tex-Mex product from South America, as well as candied jalapeno relish and a candied jalapeno BBQ sauce. haynesgourmet.com
rossandrossfood.co.uk
1 Japanese booze food With Dalston’s be-
ORYHG \DNLWRUL UHVWDXUDQW -LGRUL UHFHQWO\ RSHQLQJ D ODUJH VLWH LQ &RYHQW *DUGHQ DQG %ULJKWRQĹ?V %LQFKR <DNLWRUL VWLOO SURYLQJ LQFUHGLEO\ GLIĆ“FXOW WR JHW LQ -DSDQHVH ERR]H IRRG VHHPV WR EH D SUHWW\ KRW SURVSHFW <DNLWRUL FRXOG SURYH LQWHUHVWLQJ for meat counters this barbecue season due WR WKH LQFOXVLRQ RI XQORYHG LWHPV OLNH FKLFNHQ hearts and wings. These are pepped up with a brushed on marinade called tare – made from soy sauce, mirin, sake and sugar. 2 Bulletproof coffee %OHQGLQJ Ć“OWHU FRIIHH with a teaspoon of butter and MCT oil is known as Bullet, or bulletproof coffee. Popular among WKH Ć“WQHVV FURZG DV ZHOO DV WKRVH IROORZLQJ WKH KLJK IDW NHWRJHQLF GLHW WKH GULQN GHOLYHUV \RXU caffeine with a healthy dose of Omega 3 and 6, as well as medium chain tricycerides (MCT). 0&7 RLO LV EDVLFDOO\ MXVW D PRUH UHĆ“QHG FRFRQXW oil, and when mixed into your coffee with the EXWWHU GHOLYHUV D XQLTXH ULFKQHVV DQG PRUH substantial body. Wellness cafĂŠ chain Crussh has been knocking them out across their city locations, but the simple recipe could easily EH UHSOLFDWHG LQ DQ\ VKRS VHUYLQJ FRIIHH RU DW home. 3 CBD oil 'HULYHG IURP KHPS FDQQDELGLRO LV WKH SHUIHFWO\ OHJDO QRQ SV\FKRDFWLYH SDUW RI WKH FDQQDELV SODQW DQG KDV EHHQ FRYHUHG E\ Time PDJD]LQH IRU LWV XVDJH LQ WUHDWLQJ D ORQJ OLQH RI conditions, including epilepsy and cancer. With DQWL DQ[LHW\ DQWL LQĹ´DPPDWRU\ DQG QHXURSURWHFWLYH SURSHUWLHV &%' LV EHLQJ LQIXVHG LQWR FKRFRODWHV OLNH %DUV DQG 1RW 3RW +RZHYHU Bournemouth-based High Tide produce a cold brew coffee infused with CBD offering the strap OLQH ĹŒVWUHVV IUHHĹ? 7KH FKLOOHG GULQN GHOLYHUV \RXU caffeine kick without the jitters and is reported to aid concentration.
Luscombe Drinks KDV GHYHORSHG D new range of organic sparkling fruit waters to cater to demand for no added sugar drinks. It consists of passionfruit, sour cherry and raspberry, packaged in 27cl glass bottles each with an RRP of ÂŁ1.95. luscombe.co.uk
Spice Pots turns to tins with new rebrand East Lothian-based Spice Pots has rebranded its range of spice blends, repackaging them into paint-pot style tins. Director Melanie Auld said the re-brand aims WR UHĹ´HFW WKH TXDOLW\ RI WKH SURGXFW LQVLGH DGGLQJ that the tins are on-trend and upmarket. “As our blends are a store cupboard essential they will stay fresh much longer in the tins, as OLJKW DQG KHDW FDQ GHSOHWH WKH Ĺ´DYRXU RI WKH spices,â€? she said. The tins now contain 40g (rather WKDQ J JLYLQJ FXVWRPHUV HLJKW VHUYLQJV SHU WLQ spicepots.com
Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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DELI OF THE MONTH Barbakan Delicatessen and Bakery has been serving the people of Chorlton for more than half a century. And this Manchester institution’s traditional style of retailing is still doing the business despite demographic shifts, pressure from the supermarkets and changing tastes in bread. Interview by Michael Lane
Circle of loaf FRANKIE DYER IS JUST MONTHS AWAY from ushering a third generation of her family into a Manchester business that she was born into herself. In the meantime, she is putting her pregnancy cravings to good use during the dayto-day running of Barbakan Delicatessen. “I could be upstairs right now, going ‘I really want a beef sandwich with some Manchego’, so I’ll come down and slice it myself,” she tells FFD, “but I cost it as I do it.” Some of these sandwich-making whims do end up on the specials board, provided they meet the approval of the deli’s kitchen staff. When she’s not exploring new combinations, 30-year-old Dyer is at the helm of a deli-bakery that has become something of an institution in the district of Chorlton and famed for its bread city-wide. Although Barbakan has always been part of her life, Dyer has only worked as a director here
VITAL STATISTICS
Location: 67-71 Manchester Road, Chortlon-Cum-Hardy, Manchester, M21 9PW Established: 1964 Turnover: £1.4m (retail only) No. of staff: 21 (retail), plus 14 bakers Retail space: 1,500 sq f
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for three-and-a-half years. She now has the task of maintaining a tradition that stems back more than half a century. Barbakan opened in 1964 in smaller premises on the same spot, a few miles to the south west of the city centre, as a Polish bakery. After years of working in various food businesses, Dyer’s Polish-Italian father Stefan Najduch bought the bakery in 1984 and has overseen its expansion into the full-service deli you see today, as well as building up a wholesale bakery customer base of 100 other retailers and restaurants. If you’ve eaten good bread in Manchester, it’s likely to have come from Barbakan. The heart of the operation is just as impressive as its sphere of influence. When you enter via the “suntrap” outdoor terrace, you can just about make out the wall of bread through the displays of ambient goods.
A member of staff will greet you at the bread section and then continue to serve you along the full-length counter – through the cakes, food-to-go, coffee and a packed cheese section before following the serveover around the corner to administer deli salads and olives and, finally, slicing to order from a full gamut of Continental charcuterie. The whole experience is refreshingly traditional. The staff are all decked out in full uniforms complete with tabards and there is even a ticket dispenser at the entrance for a numbered queuing system that is used on Saturdays. But it’s also unpretentious. “It’s more of a personal service,” says Dyer. “It’s what can make us stand out from supermarkets, aside from the quality of the food. Having a chat with your customers.” Barbakan has always served its customers this way – at least since Dyer’s father took
over the business. Despite stepping back into a more chairman-like role, Stefan Najduch is still regularly on the shop floor. When FFD meets him, he echoes his daughter’s concerns about competing with the supermarkets – especially the German discounters who he says are altering consumers’ value perceptions when it comes to Continental products and bread. His theory is that Barbakan’s style of “simple and relaxed” retailing will see a customer spend less than they do in supermarkets and get better value – because they’re not being pressured, by lurid signage and promos, to buy things they don’t want. Unlike a skeleton-crewed branch of Lidl, Barbakan is a very labour-intensive operation. Some 21 staff are employed across the 1,500 sq ft retail area while 14 bakers work across three shifts in the 1,000 sq ft bakery at the rear of the building. Many of the team have been in place for more than 20 years and remember Dyer as a child. There is even one member of staff who pre-dates her father’s ownership. “We’ve got good people in good positions that we’ve trusted for a really long time,” says Dyer. A workforce this big doesn’t come cheap, though, and Dyer says the introduction of workplace pensions and increases in the National Living Wage have had an impact on profit. Even so, the retail side of Barbakan, which accounts for 70% of turnover in the business has annual sales of £1.4m and approximately 3% growth year-on-year. Even if it seems like things are ticking over nicely, Dyer has still been ringing the changes since she took over day-to-day running. However, she has had to adapt from the constantly churning approach of her previous career in fashion retail.
“When I first started working here fulltime, I thought every four days you should change things and customers were saying ‘Where’s this? Where’s that? I don’t like it’.” She may have ceased tinkering but Dyer did spearhead a refresh of the shop about a year into her tenure. The frontage was spruced up and the vinyl wraps that covered the windows were stripped away but the biggest changes were on the shop floor. Dyer scrapped the previous double-sided and linear shelving for Barbakan’s extensive range of ambient goods and replaced it with modular units from WBC that are deeper can be easily moved and adjusted. These units actually allow for more stock on a smaller footprint, which has given Dyer the space to counteract a change that is beyond her control – supermarkets listing items that she was carrying and undercutting the price to boot. “We were thinking we can’t compete with these ambient products that keep going to supermarkets,” she says. “Sales were going down. So, we increased the indoor seating, increased our menus and hot food has shot up.” It now accounts for 13% of monthly sales, on average. As a comparison, cakes and pastries make up 10%, as do deli meats. Salads and olives are about 7% of takings. The cheese counter, which is 6% of sales, reflects Barbakan’s theme of ‘Continental plus local’ with a 60-strong line-up that sees Gouda and Parmigiano sharing space with Leagram’s Lancashire and Burt’s Blue. Curiously, whole cheeses are portioned and vac-packed daily rather than cut to order – an efficient system that works for those on both sides of the counter. Ambient groceries, spanning all the major
MUST-STOCKS Barbakan maple & pecan granola Chorlton-cum-Hardy Apiary honey Barbakan Chorlton Sourdough Barbakan German Norlander bread Barbakan homemade quiche Bach’s Deli pesto Worthy Farm cheddar Barbakan Polish traditional baked cheesecake Pek Polish Boczek (bacon) Fiorucci Italian Mortadella with pistacchio Burt’s Blue cheese Agromonte Italian Pomodoro Passata Matilde Vincenzo Amaretti Fingers Winiary Polish Plum Butter Jam
CONTINUED ON PAGE 53
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GREAT TASTE GOLDEN FORK DINNER SUNDAY* 2 SEPTEMBER 2018
THE INTERCONTINENTAL LONDON PARK LANE, ONE HAMILTON PLACE, LONDON *please note the change from Monday to Sunday night
The evening kicks off with a drinks reception in the Park Lane Suites; meet and chat to a host of producers who will serve up their award-winning products. A four-course 3-star dinner, curated by Executive Chef Ashley Wells, will be served in the glittering setting of the Ballroom. The evening will unfold, revealing the Golden Fork winners from each region, before the climax and announcement of the 2018 Supreme Champion. A cheese-board curated from the World Cheese Awards will be served and there will be dancing in the Park Lane Suites.
TICKET PRICE INCLUDES: 1800
Drinks & Reception; sample 2018 award-winning products
1945
Four-course Dinner with wine
2230
Cheese Board and Dancing
Guild of Fine Food Members Non-members Dress: Jackets
Tickets are limited and sold on a first come, first serve basis. To avoid disappointment, please reserve your tickets today. Contact: Joanne Myram +44 (0)1747 825200 or email joanne. myram@gff.co.uk
To reserve tickets or a table, please contact joanne.myram@gff.co.uk
Reserve your ticket(s) today gff.co.uk/gta | greattasteawards.co.uk
£140 +vat £160+vat
$KYMPHSJ½RIJSSH KVIEXXEWXIE[EVHW
DELI OF THE MONTH Continental cuisines, still contribute 15% but the current line-up also reflects how Barbakan has evolved from a Polish shop into a much broader church. “We used to order Polish cucumbers in brine by the pallet and now we get a couple of cases,” says Dyer. “It’s crazy how much it’s changed.” In less than a decade, Chorlton has filled up with yummy mummies and young professionals and turned what had been a Polish migrant area since the ’60s into one of the UK’s trendiest districts – it was voted one of the top 10 hippest places in the UK as recently as January. The cultural shift is evident in Barbakan’s most important category. Whereas the bakery used to sell 30-40 loaves of Polish White and Polish Black on a Saturday, it barely manages 10 now. Flavoured breads like cheese & bacon and chocolate have fallen by the wayside as consumers’ whims change, too. These days, everyone wants sourdoughs and ryes. The bakery produces more than five variations of each style and is even developing more recipes to satisfy demand. The shop sells in excess of 200 loaves on Saturdays and bread sales account for 16% of monthly takings. Even though economies of scale from the wholesale side (it produces
a staggering 15,000 loaves a week) allows Barbakan to offer a better range than any other bakery in the city, Dyer says bread sales are falling and it’s getting harder and harder. “You’re just constantly fighting against supermarkets’ cheap loaves of bread and against this notion that bread’s really unhealthy for you, but it’s not. It’s supermarket bread that is,” she says. “If you look at our labels – it’s flour, water and salt. You read a label in a supermarket and it just goes on for days. “We refuse to make a cheaper loaf. We use the best quality flours, we hand-mould, we hand-bake it.” For Dyer and her father, bread is a microcosm of the threat that independents now face. “People nowadays are just so much more concerned with how much they can get for a fiver,” she says. “They’ll go to Lidl and Aldi and say ‘Look what I’ve bought for £2.50’ but it’s complete rubbish. The majority of people don’t care about quality.” But there is still a healthy minority. Chorlton has also become a destination, with foodies travelling in from both Cheshire and Lancashire to do a full independent shop – between Barbakan, the greengrocer next door, butcher W H Frost, fishmonger Out of the Blue. Add this passing trade to the horde of
regulars who come in and order the same thing at the same table, every day, and it’s clear that it’s not all doom and gloom for Barbakan. There are also plenty of punters out there waiting to be converted. “It still surprises me now when I’m here and people walk past and they’re going: ‘What’s that place?’ and the person with them says ‘Oh, I dunno. I think it’s some Polish shop’.” While the refurbished frontage might draw in a few more sceptics – especially when the shop’s weekly Saturday sausage pan is in full swing on the terrace – Dyer has also been introducing one-off events like cheese & wine evenings and the August Bank Holiday ‘Man Vs Sausage’, where contestants take on a 25-inch Bratwurst in a 25-inch roll. With so much potential on one site, don’t expect to see another branch of Barbakan appearing any time soon. Dyer is of the same mind as her father. “He always says: ‘I have one and I do it to the best of my ability’. And you do see people who expand and have changed and then you notice the quality and then the service starts to go down.” That kind of sensible thinking should ensure Barbakan’s future for generations to come. barbakan-deli.co.uk
If you look at our bread labels – it’s flour, water and salt. You read a label in a supermarket and it just goes on for days.
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GUILD TALK 7KH *XLOG RI )LQH )RRG UHSUHVHQWV RYHU ĹľQH IRRG VKRSV DQG VSHFLDOLVW VXSSOLHUV :DQW WR MRLQ WKHP" ZZZ JII FR XN
View from HQ
I’d bet the value to food producers of ‘un-hip’ market-town retailers way outstrips revenue from elite urban stores and coffee meccas
By John Farrand managing director
IT MAY HAVE BEEN subtle, but last month’s FFD Big Picture – that tongue-in-cheek ‘No Hipsters’ chalkboard on Cape Town’s trendy Waterfront – provided a gentle piss-take of those who believe the food world revolves around craft everything, beards, and playing ping-pong while you eat and drink on a Friday night out. It raised mirth across the Guild office. I’ve said it before: I’m chuffed the younger generation are even
Meet the Guild Steering Group 6DQJLWD Tryner Owner, Delilah Fine Foods, Nottingham and Leicester MOST ADMIRED BRAND... I hate to say this, but it’s probably Wagamama. I’m in awe of how they can cram customers in, turn tables in 30-40 minutes, charge £30 for a bowl of noodle soup and a beer and send them away feeling they’ve had a healthy, budget supper‌genius!
....AND MOST ADMIRED 5(7$,/(5" Delilah probably wouldn’t exist without my hubby introducing me to Valvona & Crolla. The jaw-dropping experience of walking into their Edinburgh store as a deli virgin – the smells, the banter, the exotic food – is still with me 15 years later. It left me in a complete food ecstasy bubble that’s yet to be popped %(67 %86,1(66 020(17" Moving Delilah to its larger home in Nottingham in 2012, which transformed it from a hobby business into a proper one. It also coincided with winning the first ever Deli of the Year‌ a bonkers and very rewarding year. %,**(67 %86,1(66 &/$1*(5" We’d waited all day for a special delivery: a whole Emmenthal and a whole ComtÊ, direct from France. When the van finally arrived we
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
Guild of Fine Food Guild House, 23b Kingsmead Business Park, Shaftesbury Road, Gillingham, Dorset SP8 5FB UK Tel: +44 (0) 1747 825200 Fax: +44 (0) 1747 824065 info@gff.co.uk gff.co.uk
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bothered with decent food and are, by all accounts, spending money on it. But FFD’s news analysis this month (p13) explores the fact that food retail needs to remember its older customers too. And I don’t mean just in the “grey pound� way. Sitting with our exalted panel of judges for the first round of the revamped Shop of the Year in mid May, I was reminded there’s a big country out there, and myriad shoppers. Sometimes our trade gets a little over-fascinated with metropolitan retail: the super-cool food hubs – London, Manchester, Bristol, possibly Leeds? – that create their own noise, trends and culture. There’s no doubt they’re good for filling up the pages of the Sunday supplements, but looking down the SotY longlist revealed few entries from these food hot-beds. Too hip to be a part of such a thing? Perhaps. Or have we forgotten that there are hundreds
were so excited that three of us clambered into the back. A combination of 100kg of cheese, three frenzied Delilahites, a slight incline and a poorly applied handbrake, and cheese rolling took on a new meaning. We’re still contesting the whiplash claims of the taxi driver whose car we kissed (and who wasn’t actually in the car at the time!) GUILTY FOOD SECRET Straight out of Uni I was shortlisted for a job in the marketing department for Cheesestrings. My sales pitch at the interview included raving about their merits and still makes me cringe, not to mention the amount I consumed in the name of research.
WHO’S WHO AT GUILD HQ Managing director: John Farrand Marketing director: Tortie Farrand Commercial director: Christabel Cairns Sales director: Sally Coley
Sales manager: Ruth Debnam Sales executive: Becky Stacey Events assistant: Stephanie Rogers Operations manager: Karen Price
of market towns across the UK, each with a least a deli-cumsandwich-bar, but many with a full-on delicatessen, a farm shop on the outskirts or a garden centre selling premium chutneys. I’d bet the value to food producers of these ‘un-hip’ retailers way outstrips the revenue from elite urban stores and coffee meccas. The survival of our national wholesalers bears this out too. Next stage for the SotY shortlist is a mystery shop by Shopper Anonymous to check out their merchandising and customer service. Then we send in the fine food experts to do deeper analysis on a second and maybe a third visit. It’s a thorough process, conducted by people who understand the trade: no parachuted-in celebs here. Winners will be announced in September. I’ll do the press conference naked or eat my hat if the winner is an artisan coffee bar with deli counter in a suburb of Bristol.
BURGER KING OR M&S 6$/$'" It’s even worse, I’m afraid: I love KFC’s Oreo shakes. How do they make them so crunchy and creamy?! HALF FULL OR HALF (037<" Positive mental attitude - you can’t run a small business without it. 35,9$7( 3$66,21" Private and passion? Two shops, two young kids and a cheese obsession don’t leave a lot of time, but I do need a bit of escapism, and magic is mine: I love reading fantasy books.
• The retailers and suppliers on the Guild Steering Group meet quarterly to help shape and improve services to members and the wider industry. Want to join them? Email john.farrand@gff.co.uk for details.
Operations assistants: Claire Powell, Janet Baxter, Hugo Morisetti Training & events manager: Jilly Sitch Circulation manager: Nick Crosley
Financial controller: Stephen Guppy Accounts manager: Denise Ballance Accounts assistant: Julie Coates Chairman: Bob Farrand Director: Linda Farrand
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New taxes like the sugary drinks levy could inflate prices on more products, affecting manufacturers
The word on Westminster By Edward Woodall ACS FOOD IS A HOT TOPIC in Westminster at the minute – or more precisely, the debate about childhood obesity. 2QH RI WKH ƓUVW DFWLRQV RI 7KHUHVD May’s premiership was to launch the Childhood Obesity Strategy, which had industry-led reformulation of HFSS (high fat. salt and sugar) products at its heart. It kicked off with the Soft Drinks Industry Levy and the SURPLVH WKLV ZDV WKH ƓUVW VWHS RQ D long road to tackling this problem. Now the issue is back on the agenda, with campaigners ramping up pressure on government to WDNH WKH QH[W VWHS 79 FKHI -DPLH Oliver co-ordinated a letter from opposition parties, including Labour, the Lib Dems, SNP and the Greens, demanding more action. It called for 13 measures, including restrictions RQ PXOWL EX\ SURPRWLRQV DQG 79 advertising and using the tax system to encourage healthy choices. For small retailers, limits on what
The deli doctor Paul Thomas Technical and regulatory advice from the Guild’s deli helpline Q: Do I have to keep my whole, artisan hard cheeses below 8°C? They are currently on my counter at 15°C or below. A: Soft cheese such as brie may be refrigerated at or below 8°C once it’s fully ripe, to hold it back and SUHYHQW LW IURP VSRLOLQJ 7KH S+ RI
products we can put in different parts of the store, or bans on certain types of promotions, may be most troĆŽEOLQJ 7KHQ DJDLQ QHZ WD[HV like the sugary drinks levy could DOVR PHDQ LQĹ´DWHG SULFHV RQ PRUH of the products we sell, affecting manufacturers and consumers. As always, these principles gain wide public support, but they may not be as popular if they are actually implemented and businesses and consumers have to pick up the bill. 7KH UHFRPPHQGDWLRQV DUH QRW new, but the political manoeuvring is, and it could make a difference. At this time of political division it is rare to secure political consensus on an issue and No. 10 will not want to be on the wrong side of this debate, so the Government will be considering its options. Edward Woodall is head of policy & public affairs at small shops group ACS
edward.woodall@acs.org.uk
these cheeses can rise considerably during ripening, to near-neutral levels, so temperature control can also slow the growth of harmful bacteria such as Listeria. Hard cheeses, however, don’t support the growth of Listeria due to various technological ‘hurdles’ present within the cheese, such as pH, salt in moisture and microbial competition. In fact, in hard cheeses that don’t support the growth of Listeria, these bacteria will die faster at 15°C than at 8°C. So there’s a strong argument for maintaining your current practice! 7KHUH DUH H[FHSWLRQV WKRXJK 9DF SDFNHG FKHHVHV VKRXOG EH stored below 8°C to prevent growth of non-proteolytic Clostridium botulinum. Cut wedges that are not vacuum-packed can also be stored below 8°C to maintain quality by slowing the growth of surface moulds. Dairy and food safety specialist Paul Thomas runs the Guild’s e-helpline for retailers with technical or regulatory queries. It can be accessed through the Guild Members’ Hub at gff.co.uk
Festive feel for World Cheese in Bergen In an echo of the 2016 World Cheese Awards, which were staged alongside WKH %DVTXH &RXQWU\Ĺ?V Ć“UVW LQWHUQDWLRQDO FKHHVH IHVWLYDO LQ 6DQ 6HEDVWLDQ WKH 2018 awards in Norway will themselves be partnered with a new public foodie event. 7KH Ć“UVW 1RUZHJLDQ )RRG 1DWLRQ IHVWLYDO ZLOO UXQ LQ WKH FRXQWU\Ĺ?V VHFRQG city, Bergen, on 2nd-3rd November. It will coincide with judging of the 2018 World Cheese Awards on the 2nd, in the city’s iconic Grieg Hall (pictured above). The festival, including a conference, presentations and tasting tours, will highlight the quiet culinary revolution seen in Norway over recent years. Entries to the awards, organised by the Guild, open on 5th September.
Government urged not to double up on measures to cut waste plastic By Mick Whitworth AS HM TREASURY consults industry on a ‘plastic tax’ to cut down on single-use packaging, Government is being urged to avoid measures that hit the same product twice or create heavy admin costs for smaller businesses. Small shops group ACS, which lobbies on behalf of the Guild and other retail groups, has asked WKH 7UHDVXU\ WR FRQVLGHU KRZ DQ\ new tax would interact with steps already being proposed by other Government departments. 7KHVH LQFOXGH 'HIUDĹ?V SURSRVDOV for a deposit return scheme (DRS), which would see consumers paying a small deposit on plastic drinks bottles that could be redeemed by returning WKH ERWWOH WR WKH VWRUH 7KHUH DUH PDMRU FRQFHUQV DERXW WKH Ć“QDQFLDO and practical burden a DRS would represent for small shops. Defra is also looking at extending the Packaging Note Recovery system, currently applied only to larger SURGXFHUV WR VPDOOHU Ć“UPV ,W LV QRW
clear whether indie stores might then fall into this system, where companies pay a charge to help pay for recovery and recycling of waste packaging from their products. ,Q LWV VXEPLVVLRQ WR WKH 7UHDVXU\ $&6 FKLHI H[HFXWLYH -DPHV /RZPDQ said: “All parts of the supply chain have a role to play, from suppliers to retailers and consumers, when it comes to reducing the impact of single-use plastics, but it’s clear there LV QR RQH VL]H Ć“WV DOO VROXWLRQ “We encourage Government to continue looking at innovative and sustainable ways to reduce single-use plastics, but would caution against any measures that would result in what would effectively be taxing retailers and/or consumers twice on the same products.â€? ACS is also pressing Government to put more resources into recycling. Research last year suggested better labelling of recyclable materials and the ability to put all types in one bin would be more effective than a DRS in changing consumer behaviour. Vol.19 Issue 5 | June 2018
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