call of the wild
f ly f i s h i n g w i t h j o h n p e r k i n s
the year in beer
ON THE HUNT
LURE OF THE LINE
Inspired Local Food Culture | M i dw e st
ed uck hunt on p. 88
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Savor authentic Italian fare just like “nonna” used to make. From classic favorites like wood-fired Margherita pizza and housemade pasta, to seasonal desserts like slow-churned gelato, Cibare is a little taste of Italy right in St. Louis.
888.578.7289 | rivercity.com Must be age 21 or older to gamble. Gambling problem? Call 1-888-BETSOFF. ©2016 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 2
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Â©2016 Golden Road Brewing, Wolf Pup, India Pale Ale, Los Angeles, CA | Enjoy Responsibly.
Refreshingly hoppy. With a wildly citrus character.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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YOUR GAME DAY DESTINATION Grab a bite & a brew and catch all the NFL action!
FOOTBALL DRINK SPECIALS
SUNDAY & MONDAY NFL GAMES • 7PM–11PM Celebrate after each and every touchdown with a $1 Domestic Draft and $3 Fireball Shots!
#1 Piasa Street, Alton, IL 62002 F For more information, call 1-800-711-GAME. Inspired Local Food Culture
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Must be 21. If you or someone you know has a gambling problem, crisis counseling and referral services can be accessed by calling 1-800-GAMBLER (1-800-426-2537).
BONFIRE. Join us for a one-of-a-kind preview party at Anew Rooftop & Test Kitchen. Sponsored by Feast, Baileyâ€™s Chocolate Bar and Major Brands Wednesday, October 26
Visit feastmagazine.com/events for more information
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the year in beer
Your guide to some of the biggest brewery news and best new brews of the past 12 months.
from the staff
from the PUBLIsher
The Great Outdoors issue
| 12 |
What’s online this month
| 14 |
looking sharp At Halcyon Forge in Sedalia, Missouri, Joseph Schrum handmakes chef knives that are as much a piece of art as they are an everyday kitchen essential.
lure of the line Chef John Perkins of Juniper in St. Louis returns to the river where he first learned to fly-fish and shares six recipes for cooking over a campfire.
A look at the local fish episode
| 18 |
Poutine on the ritz
| 20 |
where we’re dInIng
Druff’s, The Rockhill Grille, Yolklore
| 22 |
| 24 |
Missouri duck hunter Steve Holmes shares how he found his calling.
| 30 |
| 32 |
where we’re drInkIng
Sasha’s Apéritif, Confetti Craft Co., Coma Coffee Roasters
| 34 |
Spice your own rum.
| 44 |
get thIs gadget
Cast-iron Dutch oven and tripod
| 46 |
one on one
Fardona Davis of Sweet Buds Kitchen
| 48 |
Born With Seoul gochujang and Made Fare Co. granola crackle
| 54 |
S’mores with granola “graham” crackers and cardamom pears
| 56 |
| 58 |
Roasted venison loin with blackberry sauce.
| 60 |
Apple skillet cake COVER PHOTO OF A DUCK HUNT WITH STEVE HOLMES (P. 88) BY JUDD DEMALINE TABLE OF CONTENTS PHOTO OF JOHN PERKINS PREPPING FISH (P. 80) BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
| Issue 10 | October 2016
Vice President of niche Publishing, PHOTOGRAPHY BY LP CREATIVE STUDIO
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Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Richard Haegele, Hilary Hedges, Jason Jenkins Valeria Turturro Klamm, Lauren Miers, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, John Perkins, Justin Phelps, Ana Pierce, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell, Shannon Weber
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Zach Bauman, Sherrie Castellano, Judd Demaline, Jonathan Gayman, Aaron Ottis, Sandra Park, Anna Petrow, Ana Pierce, Jonathan Pollack, Elaine Rhode, Jennifer Silverberg, Christopher Smith, Mabel Suen, Cheryl Waller
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios
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DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at email@example.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at firstname.lastname@example.org. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2016 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
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Catherine Neville, seen here making crunchy tilapia tacos, will host Go Fish on Fri., Oct. 21 in St. Louis. Inspired by the Local Fish episode of Feast TV, the event is the last in this year’s Taste & See series.
hen I was in high school, my best friend, Heather, and I would tent camp for two weeks each summer down by the Jacks Fork River near Eminence, Missouri. We spent days in the sun, floating the clear, cold, spring-fed river; jumping off the bluff at our campground; watching fish and catching tadpoles; and cooking with her parents over a campfire every night. In fact, some of my most vivid memories of my teen years were made during those camping trips, particularly Heather’s mom’s cooking. She would bake divine bread and pineapple upside down cakes in her heavy black Dutch oven. Every camper knows that food always tastes best when you’re eating in front of the fire, and it was magical to see her pull golden brown loaves of bread and flip glistening cakes out of that cast-iron pot. It was during those long summer days and crisp Ozark nights that I fell in love with the beauty of rural Missouri. Inspired by that love of nature, this issue of Feast is dedicated to the joys of fall in the Midwest. Hunting and fishing are a big part of our local culture. St. Louis chef John Perkins grew up fishing in southern Missouri, and although he rarely enjoys the sport today, that experience never left him. Turn to p. 80 for a short essay reflecting John’s fishing memories along with a handful of excellent campfire recipes that I can’t wait to try myself, particularly the biscuits with milk gravy, a perfect way to start a day in the outdoors. Someone who didn’t grow up spending time outdoors and has come to the experience later in life is Steve Holmes, a member of Wingshoot Farms, a duck club in St. Charles County. He picked up a rifle for the first time in his 30s and
hasn’t put it down since. Until I talked with him to develop Straight Shooter, I didn’t realize that the Mississippi River constitutes a bird flyway, making our region one of the best in the country for duck hunting. “My favorite part of duck hunting,” Steve says, “is the camaraderie. It’s about spending time with your children or the people you’re hunting with. It’s absolutely a social activity. And it turns out, the people whom I enjoy most seem to enjoy duck hunting the most.” Turn to p. 88 to meet Steve and see gorgeous photos of Wingshoot Farms by photographer Judd Demaline. Every nature lover needs a good knife and good beer, so we round out our tribute to the great outdoors with features on both. In Sedalia, Missouri, Joseph Schrum is making hand-forged knives out of high-carbon steel in a workshop behind his house. Barely a year after launching Halcyon Forge, Schrum is shipping custom knives all over the globe. I had the pleasure of meeting him during a Feast TV shoot earlier this year and watching him work – heating and hammering and shaping the blades for hours. Turn to p. 75 to meet this dedicated artisan. And turn to p. 64 for our The Year in Beer roundup, covering what’s new and notable in the regional craft beer scene. Crack open a cold one, find a place to relax and enjoy the October issue of Feast. Until next time,
10.16 judd demaline St. Louis, Photographer â€œI wasnâ€™t sure what I was getting myself into when I accepted the assignment, but itâ€™s Feast, so I was positive it was going to be both creative and fun. What I never expected was the camaraderie, the connection with nature and the honesty involved. These two guys laughed about their childrenâ€™s antics, traded quips over cigars and breathed in the nature that surrounded them. They basked in the morning sunlight while preparing themselves for the long wait ahead. I had never been on a hunt before that day, but if every hunt brings you that close to nature, I would gladly go again.â€? (Straight Shooter, p. 88)
zach bauman Kansas City, Photographer â€œOne of my favorite things to photograph is someone in their element doing what they love to do. Going into the Halcyon Forge photo shoot, I was already excited about what I might get to capture, and once I arrived and met Joseph, I certainly wasnâ€™t disappointed. There was fire, a ton of tools, machinery and rock â€˜nâ€™ roll blasting in the workshop â€“ a perfect way to spend a Sunday.â€? (Looking Sharp, p. 75)
justin phelps St. Louis, Writer â€œIâ€™m a lucky guy in that I get the chance to try a lot of different beers from a lot of different breweries. One of the main reasons that Iâ€™m a fan of craft beer is because ingredients and beer styles are being pushed to the limits with each new release. The beers I was able to try for this story alone represent beer styles that range from IPAs to cranberry ales to witbiers. Although they may not be similar, theyâ€™re all made with the same purpose in mind: to excite the consumer. These beers not only accomplished that due to their flavors but also because they come from local breweries, a lot of which are new in the past few years. Drinking local has never been more fun.â€? (The Year in Beer, p. 64)
â€œOne Sunday, before Druffâ€™s was officially open to the public, I got the opportunity to sample the drool-worthy gourmet grilled cheeses, snap some photos and write about one of my favorite restaurants in downtown Springfield, Missouri. Druffâ€™s owners, Vance and Andrew, are two of the most genuine, likeable guys around town, so this assignment from Feast felt more like hanging out with good friends who just happen to make delectable comfort food. The only downside is now I get a serious craving for an Uncle Tatey (my favorite Druffâ€™s sandwich) every time I pick up my camera! â€œ (Druffâ€™s, p. 20)
Springfield, Missouri, Writer and Photographer
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Inspired Local Food Culture
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ChEfS Cook rEal ChallEngE Sat., Oct. 8, 9am to 12:30pm; Midtown Farmers Market; facebook.com/chefscookreal
The chef lineup for the grand finale has just been announced: Matt Galati of The Dam, Ryan McDonald of Byrd & Barrel, Wayne Judge of Bon Vivant Catering, Jesse Mendica of Olive + Oak and Antoine Moussali of 1818 Chophouse. Get a voting noodle, sample the dishes and choose the winner.
SanCtuaria WintEr MEnu PrEMiErE Tue., Oct. 11, 6pm; Sanctuaria; $30; 314.535.9700; sanctuariastl.com/premiere
Enjoy 10 small bites from Sanctuaria’s new winter menu paired with 10 tastings from its winter cocktail list. The menu includes shrimp and chorizo corn chowder, paella, sherry mussels with tasso and mushrooms, torrijas con miel y crema and chocolate churros for dessert.
6:00pm | OCTOBER 11
EarthDanCE farMS farMErS forMal Fri., Oct. 14, 6pm; Union Station, 1820 Market St.; $125 to $275; earthdancefarms.org/farmers-formal
This farm-inspired celebration features a locavore feast, a bumper crop of live and silent auction items, and toe-tappin’ live music. Feast, bid and dance to benefit St. Louis’ own nationally recognized Organic Farm School.
The EXCLUSIVE DEBUT of our NEW Winter Menu & Winter Cocktail List! 20 Tastings, only $30. SECURE YOUR TICKETS: SanctuariaSTL.com/Premiere (314) 535-9700 | 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, MO
www.SanctuariaSTL.com | 10
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South EaSt Craft BEEr fESt Sat., Oct. 15, 12 to 5pm; 1306 Hathman Place, Columbia, Missouri; $45 to $85; secbeerfest.com/tickets
The South East Craft Beer Fest is a festival for the true beer enthusiast. With more than 75 breweries from all over the world in attendance, everyone is sure to find something new to enjoy – food, music and lots of beer.
MaRch of diMeS SignatuRe chefS auction Mon., Oct. 17, 6pm; Sheraton Crown Center; $200; signaturechefs.marchofdimes.org
At the annual gathering of the area’s finest culinary talent in support of the March of Dimes, enjoy a 90-minute tasting experience of the chefs’ creations before the live auction with the chance to bid on unique packages that provide funds to help babies.
Tasting Dinr 1,n20e16r 6:00pm | Novembe With brewmaster
Feast tV taSte & See: go fiSh Fri., Oct. 21, 7pm; Public Media Commons; $15; ninenet.org
Watch Feast TV segments and enjoy presentations and samples from chefs featured on the show. Experience the beauty and the flavor of local, Midwest-raised fish and learn the hows and whys of preparing, dining and imbibing with all things aquatic – paired with outstanding wines and beers, of course.
feaSt PReSentS BonfiRe Wed., Oct. 26, 6 to 8pm, ANEW Rooftop and Test Kitchen, 501 N. Grand Blvd., Grand Center; feastmagazine.com/events
Join us for a one-of-a-kind preview party at ANEW Rooftop and Test Kitchen sponsored by Feast, Baileys’ Chocolate Bar and Major Brands. Ticket includes two specialty s’mores and two signature paired drinks, plus a takeaway mug.
SchnuckS cookS: RoaSted VeniSon Loin With BLackBeRRy Sauce Wed., Oct. 26, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School; $45; schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704
In this class, you’ll learn how to perfectly cook venison loin and to make an expert soufflé using spinach and other savory ingredients. You’ll also make a sweet and tangy cider vinaigrette to dress up a classic fall beet salad.
cathedRaL SquaRe taSting dinneR Tue., Nov. 1, 6pm; Hendricks BBQ; 636.724.8600; hendricksbbq.com/cathedralsquare
Brewmaster Brian Neville of Cathedral Square Brewery will pair its beers with Hendricks BBQ offerings in a four-course tasting dinner. Cathedral brews include Peaching to the Choir, Holy Moly Stout, Belgian White Ale and Ave Maria Barrel-Aged Cherry Quad. Pint glasses will be available for free at the event.
Four Course Beer Pairing Dinner featuring Ales from Cathedral Square Brewery:
- Peaching to the Choir - Holy Moly Stout - Belgian White Ale - Ave Maria Barrel-Aged Cherry Quad
Free CSB Pint glass! HendricksBBQ.com/CathedralSquare 636.724.8600 | 1200 S. Main St., St. Charles, MO
www.HendricksBBQ.com | Inspired Local Food Culture
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this month on
hungry for more ? connect with us daily:
PHOtOgraPHy By ana PiErCE
PHOtOgraPHy By MaBEl SuEn
Win a pair of general admission tickets to the SEC Beer Fest in Columbia, Missouri, on Sat., Oct. 15! Head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine.com for all the details.
SPOTLIGHT At the recently opened Mariscos El Gato, South City gets a taste of Mexican cuisine in a style previously unseen on Cherokee Street. The seafood-centric eatery features Nayarit-style food from the northern Pacific coast of Mexico.
a Field-to-Glass distillery in new FlorenCe, missouri wood Hat spirits is a true, local, field-to-glass distillery producing heirloom corn whiskeys, bourbons and cordialsin New Florence, Missouri. Gary Hinegardner, owner and distiller, has incorporated his education, life experiences and ingenuity to create an array of nationally award-winning spirits.
so-mo From waffles topped with fresh fruit, perfectly poached eggs and crispy bacon to tacos and grilled cheese, Springfield, Missouri, knows how to do brunch. Weâ€™ve rounded up our 10 favorite spots to grab brunch in the city.
PHOtOgraPHy By aPril FlEMing
PHOtOgraPHy By arrOn OttiS
KC Longtime Kansas City-area restaurateur Gary Berbiglia has opened the doors to Berbigliaâ€™s Roost in Overland Park, Kansas. The menu is expansive, but the fried chicken and barbecue dishes are the true stars here.
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You’ve already dreamed up the blueprints. We may be able to help bring them to life. The U.S. Bank Home Equity Line of Credit offers competitive rates, flexible payment options and trusted service to help you finance the lasting home improvements you’ve always wanted.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
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osage catfisheries’ farm-raised paddlefish are a sustainable source for incredibly delicious, high-quality american caviar.
fish isn’t just flown into the midwest from coastal sources. here at home, we produce a number of delicious aquatic products. in this episode, we head to rural missouri to see freshwater trout raised in cold, clear spring water at troutdale farm, which sources fish to the region’s best restaurants. we’ll also stop by anton’s in kansas city, where an aquaponic system (in the basement, no less) creates a haven for tilapia and fresh greens. we also head to osage beach to see how paddlefish roe is made into world-class caviar. in the kitchen, host cat neville fries up fresh tilapia for crunchy fish tacos with a spicy aïoli and fresh cabbage.
it doesn’t get any fresher than the fish at anton’s in kansas city, where tilapia are raised in an aquaponic system in the basement. the fish supply nutrients to the herbs and greens growing on top of the tanks, which, in turn, filter the water for the fish.
missouri spring water rushes through the fish ponds at troutdale farm in gravois mills, missouri, where trout have been raised commercially since 1932. today, merritt and dennis van landuyt oversee the operation, supplying pristine trout to some of the state’s best restaurants.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: Missouri Wines
Whole Foods Market
l’ école culinaire
Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.
Feast TV is proud to feature Whole Foods Market’s 365 Everyday Value line of products. Pick up ingredients at Whole Foods locations in the St. Louis area.
In St. Louis and Kansas City, L’École Culinaire offers high-quality culinary education from basic culinary skills to careers in management.
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the raphael hotel The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.
7195 manchester road | st. Louis, mo 63143 | (314) 925-8800 | intagliahg.com
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.
sMoKED KED ToDaY To Gone TomorroW (314) 621-3107 FOR ALL YOUR CATERING NEEDS
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.
1627 S. 9th Street St. Louis, MO 63104 bogartssmokehouse.com
smoking up this joint since February 18, 2011
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 8pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm. Beginning Oct. 20, watch Feast TV Thursdays at 7pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.
Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.
Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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The Far East just got a lot closer. S t. Louis’ newest Asian restaurant invites you to take a unique culinary excursion through a continent of exceptional dishes.
ONE AMERISTAR BLVD ST. CHARLES, MO 63301 | 636.949.7777 |
Must be 21 or older to gamble. Exclusions may apply. Gambling problem? Call 1-888-BETSOFF. ©2016 Pinnacle Entertainment Inc. All rights reserved.
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get a leg up on dinner
At the Rockhill Grille, enjoy breathtaking views of Downtown Kansas City alongside roasted chicken with sweet potato hash, green beans and avocado on p. 20. photography by anna petrow
cashew chicken SPRINGFIELD, MO. one of springfield, pringfield, Missouri’s oldest bars,
on the ritz Written by HeatHer riske | PHotograPHy by j. Pollack PHotograPHy
Poutine got its start as a working-class meal in 1950s Quebec, but the Canadian comfort food is now ubiquitous in some of the region’s hippest restaurants. Traditionally, the dish features a foundation of crispy french fries smothered in thick brown gravy and firm, springy cheese curds, but chefs are elevating the dish with everything from bone marrow to foie gras.
Lindberg’s,, introduced its first food menu just last summer, but co-owners eric Weiler and ryan yan Dock had been brainstorming dishes for years, including poutine – back when not many restaurants in the area were serving it. Weiler and Dock wanted to take their version one step further by giving it a decidedly local twist. to that end, lindberg’s indberg’s serves both a traditional poutine and a cashew-chicken poutine – a tribute to the world-famous dish that originated in springfield in the 1960s. it features a basket of hand-cut fries slathered in a gravy made with chicken stock, oyster sauce and soy sauce; it’s then topped with fried chicken and cheese curds and sprinkled with the requisite green onions and cashews. “We looked at local foods as a way to change up our poutine and realized that the cashew chicken would add something a little more interesting to the dish,” Weiler says. “People are always excited to try it because they can’t get cashew chicken on poutine anywhere else – it definitely has a novelty element.” 417.868.8900, lindbergsbar.com
seafood KANSAS CITY. Louie’s Wine Dive has six locations across the Midwest – including kansas city; overland Park, kansas; ansas; and a newly opened location in clayton, layton, Missouri – and you’ll find the same seafood-spiked poutine on the menu at each location. Phillip Peters, executive chef at kansas city’s Waldo location, says the poutine served at louie’s is a good example of the wine bar’s overall philosophy: taking familiar comfort-food dishes and adding a twist. the first spin on poutine served at louie’s featured lobster, followed by its current blue-fin crab poutine with portobello mushrooms, green onion, cheese curds, seafood gravy and crispy shoestring fries. at the end of august, louie’s ouie’s introduced an additional version that adds a fried egg and a spicy kick from harissa, a hot chile-pepper paste traditionally used in north african cooking. “the he reception to our twist on the classic canadian anadian dish has been very positive,” Peters says. “the he key is to have a very flavorful gravy. Plus, the cheese curds need to be only slightly melted, and the fries have to be extra crispy so they don’t get soggy in the gravy.”
burger FESTUS, MO. Denny Foster, who co-owns Main & Mill Brewing Co. in Festus, Missouri, says the brewpub’s poutine burger is a little like its green-chile beer – you’re either going to love it or hate it. Main & Mill introduced it as a special in july; the ½-pound burger is loaded with Wisconsin cheese curds, fries and housemade brown gravy and is served on a brioche bun. as if that weren’t enough, the burger arrives surrounded by even more fries and a side of gravy for dipping. “People are usually either totally sold, or they’re disgusted; however, if someone knows he or she likes gravy and orders it, it’s a hit,” Foster says. “it seems like an odd combination, but once they try it, they tend to share it with their friends.” the response has been positive enough that the poutine burger earned permanent status in august, when Main & Mill introduced a new burger menu with 20 options ranging from the classic to – in the case of the poutine burger – the creative.
where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.
the rockhill grille KANSAS CITY. The Rockhill Grille is making waves in Kansas city’s crossroads arts district. it’s the second concept from back napkin restaurant group, which also owns rnd corner grille in Lawrence, Kansas. the restaurant, named after William rockhill nelson, co-founder of The Kansas City Star, opened in august, with two floors of impeccably designed dining, drinking and private-event spaces that offer breathtaking views of downtown. back napkin culinary director danny White, formerly of the capital grille, developed a casual-but-cool menu that
Written by Jenny Vergara
rockhill executive chef daniel duran executes flawlessly. try starters including calamari steaks (pictured below), fresh oysters, tuna poké and beef carpaccio, or go big with entrées such as roasted chicken, cedar-planked salmon and heritage beef filet mignon; banana cream pie is a dessert worth saving room to enjoy. although the upstairs is more of a lounge with a pared-down bar menu, a full bar is the focal point in the downstairs dining room, offering a selection of custom cocktails, wine and beer. 816.389.5800, therockhillgrille.com
druff’s Story and photography by ana pierce
SPRINGFIELD, MO. Located in the heart of downtown Springfield,
photography by anna petroW
Missouri, Druff’s opened in May serving gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, hot soup and cold beer. the name is a playful take on the restaurant’s location in the historic Woodruff building. although first-timers might have a hankering for a traditional grilled cheese, the more adventurous will find inspired options at druff’s. the menu boasts 12 sandwiches: try the good doctor, with cheddar, cream cheese, bacon and jalapeños on sourdough, or the Uncle tatey, with goat cheese, mildly spicy pork, fresh strawberries, a balsamic-strawberry reduction spread and red pepper flakes on wheat. don’t forget a Lil’ dipper of housemade tomato soup on the side. 417.719.1719, yumdruffs.com
STORY AND PhOTOGRAPhY BY MABEl SuEN
CRESTWOOD, MO. At Yolklore, co-owners Mary and John Bogacki and Billy Oziransky cook up fast-casual breakfast and brunch. The chef-inspired dishes are served seven days a week via a walk-up counter or drive-thru for a quick fix of morning fare in Crestwood, Missouri. Early birds can savor 11 entrées including the Nest Egg, a buttery biscuit crust filled with Cheddar, bacon, two Buttonwood Farm eggs, pickled red onion and preserved lemon. Sweet selections include a variety of housemade pastries and desserts
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such as blueberry coffeecake; fruit-filled, from-scratch Pop-Tarts; and giant cream puffs stuffed with seasonal fillings. On the drink menu, options include fresh-squeezed juices, fruit and vegetable smoothies, and cups of joe from Dubuque Coffee Co. From savory breakfast sandwiches on fresh-baked bread to refreshing drinks and from-scratch sweet treats, Yolklore offers plenty of choices to make the first meal of the day feel legendary. 314.270.8538, yolklore.com
N eO O
aaron teitelbaum and chris vomund owner, herbieâ€™s vintage â€˜72 and kingside diner
executive chef, herbieâ€™s vintage â€˜72 and kingside diner WrITTEN By SArAH KLOEPPLE
CLAYTON, MO. Herbieâ€™s Vintage â€˜72, the
acclaimed French bistro housed in the former home of CafĂŠ Balaban in the Central West End, is moving to yet another storied location in the St. Louis area. In early November, Herbieâ€™s will reopen for business in Clayton, Missouri â€“ in the space previously occupied by the late Cardwellâ€™s in Clayton. But thereâ€™s more than just a new location. Herbieâ€™s owner Aaron Teitelbaum (pictured left) â€“ who also owns Kingside Diner â€“ is stepping out of the kitchen to make way for a new executive chef: his former chef de cuisine, Chris Vomund. Teitelbaum will spend more time greeting guests and ensuring they have a memorable experience in the front of house, and he will officially hand over the kitchen to Vomund by the end of the year. Vomund, whose rĂŠsumĂŠ includes Pi Pizzeria, Eleven Eleven Mississippi and now-shuttered The Nest, will manage menus and kitchen operations at both Kingside and Herbieâ€™s (which will be open in the Central West End until Oct. 2).
314.769.9595, herbies.com 314.454.3957, kingsidediner.com
PHOTOgrAPHy By j. POLLACK PHOTOgrAPHy
Why move to Clayton? The term of our lease was up at this point. We had an opportunity at the Cardwellâ€™s location that, really, we just couldnâ€™t pass up. It was truly a business decision. The facility has a patio that weâ€™ll be gaining when we move into Cardwellâ€™s â€“ itâ€™s really amazing. Weâ€™ve been [in the Central West End] for eight years. We felt like it was time for a change. â€“Aaron Teitelbaum With Chris on board as the executive chef, what is your role now? Chris has been with me for nearly two years, and weâ€™ve been getting him situated to take over the kitchens completely. Heâ€™s been running them for some time but hasnâ€™t officially taken the reins until now. Iâ€™m actually hanging up my chef coat and moving back to the front of the house where I originally began. â€“A.T. Chris, what do you hope to bring to Herbieâ€™s? Thereâ€™s so much tradition with the menu here that it was kind of easy when I first got in. There are so many great dishes that we didnâ€™t have to do a ton to the menu. I mean, how do you make beef Wellington much better? But itâ€™s cool being able to keep that French technique that everything is rooted in at Herbieâ€™s and bring some Midwestern flair to classic French dishes. â€“Chris Vomund Aaron, how did you and Chris connect? My wife mentioned his name and said that the restaurant he was working at was no longer in operation and that maybe I should talk to this guy. [His ideas] were very well-presented and extremely passionate. His humility when it came to his cooking was just amazing. He brought a lack of ego with him, which is rare to find in a chef. We all have extremely big egos. After Iâ€™ve gotten to know him a little bit better, he does have an ego! But at least one thatâ€™s very in check: His humility is amazing when it comes to his cooking because itâ€™s spectacular. â€“A.T. Chris, what are some of your favorite dishes youâ€™ve added to the menus at Kingside and Herbieâ€™s? Kingside is so great because everything is near and dear to my heart. Itâ€™s food that Iâ€™ve always cooked for my friends and family. But the pancakes are probably one of my favorite things. We do a fantastic gluten-free quinoa pancake that has all the elementsâ€Ś Iâ€™d almost have to say the [Kingside] Slinger [with hash browns, a fried egg, pulled pork and chorizo chili] tops it, though. Iâ€™m a huge slinger fan. I donâ€™t know that you could be from Missouri and not enjoy it. At Herbieâ€™s, weâ€™re just finishing up with a slow-roasted pork belly dish with blue cheese grits and espagnole sauce, as well as a grilled swordfish dish thatâ€™s pretty rad. â€“C.V.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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destination: Richmond, indiana |1|
WRITTeN By AMy LyNCH
If you can’t make up your mind between beer and wine, the new Heartland Wine & Ale Trail, which skirts the border between eastern Indiana and western Ohio, offers the best of both worlds. Five participating wineries and four microbreweries – from Muncie down through Richmond, Indiana, and over into Versailles, Ohio – offer sips and samples on the self-guided tour. For more information and a suggested itinerary, go to visitrichmond.org.
eat clara’s pizza king
the old richmond inn
Part of the locally beloved Pizza King franchise, it’s worth visiting Clara’s for the ambience alone. The multilevel dining room boasts Tiffany-style lamps, kitschy antiques and a few hanging porch swings. Call the kitchen from the phone at your table, and order up The Royal Feast: a thin-crust, square-cut pizza with sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, onions and peppers. Be prepared – kids will clamor to sit inside the indoor double-decker bus. 765.966.8302, ringtheking.com
Located in a former residence built in 1892 and boasting seven dining rooms, three fireplaces, preserved architectural details and stained-glass features, longtime local favorite The Old Richmond Inn is the go-to for intimate anniversary celebrations, ladies who lunch, prom dinners and other special-occasion meals. Featuring fancy pastas, delicious poultry dishes, a small-yet-respectable wine list, and the best surf-and-turf in town, it’s easy to see the appeal.
| 1 | PHOTO COurTesy Clara's Pizza king
gulzar’s indian cuisine
the kitchen at the loft
Cozy eatery Gulzar's Indian Cuisine made waves in the Richmond dining scene when it opened its doors about a year ago by inspiring diners in a traditionally meat-and-potatoes town to sit up and smell the curry. The lunch buffet is a great way to taste a range of classic Indian dishes like samosas, biryani, saag paneer and chicken tikka masala, as well a few newfangled recipes – onion-ring pakora, anyone?
Richmond’s newest farm-to-table destination, The Kitchen at the Loft, is happily settling into its industrial-chic home within the Historic Depot District. Brunches, lunches and dinners transform some of the area’s best meat and produce into mouthwatering modern comfort food, including meatloaf sandwiches, snappy fresh salads, salsa verde flatbread, sweet potato-blue cheese quiche and a classic chicken pot pie.
765.580.9393, facebook.com/ gulzarsrichmond
| 2 | PHOTO COurTesy THe kiTCHen aT THe lOfT
local gems richmond art museum
Located on the handsome Richmond High School campus, this free hidden gem wows with permanent exhibits that highlight American Impressionists and ceramics, along with a regional art collection – more than 400 objects and paintings are currently on display.
Dougherty’s family-run orchard dates back to 1883. Many visitors return here each fall to pick their own apples and pumpkins, sip fresh cider and pay a visit to the adorable petting zoo. Don't miss the apple cider donuts!
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sleep philip w. smith bed & breakfast Housed in a gorgeously restored 1890 Queen Anne-style property, the charming six-guestroom Philip W. Smith Bed & Breakfast sits along the Historic National Road, one block from Richmond’s Glen Miller Park. Stunning woodwork, classic period furnishings, exemplary hospitality, evening snacks and a gourmet breakfast are all part of the package. 765.966.8972, pwsmithbnb.com
chocolate trail If your tastes tend more toward sweet than savory, pick up a free Chocolate Trail Passport at the Old National Road Welcome Center to score samples and gifts from local candy shops and other businesses. The chocolate-scented votive you’ll receive at Warm Glow Candle Co. Store smells good enough to eat.
| 3 | PHOTO COurTesy dOugHerTy OrCHard 765.935.8687, visitrichmond.org
| 4 | PHOTO COurTesy riCHmOnd VisiTOrs bureau
seldom scene meadow bed and breakfast Nestled in an idyllic country setting just north of downtown Richmond, Seldom Scene Meadow delivers a welcoming bed-and-breakfast experience with a focus on sustainability. Solar power provides the electricity and hot water that keep the property running, and many of the furnishings are handcrafted and locally produced. Overnight stays include a wholesome continental breakfast spread; guests can request a heartier family-style option for an additional charge. 765.427.3472, seldomscenemeadow.com
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david b. knight
president and founder, ole hickory pits
Written by Valeria turturro Klamm
CAPe GIRARDeAU, Mo. this
month, david b. Knight, president and founder of Ole Hickory Pits commercial barbecue smoker ovens, will be formally inducted into the barbecue hall of Fame during the american royal 2016 World Series of barbecue in Kansas City, Kansas. one of three 2016 inductees, Knight has been an industry influencer since he created his first brick barbecue pit in 1974 at port Cape girardeau, his restaurant in Cape girardeau, missouri.
photography by elaine rohde
You operated Port Cape Girardeau for almost 20 years before selling it. How did the restaurant inspire the creation of Ole Hickory Pits? back then, there was no modern technology. to match the restaurant’s building, i built a brick pit, which is what i was familiar with from growing up around pruett’s pit barbecue in poplar bluff, missouri. but there was no good way to control the fire. by the third time the fire department came to put out a fire, i realized the need for a different type of pit. How are the pits you manufacture today different from the first pit you built in 1974? back in the day, controlling the fire hazard was a big deal. imagine having 600 pounds of pork butts igniting and then turning into rocket fuel – inside a historic building that was built in 1837! We now have control over the fire and are able to smoke meat safely and much more efficiently with the pit’s heat- and smoke-circulation systems. the new designs have been phenomenally successful in the barbecue-competition world, as well. Where are Ole Hickory Pits used? Worldwide. my son [was recently in] Sweden representing the company at a barbecue event. in [the] St. louis [area], some of the restaurants that use ole hickory are pappy’s [Smokehouse], bogart’s [Smokehouse], Sugarfire [Smoke house], the Shaved duck, and on and on. in Kansas City, arthur bryant’s has been cooking on our equipment for more than 30 years. my old friend mike mills [uses ole hickory] at 17th Street barbecue in murphysboro and marion, illinois. mills and i have collaborated on projects, [too], like the big apple barbecue block party in new york. hundreds of thousands of people show up to enjoy real barbecue. Do you compete in the barbecue-competition circuit yourself? no. our role is to help you barbecue at your best. We don’t try to compete with our customers. our greatest success is to shine in the reflected successes they achieve. You’ve had a big year. What’s next? We’re collaborating with Carnival Cruise line and guy Fieri, who is a friend of mine. his [guy’s pig & anchor bar-b-Que Smokehouse] restaurant is onboard the Carnival magic and will soon be on the Carnival Vista and Carnival dream using custom ole hickory pits smokers.
bierstation.com | 816-548-3870 Kansas City, MO
Inspired Local Food Culture
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In SEASOn: OCTOBEr TO FEBrUAry
WRITTEN BY NANCY STILES
Sweet and plumlike, persimmons are a sure sign of fall. The orange fruits grow on trees throughout Missouri, Illinois and eastern Kansas, and according to Ozarks folklore, they’re even said to predict winter snowfalls. Chefs use them to add spice and depth of flavor.
banana spring roll COLUMBIA, MO. Dried persimmons were one of chef-owner Jina Yoo’s favorite snacks growing up in South Korea; she loves the texture, which reminds her of apricots, and the darker flavor. After Yoo moved to the U.S. 23 years ago, her mom continued to send her dried persimmons from home. When Yoo opened Jina Yoo’s Asian Bistro nine years ago in Columbia, Missouri, she knew she needed to incorporate dried persimmons onto the menu, which led to the restaurant’s Gorilla in the Kitchen dessert. “I thought about how cinnamon really goes well with banana and sweet potato and persimmon – why don’t I just put it all together somehow?” Yoo recalls. She also drew inspiration from a Chinese dessert with a deep-fried banana egg roll. She starts with a halved banana stuffed with a mixture of dried persimmons, cinnamon, brown sugar and mashed sweet potatoes, which is then rolled up in a thin spring roll. She deep-fries the roll and tops it with vanilla ice cream, caramelized walnuts, chocolate ganache and caramel. “Columbia is a transitional city; when people move, the one thing from my menu they miss is the Gorilla in the Kitchen,” Yoo says. “When they come back to visit, they make sure we have it.”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARIASHUMOvA/ISTOCK
SMITHVILLE, MO. The flesh of persimmons is usually the part that’s
eaten, but Jonathan Justus, chef-owner of Justus Drugstore in Smithville, Missouri, likes to use the seeds as a spice. “We’ve constantly been trying to work out flavor profiles that are about here and not about other places,” he says, pointing to a wild persimmon seed-rabbit terrine, a longstanding component of the restaurant’s popular Farmer’s Platter. The terrine, made of both chopped and ground rabbit sourced from The Rare Hare Barn in Leon, Kansas, is seasoned with Madeira (although Justus hopes to find a Missouri white wine he can oxidize and use instead), onions, garlic, bay leaves, salt, lovage leaves, rabbit stock and a house pâté spice. The pâté spice combines spicebush – a wild shrub native to both Missouri and Kansas – toasted ground persimmon seeds, toasted ground sumac, cassia, star anise and white pepper. He’s also making a persimmon pulp-dandelion wine sauce this fall. At home, Justus recommends drying the leaves to steep in tea or toasting the seeds and grinding them in a spice or coffee grinder, although you’ll need to sift and regrind the mixture a few times. “Or, heck, don’t even sift them – steep the toasted, ground seeds in cream and milk, then strain it out and make persimmon seed ice cream,” he says, musing that he might just do that himself at the restaurant. “I know the flavors we’re gonna get – it’s gonna be kind of tropical and chocolatey and coffee [flavored]. It should be fantastic!” 816.532.2300, drugstorerestaurant.com
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pork glaze MAPLEWOOD, MO. Chef KT Ayers of Schlafly Bottleworks
didn’t encounter persimmons until she was in her late teens or early twenties, but for her father, Andy Ayers of Eat Here St. Louis, however, a new supply of persimmons from a local farmer was a major nostalgia trip. He remembered the persimmon trees in his parents' backyard and his mother’s persimmon spice cake and persimmon apple sauce. So KT set to work finding ways to use the tiny fruits, which she gets from Ivan’s Fig Farm in Dittmer, Missouri, at the brewpub in Maplewood, Missouri. This month, she’ll be using persimmons to make a glaze for a bone-in, center-cut pork chop. She combines the persimmon pulp with browned onions, garlic and thyme for a little roundness and balance, plus Nebraska white-wine vinegar and perhaps even some orange peel. The pork chop – sourced from Missouri farmers Todd Geisert of Todd Geisert Farms and Mike Crowden of Root + Holler – is spiced with warm flavors like cinnamon and then grilled. The persimmon glaze is added on the last turn of the grill to really let it set without masking the pork flavor. "[Persimmons] are sweet, but not just sweet," KT says. "Because it’s got such a good structure, it’s kind of a full flavor experience on the palate.” 314.241.2337, schlaflybeer.com/bottleworks
CHEF’S TIP Don’t try to purée persimmons: It will release tannins and make the fruit extremely bitter. Jonathan Justus uses an old-fashioned potato ricer to keep the persimmons from getting too agitated. “Finding the right fruit is the first thing, and not all persimmons are created equal,” he says. “Even though there’s supposedly one species, some are much better than others. You have to handle it really gently because [the flavor] can get weird really fast.”
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keeyoung kim and david son co-owners, sura eats
Written By Bethany Christo
KAnSAS CITY. “Food is emotion,” says Sura Eats co-owner Keeyoung Kim (pictured left). “the strongest emotions i have are from the memories and feelings of sitting around a table and sharing a traditional Korean meal made by my parents.” he and co-owner David son, who both grew up on the east Coast, are planning to evoke that essence of “mama’s home cooking” with sura eats, their Korean pop up and eventual brick and mortar restaurant in Kansas City. the pair emphasize authentic Korean food like that served in a sit-down restaurant, but in an efficient, fast-casual setting. Down the road, they also hope to add fusion items and more creative takes on traditional Korean dishes. the first pop up was held in July at the Bite in river Market, which sold out in two hours. Guests tasted dishes including pork shoulder in a sweet-and-spicy red pepper marinade; mandu, Korean dumplings; japchae, sweet potato glass noodles tossed in sesame seed oil with stir-fried carrot, spinach, onion and mushroom; and kimchi fried rice with pork belly and a sunny-side-up egg. the next monthly pop up is october 15 at Pirate's Bone Coffee in Brookside; follow sura eats on Facebook for more updates.
ROOFTOP & TEST KITCHEN. A new place to inspire & entertain.
501 N. Grand Blvd. Suite #100 St . Lo u i s, M O. 6 31 03
cocktails craft beer lunch dinner brunch 6 N Sarah Street CWE STL MO
PhotoGraPhy By sanDra ParK
Why did you decide to launch in Kansas City? David and i connected through a mutual friend in Maryland. We both felt strongly about how small business can impact certain communities. i held restaurant positions in the Chicago area, including at the first Pinstripes, and helped open the harvard location of Pinkberry. David and i started dreaming, and in 2014, the idea of quickservice Korean food came to the table. after visiting friends in Kansas City and falling in love with the local food scene, i thought the timing seemed perfect. i noticed all the ramen shops opening, but when looking for a place for Korean food – my food – in Kansas City, i couldn’t really find anything. –Keeyoung Kim My background is finance: investment banking, private equity and corporate. although Keeyoung has more experience in the [restaurant] industry, we both share a passion for food, which we established pretty quickly over many, many late-night meals spent planning and dreaming. –David Son You describe Sura Eats as “mama’s home cooking.” Are your mothers good cooks? she’s the best. But, i remember bringing her Korean food to elementary school lunch, and the kids being like, “What is that smell? that’s so weird! What are you eating with that rice?” i begged my mom to just make me a PB&J. as i got older and moved away for college, coming back every so often and having my mom’s food again, that’s really when i learned to value Korean food and develop a deep appreciation for my culture. –K.K. i actually never had any shame about eating Korean food. i’d eat it with pride, even growing up, like, “yes, it smells and looks different, but i’m eating it with a grin because it’s delicious.” –D.S. Tell us about the food at Sura Eats. We want to bring comfort food that’s delicious but unassuming. We recognize these might be foreign flavors to some palates, and we’re trying to strike that balance of being true to what we grew up eating but also making it approachable. Kansas City is such a meat-heavy and barbecue town, so i’m going to be highlighting Korean barbecue. i’m very excited about Korean street food, particularly ddeokbokki, which is a rice cake with spicy gochujang sauce, different proteins and maybe a hard-boiled egg. –K.K. the vendors [in Korea] hand-roll the rice cakes, and every family at home has its own recipe for them, so it combines those two elements. –D.S. What’s the meaning behind the name? Sura in Korean refers to royal cuisine. in Korean history, a room, called suragan, would be set up for the king and queen, and within that room a surasang, a beautiful and well-decorated table, is lavishly prepared for them to enjoy, and to emphasize their health and longevity. For us, we want to present what the king and queen ate to the general public, and we want to make sure it aesthetically looks beautiful, too. –K.K.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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Regional RestauRant guide As proud supporters of Feast Magazine, we encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!
2nd Shift Brewing 1401 Olive Road New Haven, MO 573.237.3421 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com
Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com
Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard 201 Montelle Drive at MO Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com
4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com
Catrina’s 1027 Century Drive Edwardsville, IL 618.692.5522 facebook.com/catrinaslatincuisine
EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery 550 Chesterfield Center Chesterfield, MO 636.532.0550 edgewildwinery.com
La Cosecha Coffee Roasters 7360 Manchester Road Maplewood, MO 314.440.0337 lacosechacoffee.com
Aerie’s Winery 800 Timber Ridge Drive Grafton, IL 62037 618.786.7477 aeriesview.com
Cave Vineyard 21124 Cave Road Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.543.5284 cavevineyard.com
Farmer’s Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com
Lake Creek Winery 15088 Boone Monument Road Marthasville, MO 636.242.2036 lakecreekwinery.com
Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com
Cellar House 6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, MO 314.846.5100 bottlecellars.com
Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com
Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com
Balducci Vineyards 6601 Hwy 94 S. Augusta, MO 636.482.8466 balducciswineryandrestaurant.com
Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com
Gallagher’s Restaurant 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com
Martin Brothers Winery 1623 Old Iron Road Hermann, MO 573.486.0236 martinbrotherswinery.com
Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com
Cielo in the Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis 999 N. Second St. St. Louis, MO 314.881.5759 fourseasons.com
Hendricks BBQ 1200 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.8600 hendricksbbq.com
The Muddled Pig 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com
Best Regards Bakery & Café 6759 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 913.912.7238 makethemsmile.com
Corner Restaurant 4059 Broadway Kansas City, MO 816.931.4401 thecornerkc.com
The Jacobson 2050 Central St. Kansas City, MO 816.423.2888 thejacobsonkc.com
Noboleis Vineyards 100 Hemsath Road Augusta, MO 636.482.4500 noboleisvineyards.com
Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com
Diablito’s 3761 Laclede Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.644.4430 diablitoscantina.com
Café Ventana 3919 W. Pine Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.531.7500 cafeventana.com
Drunken Fish multiple locations drunkenfish.com
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Kaldi’s Coffee Multiple Locations kaldiscoffee.com
King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com
Olympia Kebob House & Taverna 1543 McCausland Ave. Richmond Heights, MO 314.781.1299 olympiakebobandtavern.com
Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com
Ravanelli’s Restaurant 3 American Village .oC gn iwerB tuntsehC nabrU 26 Collinsport.eDrive vA notgnihsaW 9223 Granite City, IL | Collinsville, OM ,siuIL oL .tS 3410.222.413 618.877.8000 | 618.343.9000 ravanellis.com moc.tuntsehcnabru
Schlafly Tap Room and Schlafly Bottleworks nillLouis, itsiD nw oT s’moT 2100 Locust St.gSt. MO 7260 Southwest Ave. .tS niaM 1071 OM ,ytiC sasnaK Maplewood, MO 0042.145.618 314.241.2337 moc.nwot-smot schlafly.com
ortsiB naisA s’ecniV Rendezvous Caféaand Wine zalP nollBar aF’O 121 217 S. Main St. OM ,nollaF’O O’Fallon, MO 9876.879.636 636.281.2233 moc.ortsibnaisasecniv rendezvouscafeandwinebar.com
eppesuiG airottarT SoT 12 .etR .tS dlO 2445 1521 Grand Blvd. OM ,lairepmI Kansas City, MO 5042.249.636 816.842.8482 moc.eppesuig-airottart sotkc.com
sdrayeniV xoV 3# daoR notpmaH yelraF WN 01391 RetreatGastropub OM ,ytiC sasnaK 3094.453.618 6 N. Sarah St. moc.sdrayenivxov St. Louis, MO 314.261.4497 retreatgastropub.com yreniW nuS dliW
llirG hpmuirT .tS evilO 9143 OM ,siuoL .tS 1081.644.413 Stefanina’s Pizzeria & Restaurant moc.llirghpmuirt multiple locations stefspizza.com
daoR reenoiP 0384 OM ,orobslliH 6868.797.636 Röbller Vineyard m& ocWinery .yreniwnusdliw 275 Röbller Vineyard Road New Haven, MO ksaC dooW 573.237.3986 daoR retsehcnaM 23301 robllerwines.com OM ,doowkriK 5801.858.413 moc.ksacdooweht Sanctuaria 4198 Manchester Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.535.9700 sanctuariastl.com
yrehctuB dna selffurT daoR notyalC 2029 OM ,siuoL .tS 0019.765.413 StoneHill Winery moc.sefflurttayadot 1110 Stone Hill Hwy Hermann, MO eerT detsiwT 573.486.2221 daoR nostaW 10701 stonehillwinery.com OM ,siuoL .tS 6633.493.413 moc.esuohkaetseertdetsiwt Syberg’s multiple locations sybergs.com
dna mooR paT ylfalhcS Tom’s Town Distilling skrowelttoB ylfalhcS 1701 MainSt. OM ,siuoL .tS .tS tsucoL 0012 Kansas City, MO 816.541.2400 .evA tsewhtuoS 0627 OM ,doowelpaM toms-town.com 7332.142.413 moc.yflalhcs
tnaBrewing ruatseRCo. s’illenavaR Urban Chestnut egalliV naciremA 3 3229WashingtonAve. St. Louis,MO evirD tropsnilloC 62 314.222.0143 LI ,ellivsnilloC | LI ,ytiC etinarG urbanchestnut.com 0009.343.816 | 0008.778.816 moc.sillenavar
ToS Trattoria Giuseppe.dvlB dnarG 1251 5442 Old St. Rte. 21 OM ,ytiC sasnaK Imperial, MO 2848.248.618 636.942.2405 moc.cktos trattoria-giuseppe.com
raB eniW dna éfaC suovzedneR Vince’s Asian Bistro .tS niaM .S 712 121 O’Fallon Plaza OM ,nollaF’O O’Fallon, MO 3322.182.636 636.978.6789 moc.rabeniwdnaefacsuovzedner vincesasianbistro.com
tnaruatseR & airezziP s’aninafetS snoitacol elpitlum Triumph Grill moc.azzipsfets 3419 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.446.1801 triumphgrill.com yreniW lliH enotS ywH lliH enotS 0111 OM ,nnamreH 1222.684.375 Truffles and Butchery moc.yreniwllihenots 9202 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.567.9100 s’grebyS todayattruffles.com snoitacol elpitlum moc.sgrebys
buportsaG taerteR .tS haraS .N 6 OM ,siuoL .tS Vox Vineyards 7944.162.413 19310 NW FarleyHampton Road#3 moc.buportsagtaerter Kansas City, MO 816.354.4903 voxvineyards.com yreniW & drayeniV rellböR daoR drayeniV rellböR 572 OM ,nevaH weN 6893.732.375 Wild Sun Winery moc.seniwrellbor 4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO airautcnaS 636.797.8686 .evA retsehcnaM 8914 wildsunwinery.com OM ,siuoL .tS 0079.535.413 moc.ltsairautcnas
Twisted Tree 10701 Watson Road St. Louis, MO 314.394.3366 twistedtreesteakhouse.com
Wood Cask 10332 Manchester Road Kirkwood, MO 314.858.1085 thewoodcask.com
IN THE HEART OF KCMO.
waldomo.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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Lou Fusz Subaru
is the key to exceptional service. • Exceptional Customer Service • Huge Selection and Savings • Proud Supporter of the Humane Society of Missouri
Lou Fusz Subaru Creve Coeur 10329 Old Olive Street St. Louis, MO 63141 Subaru.Fusz.com 314-994-1500 28
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Spice your own rums and other spirits with star anise, hibiscus, cinnamon, allspice and more on p. 34. photography by jonathan gayman
rad radlers WRITTEn By BEThAny chRISTo | PhoTogRAPhy By JonAThAn gAymAn
Radler is a refreshing drink traditionally made with equal parts carbonated lemonade and lager. Radler translates to “cyclist” in German and is popular among cyclists in the summertime, but radlers also make crisp fall sippers to counterbalance the heavy stouts and porters dotting menus this season.
blood orange LAwRENCE, KS. Technically, Free State Brewing Co. has had a
radler on its brewpub’s “secret” menu in lawrence, Kansas, for more than 10 years, according to head brewer geoff Deman. The cyclist is simply half housemade lemonade and half Wheat State golden. Three years ago, Deman was inspired by Stiegl’s popular grapefruit radler (and his girlfriend’s urging) to release his own. The resulting blood orange radler was so popular this year that Deman had to double production. Seven barrels of blood orange soda are made in the brewpub’s kettles, cooled and then run through hoses out the back to a portable trailer, which hauls it across town to the production facility. The soda is then blended with a version of Free State’s maibock grain bill. “I think there’s a certain segment of drinkers who gravitate toward wine or cider who like the fruity, refreshing flavor of a radler,” Deman says. The radler ran on draft in the summer and is no longer available, but Free State will release it again next year. Deman is considering adding a cold-weather radler with a more savory flavor like lemongrass. 785.843.4555, freestatebrewing.com
grapefruit Local beer experts recommend pairings to make radlers at home:
Boulevard Brewing Co. Reverb Imperial Pilsner
Boulevard Brewing Co. KC Pils
VILLA ITALIA gRApEfRuIT SodA
(sold at Trader Joe’s) SoNIC STRAwBERRY LImEAdE
▶ bonus drinks
Mix Boulevard Brewing Co. Cranberry-Orange Radler with vodka and a rosemary garnish, or use in place of sour mix for a radler-rita. -Jeremy Danner, Boulevard Brewing Co.
The Rummy RadleR REcIPE couRTESy ExcEl BREWIng co. SERVES | 2 |
12-oz bottle Excel Brewing Co. Flash Bang 12-oz bottle Excel Bottling Co. Rummy grapefruit soda
| preparation | In a beer glass, pour half of beer. Top with equal amount grapefruit soda, or to taste.
Excel Brewing Co. Flash Bang
Excel Brewing Co. Lefty’s Lager
ExCEL BoTTLINg Co. mILLIoN doLLAR oRANgE SodA ExCEL BoTTLINg Co. SKI oRIgINAL SodA
-Ben Bruker, Excel Brewing Co.
Free State Brewing Co. Garden Party
fREShLY SquEEzEd LEmoNAdE
-Geoff Deman, Free State Brewing Co.
Excel Brewing Co. Flash Bang
ExCEL BoTTLINg Co. oRANgE-pINEAppLE SodA
Excel Brewing Co. East Side IPA
ExCEL BoTTLINg Co. RummY gRApEfRuIT SodA
-Brandon Nickelson, Craft Beer Cellar Clayton
BREESE, IL. Sister companies Excel Bottling Co. and Excel Brewing Co. give home bartenders the opportunity to test their skills with The Rummy Radler. The cocktail combines equal parts Rummy grapefruit soda with Flash Bang, a hoppy American wheat ale. Excel sales director Ben Bruker says the cocktail works because “The hops have citrus flavor, as does the soda, and so they marry well together.” The beer also balances out the sweet and slightly bitter notes in the soda, which Excel has been making in Breese, Illinois, since 1936. Although it would seem natural for a bottler that’s been brewing beer since 2012 to make the progression into radlers, Bruker says it’s not quite that easy. “We’ve talked about it, but the main issue is that we don’t have a pasteurizer,” he says. “When you’re adding that element of extra sugar, the worry of a yeast cell getting through and blowing caps off is always there.” Fortunately, Excel gives us the tools to make it ourselves.
cranberry - orange KANSAS CITY. As of this month, a radler will be available almost year-round from Boulevard Brewing Co. After the success of its spring and summer seasonal ginger-lemon radler over the past two years, “We wondered how a very decidedly summer beer would do in the fall,” says ambassador brewer Jeremy Danner of Boulevard’s cranberry-blood orange autumn offering. “While it very much typifies the thirst-quenching, refreshing nature of a radler, people still view it as a beer. The 4.1 percent ABV is only .3 percent lower than our unfiltered wheat.” That unfiltered wheat beer, in fact, is the base of the radler, which is made with blood orange and cranberry juice concentrates and carbonated soda water and sold in 12-ounce cans. “Radlers are an approachable style for people who don’t really like beer,” Danner says. “For me, spending all day in a brewery and thinking about beer in such a critical and technical way, it’s nice to have something where you can turn your brain off and just drink.”
THE PEOPLE ARE THIRSTY.
KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI WWW.TOMS-TOWN.COM // #THEPEOPLEARETHIRSTY // @TOMS_TOWN DRINK LIKE A BOSS. KNOW YOUR LIMIT.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops.
WRitten by Jenny VeRgaRa
photography by Christopher sMith
kansas city. the new owners of Sasha’s baking Co., Jackie Kincaid Habiger and her husband, chef ted Habiger of Room 39 and brewery emperial, recently expanded hours at the Downtown Kansas City bakery to show off sasha’s apéritif. the new bar, dessert and small-plates spot is open thursday and Friday from 4 to 10pm. at the charming after-work hangout, beverage director andrea Cody creates a new menu each week featuring five seasonal cocktails; one past drink was the Roaster’s block with Mount gay black-barrel rum, housemade turbinado sugar-coconut syrup, cold-brew coffee and pineapple. the menu includes traditional French apéritifs like Dubonnet and Lillet, as well as French-focused red, white and rosé wines, plus a few beers. Small plates are available from the chefs at Room 39 like local charcuterie, bruschetta, pâté and panzanella salad.
coma coffee roasters story and photography by MabeL suen
confetti craft co. Written by Lauren Miers
| photography by aaron ottis
COLUMBIA, MO. underneath late-night favorite gumby’s pizza, Confetti Craft Co.
began slinging drinks alongside craft projects last month in Columbia, Missouri. Choose from 25 projects, like a six-pack beer caddy or a throw pillow, as well as from a drink menu featuring bottled beer, wine and signature cocktails. owner Michelle nickerson says the unconventional spot has a nice mix of light, fresh and beautiful cocktails, plus several that focus on whiskey and bourbon. try the tabernacle Crush, a gin drink with Lillet blanc, fresh peaches, basil and a touch of lemon, or the Colorado Cooler with cherry-infused whiskey. nickerson is excited to bring this hands-on craft project and craft-drink spot to Columbia and to provide an adult-friendly evening option that’s different from the rest of the local night scene. “our goal is to give the customers something great to drink to help get their creative juices flowing,” nickerson says. 573.424.3624, confetticraftco.com 32
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RICHMOND HEIGHTS, MO. a new st. Louis-area roaster is proudly riding the third wave of coffee. Coma Coffee Roasters debuted in richmond heights, Missouri, in July, featuring single-origin beans and a variety of pastries. Coma is an amalgamation of the first two letters of co-owners Corbin and Macy holtzman’s names. to create their signature cups of caffeine, the holtzmans enlisted the talents of roastmaster Chad denney. Coma uses beans from el salvador, ethiopia and Colombia, which rotate every few weeks based on growing seasons, and are available in a few different brew methods: cold brew, espresso, drip and pour over. signature drinks include the Coma, featuring vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso. Lyfe combines pomegranate juice with a shot of espresso and is served over ice. Look for subtle flavors in each carefully crafted cup, from sweeter, floral sips to full-bodied notes of chocolate and caramel.
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ceLebRate tHe HOLIdayS at OuR
co-owner, the wandering sidecar bar co. WRITTEN By SARAh KLoEPPLE
ST. CHARLES, MO. A vintage
1960 camper rests in the backyard of Tiffany and Dave Unger’s home in St. Charles, Missouri – but it doesn’t stay idle for long. The camper, affectionately named Ruthie, houses their mobile bar service, The Wandering Sidecar Bar Co. They’ve partnered with The Vino Gallery in the Central West End and beverage-catering company Liquid Spirits to help clients plan drink menus for events and parties; the Ungers take care of the rest. Tiffany takes care of drinks while Dave works behind the scenes. The idea came to Tiffany last November after she read about a similar mobile bar service in California. Two weeks later, they found Ruthie. She was sent to Mark Bertel, an Arkansas contractor who builds tiny homes, for remodeling. By June, Ruthie was ready for the road. The Ungers have been stationed at LouFest and countless weddings, and they even drove Ruthie through the parade at PrideFest in Downtown St. Louis this summer.
Sip & Savor Menu available
Call JiMMy to reServe photography by jacklyn meyer
10701 Watson Rd. | Saint Louis, MO | twistedtreesteakhouse.com Next door to Holiday Inn St. Louis SW
PhoToGRAPhy By JACKLyN MEyER
Why start a mobile bar service? I have been bartending since I was 21. I really enjoy working with people; I like making drinks. About six years ago, I started a vintage rental company. Until I had my twin babies, it was great. They were born, and the idea of having a storefront didn’t really work for me anymore. When I read about [the mobile bar service], it kind of meshed the best of both worlds. We tried to do a palette that was appealing to more than just a wedding – I wanted it to appeal to men and women. We can do a wedding or we can do a bachelor party or a baby shower. We can do really anything. Tell us about Ruthie. When I bought her, she was gutted. The attachment my husband and I have to Ruthie is very emotional – we invested our savings and heart and soul into her. Pulling up in Arkansas and seeing her transformation from an ugly duckling to a beautiful mobile bar floored us. [Bertel] came in, and he built these custom butcher blocks; the cabinets are custom-made, as well, [with] all copper fixtures. We have all porcelain sinks. I like to grow herbs for cocktails, so that’s something we want to bring in – as many natural aspects to it as we can. How has business been so far? When we first started out, I really thought that we would just be a wedding vendor. It’s been very surprising – we’re doing block parties, corporate, nonprofit events… we’re excited we can be more involved in the community. What are you working on next? We finished Birdie, a double horse trailer and second mobile bar, last month and are renovating another unit for draft-beer service for next summer. We also built two outside bars to serve from, for those who want our bartending services without the camper or for indoor events. Dave and I still love working events ourselves, and I think we always will, but we have also hired a small staff. We absolutely love our hometown and want to be as immersed in the St. Louis community as possible.
private space for parties of 6 to 50+ guests with Menu & Drink packages
Inspired Local Food Culture
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Spiced SpiritS Story and recipe by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan gayMan
Combo No. 1 This combination is good for white rums, young bourbons, VS cognac, a heavy-peated and smoked scotch, or a reposado tequila. ½ 3 5
vanilla bean, halved (remove seeds and place in bottle as well for additional flavor) sticks cinnamon (about 3 inches in length) whole cloves
This combination is good for a lighter Scotch whiskey, a 6- to 8-year bourbon or dark, aged rums. black cardamom pods, lightly crushed whole allspice seeds Tbsp peeled and chopped fresh ginger whole star anise
Combo No. 3 This combination is good for vodka, silver tequila, white rum, rhum agricole and white whiskey. ¼ 1 1
cup dried hibiscus flowers tsp crushed Sichuan peppercorns Tbsp dried lavender flowers
Combo No. 4 This combination is good for single-malt Scotch, mezcal, reposado or añejo tequila, and VSOP cognac. ¼ 1 1
tsp saffron tsp cacao nibs whole ancho chile, chopped
It’s easy to infuse spirits with spices, which uses the same process as infusing with fresh fruits, vegetables or herbs for flavor. The process couldn’t be simpler: Remove the cap from the bottle, drop the spices in and wait. An added bonus? Spices can turn that subpar bottle of booze into a palatable potable. Flavor combinations are seemingly endless and completely subjective: There’s no right or wrong – it’s just what you like.
Procedure: Add the spices either directly into the bottle, or
spice the spirit in a separate jar. Always use glass, not plastic; Mason jars are good vessels. Cover with a lid, and allow it to sit at least three days. Taste to see how the flavors have developed – you might want to let it sit a few more days. Once the flavors are to your liking, strain the solid spices off using a fine-mesh strainer and, if needed, cheesecloth. SPiritS: I prefer using rum, tequila, mezcal, cognac and whiskey (whether bourbon, scotch or rye). These spirits have a natural flavor that pairs well with spices. On the flip side, I’ve found that spicing gin is a bit like spicing spiced rum – it’s already infused. You can spice vodka, but you’re not going to get the depth of flavor that other spirits impart.
Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars, bar manager at BC’s Kitchen, and a bar and restaurant consultant.
Combo No. 2 4 7 2 4
Leaves turning colors, the smell of campfires, an abundance of flannel shirts and the contents of my flask all signal the start of my favorite season: fall. It’s also a great time to change up the things in your liquor cabinet. Spicing spirts adds new flavors to the liquor you already have on hand.
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röbller VineyarD’S anniVerSary CuVée 2012 written by Hilary HedGeS
provenance: new Haven, Missouri pairings: Robust cheeses • Smoked ribs • Hearty stews
Röbller Vineyard’s 25th anniversary Cuvée showcases the complexity of winemaker Jerry Mueller’s grapes. it’s a blend of all estate-grown grapes – Chambourcin, norton and Petite Sirah. He aged the Chambourcin and the norton-Petite Sirah blend separately for 24 months in Missouri white oak before blending and finishing the wine in chinquapin oak for another six months. the result is a well-balanced, medium-bodied wine with aromas of blueberry and black cherry, plus notes of tobacco and spice. this complex wine is already showing great depth of flavor, but its tannin structure makes it well suited for long-term aging, as well. 573.237.3986, robllerwines.com Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.
Crown Valley brewing anD DiStilling Co.’S imPerial PumPkin SmaSh written by ryan niCkelSon
style: imperial Pumpkin Stout (10.6% abV) pairings: Ginger cookies • Pumpkin pie • Sweet desserts
october is the proper time to start enjoying the myriad styles of pumpkin beer that flood shelves around the country. one that stands above the rest for me is Crown Valley Brewing and Distilling Co.’s imperial Pumpkin Smash. the brewery starts with a base stout with wonderful dark chocolate and roasted toffee notes; the addition of pumpkin and spices adds body and depth to the beer. it goes well with hearty barbecue dishes or even as the centerpiece of a seasonal dessert: Pour it over vanilla ice cream now, and thank us later. imperial Pumpkin Smash can be found on shelves around St. louis and at the brewery’s tasting room in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. 573.756.9700, crownvalleybrewery.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop in the St. Louis area. Craft Beer Cellar is located at 8113 Maryland Ave. in Clayton, Missouri. To learn more, call 314.222.2444 or visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.
S.D. Strong DiStilling’S Pillar 136 gin written by Matt Sorrell
provenance: Parkville, Missouri (45% abV) try it: as the base for a refreshing gin and tonic.
sdstrongdistilling.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.
kC Stl q&a
jeffrey “stretch” rumaner owner and chief executive officer, grinders world galactic headquarters written by Pete dulin
leavenWorth, ks. kansas
City artist and sculptor Jeffrey “Stretch” rumaner first opened Grinders, a Crossroads arts district spot that fused food, music and art in a gritty, clublike environment, in 2004. He later opened Grinders west next door, with a focus on soups, salads and deli sandwiches, and Grinders Stonewall in lenexa, kansas. in october 2015, rumaner turned High noon Saloon & brewery, a 25-year-old restaurant and brewery in leavenworth, kansas, into his latest outpost, Grinders High Noon. this fall, the restaurant will begin brewing its own beer, which will be available at all Grinders locations and, eventually, at other restaurants in the area. What enticed you to take over High Noon’s restaurant and brewery? High noon was a cool place with great bones that was close to the [Fort leavenworth] army base. i wanted to bring good food and beer to the outer cities. we draw people from kansas City; weston, Missouri; abilene, kansas; and west of the city. we’re not biased. we love everyone. Is Grinders High Noon primarily a pub or a brewery? Grinders High noon is a restaurant first, but we’re not just a place to put food in your belly. beer and music are ancillary to help create a dining experience. we have 35 taps between the main bar and the two bars in the event areas. we’ll have three Grinders beers on tap and maybe a rotating fourth. What styles of beer will Grinders brew? i like different styles of beer, especially Pilsner, so we’ll have that on tap. we own the beer recipes from High noon, so we could make those. we’ll have seasonal beers like shandies and radlers in the summer. Most will be drinkable beers, but we’ll get into stouts and higher-alcohol beer, too. we don’t have to follow any rules; we don’t have to rely on making beer for income, so we can do what we want – barrel-aging, cask-aging, sours – and give it our own twist. How does Grinders curate its extensive beer list? there are many cicerones on staff and in management, and they put the lists together based on their years of experience – there are different beers on the menu at each location. we include seasonal and edgy beers, plus beer from all over the world. other places come to Grinders to see what’s on our taps. we [also] do a “beerology” class, led by a brewer, to educate the public about different styles of beer and how beer is made. it’s like a basic cicerone class – you learn about the science behind beer. Tell us about Taste Beerings, your beer-pairing dinners. taste beerings are not about our chefs doing food from our menu. we bring in local and celebrity chefs to prepare food paired with beer. Chefs who have done taste beerings include alex Pope of local Pig, Celina tio of the belfry and Julian, aarón Sánchez [of Food network and Cooking Channel], Howard Hanna of the rieger and Jennifer Maloney of Café Sebastienne [at the kemper Museum of Contemporary art]. we do a pairing once a month at each location, such as pairing kona brewing Co.’s beers with Hawaiian-themed pork dishes. What’s next for Grinders? i get calls about franchising at least once a month. People like our concept: pizza, beer, music and art with an american, home-cooked flavor. there’s something for everyone, and our food is 98 percent housemade. i’m looking at completing franchising deals in cities within a four-hour radius of kansas City by year-end. i want one person who can open three to five locations within five years in cities like Manhattan, kansas; omaha and lincoln, nebraska; St. louis; and oklahoma City and tulsa, oklahoma. i’ve already bought the building next to Grinders High noon [to expand brewing operations]. the High noon brewery will handle our restaurants in the area. we might open a brewery in another city versus shipping our beer – i want to keep the brewery at a smaller level.
PHotoGraPHy by CHriStoPHer SMitH
S.D. Strong Distilling spirits are distilled in a cave 65 feet or so underground, where the temperature is naturally consistent. the company’s Pillar 136 Gin is made down there, along with a rye whiskey (available only at the distillery), a vodka and a soon-to-be-released bourbon. the gin is bright and citrus-forward – all of the citrus is zested by hand – and contains a total of 10 botanicals that are vapor-infused into the spirit. the higher proof makes this gin stand up and stand out in a variety of cocktails.
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on the shelf : october picks
931.651.1000, facebook.com/grindershighnoon Inspired Local Food Culture
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savor fall’s flavor visit missouri wine country
chandler hill vineyards Tuscan Charm and Winning Wines The stunning 42 acres of Chandler Hill Vineyards – just 30 minutes west of St. Louis – offer award-winning wines, an onsite organic garden, sophisticated fare and exemplary service. Its hilltop tasting room also boasts a 4,500-square-foot terrace with serene, panoramic views. Located in Defiance (the heart of Missouri wine country), the Tuscaninspired Chandler Hill is open year-round. Private tours are available and showcase the history of the property and the winery. Guests can also learn about Chandler Hill’s vineyard practices and the wine-making process. Stop by to enjoy incredible wines and an unforgettable
experience at one of the most exquisite wineries in the region. 596 Defiance Road, Defiance, Missouri, 636.798.2675, chandlerhillvineyards.com
balducci vineyards timing is everything at balducci vineyards St. Louis natives Carol and Rick Balducci moved to Augusta, Missouri, in 1987 and opened their award-winning Balducci Vineyards in 2001. In the ensuing 15 years, Balducci’s small-production wines have earned a reputation for their distinct varietal character and flavor, including Mia Bella, a white wine; a barrel-fermented and sur lie-aged dry Vignoles; and its whole clusterfermented Chambourcin. The winery’s breadth of offerings range from dry to sweet and red to white, as well as post-dinner fortified sippers including port and its Time Signature fortified with brandy. The Balducci’s 26-year-old son Nic is ushering in the next chapter in the winery’s success story: He’s now winemaker for Balducci Vineyards. Nic uses grapes from the winery’s on-site vineyard to make fine wines full of flavor and character. Grapes are harvested at peak time, leading to consistent bottlings every season. As the family says, this approach leads to harvesting grapes “at exactly the right
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moment to give each bottle of wine the best, deepest flavor.” Harvest is also a beloved tradition in the Balducci family. With 20 years of winemaking experience and 40 years of restaurant experience, a trip out to Augusta should be a full-day excursion. The family-friendly tasting room features a full kitchen serving specialties ranging from a light baked Brie appetizer to 10-inch pan pizzas. Sip a few awardwinning wines while listening to live music on the weekends – either from the shade of a covered barn or outside on sunny picnic tables. Plus, the historic and rustic farm setting is a picturesque backdrop for private events or just enjoying the verdant views of wooded hillsides and rolling meadows in gorgeous Augusta. 6601 Highway 94 S, Augusta, Missouri, 636.482.8466, balduccivineyards.com
vox vineyards robller vineyard 25 years of family grape growing Nurturing missouri’s native grapes A little over an hour from Downtown, Röbller Vineyard in New Haven, Missouri, is worth the drive for its scenic views alone, not to mention its roster of excellent wine. The estate covers 85 acres overlooking pastoral hillsides, where founders Robert and Lois Mueller and their son, winemaker Jerry Mueller, use the well-proven techniques of accomplished European grape growers and winemakers to produce European-style wines. The grapes growing in Röbller’s rich soils and gentle slopes are a mix of French-American hybrids including Chambourcin, St. Vincent and Vidal Blanc, as well as Norton and some Vitis vinifera, which are grapevines of European origin. The winery’s tasting room is open yearround and offers a full range of wines, from dry to sweet and red to white. Its attentive staff share details about how
the different grapes are grown and how the varietals are produced using its timetested methods.
Above the Missouri River valley, rolling windswept bluffs made of silty soil are ideal for growing warm-weather crops – like grapes – and are an anomaly that Kansas City’s Vox Vineyards has taken full advantage of since opening in 2012. “Dedicated to raising awareness of the heritage and potential of North America’s native grapes,” according to its website, the winery grows American Heritage Grapes full of unfounded flavors expertly and delicately harvested by owner and founder Jerry Eisterhold, who grew up among Missouri farmland. The winery currently cultivates more than 40 native varieties on its 88-acre property, which are bottled under the Terra Vox label. Standouts
include Lenoir, also known as Black Spanish, a full-bodied red wine with a rich, brambly flavor and bright acidity, and Cloeta, a rich red wine with soft tannins and an aroma of plum, chocolate and coffee. The vineyard is available for tastings and tours by appointment, and a separate tasting room inWeston, Missouri, is open to the public with no appointment necessary.Vox will hostThe Farmhouse chef-owner Michael Foust for a multicourse wine dinner on October 15. 19310 NW Farley Hampton Road #3, Kansas City, MO 64153 1099 Welt St., Weston, MO 64098 816.354.4903, voxvineyards.com
The family-owned winery celebrated its 25th anniversary this year. First earning the Governor’s Cup in 1993 for its 1991 Norton, the winery is sure to continue to accrue awards at state and national competitions and produce excellent glasses of wine in the next 25 years. 275 Röbller Vineyard Road New Haven, MO 63068 573.237.3986, robllerwines.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
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montelle winery Harvesting Excellence in Missouri’s Hills
Despite the challenges the Missouri climate presents to grape growing – including fluctuating humidity and summer rains – winemaker Tony Kooyumjian has been producing award-winning wines at Montelle Winery for decades in Augusta, Missouri. Established in 1970, the vineyards are the secret to the winery’s success and date back to the 1800s. In 1980, Augusta was recognized as the first U.S. American Viticultural Area (AVA) for its unique soil, climate, historical significance and the quality of wines produced from its grapes.
325 S Main St, Saint CharleS, MO 63301 www.bellavinOwinebarStl.COM (636) 724-3434
Date Night, Done Right Enjoy award-winning wines, fine dining and live entertainment all while taking in the Best View in the Midwest
Sip fresh, focused flavors in a variety of Montelle’s wines – two standouts are its Reserve Barrel Fermented Chardonel, this dry white wine has a bouquet of apple, pear, and fig followed by lush flavors of apple, citrus fruit, toasty oak, fresh baked bread, and hints of butterscotch. Then there’s the Reserve Norton, which is selected from the best barrels of Montelle’s exemplary regular Norton and aged an additional six
months. The result is a rich body, long finish and bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, cassis, elderberry and dark chocolate. Today, Montelle Winery is family-owned and -operated. Tony is joined by his son Tom in his mission to produce wines that exemplify the uniqueness of its vineyards. They’re motivated to produce the best wines possible that are pure expressions of the grapes grown in their vineyards. Sitting 400 feet above the Missouri River Valley, the tasting room is open year-round. Montelle’s philosophy is that there’s nothing better to show off good wine than good food, and its Klondike Café offers fresh, high-quality cuisine to complement its wines. The approach is more than just cheese and meat boards, too: think items like orchard apple and grilled chicken salad (paired with Montelle’s River Country White) roast beefGorgonzola “Black-n-Bleu” wrap (paired with Norton) or sandwiches like The Klondike with smoked ham and turkey, Genoa salami, Swiss cheese, tomato, red onion and Dijon (paired with River Country Red). Plus, pizza and flatbread come in offerings like bourbon barbecue chicken or the Tuscan with roasted garlic butter, mozzarella, Asiago, asparagus, roasted red peppers, shaved prosciutto ham and caramelized onions. Around this time of year, Tony heads to the vineyard to check the grapes’ sugar levels, acidity and pH balance, and the harvest usually begins between mid-August and midNovember. Enjoy the fruit of his labors by sipping any of the wines on offer at Montelle, as each is a unique, well-made wine that pairs well with local foods and always leaves you wanting another glass. 201 Montelle Drive, Augusta, Missouri, 888.595.9463, montelle.com
600 Timber Ridge Dr, Grafton, IL 62037 | aeriesview.com 38
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edg-clif farms & Vineyard
a labor of love at edg-clif farms & Vineyard Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard is a small familyrun winery and brewery located in Potosi, Missouri, that was created out of love for the land. Visiting Edg-Clif is not only a treat for the eyes with its beautiful country setting, but also for the palate with its award-winning Chambourcin, Vignoles and Vidal Blanc wines. This third generation family farm has been gently refurbished to make it a comfortable-yet-vibrant venue for wine tasting, weddings, field-to-table dinners and family reunions.
while they sip the handcrafted wines and beers. If you are seeking to visit a picturesque farm this fall, Edg-Clif is one of the finest country destinations in the area. Experience Autumn at Edg-Clif. 10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, Missouri, 573.438.4741, edg-clif.com
Live Music Every Weekend Wine Tasting Lunch Served Daily Private Events and Weddings Breathtaking Views
There’s something for all wine-lovers at Edg-Clif and tastings allow guests to try a full range of wines. The list includes anything from a dry rosé to French oak-aged Chambourcin to the gold medal-winning sweet Twilight. Edg-Clif is sometimes referred to as the “house of Chambourcin” because of the eight different wines made from that particular French-American hybrid. Edg-Clif also brews its own craft beers under Edg-Clif Brewing Co. The everchanging lineup includes a house favorite cream ale, as well as a smoky pecan ale, hazelnut brown ale, oatmeal cream stout and the seasonal vanilla porter.
100 hemsath rd. augusta mo open daily 11a-5p noboleisvineyards.com 636.482.4500
Guests are encouraged to bring a picnic and relax in large rocking chairs or to enjoy a stroll in the many gardens and vineyards
Try Different Biscotti With Different Wines A Perfect Compliment
W I N E R Y
martin brothers winery photography by jacklyn meyer
lake creek winery Enjoy fine wines, restaurant dining and picturesque views from a restored 1860s farmhouse located on the river bluffs near Marthasville, Missouri. 15088 Boone Monument Road, Marthasville, MO 63357 636.242.2036, lakecreekwinery.com
You haven’t had honey like this before! Come visit the Martin Brothers and sample internationally awarded Mead (Honey Wine). 1623 Old Iron Road, Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.0236, missourimead.com
Come for the Wine. Experience the Ambiance. Return for the Friendships. Wild Sun Winery…where the outside world ends and serenity begins.
• Grandma’s Almond • Chocolate Cayenne • Snickerdoodle • Anise • Chocolate/Chocolate Chip • Bacon Chocolate Chip • Cherry Chocolate • Pumpkin • Cranberry/Orange
4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, MO 63050 636-797-8686 | www.wildsunwinery.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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sun winery edgewildRestaurant wild Serenity and Scenic Views at Wild Sun Winery & Winery Affordable Fine Wine Paired With Inventive American Cuisine EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery doesn’t grow grapes on its property in Chesterfield, Missouri, but a winery does operate onsite. Husband-and-wife owners Andy Kohn and Dee Dee Kohn, a certified sommelier
and certified specialist of wine, source unfinished wine from several West Coast wineries to age in custom-made French and Missouri oak barrels stationed around the handsome dining area, producing more than 2,000 bottles of wine. The cellar list is a carefully crafted selection of both domestic and international fine wines from high-end winemakers. Several EdgeWild house labels are available by the glass, such as the 2012 rosé made with Pinot Noir grapes and a 2013 Viognier made with grapes from California’s Russian River Valley. Take advantage of EdgeWild’s enclosed patio, which is open year-round and features a beautiful fire pit. Executive chef Aaron Baggett is a St. Louis native who was classically trained in New York, and his menu is a mix of traditional American favorites and elevated classics, including seasonal wild mushroom and Brie soup. Don’t miss the “full-bodied entrées” including bison meatloaf or the wild catch of the day. EdgeWild has a sister restaurant, EdgeWild Bistro & Tap, in Creve Coeur. 550ChesterfieldCenter,Chesterfield,Missouri, 636.532.0550,edgewildwinery.com
Sometimes you just need a change of scenery, and the two men behind Wild Sun Winery believe the atmosphere at their winery might be exactly what you need. Co-owner and president Edward Wagner worked in marketing and sales at AnheuserBusch for 17 years before embarking on his
decades-old dream to open a winery and microbrewery. Co-owner, vice president and winemaker Mark Baehmann spent 33 years making wine at some of the state’s top wineries including Chaumette Vineyards & Winery, Montelle Winery and Mount Pleasant Winery, with the intention of eventually opening his own winery, as well.
Wild Sun is a charming winery in Hillsboro, Missouri – just a short drive from St. Louis – and features a country estate for clearing your mind and relaxing with family, friends and, of course, enjoying a variety of wines. Of its 10 or so red and white offerings, the two best-sellers are Radiance – a dry white Chardonel and Vidal Blanc blend aged in stainless steel tanks – and Ravage, a dry red blend of predominately Chambourcin that’s an everyday, go-to wine that complements many different foods. A limited food menu is available including pizza, baked breads, cheeses, sausage and desserts. Picnic baskets are also allowed. Plus live music Friday nights, Saturdays, and Sundays through October will jazz up the end of a fun day spent in Missouri countryside.
Wild Sun celebrated its one-year anniversary in September, and if the progress of the past year is any indication, there is much more in store for the winery. 4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, Missouri, 636.797.8686, wildsunwinery.com
Noboleis vineyards Great Vino and Views
In Augusta, Missouri, on a hilltop overlooking surrounding rows of grapevines, lies Noboleis Vineyards, founded in 2005 and opened in 2010. The four grape varieties initially planted include Chambourcin, Traminette, Norton and Vignoles. The 84-acre winery – with its idyllic old Mulberry tree that’s become the logo on its labels – now offers 23 wines ranging from dry, full-bodied reds to light, sweet whites to satisfy any palate. Standouts include its Noble Ice Wine and a white port called Vino Dulce. Its 2014 Norton also recently won the C.V. Riley Award for Best Norton at this year’s Missouri Wine Competition. With aromas of cherry, nutmeg and dark chocolate, the 2014 Norton includes flavors of black currant and plum for a complex peppery layered profile. Long oak-aging gives it a smooth, soft finish. Noboleis also boasts a tasting room open year-round, serving appetizers (such as Bavarian pretzels and pita and hummus) and signature pizzas for lunch. The tasting room carries every wine in Noboleis’ portfolio, while local wine shops,
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restaurants and select grocery stores across the region offer varying Noboleis selections. The winery also hosts wedding ceremonies and receptions with breathtaking views as well as catering and tiered bar options available upon request. Otherwise, guests can enjoy those magnificent views on the patio, as Noboleis is open daily with live music every weekend from May to October. Whether you’re looking for a wine tasting or simply a place to relax with a glass of vino, Noboleis is the perfect spot. 100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, Missouri, 636.482.4500, noboleisvineyards.com
augusta winery Augusta Winery’s Small-Batch Wines Win Big Founded in 1988 by owner and winemaker Tony Kooyumjian, Augusta Winery produces award-winning wines and is located in historic Augusta, Missouri, 45 minutes from St. Louis. Only eight years earlier, Augusta was recognized as the first U.S. American Viticultural Area (AVA) for its unique soil, climate, historical significance and quality of wines produced from its grapes, which is apparent when you stop by for wine tastings and live music at its yearround tasting room. Kooyumjian set out to produce the highest-quality wine possible to best represent the terroir of the Augusta AVA, and the result is Augusta Winery’s offerings that range from dry dinner wines to sweet dessert wines utilizing grape varieties such as Vidal Blanc, Chardonel, Seyval Blanc, Vignoles, Chambourcin and Norton. The wine has garnered national acclaim and won numerous awards, including multiple gold medals at this year’s international Pacific Rim Wine Competition in Southern California. The wine is produced in small
quantities to ensure the grape is handled with special care to be enjoyed by those who travel from across the state and country to relax and at the getaway. Augusta Winery features a tasting room, gift shop, dining and drinking options like cheese-and-sausage platters and local craft brews, a covered terrace and a 10-foot open-air, grapevine-covered arbor with live music through the end of the month. The area is ripe with other local attractions and scenic views, including the sight 400 feet above the Missouri River Valley that can be experienced at Augusta’s sister winery, Montelle Winery. Both are “true to the terroir” of Missouri’s rich and celebrated soil, and the wines at Augusta should be enjoyed to fullest, with the same fervor and pride with which they were grown. 5601 High St., Augusta, MO 63332 888.667.9463, augustawinery.com
celebrating 25 years music every weekend
1 pm - 5 pm
Featuring our 25th Anniversary Reserve Wines $15 per person for Reserve tastings
275 Robller Vineyard Rd. | New Haven, MO 63068 www.robllerwines.com | 573.237.3986 Groups and busses are always welcome.
aerie’s winery Autumn Adventure awaits at grafton resort When the leaves begin to change colors this month, there are many ways to spend a weekend day or evening within just an hour or so of St. Louis. One option along the Great River Road is Aeries Winery, with one of the area’s best views high atop the bluffs in Grafton, Illinois. Driving up the steep path the winery, you’ll pass by many of the amenities that comprise Aerie’s Resort, which encompasses the winery. Lodging options include suites and cottages, a 300-person terraced event space and a treetop zip line that offers a bird’s-eye view of the hills.
Friday, Saturday and Sunday through November. You might even catch an eagle flying over the bluffs that sit 250 feet above flood level. Whether you’re stopping in for a leisurely lunch before you continue your journey along the Great River Road or soaking up the scenery all afternoon, Aerie’s Winery is a worthwhile destination. 800 Timber Ridge Drive, Grafton, IL 62037 618.786.7477, aeriesview.com
r e l a x Beautiful Views, Spacious Grounds r e c h a r g e Live Music, Bocce Ball r e f u e l Handcrafted Wines, Select Beer, Great Food r e s e r v e Weddings, Rehearsals, Private Events
celebrating 15 years!
6601 highway 94 south • augusta, missouri 63332 636.482.8466 • www.balduccivineyards.com
For a more grounded approach, the winery is the perfect spot to snack on delicious appetizers, sandwiches and wood-fired flatbreads. Try a small plates selection, like “fireball” dip with cream cheese, sweet pickled jalapeños and pecans; a roasted squash and chorizo, blackened duck over wilted greens; or steamed Baja mussels. As for wine, its Aerie’s Private Label series is produced in conjunction with several award-winning wineries in offerings including Vidal Blanc, Chambourcin, a semisweet white Adlerschreier or the dry red Confluence Conundrum. Out on the expansive wraparound deck, there is plenty of seating for sipping wine while listening to the live music every
wine tasting • vineyard tour • special events • craft beers Potosi, MO • www.edg-clif.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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share your fun by using #westportstl BACKSTREET JAZZ & BLUes club • BRadford’s pub • Dino’s Deli Drunken Fish • FAMILY NUTS • Funny bone comedy club Gateway Newstands • IMO’s pizza • Jive & Wail • Kobe japanese steakhouse Mcdonalds • Playhouse @ Westport Plaza • STARBUCKS Sheratons at westport • St. Louis bread company Intersection of 1-270 and Page Avenue • St. Louis, MO 63146 314.576.7100 • westportstl.com
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return of the mac
Acclaimed pastry chef Nathaniel Reid debuts his long-awaited bakery (including candy-colored macarons) in Kirkwood, Missouri, on p. 48. photography by mabel suen
hand & land
WriTTen by Jenny Vergara
phoTography by anna peTroW
LeAWooD, Ks. The owners of Hand & Land, cousins Jessica moler and nicole
lobdell, share an interest in making and selling products for your home, body and health that are made with all-natural ingredients. They carefully curate the items for their small storefront with a big mission in park place in leawood, Kansas, making sure items are free of chemicals and toxins. inside, you’ll find organic beauty products, natural skin and hair care, botanical fragrances, jewelry, and baby and home products. Shop hand & land’s small selection of home and
culinary items that are beautiful and built to last. pick up all-natural wood cutting boards, trivets, rolling pins, potholders made from recycled denim, reusable lunch bags and salad bowls with colorful bottoms for gripping the countertop while in use, or add some spice to your cooking with selections from local favorites Kansas city canning co. and Wood + Salt. 913.491.6950, handandland.com
lodge manufacturing co. cast-iron dutch ovens
camp chef dutch oven tripod
With a Dutch oven, you can skip the hot dogs grilled on a skewer and cook hearty meals at your campsite instead. Surround the oven with hot coals to bake peach cobbler or potato casserole in the great outdoors, or place the oven over a single-burner gas fryer to fry up some cornmeal-breaded trout. (Turn to p. 82 for recipe.) Lodge Manufacturing Co., which has been forging cast-iron pots and skillets since 1896, offers cast-iron Dutch ovens in 2-, 4-, 5-, 7- and 9-quart sizes that are also oven and broiler safe and work on any type of cooktop, including induction.
a Dutch oven is important for serious campfire cooking, but it’s a Dutch-oven tripod that allows you to effortlessly cook over an open flame. Whether you want to make skillet cornbread to go with the day’s catch or biscuits and gravy ready to serve before campers emerge from their tents in the morning, a tripod will come in handy. (Turn to p. 80 for these recipes.) The 50-inch-tall Camp Chef tripod is easy to pack with your camping gear and comes with an iron chain attachment and storage bag.
WriTTen by nancy STileS
To learn more or to purchase the Dutch oven, visit lodgemfg.com. phoTography courTeSy loDge manufacTuring co.
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WriTTen by nancy STileS
To learn more or to purchase the tripod, visit campchef.com. phoTography courTeSy camp chef
ity C s a s Kan f o t Bes e h ce t n e i r e p x E
Where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean, Punta Cana is known best for its endless stretches of white sand beaches, worldclass golf and vast array of all-inclusive resorts. Punta Cana is often referred to as the Coconut Coast. No resort in Punta Cana is higher than the highest palm tree, and there is no shortage of palms on the 40 miles of white sand beaches. But Punta Cana is far more than an incredible beach destination. ������ ��� ����� ������������ �������� ����������� ����� ��� many amazing golf courses. Be sure to visit nearby Cap Cana, featuring the Caribbean’s largest inland yacht marina and world-class golf. The highway now puts tourists less than an hour away from the attractions of La Romana. Apple Vacations is the World’s #1 Vacation Company to Punta Cana, and with good reason! Since its tourism beginnings, millions of travelers have chosen Apple Vacations to this incredible destination. Enjoy Apple Exclusive Non-stop Vacation Flights twice weekly from St. Louis to Punta Cana.
Historic Landmark Hotel & Iconic Country Club Plaza
For the ultimate upscale dining experience, make advance reservations at Passion By Martin Berasategui at the Paradisus Palma Real.
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Contact your travel agent today! 325 Ward Parkway I Country Club Plaza I 816.756.3800 I raphaelkc.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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Buck, Buck, Moose
n eo o
Written By liz Miller
faronda davis owner, sweet buds kitchen Written By Sarah Kloepple
CHeSTeRFIeLD, Mo. When Faronda davis of aBc
chefs cooking academy started teaching cooking-enrichment classes at parkway and rockwood district schools in 2005, she never imagined it would catch on so quickly. now, more than 10 years later, davis is rebranding her successful children’s cooking classes by adding new recipes, expanding adult classes and focusing more on cupcakes in the form of Sweet Buds Kitchen. at her shop in chesterfield, Missouri, patrons will find classic cupcakes such as double chocolate and its best-selling birthday cake flavors, plus specialty creations like maple-bacon, as well as pour-over and French-pressed coffee. along with the cupcakes, which are supplied by a small local bakery, Sweet Buds Kitchen offers children’s cooking classes, birthday parties and summer camps as well as adult cooking classes and events. davis, a self-taught chef and baker, is working on even more projects – including two cookbooks – after one of her busiest summers. How did you teach yourself to cook? one of the first things i learned to cook was from a box. i was learning how to cook, and i made lasagna – box pasta and jar sauce. i really enjoyed making it, and everybody loved it, so i stuck to pasta because it was such a crowd-pleaser. Baking took me a lot longer to master. learning measurements and just the patience of waiting for a dish to completely bake were issues for me in the beginning. What are your favorite cupcakes at Sweet Buds? My favorite are red velvet and carrot cake. i am a Southern belle, and they remind me the most of my Florida home. We have different cupcakes every thursday through Saturday, so sometimes i fall in love with a new cupcake flavor each week, and we keep it on the menu. Why do you think cooking is a good activity for children? it’s an invaluable skill. We teach kids more than just cooking: We teach 46
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photography courteSy SWeet BudS Kitchen
them how to be safe in the kitchen, from using stoves and setting temps to knife skills, so they will be safe even at home. We [also] think it’s important for kids to be exposed early to trying new foods. it leads to exposure and creativity in other areas, as well. a lot of kids who cook with us have severe allergies, [so] they get to make their foods from scratch and see that there are so many different foods for them to eat, instead of focusing on what they can’t eat all the time. this summer we had a little chef who wasn’t able to eat anything with skin (veggies, fruit, nuts, etc.). She was able to cook all week and was able to eat everything we made. her parents were so thankful because it’s normally a problem for her to attend camps. Tell us about your daughter, Ayla, and her stint on MasterChef Junior. ayla being on MasterChef Junior was such a great experience. the moment we saw that there was a cooking show on tV for kids, my husband, Steven, and i knew for sure ayla would be on it. She did great in all the auditions, mainly because she has been cooking with us since she was 6. She was the only one on the show who did not burn or cut herself because she had more kitchen hours than any of the other kids. What’s next for Sweet Buds? We have extensive experience cooking with kids, and we wanted to combine our years of experience into an easy-to-read cookbook for families and kids, which will be available in november. the other cookbook, focused on healthy and vegan recipes for kids and families, will be out next month, too. We’re also hosting a free mixer event this month for adults, with food, drinks and live music, to show that we’re not just for kids and to show more people what we do. We’re striving to be a bigger part of the St. louis culinary scene; Sweet Buds has a lot of great things to bring to the table. 636.543.8650, sweetbudskitchen.com
last month, author, angler and hunter hank Shaw released his third cookbook, Buck, Buck, Moose, a follow-up to his 2013 release, Duck, Duck, Goose, which focused on how to cook waterfowl. this time, Shaw turns his attention to antlered animals including deer, elk, antelope and moose. the book is divided into two parts: the first is informational, with a comprehensive guide to skinning, gutting, hanging, aging, butchering and storing game meat at home. the second part is considerably lengthier, featuring more than 100 recipes organized by cuts and dishes. there is also a section detailing how to cook “the wobbly bits” such as heart, liver and kidneys. the recipes range from internationally inspired – think venison bulgogi and Vietnamese pho – to traditional, including chili and steak. Shaw describes the book as “not your father’s venison cookbook,” and unless your dad is a pro at making venison potstickers, you’ll likely agree. By Hank Shaw honest-food.net
MeeT THe AuTHoR Don’t miss Hank Shaw on his fall and winter book tour in support of Buck, Buck, Moose. He’ll be hosting a book dinner at Celebrations Restaurant and Bar in Cape Girardeau, Missouri, on Dec. 10, in St. Louis at a to-be-determined venue on Dec. 11, and presenting a lecture and book signing at the Anita B. Gorman Conservation Discovery Center in Kansas City on Dec. 12.
COME IN AND TRY OUR NEW COCKTAILS Painkiller; A Strong drink, Ginger Black Rum, Coconut milk, OJ, Pineapple, Fresh lime. Grape Crush; Grape Vodka, Blue Curacao, Peach Schnapps, Cranberry, Sprite. Blood and Sand; Cutty Shark Whisky, OJ, Grenadine. $3 Appetizers During Happy Hours From 4pm - 6 pm. 3155 South Grand | St. Louis, MO. 63118 | 314.771.1777 | www.kingandistl.com
Gallagher© s Restaurant Serving the best fried chicken, house-ground burgers and premium steaks for over a decade! • 2016 Voted #1 BEST BURGER - by St. Louis Magazine Readers • 2016 Ian Froeb's Selected STL Top 100 Restaurant in St. Louis • 2015 & 2016 Voted #1 BEST FRIED CHICKEN by St. Louis Post-Dispatch & RFT Readers 114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com
Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery You are invited to attend an ª After Partyº in honor of the late billionaire, Seymour Butz. Minnie Butz, his widow, has invited his family and friends to the Bissell Mansion to help CSI Gristle recreate the crime scene. Will the evidence show the killer to be Jim Shorts, the health club employee, or Eggfoo Young, the cook at his favorite restaurant or was it his lawyer, Sue MeDry? Follow CSI Gristle as he questions the guests, gathers DNA samples and swabs for laughs, all while you enjoy a 4-course meal to Die for! Who knows? The killer might even be YOU! Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this ad in for $10 off per person Valid through October 2016. Not valid for groups.
Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre
4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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nathaniel reid bakery Story and photoGraphy by Mabel SUen
KIRKWOOD, MO. nathaniel reid’s amber tart is a sight to behold. the
glistening caramel-glazed and gold leaf-topped domes sit proudly atop buttery foundations of sablé Breton. Filled with luscious caramel mousse and garnished with caramelized pecans, the regal dessert is one of many eye-catching pastries guests will find at Nathaniel Reid Bakery. the award-winning, internationally recognized pastry chef developed a full menu of both sweet and savory offerings for his first-ever bakeshop that opened in august in Kirkwood, Missouri, which he co-owns with his wife and fellow pastry chef, lee lee. the quick-service counter offers pastries, cookies, elegant special-occasion cakes, coffee, quiche and lunchtime salads. the menu reflects reid’s extensive travels, and all are prepared with the utmost care, expertise and attention to the finer details. patrons will find almond-chocolate croissants alongside regular selections such as colorful macarons, housemade chocolate bars and fruit-filled danishes. additional grab-and-go items include pound cakes, fruit jams and crispy chocolate pearls. plenty of savory options abound, as well, including cheesy croissants and even sandwiches served on bread made in house. nathaniel’s take on a popular parisian snack, for instance, features prosciutto, Gruyère and cornichons on a buttered baguette made with prefermented starter for a more flavorful bread. “we want to share our experience and the artistry of what we do,” reid says. “it’s the personalization. i’m so passionate about making this a neighborhood bakery and focusing on freshness and quality – i can only guarantee that by making everything in house. i want to do it the right way, without shortcuts.” 314.858.1019, chefnathanielreid.com
artisan products born with seoul korean gochujang written by Sarah Kloepple
PRAIRIE VILLAGE, KS. when
husband-and-wife team angela hong and nick Crofoot couldn’t find gochujang anywhere in the Kansas City area, they decided to do something about it. they started to make and bottle their own, launching Born With Seoul last summer. Gochujang is a thick paste made from red peppers and fermented soybeans and is often used as a sauce or marinade in Korean cuisine. born with Seoul’s two flavors are original Sesame, made with garlic, miso and sesame oil, and the milder Sweet & tangy. Use the former to make a brine for smoked salmon, or mix the latter with rice vinegar and red pepper flakes for a vinaigrette salad dressing. you can even add it to your bloody Mary for a funky kick. purchase online or in retail stores across the Kansas City area. 816.674.3207, bornwithseoul.com photoGraphy CoUrteSy born with SeoUl
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made fare co. granola crackle written by bethany ChriSto
ST. LOUIS. owner Kylie roth’s small-batch artisan granola
“crackle” is a middle ground between the oat-nut clusters and on-the-go bars. Founded in May 2016, Made Fare Co. uses heirloom grain and is available in six flavors: lemon-blueberry, black pepper-fig, orange-cocoa nib, gingersnap, rosemary and its newest, cherry-pomegranate. “we like to say it’s ‘granola for grown-ups,’” roth says. She recommends the company’s black pepper-fig granola over a goat cheese-kale salad with balsamic dressing. Made Fare granola is currently sold online and in the St. louis area at the tower Grove Farmers’ Market (every other week), local harvest Grocery and Union Studio. madefare.com photoGraphy by JaSon Koebel
now open all day sundays!
serving brunch at 10am
FARM TO YOU MARKET
gROCERY DELi CAFÉ
2620 S Glenstone Ave, Springfield, MO 65804 (417) 864-6994 farmersgastropub.com
YOUR SOURCE FOR THE FINEST
• Maine Lobsters • Jumbo Lump Crabmeat • Dry-Packed Scallops • Jumbo Shrimp • Smoked Salmon • Wide Selection of Oysters & Fish
8660 OLIVE IN U CITY
FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978! bobsseafoodstl.com
Featuring Locally and Regionally Produced Agricultural Products Direct from the producers! This months Farmer and Chef series Oct 11th - Vista Ramen Oct 25th - mud hOuse Visit our website for more information
NOw SERviNg BREAKFAST ON SAT. & SUN. OpEN M-SAT 8AM-7pM, SUN 9:30AM-4pM
5025 Old Hwy 100, Washington Mo 1-84-GOT-BACON FarmToYouMarket.com
come visit us ng i eew sum r B g tcha
on the hill
newly relocated brewery new tasting room
1601 Sublette Ave | St Louis, MO 63110
opens early fall
2 Annual Scott Knopfel nd
Memorial Dine-Out TuesDay, NovEmber 15, 2016 Dine out on November 15 and fund scholarships for area restaurant and hotel employees. The 2015 Scott Knopfel Memorial Dine-Out was a terrific success. Scholarships were awarded to nine (9) students in amounts up to $7,000 each. Help fund even more scholarships in 2016. Participating restaurants will make a donation based on the day’s sales. Help local restaurant and hotel employees with the cost of their education while dining out with family and friends. Scott Knopfel was a lifelong St. Louisan who touched many lives during his career in the restaurant and hotel industries. He died tragically in January of 2015.
More information and participating restaurants: MoRestaurants.org/scott-knopfel and MRA—314-576-2777 Inspired Local Food Culture
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Pride Distilled. Till Vodka is proudly crafted from famous Kansas wheat. The result is a uniquely smooth, premium vodka
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brought to life by some of the hardest working people around – but that part comes naturally to us. Because here
in the heartland, you don’t just get handed people’s respect or their loyalty. You earn it every day.
@TILLVODKA | TILLVODKA.COM | #PRIDEDISTILLED
Be proud of your legacy. Enjoy responsibly. American Wheat Vodka • 40% ALC by VOL • Till Distilling Company, Atchison, Kansas
Inspired Local Food Culture
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Take your appliances for a visual test-drive. See every Sub-Zero and Wolf product in its natural environment at The Living Kitchen. Jump-start your plans for a new kitchen. Get hands-on with the complete line of Sub-Zero and Wolf products as you move from one full-scale kitchen vignette to the next. Once youâ€™ve been inspired by all that your new kitchen can be, our specialists will help you turn your dreams into a reality.
11610 Page Service Drive St. Louis, MO 63146 314-373-2000
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1694 Larkin Williams Road Fenton, MO 63026 636-349-4946
Additional Location: 1660 Bryan Road | Oâ€™Fallon, MO 63368 | 636-244-3844
whatâ€™s up, home skillet?
Baking spices and apple cider give this cake seasonal flavor on p. 60. photography by cheryl waller
STory, rEcIpE AND phoTogrAphy by ShErrIE cASTEllANo
S’moreS With Granola “Graham” CraCkerS and Cardamom PearS yIElDS | 8 s’mores | Granola “Graham” CraCkers
2¼ ¼ 2 ½
cups oats tsp sea salt Tbsp butter cup maple syrup
pears, quartered and cored tsp ground cardamom Tbsp maple syrup pinches salt
marshmallows squares dark chocolate (70 percent to 85 percent)
| preparation – granola “graham” crackers | preheat oven to 350°F. line a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with parchment paper, and set aside. In the bowl of a food processor, gently pulse oats and salt until medium-coarse grind is achieved. Add butter, and pulse a few seconds more. Transfer mixture to a mixing bowl. Add maple syrup, and stir until well combined. press mixture into bottom of prepared baking dish, and transfer to oven to bake, 20 minutes. remove from oven, and slice into squares inside dish. Allow crackers to cool completely, then remove parchment paper and divide crackers into presliced portions.
| preparation – cardamom pears | prepare a campfire or charcoal grill. prepare 2 foil pockets for pears. In each pocket, place 1 cored and quartered pear, ¼ teaspoon cardamom, ½ tablespoon maple syrup and pinch of salt. close pockets, and seal well. place on top of red coals in campfire or grill, and roast until pears are soft, 10 to 15 minutes depending on heat of coals. When pears are finished roasting, slice all quarters into thin pieces. Set aside.
| assembly | over campfire or grill, toast marshmallows. Assemble s’more by layering a cracker with a toasted marshmallow, then a pear slice, then a chocolate square and topping with another cracker. %PG
No matter the season, no matter where I am, there is nothing that evokes chilly fall nights for me quite like cooking food over a fire. Some of my greatest childhood memories are of camping and cooking over a campfire alongside friends and family. Exhausted by the elements, we’d cap off long days by huddling around a fire at sunset, ready for dinner – and then dessert, of course. These granola “graham” cracker and cardamom-pear s’mores
2 ½ 1 2
With Granola “Graham” CraCkers and Cardamom Pears
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combine all of the best parts of the childhood favorite – crispy grahams, gooey marshmallows and silky-sweet chocolate – made with ingredients that are healthier and fancier than the classic version. Fire-roasted cardamom pears add a subtle sweetness to the dark chocolate used here, and the softness of the pears complements the texture of the chocolate and marshmallows, all sandwiched between crispy, oaty “graham” crackers.
Sherrie Castellano is a health coach, photographer and private chef based in St. Louis. She writes and photographs the seasonally inspired vegetarian and gluten-free blog With Food + Love. She has contributed work to Driftless Magazine, Vegetarian Times, go gluten-Free Magazine, Food52 and Urban Outfitters, among others. You can find her hanging with her aviation-enthusiast husband, sipping Earl Grey tea, green juice and/or bourbon.
hardscaping made simple build your fireplace this weekend
Homemade Greek Food Carry out • Catering Private Parties Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava oLYmPIa keBoB HoUSe aNd TaVerNa Patio Now open 7 days a week from 11am 1543 McCausland • 314-781-1299
MI D DL E AN D HIG H SC HO OL CO LL EG E PR EP AT OR Y + FA RM -TO -TA BL E LU NC H OP EN HO US E SAT , NO V 5
Arts. Creativity. Invention. Social Responsibility.
Over 30 Years.
AN INDEPENDENT 6-12 SCHOOL
7933 Main St. KC, MO 64114 816.444.5225 kcacademy.org
i made that!
Prepackaged kit complete with all materials Download simple, how-to instructions 2 Colors – Timberwood blend and Bethany Ledge blend Available with or without wood boxes
Columbia | Jefferson City | St. Louis | Kansas City www.buildwith.romanstone.com
healthy lean meats chicken
in the u.s.
healthy alternative meats packed
with 600% more omega-3’s!
showmefarms.com Show Me farms 7750 e highway Ab columbia, Mo 573-881-0835
All natural American Grass Fed Beef.
No Antibiotics, No Steroids, No Grain. All raised on Dierks Farms land from birth to harvesting.
FALL SPECIAL: 1 roast, two pounds of stew meat and 3 lbs. of ground beef for $50.
Come see us at the Tower Grove Farmers Market on Saturdays from 8-12:30.
www.Dierks Farms.com (618) 426-3386 https://www.facebook.com/dierksfarms
Inspired Local Food Culture
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Meet: AroniA Berries story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg
AroniA Berry Conserve with rosemAry And Juniper Fresh Aronia berries can be tricky to find fresh unless farms near you grow them. Thankfully, they freeze well – similar to blueberries – and can be found frozen in natural grocery stores and smaller health-food stores. yields | 2 cups |
16 ₂⁄₃ ½ 1
oz Aronia berries cup plus 2 Tbsp cane sugar, divided cup water large sprig fresh rosemary (or 2 small sprigs) 1 or 2 juniper berries, crushed and finely chopped 1 large lemon, peel removed in thick strips with a knife, juice strained and both reserved fat pinch kosher salt
| preparation | in a large saucepan over medium heat, combine berries,
₂⁄₃ cup sugar, water, rosemary, juniper
berries, lemon peel and juice, and salt, and mix together; stir occasionally until mixture comes to a bubble. reduce heat to medium low, and simmer for 30 to 35 minutes, until fruit is tender and has cooked down. strain fruit, and reserve juice in pan. remove lemon peel and rosemary stems from strained berries. transfer berries to large wide-mouth canning jar; set open jar aside while making syrup. add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar to juice mixture in pan; stir over medium-high heat until sugar has dissolved and mixture bubbles. reduce heat to medium, and simmer until liquid has thickened to a syrup, 10 to 15 minutes, watching carefully to avoid burning. pour hot syrup over berry mixture; syrup should just cover top of fruit. Keep jar open, and allow to come to room temperature on counter. seal jar with lid, and transfer to refrigerator to store until ready to use.
the woods are lovely, dark and deep (and filled with aronia berries)…
What Do I Do WIth It?
although you don’t see aronia berries hanging out on supermarket shelves much, they’re big players in the concentrated juice game: companies have used them for What Is It? the aronia plant is an ornamental shrub that grows particularly years to boost color, flavor and nutritional value. lithuanians use them to make wine, and native americans regarded well in the northeastern, eastern and Midwestern U.s., where the berries as a staple food. aronia berry farms have been humidity and warmth abound. you might encounter them in popping up all over the Midwest as of late, as the shrubs are densely wooded areas or swamps during the early fall, relatively profitable and easy to cultivate. when the bushes come to life with clusters of mysterious, deep-indigo-hued fruit approximately the size of a blueberry. forget summer berries: the astringency and sourness of the aronia berry is commonly known as the chokeberry (not aronia berries will change the way you do autumn. there’s to be confused with chokecherry, which is a different thing entirely) due to its pucker factor, and popping these pleasantly an earthy, woodland-forest flavor to the fruit, with a dark sweetness under layers of tartness that makes it flexible acerbic berries in your mouth is like chomping down on sour in savory or sweet dishes. cook it down to make jam, or use candy. if that’s not reason enough to try them, the berries are the juice to make a shrub for cocktails. better yet, make this disease-annihilating antioxidant powerhouses similar to more conserve with herbal undercurrents of rosemary and juniper. on-the-radar fruits like acai, sea buckthorn or mangosteen. Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.
missouri artisan cheeses all under one roof
Grand opening! Join us every Friday night in October for cheese appreciation Wine/Cheese Pairings | Guest Speakers | Special Sales For tickets: coolcowcheese.com
featuring products from: Green Dirt Farm | Homestead Creamery Heartland Creamery | Goatsbeard Farm Baetje Farms | Cool Cow Cheese | edgewood creamery 100 East 4th Street | Hermann, MO Inside the Crown Suites Hotel Thursday â€“ Saturday 11 am to 7pm Sunday 11 am to 5 pm Watch for our special events calendar on Facebook (der kase) Inspired Local Food Culture
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Roasted Venison Loin With BlackBerry Sauce
story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG
Roasted Venison Loin With BLackBeRRy sauce Brighten up rich and robust roasted venison with tart and sweet blackberry sauce (recipe to right). serves | 6 |
1 1½ 1 ½ 2 3 4 to 5
tsp sea salt, plus more for seasoning tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning tsp sugar tsp granulated garlic lbs venison loin or backstrap Tbsp clarified butter, plus more for drizzling baking sheet sprigs thyme blackberry sauce (recipe to right)
| preparation | preheat oven to 200°f. combine first 4 ingredients in a bowl to make a dry rub. transfer venison to a plate, and apply rub all over. let venison sit at room temperature while prepping other ingredients. (refrigerated meat should rest at room temperature for about 45 minutes before roasting.) prepare a baking sheet with a drizzle of clarified butter. add thyme in middle of sheet where venison will roast. in a cast-iron skillet over high heat, heat pan until very hot but not smoking. add 3 tablespoons clarified butter, and when melted, swirl pan to coat. add venison. sear meat until very brown on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. remove pan from heat, and transfer venison to prepared baking sheet on top of thyme, and place in oven. roast venison for about 40 minutes, depending on size of loin, or until a meat thermometer registers an internal temperature of 135ºf. remove from oven, and lightly tent with foil until ready to serve. to serve, cut venison loin into 6 servings, plate each and spoon blackberry sauce over top.
deer season is upon us: in Missouri, archery hunting runs through nov. 11 (and again from nov. 23 to jan. 15), and hunting with firearms runs from nov. 12 to nov. 22. Whether you’re lucky enough to bag a buck or receive venison meat from a friend, there’s a lot you can do with every part of the animal, especially the loin or backstrap, sometimes called
BLackBeRRy sauce 3½ 1 2 4 1 4 ½ ¼ to ½ 1 3 ½
oz dried wild mushrooms cup hot water Tbsp clarified butter shallots, large dice clove garlic, minced oz shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, sliced cup dry red wine cup port cup beef stock Tbsp cold butter, cubed pint fresh blackberries
| preparation | in a small bowl, combine dried mushrooms and hot water, and set aside to soak for 30 minutes. remove hydrated mushrooms from water, and finely dice. strain mushroom water through a fine sieve, and discard sediment but reserve water.
the “hunter’s filet mignon.” venison backstrap comes from the part of the deer that gets little exercise, which is why it’s often compared to juicy beef tenderloin. venison is denser than beef, so you need to cook it for a longer amount of time. serve it rare with tart and slightly sweet blackberry sauce (recipe below), which cuts through the meat’s rich flavor.
in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, coat pan with butter. add shallots; sauté until tender but not browned. add garlic, and cook until it releases its fragrance. remove shallots and garlic from pan to a bowl, and increase heat to high. add shiitakes, and sear. add hydrated mushrooms, and finish cooking both. remove mushrooms from pan, and add to shallot-garlic mixture. set aside. return skillet to heat; add wine and port to deglaze pan. When both have fully reduced, add stock and strained mushroom water, and reduce by three-quarters. Whisk in butter, 1 cube at time. (Wait to add next cube until previous cube has melted.) add sautéed vegetables, and cook for 2 minutes. add blackberries, and cook for 1 or 2 minutes more until they start to release juices. season with salt and pepper; remove from heat. spoon blackberry sauce over venison loin, and serve.
the menu • Beet Salad With Cider Vinaigrette • Potato Gratin • Spinach Soufflé • Roasted Venison Loin With Blackberry Sauce • Tarte Tatin
Learn more. in this class, you’ll learn how to perfectly cook venison loin and to make an expert soufflé using spinach and other savory ingredients. you’ll also make a sweet and tangy cider vinaigrette to dress up a classic fall beet salad.
get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school on Wed., oct. 26 at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Saturdays and Sundays at 6:30pm.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 5:30pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 8pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm. Beginning Oct. 20, watch Feast TV Thursdays at 7pm and Saturdays at 4:30pm.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) every Monday at 12:30pm.
Check your local listings to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:
Scare up favorite candy, fresh-baked treats and tasty appetizers for trick or treating and parties. Plus, you’ll find cards, flowers and party essentials for a frightfully fun Halloween! LOOK FOR OUR D.I.Y. BATTY CRAFT OR DEVILISHLY DELICIOUS VIDEOS AT SCHNUCKS.COM IN SIMPLY SCHNUCKS MAGAZINE OR THE YOUTUBE LINK.
Inspired Local Food Culture
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apple skillet cake STory and reCIpe by ChrISTy auGuSTIn phoToGraphy by Cheryl Waller
Apple Skillet CAke SerVeS | 10 to 12 |
1½ ¾ ½
1 ½ ½ ¾ ½ ¹⁄₃ ½ ½ 1 2 2
butter, for coating pan cups all-purpose flour tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground cardamom pinch ground ginger pinch ground allspice pinch ground clove tsp baking powder tsp baking soda cup brown sugar cup granulated sugar tsp kosher salt zest of ½ orange (optional) cup apple cider or apple juice cup sour cream cup sunflower or canola oil tsp pure vanilla extract large eggs cups peeled, cored and diced apple ice cream (to serve)
| preparation | preheat oven to 350°F. Coat cast-iron skillet with butter, and preheat skillet in oven for 10 minutes. In a medium-large bowl, sift next 8 ingredients together. In a small bowl, combine sugars, salt and zest. Stir sugar mixture into dry ingredients. Set aside. In another small bowl, whisk all wet ingredients together except diced apple and ice cream. Make a well in center of bowl of dry ingredients, and whisk wet ingredients into it to form a thick batter. Stir in diced apple, and pour into preheated skillet. Transfer skillet to oven, and bake for 25 minutes, until center is puffed and cake is a dark golden brown. Serve immediately with a big scoop of ice cream, or store at room temperature for up to 4 days. don’t leave cake in cast-iron skillet overnight as apple will discolor and skillet might rust.
Cooking in a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet is a rite of passage in many families. Skillets become heirlooms handed down from generation to generation: Vintage Griswold Manufacturing Co. or Wagner Manufacturing Co. cast-irons are known to sell for more than $100 if the decades-old seasoning is intact. I was lucky to come by my prized skillet from my husband, an avid camper, who seasoned it by cooking bacon and crispy
potatoes in it. We’ve used it almost daily for more than 20 years. The flavor achieved by cooking in a cast-iron skillet is only surpassed by the excellent caramelization it gives meat and vegetables. Most people know they can bake cornbread in their cast-iron skillet, but this apple cake also turns out perfectly crispy and delicious. The following recipe is a riff on basic muffin or pancake batter and is very simple to make at home.
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
ln house © Reed R. Radcliffe / TripleRPhotography.com
Don’ t MiSS one of fAll’S MoSt AntiCipAteD eventS! The Ladue News Show House | October 22 - November 6 4388 Westminster Place St. Louis MO 63108 Presented by
aGeNT TeD WiGHT
GeNeraL HOuSe TOur Saturday, October 22 through Sunday, November 6 | Open Tuesday - Sunday 10am-5pm Daily | Closed Monday
purchase TickeTs, | To PLeaSe viSiT WWW.LaDueNeWS.COM. |
A portion of the proceeds from all ticket sales will benefit SSM Health Cardinal Glennon Children’s Hospital.
plaTinum sponsors | Gold sponsors | STL TiLe silver sponsors | aDvaNCeD NurSiNG ServiCeS, arCH FraMiNG & DeSiGN, SaGa ruGS
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| 64 |
the year in beer
| 75 |
| 80 |
lure of the line
| 88 |
The biggest brewery news and some of the best new brews of the past 12 months. At Halcyon Forge in Sedalia, Missouri, Joseph Schrum handmakes chef knives that are as much a piece of art as they are an everyday kitchen essential. Chef John Perkins of Juniper in St. Louis returns to the river where he first learned to fly-fish and shares six recipes for cooking over a campfire. Missouri duck hunter Steve Holmes shares how he found his calling.
STeve HoLMeS (LeFT) And STeve PoTTer on A duCk HunT (P. 88) PHoTogrAPHy by Judd deMALine
The craft-beer movement has been brewing in our region for decades, and yet in just the past five years, we’ve seen an incredible uptick in the number of breweries. Production and distribution has also increased at established breweries, leading to more creative styles and experimentation – this year, one St. Louis brewery is even opening a research brewery. Here, we share an overview of the innovation happening in the craft-beer scene. Beer fans face an abundance of options when it comes to year-round, seasonal, collaboration and limited-release brews. Two local beer experts shared their favorite beers released from October 2015 to October 2016: Justin Phelps, a Certified Cicerone® who writes the Saint Brewis beer blog, and Pete Dulin, a beer writer whose second book on craft brewing, Kansas City Brewing: A History of Brewing, will be released this month. Visit feastmagazine.com for even more of their beer picks. wriTTen By eTTie BerneKing, BeTHany CHriSTO, PeTe DuLin, riCHarD HaegeLe, SaraH KLOePPLe, Liz MiLLer, JuSTin PHeLPS, HeaTHer riSKe anD nanCy STiLeS
nOrTH KanSaS CiTy, MiSSOuri
calIBraTIon Brewery Glen Stinson, who started homebrewing 25 years ago, now owns Calibration Brewery, housed in an 8,500-square-foot building featuring a spacious taproom, patio, beer garden and event space. Stinson recruited brewmaster Pat Sandman, of now-shuttered 75th Street Brewery in Kansas City, to help build and operate Calibration’s 7-barrel brewhouse. The brewery’s beers, each titled after a popular song, include Compared to What (Scottish ale), Scare Myself (IPA), Carry On (milk stout), All Day All Night (coconut brown ale made with fresh coconut), Let It Flow (golden ale), For What It’s Worth (strawberry blonde ale) and Some Kind of Wonderful (hefeweizen). The beers pair well with chef Adam Clay’s menu of pub fare, including Chicago-style hot dogs, chicken wings and black-bean hummus. The brewery will be celebrating its official grand opening later this fall. –P.D. 816.994.8277, calibrationbrewery.com PhOTOGrAPhy By PETE DuLIN
TallgraSS BrewIng co.'S The grIzz PrOVenanCe: Manhattan, Kansas STyLe: Imperial IPA (9.5% ABV) PairingS: Spicy charcuterie ○ Jambalaya ○ Fried chicken ○
Cheers to all of the brewers who are pushing the local industry forward – we’ll drink to that!
Sharp Cheddar ○ Crème brûlée
For adults who are still children at heart, what could be a more appealing drink than hard soda? Nothing sounds better than a foamy mug or chilled bottle of root beer – unless, of course, it's hard root beer. Local options include Row Hard Root Beer from Columbia, Missouri-based Root Sellers Brewing Co. (which also makes a refreshing hard ginger beer) and St. Louis favorite Fitz’s Root Beer, which recently collaborated with O’Fallon Brewery to make a hard version of its iconic soda. Row Hard is sold in 16-ounce cans, and Fitz’s Hard Root Beer comes in bottles. At The Big Rip Brewing Co. in North Kansas City, Missouri, nonalcoholic house-brewed root beer is served on draft in the tasting room and can be mixed with vodka made by S.D. Strong Distilling. Breweries aren’t stopping at root beer, either – the surge of hard sodas released from brewers across the country include flavors like orange, ginger ale, cream soda and cherry-cola. –B.C.
Schlafly Beer'S expo Ipa PrOVenanCe: St. Louis STyLe: India Pale Ale (6.5% ABV) PairingS: Spicy tuna roll ○ Cajun chicken
The Grizz launched Tallgrass Brewing Co.’s 2016 Explorer Series, which is a diverse line of specialty beers. The IPA growls with bold citrus-hop flavor courtesy of the Cascade, Citra, El Dorado and Magnum hops used to brew it, followed by malty sweetness and a clean finish. The aroma hints at grapefruit, peach and orange with a trace of lemon and mango. The Grizz is a spring seasonal release available in 16-ounce cans. –P.D.
A St. Louis-only release, Schlafly Beer’s Expo IPA pours a hazy gold and has hop aromas of grapefruit, orange zest and resin accompany wheat-bread notes from the malts. With your first sip, those same juicy, resinous hops from the aroma hit your tongue while sweet bread-crust malts do their best to balance them out. Expo IPA is a limited-release beer available on draft and in 12-ounce bottles through the end of the year. –J.P.
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Crane BreWing In fall 2015, Crane Brewing’s 15-barrel production brewery opened in a former manufacturing building owned by president, co-founder and innovative homebrewer Michael Crane. Led by Crane, vice president and co-founder Chris Meyers, and head brewer Steve Hood, the brewery has already gained a strong following for its year-round Belgian- and French-style saison. Crane’s seasonals lean toward tartness, including grapefruit and orange goses, a German-style beer with a salty finish, and sour German ales such as apricot weiss, tangy kumquat weiss and tea weiss, made with black tea sourced from Hugo Tea Co. in north Kansas City, Missouri. The brewery’s special-release Farmhouse IPa made with Brettanomyces yeast adds funkiness to its bold hop flavor. –P.D.
4 Hands Brewing Co. expands and distills
This summer, 4 Hands Brewing Co., one of St. Louis’ most recognizable craft breweries, expanded its tasting room in LaSalle Park. The building’s second floor, which is three times larger than its ground-floor tasting room, is now open for additional seating. The first floor became too small to accommodate out-of-towners and regulars who stopped by after Cardinals games, and president Kevin Lemp says the second floor relieves the previous elbow-to-elbow experience. Upstairs also features a new bar with a dozen taps on both sides and glycol cooling lines, which allow 116-gallon beer vessels to be suspended from the ceiling. Guests will find wall art by local artist Peat Wollaeger; vintage arcade games; Skee-Ball; and chairs, tables, benches and barstools by Goebel & Co. plus stools by Mwanzi Co., both St. Louis-based furniture companies. 4 Hands is also launching a spirits line as part of a larger plan to launch a distillery. Its “microstill” will use more obscure ingredients to create two gins, including one made with cucumber and carrot skins. Lemp says the goal is to offer two or three seasonal gins throughout the year, including one that’s barrel-aged, and to release the first batch by the first quarter of next year. The brewery is also expanding its brewhouse: Lemp says 4 Hands is essentially doubling capacity from a 15-barrel system to a 30-barrel one to produce 35,000 barrels of beer per year. –S.K. 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com PHoToGraPHy By MaBeL SUen
roCkWell Beer Co.
“My favorite local beer is Crane Brewing’s Small Ball saison because it represents Kansas city as a whole: an up-and-coming city with a huge fan base that’s ever-growing.” –Eric Jones, bar lead, Bier Station
out of the more than 150 events hosted during St. Louis Craft Beer Week this summer, one of the most memorable was rockwell Beer Co.’s tasting at Craft Beer Cellar in Clayton, Missouri. although the tasting room and retail store won’t open until next year, rockwell founder andy Hille served a selection of his fermented and sour styles, including Liborius, a saison fermented with yuzu juice and ginger; Casa Del Melocotón, a mixed-fermentation saison with white peaches; and Miss Maudie, a multigrain saison fermented with Scuppernong grapes. Before announcing rockwell in april, Hille brewed at Perennial artisan ales in St. Louis. There, he developed popular brews like Suburban Beverage, a gose-style beer made with Key lime, Meyer lemon and orange peel. Hille hopes to open a 15-barrel brewhouse and production facility in St. Louis in spring 2017. –L.M. rockwellbeer.com
“4 Hands Brewing Co.'s Preserved Lemon Gose is an exceptionally sessionable and beautiful canned beer, and i’m thrilled 4 Hands decided to can it this year. this beer has the perfect amount of citrus and just a hint of salinity.” –Brandon Cavanagh, owner and head beer-buyer, Gezellig
StuBBorn gerMan BreWing Co. Stubborn German Brewing Co. joined the growing slate of southern Illinois breweries in april. owners Chris and Tammy rahn brew seven year-round beers including Fountain Creek Kölsch (made with local honey), Schitzengiggles (a Munich dunkel) and Stubbornfest (an oktoberfest style), plus seasonals like its Tighty Whitey witbier. The rahns, with help from family and friends, renovated a 135-year-old building near Waterloo’s courthouse square. The brewery’s cheeky name is a nod to the rahns’ and Waterloo’s German heritage. –N.S. 618.504.2444, stubborngermanbrewing.com PHoToGraPHy By J. PoLLaCK PHoToGraPHy
Six Mile Bridge'S Blood orange Belgian Wit Provenance: Maryland Heights, Missouri Style: Witbier (4.7% aBV) PairingS: angel food cake with an orange glaze ○ Bacon and
Monterey Jack omelet
Free State BreWing Co.'S garden Party lager Provenance: Lawrence, Kansas Style: Lager (4.8% aBV) PairingS: Thai gai pad grapow ○ Caprese salad ○ BLT ○
Chicken wings ○ Pizza ○ Pesto pasta salad with chilled shrimp
Floral and spicy coriander blended with semitart citrus waft off the orange-gold-colored Blood orange Belgian Wit from Six Mile Bridge. The coriander is the beer’s most prominent flavor, balanced by the blood oranges. The beer, while sweet, finishes semidry and leaves you wanting more. Blood orange Belgian Wit is a summer seasonal available on draft at select bars and restaurants around St. Louis, at the brewery’s taproom or in a growler to go. –J.P.
Garden Party Lager was originally released as part of Free State Brewing Co.’s seasonal Front Porch Series in July 2015, but this year it graduated to its own standalone release. Garden Party is a refreshing beer brewed with cucumber sourced from Kansas farms, as well as basil and juniper berries, all of which were added during the conditioning process. The result is a highly aromatic, herbaceous beer with cucumber-juniper flavors evocative of gin. Garden Party is a summer seasonal release available in 12-ounce bottles. –P.D.
785.843.4555, freestatebrewing.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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the side project cellar NomiNated for james Beard award aNd side project BrewiNg expaNds
Side Project Brewing is no stranger to awards and fanfare – this year alone, the Maplewood, Missouri-based brewery owned by Cory and Karen King was named the eighth best in the world at the RateBeer Best awards and also grabbed the title of People’s Choice Brewery at the Firestone Walker Brewing Co. Invitational Beer Fest. Now, the brewery’s tasting room, which opened in Maplewood in 2014, is earning some major accolades of its own. In February, The Side Project Cellar, which Karen manages, was named a James Beard Foundation award semifinalist for Outstanding Bar Program. A handful of wines and whiskeys are on offer, but it’s the attention to detail in serving beer at the Cellar that shines. Draft beers are served at three distinct temperatures (40ºF, 46ºF and 52ºF) or on cask at 58ºF, and each beer is served in the proper glass for the style. Beer drinkers will find a carefully curated selection of Side Project’s highly coveted saisons, barrel-aged stouts, barleywines and Belgian quads in addition to local and regional craft beers. Perhaps the best news, though, is that the Kings are currently working on a major expansion for the brewery. Originally started as a "gypsy" brewery inside Perennial Artisan Ales in St. Louis’ Patch neighborhood (where Cory was formerly the head brewer), Side Project soon plans to open a new brewing and barrel space in Maplewood. The space will allow the brewery to increase production and provide a brewery experience to fans, establishing that Side Project is no longer a, well, side project. –H.R. 314.224.5211, sideprojectbrewing.com PHOTOGRAPHy By JONATHAN GAyMAN
Boulevard BrewiNg co. expaNds aNd redesigNs
Since opening in 1989, Boulevard Brewing Co. has offered brewery tours to the public. As the brewery has grown in the past 27 years, so have the crowds turning out for its tours, which tested the resources in its facility. In June, Boulevard addressed the challenge by opening the 20,000-square-foot Tours & Recreation Center at 2534 Madison Ave. in Kansas City. The visitor center features beer exhibits, a beer hall, gift shop and a staging area for free daily 60-minute tours.
turn to p. 30 to learn about h ow Boule vard Brewing Co., Exc el Brewing Co. and Free St ate Bre wing Co. are putting lo cal spins on radlers.
In 2016, Boulevard also tripled the size of its distribution center by moving into a new 182,000-square-foot warehouse space in the Three Trails Industrial Park in south Kansas City. The center enables the brewery, now owned by Belgium-based Duvel Moortgat, to better manage distribution and storage for its beers. As of spring 2016, the brewery distributed to 35 states, as well as Washington, D.C. Boulevard also rolled out a new company logo plus a sleek, modern redesign of the labels and packaging for its growing roster of beers. The makeover unified the brand design – from its staples to year-round Smokestack Series to seasonals – under one fresh look. The brewery released a variety of new beers this year, as well, including Tropical Pale Ale, Tripel Julep and Rye-on-Rye-on-Rye. –P.D. 816.474.7095, boulevard.com PHOTOGRAPHy COuRTeSy BOuLeVARD BReWING CO.
springfield Brewing CO.'s greene gHOsT Provenance: Springfield, Missouri Style: India Pale Ale (6.5% ABV) PairingS: Spicy pork tacos with cilantro and lime ○
Curry chicken with mango chutney
The aroma of Springfield Brewing Co.’s Greene Ghost is all hops, with tangerine and melon leading the way and notes of pine bringing up the rear. The beer’s bright white head holds these aromas as you take your first sip and get a new blast of hops on your palate. Those same tropical-fruit notes are accompanied by a bitterness that’s balanced nicely by the sweet wheat-bread and bread-crust malt flavors. Greene Ghost IPA is a summer seasonal release available in 12-ounce bottles. –J.P. 417.832.8277, springfieldbrewingco.com
Old Bakery Beer CO.'s HiBisCus TarT Provenance: Alton, Illinois Style: Witbier (4.6% ABV) PairingS: Raspberry-goat cheese salad ○ Rhubarb pie
Old Bakery Beer Co.’s Hibiscus Tart pours a deep fuchsia color with a soft-pink head. A subtle lemon-citrus aroma comes floating out first, followed by a deep, floral, rose-petal character. As you sip it, the floral character imparted by the hibiscus becomes undeniable, and the same lemon-citrus notes come through, as well. Additional fruits show up in the flavor, but plums are the most present, while the tartness evokes raspberries. The malt flavor almost tastes like white bread, which allows the hibiscus to shine. Hibiscus Tart is a summer seasonal available on draft at the brewery. –J.P. 618.463.1470, oldbakerybeer.com
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Magical Gemstone Jewelry • Mystical Incense • Candles & Crystals Metaphysical & Inspirational Books www.theenchantedatticsite.com
Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant
FREE Gift with Every Purchase!
A "FEAST" Favorite!
Thank You all Local Area Chefs for Making Us #1
Hand Crafted Coffees Importing Fine Coffees from 20 Countries • QUALITY • EXPERIENCE • SERVICE
Join Us on Facebook
The Enchanted Attic 304 S. Main (636) 949-9502
Located in the Meridian Shopping Center at Hanley & Eager Roads behind the Best Buy.
FREE PARKING IN THE METRO LINK GARAGE Tu-Th: 11am-9pm • Fr-Su 11am-10pm 8396 Musick Memorial Dr. • 314.645.2835 www.MaiLeeSTL.com
A household name in O’Fallon for over 35 years! From the famous St. Louis style pizza, awesome pastas, sandwiches and entrees, there is something for everyone. With the original location in O’Fallon, there are now 4 other locations. St Charles (Elm), St Charles (Zumbehl), St Peters and now in Chesterfield Valley all offer their great Pizza!
Full Service Coffeehouse & Restaurant Supplier Fourth Generation Family Owned Coffee Roasters Since 1930
Dine in, carryOut Or DeliVery, let SteF’S DO the cOOking tOnight!
8645 Veterans Memorial Pkwy, O’Fallon, MO 63366
(636)272-STEF • stefspizza.com
HAPPY HOUR Featuring Total Wine & More
WEDNESDAY EVENINGS OCTOBER 19 & 26 5:30–7:30 P.M. Reservations Required
In Faust Park 15193 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, MO 63017 (636) 530-0076 • www.butterflyhouse.org
Inspired Local Food Culture
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Mark Twain Brewing Co. gains new Brewers
A few years ago, Dave Alley and Cat Golden left Tennessee for the St. Louis area in the name of beer. The husband-and-wife team took an apprenticeship at O’Fallon Brewery under head brewer Brian Owens. In October 2015, they began brewing together at Mark Twain Brewing Co. in Hannibal, Missouri, which was established in 2014. The brewery calls an old Ford Model T manufacturing facility home, and the property overlooks the Mississippi River, plus all of its brews wink to Mark Twain in name (including King Arthur's Court
sT. Louis Brewers guiLd CeLeBraTes 10 Years of HeriTage fesTivaL and PLans To oPen “weLCoMe CenTer”
Troika Brodsky knows how to tell a good story. As executive director of the St. Louis Brewers Guild, which was recently reconstituted as a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, he’s a cheerleader of sorts for the ever-expanding roster of St. Louis-area breweries (currently more than 40). “Our local beer community is a way for me to sell people on a really good story about our city,” he says. “I really do believe that the beer industry and the community that’s created around it in the St. Louis region is one of the most positive stories coming out right now.”
Imperial IPA and Rambler's Red Ale). Since coming on board, Alley and Golden have kept many of the brewery’s flagship beers, although they’ve tweaked all of the recipes and changed brewing techniques to reflect their personal approach. Golden says Mark Twain’s most popular beer at festivals is Huck Finn’s Habanero Apricot Wheat, while Clemens Kolsch sells best in the taproom. Once the brewery launches its bottled beer this fall, more beer fans across the region will be able to try its offerings. –S.K. 573.406.1300, marktwainbrewery.com PHOTOGRAPHy By CHeRyL WALLeR
In June, the Guild celebrated the 10th anniversary of its flagship Heritage Festival by moving to the newly redesigned grounds of The Gateway Arch. Brodsky felt the location was iconic to the city and also illustrated the role beer has played in St. Louis’ history for more than 175 years. And that’s not the only move in the works – Brodsky says it’s long been a goal of his to find a brick-and-mortar home for the Guild. Designed as a “welcome center” of sorts for both the local industry and tourists, the space might feature a tasting room, biergarten, museum and brewing school. Brodsky sees it as a way to celebrate St. Louis’ long and rich brewing history and to return the city to its position as a national beer capital. –H.R. stlbg.com
If you’ve visited a local brewpub, you’re likely familiar with growlers, the reusable, large-format glass containers that allow customers to take home beer that may not be available outside of the brewery’s tasting room. This year, a different kind of beer vessel debuted at a handful of breweries: crowlers. These 32-ounce aluminum cans are filled and sealed to order in their tasting rooms. 4 Hands Brewing Co., Modern Brewery and Schlafly Beer currently offer them in St. Louis, as does Exit 6 Pub and Brewery in Cottleville, Missouri; Martin City Brewing Co. in Kansas City; Springfield Brewing Co., in Springfield, Missouri; and Piney River Brewing Co. in Bucyrus, Missouri.
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Unlike growlers, crowlers are sealed airtight, allowing beer to remain fresher for longer – up to a month versus about one week for a growler, which can quickly go flat if the cap isn’t closed tightly. Most growlers are also typically made of glass, which is often prohibited in outdoor locales. The aluminum packaging of a crowler makes it welcome in places glass isn’t.
Growlers require ongoing care and maintenance, as well: If not cleaned and stored properly between uses, they can impart off-flavors to future fills. Crowlers are used only once, meaning every beer fill goes into a clean container. And after you drink all your beer, you can recycle crowlers the same as any aluminum can. –R.H.
eaRthBound e BeeR's
Piney RiveR BRewing Co.'s
KentuCKy Common Kentu
sweet Potato ale
Provenance: St. Louis Style: Historical Beer (6.5% ABV) PairingS: Coffee-rubbed New york strip steak Pairing
Provenance: Bucyrus, Missouri Style: Herbed/Spiced Ale (6% ABV) PairingS: Cinnamon-roasted almonds
Zucchini, mushroom, onion and red pepper kabobs
Maple-glazed roasted pork loin ○ Sweet potato pie
A historic style that’s open to interpretation, earthbound Beer’s Kentucky Common is made with e a brewing technique known as “kettle souring” to produce a crisp, acidic ale. With aromas of toffee, chocolate and coffee and a slight tartness, the brew pours a deep brown color. It has strong chocolate and subtle rye notes with a mouth-puckering sourness. Kentucky Common is a limited release available sporadically on draft at the brewery. –J.P.
Pouring a hazy orange-gold, this spiced beer has a pleasant caramel and toasted wheat-bread aroma with hints of vanilla and big baking spices. The mildly earthy sweet potatoes, while subtle, are perceptible in the flavor and help to balance the sweet malts and spices. Its 6-percent ABV along with its full body will help keep you warm as you drink one (or two) this fall. Sweet Potato Ale is a fall seasonal release available in four-packs of 16-ounce cans. –J.P.
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turn to p. 35 t o learn about Grinde rs High Noon, which will begin brewin g beer in leav enwor th, Kansa s, this fall.
Brewery emperial Brewery emperial's owners bring decades of brewing and hospitality experience to the new brewery and restaurant, scheduled to open this month in the Crossroads Arts District in Kansas City. Master brewer Keith Thompson is formerly of McCoy’s public house and now-closed 75th Street Brewery in Kansas City; chef Ted habiger is well known for his work at room 39; rich Kasyjanski bartended at McCoy’s; and Julie Thompson helped launch craft-beer bar The Foundry. expect expertly crafted American- and european-influenced ales and lagers, plus an extra special bitter, saison and other session beers. The brewery’s name is an homage to Kansas City’s once-mighty Imperial Brewing Co., and, like its namesake, Brewery emperial is poised for success. –P.D. 816.529.8008, breweryemperial.com
Maryland HeigHts, Missouri
Six mile Bridge
Mother’s Brewing Co. reBrands To fans of Mother’s Brewing Co. beers, there was something whimsical about the labels. They were fun and cartoonish – and now they’re gone. But don’t fret: The same sense of humor is still present on the brewery’s new labels and packaging, which launched earlier this year. Since opening in 2011 in Springfield, Missouri, Mother’s has taken the local craft-beer scene by storm and has finally settled down enough to take a hard look at its branding. The result is what owner Jeff Schrag calls a refresh: The well-known heart logo and beer names remain untouched, but the wording and images peppered across labels and six-packs have been tweaked to better represent its lineup of beers. Now, customers can soak up historical factoids and funny anecdotes about the brewery via its packaging. They can also learn what food pairings to serve with each beer, which style of glass to drink each beer from and at what temperature each is best enjoyed. To get the full effect, you’ll have to give your bottle of beer a few turns or swivel your six-pack around to see the back, but that’s half the fun. Be sure to stay tuned for more packaging refreshes as Mother’s updates its four-packs and bomber bottles before the end of the year. And don’t forget about Mother’s Winter Grind, which lands at the brewery during the last week of October. (In case you’re wondering, this beer is best enjoyed out of a coffee mug, paired with beef or a sweet treat.) –E.B. 417.862.0423, mothersbrewing.com phOTOGrAphy COurTeSy MOTher'S BreWING CO.
Lindsay Sherring was supposed to stay in South Africa for four months, but she ended up staying five years. That’s where she met her husband, ryan Sherring, founder of 021 Brewing Co. in Cape Town. There, the couple learned the basics of the business, from nailing down recipes to producing beers on a commercial scale. The Sherrings moved to St. Louis, Lindsay’s hometown, and opened Six Mile Bridge in August 2015. Six Mile recently added a 60-barrel tank at its brewery and tasting room in Maryland heights, Missouri. Named after Sixmilebridge, a small town in Ireland, the brewery is known for its Irish red ale – and its Irish stout won gold in the classic Irish dry stout category at the u.S. Open Beer Championship earlier this year. –S.K. 314.942.2211, sixmilebridgebeer.com phOTOGrAphy By MABeL SueN
StockyardS Brewing co. Greg Bland, ray Kerzner and Brendan Gargano, co-founders of Stockyards Brewing Co. in Kansas City, are bringing brewing back to the West Bottoms, once home to several pre-prohibition breweries. The brewery’s name pays tribute to the Kansas City Stockyards and Livestock exchange Building, where millions of cattle were sold until the Great Flood of 1951. The brewery is also located in a storied building: a portion of the former Golden Ox steakhouse, which chefs Wes Gartner and Jill Myers are reopening. Brewer Micah Weichert has already released several beers, including the tropical-flavored West Bottoms IpA. –P.D. 816.895.8880, stockyardsbrewing.com
↘ “Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.'s Fallen Flag is a turbid (hazy) iPa that’s hopped with Mosaic and Citra, and it’s delicious. drawing inspiration from new england breweries like the alchemist and lawson’s Finest liquids, narrow gauge has crafted its own version of the highly popular, juicy, hop-forward iPa style. –Brandon Nickelson, co-owner, Craft Beer Cellar-Clayton
narrow gauge Brewing co. The basement of Cugino’s Italian Bar and Grill in Florissant, Missouri, isn’t your typical restaurant basement – it’s the home of Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. Co-founder Jeff hardesty and his wife were curating a business plan for a brewery when they met Cugino’s owners Ben Goldkamp and David Beckham. It seemed a fitting match for the restaurant’s built-in customer base and large local beer list. Narrow Gauge – named after the type of railway that used to connect St. Louis to Florissant – offered two of its beers for the first time at Cugino’s on June 3. The brewery focuses almost exclusively on IpAs with fruity flavors and hop aromas, making them soft on the palate. Narrow Gauge plans to push the limits of what it can do from its home at Cugino’s, where it has plenty of room to grow. –S.K. 314.831.3222, narrowgaugestl.com phOTOGrAphy By rIChArD hAeGeLe
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URBan CheStnUt BRewing Co.
PLanS ReSeaRCh anD PiLot BReweRy Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s latest project is its research and pilot brewery, The URB (The Urban Research Brewery), located across the street from its bierhall in St. Louis’ The grove neighborhood. The 3,500-square-foot space will be anchored by a small pilot brewery, with a consumer-research bar area and a small pizza-by-the-slice counter. At the bar area, guests will be able “to provide instantaneous feedback on test beers” via an interactive platform on a smartphone or tablet. The URB will offer daily “test flights” of four 2-ounce samples for $1, as long as you provide feedback. After that, any of the test beers or established UCBC brews can be purchased at the normal price. Co-founder and brewmaster Florian Kuplent says test beers will include single-hop trials with new varieties, historic recipes and beers that highlight different yeast strains. Look for The URB to open this fall. –N.S. 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com PHOTOgRAPHy By JUDD DeMALIne
Piney RiveR BRewing Co. exPanDS
From homebrewing to opening a 10-gallon nanobrewery to expanding to a current 10,000-barrel capacity, Joleen and Brian Durham of Piney River Brewing Co. have grown steadily since launching five years ago. The Durhams knew from the get-go they needed to give visitors a reason to make the gravel-road trek to their microbrewery in Bucyrus, Missouri, in the heart of the Ozarks. Their solution: converting the 1930s-era bright-red
barn on the property into the BARn, a 4,000-square-foot taproom and deck. At the BARn, patrons can listen to live music, snack on eats from food trucks and vendors, and, most importantly, sip Piney River’s flagship beers, which include Float Trip Ale, Black Walnut Wheat and Old Town Porter, plus seasonals like a sweet potato ale, a black rye IPA and a cream ale. In addition to the brewery’s fifth anniversary, February also marked the grand opening of Piney River’s largest expansion to date – a new 12,000-square-foot production facility was added on the farm. The custom-built, 15-barrel brewhouse
pick up the tabs A few local craft breweries have been canning beer from early on, including Tallgrass Brewing Co. in Manhattan, Kansas, and Piney River Brewing Co. in Bucyrus, Missouri. Others have gradually introduced canned beers, and this summer, store shelves across the region were packed with a record number of options. Float trip-friendly favorites included 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s seasonal Dakine tropical IPA, Old Bakery
houses 64-barrel fermentation vessels, Brite tanks and canning equipment, although the brewery has been canning on site since 2011 and was the first microbrewery in the state to do so. Piney River hopes to produce 4,000 barrels in 2016 – which would more than double its 2015 numbers – and the expansion allows the Durhams to eventually grow to 10,000 barrels. Its beers are available across the Ozarks, southern Missouri and in the St. Louis area, and the Durhams hope to reach Kansas City stores this fall. –B.C. 417.967.4001, pineyriverbrewing.com PHOTOgRAPHy By BROOKe HAMILTOn
Beer Co.’s Citrus Wheat and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.'s Fantasyland, the latter of which are packaged in lidless cans that have entirely removable tops. In March, Mother’s Brewing Co. in Springfield, Missouri, announced its new series of 16-ounce canned brews called Backyard Beers. Cucumber Saison was released in April; Grapefruit Wheat and Tart Peach Bier followed over the summer. Look for cans of Tea Pale Ale on store shelves this month, plus Chocolate Chili Mole in
December and Blood Orange Saison in February. And Civil Life Brewing Co. shared a happy surprise with fans of its English-inspired ales this summer, too, when it released its popular American Brown in cans on Aug. 16. Prior to the debut, Civil Life’s beers were only available on draft or to take home in growlers from its St. Louis tasting room. A 40-barrel batch of American Brown was canned, totaling 525 cases of beer; the day of the release, customers could literally buy six-packs off the canning line. –L.M.
cheers to Per ennial Artisa n Ales and Civ Life Br il ew St. lou ing Co. in is, whic h celebr ated th both eir fifth a nniver saries in Sep tembe r!
Public House brewing co.'s
4 Hands brewing co.'s
courtsHiP cranberry ale
Provenance: Rolla and St. James, Missouri Style: Fruit Beer (6.1% ABV) PairingS: Brie ○ Cranberry-chicken salad on wheat bread
Provenance: St. Louis Style: American Pale Ale (5.5% ABV) PairingS: Toasted ravioli ○ grilled hamburger
Last month, Public House Brewing Co. released Courtship Cranberry Ale, made in collaboration with St. James Winery that's nothing like a typical fall seasonal. The ale is made with 100-percent real cranberry juice, pours a clear gold, and releases aromas of cranberry and sweet black cherry from its sparkling white head. Cranberry is the predominant flavor, and while slightly tart and delicate, it’s perfectly in balance with the wheat-bread character from the malts for a refreshing and quaffable autumn specialty. Courtship Cranberry Ale is a seasonal release available in 12-ounce bottles. –J.P.
Caramel and bread-crust malt aromas leap from 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s City Wide, with an amazingly bright tropical fruit character from the hops right behind them. As you drink the medium-gold beer, its fluffy white head recedes, and flavors of citrus, slightly spicy hops and light caramel coat your tongue along with a bitterness that outweighs the sweetness without overpowering it. City Wide is available year-round in four-packs of 16-ounce cans. –J.P.
with avocado and bacon on an onion bun
314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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2nd Shift Brewing MoveS to St. LouiS
Point LaBaddie Brewery In September, Point Labaddie Brewery opened a 3,000-square-foot 15-barrel brewery and tasting room, plus an outdoor beer garden, on more than 17 acres of land in Labadie, Missouri. The microbrewery, operated by brothers Andy and Rob Grimm, debuted with four styles of beer (IPA, hoppy pale ale, saison and porter) and also serves a rotating selection of wine and whiskey, a small food menu – plus catered food – and it hosts food trucks. The brothers, who grew up in Chesterfield, Missouri, have family in Labadie, about 45 minutes from St. Louis. Prior to opening the brewery, Rob earned an associate’s degree in brewing technology from Siebel Institute of Technology in Chicago and completed advanced brewing courses at Siebel’s Doemens Academy in Munich, Germany. The brothers have been homebrewing for a combined 20 years. –L.M. 636.451.6309, pointlabaddiebrewery.com
FriendsHiP Brewing Co. West of St. Louis, Friendship Brewing Co. became Wentzville, Missouri’s first commercial brewery when it opened in June. Friends and business partners Brian Nolan, Dan Belcher and Mike Wood, along with chef Jerry Caruso, renovated a 1914 ice factory into a 3,600-square-foot, 110-seat tasting room. Anywhere from five to 12 of the 25 taps are house brews; try Outrageous Accent, a French farmhouse ale; Friendzy, an IPA; and Wasabi Wheat, a hefeweizen with wasabi. –N.S.
turn to p. 35 t o re review of Crow ad a n Valle Brewin y ga Co.’s im nd Distillin g perial Pumpk Smash in in this month the Sh ’s on elf bee r colum n.
636.856.9300, friendshipbrewingcompany.com PHOTOGRAPHy By MABEL SuEN
HoFBräuHaus Later this fall, 400-year-old German brewery Hofbräuhaus is opening a massive 30,000-square-foot location in Belleville, Illinois. There are currently eight American franchises of the Munich-based brewery, including Chicago and Las Vegas; the Belleville outpost will also feature a hotel, convention center and soccer complex. Hofbräuhaus St. Louis-Belleville is the largest location in North America and will seat 500, plus a 250-seat outdoor biergarten and a 250-seat private room. Hofbräuhaus will always have its premium and light lagers, dunkel and hefeweizen on tap, plus a monthly rotating seasonal brew. The Belleville franchise is owned and operated by Chane Keller of Effingham, Illinois; he expects a late-fall opening. –N.S.
A dream almost seven years in the making will come true for St. Louis craft-beer fans this month when 2nd Shift Brewing officially relocates its tasting room and brewing operations there from New Haven, Missouri. Since launching in 2010, 2nd Shift has gained a steady following in St. Louis and across the Midwest for its flagship beers like Art of Neurosis, a year-round IPA, and Hibiscus Wit, a seasonal Belgian witbier. The brewery’s new 18,000-square-foot property will feature a 13,000-square-foot production facility and tasting room on The Hill that will allow 2nd Shift to immediately double its production from 800 barrels in New Haven to 1,600. Co-owner Libby Crider says 2nd Shift hopes to expand to 3,000 barrels by next year and 4,000 by 2018. Within six months, distribution will increase, as well, from its current footprint in St. Louis; Kansas City; Columbia, Missouri; Springfield, Missouri; and Nashville, Tennessee, to Chicago and Washington, D.C. Although 2nd Shift’s team spent the summer preparing for the move, brewer and co-owner Steve Crider has also been consistently releasing new offerings, not to mention variations on past one-offs and regular seasonals. This year, he debuted a series of fruit variants of 2nd Shift's beloved Katy, a saison barrel-aged with Brettanomyces lambicus yeast, in raspberry, blackberry, peach, apricot and cherry flavors. Libby credits 2nd Shift’s devoted St. Louis customers with sustaining the brewery over the past seven years and says the entire team is excited to finally be neighbors with other thriving local craft breweries. –L.M. 573.237.3421, 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Martin City Brewing Co.'s KentuCKy y Friar Provenance: Kansas City Style: Belgian-Style Golden Ale (11% ABV) PairingS: Sirloin steak and loaded baked potato ○ Roast beef
sandwich with onion rings ○ Roast duck with cherry sauce
Aged in bourbon barrels, Martin City Brewing Co.’s Kentucky Friar golden ale reflects the depth of the increasingly sophisticated releases from head brewer Nick Vaughn. A hazy golden color, the Belgian-style ale’s aroma is a heady blend of caramel, sherry, vanilla, oak and bourbon; the initial bold and sweet cherry flavor gives way to a strong bourbon character. Kentucky Friar was available on tap in a limited release at the brewery's taproom in Kansas City this summer. –P.D. 816.268.2222, martincitybrewingcompany.com
LogBoat Brewing Co.'s Bear Hair Provenance: Columbia, Missouri Style: Belgian-Style Blonde Ale (6.5% ABV) PairingS: Baked lemon-herb tilapia
The aromas found in Logboat Brewing Co.’s Bear Hair are mostly from the yeast, with a white pepper spiciness and lemon-citrus character blending nicely. When drinking this crystal-clear golden ale, you’ll get flavors that mimic the yeasty aroma, but a toasted character from the malts and floral flavors from the hops make sure the yeast doesn’t steal the show. The result is a refreshing beer with a dry finish. A spring-summer seasonal, Bear Hair is available in 22-ounce bottles. –J.P. 573.397.6786, logboatbrewing.com
rock & run brEwEry and pub
renovations to join the two spaces and expand the kitchen, with more construction planned on its brewhouse later this year.
rEbuilds and Expands
Rock & Run Brewery and Pub, established in 2013 at 110 E. Kansas St. just off the historic square in Liberty, missouri, is named for the passions of co-owners gene DeClue, a bassist in a local rock ‘n’ roll cover band, and Dan hatcher, a long-distance runner. In may 2016, the 130-year-old Bedinger Building next to Rock & Run unexpectedly collapsed. After the collapse, Rock & Run temporarily ceased operations as authorities assessed the damage. however, The Bell restaurant and bar, located on the opposite side of Rock & Run, had been vacant since november 2015. DeClue and hatcher negotiated a deal in may to transfer Rock & Run’s kitchen, restaurant and taproom into the former restaurant. The brewery gained a patio and prime corner location, as well as the chance to reboot its brewing operations. In September, the co-owners began
Shortly after reopening, Rock & Run announced plans to open a production brewery in Kearney, missouri, located just 15 minutes away, moving Rock & Run’s existing 3-barrel brewhouse to the former J & K Automotive Service building. The production brewery features a small taproom and beer garden, but its primary function is to increase production for both locations, with the eventual hope of installing a canning line and expanding distribution within the next few years. In the meantime, fans of the brewery’s popular Liberty² golden ale and 5K IPA (two of five flagship beers) can get their fill at the taproom in Liberty. Be sure to also seek out Rock & Run’s seasonals, including Saminator quad IPA, Choc-o-Wheat and Cherry Bomb Wheat. –P.D. 816.415.2337, rockandrunbrewery.com
whitE rivEr brEwing co. rEbrands
old bakEry bEEr co. cans organic bEEr
In January 2015, husband-and-wife team James Rogalsky and Lauren Pattan opened old Bakery Beer Co. in a unique space in Alton, Illinois: a 120-plus-year-old bakery. The brewery’s beers range from the classic (porter, golden oat, citrus wheat) to the creative (hibiscus Tart, Timor Coffee Red Ale), but they all have one thing in common – they’re uSDA-certified organic. old Bakery has been brewing organic beers since day one, but it wasn’t until the brewery started distribution in April 2015 that it received its official organic certification through midwest organic Services Association. (This winter, old Bakery also began canning its beers and expanded distribution to St. Louis.) Brewing organic beer is by and large the same process as brewing conventional beer, but Rogalsky says the key difference is in sourcing organic ingredients. “organic malt, raw grains and spices are easy to get, but organic hops are a bit of a challenge,” he says. Rogalsky says there’s also a lot of paperwork required to maintain certification, but at the end of the day, it’s something he and his wife believe in. –H.R. 618.463.1470, oldbakerybeer.com PhoTogRAPhy By JILL hEuPEL
White River Brewing Co. opened in the historic C-Street district of Springfield, missouri, in 2013. From the start, the production brewery has done things a little differently: Instead of releasing traditional six-packs, White River filled 750-milliliter bottles with extra-boozy European-style beers like Tavern Creek Tripel, which has a whopping 9.2-percent ABV. As word spread about the new brewery, so did demand. The tasting room, which was once only open by appointment, now fills up Wednesday through Sunday, and beer is now available in smaller, single-serving cans as well as bomber bottles. The latest switch came this march when the brewery gave its branding a modern makeover and reduced the ABV of its beers. The updated look arrived with new head brewer Stacey uchtman, after brewing at Piney River Brewing Co. The original labels featured imagery of ozarks waterways and a color palette of earthy oranges, greens, reds and browns – but that color scheme, although meant to reflect the local wilderness, was also lacking shelf appeal, uchtman says. The new labels feature brighter, bolder colors with more pops of white to make the cans stand out on store shelves. In march, the beer roster was also refined when three of White River's flagship brews – Copper Creek IPA, Tavern Creek Tripel and The Prongs Pale Ale – were retired. In their place, White River introduced Spring Fed golden ale, C Street Pale and gravel Bar IPA, and with distribution up 30 percent from last year, it looks like the brewery’s new approach is paying off. –E.B. 417.869.1366, whiteriverbrewingco.com
Visit feastmagazine.com for more top beer picks, big brewery news and new brewery profiles, including stories on Springfield Brewing Co. in Springfield, Missouri, Modern Brewery in St. Louis and Scratch Brewing Co. in Ava, Illinois.
Earthbound bEEr Expands
St. Louis’ smallest microbrewery will get a whole lot bigger this year. Earthbound Beer, which opened in 2014 in a 1,000-square-foot shotgunstyle space on Cherokee Street, is in the midst of a major expansion. Known for its “weird” beers, the brewery – run by Stuart Keating, Rebecca Schranz and Jeff Siddons – is moving its tasting room and all of its production to a new space just a few doors down. Located in the former Cherokee Brewing Co. stockhouse at 2724 Cherokee St., the new space clocks in at 8,000 square feet. “We realized very quickly that 1,000 square feet is charming, but we needed space to work and grow,” Schranz says. A new 7-barrel brewhouse will allow the team to do just that. Scaling up from 1½ to 7 barrels will allow Earthbound to introduce flagship beers for the first time, but a variety of styles will continue to rotate weekly in the tasting room, slated to open by the end of the year. Twenty to 24 taps will feature a more robust selection of Earthbound’s beer in addition to housemade sodas and a monthly beer cocktail. The team also plans to collaborate with local vendors – including baked goods from neighboring Whisk: A Sustainable Bakeshop – on a small food menu. In early 2017, a brand-new canning line will allow Earthbound to release seasonal favorites like the Thai Basil IPA and Slam Dunkel outside of its tasting room, and a biergarten is set to open next spring. –H.R.
314.769.9576, earthboundbeer.com PhoTogRAPhy By EmILy SuzAnnE mCDonALD
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grinders pizza 417 E 18th St Kansas City MO 64108
oc tober 2 0 1 6
grinders@stonewall 10240 Pflumm Rd Lenexa KS 66215
grinders high noon 206 Choctaw St Leavenworth KS 66044
At first glance, Halcyon Forge looks like any other backyard machine shop. The concrete floor is scuffed and dirty, and the popcorn ceiling peels back in fist-sized patches. Wooden workbenches littered with scraps of steel and hand tools wrap around the perimeter, and circular saw blades hang from the wall, with orange rust slowly eating away at their sharp, toothed edges. There’s an organized chaos to the shop, and if you look closely, you’ll start to see hints of the usable pieces for the artwork being made here. Halcyon Forge is the creation of 26-year-old Joseph Schrum, who began making chef knives in his garage in Sedalia, Missouri, two years ago. It took him a year and a half to hone his craft, but it didn’t take long for hunters and chefs – and even home cooks – to take notice. Schrum, who sells his chef knives through Bertarelli Cutlery in St. Louis and via custom orders on his website, made his first knife three years ago after attending a hunting trade show. With little more than a handsaw, two propane torches, a $30 sander, some Osage orange wood and metal files, the knife took Schrum 50 hours to complete and is just 9 inches long from tip to end. But the tiny knife was just the beginning of his new fascination. “It’s really a hobby gone awry,” he says, gathering four blocks of wood needed to complete one of the custom orders he’s currently working on.
Joseph Schrum’s handmade chef knives are as much a piece of art as they are an everyday kitchen essential. Written by ettie berneking photography by zach bauman
Few of the knives Schrum makes are for himself. Most are shipped out, but he did have a moment to make himself a small hunting knife for his 26th birthday in July. He used 1095 high-carbon steel for the blade, and the handle was made with old curly bubinga wood he picked up from a woodturner friend. The finger guard was made with nickel silver. Schrum mostly hunts deer and small game, and he always carries one of his knives with him when hunting. “My hunting knives have a nice belly in the blade to help clean larger game,” he says. Since launching Halcyon Forge, he’s completed several orders for hunting knives, but what he’s best known for are his chef knives. “I really wanted something that was usable every day, not once a year, so I started making chef knives,” he says. It took Schrum a year of research after making that first small paring knife and a dozen or so small hunting knives to figure out the dimensions, thickness and grip he wanted for a chef knife. Even now, with dozens of custom orders in his queue, Schrum says he’s still learning and experimenting. Every knife he makes starts with a piece of high-carbon steel. Schrum sources his steel at swap meets, through local sources and even from his dad. This is why the shop is littered with rusted saw blades, metal files and ball bearings.
“This hay knife is from the early 1900s,” Schrum says, describing a 15-inch toothed saber blade as he sorts through the pieces of steel scattered on a workbench. He points again. “That is a leaf spring from a ’72 Chevy pickup. This is a round rod, and this is a Nicholson file. It’s made in the U.S. and was probably used in a machine shop.” Before these pieces of steel can be shaped into blades, they have to be hammered to the desired shape and length. “It’s sort of like flattening out Play-Doh,” Schrum says with a laugh. “Except this is a lot harder than Play-Doh.” To get the metal hot enough to shape, Schrum hauls it out to the forge, which is housed in a small unfinished room off the side of the shop. Gravel crunches underfoot, and an American flag hangs against the back wall near the forge – a small 12-by-6-inch furnace propped up on a wooden stump. Schrum slips his safety glasses into place, flicks on the propane and watches as the inside of the forge bursts into flames. Using a pair of tongs, Schrum slides a piece of steel into the fiery inferno and waits. Once the steel glows red hot, he hammers it into the rough shape of a blade (and he repeats this step many times). It’s then cooled overnight in vermiculite, a mineral often used for insulation, and shaped to the finished profile on a belt grinder. From there, it’s stamped, heat-treated and dipped in oil. The blade is then transferred to an oven where it’s tempered to reduce brittleness. Next, it’s placed in a Rockwell hardness tester that uses hydraulics to test the strength of the steel on what’s called the Rockwell scale. Schrum performs this test on all of his knives to verify that they’re hard enough for everyday use. At this point, the blade still looks ragged, with hammered edges and a tarnished surface. To give it a mirrored sheen, Schrum presses the blade against a grinder, which shoots a firework of orange sparks toward the ground, until the foggy coating of age and use is ground away. Although some blades are left bare, others are treated with mustard and horseradish to force a darkened patina. Because Schrum uses high-carbon steel instead of stainless, his blades develop a patina with use. “This is a way of helping to protect the steel and also to add aesthetics,” Schrum says. “A freshly finished blade will stain and tarnish quite easily, and some precautions need to be taken until a full patina has formed. The forcing of the patina helps get to that full patina a bit faster and also looks pretty cool.” When the blade is finished, Schrum turns his attention to the knife handle. Each handle can take several hours to make and varies in material from wood and bone to handmade laminate. Bone is tricky to use. From his stash half-hidden on a shelf, the knobby deer antlers have to be a sizeable width to make a decent handle, so most pieces become chew toys for his dog, Ezra. Wood is easiest to work with. 76
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“It’s sort of like flattening out Play-Doh,” Schrum says with a laugh. “Except this is a lot harder than Play-Doh.”
“This is a Missouri walnut tree I hauled out of a river,” Schrum says, kicking a knobby stump shoved under a table. Like the rest of the wood Schrum sources from riverbanks, old warehouses and even his own backyard, the walnut is first dried and cut into 1¼-inch blocks. It’s then shipped to Arizona where it’s injected with resin, which hardens and stabilizes the wood. The resulting blocks are smooth to the touch, and the glossy surfaces reveal webs of veining, from a discoloration in the wood called spalting that’s caused by fungi trapped inside. The blocks appear to shimmer with faded purples, deep greens, blues and blacks. Some have been dyed, but others reflect these colors naturally. Either way, Schrum can identify each type of wood in his collection. There’s the apple tree from his front yard that died and was cut down, and then there’s a pile of wood blocks made from a Maker’s Mark bourbon barrel. He picks up block after block, naming off wood types: Missouri walnut, California redwood burl, curly bubinga, pistachio, honey locust... the list goes on. Besides bone and wood, Schrum even creates his own laminate for handles. He soaks fabric in resin before cramming it into a tube, where it hardens into what looks and feels like a rod of plastic. Everything from scraps of denim and flannel shirts to burlap coffee bags, aprons and flour sacks have wound up as handles. Schrum even made a handle using a Kevlar vest, which produced a rich woven pattern the color of honey. When he takes custom orders, Schrum asks if the client has material he or she wants incorporated into the knife. One of Schrum’s first orders was made from a flannel shirt, hedge clippers and a shovel cover dating back to World War II. Another family who lived through Hurricane Katrina sent in chunks of the cypress tree ripped from their yard to be used in a knife. Each knife starts with a pencil sketch. The handle pattern is then cut out with a saw and sanded down until smooth and polished. The size and shape of the handle varies based on the type of knife he’s making, but most of Schrum’s chef knives have a gentle curve, which makes them easier to hold in your hand. Once the handle is sanded smooth, the steel blade is fit into place. It can take 10 hours for Schrum to complete a knife from blade to handle. Right now he’s booked six months out with custom orders. Schrum doesn’t have a marketing budget and has only spread word of his work through Instagram and his website, but it’s been enough to spark people’s attention. Since starting Halcyon Forge last year, he’s shipped knives all across the world, from Canada to Sweden, which is especially impressive considering Schrum still has a full-time job as a production supervisor at a feed mill. “I work 50 hours a week,” he says. “This was just a hobby until Dan Bertarelli [of Bertarelli Cutlery] said he wanted to wholesale my knives. I didn’t even have a name yet.” Inspired Local Food Culture
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After racking his brain for company names for two months, Schrum landed on Halcyon Forge last March and sold his first wholesale knife in July. “It’s spiraled out of control from there,” he says, adding up the work hours he’ll put into two upcoming trade shows. “It [takes] 600 hours to complete the 60 knives I want to take to shows.” With a full-time gig filling his days, Schrum makes knives at night, but he loves the work. “Thin is in!” he says, shuffling through several colorful knives ready to be shipped, adding it’s all about “thin blades, thin handles.” Because Schrum rarely gets to make a knife for himself these days, he relies on customer feedback to improve his products, and he checks in with them a few months after he’s shipped a knife. Charlie Hammond, co-owner of Vain Foods, an artisan vanilla-extract company in Kansas City, is one such customer. He discovered Halcyon Forge at the inaugural CRAFT event at Crown Center in Kansas City last year and quickly placed a custom order for a chef knife and matching paring knife.
“I was very impressed by the work [Schrum] was doing,” Hammond says. “It’s now my go-to knife. The blade is beautiful and incredibly sharp.” The high-carbon steel requires more maintenance than stainless, so it’s crucial to keep the blade clean and well oiled, almost like a cast-iron skillet. “That’s part of the fun,” Hammond says. “You watch the blade change as you use it.” Schrum even has a full page on his website dedicated to knife care. Halcyon Forge knives range in price from $150 to $600, depending on the size and design. The blades range from 2½-inch paring knives on up 10-inch chef knives. Once an order is placed, it can take six months before it arrives, and most of that time is dedicated to the design. “None of my knives are the same,” he says. “They might use the same pattern, but the material and details are always different.” For those interested in placing a custom order, you’ll have to wait until next year, but you can purchase one of Schrum’s finished knives at the Artisan Chick Event pop-up trade show at Kansas City’s Crown Center on Oct. 8 and 9. Standing in Schrum’s shop, gazing at some of his smaller original knives still scattered around the space, you can see how far Halcyon Forge has come. That $30 sander Schrum started with has been upgraded, and last spring, he used his tax return to buy his forge and grinder. He still can’t believe how much the business has grown, especially given that, for now, it’s just a hobby. “I have no family connection to this trade,” he says. “I just saw other guys making hunting knives and figured, well, I could do that.” 636.226.5846, halcyonforge.com %PG
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| Triumph’s tune up |
Introducing Triumph Midtown Food + Drink
Modern American eatery
Elevated pub fare
Eclectic Japanese cuisine Serving the freshest fish in STL #BaikuSushi
Artisan cocktails 3407 Olive Street | St Louis, MO 314-896-2500 | baikustl.com
3419 Olive Street | St Louis, MO | 314-446-1801 | triumphgrill.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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Story and recipeS by John perkinS
| photography by Jonathan gayman
Chef John Perkins returns to the river where he first learned to fly-fish and shares six recipes for cooking over a campfire. his is the truth: i am not a fisherman. When i was a kid, my grandfather taught me how to hook a minnow. i learned how to clip off half a minnow’s tail so it “limped” in the water, which signaled to hungry fish that it was an easy target. he taught me how to cast a line with a flick of the wrist and how to find where the fish always hid, near fallen branches and brambles. When i was 8 years old, my dad retired as a colonel from the U.S. army, and we moved to the missouri ozarks. We lived on a farm a few miles from the current river. the farm had a pond stocked with bluegill, crappie and smallmouth bass. if i wasn’t swimming or fishing in the river, i was at that pond fishing. Just once, i persuaded my dad to join me. he grudgingly traipsed up the hill toward the pond wearing a suit and tie. he stood silently as i cast my line, over and over, with no luck. it was quiet and humid, and the light was dimming, so i asked him if he would try his hand at it, as i wasn’t having any luck. reluctantly, he shed his suit coat onto a tuft of weeds and grabbed the rod. i told him how to cast the line, with a flick of the wrist like i was taught, and to cast it toward the bramble at the edge of the pond. 80
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his cast was fine and true. We waited for a moment as the bobber held still on the surface of the water. and then it happened: the bobber disappeared. “pull back!” i shouted. “you got one! you got one!” my dad furiously spun the reel and finally pulled in the biggest damn bass that had ever come out of that pond, by far – a genuine five-pounder. “i’m going to toss it back,” he said. “don’t!” i warned. “Just lay it in the water, and let it swim off.” he looked down at his suit. “no," he said, "it’ll splash and get mud all over my pants.” he tossed it into the pond, and we watched it arc slightly in the air, twist and land flat on its side. the resulting smack echoed around the edges of the pond. the fish rolled over, listless, and floated back to shore. dead or stunned, i couldn’t tell. i looked at my dad, then at the fish and then back at him. “that’s why you don’t throw fish back,” i said. in high school i joined the fly-fishing club. We never went fishing, but we stood on the soccer field in a single line – arms cocked at 90-degree angles, bent at the elbows, rods held aloft – and practiced casting. in our left hand, we each held a length of the line and slowly fed it through
with each successive whip of the rod. We repeated the rhythm: the looping whip, the line curling back on itself, the pause and reload, and finally the spool unravelling itself out onto an invisible body of water. in the years after my family moved away from our farm in the ozarks, i hardly fished at all. Soon i was off to college, and then life happened: marriage, kids, opening a restaurant. i am older now, with a busy life, and i long ago put away the things of my childhood. to be honest, i can’t recall the last time i baited a hook or stood in a river while listening to the water gurgle and rush by my feet. Last month, i packed fishing rods and some food and hit the road. Jeff Friesen, the chef at my St. Louis restaurant, Juniper, and another friend, Jon easterling, and i met up near bunker, missouri, along the current river, and we fished for a few hours. We didn’t catch anything, but it reminded me of what i had been missing: the loamy scent of the river, the minnows nipping at my ankles, the stillness. perhaps i shouldn’t have put away those childish things after all. 314.329.7696, junipereats.com
John Perkins recommends these two trusted sources for fly-fishing rods. A few years ago, a friend of mine, Chris Barclay, found his passion making fiberglass fly rods. He began his C. Barclay Fly Rod Co. in St. Louis, but this summer he moved to Winston-Salem, North Carolina. You can still order his rods through his website, cbarclayflyrods.com. The pair behind Tufts & Batson began making bamboo fly rods in Oregon around 2007, and they moved to St. Louis at the end of 2012. The company’s craftsmanship has earned it much-deserved national praise. Learn more, or place an order at tuftsandbatson.com.
some of these recipes call for cooking meals in cast-iron dutch ovens over a tripod, both of which you can purchase at outdoor recreation stores for about $30. (Turn to p. 44 for our recommendations.) The tripod has a chain and hook that allow you to suspend a cast-iron dutch oven above an open flame, and you can adjust the length of the chain to change the distance from the fire. The trout recipe on the following page calls for using a single-burner gas fryer, which can also be purchased at outdoor recreation stores.
Grilling a whole fish is simple, immensely satisfying and about as hunter-gatherer as you can get on the river. This recipe can be doubled or tripled if you have a particularly successful fishing trip. You will need to pack kitchen twine to tie up the stuffed fish. yields | 1 whole fish |
1 1 1 3 3 6
whole fish, cleaned and patted dry inside and out pinch sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Tbsp oil lemon, sliced into rounds, divided sprigs thyme cloves garlic, smashed sprigs rosemary, divided
| preparation | in a charcoal grill, heat coals. While grill is heating, score fish flesh by making shallow incisions on the bias that run from backbone toward belly. season inside with salt and pepper. Rub outside with oil, and season with more salt and pepper. stuff fish with half of lemon slices, thyme and garlic. Cut equal lengths of kitchen twine long enough to tie around body of fish. lay remaining lemon slices and half of rosemary on top of fish. starting at the head toward the tail, tie twine around belly to secure ingredients on inside and outside of fish. Add remaining rosemary to hot grill and lay fish on top of it. depending on grill heat, fish should cook for 5 minutes or so on each side. When fish is cooked, cut and remove kitchen twine. squeeze juice of stuffed lemon slices over top of fish, and serve.
There is nothing better than grilled corn loaded up with fixin’s. You can put whatever you want on the corn; just grill it long enough to get some grill marks (and of course until it’s cooked through). You can find Korean chile flakes at international markets, and you’ll thank me for the difference they make in the corn's flavor. seRves | 8 |
8 ¼ 1 1 ¾ 2
ears fresh corn cup sour cream red onion, small dice bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped cup Parmesan cheese Tbsp Korean chile flakes
| preparation | in a charcoal grill, heat coals. Remove all corn silk from ears, and place directly on grill. Cook 15 to 20 minutes. Add toppings as you would on a loaded baked potato. serve.
On the Current River, folks would go “gigging” at night for suckerfish, and any time there was a fish fry, that was the fish of choice. It was prepared simply, with a cornmeal dredge before it was fried. This recipe recalls those fish fries with fresh Missouri trout. Be sure to pack a candy thermometer to gauge the temperature of the oil in your cast-iron Dutch oven. serves | 4 to 6 |
2 2 ¼ 2 1 3 to 4
quarts oil cups cornmeal, seasoned with salt cup all-purpose flour eggs quart buttermilk trout fillets sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
| preparation | In a cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven over a single-burner gas fryer, heat oil to 350°F, using a candy thermometer to gauge temperature as oil heats up. Make sure to reduce heat once temperature is reached. In a large bowl, add seasoned cornmeal and flour. In a separate large bowl, whisk eggs lightly, and add buttermilk; dip fish fillets in egg mixture, and then dredge through cornmeal-flour mixture. Once all sides are coated, lower slowly into oil. Prepare a paper towel-lined plate. Fry for 5 to 7 minutes or until golden brown. Flip fish at least once. remove from oil, season immediately with salt and pepper, and drain on paper towels. serve.
If you’re cooking cornbread over a campfire, use a Dutch oven with a lid. This is where a cast-iron tripod is really handy. If you’re cooking on your stovetop at home, a cast-iron Dutch oven with no lid will suffice. serves | 8 |
¼ 3 1 1 1 2 2½ 2 ½
cup bacon fat, lard or butter cups cornmeal Tbsp baking powder tsp baking soda Tbsp salt eggs cups buttermilk sticks butter, melted cup sorghum molasses
| preparation | Prepare a campfire, and set up cast-iron skillet over tripod with chain attachment. Heat a cast-iron Dutch oven over direct heat. (If using a convection oven, preheat to 375ºF, and then place cast-iron skillet in oven to heat.) Once cast-iron skillet over campfire is hot, add bacon fat, and heat until just smoking. While fat is heating, in a large bowl, combine all dry ingredients. In a separate large bowl, combine remaining ingredients. Mix wet ingredients into dry, and stir to blend. Pour hot bacon fat from skillet into hot Dutch oven, and then stir in batter. Cover with lid, place over indirect heat on campfire and bake for 25 minutes. Place hot coals on lid, and bake for 30 minutes or more. If using convection oven, bake for 35 minutes or until golden brown and middle is set. serve. 82
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For this recipe, you’ll need to pack a cake tester to check the doneness of the potatoes. If you’re making this dish on your stovetop at home, simmer over medium heat until most of the stock has evaporated or been absorbed by the potatoes. serves | 8 |
6 to 8 russet potatoes, thinly sliced 1 package blue cheese crumbles 3 sprigs thyme salt 1 quart chicken stock
| preparation | Prepare a campfire, and set up cast-iron tripod with chain attachment. Place a single layer of potatoes along bottom of cast-iron Dutch oven, and sprinkle blue cheese crumbles and thyme over top. season with salt. Continue building layers in this order, making sure to season with salt. When finished, pour chicken stock over mixture. stock should just barely reach top layer of potatoes. Transfer Dutch oven to tripod over prepared campfire, and let potatoes simmer for at least 30 minutes. Test doneness of potatoes with a cake tester; potatoes are done when inserted cake tester comes out clean.
IN THE HEART OF SOULARD 2001 MENARD 314-833-6686 www.dukesinsoulard fb.me/dukesinsoulard Inspired Local Food Culture
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After a long night of eating, drinking and enjoying good company around the fire, you’ll need something to take the edge off your headache the next morning – biscuits and gravy to the rescue! Make sure to pack a box grater for the butter and a biscuit cutter for the biscuits. serves | 6 to 8 |
BISCUItS 5 cups all-purpose flour, more for flouring surface 2 Tbsp baking powder 1 Tbsp salt 2 sticks frozen butter ½ cup cream 1½ cups buttermilk Gravy 1 ½ 1 to 2 1
lb breakfast sausage cup flour cups milk Tbsp freshly ground black pepper
| preparation - biscuits | Prepare a campfire, and set up cast-iron tripod with chain attachment. Heat a cast-iron skillet. (If making biscuits in a convection oven, preheat to 350°F.) In a large bowl, sift all dry ingredients together. Using a box grater, grate butter into flour. Add cream and buttermilk, and gently combine using a fork. Once dough has come together in a loose, shaggy mass, turn it onto a floured work surface. Gently pat it down into a rectangle shape, and fold as if folding a letter. repeat 3 times, but do not knead. Pat dough out again to about a 2-inch thickness, and cut into squares. If you prefer rounds, make sure biscuit cutter has a fine edge. Transfer biscuits to hot cast-iron skillet, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until golden. Keep warm.
| preparation - gravy | Prepare a campfire, and set up tripod with chain attachment. Heat a cast-iron skillet over prepared campfire. Crumble sausage, and cook in hot skillet until some fat has rendered out and sausage is getting crispy in spots. Dust with flour, and stir with a wooden spoon to soak up grease. You want grease to be absorbed by flour, so if grease remains, add just a bit more flour as necessary. (Don’t go overboard, though, or gravy will be too thick.) Once all grease is soaked up, continue stirring coated sausage to cook out raw-flour flavor, 1 to 2 minutes. Add milk, 1 cup at a time, stirring constantly. (Gravy will quickly seize up, so constant stirring is key.) Add more milk until desired consistency is reached. season with pepper, and serve over biscuits with hot coffee.
Visit feastmagazine.com for more camping recipes by chef John Perkins, including angel biscuit cinnamon rolls.
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Over 10,000 bottles. More than 1,700 labels. 100 wines by the glass. Coravin pours. One of the World' s greatest wine lists is here in Saint Louis.
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We can tell you all about our impressive numbers, we can tell you that London and New York bragged about us... But you' ll have to visit yourself to fully experience our commitment and passion for fine wines of the world.
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9202 CLAYTON RD., SAINT LOUIS, MO 63124 E: INFO@TODAYATTRUFFLES.COM T: 314.567.9100 & 7258 @TRUFFLESSTL @BUTCHERYSTL www.todayattruffles.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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EdItor’s NotE: Steve Holmes is president of Summit Strategies Group, an investment-consulting business based in Clayton, Missouri. Holmes – known to friends as Homey – is a passionate and experienced duck hunter and a member of Wingshoot Farms, a private hunting club in Lincoln County, Missouri. He is also good friends with some of the best chefs in the St. Louis area, including Gerard Craft of Niche Food Group, Skip Steele of Bogart’s Smokehouse, Kevin Nashan of Sidney Street Cafe and Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., and Kevin Willmann of Farmhaus. Holmes has hunted with each of these chefs at Wingshoot, and each chef has also cooked wild duck from hunting trips with Holmes. In his own words, Holmes shares his experiences duck hunting and what he loves most about hunting in Missouri.
Hunting wasn’t sometHing i was brougHt up witH. A MISSOUrI DUCk HUNTEr SHArES HOW HE FOUND HIS CALL. Essay by stEvE HoLmEs | EdItEd by CatHErINE NEvILLE
pHotograpHy by judd dEmaLNE
I grew up in a family with a dad who worked all the time. In 1995, I became good friends with Steve Potter [of law firm Behr, McCarter & Potter, P.C.] when our kids started played soccer together. We had the same sense of humor, and we’d sit next to each other on the soccer field. He was hunting all the time, and I would make fun of him, by joking around and saying things like, “You wake up at 2am, drive three hours and sit in 20ºF weather in a swamp! What’s a pound of chicken go for at Schnucks?” I was at a church auction in 1999, and Steve donated a duck hunt. I started bidding on it, and he said, “What are you doing?” I said, “I want to go hunting with you.” He said, “You can go hunting with me tomorrow if you want.” So somebody else bought the trip, and the next day he said, “I’ll pick you up tomorrow at noon at your office, and we’ll head out.” He had everything: the Labrador retriever, the ATV, camo and six duck calls around his neck. I borrowed one of his shotguns – I had never pulled the trigger of a gun in my life at this point. We’re in St. Charles, Missouri, so 30 minutes from my office in Clayton. It’s a work day, and I’m wearing borrowed waders and camo in a duck blind and smoking a cigar. And so he puts his shotgun, a side-by-side, in my hand. About 10 minutes into it, Steve starts hammering the duck call that’s apparently most appropriate for this particular situation. The dog, Copper, starts wagging his tail. Steve drops down, then gives me a really dirty look because I didn’t, and two mallards cup to land. I jump up and pull the trigger. It’s the first gun shot of my life… and some poor mallard’s last. The mallard drops, and Copper retrieves it (living up to the breed’s name). We high-five, and I’m a duck hunter. About 10 minutes later, two pintails come in, we repeat our now well-choreographed dance and another bird drops. Steve said, “You know, you have two shells in your gun.” I was like, “Steve, I’m 2 for 2. I’m batting 1,000 percent... for life!” After thoughts of retiring from the sport at my peak subsided and 30 minutes had passed, I said, “What’s the deal? Where are the birds?” Steve said, “Oh, you think birds show up every 10 minutes, huh? Let me ask you: If you weren’t here, where would you be?” I said, “Work.” He said, “And what are you doing now?” I answered, “Smoking a cigar, high-fiving you and admiring my harvest!” He went on, “And where’s your wife?” “Back in town.” “Where are your kids?” “Back in town.” “Homey, now are you starting to understand hunting?”
There’s an ethic to hunting. You’re killing an animal, but there’s an ethical way to do it. You want to kill as cleanly and quickly as possible. You eat the meat. This is the philosophy of the kind of guys I hang around with, and that’s how 90-plus percent of hunters are. It might seem counterintuitive, but these are the guys who love nature the most. They want to be out in it. They want to be a part of the conservation effort. The duck population in North America is the highest it’s ever been, and it’s directly attributed to conservation groups like Ducks Unlimited, which we all support. It’s been creating wetland habitat for waterfowl for almost 80 years, along with every state and the federal government. Each year the state and the feds say how long the season will be and daily limits by species. To be a hunter, you have to be knowledgeable.
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Based on the health of the North American duck population, duck season in Missouri will either be a 30-day, three-duck season; a 45-day, six-duck season; or a 60-day, six-duck season. Since I began hunting in 1999, it’s been 60-day, six-duck seasons because the population numbers have been very good, and they’re getting better. At the end of the day, the goal is a very healthy duck population, which is currently at an all-time high. An average mallard’s life is three years; they aren’t around long. Females hatch a bunch of kids and can lose many of them before they’re able to fly. Ducks in Missouri fly from Canada to Louisiana on the Mississippi Flyway every year of their lives. They’re beautiful, majestic – I just think the world of ducks. I have 14 ducks on my wall in my office at home and six more in my office in Clayton. I have duck statues on my desks. It’s just a neat animal. And ducks are magnificent creatures. Each breed is very different. There are two big groups: diving ducks and puddle ducks. The divers will usually hang out in deep water and dive for fish. The puddle ducks are the guys you always see with their tails up in the air, eating facedown.
“WE LIvE IN A vErY SpECIAL pLACE. ThE ENTIrE STATE oF MISSourI IS IN ThE MISSISSIppI FLYWAY.”
Mallards, the most common duck in Missouri and America, are puddlers. They tend to fly in groups of eight to 10, and they come to the call. Northern pintails travel in groups of four or five. You call at them, and sometimes they care, sometimes they don’t. Canvasbacks are big diving ducks, and true to their name, they have mostly white bodies and backs. Green-winged teal will travel in groups of 30 to 50. They’re the smallest ducks, and they’re just rockets. They’re real fast, and 30 of them will fly in, and when the flock turns, they all turn. It looks like one big wing, and even though they’re tiny, because they’re fast and there are so many of them, it sounds like a jet over the top of you. Many times, you won’t know they’re there until you hear them, you look around and they’re by you. We live in a very special place. The entire state of Missouri is in the Mississippi Flyway, one of four major north-south flyways in North America. The easy way to think about it is that ducks breed up in Canada in the summer, and in January, they want to be in Louisiana. In April, they start to go back north to raise their young. Geese, bald eagles and American white pelicans do the same thing. And you see them all when you’re out in a duck blind. (continued on p. 92)
PICTURED TOP: Steve Holmes throws a duck decoy. PICTURED RIGHT: Steve Potter uses a duck call.
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a hunting primer:
GettinG Started in the Show-Me State WrItten by Jason JenkIns Public land and hunting opportunities abound in Missouri, but for the uninitiated, learning how to take food from field to freezer can be daunting. the state offers a starting point, says Kyle Lairmore, hunter-education and shooting-range coordinator with the Missouri department of Conservation (MdC). the department offers programs and managed hunts to help first-time hunters learn the ropes and meet peers. “our hunter-ed program provides more flexibility and options than ever,” Lairmore says, noting the course is required for anyone 16 or older hunting with firearms. “it teaches hunter safety and ethics, wildlife identification, game care, firearm-handling skills and hunting techniques.” the course consists of two parts: a knowledge session that can be completed online, through a written self-study guide or in a classroom; and a skills session with a mandatory exam. Missouri also offers an apprentice-hunter program: For a $10 authorization and the cost to acquire a firearm-hunting permit, you can go afield with a properly licensed and certified hunter. this option is for two permit-years only, after which hunter education must be completed. “don’t be afraid to ask questions or to ask someone to take you hunting,” Lairmore says. “if you’re a hunter and someone asks, don’t be afraid to take them. Share his or her first-time experience, and you can relive your first hunt.” Learn more online at huntfish.mdc.mo.gov. baSiCS For huntinG MiSSouri’S MoSt PoPuLar GaMe SPeCieS: White-tailed deer: Last year, Missouri hunters harvested nearly 275,000 white-tailed deer, two-thirds of them during the 11-day firearms season, or deer season, slated for nov. 12 to 22 this year. however, opportunities to hunt deer statewide began Sept. 15, when archery season opened. (this stops during firearm season on nov. 11 and then returns from nov. 23 through Jan. 15.) a permit is required to hunt deer, and deer limits and restrictions vary by county and season. Full details are available in MdC’s 2016 Fall deer & turkey hunting guide at huntfish.mdc.mo.gov. Wild turkey: Missouri affords three weeks each spring to hunt wild turkey, allowing each permitted hunter to harvest two gobblers. (there are limits to this, however; hunters can’t take two birds in one day and can only take one during the first week of the season.) turkeys – both male and female – can be hunted throughout the fall, but firearms are only allowed in october. in 2017, the spring season will be april 17 through May 7, pending approval. More than 400 MdC conservation areas are suited for turkey hunting.
Over the course of 2016, we will be traveling around the world, visiting farms, selecting top lots, and learning more from our producer partners. By strengthening our relationships with our producers and communities, we can ensure the quality of your coffee for years to come.
EL SALVADOR january MYANMAR february HONDURAS march COLOMBIA august BRAZIL september HAWAII october ETHIOPIA november RWANDA november
Pheasant and Quail: these upland game birds offer excellent quarry for beginning wing shooters, and hunting them requires little equipment. with a small-game-hunting permit, they can be pursued from nov. 1 to Jan. 15. daily limits are two male pheasants or eight quail. Pheasant populations are sporadic but most abundant in northwest Missouri. Quail are found in every county, and more than a dozen conservation areas are maintained for the bird. ducks: Compared to upland game birds like quail, pheasant and wild turkey, hunting waterfowl is more complex. in addition to a small-game-hunting permit, both a migratory bird-hunting permit and a federal duck stamp are required. More equipment, such as decoys and calls, is necessary, and hunters must be able to differentiate duck species on the wing. the daily limit is six birds, with additional limits by species. Missouri has three geographical zones with staggered dates for duck hunting: this year, the season opens in the north zone on oct. 29, and the south zone closes on Jan. 22. (Seasons vary by region and duck species.) MdC manages 15 wetland areas where duck hunters can find hunting sites.
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“I WENT FROM MAKING FUN OF MY hUNTING BUDDIES TO BECOMING ONE OF ThEM IN ABOUT 45 MINUTES.”
The Mississippi Flyway begins in the breeding grounds of the Prairie Pothole Region, which comprises Minnesota, the Dakotas, northern Montana and the southern parts of the Canadian provinces of Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba. It’s flat, and the last glaciers scraped out millions of puddles; it looks like Swiss cheese from the air. They call the Prairie Pothole Region the “Duck Factory” of North America. When it turns cold, the ducks start to fly south. They start in Canada, and in flight they start to funnel. The funnels are the Mississippi River in the U.S. and Mackenzie River in Canada, and they follow them: That’s the Mississippi Flyway.
Nationally, Missouri is known as a great place for turkey, a good deer place and certainly one of the greatest places for duck. In central and northern Missouri, we hunt in flooded cornfields, and down near the Bootheel, people hunt in rice fields. St. Louis has a duck-hunting tradition that’s extraordinary. It’s big in Kansas City along the Missouri River, too. We have three distinct and very, very successful areas in the state. And it’s very convenient: Some of the clubs in St. Charles County are 25 minutes from downtown Clayton. You can literally go from your desk to a duck blind in 30 minutes. There aren’t many places where urban and rural are that close together, but we’re blessed here. Our club, Wingshoot Farms, has nine guys and about 200 acres in Lincoln County. We’ve been together since 2000, one year after my first hunt. I went from making fun of my hunting buddies to becoming one of them in about 45 minutes. We have a nice setup, just like many of the other hundreds of clubs in St. Charles and Lincoln counties. You pull up and hit the button, the garage door opens and your ATV’s parked there. Everyone has a locker: Gear up and head out to the blinds. We’ve got nine blinds and really hunt five of them on two farms, so it’s spread out. We’re very spoiled. We show up at the blind, and it’s ready, and the decoys are out. (A blind is anything that you stand in, under or behind.) You want to blend in with your surroundings. If I’m standing in a cornfield, a bird can see me from 100 acres away, so you just want to break up the human outline. If you’re in the woods, hunters might build a blind above the water and then cover it with sticks, leaves, things like that. For 99 percent of the St. Charles
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“MY FAvOrITe PArT OF duCk HunTIng IS THe CAMArAderIe. IT’S ABOuT SPendIng TIMe WITH YOur CHILdren Or THe PeOPLe YOu’re HunTIng WITH.”
County and Lincoln County areas – the most popular duck areas in and around St. Louis – it is flooded cornfields or slough hunting, which is hunting in a natural swamp. The ideal day for duck hunting is overcast, windy and cold. For a perfect day, you’d love to see 4 feet of snow blanketing everything north of here and stopping in Hannibal, Missouri. Snow up north covers the fields and pushes the ducks down. But then you don’t want too much snow here because the ducks will blow through St. Louis and keep going. Once they’re here, you want it cold because the colder it is, the more they need to eat. They’ve got to keep eating to keep their “furnaces” going. If it’s 18ºF, they’ll be in the fields feeding all day. Supposedly, the ideal way to hunt would be to go sit in a field by yourself and not be distracted. I don’t know how many times I would ever do that… that has zero appeal to me. My favorite part of duck hunting is the camaraderie. It’s about spending time with your children or the people you’re hunting with. It’s absolutely a social activity. And it turns out, the people whom I enjoy most seem to enjoy duck hunting the most. All of my kids have come hunting. The boys have gravitated to it more than the girls, but they’ve all done it, and they’re all good at it. That’s been a tremendous bonding experience for me and my children. If my son Burke didn’t have to come indoors, he never would. As the oldest, he came along first, probably when he was 9 years old. I don’t think he held a gun – he just wanted to come with me and hang out. You sit and talk to each other: on the drive up, when you’re getting ready and showing him what to do, and when you’re trying to teach him how to identify the duck – “here’s what you do” or “work on your call.” My son Tommy is the best shot in the family. In this sense, it’s like golf: You have an activity that keeps you busy, but the truth is it’s an activity that keeps you busy so you can socialize. Wingshoot Farms has nine members, and on a weekend, there always seems to be 10 kids. And when I say kids, I’m saying 9- to 28-year-olds. The guys come home from college to hunt with their dads. I know every one of the members’ kids, and they know my kids. From the time you get there as a 9-year-old, you’re treated like an adult. People ask, “How is your son Burke so outgoing at 26?” I directly attribute it to when he was 9 years old hanging out at the duck club. He was hearing guys being guys, with the occasional bad language and maybe hearing a dirty joke. He had to figure out his way. He was in good hands, he was safe and there were nine “dads” who were going to smack him in the back of the head if he misbehaved. And when he did well, then there were nine guys who celebrated him and congratulated him. By the time he became a fishing guide in Montana at 17, he had been hanging around adults for the better part of his life.
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“A rAW WILD MALLArD’S brEAST IS DEEp rED bECAuSE THAT MuSCLE’S bEEN WOrKING HArD FrOM SASKATCHEWAN TO ST. LOuIS.”
We call the night before opening day Duck Eve. We go out to dinner, we go to the boats, we gamble and then we go up to Lincoln County and sleep at the club. It’s a metal pole barn in a floodplain, so we built an apartment 14 feet up. It’s got a pool table, a full kitchen, a deck, a couple of bedrooms, a 60-inch TV and 27,000 dead birds hanging on the walls. And a lot of mice. Duck Eve: It’s a tradition, and you look forward to it all year long. No matter what you’re hunting, most animal activity is around sunup and sundown. Shooting time is a half-hour before sunup, and it ends at sundown. It’s not subject to speculation. It’s set to the minute, and it varies as you go across the state – I think every 20 miles, you add a minute because the sun comes up and sets a minute later 20 miles west of here. Our club isn’t a good morning club because 10,000 to 15,000 birds roost on our property. If we go in the morning, the first time we shoot, 15,000 birds get up, and they’re gone. It’s better than any fireworks show you’ve ever seen. We hunt better in the afternoon as the birds are filtering back for two or three hours prior to sunset. After a hunt, we’ll put duck breasts in the refrigerator, and when we have three or four days’ worth, we’ll freeze them. A raw wild mallard’s breast is deep red because that muscle’s been working hard from Saskatchewan to St. Louis. At the end of the year, a bunch of us will take several hundred pounds of duck breast over to a place in Illinois, and they grind it up and make duck jerky or duck sausage, and it’s typically a 50-50 duck-pork ratio. A wild duck is really lean, and the pork fat brings it around. A lot of times, you spend the duck season eating what you shot last year. The other option is chefs Kevin Willmann, Kevin Nashan and Gerard Craft say they’ll take every one we can’t handle [to cook at home]. Gerard also served farm-fresh duck at Niche [sourced from Whetstone Farms near Hermann, Missouri]. Gerard said: “If we don’t have [fresh] ducks, we have store-bought. When we use that – exact same prep, exact same everything – the customer will say, ‘That’s a very tasty dish.’ If I put a [fresh] duck breast out, the customer will say, ‘That’s the best duck I’ve ever had.’” The flavor of wild duck is just intense – intense meaning really good until it isn’t. As with any wild-game dish, if you overcook it, it’s a bad meal. Getting it just right is a fine line, but if you hit it, it’s a meal to remember.
Gerard Craft is opening Sardella in the space that formerly housed Niche in Clayton, Missouri. Visit feastmagazine.com for Craft’s recipe for Missouri duck.
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Chefs and experts at the Missouri Department of Conservation’s Anita B. Gorman Conservation Discovery Center are teaching Kansas Citians how to tackle local fish and game meat.
SAINT LOUIS SCIENCE CENTER
WrItten by LIz MILLer James Worley has been hunting and fishing his whole life. He appreciates the distinct flavors and textures of local fish, game and waterfowl, and he even cooks with critters like squirrels and groundhogs. (Fried squirrel legs with cornbread and red-eye gravy is one of his favorite preparations.) For the past year, Worley has shared this passion with people across the Kansas City area. As an education specialist at the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC)’s Anita B. Gorman Conservation Discovery Center in Kansas City, Worley wanted to draw in a wider audience. The center has a full kitchen attached to a classroom that was underused, so in an effort to connect with the local food community, he developed Field to Fork. The series of classes features MDC experts demonstrating how to prepare fish and game meat, and then a Kansas City chef teaches participants how to make creative dishes with the protein. The first series, held last year from September to December, was a hit with both seasoned hunters and home cooks. “There’s almost always extra fish or game, so participants can clean their own,” Worley says. “Whatever they clean, they get to take home, so they can cook fresh game or fish on their own.” Worley asks guest chefs to demonstrate recipes that are approachable for home cooks yet highlight the special flavor and character of the meat. Each class is free to attend and planned to coincide with fishing and hunting seasons. “We’re hoping the people who attend these classes will want to learn how to hunt or fish, and we provide opportunities for them: mentors and fishing programs,” Worley says. “We’re trying to get to people’s hearts through their stomachs, and hopefully they’ll develop a passion for it.” At the first class, Brett Atkinson, chef-owner of Wilma’s food truck, served grilled watermelon and catfish tacos, catfish corn chowder and squirrel paella. For the paella, Worley recalls deboning about 20 squirrels and worrying that the demonstration might be too graphic for some folks, but fortunately, he says, “Nobody ran out screaming.”
com e celebrat co at e th e harves est BRING THE FAMILY AND ENJOY DEMOS, ACTIVITIES AND FOOD SPECIALS
APPLE WINE &
APPLE FEST PUMPKIN FEST EVENTS INCLUDE: SAMPLES OF
local pumpkin beer
Last November, Atkinson partnered with Craig Adcock, chef and co-owner of Table Ocho in Lenexa, Kansas, and Matt Kafka of Kansas City’s Local Pig on a class focused on venison. A whole 10-point buck was skinned and deboned in front of participants before the chefs got to work. “While the chefs are cooking the meat, the deer is still hanging in the room,” Worley says. “It was very intimate and very real. Everybody talks about trying to get close to their food and buying free-range, organic, whatever, and we were as close as you could get.” The chefs used the venison in a variety of dishes, including venison-braised osso buco with roasted root vegetables, a roulade of venison ham and venison backstrap carpaccio. “Most of the traditional recipes for wild game and fish, frankly, hide the flavors and hide the textures,” Worley says. “Deer chili is deer chili – it’s good, but it doesn’t really showcase the flavor of venison. When we made the venison backstrap carpaccio, we encrusted it with peppercorns and seared it a little bit, and people really understood the amazing texture and amazing flavors that wild game can have.” This month, Field to Fork will again host Pope, who will prepare Canada goose and wild turkey. Next month, Kansas City chefs Jasper J. Mirabile Jr. of Jasper’s Ristorante and the founders of Soil Collective will prepare venison, and in December, Martin Heuser, chef-owner of Affäre, will cook waterfowl. Worley says the MDC is hoping to launch a similar event series in St. Louis and Columbia, Missouri, although those plans are still in the early stages of development. Visit feastmagazine.com for wild game and fish recipes served at last year’s Field to Fork classes, plus this year’s class schedule.
EVENTS INCLUDE: GOURMET POPCORN WITH FLAVORS SUCH AS FRENCH TOAST, HOPPIN’ JALAPEÑO, AND APPLE CRISP
FARM FEST EVENTS INCLUDE: AN OPEN-AIR MARKET
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SLSC.ORG/FALLINTOSCIENCE GENERAL ADMISSION TO EVENTS ARE FREE. ADDITIONAL CHARGES MAY APPLY FOR SOME PROGRAMMING
816.759.7300, mdc.mo.gov Inspired Local Food Culture
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SOMETHING’S FISHy. In celebration of the great outdoors, we decided to go fish. This month, we invited our Instagram followers to share photos of fish and seafood – from fresh catches on fishing trips to the flaky fish tacos, grilled fish dishes, and fish and chips cooked at home or ordered at local restaurants – by using the hashtag #feastgram. Turn to p. 80 to go fly fishing with chef John Perkins, plus get six recipes for cooking over a campfire. Then, flip to p. 18 to learn about the seafood-studded poutine served at Louie’s Wine Dive in Kansas City.
| 1 | adam kustra @adkustra Great meal tonight at Público. #STL #DelmarLoop #Fish | 2 | the rieger @theriegerkc While it’s still summer, come by to try our bass with tomato rice grown in Missouri, #Succotash and #BeurreVert. | 3 | gus gus fun bus @gusgusfunbus Chipotle-lime shrimp tacos, Yo! Salsa restaurant, Wentzville, Missouri #Tacos #Shrimp #Shrimptacos @YolosMex
| 4 | russell ping @mugginsping Cooking at home tonight. | 5 | vista ramen @vistaramen What does an octopus wear when it’s cold? A coat of arms. // How many tickles does it take to make an ocotpus laugh? Ten. Tentickles. #Sorry #OctopusCeviche #CherokeeStreet | 6 | grace pritchett @glpritch We outsourced our Beer Tuesday to Char Bar. They’ve got lobster deviled eggs here, so we’re pretty happy with our choice.
| 7 | hiro asian kitchen
@hiroasiankitchen Holy CRAB Kamayan Night. #HiroSTL #Kamayan #Crab #EatLocalSTL
| 8 | howard hanna @howardamosa Had an incredible lunch @JarochoKC last week, including these giant freshwater #prawns, but I’m more excited I get to cook with @ChefCarlosFalcon this weekend for a @TheRiegerKC @Manifesto_KC @CaVaKC @JRiegerCo staff party! #BeautifulFoodForThePeople
| 9 | gerard craft @gerardcraft Little Sardella R&D... barramundi with mussels and its broth finished with sorrel butter, greens and herbs. #Sardella #Seafood
| 10 | edgewild bistro & tap
@edgewildbistrotap Chef Baggett’s fish special (wahoo) + our delightful patio = a great way to spend your Saturday night. Don’t take our word for it, come check it out for yourself. Photo by @EmilyAnn_Photo.
Want to see your photos in the November issue of Feast?
Next month, we’re celebrating the arrival of autumn with a favorite fall ingredient: pumpkin. We want to see the pumpkin dishes and drinks you’re making and ordering, from freshly baked pumpkin bread and pies to pumpkin beers. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Sat., Oct. 1. 98
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| 10 |
PHOTOGRAPHY COuRTESY INSTAGRAM uSERS
Inspired Local Food Culture
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We’ve got all of your favorite craft beers including seasonal brews and special releases. Our team of experts takes great care in curating our beer selection that includes many brewed locally! For a list of our Certified Beer Servers, visit Schnucks.com. And, follow Certified Beer Server Chris Wong @SpiritsSipsSuds and Certified Cicerone® Chris Kline @SchnucksBeerGuy!
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Published on Sep 23, 2016
Inspired by our love of nature, this issue of Feast is dedicated to the joys of fall in the Midwest. Crack open a cold one, find a place to...