September 2021 Feast Magazine

f u n k y f e r m e n ts Inspired Local Food Culture

/

midwest

september 2021

From kombucha to kraut, this issue is cultured.

nal t Sea so eh emp

te pla m fro ce en lu nf Co

K

om

bu ch a

in S

t. L ou is

P. 3 2

...knows fermentation freshly harvested

press the juice

through the destemmer

filtered to perfection

on the vines

barrel fermented bottled & ready

at noboleis vineyards, all the grapes are grown, harvested, fermented & bottled right on site! with harvest season right around the corner, now is the perfect time for a visit to missouri wine country.

Open Daily 11am-5pm, Closed Tuesdays. learn more about what noboleis has to offer at

noboleisvineyards.com

PROMOTION

RECIPE BY CHRISTOPHER SINCLAIR-MCCALLA PHOTOS PROVIDED BY CAPTIVA MARKETING

SIMPLE NAAN BREAD PROSCIUTTO PIZZAS YIELDS: 2 TO 4 SERVINGS

• 2 cups balsamic vinegar • ½ cup packed brown sugar • 1¾ cups self-rising flour (gluten-free, if necessary), plus more for dusting work surface • 1 cup Greek yogurt • salt, to taste • 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese • 2 cups baby arugula • 1 package thinly sliced prosciutto | PREPARATION | In small saucepan, add vinegar and brown sugar; cook over medium heat until mixture starts to boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat; simmer 8 to 10 minutes or until mixture thickens into a glaze, or about ½ cup, stirring occasionally. Glaze should coat back of spoon. Remove saucepan from heat; cool completely before using, about 15 minutes.

1-800-BYDESIGN CLOSETSBYDESIGN.COM

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In large bowl, stir flour, yogurt and salt until well combined. Use hand to form mixture into large ball of dough. Lightly dust work surface with flour; place dough over flour. Divide dough into 3 equal portions; flatten each portion into a circular shape and pierce with a fork to prevent expansion.

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450°F for the pizza.

Place flattened doughs on a greased and flourdusted or paper-covered baking tray. Sprinkle cheese evenly over each dough and bake 4 to 7 minutes or until cheese melts. Remove pizzas from oven and arrange prosciutto over melted cheese; return to oven for 2 minutes or until dough is golden brown.

Remove pizzas from oven; sprinkle arugula on top and drizzle with balsamic glaze. Cut into slices; serve.

PROMOTION

HOMEMADE GRANOLA YIELDS: 18 SERVINGS

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

½ cup maple syrup 1 tsp vanilla 1 tsp salt ¾ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground nutmeg ½ cup coconut oil 4 cups old-fashioned oats 1 cup raw or roasted HUBS peanuts ½ cup almonds 1 cup dried cranberries 1 cup dry, shredded coconut (divided) ½ cup green pumpkin seeds ½ cup semisweet chocolate chips

| PREPARATION | Preheat oven to 325°F. Line large rimmed baking pan with parchment paper.

In large bowl, with whisk, stir maple syrup, vanilla, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg. Add oil and whisk until combined and mixture thickens. Add oats, peanuts, almonds, cranberries, ½ cup shredded coconut and green pumpkin seeds; stir with spatula to thoroughly coat dry ingredients. Transfer oat mixture to prepared pan; spread evenly into ½-inch-thick layer, pressing firmly with spatula. This will create granola clusters after baking and cooling.

Bake 30 to 35 minutes or until golden brown, rotating pan once halfway through baking. The granola should feel dry, but won’t be completely crunchy when removed from oven. Cool granola completely in its pan on wire cooling rack, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

The granola will dry and harden as it cools.

Break granola into clusters; stir in the remaining ½ cup shredded coconut and the chocolate chips. Serve granola on its own, in milk, or layered with yogurt and berries for a parfait.

BREAKFAST BURRITO YIELDS: 8 SERVINGS

• • • • • • • • • • •

8 burrito-sized flour tortillas coconut oil ½ green bell pepper, chopped ½ red bell pepper, chopped ¼ red onion, finely chopped 10 large eggs 2 Tbsp low-fat milk freshly ground black pepper, to taste salt, to taste ¼ cup diced fresh tomatoes 2 cups shredded cheese (such as Cheddar or Monterey Jack)

| PREPARATION | In large skillet, preferably nonstick, heat coconut oil over medium heat; add onion and bell peppers and cook until tender, stirring occasionally. Stir in tomatoes and add black pepper and salt.

In large bowl, with whisk, beat eggs with milk. In large skillet, preferably nonstick, heat coconut oil over high heat; add egg mixture and cook until eggs are cooked through, stirring and folding eggs to scramble. Remove skillet from heat. Combine cooked vegetables with the scrambled eggs.

Place tortillas on work surface; evenly sprinkle cheese in center of each tortilla; evenly spread egg mixture over cheese. Fold in sides of tortillas, then roll tightly to enclose burritos.

Wipe same skillet with a small amount of oil and heat over medium heat. Place burritos, seam side down, in skillet, and cook, in batches, until golden and crisp, turning to brown all sides.

IMAGINE YOUR HOME TOTALLY ORGANIZED 1-800-BYDESIGN

Deliciously Healthy is brought to you by Closets by Design. For more recipes and cooking videos, visit feastandfield.net/partners. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

5

/ 11 / healthy appetite Fermented Apple and Beet Chutney

/ 12 / Flavor factor

Koji

/ 14 / the mix Tepache

/ 16 /

shop here

The Cultured Cantina

/ 18 /

midwest made

Sauerkraut

/ 20 /

the dish

Injera

/ 23 /

one on one

Russell Yarnell of Half Day Creamery

/ 24 / quick fix

Pizza with Caramelized Onions, Ricotta and Chard

/ 26 / culinary library

Chris Ollis of Spring Branch Kombucha

/ 28 / sugar rush Peanut Butter Sourdough Cookies

6

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 1

30

she works hard for the honey

32

the cultured bean

Learn how Anya Corson developed her kid-approved line of fermented honey sauces.

Locally made tempeh hits a note that other plant-based proteins can’t.

DELIGHT is Always on the Menu With award-winning, globally recognized Executive Chef Brian Hardy at the helm, delight is always on the menu at The Gatesworth, an exceptional independent senior living community in St. Louis. Using only the freshest seasonal ingredients, Chef Hardy not only sets the general menus for The Gatesworth’s three full-service, in-house restaurants, but he works with the individual residents to custom-create menus.

To Chef Hardy, creating custom menus is about more than meeting dietary requirements; it’s about surprise and delight, engaging the senses and stimulating the palate of each unique resident.

“A healthy, well-balanced, fully customized diet is something every resident of The Gatesworth has always enjoyed,” Hardy explains.

“In many establishments, you’ll find processed food; that’s not our way at The Gatesworth,” he says. “We bring things in and do the work ourselves, bringing in fresh fruits and vegetables, and high-quality, local ingredients. We do all our baking, butchering and brining in-house. We peel, blanche and prepare vegetables by hand. Most everything is made from scratch. It’s not the easiest way, but it’s the best way to retain flavor and nutrients.”

According to Hardy, the difference begins with the staff. The renowned kitchen staff members hold themselves to the highest standards, and nearly every individual who trains with The Gatesworth is a graduate of a culinary program or has gone through

an apprenticeship, with some having even competed worldwide.

“My staff and I are like the personal chefs of each and every resident that lives here at The Gatesworth,” he explains.

“Everyone is unique, so every diet we create is, too. From the moment I meet a new resident, I become a student of their tastes, likes, dislikes, health needs, dietary goals, etc.

I want to know them completely, so I can provide them with the best nutrition, variety and taste possible.”

These standards do not go unnoticed by the residents, many of whom have named the dining one of the first-class features of the community. “The food is always excellent here,” says resident Carol Max. “Chef Brian Hardy will cook to order for you if there is something special you would like, which he has done for me many times.”

“Our residents provide the inspiration and sometimes even the recipes,” Hardy adds. “Our kitchen can prepare pretty much anything, and we love the challenge of trying to bring a resident’s beloved family recipe to life. It’s all about that personal touch.”

Exceptional Independent Senior Living

EXECUTIVE CHEF BRIAN HARDY The 2020 recipient of the Dr. L.J. Minor Chef Professionalism Award from St. Augustine, Florida’s distinguished American Culinary Federation, Hardy is passionate about providing the highest quality of food and service to The Gatesworth.

The Gatesworth is now welcoming new residents! For more information, or to experience The Gatesworth’s personal touch, please contact us.

We’d love to meet you!

314-993-0111 | THEGATESWORTH.COM

The Gatesworth is committed to equal housing opportunity and does not discriminate in housing and services because of race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status or national origin.

/ nov e mbe r 2 02 0

7

Inspired Local Food Culture /

@

september

midwest

2021

Volume 11 / Issue 9 EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

Susan Eckert, seckert@feastmagazine.com

managing editor

media Strategist

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

digital editor

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Mabel Suen

Distribution

Springfield Contributing Editor

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Tessa Cooper

Contact Us

Columbia Contributing Editor

Jessica Vaughn Martin fact checker

Meghan Baker Proofreader

Alecia Humphreys Contributing Writers

Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Rogan Howitt, Darrell Loo, Mary Mack, Jessica Vaughn Martin, JC Sandt, Nancy Stiles, Hope Timmermann, Gaby Weir Vera

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ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

Make Port Your Lakeside Playground Just 30 minutes north of Milwaukee on Lake Michigan.

visitportwashington.com Our toll free number 800-719-4881 8

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Contributing Photographers

Zach Bauman, Jason Dailey, Teresa Floyd, Dean Groover, RJ Hartbeck, Sean Locke, Ben Nickelson, Pilsen Photo Co-op, Matthew Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Cheryl Vaughn

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2021 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Tempeh plate from Confluence Kombucha in St. Louis by RJ Hartbeck table of contents Fermented honey sauce from Anya’s Apothekere in St. Louis by Jennifer Silverberg

6 & 7 SHOW SEASON TICKET PACKAGE ON SALE NOW

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2021-2022

editor’s letter

I

first heard about the fermented honey sauces from Anya’s Apothekere about two years ago while attending a panel discussion hosted by the St. Louis chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier.

The event celebrated women in the industry who are fermenting a variety of beverages and foods, from beer and wine to sauerkraut and, yes, honey.

Fermentation is one of the oldest techniques in the book – the ancient preservation method stretches back literally thousands of years and has been embraced by almost every culture – so it’s unusual to find anything that could be considered truly “new” in the category. Yet I was immediately struck by owner Anya Corson’s fermented honey sauces, available in garlic, onion and jalapeño flavors, which offer a unique (and not to mention delicious) way to get your daily dose of probiotics.

You can learn all about how Corson took Anya’s Apothekere from her mother’s coat closet to the shelves of Schnucks on p. 30.

Like Corson, chefs and home cooks across the region continue to employ the ancient art of fermentation to add

new depth of flavor and texture to dishes, support digestive health and, as the seasons start to change, preserve the bounty of summer produce. In this issue, you’ll learn how chefs are using koji, Japan’s national mold, to speed up the dry-aging process (p. 12) and how one Kansas City chef learned to love injera, the sour fermented flatbread that’s an essential part of any Ethiopian or Eritrean meal (p. 20).

If you want to play around with fermented foods in your own kitchen, turn to p. 11 for a chutney recipe that will help you preserve your farmers’ market haul just a bit longer, or flip to p. 14 to learn how to make your own tepache, a classic Mexican beverage made from fermented pineapple peels.

From sauerkraut to sourdough, I hope this issue proves why fermented foods have stood the test of time.

Until next time,

Heather Riske

editor@feastmagazine.com

November 16-28, 2021 L E T T H E M E M O RY L I V E A G A I N

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PROMOTION

CELEBRATING FAMILY MEAL TIME My kitchen table serves many purposes. It’s the game table, work table, craft table and most importantly the dinner table. Every night, no matter what function the table served earlier in the day, it’s cleared and set with plates and utensils for our family to sit down and eat together. It’s a tradition I grew up with and continue with my family because of its positive impact in our lives. It doesn’t seem to matter if my day is good or bad, family dinner time is always the highlight.

We share stories, laughter and of course delicious food together at our table.

September is National Family Meals Month and even though family time has increased over the past 18 months, we still carve this time out to sit down and eat together. There is comfort in this routine with all the unknowns in our world and I cherish the memories that are created at dinner time. It is also a great time to offer new foods and experiences to my girls by taking familiar meals like stir fry and swapping in new flavors and ingredients like I’ve done in this month's recipe. For more family meal ideas, pick up a copy of the newest Simply Schnucks Magazine next time you are at Schnucks. If family meal time isn’t part of your evening routine, I encourage you to join me this month by sitting down with your family to enjoy good food and good company around your kitchen table.

BEEF AND BARLEY PINEAPPLE STIR FRY SERVES 4 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced and

2 Tbsp olive oil

white portions separated

1 lb beef tenderloin,

2 cups broccoli florets

cut into 2-inch cubes ¼ cup coconut aminos

2 cups mini sweet peppers, sliced

¼ cup rice vinegar

½ of a medium pineapple, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 Tbsp honey 2 tsp minced garlic

2 cups pearled barley, cooked

2 tsp minced fresh ginger

Salt and black pepper, to taste

PREPARATION In a large skillet or wok, heat oil over medium-high heat. Season beef with salt and black pepper and add to skillet. Cook, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes or until beef is seared on all sides. Add broccoli and sweet peppers. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, about 5 more minutes, or until beef is browned on all sides and broccoli becomes tender.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl combine coconut aminos, rice vinegar, honey, garlic, ginger and white portion of scallions. Pour sauce mixture over beef and stir in pineapple. Bring to a boil and reduce heat. Simmer uncovered, stirring frequently, about 3 minutes or until sauce thickens and is slightly reduced. Serve over warm barley, garnished with remaining scallions.

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

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feastmagazine.com / n ov em ber 2 0 2 0

healthy appetite / Flavor Factor / the mix / shop here / midwest made / the dish / QUICK FIX / culinary library / sugar rush

Fermented Apple and Beet Chutney Hand-picking apples on a cool, colorful day in late summer or early fall is an anticipated activity for everyone in my family.

After using most of our haul to process cider, sauce and chips for our pantry, we ferment the remaining apples with earthy beets, fresh parsley and aromatics. The result is a bold, purple-pigmented condiment best enjoyed simply over a grilled slice of sourdough bread or creamy goat cheese.

Story and recipe by Gaby Weir Vera, private chef, Columbia, Missouri Photography by sean locke

Yields 16 oz 8

8

2

1 1 1 1 1

oz apples, skin on, cored, small dice oz red beets, peeled, small dice Tbsp Italian parsley, leaves and stems, minced Tbsp kosher sea salt tsp ground clove tsp ground ginger tsp ground allspice star anise

/ preparation / Place all ingredients in a large bowl. Using your hands, toss and squeeze mixture until the natural juices start to release, 5 to 8 minutes.

Once there’s a good amount of liquid in the bottom of the bowl, let mixture sit at room temperature, 30 minutes.

Add 4 ounces water and 1 tablespoon kosher sea salt to a snack-size zip-close bag and seal tightly; place bag inside another snack-size zip-close bag and seal tightly. Set brine pouch aside.

Transfer apple-beet mixture to a sterilized 32-ounce wide-mouth glass jar, pressing down with the back of a spoon. Add brine pouch on top and gently press down, allowing the juices from the mixture to rise as the pouch weighs the solids down. (It’s imperative that the solids remain submerged in the liquid at all times to prevent harmful bacteria from growing.) Cover the jar with a light cloth napkin or towel; let sit at room temperature, 5 to 7 days.

During that time, keep an eye on the jar and make sure the ingredients remain submerged in the liquid.

On the fifth day, gently remove brine pouch and taste chutney. If you want to continue developing the flavor (longer fermentation times will result in a more acidic flavor profile), reinsert brine pouch and let sit for another day or two. When the chutney tastes just right, transfer it to a sterilized 16-ounce wide-mouth glass jar, seal tightly and store in refrigerator for up to a year.

pair with: Sorghum Shine

PA I R IT!

Bottled at 104 proof, the Strawberry Sweet Sorghum Shine from Bone Hill View Distillery in Buckner, Missouri, has ripe strawberry and sweet baking spices on the nose, with tasting notes of molasses, cinnamon, vanilla and oak.

Combine 1½ ounces sorghum shine, ½ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice and 1 tablespoon maple syrup in a shaker tin; shake vigorously until well combined. Strain into a Collins glass; add ice and top with sparkling water.

Garnish cocktail with a sprig of mint and enjoy.

–Darrell Loo facebook.com/BoneHillViewDistillery

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 1

11

healthy appetite / Flavor Factor / the mix / shop here / midwest made / the dish / QUICK FIX / culinary library / sugar rush

You might not want to think about mold when you sit down to eat, but it’s an important part of items you likely enjoy on a regular basis, including cheese, pickles, smoked meats, ketchup, soy sauce, beer and wine. Koji, Japan’s national mold, has been used for centuries to add a unique umami flavor to sauces and dishes. Mold spores are grown on a grain – often barley or rice – and break down the grain’s enzymes as it ferments; this is how soybeans become soy sauce and rice becomes sake. Today, chefs across the globe continue to push the limits of fermentation in fine dining, and these four are increasingly using koji to pump up savory dishes at their reputable restaurants right here in Missouri.

–Nancy Stiles

The Antler Room ▶ Nick Goellner, chef-owner of The Antler Room in Kansas City, first worked with koji at a restaurant in San Francisco. Later, as an intern at Noma in Copenhagen, he learned how to grow it. “If you make sure that you’re doing everything properly, it’s actually not that complicated,” he says. “You just need to make sure that you have the right environment for what you’re making.”

When he returned to Kansas City a few years ago, Goellner used koji to cure Aylesbury duck, paired with a fermented plum sauce, and he says guests can recall that dish to this day. He often uses shio koji, which is a liquid application, as well. More recently, The Antler Room served a dry green pea miso and used koji to “age” lamb.

“You can’t come into this restaurant over the course of three months without [experiencing] koji [in some form],” Goellner says. “I have some shio koji in the fridge right now; I have rice koji and corn koji in the freezer. We’re never far away from using koji on something.”

2506 Holmes St., Kansas City, Missouri, theantlerroomkc.com Photography by pilsen photo co-op

12

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 1

At the Antler Room, lamb shanks are marinated in shio koji for 12 hours to mimic the effect of dry-aging for several days.

▪ The Town Company At The Town Company inside Hotel Kansas City, executive chef Johnny Leach offers a decidedly Midwestern take on traditional koji. Leach smokes local sunflower seeds before inoculating them with koji spores and leaves them to ferment for a month; the fermented seeds then become the base for the sunflower miso dressing on The Town Company’s spinach salad. “It’s a creative way of getting the same umami flavor from an ingredient that’s really local and readily available,” Leach says. “It’s listed as just a green salad, which I think people don’t look

Kenrick’s is the best place to make any meal or occasion

DELICIOUS.

at as the most enticing dish to order off the menu, but when they do, they’re incredibly pleased.” Leach has also experimented with peanut miso and chickpea miso using a similar process.

128 W. 13th St., Kansas City, Missouri, hotelkc.com/dine/the-town-company

▪ Indo In St. Louis’ Botanical Heights neighborhood, Indo is known for its exquisite seafood-focused menu with both Japanese and Thai influences, but chef-owner Nick Bognar has also created a steakhouse-worthy rib eye using koji. By marinating the meat in a koji mixture, Bognar is able to mimic the flavor of a 60-day dry-aged steak in two or three weeks. “Koji accelerates the dry-aging process and offers this really wonderful, interesting umami flavor to make this awesome product,” he says. Bognar paired the koji-aged steak with mushrooms and katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) to complement the subtle funkiness of the beef. During the COVID-19 pandemic, Indo has switched its menu to approximately 85 percent seafood, but Bognar knows he’ll use koji in the future – perhaps to brine scallops. “[Koji] dries out the scallops, taking away some of their water content,” he says, “so you get a denser, more delicious scallop that caramelizes really well.”

1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, indo-stl.com

▪ Progress In 2017, Daniel Ernce, chef and co-owner of Progress, gained a deep understanding of koji while working at Restaurant 108, a now-shuttered sister restaurant of the legendary Noma, in Copenhagen, Denmark.

“Having access to some really smart people and techniques and seeing the process of making koji was enlightening,” Ernce says. On Progress’ current menu, Ernce uses koji to marinate a 2-pound Newman Farm pork collar. “When we started building the rub for it, we really tried to avoid traditional barbecue rub [flavor] profiles,” he says. The koji is combined with fennel, black pepper, orange, coriander, cinnamon, bay leaf and ground chives to dial up the umami flavor. “We’re not trying to be super heavy-handed about it,” Ernce says about using koji in his kitchen. “We’re just trying to use it in ways that make sense and in ways that contribute to the dishes themselves. It’s just another tool in our toolbox.”

2144 E. Republic Road, Springfield, Missouri, springfieldprogress.com

4324 Weber Road St. Louis, MO 63123

314-631-2440 kenricks.com

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 1

13

healthy appetite / Flavor Factor / the mix / shop here / midwest made / the dish / QUICK FIX / culinary library / sugar rush

tepache Originating in Mexico, tepache is a refreshing, zero-waste fermented beverage made from the peel of pineapples. Although tepache is drinkable after two to three days, the real magic happens during the second fermentation, when each bottle fills with Champagne-like bubbles. Pineapples are high in sugar, and yeast naturally lives on pineapple skins – an ideal combination that creates a low-ABV (between 1 and 3 percent) drink that’s as versatile as ginger beer. Cinnamon, ginger and habanero add dimension and spice to this tepache, but feel free to leave out the heat for a more traditional take.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri Photography by cheryl vaughn

yields 32 oz 1 1 1 1

½

cup raw or brown sugar ripe pineapple, rinsed cinnamon stick 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and crushed habanero, if desired

/ preparation / Add sugar to a sterilized 64-ounce jar or pitcher. Add some warm water; shake or stir until sugar has dissolved.

Remove crown and base of pineapple and discard. Cut peel from pineapple in four big chunks, leaving approximately ½ inch of the pineapple flesh on the peel; slice chunks into wedges. Add pineapple wedges and remaining ingredients to container; cover with more warm water. Mix with a spoon to combine. Use a small saucer or fermentation weight to weigh down solids (solids need to be fully submerged in the liquid to prevent mold growth). Cover container with a cheesecloth or regular cloth and secure with a rubber band. Let sit in a dry, dark place at approximately 70°F, 2 to 3 days. Mixture will begin to bubble (if there is a bubbly film on the surface of the liquid, remove with a spoon).

After the allotted time, use a mesh strainer to strain mixture into a clean pitcher. (Reserve solids for a second batch of tepache, if desired.) Add mixture to sterilized fermentation-grade swing-top bottles or leftover glass kombucha bottles with screw caps; secure lids and let sit at room temperature, 2 to 3 days.

After allotted time, transfer to refrigerator to chill. Enjoy over ice or in one of the cocktails on p. 15.

14

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 1

Aztec Shandy Add Mexican lager to your tepache for a sippable shandy or rum and lime for a Dark and Stormy-style cocktail.

serves 1 8 oz Mexican lager 4 oz tepache lemon wedge / preparation / Add lager and tepache to a pint glass. Squeeze lemon wedge over top and enjoy.

Bermuda Triangle

serves 1

I recommend Goslings Black Seal Rum, aged in charred American oak barrels.

4 2 ½ 2

oz tepache oz Bermuda rum oz freshly squeezed lime juice dashes Angostura aromatic bitters lime wheel, for garnish

/ preparation / Add tepache, rum and lime juice to a 12-ounce rocks glass with ice; gently stir to mix. Top with bitters; garnish with lime wheel. Drink up!

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 1

15

healthy appetite / Flavor Factor / the mix / shop here / midwest made / the dish / QUICK FIX / culinary library / sugar rush

▶ JEFFERSON CITY, MO

The Cultured Cantina Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by ben nickelson

Mid-Missouri residents can get their fermentation fix at The Cultured Cantina in Jefferson City. From her booth at the Lincoln University Farmers Market, owner Rebecca Wilson offers kombucha, sauerkraut and a variety of sourdough loaves alongside equally nutritious items outside the realm of fermentation, including bone broth and elderberry syrup. Wilson has dedicated the past decade to studying the practices and health benefits of fermentation in an effort to improve her family’s health, and now she wants to share her knowledge and her products with you. She even has something for your dog: SCOBY Snacks (a play on the dog detective’s favorite treat, Scooby Snacks) are probiotic dog treats made with the symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY) that gives kombucha life. If you can’t make it to the market on Saturdays, The Cultured Cantina does local doorstep deliveries on all other days of the week. facebook.com/theculturedcantina

must-try

Fermented Foods

from The Cultured Cantina 16

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 1

salsa kraut

kombucha

The addition of fresh cilantro

Available in 12-ounce

gives this sauerkraut a salsa

bottles or gallon jugs,

vibe, making it more appealing

The Cultured Cantina’s

to people who might be averse

kombucha comes in

to classic kraut. Dip your chips

creative flavors, including cherry-vanilla,

in it or use it as a flavorful

cranberry-ginger,

garnish for tacos, burgers, grain

sourdough loaves

bowls and more.

Wilson makes fresh sourdough loaves for every

lavender-lemon,

market day. Start with the classic and then eat your

Mojito-peppermint-lime,

way through the seasonal flavors, from cranberry-

pineapple and root beer

almond to jalapeño-cheese to pepperoni-Parmesan.

made with real sassafras.

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17

healthy appetite / Flavor Factor / the mix / shop here / midwest made / the dish / QUICK FIX / culinary library / sugar rush

Through lacto-fermentation, cabbage and salt miraculously transform into crunchy, earthy yet zippy sauerkraut, perfect for adding to sandwiches and other dishes or simply eating by the spoonful.

These local fermentation fanatics offer fresh takes on the traditional German condiment and share some of their favorite ways to eat it.

Written by Hope Timmermann photography by matthew seidel

Katie Belakhoua, probiotics food specialist, educator and owner of Katie’s Cultured Kitchen in St. Louis, proves that eating for a healthy gut can be delicious. She offers several versatile sauerkraut varieties, made to order, including the Liver Detox Kraut specially formulated with superfood broccoli sprouts, prebiotic apples and garlic, carrots, turmeric and black peppercorn as well as the Ruby Red Kraut featuring liver-nourishing beets along with carrots, apples and onions. Belakhoua uses only fresh, organic ingredients in her sauerkraut, which you can order by the pint at katiesculturedkitchen.com.

Tom Ruggieri, farmer and co-owner of Fair Share Farm in Kearney, Missouri, credits the farmland’s soil health with the fresh taste of Fair Share’s sauerkraut.

The mild kraut features cabbage grown on Osage Nation land that’s been in farmer and co-owner Rebecca Graff’s family for four generations. Do what the farmers do: Stuff a grilled cheese with it for a meatless Reuben or brine pork in its juices. Discover which Kansas City retailers stock the pure and simple sauerkraut, along with Fair Share’s other ferments such as jalapeños en escabeche, green kimchi, curtido and daikon pickles, at fairsharefarm.com.

A warm, crusty piece of bread is tasty on its own, but sauerkraut helps any loaf live up to its true potential. Jeffrey Moll, owner of Upper Crust Bread in St. Louis, calls sauerkraut a “bread accessory” and recommends using it to build sandwiches and charcuterie boards.

His sauerkraut ages for two months to ensure each jar is fresh but funky and packed with probiotics that make your gut and your taste buds happy. Snag a jar of sauerkraut and other fermented goodies such as giardiniera at uppercruststl.com.

Using a family recipe of cabbage, salt and water, Ray Rome, patriarch of Hoganville Family Farms in Olathe, Kansas, has been canning and selling sauerkraut since 1984. Over the years, his family has found many ways to enjoy it, but their favorite is to slow-cook pork ribs in a Crock-Pot, add the classic kraut for the last hour and top homemade mashed potatoes with the tangy mixture. Four-pack sauerkraut packages are available for porch pickup at the farm, or hungry customers can find regional retailers that sell it at hoganvillefamilyfarms.com.

Dive into the fantastic world of fermentation with a seasonal CSA from Wild Alive Ferments in Lawrence, Kansas. Twice a month, participants receive a share of kombucha and fermented veggies made with ingredients sourced directly from local farmers. Sure, owner Sarah Salzman offers sauerkraut, but Wild Alive takes the fermentation game to the next level with an online shop where customers can buy vegetable fermentation kits, SCOBY, fermented hot sauce, green tomato kimchi, spicy escabeche, fermented herb salt and more. Explore all of Wild Alive’s ferments at wildaliveferments.com.

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Injera Injera, a sour fermented flatbread, is an integral part of Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisines. Here, Cherven Desauguste, chef-owner of Mesob Restaurant & Rhum Bar in Kansas City, explores how he learned to love it.

Traditional injera, made from 100 percent teff flour, has a strong sour flavor and slightly spongy texture.

At Mesob, we use teff, barley and wheat flours to make it, which gives it a milder flavor that’s good for people who aren’t yet accustomed to injera. The fermentation process takes

As told to Rachel Huffman / Photography by zach bauman

approximately a day, and then we use a flat injera pan to cook it. Even when I first tried injera, I didn’t like it. I’m from Haiti, but my fiancé is from Eritrea, and she introduced me to it 11 years ago.

She made it with only teff flour, so it was very dark and very sour.

I just wasn’t used to that flavor of flatbread, but in due time, I started liking it, and now I’m an expert at making – and eating – it.

We pair it with the Ethiopian side of the menu at Mesob, including the house special with chicken, lamb and beef tibs sautéed with onion and jalapeños and seasoned with a mix of house spices. Injera, rather than rice, is the starch in Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisines. It’s also used as a utensil to scoop up the tender meat and vegetables. You can identify good injera by the look of it: The surface should look like a honeycomb, with all those little pockets on it. When you put that kind of injera on the plate, those pockets soak up all the sauce from the meat and vegetables.

Rip off a piece of injera and you get all of the flavors from the dish, but you have to make sure you’re not just eating the edges – the flavor is in the center, where the meat is piled on top.

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PROMOTI ON

PRESENTED BY

COOLING CUCUMBERS COME TO THE RESCUE IN SUMMER’S FINAL STRETCH S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Cucumber Sushi Bowl ENGLISH

GARDEN

KIRBY

PERSIAN

These cucumbers (sometimes called Seedless or Hot House cucumbers) are the ones you’ll often find tightly wrapped in plastic: It’s a way to protect the thin-skinned vegetables from damage as they’re packed and transported, and it prolongs their freshness in the fridge. English cucumbers are at their best when sliced thick and eaten raw — toss them into a salad to get a satisfying crunch for almost zero calories.

By just about any measure, Garden (or Slicing) cucumbers are big.

They’re heavy and long with thick skin — even their seeds are big.

Cucumbers are already about 96 percent water, and the seeds hold even more moisture, so it’s a good idea to scoop them out if you want to retain some firmness. Take advantage of these hefty cukes by sending them through a spiralizer and tossing them with sesame oil for a cucumber-noodle side dish — a light accompaniment perfect for hot summer nights.

Compared to Garden cucumbers, Kirbys are shorter, bumpier, crunchier and more flavorful. All of these attributes make them the go-to choices for pickling.

(They’re sometimes even marketed as Pickling cucumbers.)

They’re just as good raw, and they’re at the peak of their season right now. Like other cucumbers, Kirbys are great sources of fiber, vitamin K and antioxidants.

The cucumbers that usually come packed five to a tray? Those are Persians, which marry the thin skin and taste of English cucumbers with the mid-size length and look of Kirbys. The result is a mild, people-pleasing cuke that’s at home in salads and stir-fry alike. Better still, they aren’t as watery as other varieties, and they don’t have many seeds, so there’s more flavor per bite.

 DOCTOR'S

2 cups cooked white rice ¼ lb shrimp, tails removed and deveined 1 can crab meat ¼ English cucumber, sliced 3 radishes, sliced 1 carrot, cut into matchsticks 1 jalapeno, sliced ½ avocado, diced Sriracha, amount as desired Aioli, type and amount as desired

SEAFOOD SEASONING

ORDERS

1 tsp paprika 1 tsp chili powder

Cucumbers seem to be everywhere in these late days of summer: The prolific garden growers spring off the vine and right into salads, soups, drinks and even beauty products. That’s because at around 96 percent water, cucumbers are fantastic hydrators for the body, inside and out. They have high levels of electrolytes, which are substances that carry electric charges when they’re dissolved in water or fluids that are found in the blood and in other body fluids, explains Dr. Park, an associate professor of surgery at Washington University School of Medicine. “Some examples of electrolytes in foods are sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium and phosphate. Electrolytes help maintain hydration of the body and blood pH, or acidity, and they also help muscles, nerves, and the heart and brain function properly,” she says.

“Many sport drinks contain electrolytes, but they also have lots of sugars — added sugars! — but cucumbers are low in calories.”

At only about 18 calories per cup, cucumbers pack

an impressive amount of nutritional value. There’s the potassium, an important mineral that helps keep organs like the kidneys and heart in good working condition, as well as vitamin K, which is crucial for bone health and in helping wounds heal. Fiber is another plus. “The fiber and water together in cucumbers help regulate your digestive system and keep things moving,” Dr. Park says.

Even if you aren’t a fan of their taste, you can still put cucumbers’ vitamins and water content to good use. Try using them to cool your skin after being in the sun. “Cucumbers have vitamin C and some other nutrients that help maintain healthy skin. But it’s the water in cucumbers that soothes skin,” Dr. Park says.

Some people don’t care for cucumbers’ waxy texture or wonder if they should peel them before eating because the skin may contain pesticides.

But Dr. Park points out that many of these great nutrients are held in right in the skin, so eating

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

1 tsp cumin dash of seasoning salt

PREPARATION

DR. PARK

associate professor of surgery at Washington University School of Medicine PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

them with the skin intact is the best way to get the most out of them. “Washing cucumbers well before eating will help get rid of the waxy surface,” she says. “Even organic cucumbers may have this — it helps keep them fresh longer — and washing will remove any germs that wax is hanging on to.”

Heat shrimp and crab meat in a drizzle of olive oil in skillet over stove. Add seafood seasoning and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes. Assemble sushi bowls: Add a half cup of rice in the center of bowl as the bottom layer, then fan out the vegetables on the outside of the rice. Add shrimp and crab meat to the center and top with avocado. Drizzle desired amount of sriracha and aioli on top of bowl.

For homemade spicy aioli, simply mix a quarter cup plain Greek yogurt (or mayonnaise) with 1 tsp sriracha and a splash of lemon juice. Pour into a plastic bag, snip off one of the bottom corners, and pipe out the desired amount. / nov e mbe r 2 02 0

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 0

ONE ON ONE /

TOPEKA, KS

with Russell Yarnell / founder, Half Day Creamery

ONE on

3 Ways to Enjoy

Half Day Creamery Yogurt

Written by Jenny Vergara photography by jason dailey

A spoonable snack that will keep you feeling Sour Cream Substitute Using a coffee filter, strain the plain yogurt

great, the creamy yogurt from Half Day Creamery in Topeka, Kansas, is made with

for several hours. Add a dollop of the final

fresh whole milk from Hildebrand Farms Dairy

product, which will taste as good as sour

in Junction City, Kansas, and comes in three

cream, to a baked potato or taco.

flavors: plain, honey and lemon. It takes husbandand-wife owners Russell and Christi Yarnell between 12 hours and two days to complete the

Decadent Dips

production process, from fermentation to jarring,

Blend Half Day Creamery yogurt with

using the commercial kitchen in the basement

your favorite dip mix. Switch up the flavor of yogurt and spices for both savory and

of their family home. After the kids go to bed,

sweet dips and pair them with anything

Russell starts the second half of his day, heading

from soft pita to crisp crudités.

downstairs to begin the next batch of yogurt, which Christi will deliver to local farm stores, including Next to Nature Farm in Leavenworth

Breakfast of Champions

County, Kansas, and retailers, including The Merc

Layer any flavor of Half Day Creamery

Co+op in Lawrence, Kansas. When Russell and

yogurt with fresh fruit and a simple

Christi need help, their kids will label the jars, and

homemade granola. If you don’t want to

the family is now considering its next move –

make your own, though, we recommend trying the housemade granola from The Merc Co+op in Lawrence, Kansas.

one that will allow it to take the five-year-old homegrown yogurt business to the next level while continuing to support the community.

Where did you develop your love of locally made food? I grew up around farming and agriculture in a small town of 400 people. I went to Kansas State University, and I remember walking down a hallway where the Added Value Food Lab was, which showed all the Kansas-grown commodities. The idea was, if you use these locally grown products, you’re keeping a farmer in business and putting money back into your community and your state. It made a huge impression on me and rolled around in the back of my head for years. That’s the first time I realized that people could either put their money into Wall Street or put their money into Main Street.

How has your business grown over the years? My wife and I have purposefully grown the business slowly in order to create a profitable side business while raising our family. I make the yogurt, our kids (ages 13, 11 and 6) are now old enough to help label the jars, and Christi gets everything delivered. She has also been a great sounding board for me; when I get a hot ember or idea in my head, I’ll come to her to see what I’m missing, and she always asks the right questions. Back when I first started making yogurt, I would make 12 gallons a week, and now I can make 24 gallons a week. I think I could do more, but I would need more refrigeration at home to do it. I started with plain yogurt; then I played with some other flavors, let my palate do the picking and landed on lemon and honey. I’ve also experimented with orange, vanilla and peach, which all sold very well, but I just don’t have time to do all of those flavors, so I have kept it simple with just the three.

You seem to like the process of creating. What would you like to make next?

I would like to play around with making cheese because I have the raw product, equipment and space to do it. I always start by looking at the products we grow here in the state; I think about our Kansas crops, like wheat and soybeans, and I also think about brewing beer and making soy sauce. Reading up on beer-brewing, I’m finding that the home-brewing community is full of engineers like me – people who like to tinker. I have most of the equipment I need to brew beer already, and I like it because it’s a more complex process than making yogurt. facebook.com/halfdaycreamery / s e pt e mbe r 2 02 1

23

healthy appetite / Flavor Factor / the mix / shop here / midwest made / the dish / QUICK FIX / culinary library / sugar rush

There’s an added bonus to making ricotta at home: the leftover whey, which is fantastic in baked goods. Try using the whey from this recipe instead of water in your next loaf of bread or ball of pizza dough. You can also use a few spoonfuls to jumpstart the lacto-fermentation process when making items such as sauerkraut and kvass.

Pizza with Caramelized Onions, Ricotta and Chard With milk, lemon juice or vinegar, salt and a little time, you can make fresh ricotta that’s more delicious than any store-bought selection. For this version, I’ve also added heavy cream, which makes the cheese richer and better suited for spreading on pizza or lasagna, filling cannoli or serving with berries.

Written by Amy Feese / Photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 4pm on Thu., Sept. 16 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu.

For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class, from cookware to ingredients, contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school

or call 314.909.1704 24

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 1

yields 1 14-inch pizza Ricotta (Yields 2 cups) 4 cups whole milk 2 cups heavy cream 1 tsp kosher salt 4 Tbsp lemon juice Pizza with Caramelized Onions, Ricotta and Chard 2 Tbsp unsalted butter 1¼ lb onions, sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme leaves 2 Tbsp sherry salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ½ lb chard, stemmed, leaves washed ¾ cup ricotta (recipe follows) ½ cup grated Parmesan, tightly packed 1 14-inch parbaked pizza crust

/ preparation – ricotta / Set a strainer over a bowl and line the strainer with a damp cheesecloth. In a small saucepan, add milk and cream; bring to a gentle boil and then remove from heat. Stir in salt and lemon juice. Let mixture sit until it separates into milky white curds and thin, watery, yellowish whey. Using a slotted spoon, gently scoop the big curds out of the pot and place them in the cheeseclothlined strainer; pour remaining curds and whey through the strainer. Allow curds to drain (the longer you let them drain, the thicker your ricotta will become). Fresh ricotta can be used immediately or refrigerated in an airtight container for up to one week. / preparation – pizza with caramelized onions, ricotta and chard / Preheat oven to 450°F. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet set over medium low heat, melt butter. Add onion; stirring occasionally, cook until onion begins to caramelize, approximately 10 minutes.

Add garlic and thyme; continue cooking until onion is soft, sweet and caramelized, 20 to

25 minutes. If onion begins to burn, add a little water and continue to cook and stir. Once onion is caramelized, add sherry; cook until liquid has evaporated and then remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, prepare chard: Slice into thin ribbons and steam until wilted and tender, 3 to 4 minutes.

Transfer steamed chard to a heatproof bowl; gently mix in ricotta and Parmesan. Season with pepper to taste. Spread chard-cheese mixture over pizza crust, leaving 1 inch around the edge. Spread onion evenly over top. Bake until crust and onion have browned, approximately 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Allow to cool slightly and then slice. Serve hot.

MAKE THE MEAL • Ricotta with Milk, Cream and Lemon Juice • Ricotta with Milk and Vinegar • Pizza with Caramelized Onions, Ricotta and Chard • Cannoli Chips and Dip

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25

CULINARY LIBRARY /

SPRINGFIELD, MO

with Chris Ollis / owner, Spring Branch Kombucha t Rooted in the Ozarks, Spring Branch Kombucha launched in 2018, supplying kegs of

kombucha to local retailers and offering kombucha on draft at the Farmers Market of the Ozarks in Springfield, Missouri. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the company began canning its four core flavors – elderberry-ginger, lavender, lemon-hops and strawberry-rose – and launched an online store with a home delivery option. Today, Spring Branch Kombucha continues to expand its reach, and owner Chris Ollis says he’s once again experimenting with new flavors such as elderflower, peach and watermelon. This fall, fans can also get the seasonal apple pie kombucha. Here, Ollis talks about some of the books that he references in his personal and professional life. –Rachel Huffman photo by dean groover

The Big Book of Kombucha by Hannah Crum and Alex LaGory (2016) “This is a step-by-step handbook on how to make kombucha, with great tips for troubleshooting the process. It also has a huge recipe section with measurements for small-batch production on your countertop at home. It’s one of the better how-to books out there, and I found it super helpful.”

Cool Beans by Joe Yonan (2020) “This was my pandemic find. The book is about all the different ways to prepare beans – not just in soups and stews, but in entrées, burgers, dips and more. It also has a pressure-cooking timetable for 20 types of beans, which is great for quick weeknight dinners. One of my favorite recipes is the kidney bean and mushroom bourguignon because it’s plant-based but really hearty.”

Ottolenghi Flavor

by Ixta Belfrage, Yotam Ottolenghi and Tara Wigley (2020) “Yotam Ottolenghi is an Israeli-born British chef, and his cookbook explains how to bring flavor out of plant-based recipes, including different techniques and processes for matching vegetables with other ingredients to create bold flavors. While the recipes can sound daunting, the methods have elevated my craft and changed the way I think about cooking.”

��

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healthy appetite / Flavor Factor / the mix / shop here / midwest made / the dish / QUICK FIX / culinary library / sugar rush

Peanut Butter

Sourdough Cookies

with salted candied peanuts Story, recipe and photography

by Teresa Floyd, food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

The next time you feed your sourdough starter, don’t throw out the portion that’s removed (known as the sourdough discard); instead, reserve it to make cookies. The sourdough discard naturally leavens the dough, imparting a soft, airy texture to these chewy peanut butter cookies. I don’t add flour to the dough, which enhances the peanut butter flavor, and each cookie is rolled in salted candied peanuts for a salty-sweet crunch. All you need to complete this dessert is a cold glass of milk.

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Come visit us for some of the best burgers, beer, and atmosphere in town!

YIELDS 13 COOKIES Salted Candied Peanuts ²⁄₃ cup sugar ¼ tsp fine sea salt ¼ cup water 1 cup Spanish peanuts

Jack Nolen’s 2501 S. 9th St. in Soulard!

Peanut Butter Sourdough Cookies 2 cups light brown sugar 2 large egg yolks ½ cup sourdough discard 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp kosher salt 2 cups creamy peanut butter flaky sea salt, for finishing

Sunday: 11:00am–5:00pm Monday: Closed Tuesday – Saturday: 11:00am – 10:00pm

/ preparation – salted candied peanuts / Line a baking sheet with a nonstick silicone baking mat or parchment paper. In a small saucepan, combine sugar, salt and water; set over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Stirring occasionally, cook until sugar has dissolved and mixture has thickened into a syrup, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in peanuts; continue to stir until nuts are coated and sugar begins to crystallize, 1 to 2 minutes. The nuts and the bottom of the pan will develop a coarse, powdery white coating.

Place saucepan back over medium-high heat and continuously stir until the crystallized sugar coating melts and caramelizes into a golden amber color, 3 to 4 minutes. (The saucepan will begin to smoke slightly as the sugar caramelizes.) Once caramelized, immediately scrape out peanuts onto the prepared baking sheet. With the back of a spoon, spread peanuts into an even layer and set on a wire rack to cool completely.

Once cool, place peanuts in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment; pulse until peanuts are chopped into mostly fine pieces with some larger pieces scattered throughout. Pass peanuts through a finemesh strainer to sift out any dust; discard dust. Transfer peanuts to a small bowl; set aside.

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/ preparation – peanut butter sourdough cookies / Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together light brown sugar, egg yolks, sourdough discard, vanilla extract and salt until combined. Stop and scrape down the bowl as needed. Add peanut butter and mix to combine.

Using a 2½-ounce cookie scoop (approximately ¼ cup), portion out dough.

Roll the top of each dough ball in candied peanuts until well coated and then place 2 inches apart on prepared baking sheet. Using the back of a drinking glass, gently flatten each to ½ inch thick. Bake cookies until lightly puffed and golden brown, 16 minutes. Remove from oven and lightly sprinkle each cookie with flaky sea salt. Set on wire rack to cool completely. Store cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

pair with: English Pale Ale

PA I R IT!

The inviting copper color of Schlafly’s English-inspired pale ale nicely sets off these rich peanut butter cookies. The caramel malts in the beer lift up both the creamy peanut butter base and the candied peanut coating, and its mild body and slightly dry finish help clear your palate in between bites. –JC Sandt schlafly.com

SMART SPEAKER. SMARTER HUMAN.

Set it up today: STLtoday.com/alexa

/ s e pt e mbe r 2 02 1

29

As a general rule, if you’re allergic to something, you try to steer clear of it. You certainly don’t spend your days surrounded by it, let alone launch a business completely centered on it. But that’s exactly what Anya Corson did.

Corson launched Anya’s Apothekere, a line of flavored, fermented honey sauces that are kosher-certified, gluten-free, fat-free and sodium-free, in St. Louis in October 2017.

Since then, she estimates that she’s produced 35,000 jars each year. Her three sauces – garlic, onion and jalapeño – are sold at boutique grocers across the country, including local favorites such as AO&Co. and The Annex, as well as Amazon and Schnucks. She's even earned a shout-out from The New York Times as a charcuterie board must-have.

And she has done all of this while being allergic to both bees and honey.

“I can touch it, and it doesn’t bother my skin, but when I eat it, it makes my lips tingly – what a fun thing for someone who works with thousands of pounds of honey,” she says with a laugh.

But when it came to her own kid, an allergy wouldn’t stand in the way of helping.

When her daughter, Miriam, was born, Corson says she almost immediately noticed a severe irritation on her skin, eventually followed by food allergies. Corson’s mother, Deborah Zorensky, a holistic dietician and owner of The Center for Mind, Body & Spirit in University City, Missouri, tried various natural treatments, and Corson dove into research. She discovered issues like her daughter’s often stemmed from a gut imbalance.

Corson then moved into the kombucha world. But rather than

An easy remedy? Fermented foods.

serve up a bottle of heavily caffeinated black tea to her toddler, her own recipe used light green tea and hibiscus tea. The result:

“It’s great to get probiotics [live beneficial bacteria and

a pretty, pink drink that her daughter loved.

yeasts that naturally live in your body] in any way you can, but fermented foods, in particular, have live probiotic still living and

“That made me think about focusing on the sweeter side

culturing, and that is an incredible boost to get your immune

of ferments,” she says. “I started researching, and I noticed

system back in shape,” Corson says.

fermented honey and thought, ‘What about this?’”

Although she tried a few store-bought solutions, she quickly

Her first flavor attempts, lemon and cranberry, ended in sticky

realized that nothing really fit what she was looking for: a

eruptions when the sugars in the fruit forced the jar lids to pop

fermented product that wouldn’t cause her toddler to turn

Anya’s Apothekere, a line of sweet and savory honey sauces, adds a touch of versatility to the fermented foods game.

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 1

off. She pivoted to vegetables with more success.

up her nose. A veteran of culinary school, she began to experiment. She fashioned the coat closet at her mom’s condominium into a makeshift food lab and filled it with glass jars, labeling them with flavor profiles and dates.

“It started by wanting to see what I could do to help my kid – that’s what moms do,” she says. “It turned into, ‘Man, this tastes good on pretty much everything; I might as well use it for everything,’ then, ‘Why not turn it into a business that could

“We started with a few different salted ferments like cabbage

support my family?’”

and kimchi, and [Miriam] was just not having it,” Corson says.

“She would gnaw on fermented cucumber or a carrot for the

Before long, she was working with a food rep, talking packaging

crunch, but she didn’t love the distinct taste, which, at a year

and sizing with Zorensky (now her business partner) and

and a half old, why would she want to eat that?”

prepping to launch a new shelf-stable product into the market.

hard cheeses. Next, try adding them as immunity-boosting finishing touches on your favorite meals. Corson often drizzles some over her family’s favorite flatbreads and pizzas after they are heated (jalapeño is her favorite here), or she tosses roasted Brussels sprouts with the garlic honey before serving.

Other dishes that get a dose of fermented honey include chili and sloppy joes, hot wing sauce and salad dressing and breakfast sandwiches with goat cheese and a fried egg. She’s also had customers who dumped a full jar of the jalapeño honey over their Christmas ham.

The sauces can also be used in beverages; The Gin Room, for instance, served a cocktail using the jalapeño honey, and Corson says that flavor, in particular, makes a mean spicy Margarita. AO&Co. owner Ben Poremba likes to drizzle the jalapeño honey on the pizzas he makes in a wood-burning oven at home for his kids, and he also combines the onion honey with lemon juice and yogurt to make a marinade for lamb and chicken. “It’s a great product, and it’s been great to see it catch on locally,” he says. “There are a lot of loyalists out there who keep coming back in for it.”

“We have had such great feedback,” Corson adds, sharing that one customer orders three full cases of the onion honey every three months – that’s 18 jars, for those of you counting – because Anya’s Apothekere is still a small operation, but the days of her

Together, the honey and vegetables hang out in 100-gallon

he can’t live without it. “At first, people couldn’t figure out what

mom’s crowded coat closet are long gone. She now operates

fermentation tanks – Corson has one for each flavor –

to do with it, but they’d see how I used it on Instagram and then

out of a facility in The Grove where honey is delivered once a

connected to air compressors that aerate and mix the honey

they would immediately start using it and trying it on everything.”

year from Brazil in 2,000-pound barrels.

daily. It stays in the tanks for about a month, when the yeast is most active. Corson and her small but mighty team then

Looking ahead, Corson says she is open to dabbling in more

Corson wanted to source the honey from the U.S., but to ensure

transfer the honey into gallon jars to continue the fermentation

fermented products, though probably not kombucha, as she

it was certified organic – a must for Corson – she had to go

process for at least another two months before the first

sees that market as saturated. For now, though, she’s focusing

out of the country. Because of the unique way bees pollinate

taste. From there, she monitors and tastes the honeys for up

her attention on a move to a bigger facility in Maryland Heights,

and move, The National Organic Standards Board, which

to six months before they are ready to be packaged. A longer

Missouri, sharing her additional products – she also makes

provides recommendations to the USDA, requires a 2.2-mile

fermentation time won’t affect the probiotic benefits past the

all-natural bath soaks with ingredients such as rose petals,

surveillance zone around an apiary or bee yard without high-risk

three-month mark, but it does strengthen the flavor profiles.

calendula and anti-inflammatory bee pollen – and getting her current honey varieties in front of as many people as possible.

activity (which includes, among other things, human housing, cities and land treated with pesticides). For that reason, U.S.-

Each honey provides its own unique experience. The warm,

produced honey cannot be legally labeled organic, even though

nutty garlic flavor includes candied, chewy slices of garlic, while

“[Going from] having an idea that you never thought would

beekeepers might adhere to natural growing practices.

the onion is the mildest of the three with a thinner consistency,

be anything to turning it into something and seeing your own

as the red onions contain more moisture, and a sweet

logo when you walk into a grocery store can give you chills,”

“Honey is one of the most easily adulterated products on the

aftertaste. The jalapeño is the thickest of the honeys, with a

she says. “I want to see fermented honey as just the norm,

market,” Corson says. “I wanted to show my customers that

punchy, peppery bite that sits on the back of your tongue.

like when you’re cooking and you grab tomato sauce, you’re grabbing this, or when you’re thinking about a super quick and

I take health and wellness very seriously, and organic is an important certification.”

“Garlic was always number one,” Corson says. “Raw garlic and

easy dinner – just to be the everyday option.”

raw honey are two of the strongest plants and foods on earth; putting them together was obvious. Then when it came to the

Corson’s daughter, Miriam, is now 10, and the fermented honey,

others, they were flavors that just made sense. This is what you

along with other measures, has led to a health turnaround.

cook with a lot: onion and jalapeño.”

These days, she and her younger brother, Davi, enjoy helping Corson dress pizzas with the honeys and experimenting with

Although each of the honeys adds a new depth of flavor to a

other ways to use it in their meals at home.

variety of dishes, Corson’s cardinal rule is not to cook it. “We While other fermented foods such as kombucha use an outside

recommend keeping it raw, if you can,” she says. “We don’t heat

“I don’t make claims that this product magically clears up

yeast culture, Corson’s fermented honey relies on wild yeast,

treat it at all, so that’s the best way to keep the active live

eczema,” Corson warns. “I didn’t make it to completely fix my

meaning yeast that is naturally occurring in the honey itself

cultures and retain the benefits.”

kid; it was just a way I could support the functionality of her body and make it work better. And if that’s a product that I can

does all the work. Honey ferments on its own once it reaches a certain moisture point, or water activity. To get to that ideal

Corson says the easiest way to start incorporating the honeys

make for her to eat, it makes me feel a whole lot better that I

water activity (20 to 24 percent), Corson chops raw, organic

into your cooking is to let them be the star of the show on your

am contributing to that.”

vegetables, soaks them in apple cider vinegar to stabilize the

next charcuterie board. The onion is a great companion to a

pH and tosses them into the honey.

stinky blue cheese or Brie, while the other two pair better with

anyasapothekere.com / s e pt e mbe r 2 02 1

31

empeh is a chameleon among plantbased proteins.

Mildly savory with an earthy flavor and firm, nutty texture, it easily soaks up marinades and sauces, and it can handle any cooking technique you throw at it, whether fried, grilled, baked, boiled, steamed, braised or battered.

But what exactly is tempeh?

Tempeh is made from fermented soybeans that are transformed into a solid cake with the help of mycelium.

While that might not sound all that appealing, tempeh hits a note that tofu and other meat analogues simply can’t.

With an impressive nutrient profile, tempeh is a nobrainer for vegan and vegetarian cooking. It’s high in protein, fiber, calcium and B12 but low in saturated fat, sodium and carbohydrates.

Thanks to the fermentation process, tempeh is also packed with probiotics, which enables the nutrients in the whole soybeans to become more soluble and easier to digest.

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feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 1

Locally made tempeh is your ticket to dynamic and delicious plant-based eating. written by Rachel

Huffman

|

photography by RJ

Hartbeck

“Tempeh can kind of ride the curtails of plant-based proteins that people know, such as tofu and seitan, but it’s a more digestible form of soybeans,” says William Pauley, owner of Confluence Kombucha and Living Larder (the brand under which he sells tempeh and other packaged goods) in St. Louis. “The culture predigests the beans, so we can access more of the nutrients and energy without having to use so much of our own energy.”

Although tempeh is growing in popularity across the country, it’s been a way of life for Indonesians for centuries, appearing in traditional dishes such as tempe goreng (deepfried tempeh), gado-gado (an Indonesian salad served with a peanut dressing) and tumis tempe kacang panjang (tempeh stir-fried with long beans).

More recently, the versatile ingredient has found its way into even more cuisines and food cultures; some have even started experimenting with other beans to make it. There’s a lot to love about it, but the tempeh market is undoubtedly driven by the rising demand for meat alternatives across the globe. In the U.S. alone, Persistence Market Research

how to make tempeh ● Roast soybeans. If the beans aren’t already dehulled, roasting them for 5 minutes will shrink the beans but leave the hulls the same size, so it’s easier to remove them. ● Soak soybeans. This will remove more hulls while rehydrating the beans.

It’s important to strain and rinse the beans before moving on to the next step. ● Cook soybeans. While the beans boil, some people skim the surface and stir the pot so that all of the beans cook at the same rate. predicts that revenue from tempeh sales will increase from

For Dan Bugnitz, duly nicknamed Tempeh Dan, locally made tempeh is

approximately $3.6 billion in 2018 to an estimated $5.8 billion

unquestionably more desirable than mass-produced options. Bugnitz

● Cool soybeans. As the beans cool,

in 2026.

started making tempeh in Columbia, Missouri, in 2010, and even then,

they also need to dry completely.

family, friends and regional businesses – from Main Squeeze and “I think people are more familiar with tofu, but in my opinion, tempeh

Hy-Vee in Columbia to Frida’s in University City – were vying for

● Ferment soybeans. At this point,

is a distinct product, and it’s gaining more attention,” says Martin

batches of his fresh tempeh. (As soon as it’s out of the incubator,

the beans are combined with the fungus

Maigaard, owner and operator of Central Soyfoods in Lawrence,

Bugnitz freezes the tempeh, so that it’s technically fresh, not

or starter culture (and sometimes

Kansas. “It’s also finding its place in more and more dishes in the

pasteurized like many retail versions.)

vinegar). Everything is stirred together,

U.S. The mycelium absorbs any flavors that you add to it, making it extremely versatile.”

transferred to a perforated plastic “It’s not just that my tempeh is great – local, small-batch tempeh,

bag and then flattened out so that the

in general, is great,” he says. “I think part of the reason is that large

mixture eventually forms an even patty.

Maigaard has a background in food production and local food

facilities might not soak the beans and often cut the fermentation

systems – he worked for The Merc Co+op in Lawrence for a

time, and you don’t know where they’re getting their soybeans and

● Proof patties. The plastic bag is

combined total of 10 years – and he and his wife, Danielle, were fans

starter, but it also has to do with the magic of small-batch. It’s not

placed in a proofer set between 85°F

of Central Soyfoods for years before taking over the company two

machines that are making it; my hands make my tempeh. As a result,

and 95°F. For the first 12 hours, the

years ago. After a whirlwind transition into his new role, including

my tempeh is a little funkier, and the soak and longer fermentation

patties have to be kept warm, but then

a mere four-hour crash course on everything tofu, he decided to

time in my process bring out a slight bitterness and specific

they start producing their own heat,

pause tempeh production while he perfected Central Soyfoods’ tofu.

nuttiness [respectively].”

so the door of the proofer needs to be

However, this spring, Maigaard began reworking the tempeh recipe

opened or else they’ll overheat.

and process, and he hopes to reintroduce it to the market this fall. He

Bugnitz swears by the starter that he gets from The Tempeh Lab in

understands the increasing demand for tempeh and plans to give his

Lewis County, Tennessee, and he sources his soybeans from Lakeview

● Freeze or pasteurize tempeh.

customers what they want. First up will be the original tempeh –

Farm in Middletown, Missouri. The farm’s soybeans are special:

Either way stops fermentation; the

slightly sweet and intensely nutty with a bit of tang thanks to the

They’re food-grade, which require a higher level of management, have

tempeh can then be stored in the

addition of apple cider vinegar – and then maybe a tempeh using

a higher protein content and milder flavor and grow bigger than other

freezer or refrigerator and enjoyed at

okara, a byproduct of tofu and soy milk. From tempeh to tofu, all

soybeans. They’re also organic, which caught Bugnitz’s attention, as

your leisure.

food production and packaging is done by hand at Central Soyfoods.

organic soybeans are difficult to find in Missouri. / s e pt e mbe r 2 02 1

33

Although he stopped making tempeh for a while, Bugnitz

boasts a honey sauce base topped with two different

recently got recertified, and he’s back in the kitchen at

types of tempeh that are paired with fermented kale,

Cafe Berlin, where he formerly served as front-of-house

roasted and pickled beets, fresh arugula, golden kiwis

manager, fermenting batches for all of his fans under the

and whatever edible flowers are growing in the on-site

brand Sunray Foods.

garden at the time.

Over at Confluence Kombucha, Pauley agrees that local

In the past two years, Pauley has created a dozen

is best when it comes to tempeh. “If you can find a local

different flavors of tempeh, including black bean and

producer, that’s the best way to determine if you like

garbanzo bean with sunflower seeds, which are more

tempeh or not,” he says. “Since our tempeh uses whole

appealing to people who might not want to consume

beans, it has more texture; commercially made tempeh

so much soy. Recently, he combined adzuki beans and

is lacking in that way. When people are on a new journey

kidney beans; since the adzuki beans are significantly

and seeking out new foods, it enhances the experience if

smaller than the kidney beans, they fill the space in

they’re able to talk to the maker. It’s nice to be able to give

between, making it easier for the mycelium to wholly

people a bit of background on the product and how it’s

bind everything together. The adzuki beans have a

made; it gives people more appreciation for it.”

sweet quality, so Pauley decided to add that tempeh to a housemade halva dessert that he’s made for a while,

The kitchen of Confluence Kombucha is devoted to

and he says the result is next-level. “Tempeh has a special

producing, well, kombucha, so Pauley and his team have to

magic. Because of the process, it’s just cool to create. It’s

cook the beans for their tempeh outside, in the same pot

like, ‘Wow, the mycelium does it again.’”

“Tempeh can kind of ride the curtails of plant-based proteins that people know, such as tofu and seitan, but it’s a more digestible form of soybeans.

The culture predigests the beans, so we can access more of the nutrients and energy without having to use so much of our own energy.”

–William Pauley, owner of Confluence Kombucha and Living Larder PICTURED previous page: Kimbap taco with salted tempeh ‘bacon’ and a seasonal tempeh plate at Confluence Kombucha PICTURED below: William Pauley ferments beans for tempeh

they’ve been using for 10 years, on a propane burner.

34

In total, it takes the Confluence Kombucha crew three to

Natasha Kwan, chef-owner of Frida’s and Diego’s Cantina

four days to make their tempeh, which is pasteurized to

y Cocina in University City, Missouri, has spent years

“At Frida’s, we’ve served a tempeh ‘bacon,’ lettuce and

stop the fermentation process and deactivate spoilage

experimenting with tempeh. If you want to cook with it at

tomato sandwich,” she says. “Tempeh is really nutty, so

bacteria to slow deterioration, and they produce

home, she has plenty of suggestions. For Asian-inspired

we marinated it in spices and a little liquid smoke to

approximately 100 pounds of tempeh each weekend.

dishes, marinate it with soy sauce or coconut aminos,

make the bacon. My favorite way to use it, though, is in

sesame oil and sambal oelek for at least three hours

‘chicken’ salad because I actually like my tempeh cold;

Tempeh’s prized umami flavor and mushroom-esque

or overnight. Cut it into triangles for a vegan version of

cube the tempeh, throw in onion, celery and grapes,

meatiness shine in dishes at the restaurant, including the

pescado a la Veracruzana with tomato, onion, jalapeño,

whatever you want, and eat it on a croissant. It’s fun

Korean-inspired kimbap taco with salted tempeh cut like

olives, capers and rice or crumble it, toss it with aquafaba

and easy to work with tempeh. And it’s so good for

thick bacon, housemade kimchi, brown rice and avocado

and taco seasoning and then broil it for a minute or two to

you – I think we all need to eat more fermented foods

wrapped in a roasted seaweed shell. Another standout

use in nachos or tacos.

for our health.”

feastmagazine.com / septem ber 2 0 2 1

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