FEDAN FASHION & ART
OUR SECTIONS
1. Regulars : Editor,s Letter
2. Artistry Unveiled: Delve into the world of art, from contemporary galleries to hidden gems, with interviews and analysis of creative trends.
3. Fashion Narratives: Deep dives into fashion, from the runway to behind the scenes, with interviews and analytical articles.
4. Voices of Visionaries: Essays and opinions from experts, producers and models on the creative processes and philosophy of fashion and art.
5. Artful Escapes: Journeys to unique places where fashion and art meet.
6. Editor’s Picks: Editor’s picks that focus on current and interesting topics in fashion and art.
7. Accent Spotlight : yours moments of inspiration. A section where you will find exclusive jewelry, accessories and art objects from small brands that will add style and personality to your look.
Enjoy your reading...
REGULARS
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EDITOR’S LETTER
ARTISTRY UNVEILED
PICASSO: AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH TIME AND SPACE
MASTERS OF IMPRESSIONISM: IMMERSIVE JOURNEYS AT THE MUSÉE D’ORSAY
GREAT VISIONARIES: ART AND INNOVATION BY BRIGITTE MULHOLLAND
FASHION NARRATIVES
THE STORY OF VERONIKA JEANVIE: MAKING DREAMS COME TRUE
AVANT-GARDE MASTERPIECE: INSPIRATION AND THE FUTURE OF FASHION BY ANSELIN LOUIS
HIGH FASHION IN THE GLAMOUR EPICENTER:
ROBERT ABI NADER’S SHOW AT THE WESTIN PARIS - VEND ÔME
FASHION NARRATIVES
CULTURAL CODES: A JOURNEY THROUGH FASHION AND TRADITION
VOICES OF VISIONARIES
TAPE WEDDING DRESS: CREATIVITY IN EXTREME CONDITIONS
ARTFUL ESCAPES
ECHOES OF PARIS IN ISTANBUL
EDITOR’S PICKS
A SYMPHONY OF SOPHISTICATION: TEA CEREMONIES AT THE RITZ FOR TRUE CONNOISSEURS
ACCENT SPOTLIGHTS
DISCOVER EXCLUSIVE JEWELRY, ACCESSORIES, PARFUM AND ART PIECES FROM SMALL BRANDS THAT ADD STYLE AND INDIVIDUALITY TO YOUR LOOK
Paris — Elegy of Inspiration...
Dear Readers,
Paris is not just a city; it is the heart of global culture, an eternal wellspring of inspiration for artists, designers, and creative individuals of all epochs. It is a place where every street breathes history, and every corner exudes an atmosphere of art and refined elegance. In this magical city, paths of past masters and modern innovators intersect, creating a unique space for creative exploration and self-expression.
Art in Paris thrives at every turn: from grand museums to cozy galleries, from picturesque Seine riverbanks to elegant boulevards. Amidst historical facades and modern art spaces, an infinite diversity of styles and movements unfolds, birthing new ideas and setting trends that will define the cultural landscape for years to come.
In this issue, I invite you to join me on an unforgettable journey through Paris. Feel the pulse of Impressionism through modern multimedia installations at the Orsay Museum. It is not just a gallery but a true time machine that will transport us to the era of Impressionism, where we will encounter Degas, Monet, and Pissarro.
Next, we will visit the Picasso Museum, housed in a beautiful historic building where each room tells its own story. This will be an immersion into the world of one of the greatest artists of all time.
We will peek into Veronique’s showroom, inspired by her fateful encounter with Paco Rabanne, and discover her mission to create Paris Fashion Air. We will converse with a young avant-garde designer about the future of fashion and read interviews with artists about new facets of art.
Paris has always been and remains a city where fashion and art exist in marvelous harmony, inspiring and captivating the imagination. Join me on this exciting journey to discover the magic and charm of the world’s capital.
Best regards,
Marina Gaisler-Fedan Founder and Editor
Marina Gaisler-Fedan Founder and Editor
PICASSO:
AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH
TIME and SPACE
I felt as though I was in a temple of art, where every corner was imbued with the spirit of the great master...
The Picasso Odyssey: Interactive
Art and Artistic Legacy
When I first entered the Picasso Museum in the heart of Paris, I was enveloped by a sense of grandeur and mystery. The high ceilings, spacious halls, and soft lighting created an atmosphere of tranquility and magnificence, highlighting the uniqueness of this place. I felt as though I was in a temple of art, where every corner was imbued with the spirit of the great master.
The Picasso Museum in Paris, located in the historic Marais district, is housed in the Hôtel Salé. This building is itself a masterpiece of 17th-century architecture. Built in 1656 for Pierre Aubert de Fontenay, it features a majestic façade adorned with stucco and carved details reflecting the Baroque style.
Upon stepping inside, I was greeted by a spacious lobby with marble floors and a high ceiling decorated with exquisite frescoes and decorative elements. The light streaming through large windows gently illuminated the interior rooms, creating an ideal atmosphere for contemplating works of art.
Moving from one room to another, I was struck by the harmony and elegance of the interior decor.
The spacious galleries, high ceilings, and light-colored walls created a sense of space and lightness, allowing me to focus on the exhibits. Each room conveyed a sense of history and culture, as well as the influence of the various eras the building had witnessed.
The first gallery that caught my attention was dedicated to the Blue and Rose periods. I slowly moved from one painting to another, feeling the deep melancholy of the Blue period gradually give way to the lighter and more tender hues of the Rose period. As I looked at “The Old Guitarist,” I was overwhelmed by the sadness conveyed by the cold blue tones. But my emotions shifted when I approached “Acrobat and Young Harlequin.” The warm pink hues evoked a sense of lightness and hope, demonstrating the evolution of Picasso’s moods and experiences.
a bridge between cultures, synthesizing ideas and images to convey them in a new, unique way.
As I looked at these pieces, I realized that Picasso didn’t just copy elements of African art but deeply immersed himself in its essence, transforming it and incorporating it into his own work. It was astonishing to see how cultural heritage could be reinterpreted and enriched through creative genius.
The final room, dedicated to the surrealist period and Picasso’s late works, evoked a storm of emotions in me. “The Dream” and “Guernica” stunned me with their boldness and depth. I felt how the artist pushed the boundaries of reality, exploring themes of dreams, the subconscious, and social critique. Every stroke in these paintings was filled with energy and passion, conveying the master’s inner turmoil.
Next, I found myself in a room dedicated to the revolutionary period of Cubism. Works like “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon” and “Three Musicians” amazed me with their boldness and innovation. Standing before these paintings, I felt my mind trying to piece together the fragmented geometric shapes into coherent images. I sensed Picasso, like a magician, unveiling new ways of perceiving reality.
In the room dedicated to the African period and primitivism, I saw how Picasso was inspired by traditional African art. The simplicity and expressiveness of the forms in “Head of a Woman” and “The Dancers” struck me with their depth and symbolism. I felt how the artist, through his works, built
“The Dream” drew me into a dream world where everything seemed unreal yet intensely personal. “Guernica,” with its powerful emotional charge and anti-war message, could not leave anyone indifferent. I stood before this painting, feeling the horror and pain Picasso had poured into it, protesting against the brutality of war.
Although there was no specific section dedicated to fashion in the museum, I couldn’t help but think about how deeply Picasso’s works influenced the fashion world. Exploring his paintings and sculptures, I recalled how famous designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and JeanPaul Gaultier drew inspiration from his work. For instance, Yves Saint Laurent created a collection in 1979 inspired by Picasso’s Cubist works. The geometric patterns and abstract forms characteristic of Cubism were reflected in his garments, making them bold and innovative.
Jean-Paul Gaultier, known for his eccentric and innovative approaches to fashion, often looked to Picasso’s work for inspiration. His collections, filled with Cubist elements, embodied the boldness and avant-garde spirit that were also inherent in Picasso’s creations.
Christian Dior, meanwhile, integrated Cubist elements into his designs, using abstract and geometric forms, highlighting the innovation and boldness in his approach to fashion.
Several designers whose collections were inspired by Picas-
“...I recalled how famous designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and Jean-Paul Gaultier drew inspiration from his work.”
so’s Cubism stood out in the fashion world:
In 1979, Yves Saint Laurent created a collection inspired by Picasso’s works. The Cubist motifs and geometric shapes found in the master’s paintings were reflected in Saint Laurent’s clothing, making this collection one of the most iconic.
Christian Dior’s collections also incorporated elements of Cubism, drawing inspiration from Picasso’s abstract and geometric forms. His works emphasized innovation and boldness in fashion design.
Known for his eccentric and innovative fashion, Gaultier often turned to Picasso’s work for inspiration. His collections, infused with Cubist elements, embodied the boldness and avant-garde spirit of Picasso.
Westwood, known for her rebellious spirit, drew inspiration from Picasso’s works, creating outfits that challenged traditions and stereotypes. Her Cubist-inspired collections highlighted her revolutionary approach to fashion.
As I left the museum, I realized that Picasso was more than just an artist. He was a revolutionary, an innovator, a person whose ideas and creative explorations continue to influence various aspects of culture and art. The exhibition “The Picasso Odyssey: Interactive Art and Artistic Legacy” allowed me to become part of this amazing world, to discover new facets of Picasso’s creativity, and to be inspired by his endless quest for self-expression.
These impressions will stay with me forever, reminding me that true art knows no boundaries or time. Picasso taught me to see the world anew, to find beauty in the most unexpected places, and to express my feelings and thoughts through creativity. His legacy lives on in each of us, inspiring us to new discoveries and achievements.
text
Marina Gaisler-Fedan photos credit
...true art knows no boundaries or time.
MASTERS OF IMPRESSIONISM: IMMERSIVE JOURNEYS AT THE MUSÉE D’ORSAY
The Musée d’Orsay is a true temple of art and culture, located in the heart of Paris on the banks of the majestic Seine. Here, masterpieces by great masters of the 19th and early 20th centuries are collected, transforming this place into a unique space where the past and present merge in harmonious unity. Among the works that can be seen in the museum, special places are held by icons of art such as Vincent van Gogh’s “Starry Night Over the Rhône,” Auguste Renoir’s “Dance at Le Moulin de la Galette,” and Edgar Degas’ “The Ballet Class.” Each of these works represents not just a painting, but an entire world full of beauty, emotions, and history.
Fashion Shows on the Roof of the Orsay Station: Between the closure of the Orsay station for railway traffic and its transformation into a museum, the building was used for various purposes. In 1971, the roof of the Orsay station became a runway for a fashion show, symbolizing the transition from the industrial era to the era of art and fashion. This show drew attention to forgotten architectural wonders and inspired designers to create collections combining industrial aesthetics with refined style. Thus, fashion designers drew inspiration from the station’s architecture, creating unique outfits that combined the elegance of the past with the innovations of the future.
Several renowned designers have drawn inspiration from 19th-century Impressionist art for their fashion collections:
Christian Dior and John Galliano: During John Galliano’s tenure as the
Vincent Van Gogh “ Starlight Night ” , 1889
Virgil Abloh
“Off
-White” cruise collection 2019
Pierre-Auguste
Renoir
“Le Moulin de la Galette” , 1876
“Tanz klasse” Edgar Dega
creative director of Dior, he created collections inspired by the works of Impressionists, especially those of Claude Monet. Galliano used screen printing techniques to transfer illustrations of Impressionist paintings onto fabrics, creating outfits that literally embodied the spirit of Impressionism.
Rodarte and Vincent van Gogh: The designers at Rodarte created a collection inspired by van Gogh’s paintings, particularly his famous “Starry Night.” Their collections included bright colors and textures reminiscent of van Gogh’s vivid and painterly style .
Virgil Abloh and Off-White: Virgil Abloh, founder and creative director of Off-White, used Impressionist art in his collection, incorporating graphic elements inspired by the works of the Impressionists. These elements added unique artistic depth to his fashion creations .
However, my visit to the Musée d’Orsay became truly unforgettable thanks to the opportunity to immerse myself in the past with the help of virtual reality. This innovative technology opened the doors to the world created by the great Impressionists, allowing me not only to see but also to feel
their masterpieces.
Imagine standing in the garden of Giverny, which Claude Monet loved so much. Putting on AR glasses, I found myself in this idyllic corner. Around me, water lilies came to life, sunlight played on the water, changing from dawn to dusk. Every path, every flower is a reflection of Monet’s genius, striving to capture fleeting moments and convey their eternity. I felt the light change throughout the day, creating the very effect that Monet so painstakingly sought to capture in his works. Virtual reality allowed me not just to see this world but to become part of it, to experience it as the artist did. I watched flowers bloom before my eyes, morning mist giving way to golden sunsets, and every element of nature interacting with light and shadow.
Stepping into the rehearsal room of the Paris Opera at the end of the 19th century, I found myself among the graceful ballerinas captured by Edgar Degas. Wearing a VR headset, I saw them warm up, perform their pas, and prepare for their performance. Every movement, every turn was an embodiment of beauty and grace.
I moved around the room, examining every detail of the interior and costumes. Thanks to virtual reality, I felt the tense atmosphere of rehearsal and understood how deeply Degas was interested in ballet. I saw his paintings come to life before my eyes, with light and shadow playing on the faces and figures of the dancers. Every movement, every glance of the ballerinas conveyed the story that Degas so masterfully captured on his canvases.
Plunging into the atmosphere of a Parisian evening at the end of the 19th century, I found myself in Montmartre, where Auguste Renoir captured a joyful ball at Le Moulin de la Galette. Virtual reality transported me to the heart of this lively celebration, where music, laughter, and merriment could be heard. I saw dancing couples, felt the energy and joy that Renoir so skillfully conveyed in his painting.
Music flowed, laughter and conversations intertwined in harmony, light penetrated through the foliage of trees, creating a play of shadows and light. Virtual reality allowed me not just to see the painting but to experience it, to become a participant in this amazing moment, to feel the joy and lightness that reigned in that evening. I watched every movement of the dancers, their emotions, and how light and shadows played on their faces and clothes.
Virtual reality also allowed me to feel the atmosphere of 19th-century Paris. Immersing myself in this virtual world, I could walk through the narrow streets of Montmartre, smell
the fresh bread from bakeries, hear the bells of Notre-Dame, and the bustle of the boulevards. I felt like a part of this amazing city, inhaling its history and culture. This unique opportunity allowed me to better understand and feel the era that inspired masters like Renoir, Degas, and Monet.
The Musée d’Orsay is not just a museum; it is a bridge between the past and the future. Its history as a railway station transformed into a temple of art testifies to the power of human imagination and creativity. The integration of modern technologies such as virtual reality with classical collections opens new horizons of art perception. Each virtual journey is a step into a world where art and life merge into one. Virtual reality allowed me not only to see the masterpieces of the past but also to feel them, to immerse myself in the atmosphere that inspired the great masters. Whether you are a connoisseur of history, art, or technology, the Musée d’Orsay offers a unique journey that captures the senses and inspires the soul.
text Marina Gaisler-Fedan photos credit
GREAT VISIONARIES: ART and INNOVATION by BRIGITTE MULHOLLAND
Gallery of Dreams: Brigitte’s Path to Art
“Her exhibitions became a meeting place for artists, designers, and cultural figures.”
The real turning point came with her work with Anton Kern. For nearly eight years, Brigitte worked side by side with the master, immersing herself in the world of galleries and exhibitions. It was then that she realized she wanted not only to be part of the art world but to create a space where this art could live and breathe.
Her first trip to Paris was a true revelation. The city, full of light and inspiration, captured her heart. She fell in love with the narrow streets of Montmartre, the charm of Marais, and the picturesque views of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Paris became her muse, inspiring her to open her own gallery.
When she finally opened her gallery in Paris, it was the fulfillment of a long-held dream. Every corner of the gallery reflected her vision and passion for art. Her first exhibition was dedicated to Ryan Wilde, a former milliner whose works represented a unique fusion of fashion and art.
Brigitte always strived for her gallery to be a place where modern trends meet classical traditions. She supported artists who experimented with materials and techniques, such as Emma Roche, who “knitted” with paint. These paintings delighted viewers, blurring the boundaries between craft and fine art.
Living in Paris allowed Brigitte to find a balance between her personal and professional life. The city, with its philosophy of “work to live,” gave her the opportunity not only to create but also to enjoy the simple pleasures of life — morning walks to the market, buying a fresh baguette at the bakery, and long meditations in the park.
Brigitte not only opened a gallery but also became an active participant in the cultural life of Paris. Her exhibitions became a meeting place for artists, designers, and cultural figures. She was proud of every collaboration, each filled with trust and mutual respect.
But she wasn’t planning to stop there. Her plans included continued collaboration with the fashion industry, hosting vibrant events, and creating new projects that would continue to amaze and inspire.
Brigitte followed her path in art, leaving a bright mark in the world of galleries. Her story is one of passion, perseverance, and love for the beautiful, showing how one woman could change the world around her by following her dream.
text Marina Gaisler-Fedan photos credit Marina Gaisler-Fedan
THE STORY of Veronika Jeanvie: Making DREAMS Come TRUE
We all believe in miracles as children, but then we grow up and lose that faith amid everyday problems. Fortunately, there are incredibly talented people who show us by their example how to create a life of dreams.
Veronika Jeanvie had a passion for fashion since childhood; she constantly sewed clothes for herself using patterns from magazines. Her dream was to create her own clothing collections and present them at the most prestigious fashion shows in the world. Step by step, she moved towards this goal. Veronika opened her own fashion houses in Kyiv and Moscow and participated in various competitions as a designer.
The path of the fashion designer was thorny, but a real turning point in her career and life came with a meeting with the great designer Paco Rabanne.
She could have met him at the 10/10 designer competition in Kyiv, where he was a judge and she was presenting her collection. However, it didn’t happen. A year later, Veronika was invited to an exhibition of Paco Rabanne’s paintings in Paris. Despite the trip being a signif-
icant effort, she still traveled to the city of love. There, she faced another disappointment the exhibition was canceled because the designer fell ill.
Many would have been discouraged and left, but Veronika believed in miracles and decided to change her reality. One day, while walking in Versailles and visualizing models wearing her dresses, she received a call. Astonishingly, it was a representative of Paco Rabanne inviting her to a ball honoring great French couturiers.
It was a Cinderella story, only French. Veronika had only three hours to get ready and reach her dream destination. Additionally, it started to rain, and traffic jams began. Organizers were already calling and asking where she was, as Paco Rabanne himself wanted to speak with her.
Arriving late, Veronika came to the back entrance and saw Paco’s glowing presence. He kissed her on both cheeks, looking at her with a kind and gentle gaze, without a hint of reproach. “It was my first time seeing him, but I knew he was a very mystical person. Looking at me, he said that we had met in past lives in Egypt. You were the daughter of Nefertiti, and I was a priest,” Veronika Jeanvie shared her first impression.
From then on, the fairy tale became reality. At that moment, relatively unknown in Europe, designer Veronika Jeanvie walked arm in arm with Paco Rabanne up the red carpet. Famous designers and journalists on either side couldn’t understand who this lady was, receiving such an honor. Rabanne had never escorted anyone like that before.
Could such a miraculous event leave anyone indifferent? Hardly. Veronika decided it was time to change her life to step up to a new level and come up with something unique and grand to thank Paco for the opportunity given to so few.
The idea did not come immediately. In 2007, Jeanvie held her first Haute Couture show in Paris, becoming the first Kyiv-based designer to work in three lines of modern fashion: classic, exclusive, and Haute Couture. At this show, the Parisian doll as she was nicknamed in France gained fame throughout Europe.
For five years, she created various bridal collections and presented them at the most renowned shows in the world - in Milan, New York, and Paris.
In 2023, Veronika Jeanvie realized a grand idea she had long envisionedcreating an elite fashion center, Paris Fashion Air. Annually, designers from around the world present their collections and get the chance to meet famous couturiers. The selection is tough, with quality being the main criterion. Collections must amaze and delight the audience, setting trends.
Once, Veronika dreamed of a show in Paris, and now she helps designers, both experienced and emerging, to present their collections, achieve their dreams, and immerse themselves in the fashion atmosphere for two magical days during Paris Fashion Air.
Organizing an event of this scale is a titanic effort, but every time the “Parisian doll” sees the tears of joy from designers after the show, she understands that this is a great mission to help fashion designers make their mark. And it is perhaps the best way to thank the incredible designer Paco Rabanne for once igniting the fashion star of Veronika Jeanvie.
text Mila Chuyko
photos credit Veronika Jeanvie
Scan the QR code to watch
HEART-TO-HEART TALKS
Marina Gaisler-Fedan talks to Veronika Jeanvie
AVANT-GARDE MASTERPIECE: INSPIRATION
AND THE FUTURE
OF FASHION BY Anselin Louis
“My passion for geopolitics is a great tool for understanding the world as a whole”
Anselin Louis: about Couture Debut, Unconventional Materials and Modern Technologies
French designer Anselin Louis chooses to “share the vision and perspective through the eyes of a character” instead of dictating values. His debut couture collection narrates the tale of a Goddess in the guise of Astrea. She is the last one to leave the Eart and turn into a virgin star in the constellation of Virgo. Just as clothes are a vehicle for self-expression, in this collision they mirror the story of a woman held in her inner violence, chained to her anger, wanting to break free from those chains. The collection itself is the first part of a trilogy. Anselin is teasing the upcoming releases, “which will be more instinctive and expressive”, featuring shapes inspired by shells, leaf leather, or animals.
We decided to talk to Anselin and find out firsthand about the creative process, his thoughts about new technologies and what he wants to express through his works.
What unexpected sources of inspiration do you use in your work?
I have many sources of inspiration: from nature to history. The visual idea of it all is essential. More surprisingly, my passion for geopolitics is a great tool for understanding the world as a whole: the people, their histories and tastes. It brings together a vast amount of knowledge about art, literature, cinema. What unconventional materials do you prefer to use and why?
At the moment, I’m particularly fond of what comes from nature, the animal, and the organic. I think that poetically, it’s a beautiful connection with the first men, it allows me to refocus on the primary essence of clothing. In my first collection, for example, this takes the form of Pirarucu fish leather, which gives the real impression of being a mer-
maid, or a corset made entirely from frog leather. These materials are so precious and rare that I believe they should be respected and truly showcased. They invoke in me the most instinctive ideas, like a flash, a vision, an urgency, a sense of survival.
How do you integrate modern technologies into your projects?
I love what’s new, I like to integrate technology with finesse. I’m currently using it for embroidery. For a school project, I created a luminous and opaque fiber optic as a fur. I think that using the latest technology in your work, and not emphasizing it too much
but almost hiding it, is the most luxurious thing in the world. It would be a bit vulgar and heavy to share it too much and expose.
Which technologies have had the most significant impact on your work and how?
Personally, I still love traditional sewing, and my company isn’t quite ready to develop all-new technology yet. But if we’re talking fantasies, 3D printing or the aftermath on fabrics is what interests me most. Unfortunately, I don’t believe in anything too digital for the moment. Nobody goes out in the street with anything non-material, and AI
photo: @anselin.l // Instagram
“I think that using the latest technology in your work, and not emphasizing it too much but almost hiding it, is the most luxurious thing in the world.”
isn’t convincing enough for me in this sector, even though I really like it. Can you tell us about a project where an experimental approach led to unexpected results?
I lived in Florence for 2 years, where I met a lot of very successful people. I was lucky enough to work with Eva Cavalli, who helped me understand the product’s desire, and how to make it my own. This experience abroad gave me the will to free myself from day-today wars that hinder and slow down the creative process. Setting up my own brand and structure wasn’t part of my original plan. This experience led me to this unexpected project, so there’s no room for discouragement.
[Ed: From 2020 to 2022, Anselin was
pursuing a Master’s degree in Art Direction in Florence].
How do you envision the future of design and its impact on society?
I believe that design, to interest and sell, must always match and corresp we ond to the era it’s in. But you can’t plan more than six months in advance. That’s pointless, especially nowadays, when information and social networks are so fast to share and so fast to move. What changes and trends do you think will dominate, and how will they transform our lives?
It all depends on the society we’re building for the future: if it’s built around work, then fashion will follow; if it’s built around representation, more like the past, fashion will follow too;
and finally, if society is moving towards a return to simplicity, then that will follow too.
What emotional or philosophical aspects do you aim to express through your works?
The basis of my work and who I am is a vision of clothing as an accurate and precise means of expressing who we are. The idea is to walk into a room, not say a word and have everyone understand.
How does your art interact with the inner world of the viewer?
The garment created has to resonate with who the person buying or wearing it is, or at any rate with what they want to express. The garment itself is not art, but rather part of the art of living when it achieves this goal. That’s really and simply what I’m trying to achieve. Something that matches what the other person has inside, that’s achieving a kind of perfect luxury.
text Adiya Batyr photos credit Anselin Louis
“The idea is to walk into a room, not say a word and have everyone understand.”
LOUIS
ANSELIN
HIGH FASHION IN THE GLAMOUR EPICENTER: ROBERT ABI NADER’S SHOW AT THE WESTIN PARIS - VENDÔME
A Symphony of Artistry: Elegance and Emotion
by Robert Abi Nader
AThe fusion of natural elements and a constant quest for renewal are the two guiding principles behind Robert Abi Nader’s latest collection, Couture FW 24-25. This collection, brimming with hope, captures the impressionistic emotions that transform the runway into a canvas of dreams.
Inspired by the legendary Dutch artist Vincent van Gogh, Robert Abi Nader reimagines his creative genius through a modern lens, offering a forward-looking perspective. Van Gogh, celebrated for his emotionally charged and vividly colored paintings, provided the foundation for this unique collection of fashion masterpieces. The artist’s ability to convey subtle emotions and deep feelings through his work aligns perfectly with the designer’s mission: to evoke an emotional response from the audience. Each piece is infused with a spectrum of emotions — from anger to tranquility, from hope to optimism and strength. The collection features a range of exquisite items, including dresses, suits, jumpsuits, abayas, and an enchanting wedding gown.
Robert Abi Nader crafts his garments with a personal goal
in mind — to showcase a woman who is both tender and strong, alluring and elegant. His designs embrace the female silhouette, avoiding loose shapes to maintain the uniqueness of each figure, highlighted by refined and daring fabrics. The collection also reflects Van Gogh’s vision of integrating natural elements into fashion. The diverse cuts of the fabrics, especially in trousers, blouses, and jackets, impart an impressionistic touch, harmoniously blending in the details. Corsets made from metal, wood, or plastic adorn several pieces, while leather continues the thematic line from the previous collection.
Van Gogh’s visual language comes alive in a palette inspired by nature. The pieces feature shades of orange and gold, adding a touch of luxury, alongside hues of lavender, grass green, and black. Each color represents an element of nature, imbued with psychological significance: bright tones express joy and devotion, light shades symbolize light and hope, and green embodies resilience and continuity.
One of the most striking pieces in the collection is a luxurious golden dress, symbolizing warmth and
light. This stunning creation is adorned with intricate embroidery, reminiscent of sunlight streaming through the leaves. The corset, featuring elements inspired by Van Gogh’s paintings, embodies his painterly style. The craftsmanship is evident in the delicate patterns on the corset, evoking motifs from “Starry Night” or “Sunflowers.” The fabric hugs the body, accentuating the silhouette with a corset effect, while the flowing skirt adds a touch of grace and lightness. This dress embodies Van Gogh’s philosophy, merging the power of nature with refined elegance, making it an ideal choice for the most significant of occasions.
Another remarkable piece in Robert Abi Nader’s collection is a dress inspired by architectural elements, combining the grace of fashion with the grandeur of architecture. This creation is a true work of art, transforming fabric into a testament to both disciplines. The structured lines and dense fabric resemble majestic buildings, while exquisite embroidery highlights the architectural details, adding a unique charm to the dress.
The corset, with its architectural motifs, recreates the intricate curves and details characteristic of classical structures. Handcrafted patterns on the fabric echo the facades of ancient temples and palaces. The dress closely fits the body, creating an elegant silhouette, while the flowing skirt imparts lightness and sophistication.
This dress encapsulates Robert Abi Nader’s philosophy, blending architectural strength with fashion elegance. Perfect for grand events, it not only adorns but also tells a story, making every woman who wears it feel like a true queen.
The crown jewel of the collection is the ivory-colored wedding dress. Its graceful form and rich golden embroidery create a look that harmoniously balances tradition and modernity. The dress is distinguished by intricate handwork, with every detail thoughtfully designed. Delicate threads of golden embroidery intertwine to create an effect reminiscent of the finest lace, evoking the imagery of a starry night or Van Gogh’s blooming fields.
The dense silk and satin give the dress
an elegant sheen, while the free-flowing silhouette of the skirt allows for smooth movement and grace. The corset, integrated into the upper part of the dress, accentuates the waist, creating a refined and feminine look. The influence of Van Gogh is evident in every detail — from the soft ivory shade to the golden accents, symbolizing light and hope.
This wedding dress embodies the dream of perfection and harmony, merging the romance of the past with the dynamism of the present, making it the ideal choice for the most significant day in every bride’s life.
Fashion and art are inextricably linked, constantly drawing inspiration from each other. Art expresses emotions, ideas, and culture through visual imagery, while fashion transforms these images into wearable creations. In Robert Abi Nader’s collection, this union is particularly evident: the designer not only creates clothing but also translates paintings into textile masterpieces. Like artists, fashion designers use color, form, and texture to convey their unique perspective. Collections like Couture FW 24-25 demonstrate
how fashion can become an extension of art, combining beauty and functionality, emotion, and style into one harmonious whole.
Vincent Van Gogh is one of the most renowned and influential artists in the history of art. His works, filled with emotional depth and a unique vision of the world, continue to inspire not only painters but also fashion designers. Van Gogh was a master at conveying emotions through color and texture, creating paintings that captivate and provoke thought.
His masterpieces, such as “Starry Night,” “Sunflowers,” and “Irises,” have become symbols of artistic genius, capable of capturing the beauty and complexity of human emotions. These paintings, with their vibrant colors and dynamic brushstrokes, inspired Robert Abi Nader to create a collection where every detail is meticulously crafted, and the colors and shapes reflect the mood and emotions that Van Gogh conveyed on canvas.
In the Couture FW 24-25 collection, the designer uses a palette inspired by nature and Van Gogh’s paintings to create looks that not only adorn but also tell a story. Corsets adorned with elements from the paintings, such as the motifs of “Starry Night” or “Sunflowers,” add not only visual appeal but also deep meaning to the dresses. These elements turn clothing into wearable art, making fashion more significant and expressive.
Thus, Van Gogh and his art become not only a source of inspiration but also a mediator in the dialogue between fashion and art, helping designers create collections that combine aesthetics with profound meaning.
As a result, each of Robert Abi Nader’s collections becomes not just a showcase of clothing but a true artistic statement, where every outfit tells a story — a weaving of emotions, culture, and nature. In his work, fashion gains a new dimension, becoming a means of self-expression and deep communication through art. This collection is a vivid example of how fashion and art can come together to create something truly unforgettable and inspiring, reminding us of the timeless beauty and power of creativity.
Marina Gaisler-Fedan photos credit Robert Abi Nader
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CULTURAL CODES:
designer Ahmed Azzam
A JOURNEY THROUGH FASHION AND TRADITION
When we’re young, we often rush to leave the nest and explore the world, collecting knowledge and experiences without realizing that one day, all these pieces will come together in an extraordinary puzzle. Following our hearts, each of us explores the world in our own way. Some do it through music, dancing on stages around the globe and collecting new records, others through contemporary art. For me, it’s all about fashion and cultural codes!
There’s something magical about the messages designers embed in their work for future generations. When we look at the processes unfolding in the world today, it feels like people are becoming more divided. But if you dig deeper, you’ll see it’s really about self-identity, with every culture loudly proclaiming its heritage and traditions.
Several years ago during my trip to Egypt, I met an incredible leather designer
named Ahmed Azzam . Each of his bags feels like it was crafted from secret sketches found in the Library of Alexandria. They are true works of art, crafted by hand with 18K gold. Take the Pillar Clutch, for example— like a magical box, its detailed designs hold the secrets of the pharaohs. The surface is adorned with lotus flower patterns and papyrus columns, possibly inspired by the Luxor Temple, which are believed to hold strong protective powers. Or consider his masterpiece, a pyramid-shaped clutch with a golden cone, featuring ancient Egyptian motifs. Each piece tells the story of a unique country and the craftsmanship that is valued worldwide. Now, let’s travel to Brazil. For years, I’ve been inspired by designer Sylvie Quartara,. Her bags Sy&Vie are also art objects, but they carry different forces — the forces of Latin American nature! As Sylvie herself says, the mission of her brand is to use an-
designer Ahmed Azzam
designer Ahmed Azzam
cient techniques like wood carving and embroidery but in a modern, vibrant context. “I always tell everyone that my love for woodwork comes from my French roots, while my love for bright colors and playful material combinations is my Brazilian side!”
Carved wood — sanded, waxed, or left natural — is carefully combined with materials that both enhance and contrast with the antique technique. For example, her plissé bag balances the roughness of wood with the delicacy of pleated silk, and the Flying Bird bag features a mirrored background. The result is a unique approach to fashion accessories, where they become the centerpiece — wearable art that blends craftsmanship and haute couture.
The Amazônia bag, for instance, celebrates the diversity of the Amazon rainforest through an unusual mix of materials and textures like mirror, leather, wood, moss, and silk embroidery. It’s like a photograph of the Amazon taken
designer Sy&Vie
from a plane, but with a deeper meaning. «The Amazon is the most diverse ecosystem in the world, where millions of living organisms coexist. This bag is alive, telling the story of the Amazon rainforest and its ecosystem. And even the way it’s made! We use leftover wood and velvet, recycling them to create this bag»- says Sylvie
Speaking of upcycling, I must mention the Upcycling Fishing Net Bag. It’s made from nylon fishing nets, which are discarded after a certain period. Sylvie came up with the design by collecting old fishing nets, cleaning them, dyeing them with natural materials, and giving them a second life. The bag serves as a reminder of Brazil’s culture and one of its major industries—fishing. Each bag in the Sy&Vie collection is unique, and you could spend hours admiring these
designer Sy&Vie
designer Sy&Vie
works of art!
Another clutch worth mentioning is the Birds Nest Clutch, handcrafted with a focus on the central part, which resembles a bird’s nest! This part is made from coconut coir, a material often used in furniture production. It’s a significant industry in Brazil, where coconuts are recycled and treated with seawater to soften them while preserving their structure. The outer layer is then processed into a fabric and pressed. Traveling the world, collecting unique stories from creative people and artisans, I constantly find inspiration. It’s this ex-
designer Hian Tjen
posure to different cultures that allows me to create unique images that carry with them the essence of culture and centuries-old traditions. Hian Tjen is a unique designer who has won the hearts of millions with his incredible couture creations. We’ve shared a long friendship — I organized his first show in Milan and, a few years later, his first show in Paris as part of PFA, where he presented the collection The Seed.
The couture collection The Seed is inspired by the feminine yet elegant growth of a seed into a beautiful inflorescence. The collection showcases shades of muted colors and a vari-
ety of craftsmanship. It includes Hian’s famous drapery and embroidery, depicting floral scenes and geometric patterns, the creation of fringes, feathers, fur, and flowers, hand-pleated fabrics, and even hand-painted floral scenes on silk. The collection also features a collaboration with Rinaldy Yunardi, creating accessories that reflect floral motifs interpreted by the designer using gold metal plates.
This is not the first collaboration between Hian Tjen and Indonesia’s most famous jeweler, who is renowned worldwide. Madonna wore his jewelry at the Met Gala in 2018, and Lady Gaga in her music video for “Stupid Love.” This incredible partnership with Hian Tjen resulted in outstanding couture dresses that continue to inspire mil-
text Ruslan Ev photos credit designers
designer Hian Tjen
designer Hian Tjen
designer Hian Tjen
designer Hian Tjen
TAPE WEDDING DRESS: CREATIVITY IN EXTREME
CONDITIONS
As I finished my croissant and sipped on a strong coffee, a slight smile crossed my lips as I recalled the events of the previous evening. It was one of those moments that inevitably become part of the legends of Paris Fashion Week— when everything teeters on the edge, nerves are stretched to their limits, and every backstage decision feels like walking on thin ice. This time, the stars of the show were supposed to be the wedding dresses, and one of them was set to be the crown jewel of the collection. But, as often happens in the world of haute couture, the perfect plan fell apart at the most inconvenient moment.
The lace that was meant to be the centerpiece of the outfit got stuck somewhere between Milan and Paris, leaving the entire team in a state of mild shock: the material was missing, and there was no time to create something new. The dressing room filled with hurried footsteps and muted voices, ready to erupt into panicked screams at any moment. Standing in the midst of this chaos, I observed the unfolding scene with a touch of humor and light irony — my constant companions in this profession.
And then, just when it seemed there was no way out, the designers noticed a roll of gray duct tape in the corner, left behind from some previous repair work. It was so absurd that we couldn’t help but laugh. “Why not?” we thought, and without wasting any time, we got to work.
The model — a girl whose face showed a mix of readiness for anything — displayed one of the key qualities of a good model: the ability to adapt. “Today, you’ll be the star of the evening, if only for the sake of originality!” And with that, we began wrapping her in duct tape, starting from her chest and ending at her heels, as if we were creating a piece of art.
At first, the colleagues exchanged silent glances, not quite understanding
what was happening. But despite the absurdity of the situation, there was something genuinely intriguing about it. The dress turned out, how shall I put it politely — unconventional, daring, and at the same time, a true embodiment of the spirit of Paris Fashion Week, where shocking the audience has long been a matter of honor.
In the end, the show was saved in the same way travelers save their suitcases from falling apart — by securely wrapping them in duct tape. Don’t ask how the model walked, wrapped in tape that restricted her movements as tightly as plastic wrap binds a suitcase full of precious cargo. But when she stepped onto the runway, the room came alive. It wasn’t the reaction you get when everyone is awestruck by the designer’s craftsmanship; it was more a mix of astonishment and admiration for resourcefulness and humor. After all, Paris Fashion Week loves original ideas, even if a duct tape dress skirts the edge of parody. Some critics remarked that such an eccentric approach was worthy of applause in itself, although there were those who sarcastically asked, “Are they planning to try garbage bags next time?” And, by the way, I’m familiar with that story too — but that’s for another time!
After the show, when the tension had subsided and everyone started discussing what they had seen, I recounted this story to my colleagues with an ironic smile. Some jokingly — or perhaps seriously — suggested making the entire next collection out of duct tape. But I reminded them that one very famous brand had already done that. I think you know which one I’m talking about.
This story became one of those that get retold in the backstage chatter and remembered for years to come. A wedding dress, Paris, and duct tape. “An artist capable of turning panic into performance and gray duct tape into a fashion trend from airports and construction sites,” they joked later in the backstage circles.
This style — on the verge of performance art, created literally out of nothing but with a great sense of humor and extraordinary boldness.
And while this duct tape dress may not go down in fashion history, it will certainly be remembered as a bold move that graced the evening and became yet another testament to the fact that Paris Fashion Week is always an unpredictable adventure.
P.S. If you need tips on how to peel duct tape off bare skin — feel free to ask, I’ve got the experience.
With light irony, Olga Smirnova.
EchoEs of Paris in Istanbul
French charm and culture have had a profound impact on many countries, including not only European nations but also those in the East. Even the great sultans of the Ottoman Empire dreamed of experiencing the "mysterious" yet captivating architecture of France. All that was needed was a "bridge" between these great powers, and that bridge was the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire and the son-in-law of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent — Ibrahim Pasha. An ethnic Greek raised in a traditional Christian family, Ibrahim Pasha miraculously rose to become the second most powerful man in the Ottoman state, and over 13 years, he established diplomatic relations across Europe, including with France.
One of the Grand Vizier's first actions was to bring renowned French architects of the time to the Ottoman court to rebuild palaces and important social structures. As a result, French charm and Eastern opulence fused to create something entirely new. One outcome of this collaboration was the Sultan Suleiman's Topkapi Palace, which, even after hundreds of years, continues to delight visitors from around the world with its beauty and luxury. Many French architects and artists participated in the construction of both the palace and its gardens.
Among the significant French artists of that era was Antoine Ignace Melling, a close friend of the Sultan's family and the man responsible for creating the palace's interior with his incredible paintings and frescoes. It all began with an accidental portrait of the Sultan's sister and culminated in a dazzling career as the chief painter at the court. Melling himself admitted many times that France was his home, but the Bosphorus was his place of strength. Years later, he returned to his native Paris and published a book revealing the secrets of life at the palace, sharing everything he saw and felt.
Another place where the grandeur of Ottoman architecture and French luxury intertwine is the Dolmabahçe Palace, built during the reign of Sultan Abdulmejid in the early 18th century. Dolmabahçe became not only a lavish residence for the state's elite but also a place where political destinies were shaped and crucial decisions in human history were made. The goal of the Ottoman architects to introduce Western bohemian chic into the traditional Eastern style surprised no one; rather, the aim was to create something "great" and "visible" to the entire world.
Upon entering the palace, it becomes clear: Rococo and Baroque overwhelm the mind with their magnificence. Seeing oneself reflected in diamonds, the finest porcelain and glass, feeling with your hands the golden beds, the softness of silk and railings— this is an opportunity not granted to everyone.
A Symphony of Sophistication: TEA CEREMONIES AT THE RITZ for True Connoisseurs
Paris — a city where dreams blend seamlessly with reality, where refined luxury manifests in every detail. But even in this city, renowned for its style and elegance, there exists a special place where tradition and modernity converge into a harmonious symphony of taste and sophistication. This place, of course, is the legendary Ritz hotel, which has been offering its guests a unique tea experience for decades. This ritual is not just a meal; it’s an art form, an experience that transports you into a world of supreme aesthetics and pleasure.
The early twentieth century marked the blossoming of culture and art, with Paris becoming the epicenter of this dazzling world. It was during this time, amidst literary geniuses and fashion icons like Ernest Hemingway, Marcel Proust, and Coco Chanel, that the ritual of afternoon tea at The Ritz was born. These celebrities, immersed in luxury and elegance, made tea at The Ritz an integral part of their lifestyle. While fashion trends came and went, this ritual remained steadfast, symbolizing refinement and high status.
At the heart of this ritual were English traditions, which were brought to French soil and enriched with a distinct Parisian charm. Over time, tea at The Ritz evolved into a more complex and layered experience, where every element was meticulously designed, creating a cohesive and unforgettable moment.
Today, The Ritz continues to delight its guests with a tea experience that has preserved the spirit of past eras while embracing contemporary elements. As you enter the bright and spacious tea room, you are enveloped in an atmosphere where every object, every sound, and scent is designed to captivate and enchant. The choice of tea here is an entire ceremony in itself. You are offered to sample rare varieties brought from all corners of the world, from delicate floral notes of Japanese green teas to the rich, slightly smoky tones of Indian Assam.
But tea at The Ritz is not just about the tea. Each tea service is accompanied by exquisite delicacies carefully selected to complement the flavors of each drink. Imagine delicate sandwiches with the finest slices of smoked salmon, melt-in-your-mouth macarons with pistachio cream, and elegant lemon and mint tarts — each bite is a true work of art that enhances and enriches the tea ceremony. Guests are also offered fresh fruits and miniature pastries crafted with such finesse and skill that they appear as tiny sculptures.
The mesmerizing atmosphere of The Ritz, where the nobility of classic design meets modern comfort, leaves an indelible impression. The beautiful crystal chandeliers softly illuminate the room, creating a cozy and comfortable environment. The interior, adorned with rich textiles and antique furniture, transports you to past centuries when every detail of the decor held a special significance. This is a place where time slows down, allowing you to savor every minute, every sip of tea.
From the moment you step in, the hotel staff surrounds you with attention, almost intuitively understanding your desires and preferences. Tea is served with such grace and respect for tradition that you feel part of this great history. Attention to detail and impeccable service are what make tea at The Ritz truly exceptional. Each guest receives individual attention, whether it’s a story about the origins of the selected tea or a recommendation for the perfect dessert pairing.
The Ritz menu is not just a list of dishes; it is a carefully crafted culinary symphony created for true gourmets. Each dish here is the result of meticulous work by chefs who strive to blend traditional recipes with modern culinary trends. From the delicate macarons with pistachio cream to the airy fruit tarts — every dessert is a celebration for the taste buds.
Special attention is given to the selection of cheeses, which are served with extraordinary finesse. Rare varieties, chosen to pair perfectly with tea, provide a logical conclusion to the meal, leaving a gentle aftertaste that will accompany you long after the tea ceremony ends.
Every visit to The Ritz is a unique story filled with elegance and comfort. Be sure to reserve your table in advance to secure a spot with the best view of the hotel’s interior. Whether you prefer morning tea or an evening ritual, you are in for an unforgettable journey into the world of flavors and aromas.
We highly recommend trying the chef’s signature desserts — each of these dishes is unique and created using the finest traditions of French cuisine. The staff is always ready to assist with your selection, suggest something new, or surprise you with an unexpected combination of flavors.
Tea at The Ritz is more than just a tradition; it is an elevated ritual that allows you to touch genuine luxury and refinement. It is an event that will remain in your memory for many years and become one of the brightest impressions of your stay in Paris. We invite you to immerse yourself in an atmosphere of elegance and enjoy the unforgettable moments of tea at the legendary Ritz.
text Marina Gaisler-Fedan photos credit
ceo@jigaroworld.com
jigaroworld.com
Creating Masterpieces Together:
FEDAN FASHION & ART
Fashion designer, art historian, fashion journalist.
DESIGN AND LAYOUT edan
Mila Chuyko
AUTHOR OF THE
ARTICLE
Journalist, TV presenter, public speaking coach, communication expert.
Vita Virulaine
Professional fashion photographer and clothing designer. I attend fashion weeks, organize photo shoots for brands. I have completed many trainings on style and fashion, which gives me a deep understanding of my tasks. I develop designs for clothing brands using artificial intelligence (AI) or drawings. I talked about working as a photographer on one of the Estonian TV channels ETV+. I live in Spain.
Ruslan Ev
AUTHOR OF THE ARTICLE
Fashion producer, whose journey began as a model in Singapore while pursuing his Master’s Degree, eventually landing a role as a features editor for a Hong Kong-based magazine. He later worked as a stylist before moving to Italy to continue his career. After spending 12 years in Italy, Ruslan transitioned into producing runway shows, expanding his work to France and the USA. With over 200 shows under his belt, his collaborations with designers worldwide have been featured in top publications such as Harper’s Bazaar, Madame Figaro, Elle, Numero, Vogue, L’Officiel, and CNN. Now based in Barcelona, Ruslan continues to produce shows around the world and write about designers who significantly contribute to preserving their cultural heritage — a mission he believes is fashion’s most vital message for future generations.
Adiya Batyr
AUTHOR OF THE ARTICLE
Fashion lover (or fashion editor). I’m passionate about exploring the world of fashion, from writing about trends to analyzing the industry’s finances. I love finding where creativity meets technology. Now, I’m excited to be part of an innovative magazine that brings together art and fashion.
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