Fetch Collective Magazine: Spring 2023 by fetch-collective

table of contents A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR My Experience in the Fashion and Beauty Communications Milestone at Syracuse University

FASHION 70s Comeback in 2023 The "Dupe" Takeover Spring Fashion Trends Winter Princess Photoshoot

BEAUTY The False Transparency of "Hot Girls Eating" Beauty Influencers Threatening Individuality

CULTURE Moda en Puerto Rico Campus Favorites

BUSINESS

Fashion: Easy to Copy, Hard to Copyright "The Entrepreneur" Photoshoot 2 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

Editor-in-Chief Sophie Lynch Director of Operations Lindsey Coby Editorial Executive Sophia Anastasakis Creative Executive Norah Nappi Director of Finance Victoria Hoffer Director of Mentorship Program Eleanor Young Business Editor Eleanor Unsworth Culture Editor Anoushka Gopaldas Fashion Editor Lilly Berman Beauty Editor Jessica Zabbia Director of Social Media Emma Siegel Director of Production Christin-Delaine Tetteh Director of Public Relations Annie Eisner Director of Internal Relations Grainne D'Arcy Photographers Aj Abdualziz, Lily Rubenstein Thank you to all of our contributors!

credits 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

"find out who you are and do it on purpose." - Dolly Parton

When I was four years old, I wore an obnoxious pink feather boa

while riding a scooter around town. I treated every street like it was my red carpet. This is “fashion as freedom.” As I grew older, this confidence and carefree lifestyle was tainted, as it is for most middle schoolers. We transition from wearing outfits that don’t match to ones that are identical to the girls around us. At this age, all you want to do is fit in. This is “fashion as safety.” Moving into high school, fashion and beauty became more than clothes and makeup. I learned that fashion and beauty can be a place of self-expression and acceptance, or a way to uphold an intangible standard of beauty. During my junior year, I started a book club at my local library where I mentored girls in 4th and 5th grade through conversations about self-acceptance, inspired by the book Strong is the New Pretty. This is “fashion as a movement.” Fast forward a few years later. I developed the idea of Fetch Collective while sitting at my desk at PR Consulting in New York City. I had the privilege of working there as a PR and Social Media intern specializing in fashion at PRC the spring semester of my junior year at Syracuse University. As the semester was winding down, I reflected on all I learned during my time there. By building my resume, writing cover letters, and interviewing, to landing my job, I learned dedication. By taking courses from 6-9PM after long days of work, I learned hard work and grit. By living in the city with people I had just met, I learned the power of support and friendship. I learned so much that semester, and all I wanted to do was share what I’d learned with the younger generation, as I did in high school. When looking back at my years as an underclassman, I wished I had someone with similar interests to help guide me as a student and future businesswoman — and that’s where I came up with Fetch.

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I wanted to build a creatively career-driven media outlet so students could not only express their interests in fashion and beauty, but also use their passions to power their future careers. I envisioned Fetch to be a launching pad for students to share their knowledge, creativity, and unique perspectives with each other. This is our first and my last print edition. I could not be prouder of the team that I worked with this past year. I can confidently say that Fetch became more than just a publication on campus. Fetch is driven by the power of community; I built friendships with people across grades and majors that I would have never met without this organization. To the future members of Fetch: I am so excited for what is to come for you all. I want you to remember to raise questions, share your “unpopular opinions,” and most importantly, be you in all of the work that you create. A special thank you to Professor Harriet Brown, the Co-Director of the Fashion and Beauty Communications Milestone, for believing in me and making this all possible. Sophia Anastasakis, you have been my right-hand man throughout this entire process. I can’t wait to see how Fetch grows from your leadership as the new Editor-in-Chief. Have I fully found out who I am? We’re still working on that… But I try my best to leave my “purpose” wherever life takes me – in college, this came through Fetch. Thank you all for your support – Keep “building something brand new” in yourself and in the areas around you. Best Wishes,

Sophie Lynch

Founder & Editor-in-Chief

My Experience in the Fashion and Beauty Communications Milestone at Syracuse University By: Sophie Lynch

The Fashion and Beauty Communications Milestone (FBCM) developed my love for fashion and beauty which began as a personal

interest and grew into a professionally driven passion. The Fashion and Beauty Milestone is a sequence of courses designed for students in the College of Visual and Performing Arts and the Newhouse School. When enrolled in the milestone, students are required to take five courses that explore a variety of perspectives in the fashion industry. Courses range from learning about the history of fashion to the hands-on creation of graphic designs for fashion and beauty branding. Students also attend guest speaker lectures and learn from professionals working in the industry. The FBCM wraps up through a final practicum, like a capstone, where students demonstrate what they’ve learned through projects. For my project, I’m presenting my journey in building Fetch Collective and its evolution over the past year. I learned about the FBCM by word-of-mouth before coming to SU. Admittedly, when I was looking for colleges, Syracuse was not at the top of my list. However, after getting accepted into Newhouse and finding out about the milestone program, I decided to go to Syracuse. I joined the FBCM milestone because I wanted to gain professional experience related to the industries I was interested in. Every FBCM class I’ve taken has been my favorite of the semester. Some of my favorite courses were Beauty and Diversity in Fashion Media (COM 348), Interactive Fashion Communications (VIS 517), and Multimedia Beauty Editorial (MND 500). In COM 348, we looked at fashion and beauty through a critical eye to understand the effects of the “American standard of beauty.” We explored the importance of body diversity, individuality, and questioning the status quo . In VIS 517, we analyzed digital marketing and media trends to build our digital portfolios for the fashion and beauty industry. For example, we developed professional paper and email invites for a fashion launch or event of our choice, and utilized Adobe XD and Photoshop to bring our graphics to life. I chose to make my invite about Hood By Airs new launch, “The Prologue.” Throughout MND 500, we pitched short-form, long-form, and news stories. We also pitched podcast and video series ideas for specific magazines after analyzing them. This experience inspired me to start my own fashion and beauty magazine on campus. I would not have been able to accomplish this work without the FBCM. The milestone solidified my professional interests in fashion and beauty, and my passion for bringing people together to create something influential and inspirational. I will be forever grateful for the opportunities the Co-Director of the FBCM, Professor Harriet Brown and this milestone gave me. was able to use my leadership to help others believe in themselves and be proud of their work… and that is all I could’ve asked for out of my college experience.

BUSINESS

THE ENTREPRENEUR

is inspired by the power of amibition, confidence, and self-advocacy.

As young adults, we are often far too afraid to stand out. We choose the comfort of conformity over the freedom of forging our own paths. Once we break through societal expectations and perceptions, we find that the world is full of opportunities to take advantage of. The universe did not create us to become carbon copies of each other; we were born to have individual thoughts, feelings, and ideas. Have the courage to embrace your individuality and share your specialities with others.

The Power of "US"

Entrepreneurs are leaders and listeners. There is no “I” in team. No one has all the answers. We learn from each other. We respect each other. We empower each other. We are stronger together. Communities are powerful. Connection builds confidence.

6 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

We are Loud.

We demand to be heard.

We are Creators & Go-Getters.

We don’t sit around and wait for the world to come to us; we come to the world. To us, there is no "status quo." We object to stereotypes. We defy boundaries. We call out injustices. How?' We embrace our unique experiences and ideas. We love challenges and see them as opportunities to grow.

TRENDSETTERS & TRAILBLAZERS

founders & leaders 7

BUSINESS

the "dupe"

takeover

The Cost of Dupes: How Knock-Off Fashion and TikTok Amazon Storefront Links Affect the Fashion Industry and Economy written by eleanor young design by sophia anastasakis “Cartier Ring Duuuupe,” “Lululemon Dupe,” and “Gucci Duuuupe.” Voiceovers like these continue to fill our TikTok For You Pages, with the hashtag “dupe” reaching an astounding 3.6 billion views on the app. Purchasing a “dupe,” or knock-off version of a designer item, is a cost-effective way to achieve high-end looks without breaking the bank. Media producers leverage the TikTok feed to promote iconic fashion dupes, and their popularity is becoming more apparent with each hashtag.

consumer is put in a difficult position in which they must make the ethical decision between buying more affordable items or sustainably made items. The fashion industry is also a significant employer, providing jobs to millions worldwide. When consumers opt for dupes instead of designer items, they potentially contribute to job loss in the fashion industry. Dupes feed Amazon’s monopoly, as they give Amazon another generous point of control over the consumer market.

owever, with the rise of online marketplaces and social media, “dupes” are starting to overshadow name brands, and the negative impact of these knock-offs on the fashion economy is significant. The most apparent consequence of dupes is the loss of sales for designers. When consumers purchase cheaper knock-off versions of designer items, they take their money away from authentic designers. Thus, the value of the original creator’s brand diminishes. For example, Shein, an international fast-fashion e-commerce platform, copied the design of a Blackowned fashion brand, Elexiay. Elexiay’s unique crochet sweater, handmade in Nigeria and priced at $330, was easily “duped” by Shein, who massproduced the sweater in a remarkably similar color scheme and sold it for $17. Instances like these can be especially devastating for emerging designers who rely on sales to grow their brands. Because Shein merchandise offers a way to “dress for less,” customers jump on board, even though they are likely missing out on quality and sustainability. The • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

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knowledge of the fashion industry and “love for thrifting” contributes to her feeling that she “can’t support the fashion industry’s current dupe trend.” While talking with Gabbi White, she made an interesting point regarding the difference between makeup dupes and fashion dupes. Although they seem to be closely associated, White differentiates the two.

oday, Amazon is discovering opportunities in industries that were previously considered beyond the company’s scope and capabilities – putting companies at risk of being “Amazoned.” Amazon is taking half of each sale from its two million small business merchants, which is devastating for small businesses' growth and profitability. Recently, influencers are leveraging the TikTok platform to direct their fanbase toward their Amazon storefront, which further contributes to the growth of Amazon fashion. Gabbi White, a microinfluencer and Syracuse University student, has amassed over 200,000 followers on TikTok from her thrifting and sustainable fashion content. When speaking with Gabbi about the dupe trend, she explained how “dupe culture” contributed to her sustainable shopping habits.

“Contrary to my negative view on fashion dupes, I have more of a positive outlook on makeup products after watching makeup artists use different products while looking identical,” White said. “Take e.l.f. duping Charlotte Tilbury, for example. $14 versus $49. The products look the exact same. That said makeup dupes, although they similarly affect originality from the creator, are something I stand more in support of.” In this case of duping, e.l.f produced a high-quality product that is cruelty-free and vegan – just like Charlotte Tilbury. Both products are also manufactured in China, so there isn’t a major economical difference in using one over the other. While makeup dupes and fashion knockoffs may offer consumers a less expensive alternative to highend goods, their effects on the respective industries can vary greatly. Fashion dupes can have detrimental effects on the industry and economy at large, while makeup dupes can provide affordable options without sacrificing quality.

"$14 versus $49... The products look the exact same."

“Dupes used to be seen as simply a similar product, and they are now regarded as significantly cheaper than a luxury product.” While Gabbi recognizes the cost advantages of purchasing dupes, her

The fashion industry thrives on creativity, innovation, and originality. While dupes may seem like a harmless way to get designer looks inexpensively, the impact of dupes on the fashion economy and culture diminishes the authenticity of the industry. Although it may be tempting to buy knockoff items to look and feel expensive, it’s important to consider the true cost of these items and their impact on the fashion industry and economy.

FASHION

Campus Jacqueline DiPaolo: "It is so much more than clothing; fashion is empowering, authentic, and freeing. Being able to express my identity and see others do the same through fashion is important.” Oji Anderson: "Incredible self expression! To feel comfortable with your own body as well as flaunt artistic expression.”

Riley Hammond: "A true sense of self expression. It allows for me to be my almost authentic self and show the world a side of me they wouldn’t typically get to see.” -Riley Hammond Ryan Nkongnyu: "An expression of one’s self. It is a creative way of showing the world your style.” Dylan France: "For someone who had to wear a uniform half my life, fashion is both a way to exist comfortably in the clothes of my choice as well as showing the world the things I love.” 10 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

Style

"What does fashion mean to you?"

A conversation with the Student Associaton at Syracuse University

Fashion & Beauty Favorites I have recently been obsessed with the new Rescue Balms by Hero Cosmetics. I wear the Color-Correcting Green Cream almost every day of my life. The formula

is similar to a tinted moisturizer. It gives you a glow, stays on all day, and is buildable if you’re looking for more coverage. On days when I want a more natural makeup look, I’ll apply a thin layer of this cream to reduce facial redness and some concealer for extra coverage on my blemishes. When I’m doing a full-face of makeup, I use this Rescue Balm like a BB cream and layer my other products, like setting powder and bronzer, on top of it. I have been using it for over a month now and it has never made me break out. It’s light, it's glowy, and it’s good for the skin… what more can you ask for? - SL

Yours Truly, Sophie, Norah, Sophia & Lindsey

If you love a natural, effortless look, you need the Saie Slip Tint Tinted Moisturizer. This lightweight, silky formula is perfect for when you want to look put together without wearing a full face of makeup. I’ve truly never gotten more compliments on my skin and makeup until I started using this product. What I love about this tinted moisturizer is it gives my skin a healthy, radiant glow while also providing sheer coverage and SPF protection. Plus, it's made with clean ingredients that are good for your skin, so you can feel good about what you're putting on your face. Pro tip: If you have oily skin like me, set it with translucent powder for a flawless finish. - SA

The Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops Serum by Glow Recipe is a staple in my morning routine. This serum that hydrates and reduces the look of hyperpigmentation for a dewy, reflective glow. I love using it under my makeup and even without any makeup on! - LC

A leather jacket is a timeless piece everyone should have in their closet. It's the kind of piece that never goes out of style and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. You can wear it with jeans and a T-shirt for a casual look or with a dress and heels for a night out. But for me, a leather jacket is more than just a fashion statement. It's a source of empowerment and confidence. Mine is from Quince, but you can find great vegan leather jackets from Zara or Aritzia. - SA

I have a tote bag for every occasion. I have “going out” tote bags, “farmers market” tote bags, gym tote bags, fancy tote bags, and even a rundown tote bag that I use when I don’t want to get the others dirty. Now, this Target tote bag is my most recent purchase… and it’s my favorite. This bag is versatile– I take it to class, bring it to the gym, and would feel comfortable wearing it to work. - SL

My one tried and true beauty product that has remained the same since my sophomore year of high school is the Drybar The Double Shot Round Blow-dryer Brush. This blow-dryer brush has made my hair styling process take 10 minutes and look like a professional blowout with volume every time. If you have short hair, I highly recommend it! - NN

FASHION

THE 70s FASHION COMEBACK

A closer look at the 70s revival and Free People's new Daisy Jones and The Six capsule collection written by alexa fabi design by sophia anastasakis

he fashion world recently experienced a resurgence of 70s fashion, with designers like Michael Kors and Derek Lam 10 Crosby drawing inspiration from Studio 54 with copper-colored fabrics, crushed velvet, fringe, and denim. At New York Fashion Week, moments before the models walked out for Michael Kors, a violin instrumental of Fleetwood Mac’s “Go Your Own Way” began to play. In his collection, Kors paired knit dresses with stunning statement leather belts, bold and colorful fur coats, Farrah Fawcett-inspired fringe, knee-high boots, and eclectic mineral chokers to pay tribute to the bohemian era. Michael Kors was not the only designer channeling urban bohemia. Derek Lam 10 Crosby's Fall 2023 collection was denim-heavy with a retro feel in tones of rich copper and beautiful florals.

the talented and enigmatic Daisy Jones, as they navigate fame, fortune, and personal relationships.

But the revival of the decade goes beyond the runway, with the March release of the tenepisode series Daisy Jones & The Six, which brings new awareness to 70s music culture, sex, drugs, and rock and roll. Daisy Jones & The Six is a best-selling novel by Taylor Jenkins Reid loosely based on the iconic rock band Fleetwood Mac.

On March 13, Free People released a collaboration with the new hit Prime TV show. From vintage-inspired band tees to flowy maxi dresses, the collection is full of free-spirited items that perfectly capture the essence of 70s fashion. The show’s leading actress Riley Keough, who plays Daisy Jones, is the face of the Free People Capsule Collection.

Amazon Prime adapted the book into a TV series with the same name. The show follows the rise and fall of the eponymous band, led by

I had the pleasure of speaking with Libby Strachan, Free People’s Director of Brand

12 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

Marketing. During my interview with Strachan, she explained that the brand has always been associated with the bohemian feel of that time. “Free People has really expanded to include more essentials like tees and jeans, but they all have bohemian detailing, whether it's like seams, buttons, or accents,” Strachan said. “We're seeing a lot of people shopping for flares, and I think people are looking to 70s style for what they're wearing to festivals like Coachella.” The idea for the collection started when Prime Video contacted her about collaborating on the show. According to Strachan, the collab was a natural fit for the brand as costume designer Denise Wingate already featured Free People products in the show's early episodes. “Free People [has] never done a partnership like this before,” Strachan said. “We didn't even design it to be a dedicated collection. We just looked at the products that were already planned for March 2023, and then grouped products that we thought would fit the Daisy Jones vibe.”

nd millions of people across the country are digging this 70s revival. According to Forbes, within its first 24 hours, the Daisy Jones & The Six series hit number one on Amazon Prime Video's Top 10 list in the U.S., and the show's

coinciding debut album Aurora made it to the top spot in the U.S. on iTunes. As 70s-inspired fashion and music gain popularity, some of the most famous artists of the era plan to return to the stage. Among them, Stevie Nicks and Billy Joel are gearing up for their “Two Icons: One Night” national tour, aiming to honor and revive the beloved hits of the time to new and old fans. To understand what’s inspiring this widespread 70s nostalgia, look no further than our current social and political climates. Much like the times of the Nixon presidency, political upheaval and frustration are rising. An NPR study from 2022 found that seven in ten Americans say the country is in crisis, and at risk of failing. Similarly, national events like the Watergate scandal, the Vietnam War, and the oil crisis marked the 70s, creating lasting political and socioeconomic consequences. Today, the COVID-19 pandemic, climate change, the Black Lives Matter movement, and gun violence shape our future and contribute to political polarization. The 70s comeback in fashion, music, and beyond indicates a broader shift in societal values and preferences. It's clear that this revival is not just a passing trend – but a call for a simpler, more authentic time amid the chaos and uncertainty.

Courtesy of Libby Strachan, Free People

FASHION

The Trend of the Tutu

A hybrid of athleisure and streetwear Like the prominent tendu- the distinction of a ballerina’s edged foot to the frivolous tendour- the exact, rigid 4-cm ribbed ribbons on a ballerina’s dress blossom the full distinction of the silhouet-(self).

Motivated by the elegance of traditional ballet, Ballet Core intertwines the elegance of a ballerina with the simplicity of trendy, modern fashion. Ballet Core features slicked-back buns, silky pink mini dresses, and rosy cheeks. 14 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

How to wear it best? Stock up on leggings, wrap sweaters, and leotards. Incorporate a mix of satin, tulle, bows, and ribbons into your everyday basics.

Ballet Core

FASHION

MODA EN PUERTO RICO In conversation with Jean Cintrón, fashion designer and owner of his self-titled company in Puerto Rico written & translated by camila luzio chavez-cabello

The Rise of Jean Cintrón

Jean Cintrón’s passion for design started early. As a child, Cintrón painted, drew, and fell in love with art. At 18, while studying graphic design in San Juan, his best friend gifted him his first sewing machine. He began experimenting with different fabrics and eventually, sewed a jumpsuit as his first piece.

design by sophia anastasakis

recognition when he launched his first line during a fashion show in San Juan Moda. Cintrón quickly gained popularity due to his elegant fabrics, artisanal detailing, and timeless silhouttes.

The Brand’s Style

“It didn’t have a zipper because I didn’t know how to sew that. And instead of spaghetti straps, I used shoe laces!”

Jean Cintrón discussed his brand's unique tone and its evolution over time: “I’ve been in this industry for eight years, and I now realize what types of pieces represent not only my brand – but myself.”

He describes his career path as “natural and organic” since he never envisioned that he would be a designer. He received name

Cintrón explained that he lets his imagination guide him when designing. He dislikes forcing any product into creation. “I change my mind every day. I let everything flow and give it time. I once said I was never going to create a yellow dress, and I have made a yellow dress, so you never know.”

The Inspiration Behind His Work

Cintrón uses mood boards and draws his inspiration from various places. He looks up to Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative director of Valentino, because he has maintained the brand’s central visionary throughout the years. He also claims to get inspiration from everything: “A small occurrence in my personal life or something going around the world,” impacts how he feels when picking out fabrics. Cintrón allows the material to guides his designs, saying, "This allows them to be unique.” 16 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

IMAGES APPROVED BY TEAM, PROVIDED BY THE INSTAGRAM @JEANCINTRON

New York vs. Paris Fashion Week

While a designer may think New York Fashion Week is the mark of success, it isn't Cintrón's end goal. “The American design is very different from mine. It has ready-to-wear pieces and a whole production. I like the idea that my pieces are one-of-a-kind, handmade, that people know that people made it, and it took time to create.”

so happy because this person was comfortable enough to tell me that, which lets me know that I'm doing something right.” For Cintrón, it's difficult to say how fashion in Puerto Rico will change because the island is constantly evolving. Economic factors play a substantial role on the island, the way of life, and the cost of living. Not everyone can afford to buy one of Cintrón’s pieces.

Since many other Latino designers participated in Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, he believes his staple pieces would work better for those events.

“It’s complicated to think about the future of fashion on the island because there are always so many things going on that impact the things we like and what we feel motivated to buy. The island is driven by culture and habit.”

Moda en Puerto Rico/ Fashion in Puerto Rico

Above all, Cintrón protects his peace: "I'm also a human being and need to take care of myself before I take care of my brand.

Cintrón believes that fashion is about the impact it has on an audience and its ability to move people: “Today, I was eating, and a woman I didn’t know tapped my shoulder and said, ‘I love your designs, congratulations!’ I felt

“I try to stay neutral and patient. I won't try to force something that is not meant to happen right now. I know that everything has its timing and whatever is meant to happen, will happen." 17

BEAUTY

Beauty Influencers THREATENING

Individuality written by Remy Baillard I remember when I first started watching beauty influencers like Jaclyn Hill and Kathleen Lights on YouTube to learn how to do my makeup. Jaclyn Hill demonstrated how to create a “full glam” look with heavy coverage and dramatic eye makeup, whereas Kathleen Lights showed how to do a lighter, more glowy makeup routine. Nowadays, “no-makeup makeup” is becoming the standard, and having flawless-looking skin is idealized. With the recent upbringing of beauty influencers on TikTok, makeup looks are becoming less of an art form and instead a way to become more conventionally attractive. I first noticed this when Madison Beer’s “Get Ready With Me” came out with Vogue in early 2021. The influencer heavily promoted Charlotte Tilbury's makeup products in

18 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

design by sophia anastasakis her routine, including the “Flawless Filter” and Beauty Highlighter Wand. Although Charlotte Tilbury was already an established makeup brand, it never experienced viral popularity in the industry. The brand’s revenue rose by over 172 million dollars from the year before the video came out. Many of the video’s viewers, including myself, ran to their nearest Sephora to purchase the products, causing them to sell out rapidly. While growing up with Youtube as a prominent beauty influence, Syracuse University Newhouse Professor and former beauty editor at magazines such as Glamour, Cosmopolitan, and Elle, Erin Reimel said that she didn’t “necessarily have to have everything that the influencers used” and would only try to “mimic the colors that they were using.” She reflected on how today’s beauty influencer culture evolved from the one she remembers: “Now, if you don’t have that Charlotte Tilbury contour wand, what are you doing?” To this day, the Charlotte Tilbury products mentioned in Beer’s video are often sold out, as several other influencers included the brand in their videos due to its name recognition. One of the newest, most influential media personalities contributing to the lack of

individuality in the beauty industry is TikTok star Alix Earle. Alix Earle is a 22-year-old influencer and a college student at the University of Miami with a following of over five million on TikTok. Her “Get Ready With Me” videos generate millions of views each, and a recent GRWM TikTok reached nearly seven million views. Earle has worked with major brands like Tarte and Rare Beauty, estimating around $40,000 -$70,000 per partnership. Tarte’s recent influencer trip to Dubai gained widespread public attention due to Earle’s and other up-and-coming influencers’ presence and its shocking cost of $65,000 per person. What’s unique about Earle and Beer is that their followers conform entire makeup routines to replicate them, which wasn’t common prior. Sites like StyleCaster produce articles on each product of her routine, linking them for easy purchase. While her videos help makeup beginners by providing easy tips, her power can influence those who use her techniques and products to lose their sense of individuality. Professor Reimel asserts, “Everyone has the same technique and face shape now. No one is talking about how to make makeup look good on a round face or how to make it look good on a heart face – because when you’re a single influencer, you don’t have many people to show a variety of looks on.” However, makeup influencers like Nikkie de Jager, known as nikkietutorials, and Golloria George share their unique takes on makeup that stray from the mainstream. Nikkie showcases her artistry in eccentric, creative eye shadows or full-face looks. In one of her most recent TikToks, she crafted a deep, carefully blended eyeshadow look with a dark purple outer eye

and an iridescent green glitter in the center. While her style may not appeal to a large group of people because it is bold and colorful, it’s one-of-a-kind and creative. Similarly, her techniques apply to everyone as she uses varying eye shapes for different looks, including sharp cat-eye looks or a rounder eye shadow tutorials. George, a more recent influencer on TikTok, calls out brands that aren’t as shade-inclusive and shows her makeup routine as a Black woman. She stated: “Tone inclusivity is the bare minimum.” She discovered her passion for calling out exclusive brands and sharing makeup tips for Black women through her personal experiences. Specifically, she shared that when she entered her freshman year of college and struggled to find makeup that would work for her. She thought, “OK, something needs to happen — This is something I can make videos about.” Her videos inspire and give a place for other Black women to learn about makeup techniques and products outside of white women’s videos. For example, in one of her TikTok videos, she provides other Black women with an exclusive makeup tip: Use a black shade as their contour. While many anti-individualist influencers take over the For You Page, it’s important to recognize that makeup isn’t a way to fit a mold or make yourself conventionally attractive. It’s a way to showcase individuality and creative expression. Just because a product or technique is becoming popular, doesn’t mean you must participate in that trend to fit in. Consumers and audiences of beauty influencers should uplift and support creators trying to break the mold, especially since they tend to be overlooked and are not given the same opportunities, followers, and attention.

FASHION

SOMETHING OLD Elevate your look by combining the elegance of pearls with a bold chain.

Pearls and CHAINS

20 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

SOMETHING NEW

Pearls and chains convey high sophistication and raw edginess. So, why not mix and match these styles on one innovative canvas?

FASHION

fashion: easy to copy, hard to copyright written by joy mao

design by sophia anastasakis

ashion blends the line between utility and creativity. Consider the collar: Collars originally served a practical purpose by keeping shirts in place and providing structure. However, designers found ways to make collars not only functional – but chic. Designers across the globe incorporate unique shapes, fabrics, and embellishments to create collars that stand out and make bold statements. A plain blouse can be transformed into a contemporary piece with the addition of a ruffle, unique pattern, or distinctive texture.

reality that fast fashion may attempt to copy their styles, or, that many popular brands may take inspiration from smaller designers' work. Blakely believes that copycat culture motivates designers to strive towards "art" in their designs. Creativity and individuality play an integral role as designers try to innovate artifacts that haven’t been done before and are difficult to recreate. While people like Blakely believe that this dilemma encourages more ingenuity and artistic designs, others disagree. Diane Von Furstenberg, a Belgian fashion designer and longtime advocate for copyright protection in fashion, noted in the Los Angeles Times, “Other artists can own rights, and fashion designers deserve to as well.” The lack of copyright can cause aspiring designers to feel apathy in their creative interests and endeavors.

"Other artists can own rights, and fashion designers deserve to as well."

So what would happen if the collar was copyrighted? Professor Johanna Blakely spoke about the lack of copyright law for American fashion at a TED conference during her presentation, “Lessons from Fashion’s Free Culture.” In her talk, Blakely explained, “They [lawmakers] didn't want a handful of designers owning the seminal building blocks of our clothing. Then everybody else would have to license this cuff or this sleeve because [someone] owns it.” Blakely argues that the lack of copyright in fashion offers several upsides that we benefit from every day, including the democratization of fashion, faster establishment of global trends, and acceleration in creative innovation. This means that designers must adapt to the 22 FETCH COLLECTIVE THE EVOLUTION SPRING 2023

a garment go to the worker. While workers face exploitation, small businesses also fall victim to copycat culture. On Aug. 7, 2021, Bailey Prado, a U.S. handmade clothing brand, called out the fast fashion brand Shein on Instagram. In the post, Prado included side-by-side images of ten original designs and Shein’s dupe versions from their site. The post’s caption said, “It seems like fast fashion companies have no consequences. I almost forgot how horrible it is that they steal from small designers because it happens so often. All I can do is hope to inform people and continue to think about where our clothes come from.” "Starving artists, struggling writers, and independent filmmakers all own the rights to their work. Emerging designers, however, remain vulnerable to knockoff artists who can steal ideas straight off the runway,” Von Furstenberg said. Alexandra Howes, a freshman fashion major at Syracuse University, says the lack of copyright and patent protection discredits her work and contributes to systemic issues in the industry. “Creating original designs takes us designers a lot of creativity and time. Not only are these designs being stolen, but also not being made of high quality,” Howes said. “After a few uses, it will likely be sent to a landfill, which is how fast fashion is a direct contributor to climate change.”

hese companies outsource labor to cheaply mass-produce their copycat items while using unethical labor practices like unsafe conditions, low wages, and long hours. According to a 2019 CNN report, Ethiopian garment workers make only $26 a month despite making clothes for some of the world’s largest clothing brands like H&M, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger. Another CNN report from 2020 found that only 0.6% of profits made from

Many brands avoid piracy by plastering their trademark on garments since brands are protected by trademark law. The famous Coco Chanel “CC” or Louis Vuitton “LV” monograms, Adidas Trefoil, and Nike Swoosh are all examples of trademark protection at work. However, small businesses generally don't have the resources and means of trademark protection as popular brands. Though Alexandra Howes worries about her future design career given this lack of protection, it hasn’t stopped her from designing. Instead, it inspired her to create sustainable designs to improve environmental conditions. “My future goal is to run my own luxury fashion business that is environmentally friendly, using recyclable materials. We can continue to wear luxury fashion, but also take care of the environment and animal friends while doing so.” Ultimately, emerging designers and small businesses must be allowed to thrive and contribute to the field without worrying that someone will steal their ideas. It's up to individuals to support ethical and sustainable fashion practices and make conscious choices about the clothes they wear.

FASHION

WINTER

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PRINCESS PHOTOSHOOT

CULTURE

The False Transparency of "Hot Girls Eating" The Unattainable Beauty Standards Perpetuated by Influencers written by sneha kc

he social media industry and the rise of influencer culture have completely transformed the way we view ourselves and our sense of identity. While the glamorous lifestyle of creators is most appealing to an audience, their physical appearance quickly becomes a point of fixation. This occurs due to the stark homogeneity of beauty standards on social media, where prominent influencers appear in one mold: white and thin. In a viral Jubilee YouTube video titled Which Influencer Makes The Most Money from December, a white plus-size creator remarked,

design by sophia anastasakis “Fashion makes no money unless you’re a thin white woman.” And there’s data to support this. Multiple studies from the last two years found TikTok’s “For You Page” to have a racial and anti-obesity bias, promoting thin and white creators over others. Similarly, in 2020, the Intercept found that under a TikTok moderation policy, the app instructed moderators to suppress uploads from users with specific “flaws.” “Abnormal body shape,” “ugly facial looks,” “obvious beer belly,” “too many wrinkles,” and many other “low quality” traits were listed as some of these undesirable features. So it’s no surprise that TikTok trends like “What I Eat In A Day,” where popular beauty influencers and models share their eating habits, have amassed millions of views on the app. The phenomenon “Hot Girls Eating” was coined by millennial influencer Tinx during her guest appearance on a podcast episode of The Quinn Show. Tinx, a lifestyle content creator who deems herself “TikTok’s older sister,” has a whopping 1.5 million followers on the app. In the podcast episode, she described the trend as videos where an influencer or model either gorges down copious amounts of junk food or pretends to do so and posts it on social media. “I hate the model eating the pizza and Instagramming it. I hate the ‘I’m obsessed with burgers,’” Tinx exclaimed. “I know some of those girls. I know they don’t eat. And I know they take the picture and put [the food] down.” The problem with the seemingly innocent act of sharing their meals online is that many viewers interpret the simultaneous indulgence in junk food and thin body type as contributing

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to an unattainable beauty standard. It’s easy to admire and envy someone who has a “perfect” body despite engaging, or appearing to engage, in the same behaviors as non-dieters. The trend suggests a sense of effortlessness that directly contradicts the workout routines and strict diets they partake in. According to Afton Kapuscinski, a psychologist, and professor at Syracuse University, more than 90% of people with anorexia are women. Additionally, there is about a ten times greater likelihood of women experiencing eating disorders than men. “It is such a massive difference that we have to look at whether there are cultural factors,” Kapuscinski said. One of the most prominent influencers of our time is Bella Hadid – a successful model with over 57.2M Instagram followers, most of which are young women. When quizzed about her favorite snack for i-D Magazine, she answered, “...probably a pizza at least once a day. It’s always a go-to because it always tastes good every time. Oh, Sour Patch Kids.” Hadid’s Instagram account featured several pictures of burgers, pizza, and milkshakes. When confronted with a post of Hadid posting a picture of or eating junk food, many are quick to criticize. For impressionable girls and women, this contradiction often results in a comprehensive analysis of their eating habits. The thought process of, “If she can eat like sh*t and look like that, why can’t I?” repeats endlessly in their minds. Dr. Rebecca Ortiz, an advertising professor at Syracuse University’s Newhouse School, asserts, “If I’m looking for advice on how to craft my diet and I admire this influencer, then it absolutely has the potential to persuade me to [change] something in my life.” However, to others, the anger towards content creators is the problem itself; it is proof of a culture so influencer-obsessed that it leads us to view them as genuine models for our own

behavior. Isabella Del Rey, an advertising student, believes the way forward is not to regulate influencers’ content but rather for audiences to disregard influencers. “I can see how people view it as perpetuating this unrealistic standard,” says Del Rey. “It’s definitely leaning towards harmful, but either way, we shouldn’t over-police what people post – let alone give that much weight toward famous people.” To that point, while influencers often perpetuate body image issues and disordered eating, they are only a symptom of a wider culture obsessed with thinness. “The way retailers model their clothing and the portrayals of women we see on social media – those are symptoms of our culture,” says Kapuscinski. “We can’t say advertising is responsible for these things. If culture hated it, then advertising wouldn’t be successful. And neither would these people with followers.” When raging against this system, we must reject the impulse to put influencers and models on a pedestal, not hold ourselves to their unrealistic lifestyles and bodies. Constant anger over dishonest creators will only lead to more focus on their platforms.

FASHION

ON FILM

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CULTURE

In one word, describe what FETCH means to you: "Creativity" - Allie Shust "Expression" - Tate Abrahamson "Community" - Emma Siegel "Sustainability" - Allan Zheng "Friendship" - Norah Nappi

"Collaboration" - Jessica Zabbia "Passion" - Lilly Berman

"Inspiration" - Tal Ben Ari

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