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the whole HOG but

Duc k

eggs

and nothing the hog pg 94

alwa ys hun g ry

benedict b

y mia and sara

h

pg 25 IS S UE #3 TA K E

Y O U R

F R E E

C O P Y

Loads more fun and delicious recipes inside – Enjoy it all!


INSIDE #3

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BREAKFAST MUFFINS

DUCK EGGS BENEDICT

Your eggs, bacon and greens all in one tasty muffin

Made all the more indulgent and rich using larger duck eggs.

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WEEKEND BREAKFAST #2 Oats are always an effective way to go in the morning; these are heavenly.

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WEEKEND BREAKFAST #1

CHRISTMAS EYE CANDY

Avocado and crispy Parma ham stuffed mushrooms; warm autumn flavours to fend off the sharp morning air.

Juicy red currants and all sorts of chocolate create this Christmas eye candy

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FRAGRANT CITRUS + WARM SPICE Produce a dessert you'll want to try over and over again

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ALWAYS HUNGRY

INSIDE #3 out the hidden depth in your other ingredients A day in the life of a vine grower

011. THE PERFECT STEAK Three steps to cooking up the perfect steak to accompany last issue’s perfect potatoes

094. LOVE YOUR LEFTOVERS THE WHOLE HOG

014. IN THE KNOW

Served gets to grips with the snout to tail movement to understand how there really is no need to throw away any part of a slaughtered pig

What’s trending right now in the world of food

013. SEASONAL STARS The beetroot takes centre stage this season. While there’s an abundance of vegetables, this purple powerhouse stands out for its distinct earthy sweet taste and vibrant purple hues.

018. LIFTING THE LID ON Adrian Buttigieg, Executive Head Chef talks to Served about comfort food, cooking duck tongue and his passion for fresh ingredients.

021. WAKE + BAKE Get your good start to the day with these moreish egg dishes

031. MASTERING SOUR DOUGH BREAD Served joined Julia Ripard’s sourdough

099. WINE NEWS / ON THE BOTTLE

reads and from weird but wonderful food customs Served has you covered

masterclass, organsied by fitmaltamum.com, to learn how to make this healthy loaf.

065. WHEN ARCHITECTS + FOOD COLLIDE

041: DITCH THE DIET This is not the season to eat lean and keen

Here's what happens when two well-known architects are given a very brief brief and asked to deliver a dish which is festive, works as a standalone dish and includes chillies?

044. GET SET Table laying is all part of the food process and Served lays out some hacks to help you get what you want

075. SIX WAYS WITH SOY

044. TABLE TALK

Seasoning your food with soy sauce will often bring

From tableware to best

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Tis’ the season for bubbles of course and the rich red wines from France. Sommelier Fabien Etienne gives us his top bottles

102. THE LIFE OF A GRAPE vine grower is a silent, laborious and meticulous work of love

113. STAY SWEET Delectable dishes which could easily replace your Christmas pudding this year ..and much more >


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INSIDE #3

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CHOCOLATES + RED-CURRANTS

TABLE TALK: GET SET

Chocolate is used to create a cake and a mousse to provide a platform for the redcurrant sauce

Elements and combinations to use when entertaining at home this season.

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RABBIT RILLETS These rillets can roll as a starter or part of a spread

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FOLK FOOD 'IMBULJUTA'

SEASONAL STARS

Chestnuts and chocolate produce this

A nod to the versatile wallnut; the nut which embodies the spirit of christmas

traditional warm drink

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LOBSTER + BLOODY MARY DRESSING We bow our heads to this marriage of ingredients – by Corithia Palace Chefs

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Winter days are here to stay for a while and while the cold, humid days are enough to make me weep for summer, the glutton in me does look forward to the soul warming soups and hearty stews, spicy curries and of course the smells and bells of Christmas. And if it's starting to feel a lot like Christmas, that's because it is. Even traditionalists must relent now and start decorating that tree. After all, half the pleasure in something is the anticipation and preparation that goes into it. Those who know me well know that I am shamelessly sentimental about Christmas, and a big part of it is about turning to much loved traditions for comfort and nostalgia. An attempt to recreate my childhood memories of a glut of food and barely contained excitement. But while traditions are wonderful and to be cherished, it’s also fun to mix it up a little throwing something off kilter onto an otherwise traditional Christmas table. My mother always served up another main meat alongside the much too large turkey and every year was different. Kangaroo, venison, wild boar, lobster and even ostrich regularly made their way to our table and were subject to much laughter, ridicule and debate. Our chefs and home cooks really pushed the boat out in this issue with some fabulous alternative mains which will wow any table without too much fuss. Maybe you’ll be inspired to serve up a saddle of wild boar or rabbet rillets this year or maybe the feature about snout to tail eating will inspire someone to get adventurous when buying parts of a pig. And I urge you to try your hand at Julia Ripard’s sourdough recipe or bake up a batch of breakfast muffins which you can freeze and fall back on as the season gets busier. So many ideas, so many more choices! Hopefully, though, this issue will help make lighter work of your festive feast decisions. A very merry Christmas to you and yours and to a happy healthy new year

who " people love to EAT

are alwa ys the BES T PEOP LE - Julia Child

"

Editor’s picks Sarah is …. Following Cotto al Dente on Instagram…. Cooking from Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem recipe book Reading Six remarkable women and the food that tells their stories by Laura Shapiro

Editor Sarah Kennard

Photography Styling Sean Mallia

Creative Direction / Head of Design Chris Psaila

Coordination + Advertising Sam Psaila 7788 0300

Contributors: Charlene Bugeja Samantha Farrugia Jeremy Norman Julia Ripard James Staniland Mia Vella Sara Vella Stefy Zammit Yaz DeMicoli

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise. While we endeavour to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances. © 2017

Published by [ V ] Publications. – Publishers of Vamp Magazine, Served Magazine and co-publishers of The Malta Artpaper.

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Find us on Facebook: servedmagazine


INSIDE #3

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ROAST RED PEPPER AND LENTIL SOUP

WHEN ARCHITECTS + FOOD COLLIDE

Roasting the peppers brings out a hidden depth to flavour and colour alike

Two well known architects get technical in their kitchens

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ROAST PIG HEAD Not for the faint hearted but a centerpiece to talk about (or around) if nothing else

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GOJI BERRY, CHIA + WALNUT MUFFINS

WAKE + BAKE

Spiced with cinnamon and bursting with berries these will be hard to say no to

Fast to make, fast to eat and the easiest food to riff off-eggs

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A DAY IN THE LIFE – VINE GROWER The life of a grape vine grower is a silent, laborious and meticulous work of love

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CONTRIBUTORS

{ HOME COOKS }

Steffy Zammit

Sam Farrugia

Julia Ripard

Mia + Sarah Vella

James Staniland

Charlene Bugeja

Among friends Stephanie Zammit is legendary for the lunches, dinners and parties she has thrown and catered for. A self-taught cook for whom cooking and sharing food is central to her life, it made perfect sense for Stefy to start a blog and share her love for delicious food. Have a look at her site, www. honeyandzest.com , a great source of ideas, recipes and musings on food and all that surrounds it.

Samantha Farrugia is a passionate home cook specialising in clean, healthy, honest dishes. Her aim is to make people aware of the healthy food options and to show them tasty and exciting recipes. Through her weekly recipes, follow her on Facebook and Instagram on 'Sam's Bits and Bites' for inspiration. Or use her outside catering and let her cook for you. Look out for her granola bars and energy balls available from certain outlets too.

Julia Ripard is a 23-year-old home-cook, writer and good-food enthusiast. When not conjuring up seasonal recipes, Julia manages her personal food blog under the name Good Food Living on Instagram, co-hosts the bimonthly wine club Table Talks at Philippe Martinet Fine Wines and is soon to be opening CRU, a wine and tapas bar in Valletta.

Sisters Mia and Sarah grew up in a family where the home cooked meal brought them all together. With Sarah a full-time dentist and Mia juggling a job and a Masters, the girls realized an active and healthy lifestyle was the only way forward. With home grown fruit and vegetables, fresh eggs, olive oil and herbs all at their disposal along, it’s inevitable that their focus is fresh and clean eating.

A private chef with a passion for culinary exploration and travel which has taken him on a journey to high-end restaurants working along-side top chefs in Australia, England and Malta, including various private yachts worldwide. James’ inspiration lies in exploring flavours from all four corners of the globe all the while maintaining focus on using well-sourced local produce available at a given place and environment. Currently based in Malta, James organises pop up dinners under the Wandering Kitchen.

Charlene Bugeja is a 33-years old, stay at home mother of two young girls. Although her dishes look and taste incredibly professional, she is totally selftaught. Her passion for cooking and baking came at an early age, and her ethos is to eat according to the seasons and use local ingredients as much as possible. She literally devours cookbooks and doesn’t miss a cooking show when she can find the time.

{ PHOTOGRAPHY }

Once again Sean Mallia can take a bow for the simply beautiful food shots that fill these pages. While food contains all the elements of design that can make a striking image; Colour, texture, pattern, line, shape, and form, it takes a discerning eye such as Sean’s to capture it in such a way, that one is not sure whether to want to eat it or hang it. With a love for all things gastronomical, art, photography and architecture, Sean has elevated the fantastic food prepared by our pros and home cooks to an art form.


Flamant Malta, Pjazza Tigné, The Point, Sliema (+356) 2395 7630 | info@flamant.com.mt | www.flamant.com.mt |

½ Flamant Malta

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CONTRIBUTORS

HACK #1

{ PRO CHEFS }

Perfecting Steak.

Stefan Hogan Executive Chef – Corinthia Palace Stefan Hogan is inspired by ingredients that shout local and in season, and is motivated by delighted customers. He has been cooking professionally since the age of 16 but really in his heart he was already a chef at 9 so a lifetime really. The challenge to deliver an alternative Christmas dish resulted in him creating three superb dishes while his kitchen team member Mark McBride created a festive sweet.

Andre Spiteri Executive Sous Chef Hilton Malta Andrea loves the originality and inventiveness his job requires demands when combining different flavours, colours, textures and tastes. He tends to look at each plate as an individual work of art. The best thing about his job is that he gets to prepare dishes which look as good as they taste while passing on his acquired experience to the junior chefs on the brigade ensuring that his strong skills are handed down. Pastry chef Otis Caruana, pastry chef at Hilton must be given credit for the decadently delicious dessert.

1

ingredient

by Yaz DeMicoli

Ok here’s the reality; there is no one way to cook steak; and it does come down to personal taste, cut of meat and so on. But as always in this section, this is about the fastest, simplest, tastiest method. I will bounce about and mention other options, but this is how we sizzle at home. We cook our steak between rare and medium, more on the rare side.

Adrian Buttigieg Executive Head Chef Le Meridien St Julians Adrian won his first culinary award in 2007 as Malta’s Junior Chef of the Year. He was then selected to join the Malta National Team of Chefs with whom he travelled extensively, participating in a number of international competitions. In November 2016, Adrian led the opening of Le Meridien’s signature restaurant: Taro, which has quickly established itself as a leading fine dining restaurant. Driven and inspired by the freshest ingredients Adrian works hard to inspire himself and his team to continue to produce innovative dishes.

1

Step 1: Choice of grade and cut of meat. We take our meat seriously so we normally go for a lovely marbled cut of rib-eye; this is why corn fed produce is so popular. Marbling makes for a tender and juicier result. The optimal size depends on your preference. We like a well seared closer to rare than medium finish, so we go for around a 6 cm thickness.

Why do we let meat rest after cooking? This allows time (7-10 mins) for the juices to get redistributed into the interior. Cutting into a steak that is straight off the fire is a cardinal sin.

2

Step 2: Prep is key. Straight forward really. Make sure the meat is at room temperature. There’s a school of thought that believes a cold piece of meat makes for a crustier exterior and better internal cooking control. We beg to differ but leave that choice up to you. Pat down your meat with some kitchen roll so it’s drier than before - this makes for a better sear - then scour in your rub. Always best to ‘marinate’ the rub for at least an hour if it’s more complicated, and we’re not even going to get into all the different marinates for meat. We’re keeping it simple today, so our ‘rub’ is a little olive oil, salt and pepper.

3

Step 3: Pan as hot as hell, and we mean it. 3-5 minutes on one side, flip and repeat. Sear the edges and continue grilling until perfect. We go with 4 mins on one side and 4 mins on the other, rest and serve. If you’re awesome and have a thermometer then know that the temperatures are as follows: 49°C–51°C medium rare, 54°C for medium, and 63°C for well done; convert to Fahrenheit if needed. As the meat is in the pan (or on the grill) get a lovely chunk of truffle butter and lay it on, both sides. That’s all you need; salt, pepper, olive oil (ideally truffle infused) and truffle butter. You’re welcome.

Why do we sear? To lock in juices

Please send us your results and feedback!

When is it done?

servedmagazine@gmail.com

(Palm infographic test pg14).


SEASONAL #1

As the old song goes, ‘I’ll be true to you, if you’ll beetroot to me’. I have had a lifelong love affair with this blushing bride. I like her boiled, roasted, pickled and her young leaves are excellent in salads.

I have lived for over forty years by the sea in the New Forest in Hampshire. Along the shoreline, just above the high springtide mark, you will find a line of bright green luxuriant growth each spring; if you look closely you will see that the leaf stems are pinkish purple. The young leaves are tender, if a bit bitter, and the cook-up just like spinach. It is wild sea-beet, the ancestor of

beetroot and probably spinach too. Beetroot can, of course, be eaten pickled as an essential component of an English summer picnic of cold ham, potato salad, buttery lettuce leaves, spring onions, ripe tomatoes, radishes and if you must, a scotch egg.

O1 B EETS

IN PRAISE OF

Nowadays, I make a homemade aioli with crushed raw garlic added to mayonnaise in which to dip sticks of carrot and celery; inspired by the classic dish as served in Le Colombe d’Or in St Paul de Vence. Some people wash it down with a beer but I, being more refined, prefer a chilled glass of chardonnay. Nowadays, you can buy a fresh beetroot juice in a juice bar or juice it yourself at home with a NutriBullet. The best supermarkets sell beetroot crisps, better for you than the greasy potato variety and even more scrumptious. Try making them at home if you have a deep fryer or better still and air-fryer that uses much less oil. I always try and include beetroot with my Sunday roast. Just pop them in the hot fat with the roast potatoes and remember to leave the taproot – its traditional and looks good on the plate. Beetroot takes a bit longer to roast than your spuds but it’s worth the wait. They should be tender yet form and just starting to look a bit wizened on the outside. Young trendy chefs have taken to serving beetroot raw in salads shaved transparently thin with a sharp mandolin. It curls nicely to decorate a salad plate. Last but by no means least we mustn’t forget the Poles and their famous beetroot soup, borsch. Serve it cold with a swirl of crème fresh and a sprig of fresh basil – say no more, perfection. 015

Served suggestions:

Whetheryouroastit,blenditor juice it like the Olympians do, thispurplelendsitsearthy,rich and sweet flavour and vibrant colourbeautifullytoavarietyof bothsweetandsavourydishes. Steam it for salads, blitz it for dips,orpairitwithfennel,citrus and nuts which all work as beautifullyasitsusualpartner, goat’s cheese


# UPDATES

Cu rren t – N ovem ber ‘17

in the know...

11.17

FOOD – UPDATES

Salad on the go / Meat heat / New book / Prosecco up for grabs

THE PROSECCOS OF VILLA SANDI

T

his famous sparkling wine is having yet another moment as more people choose it over champagne for all sorts of occasions. From brunch to lunch to dinners, picnics and joyous celebrations, these sparkling wines from the rich and fertile regions of Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia are fresh, fruity and full of floral flavours. The Villa Sandi estates are found nestled in the most renowned areas of winemaking D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. between Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia and home to the Glera grape, from which prosecco is produced. Dating back to 1622, this magnificent estate produces a wonderful prosecco which undergoes a fermentation process resulting in a bubbly, fruity and bright wine, made for immediate consumption.

Rollin Kitchen... The brains behind Billie D’ rollin kitchen believe salads should taste fantastic, look beautiful, and leave you sated. They stick to a simple concept; four all-time salad favourites and all rocking a leaf, protein, a grain or legume, a dose of veg, two toppings, and a delicious, homemade dressing. There are fresh soups too served with fresh bread, loaded hummus for your four o’clock pick-me-up, freshly made iced tea and lemonade, and a choice of sweets to finish off your meal. Check out www.billie-d.com and www. facebook.com/billiedmalta to find this mobile salad bar.

WHAT A CATCH Fish is a great option for an alternative Christmas feast. Get inspired by the appetizing, easy-to-prepare recipes collated and published into a recipe book by Azzopardi Fisheries. You can collect this free book from Azzopardi Fisheries in St. Pauls Bay during opening hours. The recipes are full of tips and ideas on how to prepare and serve fish dishes that will wow family and friends.

WIN A CASE

MEAT HEAT – GET YOUR MEAT RIGHT

OF VILLA SANDI

Served has a case of this delicious celebratory wine to give away. Simply answer the following question and send your reply to: servedmagazine@ gmail.com

Q:

Where is Villa Sandi wine produced?

What rare feels like

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What medium rare feels like

What medium feels like

What well done feels like


SEASONAL #2

O2 N U TS.

IN PRAISE OF ...

THE WALNUT

Back in the 12th Century stockings filled with walnut, oranges and apples were handed out to the poor on the eve of Christmas. This ancient tradition is why walnuts along with other nuts always evoke winter and Christmas

One of the most popular and versatile nuts around, walnuts are slightly bitter in flavour, and good eaten raw or cooked, in either sweet or savoury dishes. they work beautifully in baking too. When picked young, they're known as wet and their milky white kernels are mainly used for pickling. The more common however is the dried nut, either shelled or unshelled. Try roasting them in butter, rosemary and cumin as the perfect partner to pre–dinner cocktails

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# UPDATES

Cu rren t – N ovem ber ‘17

in the know...

11.17

FOOD – UPDATES

Trending right now / Christmas Do's / Bucket list / Gotta Have It

Christmas starts early at Hilton Malta It’s the most wonderful time of the year so spend it with the perfect host and enjoy an unforgettable Christmas with Hilton. With exclusive hospitality packages, tempting cuisine and sparkling entertainment Hilton Malta is ensuring a magical Christmas experience for all. So, if you’re stuck for inspiration for gifts this season but really want to push the boat out and pamper those in your life, have a look at these bespoke gift vouchers and meals Hilton Malta is promoting throughout December and get into the festive spirit early.

TRENDING RIGHT NOW

TOP HACK ! Inc. on Nantucket Island in Massachusetts earns its reputation by really being at the top of its game. It is sleek, black or white, and understated, with an oversized opening for adding peppercorns that twists closed seamlessly.

Better than all the rest The Unicorn Pepper Mill is good. Really good. It is that rare pepper mill that does what it is supposed to do. It holds a lot of peppercorns without looking like a prop and allows easy and precise grind-size adjustments. In its 30th year of designing. Tom David

http://www.unicornmills. com/Magnum-0/

THE FABULOUS CAPRICE JAZZ NIGHTS

BUCKET LIST SECRETS

F

ROM WORM CAKES IN VIETNAM TO DINING IN A JAIL CELL, THIS WEBSITE HAS BUCKET LIST IDEAS FOR EVERY PALATE, TASTE AND WHIM. HAVE A LOOK AND MAKE YOUR OWN FOR 2018. BUCKETLISTJOURNEY.NET

Every Wednesday, the Caprice Bar & Lounge at the The Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa has teamed up with local company, P.Cutajar & Co, for its weekly Caprice Jazz Nights. Featuring a rotation of six different types of beverages, patrons who attend the Caprice Jazz Nights will also be serenaded by Adrian ir-Russu on the saxophone. Running every week throughout the winter, the Caprice Jazz Nights will feature either Erdinger & Stretta craft beers, Bombay Gin, Bacardi & Grey Goose vodka cocktails, wines, or single-malt whiskies on rotation. For more information about the Caprice Jazz Nights, please visit www.corinthia.com/palace

CHOPPED

Made by hand

Ghagin&Co. is a local pasta producer with a modern take on gourmet food. Daniel Bartolo, the Gozitan chef behind this concept, consistently delivers artisanal handmade pasta using only top quality and fresh ingredients. Offering a vast variety of loose and filled pasta, Ghagin&Co. currently caters for the island’s leading restaurants. Fillings include the usual meat and cheese but look out for beetroot tortellini filled with baby sweet potato mash and bell peppers. Tel: +356 2766 6000 Mob: +356 7930 6888 ghaginco@gmail.com fb /ghaginco

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If you only have space for one cutting board, make it a decentsized one. A big cutting board allows you to prep a whole meal at once without having to throw various chopped ingredients in bowls to make space on the board and reduce clutter in any kitchen. Served loves the OXO Good Grip and Boos Block ones both available on Amazon.


SEASONAL #3

THE HOLY GRAIN – The liquid from canned chickpeas, known as “aquafaba”, makes an effective egg white substitute – Quinoa, amaranth, millet, and sorghum pop like popcorn – The first pregnancy tests on record were in Ancient Egypt. Women would pee on a field of wheat and barley. If the wheat sprouted, it was going to be a girl. If the barley sprouted, it was going to be a boy. If neither sprouted, the woman wasn’t pregnant.

After a century of markets dominated by a few types of wheat and white flour, ancient and heritage wheat varieties having been making a serious comeback. This food trend which shows no signs of fading is actually pretty old. The same whole grains grown by ancient Egyptians, Ethiopians, Aztecs, and Incas are now hitting the 21st century. Over the last decade products, restaurants and bakeries have sprouted everywhere promoting organic and local agriculture and meeting a rising consumer demand for tasty and nutritious foods that support an ethic of sustainability.

#3

“Whole foods like grains release their sugar very, very slowly because of the fiber in them, and they don't give you a sugar rush. They feed your cells as needed, and as a result, you have loads of stable energy that powers you through the day." – Kathy Freston

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INTERVIEW

WH AT O R W H O IN S PI RE D Y OU TO B E C O ME A C H E F ? My main inspiration came from my mother and older brother. My mother always cooked the most memorable and delicious family lunches and dinners, and when she allowed him to, my rother too. My other brother and I were always the happy tasters at the table. WH AT D R IV E S Y O U TO CONTI NUOUS LY C R E AT E N E W R E C IPE S A ND NE W C O M B IN AT IO N S ?

LIFTING THE LID Served sat down with Adrian Buttigieg, head chef at Le Meridien, St Julians, to talk comfort food, duck tongues and his mother’s ‘ghagin fil-forn’.

more of an opinion on what they eat and how they want it served. YOUR MUST HAVE KIT C H E N G A D G E T? Hand-held blender YOUR BEST COOKING T I P ? Simple but effective for everyone: add a pinch of salt when starting a basic fryup (onions and garlic). Not only will it reduce the possibility of burning them, but they’ll become softer too.

Fresh ingredients and my team with no hesitation. I feel lucky to be able to work in a kitchen where I have access to daily fresh ingredients. Both the staples and more uncommon ones. This makes all the difference. I’m also surrounded by a team of professionals always eager to learn new recipes and techniques, and who are hungry to learn more. Having such people around keeps me on my toes and motivates me to research, read, and develop new methods to keep them inspired and creatively satisfied.

A CHIL DHOOD MEAL YO U S TI LL RECREAT E OR ENJOY?

I S Y O U R C O O K IN G I NF LUE NCE D BY THE C O U N T R IE S Y O U H AV E WORK E D I N?

GUILT Y PL EASURE?

Not really. Every chef has his or her own style and mine is quite contemporary. I like classic flavours and modern techniques and I love adding a modern twist to something classical. If I had to pin down one influence however it’s most definitely the timeless French cuisine. Other than a particular country or cuisine, I have been greatly influenced by the work of Chef Ferran Adrià. WH AT ’ S T H E S T R A NGE S T F OOD Y O U ’ V E E AT E N A N D THE S TRA NGE S T F O O D R E Q U E S T Y OU HAV E HA D TO D E L IV E R O N ? Strangest food: Duck tongues! Strangest request: I cannot recall a particular one that has remained in my mind, however, people generally have

My mum’s own ghagin il-forn. In fact recently I included it in one of our events at Taro Restaurant, Revisited Classics Perfect dinner party menu; definitely a stand-up event. A selection of cold and hot canapés including some salmon, duck, asparagus and cheeses. For the hot part some delicoius tarts, beignets and brochettes of beef, prawns and chicken. Sweets: Chocolate and berries.

About the chef In 2007 Adrian won his first culinary award: Junior Chef of the Year. In 2009 he was asked to join the Malta National Team of Chefs participating in various competitions around the world (Dubai, Scotland, Luxembourg, and Germany). His particular favourite was the Culinary World Cup and the Culinary Olympics when he selected as part of the 10 best young chefs in the Mediterranean region, a list compiled by culinary powerhouse San Pellegrino (the creators of the famous list of ‘Top 50 Restaurants in the World).

020

It absolutely has to be anything that contains sugars and fats. The sweeter the better! A FINAL WORD FROM TH E C H E F... The kitchen environment is rough, but it has always to be kept fun. We work long hours. When other people are celebrating we’re working hard in the kitchen. We work in extremely high temperatures in full uniform. It has to be kept fun on a daily basis, otherwise it drives you crazy and you slowly lose your love for the job. Our job is not just punching in, doing your hours and then going home. In reality it’s all about pride, passion, drive and enthusiasm, and a love for what you’re doing. Our job becomes must also be our hobby, otherwise you won’t survive!


UPDATES

Cu rren t – N ovem ber ‘17

in the know...

11.17 SERVED–UPDATES

Staple Boosters / Black food / Good drinks / Plait crates

STAPLE BOOSTERS

B

THE CURATED CRATES FROM PLAIT

y all means, stock up on the latest vitamin and boosters but these staples found in your kitchen will also help keep your immune system fit during the cold months ahead. Peppers; both the red and green variety have twice the amount of vitamins C found in an orange Canned sardines; Packed with antisniffle supplements like omega 3s, and vitamins B and D – so important as we wave off the last of the summer sun. Mushrooms; An excellent source of selenium, which promotes a healthy immune system and boost fertility in both men and women so good news all round. Curly kale; Another Vitamin C champion, this popular green is also an excellent source of vitamin A.

back to black

2017 was all about dreamy hues and pastel colours with froth and fizz aplenty. And while we will continue to enjoy super smoothies and vibrant buddha bowls, 2018 looks ready to take on a much darker look. The black food trend has already started to make waves as images of black ice cream, black lattes and black bread appear more regularly on your feeds. So, what’s made everything so black? Charcoal, apparently. According to a few chefs who have their finger on the food pulse, this trend of using activated charcoal works because it is natural, odourless and very healthy as it removes toxins from the body when taken in moderate measures.

DRINK NO EVIL

Plait is a collection of distinct, beautifully and carefully curated crates that allow you to discover the best of what’s out there, delivered doorto-door for free anywhere in Malta or Gozo. Our Limited-Edition Plaits currently offer the exclusive opportunity to discover the best sommelierselected wine, Belgian craft beer and their collectors’ glasses, artisan tea leaves and local Christmas gourmet delicacies from Malta’s best small batch producers. These Limited-Edition Plaits will be offered in a limited run until Christmas and are packaged in modern, re-usable crates, ready for gifting. Update your Christmas hampers with Plait.

Karma Cola, Gingerella Ginger Ale and Lemony Lemonade are the perfect companions to good food for a growing movement of conscious consumers looking for high quality, great tasting food and drink. These ethical, organic, sustainable and delicious soft drinks are the natural choice for café owners, chefs and restauranteurs who have customers seeking authentic alternatives to mass market products full of e-numbers and artificial crap. The taste is so great simply because they’re made with the real thing – authentic, organic ingredients and no preservatives. Money from every bottle of Karma Cola even goes straight back to the villages in Sierra Leone who grow the cola in the first place and used for community infrastructure, wellbeing and schooling. For further information please visit www.halldistribution.com, email Sales@halldistribution.com or call on 77905988.

BREAKFAST IS BA CK ON THE ME NU … But only for women This is great news for anyone who tends to feel faint exercising before food; you must eat breakfast before you work out according to a study by the University of Surrey. And the best part is that it should include carbs. The study revealed that women who ate a piece of toast or a small bowl of cereal burnt up to 22% more fat than those who didn’t. Interestingly, the study also showed that men who went to the gym to burn fat performed better if they fasted beforehand.

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BREAKFAST

WAKE + BAKE Fast to make, fast to eat and the easiest food to riff off, eggs are a firm favourite especially in this issue. They work well with leftovers and within the tightest timeframes and are often relied on to provide some much-needed protein to sustain our hectic lives. Served offers some ideas on how to turn breakfast eggs into the meal of the day >>

f ir s t w e

eat

then we do e v e r y t h in g

else

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WAKE + BAKE The humble egg takes centre stage as the perfect quick fix. Easy to make just slide onto toasted

F QUICK X

An egg is always an adventure; the next one may be different. “ – Oscar Wilde

Top your eggs with one or more of the following toppings; – Freshly grated parmesan – Grated truffle – Chives and olive oil – Chinese five spice

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Placemats from loft


WAKE + BAKE

Dig'In With Mia & Sarah

Recipe Pg. 34

d u ck eg gs

b en ed ic t

With their busy schedules, sisters Mia and Sara came up with protein charged egg breakfasts to carry them throughout their days. 027


WAKE + BAKE

hash browns wit h

ba ke d eg gs

sa ut ée d mu sh ro om s

truffle paste

and

Ingredients Hash browns: ¼ cup flour 1 sweet potato, medium sized ½ onion 1 large egg 1 tbsp. Coconut oil Salt & pepper Toppings: 3 eggs 200g chopped chestnut mushrooms 1 tsp. truffle paste 1 tbsp. pine nuts 1/2 cup parmesan shavings 1tsp. chili flakes (garnish) 1 tsp. chives (garnish) Method on pg. 34

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BREAKFAST MUFFINS Recipe on pg. 34


MASTERING...

MASTERING...

julia ripard

there is not at is more a thing th

positinvebread tha

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MASTERING... Photos: Tacha Zammit

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Ingredients (for a standard loaf)

(+25ml to add with the salt)

Add your flour to the liquid Mix with a spoon or hands until fully combined, clean the sides of the bowl with your hand to not leave too much dough stuck to the sides. Leave for half an hour.

250g Dove’s Farm Strong White Bread Flour

8.30am: Add the salt with the remaining 50g of water.

50g Leaven (Active sourdough starter ‘fed’ approx. 12 hours before)

300ml Purified water

250g Dove’s Farm Whole meal Flour 10g Salt (I like to add a variety of seeds, including fennel seed - add at the later stretch and fold stages)

Method and Timings 8pm: The night before (Approx. 12 hours): Take a tablespoon of your sourdough starter and feed with 50g strong white bread flour and 50g water (this is your leaven that will be added to form the dough). Leave out at room temperature, covered loosely in clingfilm. 8am: (8 - 12 hours later) Test that the leaven is ready to be used with the ‘float test’. Put a teaspoon of the starter in a cup of water - if it floats, it’s ready to be used. Fill your mixing bowl with 300ml room temperature, purified water. Add 50g of you leaven - keep the rest as your starter for next time, top up with a tablespoon of flour and water and store in a jar in the fridge, covered with clingfilm. Stir the leaven in the water to dissolve

MASTERING SOUR DOUGH BREAD

}

the bowl and drop onto a flourless surface. Sprinkle a small amount of flour onto the top of the dough - with your dough scraper, scoop up and flip the dough upside down, onto the floured side. Gently pull the dough from the top, bottom and sides to stretch it out slightly.

With your hand, mix in to combine the salt fully.

Now fold like a parcel, starting from the top - pull and fold towards you, from the left, right and finally from the bottom, and fold over to complete the ‘parcel’.

Grab the dough and squeeze, repeat for a few minutes. Make your first round of the Stretch and Fold (S&F) method. In the same bowl, grab one side of the dough, pull upwards and fold it over. Turn the bowl slightly and grab the next bit of dough to repeat the same action until you have gone around the circumference of the dough (about 4/5 folds).

Flip the folded dough again and shape with floured hands to form a tight round ball. Leave to rest on the bench for half an hour 11.30am: Flour the top if needs be, flip upside down and repeat the same folding process from the previous stage.

Leave the dough in the bowl covered with a dishcloth or loosely with clingfilm

Drop into your proving basket, folded side facing up, onto a floured dishcloth.

9am: 2nd round of stretch and fold 9.30am: 3rd round of stretch and fold

Fold the sides of the dishcloth over to cover and leave for 3-4 hours.

10am: 4th round of stretch and fold 10.30am: 5th round of stretch and fold Bubbles with be forming in the dough, become gentler with your stretching so as not to deflate the dough too much. 11am: Do the final stretch and fold, lightly flour the edges of the dough to easily remove it from

3pm: Preheat the oven to max. around 250 degrees Celsius with your baking pot in there to heat up too. When the pot is piping hot and the oven has heated up enough, take the pot out, and keep the oven closed to retain the heat, while you transfer the dough into your pot. First lightly flour the pot

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so that the bread doesn’t stick. The folded side of the dough, the side that should be facing up, needs to be facing down in the pot. So, flip the dough over into your pot, as smoothly as possible. Now you need to score the top of the loaf with a blade or very sharp knife. Any style is good, I go for a square shaped cut round the top of the loaf, cutting at roughly a 45-degree angle. This allows the bread to expand during baking. Now cover the pot, place in the oven, and bake for 20 minutes covered, and 20 minutes uncovered. If the bread hasn’t got a nice, dark, golden brown crust - leave it in until it has. Once it’s done, carefully take the bread out of the pot and leave to cool on a cooling rack. If you can resist, it’s best to leave the bread at least for an hour to cool down before cutting into it.


WAKE + BAKE Continued from Pg 27

Serves 3 – Prep time 45 mins

Serves 3 – Prep time 40 mins

BREAKFAST MUFFINS

HASH BROWNS WITH BAKED EGGS, SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS & TRUFFLE PASTE

Home cook: Mia and Sarah Vella

8 medium eggs ¾ cup ricotta 200g shredded halloumi 1 tbsp. fresh and chopped oregano Salt and pepper 2 chorizo sausages, chopped in small cubes 200g fresh spinach leaves 2 sprigs of spring onions 1 tbsp. coconut oil 150g pancetta ¾ cup shredded coconut Butter to grease muffin tray Serves 3 – Prep time 45 mins

DUCK EGGS BENEDICT Home cook: Mia and Sarah Vella

Ingredients for guacamole: 2 ripe avocados ½ onion, finely chopped ½ tsp lemon zest 1 tbsp. lemon juice 1tbsp. olive oil ½ tsp. chilli flakes salt and pepper Ingredients for Hollandaise sauce: 2 duck yolks 1tbsp white wine vinegar ½ block butter, melted Salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 180*C and grease muffin tray with butter. Mix the first 5 ingredients in a bowl until you get a smooth and even texture, separate in half in two separate bowls and set aside.

for the hollandaise: Whisk 2 yolks in a bowl and place in bigger bowl on heat and continue to whisk. Add in white wine vinegar and continue to stir continuously. Slowly add in melted butter and mix until texture is thick. Set aside.

M

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for the guacamole Mash avocados with a fork, leaving texture lumpy. Add all other ingredients and mix together. for the poached eggs Coat 1 side of cling film sheets with olive oil and place all four layered deep in bowl. Crack in 2 eggs, wrap them in the cling film and secure with knot. Repeat the knot four times. Place in simmering water for 8mins. Remove and slit open with knife.

Ingredients for the rest: 8 eggs 4 sheets of cling film (30x30cm) 2 sesame seed buns 4 tsp. pink caviar 200g smoked salmon Dill leaves

for the eggs benedict Slice buns in half and coat each half with guacamole. Add 50g salmon and gently place poached egg and coat with hollandaise. Top with a dollop of caviar and garnish with dill and pepper.

For the spinach and chorizo muffins Heat a frying pan, once hot add the coconut oil and add the spring onions and cook for 2 minutes. Then add the spinach and cook until wilted. Add the chorizo sausage and continue to cook until golden. Divide the mixture evenly into 6 cupcake cups, saving the juices in the pan for later. Pour one of the egg mixtures evenly over the 6 muffin cups, until ¾ full. For the Bacon and Coconut muffins Re-heat pan (with juices), once hot add pancetta until golden. Add the pancetta and the shredded coconut to the second egg mixture and mix well. Equally divide the mixture in the 6 remaining muffin cups. Place the cupcake tray in the oven and cook for 15/20mins, check that muffins are cooked through by inserting a toothpick which should remain dry when removed.

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Ingredients Pg 27 Preheat oven to 180'C. Grate the sweet potato and the onion, mix them well in a sieve then squeeze well to drain liquid. Place in a bowl, form a well in the middle and add the flour, egg, salt and pepper. Heat pan, once hot add 1tbsp coconut oil. Add hash mix into hot oil and cook for 4mins per side, or until golden (use a plate or flat lid to flip over easily). Ensure the layer is not too thick so that it cooks through, if the pan is small divide the mixture in two.

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Remove from heat, crack 3 eggs onto the hash and place pan in the oven, cook for approx. 7-10 mins depending on thickness. Meanwhile heat a teaspoon of butter in a hot pan, add mushrooms and fry for 7mins. Add pine nuts and truffle paste and cook for a further 2mins. Place mushrooms on the baked hash and garnish with chili flakes, chopped chives and parmesan shavings. NOTE the sweet potato can easily be substituted with potato but we felt the sweet potato tasted better


WAKE + BAKE

Serves 4 – Prep time 25 mins

AVOCADO AND CRISPY PARMA HAM STUFFED MUSHROOMS Home cook: Sam Farrugia

4 large mushrooms / Portobello mushrooms 2 ripe avocados Parma ham slices

1 tbsp. lemon juice 2 tbsp. olive oil ½ tsp chili flakes salt and pepper 1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley ½ clove garlic 1 tbsp. chopped basil

Bake Parma ham slices on a lined baking tray till crispy. Remove mushroom stems, brush with olive oil and chopped clove of garlic and season with salt. Bake mushrooms for around 10 minutes then set aside to cool.

To serve: (optional)

Mash avocados and add chopped parsley, basil, olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and chili flakes.

2 tbsp. crumbled feta cheese 1 tbsp. toasted sunflower seeds

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Crumble crispy Parma ham and mix half into the avocado. Scoop avocado mixture into mushrooms and top with the rest of the crispy parma ham, crumbled feta cheese and toasted sunflower seeds. Season to taste.


WAKE + BAKE

Serves 4 – Prep time 40 mins

TOASTED OATS WITH COCONUT CREAM, BERRY CHIA JAM + CARAMELIZED BANANA Home cook: Sam Farrugia

2 tbsp. coconut oil 2 cups oats 1 ½ cups and 2tbsp water ½ cup almond milk Pinch cinnamon ½ bag mixed frozen berries 2 tbsp. honey or maple syrup 2 tbsp. water 1 heaped tbsp. chia seeds Coconut cream 1 tbsp. honey 1 banana 1 tbsp. honey 1 tbsp. coconut oil Toasted flaked almonds (to serve)

Melt coconut oil, add oats and toast stirring occasionally. In a pot mix the toasted oats, milk, water and cinnamon. Stir until all liquid has been absorbed and turn off the heat. To make the Chia jam add berries, honey and water to a pot and simmer over a medium heat. Once berries soften, mash them and turn down the heat. Stir in the chia seeds and remove pot from heat to set.

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To make the coconut cream beat the cream until fluffy then mix in the honey. Heat a pan with 1 tbsp. coconut oil. Once heated, cut the banana length ways and place into pan. As the banana begins to cook, drizzle with honey flip banana over to coat both sides till caramelized. Place oats in a bowl with the coconut cream, chia jam and caramelized banana. Top with toasted flaked almonds.

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WAKE + BAKE

Serves 4 – Prep time 30 mins

GOJI BERRY, CHIA SEED + WALNUT MUFFINS 1 tbsp. cinnamon 1 tbsp. chopped walnuts

Home cook: Sam Farrugia

2 cups oat meal 3 bananas 3 eggs ½ cup desiccated coconut 2 tbsp. chia seeds 1 cup goji berries 1 tsp. vanilla essence 1 tsp. baking powder 2 tbsp. coconut oil

Blend together oatmeal, bananas, eggs, coconut, chia seeds, cinnamon, vanilla essence, baking powder and coconut oil. Gently stir in goji berries and chopped walnuts. Pour the mixture into muffin cases and bake for 20 minutes at 180 degrees. Serve warm or cold.

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3 WAYS TO BE SERVED BY PETROLEA COOKING

SERVING

KEEPING FOOD WARM

Valley Road, Msida T: 21234501 / 21235487

showroom@petroleamalta.com | ٓ_ٔ


ALWAYS HUNGRY

the secretin l if e to su c e ss

is to e e a t w h a t y o u li k

a n d le t tht eit foo uo dt in si d e fi g h - Mark Twain

DITCH THE DIET Replace leaves and lovage with gorgeous cuts of meat and fish which just scream indulgence. After all this is the season to indulge and treat yourselves, your friends and families. >>

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THE WINE CLUB

At the end of one season and on the doorstep of the next, chef James Staniland held his first local pop-up event as ‘The Wandering Kitchen’, last September. Set up ‘al fresco’, the lunch began with a welcome prosecco, while diners gathered. – Julia Ripard

afeastforall

the

senses

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THE WINE CLUB

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ome of us knew or heard of James’ extraordinary talents, leaving the rest wide-eyed in anticipation by the looks on our faces of sheer excitement of the meal to come. Needless to say, the welcoming aroma of divine flavours pouring out of the kitchen was enough to hurry everyone to their seats in preparation. The first course to flow out of the kitchen, hidden to our view, was the amuse-bouche. A freshly blended pomegranate ‘shot’, enhanced with lemon zest, pine nuts, a drizzle of olive oil and a touch of salt. James followed, and while we sat sipping and ‘mmming’ in delight, he started the afternoon off with a short welcome and introduction. James introduced his theme for this and the pop-ups to come, being his representation of the seasonal produce locally available, playing on traditional flavours, recipes and dishes, in his artistic, fine-dining culinary style. With each course we enjoyed a different bottle of wine, selected to complement the flavours in each dish. James highlighted his intrigue in the natural world and what a source of inspiration it is to him. As the courses rolled on, this was quite evident, with the play on texture, and colour that featured in all dishes. The most apparent being our next course; The Edible Garden. This consisted of a beetroot and potato edible ‘soil’, pickled radishes, cucumber and daikon, fennel foams steamed broccoli, a carrot and star anise puree, decorated with edible flowers and micro herbs. We all gazed in amazement at the beauty we were reluctant and yet desper-

ate to dig into. In the most delicate way, James appeared to have sprinkled the plate with a rich soil, topped with an array of twisting greens and gorgeous little flowers. The flavours played perfectly with the visual representations of the dish. The ‘soil’ was deliciously rich and deep in flavour which was lightened by the pickles and puree, and picked up with the freshness of the micro herbs and fennel. As you can imagine we were treated to a feast for all the senses, in this and equally in each course to follow. The following three course were an ode the local, seasonal vegetable of James’ choice. First being the hugely underrated leek, following by Malta’s pride; the potato, and thirdly, the autumnal pumpkin. What was introduced as ‘Canelloni'; was, however, a sous vide leek stuffed with leek, ricotta and lemon zest mousse, red pepper puree, dehydrated leek crisps, olive oil poached leek pieces and finished with a fennel and white tea broth. It can be challenging to make a simple vegetable shine, but for it to shine repeatedly as itself in altered forms, requires true talent. ‘The Potato’ was simple, and straight to the point. Maltese potato slow-cooked and then smoked in pine needles, homemade pine salt, pine charcoal oil, roast onion puree, mustard micro herbs and mint oil. The first mouthful was one of those that demanding closing your eyes, to hone in on all that the aroma, combined with taste, brought up in memory. It was comfort, familiarity and home. Next came the pumpkin, slow-roasted with roasted pump-

kin skin, homemade goats cheese mixed with fresh horseradish, pumpkin seed granola, foraged and home pickled capers followed with a pumpkin and goats cheese whey soup ‘shot’. James’ playful additions of altered forms of the same ingredient in one dish, was evident and much appreciated here. I couldn’t possibly pin a highlight to the meal on a single dish, the whole experience combined was a constant high of exciting flavours, colours and playful representations of nature. Equally as important as providing a delicious meal, was the quantity and combination of ingredients used. At no point was I uncomfortably full, or left unsatisfied with minuscule portions as often happens with lengthy tasting menus. To round up the savoury courses on our menu, we were treated to deliciously fresh local prawn. The prawn was well received on the heavily plant-based menu, served ‘crudo’, lightly cooked in lemon juice and cayenne pepper, black garlic puree, roast Jerusalem artichoke crisp, an array of leaves, and a prawn bisque. Then followed by spinach, ricotta and lemon dumplings, charred onion, onion ash and a caramelised onion broth. The was no stone left unturned so-to-speak, no tastebud left untantalised by such a beautifully and carefully crafted selection of dishes and flavours. Though as if that were not enough, even your sweet tooth was accommodated for. This was quite an instrumental point in the meal, and could have easily been overdone, but in true fashion, James simply provided just the right amount of sweetness, just those few morsels more,

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to top off a truly fantastic meal. First came the deconstructed apple; poached apples, apple gel, cinnamon and clove crumb, apple crisps, yoghurt and honey mini pan cotta. Followed by the carob brownie, with a white chocolate ganache puree, coffee and almond crumb, coffee meringues, with a homemade peach granita. If desserts had two personas, these would be them, and needless to say they were both divine. I couldn’t have thought of a sweeter way to end such a special experience. For that’s what it was - so much more than a meal; a wonderful experience shared with great company, who drank, laughed and dined in complete culinary bliss together.


TABLE TALK

elements / combinations 046


TABLE TALK

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All by camilleriparismode www.camilleriparismode.com


TABLE TALK

The way you present your table to your guests often determines the ambiance of a meal as much as the food and wine. Whatever your style, you’ll want to ensure a visual feast for the eyes. Take inspiration from the bold & beautiful ideas. All by camilleriparismode – www.camilleriparismode.com

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TABLE TALK

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LOCAL RED-BREAM AND AUTUMN VEGETABLE SALAD

A

Recipe pg. 59

T W I S T I S O N

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Recipe pg. 59

SLOW ROASTED LAMB LOIN, CARROTS AND WILD MUSHROOMS

Make it a contemporary Christmas this year and stray from your turkey. Give tradition a twist and shake things up a little this Christmas, with some of these five-star dishes. The pro chefs this season have really pushed the boat out with these alternative festive feasts which still include a protein powerhouse. With a little effort and a lot of wine you’ll wow your guests with your more modern take on things. We’ve included some of their tips to help the process.

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Serves 4 – Prep time 30 mins

PAN-SEARED SCOTTISH SCALLOPS WITH CELERIAC AND GREEN APPLE ‘GARNI’, SAVOURY GRANOLA AND A HAZELNUT EMULSION Executive Sous Chef: Andre Spiteri, Hilton Malta

For the scallops: 10 queen scallops 50g butter 1 tsp. olive oil Salt Lemon juice

For the celeriac and apple puree:

For the savoury granola:

For the hazelnut emulsion:

300g celeriac 300ml milk 100g apple

100g oats 3 bay leaves 100g pumpkin seeds 50gr raisins Maple syrup

100ml hazelnut oil 1 tbsp. hazelnut puree

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For the scallops:

Sear the scallops in a non-stick pan for no more than 15 seconds on each side. Finish off by adding butter and lemon juice.

For the celeriac and apple puree: Boil the vegetables in the milk until tender and blitz to a smooth puree.

For the savoury granola: Mix the dry ingredients and roast for 10 minutes in a hot oven adding the maple syrup at the last minute and mix again. For the hazelnut emulsion:

Served Recommends Antonin Blanc is produced from selected Chardonnay grapes harvested from the Ramla Valley Estate in Gozo. It has crisp citrus and apple notes It is full and round in the mouth, with the subtle nuance of oak adding finesse and complexity. Produced by The Marsovin Winery

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Whisk the two ingredients together well and drizzle over the scallops, adding the puree and the granola around the scallops. We recommend Azzopardi Fisheries for the scallops.


Lobster, along with caviar, is one of the last bastions of luxury, the ultimate Christmas treat, so if you’re up for straying from tradition then consider making these coral-coloured crustaceans the focus at your table this year. How to pick a fresh one; A whole, live lobster will have a dark shell – look for one that smells fresh and is still lively when handled. Test it out by pulling out its tail – it should swiftly retreat into its body. And do keep an eye on those powerful pincers, they can do serious damage. Served Recommends Cassar de Malte, Malta's only Brut created entirely using the 'Methode Traditionnelle.' with a minimum of 12 to 24 months maturing on the yeast lees, deposits of dead yeast or residual yeast, in the bottle. Its bouquet is typically complex with lingering floral and fruity notes. It is invitingly rich, full in taste and complemented by its pleasant natural sparkle. This wine is produced by The Marsovin Winery 054


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Recipe on pg. 60

POACHED LOBSTER WITH BLOODY MARY DRESSING


Serves 6 – Prep time 20 mins + 2 hrs chilling + 2hrs 30 mins cooking

RABBIT RILLETS Pro Chef: Stefan Hogan, Corinthia

500g pork belly Whole rabbit, cut into six 20g thyme leaves (fresh) Few peppercorns 2 pieces star anise Cinnamon stick 2 garlic bulbs, cut in half 1 lemon, peel only Salt & Pepper 2 kg goose fat

Mix the salt, pepper, thyme, lemon peel and garlic. Rub over the rabbit and pork, place in a container and chill for two hours. Do not over cure as this will render the dish salty.

two and a half hours or until the meat falls off the bone. Allow to cool in the fat, once cooled pick off all the meat, trying to keep large pieces intact.

Pre-heat the oven to 135 degrees C, wipe off the salt mixture from the meats and wash under cold running water, pat dry and lay in a deep baking tray. Add the star anise, and cinnamon stick, melt the fat and cover the meats, they need to be completely covered.

Season with salt, pepper and some Dijon mustard, roll and chill so that it can be sliced.

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Cover with baking paper and foil and cook for

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Serve with a fruity chutney, tossed salad leaves and crusty bread. Strain the fat and refrigerate it. Use it the next time you make roast potatoes.


Serves 4 – Prep time 40 mins

SLOW-COOKED VENISON FILLET FLAVOURED WITH SWEET SPICES, WRAPPED IN SPINACH AND LARDO DI COLONATTA. SERVED WITH BEETROOTS, MATURE CHEDDAR CREAM AND SWEET-SOUR RASPBERRY Executive Sous Chef: Andre Spiteri, Hilton Malta

Ingredients for the venison:

for the beetroot: 400g beetroot 20g butter 10g soft herbs for the mature Cheddar: 200g old Amsterdam (grated) 100ml fresh cream 3 eggs for the Sweet-Sour Raspberry:

100ml raspberry vinegar 2 pcs venison fillet 50g sugar Juniper berries, star anise, 150g fresh raspberries thyme, Sumac, lime crushed 100ml chicken stock together 20g butter Oil 60g butter the venison Clean the 8 slices lardo di colonatta M For fillets and sear on a hot pan. 200g washed spinach

Season with salt and finish it off with butter on a hot non-stick pan. Dust with the spice mix. Wrap the fillets in the spinach leaves and Lardo, put in oven for 2 to 3 minutes at 120 degrees. For the beetroots Boil the beetroots for around forty minutes or until tender. Peel them and stir in the butter and herbs on a hot nonstick pan. For the cheese Heat up the cream and stir in the cheese. Fold in the eggs and bake for 30 minutes at 110 degrees C. For the Sweet-Sour raspberries Boil vinegar and sugar, add chicken stock and heat until reduced by half. Add fresh raspberries and butter to finish.

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Slice the venison and plate up with all the elements. Served Recommends Marnisi is a blend representative of the 3 grape varieties on this estate which includes over 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, about 30% Merlot and smaller quantities of Cabernet Franc. Low yields, barrel ageing of the unfiltered wine and judicious blending produce a concentrated, full-bodied wine with excellent ageing potential. This wine is produced by The Marsovin Winery.


Serves 4 – Prep time 30 mins

Serves 4 – Prep time 45 mins

LOCAL RED-BREAM AND AUTUMN VEGETABLE SALAD

SLOW ROASTED LAMB LOIN, CARROTS AND WILD MUSHROOMS

Executive Head Chef: Adrian Buttigieg, Le Meridien

600g local fresh red-bream 100g extra virgin oil 50g cooking oil 15g Maldon salt 40g broccoli rabe 15g white balsamic 1 lemon - juice 4 green cherry tomatoes 4pcs green asparagus Micro cress and edible flowers 30g samphire 25g fresh parsley, basil and mint Pan sear on low heat in some cooking oil the fresh redbream, until the skin is crispy, and the flesh is cooked. Season with a dash of lemon juice, extra virgin and Maldon salt

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Marinate the vegetables (raw) in the white balsamic, 50g of the extra virgin, lemon juice and salt. Blend the fresh herbs with some lemon juice and 40g extra virgin. Plate the fish first, followed by the raw mixed vegetables, herb oil, and garnish with some micro leaves and edible flowers

Executive Head Chef: Adrian Buttigieg, Le Meridien

1kg loin of lamb 100g cooking oil 50g butter 200g orange carrots 100g coloured baby carrots 100g chanterelles 100g shitake mushrooms 100g reduced beef stock Salt Pan-sear the lamb loin in some cooking oil and finish in the oven until desired cooking grading is reached, 175degrees for 12 minutes. Cook the orange carrots in boiling water and 25g butter until mushy, and blend to form a smooth puree. Season to taste.

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Peel and cut the baby carrots into assorted sizes, blanch but keep the crunch and set aside in a warm place. Heat a pan and stir fry the chanterelles and shitake mushrooms adding a knob of butter and cooking until slightly golden brown. Season to taste. In a large main course plate, first place the meat, then garnish the plate with the puree, baby carrots and mushrooms, finishing off with the reduced beef stock.

“One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.” – Virginia Woolf

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Serves 6 – Prep time 20 mins

POACHED LOBSTER WITH BLOODY MARY DRESSING Executive Head Chef: Stefan Hogan

For the lobster poaching stock 3 lobsters (600g each) 1 small onion, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 2 celery stick, chopped ½ fennel bulb, chopped 1 leek, chopped Olive oil Few peppercorns 2 sprigs of thyme Few sprigs dill 2 garlic cloves, crushed For the dressing 125ml tomato juice 5ml Worchester sauce Half a lemon, juiced 2 tsp. rock salt 2ml vodka 2 tsp. horseradish sauce 25ml sunflower seed oil ½ tsp. celery salt 1 egg yolk 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard

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For the lobster Place all the ingredients in a large pot, cover with cold water and bring the water to a rolling boil. If lobsters are alive, place on a chopping board and with a sharp knife run down the head with a swift motion to stun the lobster. Place in the boiling water and cook for 3 minutes, plunge immediately into iced water to stop the cooking process. Allow to cool completely and shell the lobster.For the dressing

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Blend the egg yolk and mustard in a food processor, add the tomato juice, Worchester sauce, salts, vodka and horseradish, switch on low speed and gradually add the oil, taking care not to over blend as it could split. Adjust seasoning and refrigerate until needed. Dress lobster with some of the dressing and plate – in this recipe chef used salted and cured Japanese radish, avocado cream, squid ink aioli, basil gel and celery jelly. We recommend Adams Fish Shop for the lobster.


UPDATES Cu rren t – N ovem ber ‘17

in the know. Copper pots / Food to wear / The fake list / L'Artiglio

Copper for Christmas

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ot only do copper pots and pans look good in the kitchen, but copper is also an excellent conductor of heat allowing it to spread evenly, making it an excellent option for top-of-range cooking. Cooks often use copper pots and pans to prepare delicate sauces and dishes that need to be prepared at strictly controlled temperatures. Minimised scorching risk mean that cooks will often prepare delicate sauces and dishes which need strictly controlled temperatures. Like most food publications, Served loves the Mauviel range. Check out the entire range and get inspired for Christmas gifts at www.mauvielusa.com

WE A R IT DON'T E AT IT

Tadam! is a unique collection of handmade ceramic jewellery desserts. Traditional world-familiar delicacies have been turned into accessories. There are more than 60 different zero-calorie jewellery desserts: a variety of mini doughnuts, chocolate bars, French macaroons, nuts, a pea pod, cauliflower and broccoli florets, and even cheese. These fabulous food themed ornaments were originally featured in the Food Player - bible and manual of food inspired arts around the world. Appearances in Vogue, Elle, The Guardian and other discerning media quickly followed. And now they’re also available in Malta at pickymouse.com.mt a bespoke online concept store for beautiful trinkets and treasures.

THE FAKE LIST PAELLA, SUSHI AND PIZZA ARE LOVED THE WORLD OVER BUT HOW MUCH DO THE VERSIONS WE KNOW HAVE IN COMMON WITH THE ORIGINAL ONE?

SPA NISH TOU RIST TRAP

STICKS OR NOT STICKS

PROPER PIZZA

In the mood for shellfish, then don’t order Paella if you’re in its native region of Valencia where it’s usually made with chicken, duck or even rabbit but absolutely no shellfish. It’s even referred to by locals as ‘tourist paella’.

It turns out that only Westerners eat sushi with chopsticks. To the Japanese their national dish is seen as ‘fingerfood’. And those really in the know, leave the wasabi spicing up to the sushi master.

Chillies,pepperoni and mushrooms have no place in any proper pizza worth its dough according to the guardians of pizza’s true traditional recipe. In Naples, the rightful birthplace of pizza, only tomatoes, garlic, oregano, mozzarella, basil and olive can grace the dough.

CELEBRATING IN THE CITY Look no further than L’Artiglio for all your gastro wishes and whims this Christmas. Conveniently located in Melita Street in Valletta, this fabulously chic restaurant will put the perfect menu together for you whatever you’re after. So, whether you’re organising this year’s secret Santa with friends or you want to treat your team to a slap-up meal get in touch to discuss a tailor-made menu. And it’s open on Christmas eve for lunch too so last-minute shoppers get to refuel and take refuge from the maddening crowds. City revelers celebrating in the evening can also take advantage of their early Christmas breakfast which will be served until 1.00 am. And for those looking for a more subtle celebration to usher in the new year, book in for a long lunch or dinner on New Year’s Eve and experience a foodie moment with the bespoke menus currently being curated. For more info email info@lartiglio.com.mt – for reservations call on 22476601

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Contact us about our complimentary home interior styling services

21, Triq San Pawl Naxxar NXR 4018

(+356) 2099 9966 www.loft.com.mt Opening Hours: Mon. to Fri. 10am – 7pm Saturday 10am – 5pm


Q+A

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f you look more closely there are wonderful parallels and deeply rooted connections between the arts of building and of cooking. To begin with, both evolve from necessity, and both possess a cultural and sensory, aesthetic dimension. As do most arts, these two also bestow a leading role to the materials used and require designing, measuring and quantifying, assembling and composing. Food is creative and approached the right way can also be intellectual. So, what happens when two well-known architects are given a very brief brief and asked to deliver a dish which is festive, works as a stand-alone dish and includes chillies?

WHEN ARCHITECTS + FOOD COLLIDE...

Chris Briffa

Matthew Mercieca

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Q+A

CHRIS BRIFFA Architect since 1999 and food enthusiast from a very young age.

This is a Jamie Oliver recipe. I think he has a knack for simple dishes which somehow stick and become a staple favourite; with a little additions and subtractions over the years. When in season, tuna is a real treat in Malta and is so fresh it can also be eaten raw. The combination with pickled ginger, sesame seeds and green tea is genius! We like to wash it down with a crisp Riesling.

Who taught you to cook? I only went to a proper cooking class once, really, during a long holiday in the north of Thailand. Before that I observed people preparing their favourite dish: the perfect pasta by Matteo from Rome; the porcini risotto by Konrad the friendly neighbour; the modest frittata by Rodolfo in Milan, and so on. My real teacher, tough, is obviously my wife, Hanna; who not only prepares the yummiest treats, but also makes them look like a starred experience. Look at her blog on www.reddish.me to see what I am talking about, and the recipe for this stunning dish! http://reddish. me/blog/asian-tuna-salad?rq=tuna Favourite meal: Probably pasta with rabbit ragú – which we first experienced in San Giminiano: pieces of ‘broken’ pasta tossed into slow cooked rabbit meat in white wine and thyme. It is a family favourite the day after Hanna cooks rabbit stew; leftovers are cleaned from bones and the sauce transformed Three things always found in your fridge: Cheese, wine and leftovers! Must have kitchen gadget: Not sure about that one, perhaps I am a little old school in this department. Gadgets can be helpful but often useless after a while. I think the most important part of the kitchen is its layout; which on one hand needs to be tailor-made for its user and on the other be universally adaptable to change. Kitchen design is not an easy task, and when fitting your new kitchen, it’s a sound investment to get help from a design professional who is ideally also a passionate cook! Chris Briffa is an architect by profession, artist by passion; but he says the line between the two is often blurred. www.chrisbriffa.com

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Q+A

1 A pickled ginger, sesame seeds and green tea Asian tuna salad.

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MATTHEW MERCIECA Architect since 1999 and food enthusiast since 1986

I love chillies! And feasting is second nature to me. I love a good cocktail as a prelude to a feast and I'm a devoted Negroni fan. Not the meek type people are accustomed to in Malta; drowned under by sodas, and tonics, and lemonade and Kinnie but the kind I grew to love during my stint in Milan. Ice and equal parts of gin, Martini Rosso and Campari. I recently discovered white Negroni, made with gin, white martini, and Grand Marnier garnished with grapefruit rind. The best quality meat and a sumptuous salad complete an all-round experience.

Who taught you to cook? My early memories of being in the kitchen are with my mother. She was an avid cake and desert maker. I used to hang around the kitchen and taste the cake mixes before she baked them. She was also an excellent traditional cook. My nanna Rita is another influence. I watched her produce fry ups of meat, eggs and fries (real potatoes only) time and time again as well as many traditional dishes. I spent time in my family’s dolceria too, watching ‘pasti’, baked treats, Easter eggs and figolli, and ice cream, all made from scratch. Then I got to observe the more organic and sustainable side of things at my nanna Jane. There, it was also traditional, but I got to witness the cycle from rabbit in a pen to plate. At the time it was not pretty, but it was educational and an eye opener. So I spent a long time observing, and noting. And then Ingrid, my life partner came into my life. And between her command of chemicals, and my creativity, we seem to transfer our ideas and ingredients to our food. Her skills and command of a wide variety of ingredients in the kitchen unleashed a whole new range of ideas and executions. She is the 99% raw energy behind the 1% inspiration of mine most of the time. When we get to spring, summer, autumn and grilling, then the ball is happily my court. Favourite meal: Very much in the lines of what was concocted and proposed here! Simply put, meat and salad plus cocktails; and wine of course. I enjoy fine dining too but when I am cooking I love the preparation and ritual coupled with fresh and organic ingredients and tend towards a simpler cleaner style of cooking, with improvised spice and herb touches. Three things always found in your fridge: Cooled white wine or prosecco Eggs and Prosciutto cotto Must have kitchen gadget: Barbeque & t(h)ongs. Matthew is founder, director, senior architect and general creative force at Matthew James Mercieca Design Architects. www.mjmda.eu

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Q+A

2 Matthew made: White Negroni, (Martini Bianco, Gin Mare, Gran Marnier, garnished with a pink grapefruit peel). Medium-rare grilled 350g Argentinian rib-eye, crushed pepper corns and Malden salt, garnished with a char-grilled chilli and spring onion and chilli garlic salted butter. A chard and kale salad with grilled haloumi marinated in a sweet chilli jam, cranberries, fresh mint, finely sliced chili, garnished with coriander and roasted almond flakes.

Served Recommends Grand MaĂŽtre Dedicated to the Grand Masters of Malta by special appointment to the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc comes from the Ghajn Rihana Estate. It is a full-bodied red wine with unique character which is aged for at least 12 months in new French oak barriques. This wine is produced by The Marsovin Winery 071


get your grains in.

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Stefy Zammit serves up three grain based vegetable dishes that work well both as starters and as sides

LIGHT BITES


LIGHT BITES

For Paella 400g red rice 2 parsnips 1 onion 1 tsp. paprika 1 tsp. turmeric 1 tsp. cayenne pepper 120ml vegetable stock 150g peas 150g organic chickpeas 3 red peppers 2 large tomatoes Seasoning Oil for cooking Zest of two lemons 3 chili peppers, one lime and some chorizo to decorate A handful of fresh parsley Method Overleaf

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LIGHT BITES

Serves 5 – Prep time 60 mins

VEGGIE PAELLA Home cook: Stefy Zammit

Ingredients on previous page

Serves 4 – Prep time 40 mins

Serves 4 – Prep time 40 mins

FREEKEH WITH ROAST PUMPKIN AND TURNIP

BARLEY WITH A MIDDLE EASTERN TWIST

Home cook: Stefy Zammit

Home cook: Stefy Zammit

250g freekeh grain 800g pumpkin peeled and chopped 300g turnip Coconut oil Seasoning 3 cloves garlic 1 tbsp. honey Juice from two oranges 200g beetroots 1 tbsp. mint sauce A handful of fresh basil Rosemary sprigs

1 onion 1 tsp oregano 1 tbsp. ground cumin 80g pine nuts 120g green lentils 1 tbsp. honey 190g organic sun- dried pesto 250g pearl barley 100g raisins 80g fresh kale Coconut oil

Cook the freekeh according to the instructions on the packet. Set aside.

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Start by preparing vegetables that need to be roasted. Peel the M parsnips and slice them lengthwise, place them on a baking dish add a dash of oil, set aside, wash the peppers, slice them and place on another dish, add some oil and roast both vegetables for around 20 minutes.

Place the peeled and chopped pumpkin and turnip on a roasting dish, pour some coconut oil over the veg, add the peeled garlic cloves, the honey and rosemary and some seasoning and roast until veg is cooked.

Wash the red rice and cook according to instructions on packet. I removed the rice when it was quite al dente as it will be added to the veg and stock. Cook the chickpeas according to the instructions on packet and set aside. Slice the tomatoes and set aside. Get a nice large pan, peel your onion and add some oil and cook, add the spices and toss the onion until cooked. Add the rice, the stock and the peas and let the peas cook, keep mixing the rice until peas are cooked but not soft.

Place the cooked beetroots, basil and mint sauce in a blender and blend until pureed.

Add the vegetables, chickpeas and tomatoes, season and keep mixing. Squeeze the lemon juice over the rice and season.

Add the orange juice to the vegetables, mix and add the freekeh. Layer some freekeh and veg and add the beetroot puree, add more freekeh and some more beetroot. You can also mix all ingredients together if you prefer.

Slice the peppers and grill to add as a garnish. Remember to wash your hands after as the chili remains on your finger tips and it burns. Slice the lime and add to the dish too and sprinkle the fresh parsley. Add some chorizo and sprinkle some more paprika.

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Start by cooking the barley as per instructions on packet, strain and set aside.

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Chop up the kale, place it on a baking dish, add some olive oil and rock salt and roast for around 15 minutes at 160C. Remove and set aside. Cook the lentils in a pot of hot water until cooked. Strain and set aside. Peel and chop onion, add to the pan with some coconut oil and cook the onion. Sprinkle the oregano and cumin and mix together. Add the pine nuts and the raisins and keep mixing on a low heat. Finally add the organic sun-dried pesto and give the ingredients one last stir. Add lentils and barley and mix all together. Crumble the kale over the barley and serve.


COOK BOOKS

Bloody Good Books 1

What She Ate Six remarkable women and the food that tells their stories by Laura Shapiro Most biographers pay little attention to people’s attitudes toward food, but Laura Shapiro does just that with this entertaining group portrait of six famous women. This lively and unpredictable array of women have a powerful relationship with food in common with one another (and us). From Dorothy Wordsworth, whose food story reveals the life she shared with her famous poet brother, Rosa Lewis, the Edwardian-era Cockney caterer who cooked her way up the social ladder. Eleanor Roosevelt, First Lady, protector of the worst cook in White House history; Eva Braun, Hitler’s mistress, who challenges our warm associations of food, family, and table to Barbara Pym’s witty books about postwar British cuisine and Helen Gurley Brown, Cosmopolitan editor, whose commitment to “having it all” meant having almost nothing on the plate except a supersized portion of diet gelatin.

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Blood, Bones, and Butter:

The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton

Before Gabrielle Hamilton opened her acclaimed New York restaurant Prune, she spent twenty hard-living years trying to find purpose and meaning in her life. Blood, Bones & Butter follows an unconventional journey through the many kitchens Hamilton has inhabited through the years: the rural kitchen of her childhood, where her adored mother stood over the six-burner with an oily wooden spoon in hand; the kitchens of France, Greece, and Turkey, where she was often fed by complete strangers learning the essence of hospitality and Hamilton’s own kitchen at Prune, with its many unexpected challenges. By turns epic and intimate, Gabrielle Hamilton’s story is told with uncommon honesty, grit, humor, and passion.

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Nigella Christmas: Easyto-Follow Recipes and Reassuring Advice by Nigella Lawson

Cocktail Cookbook by Oskar Kinberg

Gennaro's Italian Bakery by Gennaro Contaldo

Order this collection of 75 cocktail recipes in time for the festive season. Straight from Oskar Kinberg, head of Oskar's Bar, located in the basement of top Brit chef Ollie Dabbous’ eponymous restaurant, this comes into its own during the festive period, especially if you’re having friends round. Blurring the boundaries between food and drink, Kinberg’s creations include some unexpected ingredients - pea shoots, aloe vera, or olive oil to name three. From Peas, Love and Understanding to The Grape Gatsby, drinks have witty names with some festive recipes, such as pine syrup-based cocktails.

In this collection of recipes, Italian restaurateur and TV chef Gennaro Contaldo revisits his memories of working at his Uncle Alfonso’s local bakery as a young boy. From quick mini panettone to mostaccioli Christmas biscuits for sweet treats, the step-by-step recipes are easy to follow . And for post-December ideas, there are some great vegetarian recipes, as well as gluten-free sweet treats and pizza dough, alongside more traditional ones like onion and anchovy focaccia and buondi (Italian croissants).

This trusty tome from domestic goddess Nigella has remained successful for many reasons: the witty writing, the interesting introduction explaining the history behind Christmas, the helpful advice, and of course, the food. There's a whole array of inventive recipes such as Christmas cornflake wreaths, and more traditional ones like bread sauce and glazed ham. Look out for the edible presents chapter, which features Christmas-spiced salt and pomegranate vodka. There's also a suggested itinerary for food preparation on Christmas Day, as well as dinner party menus.

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"A cook book is only as good as its worst recipe" – Julia Child

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6 WAY SOY

‘Umami’ enhances flavour adding a perfect balance and complexity to food. This ancient Chinese concoction comes in various tastes and flavours but the three most common are light, dark and thick soy sauce. Light soy sauce is satisfyingly salty and with a thin, light red brown colour and opaque look. The Chinese usually use light soy sauce for dips, marinating ingredients, dressings and stirfry food. Dark soy sauce is dark due to a longer aging process. The texture is thicker and it tastes less salty. Think of using dark soy sauce to “colour” your dish. The Chinese and Taiwanese tend to add it to stew style dishes, like redbraised pork. The dark soy sauce enrichens the dish with a caramel colour and sweetness.

six ways with soy

1) Baste and roast Use soy sauce as a baste for ribs or a beef roast to add a richer taste and deep colour. Brush onto a chicken before and during roasting to add flavour, crispy skin and the best browning.

Ok we couldn’t stop at six so here are another six Not soy nuts Try this for a quick tasty snack. Toss unsalted cashew nuts with soy sauce and chilli powder and roast until golden. Pizza perfection Apparently, soy sauce complements the yeasty flavour of dough. Brush it onto rolled pizza dough or bought pizza or focaccia base before adding toppings and baking. Sauce for the brownies Add 2 tsp soy sauce to a chocolate brownie mixture before baking to intensify the flavours. This is unbelievably true. Grill till golden Pineapple and savoury flavours enjoy a great marriage. Drizzle pineapple slices with a mixture of soy sauce and honey and pop under the grill until golden and just warm.

Thick soy sauce is the thickest in texture, with a sweet taste and great for stir fry food, braised dishes and even thicker stew like curries. Oyster sauce is a great as substitute if you can’t find the real deal. Here are Served’s six ways with Soy Sauce. But don’t stop here. There are so many ideas out there some worth a try. So, start with these and then root around online for more inspiration.

6) Gravy giveaway Add instant rich flavour to your gravy, with a good glug of soy sauce. Simply add 1/4 tsp soy sauce for every 1/4 cup of water.

2) Take stock Use soy sauce in stock instead of salt – it’s a great way to createmore depth of flavour in soups, stews and casseroles. 3) Pimp your pumpkin Glaze wedges of pumpkin with a mixture of soy sauce and sweet chilli sauce. Bake until golden. Serve as an original side or on a salad bed.

4) Saucy white stuff Add a splash of soy sauce when making a béchamel. That small amount will lift the nuttiness and creaminess of this classic white sauce. 5) Sticky saucy soy Make marmalade with January oranges and mix it with soy sauce and brush the mixture over chicken or lamb. Roast, basting with the mixture, until cooked through.

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Poach January blues away For a clean healthy meal after the Christmas debauchery, poach a chicken breast in a mixture of soy sauce and water using 1 cup soy sauce for every litre of water. Add ginger, kaffir lime and lemongrass and poach away. Sweet sweet Soy Enhance the sweet flavour of baked cakes and muffins by adding 2-3 tsp soy sauce to the mixture.


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Si Re des cip fo e p r th g. e s 78 ad ild

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HEARTY + HOT

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HEARTY + HOT

Come out of the cold and step into the warmth exuding from the hearty dishes in the following pages. The recipes are all about comfort and heat. They’re meant to be enjoyed in the warmth of your own home and out of the chilly winter weather. Perfect to share with family and friends and where second helpings are a must. So, settle in, relax and stave off the winter with these mouthwatering meals

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HEARTY + HOT

Roast Saddle of wild boar... Serves 8-10 Prep time 1hr 20 mins Roast Saddle of wild boar sauce Pro Chef Stefan Hogan

Ingredients Saddle of wild boar (3.5/4.5 kg) 10 juniper berries 2 heads garlic, split in half 150 g lardo di colonnata (thinly sliced) 6 shallots, chopped 2 carrots, chopped 2 celery sticks, chopped 2 tsp. paprika 30 ml oil Salt Cracked black pepper

For the sauce

Return the tray to the flame and add the shallots, carrots and celery and cook down. The veg will act as a resting bed for the saddle and will later become part of the sauce. Return the saddle to the roasting tray add the garlic and the juniper berries together with the soaking liquid.

1.5 ltrs chicken stock 2 shallots, finely chopped 10ml oil 150 ml port 150 ml Madeira Sprig of thyme 50g dark chocolate (75%) Butter to finish Soak the juniper berries in warm water for five minutes. Trim the saddle top from any excess fat, season with paprika, salt and pepper. In a roasting tray heat the oil and sear the meat to get a nice deep golden-brown caramelisation, remove from the tray and allow to cool slightly. Layer the top with the lardo to cover the loins; the fat will render during the roasting to baste and moisten the meat.

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Place in a pre-heated oven at 185 degrees for forty-five minutes to one hour, basting frequently to keep the meat moist. Probe the meat to ensure that the core reaches 52 degrees C., remove from the oven and cover, allowing to rest for fifteen minutes. As it rests the core will heat up by a couple of degrees.

For the sauce Return the tray to the stove and add the chicken stock, scraping the pan as you bring it to a boil. Strain through

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a fine sieve to remove all the bits. In a clean pot, heat the oil and cook down the shallots without colouring, season with salt and pepper. Add the port and Madeira and reduce to a syrup consistency, pour in the hot stock and add the thyme. Simmer over a low flame to get the desired consistency, skimming the surface as impurities gather, to ensure a clear and glossy sauce. When the sauce has thickened, strain and whisk in the cold butter, do not boil. In this recipe chef cooked whole parsnips and cauliflower roasted in the oven with spices, butter and olive oil to accompany the wild boar.


Roast Saddle of wild boar when plated

HEARTY + HOT

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HEARTY + HOT

Serves 4 – Prep time 40 mins

ROAST RED PEPPER + LENTIL SOUP Home cook: Sam Farrugia

1 tbsp. olive oil 1 small red onion diced salt and pepper to taste 1 tsp. curry powder 1 tsp. cumin powder 1 and ½ cups vegetable stock ½ cup rinsed red lentils 3 red peppers 1 can coconut milk 1 tsp. honey Greek yoghurt (for topping) Chopped coriander (for topping) Chilli flakes (for topping) Roast peppers in oven till they start to blacken and place in a plastic bag to make it easier to peel. After 5 minutes, peel the skin and leave aside.

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In a pot, add olive oil and sauté onion till soft and add curry powder and cumin. Pour in vegetable stock, red lentils, peppers and coconut milk. Bring to a boil then turn down the heat and simmer for 20 minutes until lentils are soft. Stir in the honey and season with salt and pepper. Blend soup till completely smooth and top with a dollop of Greek yoghurt, chopped coriander and chilli flakes.

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Prep time 2hrs 45 mins

Home cook: Julia Ripard

1 piece of osso bucco Olive oil 4 garlic cloves,

1 sheet of kombu seaweed A few dried wild mushrooms 2 bay leaves

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Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius.

squashed, skin on

2 onions 2 carrots 2 celery 1 potato 1 cup of cider vinegar 1 tbsp. white miso paste 1 tbsp. tomato paste

Drizzle the meat with olive oil and roast in an ovenproof pan with the bone in and a few squashed cloves of garlic, for 12 minutes, turning halfway. In the meantime, roughly chop your vegetables and start sweating the onions with a

tablespoon of olive oil, in a heavy based, ovenproof stock pot. Add the carrots and celery and continue to cook until they get some colour. Then add the potato, with the white miso and tomato paste. Add the roasted beef to the pot and cover with a litre and a half of purified water and the vinegar. With scissors, snip the kombu and mushroom, add the bay leaf and bring to a boil.

Reduce to a simmer and cook for 1hr on the hob. Add another half a litre of water to the pot, turn the oven down to 150 degrees transfer the stock pot to the oven, and continue to cook for another 1hr30 mins. Lower the oven temperature to 90degrees and leave to cook overnight. Let the stock cool and skim some of the fat off the surface. Strain and keep the stock in the fridge or for longer in the freezer.


HEARTY + HOT

ancient proverb:

GOOD BROTH CAN WAKE THE DEAD. Bone broths is a nostalgic nutrient rich addition to anyone’s kitchen and wonderfully easy and inexpensive to make at home. The longer you cook this nourishing broth, the more savoury and concentrated it will become. Roasting the bones and vegetables beforehand will add even more depth and ‘umami; to any dish you add this stock to.

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HEARTY + HOT

Prep time 2hrs 45 mins

PORCINI AND PECORINO RISOTTO WITH BONE BROTH Home cook: Julia Ripard

250g arborio rice 400ml bone broth (see previous recipe) 1 small marrow 1 carrot 1 white onion 1 stick of celery Small handful of dried porcini mushroom, soaked in warm water 80g pecorino pepato, grated 1 bay leaf Pepper Olive oil Chop up the onion finely and cook in some olive oil until golden. Add the celery, carrot and marrow and cook for another few minutes. Put the stock on the heat to keep warm while you make the risotto, and keep a ladle handy. Add the rice and a splash of white wine or brandy. Stir continuously until the liquid has evaporated and start adding the stock one ladle at a time, waiting until the liquid has almost been fully absorbed before ladling more stock into the rice pot.

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Add your bay leaf while you cook. Continue until the rice is cooked to your liking, adding the porcini, and the liquid they soaked in, for the last 5 minutes of cooking. Once the rice is done, add half the grated cheese with a big lug of olive oil, some ground black pepper, and cover the pot with the heat off for a minute or two more. Serve with a sprinkle of grated pecorino and another drizzle of olive oil.

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HEARTY + HOT

Risotto is one of those dishes which can easily be quick, simple and delicious; one of the key components is excellent stock preferably homemade and kept on a rolling boil when adding to risotto.

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HEARTY + HOT

Serves 2 – Prep time 15 mins + 2 hrs roasting

ROASTED BEETROOT AND RUCOLA SALAD WITH MAPLETOASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS Home cook: Julia Ripard

6 beetroots Whole head of garlic Fresh marjoram 1/2 cup of balsamic vinegar Drizzle of olive oil Salt and pepper 2 handfuls of rucola Juice of 1 lemon 50g pumpkin seeds 1 tbsp. maple syrup

Preheat your oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Scrub the beetroot with a vegetable brush, cut off and discard the ends, and quarter them. Line a deep oven dish wish plenty of foil, chuck in the beetroot quarters, and all other ingredients. Seal the foil tightly to roast the beetroots ‘in cartoccio’.

Wash your rucola and dress with a drizzle of olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

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Heat up a small frying pan and add the maple syrup. Add the pumpkin seeds and toast for a few minutes until they start to pop. To serve, lay the rucola out onto your serving dish, top with the roasted beetroots and peeled, roasted garlic cloves, and top with the pumpkin seeds.

Roast in the oven for up to two hours, taking out after one, to stir the beetroot around and add more balsamic if it looks dry. Seal tightly again and continue roasting until the beetroots have started to caramelise in the vinegar.

Serves 4 – Prep time 15 mins

ROASTED BEETROOT DIP Home cook: Julia Ripard

4 roasted beetroots (method in previous recipe) 4 tbsp. Greek yoghurt 2 cloves of roasted garlic (method in previous recipe) Juice of half a lemon Salt Pepper Olive oil Blend all ingredients together and serve with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

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HEARTY + HOT

Recipe pg. 93

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Homeware from LOFT

HEARTY + HOT

Serves 6-8 – Prep time 60 mins

GREEN CHILLI CON CARNE Home cook: Charlene Bugeja

1kg minced pork 1 tbsp. cumin seeds 1 tsp. dried thyme 2 onions, diced 4 garlic cloves, finely grated 2 green peppers, cored, deseeded and diced 8 green chillies, chopped (seeds and all) 6 ripe tomatoes 150ml water 1/2 bunch of spring onions, trimmed and chopped 2 tsp. salt, or to taste I tsp. cracked black pepper A bunch of mint, stalks removed, leaves shredded Finely grated zest and juice of 2 unwaxed limes To serve: Greek yoghurt Tortillas a large, non-stick frying M Heat pan over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the minced pork,

cumin seeds and thyme and dry-fry for 10-15 minutes, breaking up the meat and stirring frequently, until it’s dry, browned and crispy. Transfer the browned spicy meat to a bowl. Drain off any excess fat, keeping a little in the pan to cook the vegetables. Return the pan to a medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring from time to time, until softened. Stir in the green peppers and chillies and cook for a further few minutes, then return the browned meat to the pan. Give everything a good stir and cook for another 5 minutes. Meanwhile, deseed and roughly chop the tomatoes. Pour the water into the pan, add the tomatoes and bring to the boil. Turn the heat to its lowest setting and let the chilli bubble away, uncovered, for around 15 - 25 minutes, until a lot of the liquid has evaporated, and a think sauce remains. Stir in the spring onions, salt and pepper. Finally, stir through the mint, and the lime zest and juice and allow to bubble for a couple of minutes longer. Take off the heat and leave to stand for 10 minutes to let the flavours develop before serving.

Serves 6-8 – Prep 60 mins + overnight chill

PORK AND FETA BURGER WITH CUCUMBER & OLIVE SALSA Home cook: Charlene Bugeja

800g minced belly pork 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 5 green chillies, finely chopped 1/2 tsp. cracked black pepper 20 mint leaves, finely chopped 40g dried breadcrumbs 2 shallots, finely diced 70g green olives, pitted and chopped 1/2 tsp. salt 150g feta cheese, crumbled Olive oil, for frying For the salsa: 1 cucumber 4 spring onions, trimmed 1/2 bunch of dill, stalks removed, leaves finely chopped 3 tbsp. olive oil 2 tbsp. puréed green olives 1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped Grated zest and juice of 1 small unwaxed lemon To serve: Burger or brioche buns Slices of cheese (optional) Tomato ketchup To make the burgers, put all the ingredients, except the oil, in a large bowl and mix thoroughly until well combined.

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Work together with your hands until the mixture forms a firm ball. Divide into 6 equal portions, shape into patties and place on a tray. Chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or overnight if it’s more convenient, to allow time for the flavours to develop. Prepare the salsa about 20 minutes before you intend to serve the burgers. Peel the cucumber, halve lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Finely dice the cucumber flesh and place in a bowl. Thinly slice the spring onions and add to the cucumber along with all the other the ingredients. Toss to combine and set aside to allow the flavours to mingle. When you’re ready to cook the burgers, brush them with olive oil. Heat up your grill, barbecue or frying pan. You don’t want to cook them on too fierce a heat, so turn the grill or pan down to medium, or cook the burgers towards the cooler edges of the barbecue. Gently fry the burgers for 4-5 minutes on one side then flip them over and cook for a further 2 minutes or until cooked right through. Remove the burgers from the heat and leave to rest on a warmed plate for a couple of minutes. Serve the burgers with the salsa sandwiched in buns, with cheese and/or tomato ketchup if you like.


HEARTY + HOT

Serves 4 – Prep time 25 mins

CHEDDAR + ALE SOUP Home cook: Charlene Bugeja

75g butter 1 large onion diced 1 large potato, peeled and diced 70g plain flour 500ml chicken stock 500m1 brown ale (your choice, but the stronger the better)

100ml double cream 350g strong Cheddar, grated Salt and freshly ground Black pepper

Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and potato and cook gently, stirring from time to time, until softened (but don’t let them take on any colour), around 10 - 15 minutes.

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Sprinkle the flour evenly over the vegetables in the pan and cook, stirring, for 1—2 minutes, then stir in the chicken stock. Turn up the heat and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook gently for about 10 minutes until the soup has thickened.

Pour in the ale and heat gently for a further few minutes.

and cider vinegar in a small bowl until emulsified.

Remove from the heat, let cool slightly and then transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor. Add the cream and whiz until smooth.

Warm the soup gently over a low heat and stir in the grated Cheddar, allowing it to melt. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Pass the soup through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan and season with pepper and a little salt — do not add too much at this stage as the cheese will introduce extra saltiness later.

Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and drizzle a little dressing on top of each one. Sprinkle on the diced apple and chives and serve immediately.

To make the dressing, whisk together the olive oil, malt extract

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Serves 4 – Prep time 40 mins

VEGETABLE KORMA WITH FRIED CAULIFLOWER ‘RICE’ Home cook: Julia Ripard

Ingredients for the Korma paste: 2 Cloves of garlic 1 thumb-sized piece of peeled ginger 1 red chili 1 tsp of garam masala 1 tsp turmeric powder 1/2 tsp salt 2 tbsp. coconut oil 3 tbsp. desiccated coconut 2 tbsp. ground almond Small bunch of fresh coriander 2 tsp cumin seeds 8 cardamom seeds, shelled 1 tbsp. tomato sauce or concentrate

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Toast the cumin and peeled cardamom seeds in a pan for a few minutes. Grind in a pestle and mortar with the salt. Add to a mixer with the rest of the ingredients, and blend to a paste. Fry up the onion in some coconut oil, in a deep pan until browned. Add the curry paste and cook for a few more minutes. Slice the carrot thinly at an angle an add to the pan. Quarter the sweet and normal potato, and halve the beans at an angle. Chop up the aubergine into rough cubes. Add the remaining vegetables to the pan, stir to mix into the sauce, and pour in the coconut cream. Bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer for a few minutes, and turn off the heat. Serve topped with some toasted almond slices.

Ingredients for the curry: 1 sweet potato, parboiled 1 potato, parboiled 1 aubergine, pre-roasted 1 carrot, cleaned and ends cut off 1 onion, sliced 1 handful of green beans, ends cut off, blanched 1 small carton of coconut cream Sliced almonds, toasted Ingredients for the Cauliflower ‘Rice’: 1 head of cauliflower 2 tbsp. soy sauce 1 tbsp. sesame oil 1 tsp. fish sauce 1 pomegranate’s seeds 1 bunch of coriander, roughly chopped 1 spring onion, sliced

For the curry:

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For the Cauliflower ‘Rice’:

Pulse the cauliflower to rice-sized grains in a mixer. Add to a dry pan and cook on a medium heat. This removes the water from the cauliflower, so important not to add any liquid at this stage. This process takes around 10-15 minutes, or until the cauliflower starts to burn. Keep a spoon handy to stir the cauliflower around and avoid burning the bottom. Once the cauliflower has dried out and turned a golden brown colour, season add the remaining ingredients except the spring onion and pomegranate. Cook for a few minutes more, and turn off the heat. Mix in the pomegranate and spring onion before serving.

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Mulled Wine Peel & juice of 2 oranges Peel of 1 lemon Peel of 1 lime 1 cinnamon stick 6 whole cloves 3 bay leaves 1 whole nutmeg 1 whole vanilla pod, halved 2 star anise 1 cup caster sugar 2 red wine (preferably Chianti) Peel of oranges Peel of lemon Peel of lime Cinnamon Stick Cloves Bay leaves 10 gratings of nutmeg Vanilla pod halved lengthwise Star anise Castor sugar Mix all the ingredients together well, applying pressure with the back of a spoon or rubbing the ingredients with your hands, to release all the flavours. This can also be done in a pestle and mortar.

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Transfer the sugar mixture to a saucepan and put in the freshly squeezed orange juice. Place over low heat and pour in just enough red wine to cover the sugar mixture. Let this simmer slowly, stirring often, until the sugar has completely dissolved into the red wine. Once the sugar has dissolved put the saucepan on high heat and bring to the boil, keep on a rolling boil for about 4 to 5 minutes, or until you’ve got a thick syrup. Making sure to not let it over boil as it will easily burn once it has turned into a syrup. When your syrup is ready turn the heat down to low and add the rest of your wine. Cover the sauce pan and leave it simmering for 30 minutes. Before serving allow your mulled wine to cool slightly. If you need to re-heat it, do so gently and with the lid on, as to not burn off the alcohol. Note: If you would like to prepare your mulled wine base beforehand, you can do so by bringing your ingredients in step 3 to the boil, and cooking for no longer than 5 minutes, before it has become a syrup. At this stage you can cool the mixture and store it at room temperature for up to 5 days, bringing it back to the boil and continuing the process once ready to complete.

L’Artiglio Chicken Liver Pate 300 g butter; cubed & softened Olive oil 2 shallots; peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic; peeled and finely chopped 400g fresh chicken livers 2 sprigs of fresh thyme Handful of fresh sage 100ml brandy 100ml good quality red wine Salt & freshly ground pepper To serve: Fresh French baguette or brioche loaf & fruit compote Put 150g of the butter in a saucepan over very low heat until it has separated, removing the sauce pan from heat for a minute or two if it’s about to start to boil. Once separated, leave to cool slightly and gently use a ladle to skim off the transparent clarified butter on the top. Reserve the clarified butter and discard the milk solids that remain.

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Heat a little olive oil in a frying pan. Gently fry the shallots, garlic and thyme for 10 minutes, until soft and tender, then remove from the pan and set aside. Return the frying pan to high heat, add a little olive oil and add the livers along with a couple of sage leaves. Cook the livers for 2

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minutes on each side, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go. Cook the livers until lightly coloured but not cooked through and still very tender to the touch. Be sure not to overcook them as this will make the texture of the pate very grainy. Quickly pour in the brandy and flambé. To do so you can use a blow torch or if you are using a gas hob, it will quickly light up by gently jerking the pan, always being very careful of your surroundings. Simmer until the flames have extinguished and the alcohol is burnt off.

bowl, gently flatten the surface and refrigerate for 30 minutes to set slightly. Place the remaining sage leaves on the top of your pate and gently spoon over the clarified butter. Return to the fridge and leave to set properly for 1 hour. It can be served immediately once set, or if the butter seal isn’t disturbed it can be left refrigerated for as long as two weeks. To serve: Warm sliced baguette or toasted brioche slices and fruit compote.

Remove the livers, and set aside. Return the pan to high heat and de-glaze with a little red wine, using a spatula to scrap off all the lovely flavours in the pan. Leave the wine to reduce for a couple of minutes. In a food processor place the shallot mixture, the livers and the reduced red wine. Blitz until you have a smooth purée. Whilst still blitzing on low speed, add the rest of the butter piece by piece. Once you’ve added all your butter, the mixture should be very smoothed and glossy. If not add a little more butter and blitz further. Press your mixture through a drum sieve using a spatula (if you do not have a drum sieve you can also use a normal metal sieve) to ensure it is smooth and no pieces remain. Place your mixture into your serving

64, Melita Street, Valletta Tel: 2247 6601


THE HOG “IF YOU are going to kill the animal, it seems only polite to use the whole thing,” says Fergus Henderson of London’s beloved piggy restaurant, St John. And the Served team whole heartedly agrees.

By Cath Scerri

So much of a pig sadly goes to waste, and only because consumers want their meat cut and packaged up in easy-to-cook cuts like chops, ribs and roasting joints, with much of the carcass thrown away. Even though, with a little time and imagination, much of it is not only edible but delicious too. From shoulders, knuckles, hocks and loin to ribs, belly strips, trotters and chops there are so many good dishes to create. Scores of pig’s head recipes can be found online and the same goes for its ears, tail and trotters. And many of us must have memories of black pudding sausage, brain fritters and other dishes using the heart, the kidneys and the liver and sheets of skin and fat for crispy crackling.

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THE HOG

The whole hog & nothing but the hog. after

r e n in d d o a go on e

So here are our reasons for eating nose to tail; 1. In Deference to the pig: Using every part of the animal shows respect and reverence for the pig’s life not to mention reducing waste and gaining nutrition. A pig’s carcass yields the best bone broth, perfect and wholesome for the coming cold months. And with less waste comes less demand for mass produced animals. Have a look at Julia Ripard’s recipe for bone broth on the following page. 2. For the healthier aspects of a pig We’ve mentioned bone broth and how eating the whole animal is a much healthier way of eating. This is also because until relatively recently, people’s demands leaned towards muscle meat, which, while also good, misses out on the full spectrum of amino acids necessary for vital health functioning. The whole-animal balance of amino acids comes from eating all parts like muscle, bones, cartilage, and offal so instead of throwing the brains and bones away make fritters and bone broth. Most of us will remember the comfort of being nursed back from the flu or a cold with ‘toretellini in brodu’. 3. Easier on the pocket Superior quality food costs money, so why waste any little part of it? And who can resist getting more for your money on food these days. If you think about it you pay less for a whole chicken than if you bought the pieces separately. Learn how to joint a small animal on one of the many YouTube links or ask your butcher to help you out. This is because the less expensive cuts and pieces balance out the more expensive ones. And there’s the added you get the bones and offal cuts. And we’ve already mentioned that bone broth is one of life’s heathier and tastier tonics. 4. Support local. Buying your animals local and as whole as possible supports local farmers, who in turn make more money because they are selling more of each animal so they can afford to keep their prices fair. Everyone wins as they make more money and enjoy a more rounded demand for their fairly priced product while consumers get more food and flavour for their money. 5. The gastronomical experience Eating snout to tail makes for more interesting eating and opens our palates to a more enriching culinary experience. Instead of eating the same dish think outside the box and experiment with pate, patties, bone marrow, bacon and big roasts. All easy to make with a little bit of planning and a keenness to open your repertoire. From liver into pate, fried kidneys and brain fritters, to slow cooked cheeks, stuffed loins and tender filets to pork belly for sausage and pork scratchings from the skin, and of course the universally beloved bacon, one pig alone will could take you on an international food odyssey.

c o u ld f o r g iv e

a n y b o doyw n re la ti ve s ev en on es - oscar wilde 097


Casa Modena

A Long History of Taste

*The Casa Modena story is one of the most successful in the Emilia region, where the traditional art of producing cured meats meets the modern makers of cured meats. Forming part of a region whose gastronomic and manufacturing excellence is recognised throughout the world, this is also a region which is often referred to as the birthplace for eating well. The art of producing cold meats is based on an in-depth knowledge of the manufacturing process, which in Emilia starts with the region itself.


And at the Casa Modena, being ‘Masters of Salumi’ means combining traditional recipes using artisan methods with innovative techniques and tastes in order to produce and deliver only the highest quality salumi. So, look no further for a delectable spread of cold cuts and cheeses to serve over the festive period than the Casa Modena meats.Served also recommends Prosecco from Villa Sandi to wash down this veritable feast. All products are imported and distributed by Vivian Corporation


Traditional Craftsmanship EXPERTS ABOUT ZALTO However, perhaps Zalto are to become the new benchmark in glass culture... Robert Girgone, UK sommelier and wine-consultant

The glasses that have most impressed me recently, from Zalto ... are the thinnest and most delicate I have come across, yet seem springy and almost elastic in the hand. ... and would give any serious wine lover a real thrill over the closeness of contact they offer. Jancis Robinson, Financial Times

Technical perfection is the basic principle of the Zalto Glass House. Each Zalto glass echoes the delicate virtuosity of the great Venetian glass artists of the Renaissance.

I didn't think that there would be anything better on the glass-market ...this glass is. Moreover it has something erotic... Francois Mauss, president of “Grand Jury Européen”

... I 've been doing a few comparisons with the Zalto and other glasses ...I'm impressed enough to covet some Zalto. David Schildknecht, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

For me the best glasses to express terroir and character, I use them everyday. Aldo Sohm, “Best Sommelier of the World 2008” Chef Sommelier “ Le Bernardin” NY

Philippe Martinet Fine Wines, 239/BB Tower Road Sliema SLM 1601 +356 99511787 www.martinet-finewines.com


UPDATES

Cu rren t – N ovem ber ‘17

on the bottle...

11.17 WINES – UPDATES

The red list / the glass debate / most expensive wine ever

SVE I D CUS TOM- M A D E C ORK S CRE W One of the priciest gadgets you will ever lay your eyes on, the Sveid custom made corkscrew is a true feat of engineering. Priced at $70,000, you can admire its breath-taking design with its fifty plus separate pieces. Produced from aviation titanium it is extremely detailed and can be purchased in either yellow gold or eighteen carat platinum. You can even make your very own engraving. This is an investment piece for the long term.

NE W EVID EN C E FO R W ORL D ’S O L D EST K NO WN WIN E

Fabien's Red List

Whether you want to splurge on your red this season or try a more reasonable bottle, Fabien recommends three gorgeous red wines which will impress any wine lover.

2014 Château le Puy, Barthélemy, Franc Côtes de Bordeaux, France Where to find it: Abraham's Supplies Co Ltd - Vini e Capricci

2010 Brunello di Montalcino, San Polo, Tuscany, Italy

Ψ PSI, Peter Sisseck, Ribera del Duero, Spain

Where to find it: Iv Cellar Sir Arturo Marcieca street, Sliema 2013

Where to find it: Phillipe Martinet -Fine Wine, 239/BB Tower road, Sliema

"Wine is bottled poetry" – Robert Louis Stevenson

H I T O R MY TH: IS THE TA S TE O F A W IN E A LT E R E D B Y T H E SHA P E O F TH E G L A S S ?

AU C T I O N FEVER The 2015 Setting Wines Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was auctioned off at the Emeril Lagasse Foundation auction this month for a whopping $350,000, setting the record for the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold at auction. It was created by Jesse Katz for Shep Gordon, manager for among many others, Wolfgang Puck, Blondie, and Pink Floyd.

The shape of a wine glass is a key factor in bringing out the drink’s full flavour. The reason for using wider glasses for red wine is because of the increased surface area, which allows more oxygen in, helping to release the aromas. The reaction between the wine and other compounds also adds layers to the drink’s aroma. White wine doesn’t require so much room, and is usually drunk out of a smaller glass.

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ccording to a report by BBC News, 8,000-year-old pottery earthenware jars containing residual wine compounds were found in two sites south of the Georgian capital, Tbilisi, revealing the earliest evidence of grape wine-making. Some of the jars even bore images of grape clusters and a man dancing. The pottery jars were discovered in two Neolithic villages, called Gadachrili Gora and Shulaveris Gora, about 50km (30 miles) south of Tbilisi, researchers said. Previously, the earliest evidence of grape wine-making had been found in the Zagros Mountains of Iran and dated to 5,400-5,000 BC. In 2011, a wine press and fermentation jars from about 6,000 years ago were found in a cave in Armenia. The world’s earliest non-grape based wine is believed to be a fermented alcoholic beverage of rice, honey and fruit found in China and dating to about 7,000 BC.


Congrats it’s a DOK Gozo!

Wines of Distinction DOK Malta • DOK Gozo IGT Maltese Islands dokmaltadokgozo dokmaltadokgozo.gov.mt

Brought to you by


ON THE BOTTLE

The Thirsty Dog

O F A L L T HI NGS GI N.

My first introduction to gin was by my gran. Call it an old wives tale, call it the wisdom of old… but she swore (and I am a convert) that nothing would alleviate a sore back as easily as a little gin. There is something about old wives, or clever grans… they are, often, right. For me, the problem with gin is the mixer. There was no G without its T. And tonic is bitter. In a person it is the most abhorrent trait. In food, best avoided… but in drink…. I just can’t do it. Had I malaria, I could possibly consider drinking tonic water… on the basis of a cost benefit analysis, tonic water (or the quinin element, source of the bitterness) would trump malaria, but to drink it for fun? Just didn’t cut it. So that virtually eliminated gin from my booze repertoire. Until I tried a gin fizz. Gin Fizz? I hear you ask? One summer holiday, one cocktail bar, one ‘let’s try all the specials’ one gin fizz. Gin, lemonade (the real thing, squeezed lemons, with a touch of sugar/ sweeter) topped with soda water … and Boom! Forget tonic… hello gin! Gin, why oh why were you (are you) a slave to tonic? Try a gin fizz… go on… just do! Fast forward a year, and the sister in law

flies in for a visit … fresh from a gin festival. She introduces me to Silent Pool gin. In my previous life, I was a whiskey girl, exploring with relish, the different blends and malts. Gin was just gin. I’d never thought of gin other than Gordons. But whoa! After a sip of Silent Pool (after drooling over the bottle….such a lovely design) I was sold. Gin has a life without tonic… lemonade if you need to tone it down, but try it neat, with the right garnish and a dash of soda water, if you prefer to dilute it. As for the garnishes?! A whole new world, A cardamom pod or two, pink pepper corns, lavender sprigs, juniper berries, to return to roots, or, for the more adventurous Sichuan pepper corns. Try different gin infusions… earl grey tea, lavender … the flavours have no end (to the tonic converts… these work as well

with tonic…. But try without… just to savour the flavour) And as for the different gins…. There is a whole new world. I’m only learning – for the smoothest tipple, Tanqueray Gin. Silent Pool, evocative of the silent pool from where it is inspired (with tonic, if you must). For some spice in life, try The Botanist, neat, with a sprig of smoking rosemary, and to stick to the med, try Gin Mare, neat, accompanied by some olives, to bring out the Mediterranean tones of the gin, or Monkey 47 exploding with herbal tones. I must try some more gins… I promise I will… and watch this space… I will review and revert. And while sipping on this smooth nectar from the juniper berries…enjoy the design of the bottles which deliver this aqua vita (which are an art to themselves) and ponder… what would you rather have in life – a tonic, or a little fizz? But, in the meantime, don’t forget the gin. PS – Always drink carefully.

Made by hand

Ghagin&Co. is a local pasta producer with a modern take on gourmet food. Daniel Bartolo, the Gozitan chef behind this concept, consistently delivers artisanal handmade pasta using only top quality and fresh ingredients. Offering a vast variety of loose and filled pasta, Ghagin&Co. currently caters for the island’s leading restaurants. Fillings include the usual meat and cheese but look out for beetroot tortellini filled with baby sweet potato mash and bell peppers. Tel: +356 2766 6000 Mob: +356 7930 6888 ghaginco@gmail.com fb /ghaginco 0103


Pure art, true love and sheer dedication are all essential characteristics for a vine grape grower to provide wine lovers with the healthy vines needed to produce the best quality grapes which are fermented into awarded winning wines.

The Four Seasons of a Vine Grower. T

he work of the grape vine grower is often neglected and goes unobserved even by most expert wine lovers. However, the grower's work constitutes the basis for one of the biggest segments within the food and beverage sector – wine. Indeed, vines are known to live long years. Cultivation of vines for wine production dates back for centuries. Local records prove that Malta has been producing wine since the times of the Phoenicians. The grapevine is a perennial plant requiring the role of the grape vine grower to remain central throughout the annual growth cycle. The vine’s cycle depends a lot on the climate in which it grows though the main stages are the blooming and growth, (early spring to summer) followed by the leaf fall and eventual dormancy experienced in autumn and winter. And then the cycle repeats itself again the following spring.

Now without intervention, specifically from the growers, grapevines tend to grow in a creeper formation of leaves and branches. From a viticulture perspective, this isn’t good, so it is the grower’s role to ensure a proper development of the vine which will allow it to produce grapes with ideal characteristics for making wine. It is only with meticulous pruning and training that the grape vine grower manages to shape the vines and coax them into focussing their energy on grapes and not only on shoots and leaves. High quality grapes are the starting point to excellent wines. The grower can only reach the highest qualities by employing cultivation techniques over the years though the results may only be obtained over a period of years.

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ON THE BOTTLE

..."The vintner is after perfect ripeness and during this time, from early August to mid-September, he works closely with the viticulturists to ensure that the grapes are picked in time."...

Planning a Vineyard The role of a grape vine grower starts even before the vineyard is planted. Above all the grower needs to yield the best crop, which requires specific knowledge including an understanding of soil and its drainage, climate and weather, and in hotter countries like Malta, sun exposure. It’s safe to say that an accurate analysis and deep understanding of soil is the departing point for any grower. In planning a vineyard, the grape vine grower must ensure that the vines get their water whilst ensuring sufficient drainage and subsoil humidity. Cultivation During the delicate first year of growth and cultivation in a vine’s life, the grower’s role is of paramount importance, ensuring that the vine builds up nutrient stores and establishes a strong root system preventing it from producing fruit so early.

Life Cycle With such a varied annual cycle, the vine presents a constant challenge to the grower who has to employ all his knowledge, care, and dedication to its cultivation according to the seasons. The first signs of life in the vine occur when the sap rises up and the buds begin to break. The new saplings are very fragile during this period. Given that in Malta strong spring winds are very common, the grower spends all his time protecting these buds from being broken. It is at this stage that some growers, also in line with particular DOK and IĠT regimes, prune some shoots to reduce the potential crop size. This strategy involves the careful and acute knowledge as the grower expertly reduces quantity to increase quality. Pollination is the one area in which nature can follow its natural, uncomplicated course with no human intervention required. Early to mid-summer sees the grapes maturing from a vegetal green to the colour of the mature grape. In

the process referred to as green harvesting, the grower once again removes some superficial grape bunches so that the vines can focus their energy on their remaining grapes. In this manner, DOK and IĠT wines are conceived, carefully respecting the strict production regimes envisaged for such certified productions. Harvest While all this is going on , the grower is quietly keeping an eye on the wood, an equally important component in this cog, ensuring that it flourishes over the summer, turning brown and hardening. Harvest time is obviously the most exciting period for the grower who can finally reap the fruits of his arduous work. The vintner is after perfect ripeness and during this time, from early August to mid-September, he works closely with the viticulturists to ensure that the grapes are picked in time. The grape does not continue to ripen once harvested.

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Pruning Winter pruning is a very important, albeit expensive annual procedure in every vineyard. This is where the grower’s expertise and love come to the fore. Now he must choose the best canes removing the ones from the prior year to make space for new ones. True growers can change and vary the pruning from season to season if over or under production is an issue. Pruning not only give the physical shape to the vine but it also determines the amounts of fruit which the vine will produce from year to year. During the winter months, when leaves have fallen, the grower prunes the vine; an art which he or she exercises with delicate balance. It is a skill that requires human finesse, experience, and judgement acquired only through passion for vine growing. This is the life of a grape vine grower – a silent, laborious and meticulous work of love which permits the world to taste, enjoy and experience nature’s gift to mankind – WINE.


ON THE BOTTLE

A wine for every season... Sommelier Fabien Etienne makes merry with his selection of wines If there is one wine I will never been tired of, it’s champagne. For many, champagne is brought out on those special occasions; wedding, birth of a baby or a graduation. But I find champagne so unique and complex that it can shine at any time of year and for any occasion whether to celebrate an evening with friends or to see in the New Year.

“Always carry champagne! In victory You deserve it & in defeat You need it!” - Napoléon Bonaparte

Fabien’s champagnes of the moment: NV AR Lenoble, Terroirs, Brut Rosé, Chouilly-Bisseuil, France AR Lenoble was established in 1920 by AR Graser, who came to Champagne from his native Alsace during the First World War. This is one of those very rare house to be consistently family owned throughout. Owners Anne and Antoine Malassagne are the great grandchildren of the founder and the fourth generation to run the house. Tasting notes: Salmon color, petal of roses, with aerial and dense bubbles and a light foam. The nose reveals the delicate aromas of red fruits such as raspberry, strawberry and floral notes as acacia. In the mouth, the attack is very fresh, creamy and rounded. The finish is clear, pure and all in lightness. A pure discovery. Pairing: As an aperitif but will also perfectly accompany a Serrano Ham, grilled salmon or veal with fresh vegetables or a Gouda aged 48 months. Where to find it: La Vini Culture 228 Manwel Dimech street, Sliema SLM1055, Malta

“Why do I drink Champagne for breakfast? Doesn’t everyone?” – Noel Coward

2004 Pol Roger, Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, Epernay, France

2005 Bollinger, La Grande Année, Brut, Aÿ, France

The house of Pol Roger is among the longestablished and traditional family enterprises in the Champagne region of France. It was founded in January 1849 in the town of Aÿ by the 18 year old Pol Roger under the single name of Roger. When Pol Roger died in 1899 at the age of 68, his two sons Maurice and Georges decided to change their surnames to Pol-Roger in order to honor their father. Consequently, the name of the brand was also changed to Pol Roger.

Champagne Bollinger was founded in 1829 by Jacques Bollinger, and soon earned a reputation for quality. Today Bollinger remains one of the few independent family-owned and managed Champagne houses, with each family member passionate about safeguarding the distinctive style that sets Bollinger Champagne apart. In 1976, Bollinger Vintage was re-named Grande Année. Then in 1997, it became La Grande Année - 'The Great Year' - a name simple enough to illustrate its exceptional status, because only truly extraordinary years become vintage at Bollinger. It is the best wine Bollinger can produce in an individual year and it is also one of my favorite!

Pol Roger did not produce its first Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill until 1975 as homage to the British statesman (1874-1965), thus making it one of the more recent prestige cuvées. Composed exclusively of grapes sourced from Grands Crus Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards which were already under vine during Churchill's lifetime. Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is only made in the very best vintages and is always released later than the other vintage dated Champagnes from Pol Roger, marking Churchill's appreciation for older wines. Tasting notes: An intense golden yellow color showing a dense, ripe, fresh, pure and elegant bouquet of matured apples, apricots and lemon flavors along with exciting spicy flavors. Crisp acidity and fabulous intensity. The finish shows a remarkable length, with creamy notes of butter combined with rich fruitiness of Mirabelle plum and tart, ripe pear. A must try ! Pairing: As an aperitif, or cassolette of scallops in their shells, any shellfish and seafood. Where to find it: Philippe Martinet -Fine Wines 239/bb Tower road, Sliema

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This vintage is entirely fermented in oak barrel and is produced from fourteen crus: 91% Grand Cru and 9% Premier Cru. Tasting notes: A fresh hue, with gold highlights showing lovely ripeness. On the nose, complex aromas of honey, hazelnuts and rich fruits. Generous palate, creamy texture with biscuity and yeasty notes, finish with orchard and candied orange fruits flavours. This wine carries the ultimate expression of the house style. Full-bodied, yet sophisticated and lively. A long, luxurious finish. Pairing: Cold and warm crustaceans, raw and marinated fish and or carpaccio. Pan fried Foie Gras, warm and seared scallops and hard cheeses. Where to find it: Farsons Beverage Imports Company Ltd The Brewery, Mdina Road, Mriehel Fabien Etienne is a Sommelier wine consultant who has recently relocated to Malta to set up his wine and service consultancy. find out more find him on https://www.facebook.com/fe.consultant/


FOLK FOOD

Charming chestnuts

F O L K FOOD Get into the festive mood by roasting your own chestnuts and filling the kitchen with that warm smell, then use them in turkey stuffing, cakes and crumbles, or just eat them hot from the oven. Whatever you decide to do with them, save some for this ‘Imbuljuta’ recipe. Traditionally served after Midnight Mass or on New Year's Eve, this chestnut cocoa combo with its spicy aroma of chocolate and citrus, is so easy to make you won’t want to wait till Christmas eve. Ingredients Prep time 5 mins plus 1 hr cooking Ingredients 400g dried chestnuts 80g dark chocolate 80g cocoa powder 2 tangerine rinds 4tblsp brown sugar 2 tbsp. ground cinnamon 1 ½ tbsp. mixed spice

Method Soak the chestnuts overnight. Place all the ingredients into a large pot and add a litre of water. Roll to a boil and then simmer for around an hour, stirring occasionally and adding more water if the consistency is too thick. Serves 4

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FOLK FOOD

( Imbuljuta)

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HERITAGE

C H O C O LAT E At Th e Pa l a ce

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alta’s best documented early modern kitchen can be seen at the Inquisitor’s Palace in Birgu. Research into numerous 17th and 18th century inventories reveal an impressive facility, which is quite understandable since this was a time of ritualized greeting, when food played a significant role, and was as important as refined architecture, furnishings and collections in projecting an image of grandeur. By 1759 the Inquisitor’s kitchen area consisted of a dispensa, a tinello dei servi, a tinello dei cammerieri, a cucina, a credenza and a sala del primo cortile dove stanno i servi; and was furnished with a multitude of utensils to store meat, oil and ice, and all sorts of pots, pens, tin and copper tray to prepare pane di spagna, ice cream, sorbet, coffee and chocolate.

chocolate wrapping paper was printed in Malta, probably the time when chocolate starts to be consumed as a solid. In an inventory of the Inquisitor’s Palace, compiled on 24 April 1798, no less than “tre cioccolatiere di rame” – three copper chocolate pots, among other specialized copper and tin trays are listed’; their sole purpose was to entertain the inquisitor’s sweet tooth. To breathe life back into a once busy kitchen, Heritage Malta is not only securing historic kitchen utensils for its museum displays, but organising an outreach programme of historic cook-along sessions – an exclusive sharing of historically researched recipes adapted for contemporary cooking to offer an authentic sensory experience.

Food historian Dr Noel Buttigieg from the Institute of Tourism, Travel and Culture at the University of Malta, claims that Malta was among the pioneering countries to have introduced the drinking of chocolate in Europe. In 1658, Francesco Buonamico writes the Trattato della Cioccolata claiming that ‘Our island can truthfully boast of having been a forerunner in the coffee and chocolate drinking crazes that swept across Europe in the 17th century.’ Originating in Mexico, chocolate was probably introduced to Malta by the Spanish knights. Due

to its expensive market value and exotic nature, this drink, was primarily consumed by the nobility. Despite its limited market, chocolate continued to attract the attention of scientists interested in discussing the nutritional benefits of this drink. Although the drink was shunned through a twenty-eight-page lamentation by Dr Giuseppe Demarco, it was still recognized as a precious treat. Dr Buttigieg points at various references where the 'drink of the gods' was

offered to dignitaries visiting the island. Grand Master Pinto presented chocolate as a reward to the valorous few individuals who managed to break a network of three-year organized smuggling from the Order’s bakery. Grand Master Perellos used to entertain several women with this drink, and Inquisitors Paolo Passionei, Giorgio Salviati and Antonio Lante also treated their high-ranking guests with this sophisticated chocolate. Between 1761 and 1770

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Heritage Malta – 18th century copper chocolate pot, Inquisitor’s Palace, Vittoriosa


STAY SWEET

Cu rren t – N ovem ber ‘17

watch out...

11.17

ENTERTAINEMENT

Chri s t m as tra d i ti o n s / Ta h i n i tre n d i n g / Powe r o f p o rk

TH E F E S TIVE F E V E R TA K ES HOLD

HACK KING.

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Greenland’s goodies Men serve the women throughout the course of a Christmas meal in Greenland, in a heart-warming tradition. That said, the eating itself is not always the easier task since the national festival dish, mattak, is strips of whale blubber encased in whale skin. And while the men may dish it up, it is presumably the women who must do the bulk of the work when preparing the other delicacy, kiviak. Baby auks are buried in a seal-skin several months before Christmas, then dug up once they’ve started to rot and served straight away.

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Japanese fried chicken. The good folks at Kentucky Fried Chicken launched their 1974 ‘Christmas Chicken’ campaign in Japan after hearing of Western expats turning to bargain buckets when they were unable to source a turkey in Tokyo. Forty years later, KFC orders must be placed weeks before Christmas, and come 25thDecember it is not uncommon to see well to do Japanese families sitting around a table in the chicken shop, sharing a family bucket of fried chicken, champagne and cake.

The Best Bacon

Thrilling to taste + trending

Sesame sweets are nothing new, but tahini on the other hand has only recently been popping up on more and more dessert menus. As with peanut butter, tahini’s nutty, creamy flavour plays well in both sweet and savoury dishes—although it’s the sweet ones that are really having a moment. Creative collaborations between sesame paste and Japanese flavours like matcha and red bean have produced wonderful results. Or substitute it for peanut butter in something like cookie dough for a nuttier taste and texture. Yosma, in London, is famed for its tahini fondant; imagine the chocolate fondant; oozing hot, sticky, sauce – but it’s not chocolate, it’s tahini. So much more thrilling.

RUNNING BACON UNDER COLD WATER BEFORE COOKING WILL REDUCE IT SHRINKING BY 50%. ALSO, TO BRING OUT THE MAXIMUM FLAVOUR FROM YOUR BACON, COOK IT FOR 10 MINUTES IN A HOT OVEN AT 185 DEGREES C

THE K ING OF CAV IA R

For those times when nothing but the best will do, you may want to indulge in the world’s most expensive caviar. Almas is that rarest of Beluga white caviar, which hails from Iran and comes packed in a 24-carat gold tin. Sold exclusively through Caviar House & Prunier in London, one kilo will set you back at least € 20,000.

PIG PA RT S A R O U N D T H E WO RL D BRAIN FOOD

Fried brain sandwiches are popular in Midwestern United States. Said to be derived from a dish handed down from German settlers in the area, fresh calf or pig brain is sliced, battered, fried and served like a hamburger on a bun with sides. A fried creamy taste and texture is reportedly enjoyed.

REALLY RAW SOUP

In Vietnam, the local delicacy is Tiet Canh, or raw blood soup. Made by collecting fresh, raw duck blood and mixed with fish sauce to keep it from coagulating too quickly, other offal and peanuts are added. It is then served with the blood coagulated or in a liquid form depending on your stamina.

BLACK BLOOD

As the chilly wind begin to blow across the mountains of France, preparations for boudin noir, or black blood sausage or congealed pork blood begin. When a pig is slaughtered the blood is conserved, mixed (usually with vinegar) to keep it from setting, and then combined with various ingredients until it congeals. Depending on the region,

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these range from onions and herbs to bread or rice. The mixture is then pressed into a length of gut through a funnel. And elsewhere in the world it’s black pudding as for breakfast in the UK, in Germany it’s known as Blutwurst; in Belgium it is bloedworst; and Spain has its variation called morcilla


STAY SWEET

#SWEET TREATS December is the best time of year for indulging and if you’re looking for something festive but different try these alternatives. Inspired by the all senses, our pros and home cooks have really gone to town in the following pages. >>

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S W E E T S 116


Serves 4 – Prep time 45 mins

CHOCOLATES + RED-CURRANTS Executive Head Chef: Adrian Buttigieg, Le Meridien

250g butter melted 110g cocoa powder 330g sugar 220g flour 10g baking powder 1tsp. vanilla essence 110g whipped cream 110g white chocolate 120g cream cheese 150g red currants 75ml water 75g sugar

To make the white chocolate mousse, simply mix the cream cheese with the white chocolate and fold in the whipped cream with ½ tsp of vanilla essence. For the chocolate cake mix the butter with the cocoa powder, add the sugar and mix well, adding in the eggs and combine. Add the sifted flour and baking powder. Pour the mixture into a cake tin and bake in a medium heated oven for 25 minutes. Leave to cool. Cut a portion of the chocolate cake and keep in a mould, pour over the white chocolate mousse and put in a refrigerator to set. When it’s hard enough and set properly, dip in melted white chocolate to cover all the areas and cool in a fridge until hardened. Boil the water with sugar, add the currants, boil for 30 seconds, and blend. Chill immediately. Place the pre-prepared white chocolate coated brownie and mousse cake in the middle of the plate, put a tablespoon of the sauce, and finish off with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream.

S E A S O N 117


Recipe on Pg. 127

BY THE PROS

Serves 6 Prep time 5-6hrs

ALL THE FESTIVE REDS Pro chef: Mark McBride, Corinthia

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BY THE PROS

Serves 4 – Prep time 60 mins

HAZELNUT & CHERRY YULE LOG ON CHESTNUT AND DATE CAKE, SERVED WITH CHESTNUT COMPOTE Executive Pastry chef: Otis Caruana, Hilton Malta

Ingredients for the hazelnut cream: 180ml cream 2g gelatine leaves 30g sugar 3 egg yolks 40g hazelnuts ground to a paste Ingredients for the cherry jelly: 500ml cherry purée 200g sugar 7 gelatine leaves Ingredients for the date and chestnut cake: 50g chestnuts 150g dates 250ml water 1 tsp. bicarbonate of soda 50g butter 150g sugar 2 eggs 150g self-rising flour For the hazelnut cream: Mix the sugar and egg yolks. Meanwhile soak the gelatine leaves and boil the cream. Mix the egg mixture into the cream and stir until it gets a custard consistency, then add the gelatine and the hazelnut paste. Pour the mix in moulds and leave to set.

For the cherry jelly: Boil the sugar and cherry purée and then add the soaked gelatine leaves, pour in a tray and leave to set

For the cake: Boil the dates and chestnuts in the water under they soften the add the bicarbonate. Beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy and add in the eggs. Gently fold in the flour and the date and chestnuts. Pour into a rectangular cake mould and cook on 155 C for 30 minutes. Cut into slices once cool, serve with jelly cubes and the hazelnut moulds.

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BY THE PROS

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demajowinesandspirits.com


STAY SWEET Serves 3 – Prep 20 mins + 2 hrs chilling time

15 Oreos 120 g dark chocolate roughly chopped 1/2 cup milk 2 cup heavy whipping cream very chilled 1/3 cup Baileys chilled 1/4 cup icing sugar Crush the Oreo cookies in a food processor or in a freezer bag and set aside. Place chopped chocolate in a small bowl. Heat milk until steaming, then pour over chocolate. Let sit for 2-3 minutes, then stir. If any chunks of chocolate remain, heat in the microwave for 30-second intervals until all the chocolate has melted. Mixture will be very liquid, like chocolate milk. Set aside and let cool to room temperature.

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Using a hand mixer combine chilled heavy cream, Baileys, and icing sugar in a large mixing bowl and beat on high until stiff peaks form for about 5-7 minutes. Divide cream mixture in half. The first half of the whipped cream will be left alone and is ready to use in the parfait. The second half will be mixed with the chocolate. When ready, slowly add the chocolate mixture over this half of the whipped cream, gently (yet thoroughly) folding them together until completely mixed. To assemble the parfaits: Using a spoon, add layers of the cream and crushed cookies. The best way is to begin with a layer of chocolate, then cream, then cookies, then cream again, then chocolate again, then cream again, and finally finish with any remaining cookie crumbles on top. Parfaits can be served immediately. If you’d like the chocolate layer to be firmer, chill parfaits for 2-3 hours before serving.

Baileys cookies and cream parfaits

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600ml cream zest of 1 orange 6 cardamom pods 5 egg yolks 75g sugar Caster sugar to caramelize

Doll by Vitra – Available from DEX workspaces

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BY THE PROS

Serves 6 – Prep time 1hr 20 mins

ORANGE AND CARDAMOM CREME BRULE Home Cook James Staniland

Pre-heat the oven to 180 Celsius, break the cardamom pods and remove the seeds, put the seeds, cream and the orange zest into a pot, bring to a simmer for 5 mins to let the flavours infuse, remove from heat and let sit for 15 mins (this helps the

flavours infuse into the cream) strain the mixture to remove the seeds and zest. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together till pale and creamy, add the cream mixture and whisk till combined. Place the ramekins in a deep sided roasting tray, pour the mix into the ramekins till ¾ of the way up, then pour hot water into the roasting tray till it reaches half way up the ramekins.

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Place tray into center of oven and bake for 40-45 mins or until just set (with a toothpick prick the mix and remove; if the toothpick comes away clean it is done) remove the ramekins from the water and let cool. Place in fridge to chill and set overnight. Before serving, sprinkle a generous amount of sugar over the top covering the surface and then use a blowtorch and caramelize the sugar, if you don’t have a blowtorch put under the grill till the sugar caramelizes. Let sugar cool and harden then serve.


BY THE PROS

Miniature chairs by Vitra – Available from DEX workspaces

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BY THE PROS

Serves 12 Prep time 45 mins

RASPBERRY BROWNIE Home Cook James Staniland

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JUST LET THAT SINK IN... Psaila Street, Santa Venera +356 2147 2241 / www.bridgepoint.com.mt / find us on: instagram brand10 brand16


BY THE PROS

Serves 6 Prep time 5-6hrs

ALL THE FESTIVE REDS Pro chef: Mark McBride, Corinthia

Ingredients for Sweet Pastry: 225g plain flour 110g butter 80g sugar 1 large egg Ingredients for Raspberry Mousse: 125ml iced water 2 tsp. gelatine powder 1 tbsp. lemon juice 60g sugar 200 fresh raspberries 250ml fresh cream 1 vanilla bean slit in half, seeds removed Ingredients for Chocolate Decorations: 200g white chocolate Ingredients for Cherry Ripple Ice Cream: For the ice cream: 600ml cream 600ml full-fat milk 1 vanilla pod, split, seeds scraped out with a knife 10 egg yolks 225g caster sugar Ingredients for the ripple sauce: 500g fresh raspberries or blackcurrants, rinsed 50g caster sugar 3 tbsp. water For Sweet Pastry: Crumble the butter into the flour by hand. Add the sugar and mix in the egg, and enough milk until you form a soft dough. Roll out a thin sheet of dough and using a cookie cutter, cut out a round disk, use smaller cutters

to cut circles, repeat the process for the rectangular base. Bake at 160 degrees Celsius, allow to cool and keep in airtight container until needed. For Raspberry Mousse: Pour some cold water into a saucepan and mix in the gelatine allowing it to sit for 5 minutes. Stir in boiling water, vanilla bean, sugar, lemon juice, and raspberries bringing them to boil on medium heat. Turn down the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour mixture into a food processor and blend until smooth. Allow to cool for about 10 minutes. In a large bowl, add whipping cream and beat with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Fold in the raspberry mixture, pipe into tubular moulds and freeze to set. Once set remove and spray with cocoa butter spray, place in the refrigerator until needed for plating.

For Chocolate Decorations: Temper the white chocolate, add red cocoa butter colourings. Spread onto acetate plastic sheets, roll onto tube and allow to set. Using metal cutters cut out circles into chocolate tube. For strands, pipe designs onto paper and again spray with gold.

For Cherry Ripple Ice Cream: For the ice cream, pour the cream and milk into a large saucepan, whisk in the vanilla pod and seeds and bring to a boil. Once it reaches boiling point, remove from the heat. Remove the vanilla pod (it can be rinsed, dried and re-used in another recipe). Whisk together the egg yolks and caster sugar until pale and creamy. Pour over the hot milk and cream mixture, whisking continuously, until the mixture is smooth and well combined. Return the mixture to a clean saucepan and heat over a low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring continuously, until the mixture is thick enough to coat

the back of a spoon. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the custard to a clean bowl. Cover the surface with cling film to prevent a skin from forming, then set aside to cool for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, for the ripple sauce, place the fruit, sugar and water into a large pan and bring the mixture to the boil, stirring regularly. Reduce the heat until the mixture is simmering, then continue to simmer for 8-10 minutes, or until the fruit has broken down. Strain the fruit mixture through a sieve into a clean pan, squeezing any additional juice out of the fruit by pressing it down with the back of a spoon. Return the strained fruit juice to the heat and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer until the mixture resembles a thick syrup. Set aside until completely cooled. Pour the cooled custard into an ice-cream machine and churn according to instructions, until thick and smooth. Spoon a third of the ice cream mixture into a lidded freezer container. Spoon over half of the cooled ripple sauce. Repeat the process until the container has three layers of ice cream and two layers of ripple sauce. Using a blunt knife, marble the ice cream and ripple sauce lightly, then cover the container with a lid and freeze for 3-4 hours, or until solid. Using small baller scoop out ice cream balls, return to freezer for one hour, take out and spray with red cocoa butter. return to freezer until needed. To assemble: Start by placing rectangular sweet pastry biscuit on a plate and place the mousse, followed by chocolate tube. Place 3 raspberries onto plate, followed by the cherry ripple balls. Dot plate with strawberry, raspberry, and cherry sauces. Decorate with gold strands and serve.

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Serves 12 Prep time 45 mins

RASPBERRY BROWNIE Home Cook James Staniland

Ingredients 300g dark chocolate 250g salted butter 400g light brown sugar 4 large eggs 140g plain flour 40g cocoa powder 200g raspberries (can substitute with any berries you want) Pre-heat oven to 180 Celsius and line a 20x30cm baking tray with baking paper. In a pot on a low heat add chocolate, butter and sugar and let gentle melt together, mixing every now and again with a wooden spoon, remove from heat. Stir the eggs one by one into the chocolate mixture, transfer to bowl, sift in the flour and cocoa in stages folding it into the mixture. Add half the berries and mix. Transfer to the baking tray, bang the tray a few times on a surface to level the mixture and then sprinkle with the remaining berries. Bake for 30 mins, or if you’re after a harder texture, bake for an extra 5 mins, cool and then cut into pieces. Will keep in an airtight container for three days. TIP If you prefer a bit of crunch fold in some crushed nuts like hazelnut or macadamia nuts into the mix before baking.


SHOPPING

Eat, shop + Live. Our Served directory keeps growing, bringing you alternative options and suggestions on where to shop, eat and drink and generally be merry this season. >>

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SHOPPING


UNBEATABLE PRICES  QUALITY AT

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CASTILLE


吀栀攀 匀攀砀椀攀猀琀 倀愀瀀攀爀 伀渀 䔀愀爀琀栀℀

洀爀⸀戀愀猀椀氀开洀愀氀琀愀

刀攀渀漀瘀愀 倀愀瀀攀爀 䴀愀氀琀愀

䐀椀猀琀爀椀戀甀琀攀搀 戀礀㨀 刀⸀䨀⸀䄀 䔀渀琀攀爀瀀爀椀猀攀猀 䰀琀搀 ⴀ 吀爀椀焀 䨀漀栀渀 䴀椀挀栀愀攀氀 吀攀猀琀愀ⴀ 䠀愀渀搀愀焀 ⬀㌀㔀㘀 ㈀㄀㐀㤀㜀㄀㜀㠀   㬀 椀渀昀漀䀀爀樀愀氀椀洀椀琀攀搀⸀挀漀洀


WHERE?

WHERE TO FIND SERVED SERVED IS AVAILABLE AT LOADS OF LOCALITIES AND THELIST KEEPS GROWING! Food Stores

Adam’s Fish Shop, Mosta Arkadia Foodstore, Gozo Azzopardi Fisheries, St Paul’s Bay Chains Supermarket The Point, Sliema Chains Supermarket The Point, Fgura Chains Supermarket The Point, Tarxien Chains Supermarket The Point, Zabbar Gala Supermarket, Ta’ Xbiex Greens Supermarket, Swieqi Scotts Supermarket, Attard Scotts Supermarket, B’Kara. Scotts Supermarket, Burmarrad Scotts Supermarket, Naxxar. Scotts Supermarket, Santa Lucia. Scotts Supermarket, Sliema Scotts Supermarket, St. Julians Scotts Supermarket, Zabbar Tower Supermarket, Sliema Tower Supermarket, St. Julians Valyou, Mellieha Valyou, Naxxar. News agents 8 Till Late Convenience, Airport 8 Till Late Convenience, Mater Dei 8 Till Late Convenience, Paceville Agenda Bookshop, Gozo Ferries. Agenda Bookshop, Pama Supermarket Mosta Agenda Bookshop, Pavi Supermarket Qormi Agenda Bookshop, The Point Sliema Agenda Bookshop, University Campus Msida Agenda Bookshop, Valletta Cauchi’s, Mosta Charlies, Bugibba Expressions, Sliema Fast Forward, Bugibba Metro, San Gwann

Orange Tree, Sliema Squiggles Stationary, Mellieha Trading Post, Sliema WHS, St Julian’s WHS The Plaza, Sliema Delis/hang outs/ fine food and wine shops/popular eateries Abrahams, Gozo Baker Street, Iklin Caffé Cordina, Valletta Donut Factory ,Sliema Donut Factory, St. Pauls Dr. Juice, MIA Dr. Juice, Sliema Dr. Juice ,St. Julians Dr. Juice ,The Point Dr. Juice, Valletta Drift, Ibragg Emma’s kitchen, San Gwann Frensh-Fresh and French, St.Julians Ftira Café, Gzira La Bottega, Deli Valletta La Coccinella, St. Julians. La Maltesa-Mozarella, Co Gzira Lu Lu’s Café, Ibragg Melita gardens, Attard Mint, Sliema Palazzo de Piro, Mdina Phillipe Martinet Fine Wines, Sliema Pure Health Food, Sliema. Pure Smoothie Juice Bar, Sliema Straws, Sliema Rock Salt, St. Julians The Deli by Ladybird Farm, Gzira The Grassy Hopper, Gzira The Grassy Hopper, Valletta The Hub, Pembroke Waffle Bros, Swieqi

Water Biscuit, St Julians Spa’s/ Clinics / Salons / Hotels Amrita, B’Kara Corinthia Palace Hotel & Spa, Attard (also in the rooms) D Salon ,Swieqi Dean Gera Hair Salon, Ibragg Dean Gera Hair Salon, Swieqi Dean Gera Hair Salon, The Point Demajo Dental Clinic Ta’ Xbiex Estetika B’Kara Hair lounge St. Julians Hilton Malta Resort, St. Julians La Falconeria, Valletta Le Meridien Hotel & Spa, St. Julians Lily’s Gallery Sliema Myoka Le Meridien St. Julians Myoka Golden Sands Mellieha Myoka Hilton St. Julians Niumee, Mriehel Persona, Gzira Pro Health, Zebbug Ramla Bay Resort, Mellieha Saint James Hospital, Sliema Saint James Hospital, Attard The Xara Palace, Mdina Toni & Guy Plaza, Sliema Toni & Guy Hilton, St.Julians Other outlets Camilleri Paris Mode, Rabat Camilleri Paris Mode, Sliema Eats and Meats, Sliema Farsonsdirect The Brewery, B’Kara Good Earth Health Food Store, St. Julians Halmann Vella, Lija Il Camino, B’Kara Loft, Naxxar P. Cutajar & Co The Store, San Gwann

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Petrolea, Msida Portughes Launderette, St. Julians Portughes Laundry & Dry Cleaning, B’Kara Portughes Laundry & Dry Cleaning, Tigné Point Portughes, Mriehel TKS - The Kitchen Store, San Gwann TKS - The Kitchen Store, Tigné Point Sliema Other outlets Camilleri Paris Mode, Rabat Camilleri Paris Mode, Sliema Eats and Meats, Sliema Farsonsdirect The Brewery, B’Kara Good Earth Health Food Store, St. Julians Halmann Vella, Lija Il Camino, B’Kara Loft, Naxxar P. Cutajar & Co The Store, San Gwann Petrolea, Msida Portughes Launderette, St. Julians Portughes Laundry & Dry Cleaning, B’Kara Portughes Laundry & Dry Cleaning, Tigné Point Portughes, Mriehel TKS - The Kitchen Store, San Gwann TKS - The Kitchen Store, Tigné Point Sliema And the list keeps growing! Served is also distributed at a number of events organised around Malta and by Mailbox.


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Served Magazine Issue 3  
Served Magazine Issue 3  
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