September 2012 FEAST Magazine

culinary composer

rooted in the season

it’s catching on

CHRIS BORK

RAVISHING RADISHES

FISH FARMS

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

feastSTL.com | september 2012 | FREE

A FREsh PERSPECTIVE

Made FRESH In-Store!

Schnucks S�gnature Storemade Sausage Our Sch�ucks sig�ature sausage is truly homemade –our butchers gri�d meat fresh i�-store, the� ha�d mix it with spices usi�g our ow� sig�ature recipes. No preservatives or MSG! Each sausage is stuffed i� North America� ha�d-pulled hog casi�gs, the� ha�d twisted by our butchers.

E�joy traditio�al sausage li�ks for tailgati�g or family meals, or buy our bulk sausage to use for pizza, lasag�a a�d soup. Savor the flavor to�ight!

Offic�al Sausage of The St. Lou�s Rams

Bratwurst – What a brat is supposed to taste like!

A crisp bite, ge�tly spiced to perfectio�. �urkey Bratwurst – All the flavor, eve� the bite, of our bratwurst – mi�us the fat. It’s 93% lea�.

Beer Bratwurst – Our traditio�al bratwurst with a hoppy beer flavor.

Country Style – A� old-world flavor with salt, pepper a�d a hi�t of garlic.

Spicy Stadium – Robust flavor with red pepper heat.

Salsiccia – Our traditio�al recipe with the perfect bala�ce of fe��el, cheese a�d tomato.

Hot Italian – Based o� our recipe with spicy, red pepper flavor.

Sweet Italian – Our recipe filled with the flavor of fe��el a�d cheese.

Garlic – Heavy garlic flavor, that’s similar to fresh Polish sausage.

Hot – You’ll taste the heat i� our spicy pork sausage.

Chorizo – Coarse Mexica�-style sausage with vi�egar a�d a hi�t of cumi�.

©2012 Schnuc�s

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

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CAMERON MACKINTOSH’S

SPECTACULAR NEW PRODUCTION

BOUBLIL & SCHÖNBERG’S LEGENDARY MUSICAL Lyrics by HERBERT KRETZMER

ON SALE NOW THE �OX THEATRE OCTOBER 16 -28

314-534-1111 • METROTIX.COM LesMis.com

4

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SEPTEMBER 2012

SE P T EMBER 1– 30

DISCOVER �HE �AS�E OF SPAIN Products from participati�g compa�ies i�clude: EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL from Via�óleo i� Extremadura �a GARLIC, PIQUILLO PEPPERS & OLIVE OIL from Casa Po�s i� Catalu�a EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL from Castillo de Ca�e�a i� A�dalucia EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL from O-Med i� A�dalucia CHEESE & MARCONA ALMONDS from Quorum I�ter�acio�al CHOCOLATE BARS from Valor i� Alica�te BALSAMIC, PEDRO XIMENEZ & MOSCATEL VINEGARS from Arvum Vi�egars i� Jerez TASTY OLIVES from Aceitu�as Losada i� Sevilla RIOJA WINES from Di�astía Viva�co i� La Rioja TUNA & ANCHOVIES from Ortiz i� the Basque Cou�try CHESTNUTS from Naiciña i� Galicia SMOKED PIMENTÓN from El Rey de La Vera i� La Vera

AVAILABLE A� S�RAUB’S www.foodsfromspai�.com

www.oliveoilfromspai�.com

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

5

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

SEPTEMBER 2012

from the staff

| 10 |

feaststl.com

What’s online this month.

| 12 |

from the PUBLISHER

Traveling terroir.

| 14 | FEAST FAVES

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. my stuff

Andrey Ivanov opens up about wine.

| 31 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five salad spinners to the test.

New and notable in beer, spirits and wine.

| 34 |

mystery shopper

Buy it and try it: dragon fruit.

| 36 | TECH SCHOOL

Pickle your favorite produce.

| 38 |

how to

The head, the tail, the whole damn fish.

| 42 | EASY EATS

The delicate delights of squash blossoms.

| 82 |

the dish

Wine writer Jennifer Johnson shares her “taste” for peach panna cotta.

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY of radishes (P. 36)

BY Jennifer Silverberg Table of contents photography BY

Jennifer Silverberg

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

exploring

COLUMNS

| 28 |

| 32 | ON THE SHELF

6

72

44 an evolution of

ideas

local waters

60

a growing

SOLUTION

66

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

7

Cooking Classes for �ood Enthusiasts

Magazine Volume 3

Date Night -Italian Cuisine

| Issue 9 | September 2012

Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville

September 21, 6pm – 9pm - $75

Date Night -�rench Cuisine

Managing Editor Brandi Wills

September 28, 6pm – 9pm - $75

Managing Editor, Digital Content Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach

Now Booking ������� ������

Call for Deta�ls on ��������� � ������� ���� ��

Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editors/Proofreaders Stephanie Witmer, Andrea Mongler Contributing Writers Tory Bahn, James Brigham, Brandon Chuang, Maddie Earnest Pat Eby, Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Clara Moore, Angela Ortmann, Matt Seiter, Michael Sweeney Cassy Vires

9200 Olive Blvd., Suite 108 - Olivette, MO 63132 314.264.1999 - lecoleacademy.com

Contributing Photographers Jonathan Gayman, Michael Jacob, Laura Ann Miller Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg, Corey Woodruff

Sharpen your skills!

Contributing Videographer Hannah Radcliff

New 40-week Culinary �undamentals program.

Our only focus is culinary excellence.

Call us to enroll.

Contributing Illustrator Derek Bauman

888-797-0667 | LECOLE.EDU CONVENIEN�, AFFORDABLE, AND FLEXIBLE 6164

Contact Us Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor St. Louis, MO 63101 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Kelly Klein, 314.340.8562 kklein@stltoday.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Just a few weeks left to enjoy our late summer menu!

Enjoy lun�h and dinner from the next generat�on of St. Lou�s chefs.

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com.

Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2012 by Feast Magazine™.

All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited.

Make your reservation today by calling 314-587-2433.

9811 South �orty Drive l Ladue, MO 63124

Like Us for special offers 8

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www.lecole.edu

SEPTEMBER 2012

resta�rant

Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC Jennifer A. Wood, publisher

New Oceano Bistro location in Chesterfield

OPEN NOW! We are St. Louis' premiere fresh fish bistro. Our chefs, in partnership with fisherman, farmers and food artisans have searched the worlds' seas to bring

Beautiful Main Dining Area

the St. Louis area what is enjoyed by those who live on the coasts.

We then pair it with innovative

Comfortable bar & lounge for unwinding and spending time with friends.

and enticing fresh local produce and flavor combinations certain to dazzle every discerning palate, at prices that are a great value for a great catch.

Private party room for your exclusive events.

Expansive patio area with stunning waterfall!

Monday - Thursday 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Friday - Saturday 11 a.m. - 11 p.m. • Sunday 10 a.m. - 9 p.m.

For reservations call either location or visit us online at oceanbistro.com

Also, make sure to stop by and see us at our original Clayton location. o 44 N. Brentwood Clayton, MO 63105 314.721.9400

16125 Chesterfield Parkway West Chesterfield, MO 63107 636.536.9404

oceanobistro.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

9

ONLINE CONTENT

feastSTL.com

Inspired Food Culture | Saint Louis

The Feed

Online Exclusives

This Month’s Feast

Watch & Listen

Feast Events

Recipes

ENTER TO WIN! Read all about chef Chris Bork’s approach to cooking (p. 44) and then enter to win a chance to enjoy his creatively composed dishes. There’s currently a waiting list to purchase a full membership to Blood & Sand, but we’re giving one away for free. Check out feastSTL.com for details. Photography by Wesley law

ONLINE COLUMNS

NEW ONLINE! SHAPING THE WAY KIDS EAT: With a strongerthan-ever national focus on what kids are eating, we’re looking at how local culinary instructors, educators, chefs and parents are getting children excited about cooking and making smart food choices. Starting this month, we’ll bring you weekly tips, recipes, dining-out ideas, hands-on activities (such as L’Ecole Academy’s summer cooking camp, pictured) and more. Photography by J. Pollack Photography

APPROACHES TO PICKLING: Pick up Home Wine Kitchen chef Cassy Vires’ tips for pickling in this month’s Tech School demo (recipe p. 36) and then head to feastSTL.com for brine recipes, flavoring ideas and serving suggestions from other chefs around town.

CONNECT WITH US facebook.com/feastSTL Scan this tag to LIKE us

twitter.com/feastmag Scan this tag to FOLLOW us

ONLINE COLUMNS TRAVELOGUE: Turn to p. 28 to get to know Advanced Sommelier Andrey Ivanov and then travel with him through Europe’s wine regions in a special photo essay on the wineries and restaurants he scoped out this summer in France, Spain and Italy. Photography by mark christian

pinterest.com/feastmag Scan this tag to FOLLOW us Get the free app at gettag.mobi

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Inspired Food Culture

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FROM THE PUBLISHER

Blood & Sand is

PS

FEAST EVENTS

a members’ only restaurant, a unique concept that necessitates a focus on innovation.

Turn to p. 44 to discover the chef behind Blood & Sand’s everevolving cuisine.

L’Ecole Academy Class Sat., Sept. 1, 10am to 1pm

$75 per person, lecoleacademy.com or 314.264.1999

Need fresh ideas for a party? The Party Dips and Appetizers class will ensure your next get together is a hit.

Forks & Corks

Sat., Sept. 1, 11am to 10pm; Chesterfield Amphitheater

This free event features delicious cuisine from the finest area restaurants, a selection of Missouri wines, regional craft beers, an artists’ village and live music all day long.

St. Charles Restaurant Week Mon., Sept. 10 to Sun., Sept. 16 stcharlesrestaurantweek.com

During the inaugural St. Charles Restaurant Week, restaurants will offer a three-course meal for $25.

Feast Your Eyes

Sat., Sept. 1, 12:30pm; Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis

Enjoy a tasting prepared in response to the exhibitions and paired with local wine and cocktails.

Trailnet’s Row by Row Farm Ramble Sun., Sept. 9, registration at 8am; Local Harvest Grocery $5 general admission; $3 kids 10 and under

Cyclists visit four farms to learn how urban farming is taking hold in St. Louis. Bring a bag for all your purchases.

Wine Tasting

Thu., Sept. 20, 6 to 7pm; Water Street RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food and wine tasting at Water Street.

Art of Food

Sat., Sept. 22, 6 to 10pm; Koken Art Factory Tickets begin at $30, kelly@slowfoodstl.org

Art of Food serves up delectable hors d’oeuvres using as many fresh, local ingredients as possible, all prepared in the Slow Food tradition by St. Louis’ favorite “slow” chefs.

Schnucks Cooks Cooking Class Wed., Sept. 26, 6pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $45, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Make the stuffed squash blossoms on p. 42.

an experience that reminded me what I love most about food: diversity. The journey

Feast Book Club Meet-Up

took our group from Turkey to Greece, Croatia and Italy, each stop offering a completely

RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com

fried sardines with onions, raisins and polenta in Venice.

To borrow a wine term, culture creates a region’s terroir. The experience of “place” is what our increased collective interest in “local” seeks to express. While chains and highways may create a sense of comfort in their predictability, people aren’t coming to St. Louis to dine at an Applebee’s. Locals and visitors alike want to taste what distinguishes our region

Join us to discuss Yes, Chef: A Memoir by Marcus Samuelsson while enjoying complimentary hors d’oeuvres and drink specials. Purchase the book from Left Bank Books and receive 20 percent off.

Green Homes & Great Health Festival Sat., Sept. 29, 9am to 4pm; Missouri Botanical Garden

Celebrate sustainable living and explore ways to maintain a healthy you and a healthy planet at this annual event.

from any other, and when restaurants, bars and shops source locally, that sense of terroir

Conservation Celebration

is what they offer their customers.

$200, magnificentmissouri.org

Eating and drinking “local” may seem trendy to some, but focusing on what makes St. Louis taste, sound and look like St. Louis enriches our own sense of place and solidifies what it means to be at home in the Gateway City.

Sun., Sept. 30, 3 to 7pm; Bowood Farms

Enjoy heritage breed pork and local produce in appreciation of Missouri’s farms, forests and the organizations that work to conserve them.

Greater St. Louis Restaurant Week Fri., Oct. 12, to Sun., Oct. 21 restaurantweekstl.com

This event offers a variety of dishes from top chefs, and diners can visit old favorites and try the new restaurants that have opened recently in the Greater St. Louis area.

Until next time,

feedback?

catherine@feaststl.com

Catherine Neville 12

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

Jonathan Gayman

distinct flavor. Mezze in Istanbul, candied kumquats in Corfu, cherry brandy in Split and

Thu., Sept. 27, 6pm; Salt

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FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

Salt 314.932.5787

Salt’s stately presence on Lindell Boulevard has been a beacon for food enthusiasts since the restaurant opened its doors in mid-2011. In April of this year, Josh Roland assumed full control of the kitchen, and he’s deftly balanced the cuisine Salt is known for with an approach that’s all his own. Try Roland’s charcuterie, the Salt Smokies in particular. These are his ode to the cocktail weenie, all grown up and much too good to be simmered in a Crock-Pot. The casing has a nice snap and the finely textured filling an excellent fat-to-meat ratio.

Gnocchi is light as air, made with ricotta and a bit of lemon. Roland’s seared trout is served with a potato-leek hash and a poached egg, the golden yolk mingling with rhubarb-vanilla vinaigrette. Pork cheek is a menu favorite, braised in soy sauce and plated with an arugula salad and grilled peach. Even a classic dessert has a touch of the unexpected.

The ice cream terrine is dressed up with a drizzle of smoked-chocolate syrup. Sweet. – C.N. 4356 Lindell Blvd., Central West End enjoysalt.com

14

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman

a pinch of perfection

Central West End

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | what we’re dRinking

Cool-Climate Australian Wines written by Jennifer Johnson

If you are a trendsetter, now is the time to reintroduce yourself and your friends to Australian wine. Wine critic Robert Parker’s love affair with gargantuan reds from Down Under, subsequently underscored by a glut of plunkish Australian wines in the U.S. marketplace, resulted in a backlash, as consumer palates tired of the high-alcohol, huge-fruit styles of many Australian wines from warmer regions. There are many very compelling and reasonably priced cool-climate Australian white and red wines demurely presenting themselves in the marketplace these days with more earth-driven and less full-bodied characteristics that make these wines fantastic accompaniments to food.

Plantagenet Hazard Hill Shiraz 2009

Western Australia

Sourced from cool-climate areas in the Western Australia region, this fairly full-bodied Shiraz has a moderate jam-berry nose with vanilla notes that precede dusty-earth, peppery qualities on the palate, yielding an elegant spice-fruit balance.

Pair with beef tartare, grilled ahi tuna steaks or pappardelle pasta with chanterelles in white wine-cream sauce. $12.99; Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, parkerstable.com

Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling 2010

Clare Valley, Australia

Zesty and bone-dry, this Riesling offers an abundance of lemon-lime, apple and mineral notes, with nuanced apricot and white peaches on the nose. Riesling loves Clare Valley’s moderately continental climate – think warm summer days and cool nights. This is the region from which some of the country’s finest Riesling hails.

Pair with endive, apple and blue cheese salad; grilled striped bass with orange-saffron butter; or pad Thai. $16.99; The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com

A St. Louis-based wine and food enthusiast, Jennifer Johnson is a sommelier, wine educator, journalist, and hospitality and marketing consultant who loves to celebrate life, family, food and wine.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

15

FEAST FAVES

| where we’re dining

VEGGING OUT IN U. CITY

Frida’s Deli 314.727.6500 University City

sriracha mayo. Order the raw tacos and you’ll be delighted by crisp lettuce leaves filled with spicy sunflower taco meat topped with pico de gallo and sour cream. For a classic combo, try the white Cheddar grilled cheese – dressed up with tomato, arugula and avocado – and a cup of raw tomato bisque. Salads are hearty, healthy and full of flavor, like the 007 Salad, a spinach salad with cucumber, tomato, red onion, blue cheese crumbles and blue cheesestuffed olives drizzled with gin-cucumber dressing. And

whether you’re on the go or looking for a light lunch, Frida’s smoothies satisfy. Our favorite is the Glow smoothie, a mouthwatering blend of coconut water, peaches, papaya, strawberries and agave nectar. This bright, sun-filled spot may be a newcomer to the food scene, but it’s destined to become an old favorite in no time. – B.W. 622 North and South Road, University City fridasdeli.com

PHOTOGRAPHy by

Corey Woodruff

Since Frida’s Deli opened its doors in July, St. Louisans have been flocking to the vegetarian-vegan-raw deli for fresh and forward-thinking meatless cuisine. Diners are greeted by colorful walls, fruity aromas and, most often, a line. No worries. Just grab a bag of the housemade kale chips in the flavor of the day and chomp away while you peruse the menu. The “turkey” sandwich is piled high with vegetarian deli meat, Cheddar, lettuce, tomato, red onion, sprouts and avocado with a generous spread of tasty

16

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | FOOD STUFF

PICKLED VEGGIES It’s the time of year for preserving peak-season produce. Turn to p. 36 for instructions on making your own pickles at home or simply pick up a jar of these delicious pickled goodies – B.W.

Classic cucumbers

Okra with smoked paprika

Spanish peppers

| 1 | Housemade pickles, $16; Home Wine Kitchen, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, homewinekitchen.com | 2 | Rick’s Picks Smokra, $8.99; Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com | 3 | Savorico Basque Piparra Peppers, $9.95; Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, 143 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, extravirginoo.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

17

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FEAST FAVES

| whAT we’re drinking

Love At First Bite Story and recipe by Matt Seiter

When I stumbled upon The Biter in the pages of the Savoy Cocktail Book, I couldn’t find any sort of history on it, but it’s an oldie dating to at least 1930. This libation is a dandy palate pleaser, great for late summer, as it’s refreshing, tart and easy-drinking.

This drink features two liqueurs that are seeing a resurgence: Chartreuse and absinthe. Chartreuse has been made by Carthusian monks since 1605. The Carthusians, whose first monastery was built in the shadow of the Chartreuse Mountains, now reside in Voiron, France. Their elixir comes in two varieties: green and yellow. Flavored with more than 130 roots, herbs, barks, spices and flowers, the liqueur’s secret recipe is said to be known by only three monks. Green Chartreuse gets its color from herbs that are added after the distillation process and allowed to steep.

Yellow Chartreuse is colored with saffron, again added after the distillation process. Green Chartreuse is sweet, pungent (55 percent abv) and herbal. Yellow Chartreuse is lower in proof – 40 percent abv – and sweeter and has notes of honey and baking spices.

Absinthe derives its name from the plant Artemisia absinthium, commonly known as wormwood. It was banned in the U.S. in 1912 and didn’t come back on the market until 2007. There are a few domestic Laura Ann Miller

distilleries that are making quality absinthe, and I recommend North Shore’s Sirène Absinthe Verte and St. George’s Absinthe Verte, which has a strong anise flavor and is very herbal. Traditionally drunk with water

PHOTOGRAPHy by

and a sugar cube, absinthe can also be the base of a cocktail or used to add depth of flavor, as in The Biter.

This stuff is potent, ranging in abv from 50 to about 70 percent. And contrary to lore, you will not hallucinate when drinking absinthe. You can try, but you’ll pass out before the bottle is finished.

shaking vs. stirring

The Biter Serves | 1 |

There is a basic rule of thumb in the bartending world: Cocktails that contain all booze are stirred, and cocktails with juices, syrups, cream or eggs are shaken. However, many cocktails are exceptions to the rule, The Biter being one of them. I did tests on these “rule breakers” and found that the method used to combine a cocktail’s ingredients definitely makes a huge difference. With classics, I follow the recipe. With my own creations, I test. If a drink that I stir is lacking something or just not very good, I’ll shake it to see what it does and vice versa. Try this and see what I’m talking about.

1½ oz ¾ oz ¾ oz 1 dash

Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and is the creator of the Sanctuaria Cocktail Club.

Add cracked and cubed ice. Stir for 30 seconds. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

North Shore No. 11 Gin green Chartreuse fresh lemon juice North Shore Sirène Absinthe Verte

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

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FEAST FAVES / secret ingredient FEAST FAVES | Meet & greet

Chris McKenzie Owner, Mac’s Local Buys written by Brandon Chuang

Chris McKenzie was tired of paying $10 a pound for pork chops. Because of that, he did a little research and convinced 10 of his friends to go in on a whole Red Wattle hog. With that, Mac’s Local Buys was formed.

Photography by

J. Pollack Photography

McKenzie’s company sources premium meat by the whole animal. Individuals purchase shares – one pork share is one-quarter of a pig, one beef share is one-tenth of a cow, or about 50 pounds of beef. The animal is then custombutchered to each shareholder’s specifications. McKenzie offers a variety of heritage-breed pigs and sources Cornish Cross hens from Hermann, Mo., and grass-fed beef from Rain Crow Ranch, the suppliers for restaurants such as Five, Acero and Blood & Sand. Because the company buys the whole animal, Mac’s prices are lower than you might expect – about $4 per pound for chicken and less than $6 per pound for pork and beef. “We’re changing the way you source your meat,” explains McKenzie. “It beats butcher shops and grocery stores on price and tastes so much better.” macslocalbuys.com

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SEPTEMBER 2012

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21

Overlooking the vineyards and 74 acres of rolling hillsides in Augusta’s wine country

September 14, 15 & 16, 2012

Taste and Tour - by Reservation September 28th & October 28th

Sept 15 Oct 20

Lewis & Clark Fife and Drum Corps Misty Mountain Bluegrass The Blanchette Trio The Buckhannon Brothers Concord Hill Boys

Big Band Saturday Nights:

Soul City Dawn Weber and the Electro Funk Band

Live Music Every Saturday & Sunday. Delicious Salads, Pizzas and Panini's for Lunch. Outdoor grill open on Weekends.

Open Year Round: Monday-Friday 11am-5pm Saturday 11am-9pm • Sunday 12pm-5pm

100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, MO 63332 636-482-4500 • www.noboleisvineyards.com

MUSIC AND EVENTS CALENDAR

We’ll Plan �o See You In September!

Saturday, September 1 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Blue 66 6:00pm to 9:00pm 7-Piece E�core Ba�d Su�day, September 2 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Pat Listo� 6:00pm to 9:00pm Ticket to the Beatles Mo�day, September 3 - 2:00pm to 4:00pm Kim Massie

Enjoy the first taste of autumn at Chandler Hill. Our vines are bursting with grapes so take a moment to stroll through our vineyards. In the tasting room savor delicacies from our new menu, or sip your favorite vintage on the deck overlooking our scenic lake and rolling hills.

Saturday, September 8 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Keith Robi�so� Ba�d

�or corporate events, business meetings or private parties, no venue compares to Chandler Hill. You can reserve just a portion of the winery or the entire tasting room. Book now for upcoming holiday parties!

Saturday, September 22 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Soulard Blues Ba�d

Su�day, September 9 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Lisa Lo�do� a�d Joh� Holmes Saturday, September 15 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Scott a�d Karl Su�day, September 16 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Rogers a�d Nie�haus Su�day, September 23 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Da��y Black Saturday, September 29 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Kevi� Bilchik Trio Su�day, September 30 - 1:00pm to 4:00pm Bria� Curra� a�d A�drew Adams

Be Sure To Check Our Website For More Details A�d Special Me�us 596 Defia�ce Road Defia�ce, MO 63341 636.798.2675 V�s�t Us Onl�ne for Early Clos�ngs & More Spec�al Events!

WWW .C HA�DLER H ILL V I�EYARDS . COM

22

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SEPTEMBER 2012

Labor Day “Rockin’ In The Vines” Music �estival.

September 1st, 2�d & 3rd

Celebrate Labor Day with our fa�tastic music festival featuri�g some of the regio�’s favorite a�d most �otable musicia�s a�d ba�ds.

Each day of the weeke�d we feature the best-of-the-best as you e�joy delicious food, great wi�e a�d a fu� time.

The daily cover is just $5.00 so pla� to spe�d the day, get up a�d da�ce or just soak i� the tu�es with a great bottle of wi�e. Either way, each day promises great music, me�u specials a�d surprises!

Saturday, September 1st

1:00pm - 4:00pm Blue 66 6:00pm - 9:00pm 7-Piece E�core Ba�d

Su�day, September 2�d

1:00pm - 4:00pm Pat Listo� 6:00pm - 9:00pm Ticket to the Beatles

Mo�day, September 3rd

2:00pm - 4:00pm Kim Massie

Ki� Massie B�ues Diva

| shop-o-matic PHOTOGRAPHy by Laura Ann Miller

FEAST FAVES

North City Farmers’ Market

what’s new in old north Every Saturday morning from June through October, the streets of Old North St. Louis come alive with shoppers, live bands playing toe-tapping tunes and vibrant vendor stands selling foodstuffs, crafts, imported fair-trade goods and more at the North City Farmers’ Market.

Regulars and newcomers alike stroll the twoblock market, connecting with friends, discovering neighborhood treasures and relishing in the revitalization of the surrounding area. “There is a lot of life in this community, and the market is central to

bringing the businesses and residents together,” says Sean Thomas, executive director of Old North St. Louis Restoration Group. Nearby businesses, such as Crown Candy Kitchen and La Mancha Coffeehouse, promote the market all week long, and come Saturday, vendors send marketgoers to these establishments for a midmorning snack or memorable lunch.

According to Thomas, a number of the market stands are run by community residents selling their own goods or products from local farmers. “There are a lot of farmers’

northcityfarmersmarket. blogspot.com Old North St. Louis

markets in St. Louis, and the farmers can’t be at all of them at the same time,” he says. “We want to help bring their products to Old North St. Louis, so our residents work the stands to sell their goods.”

With two months left in market season and late-summer produce at its peak, it’s the perfect time to stop in and see what’s growing in Old North St. Louis. – B.W. St. Louis Avenue & North 14th Street, Old North St. Louis northcityfarmersmarket.blogspot.com

THREE MUST-STOP STANDS | 1 | The Old North Grocery Co-op, located just one block from the market, sets up a stand showcasing the local products sold in its store. Choose from meat, produce, jarred products and more, all sourced within a 150-mile radius of St. Louis. | 2 | Freddie Lee’s Ghetto Sauce may have started as a barbecue sauce, but this tangy condiment is recommended by owner and creator Freddie Lee James as a unique flavoring in chili and tacos, on pizza, or as a substitute for spaghetti sauce. One free sample of this delicious sauce, and you’ll be hooked. | 3 | Check out what’s in season at the 13th Street Community Garden stand. According to garden coordinator Beth Hedrick Moser, members of the volunteer-run garden harvest what’s ripe for the picking every Saturday morning to sell some of the freshest produce available around town.

|1|

|2|

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Inspired Food Culture

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SEPTEMBER 2012

FEAST FAVES

| what we’re buying

Schoolhouse ROCKS

Back to school season has us digging the look of vintage schoolhouse décor, from chalkboard walls and a letterpress print for the kitchen to charming metal hooks for hanging aprons and sleekly styled chairs in the dining room. – B.W.

| 1 | Chalkboard paint, starting at $15.99 per quart; Reineke Decorating Centers, multiple locations, reinekedecorating.com | 2 | Metal schoolhouse chair, $169; Restoration Hardware, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, restorationhardware.com | 3 | Alphabet poster, $20; Firecracker Press, 2838 Cherokee St., Cherokee Business District, firecrackerpress.com | 4 | Schoolhouse numbered hooks, $15 each; Pottery Barn, potterybarn.com

Inspired Food Culture

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Inspired Food Culture

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MY STUFF

Andrey Ivanov

General Manager and Beverage Director, Elaia and Olio written by Catherine Neville

Explain what it means to be a sommelier.

Knowledge of the menu combined with fluency in not just wine but beer, cocktails, spirits, sake, coffee and anything else that can be asked for during service is an essential tool of a sommelier’s arsenal. It is the role of the sommelier to answer questions, make suggestions but always keep the experience of the guest the paramount priority of the restaurant, whatever that may take. What level are you? Currently I am an Advanced Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. This is the third of four levels of certification that culminates with the Master Sommelier diploma. [I hope to] sit for the MS for the first time next year. You just went on a monthlong tour of Europe’s wine regions. For me, it is essential to be able to provide context and personal experience when dealing with wine. The regions I have seen range from lush to arid, from urban to completely isolated wilderness, and the wines are a direct representation of those places; we call this terroir. Experiencing a wine becomes so much more interesting and thought-provoking when there is a story to tell alongside the glass.

What do you feel is missing from the St. Louis wine scene? More somms on the floor.

When one member of your staff can educate the rest on the basics, the stigma of wine being nebulous and snobby eases drastically.

The right sommelier will create a culture of learning in your restaurant. The guest will notice this the next time their server offers them a recommendation or when a question is not met with a blank stare. What’s the vision for Elaia and Olio? For Elaia, my goal is to create a dining experience that puts food, beverage and service on equal pedestals. Olio will be a more casual bar and eatery with a great selection of wines both in glass and in bottle, a well-chosen craft beer selection, and other potables. The menu will be laid out in a way that doesn’t alienate those who don’t know what Gruner Veltliner is; it will be labeled “kinda like Pinot Grigio.” If you’ve never tasted Mencia or Marsanne, come on down; we’ll pop it open.

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Elaia and Olio 1634 Tower Grove Ave. Botanical Heights www.elaiastl.com www.oliostl.com Visit feastSTL.com to read the full interview with Andrey Ivanov, and follow the photo essay of his journey through Europe’s wine regions in our Travelogue section.

PHOTOGRAPHY By Jonathan Gayman

After steadily climbing the culinary ladder, from a high school stint at P.F. Chang’s to a position as manager and sommelier at Brasserie by Niche, Andrey Ivanov landed behind the bar at 33 Wine Shop in 2011. “The selection I got to play around with at 33 grew my scope and knowledge of the beverage world [and] allowed me to share my passion directly with the guests. There is a direct correlation between the time I spent at 33 and passing my Advanced Sommelier exam.” Earlier this year, Ben Poremba approached Ivanov with “his dream for Elaia and Olio. It was like all the stars aligned and I decided this was going to be my next venture and adventure as I start down the path towards Master Sommelier.”

OLD DUTCH HOTEL & TAVERN

Thursday nights are rocking 5- 8 p.m.

Live music, food & beverages available.

Music at the Market - Sept. 13 and Oct. 11 Sunset at the Riverfront - Aug. 23, Sept. 27 and Oct. 25 Downtown's Second Annual Murder Mystery Dinner Enjoy the suspense, clues, and drama of the “Who-dun-it?” while enjoying a delicious dinner. Oct. 18.

Come stay at Washington’s newest hotel, a fully renovated 14-room accommodation located on the two floors above the Old Dutch Tavern.

Washington Pumpkin Palooza Come and enjoy the first ever on Saturday, Oct. 27.

Located on Main Street between Elm & Cedar. This event includes our Giant Pumpkin Contest, Pumpkin Pie Bake-Off, Scarecrow Contest, Zombie Hunt, Pumpkin Seed Spitting Contest, Pumpkin Roll, Pumpkin Decorating/Carving Contest and Costume Contest. Great fun for the entire family!

The Old Dutch Hotel features: • Single-Bed Rooms (1 Queen or 1 King) and Double-Bed Rooms (2 Queens) • Adjoining Rooms • All Non-Smoking Environment • Flatscreen HDTVs • Fully Accessible Building • Conference/Meeting Room • 24-Hour On-Site Staff • On-Site Dining in Downstairs Tavern • Walking Distance to Riverfront, Amtrak Station and Downtown Shopping

Girlfriends Only! Weekend (perfect for the deer hunter widows) Nov. 9-11. All-inclusive with lodging, meals, scheduled tours and events, games and transportation around Washington.

Downtown's Thirsty Thursdays Enjoy with downtown merchants on Sept. 6 and Nov. 15.

Free wine/beer or soft drink tastings while you shop!

The Farmers’ Market Vendors, with fresh, seasonal produce and plants, jams and jellies, baked goods and crafts can be found April through Dec. (Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings) at Washington's wonderful covered facility.

Perfect for out-of-town wedding guests, visiting friends or family or business travelers.

Call or visit us online for rates and reservations.

227 Elm St., Washington, MO 63090 636.390.4400 olddutchhotelandtavern.com

636-239-2715 www.washmo.org Fine American Furnishings, Folk Art and Primitive Accents for Your Home and Garden.

Dine In, Carry Out, Catering and Delivery Shop Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4pm Sunday-Monday Closed

Doin' it the natural way

323 W. 5th Street Washington, MO 63090 Phone (636)239-3131 Fax (636)239-3139

2733 Highway T (636)742-5900 Labadie, MO. 63055 www.thetinrabbit.com

Basketcasedeli@yahoo.com WWW.thebasketcasedeli.com

Celebrating Our

estaurant In Town and Still est R e To Meet" d l O e Plac "Th

18th Year in Business!

TODD GEISERT FARMS

www.toadspigs.com • Washington, Missouri

Naturally Raised Pork

all year, fresh produce in season toadspigs@yahoo.com

314-791-6942

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SEPTEMBER 2012

29

HEADED EADED TO O A SHOW HOW? Join us for dinner before heading to The Fabulous Fox, The St. Louis Symphony or The Peabody Opera House...

Show your server your tickets.... and save 10% on your dinner!

1059 S. Big Bend Blvd.

(314) 645-3522 www.harveststlouis.com

Cannot be combined with any other offers. Tickets must be for same date as dinner. Dine-in only.

G on reat P ri H $2.1alf Hocges 9

Joe the Butcher Says:

Kenrick's Can Help You Beat The Rising Cost of Beef!

Buy Now, Stock Up and $ave Money BUY IN BULK!

Lb.

USDA Choice

USDA Choice

Hind Quarter of Beef

Side of Beef

325-350 Ibs. of Meat (Avg.) Porterhouse Steaks, T-Bone Steaks Sirloin Steaks, Round Steaks Chuck Steaks, Club Steak Cube Steaks, Rump Roast, Sirloin Roast Round Roast, Chuck Roast, Rib Steak Short Ribs, Marrow Bone 4324 Stew Meat, Ground Beef Ground Beef Patties Soup Bones

$3.09/LB.

e Us Come In &ouSe r list of many

e for or visit us onlin ezer Packages Mini Meat Fre Starting At

$49.95

30

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO

314-631-2440 www.kenricks.com

Order a Hind Quarter of Beef and Get these Specialty Cut Steaks 175-185 Ibs. of Meat (Avg.) Porterhouse Steaks T-Bone Steaks, Sirloin Steaks Round Steaks, Cube Steaks Rump Roast, Sirloin Roast Round Roast, Marrow Bone Stew Meat, Ground Beef Ground Beef Patties $3.39/LB.

All orders are cut fresh then flash frozen to assure the best quality cuts.

All bulk beef orders must be received 7 days in advance.

All USDA Choice Beef is Missouri Farm Raised.

We would be ha pp your order to m y to Split ak e it easy.

Split your orde r with a Neighb or, Friend or Co-w orker.

gadget a-go-go

|2|

Put to the test

|1|

SALAD

|3|

|4|

SPINNERS written by Pat Eby

|5| Photography by Laura Ann Miller

|1|

|2|

|3|

Progressive Ratchet Salad Spinner

OXO Good Grips Mini Salad Spinner

PROS

PROS

By far the widest, tallest spinner of the bunch. The basket colander drains well and spins freely. The lever pulls easily too. The clear plastic bowl can transition to table as a handsome salad bowl.

Great pump action twirls this little spinner ’round fast and throws off water in a flash. The bowl stays steady as it whirls. Push the brake, the action stops immediately. Because the pump operates with the push of a palm, fingers and wrists aren’t stressed. Enough greens for one or two salads emerge from the spinner nearly dry. Herbs, especially basil leaves, dried well too.

CONS

As the spinner whirls, the bowl wobbles because of the narrow base.

Its slow spin speed doesn’t fling off as much water as those that spin faster.

Lettuces, kale and basil leaves didn’t dry as thoroughly or evenly as they did in vertical pump and lever-handle spinners. $19.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

Chef’N Large Salad Spinner PROS

CONS

No cons with this OXO product, unless you need salad for a crowd, but take heart: OXO makes this spinner in a large size as well. $24.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com

The squat, round bowl sits steady on the countertop while the lever handle twirls the colander fast as a schoolyard merry-go-round. Water droplets fly off. Greens and herbs emerge nearly dry. Speedy, stable and efficient, this spinner’s easy to operate as well.

CONS

The brake button didn’t stop the spinning every time. Disengaging the lever handle from its locked position took a little muscle the first few uses. $24.99; Dillard’s, multiple locations, dillards.com

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Progressive Collapsible Salad Spinner PROS

The 5-quart bowl and the colander on this spinner collapse to a height of just 3 inches. Not only does it store compactly, but you can also stack things on top. Pretty impressive. The cord pulls out easily and evenly to turn the basket too. Collapse both bowl and colander for easy cleanup in the dishwasher. Hand-wash the lid though.

CONS

Sadly, the solid bellows that allow the colander basket to collapse impede the movement of water from greens to catch bowl. Greens didn’t dry thoroughly, even after repeated spins. $29.95; Sur la Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

The Sharper Image 4-in-1 Salad Spinner Mandoline Slicer PROS

A salad lover’s dream: two coveted veggie tools in one. Use the leveroperated spinner lid with the bowl to dry greens dressing-ready. The mandoline lid slices, grates or juliennes goodies like cucumbers, radishes, carrots and cheeses directly into the salad. Blades store in the lid too.

CONS

This dual-function tool takes up a tad more cabinet space. The mandoline blades don’t work for soft foods like tomatoes or cooked potatoes. $29.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

C h ec

ko pa g u t e

23!

W h at to l oo k for : Drying Capability: A good spinner dries thoroughly without harming the structure of the leaves. When fresh green mixes cost nearly as much as some steaks, damage control matters. Look for a salad spinner that spins greens light, lofty and dry, ready for the sheerest kiss of dressing.

Battery-operated spinners are available too, but we went for the energy-efficient, modestly priced manual designs.

Colander: The basket colander should be open and airy yet sturdy enough to go more than a few rounds without cracking.

Check for clean construction and strong connection points.

Baskets should have a bit of flex too, for durability.

Materials: Plastic or stainless steel; choose your price point. The average price for plastics hovers around $27; stainless models start at twice that and go up to $200. Stainless spinners often use plastic colanders and housings for the spin mechanism, the parts that take the most abuse.

Spinning Mechanism: Salad spinners act as centrifuges, and cord pulls, cranks, ratcheting levers or pumps provide the whirl.

Cord-action models and cranks are generally less expensive.

Pumps or ratcheting levers make repeated spins much easier, but they must be completely dried and locked to store. Note:

Spin Velocity: The spin shouldn’t bruise, crease or discolor delicate greens but must be fast enough to remove excess water thoroughly.

Storage: Even a little salad spinner takes up a ton of cabinet space. That said, they save time. And if you aren’t buying prewashed bagged greens, you’ll save money too. The trade-off seems worth the gains.

It’s prime produce time!

Learn about a new place to get your favorite green (and red, and purple, and orange, and yellow) things in this month’s Shop-O-Matic!

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

31

ON the shelf

BEER written by Michael Sweeney

The creator of STLHops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.

Widmer Brothers Brewing Co.’s Omission Lager STYLE: American Pale Lager (4.6% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, parkerstable.com; $8.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Smoked baby back ribs • ParmigianoReggiano

If you follow this column, you’ll notice there has never been a review for a gluten-free beer. That’s because there has never been one worthy of talking about. Until now. The Omission Lager from Widmer actually tastes like beer. It’s crisp, clean and has a nice hop bite.

Schlafly’s Oktoberfest STYLE: Oktoberfest/Märzen (5.5% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Randall's Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $7.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Bratwurst • Chewy pretzel

Despite the name, Oktoberfest in Munich actually begins in September. Created specifically for the season, the Märzen (also known as an Oktoberfest) is an easy-drinking, malty lager made to quench thirst and provide plenty of social lubrication. Schlafly’s version is a classic example of the style with bold maltiness that keeps you coming back for more.

Odell Brewing Co.’s 90 Shilling Ale STYLE: Scottish Ale (5.3% abv) AVAILABLE AT: Whole Foods Market, multiple locations, wholefoodsmarket.com; $8.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) Pairings: Bangers and mash • Sharp Cheddar

There’s nothing quite like revisiting an old favorite only to find you forgot how great that beer is. First brewed way back in 1989, Odell’s 90 Shilling is the company's flagship beer, and it’s easy to see why.

This beer features a complex maltiness that’s wellbalanced with just enough hop presence to keep it from being too sweet.

SPIRITS written by Chad Michael George

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Cocchi Barolo Chinato Provenance: Piedmont, Italy (16.5% abv) Available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $59.99 Try it: Neat, out of the fridge

Barolo Chinato is a tasty sibling to traditional sweet vermouths. It starts as a Barolo and is infused with up to 20 botanicals including rhubarb, ginger and quinquina bark. Cocchi brings us some fantastic aromatized wines, and its Chinato follows suit. Use it as a sweet vermouth substitute in your favorite cocktail recipes or simply enjoy it neat. There isn’t a better way to start or finish a meal. If you opt for the latter, pair it with some dark chocolate.

Salers Aperitif La Bounoux Gentiane Liqueur Provenance: France (16% abv) Available at: Randall's Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $19.99 Try it: On the rocks with a squeeze of lemon

Salers comes from Massif Central, the birthplace of gentiane aperitifs, which are gaining ground in the local mixology scene even though they have been around for centuries in France. Yellow gentiane flowers are used to produce this tasty liqueur. After distillation, Salers is aged in Limousin oak casks. Bittersweet flavors dominate, but also look for a touch of mint and citrus with earthy, chalky undertones.

Byrrh Grand Quinquina Provenance: France (18% abv) Available at: Randall's Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $18.99 Try it: Over a few rocks or as a substitute for sweet vermouth in a Manhattan

Byrrh (pronouced "beer") is yet another classic French spirit that is now available in the U.S. Muscat mistelle serves as the base, to which grenache and macabeu wines are added. Quinquina barks from South America and aromatics, including bitter orange and coffee, are then added, and the blend is aged in oak barrels. The finished product is full of ripe fruit flavors with just enough bitterness and spiciness to balance it out.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR SEPTEMBER Pouring wine photography by ©iStockphoto.com/Lauri Patterson

WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

Domaine Serene "R" Rosé, N.V. Provenance: Oregon Available at: West End Wines, 4906 Laclede Ave., Central West End, westendwines.com; $29.99 Pairings: Brie • Ahi tuna • Lamb chops

With the expressed goal of redefining rosé while paying homage to dry European styles, this prominent Northwest producer created what could be the perfect Oregon pink. The striking color clues you in to the lush and robust notes of cherries and raspberries as well as the bold structure. An amazing balance of acidity, fruit and tannin makes this an ideal food-pairing wine.

Arindo Verdejo 2011 Provenance: Rueda, Spain Available at: Saint Louis Cellars, 2640 S. Big Bend Blvd., Maplewood, saintlouiscellars.com; $12.99 Pairings: Chilled soups • Grilled seafood • Olives

Fresh, juicy and ripe are all words that come to mind when one is describing the Spanish grape Verdejo. Vibrant citrus, apple and tropical fruits come together in the aromas and on the palate with this round yet crisp white wine. Subtle herbal notes emerge while a clean minerality lingers in the wine's expressive and dry finish.

Casas Patronales Carmenere 2010 Provenance: Maule Valley, Chile Available at: Randall's Wine and Spirits, multiple locations, shoprandalls.com; $8.99 Pairings: Mature cheeses • Chicken mole • Meatloaf

For many years, Carmenere grapes grown in Chile were mistaken for Merlot. This makes Chilean Carmenere a perfect choice for Merlot lovers looking to branch out. Ripe with soft tannins, this velvety red showcases red berry and black fruit flavors with undertones of mocha, cedar and tobacco. A fine wine to enjoy while we transition into the lower temperatures of fall.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST for a happy hour wine tasting at Water Street on Thu., Sept. 20, at 6pm. RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

JOIN US! Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

33

mystery shopper

Vegan Dragon Fruit Iscream!

By Kerry Soraci, I Scream Cakes

A lush ice cream with just a hint of ginger. The dragon fruit blends creamily and offers a bit of crunch from tiny black seeds for an interesting texture. Vibrant pink dragon fruit shells make beautiful serving dishes.

Serves | 8 |

1

2

½ cup 1½ inches

14-oz can coconut milk dragon fruit agave nectar fresh ginger root, peeled and grated zest of ¼ lime

| Preparation | In a saucepan, bring the coconut milk to a low boil over medium heat. Continue to boil, uncovered, for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and cool. Cut the dragon fruit in half lengthwise and scoop out the center into a mixing bowl. Mash the flesh with a fork. Add agave nectar, grated ginger and lime zest to cooled coconut milk. Add mashed dragon fruit and blend with a stick blender until smooth. Refrigerate mixture for 4 hours and then prepare in an ice cream maker, following the manufacturer’s directions. Serve ice cream

PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg

in reserved dragon fruit shells, bowls or cones.

MEET: Dragon Fruit You really have to see a dragon fruit to believe it. Encased in an almostfluorescent magenta skin, a dragon fruit is about the size of a softball with green leaves that grow upward from its skin like scales on a dragon.

It really does appear otherworldly when sliced open. Its flesh can be milky white or fiery pink with small black seeds throughout and is quite vibrant showcased against the magenta skin.

Stop by 34

feastSTL.com

Written by Erik Jacobs

What is it?

How do I use it?

Also called pitaya, dragon fruit are actually the fruit

Dragon fruit takes center stage in fruit salad, both

of a species of cactus. Native to Central and South

visually and flavor-wise. Add a former Mystery

America, dragon fruit are now grown extensively

Shopper ingredient, lychee, for an exotic and

throughout Southeast Asia and are normally

intensely flavored treat. Make a bowl from the

available at Asian markets and specialty grocers.

shell by slicing a dragon fruit lengthwise, scooping

Legend (or perhaps a savvy marketer) suggests that

out most of the flesh and adding a scoop of sorbet.

the dragon fruit was the product of fire-breathing

Just remind your guests not to eat the skin, as

dragons, the fruit being a highly prized treasure to

it is tough, bitter and inedible. If you prefer your

be presented to the conqueror upon the dragon’s

desserts in cocktail form, dragon fruit are easily

death. Thankfully, dragon fruit tastes nothing like

juiced. Experiment with different rums or vodkas

dragon breath. Its flavor is similar to ripe pear, but

for a truly signature drink.

with a bit more acidity, and also includes hints of mango and papaya.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring dragon fruit. Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations.

SEPTEMBER 2012

check it out!

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SEPTEMBER 2012

35

tECH SCHOOL

Pickling STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassy Vires

I have written about numerous preserving techniques. Let’s say it is a passion of mine. Although I have covered so many, I finally get to write about my favorite: pickling. I remember once as a child I stumbled upon my aunt’s larder. I thought it was the perfect place to hide from my brother and the chickens I had made enemies of. I flipped the light switch, and a dim glow filled the room. I remember thinking it was a magical place. Jars and pots filled with fruits, vegetables and meats lined the walls.

Some of them were overgrown with cobwebs, obviously not disturbed for years. When I asked my aunt what I had stumbled on, she simply replied, “I hate waste.”

Pickling is a preservation technique that extends the shelf life of ingredients, making it an ideal way to store perishables without the need for refrigeration.

Pickling dates back thousands of years, but it is actually one of the more contemporary preserving techniques; air-drying and smoking were most likely the first ways cultures preserved foods, including meat. Sugaring, jellying, salting and burying are other ways that humans have preserved their food. Canning was introduced relatively late; it was developed during the Napoleonic Wars.

Pickling can be achieved with salt as well as vinegar. In Europe around the 16th century, the price of salt began to fall, and it became more readily available, causing brining to become a common technique for the poor. People with the means to do so discovered that vinegar had a pleasant taste and used that to preserve their foods. Specialty dishes were even created to store and serve food pickled in vinegar, as the high acid content would erode traditional china.

Vinegar is ideal for food preservation. It has high levels of acetic acid and good bacteria created during fermentation. This good bacteria creates an environment where bad bacteria simply cannot grow, making vinegar a simple preserving agent. In order to keep any additional bacteria out, pickled food should be consumed within a few weeks or canned. It is important to follow proper canning procedures, and there are many tutorials available on that subject.

As the seasons are changing, take advantage of the last of summer’s crops and extend their availability all through the winter.

I mean, who wouldn’t want to enjoy garlic scapes in December?

Cassy Vires is the owner and chef of Home Wine Kitchen. She received her culinary training in Houston and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

Pickled Radishes Yield | 3 cups | 1 bunch ½ cup ½ cup ¼ cup 1 tsp

red radishes apple cider vinegar water honey kosher salt

Watch chef Cassy put her pickling tips into practice in this step-by-step video.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

36

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

quarter radishes and then

| 2 | pack them tightly into a glass container. | 3 | Combine remaining ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil. | 4 | Carefully pour the hot brine over the radishes. Place a plate

or other heavy object on top of the vegetables to keep them submerged. Cover and refrigerate.

Allow to cure for 24 hours.

ONLINE EXTRA! Go to feastSTL.com to get numerous pickling recipes from chef Cassy.

Pickled Vegetable Salad This simple salad packs a punch and is a great way to utilize all those pickled vegetables. Served as an appetizer or as a light lunch, this salad has a mix of sweet, tangy, spicy and herbaceous qualities that is a great way to remember the flavors of summer.

Serves | 4 |

COOKING VIDEO!

| Preparation | | 1 | Clean and

3 Tbsp 4 cups 4 cups ¼ cup

unsalted butter pickled vegetables arugula fresh mint, torn into small pieces kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation | Heat a large skillet over high heat and melt the butter until it starts to brown. Add the pickled vegetables and sauté until warmed through. Remove from heat and let sit for 1 minute.

In a large bowl, combine the arugula and mint. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the sautéed vegetables and toss quickly until the arugula is lightly coated in the butter. Adjust seasoning as needed and serve immediately.

|1|

|2|

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

|3|

|4| Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

37

how to

how to

Eat A whole fish written by Brandon Chuang

In your mis-eaten youth, you may have turned your nose up at fish sticks, but over the years, you’ve come to love what the ocean has to offer. You order the off-menu rainbow trout when out to dinner, you adore sushi and sashimi, and there isn’t a halibut dish in the world that you don’t like. But whole fish, well, that’s a completely different matter. For those of you who have a few bones to pick with the idea, we’re going to take out the intimidation and show you just how simple it is to enjoy eating fish whole.

Step One: Line it up What’s easier than carving up a whole fish? Carving up half of one. When you’re presented with a whole fish, the first step is to make an incision with your knife, lengthwise, from gill to tail. Don’t cut too deep; use just enough pressure to cut through the flesh, but stop once you hit bone.

Step Two: Guide your way When cooked properly, most fish will slide right off the skeleton. From your original cut, insert your knife underneath the flesh, and use the spine as a guide to separate it from gill to tail. Use your fork to help hold the meat, and gently pull it away from the body of the fish. Repeat for the other half of the fillet. In some instances, the top fillet may still be attached to the underside of the fish; simply use your knife to delicately separate the two sides.

Step Three: Don’t flip out Once you’ve removed the topside fillet, your first instinct may be to flip the fish over. Don’t. Not only is it exercising poor table manners, but it’s also a cultural faux pas, with many people believing that the flipping of a fish is indicative of fishing boats turning over at sea. Instead, run your knife underneath the spine to divide it from the underside flesh.

Step Four: Lift off Now that your bottom fillet is completely separated from the bone, use your knife and fork to lift the carcass away from the meat. Once it’s been removed, you’re left with delicious deboned fillets. A word of warning: Make sure to still be careful while eating. Just because we’ve deboned the fish doesn’t guarantee there aren’t any bones in the meat. And we wouldn’t want you choking after you’ve come so far.

Wait, did we tell you to discard that fish carcass? No, we said remove it. That’s because what many people consider to be the best part of the fish is still on the bone.

The cheek, in between the gill and the eye, is oftentimes the most tender piece of flesh. Use a spoon or fork to gently scoop out the cheek and pop it in your mouth.

See? We told you.

38

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

Illustration by Derek Bauman

Cheeky eating

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• Go Ahead, Dunk it!

• See What happens when you pair our family's wines with one of our biscotti selections.

• When that perfect match is found, the best is brought out in both the wine and the biscottithey're a perfect compliment!

Live Music Under the Grape Arbor Every Saturday in September and October.

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Annual Events

you don't want to miss!

Wine Diva Weekend:

Jour de la Terre

Souper Wine Weekend:

April 20 and 21, 2013

November 17 and 18, 2012 January 19 and 20, 2013

Romancing the Grape: February 9 and 10, 2013

www.rdvwinetrail.com

(Earth Day):

Progressive Meal: May 18 and 19, 2013

245 Merchant Street Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670

1-800-398-1298

www.saintegenevievewinery.com

Ste. Genevieve Plein Air Painting Event September 28th - October 7th

Join in Painting Sessions $35 Registration fee

Call for Artists Generous cash prizes,10-day show and sale Field-to-finish contest. Multiple paint-outs.

Info at www.artstegen.org or Find us on Facebook or call Karen at 573.883.9199 Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

39

2012 BMW 328i µJ&/ |()3/ Starting at

34,900

$

Financing available through BMW Financial Services

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Come see us in Historic Downtown Alton!

Bossanova Restaurant and Lounge offers a modern hip atmosphere, our James Bond inspired martini list, 60 beers by the bottle and casual American menu with something for everyone. We feature artisan pizzas with our famous in house crust, fresh salads and world inspired entrées. We make biweekly trips to the Alton Farmer's market to source from local suppliers and our Monday $5 pizza is still the best deal in town! There's a lot to see and do in our historic entertainment, retail, loft district of Downtown Alton!

Come on over!

Mon-Thurs 4pm-2am, Fri-Sat 4pm-3am, Sunday 5pm-2am

restaurant & lounge

112 W. Third St. • Alton, IL • 618.462.1175 • altonbossa.com

Let Mama make it for you...

Deep Dish Pizza, Sandwhiches, Salads and More!

Happy Hour Specials Monday through Friday 3-6pm Drink Specials & Free Appetizers Dine In, Carry Out and Neighborhood Delivery $5 off any appetizer with purchase of any style 14" or 16" pizza with this coupon.

7704 Ivor y • St. Louis • 314.638.8676 • facebook.com/mamagustos314

You can't beat our meat!

For over 81 years, the Wenneman family business has been a tradition for many people in the St. Louis Metropolitan area. With total commitment to customer satisfaction as their primary objective, we place great emphasis on product quality and customer service.

Wenneman Meat Company is a full service, federally inspected, old fashioned butcher shop and meat market.

We produce a complete line of our own meat, deli and poultry products. Our formulations and recipes have been passed down for generations, and remain unchanged, while continuing to grow our product lines.

Retail and Wholesale

7415 State Rt 15 • St. Libor y, IL • 618.768.4328 • wenneman.com

Chicken Dinner Sundays Buy one chicken dinner Get one chicken dinner FREE Expires September 30, 2012. Dine-in only.

114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

41

EASY EATS

an ethereal treat Story and recipe by Tory Bahn

Squash blossoms are the beautiful and delicate orange-yellow flowers of young zucchini. Sought-after for their green and mildly earthy flavor, they are harvested for culinary purposes before they fully open. Although no longer blooming in local gardens, squash blossoms can still be sourced through retailers. Among its many applications, the blossom can be fried, baked, sautéed, added to soups or used raw as garnish. Alone, the blossoms take center stage in many Latin-American and Italian kitchens. This recipe follows a very traditional Italian approach of stuffing with cheeses and frying to lightly crisped perfection.

JOIN US! rsvp:

cooks.com schnucks 704 or 314.909.1 Serves | 8 to 12 |

vegetable oil, for frying

8 oz

ricotta

3 Tbsp

2

1½ tsp

¾ tsp

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

freshly ground black

fresh mozzarella,

8 oz

chopped

8 to 12

zucchini blossoms

1 cup

1¼ cups

all-purpose flour chilled club soda or

sparkling water

freshly grated

¼ cup

CHEF’S

Parmigiano-Reggiano

way up with the cheese mixture. Lightly

inches of vegetable oil in a large, deep saucepan to 375°F. Have ready tongs and a sheet tray lined with paper towels.

twist the top of the blossom closed. Set

In a medium bowl, mix ricotta, basil, lemon zest, 1 tsp salt, pepper and mozzarella. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Fill a pastry bag about 1/3 of the way with ricotta-mozzarella mixture and snip off end of the pastry bag.

together in a medium bowl. Do this

Carefully open the zucchini flowers just slightly and cut or pull out the stamen.

Gently fill each flower about ¾ of the

tongs and set on paper-towel-lined tray.

Feast extra

aside on a prepared tray.

Mix flour, club soda and remaining salt just before you are ready to fry. Dip blossoms in batter to coat and add to hot oil in 2 batches. Let cook about 3 to 4 minutes or until golden-brown.

Gently remove blossoms from oil with Sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano and serve immediately.

|

Fry daddy. When you are deep-frying, it’s extremely important to have your oil at the proper temperature. If it’s not hot enough, your food will absorb too much oil and take longer to brown. This results in an extremely greasy and less crisp product. If it’s too hot, your item may burn on the exterior and remain raw on the interior. To maintain your oil temperature according to the recipe’s instructions, check it out! always use a deep-fat thermometer.

Join FEAST and Schnucks Cooking School on Wed., Sept. 26, at 6pm to make the tasty dishes in the menu above. Tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine.

RSVP at schnuckscooks.com.

42

sea salt, divided pepper

|

PHOTOGRAPHY by Jennifer Silverberg

lemons, zested

Check out feastSTL.com for a step-by-step slide show on making this month’s dish.

fresh basil, chopped

| Preparation | Heat at least 4 to 6

Batter up. The purpose of using carbonated liquid in the batter is to provide a light and puffy crust. Timing is essential. You do not want to prepare your batter ahead of time and let it sit. As it sits, the air bubbles from the carbonation will escape, and those air bubbles are what help create the crisp, lofty coating you seek. Seltzer, club soda and beer are all workable options; however, the color and flavor of beer may slightly alter your final product.

Comedy Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre “Mayhem in Mayberry” Welcome to the 10th annual “Miss Mayberry” contest. YOU decide who will walk away with the crown as the contestants are chosen from the audience. Will it be Dazy Doof from Hazaard county? Or the beautiful hillbilly, Elly May Klumpett? How ‘bout the charming Paris Hoosier from Hoosierville?

Join Sheriff Andy, Deputy Blarney and Aint Bee for a night of merriment and murder in this interactive comedy mystery served with a 4-course meal to DIE for! Make your reservations now; it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much FUN!

Bring in this ad for $10.00 off per person.

Valid thru September, 2012. Not valid for groups.

4426 Randall Pl. • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

Shuttle to ALL Cards home games!

SouthTown Pub has joined with executive chef, Jamie Brust, to form SouthTown Pub and Smoke Shack. Utilizing many local vendors and markets, we have a unique menu of mouth watering BBQ, featuring five signature sauces. SouthTown Pub has also recently undergone extensive renovation to better serve ourcustomers as well as reflect the unique charm that is South St. Louis City. Our hope is to provide a fun and friendly atmosphere for many years to come.

Crawfish Boil every other Sunday in September!

Come In For $2 BBQ Taco Tuesdays!

Our Beer Garden is OPEN! 3707 South Kingshighway Blvd. • St. Louis • 314.832.9009 •

• southtownpub.com

New Wine Garden — Now Open!

Wine Shop, Tasting Bar, Wine Garden, and Wine Accessories...

Whether you're a seasoned wine drinker with a specific palate or a new wine drinker unsure of what to try or what you might like, Chateau La Vin is the place for you.

Just a short drive to Historic Main Street in Columbia, IL brings you to Chateau La Vin. Enjoy our cheese selections along with your wine and make it a fun afternoon or evening with friends in our cozy inside setting or in our new outside wine garden! Wine not your thing? We have a great selection of specialty beers too! We now carry wine accessories, decanters, openers, wine preservers, gift bags, and more!

119 South Main Street • Columbia, IL • 618.281.8117 • Like us on Facebook

• chateaulavin.com

Bertarelli Cutlery family owned and operated since 1967.

• All Knives are done by hand.

• All Knives are sharpened with temperature controlled whetstones.

• Knives can be sharpened most times while you wait.

• We carry great brands such as Allclad, Scanpan, Jura Capresso, Cuisnart, Emile Henry and Kuhn Rikon • We also carry great knife lines such as Wusthof, Global, Forschner, Shun, and much more!

We specialize in meat slicers, commercial mixer repair, and can also repair Kitchenaid.

We are the guys who supply the knives to most of the great restaurants in the St. Louis Metro area.

1927 Marconi Avenue • St. Louis "The Hill" • 314.664.4005 •

• bertarellicutlery.com

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

43

Written by Brandon Chuang

|

photography by Jonathan Gayman

18-1755 TPX is the Pantone color number for Rouge Red. According to Chris Bork, that’s the color of the shirt he’s currently wearing while sitting at the bar, right outside his kitchen, at Blood & Sand. His co-workers disagree: Bartenders, servers and hostesses alike reach a unanimous decision that the shirt is, in fact, sockeye salmon. It says something about a place when the color of one’s shirt is described using a type of fish indigenous to the northern Pacific Ocean and its tributaries – especially when salmon or, better yet, pink would do – but such is the company that Bork keeps. The goodnatured argument goes back and forth for a few minutes, ending only once everyone’s jokes have run out. As the staff members regroup and busy themselves with work, Bork shakes his head and, seemingly only to himself, chortles, “But it is rouge.”

Chris Bork is all about the details. In a town that has its fair share of renowned chefs, you may have yet to familiarize yourself with him or his work, but you’d be hard-pressed to not be able to put together that he’s a chef. His arms are, of course, tattooed – on one side a pinup girl and on the other a meat cleaver. He likes his jeans skinny and slightly rolled, his glasses plastic and nerdy, and his beer cold and Busch. It’s like he came straight from central casting: a request fulfilled for a young urban chef. As the chef of the young, urban, members-only entertainment amalgam that is Blood & Sand, he fits right in.

Bork has been quietly building a buzz based on the madscientist–like creations that come out of his kitchen six nights a week. With a constantly changing menu, his food is contemporary without bowing to trends. Pecan

agnolotti with sunchoke and goat cheese; sausage made from lobster, salmon and scallops – thank Jobs for iPhones because even the savviest of foodists may have to Google an ingredient or two when looking over the menu.

“We try to have fun with it,” explains Bork over a beer after work; he’s already said his requisite hellos to the staff at the bar he’s taken me to. “My goal is to make food that’s interesting and cool but also recognizable and approachable.”

And Bork makes interesting food all the time – the result of being the chef at the city’s only private restaurant and bar. Blood & Sand members pay monthly dues to have the opportunity to drink and dine at the Downtown space, and much of those dues goes to purchasing the freshest and best ingredients. His clientele expects more because it literally pays for it. Each week a new menu is printed up, and each week Bork and his crew add a few new dishes. No dish is safe from elimination or tinkering.

“Except the tater tots,” Bork says about the truffled tots dusted with Parmesan that sit on his bar menu. “I’ll never screw with the tater tots.”

Bork must really love his job because he lives right next to it. Literally. He shares a ground-floor loft with his girlfriend, Toni Monaghan, and their dog, Anchovy. It’s here, on what has to be one of the few private residential patios in Downtown St. Louis, that Bork’s work begins.

A circular glass table sits in one corner of the patio. On it lays a MacBook (chewed up, courtesy of Anchovy), a pack

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FEAST FAVE • Cleveland-Heath Chop Chop Salad Mixed greens, egg, roasted chicken, Rensing’s bacon, blue cheese $7 Lunch - 1/2 salad + cup of soup PATIO NOW OPEN Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am

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Blumenhof Vineyards and Winery Open daily year - round

Happy hour drink specials 4-6 every Friday, live music every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday (check blumenhof.com for more details).

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Oishi in Japanese means Delicious Experience the entertainment and masterful cooking all right in front of you Fresh food prepared daily Oishi has a Lobster Roll which is the “First Lobster roll in Saint Louis.”

Great place for Family Entertainment Happy Hour Specials Private Rooms Birthday Specialty

15% off your meal *Must be on Hand and can’t be combined with any other promotional specials.

Valid only at the chesterfield location, not including drinks. Expires September 30th, 2012

100 Public Works Dr. Chesterfield, MO • 636-530-1198 • oishistl.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

47

of cigarettes and a requisite ashtray, old menu inserts from the restaurant, and basically the entire culinary section of your favorite bookstore.

“I read a lot,” Bork says sheepishly. “I’m constantly reading books and websites, watching TV; anything I can find on food, I take it in.”

Even on a short trip to the bathroom, I notice that he has Anthony Bourdain’s Medium Raw and – I kid you not – an Italian Michelin Guide from 1979 sitting atop his toilet. When I come out, I ask straightaway if he staged that since he knew I was coming.

“That’s been there practically since we moved in,” sighs Monaghan.

“It’s real. He’s just that obsessed about food.”

It’s that obsession that drives Bork to sit on his patio for hours at a time.

Reading. Writing. Planning. His purveyors provide him with lists upon lists of vegetables, fruits and proteins, and it’s here under a darkened sky after a long day in the kitchen that he mashes it all together.

There’s no defined methodology to what Bork does, but he usually begins by thumbing through one of his books: Thomas Keller’s Under Pressure, Chris Cosentino’s Beginnings, A Girl and Her Pig by April Bloomfield. Those are just the spines that are visible from where I sit.

And while he boasts that his library is constantly growing, it’s hard to see how he can keep coming back to the same books for new ideas.

“Any cook who tells you that he made something up completely on his own is lying,” says Bork. “Everything comes from something. I can go back to the same books and take one idea from one dish and put a twist on it to make it my own.”

He also YouTubes. A lot.

In between this back and forth – books, computer, books, computer – there’s hurried scrawling on the backs of old menus, an irony that I’m not sure even Bork is aware of: his old creations as a canvas for the new. Words are everywhere; Vietnamese egg cake; fig leaf; and his favorite seasonal love, corn – a slew of

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On October 3, from 5:50—9:30 p.m., please Join Discovering Options, a local 501.c3 devoted to delivering evidence-based after-school programming to children living in poverty and meet the IRON KIDS, children from our programs that participated in a local chef-led cooking clinic. You will get to sample their creations, vote on your favorite, enjoy appetizers from Whole Foods Market , a Kakao Hot chocolate bar, tastings by Vom Fass, drinks, adult balloon art, Fish Eye Photo fun and silent and live auctions!

The Thaxton Speakeasy 1009 Olive Street Saint Louis, MO 63101 General Tickets are $100.00 VIP tickets are $150.00 Purchase your tickets on line: www.discoveringoptions.org call: 314-721-8116 for more details

Something Different

Vino van Gogh

Looking for something different from the typical dinner-and-drinks night out?

Ditch the cocktail dress and don your smock!

Vino van Gogh combines drinks, great company and creativity of all skill levels.

Sign up, show up, try the local fare and consider a kick-start to creativity with a little vino.

Follow the artist's instruction to create your own work-of- art!

Vino van Gogh artists are mobile, so that Vino's patrons can attend events in their neighborhood and support their local restaurants. For more information, visit www.VinoGogh.com or call 866.390.9917.

Use online promo code "Feast" at www.VinoGogh.com to save $10.

Hurry, this promotion expires October 15, 2012.

©2012 Vino van Gogh LLC

Sept 5 - Nadoz Cafe/Wine Bar in Brentwood/Clayton Sept 6 - Cyrano's in Webster Groves Sept 8 - Molly's in Soulard Sept 9 - McCormick & Schmick's in Des Peres Sept 11 & 24 - Villa Farotto in Chesterfield Valley Sept 13 & 25 - The Melting Pot in Town and Country Sept 14 - The Art Center in Washington Sept 16 - Mosiac in Des Peres Sept 22 - Sherlock's in Cottleville/O'Fallon Sept 29 - TBA in Brentwood Sept 30 - TBA in Forest Park Events added monthly Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

49

arrows crisscrossing the page – circles, question marks, more arrows. At a glance, it’s chaos, especially as you get to the bottom of the page.

“That’s usually after I’ve been out here for a few hours and had a few beers,” explains Bork.

In the end, though, it’s meticulous in its detail. Bork sketches out every last ingredient and component for each dish. Sometimes it takes him only an hour or two out here, with Earth, Wind & Fire playing in the background.

Sometimes it takes him three. Sometimes more. Once his mock menu is complete, he can begin to whittle it down. Later, he’ll start with a fresh piece of old menu and rewrite the dishes in a more organized fashion, shifting things around as he goes if it feels right. Even if he rewrites every last concept anew, something will always be changing. Evolving. Out of all the dishes he dreams up, only two or three will make the menu.

At 11:30 on a Thursday night, Chris Bork opens the back door to Blood & Sand. Apparently he’s not that under the radar because he’s just finished serving an eight-course meal to a party that included staffers from Bon Appetit magazine. (Bork’s recipe for Lemongrass-Basil Sherbet appeared in Bon Appetit’s August 2012 issue.) For a chef who just went through the culinary equivalent of taking the SATs eight times in a row, he seems oddly at ease and relaxed.

“Come on in,” he smiles. “You want a Busch?”

Gathered around a table in the dining room, beers in hand, is his crew: sous chef Casey Kohler and cook Chris Krzysik. Together, they talk about the things you’d imagine most young male cooks talk about: food and girls. It’s an after-service ritual that occurs every few weeks as they mull over menu ideas and spitball new ones. Tonight, Krzysik is excited about the idea of soup dumplings.

Fall is in the air ... Comfort food & cozy atmosphere. Where you are always treated like family.

Chicken, steak, pasta, seafood, salads & sandwiches. Dine-in or carry-out, full bar, large groups, outdoor patio.

Only 25 minutes form St. Louis. 255 N to Fosterburg Rd. Exit 13. Super easy to get to.

Open at 11am daily for lunch and dinner (Closed Mondays).

See our website for August events and specials www.castellis255.com

3400 Fosterburg Rd. • Alton, IL • 618.462.4620 • castellis255.com

Monty's Sandwich Company Where the Sandwich is King -

French Dip Cheesesteaks Pulled Pork Hot Pastrami Reubens 1/2lb Burgers Hand Cut Fries

- Scratch-made soups - Delicious Wraps & Garden Fresh Salads - Open for Breakfast & Lunch - Catering and Boxed Lunches for board room meetings or special events.

- We roast and smoke all of our meats in house using only the finest cuts.

Hours 8am-3pm, Mon-Sat, Closed on Sundays

200 N. Broadway, Ste. 110 • St. Louis, MO • 314.241.7900 •

• STLmontys.com

Simply the best Steaks and Seafood Kreis’ serves the finest USDA Prime Mid Western Corn-fed Beef,aged four to six weeks in house. We offer an extensive choice of the classic Steak Cuts and Seafood including our famous Prime Rib. Simply the best available-Top 2%. As well as Colorado Lamb Chops, the best you can buy!

TRY OUR SUMMER SPECIALS! Bring In This Ad For

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*Valid only with purchases of two dinner entrees. Dine-in only. Not valid on holidays, restaurant special events or with any other discount. See web site for exclusions. Tax and tip not included. Expires 9/30/12.

535 S. Lindbergh • St. Louis • 314.993.0735 • kreisrestaurant.com

Fine Dining and 20% Off Dinner at Trattoria Branica • Starting september 10th join us sunday brunch featuring items french toast, Italian desserts and much more!

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Trattoria Branica 10411, Clayton Rd., Suite III, Frontenac, MO 63131 •trattoriabranica.com Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

51

“I know it’s not really the season for it,” Krzysik admits, “but I really want to do it.”

Bork is completely on board. “Go for it, man.” He then proceeds to give a minilesson on soup dumplings, asking Krzysik if he’s seen the giant ones in Asia that come with a straw stuck in the middle for slurping. All the while, Krzysik is scribbling in a pocket notebook that definitely wasn’t there a minute ago.

The three continue talking, yay-ing and nay-ing ideas and throwing out terms you rarely hear on cooking channels.

“What if we used agar-agar?”

“Can we oil-poach that?”

When talk turns to the idea of stuffing okra, Bork runs to the kitchen to grab a few pieces and a paring knife to experiment. While he’s gone, I ask the two guys sitting before me what it’s like to work with Bork.

“We’re blue-collar cooks,” Kohler says about the kitchen mentality. “We just care about making good food, not just for the customers but for ourselves.

That’s all Chris cares about too. He’s a chef’s chef.”

When Bork returns, veggies and knife in hand, they begin dissecting the okra and discussing options for how to stuff it. The experiment never reaches a definitive conclusion but instead is set aside for now, left to be tinkered with another day.

It’s now 11:30 in the morning, a few days later, and for once Chris Bork looks tired. He quickly perks up, however, once we start getting ingredients out of the walk-in. Bork is working on dishes for a special-event dinner centered on corn. He pulls out a basic outline of what he wants to do: It’s the word corn followed by his usual list of ingredients and ways to prepare them.

Bork quickly heats up a sauté pan and begins making an egg mixture for tamago yaki, a Japanese omelet that is folded over to create multiple layers.

“When we started on this menu, I knew that I wanted to incorporate uni (seaurchin) because I knew its saltiness would work well with corn,” explains Bork about the genesis of his dish. “Then I decided on tamago yaki because I liked the idea of egg on egg.”

Adding butter to the pan, he heats the egg mixture and rolls it up in a matter

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Visit Two of Missouri’s Premier Wineries Just Minutes from St. Louis!

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SEPTEMBER 2012

53

of seconds before placing it on a cutting board for slicing. He places the pieces of tamago yaki in a serving bowl and adds slivers of uni before topping it with roasted corn and kombu, Japanese seaweed, which he reserved from the dashi broth he made specifically for this dish and pickled. He then pulls out the dashi, which he also has turned into a gelée using the coagulant agaragar. When asked why he decided to turn the dashi into a gelée, he responds with a shrug, “Why not?”

Squeezing it out of the tube and onto our fingers, we try it.

“It’s not bad,” I say.

“It’s not great,” Bork responds.

Discarding it on the counter, he then pours the cold liquid dashi over the dish, just like one of the options in his notes details.

Handing me a spoon, we try it.

“That’s pretty decent,” I say.

“It’s missing something,” says Bork. “And it doesn’t need the kombu.”

He grabs two more sauté pans and throws sesame seeds in one and dashi broth in the other. Making another batch of tamago yaki, he prepares a freestyled version of the dish sans kombu and this time with sesame seeds and hot dashi. After trying it, Bork smiles.

“Not a bad breakfast.”

He makes another one, the exact same way, except this time he uses rice seasoning instead of just sesame seeds. He grabs Kohler and Krzysik to try it. Both agree that it’s good, and with that a dish is born. Only three more to go, each undergoing similar creation processes, before the special-event dinner in four days.

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“I love it,” Bork confesses about the special menus that he’s coming to be known for. Members can attend one of the frequent events that are put on throughout the year, such as the corn-focused event, or they can simply come in for dinner and request that Bork whip up whatever he wants – a true one-to-one American translation of omakase, Japanese for “I’ll leave it to you” – assuming the kitchen isn’t too busy. “When you pull it off and people like it – that building of flavors and heaviness from course to course – it satisfies the creative side of being a chef.”

Having witnessed Bork’s creative process firsthand, I’m elated that all that tinkering has finally resulted in a finished product. The meticulous repetitiveness with which Bork approaches food is exhausting, even just to watch.

As he walks me out of his kitchen at Blood & Sand, I’m wondering whether he’s as happy about the dish as I am, or whether this is just another day for Chris Bork.

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Inspired Food Culture

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Written by Maddie Earnest

|

Recipes by Clara Moore, Local Harvest Cafe & Catering

photography by Jennifer Silverberg

|

Illustrations by Derek Bauman

Long relegated to the veggie tray, even when disguised cleverly as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;rose,â&#x20AC;? the radish often remains uneaten at the end of the party, lingering atop its bed of wilted lettuce next to the celery and the now-warm ranch dip. But thanks to renewed interest in heirloom varieties by both farmers and consumers, the radish is getting plenty of attention from newfound admirers and adventurous cooks. While gardeners have always turned to the radish for its rapid maturity and quick germination, the array of flavors, colors and preparations is bringing new recruits into the radishlover camp. Luckily for us, the St. Louis region boasts lots of innovative farmers growing a panoply of radish varieties.

Inspired Food Culture

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62

RED SATIN

SPANISH BLACK

Tim Hess, of Silent Oaks Farm in Opdyke, Ill., is a fan of the Red Satin radish. This hybrid is easy to grow and holds up well even in the heat. Red Satin is an apt description, as it does in fact have the appearance of a flat satin. This sturdy round radish has a lovely crimson skin and bright white flesh. It is great for slicing and, yes, even for rosette carving. It does have a bit of bite to it, but the heat isn’t overpowering. It holds up well to sautéing, and its greens, when eaten very soon after picking, are flavorful with just a tinge of bitter that can be cut with some butter and a sprinkle of vinegar. If you favor a French diet, slice the radishes extremely thin and make an open-faced sandwich with fresh butter and crunchy salt.

This is a favorite kids' snack in France.

September is a great time for the Spanish Black. This hearty radish has a much longer growing time but is worth the wait. With charcoal-gray skin and a very rough exterior, it might not be the most visibly appealing vegetable, but Molly Dupre of Red Fox Farm says it, like other radishes, is very versatile. One of Dupre’s favorite ways to eat the Nero Tondo variety of the Spanish Black radish is to slice it very thin and use it in a “rustic pie” with goat cheese. Justin Leszcz of YellowTree Farm says he enjoys them roasted. Spanish Black is known as one of the hotter radishes, but cooking brings out the sweetness of the flesh.

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SEPTEMBER 2012

DAIKON Katie Noble and her husband, Kevin Smith, grow daikon radishes at Noble Greens Farm, their farm in Cedar Hill. This elongated radish resembles a large carrot in size but has a white skin and white interior. The daikon is wonderful eaten raw, but Noble suggests stir-frying with a bit of sesame oil. As with most radishes, cooking removes some of the heat. When grown in lower temperatures, this radish tends toward the milder side. The daikon is extremely versatile and popular in many Asian countries, where it is pickled, steamed, cooked with fish and spices, dried or even prepared like sauerkraut.

FRENCH BREAKFAST Jen Dormuth and Megan Knaus of Hot Skillet Farms are somewhat new to urban farming, but they are spreading their roots and shoots around South City. One of their favorites to plant is the French Breakfast radish. This cylindrical variety is usually 2 to 3 inches long and appears to have been airbrushed by nature with a lovely bright pink under the greens and a white-tipped taper. French radishes are great for snacking, and their long shape makes dipping easy. The milder flavor and crisp crunch are also a plus.

In good soil, you can grow these radishes in 20 to 25 days.

WATERMELON The Watermelon radish is extremely beautiful.

The outside skin is usually white with a pale green color near the top, while the interior is bursting with a luscious pink hue.

(A cross section resembles a slice of seedless watermelon.) This stunning little root vegetable is also a bit sweeter with a just a bite of peppery flavor.

Justin Leszcz of YellowTree Farm grows the watermelon radish in spring and fall, as this radish prefers lower temperatures.

This heirloom, also called “Red Meat,” can be on the larger side with a diameter of 4 inches or so. Beautiful on a relish tray; in stir-fries; or tossed raw with crisp apple, fennel and chèvre, it is a must-try.

seedpods & SHOOTS Leszcz is also growing a variety of heirloom radish with the whimsical name of Rat’s Tail. Interestingly, it is grown for the seedpod, not the root. The succulent seedpod develops after the radish has bolted and is wonderful raw or in sautéed dishes. The root is quite woody and unsubstantial, but the pods will keep growing as long as you cut them back.

Claverach Farm and Vineyard has popularized radish and pea shoots at restaurants around St. Louis. If you have ever grown a radish, you will recognize the shape of the radish shoot immediately.

This microgreen possesses telltale radish heat, only in compact form. Toss these with other shoots, use in place of lettuce on sandwiches or in a salad, or lightly sauté and serve under a variety of meat and vegetable dishes.

Inspired Food Culture

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radish recipes Fresh Red Satin Radish Salsa Popular in Latin cuisines, lightly pickled radishes can always be found on your table at the local taqueria next to salsa roja and a bowl of jalapeños. Radish salsa is a lesserknown condiment but still deserves room on your table.

Serves | 4 to 6 | 2 cups

½ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup

1

Red Satin radishes*, minced or cut into matchsticks minced red onion chopped fresh cilantro fresh lime juice jalapeño, seeded and diced salt, to taste

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Let sit at room temperature for about 1 hour. Serve immediately or refrigerate for a few days. Radishes will lose more of their crisp texture the longer the salsa sits in the refrigerator. * You can use any type of radish for this recipe. The smaller types are generally more tender and work better, but mix it up with Watermelon radish or Icicle radish. Eat this salsa with chips, on your tacos, or spooned over carnitas or roasted chicken.

and the bitterness of the greens are perfectly balanced with the fresh herbs and the creamy sweetness of the cashew dressing. Thinly sliced, watermelon radish creates a beautiful plate that your guests won’t quickly forget.

Serves | 4 to 6 | Quick Pickled Watermelon Radishes

3 medium Watermelon radishes

1 cup 1/3 cup 2 Tbsp 3 Tbsp 2 Tbsp

white vinegar water sugar kosher or sea salt fresh herbs

Vegan Cashew Dressing ½ cups raw cashews, soaked for at least 1 hour 1

1 ¼ cup ¼ cup 3 Tbsp 2 cloves 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp ¼ cup Salad ½ cup

very coarsely chopped carrot tops very coarsely chopped radish greens very coarsely chopped chicory chopped fresh dill chopped fresh parsley

French Breakfast Radish Sandwich with Radish Shoots and Arugula Vinaigrette

An open-faced sandwich of butter, radishes and fresh herbs is a French-countryside breakfast tradition. This recipe is a light lunch version of that traditional sandwich.

The vinaigrette is extremely versatile. Replace the lemon juice with any kind of vinegar, or replace the arugula with any type of herb or mixture of herbs. Add a touch of honey or sugar if you want a little sweetness in your dressing. It keeps well in the refrigerator for weeks.

| Preparation – Pickled Watermelon Radishes | Using a

Serves | 4 | Arugula Vinaigrette 1 cup fresh arugula

2 Tbsp 1 clove

1 1/3 cup

white onion, chopped garlic, chopped lemon, juiced olive or grapeseed oil salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sandwiches 4 Tbsp chevre

8 slices 1 bunch ¼ cup

marble rye bread, toasted French Breakfast radishes, thinly sliced fresh radish shoots*

| Preparation – Arugula Vinaigrette | Place arugula, onion, garlic and lemon in a blender. Blend until everything is a bit broken down. With the blender on, slowly add oil through the feed chute. Add salt and pepper to taste.

| Preparation – Radish Sandwich | Spread goat cheese evenly on 4 slices of rye bread. Lay radish slices on top of goat cheese. Toss radish shoots with 4 Tbsp arugula vinaigrette and sprinkle over the radishes. Top each sandwich with another slice of bread and cut into 4 triangles. * Fresh radish shoots are available at farmers’ markets or grocers specializing in local produce. Claverach Farm and Vineyard and Hot Skillet Farms are two great producers.

Quick Pickled Watermelon Radish Salad with Radish Greens, Carrot Tops and Chicory Don’t throw away those vegetable greens! Carrot greens are herby and taste of carrots, radish greens are bold and earthy, and chicory is refreshingly bitter. This salad is both gorgeous and delicious. The tartness of the pickled radish 64

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

½ cup ½ cup 1 Tbsp 1 Tbsp

lemon, juiced apple cider vinegar sunflower or olive oil agave nectar garlic kosher or sea salt fresh dill water, for blending

mandoline, slice the radishes as thinly as possible. Place in a bowl or jar. Place all other ingredients in a saucepan and heat until salt and sugar are dissolved. Pour the liquid over the radishes and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before serving. If not serving immediately, cover and place in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

| Preparation – Vegan Cashew Dressing | Drain soaked cashews and discard water. Place all ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend until perfectly smooth. If needed, add more water to reach the desired consistency. Place dressing in refrigerator for at least 1 hour to cool and thicken. | Preparation – Salad | Mix carrot tops, radish greens, chicory, dill and parsley in a bowl and toss with 3 to 4 Tbsp of cashew dressing. Place 5 pickled Watermelon radish slices on each plate in a fan shape. Top with dressed salad and garnish with another slice of pickled radish.

Note: The pickling solution used on the radishes is fairly universal – use it to pickle almost anything (beets, green beans, carrots, cauliflower, tomatoes). For a fun variation you can wedge the radish instead of slicing, so they actually look like miniature pieces of watermelon.

Roasted Black Radishes with Spiced Sautéed Greens This Indian-inspired dish is superflavorful. Be sure your spices are fresh for the most intense flavor. If your spices have been sitting around for more than one year, get rid of them. I like to buy spices at the Soulard Spice Shop because you can get as small or as large of a quantity as you wish.

Serves | 4 to 6 | Roasted Radishes

1 lb black radishes, cubed

2 Tbsp 6 cloves

½ 2 Tbsp 1 tsp

olive or mustard oil* garlic, chopped small white onion, chopped turmeric kosher or sea salt

Sautéed Greens 1 Tbsp sunflower or olive oil

1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp ½ tsp 1 tsp

6 leaves 2 tsp

mustard seeds turmeric ground coriander cayenne salt black radish tops, chopped kale or mustard greens, chopped lime juice plain yogurt, for garnish

| Preparation – Roasted Radishes | Preheat oven to 375°F. Toss all ingredients in a large bowl until radishes are well-coated. Place radish mixture on a large sheet of foil and close into a package. Place foil package on a cooking sheet and cook for 30 minutes, turning occasionally. Once radishes are soft, open the packet and return to the oven for another 10 minutes to caramelize. | Preparation – Sautéed Greens | Add oil to a large pan or cast-iron skillet set over medium heat. Add all the spices and salt. Cook, constantly stirring, until mustard seeds begin to pop. Add all the greens and stir until wilted and nicely coated. Remove from heat and add the lime juice.

Serve on top of roasted radishes. Garnish with yogurt. * Mustard oil can be purchased at many international and Asian grocers. It has a spicy aroma and a nutty flavor that makes it great in salad dressings.

Note: Cooking the spices before you add the food is an old Indian cooking technique – it allows the spices to come to their full flavor potential. The spice mix in this recipe is a great base for many recipes. Add potatoes to the radishes in this recipe for a great side dish or breakfast item.

Watermelon Radish Kimchee The countertop fermentation process in this recipe is perfectly safe; many even argue that it makes the kimchee more nutritious. This kimchee will be spicy, sour and crisp – pretty much a perfect condiment. Don’t stop with the watermelon radish. Try this recipe with other types of radishes, carrots, turnips or your favorite root vegetable.

Serves | 8 to 10 |

1 lb

3 Tbsp

3 lbs

1 thumb 6 cloves ½ cup ¼ cup

6

napa or savoy cabbage, cut into large uniform chunks kosher or rock sea salt Watermelon radish, cut into medium uniform cubes ginger, peeled and minced garlic, minced sambal oelek or other hot-pepper paste fish sauce scallions, cut into 2-inch sections

| Preparation | In a large mixing bowl, toss the cabbage in salt until well-coated. Squeeze the cabbage to begin softening it. Add radish and toss. Let sit on the counter for 30 minutes, stirring intermittently. Meanwhile, mix remaining ingredients except scallions in a small bowl.

Clean, sanitize and prepare four 1-quart glass jars or one 1-gallon glass jar. Add the scallions and the mixed paste to the cabbage-radish mixture. (Do not discard the liquid that has collected at the bottom of the bowl.) Toss until thoroughly combined. Transfer mixture to jar(s). Press down the contents to release air bubbles and force the liquid up over the veggies. Cover with two layers of plastic wrap or an airtight lid and leave in a cool, dark place for 3 to 6 days at 55°F to 75°F. Press the veggies down into the liquid twice a day until fermentation is complete. Stir the contents and place the jars, covered, in the refrigerator for 1 week before serving. It will keep in the refrigerator for about 6 months.

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school gardens are a centuries-old tradition seeing a Written by Pat Eby

|

photography by Michael Jacob

resurgence in popularity.

spend plenty of time in the school garden, helping plant seeds, tend to plants and pick the food when it’s ripe.

They are popping up at educational facilities all over the country in response to local food movements, school nutrition initiatives and public health concerns.

On-site gardens are most commonly implemented in order to improve the diets and nutritional education of students, but a preschool in Benton Park West has transformed its backyard plot into a tool for change throughout the community.

“They take pride in growing things,” says teacher Jenny Mack. And that pride translates into a healthier approach to food. “I’ve noticed they’re more likely to try a vegetable they’ve raised themselves,” says Mack.

The garden at SouthSide Early Childhood Center consists of raised beds planted with fruits, vegetables and flowers; a sunflower house; and a wide-branching apple tree. The green space is a precious commodity to the school’s 65 students. “Not all the kids at our school have yards to play in, are exposed to nature and the outdoors,” says Anne Kessen Lowell, director of the center. But the children

Every day at school, the children eat healthy, balanced breakfasts and lunches thanks to SouthSide’s chef, Fawn Montjoy. She cooks from-scratch breakfasts and lunches heavy on fresh vegetables and fruits, lean meats, and whole grains. The day we visited Montjoy’s school kitchen, fresh lettuce, carrots, potatoes, strawberries and blueberries filled the prep table. Trays of goldenbrown baked chicken breasts came hot from the ovens.

Montjoy serves whole-grain breads and sweets low in sugar and high in nutrients, often with fruits. She cooks the same way at SouthSide as she did in her previous

position at a private school in St. Louis County. “Every child, no matter their circumstances, deserves to eat well,” she says. “My mother always said cooking good food is a way of showing respect.”

Teachers encourage the children to taste test. They learn to describe flavor, texture, colors and shapes.

After just one gardening season, teachers found the children could clearly distinguish fresh foods from the garden from processed foods. Pretesting showed the average number of correct responses increased by more than 70 percent.

But at SouthSide, mealtime is about much more than a healthy diet; the social aspect of eating is something the school deems important to teach its children as well.

Meals are served family-style, in the classroom, with teachers and students sitting down at the table together, an experience the children might not have at home.

“Our families face challenges,” says Lowell. “There might not always be enough food for everyone, so dinner is more of a snack on the go. Some parents work split shifts, so not everyone is home at the same time. Lunch at the school helps teach healthier eating habits and builds social skills.”

Montjoy notes how children change as they learn to eat family-style. “I’ve seen some children get anxious when the bowls start to empty, but over time they learn there’s enough food for everyone.”

“They learn to share by passing the bowls,” says Lowell.

“The ladles are sized to teach what a portion looks like.

They put some of every food on their plate, and we encourage them to try new things. They pour their own milk, from small pitchers. It doesn’t always work, but they learn.”

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SEPTEMBER 2012

Parents learn from the garden as well. In spring, Gateway Greening came to a parent meeting with information about the school garden and about growing food at home. Sarah Caldera Wimmer, who works with families at SouthSide, found more parents volunteered at the school garden after the meeting. “Gateway Greening brought plants for families to take home – basil, tomatoes and peppers; plants that can grow in containers,” she says.

“Even if a family doesn’t have a yard, they can grow food.”

Growing food can help families stretch tight budgets.

More than 80 percent of parents at SouthSide work full time but earn less than $21,000 a year. Nine out of 10 children at the center live in poverty. Over half the families receive food stamps. The majority of families live in the South St. Louis neighborhoods of Benton Park West, Gravois Park, McKinley Heights and Fox Park. Access to full-service grocery stores means a car or taxi trip of several miles, which isn’t always possible for families.

"Parents think the garden is cool," says Lowell, “but the biggest draw to the garden for parents is the food.” The garden shows even a small space can produce enough vegetables to feed a family. “We don’t have a childhood obesity epidemic here. We sometimes have the opposite problem of children not having enough to eat.”

Some parents started gardens at home after seeing the garden at SouthSide. Parent Elizabeth Amezzcua now grows tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and cilantro in her small backyard. “I wish I had more space,” she says. “My oldest son, who is now 8, was at Southside the first year the garden went in. He waters the plants now at our house,

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and he is so excited because the cucumbers are starting to come on. My two younger children are at SouthSide now. I know they like the garden, and they like the food too.”

Now Amezzcua wants her own organic garden. “Last year I started reading about organic gardens. All winter we made compost from leftover vegetable scraps ‒ and leaves in the fall. My tomatoes and peppers this year, with the compost, are much bigger.”

As teachers and administrators saw the effects of the garden reverberate into the surrounding community, they recognized an opportunity to expand further on the families’ newfound or revived interest in healthy cooking.

They reached out to parents and compiled a community cookbook that combines treasured family recipes with the fruits and vegetables the children have learned to grow and love eating, like teacher Jenny Mack’s eggplant casserole,

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parent Elizabeth Amezzcua’s family recipe for tacos or curried pea soup from Susie and Gordon Philpott, longtime supporters of the center. A 1950s-era recipe for apple crisp, supplied by Gordon Philpott’s mother, shows the deep and lasting community connections the center engenders.

Next year, when SouthSide will relocate to its new home at Jefferson Avenue and Russell Boulevard, one of the first orders of business will be to begin work on a new garden. Or perhaps more aptly described: an outdoor classroom. “We’re planning an outdoor curriculum that goes beyond gardening,” says Lowell. “And there will be a ‘kids' kitchen’ for cooking that teaches nutrition hands-on.”

In its next iteration, SouthSide’s garden will be given room to grow and spread even further its positive influence on the lives of students, their families and the community that nurtures it.

buy the book

Our Food, Our Stories is available for purchase by visiting or calling the center. “The cookbook instills a sense of pride in our families,” says Sarah Wimmer. “When they see their name in print in a book, that’s something. In keeping with our crosscultural emphasis, the recipes are written both in Spanish and in English.” For a sneak peek of some of the recipes from the book, head to feastSTL.com.

SouthSide Early Childhood Center 2930 Iowa Ave., Benton Park West 314.865.0322, southside-ecc.org

Devoured the magazine and still

hungry for

MORE? Stay on top of St. Louis’ food scene with our free weekly enewsletter. Subscribe now at feastSTL.com, and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Tuesday!

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Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

71

exploring local waters

wok-seared shrimp with red curry, coconut milk and egg noodles

recipe on p. 78

Written by Brandon Chuang and James Brigham photography by Jennifer Silverberg

Fifty-six degrees. That’s the

average year-round water temperature of a natural spring in Gravois Mills, Mo. It also happens to be within the temperature sweet spot for raising trout, which explains why Troutdale Farm has been operating in some form, farming and selling fish here, in the middle of the Ozarks, for 80 years. And it's not alone. As overfishing has been elevated to the forefront of global food concerns, fish farming, also known as aquaculture, has grown along with it as a sustainable way to keep fish on our dinner tables. More and more, St. Louisans are eating seafood that was caught far closer to Pacific, Mo., than the Pacific Ocean. In doing so, they’re adding a whole new dimension to the idea of farm to table.

Troutdale Ranch opened in 1932 with a simple business model: raise and sell fish. Trout need cold, running water to thrive, meaning that you need to have either a lot of water that you can pump and chill electronically or a spring. Missouri in particular is conducive to trout farming because there are multiple tracts of land throughout the area that have natural springs. Most are owned by the state; Troutdale Ranch purchased one of the few private parcels.

The model worked for decades, but business waned at the close of the century, and in 2002 Merritt and Dennis Van Landuyt, a retired ballerina and organic chemist, respectively, purchased the business and began the long road back to prominence, aggressively marketing their product and slowly building a network of dedicated customers. Today the rebranded and renamed Troutdale Farm caters to a variety of specialty markets and top-tier restaurants throughout Missouri, including Niche, Franco and Big Sky Cafe.

“I have customers who won’t order anything but the trout,” says Troutdale Farm customer and I Fratellini owner Zoe Pidgeon. “It’s one of our biggest-selling items because the fish is always brilliant. They’re one of my favorite purveyors.”

“The trout have a rich flavor,” explains Lou Rook III, executive chef of Annie Gunn’s. “And when a harvest is ready, they can have it in your restaurant in less than 12 hours. It’s what trout should be.”

Rockbridge Rainbow Trout and Game Ranch, in Rockbridge, Mo., features trout that are raised in on-site hatcheries and then released for pursuit by fishermen. More than 60 percent of the ranch’s business stems from a St. Louis-based clientele that makes the approximately four-hour trek down I-44 in order to personally catch fish from the ground’s streams.

“Our trout are hand-fed with the best feed in the cleanest and coldest water,” says Alicia AmyxWinrod, manager of Rockbridge. “It hasn’t come from a farm where 200,000 fish are raised in one small pond with auto-feeders.”

tilapia flatbread recipe on p. 78

Aside from individuals being able to catch dinner themselves, the ranch also provides rainbow trout for area businesses such as Big Cedar Lodge in Branson and the specialty-market chain MaMa Jean’s Natural Market. It also has its own restaurant where guests can dine on rainbow trout prepared more than 20 different ways. “Once you eat it,” says Amyx-Winrod, “you’ll see there’s no comparison.”

Kelly Norman, a manager for MaMa Jean’s Natural Market, agrees.

Having eaten at the ranch’s restaurant and seen firsthand the trout being line-caught in the spring-fed streams, she knew she had to bring the fish to her store shelves.

“They deliver freshly caught fish in less than 24 hours,” lauds Norman.

“If I run out, I hear about it.”

If you let Dr. David Brune explain it,

he’s attempting to raise multiple organisms in an ecosystem designed so that he can bring saltwater breeds of shrimp normally found in the Pacific to the Missouri marketplace. Brune holds a Ph.D. in sanitary engineering and works for the Bradford Research Farm at the University of Missouri ‒ Columbia. What he’s doing there, to put it in nondoctorate speak, is figuring out an inexpensive way to consistently raise saltwater shrimp that are normally found in the Pacific Ocean.

“We consume about 1.4 billion pounds of shrimp a year,” explains Brune.

“Of that, approximately 1.2 billion pounds is farm-raised. The U.S. has been the leader in [farm-raised] technology, but as soon as it’s created, other countries take it and run with it.”

In other words, when you buy frozen shrimp at the store, you’re buying it from countries like China, Ecuador, Mexico, Thailand and Vietnam.

Brune’s farm, which consists of multiple raceways of circulating water and greenhouses-cum-office-space for chemical analysis, is trying to attract everyday consumers and American aquaculturalists.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

75

pistachio-crusted trout with lemon butter recipe on p. 78

“The big issue is cost,” Brune admits about the American shrimp. “In a head-to-head cost competition against frozen shrimp on a shelf from Thailand, I can’t compete. I’ve got to produce a shrimp that’s sold at a live market. A fresh market.”

What he needs are people who are willing to pay a premium price for better taste and higher quality. But how much more will people pay?

Brune is unsure. He’s proved that he can yield shrimp; the only thing left is to perfect the system so that it’s scalable and reproducible for other farmers. And he’s almost there. He plans on bringing in interested farmers for workshops as early as this fall.

Dr. Jason Knouft also holds a Ph.D. – his in biology – and is the associate director of the Center for Environmental Sciences in the Center for Sustainability at Saint Louis University, where part of his research invovles understanding the factors that regulate distribution of freshwater fish. His largest concern with fish farms is the possibility of non-native species escaping into and disrupting native populations.

Dams break. Floods happen. The question is less of whether a fish escapes than when.

“Look at the explosion of Asian carp,” cites Knouft. The fish were originally imported by fish farmers to clean their commercial ponds, but have since escaped into the Mississippi River and Great Lakes.

They were declared an invasive species by the U.S. Department of the Interior in 2007.

“It’s a complicated issue,” Knouft says. “People are making a sincere effort to provide [a solution].”

While fish farms can raise concerns, that hasn’t stopped Nathalie Pettus.

The owner of Overlook Farm in Clarksville raises tilapia and is looking to expand even further into prawns and barramundi, as well as deliver her fish to St. Louis chefs while they’re still swimming in tanks. It’s all part of her plan to create a fully encompassing sustainable property.

When Pettus began making her own ethanol using corn from Missouri farmers as a fuel solution for her own farm, she found that one of the byproducts of ethanol – distiller’s grain – proved to be an excellent source of feed for fish. So in preparation for all that distiller’s grain, Pettus decided to begin raising tilapia.

“Tilapia are very easy to raise,” she explains about her choice in fish.

“They’re more of a vegetarian fish, so they don’t require a meat source.”

Researching all that she could on aquaculture, Pettus built out concrete tanks that are indoors and above floodplains to ensure no chance of escape or ill effects to the local ecosystem. With everything in place, Overlook Farm received its first purchase from a hatchery, 4,000 baby tilapia, on St. Patrick’s Day this year.

“People worry about farmed fish, but it really just depends on how the process is handled,” says Pettus. “People need to explore their food sources; ask where it comes from. We’re doing it with grass-fed beef and heritage pigs. Now we need to do this with fish. Find out who’s doing it well and support them.”

Many of the concerns over fish farms aren’t as prevalent in Missouri because the farmers here take great pride in ensuring as open, comfortable and wildlike an environment as possible. And while the concerns for population pollution and waste are still evident, even Knouft admits the current benefits outweigh the negatives.

“Fish are a healthy food source whether they’re farmed or not,” says Knouft. “At the end of the day, it’s better [for you] to eat fish than a pile of bacon.”

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

77

fish recipes Wok-Seared Shrimp with Red Curry, Coconut Milk and Egg Noodles pictured on p. 72X

By Ny Vongsaly, Bobo Noodle House

red curry paste clam juice coconut milk oyster sauce vegetable oil chopped garlic 21- to 30-count shrimp, peeled and deveined small red onion, peeled and julienned carrot, peeled and julienned red bell peppers, julienned egg noodles, cooked

| Preparation | In a small bowl, whisk together curry paste, clam juice, coconut milk and oyster sauce. Set aside. Add oil and garlic to a wok set over high heat. Add the shrimp and cook until they turn pink. Add vegetables and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the curry sauce to the pan and cook for 1 minute. Add egg noodles and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.

Remove from heat and serve immediately.

Tilapia Flatbread

pictured on p. 74

By F. Michael Polcyn, Clarksville Station at Overlook Farm

Serves | 2 | ½ lb

5 to 7 oz ½ tsp ½ tsp

3 2 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 3 cloves ½ tsp

½ cup ¼ cup

10 oz ½ Tbsp

baby spinach chopped garlic salt and freshly ground black pepper

Lemon Butter 1 Tbsp butter

Serves | 4 | 3 Tbsp 1 cup ½ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup 1 Tbsp 1½ lbs

1

1

2 1 lb

Sautéed Spinach ½ Tbsp olive oil

prepared pizza dough extra-virgin olive oil tilapia fillet seasoned salt chipotle powder medium tomatoes, seeded and diced minced cilantro minced red onion garlic, roasted and mashed ground cumin kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper shredded smoked provolone shredded mozzarella

| Preparation | Preheat oven to 450°F. Stretch the dough into a rectangle. Brush both sides of dough with olive oil.

Place the dough on a hot grill, and grill on both sides until grill marks appear. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Brush tilapia with oil and dust with seasoned salt and chipotle powder. Grill until slightly underdone and remove from heat. Allow to cool and then shred.

½

lemon, juiced

| Preparation – Trout | Preheat oven to 500°F. Cut the trout in half, lengthwise. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Dust the flesh side of the trout with crushed pistachios.

Heat oil in an ovenproof skillet until almost smoking. Add the trout, crusted side down, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.

Turn the trout over and place the skillet it in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the fish from the pan and let rest. | Preparation – Sautéed Spinach | Add oil to a separate pan set over medium heat. Add spinach and garlic. Sauté until spinach is cooked through, approximately 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

| Preparation – Lemon Butter | In the same pan used to cook the trout, cook butter and lemon juice over mediumlow heat for 1 to 2 minutes. | To Serve | Plate the sautéed spinach and arrange the trout on top. Drizzle with lemon butter.

Pan-Seared Trout Salad with Smoked Pear-Cider Vinaigrette

By Colleen Clawson, Big Sky Café

Drizzle a little olive oil on grilled pizza crust. Spoon 1/3 of the tomato mixture onto the crust. Top with shredded tilapia and cheeses. Bake until cheese is slightly browned and crust is hot, about 7 to 9 minutes. Top with remaining tomato mixture and serve.

Pistachio-Crusted Trout with Lemon Butter pictured on p. 76

By Ny Vongsaly, I Fratellini

Serves | 4 | Trout

2

½ cup 1½ Tbsp

78

whole boneless trout, skin on salt and freshly ground black pepper pistachios, crushed olive oil

feastSTL.com

SEPTEMBER 2012

Sage-Seared Trout with Toasted Pecan Missouri Rice and Heirloom Beans

By Rob Uyemura, Yia Yia’s Eurocafe

Serves | 4 | Trout 1 Tbsp

4 2 tsp 2 tsp 2 tsp

oil whole boneless trout, butterflied salt freshly ground black pepper fresh sage, finely chopped

Toasted Pecan Missouri Rice ¼ cup cooked Missouri long-grain white rice

¼ cup ¼ cup 1 Tbsp 2 oz

cooked Missouri long-grain brown rice cooked quinoa unsalted butter toasted pecans salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heirloom Beans 1 Tbsp unsalted butter ¼ lb yellow wax beans ¼ lb green wax beans salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Trout | Add oil to a skillet set over medium-high heat. Dust each trout with salt, pepper and fresh sage. Sear the trout for 2 to 3 minutes on each side. | Preparation – Rice | In a mixing bowl, add the white rice,

Serves | 4 |

brown rice and quinoa. Fold in the butter until melted. Add pecans and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Smoked Pear-Cider Vinaigrette

wood chips, preferably cherry wood

| Preparation – Heirloom Beans | Add butter to a pan set

2 ½ cup ¾ cup ¾ cup

2 cups

pears, peeled and cored roughly chopped shallots honey cider vinegar kosher salt olive oil

Trout Salad

olive oil

4

1 lb 1 cup 1 pint

rainbow trout fillets, boned and scaled salt and freshly ground black pepper spinach crumbled goat cheese cherry tomatoes

| Preparation – Smoked Pear-Cider Vinaigrette | Soak In a mixing bowl, combine tomatoes, cilantro, onion, garlic and cumin. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

sprinkle with goat cheese and tomatoes. Place the trout on top and finish with a drizzle of the vinaigrette.

the desired amount of wood chips in water for at least 30 minutes. Place the soaked wood chips in a large metal bowl, and put the pears in a smaller metal bowl. Nest the bowl of pears on top of the wood chips and cover the large bowl with aluminum foil, enclosing the smaller bowl. Place on the stove over high heat until you see smoke. The longer you heat the chips, the smokier the pears will be. Add the pears, shallots, honey, cider vinegar and salt to a blender.

Blend on low and gradually increase the speed to high.

Slowly add the olive oil until the mixture is emulsified.

| Preparation – Trout Salad | Coat a large skillet with olive oil and place over high heat. Season the trout fillets with salt and pepper to taste. Once the pan is very hot, add a fillet, skin side down. Let it cook for 1 to 2 minutes before giving the skillet a wiggle. If it slides around, it’s time to flip. If it sticks, give it a little more time. Sear the flesh using the same “wiggle test,” and repeat with the remaining fillets. In a mixing bowl, dress the spinach with the desired amount of vinaigrette. Place on a plate and

over medium heat. Add the beans and add a generous pinch of salt and pepper as well as a splash of water.

Sauté to desired level of doneness, around 4 to 6 minutes.

| To Serve | Place the trout on top of the rice blend. Serve the vegetables on the side.

Mississippi Chowder

By F. Michael Polcyn, Clarksville Station at Overlook Farm

Serves | 10 | Crawfish Stock 1½ lbs crawfish, fresh or frozen

½ lb 1½ lbs

½ lb 1 gallon

1 1 Tbsp Chowder 1½ Tbsp

½ lb

½ lb

1 lb

3

1½

2 lbs 2 Tbsp 1 cup 1½ lbs ¼ cup 12 oz

carrots, minced onions, minced celery, minced water bay leaf black peppercorns

soybean oil carrots, diced celery, diced yellow onion, diced large tomatoes, seeded and diced green bell peppers, diced yellow potatoes, skin on, diced and parboiled Frank’s RedHot pepper sauce chile sauce tilapia fillets, roasted and chopped cornstarch beer, preferably Schlafly Pale Ale salt and freshly ground black pepper

| Preparation – Crawfish Stock | Combine all ingredients in a large stockpot and simmer for at least 2 hours, strain and reserve the stock.

| Preparation – Chowder | Place oil in a large pot and sweat carrots, celery and onion over medium heat until translucent. Add tomatoes and peppers and cook until soft. Add crawfish stock, parboiled potatoes, pepper sauce and chile sauce. Bring to a simmer and add fish, folding in gently. In a small bowl, make a slurry of cornstarch and beer. Add to soup. Heat until thickened, stirring gently.

Remove from heat and add salt and pepper to taste. Ladle into bowls and serve.

Rainbow Trout and Crab Cakes with Spicy Aïoli Courtesy of Rockbridge Rainbow Trout and game Ranch

Yield | 9 cakes | Spicy Aïoli ½ cup fresh horseradish

½ cup 1 pinch 1 cup 1 Tbsp ¼ cup 1 tsp

sour cream freshly ground black pepper mayonnaise lemon juice finely chopped green onion cayenne

Rainbow Trout and Crab Cakes 1 cup bread crumbs

½ lb ½ lb 2 Tbsp 1 tsp 2 Tbsp ¼ cup ¼ cup

2

rainbow trout fillets, skin on crab meat mayonnaise Dijon mustard lemon juice minced green peppers minced green onion eggs salt and freshly ground black pepper extra-virgin olive oil

| Preparation – Spicy Aïoli | Blend horseradish, sour cream and black pepper until smooth and creamy. Stir in mayonnaise, lemon juice, green onion and cayenne. Set aside. | Preparation – Rainbow Trout and Crab Cakes | Preheat oven to 350°F. Place bread crumbs in deep-dish plate and set aside. Place trout fillets meat side up on a pan and bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Watch trout closely so as to not overcook.

Trout is done when the meat is white and flaky. Let trout cool and then flip fillets to meat side down. With a butter knife, gently lift off skin and discard. Using the same butter knife, gently scrape silver layer off meat and discard. Break up trout and crab meat and mix with mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, peppers, onions and eggs. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Preheat a flat-top grill or electric skillet to 350°F. Divide mixture into 3-oz patties. Roll each patty in bread crumbs. Coat grill with oil. Place patties on grill and cook on each side until golden-brown. Arrange cakes on a platter and drizzle with aïoli. Serve remaining aïoli on the side.

Herb-Crusted Trout Courtesy of Rockbridge Rainbow Trout and game Ranch

Serves | 4 to 6 |

3

1 dash

1 dash

¼ tsp

1½ cups

4

1 4 to 6 leaves

eggs salt freshly ground black pepper Italian seasoning Italian bread crumbs 6-oz rainbow trout fillets, skin on extra-virgin olive oil small lemon, thinly sliced purple kale

| Preparation | Preheat a flat-top grill or electric skillet to 350°F. Mix eggs, salt, pepper and Italian seasoning in a shallow dish. In a separate dish, make a bed of bread crumbs for breading the fillets. Dip each trout fillet into the egg wash.

Place fillets meat side down in the bread crumbs. Coat preheated grill with oil.

Place fillets meat side down on grill and cook approximately 8 to 10 minutes.

Carefully flip trout and cook skin side down for 5 minutes. Cooking time may vary based on thickness of fillet. Trout is done when meat is white and flaky.

Plate each fillet and garnish with lemon slices and purple kale.

Inspired Food Culture

SEPTEMBER 2012

79

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The dish

Panna Cotta with Peach, Oats and Tarragon When I’m considering dessert, chocolate trumps most.

But Taste has effortlessly lured me toward the road less traveled. On a recent date night away from “toddler land,” we anticipated an uninterrupted adventure through Taste’s savory seasonal small plates paired with its celebrated cocktails. Dessert wasn’t my first consideration.

The Sweets category was prominently displayed on the menu, and Panna Cotta with Peach, Oats and Tarragon had me immediately intrigued. I was presented with a

traditional-looking custard dish garnished with delicate fried tarragon leaves. The herb’s subtle, licorice-like aromatics greeted me first. Passion fruit and peaches are the custard’s prominent flavors, and the dish’s intermingled textures – creaminess, crispy leaves and toasty oats – are thoughtfully balanced.

The dish is delightfully light, splendid on a hot day, and its flavors are so engaging that I had no regrets polishing it off. Though late-harvest dessert wine comes to mind, I suggest requesting a cocktail pairing. Go with the Arnaud,

Contributor’s Pick

Jennifer Johnson

made of Plymouth gin, Crème de Cassis and Dolan’s dry vermouth. The extracted nature of black currant seems meant for the dessert’s exotic richness, and the drink accents the dish’s intense honey notes without competing with its flavors.

Taste by Niche, 4584 Laclede Ave., Central West End 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com Check out Jennifer’s monthly wine selections in What We’re Drinking (p. 15). photography by Jonathan Gayman

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