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september 2017

Brush up on your sauce skills on p. 63

P. 6 3

RegionaL BBQ SauCeS P. 7 1

KingS oF KC BaRBeCue P. 8 0

STL'S FamouS C&K


Dear STL, Over the past four years, the outpouring of support our families have received from the community has given us not only purpose and passion, but also the chance to dream bigger and reach farther. We are humbled by the opportunity to expand the brand, try new concepts, and innovate the way our guests and team interact with each other through loving service, warm memories, and a great meal. STL, we thank you! Not only did you rally behind us for the Kickstarter campaign that started this dream, but you also packed our restaurant day in and day out, allowing us to learn and grow from our humble beginnings. Not every day was easy. We had a tough start and a lot to learn about leadership, menu development, and hospitality. But you stuck with us while we sought to improve each and every day. We are incredibly proud of the strides we’ve made and are excited about the new opportunities on the horizon. We are pleased to announce that two of these opportunities are becoming realities this month. We are not only opening our second Katie’s Pizza & Pasta location in Town and Country, but we are also launching our meal kit delivery company, Vero Pizza & Pasta, nationwide. So, thank you, STL! Both of these opportunities would not have been possible without your continued support. Neither would the nearly 200 jobs you have helped create for our team nor the $120,000.00 and climbing donations you have raised for our Giveback Tuesdays. We promise to continue our tireless pursuit of improving our products, service, culture, and impact on this amazing city. We encourage your feedback, both good and critical. As hard as the critical is to hear, it's what makes us better and keeps us grounded. We’ll see you in Town and Country, or in your home with Vero! From all of us at KPPO 1 & 2 and Vero… thank you and we love you!

Ted & Katie Collier TOWN + COUNTRY

ROCK HILL 9568 M a nc heste r Rd . Roc k h i l l , M O ( 3 14 ) 94 2 - 6 5 5 5

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K AT I ES P I Z Z A A N D PASTA . C O M

septem ber 2 0 1 7

14 173 C l a y to n Rd . C heste r f i el d , M O ( 636 ) 2 2 0 - 32 38

V E R O P I Z Z A A N D PASTA . C O M


SAVE TIME, SAVE MONEY

UrbanChestnut.com #OktoberfestSTL

$30 value for $25 AVAILABLE 8/22 – 9/14

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Hiking

is a great way to get out and discover nature. It© s good for your health, and can be enjoyed by people of all ages and ability levels. „ Wear comfortable shoes, and plan to layer your clothing. „ Bring a camera, binoculars, and field guides. „ Pack water and a light snack, like pecan-orange granola. „ For places to hike near you visit mdc.mo.gov.

Discover

Nature

HIKED IT... LIKED IT! CHECK OUT HIKING OPPORTUNITIES AT THESE LOCAL CONSERVATION AREAS: Busiek State Forest and Wildlife Area Christian county – 18 miles of hiking trails Bethany Falls Trail at Burr Oak Woods Nature Center Jackson county – 1.33 mile hiking trail Engelmann Woods Natural Area Franklin county – 1.5 mile hiking trail Millstream Gardens Conservation Area Madison county – 2 miles of hiking trails Peck Ranch Conservation Area Shannon county – 2.5 mile section of the Ozark Trail Runge Conservation Nature Center Cole county – 2.4 miles of hiking trails Big Creek Conservation Area Adair county – 0.7 mile hiking trail

pecan-orange granola

Makes a generous gallon of granola

8 cups rolled oats 2 cups coarsely chopped pecans 2 cups raw sunflower seeds 1 cup sesame seeds 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup honey ¾ cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon almond extract Juice and zest (chopped) of 4 oranges 2 cups chopped dried fruit Preheat oven to 350ºF. In a large mixing bowl, toss together the oats, nuts, seeds, coconut, and salt. Over low heat, warm the honey and oil in a medium saucepan, stirring until well combined. Remove from heat and stir in almond extract and orange juice. Pour over the dry ingredients and stir well with a wooden spoon. Work the mixture with your hands, if needed, until everything is damp. Spread mixture no deeper than ½ inch on large, rimmed baking sheets. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring several times, until crispy and golden. When the granola has cooled, stir in the zest and dried fruit. Store granola in jars.

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Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com.


Promotion

RESTAURANT WEEK

SEPTEMBER 22-30, 2017

FACEBOOK.COM/EDGLENRESTAURANTWEEK

andria’s counTryside

doc’s sMokehouse Celebrate SAVOR restaurant week at Doc’s Smokehouse & Catering! Enjoy specialties like select St. Louis-style ribs, tender sliced brisket, savory burnt ends or the ever-popular 28-ounce pork steak (so tender you can cut it with a plastic spoon).

Andria’s Countryside has provided a memorable dining experience to the St. Louis area since 1989. They are the first restaurant nationwide licensed to offer USDA Prime Certified Angus Beef. Since 2011, they have proudly served Niman Ranch Certified Angus Beef USDA Prime Natural exclusively – every steak, every time. Head out for SAVOR restaurant week and experience the extraordinary food and attentive service for a memorable dining experience.

Don’t forget to also enjoy hand crafted sides and desserts! 1017 Century Drive, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.656.6060, docssmokehouse.com

7415 IL-143, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.656.0281, andriascountryside.com

Bella Milano

1818 chophouse

For nearly 15 years, Bella Milano has excited its customers with daring dishes and classic Italian cuisine.

Join 1818 Chophouse for another exciting SAVOR restaurant week menu, we’ll be offering Lobster & Shrimp Rolls, Brown Sugar Brined Fried Chicken and New York Strips to name a few. Lunch available Tuesday-Friday 11-4, Dinner TuesdaySaturday 4-cl Sunday Brunch 10-2 Dinner 2-8pm. 1818 Chophouse is Edwardsville’s finest restaurant for steaks & seafood!

Enjoy SAVOR Restaurant Week Specials: For lunch, choose from Chicken Milano, Honey Pecan White Fish or Spaghetti & Meatballs, plus a salad and soft drink for only $10. At Dinner, enjoy a tasting menu of Chicken Milano, Citrus Honey Glazed Salmon, or Smoked Gouda Pasta with soup or salad AND dessert for only $25!

210 S. Buchanan St., Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.307.9300, 1818chophouse.com

1063 S. State Route 157, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.659.2100, bellamilanos.com

cleveland-heaTh

crushed red edwardsville

Find fun food, happy people and great drinks at Cleveland-Heath! During SAVOR restaurant week, choose from gourmet-comfort lunch offerings and dinner entrées.

Edwardsville’s newest fast-casual dining experience is crushing company records so far. Come out and enjoy this SAVOR Restaurant special: Two people 3 course meal $25. You will enjoy 2 mini crafted salads, 1 crafted pizza, and one savory shareable.

Happy hour is Monday to Friday 2:30 to 5:30pm. 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com

222 E. Park St., Edwardsville, Illinois, IL 62025

r e h t o t u Check o

e l l i v s d r Edwa

s t n a r u resta

Teaspoons cafe Start your day off with a visit to Teaspoons Cafe in Edwardsville, Illinois, for a freshly brewed cup of coffee or tea: Choose from nearly 50 black, green white and herbal offerings, including a tea of the month. Pair your drink with a light breakfast sandwich, French toast or bagel in the morning, or stop by at lunch for from-scratch soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps. 2125 IL-157, Edwardsville, IL 62025 618.655.9595, teaspoonscafe.com


FREE

HAL F P O U N D OF SHRIMP

W H E N YO U P U R C H A S E A N E N T R É E ! September – November, enjoy a half pound of peel & eat shrimp.

ONE AMERISTAR BOULEVARD ST. CHARLES, MISSOURI 63301 636.949.7777 | AMERISTAR.COM Exclusions may apply. Cash, credit and mycash® only. Cannot be combined with any other offers or discounts. ©2017 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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september 2017 63 71

pour it on

Discover the regional styles of all-American barbecue sauce.

the kings of kansas city

Explore the storied history, legacy and evolution of KC barbecue .

80 90

from the staff

st. lou legend

The Brantley family carries on a 54-year barbecue tradition.

a piggy’s paradise

At Paradise Locker Meats in Trimble, Missouri, the Fantasma family processes some of the best pork in the country.

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from the PUBLIsher

| 12 |

dIgItaL content

| 14 |

feast tv

Clear the smoke What’s online this month Sweet stuff

dIne

| 18 |

on trend

| 20 |

where we’re dInIng

| 21 |

one on one

| 22 |

one on one

| 24 |

In season

| 25 |

one on one

Everything-bagel seasoning Lost Signal Brewing, Turn, Repeal 18th Bar & Bistro Rabbi Mendel Segal of KC Kosher BBQ Championship Edward Watts of Peaceful Pig BBQ Apples

Travis Parfait and Pamela Melton of Sister Cities Cajun and BBQ

drInk

| 30 |

on trend

| 32 |

where we’re drInkIng

| 33 |

one on one

| 34 |

the mIx

| 35 |

on the sheLf

Cycling cafés Splitlog Coffee Co., Beyond Sweet, Boat Town Brewing Christopher Ciesiel of The Campground Espresso Martini What to drink this month

shoP

| 40 |

shoP here

| 40 |

get thIs gadget

| 42 |

one on one

| 42 |

cULInary LIBrary

| 44 |

shoP here

| 44 |

artIsan ProdUcts

Worts & All

A combination barbecue fork-meat thermometer and a Bluetooth propane-level indicator Don Cary of Yoder Smokers Praise the Lard by Mike and Amy Mills Ad Astra Market Hackett Hot Wings sauce and Heirloom Bottling Co. shrubs and syrups

cook

| 48 |

| 52 |

TABLE OF CONTENTS PHOTO OF BriSkET ANd COvEr PHOTO OF riBS FrOm SALT + SmOkE iN UNivErSiTy CiTy, miSSOUri, (P. 63) By jACkLyN mEyEr

heaLthy aPPetIte

Grilled peach and corn succotash

mystery shoPPer

Khmeli suneli

| 54 |

qUIck fIx

| 56 |

sweet Ideas

Grilled miso-glazed fish Bacon-Cheddar-jalapeño cornbread muffins


Volume 8

| Issue 9 | September 2017

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager

Jennifer Tilman, jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com digital editor

Fort the sweets episode of Feast TV, I stopped by Nathaniel Reid Bakery in Kirkwood, Missouri, to talk with Reid about his return to his roots here in Missouri and his commitment to baking world-class pastries.

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen editorial intern

Huong Truong fact checKer

Deborah Hirsch Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, April Fleming, Natalie Gallagher, Mallory Gnaegy, Hilary Hedges, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Ana Pierce, Matt Seiter, Jenn Tosatto, Jessica Vaughn, Shannon Weber

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Brandon Alms, Zach Bauman, Ettie Berneking, Angela Bond, Julia Calleo, Sherrie Castellano, Jonathan Gayman, William Hess, Aaron Ottis, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Cheryl Waller

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

COnTaCT Us Feast Media, 8811 Ladue Road, Suite D, Ladue, MO 63124 314.475.1244, feastmagazine.com

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at jmoore@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2017 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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publisher’s letter

l

iving here, you’re bound to have had a rack of ribs smothered in a spicy-sweet sauce, or some tender, smoky pulled pork piled high on a soft bun. But there’s so much more to barbecue. I rarely get the chance to write features, but for this issue, I had the opportunity to write two that opened my eyes to the breadth of barbecue culture and history. First, I dove into the evolution of barbecue sauce. Barbecue as a cooking style has been around for centuries. Indigenous people of the Caribbean would construct wooden frames and place all manner of animal parts – alligator, birds, fish – over smoldering coals. When the Spanish arrived, the pigs and cows they brought along with them, naturally, found space on the barbacoa. Fast forward a couple hundred years, and that’s when we see the emergence in the Carolinas of vinegarbased sauces used for basting hogs as they smoked and as “dips.” Turn to p. 63 for a bit of history and recipes for sauces ranging from three Carolina-style dips to the sweet, thick, molasses-y sauces found here. I also was able to take a deep dive into the history of Kansas City barbecue. So many elements perfectly converged in Kansas City to make it the ideal barbecue town. The plentiful and inexpensive meat to be had thanks to the stockyards and an abundance of hardwood trees were two factors that made barbecue a natural fit, but it’s the people who laid the groundwork for the city’s current ‘cue culture who really deserve the credit. Turn to p. 71 to meet Henry Perry, George Gates and others who made barbecue king in KC.

St. Louis boasts a long relationship with barbecue as well. The city’s seen a surge in the number of barbecue joints, most of which are offering updated takes on classic ‘cue, but there are some long-time favorites, like Smoki O’s and C&K Barbecue that still focus on tradition. Managing editor Nancy Stiles had a chance to sit down with the family behind C&K and learn the secrets to their restaurant’s longevity (p. 80). And without great meat, you can’t have great barbecue, so we take you to Trimble, Missouri, to meet the Fantasma family. I had a chance to get inside their processing plant last year when I was on location for Feast TV and I can tell you that the folks at Paradise Locker Meats are committed to delivering the best quality meat possible, while respecting the integrity and welfare of the animals. Paradise supplies some of the best kitchens in the country, and if you make the trek to Trimble, you can meet the Fantasmas personally and peruse their shop, stocked with everything from their award-winning smoked meats to rendered duck fat. Turn to p. 90 for Natalie Gallagher’s feature.

Until next time,

Catherine Neville


09.17

St. Louis family-owned since 1951

julia calleo St. Louis, Photographer “I really loved working on the feature for C&K Barbecue and getting to know the faces behind the food: Daryle Brantley and family. St. Louis has delicious (and well known)  barbecue joints, so being able to photograph and learn about the history and hardships first hand – from a barbecue king himself – was incredibly fascinating. The difficult part was trying to not eat the food before it was photographed; nothing like the smell of freshly smoked and sauced wings to test your self control (or in my case, lack thereof).“ (St. Lou Legend, p. 80)

B i r k ens t ock s ! back-to-school • culinary fashion • the whole family

brandon alms Springfield, Missouri, Photographer “Photographing the beers at Boat Town Brewing was a bit difficult; setting the lights to complement the rich colors of each beer, while avoiding glares on the beer glasses proved a challenge. To add to the complexity, shooting beer while the foam is still visible is also tricky. By the time the third beer was poured and in place, the head of the first beer had almost disappeared. Co-owner Dale Korn was an integral part of the shoot, pouring each beer from tap and positioning it in the composition.” (Where We’re Drinking, p. 32)

Laurie’s shoes 314-961-1642 Glendale - 9916 manChesTer rOad

Laurie’s eTC 636-532-0017 Lauriesshoes.com

ChesTerField mall - (upper level OuTside dillards)

12350 Olive Blvd Creve COeur By T.G.i.Fridays

314-434-4430 BirkensTOCksTl.COm

william hess Kansas City, Photographer “I had such an amazing time working with Feast on the Paradise Locker Meats feature. The Fantasmas were so great to work with. Right off the bat, they were super accommodating. They had just gotten back in town after winning a couple more awards. They were so informative, and made me really appreciate the whole process. It makes me wonder if all the meats I’ve consumed in the past were created with such love and attention to detail. I love all the places Feast sends me. They know how to find the most passionate people who also happen to be the most fun people to work with.” (A Piggy’s Paradise, p. 90)

Voted Best Wine Store Selection

W I N E R Y

More than 1,000 wines

mallory gnaegy St. Louis, Writer “Long before my food-writing career, I was a bike-riding barista, so I’m particularly excited about seeing bike cafés crop up throughout the region. To me, the best part about having a regular bike shop is the trusted relationship you build. There’s already a certain sense of pride and ownership with ‘my bike guy,’ and it only grows when he’s also the man who makes your coffee in the mornings – dream guy, am I right? Plus, many bike shops naturally become hubs for local cycling groups, and it just makes sense that they expand in service to become the pre- and post-ride meeting spots.” (On Trend, p. 30)

Wild Sun Winery¼ Where the outside world ends and serenity begins. For information regarding Weddings/Private Events, email us at info@wildsunwinery.com

wine | spirits Beer | Cheese | gifts

Follow us for our weekly music lineup. 4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 636-797-8686 | www.wildsunwinery.com

1701 Baltimore Ave. Kansas City, MO 64108 info@cellarratwine.com 816-221-9463

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Historic North Main Street, St. Charles, Missouri

KC

Friday, September 15th 4 - 9pm

9/79/10

Saturday, September 16th 11- 9pm

Paris of the Plains CoCktail festival Thu., Sept. 7 to Sun., Sept. 10, times vary; prices vary; location varies; popfestkc.com

The Paris of the Plains Cocktail Festival (POPfest) is a multiday educational and entertainment spectacular highlighting talented Midwest bartenders alongside industry leaders. The annual event includes four days of educational seminars, after-hour jazz parties, a Kilt Krawl in the Crossroads Arts District; a Tiki party and pig roast; and the Midwest Melee, a multicity cocktail smackdown between the region’s top bartending talent.

Sunday, September 17th 11- 5pm KC

9/79/10 Children’s Village & Art for Youth Gallery Saturday, September 16th 11a.m. - 4 p.m. Sunday, September 17th 11a.m. - 4 p.m. Children’s Village and Art for Youth Gallery are Sponsored by Mercy Kids and Alliance Water Resources, Inc.

www.stcharlesmosaics.org Mosaicsartfestival@gmail.com

KC

9/9

KC

9/9

STL

9/99/17

STL

9/10

STL

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Midwest tea festival Sat., Sept. 9, 10am to 4pm and Sun., Sept. 10, 11am to 4pm; $13 to $23, extra fees apply; Ararat Shrine Temple’s Bennet Auditorium, 5100 Ararat Drive, Kansas City; midwestteafest.com

Devoted tea-drinkers and the tea-curious come together for two days at the Midwest Tea Festival in Kansas City. Browse the tea market filled with 30-plus vendors – local merchants as well as vendors from across the Midwest and country. Industry experts will speak on two stages; you can also attend 30-minute tasting cafés throughout both days, for a small additional fee.

indePendenCe unCorked winefest Sat., Sept. 9, 12 to 6pm; $25, general admission, $35 at the door; Bingham-Waggoner Estate, 313 W. Pacific Ave., Independence, Missouri; 913.999.4708; independenceuncorked.com

Now in its fifth year, Independence Uncorked is the one of the largest wine festivals in the state, featuring 25 Missouri wineries, a guest spirits distiller and 2,400 attendees. Held on the historic grounds of the Bingham-Waggoner mansion, the event will also feature art, music, beer, food booths and classes on topics such as wine 101 and how beer impacts the wine industry.

Gardens at sunset Sat., Sept. 9, 5:30 to 8:30pm; $75; Kansas City Community Gardens, 6917 Kensington Ave., Kansas City; 816.931.3877; kccg.org/gardensatsunset

The fifth-annual Gardens at Sunset celebrates locally sourced food from Kansas City chefs, local beer and a silent auction, all set in the Leanna Flandermeyer Beanstalk Children’s Garden. Plus, Kansas City Community Gardens clients share how gardening has improved their lives and community.

st. louis Craft sPirits & CoCktail Celebration Sat., Sept. 9 to Sun., Sept. 17; price varies; location varies; 314.231.2537; facebook.com/stlouiscraftspiritscocktailweek

Between Sept. 9 and 17, Spirits of St. Louis is hosting cocktail highlights at area bars and restaurants as part of its St. Louis Craft Spirits & Cocktail Celebration. It has also teamed up with local distilleries and cocktail bars so you can “drink like a local.” This year will highlight bars in the Cherokee Street district. The celebration kicks off with the sixth-annual Classic Cocktail Party on Sat., Sept. 9 from 6 to 9pm.

the taste in ferGuson Sun., Sept. 10, 3 to 6pm; $25, children under 10 free; Savoy Banquet Center, 119 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, Missouri; thetasteinferguson.com

The Taste in Ferguson features food, beer and wine tastings, cooking demonstrations and live music. The Ferguson Police Department will go head to head with defending cook-off champions, the Ferguson Fire Department. New this year is the option for attendees to vote for their favorite vendors in barbecue, chicken, pizza, international and dessert.

MosaiCs Missouri festival for the arts Fri., Sept. 15 to Sun., Sept. 17, times vary; free; St. Charles Historic District, 301 S. Main St., St. Charles, Missouri; 314.482.5476; stcharlesmosaics.org

This free arts festival is a family-friendly weekend event with activities for everyone – serious art collectors, aspiring artists, and individuals and families who appreciate art – including 100 local, regional and national juried artists exhibiting and selling their art; live entertainment on the Performance Stage; and the opportunity for children to create their own artwork.


9/16

Feast tV TasTe & see: WiLd Game and Whiskey

9/229/23

STL

9/229/24 STL

9/23

STL

9/28

St. Louis; feastmagazine.com/events

As part of Craft Spirits Week, hearty dishes will make the most of the autumn harvest, paired with the best in local craft spirits. The event will feature segments from Feast TV, interviews with local chefs and live cooking demos.

9/2810/1

STELLA ARTOIS CHEF BATTLE ROYALE

science uncorked Sat., Sept. 16, 7 to 10pm; $45 members, $55 nonmembers, $60 at the door, $75 VIP; Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis; 314.289.4400; slsc.org/science-uncorked

The american concepT series

RESTAURANT ROW THE VILLAGE

Fri., Sept. 22 and Sat., Sept. 23; The American, 200 E. 25th St., Kansas City, Missouri; 816.245.7331; theamericankc.com

The next two events in the series will benefit The Trotter Project with a wine tasting on Sept. 22, led by sommelier Robert Houde, a Charlie Trotter alumnus. Then on Sat., Sept. 23, Trotter alumni Debbie Gold and Michael Rotondo are plating a multicourse dinner of elevated dishes.

urban chesTnuT breWinG co.’s okToberfesT Fri., Sept. 22 to Sun., Sept. 24; Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Midtown Brewery & Biergarten, 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis, Missouri; urbanchestnut.com/oktoberfeststl

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. is hosting Oktoberfest at its Midtown brewery and biergarten for a Munich-style celebration with German food, amusements, entertainment, live music and, of course, German beer.

THE MARKETPLACE KIDS’ KITCHEN

Cooking with STEAM, presented by SCOPE

crafT on Tap Sat., Sept. 23, 1 to 5pm; $10 to $50; downtown Clayton, Missouri; 314.727.8100, claytoncraftontap.com

Head to Clayton, Missouri, for the third-annual Craft on Tap gathering of beer nerds and newbies alike. Enjoy brews from more than 30 breweries, live music and tasty eats. General admission is $35 in advance and $40 the day of. VIP tickets are $50, and designated-driver tickets are $10.

HEP C HOPE® MUSIC STAGE

schnucks cooks: GriLLed miso-GLazed fish Thu., Sept. 28, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

In this class you’ll learn how to properly cut vegetables into fine matchsticks. You’ll also learn how to expertly glaze and grill fish. The menu includes featherweight slaw with creamy ginger dressing, steamed brown rice and a lemon-curd parfait for dessert.

KC

CHESTERFIELD

Fri., Sept. 15, 7pm; $15 each or $60 for all five events; Public Media Commons, 3653 Olive St.,

Science Uncorked is a wine-tasting event for your brain: Guests get hands-on with popular ingredients and learn about the chemistry and science behind the winemaking and distilling processes. The event will feature 70-plus wine and spirit tastings, small plates, demonstrations, live music and more.

KC

SEPT 15 - 17

WesTporT okToberfesT ceLebraTion 2017 Thu., Sept. 28 to Sun., Oct. 1; free; various locations; westportkcmo.com

Photo by Steve Truesdell

Photo by Steve Truesdell

The Ultimate Food Experience TasteSTL.com OF

CHESTER

F

IE

Pack your Lederhosen and visit Kansas City’s largest German heritage celebration in the heart of Westport. With an amazing array of authentic local eats, plenty of beer, a stein-holding contest, wiener race, street festival, 5K and more, Oktoberfest is an event not to be missed.

LD •

PA R

TS

STL

The 13th-annual Taste of St. Louis is free to the public and features 30-plus restaurants on Restaurant Row, the Stella Artois Chef Battle Royale, Kids’ Kitchen - Cooking with STEAM, Presented by SCOPE and the Marketplace.

OF ST. LOUIS

KS

AR

9/15

Place Drive, Chesterfield, Missouri; 619.540.5653; tastestl.com

,

R

Inspired Local Food Culture

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&

STL

Fri., Sept. 15 to Sun., Sept. 17, times vary; free; Chesterfield Amphitheater, 631 Veterans

TASTE

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TasTe of sT. Louis

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this month on

feastmagazine.com the feed

PhotograPhy by aPriL FLeming

We’re giving away tickets to Science Uncorked at the Saint Louis Science Center on Sat., Sept. 16! Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.

KC St. Louis favorite Mission Taco Joint has arrived alongside International Tap House in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District, serving Baja-style tacos, burritos, and snacks, plus a tequila- and mezcal-heavy bar program.

-

PhotograPhy by mabeL SUen

PhotograPhy by ettie berneking

Discover the splendors of northern India with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to taste your way through the country with Feast publisher Catherine Neville.

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The immersive 14-day trip, starting Jan. 18, 2018, includes unforgettable culinary experiences, featuring an exploration of Indian street food and trips through local markets in New Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Mumbai; in-depth and expertly guided tours with local English-speaking historians; and accommodation at five-star properties.

sgf Trailer Perk Coffee hit the streets in Springfield, Missouri, last month, serving espresso drinks – including one made with white coffee, which is brewed with very lightly roasted beans – out of a bright, teal trailer.

In late June, The Hill got a brand-new fast-casual restaurant. J. Smugs GastroPit debuted in a former filling station serving barbecue, brisket burgers, pulled-pork poutine and more.

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Full itinerary and registration is available online at limitlessplanettravel.com.


Cool around the Pool

Romanstone Hardscapes elevates any outdoor setting. Find at: Jefferson City | Columbia | Kansas City | Springfield | St. Louis

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Everyone wants a taste of the sweet life, so in this episode, we explore the sugary side of the culinary world. And when you think sweet, you probably automatically think of simple white sugar, but there’s a world of sweet delights beyond the bag of Domino in your pantry. Today, we get behind the scenes with chefs and craftspeople who are coaxing deliciousness from a range of sweet ingredients and making pastries, syrups and even mead, a fermented honey wine.

In Kirkwood, Missouri, pastries, cakes and macarons are skillfully crafted by a team led by acclaimed chef Nathaniel Reid at his eponymous café.

In the kitchen, host Cat Neville uses black walnuts from Hammons Products Co., plus dates and date sugar from The Date Lady to make pinwheel cookies.

Near Hermann, Missouri, Martin Brothers Winery ferments a range of honey to make mead, an ancient beverage that can be made in sweet or dry styles.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

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With a focus on sustainability and great design, IKEA is your destination for affordable, innovative and high-quality kitchen products.

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Kaldi’s Coffee is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.


Uniquely Kansas City Experiences Landmark Boutique Hotel, Curated Packages & Iconic Country Club Plaza Fridays with Chef Joe in the Historic Lobby & Culinary Artistry Daily in Chaz

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm.

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In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 8am and 6:30pm.

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Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Saterdays at noon and Mondays at 12:30pm.

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Open

DAILY

FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER

Savor authentic Italian fare just like “nonna” used to make. From classic favorites like wood-fired Margherita pizza and house-made pasta, to seasonal desserts like slow-churned gelato, Cibare is a little taste of Italy right in St. Louis.

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you don't know jackfruit

Peaceful Pig in Kansas City serves up quality 'cue made without meat on p. 22. photography by zach bauman


this seasoning is

everything Written by Mallory GnaeGy

Move over salt and pepper, there’s a new go-to seasoning in town. Everything seasoning was once just a bagel flavor, but as the name implies, it's good on everything. The mix of poppy seeds, toasted sesame seeds, dried garlic, dried onion and salt is being used to flavor popcorn, carpaccio and even salmon dip. como Gopo COLUMBIA, MO. at gourmet popcorn

company Como Gopo, based in Columbia, Missouri, husband-and-wife owners nick and brooke bartlett created the everything tiger as a nod to b&b bagel Co., one of their favorite local spots, and to the everything bagel, their favorite flavor. the made-fresh-daily popcorn is made with a Cheddar base and an everything-bagel seasoning consisting of the usual black sesame seeds, poppy seeds, garlic, sea salt and dried onion, plus mustard powder. “each kernel is covered in a ton of flavor,” brooke says. “it satisfies, is versatile and something that never gets old.” look for Como Gopo’s new storefront at 526 Court St. in Fulton, Missouri, opening this fall; you can also find everything tiger online, at Plume in Columbia and Winding road Gifts + interiors in California, Missouri. thegopo.com

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Stock Hill KANSAS CITY. executive chef Joe West of Kansas City steakhouse Stock Hill occasionally uses an everything crumble to enhance his dishes; it’s made of yeasty bread dough and a mixture of caramelized onion, poppy seeds, sunflower seeds and sesame seeds, which are crumbled, toasted and finished with butter. Most recently, he used it on a pastrami beef carpaccio special. but it also works its way into appetizers for catering events like smoked salmon canapes with aerated cream cheese. “it’s a familiar flavor, and people find comfort in that,” West says, speaking to its newfound popularity. “People taste it and automatically get it.” For West, the crumble works well because it combines several textures and subtleties incorporating sweet, salty, savory and bitter all at once.

4800 Main St., Ste. G-001, Kansas City, Missouri, stockhillkc.com Photo by anGela bond

Snax GaStrobar ST. LOUIS. Snax Gastrobar sous chef Chris ladley used to get an everything bagel and lox on his way to work every morning. “it’s one of my favorite things in the world,” he says. a recent special at Snax was the everything Salmon dip, a take on his morning routine that he’d been playing around with for some time. he combined smoked salmon, cream cheese and sour cream to make a creamy mousse with everything-bagel seasoning that included fried garlic, shallot, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, caraway and fresh capers, served with flash-fried Companion bakery pretzel-bun slices tossed in everything-bagel seasoning. the special sold out in an hour and a half. “it’s a great combination of flavors because it hits all the major tastes,” ladley says. “and from an emotional point of view, it’s familiar to people.” everything-bagel seasoning is always part of ladley's toolbox, so you can expect the flavors to show up again at Snax.

Photo by aaron ottiS

3500 Watson Road, St. Louis, Missouri, snaxstl.com

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Molly B. - Chardon Polka Band - The Klabberheads

“World Famous” Obenheimer Express

Oompah Fr ee Entainment Tent Contagious-Friday Contag riday That 80’s Band-Saturdayy Super per Jam-Sunday

5K / 10K Run & 1 Mile Rootbeer Walk Kenrick’s Brat Eating Contest Sam Adams Stein Hoisting Wiener Takes All Dachshund Race Antique Car Show Barefoot Winegarden Kinder Garten Activity Area Craft, Food & German Vendors

Off Site Parking & Shuttle


where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

repeaL 18th Bar & Bistro WrItten by Jenny Vergara | photography by angela bond

NORTh KANSAS CITY, MO. the north Kansas City, Missouri,

food-and-drink scene sizzled this summer with the opening of Repeal 18th Bar & Bistro, which brought a gourmet gastropub to the ever-expanding selection of eateries, bars and breweries in the area. edward Collins, the newly retired chief executive officer of burlington Mattress Co., and his daughter, ann Cook, completely remodeled the space, which boasts a sizable outdoor patio, a private upstairs lounge and a full bar and restaurant downstairs. executive chef bryan Sparks offers a menu of small plates like pork belly nachos, scallop ceviche and monkfish corn dogs. the whiskey-focused cocktail list – including classics like a Whiskey Sour with J. rieger & Co. whiskey, and seasonals like the Summer in nKC with builder’s gin, strawberry, lemon and sparkling wine – is the work of bar manager darrell loo.

turn Story and photography by Mabel Suen

ST. LOUIS. yet another new hospitality venture debuted recently to serve the Kranzberg arts Foundation’s umbrella of organizations and beyond. In early May, Turn opened on the first floor of .ZaCK, a four-story, 40,000-square-foot multipurpose venue dedicated to the local performing-arts community. turn has a double meaning, one that references turning over tables in restaurants as well as chef-owner david Kirkland’s days as a dJ. the american-style bistro features breakfast and lunch classics with Kirkland’s own

spin perfected over nearly a decade of serving as Cafe osage’s executive chef – “comfort food that’s a little healthy with a lot of flavor,” he says. the vegetable-forward menu features local purveyors including ozark Forest Mushrooms, baetje Farms, Freshski's Farm and northside Workshop. honey from two area producers is also used for one of Kirkland’s specialties, a biscuit flight. additional favorites include biscuits and gravy; a reuben patty melt; and an arepa with chorizo, over-easy eggs, avocado, Cheddar and chile verde. 3224 Locust St., St. Louis, Missouri, davidkirklandcatering.com/turn

Lost signaL Brewing WrItten by ana pIerCe photography by ettIe berneKIng

SPRINGFIELD, MO. From brisket to pulled pork, barbecue-lovers will find a home at Lost Signal Brewing. a relative newcomer in Springfield, Missouri, lost Signal is primarily known for its rotating selection of small-batch brews. to complement the beer, executive chef and general manager Kymberlee Matney offers a barbecue-focused menu. the selections range from smoked ribs, brisket and pulled pork to poutine topped with smoked brisket gravy and edgewood Creamery cheese curds. other appetizers include tacos filled with pulled pork, chicken or brisket; crispy fried pickles; and loaded barbecue nachos with housemade beer queso fresco.

610 W. College St., Springfield, Missouri, lostsignalbrewing.com

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1825 Buchanan St., North Kansas City, Missouri, repeal18th.com


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rabbi mendel segal

founder, kc kosher bbq championship Written by ettie berneking photography by zach bauman

oVeRLAnD PARK, KS. after first tasting barbecue at a kosher

event nearly eight years ago, rabbi mendel Segal helped launch the annual KC Kosher BBQ Championship, which returns for its sixth year Sept. 10 at the Jewish culture Fest in overland park, kansas. Segal has joined the competitive world of kosher barbecue under the team name rabbi-Q, and has launched his own line of kosher barbecue sauces and dry rubs. he's known for his smoked brisket, wings, chicken, beans; a non-kosher team member cooks pork on separate equipment when required. he won the grand champion title last year at a kosher competition in Dallas, one of approximately 10 around the country; in 2015, his brisket grabbed first place. “For me, that was huge,” Segal says. the kansas city barbeque Society, which officially sanctions the kosher championship, even added a set of kosher rules last year. What are the rules for kosher meat and barbecue? it’s regular barbecue, with an eye on making sure everything used is from a kosher source, and no pork and no dairy. no dairy and meat together in the same product, any animal products have to be processed kosher and utensils that are used, like pots and kettles, are made kosher. one of the most common misconceptions is that to kosherize something means it’s blessed. that’s a great sentiment, but that’s not it. to kosherize something is to burn out any possible residue [that's] not kosher. When were you first introduced to kosher barbecue? once a year, Jack Stack bbQ did a kosher event where they kosherized one of their smokers and got kosher meat. i had never had barbecue before, and it was awesome. What was the reaction to your first kosher barbecue competition? [people] were excited, and numbers prove they loved it. We had 12 teams that first year, and more than 500 people showed up. now we get 20 teams and thousands of people. a lot of people haven’t had the opportunity to try barbecue if they’ve kept kosher. How do you ensure everyone adheres to kosher rules at the contest? We cap the teams at 20 and supply the teams with their smokers, the meat, the knives, the cutting boards – anything that would touch the food. Smokers are very difficult to clean, which is why we provide our own smokers for the competition. everyone is on the same playing field, so no one rolls in with a $20,000 smoker; we’ve all got a Weber Smokey mountain and a regular Weber grill. Do you consider your barbecue more Kansas City- or Texas-style? i’m a combination. i think sauce should be optional, unless it’s on a burnt end. burnt ends always need sauce. Have you found a common ground in traditional competitive barbecue? one of the things that barbecue and kosher have in common is the dedication. it's really part of our lives. vaadkc.org/kckbbq

to be We are honortehd ! s r a e y 0 8 g in t a r celeb Thank y of our c ou to all ustome staff, fa rs m your co ily & friends, It is a p ntinued sup for leasure p serving ort! you!

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edward watts owner, peaceful pig vegan bbq

q&A

Written By Pete Dulin

|

PhotograPhy By zach Bauman

KANSAS CITY. edward Watts introduced a new twist to Kansas city’s world-class barbecue with Peaceful Pig Vegan BBQ, a mobile food cart that debuted June 2. offering meat-free takes on pulled pork – made from jackfruit – and other classic dishes like baked beans and coleslaw, his cart aims to expand the audience for traditional barbecue without sacrificing flavor. the neutral, slightly sweet flavor of jackfruit lends itself well as a meat substitute thanks to its hearty texture, especially after it's smoked and shredded. Peaceful Pig announces its locations on social media (@peaceful_pig); it can also be found at First Fridays in the crossroads arts District and is available for private events.

What inspired Peaceful Pig? Kansas city has the best barbecue in the world. We wanted people who eat a vegan or vegetarian diet to feel they could be part of it. a plant-based diet is way more than kale, carrots and tofu (although we do love these things). there are days when you just want a smoked barbecue sandwich and a healthy helping of homemade coleslaw. What dish was the most challenging to develop? Determining how to properly prepare jackfruit was the most challenging. the preparation takes several steps, and is culminated by smoking the “meat” with applewood. Finding the right balance of moisture, texture and taste took some real patience. creating three from-scratch sauces – original, spicy and sweet mustard – was no walk in the park [either]. What's the response been like? the response from our customers has been overwhelmingly positive. ultimately,

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people are excited about having access to a food genre that is typically reserved for meat-eaters. others are just curious about how vegan barbecue is possible and what it looks like. What's your goal with Peaceful Pig? i wanted to show people that you could do authentic, Kansas city-style barbecue in a cruelty-free manner without sacrificing taste. creating food that’s organic and served in a sustainable manner was also key. our food is served with items made from renewable resources that are biodegradable, compostable or recyclable. the mobile cart allows us to reach people where vegan options are typically nonexistent. nothing ruins an evening out with friends like worrying about where you're going to find vegan cuisine that’s more than a stripped-down salad. What’s next for Peaceful Pig? We’re excited about expanding our menu; we’ve been testing slow-smoked baked beans and burnt ends that are made with a portobello mushroom base. the goal is to keep the menu fresh with the release of small-batch specialty items on an ongoing basis. Who is vegan barbecue for? Peaceful Pig Vegan BBQ is for all walks of life and is devoted to promoting tolerance, inclusiveness and kindness. Whether you’re a lifelong vegan, a meatless monday participant or a devoted carnivore, we would love to serve you! facebook.com/peacefulpigveganbbq


FALL SEASONAL ITEMS

balduccivineyards.com | 636-482-8466 6601 South Highway 94, Augusta, Mo (between Dutzow & Augusta )

BAKED MAPLE PUMPKIN LATTE Real pumpkin, maple syrup, and cinnamon combined with espresso and milk topped with fresh whipped cream and grated nutmeg.

ICED ALMOND CHOCOLATE CHAI Firepot Rooibos Chai served over ice with almond milk and Ghiradelli chocolate.

KALDISCOFFEE.COM Inspired Local Food Culture

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in season: June through november

apples Written by nancy StileS

September is prime apple-picking season. Instead of making pie with the season’s haul, local chefs like to use the fruit in more savory applications to give dishes a bit of sweetness.

The ScoTTiSh ArmS ST. LOUIS. the haggis at The Scottish Arms in St. louis’ central West end neighborhood isn’t exactly traditional. in Scotland, where owner ally nisbet hails from, haggis – the country’s national dish – is made with sheep’s heart, liver and lungs, but U.S. regulations prohibit the importation of sheep lung. For executive chef benjamin adam Guthier, that just makes the Scottish arms’ version more approachable. calf liver, ground lamb and beef are seasoned with brown ale and steel-cut oats; the kitchen adds bread crumbs, forms it into a log and wraps it with very thick-cut hardwood-smoked and honey-cured bacon before it's cooked and cut into medallions. Guthier serves it with clapshot (a purée of mashed potatoes, carrots and rutabaga), Granny Smith apples and an orange-whiskey sauce. the apples are seared at a high temperature and caramelized almost to the point of blistering, which brings the fruit’s sugars to the surface. He then deglazes the pan with triple sec or Gran Gala orange liqueur and straight whiskey, and tops it off with beurre monté and cinnamon sticks. “if the apples are overcooked, it’s not gonna leave the window," he says. "they need to be crunchy, bright and a little caramelized, so all three elements of the plate work together.”

8 S. Sarah St., St. Louis, Missouri, thescottisharms.com

AviAry cAfé SPRINGFIELD, MO. One of the best-selling dinner options at

Aviary Café, which has two locations in Springfield, Missouri, is the poulet normandy. traditionally, this French classic is sautéed chicken with apples, calvados and sauce Normande. at aviary, executive chef Kevin Mueller instead uses a savory apple cream sauce made with Jim beam apple (an apple liqueur made with bourbon), apple cider, béchamel and butter. the airline chicken breast is pan-seared and served with the apple cream sauce and sautéed apples, onions and asparagus. “We chose [poulet normandy] because it’s hard to get a lighter but full-flavored dish,” Mueller says. “the cider and apple whiskey add sweetness to it as well.” the version on the lunch menu features sautéed chicken, apples and onions wrapped in a savory crêpe with pickled-apple slaw and Mueller’s cream sauce. “[the apples] are lighter and have a sweetness to them; it really pairs well with the chicken,” he says. multiple locations, Springfield, Missouri, aviarycafe.com

Bon Bon LawRENcE, kS. at Bon Bon in lawrence, Kansas, the French

onion tater tots are one of the only dishes co-owner Simon bates has kept on the menu since opening last October. “they’ve been there since day one – they’re one of those things we can’t take off, because everyone would be upset,” bates laughs. When he first learned to make classic French onion soup in culinary school, the instructor used applejack liqueur to add underlying sweetness; at bon bon, bates built upon that using fresh ingredients. First, sweet Vidalia onions are caramelized – “low and slow” – on the griddle with butter and salt. When they’re almost halfway caramelized, bates adds julienned red Delicious apples; the mixture is cooked down and cooked with bon bon’s rich beef demi-glace. Meanwhile, bates fries tater tots and tops them with cheese curds from alma creamery in alma, Kansas, while the tots are still warm. Finally, he puts the French onion base in the bowl, tops it with the cheesy tots, adds Gruyère and torches it. “it all melts together like a little tater-tot pie,” he says. 804 Pennsylvania St., Lawrence, Kansas, bonbonlawrence.com

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travis parfait & pamela melton co-owner and executive chef

co-owner, sister cities cajun and bbq Written by Huong truong

THE AMERICAN CONCEPT SERIES PRESENTS EXCLUSIVE CULINARY EVENTS TO BENEFIT

ST. LoUIS. originally located in St. Louis’ Dutchtown neighborhood,

PHotogrAPHy by J. PoLLACk PHotogrAPHy

Sister Cities Cajun and BBQ debuted in June 2013. it quickly became a favorite, known for its mix of Cajun, French and modern American flavors. After a car crashed into the restaurant in January 2016, owners travis Parfait (who also serves as executive chef) and Pamela Melton reopened, but were forced to relocate after another collision just two months later. the new Marine Villa location opened in June, featuring original exposed brick, a dog-friendly patio and an expanded menu that includes Cajun smoked wings and po'boys. What was the biggest challenge with the new move? not moving laterally definitely made it very hard. Had we moved laterally like we planned, we would be able to bring in trained staff. instead, we literally had to try to pull a restaurant out of a construction site as quickly as we could. We just couldn’t remain closed anymore. there’s no backup plan. there’s this. –Travis Parfait We gambled it all! –Pamela Melton How did you two meet? i was working at Quincy Street bistro, bartending and managing. travis lived just up the street and he would come in for lunch, dinner, drinks. We needed a little help in the kitchen. As we talked across the bar, he had extensive knowledge of the industry, especially on the food side. i talked to the owners and said, “you might want to bring this guy on.” And so they did. –P.M. Tell us about your menu. i’m not from St. Louis, and when i moved here [from Louisiana], it was kind of a culture shock to me. She is so St. Louis. i felt like i brought an authentic cuisine here. We have things that represent St. Louis and things that represent southern Louisiana. After about a year, Sister Cities grew into its own identity. there’s the gumbo Slinger, with the slinger being a St. Louis thing. i’ve said this more than once: gumbo is what chili wants to be. Pam was putting gumbo on everything! We did this benefit event, and some kids were selling hot dogs. We bought a couple for fun, and Pam put gumbo on it. i literally remember saying, “i refuse to be known for a gumbo dog! i don’t care how good it is!” –T.P. How has the restaurant impacted your life? it became our life – but it’s a labor of love. When i told my mom, who used to own her own restaurant, that i was opening a Cajun restaurant, she said, “oh, do you know how much work that is? Why don’t you just have a baby? it’s easier.” Sounds like a joke, but it’s arguable! it pays off, though, because of people. i’m reminded now, after just opening the restaurant, of all the familiar faces i’m seeing that used to go to our other location. it’s a constant hugfest in the dining room! –P.M.

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pizza

200 EAST 25TH STREET KANSAS CITY, MO 64108

ssatch made

pasta

salads

desserts

www.FratellisRistorante.com

3550 S. Broadway, St. Louis, Missouri, sistercitiescajun.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Regional RestauRant guide

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4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

Blood & Sand 1500 St. Charles St. St. Louis, MO 314.241.7263 bloodandsandstl.com

Doc’s Smokehouse 1017 Century Drive Edwardsville, IL 618.656.6060 docssmokehouse.com

Great Rivers Tap & Grill 3559-B College Ave. Alton, IL 618.462.1220 greatriverstapandgrill.com

1818 Chophouse 210 S. Buchanan St. 1405 N. Green Mount Road Edwardsville, IL | O’Fallon, IL 618.307.9300 | 618.206.6451 1818chophouse.com

The Blue Owl 6116 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.464.3128 theblueowl.com

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com

The Grille at the Mansion 1680 Mansion Way O’Fallon, IL 618.624.0629 mansionsteakhouse.com

Andria’s Countryside Restaurant 7415 State Route 143 Edwardsville, IL 618.656.0281 andriascountryside.com

Boundary 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7818 boundary-stl.com

Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com

Hidden Lake Winery 10580 Wellen Road Aviston, IL 618.228.9111 hiddenlakewinery.com

Asian Cafe Bar & Grill 1260 Bryan Road O’Fallon, MO 636.272.4429 asiancafebg.com

Byrd & Barrel 3422 S. Jefferson Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.875.9998 byrdandbarrel.com

EdgeWild Bistro & Tap 12316 Olive Blvd. Creve Coeur, MO 314.548.2222 edgewildbistro.com

Jackson Street BrewCo 106 N. Jackson St. Perryville, MO jstreetbrewco.com

Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com

Cafe Cusco 234 E. Commercial St. Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 cafecusco.com

EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery 550 Chesterfield Center Chesterfield, MO 636.532.0550 edgewildwinery.com

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com

Balducci Vineyards 6601 S. Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.482.8466 balduccivineyards.com

Capitalist Pig 2727 S. 12th St. St. Louis, MO 314.772.1180 capitalistpigbbq.com

Endless Summer Winery 11 Grosse Lane Hermann, MO 573.252.2000 endlesssummerwinery.com

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria 9568 Manchester Road 14173 Clayton Road Rock Hill, MO | Town and Country, MO 314.942.6555 katiespizzaandpasta.com

Basso 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7820 basso-stl.com

Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com

Farmers Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com

King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com

Beast Craft BBQ Co. 20 S. Belt W Belleville, IL 618.257.9000 beastcraftbbq.com

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com

Farm to You Market Cafe 5025 Old Highway 100 Washington, MO 844.682.2266 farmtoyoumarket.com

Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard 201 Montelle Drive Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com

Bella Milano multiple locations bellamilanos.com

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

Favazza’s Restaurant 5201 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.772.4454 favazzas.com

LaChance Vineyards 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, MO 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com

Belmont Vineyards 5870 Old Route 66 Leasburg, MO 573.885.7156 belmontvineyards.com

Cork & Barrel Chop House and Spirits 7337 Mexico Road St. Peters, MO 636.387.7030 corkandbarrel.com

Fox & Hounds Tavern 6300 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.647.7300 cheshirestl.com

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com

Delta Queen Port of Call 6035 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.223.7170 dqportofcall.com

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com

Martin Brothers Winery 1623 Old Iron Road Hermann, MO 573.486.0236 martinbrotherswinery.com

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Mary Jane Burgers & Brew 102 N. Jackson St. Perryville, MO 573.547.6279 maryjaneburgers.com

The Schlafly Tap Room and Schlafly Bottleworks 2100LocustSt.|7260SouthwestAve. St. Louis, MO | Maplewood, MO 314.241.2337 schlafly.com

Molly Darcys 26 N. Meramec Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.863.8400 mollydarcyspub.com

The Silly Goose 5501 Locust St. Augusta, MO 636.482.4667 sillygoosemo.com

Mount Pleasant Estates 5634 High St. Augusta, MO 636.482.9463 mountpleasant.com

Square One Brewery and Distillery 1727 Park Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.231.2537 squareonebrewery.com

The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com

St. James Winery 540 State Route B St. James, MO 800.280.9463 stjameswinery.com

Noboleis Vineyards 100 Hemsath Road Augusta, MO 636.482.4500 noboleisvineyards.com

Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com

One 19 North Tapas and Wine Bar 119 N. Kirkwood Road Kirkwood, MO 314.821.4119 one19north.com

Summit Hickory Pit BBQ 1012 SE Blue Parkway Lee’s Summit, MO 816.246.4434 thesummithickorypitbbq.com

Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com

Teaspoons Cafe 2125 S. Route 157 Edwardsville, IL 618.655.9595 teaspoonscafe.com

Porter’s Steakhouse 1000 Eastport Plaza Drive Collinsville, IL 618.345.2400 porterscollinsville.com

Three Sixty 1 S. Broadway St. Louis, MO 314.241.8439 360-stl.com

Q39 1000 W. 39th St. 11051 Antioch Road Kansas City, MO | Overland Park, KS 816.255.3753 | 913.951.4500 q39kc.com

Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com

The Rack House Kitchen Wine Whiskey 5065 State Highway N Cottleville, MO 636.244.0574 therackhousekww.com

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave. 4465 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.222.0143 urbanchestnut.com

Ramon’s El Dorado 1711 St. Louis Road Collinsville, IL 618.344.6435 ramonseldorado.net

Wild Sun Winery 4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com

We encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments as proud supporters of Feast Magazine. From fine dining to fast casual to wineries and breweries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!

BY REGION: St. Louis St. Charles County Kansas City Columbia, Missouri Springfield, Missouri Mid-Missouri and Southern Missouri Southern Illinois Winery and Vineyard Brewery Stay tuned for winery profiles in the October issue of Feast!

Visit

Feastmagazine.com to view the regional restaurant guide and read more about some of the places listed here.

Stay up to date with the latest restaurant news by connecting with Feast: feastmag

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toast of the town

Boat Town Brewing is putting out creative craft beers in Phillipsburg, Missouri, on p. 32. photography by brandon alms


bikes & brews WRITTEn By MAlloRy GnAEGy

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PHoToGRAPHy By ZACH BAUMAn

Most early-morning riders need a shot of caffeine to keep the wheels spinning, so it’s only natural that there are increasingly more cycling cafés popping up, providing cyclists whatever fix they might need: beer, coffee or a tuneup. Repair, retail and rental shops have combined with coffee shops (and bars!) to provide everything hobbyists and pros alike need under one roof.

CurSed BikeS & Coffee UNIVERSITY CITY, MO. Jeff Gerhardt is an

architect-turned-bike mechanic who has been designing and building custom bike frames for the past six years. He and his wife, Erin, enjoy a great cup of coffee; Cursed Bikes & Coffee in University City, Missouri, is a culmination of their two passions. The neighborhood coffee bar offers full maintenance and bike repair, retail and rentals for “hard-core and casual riders,” Gerhardt says. He thinks the concept works because “cyclists love fueling up on caffeine and carbs.” And in addition to a craft-coffee menu to help cyclists gear up for an early-morning ride, the muffins, coffee cakes, cookies and donuts Cursed sells are sourced from Dottie’s Flour Shop and make for great carb-loading. “We don’t care if your bike is expensive, new or anything fancy. We don’t care if you know nothing about bikes,” Gerhardt says. “We just want to help get more people out there, enjoying the great outdoors and the simple joy of riding a bike.” 7401 Pershing Ave., University City, Missouri, facebook.com/cursedbikes

SpokeS Café and CyClery KANSAS CITY. Spokes Café and Cyclery managing partner

Dan Walsh thinks the popularity of cyclery-shop cafés and breweries has been emerging as a means to keep the lights on for bike-retail stores. “It’s hard to be an independent bike shop in this era of internet shopping and the like,” he explains. Walsh, a recreational cyclist, and one of his business partners, Ryan Adams, a competitive cyclist, opened Spokes in downtown Kansas City in May; they're also founding board members at BikeWalkKC, which brought the BikeShare program to town, among other biking and pedestrian advocacy initiatives. They decided to open Spokes as a place they wanted to hang out. The shop, with a full kitchen, espresso bar, more than 35 beers on tap and in the cooler, plus a full bar, makes it easy for visitors to fuel up while they get their bikes tuned up. With a sandwich menu featuring gourmet grilled cheese, meatloaf melts and Southwest chicken melts, it’s friendly to beginner cyclists and non-bikers alike. 1200 Washington St., Suite B, Kansas City, Missouri, spokeskc.com

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Velo+ LENEXA, KS. Velo+ owner Vincent Rodriguez (pictured

left) naturally found his current career: As a kid, he grew up cycling, and as an adult, he spent 18 years working for Starbucks. Velo+ combines the coffee and cycling lifestyle in a new way: Instead of cups of coffee, the shop sells bags of beans. Rodriguez roasts small-batch coffee in the same space he offers full-service repair and maintenance. On top of that, he just started making chocolate. “It’s a lifestyle,” he says of the growing trend toward cyclery cafés. “I do believe people want quality, want to be healthy and [be] outside.” His shop is built on the “journey, destination and social experience” of cycling, he says. It’s all in the details with custom bike frames; coffees like #Black, a dark-roast blend of Guatemalan coffee beans, and a breakfast blend for Shatto Milk Company combining Colombian and Brazilian beans; and unique, handmade chocolate bars. He also encourages others to embrace the lifestyle by offering classes in both roasting basics and cycling maintenance. After opening in 2013, he now has a bike shop in Iola, Kansas, and a repair shop and taproom in North Kansas City, Missouri. multiple locations, velopluskc.com

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops. Splitlog Coffee Co. Written by Jenny Vergara pHotograpHy by angela bond

KANSAS CITY, KS. Splitlog Coffee Co. is the newest coffee shop to open in Kansas City, Kansas. located across the street from slap’s bbQ on strawberry Hill, the eye-catching gray brick building offers a unique view of the downtown Kansas City, missouri, skyline. the name pays tribute to the neighborhood’s history: the area was originally known as splitlog Hill, after mathias splitlog, a wealthy native american mill owner who built a mansion there in 1870. splitlog Coffee Co. serves locally roasted messenger Coffee Co. coffee and espresso drinks such as

lattes, cappuccinos and americanos, along with pour overs and toddy coffee. sample one of the tempting treats in the pastry case supplied by local sunFlour bakery or get a delicious donut from Hana’s, located just down the street. manager simeon bricker brings eight years of experience in the coffee business; he’s also a u.s. latte art Champion. His level of artistry with milk foam will have you scrambling for instagram. With both a drive-thru window and counter service, consider the Hit and run: a shot of espresso to enjoy now and a 12-ounce to-go coffee to take with you. 548 Central Ave., Kansas City, Kansas, facebook.com/splitlogcoffeeco

Beyond Sweet story and pHotograpHy by Huong truong

ST. LOUIS. instagram-ready milkshakes already have customers waiting in line at Beyond Sweet, a new spot in the West end neighborhood of st. louis. the large, over-the-top shakes are garnished with extravagant toppings. Customers can build their own shakes, choosing from 20-plus toppings, or opt for something on beyond sweet's signature menu. one of the shop's most popular shakes is the new yorker, a strawberry cheesecake milkshake topped with a whole slice of new york-style cheesecake, whipped cream and strawberry drizzle. the milkshakes are huge, inspired by the giant ones served at places like black tap Craft burgers & beer in new york City. “i had seen [the milkshakes] in new york at a restaurant and decided to channel that and bring it here,” says owner dallas Holland. she's excited to soon be able to share her milkshakes with a wider audience by going mobile with a food truck, beyond sweet to go, and a pedi-cab, beyond sweet pedi-Cab, this fall.

5901 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, facebook.com/beyondsweettm

Boat town Brewing Written by Huong truong

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pHotograpHy by brandon alms

PHILLIPSBURG, MO. bart guyer and dale Korn have been homebrewers for the last 10 years,

constantly trying to best each other in their craft. luckily for beer fans, the two friends decided to team up and share their brews with the community. in 2014, guyer and Korn opened Boat Town Brewing in phillipsburg, missouri, southwest of lebanon, in a former diesel shop and auction house. enjoy boat town’s strongest brew, perficle, a chocolatey imperial stout, in the industrial-meets-ozarks taproom and brewery, or take friends outside for a glass of the easy-drinking, slightly malty danny down the road and a game of cornhole in the backyard. From mid-summer through the fall, the duo will have a belgian wit brewed with coriander and orange peels on tap. on Fridays and saturdays, food trucks can be found on premise to pair delicious food with boat town’s beers. Boat Town Brewing, 18146 Campground Road, Phillipsburg, Missouri, boattownbrewing.com

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christopher ciesiel cco-owner, the campground WRITTEN By APRIl FlEmING

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PhOTOGRAPhy By zACh BAUmAN

KAnSAS CITY. Christopher

Ciesiel and his wife, Cristin, have been working to open their specialty beer and craft-cocktail bar, The Campground, for more than two years. The bar was inspired by the couple’s backyard-shed cocktail parties, which friends dubbed The Campground. After a successful Kickstarter campaign, original plans for a space at 6 Westport Road fell through when it became apparent that modifications due to city-mandated requirements, like ADA-compliant bathrooms, would make the bar exceedingly small. The Ciesiels started the process over entirely just next door at 8 Westport Road. Finally, the much-anticipated bar is set to open for business before the end of the year. How are your new plans for The Campground coming along? We want to keep that same kind of lodge feel as in our backyard space, but with a more refined palate. Our concept will still be two-fold: We’ll separate out the front third of our space and turn it into a little general store, with the bar in the back. Up front there will be a soda fountain with homemade sodas on draft, seasonal tonics, sarsaparillas and grab-and-go foods. The light, vegetableforward food will be geared toward or influenced by camping, hiking and foraging. The back area will be pretty intimate; we’ll have around 10 to 12 stools at the bar, and probably seating for another 30 or so. It will be pretty sleek – lots of dark woods and light stone. We’re going to frown upon standing, because we’d like everyone to feel comfortable and not rushed. We also have a patio in back that seats about 10 to 15. Tell us about the cocktail menu. I take sort of a backwards approach to [cocktails]: If I find it [visually] appealing, I research to find out how it got that way. We taste with our eyes first, you know. The cocktail list will be small but pretty awesome, using things like fortified wines – vermouths, sherrys – just to keep things light. We won’t have a bottle of every single spirit out there. I’m really big into gin; I think it will be a big focus for us, kind of light. People can also order off the menu and we can make whatever they want. We’re [just] as excited about beer. A big part of this project is that my wife and I went on our honeymoon in Europe. It was basically a beer trip to Belgium, Germany and Prague. Now that we have a two year old, we can’t do anything close to that. We loved the amazing beer bars and the level of service they gave. So we’ll be heavy on saisons and lagers, super crisp and refreshing beers. What can customers expect? One of the things that guests in our home backyard would often say is that they felt like they were stepping into a Wes Anderson film, like they weren’t in Kansas City. When we go to a new spot, whether it’s here or on a trip, walking into that space – that first exposure to it, the smell, the temperature, the light, the music, the overall feel – we enjoy it being a little disorienting. That’s kind of what we're going for with this. We’re going to play on the design of our backyard shed, but it won’t be quite as campy. We just hope people enjoy it. 8 Westport Road, Kansas City, Missouri, thecampgroundkc.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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StoRy and REcIpES by Matt SEItER photoGRaphy by Jonathan GayMan

EsprEsso Martini by Dick braDsEll, c. 1984 The three beans here resemble the tradition of three beans in a glass of Sambuca; they represent happiness, health, and prosperity. SERVES | 1 |

1½ ¾ ¾ 1 3

oz vodka oz Kahlúa oz freshly brewed espresso tsp simple syrup coffee beans (for garnish)

| preparation | In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine all ingredients except garnish. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled Martini glass. Garnish with coffee beans.

EsprEsso Martini, variation For this version, use vanilla vodka for a sweeter drink or citrus vodka for something on the drier side. SERVES | 1 |

1 1 1

the coffee-and-booze mixture that gets the most attention is usually Irish coffee. a few years ago, I wanted to spike my coffee, but was out of my go-to bourbon; all I had left was tanqueray. Gin isn’t usually the first spirit that comes to mind in such a drink, but I thought for a moment about the citrus characteristics in gin and how it’s common to order a lemon twist with espresso. after doing some research, I found a drink called the camel cocktail in the back of a bar book from 1927, Barflies and Cocktails. “It’s dick Reynolds’ camel cocktail," the book explains, “and it consists of: heaping teaspoonful of G. Washington coffee (with or without cream), ½ gill of gin, a dash of sugar syrup, well iced. Well, dick, go on and tell me that you’d walk a mile for a camel cocktail.'” a similar drink is the Espresso Martini. Legend has it the drink was first created by London bartender dick bradsell in 1984. bradsell claimed that a famous model came into Fred’s club and asked him to make her a drink that would at once wake her up but also get her drunk. Initially called the pharmaceutical Stimulant, it’s what we know now as the Espresso Martini. Since then, bars around the world have made slight adaptations to the relic, riffing on the combination of vodka (usually plain, vanilla or citrus-flavored), coffee liqueur and fresh espresso. one important note: don’t cut corners by using coffee instead of espresso, as it will make for a watery drink.

oz flavored vodka oz Koloa Coffee Rum oz freshly brewed espresso

| preparation | In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine all ingredients. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled Martini glass.

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Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of the dive bar of cocktail bars and senior brand ambassador for Tom's Town Distilling Co. in Kansas City.


on The shelf : sePTember PIcks

WINE

HermannHof vineyardS’ 2012 CHambourCin vin GriS written by HiLary HeDges

Provenance: Hermann, Missouri PaIrIngs: Bruschetta • Pork chops • Grilled chicken

Caesar salad Hermannhof Vineyards' Chambourcin Vin gris is a medium- to light-bodied dry rosé made with estate-grown grapes from Hermannhof's Little Mountain Vineyard, located about eight miles west of Hermann, Missouri. the grapes are harvested at night, gently crushed and immediately pressed with minimal skin contact to achieve a salmon color before aging sur-lie – or on the yeast – in stainless steel tanks for six months. it’s well-rounded, bright and crisp, with fruit-forward flavors that linger on the finish. Hermannhof Vineyards’ wines are available at the tasting room and online. hermannhof.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

BEER

pubLiC HouSe breWinG Co.’S viGnoLeS ipa written by ryan niCkeLson

sTyle: india Pale ale PaIrIngs: Crumbly goat cheese with walnuts • Grilled pork steak •

apple pie Public House Brewing Co. in st. James, Missouri, collaborated with its neighbor st. James winery to blend its elusive iPa with the winery’s freshly pressed Vignoles grapes straight from the vineyard. Citrus and floral aromatics from traditional american hops combine with notes of grapefruit and pineapple and the pressed white grapes to produce a truly unique and well-balanced ale. the finish is crisp, dry and very refreshing. publichousebrewery.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop in Clayton, Missouri, with an upcoming location in South City. To learn more, visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

SpiritS of St. LouiS’ HopSkey fLavored WHiSkey written by Jenn tosatto

Provenance: st. Louis (40% abV) Try IT: on ice at your next barbecue

Like hoppy beers and whiskey? Square One Brewery and Distillery, which distills as spirits of st. Louis, has got you covered. Hopskey is flavored using hops in the still to produce a light whiskey with all of the aroma of hops but without any of the bitterness. the nose is reminiscent of a good iPa – floral and citrusy. Despite that, the flavor on the palate is quite mellow, and the hops play incredibly well with the notes the barrel imparts. at first taste, the hops are quite forward, but after the second sip, you begin to taste everything as a whole rather than the sum of its parts in this playful whiskey. squareonebrewery.com You can find Jenn Tosatto running the bar at Mission Taco Joint's newly opened Kansas City location. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events. Inspired Local Food Culture

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promotion

perfect Check out some of your favorite local wineries and the foods that pair well with their wines. Pomegranate-Glazed Duck Breast With Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard’s Estate-Bottled Chambourcin

Peppercorn-Encrusted New York Strip Steak With Wild Sun Winery’s Norton Wild Sun Winery’s Norton, aged in small French oak barrels, has a striking garnet color and medium to heavy body. A full-flavored peppercorn-encrusted strip steak, topped with Gorgonzola crumbles, is held up with the Norton’s balanced acidity as well as its dark-fruit aromas and pepper and vanilla notes.

Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard Estate-Bottled Chambourcin is one of few reds that pairs with light dishes. Try it with pomegranate-glazed duck breast, wild mushrooms and herbs. The duck’s robustness is brightened by the crispness of the Chambourcin.

4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, Missouri, wildsunwinery.com

10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, Missouri, edg-clif.com/wine.html

Vietnamese Pho With Martin Brothers Winery’s Orange Blossom Mead This mead from Martin Brothers Winery is made completely from orange blossom honey. The aromas of orange blossoms and notes of orange cream envelop the senses. The mead’s floral nature and hint of sweetness complement the spicy and herbal complexity of traditional Vietnamese pho. 1623 Old Iron Road, Hermann, Missouri, martinbrotherswinery.com

Indian Chicken Curry With St. James Winery’s Friendship School White FriendshipSchoolWhitefromSt.JamesWineryfeatures aromas of grapefruit and marmalade with crisp green appleandlemonflavors.Thissemidrywinepairswellwith chickencurrymadewithcurrypowder,paprika,cinnamon and ginger root as the fruity sweetness from the residual sugar balances the heat and spice. 540 State Route B, St. James, Missouri, stjameswinery.com

London Broil With Meyer Family Cellars’ Syrah

Seafood Linguine With EdgeWild’s Oregon Riesling The indulgent seafood linguine – with scallops, shrimp and clams tossed with arugula, handmade pasta and a spicy sauce of tomato, garlic and white wine – at EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery has a salty and subtly spicy component, which is complemented rather than overpowered by the Riesling’s high acidity. 550 Chesterfield Center, Chesterfield, Missouri, edgewildwinery.com

New York Strip Steak With LaChance Vineyards’ Crimson Cabernet LaChance Vineyards’ Crimson Cabernet blends with the richness of a New York strip steak with portobello-thyme sauce. The medium-bodied wine, with cherry and blackberry notes, holds up to robust flavor of the mushrooms. 12237 Peter Moore Lane, De Soto, Missouri, lachancevineyards.com 36

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The bright berry, pepper and earth notes in Meyer Family Cellars Syrah pair well with most charred beef, but they shine with The Rack House Kitchen Wine Whiskey’s tender London broil with potato-sweet corn hash and chimichurri sauce. The wine’s slight acidity cuts through the garlic in the sauce, as well. 5065 State Highway N, Cottleville, Missouri, therackhousekww.com

Drunken Shrimp With Endless Summer Winery’s Pineapple Wine Reminiscent of late-summer days, Endless Summer Winery’s semisweet Pineapple Wine has tropical notes that pair well with light dishes. Try marinating shrimp in the citrusy wine for an hour, then simmering and poaching on the stove, to make Drunken Shrimp, a refreshing appetizer with a sweet and tangy kick. 11 Grosse Lane, Hermann, Missouri, endlesssummerwinery.com


promotion Schweinbraten With Stone Hill Winery’s Hermannsberger Melt-in-your-mouth, beer-braised pork short ribs, or Schweinbraten, served ed atop crushed Yukon Gold potatoes are the perfect accompaniment with Stone Hill Winery’s Hermannsberger,, named after one the winery’s first pre-Prohibition wines. Hermannsberger offers fresh, fruity aromas and a mellow palate structure, making it the perfect dry red wine to enjoy with the German short ribs. 1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, Missouri, stonehillwinery.com

Brie and Raspberry Sauce With Balducci Vineyards’ Chambourcin

It’s Harvest Missouri grape harvest is the beginning of crafting

Balducci Vineyards’ 2016 Chambourcin pairs perfectly with a mature Brie with raspberry sauce, toasted almonds and French bread. The Chambourcin falls between an old-world Syrah and a Gamay: The wine is fruity yet not too tannic, which allows for a balanced pairing with the decadently flavored cheese and tart sauce. 6601 S. Highway 94, Augusta, Missouri, balduccivineyards.com

Barramundi With Montelle Winery’s Seyval Blanc Similar to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Montelle Winery’s dry white Seyval al Blanc is crisp and fresh with well-balanced ell-balanced acidity and tightly knit citrus flavors. There’ss just enough body to hold up to meaty white fish like barramundi – served with lardons, smoked ham broth, zebra lemon and scallions – and its acidity and kick of citrus balance the smoke of the broth and marry with the zebra lemon. 201 Montelle Drive, Augusta, Missouri, montelle.com

Pan-Seared Snapper With Noboleis Vineyards’ Baril de Blanc The newly released Baril de Blanc from Noboleis Vineyards yards has a subtle oak profile that finishes with a crisp mingling of citrus and smooth buttery notes. It’s the perfect light balance to a pan-seared snapper with asparagus and sweet potato purée. The citrus notes shine with the asparagus while the buttery finish enhances the earthy and nutty sweet potato purée.

Visit wine country this season for a variety of events, festivals and live music. In the October Issue we’ll profile some of Missouri’s most popular vineyards.

100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, Missouri, noboleisvineyards.com

edg-clif farms & vineyard photography by faith durand photography by ©istock.com/ serghei starus, rez-art, alleko, jackmalipan, paulbinet

Call 314-475-1298 to learn more about promoting your winery. Inspired Local Food Culture

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all-star sweets

Ad Astra Market shoots for the moon with a fresh food and flower shop in Mission, Kansas, on p. 44. photography by angela bond


Worts & All WriTTEn by JEssiCa vaughn phoTography by aaron oTTis

COLUMBIA, MO. mid-missouri has a new one-stop shop for homebrewers and winemakers. Worts & All opened in January, and owner keith heckman has the shop stocked with all the equipment you’ll need to put a cap on a bottle of success. “The deal is, you can buy this stuff anywhere, so i’m not really selling stuff,” he says. “i’m selling customer service, and the ability to touch, feel, see and taste, and have somebody help you through the process. i can ask you questions until i figure out what you need and what will be best for you.” With 15 years of experience homebrewing – and best in show at the barley and hops hoopla in 2014 – heckman’s knowledge is as expansive as the stock. shop more than 30 varieties of base grains and specialty grains, along with a wide range of hops, yeasts, wine bottles, beer bottles, corks, caps – you name it, he’s got it. heckman even sells large quantities of honey for meadmakers. you can get a one-on-one walk through winemaking and brewing processes by popping into the store, or attend one of the free classes heckman plans to soon host in the shop on weekends.

8650 N. Hwy. VV, Columbia, Missouri, wortsandall.com

WriTTEn by nanCy sTiLEs

maverick et-64 redi fork pro electronic food probe thermometer Consolidate your barbecue arsenal with this combination barbecue fork and meat thermometer. The battery-powered fork displays your meat’s internal temperature in just three seconds and indicates if it’s well done, medium, medium rare or rare. The LCD screen is backlit, plus there’s an LED flashlight so you can see what you’re grilling even after the sun goes down. For more information or to purchase the fork, visit maverickhousewares.com. phoTo CourTEsy mavEriCk

gaswatch bluetooth propane-level indicator scale Don’t wait until everyone’s cracked open a beer before you realize you’re low on propane. This bluetooth-enabled indicator scale sends tank levels directly to an app on your smartphone. The app also displays the remaining cook time in hours and minutes, and a low-level alarm sounds on the scale itself when only 10 percent of gas remains in the tank. For more information or to purchase the scale, visit amazon.com. phoTo CourTEsy gasWaTCh

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DINE IN OR CARRY OUT 3106 Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63103 pappyssmokehouse.com 314.535.4340

Your invited to

pork out

HOURS: Mon. - Sat. 11 am - 8pm* Sun. 11 am - 4pm* *May close earlier if we sell out of food.

CATER WITH PAPPY’S

Sunday Brunch Every Sunday 9am - 2pm

September Events

Sept 10th

End Alzheimer' s Triathlon

Sept 23rd

80' s Party at our New Majestic Falls Pavilion

Mimosas or House Bloody Marys Served During Brunch

Adults - $16.95 • Kids 6 - 12 $8.48 Kids 5 and under FREE

• Wine • Dining • Banquet Facilities • Cabin Rentals

hiddenlakewinery.com

Serving Restaurants since 1973

Authentic Local & Family

10580 Wellen Rd | Aviston, IL 62216 | 618-228-9111

We’re Growing! Now hiring: Account managers CDL Drivers Class B w/Airbrake

DELTA QUEEN PORT OF CALL

WINE DINNER

Warehouse Operations

Four Wines and Five Courses

Thursday September 21 • 7pm Featuring

Fox Run Vineyards

from the Finger Lakes Region

The Award Winning Cuisine from Delta Queen 6035 Second Street Kimmswick, MO 63053 636-223-7170 www.dqportofcall.com

www.oletyme.com 314.436.5010

$100 Per Person

Reservations and Advance Payment Required Limited Space Inspired Local Food Culture

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don cary

president and owner, yoder smokers WrITTen BY HUonG TrUonG

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PHoTo CoUrTeSY YoDer SMoKerS

HUTCHInSon, KS. Before he started building competition-level smokers, Don Cary, president and owner of Yoder Smokers, worked in the construction-manufacturing business. He began simply building grills for family and friends, and eventually turned it into a whole other company dedicated to building American-made grills and smokers that will last a lifetime. Yoder Smokers’ products can be found all over the country, and as far away as Prague and Australia. With business booming, 59-year-old Cary sees nothing but growth and success for his company.

How did you start Yoder Smokers? We’re a manufacturer by trade. one of our other companies manufactures construction tools, equipment and more. My vice president, Joe Phillips, managed production and the custom shop for oklahoma Joe’s Smokers Co. in the late ’90s. Then, there were smokers we built for family, friends and employees. Those were all offset wood smokers. We built our first grill in 2007 and began building for commercial sale in 2009. What’s your best-selling grill? Probably our most well-known grill has become the YS640 Pellet Grill. That grill is the right size, the right price and the right ease of use. It just gives you fantastic flavor. What’s the most interesting custom-made grill you’ve done? one of the party pits that we built for nebraskaLand national Bank had keg storage, a huge fryer and just – it was an amazing grill. Why is it important that Yoder Smokers is all American-made? We work in an industry where almost everything is imported. In our case, most people are importing expensive, lightweight, throw-away products. Also, [customers] are particularly interested in buying American, and it’s increasingly more difficult [to do so]. What’s your favorite thing to cook on your YS640? I’m gonna tell you my wife’s favorite since that’s easy. For her, it’s a Kansas City strip steak; it’s a strip-loin steak that she’ll do a reverse sear on. If I had to pick it would probably be smoked salmon on a cedar plank. What’s your favorite part about building smokers? easy – customer satisfaction. People love them. They buy them, they have good experiences with them. They cook in different ways with things that they’ve not cooked in the past, and have great success doing it. yodersmokers.com

Praise the Lard written by Huong truong

in Murphysboro, illinois, lies world-famous 17th Street barbecue. it’s no surprise that the lives of Mike Mills, a barbecue Hall-of-Famer with four world Champion titles and three Memphis in May grand world Champion titles, and his daughter Amy revolve around family and barbecue. in their latest cookbook, Praise the Lard (aptly subtitled Recipes and Revelations from a Legendary Life in Barbecue), the father-daughter duo shares family barbecue traditions, recipes, tips and more. Stories of the generations of family members like Mama Faye and Mike’s older brother Landess Mills fill the pages. Chapters, divided by dish type and occasion, lead barbecue enthusiasts through the basics, such as “High Holy Days,” focused on dishes feeding large, hungry crowds, and “Praise the Lard,” dedicated to a do-it-yourself whole-hog experience. recipes such as Mills’ champion Legendary baby back ribs with his signature Apple City barbecue Sauce (made with cane-sugar ketchup and grated apple peels) can be made with easy-to-follow instructions, from prepping the meat to setting up the smoker to serving. Praise the Lard is for barbecue-lovers of all levels who are ready to immerse themselves in Mills’ wisdom. By Mike Mills and Amy Mills hmhco.com


Farmers’ Hour everyday 3-6pm

EVENT

Congratulations, and thanks for joining us! The Grille at Park Place Prime Rib Bite

5501 Locust Street, Augusta, MO 63332 (636) 482-4667 Call for reservations! Nothing cures spring fever like the fresh flavors of our new seasonal menu. Enjoy southern comfort food at its best. Now accepting dinner reservations! Go to: Sillygoosemo.com to find out more! Like us on Facebook.com/sillygooseaugusta

CHICK

2620 S Glenstone Ave Springfield, MO 65804 (417) 864-6994 farmersgastropub.com

The Results Are In For The

Holy Field Vineyard & Winery Tailgate

Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery Citron

Foodie Choice Awards!

Wine Tasting Lunch Served Daily Private Events and Weddings Breathtaking Views Martin City Brewing Company Sideway

Java Garage LLC N7 Nitro

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100 hemsath rd. augusta mo open daily 11a-5p noboleisvineyards.com 636.482.4500

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Ad AstrA MArket wrItten BY JennY verGara pHotoGrapHY BY anGela Bond

MISSION, KS. lifelong friends Sydney Gasper and chef Janie weeks were

stumped coming up with a name for their unique new fresh food and flower shop, Ad Astra Market in Mission, kansas. Ultimately, the two were inspired by kansas’ state motto, ad astra, meaning “to the stars” in latin. at ad astra, Gasper creates fanciful floral arrangements, and weeks makes decadent baked goods, plus graband-go lunch and dinner meals. In addition to running the new market, Gasper and weeks offer their collective services for events and special occasions. look for protein balls, snack packs, salad shakers and yogurt parfaits ready to eat on the go, plus lunch items like sandwiches and salads. the housemade baked goods are not to be missed, and include cookies, mini muffins, loaves and croissants.

5811 Johnson Drive, Mission, Kansas, adastramarket.com

artisan products

wrItten BY HUonG trUonG

hackett hot wing sauce

heirloom bottling co. shrubs & syrups

JOPLIN, MO. In 2003, Floyd and Jacqueline Hackett brought the flavors of Memphis to Joplin, Missouri, when they opened Hackett Hot Wings restaurant. It started out as Floyd simply making wings at home during his free time, and eventually turned into a family business. Best known for its sauces and rubs, the Joplin restaurant offers customers several of each, including its signature Hot & Honey, which combines house hot sauce with honey in 16-ounce bottles. Hackett’s also sells five rubs: Season, its house blend; Greek; lemon pepper; Cajun and Caribbean jerk. You can purchase the sauces and rubs online or at the restaurant.

ST. LOUIS. In his free time, bartender, homebrewer and cocktail

hacketthotwings.com pHoto provIded BY HaCkett Hot wInGS

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enthusiast Brad Zulick decided to dive into the world of shrubs and syrups. He launched Heirloom Bottling Co. in May with mostly vinegar-based shrubs made with organic apple cider vinegar, real sugar and fruit. the current lineup includes blueberry-sage; blackberrylemon-mint; grapefruit-ginger-vanilla, with a mix of white wine and cider vinegars; and a limepeppercorn syrup, which has no vinegar, but Szechuan and pink peppercorns. each 16-ounce bottle recommends a simple cocktail recipe on the label. the shrubs also pair well with non-alcoholic beverages like black or green iced tea and sparkling water. You can find Heirloom Bottling Co. products at farmers’ markets and stores in St. louis including Union Studio, Intoxicology and the wine and Cheese place. heirloombottling.com pHoto BY JaCklYn MeYer


Wine Made from

Honey

M B Martin Brothers Winery It’s time.

MissouriMead.com

Hermann, Mo

Saturday, September 16th 7-10 pm A Wine Tasting Event For Your Brain $50 in advance or $60 at the door. Ticket includes entertainment, small plates, wine and spirits tastings, parking and more! slsc.org • 314.289.4400

SPONSORED IN PART BY:

This is an adult event, 21 years and older. Inspired Local Food Culture

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The 6th Annual Classic Cocktail Party will be held in conjunction with the last Concert in the Park with the Jeremiah Johnson Band in Lafayette Square Park on Sept. 9th at 6pm. Local distilleries will feature signature cocktails. Proceeds will benefit the Lafayette Square Arts Council. Tickets are available for unlimited tastes through Eventbrite under St. Louis Classic Cocktail Party

Drink Like a Local runs from Sept. 9th—17th, promoting cocktail bars. Participating locations will be serving specialty cocktails using local spirits. This year we are highlighting the Cherokee Street Neighborhood. Also The Gin Room will celebrate Casino Royale Night (9/12), The Gaslight Lounge will have a Whiskey Tasting (9/13) & Propaganda will have a Vodka Tasting (9/14), and to wrap up the week there is a great showing of our distillers at the Science Center’s Science Uncorked (9/16). For more information about individual events go to: www.facebook.com/pg/StLouisCraftSpiritsCocktailWeek/event

For information: www.facebook.com/StLouisCraftSpiritsCocktailWeek or Call Square One Brewery & Distillery at 314-231-2537 or email info@squareonebrewery.com

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a dash of succotash

Enjoy the last flavors of summer with this grilled peach and corn succotash on p. 48. photography by ShErrIE CaStELLaNo


healthy appetite

story, recipe AND photogrAphy by sherrie cAstellANo

Grilled Peach and corn SuccotaSh I’ve substituted black beans for the traditional lima beans here. If you prefer lima beans, use 1 cup in place of the black beans. serves | 4 to 6 |

4

ears sweet corn, husks and silks removed 2 peaches or nectarines, pitted and halved ¼ cup olive oil, plus more for grilling 1 cup halved cherry tomatoes 1 cup cucumber, diced small ¼ cup minced shallots ½ cup cooked black beans 1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, roughly chopped 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tsp honey sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

| preparation | brush corn and peaches lightly with olive oil. heat outdoor grill or grill pan over stovetop to medium-high heat. grill corn and peaches until tender and browned, about 7 to 10 minutes. slice corn off cobs and dice peaches into bite-sized pieces. reserve in a bowl until ready to finish succotash. in a medium bowl, combine cherry tomatoes, cucumber, shallots, cooked black beans and basil leaves. in a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, apple cider vinegar, lemon juice and honey. season with salt and pepper. in a large bowl, combine corn and peaches with cherry tomato mixture and toss to combine. slowly pour dressing into succotash, tossing as you go to evenly coat all ingredients. season with more salt and pepper to taste. chill succotash for 30 minutes to 1 hour before serving.

%PG

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Grilled Peach and corn SuccotaSh September is summer’s last hurrah, and succotash is the best way to celebrate. Sweet corn and lima beans are the foundation of a traditional succotash, but this version combines my favorite late-summer foods, including peaches, corn, basil and cucumbers. it’s a fresh combination of raw and grilled vegetables and herbaceous and vinegary flavors.

another perk of this easy-to-assemble succotash: you don’t have to turn on your oven. Simply grill the corn and peaches and allow them to cool, dice the cherry tomatoes and cucumbers and whisk together the dressing. toss it together for a light main course or a side dish with grilled pork, chicken or fish.

Sherrie Castellano is a former health coach turned food writer, photographer and pop-up chef based in St. Louis, Missouri. A collection of Sherrie’s recipes, stories and images can be found on her Saveur Blog Award-nominated website, With Food + Love. Sherrie is currently the marketing director for Midwest-based Big Heart Tea Co.


promotion

NEW WEEKDAY Specials Tuesday written by bethany christo photography by jacklyn meyer

Where There’s Smoke

Coming from restaurant and science backgrounds rather than learning in competition-barbecue circuits, chef-owner Ron Buechele smokes his top-selling brisket at Capitalist Pig in St. Louis a little differently. He starts by trimming as much surface fat as possible from the two brisket muscle cuts (“Muscle is made up mostly of water, and fat is mostly made up of oil,” he says. “The two repel, and the fat prohibits the smoke from penetrating the meat.”) and then smokes it for a much shorter period of time – about 4 hours – at a lower temperature to let the connective tissue break down and tenderize the brisket. He also exclusively uses locally sourced Missouri white oak, which gives his smoked items – turkey, ribs, pulled pork, corned beef, bacon and more – a unique flavor while also promoting sustainability. “There’s so much oak in Missouri that it’s practically a weed,” Buechele says. “Plus, it’s a renewable source and has the ability to replenish itself.”

Thursday

Buy 1 entree, Get 1 entree 1/2 OFF after 4 pm

$12 - 8 oz. STEAK NIGHT after 4 pm

LiveMusic Music Live Friday Live Friday Music Happy Hour Happy Hour NEW

NEW

5-7 pm 5-7 5-7pm pm1/2 priced options & drink specials Mon - Fri, 2-6 pm

/2 OFF select bottles of wine & more

1

Mon - Fri, 2 - 6 pm

EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery | 550 Chesterfield Center | Chesterfield, MO | edgewildwinery.com | 636.532.0550

Meet the Owner

Ron Buechele

“I’m an onion,” Buechele jokes. The chef-owner of Capitalist Pig has an unique background that has come full circle at his joint barbecue restaurant, which doubles as an art gallery and event space, Mad Art, and was previously a police station. Buechele grew up working at restaurants and caterers in high school and college, where he also focused on chemistry and biology. “At the end of the day, cooking that protein right comes down to a science and understanding what it’s made of,” he says. After college, Buechele worked as a cop for 20 years with the St. Louis Metropolitan Police Department, during which time he also earned a Bachelor of Fine Arts in painting. He did this with the intention of opening Mad Art, and after dismissing his cook in 2007, decided to take over the kitchen and catering duties for the event space and eventually opened lunch-only Capitalist Pig in 2012. Capitalist Pig | 2727 S. 12th St. | St. Louis 314.772.1180 | capitalistpigbbq.com

Now serving reservation only dinners on Thursday and Friday evenings. Call to make your reservations Lunch served Wednesday through Sunday 11am-4pm

WINERY HOURS:

Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 11am-6pm Friday – 11am-10pm

12237 Peter Moore Lane | DeSoto, MO 63020 636-586-2777 | lachancevineyards.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Thai Style Fish Cake

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georgian spice mixture khmeli suneli makes late-summer meals taste like sunshine. story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Khmeli Suneli ChiCKen SKewerS with iSraeli CouSCouS-SpinaCh Salad You can find dried marigold petals at specialty herb or tea shops, or online. serves | 6 to 8 |

KhmelI sunelI ChICKen sKeWers 2 Tbsp dried dill 2 Tbsp dried savory 1½ Tbsp dried mint 1½ Tbsp dried ground coriander 1½ Tbsp sweet paprika 2 Tbsp fenugreek seeds 2 Tbsp dried marigold petals 2 dried bay leaves 2½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 3 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs, sliced into 2-inch sections 2 tsp kosher salt ¼ cup olive oil IsrAelI CousCous-spInACh sAlAD 5 Tbsp olive oil, divided 1½ cups Israeli couscous 2 cups vegetable stock ¼ cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped ¼ cup fresh basil leaves, finely chopped 4 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed, sliced into thin rings 2 cups roughly chopped baby spinach leaves juice of 2 lemons sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

| preparation – chicken skewers | add first 9 ingredients to a spice grinder and pulse until broken down into a powder. in a large bowl, add chicken and toss with 3 tablespoons khmeli suneli and salt; cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. prepare outdoor grill for medium-high heat and oil grates; set out chicken to take off chill. thread chicken onto skewers, brush with olive oil and grill on all sides until internal temperature reaches 165°f, 22 to 24 minutes.

| preparation – salad | in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. add couscous and cook, stirring frequently, until toasted. add stock and stir to combine; bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer for 8 minutes. strain any liquid from couscous and add to a large bowl to cool slightly. stir in remaining oil to coat; add mint, basil, scallions and spinach, tossing to combine. add lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. | to serve | plate salad on a platter and lay skewers over top. serve family-style.

mystery shopper

meet: Khmeli suneli What Is It? Khmeli suneli is a traditional Georgian spice mix – a version of five-spice powder, if you will. It’s popular throughout the country of Georgia and the entire Caucasus region, and exists in many variations, thanks to the litany of different dried herbs and spices used to customize each blend. Dill, coriander, bay leaf, fenugreek and mint are essential, as are dried marigold petals (also known as calendula), which taste like a hit of powdered sunshine. the finished product has the aroma and flavor of grilling on a hot summer day. What do I do WIth It? the spice mixture complements any sort of meat,

especially on the grill. rub it onto lamb, beef, chicken or fish to bring an intense brightness to dishes. It’s equally lovely on vegetables, including zucchini, squash and cauliflower, and a little sprinkle over hummus and olive oil perks up crudités. When the weather turns cold, do as the Georgians do and add generous amounts of khmeli suneli to stews and soups. It’s an essential ingredient in kharcho, a hearty beef or lamb soup with walnuts and rice. When making the spice mixture at home, don’t be tempted to add salt. Instead, season any meats or vegetables with the appropriate amount of salt during prep.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.


TV

WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm.

Monday – Friday

Meals

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 8am and 6:30pm.

in Simply Schnucks Magazine!

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Saturdays at noon and Mondays at 12:30pm.

Check your local listings to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

simply fast fresh AND

SEPTEMBER 2017

MAKE THIS EASY BEET AND QUINOA SALAD P.12

IT’S FREE!

WEEKNIGHT RECIPES

SCORE A TOUCHDOWN WITH OUR TAILGATE RECIPES PG. 14

FREE with purchase schnucks.com

In September, see how to break out of your recipe rut with fast and fresh dinner options – one for every night of the week! From one-pot spaghetti to easy chicken curry, our recipes will prove haste makes taste.

LOOK FOR SIMPLY SCHNUCKS MAGAZINE IN-STORE SOON OR AT SCHNUCKS.COM.

©2017 Schnucks

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quick fix

Grilled Miso-Glazed Fish story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

Grilled Miso-Glazed fish serves | 4 TO 6 |

GRiLLeD MiSo-GLazeD FiSh ½ cup mirin ½ cup sake 2 tsp dark sesame oil ½ tsp chile oil ¼ cup soy sauce 3 Tbsp dark brown sugar 1 cup white or yellow miso paste 4 6-oz firm fish fillets VeGetaBLeS ½ cup apple cider vinegar ½ cup water 1 tsp brown sugar 1 tsp soy sauce 1 tsp fresh lemon juice 6 large carrots, sliced into matchsticks 3 red peppers, sliced into matchsticks 4 small zucchini, sliced into matchsticks ½ cup scallions, sliced on the bias (for garnish)

| preparation – miso-glazed fish | in a large bowl, whisk all ingredients together until sugar has dissolved. transfer to a zip-close bag. add fish fillets to bag and let marinate in refrigerator for 3 hours. remove fillets from marinade and pat dry. over a hot grill or preheated grill pan, grill fillets for 4 to 6 minutes on each side or until internal temperature reaches 150°f. transfer fillets to a platter to rest for 5 minutes.

| preparation – vegetables | in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add first 5 ingredients and bring to a boil. add carrots and cook for 5 minutes. reduce heat to medium, add peppers and cook for 5 minutes. add zucchini and cook for 5 minutes more.

| to serve | remove vegetables from saucepan using a slotted spoon and stack on a serving platter. add fillets to the top and garnish with scallions.

Hugely popular in its native Japan, miso is a thick paste that adds a savory, slightly sweet umami flavor to dishes. it's made by salting and fermenting soybeans and rice or barley, and then inoculating the mixture with yeast. Miso is most often used as a flavoring for soups, sauces and marinades. To source sustainable fish for this versatile recipe, turn to the experts at Seafood Watch, an organization managed by Monterey Bay Aquarium. The group estimates that more than

75 percent of the world’s fisheries are either fully fished or overfished, damaging habitats and ecosystems, and endangering species across the globe. The group’s team of scientists conduct extensive long-term research to compile lists of fish and seafood that is caught in responsible ways, offering recommendations for “best” and “good” choices, as well as overfished or endangered seafood to avoid. To purchase the best choices for this recipe, seek out black sea bass or red grouper from the Gulf of Mexico or u.S. South Atlantic.

chef’s tip MARKED UP. When grilling firm fish fillets, spray grill grates or grill pan with cooking-oil spray to avoid sticking. Only turn

fish fillets once, but if you want to achieve hatch marks on your fillets, place them on the grill facing 10pm, grill for about two minutes and then gently turn, on the same side, to face 2pm. Gently flip fillets and repeat on other side.

the menu • Featherweight Slaw with Creamy Ginger Dressing • Steamed Brown Rice • Miso-Glazed Grilled Fish • Lemon Curd Parfait

LEARn MoRE. in this class you’ll learn how to properly cut

vegetables into fine matchsticks. You’ll also learn how to expertly glaze and grill fish.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school at 6pm on thu., sept. 28 at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes on this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.


Augusta Harvest Festival

A destination winery set among the rolling Ozark countryside

“Explore a day in the life of a German Immigrant”

September 15 - 17, 2017 Friday Night 4:00pm-10:00pm “Picnic and Concert in the Vineyard”

Enjoy Enjoy aa gourmet gourmet picnic picnic basket, basket, listen listen to to live live music music while while watching watching the the suntet suntet over over the the vineyards vineyards (Reservations (Reservations Required) Required)

Saturday Day 8:00am-4:00pm Augusta Town Festival; Family Day Saturday Saturday Night Night 6:00pm-10:00pm 6:00pm-10:00pm Wine Wine Makers Makers Social Social Dinner Dinner

A A prestigious prestigious dinner dinner allows allows you you to to meet meet the the Winemakers Winemakers and and Grape Grape Growers Growers in in the the Augusta Augusta AVA AVA (Reservations (Reservations Required) Required)

• • • •

Award-winning wine Freshly prepared food Live music Beautiful sunsets

Sunday Day noon-5:00pm Heritage Day

Understand Understand the the background background and and heritage heritage of of historic historic town. town.

Located on Route 66 just outside of Cuba, MO

Augusta, Missouri

5870 Old Route 66 Leasburg, MO 65535 573-885-7156 www.belmontvineyards.com

Come Visit and Stay Awhile 636-228-4005

www.augusta-chamber.org

Perryville, MO day destination

Only 1 hour South of St. Louis

Dine

Eat, Drink & Be Mary 102 N. Jackson Street, Perryville, MO • maryjaneburgers.com

Drink

It’s Everything You Never Knew You Loved Named by USA Today: 10 Amazing Chef’s Tables You Should Know About Two private dining rooms available to accommodate any and all events

www.bloodandsandstl.com 314-241-7263 CRAFT BEER, PIZZA & BREWERY TOURS 106 N. Jackson Street, Perryville, MO • jstreetbrewco.com

2 great places, 1 great street.

@bloodandsandstl

Membership Has Its Privileges Inspired Local Food Culture

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sweet ideas

story and recipe by christy augustin photography by cheryl Waller

Bacon-cheddar-Jalapeño cornBread Muffins These muffins are flavored with crispy, salty bacon, sharp Cheddar and fiery jalapeño, but feel free to substitute whatever ingredients you prefer. yields | 10 to 12 muffins |

¹⁄₃ 2 1 1¼ 2 1½ ¹⁄₈ 1½ 2 1¼ ¼ ¹⁄₃ 1 ½ ¹⁄₃

cup plus 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided Tbsp honey cup cornmeal cups unbleached, all-purpose flour Tbsp granulated sugar tsp baking powder tsp baking soda tsp kosher salt eggs cups low-fat buttermilk cup whole milk cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese ear fresh corn, kernels removed from cob jalapeño, deseeded and finely diced cup finely chopped cooked bacon

| preparation | preheat oven to 375°F. line a muffin tin with paper muffin cups. in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, melt ¹⁄₃ cup butter until it begins to sizzle. stir constantly until butter begins to foam and turns a nutty brown. immediately pour browned butter into a heat-proof container, scraping brown bits from the bottom of pan. add honey to browned butter and set aside. in a medium bowl, whisk together the next 6 ingredients. in a separate bowl, combine eggs, buttermilk and whole milk. pour wet ingredients into dry and whisk until smooth. add browned butter and whisk to combine. stir in remaining ingredients and spoon batter into prepared muffin cups until ²⁄₃ full. bake 15 to 20 minutes or until tops of muffins are a light golden brown and spring back to the touch. spread remaining butter over top of muffins while still warm. serve.

Bacon-cheddar-Jalapeño cornBread Muffins cornbread is a staple in southern cooking, with more variations than there are stars in the sky. some folks prefer sweet cornbread accented with caramelized nuts and maple syrup or citrus-tinged with orange zest and fresh cranberries. My favorite cornbread is one that’s savory, a little spicy and hearty enough to sop up chili or barbecue sauce.

this cornbread is delicious with or without bacon crumbles, cheddar cheese and jalapeños: the browned butter gives the cornbread a nuanced flavor and the buttermilk adds just the right amount of tang. Feel free to swap in whatever ingredients you prefer, too: scallions, roasted chile peppers, chorizo or different types of cheese all work well.

Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.


vita craft cookware’s

MADE IN KIRKWOOD, MISSOURI

Annual tent sale September 29th thru October 1st, 2017

Egg-Free • Wheat-Free • Dairy-Free ORDER INQUIRIES: 314-968-9165 Visitwww.ireneshomemadegranola.comfor alistoflocalstoresthatcarrythishealthytreat.

Peruvian Dining

in SpringField MO

8am - 6pm

huge savings!

3 days only!

American Craftsmanship

since 1939 234 East Commercial St, Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 | www.cafecusco.com

11100 W. 58th St., Shawnee, KS 913-631-6265 | vitacraft.com

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Furniture Repaired, Furniture Refinished 5 Year Workmanship Guarantee Quality Craftsmanship • Refinishing • Reupholstery Antique Restoration Repair • Custom Made Draperies Custom Made Furniture • New Furniture • Antiques Monday - Friday 8am - 4:30pm Appointments & Service Available 24 Hrs. A Day, 7 Days A Week

Since 1893

Just east of 3400 S. Kingshighway We accept Discover, Visa, Mastercard and American Express

4821 Fairview Ave., St. Louis • 314.832.1555 • www.zollingerfurniture.com

JOIN OUR LOYALTY PROGRAM! FOR EVERY $100 SPENT ON TOGO ORDERS, RECIEVE $10 BACK ON YOUR NEXT MEAL! SIGN UP TODAY AT KING AND I RESTAURANT! FEATURING FRESH HOMEMADE CURRY PASTE SINCE 1983

3155 South Grand | St. Louis, MO. 63118 | 314.771.1777 | www.kingandistl.com

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A Smoking Gun Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery

Saddle up and return to the Old West. You are invited to a Cattlemen' s meeting at Miss Catty Mae West’s Saloon in Deadwood. The Rifleman and Wild Bill Hic-cup will join you when a Man with No Name drifts into town carrying a dead man on his saddle. Why don' t ya mosey on in and help us solve the mystery of the lost cattle. . . I mean, “Where’s the Beef?” Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this ad in for $10 off per person Valid through September 2017. Not valid for groups.

Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

TRY US FOR YOUR SPECIAL OCCASION! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! ªT o Eat Well is to Live Wellº Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Birthday, Graduation, Retirement, Corporate Parties! Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Try Our Party Pans For A Delicious Meal For Any Size Group Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials Now selling our Signature Salad Dressing and Pasta Sauce. Bottled with love by our family for your family. Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday

5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com

JOIN US FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH OR DINNER! Enjoy Our Award Winning Breakfast Menu With Our Delicious Boozy Breakfast Cocktails & Chef Mehmet© s Whole Roasted Lamb. Lunch: Tues-Fri :: Dinner: Tues-Sun :: Sunday Brunch Wine Flights: Tues-Wed :: Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for Private Parties and Catering

Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (Small Plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com

Now in the Central West End An Oil & Vinegar Emporium Help us to welcome our newest Extra Virgin Olive Oils...Including three big winners at the New York International Olive Oil Competition. Including oils from Italy, Spain, Sicily, Greece and California Shop with us for your gourmet salt, pasta and seasoning needs. Check Website for Class Availability • diolivas.com West County 118 West County Center St. Louis, MO 63131 (P) 314.909.1171

St. Charles 617 S Main St St Charles, MO 63301 (P) 636.724.8282

Central West End 115 N. Euclid between West Pine and Lindell

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201 Montelle Drive • Augusta, MO 63332 • 888.595.WINE • www.Montelle.com Award-Winning Wines | Breathtaking Views | Exquisite Sunset Dinners | Live Music Weekends

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| 63 |

pour it on

Discover the regional styles of all-American barbecue sauce.

| 71 |

the kings of kansas city

Explore the storied history, legacy and evolution of KC barbecue.

| 80 |

st. lou legend

The Brantley family carries on a 54-year barbecue tradition.

| 90 |

a piggy’s paradise

At Paradise Locker Meats in Trimble, Missouri, the Fantasma family processes some of the best pork in the country. PhoTo oF A sPrEAD oF MEnu iTEMs FroM C&K BArBECuE in sT. Louis By juLiA CALLEo


promotion

farmers s’ market

Cocktails

ProPagator

Punch

Serves | 4 |

assembly

9 oz till Vodka 3 oz rhum agricole 4½ oz watermelon-jasmine tea syrup (recipe below) juice of 5 fresh limes, totaling 4½ oz thinly sliced lime wheels (for garnish) jumbo ice cubes

Watermelon-Jasmine tea syruP

12 oz simple syrup 1 tsp big Heart tea Co. Karma Chamomileon tea 3 oz (about 6 big chunks) fresh watermelon

| PreParation – assembly | photography by sarah conroy

In a serving pitcher or bowl filled with ice, combine all ingredients except garnish. Stir. To serve, add 1 jumbo ice cube each to 4 punch glasses, pour punch and garnish with a lime wheel.

| PreParation – Watermelon-Jasmine tea syruP |

In a saucepan, combine all ingredients; simmer for 10 minutes. Fine strain to remove tea leaves. In a blender, pour strained contents and pulse until watermelon is blended. Set aside.

Look for Farmers’ Market Cocktails under the Recipes tab on feastmagazine.com to watch Tim make a batch of his Propagator Punch.

tim Wiggins Beverage Director, Retreat Gastropub

st. louis, mo

Tim Wiggins created Propagator Punch, perfect for a late-summer party, based on the seasonal ingredients that complement till Vodka’s nuances. “Till Vodka is full-bodied, it’s creamy and it has a vibrant backbone while still being soft,” he says. “It’s grassy, a little green, but really fresh – I immediately thought of watermelon.” The punch can be easily batched – it’s only four ingredients – and is very refreshing. “It’s not super boozy or going to weigh you down,” he says. “All you have to do is combine the ingredients, stir and it’s ready to go.”

tillvodka.com; @tillvodka retreat Gastropub 6 N. Sarah St., St. Louis, Missouri, retreatgastropub.com Till Distilling Company, Atchison, Kansas. ABV. Enjoy Responsibly. 62 feastmagazine.com septem ber 2 040% 17

Seasonal Ingredients

Watermelon, limes and jasmine tea “Whether it’s 110°F or 75°F, fresh watermelon atermelon and vvodka go well together it’s delicious,” – the punch is crisp, it’s refreshing, it’ss summery and it’ atermelon from the historic Soulard Wiggins says. He used fresh watermelon et, steeped in simple syrup with a chamomileFarmers Market, esque tea blend with organic jasmine from Big Heart Tea wer Co., a local artisan tea retailer that sells at the Tow ants Grove Farmers’ Market as well as local restaurants like Retreat Gastropub. “Till Vodka works so well in the Propagator Punch because it’s a blank canvas,” Wiggins says. “It’s clean and fresh, so the watermelon works well with it, and the aromatics of the tea highlight the earthiness of the odka is. I think watermelon and how green the vodk the punch is a representation of all the orm.” nuances of Till Vodka in cocktail form.


a look at the regional styles of all-american barbecue sauce STOry ANd rECIPES By CAThErINE NEVIllE PhOTOgrAPhy By JACklyN MEyEr

W

hat we know collectively as barbecue today was born of a centuries-old cultural collision: Spanish conquistadors’ European pigs and the indirect-heat cooking style favored by indigenous peoples living in the Caribbean and Florida. Barbecue sauce, a more modern culinary development, is intended to enhance (never overpower) the flavor of meat – traditionally pork, but in some parts of the country, beef or chicken or even mutton – that’s been cooked for a very long time over a low fire. (And contrary to popular belief, grilling is not barbecue. It’s an entirely different cooking style that involves high, direct heat rather than barbecue’s low and slow approach.) Some regions of the U.S. forgo sauce entirely, but for most, sauce is an integral part of the experience of eating barbecue, and evolved as the cooking style’s popularity spread across the American South. The history of barbecue and the sauces created to accompany slow-smoked meats pulled from pits across the South reflects cultural and culinary migration across the continent. Vinegar is the unifying ingredient in each barbecue sauce, but it’s the tweaks those pitmasters made, starting from the first, elemental North Carolina vinegar-and-pepper mop sauce, that distinguishes each region’s saucy flavor. Barbecue is distinctly American and distinctly Southern, but this cooking tradition is gaining followers across the world as well. Today, barbecue is heating up cities such as Paris, Brussels and Melbourne, Australia, with newly converted barbecue enthusiasts learning how to coax ideal flavor and tenderness from cuts of meat over a low and slow fire. One can only wonder – and hope to taste – how our all-American barbecue sauces will continue to evolve as other cultures contribute to this rich and diverse culinary tradition.

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North Carolina

In North Carolina, where many food scholars believe the use of barbecue sauce made its debut during the Colonial era, there are two main styles: Eastern and Lexington, or Western-style. Eastern-style sauce is made with vinegar and pepper, and Eastern-style barbecue is whole hog, where cuts from the entire pig are chopped together after cooking. Lexington-style “dip,” on the other hand, includes a dose of ketchup and is used mainly on pork shoulder. Which style is best is a topic of heated debate in North Carolina, but the state’s original barbecue sauce was the Eastern version, with Lexington being developed after the introduction of ketchup as an American condiment. One thing to note: Eastern-style sauce is often used as a mop sauce to baste the hog while it’s cooking. It’s also served as a dip on the side. Both styles of North Carolina sauce can be found drizzled on barbecued pork that’s been piled on a soft white hamburger bun, dressed with a scoop of vinegary slaw.

north carolina eastern-style mop sauce Some traditional recipes include butter (or even lard) in this style of sauce, giving it a rich, silky texture that helps pork retain moisture. If you’d like to add fat to this recipe or the Lexington-style version below, just heat the sauce ingredients along with a stick of unsalted butter until the butter melts, stirring to combine. 2 1 1 2 1 2

cups apple cider vinegar tsp hot sauce, plus more to taste Tbsp red pepper flakes Tbsp dark brown sugar Tbsp sea salt tsp freshly ground black pepper

| preparation | Stir all ingredients together in a bowl (or shake in a jar) until sugar and salt have dissolved. Allow to stand at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.

north carolina lexington-style dip 1½ cups apple cider vinegar ½ cup water 1 Tbsp sea salt 1 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper ½ tsp cayenne pepper, plus more to taste 1 Tbsp red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp dark brown sugar ½ cup ketchup

| preparation | In a small saucepan, combine all ingredients and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer until sugar and salt have dissolved, stirring occasionally. Allow to cool and then pour into a jar, letting sauce rest for 6 to 12 hours. Sauce will become spicier as the red pepper flakes and cayenne pepper infuse the vinegar; the longer the sauce infuses, the spicier it will become.


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South Carolina

A bit to the south, mustard is added to the Carolina region’s vinegar-focused sauces. Thanks to the influence of South Carolina’s German immigrants, the spicy, complex condiment lends its heat and bite to local recipes. You can find a number of sauces on offer in the state, including sweet tomato-based varieties, but South Carolina is famous for its tangy mustard-based sauces, many of which include sugar to balance the acidity. As with all traditional Southern barbecue, pork is what’s on the plate here, not beef; you’ll find it chopped, pulled or sliced, served up with a slice of white bread and a squirt bottle of sauce on the side.

south carolina-style mustard sauce ¾ ¾ 1 1½ 2

cup yellow mustard cup apple cider vinegar Tbsp light brown sugar Tbsp unsalted butter sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Tbsp Worcestershire sauce hot sauce, to taste

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| preparation | In a saucepan over medium-high

heat, combine all ingredients and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 30 minutes.

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Alabama

As you move west into Tennessee and Alabama, barbecue sauces continue to change, reflecting generations of adaptation by local pitmasters. Parts of Alabama favor vinegary sauces akin to those from the Carolinas, or the tomato-tinged sauces found in Memphis, but in the northern part of the state, creamy mayonnaise-based sauces reign. There’s some debate as to the recipe’s origins: The general consensus is that Big Bob Gibson, who was a pitmaster in Decatur, Alabama, created the sauce in 1925, although there are some skeptics. Yet ’cue-lovers agree that this style of sauce was created to maintain optimal juiciness and enhance the flavor of smoky barbecued chicken. Today, people drizzle it on pulled pork shoulder as well, but back in the day, chicken legs, thighs and breasts were “baptized” in a bath of the stuff.

alabama-style white sauce 1 1 4 2 1 ¼ 1

cup mayonnaise Tbsp prepared horseradish tsp apple cider vinegar tsp yellow or stone-ground mustard tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp granulated sugar garlic clove, minced hot sauce, to taste

| preparation | In a large bowl, combine all ingredients. Taste, adjust seasoning if desired and serve.


Tennessee

Heading up to Tennessee, you’ll find nuanced tomato-based sauces. The state is also home to paprika-spiked rubs, which are central to creating Memphis-style dry-rubbed ribs. The rub is applied prior to a long, slow smoke, and as the ribs’ fat breaks down, it mingles with the spices, creating a crust on the surface of the meat. In Memphis, pork ribs are most common, although chopped pork shoulder is beloved, too, and barbecue sauce is often served on the side (and sometimes not at all). When a sauce is served, it’s typically a vinegar-ketchup-mustard hybrid with a slight sweetness and a hint of heat. The sauce is thinner and tangier than its cousins in the Midwest, and completely optional, unlike the predominately wet style of barbecue found in Kansas City and St. Louis.

memphis-style barbecue sauce 2 1 3 1 ½ ¹⁄₃ ²⁄₃ 2 2 1 ½ ½ 1 2

Tbsp unsalted butter small yellow onion, diced cloves garlic, minced 15-oz can tomato sauce cup apple cider vinegar cup white balsamic vinegar cup dark brown sugar, packed Tbsp molasses Tbsp Worcestershire sauce tsp sea salt freshly ground black pepper, to taste tsp cayenne pepper, plus more to taste tsp celery seed Tbsp yellow mustard tsp hot sauce, plus more to taste

Kentucky Still farther north, in western Kentucky, mutton is traditionally served. Not to be confused with lamb (or even goat), mutton is the meat of an adult sheep that’s more than a year old. Wool production increased in this part of the country after the Tariff of 1816 was passed, protecting U.S. businesses from overseas competition. This suddenly made wool more profitable, and the trade flourished. After the sheep aged and no longer gave high-quality wool, they were destined for the dinner table. Not typically found on American plates, mutton has a strong flavor and tough texture that benefits from a long, slow smoke and a sharp, vinegary, warmly spiced sauce. The region’s “black vinegar” sauce doesn’t contain actual black vinegar, which is an East Asian condiment. Rather, the inky color comes from a healthy dose of Worcestershire sauce, an anchovy funk that matches mutton deliciously. Notable in the following recipe is the lack of chiles: Unlike other barbecue sauces, the only heat found in Kentucky’s black vinegar sauce is from freshly ground black pepper.

kentucky black vinegar sauce 2 1 ½ ¼ ¼ 1 3 ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ 1

tsp grapeseed oil small yellow onion, minced cup Worcestershire sauce cup distilled white vinegar cup water Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice Tbsp brown sugar tsp ground allspice tsp ground cloves tsp ground nutmeg tsp onion powder tsp freshly ground black pepper tsp sea salt

| preparation | In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat oil. Add onion and sauté until just golden. Add remaining ingredients and increase to high heat. Bring to a boil, and then reduce heat to allow sauce to simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool slightly and then strain out onion if desired.

| preparation | In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. When butter is sizzling, add onion and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook onion until it just turns golden, then add garlic, and stir until fragrant. Add tomato sauce, vinegars, brown sugar and molasses, and stir until sugar has dissolved. Add remaining ingredients, stir and allow to simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, and blend until smooth using an immersion blender, or in the bowl of a standard blender.

Best sauce on the Planet Vinegar, Mild Tomato, Hot Tomato, Mustard, Specialty: Those are the five categories that have been established in the annual American Royal World Series of Barbecue Sauce Contest. One sauce out of all of the winners is crowned Best Sauce on the Planet each year. In the late ’70s, Rich Davis, a piano prodigy-turned-child psychiatrist, created K.C. Soul Style BBQ Sauce (the now-famous brand KC Masterpiece), delivering bottles of the sauce to stores in his station wagon. He won Best Sauce on the Planet at the very first American Royal Barbecue Contest in 1980, and sold his sauce company to Kingsford Products Co., a division of Clorox, in 1986. Today, the sauce can be found on grocery-store shelves across the U.S. This year, there were 606 entries in the sauce contest, coming in from 43 states and 13 countries. More than 150 additional entries were submitted this year than in 2016, reflecting the growing worldwide love of barbecue and its accompanying sauces. A panel of 70 judges certified by the organization evaluated the entries, and it was a vinegar sauce called Frog Sauce from Rob’s Smokin’ Rub in San Joaquin County, California, that won Best Sauce on the Planet. “I got a phone call at 20 to 7am on a workday morning, saw that it was from Kansas City, Missouri, and knew that they were releasing the results that day,” says Rob Ryan, creator of Frog Sauce. “I thought the news was going to be either really good or really bad.”

It was good – really good. Ryan’s Sweet & Tangy had taken ninth place in the Vinegar category, his Sweet Chipotle took third and his signature Frog Sauce took first place in the same category. Not only that, but Frog Sauce scored high enough to beat out the winners of the other categories, officially making it the Best Sauce on the Planet. The sauce is about 60 percent white distilled vinegar and “has a unique flavor, some Worcestershire sauce. There’s no high-fructose corn syrup, just plain white sugar and lots of black pepper,” he says. “It has a black-pepper spiciness that’s bold up front, but doesn’t burn your taste buds and overwhelm the flavor of the barbecue.” If you’re wondering about the name, Ryan’s first recipe was for a rub, and one evening, while drinking with friends, they decided to make the logo for his new brand a tree frog because, well, when you apply a rub to meat, you “rub-it, rub-it.” The logo stuck, and when Ryan introduced his first sauce, it was named Frog Sauce. And why are all three of Ryan’s sauces vinegar-based? Because “all of the sauces on the standard grocery shelf are tomato-based,” he says. “I wanted to create something different, something you can’t buy at the store. Using a vinegar-based sauce provides that zing on your taste buds that makes you say, 'Wow!'” Asked what impact his success has had, Ryan, a seasoned competitive barbecuer who also has developed a line of rubs, laughs. “More and more people are using my stuff and competing with it and winning against me in barbecue competitions,” he says. “People try to hide it from me at their table, and I just smile and let them know it’s OK. People are winning with my sauce!” robssmokinrub.com

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Texas

Even farther west, in Texas, beef is king. Here, cattle range on vast, open plains, and beef is the most popular type of meat at local barbecue joints, although pork and chicken also are found. Typically, when people refer to Texas barbecue, they’re referring to central Texas-style barbecue, which is brisket-focused. Salt and pepper are the only seasonings to be found on traditional Lone Star State ’cue, and traditionalists eat the tender smoked meat with their hands. Historically, Texas barbecue purists refuse offers of sauce, saying it masks the beef’s beefiness. Vinegar still plays a role in tempering the meat’s fattiness, though. Here, barbecue is served with tangy pickles, raw onions and slices of sweet white bread.

barbecued meat and sides from salt + smoke and bogart’s smokehouse, both in the st. louis area, were featured in the photos for this story.

basic quick pickles If you’d like to add to this recipe, play around with garlic cloves, fresh dill fronds, mustard seeds, black peppercorns or any other herbs and spices you wish. Just put them in the jar with the raw vegetables before you add the hot brine. 2 ½ ½ 1 1 4

cups thinly sliced cucumber, fennel or any other veggie suitable for pickling cup apple cider vinegar cup distilled white vinegar cup water tsp sea salt Tbsp granulated or brown sugar, or more to taste

| preparation | Add thinly sliced vegetables to a heat-proof canning jar. In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat vinegars and water with salt and sugar until simmering and pour over veggie slices. Allow to sit until at room temperature, about 30 minutes, and then serve or refrigerate.

Editor’s NotE: Barbecue reigns supreme in the South. You can find pitmasters standing over smoldering hardwoods from Missouri to the East Coast and into Texas and Florida. Not all states lay claim to the creation of a signature style of sauce, however. This article focuses on unique styles of barbecue sauce and where they came from, with the understanding that there are many, many regional variations and that the American barbecue tradition has proudly spread across the country.


Missouri

In Missouri, sweet heat takes center stage. Memphis-style sauce is the parent of the thick, sugar-tinged sauces favored here. Memphis recipes traveled up the Mississippi River, including one brought along by a man named Henry Perry, who moved to Kansas City in 1907 from a town near Memphis. (Perry founded the restaurant that eventually became Arthur Bryant’s; for a history of the Kansas City barbecue community, turn to p. 71.) This region’s thick, sweet sauce is typically drizzled (or, more frequently, slathered) directly on whatever’s been barbecued. Because Kansas City and St. Louis were both major geographic crossroads, that could be pork, beef or chicken. Likewise, sauce styles from every barbecue-loving region of the U.S. can be found in Missouri, but it’s the Memphis-influenced sauce that dominates. This style of sauce was bottled by St. Louisan Louis Maull in 1926, and then by H.J. Heinz Co. and Kraft Foods in the mid-20th century, with KC Masterpiece following in the ’70s. The nationwide proliferation of bottled Missouri-style sauce is the reason many Americans consider it to be the ideal barbecue sauce, even though this is the most recent style to have emerged.

missouri-style barbecue sauce 3 1 5 2 1 2 2 2 ½ 2 ¹⁄₃ 1 ¹⁄₃ ¹⁄₃ 1 1 1

Tbsp grapeseed oil medium yellow onion, finely diced cloves garlic, minced Tbsp tomato paste Tbsp chile powder tsp onion powder tsp mustard powder tsp cayenne pepper tsp ground nutmeg pinch ground clove cups ketchup cup molasses cup water cup brown sugar cup apple cider vinegar Tbsp Worcestershire sauce Tbsp sea salt Tbsp soy sauce

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| preparation | In a medium

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S

mack-dab in the middle of the very first edition of The Kansas City Star (then called The Kansas City Evening Star), published on Sept. 18, 1880, is a story with the prophetic headline “The Grand Barbecue.” According to the article, those early Kansas Citians were so elated at the completion of a long-delayed railroad connection that they held a parade, which culminated with a “grand old fashioned barbecue” attended by more than 3,000 citizens, and “celebrated in a manner and style peculiarly characteristic of Kansas City pluck and enterprise.” Barbecue had long been a part of America’s civic culture. If you wanted to feed a large group of people, barbecuing whole animals was an efficient and delicious way to do so. On July 3, 1869, Kansas Citians celebrated the historic opening of the Hannibal Bridge – the first permanent railroad bridge to cross the Missouri River – with a parade and a barbecue. Accounts of the event describe how the public, having endured seemingly endless orations by long-winded politicians, “attacked the tables” once the speechifying was concluded. (The Hannibal Bridge, in fact, was the critical link among railroad lines that helped create a hub that led to the Kansas City stockyards in 1871.)

The sheer volume of livestock consumed at these celebrations can be surprising to those of us reading the history today. For example, in October 1876, now-defunct The Kansas City Times published the following notice encouraging readers to attend a large public barbecue:

After the Civil War, many freed slaves left the defeated Confederacy. Kansas City was a logical destination: Located on the far northwestern edge of what was then considered the South, it had become a thriving river and rail hub with a flourishing meatpacking industry. There were jobs to be had and the promise of a new life. These new Kansas City residents brought with them their culinary traditions, and the city’s love of barbecue became, for many, a way to make a living or earn additional income. It was during this period that local barbecue culture began to change. The style of cooking that had primarily been associated with large civic celebrations slowly became a commercial enterprise, one that took root in the city’s 18th and Vine Jazz District. This area of Kansas City, just east of downtown, was a place full of jazz and barbecue and is considered one of the country’s most historically significant birthplaces of jazz.

It’s no wonder barbecue took root in late19th-century Kansas City culture. First, meat was inexpensive and plentiful thanks to the city’s stockyards. Second, although Missouri is not generally classified as a Southern state today and was a border state during the Civil War, it was also considered a part of the South, as maps from the period definitively show. With the ready supply of pork and beef close at hand and the prevalence of hardwood trees, the Southern tradition of barbecue found a home in Kansas City. TOp pHOTO OF ARTHuR BRyAnT’S pROVIDeD By MATT CLOuD/THOuGHTS On DeCK BOTTOM pHOTO OF THe HAnnIBAL BRIDGe pROVIDeD By THe LIne CReeK LOuDMOuTH

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In 1907, Henry Perry, a native of the Memphis area, arrived in Kansas City. He was in his early 30s and, since he was 15, had been earning his way in the world as a cook on riverboats steaming up and down the Mississippi River. He began plying his trade in an alley at the corner of Eighth and Banks streets, in Kansas City’s Garment District, selling barbecue from a stand. Such was the humble beginning of a barbecue legacy that continues to this day. the fathers of kansas city barbecue

Within five years of his arrival in Kansas City, Perry went from selling meat from his alley stand to operating a restaurant, moving what had been dubbed Perry’s Barbecue to 17th Street and Lydia Avenue, and then, in the 1920s, to 19th Street and Highland Avenue. Situated in the bustling 18th and Vine District, Perry served his ’cue from an old barn that previously housed trolley cars. This was during the height of Prohibition, the roaring Pendergast era when Kansas City was known as the Paris of the Plains. The neighborhood was hot with jazz and barbecue, a recipe that made the district thrive.

PHOTO Of ARTHuR BRyANT’S EXTERIOR PROVIDED By MATT CLOuD/THOuGHTS ON DECK; PHOTO Of NEWSPAPER AD AND BARBECuE SAuCE PROVIDED By ARTHuR BRyANT’S

Perry’s sauce was considered “harsh and peppery,” a fiery concoction that was much more vinegar-forward and spicy than the style of sauce Kansas City is known for today. Perry pit-smoked his meats, which included pork ribs and beef along with wild game such as opossum and raccoon, directly over smoldering hickory and oak, and he served everything wrapped in sheets of newsprint. At the time, the barbecue scene was growing, and there were many competitors entering the market with newfangled barbecue ovens, but Perry stuck with tradition in the face of so-called progress. He was quoted in an article in The Call, a Kansas City newspaper, as saying, “There is only one way to cook barbecue and that is the way I am doing it, over a wood fire, with a properly constructed oven and pit.” By 1932, when Perry was interviewed for the article, The Call wrote that there were “more than a thousand barbecue stands” in the city.

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When Perry died in 1940, he owned three prosperous and popular barbecue restaurants in Kansas City. One of these, which was referred to as Perry’s #2, was managed by a Texas transplant named Charlie Bryant, whose younger brother, Arthur, came to work at the restaurant after college. When Perry died, he left Charlie the restaurant that he’d been managing. When Charlie retired in 1946, Arthur took over and reworked Perry’s sauce recipe to make it less fiery and more widely appealing. In 1972, well-known journalist and food writer Calvin Trillin, a Kansas City native, wrote an article for Playboy extolling the virtues of Kansas City restaurants. He spoke with Arthur Bryant, who said Perry “used to enjoy watching his customers take their first bite of a sauce that he made too hot for any human being to eat without eight or 10 years of working up to it.”

Bryant also renamed the enterprise after himself. Arthur Bryant’s joint became a favorite of performers such as Count Basie (who reportedly spat on his ribs to keep his bandmates from eating them while he was performing), Jack Nicholson and Robert Redford as well as politicians, including former President Harry S. Truman, who frequented the “grease house” on a regular basis. In Trillin’s widely read Playboy essay, in which he praised Kansas City burgers and barbecue, he wrote that “the best restaurants in the world are, of course, in Kansas City. Not all of them; only the top four or five.” He referenced Arthur Bryant’s specifically, calling the beloved spot only “the single best restaurant in the world.” Trillin went on to write extensively about Bryant’s burnt ends, the crispy, caramelized edges of smoked brisket that

have since become Kansas City’s signature contribution to the national barbecue tradition, providing context for their origin and referring to them as “burned edges”:


PHOTOS Of Ol’ KeNTUCK BAR-B-Q PROVIDeD BY GATeS & SON’S BAR-B-Q

PICTURED ThIs PagE: Original Ol’ Kentuck Bar-B-Q menu and George, Arzelia and Ollie Gates at the first Ol’ Kentuck Bar-B-Q location in 1946. A second location opened at 12th Street and Brooklyn Avenue in 1958.

Bryant’s popularity surged to new heights, becoming a destination for tourists and celebrities (and they started charging for those burnt ends). When Arthur Bryant died in 1982, the restaurant nearly went under, but was ultimately sold by Bryant’s niece, Doretha Bryant, to Bill Rauschelbach and Gary Berbiglia, who kept it running strong – and virtually unchanged. Today, Arthur’s tweaked version of Henry Perry’s sauce, a grainy, orange-hued, vinegar-based dip with tomato and hints of curry powder, paprika, chile and meat drippings, can still be had, along with the new Sweet Heat and Rich & Spicy varieties developed by Berbiglia, who sold his interest in the company to Rauschelbach in 2014. As fate would have it, 1946 was a momentous

year in Kansas City barbecue history. Not only was it when Arthur Bryant took over his brother’s joint, but it was also the year George Gates and his wife, Arzelia, bought Ol’ Kentuck Bar-B-Q, a run-down little place at the corner of 19th and Vine streets in the same 18th and Vine Jazz District. Bryant’s was located nearby at 1727 Brooklyn Ave., just blocks away from Municipal Stadium, where Kansas City’s professional baseball and football teams – including the Kansas City Chiefs and the former Kansas City Athletics – played. When visiting teams and sportscasters came to Kansas City, they were captivated by the aroma of smoking brisket, pork butts, ribs and sausage. They then returned home and reported on their sampling of Kansas Citystyle barbecue, and the city’s reputation began to spread. George’s son, Ollie Gates, current

owner and chief executive officer of Gates & Son’s Bar-B-Q, credits those radio announcers with spreading the gospel of Kansas City ‘cue far and wide. “When the wind was blowing just right, it would permeate the air with those aromas from the smoking pits,” Ollie says. “Once the announcers figured out where those odors were coming from, then we started carrying it up to the ballpark and letting them taste it. And so they took word of it back to wherever they were coming from – Minnesota or New York – and that’s what really started the idea of ‘Kansas City barbecue.’” George Gates initially bought the restaurant for its liquor license, intending to turn it into a tavern. But Mrs. Gates was a devout Methodist and disapproved of whiskey, so the

barbecue became the emphasis. A man named Arthur Pinkard, who learned the art of barbecue from none other than Henry Perry himself, was working at Ol’ Kentuck when it was purchased and stayed on to run the pits and teach George and Ollie Gates everything he knew. “When Dad bought the restaurant from a guy by the name of Johnny Thomas, [Pinkard] was a part of the fixtures that came with the restaurant,” Ollie says. “He was an integral part.” Ollie was in high school when his father bought the restaurant, and he grew up working alongside him. “I was the head dishwasher, toilet-cleaner-upper, floor-mopper, basic cleaner, wood-carrier to the pits. That’s what I was,” he laughs. In 1956, after college and a stint in the U.S. Army, he began actively working for the family business, and its name

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PHOTOS OF OL’ KeNTuCK BAR-B-Q PROVIDeD BY GATeS & SON’S BAR-B-Q; PHOTO OF THe 1950 AMeRICAN ROYAL PROVIDeD BY THe KANSAS CITY PuBLIC LIBRARY

PICTURED ThIs PagE: The original Gates Bar-B-Q restaurant in 1948 and the front entrance of the 1950 American Royal.

was changed to Gates & Sons Bar-B-Q. Today Gates serves ribs, beef, ham, chicken, sausage and mutton, and is internationally famous for its “Hi! May I help you?” customer service, which can be traced back to a noisy door spring. “We had an old, screechy screen door in our first restaurant,” Ollie recalls. “That door would screech open, and I could hear when somebody was coming in. I’d jump up from the counter where I was sitting, reading comic books, and say hello to people. And then my dad fixed the door so it didn’t make any screechy sound. He snuck up on me and slapped me in the back of my head and said, ‘See there? You’re not aware.’ And so, from there on out, I watched the door, and as people came, I’d say hi to them. That’s where, ‘Hi! May I help you?’ came from.” Just as famous as its hospitality is Gates & Son’s barbecue sauce, which has a tomato base enhanced with vinegar, of course, but also a secret blend of spices and other seasonings, “and some love,” Ollie says. The Original is the flavor that Ollie’s parents created, and it remains his favorite sauce to this day and the restaurant’s No. 1 sauce. “It’s indescribably delicious,” Ollie says. “It has a tomato base and you can’t taste the tomato. It has heat that’s not hot. It has a flavor that gives you a combination of spices that when you taste it, it’s appealing but not sweet.” Ollie and three of his five children now preside

over an empire of six barbecue restaurants (although the original location at 19th and Vine streets is no more). “[My children are] at that point now [where] it’s up to them to continue the business,” Ollie says. “Since they’ve got the tiger by the tail, they need to run with it [and] to continue to serve the community.” Cultivating Dreams

Today, of course, Kansas City is home to the American Royal, a nonprofit that debuted in 1899 as the National Hereford Show. Featuring 541 registered head of Hereford cattle, the event was held in a tent in the Kansas City stockyards and attracted around 55,000 attendees in that first year. Dubbed the American Royal in 1902 as a nod to the British Royal Agricultural Fair, the annual event grew to include horses, hogs, sheep and goats. The organization’s annual rodeo debuted in 1949 (it took a hiatus between 1951 and 1965), and the barbecue competition followed in 1980.

pounds of barbecue meat,” she says. “They could cook beef, pork or lamb. Only one cut of meat per contestant could be submitted for judging. They were judged on a scale of one (not for me) to 10 (super excellent) and it was on appearance, taste, aroma and texture. In 1985, it had quickly grown to 70 contestants and required 72 judges to determine the winner.” Last year, the Royal hosted more than 560 teams from around the world, with 20 international teams from 11 different countries among the competitors. “This is the world’s largest barbecue competition,” Parman continues. “This is their professional sport. If they receive recognition or placement in a category, it can make a significant impact on their dreams. Those dreams may be their barbecue catering business, the new restaurant they want to open or the barbecue sauce they want to launch. It gives them so much credibility to say that they’ve won something at the American Royal. It cultivates dreams. If they are judged to be one of the best, it’s transformational to that barbecue team.”

The organization is very active in the Kansas City community, focused on scholarships, educational programs and community outreach. “We have an education mission,” says president and chief executive officer Lynn Parman. “We contribute over a million dollars a year in scholarships as well as supporting our agriculture education programs.” But it’s the barbecue competition that has made the American Royal internationally famous. “The first barbecue had 15 to 30 cooks, and they were required to cook a minimum of 10 Inspired Local Food Culture

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Take Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que, which was born on the competitive barbecue circuit, an extension of Slaughterhouse Five, a team that has won dozens of Grand Championships around the country. Opened in 1996 as Oklahoma Joe’s by Jeff and Joy Stehney with now-former partner Joe Don Davidson of Oklahoma Joe’s Smoker Co., the restaurant very quickly started showing up on all the shortlists of best barbecue joints in Kansas City. Then it started showing up on all the short lists of best barbecue joints in America. In 2009, Joe’s showed up on celebrity chef and best-selling author Anthony Bourdain’s list of “Thirteen Places to Eat before You Die.” In 2013, USA Today declared Joe’s ribs to be “America’s tastiest.” Joe’s signature sandwich, the Z-Man, has been named one of the 50 essential American sandwiches by Thrillist. Joe’s now has three locations in the Kansas City area (and renamed itself Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que in 2014) and is world-famous not only for its smoked meats but also for its long lines. Slaughterhouse Five competes at the American Royal and other contests to this day. The team was most recently crowned Grand Champion in 2016 at the Maryland State Championship and Grand Champion in 2016 and 2017 at the Kansas State Championship.

PHOTOS OF SluGHTERHOuSE FIvE AND THE Z-MAN PROvIDED BY JOE’S KANSAS CITY BAR-B-Q; PHOTO OF ROB MAGEE PROvIDED BY Q39

“You’ve got the Royals, you’ve got Sporting Kansas City, you’ve got the Chiefs and you’ve got barbecue,” Parman says. “People are proud to say they’re from Kansas City. They’re proud when people say, ‘You’ve got great barbecue.’ Barbecue has become iconic in Kansas City, and probably largely due to the American Royal and the teams, restaurants and catering businesses that were born as a result.” Another game-changing restaurant born of the competitive barbecue circuit is Q39, which is owned and operated by Rob Magee, a graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America. Magee captained Munchin’ Hogs, a very successful competition-barbecue team that won, among other awards, 52 Grand Champion titles at dozens of contests across the country, all while serving as executive chef at the Hilton in Kansas City. “I honed in on my rubs and sauces, which helped catapult me into one of the best teams in the nation,” Magee says. “We kept winning and winning. My first year was three contests, and we ended up doing 42 contests a year – 42 a year, and I still have the same wife. I figured if she can handle that, she can handle me opening a restaurant.” Magee’s approach at Q39 melds traditional Kansas City barbecue with the current desire for scratch-made sauces and sides with chef-driven flavors. “The fun thing of what’s happening today is the spin-offs of the sandwiches and the entrées [beyond the competition-style plates],” he says. “We have a smoked fried chicken with chipotle-cilantro sauce. Instead of coming into a barbecue restaurant and getting a smoked half-chicken, which we do also serve, now you get something fun and whimsical. We just put on the menu smoked pork belly and sausage corn dogs with barbecue sauce and maple syrup. The cuisine of barbecue is getting elevated, and people

in the city enjoy that because we take pride in our barbecue.” The restaurant has been so popular, in fact, that a second location opened in Overland Park, Kansas, in August. During barbecue’s formative years in the early and mid-20th century, everything was made from scratch. People didn’t cook any other way. In the ’80s and ’90s, however, pre-made convenience foods entered the market and soon, slaw was being scooped out of a bucket instead of being chopped fresh in the kitchen. Thankfully, that’s falling out of favor. “The expectations of the customer today are different than what they were in the past,” Magee says. “They want better and better food, and they should, because they deserve it.” At last count, there were at least 100 barbecue restaurants in the greater Kansas City area, and tomatoey-thick, spicy-sweet, molasses-spiked Kansas City barbecue sauce is the most popular and widely imitated style across the country. “I think Kansas City produces the best barbecue sauces in the nation,” Magee says. “I think we really understand what the words fruit and sweet and spicy mean, which can bundle up into good sauces that pair very well with all types of barbecue. Because of that, when you apply it to ribs, you taste the sauce, the rub and the meat.” Near the end of that front-page article in the very first edition of The Kansas City Evening Star is a line that has succinctly summarized Kansas City’s attitude regarding barbecue for the past 137 years: “…a sumptuous feast of fat things is prepared for all that may come.” Magee couldn’t agree more. “Kansas City’s cuisine in the past five years has catapulted way up there,” he says. “We have great chefs doing great stuff here in Kansas City, and barbecue is on the same path as all the other restaurants. And I gotta tell ya, I’m proud to be part of it. Kansas City has the best barbecue in the nation.” EDITOR’s NOTE: Doug Worgul, author of the novel, Thin Blue Smoke, contributed research and writing to this story. He is also director of marketing at Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que.

Hungry for more Kansas City ‘cue? Visit feastmagazine.com for a list of must-try barbecue joints in and around the metro area, from local classics like LC’s BBQ to new hot spots like Char Bar.

PICTURED FROM TOP: Slaughterhouse Five competitive barbecue team; Joe’s signature sandwich, the Z-Man; Q39’s Rob Magee, captain of the Muchin’ Hogs competitive barbecue team. Inspired Local Food Culture

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Daryle Brantley, owner, C&K Barbecue


Daryle Brantley, owner of C&K Barbecue in St. Louis, got an education in local ‘cue at a young age. Growing up in St. Louis in the late 1950s, his grandfather, a Baptist minister, would take him to Q King at North Kingshighway Boulevard and St. Louis Avenue after church on Sundays. Brantley says Q King was hugely popular, especially after church service, because it was a dine-in restaurant. But in his opinion, the best barbecue could be found down the street from his grandmother’s house at Academy Barbecue.

Written by nancy StileS

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“I was a little-bitty guy,” he says with a laugh. “About a mile from Q King was a little lady who was making barbecue and selling it out of the window of an old four-family building. She had lines of people. Zero degree weather – lines two blocks. She had the best barbecue as far as I’m concerned. Ever. Then she passed, and along came Mr. King.” Although Brantley is now 66 years old himself, he still refers to Forris King as Mr. King. He has great respect for the man who opened C&K at Lee Avenue in Ferguson, Missouri, in the mid-1960s with his friend Ozvie Carr. “Dad’s barbecue roots are in Mississippi,” Carr’s son Freeman Ford told the St. Louis Post-Dispatch in 1982. “He did a lot of barbecuing down there, and when he moved up here about 20 years ago, he brought his family’s secret sauce recipe with him. My mom added to it.” Six months after opening C&K in Ferguson, King and Carr relocated to Carter and Newstead avenues, and within a year, King and his nephew opened a second location at Martin Luther King Drive and Goodfellow Boulevard. Brantley was a freshman in high school in 1966 when his mother first sent him around the corner to get barbecue from the original C&K. He knew the owner’s son, Mike King, from school, and they’re still friends today. After graduating high school, Brantley served a tour of duty in Vietnam with the U.S. Army. When he returned home, he married his childhood sweetheart, Janette, in 1972. By 1982, Brantley entered a business partnership with King, and made him a promise: “I believe in C&K so much, I’m going to give it everything I got. I told him, ‘We’re gonna put C&K everywhere.'" King replied, “Son, I wish you would.” It hasn’t exactly worked out that way – not yet, at least. Brantley did open a C&K on Jennings Station Road – the one still in business today – in 1983. You can still find him there serving rib tips, smoked wings and pig snoots slathered in Carr’s tangy yet sweet, tomatoey sauce, made with a vinegar base and infused with black pepper. The red-and-white storefront features a small counter, plastic menus and not much else outside of the kitchen – if you’re lucky you can snag the solitary red bistro table for two out on the sidewalk. The famous C&K sign features a red slab of ribs with utensils and the barbecue joint’s phone number – Brantley says he’s OK with updating the branding, as long as that hand-painted logo remains. Customers still queue up for the same messy pork steak and pulled pork sandwiches on white bread, topped with creamy potato salad and wrapped in brown butcher paper – just ask for it “ol’skool,” as the menu instructs. Inspired Local Food Culture

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In the first 10 years after Brantley took over, he served everything in that butcher paper, but eventually added plastic foam containers to cater to customers from big St. Louis-based companies like McDonnell Douglas who needed to go back to the office without a shirt covered in barbecue sauce. By 1987, the original two locations were closed, but Brantley had added two more, one in Ferguson and another on the 10000 block of Page Avenue, for a total of three. This period of expansion was possible due to Brantley’s growing clientele. St. Louis was booming in the ‘80s: McDonnell Douglas and Monsanto employed thousands of people in the St. Louis area, as did General Motors and Chrysler. The Ferguson and Page Avenue locations only lasted for about a year and a half each, but Brantley wasn’t deterred. As early as 1991, he got the original and hot versions of C&K’s barbecue sauce on local grocery-store shelves. “My dad was driven, passionate and really on fire in the ‘80s,” Brantley’s daughter, Jamila, says with a laugh. Brantley doesn’t dispute her description. “I’m a salesperson first and foremost, and C&K’s what I represent,” he says. “Sales teaches you, you have to love your customers. I know who takes care of my family, who put my grandkids through school. As long as I’m in business, I can’t get laid off. That’s why I jumped [on C&K].”

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Brantley will be the first to tell you that St. Louis has long been a barbecue town. However, in the past decade, the city has seen – as have cities across the country – something of a barbecue boom. Each new restaurant draws from different regional barbecue styles and traditions, and offers a distinct dining experience. Jamila believes there’s room and money for everyone, adding that when “you’ve been around for so long, you don’t really think about the competition. When you’re the model, you just stay consistent and focus on your vision and goal.” What you won’t find at these newer restaurants, though, are menu items like pig ears, fried tripe sandwiches and pig snoots “ol’skool.” The pig snoots at C&K – or snouts, as they're called here – aren’t quite what you’d expect. Instead of a literal pig snout on a plate, the nostrils are cut off, the meat is scored – Jamila says it’s really more like pig face, as they use the sides and cheeks as well, which is a traditional preparation – cooked until crispy and slathered in C&K’s pepper-infused sauce. The snoots at C&K have been well documented by groundbreaking food writers Jane and Michael Stern in their book Roadfood, which was first published in 1977. In the early 1980s, the Sterns were in St. Louis in search of the St. Paul sandwich for a subsequent edition of their book, and literally stumbled upon C&K. “I’m originally from Chicago, so I was aware that Midwestern cities had a really rich heritage of barbecue that’s very different from the barbecue you find in, say, Texas or North Carolina,” Michael Stern recalls. “And when we came across C&K, it was a revelation to us.”

"I©m originally from Chicago, so I was aware that Midwestern cities had a really rich heritage of barbecue that©s very different from the barbecue you find in, say, Texas or North Carolina," Michael stern recalls. "And when we came across C&K, it was a revelation to us." The Sterns met Brantley and tried, among other things, snoots, which they had never seen on a menu before. “I had to ask what they were, and he [just] said, ‘Snoots!’” Stern laughs. “For us, it was a fabulous discovery. We loved the taste and texture of the snoots, and the rough-around-the-edges spirit of C&K – as far from hipster and yuppie as a place could possibly be. And that was just so appealing, but the flavor of the food was tremendous.” In their 2009 book 500 Things to Eat Before It’s Too Late: And the Very Best Places to Eat Them, the Sterns delve into greater detail about the snoots at C&K. “Proud of serving every part of the pig 'from the rooter to the tooter,' this soulful destination makes a specialty of snoots, which are pig proboscides sliced into wieldy cutlets. They have a good crunch to their exterior, inside of which is something more like fat than meat. Not that there’s anything wrong with that – what’s better than hot pig fat? – but alone on a plate, snoots are overwhelming… . That’s where C&K’s thick red sauce springs into action. The hot stuff especially adds tang and a pepper punch that are a miracle pick-me-up for snoots, transforming something low on the hog into a barbecue parlor delicacy.” Inspired Local Food Culture

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"St. Louis-style ribs are defined by the way theyŠre cut. TheyŠre essentially manicured spareribs, with tips, sternum and cartilage removed. Taking away these parts results in a neatly shaped, rectangular rack that, if cooked properly, will produce uniformly tender meat." - Andrew Zimmern, Bizarre Foods

St. Louis-style ribs

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pig snoots

If snoots aren’t your thing, you can try the lunch special: fried tripe (for the uninitiated, tripe is the lining of a cow's stomach) sandwiched between white bread and topped with mustard, pickles, onions and hot sauce. Another specialty is the rib-tip sandwich with mustard, hot sauce, pickles and onions, made with the tender cartilage that is trimmed away when ribs are cut St. Louis-style. These trimmings are often discarded, which is a shame, because they’re delicious; C&K says it’s sold more than 3 million rib tips over the years. For the more adventurous, C&K also serves pigs’ ears. “When you get an ear, it looks like an ear,” Stern says with a laugh. The ears are stewed and served on a sandwich with C&K’s creamy potato salad, which has a consistency similar to mashed potatoes. The Sterns have visited C&K multiple times in the past 30-something years, and they believe it should receive just as much acclaim as any other local restaurant or culinary destination. As a 1990 Associated Press story published in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch attests, the Sterns have long sought out authentic regional American cuisine. “Not just food, but ‘food in its cultural context’ is what interests the Sterns, whose accounts whet appetites for the flavor of a disappearing America.” Stern says that's just as true today. “I tend to get annoyed when people in cities think barbecue is the trendy place,” he says. “In terms of connections to culinary heritage and the community, those places are pretty thin-seeming. Daryle and C&K seem to me as much a part of St. Louis as toasted ravioli.”

/

pig ears

“St. Louis-style ribs are defined by the way they’re cut. They’re essentially manicured spareribs, with tips, sternum and cartilage removed,” explains Andrew Zimmern in a 2015 episode of his Travel Channel show Bizarre Foods: Delicious Destinations featuring C&K. “Taking away these parts results in a neatly shaped, rectangular rack that, if cooked properly, will produce uniformly tender meat.” As Zimmern talks, Brantley deftly brushes a full rack of ribs with C&K’s famous sauce. Happy customers gleefully tear into the ribs before even leaving the carry-out counter. At the end of the segment, Brantley says, “C&K barbecue sauce is so much a part of me that I believe it’s in my veins.” After the episode first aired in 2015, the Brantleys got messages – and visitors – from all over the world. Jamila says business sees an uptick every time the episode airs; people make the trip from places as far-flung as Australia, Germany and South Africa. “It was crazy,” Jamila says. “All they know is ‘C&K’ and ‘barbecue.’ They’re on Google Translate to figure out what we’re gonna order for them.”

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Jamila and Daryle Brantley. But Bizarre Foods wasn’t the restaurant’s only brush with fame. Praise from O, The Oprah Magazine didn’t hurt either. The barbecue joint is also listed in the America the Great Cookbook alongside the likes of Dan Barber, David Chang and Mario Batali. Although C&K has long garnered local and national attention, this recent wave of acclaim happened after Jamila got involved in the family business. She worked in the sales and mortgage industries, including almost 10 years at Citigroup Inc., and operating her own mortgage company. Jamila never saw herself taking over C&K. “I was watching my mom and dad get up every day and go to work, and that bothered me,” she says. “My mom said, ‘Sales are down, and [we want] to save on payroll.'"

“Once she took over, she put her touch on the business,” Brantley says. “Jamila’s got the entrepreneur’s spirit like her dad; she’s a leader. She’s very mature, well read, aggressive and she just started making things happen. Her touch, my wife’s touch – I think that just enhances everything. She’s the future.” Jamila says she and her family thought about changing locations for a while, as people were having trouble getting to C&K – the Pine Lawn Police Department famously gave out more than 19,000 traffic tickets in a city of 3,419 in 2014 before being dissolved in 2016 – but ultimately, the Brantleys wanted to remain an anchor for the community. C&K also attracts tourists and customers from across the St. Louis area, and it’s important to the Brantleys to keep the business in Pine Lawn.

Brantley believes that as long as he and his family put the quality of the food first, that their customers will keep lining up at the walk-up window. “I’m going to give [customers] the best product I can,” he says. “I’m not going to cheat ‘em on portions; I’m not going to tweak my recipe to save money because sugar and pepper [prices] are going up. As long as I do that, we’ll always be king. That’s why we're still here.”

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Jamila decided to apply her business savvy to C&K and hopefully make life better for her parents – and for the restaurant’s bottom line. “I came back, and I applied that sales knowledge, and sales went up every quarter.” Originally, Brantley envisioned his oldest son Oz taking over C&K, but the one-time high school football star now lives in Dallas. Jamila, the second-oldest of his four children, took over managing C&K about four years ago.

“We’ve gotten so close with customers over the years that they literally come support my kids’ basketball and football games,” Jamila says. “They’re always shouting us out and letting their out-of-town guests know that you really haven’t visited St. Louis until you’ve been to C&K.”

The Sterns stopped by C&K again in 1998 in a rented minivan to update Roadfood – with a St. Louis Post-Dispatch reporter and photographer in tow. (Their trip was also published in the April 1999 issue of Gourmet magazine in their column, “Two for the Road.”) “Standing in the steamy storefront, fragrant with smoke and spice, Michael orders an ear sandwich, snouts (pronounced snoots) and rib tips. The clerk takes the order. ‘You see us in the Road book, right?’ he asks,” Judith Evans wrote in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch. “‘The Roadfood book?’ Michael asks. ‘Yep.’ ‘We wrote it.’” C&K wasn’t included in some editions of Roadfood because the Sterns hadn’t made it back in several years – new editions have been released about once every three years since 1977 – and weren’t sure if it was still open. To their delight, they stopped by about a year and a half ago and found it not only open, but thriving.

"I©m going to give [customers] the best product I can," brantley says. "I©m not going to cheat ©e m on portions; I©m not going to tweak my recipe to save money because sugar and pepper [prices] are going up. As long as I do that, we©ll always be king. that©s why were still here."

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“As we drove up, I was wondering if Daryle’s still there, because he was the guy we’d met 25 years ago," Stern says. "And we looked up, and there he was on the roof, making a repair. One of my fundamental beliefs is that hands-on presence of the owner [is what] makes a great restaurant at every level, whether you’re talking about the swankiest four-star restaurant or C&K – the fact that the owner is there not only supervising the kitchen but making repairs on his roof, you know this is a business that somebody is taking very seriously. And sure enough, the food was as delicious as I remembered it.” Today the Brantley family is excited about another new building improvement: The addition of a deck over the C&K parking lot, where customers can sit down, eat and stay awhile. Soon they’ll launch a new and improved website for C&K, too. “C&K will be around long after I’m gone; I can promise you that,” Brantley says. “We had our 45th [wedding] anniversary – they threw us a surprise party day before yesterday. We had a great time. Then I find out Jamila closed the store at 7pm on a Saturday! But I was happy. I love my family. Being married 45 years to the same woman? I’m so happy. That’s a beautiful thing. I’m so grateful and thankful. ” Father and daughter would like to see Pine Lawn improve economically with the help of C&K. In Jamila’s eyes, a community center would be a boon – somewhere for kids to hang out with a computer lab, math and science programs, pingpong tables and a swimming pool. And like so many other entrepreneurs, the Brantleys are hoping to expand their retail opportunity through a strategic partnership with Amazon. Although C&K sells its famous barbecue sauce through its website, getting on Amazon would make things much easier. “Our slogan is, ‘The ultimate barbecue experience,’ and it truly is,” Jamila says. “We ship sauce to Germany, Australia, California, Colorado – wherever. It’s easier and the technology is better [now] to mass market our work through Amazon.” Jamila hopes to eventually build C&K into a franchise and offer an app for online ordering, payment and delivery. She has added menu items to take C&K into the 21st century, too: smoked asparagus, cauliflower, corn and jackfruit, wheat bread as an alternative to white, alkaline water. No, barbecue will never exactly be health food, but Jamila believes it’s all about balance. And what about those famous pig snoots? Even Jamila wouldn’t try them growing up. “I like to compare it to a pork rind,” she says. “You use the potato salad as a dip – it’s kind of like a chip instead of a snoot! You’d be surprised… You how people love bacon? It’s that flavor. It’s that same flavor; it makes you crave it.” 4390 Jennings Station Road, Pine Lawn, Missouri, 314.385.8100, candkbbq.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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iT’s A quieT MorninG, excePT For The unMisTAkAbLe sound oF squeALinG hoGs. You smell them before you see them: It’s just a matter of following the scent of fresh manure. Dozens of hogs have been shepherded into pens at the rear of a facility. They’re a pile of stout, spotted bodies, snouts and floppy ears. “It’s a gorgeous morning,” Louis Fantasma says, smiling as he observes the hogs. He points out the misting fan positioned in the ceiling above them – on hot days, the equipment will keep the temperature 15°F cooler, making for happier, calmer animals. This is a core ideal at Paradise Locker Meats in Trimble, Missouri, where the Fantasma family – Louis; his parents, Mario and Teresa; and his brother Nick – have devoted their lives to the humane slaughtering of animals. A stressed animal will make for a difficult slaughter, which can toughen the meat. The goal at Paradise is for hogs to be comfortable from holding pad to killing floor. An inscription on the front of the pad reads “A Piggy’s Paradise.” “When we built the pad, it was with that in mind,” Louis says.

“i Like To Think we heLP These AniMALs MeeT Their desTiny – And They Are desTined To be on our PLATes.” bAck To bAsics Mario has worked in the meat industry for 39 years. Before he took over Paradise Locker Meats, he worked as a butcher for 17 years. Owning a shop of his own, he says, was always in the back of his mind. But Paradise Locker Meats looked very different when he took over in 1995. “The building was pretty run-down,” Mario says, remembering the original, 2,300-square-foot facility located in the neighboring town of Paradise, Missouri. “When I purchased it, the health department came a few days later and told me they were getting ready to shut the place down. I told them I was the new owner, and I asked them to give me a couple weeks and then come back. When they did, they were pretty impressed with what we had done.”

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Getting a green light from the health department was the least of Mario’s troubles. The trust of the surrounding community had to be slowly earned, and there were equipment failures and repairs – including, at one point, a caved ceiling in the freezer – that needed to be addressed. “It could be an around-the-clock job sometimes,” he says, especially during deer season. “When I first bought the shop, it was a one-man operation, and that first deer season we did around 500 deer. It was 17-hour days for me – I had to put a sign on the front door that just said ‘around back’ so customers would know to find me on the floor.” Deer season meant that the slaughter of other animals came to a halt. Each year the deer numbers climbed, and Mario would hire part-time workers to help – mostly young hunters looking for a discount on their own haul. Mario’s father, Claudio, would occasionally moonlight as a shop hand, and Louis and Nick would clean the shop after school, so occasionally, customers would find three generations of Fantasmas working together. 90

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“At that time, deer was a pretty big part of our income, and that revenue helped us throughout the year,” Mario says. “My wife had a full-time job and was working in Kansas City, and, poor thing, she’d have to do the bookkeeping when she got home. It was a pretty hard start, but we worked through it, and I was really happy to have [the] support of my family.” By 2002, Paradise Locker Meats seemed to be hitting its stride. The business was established, and regular beef and hog slaughtering was sustaining the shop throughout the year. Progress came to a screeching halt when a smokehouse fire became a propane fire and caused irreparable damage to the facility. “It shut us down completely,” Maria says. “It was pretty devastating for us, to see all the work and all the time that was put into that building go up in flames. A lot of history went down with that fire. That place was built in 1946 – a lot of years went by providing services for the local community, and for that to be gone was just sad.”

The Fantasmas share their amazement not only at the demand for their products but also at the rise of the market overall. Consumers are more aware of what they want, Mario says, and there’s a resurgence of customers who are seeking to buy meat from their local butcher again. Even the milkman is getting another moment in the spotlight: In February 2016, Shatto Milk Co. in Osborn, Missouri, launched a home-delivery service in the Kansas City area – and through a partnership with the Fantasmas, drivers are dropping off orders of Paradise Locker Meats products, too.

PICTURED TOP: Award-winning Fantasma’s Finest

peppered beef deli meat (left) and housemade sausages and bratwurst. PICTURED BOTTOM: Mario and Teresa Fantasma (center) with their sons, Louis (right) and Nick.

“You’re seeing this yearning for people wanting to know where their product is coming from,” Mario says. “I believe this idea of going back to the basics and wanting better products is going to be around for years to come.”

The tragedy of that fire is still a painful memory for Mario. A little more than a year after the loss of the original Paradise, a new home was established a few miles down the road in Trimble. “I expected to do 10 hogs and 10 [cows] a week, along with deer season,” Mario says. But growth came quickly. In late 2004, Heritage Foods USA ordered 20 hogs to be processed and shipped to individual customers through its national mail-order service. The pork was popular, and some big-name chefs – including Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali – started ordering for their restaurants. The number of hogs per week at Paradise kept doubling, and the business has expanded every year since. Today, the facility keeps 35 full-time employees year-round to process the 250 to 300 hogs sold weekly. “This is a tough business, and there’s a lot of moving parts and liability,” Louis says. “But even though the journey hasn’t always been easy, the road has been great. One of the things that makes it awesome is that there’s always a problem to figure out. We get a lot of joy in passing on our knowledge to new staff members, too.”

and wanting better products is going to be around for years to come.” -mario fantasma Inspired Local Food Culture

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FARM-FRESH There’s something wholesome and heartening about the way Louis proudly tours the pigpen at Paradise and looks over the animals – it’s clearly one of his favorite places on the property. This scene is the antithesis of many modern meat-processing facilities, where animals aren’t always treated with such reverence. For the Fantasmas, butchery is an art that respects the connection between humans and the animals they eat. Since that initial order in 2004, Heritage Foods has been distributing Paradise pork to some of the most acclaimed restaurants in the country, including Momofuku and Del Posto in New York City. Some of our region’s most celebrated chefs – Justus Drugstore’s Jonathan Justus, The Rieger’s Howard Hanna, Novel’s Ryan Brazeal, Corvino Supper Club’s Michael Corvino, among others – prefer Paradise cuts for their menus. The meat that comes out of Paradise is widely regarded as some of the best in the country, and that’s largely thanks to the close partnerships the Fantasmas have with their farmers. “We build long-term relationships with farmers so that they can plan their breeding and their facility production,” Louis says. “We want to work together over a long period of time, so we need to be able to trust someone when they tell us their hogs are raised outdoors, without antibiotics or hormones.” Pork at Paradise comes from farms within a range of 5 to 300 miles of the facility. The pork that Heritage Foods buys is packaged under its own label, and the source farm is listed on each product. There are around 15 farms that provide pork for Heritage, and the Fantasmas use about 10 farms for their Fantasma’s Finest label. “We look for very high quality in all our pork. There are a lot of [processing centers] where it doesn’t matter how good the meat is, as long as they meet the GAP requirements,” Louis says, referencing the Global Animal Partnership, a five-level animal-welfare program used by Whole Foods and other retailers. Louis emphasizes, however, that GAP is not a bad thing, but Paradise’s focus on quality sets it apart. “For us, it’s a lot different – we need the farmers to raise awesome pork. We’re true believers that the better the animals are taken care of, the better the meat is.”

COMMON CUTS PORK BUTT “The butt is the butt, right? That’s what most people think,” Louis Fantasma says. Actually, the pork butt is the top of the shoulder. Cellar trim is a special-trimmed pork butt – basically the neck muscle. “Barbecue competition guys call it the money muscle,” Louis says. “It’s a highly marbled piece of meat, which is just killer.” MIDDLE CHOP A middle chop is a crosscut section of the loin that’s attached to the belly and ribs. The Fantasmas recommend cooking it sous vide to get the belly and rib to be tender without overcooking the center portion. RIBS “We’re in barbecue country, so we can’t go without the ribs,” Louis says. Ribs come from the middle of the pig, which is also where you’ll find loin and the belly. St. Louis-style ribs consist of a nicely trimmed slab of spare ribs, with the cartilage removed. BACON Most bacon originates from the pork belly, but only about 16 pounds of traditional bacon is produced per pig, so Paradise makes bacon from other cuts, including loin, jowl and pork shoulder. HAM Ham is cut past the loin from the back leg of the pig. “We make whole bone-in and boneless hams, and there are times where we use that for trim and sausage making,” Mario says. “This year, after nearly 40 years in business, I tried my own cured country ham – we’ll see how good it is at the American Association of Meat Processors show,” he laughs. True country ham isn’t cooked – it’s cured for 50 to 60 days and then aged for about 90 days. Mario likens it to an American version of prosciutto.

BEEF STEAK As its name suggests, a rib eye comes from the rib section of the cow. The rib eye is next to the strip loin, which ends up as Kansas City-style strips, T-bone steaks and filets at Paradise. This is the round rump of the cow, which yields top and bottom sirloin. TRI-TIP “A lot of people are looking for the tri-tip,” Louis says. “It’s a great piece of barbecue.” The tri-tip cut is a bottom sirloin.

That dedication to quality allows the Fantasmas to commit to the farmers they work with: Paradise agrees to purchase a certain number of pigs over a period of time, which enables the Fantasmas to have a steady supply of product and gives the farmers financial stability. Together, Louis and his father will visit farms and book hog purchases as much as six months in advance. “We just went to Atchison, Kansas, and met a young couple starting their farm, and they wanted to raise hogs for a market like ours,” he continues. “It was neat for us to know that they were going to be starting their business and investing in their farm because we’re investing in them. It was also humbling for us to know that they had faith in our ability to get their product sold.” Louis pauses. “We’re an integral part of their business and their livelihood, and that hits home for us on a regular basis.”

SHORT RIBS Short ribs come from the front quarter: They’re the first five ribs from the chuck, or shoulder section, of the cow. “They’re pretty meaty,” Mario says. “Short ribs are what hang underneath the rib eye. You can grill those, smoke those – whatever you like.” BRISKET Louis declares brisket the “most important part” of the cow. “It comes off the front quarter, and it’s popular with barbecue competitors.” There are two cuts from the quarter: the flat and the point. The point is the rich, fatty section above the flat, and is used to make burnt ends. The flat is the larger, leaner bottom section.

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Tiger Tailgate

Headquarters Hoss’s Market & Rotisserie in Columbia, Missouri, specializes in tailgate catering for Mizzou football games – everything from a quick pickup of hickory-smoked ribs and brisket or grilled vegetable platters on your way to your tailgate spot to full-service catering with maintenance and service staff on-site at the location of your choosing. The popular Touchdown Tailgate package serves six, or for parties of 25 or more, the Tiger Pigskin Buffet stocks you with extra-thick smoked pork steak, rotisserie-style chicken, au gratin potatoes, homestyle green beans, tangy coleslaw and dinner rolls. Don’t forget to pick up your game-day accessories at Hoss’s, including clear purses for taking into Memorial Stadium and Mizzou-themed plates, cups, table coverings, koozies, flags, hitches and more.

Their Story

Jim (Hoss) and Trish Koetting Hoss’s Market is independently owned by longtime Columbia residents Jim (Hoss) and Trish Koetting, who have been in the restaurant business for a combined 45 years. “We founded Hoss’s Market in order to fill a niche in everyone’s busy lifestyle without compromising food quality,” Koetting says. To that end, they opened the contemporary market with an emphasis on the highest-quality food made with strictly fresh ingredients. Hoss’s specializes in convenient, from-scratch meals for dine in, take home and catering events from boxed lunches to formal affairs. “We make all of our meals in small batches to ensure freshness and quality,” Koetting says. “The difference with Hoss’s is truly in the details.” In addition, Hoss’s offers a wide selection of local artisan retail goods such as sauces, condiments, seasonings, cheeses, pastas, craft beers and boutique wines, plus an on-premise smoker, butcher counter, seafood case and exceptional deli. Hoss’s Market | 1010A Club Village Drive | Columbia, Missouri 573.815.9711 | hosssmarket.com

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porK paradise It’s a Monday morning, one of the facility’s three hog-only slaughter days; lamb and hogs are processed on Thursdays and cattle on Fridays. Paradise processes between 250 and 300 hogs every week, and a dozen each of cows and lamb. This volume of production wouldn’t be possible without the large, 20,000-square-foot facility that Paradise boasts (half of that footprint was just added in 2015). Louis says the expansion has allowed Paradise to keep the slaughter floor operational five days a week. The company processes more than 10,000 hogs a year for Heritage Foods alone – that amounts to around 1.5 million pounds of pork product distributed to restaurants across the country. An operation this size requires keen attention to detail, and the Fantasmas run a tight ship. There are three main departments – the killing floor, processing and cooked meats – and each has its own dedicated staff (although the Fantasmas expect all of their employees to be cross-trained). A full-time U.S. Department of Agriculture inspector, who keeps an on-site office, observes and approves operations. After hogs step off the delivery trailer and enter the “piggy’s paradise,” they’re taken to a holding pad before they’re led to the killing floor. After the slaughter, cleaned carcasses enter a chilled cooler. Decapitated hogs are split down the center, their skinless bodies hanging on hooks from the ceiling. In another corner, internal organs are strung up on hooks, a collage of purple livers and maroon hearts. After 14 hours in the chill cooler, the carcasses are rolled out to the temperature-controlled processing room, where employees butcher the meat, breaking down the animals into familiar cuts. Some of the cuts end up on racks in the dry-aging room, which holds between 1,000 to 5,000 pounds at any given time. On this morning, the selection is largely rib eyes and short loins.

This is where Paradise produces items for its Fantasma’s Finest label, which includes more than 20 varieties of sausage, smoked chops and ribs, hamburger patties, ground turkey, ham, jerky, lunch meats and, of course, cured bacon. “With the expansion [of our facility], we have entire rooms dedicated to smoked meats and sausages,” Louis says. There are vacuum tumblers, which cure pork bellies in brine; there’s a cure room, where the brined pork bellies are left for a minimum of 72 hours, mingling with hams. There’s a spice room that beckons you with dozens of pleasing fragrances – cloves, Calabrian wild fennel and garlic – and a tub of dried mangoes for the habanero-mango bratwurst. The best room, though, is the smokehouse. A curemaster-in-training, clad in a long and heavy white coat, pushes a hefty rack of hanging cured pork bellies into a smoker, where they’ll cook at 135°F. Afterward, the slabs are chilled and sliced – et voilà, bacon! There are currently just two small smokers in this most hallowed of rooms, but the Fantasmas have plans for up to three more.

“Building our Fantasma’s Finest Brand is important to us,” louis says. “We Want to put our name on the very Best meat possiBle.”

“We do a two-week dry age on a lot of pork, too,” Louis says, “and it brings a great flavor to it. We’ll dry age anywhere from two weeks to 75 days [for beef products], which happens more around Christmas.” Dry-aging pork is a relatively rare practice, and Louis says a customer request initially led Paradise to look into it. “Bottom line is, it was great, and we’ve been doing it ever since,” he says. Louis jokingly introduces the smoked and cooked meat section of the facility as “heaven,” but he’s not too far off. Walking into this area of the processing facility is like being on the receiving end of a warm, bacon-scented embrace. Inspired Local Food Culture

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MEET THE MEAT Trimble is about 35 minutes north of Kansas City, and the Fantasmas freely acknowledge that the location is not ideal for a retail shop. Yet that has not stopped them from stocking the destination storefront attached to the facility with every sort of fantasy meat product you can think of. Plenty of these have blue ribbons hanging below the racks, denoting the top honors they’ve been awarded by the American Association of Meat Processors Convention, the Missouri Association of Meat Processors, the Missouri State Fair and the Wurstfest Sausage Competition – altogether, Paradise Locker Meats has collected more than 100 since 2007.

NOW OPEN in OP!

The sausage selection is almost overwhelming, and all the recipes are original; some are traditional, old-world recipes that have been in the family for generations, like the kielbasa, and some, like the Asiago and chive or the spinach and Feta, are new. Just about every cut of pork imaginable is stocked here, plus a handful of exotic offerings – buffalo rib eye, quail, elk loin. One cooler is devoted almost entirely to bacon: shoulder bacon, sugar-cured jowl bacon and various other flavored varieties. The different flavors have been so popular that in May, the Fantasmas introduced a flavored bacon of the month.

MEAT PURCHASING 101 MARBLING “What’s the key to quality?” Louis asks, eager to answer his own question. “I don’t care if it’s beef or pork, but the key to quality is marbling.” Marbling is the intramuscular fat that appears as white streaks in red meat. A cut of meat that’s highly marbled is graded prime. “The biggest misconception we see in people that don’t have meat knowledge is that lean is better,” Louis says. “If people see fat in something, they think it’s not as good – but fat equals flavor. Marbling is everything.”

COLOR The other thing to look for, particularly with pork, is color. “Pork that’s lighter in color and light pink has a lower pH,” Louis says, “which means it doesn’t have water capacity and will be dry. When looking for good-quality pork, look for dark red, bright pork. It’s going to eat better every time.”

“If someone is going to drive out of their way to Trimble, Missouri, we want to wow them,” Louis says. “And we have a lot of fun coming up with those recipes. There are certain times of the year when we put our heads together on product development. We’re Italian – feeding people is in our roots. It’s a joyful thing for us.” Some products, like jowl bacon and Braunschweiger, which is made by grinding together the end pieces of trimmed bacon slab with pork liver, were added to their retail offerings because the Fantasmas are committed to using as much of the animal as possible.

“Everything that we don’t use gets picked up by Darling Ingredients and rendered,” Mario says, referring to the Texas-based company that converts inedible bionutrients into sustainable feed and fuel ingredients, among other products. “Things like the bones, fat and offal are converted into animal proteins for pet food. And we try to find uses for as much of the other parts as we can – pigs’ feet, ears, tails, livers, heart, tongue. There are more and more chefs buying back fat and whole pig heads to make headcheese and other [products].” The Fantasmas are always looking for innovative and delicious ways to decrease waste. A new partnership with Michael Beard, the former owner of 715 Restaurant in Lawrence, Kansas, has led the Fantasmas to produce a Tuscan-style soppressata from pork jowls and tongue under Beard’s Left Hand Butcher label. “We do feel that just like producing safe food is our responsibility, doing as much as we can with the animal is also our responsibility,” Louis says. “What’s nice is that it can also be really fun.”

ROB MAGEE OWNER

THERE’S A NEW Q IN TOWN Rob Magee just brought his mouthwatering, lip-smacking, championship-style ‘que to Overland Park! More than just a full-service restaurant—the same catering and to-go menus you love are now available at our new location. Get your Q on at Q39KC.COM

Q39 MIDTOWN

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405 W. Birch St., Trimble, Missouri, paradisemeats.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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By the time David Sandusky opened Beast Craft BBQ Co. in Belleville, Illinois, in 2014, he had been working in the restaurant industry for 18 years. The menu at Beast Craft, which Sandusky runs with his wife, Meggan, is posted on Facebook when it changes, which might be daily or weekly, and also when it features specials. Menu items like pork steak, Texas-style pork belly and Duroc Pulled Pig are fan favorites. –Huong Truong

with David Sandusky co-owner and pitmaster,

beast craft bbq co.

imagine you have one entire day to dedicate to dining out in the area. Where Would you grab breakfast, lunch and dinner, and What Would you be ordering at each spot?

mai lee

For breakfast, I go to Waffle House. Listen, it may not be proper or trendy, but I like my hash browns smothered and covered. For lunch, I’m going to Mai Lee for a pot of seafood with charred rice; the rice brings a natural toasty [flavor] to the shellfish, which really completes the dish. I’ll gladly round out the day with my wife at Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria.

Who or What do you believe is a hidden gem in the belleville food scene? 4204 Main Street Brewing Co. is putting out some of the best beers in the area. My favorite is the Dunkelweizen. It’s smooth enough to enjoy and great to cook with.

The hot chicken at Southern is incredible, so now I’m impatiently awaiting what Rick Lewis has up his sleeve for Grace Meat + Three.

“The hot chicken at SouThern is incredible, so now I’m impatiently awaiting what rick Lewis has up his sleeve for Grace Meat + Three.”

southern

PHOTOGRaPHy COuRTeSy InSTaGRaM uSeRS

What’s currently your favorite meal at a local restaurant?

katie’s pizza & pasta

4204 main street breWing co

Who in the local restaurant scene inspires you? I’m mostly inspired by the small farmers who are working to supply us with amazing products. I love visiting the farmers’ market in Belleville. It’s full of great people who go out of their way for us. We should be doing a better job of supporting them. Let’s keep the money flowing to small businesses.

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belleville farmers’ market


Lunch + Dinner SUN - THUR: 11 A.M. TO 10 P.M. FRI - SAT: 11 A.M. TO 11 P.M.

www.cork andbarrel.com


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September 2017 Feast Magazine  

In the September issue, we’re profiling barbecue joints and styles from across the region. We also share cooking features where barbecue tak...