made in st. louis
crafted in kansas city
brewed in ava, illinois
FRESH MASA
NOVEL RESTAURANT
FROM SCRATCH
Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
FALL FOR THE midwest
feastmagazine.com | OCTOBER 2014
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OCTOBER 2014
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Inspired Local Food Culture | Midwest
OCTOBER 2014 from the staff |8|
Meet OUr CONtrIBUtOrS
| 10 |
frOM the PUBLISher
Fall for the Midwest.
| 12 |
dIgItaL CONteNt
What’s online this month.
| 14 |
feaSt tv
A peek at the October episode.
| 17 |
DINe
This month we visit restaurants in st. louis, Kansas City and Washington, Missouri, and talk shop with chefs in Columbia, Missouri, and Kansas City as well as a farmer in Marine, illinois. in our monthly travel piece, Road Trip, writer Janie Pritchett-Clark takes a trip to Eureka springs, Arkansas, and shares where to dine, drink and stay in town. We also highlight two must-try dishes – an unexpected breakfast dish and a decadent buttermilk pound cake with espresso mousse.
| 49 | | 31 |
DrINK
We’re easing into October with beers from three breweries across the state of Missouri, gin cocktails shaken up in st. louis and organic black teas blended in Kansas City. senior editor liz Miller also visits Hermann, Missouri, for top-notch local wines and dining.
| 41 |
shoP
This month we visit two regional shops – one that brings an international market to the bustling delmar loop neighborhood in st. louis, and the other a resource for home brewers in Overland Park, Kansas. Also, find out what inspired the recent redesign at Kansas City’s Bluestem restaurant and how social media influences the work of st. louis designer Retta le Ritz.
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OCTOBER 2014
cooK | 50 | Seed tO taBLe Farmer Crystal stevens digs into root vegetable season with vegan sweet potato pub cheese.
| 52 | MyStery ShOPPer Buy it and try it: rambutan.
| 54 | MeNU OPtIONS indulge in hearty marinated pork tenderloin banh mi sandwiches with pickled carrots and shallots and homemade mayonnaise.
| 56 | Sweet IdeaS Pastry chef Christy Augustin shares how to make Missouri pecan financier with spiced pear butter.
COVER PHOTOGRAPHY OF THE CRisPY EGG disH AT NOVEl REsTAuRANT iN KANsAs CiTY (P. 90) BY Landon Vonderschmidt TABlE OF CONTENTs PHOTO OF CORN ANd GRAiN (P. 66) BY Travis Duncan
FEATURES Masa For the Masses
60
Brothers Adam and Jason Tilford own four of St. Louis’ most popular Mexican eateries. Go behind the scenes of their latest venture, making fresh masa, which ups the quality and flavor of the tortillas and tamales served in their restaurants.
creative spirit
66
Senior editor Liz Miller visits newly opened Wood Hat Spirits in New Florence, Missouri, to find out how the distillery transforms blue, yellow and white corn into craft spirits with imagination.
rare breed
76
Writer Stephanie Hall travels to Norwalk, Iowa, to meet the founders of La Quercia, an acclaimed cured meat company that uses meat from heritage breed pigs to produce award-winning products.
FroM the ground up
82
The trio of brewers at Scratch Brewing Co. in Ava, Illinois, draw inspiration and ingredients from the wilderness that surrounds the brewery. Writer Ian Froeb shares how the brewers take forest-foraged ingredients and use them to make outstanding native ales.
Masterpiece in the Making
90
When Kansas City-native Ryan Brazeal opened Novel restaurant in his hometown last year, he challenged diners to expect the unexpected. Writer Jonathan Bender gets inside the mind of the chef to learn what inspires his work, how the restaurant and its menu have evolved and what he hopes for the restaurant’s future.
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
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Magazine Volume 5
| Issue 10 | October 2014
EDITORIAL Publisher Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com Senior Editor Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Senior Digital Editor Kristin Brashares, web@feastmagazine.com Assistant Editor Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor Jenny Vergara Proofreader Christine Wilmes Editorial Assistant Matt Duchesne Contributing Writers Christy Augustin, Tory Bahn, Jonathan Bender, Shannon Cothran Pete Dulin, Ian Froeb, Stephanie Hall, Kyle Harsha, Valeria Turturro Klamm, Janie Pritchett-Clark, Ryan Sciara, Matt Seiter, Matt Sorrell Crystal Stevens, Michael Sweeney, Shannon Weber ART Art Director Lisa Allen, art@feastmagazine.com Assistant Art Director Alexandrea Doyle, adoyle@feastmagazine.com Contributing Photographers Brad Austin, Chad Cogdill, Travis Duncan, Jonathan Gayman, Aaron Lindberg, Demond Meek, Aaron Ottis, Jennifer Silverberg Alistair Tutton, Landon Vonderschmidt, Cheryl Waller FEAST TV
producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Forever An Astronaut
Judd Demaline, Cameron Hill, Alessio Summerfield SALES InquIRIES Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com COnTACT uS Feast Media, 900 N. Tucker Blvd., 4th Floor, St. Louis, MO 63101 314.340.8562, feastmagazine.com DISTRIbuTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Jeff Moore at jmoore@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright Š 2010-2014 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC
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OCTOBER 2014
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contributors
Open Again
10.14 landon vonderschmidt Kansas City, Photographer Landon Vonderschmidt, a Kansas City-based photographer, has a creative eye paired with hands-on experience. Specializing in the food industry, he’s had the pleasure of working with local restaurants, publications and events. He’s been the contributing photographer for the advertising campaign for Kansas City Restaurant Week for the past four years, a creative committee member for The Bloom Party, benefiting the Kansas City CARE Clinic and a lead photographer for the West 18th Street Fashion Show. In his spare time, Landon likes a chilled white wine spritzer, vacationing with friends, hitting up New York and Instagram.
Inn at Brazil Creek a unique inn • Hiking • Floating offering • Biking • Golf • Horseback Riding • Fishing fine dining and beautiful accommodations Stacey Bailey Geddes, chatelaine Bourbon, Missouri 573-732-2288 www.baileysinn.com
stephanie hall Des Moines, Writer Stephanie Hall has written about (and tasted) the gamut of Iowa’s pork offerings, from Des Moines’ Blue Ribbon Baconfest to the Iowa State Fair’s pork chop on a stick. In this issue of Feast, she covers La Quercia, an Iowa-based cured meat company that works with heritage breed farms in Iowa and across the Midwest. Stephanie is a Des Moines native and Truman State University graduate and has previously written for Midwest Living and Better Homes and Gardens. She captures her love for local food at desmoinesisnotboring.com and her love of ice cream at antisprinkle.com.
jenny vergara Kansas City, Contributing Editor As a food writer, restaurant marketer and culinary event planner, Jenny Vergara knows what’s good and what’s going on in the food scene in Kansas City. In addition to her new role as contributing editor for Feast and writer for the magazine’s news blog, The Feed, Jenny also writes a food blog, The Making of a Foodie. She is perhaps most well known as the founder of Kansas City’s first underground supper club, The Test Kitchen, which has now expanded to include chapters in Missouri and Oklahoma. Her tribe of faithful followers is more than 5,000 strong.
jonathan gayman St. Louis, Photographer Jonathan Gayman is a commercial photographer based in St. Louis with a focus on food, beverage and product photography. His keen eye for light and composition fuel thoughtful and inspired photography, whether he is shooting in St. Louis, Chicago, New York or on location around the country. Jonathan is a regular contributor to many food publications, including Feast, and his work has been used in national and global advertisements, marketing materials and annual reports for some of the nation’s top businesses.
kyle harsha St. Louis, Writer Kyle Harsha started his 20-plus year career in the food and wine industry as a host at a TGI Friday’s in high school and went on to work in nearly every role available – from frying chicken at a fast-food joint to managing high-end steak houses. He then got into wholesale wine sales, obtaining his Certified Sommelier and Certified Specialist of Wine designations along the way. He loves seeking out new and interesting places to enjoy a drink and is just as comfortable at a dive bar as he is at a restaurant with a 50-page wine list. He believes that “if you like something, don’t be embarrassed; go ahead and drink it. Just be open to new ideas.” When people ask him what wine or bourbon is his favorite, he is likely to respond “the one in my glass.” He lives in south St. Louis county with his wife and dog.
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OCTOBER 2014
EXPERIENCE ST. LOUIS’ BEST EATING
FRESH • LOCAL • FUN
DINE IN GOOD COMPANY
INDULGE YOURSELF WITH ST. CHARLES’ #1 BBQ • VISIT US TODAY!
1200 S. MAIN STREET, ST. CHARLES • HENDRICKSBBQ.COM • 636.724.8600
AUTHENTIC FRESH MEXICAN FARE • TEQUILA • COME TASTE THE FUN! 4198 MANCHESTER, ST. LOUIS • DIABLITOSCANTINA.COM • 314.644.4430 Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
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publisher’s letter
food offers more than sustenance. eating, having a relationship to food, is the one thing that we all have in common
FeAst eVeNts Feast in the park Now to Oct., 5 to 8pm; rotating St. Louis County Parks
This weekly festival gathers mobile eats and popular bands in parks across St. Louis County.
Clayton Farmers’ Market Now to Oct., 4:30 to 7:30pm Thursdays; North Central Ave., Clayton, Missouri; claytonfarmersmarket.com
The market supports local farmers and spotlights organic and natural foods and unique specialties.
and the food we enjoy and
schnucks Cooks pork banh Mi
share with others creates
Wed., Oct. 22, 6 to 9pm; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School
connection between
$40, 314.909.1704 or schnuckscooks.com
communities. It is in that
Join us in the kitchen and learn how to make pork banh mi sandwiches with pickled carrots and
spirit that I present the
shallots and homemade mayonnaise.
first regional issue of
Whole Foods 4th Annual Chili Cook-Off
Feast Magazine.
Sat., Oct. 11, 1 to 4pm; Town & Country location;
This month’s episode of Feast TV explores the flavors of a Midwest autumn. From whiskey to beer, we take you behind the scenes of some of our region’s food-and-beverage innovators. Turn to p. 15 for air dates and times.
Feast launched in St.
wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/townandcountry
Cast your vote for the best grass-fed beef chili
Louis in 2010, developed
recipe prepared by Whole Foods Market’s very
as a media platform that
own team members at this fun and free event.
celebrates and explores the culinary world in and around the St. Louis area. When I launched Feast those four-plus years ago, it was with the intention that when the time was right we would expand the magazine to cover the
Funeral of a Friend rare Whiskey tasting Nov. 1 and Dec. 10, 6 to 9pm; Sanctuaria, The Grove, St. Louis, $125 per person, reservations required,
entire region. Feast is in this position today because of the immense growth
sanctuariastl.com
of interest in the food-and-drink industry – the expansion of Feast reflects
After passed hors d’oeuvres and a memorial
the expanding passion for culinary authenticity and quality. I am beyond excited to say that Feast is now distributed across the state of Missouri, from St. Louis to Kansas City, and we are dedicated to actively covering the full breadth and depth of the food culture of our region.
libation, there will be a three-course dinner with three tastings of rare bourbon, three cocktails made with the bourbon and a seminar detailing the Life of a Barrel, led by mixologist Matt Seiter.
ballpark Village brew Fest Nov. 8, 1 to 5pm; Ballpark Village, Downtown St. Louis,
In these pages, you’ll meet the people and visit the places that help define the flavor of our vibrant, bustling cities, our charming towns and the rolling beauty of our countryside, which is home to verdant farms and bountiful vineyards. The team behind Feast is dedicated to bringing you, our readers, insightful content that delights and educates. My hope is that by reading Feast in print and online at feastmagazine.com and watching Feast TV on your local PBS affiliate,
prices vary, stlballparkvillage.com
The Ballpark Village Brew Fest is a celebration of home brewing, featuring local home-brewed beers, live music, food and beer pairings, street performances and St. Louis beer history.
the st. louis Food & Wine experience Jan. 23, 24 and 25, repstl.org/events
you will not only learn about what’s happening in your own hometown, you’ll
The weekend of Jan. 23 to 25, 2015, marks the
also be inspired to explore the entirety of the region and meet the passionate
13th Annual St. Louis Food & Wine Experience, an
creators – the chefs, bartenders, shop keepers, brewers, vintners, distillers,
epicurean paradise. Look forward to a fine wine VIP reserve room, exciting new food vendors and
farmers and producers – who make this such a delicious place to call home.
more than 700 wines to sample, all to benefit The
Until next time,
Cat’s picks
Repertory Theatre of St. Louis.
Wednesdays, 8:35am , The BIG 550 KTRS
Tune in as Feast publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.
Catherine Neville publisher@feastmagazine.com
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OCTOBER 2014
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Congrats to FEAST on spreading to
Join us for tasty botanical-based drinks and fall-themed fun for adults every Friday night in October—from a bestselling author’s favorite cocktails and a digital scavenger hunt to samplings from your favorite local breweries and distilleries. Learn more and get your tickets at
www.mobot.org/spirits BEST OF MISSOURI MARKET & MORE: FIRST LOOK FRIDAY OCTOBER 3
Kansas City.
THE DRUNKEN BOTANIST WITH AUTHOR AMY STEWART OCTOBER 10
Next time you visit St. Louis, come dine with us.
FEST-OF-ALE OCTOBER 17
We Utilize Local, Farm fresh ingredients and focus on providing you with an authentic italian and French Dining experience.
ACERO
7266 Manchester Rd., Maplewood, MO 314-644-1790 M-Th 5-9pm • Fri/Sat 5-10pm
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WICKED PLANTS OCTOBER 24 SPIRITS IN THE GARDEN: CREEPY CRAWL OCTOBER 31
4344 Shaw Blvd. • St. Louis, MO 63110 ( 3 1 4 ) 5 7 7- 5 1 0 0 • w w w . m o b o t . org
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
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DIGITAL CONTENT
hungry for more?
PHOTOGRAPHy By Cat Neville
feastmagazine.com
connect with us daily:
FACEbook. Check out behind-the-scenes photos
from our recent Feast TV shoots (like Scratch Brewing in Ava, Illinois) at facebook.com/feastmag.
PHOTOGRAPHy By Cat Neville
TWITTER. Follow @feastmag to see where we’re
drinking across the region, including a recent stop at Pirtle Winery in Weston, Missouri.
PHOTOGRAPHy By Rob Grimm
PInTEREST. Get fall-perfect recipes (like red chile duck posole) on our Featured Recipes board at pinterest.com/feastmag.
PHOTOGRAPHy By Chad Cogdill
PHOTOGRAPHy By Linda Huynh
onLInE ExTRA: St. Louis bartender Matt Seiter sits down with friend and fellow mixologist Ryan Maybee (pictured
above) of Kansas City’s The Rieger Hotel Grill & Exchange to chat about the inspiration behind Maybee’s The Pendergast cocktail (p. 34). Read the full interview with Maybee at feastmagazine.com. SPECIAL GIVEAWAY: Subscribe to Feast today to never miss a single serving of inspired local food culture. This
month, you can also enter to win a one-year subscription: Just head to the Promotions section at feastmagazine. com for all the details.
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InSTAGRAm. Hashtag your local food and drink photos with #Feastgram for a chance to see them in Feast! Details on p. 98.
Watch our videos and Feast TV.
youtube.com/FeastMagazine
Murder Mystery Dinner
Can Sherlock Holmes and his fellow detectives solve a murder mystery at the Saint Louis Science Center?
“Murder on the Disoriented Express” will put you into the action as a murder occurs and the mystery unfolds on November 6. Are you a suspect?
Date and Time: November 6, 2014 at 6:30pm Where: Saint Louis Science Center Tickets: $60 per person Tickets include performance, dinner, hors d’oeuvres, dessert and one drink ticket. The International Exhibition of Sherlock Holmes will open at 5:30pm for complimentary investigation. Advance reservations are required. This is a 21 and older event.
For tickets call 314.289.4424 or visit slsc.org/murdermysteries.
INDULGE IN CITY LIVING
At 1904 Steak House, an appetite for the best is always welcome. Come savor a selection of prime, dry-aged steak and delicious seafood dishes. Proudly featuring our 1904 Filet Oscar Trio Grilled asparagus, petite filets topped with seared jumbo scallop, grilled colossal shrimp, King Crab and Béarnaise. For reservations, call 888.578.7289 or visit rivercity.com.
888.578.7289 | rivercity.com ©2014 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
13
FEAST TV
TV
Look for the Feast TV splat throughout the magazine. It tells you which articles are part of this month’s episode! Get a taste of Vietnam in this month’s episode of Feast TV. Publisher Cat Neville will teach you how make pork banh mi with pickled shallots and carrots and homemade mayonnaise.
watch this month’s episode to:
Segment 1: Venture to Ava, Illinois, for a sip of Scratch brewing’s deliciously unique forestforaged craft beers.
Segment 2: Find out how brothers Adam and Jason Tilford are making their own masa out of a small factory on The Hill in St. Louis.
PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg
Segment 3: Get a firsthand look at the making of Wood Hat’s one-of-a-kind locally sourced whiskeys and bourbons.
Segment 4: Join us in the kitchen at Novel in Kansas City for a taste of chef Ryan brazeal’s reimagined New American cuisine.
feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors: MIssOuRI WINes
WHOLe FOOds MaRkeT
ROTH LIVING
In October, reach for a bottle of baltimore bend’s MO Gold. Feast TV producer Cat Neville pairs it with pork banh mi by Schnucks Cooks Cooking School’s chef Tory bahn.
Get cooking at home! Pick up the ingredients and recipe from Cat Neville’s Feast TV demo at both St. Louis-area locations of Whole Foods Market.
Roth Living curates innovation and luxury in high-end appliances. Explore Roth’s St. Louis showroom to experience an appliance’s true performance and create the inspired kitchen of your dreams.
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OCTOBER 2014
WATCH FEAST ON THESE NETWORKS
Experience Lavender at Winding Brook Estate
Relax
and enjoy a lavender pastry, hot tea, soda or ice cream.
Devoured the magazine and still
hungry for
MORE?
Shop
for everything lavender, all occasion gifts, gourmet food, home decor & more.
Explore
how to use lavender for health, beauty and well-being.
Upcoming Events at the Lavender Farm Lavender Tea Lunch - Oct. 4, 24 Public Lavender Talk - Oct. 11 Sample Saturday - Oct. 18 Holiday Open House - Nov. 11 thru 15 Wreath Making Class - Nov. 21 & Dec. 2,13
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Oct. 4 at 2pm and Mon., Oct. 6 at 1pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
Visit WindingBrookEstate.com for details and to make reservations as required. Book a Fall Group Tour, Lunch or Class minimum of 10 persons.
Stay on top of the local food scene with our free weekly enewsletter. Subscribe now at
feastmagazine.com , 3 Winding Brook Estate Dr. Eureka, MO
636.575.5572 WindingBrookEstate.com
and you’ll get fresh content delivered to your inbox every Tuesday!
Open Tues. thru Sat. 10 am to 4 pm
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Oct. 18 at 2:30pm and then later that afternoon on KCPT2 (19.2) at 3:30pm.
Bone Appétit! BE THE ENVY OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD WITH THE BEST HALLOWEEN PARTY FAVORS
You can watch Feast TV throughout midMissouri on KMOS (Channel 6) at 8:30pm on Thu., Oct. 23 and 6:30pm on Sun., Oct. 26.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU and WUSI beginning in November. Check wsiu.org or feastmagazine.com for listings.
PLAZA FRONTENAC | 32 MARYLAND PLAZA WWW.BISSINGERS.COM
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
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OCTOBER 2014
must-try dish
check out what’s for breakfast on p. 28
where we’re dining kansas city
q39 written by
Pete dulin
PHOtOGrAPHy by Alistair Tutton
Q39 has generated excitement on west 39th Street, known as Kansas City’s restaurant row, since its arrival earlier this year. while new to the city’s ’cue scene, it’s impressive that Q39 made Zagat’s list of the Hottest bbQ Joints Across the U.S. the modernrustic restaurant combines competition-level barbecue with woodfired grill dishes. Award-winning chef rob Magee’s ingredientdriven menu reveals his attention to detail, with highlights including barbecue sliders with a trio of meats, the apple-brined pulled pork sandwich and the Pitmaster brisket with onion straws. the wood-fired grilled salmon salad and smoked chicken cobb salad are healthful, full-flavored options. tart bits of green apple in creamy coleslaw brighten the classic side dish, while white bean cassoulet offers a savory alternative to baked beans. For spud lovers, the potato salad has a hint of tarragon, and chipotle ketchup perks up the house-cut fries. Pro tip: Order at the to-go counter and eat outdoors, weather permitting, if it’s crowded inside. Q39, 1000 W. 39th St., 39th Street neighborhood, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.255.3753, q39kc.com
muST-Try diSh
st. louis
pumpkin spice latte cake written by
Liz miller
in collaboration with Kaldi’s Coffee roasting Co., St. Louis chef russell Ping has developed a selection of seasonal desserts using the Missouri company’s espresso, which are available for purchase in his two cafés. Grab a slice of the Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake, a buttermilk pound cake filled with Kaldi’s espresso mousse and spiced pumpkin mousse topped with vanillacinnamon buttercream. Russell’s on Macklind, 5400 Murdoch Ave., Southampton, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.553.9994, and Russell’s Café & Bakery, 952 Brookwood Center, Fenton, 636.343.8900, russellscafe.com
P H Ot
%PG 18
feastSTL.com %MO %YEAR feastmagazine.com OCTOBER 2014
OGrAP
H y by
Cheryl w aller
ONE ON ONE
With steak this good. who needs a clever headline?
kansas city
michael corvino
Located in the Historic Chase Park Plaza
executive chef, the american restaurant written by Pete Dulin
Since arriving at The American Restaurant in July 2013, chef Michael Corvino has overhauled the menu format and cultivated renewed interest among Kansas City diners. He offers seven, 10 and 15-course tasting menus, plus à la carte selections for appetizers, cheese, entrées and dessert. Corvino honed his skills at luxury hotels for more than a decade as the former executive sous chef at the rosewood Mansion on turtle Creek in Dallas, texas. Corvino’s refined techniques, smart use of ingredients and artistic plating bring a modern sensibility to the American’s dining and bar menus.
325 S Main St, Saint CharleS, MO 63301
www.bellavinOwinebarStl.COM (636) 724-3434
Aaron Lindberg
The American Restaurant, 200 E. 25th St., Suite 400, Downtown, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.545.8001, theamericankc.com
Fall into the seasons at Bella Vino with 1/2 off all bottles of Wine every Wednesday night
PHOTOGRAPHy by
How have you adapted to Kansas City’s dining scene? i knew i couldn’t do one large menu format with a four-hour meal like the French Laundry; you don’t have enough people here for that niche. the American was ready for a change. My goal was to have four people sit and share dishes. ninety percent of sales are seven to 10-course tastings. i’m surprised at how well it’s gone over. i’ve seen restaurants offer so many menu decisions that it is overwhelming. it’s fantastic to have diners put themselves in my hands. How has the bar menu changed? you can only get so many people here for a four-hour meal. People want to spend money on better food; it’s one of the most enjoyable things you can do. So the bar menu plays off the main menu with à la carte options. it’s gastropub style, what you want to eat in a bar with beer. A huge focus of mine is to bring in great beer from all over but offer quality over quantity. Have you put any service changes in place? My influence on the front of the house is more of a mindset. i’m not going to change specific steps in service. the mindset is to give people an enjoyable experience that’s not so formal. it’s more comfortable and casual but not dumbed down. Where do you find inspiration for new dishes? i create a collaborative environment with my sous chef, pastry chef and general manager, Jamie Jamison. this [past] summer, i [had] a seven-course tasting menu paired with rieslings inspired by my travels in napa and Seattle. i like to keep the menu fresh and have a completely different tasting menu every two to three weeks. i use ingredients at their height, available during small windows of time. What trends have you seen developing in the industry? if i opened a restaurant here, it would be completely casual service with seafood and vegetable tastings to show people how amazing produce can be. Over the past couple of years, i’ve seen more collaboration dinners between chefs. it allows guests to experience another chef’s food. i want to invite more chefs to come here and cook.
For Reservations, Call 314.361.0900 or Visit www.tenderloinroom.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
19
ONE ON ONE columbia,mo.
whErE wE’rE diNiNg st. louis
brook harlan
culinary arts instructor, columbia area career center culinary arts program written by
Valeria Turturro Klamm
The Columbia Area Career Center (CACC) Culinary Arts program trains high school sophomores, juniors and seniors in basic to advanced methods of culinary arts, baking and pastry-making. For 12 years straight, the Missouri state champion competing in the SkillsUSA national conference for culinary arts has been a CACC student. in 2014, for the fourth time in the past five years, a CACC student took home the Culinary Arts national Champion title. “that’s kind of unheard of,” says brook Harlan, CACC culinary arts instructor. Is training for SkillsUSA the main goal of the program? Our biggest thing is trying to give students a head start in the industry and understand what they’re getting into. we don’t want to sugarcoat anything. you have to really do it because you love it. work ethic and passion surpass education. we have them scrubbing pots; there’s no custodial cleaning: from the ceiling to the floor to the trash, composting and recycling. we want them to learn about all aspects of the kitchen. they also have to be able to be efficient at it; they need to think about their flow and how they move. A lot of those things will help them in any job they go into. How has the program grown over the years? when the program began 17 years ago, it transitioned from restaurant management to culinary arts with one chef and 16 students cooking in a kitchen in the basement of Hickman High School [in Columbia]. today, four full-time chefs and one part-time chef teach nearly 200 students in five industrial kitchens throughout four campuses – CACC and Hickman, rock bridge and battle high schools. How does the program compare to others in Missouri? we have a lot of programs in the state, but i think our benefit is being in a town like Columbia. we have one career center as opposed to several different ones that are spread out. we are able to have four classes a day [with] five chefs. no other high school program in the state has four fulltime chefs and one part-time chef. Our positive placement PHOTOGRAPHy By Jennifer Silverberg
rate is more than 80 percent, meaning students are either going into a restaurant to work, hotel or restaurant management training in college or junior college, or they’re working in the culinary world part time. What role does the community play? we have great support from the community. in addition to administrative funding and enhancement grants, we’ve started doing fundraisers to be able to cook throughout the year. we make andouille sausage and stocks for restaurants and the public. At thanksgiving we have a buffet and turkeys for people to pick up. in order to raise money to go to the SkillsUSA national conference, the students will cook 600 omelets at the farmers market and hold a 10-course dinner for 140 people at Les bourgeois PHOTOGRAPHy By Aaron Ottis
Vineyards. Students have hands-on experience; then they have that big “aha!” moment when they realize they’re not just messing around with food but instead giving it to a person. that’s what every plate needs to be. Columbia Area Career Center, 4203 S. Providence Road, Columbia, Missouri, 573.214.3800, career-center.org
grapeseed
wRITTen By Bethany Christo
Grapeseed opened in St. Louis’ Southampton neighborhood late last month, and in many ways, is the quintessential neighborhood restaurant. Grapeseed’s made-from-scratch food and cocktail menus were developed in collaboration with chef-owner Ben Anderson, of now-shuttered Gist Bistro, and chef de cuisine Jon Olson. “I couldn’t take my dog around the block without three people asking when we were going to open,” says Anderson, whose ties to Grapeseed are stronger than his other ventures – he lives in the apartment above it. The restaurant features a seasonal and locally sourced menu with an emphasis on affordability. Small plates range from gnocchi with Brussels sprouts and pecans to roasted butternut squash salad with arugula, pumpkin seeds and Cotija cheese, to entrées such as five-spice encrusted wild salmon with pineapple and hearty housemade pasta and burger options. The bar features six local beers on tap, a creative cocktail list and a dozen wine pairing options. Abstract paintings of all sizes hang on the walls near the Mwanzi-made tables in the well-lit dining room. It’s truly a neighborhood space to come, sip, catch up, slow down and enjoy well-crafted contemporary cuisine. Grapeseed, 5400 nottingham Ave., Southampton, St. Louis, Missouri, grapeseedstl.com
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OCTOBER 2014
COMPAGNIE KÄFIG APR 24 & 25 2015 TOUHILL PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET OCT 10 & 11 2014 TOUHILL PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
FEB 27 & 28 2015 TOUHILL PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
DANCE THEATRE OF HARLEM NOV 7 & 8 2014 TOUHILL PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
OCT 8 2014 FOX THEATRE
TANGO BUENOS AIRES
JAN 30 & 31 2015 TOUHILL PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
STOMP
APR 10 – 12 2015 FOX THEATRE
DIRTY DANCING OCT 21 – NOV 2 2014 FOX THEATRE
TICKETS: 314.534.6622 DANCESTLOUIS.ORG
PRESENTING SEASON SPONSOR
SUPPORTING SEASON SPONSOR
Happy Hour EVERYDAY begins at 4pm! Drink specials all night. Special Combo meals for two starting at $30 (includes 2 entrees and 2 drinks) Private Party Room, call for reservations. Lunch Hours: Tuesday - Friday 11:00am - 2:30pm Saturday - Sunday 11:00am - 3:00pm Dinner Hours: Tuesday - Thursday & Sunday 4:00pm - 9:30pm Friday - Saturday 4:00pm - 10:00pm
3155 South Grand • St. Louis, MO. 63118 • 314.771.1777 • kingandistl.com
The Vine Café and Market The Vine is a traditional Lebanese Restaurant where we take pride in our authentic flavors. Our menu is created from family recipes served for generations. It is our goal to bring the comfort and spirit of the Mediterranean to St. Louis, whether it’s freshly baked pita bread or the daily selection of sweets, every dish from our kitchen carries the love of a home cooked meal.
Cafe - Market - Bakery
3171 South Grand • St. Louis • 314.776.0991 • thevinestl.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
21
where we’re dining washington, mo.
the blue duck
WRiTTen BY
Liz Miller
From almost every seat at The Blue Duck in
and fried duck wing with black olive-caramel
Missouri wine or regional craft beer, including
The Blue Duck, 516 W. Front St., Suite
Washington, Missouri, guests can gaze upon
sauce. Seafood dishes are also highlights,
selections from 4 Hands Brewing Co., Charleville
100, Washington, Missouri, 636.390.9131,
the mighty Missouri River while they dine. The
including cod and clams with marinated and
Brewing Co., Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., Tin
riverfront restaurant applies a creative touch
grilled artichokes and tomatoes bathed in a
Mill Brewing Co. and more.
blueduckcafebakery.com pHOTOGRApHY BY Aaron Ottis
to comfort food made with high-quality, locally
white wine and garlic cream sauce and seared
sourced ingredients. Shareable plates range
sea bass with whipped sweet potatoes, tomato,
from the usual bar fare – smoked chicken wings
cilantro and red curry beurre blanc
tossed in housemade spicy barbecue sauce – to
sauce. Wash your meal down
the more unexpected, like chile oil-marinated
with a craft cocktail,
smoked mussels with arugula-tomato-bacon pesto. The restaurant offers a robust selection of soups, salads and sandwiches, but the real stars are found on its entrée menu, where the kitchen has fun with down-home classics in dishes like smoked fried chicken served with garlic mashed potatoes, fried spinach, a buttermilk biscuit waffle and pickled pepper gravy, and in the eponymous red winebraised duck dish, which plates a duck quarter
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feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
Fabulous Finds (Making A Curtain Call)
*Aunt Maggie© s Family Restaurant 230 N. Main St. • 618-281-7894
Our Second Location To Find Wonderful! 632 North Main Street Columbia, IL 62236 (618) 281-1952
*Chateau La Vin 119 S. Main St. • 618-281-8117 Oct 9, 5-9pm: Oct 10, dusk: Oct 25, 10am-12:30pm: Oct 31, 5:30-8pm:
Witches Ghoulish Night Out Movies at Metter Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs Halloween Hi-jinks Scare Square and Pumpkin
Fashion Attic Consignment Shop 128 S Main St. • 618-281-7467 *Fabulous Finds 315 N. Main St. • 618-281-1952
Tues., Wed. & Fri. 10-4 Thursday 10-6 Saturday 10-4
DaILy DrINK & FOOD SpeCIaLS Tiny’s Pub & Grill 602 N. Main St. Columbia, IL 62236
618-281-9977
*Imo’s Pizza 1450 Evergreen • 618-281-5552 *Joe Boccardi© s Ristorante 117 S. Main St.• 618-281-6700 FREE Birthday Dinner
Now Serving Breakfast Fri, Sat, Sun 7am - 10:30am
(with ID)
Menu & Buffet Dining
(Lunch & Dinner) Tues. - “Senior Day”: Buy 1 Meal Get 1 Meal 50% OFF w/ purchase chase of a drink Wed. - Chicken Chick & Dumplings German Fri. - Fish Cuisine & Music Sat. (pm) - Prime Rib Every Sat in Oct! Sun. - All Da Day Buffet
SPECIALTY ITEMS
• Broasted Fried Chicken • German & Hungarian Cuisine • American Dishes • Wine & Beer (on Thursdays and 3rd Sundays)
Mondays: Closed • Tues - Thurs: 11am - 8pm Fri & Sat: 7am - 9pm • Sunday: 7am - 7pm
GrILL OpeN Sun-Wed 11-8 pm | Thur-Sat 11-9 pm Pub open til 1 am.
618-281-7894
t E IN EN EN os 's W RD OPc mSat i A G W us i & O M Fr Ne , v s Li ur Th
Full Lunch & Dinner Menu Now Available!!
230 N. Main Columbia, IL
15% OFF First Glass of Wine Offer Expires 10/31/14
Great Wines, Specialty Beers, Spirits & Wine Accessories
- Roseberry Farms special handcrafted scented soaps & bakery mixes - Unique fall themed home decor & gift items - Special "rare" book section including books over 200 yrs. old
chateaulavin.com
603 N. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236
Wine Bar Open: Tues.-Thurs.2-9pm, Fri. & Sat. 2-11pm, Sun.2-7pm
LOCATED IN THE “OLD DISTILLERY”
119 South Main Street, Columbia, IL 618.281.8117
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK
$8 OFF
Authentic Italian Brick Oven!
(618) 520-0850
Sun & Mon Closed. • Tues & Wed 10am-4pm Thurs & Fri Noon-8pm • Sat. 10am-4pm
Offer expires 10/31/14
117 S. Main St., Columbia, IL 62236
618-281-6700
www.joeboccardis.com
618-281-2020 608 North Main St. Columbia, IL 62236 www.grillandgrape.com Daily lunch and dinner specials
Black Angus Steaks & Burgers Appetizers • Salads • Sandwiches • Fish Brick Oven Pizzas • Desserts
618-710-0200
700 North State St. Freeburg, IL 62243
*Our Coffee House Café 125 N. Rapp St. • 618-281-4554 *Reifschneider’s Grill & Grape 608 N. Main St. • 618-281-2020 *Roseberry Farms Antiques, Books & Collectibles 603 N. Main St. • 618-520-0850 *Tiny’s Pub & Grill 602 N. Main St. • 618-281-9977 *Who Dat© s Southern Food 602 N. Main St. • 618-281-2229 *See ad for more information
Our Coffee House & Cafe Serving The Finest Gourmet Coffee
Offering fine jewelry, fashion & gifts Fine Jewelry at Wholesale Prices! Holiday Registry! Shop Early! Layaway Available!!
618.698.0270
115 West Gundlach St. Columbia, IL
• Daily Specials ! • Meats Smoked In-House • Large Outdoor Patio • 11 Flat Screen TVs • 12 Beers on Tap, Imported and Specialty Micro Brews • Extensive Wine List • Kitchen Open Late
Private Parties Available
Memory Lane Gifts & Floral 515-B N. Main St. • 618-281-4538
Purchase of $35 or More
Antiques, Books, Collectibles & Home Decor
JUST ARRIVED!!!
Magnolia 208 N. Main St. • 618-281-8083
Lunch & Dinner Menu
HOURS:
Karaoke Wed & Fri 9pm Open Mic Night Thurs 7pm
*K.A.T. Jewelry Boutique & Gifts 115 W. Gundlach St. • 618-698-0270
Come enjoy Lunch, Dinner or Drinks at our Columbia Location!
Homemade • Quiche• Pot Pies • Soups • Chicken Salad • Pies & Desserts • Variety of Hot Panini Sandwiches
FREE
Coffee or Tea
with purchase of breakfast or lunch over $5.00 Offer Expires 10/31/14
Serving: Breakfast & Lunch Daily Dinner Wednesday Evening Hours: Mon, Tues, Thurs, Fri 6am-4pm Wed 6am-8pm • Sat 7am-4pm • Sun 8am-2pm
125 Rapp Street Columbia, IL 62236 ourcoffeehousecafe.com 618-281-4554
New Orleans Boy Meets Local Girl
Oct 4 - Shrimp Boil 12-7pm
12" TWOTOPPING PIZZA
9
$ 95
Must mention coupon when ordering. Only one coupon per purchase. Tax not included. Delivery Additional. Not good with any other offer. EXPIRES 10/31/14
1450 Evergreen (Columbia, IL)
618-281-5552
CARRY-OUT • DINE-IN • DELIVERY OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK
Live Music -3 Rock Box 3-7 pm Nov 8 - Oyster Fest 12-7 pm Live Music 3-7 pm Southern Cuisine and Best Gooey Butter Cake in St. Louis! Hours: Tuesday - Saturday 11-9pm
123 South Main St • Columbia, IL 62236 Phone: 618-281-2229 Email:whodatstakeout@yahoo.com • www.whodatsrestaurant.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
23
road triP eureka springs, ar.
PHOTOGrAPHy COUrTESy OF
destination:
eureka springs, arkansas WrITTEN By Janie Pritchett-Clark
sleep
eat
DeVito’s of Eureka Springs The DeVito family has been farming trout in the Ozarks since 1956, which serves as the backbone of its award-winning recipes. Italian influenced, the sauces and breads are made daily by hand, and this 27-year tradition has even landed the restaurant in the pages of The New York Times, Southern Living and Bon Appétit. DeVito’s dinner and lunch services make it easy to catch while exploring Downtown Eureka Springs, with street-side dining ideal for peoplewatching, as well as several scenic dining room options. If you only have time to grab a quick drink, be sure to ask about the martinis. 5 Center St., Eureka Springs, 479.253.6807, eureka-springs-usa.com/devito
The 1886 Crescent Hotel & Spa
Cottage Inn Restaurant Chef-owner Linda Hager likes to cook, entertain, drink wine and travel, and Cottage Inn restaurant is the melding of her passions. A country setting with a Mediterraneaninfluenced menu, Cottage Inn fuses the cuisines of Greece, Spain, France and Italy. An offering from the international wine cellar is perhaps the best meal companion, other than your own dinner date. Hager uncovers food and wine treasures in her travels, which are often showcased in the restaurant’s monthly wine dinners.
This hotel is the stuff of legends. A history that includes everything from dignitaries to ghosts makes The Crescent the grand dame of the Ozarks, a proud member of the National Trust for Historic Preservation and one of America’s Dozen Distinctive Destinations in 2001. Its 19th-century character has been lovingly restored, and guests are given old-fashioned resort-style hospitality. On-site amenities include restaurants, spa services, ghost tours and outdoor activities. It is also a popular wedding venue. 75 Prospect Ave., Eureka Springs, 800.342.9766, crescent-hotel.com
Beaver Lake Cottages Breathtaking mountain views surround Beaver Lake Cottages, which overlook the shores of Beaver Lake. Both cabins and suites are available, each with king-size beds, Jacuzzis, fireplaces and satellite television – though in the Ozarks, the best recreational activities are certainly found outdoors. Bird watchers, hikers, paddlers and nature enthusiasts will find fascination just outside their doorstep, whatever the season. 2865 Mundell Road, Eureka Springs, 888.701.8439, beaverlakecottages.com
Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge It’s not for everyone, but if you’re adventurous enough to spend the night on a safari, this is as close as you may ever get. The wildlife refuge is a nonprofit rescue and lifetime sanctuary for abandoned, abused and neglected lions, tigers, cougars and bears, and safari-style lodging is available on the compound. rustic by nature, the lodges are small but well appointed – and usually include big cats roaring in the night at no additional charge. Tent and rV camping is also available. 239 Turpentine Creek Lane, Eureka Springs, 479.253.5841, turpentinecreek.org
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The Oasis A trip to Eureka Springs isn’t complete without breakfast or lunch at The Oasis. Inside, the restaurant looks like a throwback to the 1970s, with vintage posters covering the walls. What comes out of the tiny two -person kitchen is a marvel of inventive Ark -Mex cuisine full of flavor and fresh, seasonal ingredients. Suspended between two buildings on the wooden stairs near the New Orleans Hotel & Spa, The Oasis is hard to find but well worth the hunt.
The time-honored and home-style recipes prepared in Ermilio’s kitchen have been handed down from generation to generation and still win awards as the best in the state. Dinner is full of pleasant surprises, including fresh roasted garlic served with homemade bread and sauces, pesto and hearty pastas made from scratch. Plan for a comfortable wait in the upstairs lounge, and be sure to leave room for the restaurant’s selection of housemade desserts. 26 White St., Eureka Springs, 479.253.8806, ermilios.com
local faves three must-visit gems Fresh Harvest Taste your way through healthy, refreshing flavors at Fresh Harvest, which offers a large selection of premium olive oils and aged balsamic vinegars. The tasting room includes more than 60 oil and vinegar flavors to inspire new recipe ideas, as employees share suggestions and knowledge along your journey through one of the largest, freshest selections on tap in the U.S. 512 Village Circle, Eureka Springs, 479.253.6247, freshharvest.co
450 W. Van Buren, Eureka Springs, 479.253.5282, cottageinneurekaspgs.com PHOTO By
Sweet Fig Photography
The Grand Taverne at the Grand Central Hotel & Spa
Chef Dave Gilderson’s menu features familiar fare – steak, pork chops and rack of lamb – but with more flair. Gilderson is a stickler for spices, preaching the gospel of salt and pepper, and, due to his French training, is keen to prepare fresh sauces that tempt you to lick your plate. Proof is in the lobster butter served 53 Spring St., Eureka Springs, 479.253.0886 with scallops and potato risotto. Locals like Jerry yester (of The Lovin’ Spoonful fame) often drop in to entertain.
Ermilio’s Italian Home Cooking
arkansas department of Parks and tourism
Meander down to the Ozarks and find respite in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, a casual arts community filled with writers, artists and culinarians. This month marks the 67th annual Original Ozark Folk Festival, the longest continuously running folk festival in the U.S. If you’re from St. Louis, you might discover a long-lost cousin, too – former Arkansas Governor Powell Clayton used his connections with wealthy St. Louisians to develop Eureka Springs back in 1882. Up or down are the only real directions you’ll need; the hills and curving switchback streets haven’t a single stoplight. No wonder Eureka Springs still known as a place of healing.
37 N. Main St., Eureka Springs, 800.344.6050, grandcentralresort.com
Ozark Mountain Taproom New in the local food-and-drink scene is Ozark Mountain Taproom, a craft beer bar featuring brews made in Arkansas, where fans can also follow the ale trail in The Natural State. The Taproom is a small, laid-back stop to tap into the wonders of fermentation. Beers rotate with the seasons, and the brewmasters are quite knowledgeable. Bring your growler or purchase one on-site to take suds home. 140 E. Van Buren, Eureka Springs, 479.244.6922 PHOTO By
Sweet Fig Photography
Keels Creek Winery and Art Gallery What happens when a chemist and an artist retire to Eureka Springs? In the case of Keels Creek Winery and Art Gallery, they make artisan wine. A boutique winery focused on eight varietals grown in its vineyards just south of town, Keels Creek is a place to relax and enjoy the wonders of fermentation. There are nine reds wines and 11 white wines to try and, of course, purchase to take home. 3185 E. Van Buren, Eureka Springs, 479.253.9463, keelscreek.com
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
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OCTOBER 2014
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Arkansas
White River Cabins In the heart of the Ozark mountains & Beaver Lake
W
e have a variety of adult only cabins to choose from. All units are modern, clean and fully equipped. All units are non-smoking. Covered porches for smokers. Sorry no pets.
the view Check out
Book your getaway today! 755 Country Road 210
(Blu Springs Heritage Center Road)
479.253.7117 or 1.800.494.2972 www.whiterivercabins.com
S ERVING DINNER Thursday - Sunday 5-9 pm
FOOD & WINE WEEKEND November 6th thru 9th
Wine Dinners Monthly • Nightly Wine Flights www.cottageinneurekaspgs.com
HWY. 62 WEST • EUREKA SPRINGS • 479.253.5282 Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
27
where we’re dining st. louis
peacemaker lobster & crab co. wRiTTEn by Liz miller
PHOTOGRAPHy by Jennifer Silverberg
inspired by the small, oceanside seafood joints that dot the East Coast and Louisiana, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. in benton Park serves a selection of fresh coastal eats. Peacemaker is the second restaurant for chef-owner Kevin nashan, the James beard semifinalist whose acclaimed fine-dining restaurant Sidney Street Cafe sits just up the street. At Peacemaker, Southern influences shine in dishes like gumbo and po’boys, while clam chowder and lobster rolls draw from northeast traditions. Lobster, shrimp and crab boils plate heaping helpings, and the raw bar offers ample fresh oysters, peel-and-eat shrimp and crudo of the day. Side dishes and desserts include some of the most whimsical fare – one bite of the housemade corn dog or sip of the snow cone and, just for a moment, you might hear waves breaking at the shore. Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co., 1831 Sidney St., Benton Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.772.8858, peacemakerstl.com
where we’re dining lenexa, ks.
muSt-try diSh kansas city
pig & bean
wRiTTEn by Jenny Vergara
PHOTOGRAPHy by
Pig & bean is what’s for breakfast at Happy Gillis Café & Hangout, where chef Josh Eans mixes black beans and chipotle pork and tops it off with radishes, cilantro, a soft egg and a side of San Antonio tortilla for one hearty early-morning meal. Happy Gillis Café & Hangout, 549 Gillis St., Columbus Park, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.471.3663, happygillis.com PHOTOGRAPHy by Aaron Lindberg
Alistair tutton
grinders stonewall
wRiTTEn by
Jenny Vergara
Expect the unexpected from Stretch, aka Jeff Rumaner. Artist, television personality and restaurateur, Stretch owns the wildly popular Grinders and Grinders west in the Crossroads neighborhood. Last year, he purchased the historic and (supposedly) haunted Kieltyka’s Stonewall inn in Lenexa, Kansas. After eight months of renovations, this suburban joint got “Stretchified,” bringing Grinders’ gritty Downtown goodness to Lenexa. Open since August, Grinders Stonewall has a modern roadhouse feel. Street signs cover the ceiling like a patchwork quilt, and Stretch himself designed a suspended lighting bolt-shaped tap system that offers more than 30 beers (bottled craft beer, wine and cocktails round out the drink offerings). The dining menu offers the same cocky and creative mix of favorites as the original location, including new york-style pizzas, Philly cheesesteaks, Death wings and smoked meat sandwiches. Grinders’ kitchen manager, Ulises Munoz, will oversee both kitchens. we hope to see former owner, Joseph Kieltyka, in the kitchen in Lenexa on Monday nights, making his famous pan-fried chicken dinners – and then it will have really come full circle. Grinders Stonewall, 10240 Pflumm Road, Lenexa, Kansas, 913.888.2000, grinderspizza.com
marine, il. ONE ON ONE
jerry mills
Todd GeiserT Farms Nat ura l lY ra is e d P ork & M ore !
owner, mills apple farm written by Bethany Christo
Mills Apple Farm in Marine, illinois, has seen its share of changes in the past four decades. Some changes have been positive, like when the farm expanded from 300 trees with five varieties of apples to its current crop of 4,500 trees with 18 varieties. but not all of the changes have been welcome ones – on May 4, the farm’s historic barn burned to the ground, taking the farm’s bakery, storage area and apple cider mill with it. in the wake of the wreckage, owner Jerry Mills, along with the help of his family and longtime employees, rebounded for this season’s harvest. A Crowdtilt campaign raised more than $15,000, boosting the cause, as well. you can find the farm’s apples, blackberries and assorted bakery items at the Goshen and Highland farmers markets throughout the month of October or at the farm until late December.
314-791-6942 • 4851 Old Hwy 100 Washington, MO • www.toadspigs.com
Lost ost Creek Vinineyard Winery OKTOberfesT eVenTs: Live Music, Vineyard Rides, Pumkin’ Chunkin’ Trebuchet
Homemade Greek Food Carry out • Catering Private Parties Gyros • Kebobs • Baklava oLYmPIa keBoB HoUSe aNd TaVerNa 7 days a week from 11am 1543 McCausland • 314-781-1299
Family owned, relaxed friendly atmosphere
21356 Gore Rd., Marthasville, MO 63357 (636) 932-4142
On Hwy. 94 at Gore Rd., 10 mi. east of Hermann
LostCreekVineyardMo.com | mm 93.8 on the Katy Trail
Enjoy a Day in the Country • Beautiful spacious grounds with room for parties of all sizes • Plenty of covered seating to enjoy free live music and wine tastings in all kinds of weather • Locally grown wines, award winning food and select beer • Enjoy friendly competition on our new Bocce Ball courts • Readers Choice Winner for 8 years in the Washington Missourian
Jonathan Gayman
Mills Apple Farm, 11477 Pocahontas Road, Marine, Illinois, 618.887.4732, millsapplefarm.com
now in season
PHOtOGrAPHy by
When did you build the barn? we built the barn in stages. in 1975, it was just a shelter to hold a scale and a cash register. then the next year we added a little building, but after i got it up, we realized it wasn’t big enough for the cider mill. So we built the great big barn behind it. these appendages kept sprouting out as we added different things over the years. What has been the biggest obstacle since the fire? Our image more than anything. we had this magnificent facility that people knew about and had fun coming to see. the impact on the apple production is negligible because the equipment that i use to take care of the apples and the orchards are alright, so nothing has happened as far as the apple picking. How have the apple varieties you grow changed over the years? Our orchards are set up so that there’s an apple ripening every 10 days or so. when we first started, people only sold Jonathans, Golden and red Delicious. when i first planted, i had five varieties, now we have 18 varieties, including Honeycrisp. i don’t have a favorite; i like the one that happens to be ripe at the time i’m eating it, especially if it’s dead-ripe. wait too long and it’s mushy, too soon and it’s green. What makes Mills’ apples so special? there’s a tremendous difference between an apple that’s been ripened on the tree over one that’s been picked and [put into] storage and shipped to a grocery store. the difference is the starch that’s initially developed in the apple gradually turns to sugar as it ripens on the tree to develop maximum sweetness. the commercial people try to clear apples when they’re almost ripe, but not dead-ripe, but the ripening process continues all the way through storage. What sorts of sweets does the bakery produce? Our favorite cookie is probably the oatmeal flax seed because of the special nutty flavor, and we use applesauce in place of the shortening in all of our cookies so that it’s not as fattening. we sell blackberry pies, sugar cookies, fruit breads and much more. we make apple pie that is famous throughout the area for its quality. i’ve had old men come up to me and say, “that’s the best apple pie that i ever ate!” which pleases me. For an old guy to say that, you know that’s a pretty good reflection on the quality of the pie.
Pumpkins & Fall Decorations
Balducci Vineyards 636-482-VINO (8466) 6601 Highway 94 South Augusta, Missouri 63332 www.balduccivineyards.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
29
Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale. An intriguingly delicious brew that’s always a welcome sight.
boulevard.com
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feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
the mix
find out what cocktail raises spirits from stl to kc on p. 34
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
%PG
on the Shelf
st. louis
SPIRIT
artiSan product kansas city
The BiG O GinGer Liqueur reserve
hugo tea co.’s organic black teas
written by Matt Sorrell
Provenance: St. Louis, Missouri (17% abv) try it: neat. A splash of sparkling wine also serves to accent the flavors nicely.
this extra-special reserve bottling ups the ante by taking the subtly spicy and lightly sweet spirit and aging it in a used blanton’s bourbon barrel for nine months. the result is a deep, dark, sensuous liqueur ideal for sipping on its own before or after dinner. Fewer than 350 bottles of this hand-labeled elixir are available – sold in 375-millimeter bottles – so be sure to act fast. More barrel-aged versions of the big O are in the works as well.
wRiTTen By Jenny vergara
Tyler Beckett, owner of Kansas City’s Hugo Tea Co., produces an organic line of black teas sourced from China and blended in the shop’s Crossroads storefront. Order online at hugotea.com. pHOTOGRapHy COuRTeSy Of hugo Tea Co.
The Big O, 314.239.5811, drinkthebigo.com When he’s not writing, Matt Sorrell can be found slinging drinks at Planter’s House in St. Louis’ Lafayette Square or bartending at events around town with his wife, Beth, for their company, Cocktails Are Go.
where we’re drinking st. louis
the gin room Gin is a divisive beverage. Proponents put it on a pedestal, parsing out nuances of flavor, aroma and weight as fans of whiskey or bourbon do. yet to many people, gin is vodka with some fancy clothes on. the anti-gin set would have you think that gin tastes like Pine-Sol and is only good for cleaning your bathtub. Fortunately, the St. Louis bar scene has natasha bahrami,
written by kyle harsha
who has created The Gin Room in the front of her family’s longtime Persian restaurant Café natasha’s on South Grand. the Gin room affords gin fans the chance to make up their own mind about the spirit. the bar offers a wide variety of gins – 70, by bahrami’s count – stocked inside the slick, modern space. in the past year, bahrami has introduced eight different housemade tonics that guests can pair with the lengthy list of gins, as well as various gin and whiskey infusions
available for sampling. that, of course, is all in addition to the whimsical takes on classic cocktails that bahrami and team have created. All of this is very impressive, but what will keep you coming back again and again is bahrami herself. Her positive energy is palpable, and she is the sort of business owner who not only knows the names of everyone walking through the door, but also knows their stories and what they like to drink. She moves about the space like the consummate hostess, ensuring everyone is comfortable, has a tasty beverage in hand and is well fed. behind the bar, bahrami is fun-loving, and her passion for all things gin is infectious. She thrives on the chance to educate you about the wide world of gin, and if you’re not a fan, bahrami is surely the person to change your mind.
BEER
The Gin Room, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., South Grand, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.771.3411, cafenatasha.com PHOtOGrAPHy by cheryl waller
Style: American iPA (8% abv)
CaThedraL square Brewery’s GaBrieL iPa written by Michael Sweeney
PairingS: rigatoni arrabiata ∙ Stilton cheese
Different beer evangelists worship different styles. Some of us worship at the altar of the stout, or the lager, but others of us are looking for something a bit more bitter that praises the hop. St. Louis-based Cathedral Square brewery gives reverence to the almighty hop with its new Gabriel iPA. this is one of my favorite new beers of 2014. the aroma erupts with floral pineapple and citrus, which is a pleasing union with the slightly sticky malt body. Cathedral Square Brewery, 314.803.3605, cathedralsquarebrewery.com The creator of stlhops.com and founder of St. Louis Craft Beer Week, Michael Sweeney is also the craft beer manager at Lohr Distributing.
%PG
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
ONE ON ONE festus, mo.
denny foster
co-owner, main & mill brewing co.
1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, MO 65041
written by Bethany Christo
Free Live Music
when Denny Foster volunteered at a Missouri brewery – eventually taking a full-time job there – he was told it was a dangerous place to work. but after a three-year career in finance, he was ready for something new, danger be naught. next month, Foster is opening Main & Mill Brewing Co. with his
Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays in October
father, barry (pictured below with Denny). Located at the intersection of the namesake’s streets in Festus, Missouri, Foster was determined to take
Wine-Beer Wine Slushies
the crumbling 1884 tavern and, with the community’s help, open the only brewery the town has seen in more than 100 years. the Foster family has lived in Festus for about 30 years, and the father-and-son team feel that the brewery has a deep-rooted connection to the early history of Festus, which was once known as tanglefoot. the brewpub will offer nine rotating draft selections, with a focus on session beers, ranging from a dry-hopped American wheat to a chocolate-coffee porter and a green chile beer, and also offer fresh takes on traditional pub fare made in collaboration with chef Leo Gomez of taytros, a Cajun and Creole restaurant in Festus. When did you know that brewing was more than a hobby? Although i realized that the large-scale aspect was significantly different than the home brewing i’ve been perfecting since my college days, the experience of being able to create something and watch the expression on people’s faces when they really enjoy something that you had a hand in making
German Food, Cellar Tours and Wine Tastings!
was the deciding factor. i have the passion for experimenting, brewing and spreadsheets; my dad’s the workhorse. How did you get your dad on board? He was excited about the idea before everything was in place, but i just wanted to give him the reassurance of the business and financial plan before he agreed. i really wanted to have him involved; we’ve always been really close, and i know what kind of worker he is and what kind of
Live Music Line-up
sacrifices he’s made, so he’s the perfect business partner, family or not. What’s the the story behind the brewery’s historic building? it started as west end tavern, a pretty big bar with an apartment above it. they didn’t even have a name for Festus at the time; it was just muddy roads,
Fridays 4:30-6:30 and Sat. & Sun. 1–5
and people would end up getting pretty drunk at this tavern and try to walk back to the neighboring plant. if it rained at all, the roads turned into a big mud pit, and people would actually fall into it drunk and struggle to get out, so they just started calling this area tanglefoot because of it. it’s significant that where our brewery is now was the epicenter of how Festus started and that this town was built on beer, even though it’s so much more than that now. What will this brewery mean to the community? this is exactly what we wanted to do: take something old and make it new and really rejuvenate Festus’ Main Street. we want people to consider this their place. How has the community responded? i can’t even begin to count the number of people who have helped us. we had people helping dig out dirt from our basement in five-gallon buckets and carrying up 200-pound rocks from the original structure. Practically every single trade contacted me and said, “if there’s anything help.” it’s been a huge indication that we’re doing this the right way. Main & Mill Brewing Co., 240 E. Main St., Festus, Missouri, 314.603.0924, mainandmillbrewingco.com
PHOTOGRAPHy by Jonathan Gayman
you need, i’m here to
October 3RD: Marissa Harms October 4TH: Pilot Grove October 5TH, 12th,19th: Loehnig German Band October 10th: Marissa Harms October 11th: 8-Track October 17th: jonie Loehnig October 18th: Man in the Ring October 24th: Daniel Sproat October 25th: Schmitts & Grins October 26th: Pat Auberry
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
33
the mix
The PendergasT Some bartenders dream of being immortalized in the pages of history through creating their own cocktail. the cocktail renaissance that’s occurred over the past decade has given way to many bartenders trying to create new classics, but there will only be a handful (if that) of these drinks that survive the test of time. this cocktail, the pendergast, is one that has a great chance of surviving – at least, i hope so. at first glance, this cocktail appears as if it were, in fact, lost in the tomes of the past only to be recently revived. it has all the inklings of a classic – a nifty name, a simple and easily replicated recipe and a potential hidden story behind it. as you sip this lovely libation, it brings you back to yesteryear, sitting in a speakeasy just waiting for a police raid to unfold. the subtle sweetness balanced with a pleasant kick of good ole american bourbon brings memories of relaxing on your porch watching the sunset. it’s a slow drink, meaning you shouldn’t down it quickly. it is meant to be sipped and savored. Usually the age of a classic cocktail means i don’t have the privilege of calling its creator – let alone being able to call him a friend. in the case of the pendergast, its creator is friend and fellow mixologist ryan Maybee, co-owner of the rieger hotel grill & exchange in Kansas city. Maybee also owns Kansas city cocktail bar Manifesto and is the co-founder of paris of the plains cocktail Festival, hosted in Kansas
Story and recipe by Matt Seiter photography by Jonathan Gayman
city each summer. i caught up with Maybee to learn more about the pendergast and his thought process when developing the drink. My first question: Where did the name come from? it turns out the drink is named after tom pendergast, a political boss in Kansas city from 1925 to 1939. pendergast controlled the democratic party, kept prohibition at bay in the city and was partly responsible for harry S. truman’s rise in politics and eventual election to the Missouri Senate. it has been noted that during pendergast’s reign in Kansas city, there was not one felony conviction related to prohibition laws, allowing the city to earn the moniker paris of the plains for how “wet” the city remained during this otherwise dry period. pendergast also used his power to help the poor by hosting christmas and thanksgiving dinners, provide jobs through city building projects and, due to the lack of enforced prohibition under his tenure, to give rise to a golden era of jazz that would make the city famous. in regards to the cocktail, it has nothing to do with tom pendergast himself. he drank sparingly, if at all, during that period, nor did anyone make a drink resembling the cocktail in any way. as ryan states, “i wanted to pay homage to Kansas city’s history. i wanted to give the cocktail a sense of place and time.” and he has done just that.
Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktails Bars, bartender at BC’s Kitchen and a bar and restaurant consultant.
The Pendergast Ryan Maybee created this drink when he was working at JP Wine Bar in Kansas City in 2006. This cocktail is essentially a Manhattan with Bénédictine, or a Bobby Burns with bourbon and bitters – take your pick. Ryan noticed the drink was a little too sweet with bourbon, so he added bitters to balance it out. According to Ryan, he had no intention of creating a classic with The Pendergast, it just turned out that way. serves | 1 | 1½ ¾ ½ 2
oz bourbon oz sweet vermouth oz Bénédictine dashes Angostura bitters ice lemon twist (for garnish)
| Preparation | combine first four ingredients and a few ice cubes in a mixing glass and stir until chilled. Using a strainer, strain drink into a double-rocks glass without ice. garnish with lemon twist.
Spirited History in addition to the pendergast cocktail, ryan Maybee pays homage to his Kansas city roots in another way: his restaurant, the rieger hotel grill & exchange, is located inside the prohibition-era rieger hotel at 1924 Main Street. al capone was noted to be one of the hotel’s frequent guests, and today there’s even a nod to capone in the men’s restroom. it’s pure coincidence, but pendergast’s headquarters were located just a few doors down on Main Street. i’ve passed by that two-story yellow building many times, but on my next visit it will be a bit more nostalgic; i wonder how many times i’ve walked in pendergast’s footsteps, or capone’s, for that matter.
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feastmagazine.com
OCTOBer 2014
Welcoming Visitors for Over 200 Years!
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OCTOBER 2014
35
road trip hermann, mo.
destination: hermann, missouri written by
Liz Miller
sip
At black walnut bistro in downtown Hermann, the kitchen turns out housemade pastas, expertly prepares steaks and seafood and applies a creative touch to fresh vegetables. executive chef nicholas renfroe makes fresh pastas such as pappardelle, fettuccine, angel hair and spaghetti inhouse (gluten-free pasta is also available), served in dishes like lamb ragu, chicken carbonara and pesto Genovese. each menu item is accompanied with a regional wine pairing recommendation, including local favorites from Stone Hill winery, Hermannhof winery and Adam Puchta winery.
experience one of the best views in Hermann at Stone Hill winery, where the outdoor wine garden overlooks the city as well as one of its norton vineyards. Stone Hill has multiple tasting rooms managed by knowledgeable staffers who happily guide guests through more than 20 of its wines, which are available for purchase at its adjoining retail store. Plan to dine at Stone Hill’s Vintage restaurant for lunch or dinner, which is Hermann’s only full-service restaurant on-site at a winery.
222 E. First St., Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.3298, facebook.com/blackwalnutbistro
Hermannhof winery is hard to miss – its elevated outdoor wine garden sits proudly above Frene Creek in downtown Hermann, and its property spans a lengthy stretch of the city’s bustling east First Street. inside, the staff at Hermannhof enthusiastically walks guests through tastings of its lengthy wine list – can’t-miss pours include its famous white Lady, made in the style of riesling, or the Vignoles, traminette, Chambourcin and norton. there is a small store just off the tasting room that sells a selection of cheeses, summer sausages, desserts and more to pair with wine on its lovely outdoor patio.
Black Walnut Bistro
Swiss Meat & Sausage Co. Swiss Meat & Sausage Co. is a small, familyowned business that has been producing smoked meats and sausages for decades. Formerly a country store and meat market, the shop has been operating as a butchery and smokehouse since the mid-1960s. Swiss stocks a sizable selection of housemade and locally produced retail items such as barbecue sauces, jams, butters, baked goods and treats – in addition to its selection of ham, bacon, sausage, sliced deli meats and bratwurst. Grab lunch at its small café, where menu items including pulled pork nachos and bratwurst showcase a selection of its excellent products. 2056 State Highway 19, Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.2086, swissmeats.com
Ricky’s Chocolate Box
Stone Hill Winery
1110 Stone Hill Highway, Hermann, Missouri, 800.909.9463, stonehillwinery.com
Hermannhof Winery
330 E. First St., Hermann, Missouri, 800.393.0100, hermannhof.com
Tin Mill Brewing Co. in the middle of downtown Hermann sits tin Mill brewing Co., the city’s very own (and only) craft brewery, owned by the Dierberg family, which also owns nearby Hermannhof winery. the brewery produces a handful of seasonal beers throughout the year, including its Oktoberfest brew, but year-round best bets include its malty, full-bodied Midnight whistle and its slightly sweet First Street wheat. if it’s your first visit, opt for the beer sampler, which serves tastings of six suds, and take home a growler of your favorite brews. 114 Gutenberg St., Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.2275, tinmillbrewery.com
OakGlenn Vineyards & Winery
this semi-dry Vignoles is made more in the style of a sparking wine, with subtle fruit flavor and refreshing effervescence.
Bias Winery and Gruhlke’s Microbrewery tucked away just off of Missouri route 100 fewer than 15 minutes from Hermann is bias winery & Microbrewery. the winery allows guests to sample six complimentary pours at its tasting room – we especially enjoyed the Vignoles, Seyval and Chambourcin – and asks guests to pay $1 for a pour of its Frosty Meadow white ice wine, which is a sound investment. bias also produces small-batch craft beers, which are only available to drink or buy at the winery. the draft list includes an iPA, a stout, a wheat and a tripel – and all are extremely tasty and well-made. 3166 Highway B, Berger, Missouri, 573.834.5475, biaswinery.com
310 Market St., Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.8950
275 Röbller Vineyard Road, New Haven, Missouri, 573.237.3986, robllerwines.com
OCTOBER 2014
1104 Oak Glenn Place Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.5057, oakglenn.com
Adam Puchta Winery
An autumn picnic in Hermann isn’t complete without a bottle of Adam Puchta winery’s norton Vintner’s reserve, earthy and full of deep fruit flavor. 1947 Frene Creek Road, Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.5596, adampuchtawine.com
Röbller Vineyard and Winery the short 20-minute jaunt from Hermann to röbller Vineyard and winery in new Haven, Missouri, is worth the trip just to enjoy the pastoral scenery – excellent wine is an added bonus. At the winery’s tasting room, the staff takes tremendous pride in the quality of the wines, sharing details about how the different grapes are grown and the varietals are produced. Standouts include its buttery 2009 Vidal, spicy traminette and semi-sweet white Steuben, a blush made from the bluish-black Steuben grape.
feastmagazine.com
local gems three must-try faves
the air inside ricky’s Chocolate box smells like sugar, thanks to confections such as chocolate turtles, dark chocolate salted caramels and artfully decorated truffles in flavors such as carrot cake, dark orange and mint cream. the already decadent turtles are dressed up with pistachios, macadamia nuts and toffee. be sure to also visit battocletti bake Shoppe next door, where fresh donuts, cinnamon rolls and more are made in-house six days a week.
36
division of tourism
eat
PHOtOGrAPHy COurteSy OF Missouri
the lush landscape and robust wine industry in Hermann, Missouri, make it a destination for all seasons. in autumn, October is the most happening month to visit, when the city’s annual Oktoberfest festivities celebrate the town’s German heritage and offer revelers the opportunity to indulge in Hermann’s thriving food-and-drink scene. Situated on the majestic Missouri river and surrounded by rolling hills and sprawling vineyards, Hermann is replete with natural beauty and chock-full of boutique bed and breakfasts, offering a picturesque backdrop for those seeking a rip-roaring long weekend or a relaxing vacation.
Pinckney Bend Distillery
in nearby new Haven, Pinckney bend Distillery makes corn whiskey and three-grain vodka, but is best-known for its awardwinning, hand-crafted gin. 1101 Miller St., New Haven, Missouri, 573.237.5559, pinckneybend.com
Puerto Vallarta and Riviera Nayarit on Mexico’s Pacific coast are among the country’s most beautiful and scenic resorts, where the beauty of the mountains frames the magnificent coastline. Culture and history are rich and alive in the towns and markets. Stroll along the charming seaside Malecón in downtown Puerto Vallarta. You’ll be tempted by a variety of fabulous eateries, and local vendors offering authentic Mexican snacks such as tacos and esquites (creamy corn cups with various toppings). Across the country on the Yucatan peninsula, home of the Mayans, travelers will enjoy a style of food all of its own. The dining options in Cancun, Riviera Maya and Cozumel are endless. The culinary delights of a typical Yucatecan kitchen come from a mouth-watering mixture of European and Mexican flavors, in addition to char-grilled meats and a variety of sauces. Ceviche is a tropical Mexican specialty featuring fish or seafood such as shrimp, octopus or shellfish, with finely chopped onion, cilantro and tomato. All the ingredients are bathed in fresh lemon juice, resulting in an incomparable explosion of flavors.
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Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
37
where we’re drinking columbia, mo.
logboat brewing co. wRiTTen by
Ryan Sciara has been in the wine business for more than half his life and has spent the past nine years solely dedicated to selling wine, spirits and craft beer in the retail market. His latest venture, Underdog Wine Co., is the culmination of 23 years of knowledge and experience all crammed into a 600-square-foot retail shop.
Logboat Brewing Co., 504 Fay St., Columbia, Missouri, 573.397.6786, logboatbrewing.com
PHOTOGRAPHy by Aaron Ottis
Amigoni Urban Winery, 1505 Genessee St. #100, Kansas City, Missouri, 913.890.3289, winery.amigoni.com
On the sheLf kansas city
WINE
Amigoni UrbAn Winery’s Viognier 2013
wRiTTen by
ryan sciara
Provenance: Kansas City, Missouri Pairing: Herb-roasted root vegetables
As we cross the bridge from late summer into fall drinking, i love what Kansas City-based Amigoni’s Viognier brings to the table. Amigoni Urban winery is the only Missouri winery dedicated solely to producing wines from vitis vinifera, or european grape vines. it shows classic Viognier aromatics: tropical, peachy, spicy and exotic. The palate is rich, yet balanced with peach skin and apricot fruit. bright, mouthwatering acidity makes this Viognier incredibly food-friendly.
where we’re drinking kansas city
cinder block brewery
PHOTOGRAPHy by Landon Vonderschmidt
Like many craft beers, Cinder Block Brewery’s story starts with owner bryce Schaffter’s cinder-block basement. This is where his home brewing habit soon fermented into a beer-brewing business plan. The final piece locked into place at the Great nebraska beer Fest, where Schaffter met local brewer – and now Cinder block’s director of brewing – bryan buckingham. They met. They talked. They drank some beer. They decided to open their own brewery and call it Cinder block after the basement where it all began. The Cinder block taproom has 20 taps, with six year-round beers, two year-round ciders and four to eight seasonal selections. Staples include weathered wit, a belgium wit; Pavers Porter, a straight-up porter; northtown native, a California common lager; Prime extra Pale Ale; and block iPA. The tasting flight comes with samples of these five brews and one seasonal beer. Their French-style
38
Bethany Christo
The exterior of the converted meat-packing shop that houses Logboat Brewing Co. in Columbia, Missouri, looks like a modern art museum with its brutalist right angles, dark siding and sprawling green yard, but inside, the tasting room evokes a rustic cabin, complete with a wood-burning stove and a Missouri heart pine bar made from the repurposed beams of a schoolhouse in Kansas City. Unlike your typical cabin, however, are three big windows for peering into the brewery’s production room. This month, try Logboat’s Dark Matter, a wheat porter with 6.5 percent alcohol by volume to warm the fall chill in the air. “it tastes like your grandma’s chocolate brownies, but still lets you taste your food by the end of the night,” says Tyson Hunt, chief executive officer of Logboat, who opened the brewery in May with four good friends. The Snapper is the best seller of the bunch, with hops that don’t overwhelm the stone-fruit flavor profiles of the well-balanced iPA. in the tasting room, a painting of a floating Mark Twain buddha hangs near the stairs, a Missouri native who all five co-founders say inspire them while brewing – that and their occasional “wisdom fire” naming sessions that involve a large fire, a bottle of whiskey and an all-night brainstorm. if the brews make the cozy tasting room feel a bit too warm, head outside to the “shipyard” – influenced by the beer gardens of the Pacific northwest, where the co-founders traveled before opening shop – with a large lawn, picnic tables, frolicking dogs, live music and food trucks parked along the street. Logboat’s beers are currently only sold on draft, but the brewery has a canning line in the works set to debut sometime this fall.
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
wRiTTen by Jenny Vergara
hard apple cider, Cider block, is made from locally grown apples. Cinder block has high ambitions for its 20-barrel system and coinciding beer program. Along with the brewery’s lineup of craft beers, the team has invested in a barrel-aging program, allowing them to brew beers and age them in wine, whiskey and brandy barrels. The process takes more production time, but yields interesting and more complex beers. The taproom is open from Monday to Thursday from 4pm to 9pm, and noon to 11pm on Friday and Saturday. Sundays are reserved for private tours only. Patrons are welcome to bring in outside food to enjoy with their beers, as there is currently no food service. Here, it’s all about the beer. Cinder Block Brewery, 110 E. 18th Ave., North Kansas City, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.298.6555, cinderblockbrewery.com
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Theatre for Any Appetite! 2014-2015 Season On Sale
Mainstage
One Man, Two Guvnors Sept. 10 - Oct. 5 A Midsummer Night’s Dream Oct. 15 - Nov. 9 Ring of Fire: The Music of Johnny Cash Dec. 3 - 28 Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner Jan. 7 - Feb. 1 The Winslow Boy Feb. 11 - Mar. 8 Vanya and Sonia and Masha and Spike Mar. 18 - Apr. 12
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A Kid Like Jake Oct. 29 - Nov. 16 Safe House Jan. 21 - Feb. 8 Buyer and Cellar Mar. 11 - 29
w o N y u B
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THE REPERTORY THEATRE OF ST. LOUIS 130 Edgar Road • St. Louis, MO • 63119 Photo:
One Man, Two Guvnors Raymond McAnally
We Cater food and Wine...
but mostly we cater to you.
1772 Clarkson rd.
at Baxter
the Wine rooM
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OCTOBER 2014
Event, Party Rooms • Intimate Wine Room Box Lunches & Suppers • Full Catering – On & Off Site
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party perfect
take a dip with us on p. 45
PHOtOGrAPHy by Brad austin
SHOP HERE overland park, ks.
brew lab
written by Jenny Vergara
the four friends behind brew Lab – Kevin Combs, Matthew Hornung, Justin waters and Clay Johnston – pooled their talents and resources to get Brew Lab open in downtown Overland Park last summer. it is the first shop of its kind in Kansas City, providing everything a home brewer needs to brew and bottle his or her own beer, either at home or by using the equipment inside the shop. the owners know what it’s like to struggle to find the answers to home brewing questions, so when customers step through the doors, they make sure you have everything you need to proceed. From the newbie home brewer to the next nano-brewer, brew Lab has all of the equipment, materials and knowledge to get you – or to keep you – brewing. the footprint of the
aRtiSan PROductS st. louis
honey masters sunshine honey written by Bethany christo
Sweet Sensations is an entrepreneurship program to teach business basics in real-world settings to teens in The Ville neighborhood north of Downtown St. Louis. The honey the students gather is sold at multiple retail stores in the greater St. Louis areas as well as online. Sweet Sensations, 4120 Maffitt Ave., The Ville, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.531.4161, honeymasters.com
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store is small, but the beers that incubate here are no small feat. it takes several hours to brew beer, and another two to three weeks to let it ferment before it’s bottled. the tables and chairs in the center of the store serve as the classroom or as a place to hang out while your beer is brewing. Stainlesssteel tables line one side of the space, with a total of three brewing stations, while the other side offers a wall of bulk bins filled with rye, barley, wheat and oats, which gives the store – and your beer – its earthy, sweet scent. Brew Lab, 8004 Foster St., Overland Park, Kansas, 913.400.2343, brewlabkc.com
PHOtOGrAPHy COurteSy OF Cherylstyle.com
CuLInary LIbrary webb city, mo.
Mother Daughter Dishes: reinventing LoveD CLassiCs By Cheryl Najafi, cherylstyle.com writteN By Liz Miller
Long before Cheryl Najafi’s work landed her name on The New York Times best sellers list, she was a kid growing up in the small community of webb City, Missouri. in her second cookbook, Mother Daughter Dishes: Reinventing Loved Classics, released earlier this year, Najafi shares early food memories, reflections and recipes from her childhood – her grandmother’s recipe for flaky biscuits and her mother’s recipe for coconut cream pie are two highlights – as well as new and updated family recipes. in the book’s foreword, Najafi shares helpful information for home cooks including conversion and substitution charts for ingredients, equipment essentials, pantry musthaves and cooking and baking tips. At the heart of the cookbook are down-home recipes divided into several sections: Morning Foods (buttermilk biscuits, cinnamon-sugar monkey bread, apple bran muffins), Main Meals (hot turkey and pastrami sandwiches, chicken enchilada soup, brisket), Side Dishes (skillet cornbread, roasted cauliflower bites, Spanish rice) and Sweet endings (chocolate zucchini cake, pecan tart, classic custard pie). every family has cherished food traditions and recipes, and Najafi’s are a love letter to the simple, special and lifelong connection that cooking can create.
Delivery, Dine In, Take Out, Catering 3 Locations
Open 11am- Sold Out 9200 Olive Blvd, Olivette, MO
3150 Elm Point Industrial Dr St. Charles, MO
9955 Winghaven Blvd O’Fallon, MO
(314) 997-2301
636-724-7601
636-265-1234
www.SugarfireSmokeHouse.com
Almost everyone offers cremation. Offering on-site cremation puts us in a class of our own. Nowadays, it’s very common for a funeral home to offer cremation services.You might not know that cremation and on-site cremation are two very different options. Having an on-site crematory is just another way we guarantee that your loved one’s care is always in reach and near to our hearts.
Ballwin Funeral Home Schrader Funeral Home - Eureka 14960 Manchester Rd. at Holloway 108 North Central Ave. Ballwin, MO 63011 Eureka, MO 63025
(636) 227-5511
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charles viancin assorted lids “The airtight seal helps prevent spills, retains heat and seals in the freshness of your food. Unlike plastic wrap, these cheerful lids are created to use over and over. It’s the perfect juncture of fun and function for every kitchen. You can get covers shaped as sunflowers, lily pads, poppies, squash blossoms, snowflakes and many more.” –Louise Meyers, owner, Pryde’s Kitchen & Necessities Pryde’s Kitchen & Necessities, 115 Westport Road, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.531.5588, prydeskitchen.com PHOTOgraPHY cOUrTesY Of Charles
get thIs gadget
Viancin
kansas city
© adfinity
Style in The Loop
Saturday October 18th 3-9pm
Sole Survivor Leather invites you to start your LOOP Style journey at Serendipity Gallery or Componere Gallery of Art. Ask for a free shopping bag and map. A visit to the participating designers at each shop is your ticket in to the evening’s runway show!
Designer Steve Rye presents his Fall Leather collection at the Delmar shop October 18th, 3-5p.m. Join us for a runway show with other Style in The Loop designers from 7-9 at the MOONRISE HOTEL
314-690-3356 Sole Survivor 6148 Delmar Inspired Local Food Culture
(across from the Pageant)
OCTOBER 2014
43
dine on design kansas city
bluestem reborn written by Bethany Christo
PHOtOGrAPHy by Travis Bechtel
Bluestem, a fine-dining establishment operating out of a 102-year old building in Kansas City’s Midtown, is owned by chef Colby Garrelts, winner of the 2013 James beard Foundation best Chef: Midwest award. in September 2013, Colby and his wife and pastry chef, Megan Garrelts, hired architect David Herron of Herron + Partners to streamline the restaurant’s dining room. Herron, a 10-year regular of bluestem, approached the Garrelts after his first meal at the restaurant. “we didn’t want to lose the authenticity that they’d built up,” says Herron, who counts bluestem as his first restaurant design work. “we made cleaner lines, helped delineate the space and streamlined service.” we caught up with Herron to learn how he created the warm and contemporary feel, what inspired certain design elements and how you can recreate some of bluestem’s new design elements in your own home.
PHOtOGrAPHy by
Bonjwing Lee
900 Westport Road, Midtown, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.561.1101, bluestemkc.com
Ceiling. “you’d be surprised at how inexpensive this was. it’s made of half-inch medium-density fiberboard, cut with a CnC machine that’s controlled by a computer. you can sculpt it into any shape you want. For this piece, i looked at the topographical map of the Flint Hills in western Kansas and used that to create waves reminiscent of a Kansas prairie, which is not flat, as many think. it’s a subtle nod to the name bluestem, a natural western Kansas prairie grass.”
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Wall of MiRRoRs in BaR aRea. “these mirrors were in the original restaurant, and they were Megan [Garrelts’] idea. She bought them at different estate sales over the years. we left it as a gesture to the old space because we liked that you could have a different perspective of the people and place depending on which mirror you were looking into.”
Wine RaCKs. “i do a lot of flying, and when i fly over western Kansas, i see these big irrigation circles in the prairie, and they’re often many different colors based on the crop. i wanted to represent that in this wine display. these are all mailing tubes, one foot in depth to house a wine bottle, and we had them custom made to fit from one to 12 bottles. it only ended up costing us $1,000, which was much less than the $15,000 we estimated for a wine cabinet. Plus, the circle shape is structurally sound and can easily stack on top of one another.”
Banquettes and taBles. “technically, with the redesign, the restaurant space got smaller because we made the kitchen larger, but we saved seating by using banquettes made of vinyl seating and cloth backing. this is a great way to add room to smaller kitchens, and your biggest expense is going to come in with the material you use. For bluestem, the banquettes are a nice juxtaposition to the independent chairs across from them.”
artIsan produCts kansas city
tappecue
Andria’s
Countryside Proudly Serves
written by Jenny Vergara
Monitor meat in your grill or smoker from anywhere using your smartphone and the tappecue temperature monitoring system, invented and first brought to market in Kansas City. Simply purchase the tappecue device, download the tappecue app and monitor the progress of grilling or smoking through a wi-Fi connection to the tappecue sensors in your meat. For more information visit tappecue.com. PHOtOGrAPHy COurteSy OF Bourret
Photography
taste the finest There’s Angus.Then there’s the Certified Angus Beef ® brand.
R e s e Rvat i o n s s u g g e s t e d (618) US-prime or (618) 656-0281 7415 state route 143 • edwardsville, il www.andriascountryside.com
Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! FEAST FAVE Pork Porterhouse. Rensing’s Porterhouse pork chop, cheddar jalapeno bread pudding, green beans, sunny side up egg 106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch • First Come - First Serve (No reservations) Open Mon - Fri starting at 11 am and Sat starting at 10 am
get thIs gadget st. louis
iced dip chiller “this is so convenient for keeping a dish chilled at parties. All you do is put the ice on the bottom and take the lid off when you get there and you’re ready to go.” –brenda McFadden, store manager, terra 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri, 314.966.0800, terrastl.com PHOtOGrAPHy COurteSy OF Prodyne
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
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SHoP Here university city, mo.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Cheryl Waller
|1|
|2|
united provisions “The American palate is getting more adventurous,” says Shayn Prapaisilp, project manager at United Provisions in St. Louis’ Delmar Loop, where one can find international rarities sourced directly from countries across the globe. The specialty grocery store opened in mid-August, and it’s an immersive experience. It takes time to walk down the aisles because most names, and even foods, are enticing but unfamiliar. The store boasts more than 300 vendors from around the world and is owned by the family who operates Global Foods Market in Kirkwood. Many may go in with a set list of staples in mind but will walk out with hard-to-pass up items like kimchi from Chicago, green tea pastry rolls from Japan or digestive biscuits from the U.K. “I love seeing first-time customers in here because they’re always looking through each and every item on the shelves so meticulously,” Prapaisilp says. “Their carts are so random when they check out.” The store’s 15,000-square-foot layout is inspired by Eataly in New York City, where the groceryshopping experience is integrated with the
WRITTEN BY Bethany Christo
dining experience. Large slats of pale reclaimed wood cover the walls and ceilings and contrast the blocks of neon cheeses, bright produce and towering shelves of colorful packaged products. “We wanted it to feel like a European mini boulevard on the way to the market,” Prapaisilp says. The Dining District restaurant inside United Provisions includes a beer and wine retail section, coffee bar, deli, grill, sushi bar and grab-and-go options, with Ben Poremba of St. Louis’ Elaia and Olio and Naomi Hamamura of St. Louis’ Wasabi heading the culinary team. The aisles are organized by functionality, meaning that beans are located by other beans, produce by produce and so on. “If you know you love Brazilian food and only looked in the Brazilian section, then you’d never branch out,” Prapaisilp says. “We want people to explore, expand, break barriers.” United Provisions, 6241 Delmar Blvd., The Loop, University City, Missouri, 314.833.5699, unitedprovisions.com
ThREE MusT-TRy TREaTs fROM uniTEd PROvisiOns | 1 | The iconic Brazilian soda Guaraná Antarctica, made from the guarana plant, tastes like a mix between ginger ale and Sprite with notes of berries and is produced only in Brazil, Portugal and Japan. | 2 | One hundred percent natural Swiss chocolate, Heidi Grand’Or Dark & Hazelnuts combines high-cocoa content milk chocolate with whole caramelized hazelnuts and is highly popular in Europe. | 3 | not pictured. A collaboration between Milton Creamery and the Flory family of Jamesport, Missouri, Flory’s Truckle Cheddar is aged in cloth for 12 months to produce a dry, crumbly texture. In 2013, it won second place in the American Cheese Society contest for cloth-bound Cheddar aged for more than 12 months.
on trend st. louis
five questions with retta le ritz St. Louis native Retta le Ritz built her design career working in New York City under some of fashion’s biggest names. Ten years ago, le Ritz moved back to St. Louis to pursue the next phase of her career in papermaking and patternmaking. We caught up with the designer to get the details on her latest project, a fabric collection set to debut in October.
1
What is the inspiration for your new collection? It’s kind of one theme that’s multi-layered. I’ve been collecting imagery for over five years with the intention of doing fabric or wallpaper eventually, so the hard part was editing five years of inspiration – boil[ing] it down [into] one collection.
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2
You’ve worked on home collections with Betsey Johnson, Nicole Miller and Tommy Hilfiger. How did those experiences further your career? I think it allowed me to see the possibilities, just [by] being in that environment that’s perpetually creative and surrounded by people who are always thinking outside of the box. That’s one of the biggest lessons I took back to St. Louis with me. They built their brands from scratch, and I took a nod from that, knowing if I worked hard, I could do the same thing.
3
Walk me through your patternmaking process. I work primarily in pen and marker, and I always have. So when I started the collection, I thought, “Should
WRITTEN BY
Matt duchesne
I do this on the computer, or paint it, or change it up in some way?” For me, pen and marker is my signature look, and it’s what I do best, so I kept that process for the fabric. I work in a grid formation, and every pattern is a little different, but that’s the best way to get it started. Once I sketch the pattern, I transfer it to a computer and finalize it to make sure little nuances are fixed. Then, it’s a pattern.
4
After your new line is released, what other projects are on the horizon? Retta le Ritz started as a paper company, but I’ve had my hands in so many different pots [that] I would like to see the company shift and become a lifestyle brand instead of being known as just paper.
5
In the past you’ve shared how inspiring social media can be to your work. Absolutely, every day. You know, it’s nice how there are so many creative people staying in St. Louis now, and 10 years ago it didn’t feel that way at all. It’s amazing to feel even more connected to other creatives in the industry, whether they’re in Texas, Chicago, New York, California. There’s a real energy to it; I feed off of looking at other people’s sketches and ideas. Visit feastmagazine.com to read the full interview with Retta le Ritz and visit rettaleritz .com to find the designer’s latest collection.
get thIs gadget springfield, mo.
spiralfix spiral vegetable slicer “I absolutely love this spiral vegetable slicer. I like to take zucchini and yellow squash, make spaghetti-style strips out of it, then flash fry it for about a minute in olive oil with garlic and Italian herbs. I then put spaghetti sauce over top. [It] makes for a very low-carb dinner compared to using [wheat] noodles, and also gets your vegetables in all at the same time.” –emily church, owner, everything Kitchens Everything Kitchens, 2750 S. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri, 417.719.4243, everythingkitchens.com
October 11th 9:00am-4:00pm
“ComeToast the Good Life” Tasting Room Hours:
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Friday 12p.m.-5p.m. Saturday 10a.m.-5p.m. Sunday 11am-5pm
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Join us for our Award Winner Wines! FeaturedWine of the Month “Double Gold International Winner - Almond Tree Red” www.bommaritoestatewinery.com
20% to 50% Off Diamonds and Select Jewelry In stock merchandise only.
Admission is F REE! Visit us on Facebook & Online
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Olde World Jewelers www.oldeworldjewelers.com 4614 N. Illinois • Fairview Heights 618.233.2445
Save Time, Save Money, Find What You Need for Your Home October 10‐12 St. Charles Convention Center
“For me, pen and marker is my signature look, and it’s what i do best, so i kept that process For the Fabric.”
y PH RA OG T O PH
sy Te uR cO
tz Ri le a tt Re f
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The Area’s Largest Fall Home Event
Get ideas and inspiration from 300 booths on two levels!
Fall Family Fun! Mills Apple Festival has tasty samples and free pumpkin painting for kids. Pumpkin Carving Exhibitions ‐ Master pumpkin carver creates amazing jack‐o‐lanterns. Show Hours
Friday & Saturday 11 am ‐ 8 pm Sunday 11 am ‐ 5 pm
Jeff Wilson, HGTV Veteran and Home Improvement Expert, talks about Trends in Outdoor Spaces and Cutting Edge Energy Efficiency for the Home.
Directions
I‐70 to Fifth St. exit south. Right on Veterans Memorial Pkwy.
FREE Admission & Parking! STLHomeShow.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
47
Funeral of a Friend It is with great sorrow That we inform you of the death of the Elijah Craig bourbon barrel hand-selection program. These unique bottles are the last of exclusive barrels & we invite you to their “funeral” -
THE RAREST
WHISKEY TASTING Saturday, November 1, 2014 & Wednesday, December 10, 2014 in the conservatory at Sanctuaria, 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, MO
SERVICES
Passed hors d’oeuvres & memorial cocktail - 3 Course Dinner with 3 tastings, 3 cocktails & dessert - A farewell toast from the last barrel chosen - A “funeral pyre”, burning an actual barrel being tasted
only 50 spaces per event. RESERVE @ EVENTBRITE.COM TODAY!
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Min.
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Free Undermount Stainless Steel Sink Based on a purchase of 50 sq. ft. of Category B or higher Granite Countertops GRANITE BUSTERS • Coupon must be presented at time of purchase. Coupons cannot be combined with any other offers. Restrictions apply. See store for details. *Must be included with installation. Cannot be used as a substitute for any other offers.
Stop by our Showroom Today! WE DO IT ALL! Custom Fabrication • Expert Installation • Laser Templating/Precision Fabrication Ask About Our Exclusive Lifetime Granite Sealer • Exclusive Lifetime Installation Warranty
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Sale offers for new customers only. Must present coupon at time of purchase. Limited quantities. Restrictions apply. See store for details. Offer expires: 10/31/14. FFP
1752 Jeffco Blvd. • Arnold | 636-333-1627 314-441-7825
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sweet ideas
crack into missouri pecans on p. 56
seed to table
swEEt POtAtO Pub ChEEsE with YukOn GOld ROunds as a farmer, awaking to crisp autumn air in September is such a liberating feeling. The autumnal equinox – which occurred on September 22 – marks the time of the year when the temperatures begin to cool and the days become shorter. october typically defines the beginning of bountiful autumn harvests in the Midwest. Colorful summer bumper crops such as tomatoes, peppers and squash are still producing until mid-october, which marks the region’s first frost. Simultaneously, fall crops such as broccoli, cabbage, winter squash and sweet potatoes are ready to be harvested. Sweet potatoes can be harvested from early September through mid-october, depending on the date they were planted, and of course, the weather plays a significant role in determining harvest dates. Fortunately for me, my husband, eric, grows some mighty fine sweet potatoes. one of our favorite pastimes is planting sweet potato slips in hills of loose soil, row by row, in the spring. each slip is an actual plant that vines out as it grows, and each plant produces multiple sweet potatoes, which are actually tuberous roots that grow underground. digging into the rich, dark earth and unveiling these garnet gems – as my gardening mentor and friend Colleen once called them – brings excitement and awe season after season. Their bright
orange color is vibrant against the soil’s dark brown backdrop. For farmers, digging up sweet potatoes is like going on a treasure hunt. Sweet potatoes are available in a variety of colors including purple and yellow. They are often confused with yams, but sweet potatoes are actually botanically distinct from yams. The vegetable is considered a superfood packed with vitamins a, C and B. They also contain generous amounts of manganese, copper and potassium. In the kitchen, sweet potatoes are a very versatile vegetable. They can be sliced with a spiral slicer to make sweet potato noodles, which are even tasty eaten raw with the right spices. They can be cooked whole, roasted, baked, boiled, fried, sautéed, steamed or shredded. one of my favorite ways to eat sweet potatoes is as the base of vegan pub cheese dip. Chips and rarebit are one of my favorite snacks, but as they aren’t exactly health foods, I indulge in them in moderation. Luckily, when boiled sweet potatoes are blended with a few ingredients, they can taste so much like a substitution for pub cheese or rarebit that you may forget it’s a healthy alternative. Served with baked yukon gold potato rounds, this sweet potato pub cheese makes a hearty, healthful snack to pair with cider or your favorite seasonal autumn beer.
Crystal Stevens is a farmer at La Vista CSA Farm on the bluffs of the Mississippi River in Godfrey, Illinois, where she farms with her husband, Eric. They have two children. Crystal is an advocate of integrating creativity into sustainability through writing, art, photojournalism and seed-to-table cooking. Find more of her work at growingcreatinginspiring.blogspot.com, which she created to launch her forthcoming book, grow Create Inspire.
SToRy and ReCIPe By Crystal Stevens PHoTogRaPHy By Jennifer Silverberg
Vegan Sweet Potato Pub Cheese with Yukon Gold Potato Rounds Perennial Artisan Ales’ Black Walnut Dunkel is a chocolate brown German Dunkelweizen aged with Missouri black walnuts. This malty wheat beer gives the vegan pub cheese fuller body and richer flavor. Serves | 6 to 8 | Potato Rounds
6 1
extra virgin olive oil Yukon Gold potatoes, washed tsp sea salt
Pub Cheese
6 1 2 1 1 ½ 1
medium-large sweet potatoes, peeled and washed cup soy milk Tbsp sea salt tsp freshly ground black pepper Tbsp smoked paprika cup Perennial Artisan Ales’ Black Walnut Dunkel Tbsp soy sauce
| Preparation – Potato Rounds | Preheat oven to 425°F. Lightly oil a baking sheet and set aside. Slice potatoes into ¼-inch thick rounds. Place rounds in a large bowl and toss with sea salt and enough oil to evenly coat. Place rounds in a single layer on the baking sheet. Transfer baking sheet to oven and bake for 25 minutes or until potatoes are tender and slightly crispy around the edges. Broil for 1 to 2 minutes until golden and slightly crispy.
| Preparation – Pub Cheese | Cut sweet potatoes into 1-inch cubes. In a saucepot over medium-heat, boil potatoes until tender and slightly soft, about 25 minutes. Remove sweet potatoes from pot and drain, reserving water for thinning mixture. In the bowl of a food processor, place boiled sweet potatoes and all remaining ingredients except beer and pulse on highest speed for 2 minutes until smooth. If you need to thin mixture, add small amounts of reserved water as needed. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat sweet potato cheese, slowly incorporating beer. Heat for about 5 minutes on low, stirring regularly. Leave cheese over heat until potato rounds are finished baking, then remove from heat and transfer to a heat-proof bowl to serve.
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Food For The Soul
Kitchen · Bath · Home The Only Place In Kansas City To Find Award Winning Design, Fabulous Product Collections, The Midwest’s Largest Selection Of Cabinetry And The Ultimate Client Experience!
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Geri Higgins
www.portfolio -home.com Portfolio Kitchen & Home™ / Geri Higgins™ / Portfolio Kitchen & Home © 2014
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
51
mystery shopper
MEEt: RAMbutAn so you think you’re having a bad hair day? Unless you’re a rambutan, you don’t know the half of it. What is it?
rambutan fruit come from evergreen trees of the same name indigenous to southeast asia. Rambut is Malay for hairy, a truly accurate description of its bristly, tangled appearance. Unlike the prickly pear, those outer whiskers aren’t meant to hurt you; rather, they’re quite pliable and yield easily when squeezed. its bushy exterior belies the fruit’s inner personality, which is as soft and supple as a peeled grape or lychee, pale ivory in color, with a single, inedible seed in the center. Fresh rambutan is a rarity found outside of its native habitat: the fruit only ripens on the vine, often making long-distance transport difficult. if you do happen across the elusive fruit, grab some; you’ll see them pop into markets sporadically in late spring and again in mid to late autumn. if you don’t want to play the waiting game, rambutan is always available canned in international markets and provides an excellent substitute for the real thing.
story and recipe by Shannon Weber photography by Jennifer Silverberg
What do i do With it?
outer appearance aside, everything about rambutan is subtle: its flavor is softly sweet and sour, with muted floral notes. it’s chewier and denser than you’d expect, but nothing that would cause any hesitation; rather, the chewiness is part of the appeal. a single slice around the middle pops the shell off, revealing the tender fruit inside; a squeeze or an additional slice removes the seed. pair rambutan with boldly flavored fruits such as pineapple, passion fruit or raspberries to temper its flavor, or combine it with dragon fruit, pears and kiwi to elevate its sweetness. the fruit’s relatively neutral flavor makes it an excellent choice for savory dishes as well: Work rambutan into meat glazes, curries and spring rolls, and you won’t be disappointed. autumn tends to be an apple pie- and spice cake-heavy season, and frozen desserts seem to languish as the weather cools. this sorbet is one you’ll want to make over and over despite the chill in the air. it’s an east-meets-West offering: the familiarity of pears, the friendly-butforeign sweetness of rambutan and the spicy hint of fresh ginger.
Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as Bon Appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and in life.
Rambutan and GingerPoached Pear Sorbet Serves | 10 to 12 | GinGer-Poached Pears
3 1 1 1
cups water cup granulated sugar 2-inch piece fresh ginger, sliced thinly lb pears, peeled, cored and halved
rambutan sorbet
1¼
½ ¼
lbs fresh rambutan, peeled and pitted or 2 20-oz cans rambutan, drained (yields 1 lb fruit) ginger-poached pears (recipe below) cup poaching liquid (recipe below) cup light corn syrup
| Preparation – Ginger-Poached Pears | in a 6-quart heavy pot over medium heat, add water, sugar and ginger and stir until sugar dissolves. add pears to pot in a single layer. cut a piece of parchment paper to fit snugly inside the pot and press it gently on the pears until fruit is submerged. When water begins to boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 to 30 minutes until tender, depending on the ripeness of the pears. remove from heat and allow to cool in poaching liquid for several hours until pears are room temperature. Using a slotted spoon, gently remove pears and set aside. reserve poaching liquid in pot.
| Preparation – Poaching Liquid | place pot of poaching liquid (including whole pieces of ginger) over medium heat and reduce to approximately 2/3 cup. remove from heat and cool to room temperature.
| Preparation – Rambutan Sorbet | in the bowl of a food processor, add rambutan and poached pears and pulse until broken down. With the processor on, stream in ½ cup poaching liquid and corn syrup, running until mixture is smooth and homogenous. transfer to an airtight container and place in refrigerator until chilled, 4 to 6 hours. | To Serve | process sorbet in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions until thick and creamy. serve immediately (mixture will be soft) or transfer to an airtight container and place in the freezer until firm, 4 hours.
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Locally grown, harvested & served.
573-365-1777 1622 Horseshoe Bend Pkwy Lake Ozark, MO 65049 SavannahGrilleRestaurant.com
Festival ScarEecUrow R E K A
www.scarecrowfestivaleureka.com Beautiful fall colors provide the back drop for close to 100 handmade scarecrows on display throughout the City of Eureka. Experience the magic first hand the entire month of October. For more information on the scarecrows, events and a map of scarecrow locations, please visit the website or like us on facebook. www.facebook.com/ScarecrowFestivalEurekaMO
BREATHE AND DINE SMOKE-FREE
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IN
O ’Fallon, Missouri Arby’s 705 Highway K 4231 Highway K
(636) 240-1004 (636) 329-8896
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2119 Highway K
(636) 474-9727
Daddy Ray Burgers 8814 Veterans Memorial Pkwy
(636) 294-4885
Dairy Queen
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817 N Main St 9695 Veterans Memorial Pkwy
(636) 240-2194 (636) 978-8972
Fazoli’s Asian Bakeries, Confectionaries Bar & Grill Barbeque Coffee Shops/Cafés Deli, Sandwiches Family Fast Food
A unique opportunity to control the largest venue in the real Central West End. Ideal for:
Frozen Treats Italian Mexican
Restaurant • Entertainment/Event Venue • Microbrewery This one-of-a-kind space includes: Dramatic Dining/Entertainment Hall Additional Space for Dining/Retail/Kitchen/Office Basement with 2 Stairwells & Storage Area Outdoor Street-Side Dining Parking/Outdoor Area behind the building Driveway with Covered Portico Access to the 80+ Car Parking Lot directly across the street
Pizza Steakhouse, Seafood
(636) 240-7510 (636) 272-7242
Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) 8716 Veterans Memorial Pkwy
(636) 272-1500
Lion’s Choice 8710 Veterans Memorial Pkwy
(636) 978-6118
McDonald’s 2144 W Terra Ln 4001 Crusher Dr 1001 N Main St 2915 Highway K 101 Mcdonald Ln
(636) 332-2276 (636) 329-1551 (636) 978-3649 (636) 978-3155 (636) 240-8600
Rally’s (636) 978-8968
Sonic Drive-In
IT’S
ALL IN THE
312 S Main St
(636) 272-1838
Steak n Shake 2998 Highway K
(636) 240-2049
Taco Bell 603 S Main St 102 Fallon Pkwy
(636) 240-1288 (636) 978-9380
Wendy’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers
4707-15 McPherson Avenue, ½ Block East of Euclid
www.CWEvenue.com
(636) 240-7442
Jack in the Box 415 S Main St 910 Bryan Rd
506 S Main St
New HVAC, ADA-compliant bathrooms, fire sprinkler system, water & electric service to building. Visit the website for more photos & information on this amazing property:
1108 Highway K
Discover more O’Fallon restaurants and stores at
www.ofallon.mo.us
9701 Veterans Memorial Pkwy 4210 Highway K 1390 Mexico Loop Rd E
(636) 272-5230 (636) 329-8506 (636) 281-0423
White Castle 2212 Highway K
Inspired Local Food Culture
(636) 240-2015
OCTOBER 2014
53
menu options
PORk BAnh Mi wiTh hOMEMAdE MAYO The term banh mi actually means bread. The baguette traditionally used to make banh mi sandwiches is the product of French influence in Vietnam. It is not the dense, crunchy and chewy crust of a French baguette, though – Vietnamese banh mi is lighter and airier, with a thinner
SToRY AnD ReCIPe BY Tory Bahn PHotogRaPHy By Jennifer Silverberg
crust. Banh mi’s flavor-packed filling often includes pork products, but other protein substitutions include meatballs, pâté and chicken. Whatever protein you prefer, banh mi sandwiches are always stacked with fresh, fragrant herbs and vegetables and a healthy slather of mayonnaise.
cHef’S TiPS
Pork Banh Mi with Homemade Mayo Serves | 4 to 6 | Marinated Pork
right Whisk. Using a larger balloon whisk with thin wires will help when
whisking mayonnaise mixture to achieve an emulsion. Additionally, when preparing an emulsion – specifically for mayonnaise – it is imperative to properly whisk the first drops of oil. If too much oil is added too fast, you will likely not reach an emulsion. It is also helpful for the ingredients to be at room temperature. croWd control. When cooking your pork tenderloin, make sure not to
overcrowd the pan. This can not only drop the temperature drastically, but it can also cause steam cooking. In both cases, your meat will cook without developing any caramelization on the surface. Caramelization adds flavor, texture and a more attractive and satisfying final product. Pickling Potential. Get creative with pickling vegetables. Add daikon radish for a subtle kick or even hot or sweet peppers for layers of flavor. Allow vegetables to brine for at least 24 hours to fully develop flavor.
Make THe MeaL • Pork banh Mi sandwich with Pickled carrots and housemade Mayo • Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup • Spring Rolls • Fried Bananas
learn More. In this month’s class you’ll learn how to quick pickle just
about anything, work with rice paper for fresh spring rolls and prepare homemade mayonnaise, which is surprisingly easy to make and far more delicious than what comes out of a jar.
get hands-on: Join Feast and schnucks
Cooks Cooking school on Wed., oct. 22, at 6pm at the des Peres, Missouri, location to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $40 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.
2 3 1 2 2 2 ¼ 2 1½
garlic cloves, minced Tbsp fish sauce tsp soy sauce tsp sugar Tbsp freshly ground black pepper Tbsp yellow onion, minced cup grapeseed oil tsp toasted sesame seed oil lbs pork tenderloin, sliced about ¼-inch thick
Pickled carrots and shallots
½ ¼ 1¼ ½ ½ 3 1 1 1½
lb carrots, julienned lb large shallots, peeled and sliced into rounds cups water cup rice vinegar cup apple cider vinegar Tbsp sugar large garlic clove, minced Tbsp minced fresh ginger Tbsp kosher salt
hoMeMade Mayo (Yields 1½ cups)
2 2½ 2½ ½ ½ 1½
large egg yolks tsp fresh lemon juice tsp white wine vinegar tsp Dijon mustard tsp kosher salt cups grapeseed oil
asseMbly
2 ½
12-inch soft French baguettes English cucumber, sliced into rounds 2 large jalapeños, thinly sliced ½ bunch cilantro, with stems 6 to 8 large basil leaves
| Preparation – Marinated Pork | In a
medium bowl, add first 8 ingredients and mix to combine. Add pork and toss to coat. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature.
In a skillet over medium-high heat, add pork, a layer at a time. When one side is slightly browned, flip and finish cooking, about 1 to 2 minutes on each side.
| Preparation – Pickled Carrots and Shallots | Place carrots and shallots in a
medium bowl.
In a saucepan over medium heat, add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until sugar is dissolved. Pour liquid mixture over the bowl of carrots and shallots and toss to coat. Let cool at room temperature for 30 minutes.
| Preparation – Homemade Mayo | In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients except oil and whisk to combine. Using a measuring cup, measure ½ cup oil, and, drop by drop, add oil to egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly for about 5 minutes until it begins to thicken. Very slowly stream in remaining oil, whisking constantly, until mayo is thick, about 5 to 10 minutes. | Assembly | Slice loaves of bread
lengthwise. Spread mayo over each piece. Divide pork between 2 loaves. Top with pickled carrots and shallots and remaining ingredients. Slice sandwiches to serve.
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WATCH IT ON THESE NETWORKS
In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to see Feast TV on Sat., Oct. 4 at 2pm and Mon., Oct. 6 at 1pm. Feast TV will also air throughout the month on nineCREATE.
In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) on Sat., Oct. 18 at 2:30pm and then later that afternoon on KCPT2 (19.2) at 3:20pm.
You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) at 8:30pm on Thu., Oct. 23 and 6:30pm on Sun., Oct. 26.
Feast TV will air in the southern Illinois region on WSIU and WUSI beginning in November. Check wsiu.org or feastmagazine.com for listings.
In October, we’re exploring the richness of a Midwest autumn. Venture to Ava, Illinois, for a sip of Scratch Brewing’s farmhouse-style beer. Find out how two brothers are making their own masa out of a small factory in St. Louis. Get a firsthand look at the making of Wood Hat’s wood-fired spirits. And, head to Novel in Kansas City for a taste of chef Ryan Brazeal’s reimagined New American cuisine.
BEER EXPERTS
TV
Our Certified Beer Servers in the Cicerone® Program have been certified through the Craft Beer Institute after passing different levels of certification. You can count on them to help you find beers to serve with dinner or to enjoy on their own. Cheers!
Metro St. Louis Arsenal Culinaria Hampton
North
Bridgeton Florissant
West
5055 Arsenal 315 N. 9th St. 60 Hampton Village Plaza
11253 St. Charles Rock Rd. 314 738-0677 Dan Malone 8200 N. Lindbergh 314 921-7060 Andrew George Carri George
Ballwin
15425 Manchester Rd.
Brentwood
8800 Manchester
Chesterfield Creve Coeur Des Peres
141 Hilltown Village Ctr. 10650 Olive Blvd. 12332 Manchester Rd.
Dillon Dorsett
#20 Gravois Dillon Plaza 2030 Dorsett Rd.
Kehrs Mill
2511 Kehrs Mill Rd.
Kirkwood
10233 Manchester Rd.
Ladue Lindbergh Richmond Hts.
8867 Ladue Rd. 10275 Clayton Rd. 6600 Clayton Rd.
Twin Oaks Webster Groves Wildwood Woods Mill
1393 Big Bend, Ste. 1 8650 Big Bend 16580 Manchester 1060 Woods Mill Plaza
South
314 771-5008 Judy Ivery 314 436-7694 Steve Feltz 314 353-5060 Ryan Glasscock Mark Waller
Affton Butler Hill
10070 Gravois 4333 Butler Hill Rd.
Crestwood Eureka
9540 Watson Rd. 245 East 5th Street
Richardson Telegraph
3900 Vogel Rd. 5519 Oakville Shop. Ctr.
636 256-0644 Cathy Ganousis Stacey Seipp 314 961-5454 Sal Aldana Brett Decker Rob Marsek Bob Schrautemeier 636 532-2505 Kandis Lovcik 314 567-3838 Kevin McCartney 314 965-3094 Jamie George Wes Powers Matt Wider 636 677-0061 Robbie Mannier 314 434-3147 Kate Berry Vince Woehler 636 207-3401 Ken Fahey Fred McMachan 314 965-7310 Mary Anderson Caleb Hirsch 314 725-7574 Tom End 314 991-0510 Stephen Gitto 314 644-0510 Brian Battocletti Tony Kreuztman Joe Markus Janet Nicoletti Tanya Wilkerson 636 225-3777 Michele Becker 314 961-0555 Barbara Hunt 636 458-5544 Mary Jo Gilsinn 636 227-2278 Larry Leisse Gary Paplanus Angie Reichert 314 631-8220 Gibb Brewer 314 894-1227 Brian Carmody Beth Glass 314 849-0341 Mark Harris 636 938-4102 Brittny Hawley Chad Tedrow 636 282-3377 Jill Smith 314 892-6401 Shelly Moore
St. Charles County Cottleville
636 498-0108 David Bradford Don Wagner Harvester 48 Plaza Ninety-Four Dr. 636 928-1623 Joe Kampelman Lake Saint Louis 101 Civic Center Dr. 636 561-1922 Dan Hunt Mid Rivers 577 Mid Rivers Mall Dr. 636 970-2570 Heather Hicks O’Fallon 8660 Veterans Mem. Pkwy. 636 978-3566 Bruce Marchi Wentzville 1960 Wentzville Pkwy. 636 332-8468 Trish Canavan
Illinois
Alton Centralia Edwardsville Market Place Seven Hills
Feast TV is presented by Missouri Wines with additional support from Whole Foods Market and Roth Living.
6083 Mid Rivers Mall Dr.
2811 Homer Adams Pkwy. 618 465-6673 David Bagwill 1129 W. Broadway 618 532-4449 BJ Lamb 2222 Troy Rd. 618 659-0010 Josh Koller Justin Walker 1000 Columbia Centre Dr. 618 281-6300 Tony Mikoff 907 E. Highway 50 618 632-5525 Adam Kunz
We have more Certified Beer Servers in the Cicerone® Program than any other local grocer.
schnucks.com Inspired Local Food Culture
©2014 Schnucks
OCTOBER 2014
55
sweet ideas
MiSSOuRi pEcAn FinAnciER wiTh SpicEd pEAR BuTTER
STOry And reCIPe By Christy Augustin PHOTOgrAPHy By Cheryl Waller
There’s nothing like that first chill in the air to signal the beginning of fall in the Midwest. The leaves begin to turn, you switch to flannel sheets on your bed and you start drinking mulled cider in the evenings. Preserving fall’s harvest is foremost on my mind – I can’t possibly bake every last pear and apple into pies. Coupled with Johnny Appleseed’s legacy comes an Ozark heritage of our own: Missouri pecans. They are small, sweet and buttery – quite different than the larger Southern pecans found in most grocery aisles – and deserve their own special recipes. Financier are small French tea cakes, so named because of the traditional little rectangle
molds they are baked into in France (they look like gold bars and are a favorite snack of hurried bankers). At Pint Size Bakery & Coffee, we bake financier into madeleine molds to combine two fabulous treats into one. They are addictive straight from the oven and even more so served with homemade spiced pear butter. Here, we make the butter in a crockpot, and you won’t believe how easy it is.
Missouri Pecan Financier with Spiced Pear Butter
cheF’s tiP: When separating egg yolks for the pecan financier, be careful to not get any yolk in the whites, as fat is the enemy of whipped egg whites. If you prefer apples to local pears, they are easy substitutes in this recipe. Try them with cinnamon and cloves.
¼ 1/3 1/3 ¼ ½ ¼
Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.
Serves | 4 to 6 | Pear Butter (Yields 1 quart)
9
local pears, peeled, cored and roughly chopped cup apple cider or apple juice cup local honey cup brown sugar tsp fresh ginger, grated tsp ground cardamom tsp freshly ground black pepper pinch ground mace or nutmeg pinch ground allspice
Pecan Financier
(Yields 12 to 14 madeleines) 4 Tbsp unsalted butter ¾ cup powdered sugar ¼ cup unbleached, all-purpose flour ¼ tsp baking powder ¼ cup finely ground Missouri pecans (½ cup whole pecans should yield ¼ cup ground) 1 Tbsp honey 1 tsp dark rum or vanilla extract 3 large egg whites, separated pinch kosher salt
| Preparation – Pear Butter | In a crockpot, combine all ingredients and cook on low for 8 to 10 hours. Using a handheld blender, purée butter until smooth. Butter will keep in the refrigerator for weeks.
| Preparation – Financier | Preheat oven to 375°F. In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt butter on medium-low heat until sizzling stops and milk solids have turned a light, golden brown. Immediately pour browned butter into a heat-proof container and set aside to cool. Sift sugar, flour and baking powder into a medium bowl, then stir in ground pecans. Combine browned butter, honey, rum and 1 egg white. Using a spatula or wooden spoon, stir wet ingredients into dry mix to make a soft paste. In another small bowl, whisk 2 remaining egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. Fold whipped egg whites into batter and refrigerate at least 8 hours before baking. Pipe chilled batter into madeleine molds or mini muffin tins sprayed with cooking oil and bake for 15 minutes until golden brown. Serve with pear butter.
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JOIN US! Wine Wednesday: Let Chef Mehmet take you on a culinary adventure with special wine pairings & select bottles half price all day. Thursday: Dine, Drink & Belly Dance with weekly cocktail specials & exciting belly dance performances. Sunday Brunch & Dinner: Enjoy an amazing breakfast menu with our delicious boozy breakfast cocktails & Family Dinner Night. Lunch: Tues-Fri - Dinner: Tues-Sun - Sunday Brunch Happy Hour: Tues-Fri
6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com
At Skypark, your first day is free. SkyPark is already the best parking value at Lambert. We offer the newest fleet of shuttles and the most courteous staff. If you like our basic service, you’ll love our valet service – with available car wash and oil change – so you’re ready to roll as soon as you touch down.
Use this coupon to get your first day free and pay just $6 a day for the rest of your stay.* Name
*Coupon valid for Self-Park only. Requires minimum two-day stay (one day free; one day at $6). Expires December 31, 2014. Not valid with any other SkyPark offer. Name and email information required in order to use coupon.
4500 Crestshire Lane • St. Ann • 314.423.3800 • skypar kstl. com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
57
Fall is the best time to enjoy shopping, activities and outdoor dining in Downtown Kirkwood. Kirkwood Station Brewery Enjoy award-winning Pumpkin Ale
Haiti Orphan Project 5k
Run to support the orphans October 4th
Glennon Card Preview Night
Discounts on October 23 for card holders
Alpine Shop Fall Swap Oct. 17-19 Save and swap clothing and gear
Downtown Kirkwood Holiday Walk is November 22 Join us for the arrival of Santa, in-store specials & holiday festivities…. Events and activities subject to change
(314)822-0084
•
www.downtownkirkwood.com
®
It’s Fall,
Come try our Fresh Brewed
Pumpkin Ale
or Enjoy any of our Award Winning Beers.
“Cheers!”
105 E Jefferson Ave St Louis, MO 63122
(314) 966-2739 Open Daily for Lunch and Dinner SUNDAY-TUESDAY 11am-10 pm
WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY 11am-1:30 am
KirkwoodStationBrewing.com 58
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
Fairly Traded Handicrafts From Around the World
Gift Cards Available! Try our 18oz.
Prime Ribeye
enhanced by a delicious Mushroom Burgundy sauce, creamy garlic mashed potatoes and Rose Bud Salad.
Conveniently located in Kirkwood Dinner Hours: Tues. - Sun. 5 p.m. 133 West Clinton Place St. Louis, MO 63122 314.965.9005 www.citizenkanes.com
Basket from Ghana
$40 each
Hand-made Guatemalan Handbags, made of recycled woven fabric and trimmed in leather. $24-$30
Kirkwood
137 W. Jefferson • 314-909-9401 Mon-Sat 10-6 www.plowsharing.org
“The 25 Hottest Hamburgers in America!” – Eater National “One of the Best 50 Burgers in the United States” – USA Today
NEW IN KIRKWOOD
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“Best Gourmet
“Burger Brilliance” Burgers” Ian Froeb, St. Louis Post-Dispatch – St. Louis Magazine July 2014 “A-List”
•OPEN EVERY DAY / FARMERS ON SATURDAY MORNINGS •LOCALLY GROWN PRODUCE •FALL FLOWERS & PUMPKINS •SEASONAL DECORATIONS •CANDIES & TREATS
a
150 East Argonne Drive 314.822-0084
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Hormone & Antibiotic Free
HAPPY HOUR 4-6PM DAILY SALADS I SHAKES I FULL BAR 312 South Kirkwood Road • 5starburgersstl.com 314-394-2250 • MON-SAT 11-10 SUN 11-9
Free Parking Free Parkingininour ourvery veryown own lot! lot! Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
59
PICTURED LEFT: Corn that has swelled
after soaking in lime. PICTURED RIGHT: Volcanic stones grind corn into masa.
60
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
masa for the masses
Written by Shannon Cothran
|
pHOTOGRAPHY by Jonathan Gayman
Beige bags filled with white corn are stacked in a corner of the Tilford Restaurant Group (TRG) kitchen in The Hill neighborhood of St. Louis. They are piled 5 feet high, 10 feet across and 3 feet deep. This is where, three days a week, Peter Schweiss, the TRG’s culinary operations manager and masa maker, and DeVonte Shivers, the assistant manager, make masa, a dough for tortillas, tamales and other Mexican foods. They load 300 pounds of corn with water and food-grade lime (or calcium hydroxide) into an enormous, rolling kettle, which looks like a huge metal box without a lid. They put it under a
giant hood, connect the gas line and light the rows of burners underneath it. In about 30 minutes, when the mixture reaches the desired temperature, Schweiss turns the heat off and leaves the corn to steep overnight. When the two arrive the next day, the corn has swollen 50 percent larger, and the indigestible outside yellowish hull has melted off each kernel. Shivers rolls the kettle over to a washer that spins the corn up into a chute before it is sprayed down to remove the hulls. Schweiss and Shivers are careful to remove just the right amount of hull as the corn moves up the chute and out into the grinder.
making masa begins. Two specially designed volcanic stones grind the corn into dough. Each stone looks like a wheel from Fred Flintstone’s car: 6 inches deep and black, with grooves cut into its surface. The grooves begin large at the center and, as they reach the edge, slowly become smaller. The changing size of the grooves is what grinds the corn precisely to become the right consistency for masa. Schweiss calculates that the process yields between 400 and 450 pounds of masa, which he loads into 9-pound tubs ready to deliver to TRG’s restaurants. “At about 1½ ounces of masa per tortilla, we get about 80 tortillas per bucket, give or take,” Schweiss says.
“The yellow hull does two things,” explains Jason Tilford, executive chef and co-founder of TRG. “It acts as a natural binder for the tortilla. It’s gummy. And it gives it the corn color. The more [hulls] we take off, the whiter the masa will be. We like a little bit of yellow.” Once the corn is in the grinder, the magic of
soft, thick and chewy... 52
feastmagazine.com
SEPTEMBER 2014
“Maseca yielded a drier product,” Jason says. “It doesn’t have the natural gumminess that masa has. That’s why when you get tacos at a taco stand, they give you two tortillas. The first one soaks up all the stuff, and the second one holds it together.”
Market for Masa At Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen, orders of cheese enfrijoladas are served with tortillas made of the company’s masa. The tortillas are wrapped loosely around Monterey Jack cheese and then baked in black bean sauce, fresh cilantro and a drizzle of sour cream. If you pierce the tortilla with your fork and eat a cheesy bite, you’ll immediately notice the difference between these tortillas and the ones you buy at the market: Soft, thick and chewy, they taste like fresh corn. Tortillas like this can only be found at four restaurants in the St. Louis area. Brothers Jason and Adam Tilford, co-founders of TRG, own Tortillaria, Milagro Modern Mexican and two Mission Taco Joint locations.
For years, their restaurants have been extremely popular, but the Tilfords weren’t satisfied only with success. They wanted to make the best Mexican food in the Midwest, and there was one problem keeping them up at night: They believed their tortillas could be better. The brothers knew the best tortillas are made with masa. Years ago they tried buying fresh masa from Chicago, but it would spoil before it arrived in St. Louis. So they made their tortillas with Maseca, a corn flour that chefs mix with water to make tortilla dough. “For years, Maseca was all you could get in St. Louis,” Adam says. The tortillas were good, but drier than those made with real masa. And they kept breaking in half. “The birria [taco] was one we had a problem with,” Schweiss says. “It’s one of our beef tacos. It would just split.”
Maseca isn’t a bad product; it is, after all, “one step above what you can buy in a grocery store,” according to Adam. But fresh-ground masa is best for flavor. “A tortilla made with Maseca is going be better than store-bought, but this is the next level,” Adam says. “These are just corn, lime and water. They just taste like corn.” Jason says that using masa also solved the other problem: “They never break. We can just use one tortilla [to] highlight the flavors of the fillings. We can also adjust the thickness of the tortilla. There are a lot of variables we can adjust to create tortillas just how we like them.” Adam and Jason met with masa experts, traveled to Chicago to tour a masa kitchen and then purchased a building in St. Louis. They also partnered with Rovey Seed in Farmersville, Illinois, for fresh corn. After months of preparation, production got underway this past June, and the Tilfords began making masa to take their tortillas to the next level.
PICTURED LEFT AND RIGHT: Fresh masa is rolled and pressed into soft, chewy tortillas that are ready to be cooked and served.
Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
63
exPandinG slow food The TRG kitchen provides the Tilfords with a better product and supports local food production. But it’s also a labor of love for the brothers. “Right now, this is being supported by the restaurants,” Adam says. “It’s costing us a lot more to do this instead of Maseca. Slow food is definitely not cheap.” Plans are in the works to increase the kitchen’s bottom line by producing other staple ingredients for their restaurants, including tamale masa and made-from-scratch bread. In the corner of the kitchen sits a small stack of bags full of blue corn for tamale masa. “It’s two types of masa that we’re making,” Adam explains. “And there is more of a market in St. Louis for the tamale masa, for us to distribute that to other people because you don’t need special equipment [to make tamales]. What you can get now is powdered or frozen from Chicago.”
He continues: “We bought a lime juicer; we’re juicing our own limes. At each restaurant, [employees] were spending two to three hours a day juicing limes with a little hand-juicer. Now, Pete [Schweiss] juices them with the juicer and distributes fresh lime juice to the restaurants each day. And in doing that, we’re buying pallets of limes at a time and getting them at a much reduced cost. So we’re trying to use [the kitchen] for other things for cost-cutting.” The brothers will also expand what the kitchen produces. “Every day there’s a new idea of something we can do,” Jason continues. “We’ve talked about salsas, hot sauces and chorizo sausage. We make homemade chorizo in all the restaurants. The goal is to bring all the things we make in the restaurants here. We started making churro batter here now.” “You do a taco rub…” Adam adds, trailing off as both brothers pause to think about the
expanding list of ingredients they will begin producing at the TRG kitchen. The Tilfords are currently designing a food truck that they plan to open in the near future, and their restaurants are frequently vendors at area festivals, so eats for the truck and events will be prepared in the kitchen as well. “This is really centrally located for Soulard, Delmar, Webster Groves and the Central West End; it’s the perfect spot,” Jason says. The brothers are also committed to figuring out a way to sell their masa. “This time next year, we’ll probably either be doing tortillas [for other restaurants] or have exhausted an attempt to do tortillas. There’s a demand for tortillas. We use masa for our restaurants because we have tortillapressing machines. A guy like Josh Galliano [chef at The Libertine] doesn’t have a tortilla-pressing machine. Other people have inquired and said they
would love to buy tortillas from us. They don’t want the masa; they want the tortillas. If we got that going, we’d be in restaurants and farmers markets.” buildinG on the foundation The foundation of good food is quality ingredients, Jason says: “It all starts with the chef’s concept of good food in, good food out. Start with quality food instead of buying low -quality food and trying to make it taste good.” Tortillas are a foundational part of Mexican cuisine, and the Tilfords have already made the tortillas in their restaurants the best they can be. If their tortillas end up in other restaurants and markets, the brothers will be contributing to a better foundation and increased quality in restaurants across the region. Adam says he’s watched the local food scene explode in the past decade, and he and his brother just want to do their part. They’re just getting started.
Go inside the Tilford brothers’ St. Louis masa factory and learn more about how it’s made in the October episode of Feast TV.
... they taste like fresh corn. %PG
feastmagazine.com
OCTOBER 2014
m ag a z i n e to t s ce ea F nt e ra m o l c l m e o W
to the n la e t ke s i l !
Classic Rock and More
DoWnloaD our Free app on your our smar smart phone anD lis listen to us anyWhere!
www.krmsradio.com msradio.com www.lakejob.com 935rocksthelake.com ocksthelake.com Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
65
Creative Spirit Missouri’s Gary Hinegardner distills whiskey with imagination Written by Liz
Miller
Photography by Travis
Duncan
Of the hundreds of varieties of corn grown in the U.S., the majority of American whiskeys and bourbons are made with only one: No. 2 yellow. “If you’re gonna make bourbon in the U.S., it has to be 51 percent corn, but the law doesn’t say whether that’s red corn, yellow, waxy or white – it says corn,” says Gary Hinegardner, owner and distiller of Wood Hat Spirits in New Florence, Missouri. “There are a lot of different types of corn for specialty purposes, and we haven’t really addressed that in the whiskey business, so we’re using blue corn. “The kind of corn that goes into it does make a difference. If you’ve ever had blue corn chips, do they taste exactly like yellow corn chips? How would you describe the difference in taste? It’s difficult to say. It’s a subtle difference, but if you’re going to drink something and enjoy it, that subtle little difference can make all the difference.” Since founding and opening Wood Hat earlier this year, Hinegardner has released five flagship products made partially with blue corn, including two whiskeys, two bourbons and a cordial. The more you learn about Hinegardner and the path that led him to distilling whiskey, the more you begin to understand his sharp, keen mind and profound imagination. All of his life experiences, no matter how diverse, have each contributed to his success with Wood Hat. The strongest constant throughout Hinegardner’s career has been his passion for agriculture; in one form or another, he has spent most of his life growing corn, soybeans and wheat. He’s worked as an agronomist and consultant, helping farmers improve their crops and deal with various farming challenges. He has a bachelor’s degree in biology and a master’s degree in agronomy. (“I went to school to learn how to make ethanol for farm fuel,” he says. “It’s very similar [to making whiskey] – they’re making BTUs and we’re making taste.”) Hinegardner has traveled the world, visited 11 foreign countries – in the 1970s he worked in agriculture in India as a Peace Corps volunteer
PICTURED: Gary Hinegardner poses next to some
of the small barrels he uses for aging whiskey.
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during the Green Revolution – and has had many careers in the past 60-some years. Before founding Wood Hat, Hinegardner worked for a Missouri company that produces a range of products including white-oak barrels. “All whiskey barrels, for the most part, all over the world – I don’t care if it’s in Europe, South Africa, Australia – most of it comes from right here in Missouri,” he says. “We are the whiskey barrel-producing capital of the world, which always surprised me… why don’t we make our own barrels and our own whiskey? It’s our corn, our wheat, our barrels, and we ship all this stuff out and then buy back expensive whiskey. So, I thought, ‘I’m gonna do it.’”
Wooden Hats and Wood-Fired WHiskey
Standing inside Wood Hat’s small tasting room in New Florence, it’s hard to know where to focus your gaze. The distillery floor is situated just off the tasting room, affording customers a front -row view of the whiskey-making process and allowing Hinegardner to quickly move between working in the distillery and greeting guests in the tasting room. As fascinating as the distillery’s custom-made still – with an impressive 18-inch copper bubble-cap distillation column – and large, stainless steel fermentation tanks are to behold, it’s easy for your eyes to wander toward the collection of wooden Bowler hats, newsboy caps and sun hats displayed in the tasting room. Aside from agriculture, the other constant throughout Hinegardner’s career has been wood turning. He’ll tell you that it’s just a hobby 40 years in the making, but the wooden hats, bowls, platters and more that Hinegardener turns on a simple lathe are true works of art. He learned how to make hats from professional wood turner JoHannes Michelsen, but they have always been Hinegardner’s specialty – signature, even. When it came time to name his new distillery, it only made sense to call it Wood Hat. “Making a hat is a lot like making whiskey,” he says. “You take a raw product, and then you just throw away everything you don’t want to make a good-quality product. You start with a wood chunk and just throw away everything away that’s not a good hat. And that’s what I do with whiskey. I start with what the yeast makes up, and I separate the parts that don’t make good whiskey.” To make a typical wide-brimmed wooden sun hat, Hinegardner slowly cuts a tree stump-sized piece of Missouri green wood until it’s the exact shape, width and weight he wants. The wood must be incredibly thin, so Hinegardner works in the dark to better see the light that goes through the wood. The final products are thinner and lighter than felt material, and to hold one in your hands is to understand the level of patience, precision and perfectionism Hinegardner applies to his work. Wood turning also inspired more than the company’s name: When it came time to choose a heat source to power the distillery, Hinegardner built a wood-fired furnace. He was already salvaging large pieces of wood for turning, and unlike electricity or burning coal or natural gas for heat, wood is a local, renewable resource. Although the wood-fired furnace has nothing to do with the flavor of his whiskeys and bourbons, Hinegardner
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PICTURED LEFT: Hinegardner’s custom-made pot still with an impressive 18-inch
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says the furnace’s lower, subtler heat gives him more control over the distilling process: “It gives me a better chance to make the right cuts.” When Hinegardner says things like “make the right cuts” and “throw away everything you don’t want,” he’s referring to what he considers the most crucial part of distilling whiskey with a pot still, a process that includes making cuts that isolate three parts of the distillate: the heads, the hearts and the tails.
From Field to Glass
The corn and wheat Hinegardner uses to make his products are grown and harvested at a family friend’s farm in Montgomery County, where the small city of New Florence is located. In less than a week, Hinegardner can take freshly ground corn and wheat, cook it, distill it and – if it’s not being barrel-aged – bottle it for sale. On day one of distilling a new batch of whiskey, Hinegardner begins at around 6am, adding water to a cooker and bringing the temperature up before adding corn. From there, he lets it cook, stirring it occasionally, and adds enzymes to break down the starch into sugar. He allows the mixture cook and cool. Fourteen hours later, at around 8pm, he adds yeast and lets the fermentation process begin. “We’ve got cooling coils in [the cooker] to keep it cool,” he says. “You don’t have to heat it; yeast makes its own heat. It’s like 10,000 people in the same sleeping bag – it’s gonna get hot in there, so we have to constantly cool it, keep the temperature at the right range, otherwise they make more heads than tails. By treating the yeast properly, it makes a better product.” During the week before the mixture is distilled, Hinegardner says little maintenance is required besides maintaining temperature – he may feed the yeast some nutrients (“… kind of depends how fast it’s going and how much carbon dioxide has been produced…”), and he might stir it (“… but with the process of fermentation, it stirs itself; the carbon dioxide that comes out of it just kind of keeps it moving…”). Otherwise, before the end of the week, the mixture is ready to be cut – a process that involves monitoring the temperature and percentage of alcohol by volume as well as the taste and the aroma. “The difference between the heads and the hearts … what is that? There’s not a bell or a whistle going off; it’s all sight,” he says. “That’s a subjective judgment, when you want to do that. If I’ve got 10 seconds to make that cut, or I’ve got four hours to make that cut, four hours is a better way. By wood-firing at a lower temperature, it gives me a longer period of time to decide it’s here, or it’s here, or it’s here.” The first cuts are the heads, which are made up of methanols and what Hinegardner describes as “solvent tastes;” the hearts are cut second and include two-carbon alcohols,
PICTURED: Gary Hinegardner built the wood-fired
furnace he uses to power the distillery.
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OCTOBER 2014
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the ethanols; and the third cuts, the tails, are “the real heavy alcohols.” Hinegardner is only concerned with keeping the hearts in the still and throws out the heads and the tails. “In a pot still, you can separate the different parts out, as opposed to a continuous-flow still, where you really can’t,” he says. “All the major [distilleries] use continuous flow; it’s a lot more efficient; you can make cheaper whiskey – and that’s exactly what you get, cheaper whiskey – ‘cause you leave in all the parts, and if you want to make a goodquality whiskey, you only keep the best.” Once the mixture reaches between 166°F to 193°F, it’s ready to be distilled. If he’s making blue corn whiskey, the spirit will take one of two journeys, the shortest being from still to bottle as Wood Hat’s signature un-aged Blue
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Corn Whiskey. If the whiskey is being used to make the company’s Aged Blue Corn Whiskey, Hinegardner toasts the insides of Chinkapin oak barrels – as opposed to charring them – to bring out the wood’s subtle flavor, and ages the whiskey in it for about six months. Otherwise, Wood Hat’s bourbon, made with yellow corn and wheat, will be transferred to a small, 3-year-old, air-dried white-oak charred barrel, where it will age for about six months before it’s bottled as Montgomery County Bourbon Whiskey. The white oak barrels Hinegardner uses to age his spirits are much smaller than standard barrels, another inspired element of Wood Hat’s production. “We use smaller barrels so the surface-area dividing ratio is much less,” Hinegardner says. “If you have a 15-gallon barrel, the surface -area dividing ratio is three times more than a big
barrel, so it makes sense that if you’re going to take two years [to age bourbon] in a big barrel, it will take about six months in a small barrel.” One product that’s always aged for six months is Wood Hat’s Bourbon Rubenesque, a 100-proof, full-bodied bourbon whiskey. To make the Rubenesque, Hinegardner ages the whiskey in charred Chinkapin barrels for six months. Hinegardner believes that by aging his spirits in smaller barrels that have been air-dried for three years – coupled with Missouri’s fluctuating temperatures and barometric pressure – that aging his products for more than six months is simply unnecessary. “We’ve been brainwashed, so to speak, to think time is the only factor [in aging bourbon] – it is
not the only factor,” Hinegardner says. “The guy who makes [our barrels] in Cuba, Missouri, lets [the wood] sit outside for three years before he makes the barrels. That barrel is going to taste differently than wood that sat out for two or three months and then [is used to] make a barrel – it doesn’t have a chance for the rain to wash out all the tannins, the sap taste and so forth. It has a different taste because a lot of those things that are water-soluble do wash out. It’s just another factor in aging.” Before opening Wood Hat, Hinegardner traveled to Scotland, where he visited nine distilleries in various parts of the country. The trip was more for pleasure than research; like the corn, wheat and oak barrels produced in Missouri, Hinegardner believes the Midwest’s climate and atmospheric pressure are the
best in the world for whiskey production – specifically, quick whiskey production. “The key to their process [in Scotland] is a long aging period – 10 years, 15 years,” he says. “We can make a better whiskey [in Missouri] in a lot less time. Part of it is the fact that they use old barrels; part of it is the fact that they don’t throw [the heads and tails] away – they put it all in the barrel. I don’t want to wait 10 years. No sense in putting it in the barrel to start with. So we throw out the heads, we throw out the tails and we just put the hearts in, and then we use a smaller barrel. “Then you also have the charcoal layer on the inside of the barrel. As the barometric pressure and temperature [changes], the whiskey goes into the wood and back out, into the wood and back out. Here in Missouri, in the morning it
will be 30°F, and by mid-afternoon it could be 85°F, every day. If you go to Scotland and look at the weather forecast for the next week, there may be a five-degree change in a week, [and the whiskey] just sits there, stagnant. Here, our fronts come in, and the barometric pressure changes every day, so it’s pushing that alcohol in the wood and bringing it back out.”
Top Honors and FuTure plans
In April 2014, just four months after Wood Hat opened for business, three of the company’s five products took home prestigious national awards. Its Blue Corn Whiskey won the American Craft Distilling Association’s silver medal and its Bourbon Rubenesque was awarded a bronze medal, while its Berry Berry Cordial won the bronze at the American Distilling Institute.
In less than a year, the company has also expanded its distribution, with products available in stores in St. Louis, Kansas City and Columbia, Missouri. Hinegardner isn’t interested in growing too big, too fast, though. Right now he’s happy with the success he’s had so far, and he’s focused on refining his process and balancing sales and production. There are a few new products he’s researching – maybe aging bourbon in Chinkapin and pecan barrels to make a double-wood bourbon, aging whiskey in beer barrels instead of Chinkapin or making whiskey with local honey.
Learn more about Gary Hinegardner and the process behind how he distills Wood Hat’s line of spirits in the October episode of Feast TV.
Whatever comes next for Wood Hat, you can bet that its spirits will always be made with ingredients grown in the fields of Montgomery County, and new ideas and innovations will continue to spring from the clever mind and imagination of Gary Hinegardner.
Wood HaT spiriTs TasTing noTes BOurBOn ruBenesque. Bourbon
Rubenesque is aged for six months in small barrels made from 3-year-old wood and has robust flavor without bite. MOntGOMery COunty BOurBOn. Aged six months in small barrels, all of the ingredients used to make this bourbon are grown in Montgomery County. AGed BLue COrn WHiskey. This whiskey spends six months in toasted Chinkapin barrels that have been aged outside for three years, giving it an oaky, smooth finish. BLue COrn WHiskey. The blue corn used
in this whiskey gives the spirit a sweet, nutty flavor. Berry Berry COrdiAL. This cordial is
made with locally grown blackberries and Wood Hat’s blue corn whiskey. PLuM LOCAL COrdiAL. Made with locally grown plums, Hinegardner says the cordial will be available in December. OzArk BLACk WALnut Liqueur. Black
walnuts are steeped in spirits made with local grains, then the walnuts are removed and the alcohol is mixed with simple syrup and spices to make an aromatic, bittersweet after-dinner drink. Hinegardner says the liqueur will be available in December.
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iowa’s la quercia
pioneers a new approach to cured meats Written by Stephanie Hall photography by Aaron Ottis
ItAlIAnS tOld Herb eckHOuSe He’d never pull it off. “you don’t have the right land, the right air or the right pigs,” they said. “you won’t be able to make american-made prosciutto.” after working in italy, herb and his wife, Kathy, returned home with a renewed appreciation for the bountiful, fertile land in their native iowa. in the picturesque pastures of norwalk, just outside of Des Moines, the eckhouses wanted to build a business that would also cultivate the state’s rich agricultural potential. ten years after moving back to the States, the couple spent several months meticulously researching the market and making prosciutto in the family basement. “We perceived that there had been an evolution with beer, wine and cheese, and it was evolving very rapidly,” herb says. “We thought there’d be the same opportunity with cured meats. What we were really trying to do was not make italian prosciutto, but make american prosciutto. the idea’s always been that this comes from american soil and has characteristics that make it distinct from others.” in late 2000, the eckhouses founded La Quercia (pronounced kwair-cha). they were far from the first americans to produce prosciutto, but herb’s vision for the company immediately set La Quercia apart. he wanted to create Midwest -sourced prosciutto that specialized in humanely raised heritage-breed pigs. the eckhouses named their first commercial line of prosciutto americano, and before long, it was garnering national attention. acclaimed chefs including paul Kahan of Chicago’s avec and iron Chef Michael Symon quickly became believers. in the pages of Bon Appétit, La Quercia’s prosciutto was heralded as one of the best in america, described as being able to “…make an italian weep with its award-winning balance of salty, creamy, sweet and rich.” in July, La Quercia launched a weeklong campaign dubbed ham independence that, according to herb, was intended to represent the american market’s independence from european dry-cured ham imports. the company toted a good-natured slogan in support of the celebration: “too long have americans toiled under the hoof of foreign ham powers! no longer dependent on other nations for artisan cured ham, america is finally ready to assume its rightful place.” PrOScIuttO Of HAPPIneSS Simply put, prosciutto is thinly sliced, dry-cured ham. it’s known for its complex and variable flavors: creamy, nutty, sweet and clean. producers can cure it with spices or smoke it to achieve different effects. prosciutto comes from the pig’s rear leg, but other parts of the pig, including the back, ribs and even the jowl, can also be dry-cured. herb passionately believes that the flavor of prosciutto is dependent upon the breed of pigs used. that’s one thing the italians were right
about; most of the Midwest’s pigs weren’t the “right” type. The Eckhouses wanted pigs that weren’t raised in confinement or fed nontherapeutic antibiotics. They were looking for heritage breeds that represented less than half a percent of Iowa’s 20 million pigs. They found a small amount at farms like Californiabased Niman Ranch, which works with small independent farmers across the country, and Missouri-based Heritage Acres, where pigs are raised to La Quercia’s standards. Using meat from these farms, the Eckhouses cured some sample prosciutto and fell in love with the deep, clean flavor with just a hint of sweetness that would become the company’s famous Americano prosciutto. Today, the Americano remains La Quercia’s most popular product, accounting for more than half of its sales. After building up the initial Americano line, the Eckhouses sought to develop new lines of prosciutto using heritage-breed pigs. Pork breeds differ in fat quality, water capacity, muscle structure and fibers, which all affect the flavor of the final cured product. In the beginning, Herb struggled to convey these differences to clients, so he began using the term “varietal” – a word borrowed from wine culture – to encompass the message. Just as wines made from specific grape varietals vary, so do La Quercia’s cured products, each made from different heritage breeds. Over the years, the Eckhouses have broadened the Americano line to include other dried, cured cuts, including pancetta (belly), coppa (shoulder), lomo (loin) and guanciale (cheek or jowl). While producing the Americano, the Eckhouses also endeavored to make an organic varietal of prosciutto. In searching for a farm that met their needs and standards, the couple came upon Becker Lane Organic Farm in Dyersville, Iowa, which feeds its pigs 100 percent organic food. According to Herb, the feed makes all the difference – it gives the finished product an astounding depth of flavor with a malty, savory finish. La Quercia’s organic prosciutto is the first – and so far, only – of its kind made in America. In 2006, the company launched a partnership with Des Moines-based Berkwood Farms to produce La Quercia Rossa, a Berkshire prosciutto, the first single-breed prosciutto made in the U.S. Herb says the Berkshire breed’s muscle fibers are shorter than most, creating a more tender, richer product. In the past few years, the Eckhouses acquired a supply of red-haired Tamworth pigs – a threatened breed. When dried and aged, Tamworth meat develops a deep caramel flavor. La Quercia released a line of Tamworth smoked pancetta to complement the sweet, nutty flavor with a smoky finish. Herb says chefs love the pancetta because of the product’s fattiness and richness. Due to its popularity, the company also introduced a line of prosciutto made with 75 percent Tamworth meat – the other 25 percent is made with a mix of Berkshire, Lancaster and Duroc. Last month, La Quercia crossed
“Now we have the best prosciutto-year [every year], but 78
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the Americano and Berkshire lines to create a Berkshire Cross, which combines Americano minerality with meaty Berkshire flavor. The heritage breeds used to make its products are what sets La Quercia apart, but once they begin the process of making prosciutto and other dried, cured meats, the method is largely the same as it’s been for centuries. Before modern advancements in refrigeration, the seasons dictated cured meat production. At the beginning of winter, farmers slaughtered pigs, salted the meat and kept it cold throughout the season. By spring, the salt penetrated deep into the muscles, drawing out water. The meat was then warmed and aged throughout the summer. Herb likens the old method of production to winemaking in that some years the prosciutto would simply be better than others depending on the weather. The process is similar today, but modern refrigeration means it’s no longer dependent on Mother Nature. “Now we have the best prosciutto-year [every year], but the process starts every week,” Herb says. TRANSLATING NEW IDEAS La quercia means oak in Italian, and according to Herb, oak trees and their acorns have been associated with premium dry-cured ham for centuries in Italy. Since Iowa’s state tree is also the oak, Herb always wanted to create an oak -finished prosciutto. The company got underway with the oak-finished acorn-edition varietal in 2007, yet the final product has only been sold for the past three and a half years due to a long dry-curing process that takes two-and-a-half to three years. Working in partnership with B&B Farms in Grinnell, Iowa, La Quercia developed a line of acorn-fed Berkshire pigs. The prosciutto, like the pure Berkshire, is deep red with savory flavor, and the acorn feed adds a nutty fragrance and creamy finish. The Eckhouses are also working with Russ Kremer of Heritage Acres to develop a line of acorn Tamworth. Kremer created a rotational grazing system by dividing the oak woods into a large circle with pie-shaped sections. Each week, the pigs move to a different five-acre section on the farm. The acorn-varietal program is continually growing – what started as curing 75 pigs has now grown to 400. The finished product offers Tamworth tenderness with a nutty acorn finish. Considering the success they’ve had so far, the Eckhouses say they’re always interested in working with new heritage breeds. Herb says people have approached him about Large Black and Boston Mountain hogs, but nothing has panned out. His sights are currently set on creating a larger, softer salami popular in Europe that has yet to translate to the American market. After more than a decade in business, it’s safe to say that Herb Eckhouse has proven the Italian naysayers wrong – prosciutto can not only be made in America, it can be made superbly well.
ThE pRoCESS STARTS EvERy WEEk.”
PICTURED LEFT AND RIGHT PAGES: Sugna, a mix of organic cornmeal and lard, is brushed on the portion of hams not protected by skin partway through the aging process to protect the meat from over-drying. Sugna is fully removed before hams leave the facility. According to the company, Italian producers traditionally use a mix of wheat and lard, but La Quercia uses corn as a nod to the Midwest.
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COOKING WITH LA QUERCIA Prosciutto Prosciutto and Foraged Ramps with White Corn Polenta and Crisp Vegetable Salad Recipe by Carrie Nahabedian, chef-owner, Naha Restaurant in Chicago
One of the many chefs who sings La Quercia’s praises is James Beard Foundation awardwinner Carrie Nahabedian, chef-owner of the Michelin-starred NAHA in Chicago. “Herb backs up his products with integrity, a focus on development of new products for the community of chefs to use and professionalism to his craft,” Nahabedian says. In this dish, La Quercia’s prosciutto is combined with farm-fresh eggs, foraged ramps, polenta, goat cheese, watercress and radishes. Since ramps are not in season in October, the same proportion of leeks can be used in their place. According to Nahabedian, this dish requires a good amount of energy and love. Serves | 8 | Polenta extra virgin olive oil
1½ cup white cornmeal 4 cups water 4 oz soft butter salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup heavy cream 4 oz goat cheese 16 pieces ramps or leeks, cleaned and destemmed Eggs and Prosciutto butter ½ lb La Quercia Prosciutto, thinly sliced 8 small pieces goat cheese 8 whole farm eggs salt and freshly ground black pepper water 1 lb radishes, shaved 1 lb watercress extra virgin olive oil (for garnish) chopped parsley (for garnish) red wine vinegar (for garnish)
| Preparation – Polenta | Preheat oven to 350°F. Drizzle ramps with oil and roast in the oven quickly, approximately 5 minutes. Reserve and keep warm. In a small bowl, mix cornmeal with 2 cups cold water. Set aside. In a large saucepot over medium-high heat, heat remaining 2 cups water to a boil, add 2 oz butter and season with salt and pepper. Add cornmeal mixture and, using a heavy wooden spoon so you can reach all corners of the pot, stir mixture vigorously. Cook over medium heat for about 20 minutes, and then add cream and goat cheese. If necessary, you can make the polenta richer by adding remaining butter. Taste and adjust seasoning. Keep warm with a buttered piece of wax paper on top.
| Preparation – Eggs and Prosciutto | Grease a ramekin with butter. Line buttered ramekin with a slice of prosciutto, a small piece of goat cheese and then crack an egg on top into ramekin. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Repeat with 8 remaining eggs in 8 separate ramekins. Bake in a water bath until egg is soft-cooked or “coddled,” approximately 6 minutes. While eggs are cooking, prepare a simple salad of shaved radishes and watercress. Season with a drizzle of oil, chopped parsley and splash of red wine vinegar.
| Assembly | Across 8 plates, spoon a serving of polenta. Carefully remove egg mixture and prosciutto from ramekins and place atop polenta. Top each plate with the crisp vegetable salad.
Prosciutto Americano Lasagna Recipe by Kathy Eckhouse
This light, delicately flavored alternative to traditional Italian lasagne alla bolognese layers rich slices of La Quercia’s prosciutto Americano with homemade white sauce and ricotta filling. Serves | 8 to 10 |
White Sauce 4 Tbsp butter
3 Tbsp all-purpose flour 2 cups milk ½ tsp salt Ricotta Filling water
2 lbs fresh spinach 3 cups high-quality ricotta cheese 2 eggs 1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano salt and freshly ground black pepper Lasagna 23
oz homemade or store-bought
tomato sauce salted water 1 package lasagna noodles white sauce (see below) ½ lb La Quercia prosciutto Americano, sliced into small pieces ricotta filling (see below) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
| Preparation – White Sauce | In a saucepan over medium heat, melt butter, then add flour, stirring constantly, and cook until the ingredients are incorporated. In a small saucepot, add milk and bring to a scalding boil, then slowly pour milk into saucepan with the butter and flour. Add salt and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture achieves the thickness of heavy cream.
| Preparation – Ricotta Filling | In a large saucepot over medium heat, heat water and add spinach until just cooked. Remove spinach from pot. When cool to the touch, place spinach on a paper towel-lined plate and, using a second paper towel, pat spinach to remove water and moisture. Once dry, finely mince spinach. In a large mixing bowl, combine spinach with remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly to form filling. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
| Preparation – Lasagna | Preheat oven to 400°F. In a small saucepot over medium heat, heat tomato sauce until warm. Turn heat down to simmer to keep sauce warm. In a large saucepot over medium heat, heat salted water and cook lasagna noodles according to package instructions. Cook until barely al dente, then drain and allow to cool to the touch.
| Assembly | In the bottom of an oven-proof 9-by-13-inch baking dish, place a thin layer of white sauce, then a thin layer of tomato sauce. Place strips of pasta over top, followed by a layer of prosciutto, then ½ to ¾ of an inch of ricotta filling. Next, add another layer of white and tomato sauces, prosciutto and then pasta. Continue to layer ingredients until baking dish is almost filled, then top dish with a final layer of pasta covered with remaining white and tomato sauces. Sprinkle with grated cheese and place in oven. Cook for 45 minutes or until lasagna is just golden on top.
Ricotta Cheese and Prosciutto Crostini Recipe by Tony Mantuano, chef-partner, Spiaggia and cafe spiaggia in chicago
Tony Mantuano has used La Quercia products for years. In this recipe, he pairs the company’s prosciutto with fresh whole-milk ricotta. Serves | 8 | 1 16-oz container whole milk ricotta cheese 8 lightly toasted 1-inch thick slices halved ciabatta bread 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 16 pieces prosciutto, thinly sliced
| Preparation | Spread 2 Tbsp ricotta on each half slice of ciabatta, transferring each slice to a serving platter as you go. Drizzle olive oil over ricotta and season with salt and pepper. Gently fold 1 slice prosciutto on top of ricotta. Serve.
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PICTURED ABOVE: Scratch Brewing Co. owners Aaron Kleidon, Marika Josephson and Ryan Tockstein. PICTURED TOP RIGHT: The trio of brewers at Scratch Brewing
Co. store foraged ingredients such as nettles, chanterelle mushrooms and lotus seeds in Mason jars, which are on display in the brewery’s tasting room.
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As a teenager, Aaron Kleidon earned money in the summer foraging in the woods near his Southern Illinois home for ginseng and goldenseal and then selling it to a local figure known as the Root Buyer. The Root Buyer, in turn, sold what Kleidon had found directly to families overseas. “I was out in the woods all the time,” Kleidon says. “I saw all these plants many, many times and then started carrying guidebooks with me.” Kleidon doesn’t know what happened to the Root Buyer, but he still forages in the woods around Ava, an Illinois town of some 650 residents a halfhour’s drive northwest of Carbondale. These days, though, Kleidon doesn’t sell the herbs and other edibles he finds. He brews beer with them.
from the ground up
scratch brewing co. turns forest foraging into native ales WRITTen By Ian Froeb
|
pHOTOGRApHy By Demond Meek
Kleidon and partners Marika Josephson and Ryan Tockstein opened Scratch Brewing Co. in March 2013. It’s a unique craft brewery – unique for the region and also unique, period – for many reasons, not least because here you might drink an India pale ale with fresh hickory leaves, a saison with chanterelles or a Baltic porter with maple sap. This summer, the trio brewed a beer with 105 different herbs. Kleidon says this number was inspired partly by liqueurs such as chartreuse, which features 130 botanicals, and partly by the spirit of experimentation. They’d brewed with each herb before, so they knew which ones would contribute to flavor, which to aroma and which to bittering the hops, but never all of them together. “To me,” Kleidon says of the finished result, “it tastes like what the forest is.”
from the forest floor Scratch Brewing Co. looks less like a craft brewery and more like something you’d find in The Hobbit. The single, small building stands in a clearing in the woods a few miles outside of Ava proper. Even with GPS, a city slicker like yours truly is likely to miss one of the turns onto the back roads that lead you there. A gentle hill takes you down past the chicken coop and alongside the garden – heirloom tomatoes (more than 20 varieties) and heirloom apples, garlic, carrots, pears and, in their fourth season and already towering over everything else, four different varieties of hops – across the rustic patio into the tasting room. Dried herbs hang in bunches above the communal tables. Mason jars filled with foraged ingredients line the shelves behind the bar. Covering one wall is an illustration of the Piasa Bird, a dragon-like creature of Native American mythology said to haunt the Mississippi River bluffs. (“Supposedly there was one down on a cliff near here,” Josephson says. “We just thought it was a cool monster and legend.”) Behind the tasting room is a narrow room – bigger than a walk-in closet, but not much bigger – that houses the actual brewing apparatus as well as a prep area for the tasting room’s limited food menu. A side door brings you back outside to the wood-burning oven, modeled after a traditional European hearth. Josephson, Kleidon and Tockstein built almost all of it themselves from scratch, hence the brewery’s name. (They brought in outside help to pour the concrete and do some sheet-metal work; Kleidon’s father, whose background is in construction, helped with the especially technical details.) The environs are such an essential part of Scratch’s identity that I’m shocked to learn that this wasn’t their first choice of location. “There were a couple other places we really liked, and for one reason or another, they fell through,” Josephson says. She mentions a 19th-century brick building in Cobden, Illinois, and another spot outside Murphysboro, Illinois.
“It was probably a year’s process of finding the place we were going to settle into,” she says. “Ultimately I’m glad those [other] things fell through because this is so right for the kind of beer we’re making.” Josephson, a San Diego native who holds a doctorate in philosophy, was working as an editor in New York City when she decided to move to the area in 2009 because her boyfriend was pursuing a doctorate at Southern Illinois University.
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“Coming from New York, I’m used to getting whatever I wanted,” she says. “I moved out here; at that time there was nothing – even the retail store had an absolutely minimal selection of craft beer.” In search of beers like what she’d enjoyed drinking in San Diego and New York, Josephson took up home brewing. Meanwhile, craft beer finally started to creep into area stores. One spot in particular became the hangout for aficionados and home brewers, which is where she met Kleidon and Tockstein. “I actually started out not liking beer at all,” Tockstein admits. “I grew up in Centralia, and just now it’s starting to get to where liquor stores are getting craft beer. Back when I had my first beer, I didn’t think there was anything outside the realm of A-B or MillerCoors. I absolutely hated it.”
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Tockstein discovered the world of beer beyond fizzy yellow lagers when he worked at a grocery store in college. The variety of different beer styles on sale amazed him. He took the plunge with a 12-pack of George Killian’s Irish Red – he wanted the free mug packaged with it – and actually liked the beer. “So then I started to try all the different kinds there,” he says. “Then I found out it was legal to make it at home. I was going to school for physics and was always interested in science. So naturally I just wanted to start making my own.” Kleidon also traces his passion for beer back to college. While spending eight months abroad in Salzburg, Austria, he explored the different styles of German beer and then further broadened
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his palate while traveling through Europe. When he started home brewing, his background foraging and spending time in the woods was an unavoidable influence. “For me, it was more interesting to brew with that stuff,” he says, “so when I started [brewing], I always did.” Still, what you might call the Scratch Brewing ethos wasn’t fixed from the beginning. It evolved as the trio started brewing and working together. “We learned how to brew all the traditional styles first,” Kleidon says. “Once we got to where we could brew a good base beer, we started bittering with different herbs.”
As Josephson home brewed her way through as many different styles as she could, she says: “I was also getting more into sustainable farming and eating local foods from local farmers. That started to permeate my brewing ethos.” She adds: “I think that’s one of the most fun things about any kind of drink, whether it’s beer or wine or other spirits. You can taste the terroir in it.” Before Tockstein met Josephson and Kleidon, he was more interested in brewing beers that hewed closer to classic styles. “I was pretty interested in making a beer that was sourced from ingredients that we could get here in Southern Illinois,” he says, “but that’s about as far
as my interest in foraging and all that stuff went.” The trio’s early experiments didn’t exactly convert Tockstein, either. “Initially, I was kind of opposed to the idea of using all this crazy stuff in the beer,” he says. “Back when we just started out, a lot of the beer wasn’t good. We needed to be able to make beer that was good, period. “But as time went on, I learned more and more about it from both of them and from doing research. It’s amazing what all there is out in the woods to use that most people don’t even know exists. You can find a use for just about everything.”
natural curiosity Scratch Brewing is inherently a work in progress, its beers reliant on a forager’s eye and the whim of the seasons – or even the weather in a given week. This summer, for example, a sudden spell of heat caused the carrots on a nearby organic farm to bolt. Although the carrots were now tough, the trio took them and extracted their flavor to use in a beer. Still, the brewery’s food program is expanding. The first major step in this process was the completion in March of the wood-fired oven in which the trio bakes pizzas and sourdough bread. “I’ve got a pretty deep passion for pizza,” Tockstein says, “so I really enjoy doing that and trying to figure out new pizzas to do. That’s pretty much the same as beer – you have a limitless number of things you can do.” The trio is proceeding slowly, though. “It would be hard to do much more food than we’re already doing without jumping into something a lot bigger,” Josephson explains. “And none of us has restaurant experience. We’re figuring it out as we go along.
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PICTURED TOP RIGHT: Ryan Tockstein pours a glass of beer straight from the tank. PICTURED BOTTOM RIGHT: Aaron Kleidon and Marika Josephson transfer freshly foraged ingredients into Mason jars.
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“But I really want us to be doing more of the food stuff. I’m proud of the fact that 90 percent of our menu comes from local farms and farmers, and our pizza is all stuff from our garden or local farms. I really want to be able to do some fun dinners where we’re sourcing stuff locally.” Although the food menu is limited and the beers aren’t typical, the team has been impressed by the range of customers who visit the tasting room. There are locals, of course, and graduate students and faculty from Carbondale. Curious beer geeks make the not-quite two-hour drive from St. Louis and even the much longer trip from Chicago. Because the trio were already brewing together well before the brewery opened to the public, they were able to build hype by participating in beer festivals in the region, and they’ve received national press in publications such as Draft Magazine, Outside and The Salt, NPR’s food blog. And then there are the merely curious. “There was a couple that came by maybe four months after we opened,” Josephson says. “They’d heard that there was a brewery here. They didn’t know anything about it. They walked in and said, ‘We’re Bud Light drinkers.’” The couple decided to sample a blond beer – about as close to Bud Light as you’ll ever get at Scratch Brewing – and a stout that was not only sour but also a gruit, brewed without hops. Josephson smiles as she remembers the scene. “They went for a goblet of the sour gruit stout.” Ian Froeb is the restaurant critic and beer writer for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch. He has twice been a finalist for the Association of Food Journalists’ “Best Restaurant Criticism” award, and his work has appeared in the Best Food Writing anthology. He lives with his wife and daughter in St. Louis’ Shaw neighborhood.
Go foraging for wild ingredients with the brewers at Scratch and learn about how nature inspires the trio of brewers in the October episode of Feast TV. %PG 88
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PICTURED ABOVE: Crispy Egg: tripe, chipotle and bacon hush puppies.
masterpiece in the making: behind the scenes of ryan brazeal’s
novel
WriTTeN By Jonathan Bender
|
pHOTOGrApHy By Landon Vonderschmidt
chef ryan brazeal tears off three strips of blue painter’s tape, laying them down in a neat “H” shape on one of the two stainless-steel tables that are the center of his kitchen at Novel. The top half of the “H” frames out a cluster of white ceramic bowls, each filled with a different garnish, while the crossbar will hold down white tickets with diners’ orders. The tape is the first in a series of precise steps that herald the coming of the dinner service, which Brazeal, 38, won’t begin conducting for another hour on this warm Tuesday night in August. Inspired Local Food Culture
OCTOBER 2014
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one of the biggest lessons at momofuku was “don‘t be afraid to make mistakes.”
PICtureD ABove: Duroc Pork Chop:
pork belly ragu, rice späetzle and baby bok choy.
“I never want somebody to look into the kitchen and see everything looking frantic,” Brazeal, clad in a black Kansas City Royals ball cap, explains. And people do want to look into the kitchen. They want to see the chef who worked at David Chang’s Má Pêche and Geoffrey Zakarian’s Country, who returned home to Kansas City in 2012 to finally be his own boss. And they can see Brazeal. It’s only 10 feet from the end of the bar to the dishwasher – the border marked by the transition from the wood floor to the yellow and black checkerboard tiles. And herein lies the challenge for a chef that wants his food to be his statement – how do you get people to see your vision without constantly putting yourself in front of them? Brazeal is a man trapped by the current expectations
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that the Food Network has helped create for our chefs. As Novel’s reputation grows, he is expected to lay more of himself bare, even as he wants people to find their connection with him through what’s on their plates. Novel – both the restaurant and the menu – are his compromise and his attempt to try and be recognized on his terms. But to understand the restaurant and the menu, you’ll have to look beyond what you see in the kitchen. Prologue to Novel Brazeal still has touches of the skate punk that he was at 24 years old – thin arms, corded with muscle, a sardonic sense of humor and the kind of fashion sense that comes from not caring about trends. In 2001, he was the
room service cook at the now-shuttered Hyatt Regency Crown Center in Kansas City, working solitary 8-hour days on a line the size of his current restaurant. But his isolation came with benefits: the chance to experiment when room service orders weren’t arriving and a desire to move into a kitchen where he could learn from those around him.
70 restaurants. He learned to taste while he cooked on the garde manger station at Stone Park Cafe in Brooklyn (he would return for a second stop as chef de cuisine four years later). A 10-month stint at the then brand-new Nobu Fifty Seven brought him back to the world of high-volume cooking, cranking out plates for a 350-seat dining room.
He would spend three-and-a-half years at the Hyatt, working his way up to the (now shuttered) restaurants Peppercorn Duck Club and Skies, while he earned his culinary degree from Johnson County Community College. Two weeks after graduating in 2004, Brazeal moved to New York City.
“I gravitated toward opening restaurants because there’s not a lot of established systems,” Brazeal says.
He lived there for nearly a decade – staging on his days off at, by his count, more than
His kitchen commitment was forged under Doug Psaltis at Country, where celebrities including Steve Martin and Tim Robbins would come to praise the chefs that prepared the 12-course tasting menu served in the opulent Carlton Hotel.
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Celebrating Our 8 Year Anniversary! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! "To Eat Well is To Live Well" Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion or Office Meetings Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials
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*Limit one per table. Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday
5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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when brazeal returned to kansas city, he knew he wanted to be downtown.
“It had a reputation as a tough kitchen, and people respected me for having been there for a year,” Brazeal says. “But I really learned about economy of motion and fluidity.”
“One of the biggest lessons at Momofuku was ‘Don’t be afraid to make mistakes,’ but yet, we weren’t constantly changing things just for the sake of changing them,” Brazeal says.
He also learned how to push his limits. When he next helped to open (the now closed) Allen & Delancey, he worked from 10am to 1am for 56 days straight out of the basement kitchen on the Lower East Side. His final job in New York, as a sous chef at Má Pêche, is the one people in Kansas City first mention (and what provided some of the Asian touches that dot the Novel menu). For 16 months, he exchanged ideas with other chefs in the Momofuku universe and thought about how to meld Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai ingredients.
When Brazeal returned to Kansas City, he knew he wanted to be Downtown – it was where he had skated, and it was what had the right feel for the kind of restaurant he wanted to build. The goal was to forge a connection with local farmers, creating familiar flavors and pushing them in a new direction. Novel took shape over six months, between January and July of 2013.
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“Novel is a name that’s hard to live up to,” Brazeal says. “I hope that it transcends the literal translation. For now, we keep pushing ourselves.”
The NexT ChapTer Four men – Tyler Gallagher, Noah Gough, Milton Chamberlain and Brazeal – crack eggs, slice turnips, roll out pasta dough and say nothing in the kitchen at Novel for 35 minutes straight. It’s hard-won silence, the result of working together for more than 13 months in a space where one stretches up rather than out in order to avoid the hot griddle or the knife of the cook next to you. “What can I do to make the machine run as smooth as possible?” Brazeal asks. “Everybody in this kitchen is always thinking, ‘How can I expedite better?’ and ‘How can I do this faster?’” Each night at 5pm, he and general manager Richard Garcia sit down with the front of the house to
discuss reservations and any changes to the menu, which should be seen collectively as a tasting menu. “New American is kind of a catchall, but this is New American cuisine,” Brazeal says of the food at Novel. “We focus on seasonal and local, Midwest and American. I never wanted to be fusion. Food is about memories. We take duck necks and foie gras and Chinese Five Spice [in the pork neck dumplings], and it evokes the memory of a pot sticker.” The menu only lists ingredients – it never names the dish that either served as inspiration or will be at the tip of a customer’s tongue. The Pig Head Pie is ostensibly a deconstructed banh mi, but it’s up to the eater whether or not the connection is made.
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i never wanted novel to be about ryan brazeal; it’s about the experience and hospitality.
PICTURED ABOVE: Rabbit Sausage: red rice, crawfish and jalapeños.
“It’s a Rubik’s Cube; we don’t repeat ingredients unless it’s something really special like heirloom tomatoes,” Brazeal says of the menu. “If we need to change one thing, that ends up jumbling up the whole menu. We constantly have to think about a limited amount of ingredients and where they fit into the menu.” Novel opened with 12 dishes on the menu – only the Crispy Egg and Duroc Pork Chop remain. Today, Brazeal serves nine appetizers, six entrées and three sides. “The Crispy Egg fits all the requirements for a Novel dish,” he says. “We’re using a funky ingredient in tripe. We manipulate it in a way that’s delicious. It’s almost like a frisée lardon salad, but it’s got a Mexican bent with chipotle.”
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While a server wipes clean the window on the door, Brazeal mops the checkerboard floor. It is the first of eight passes he will make with the mop over the next five hours. “I have never in my life worked in a kitchen like this,” Brazeal says. “The kids don’t even have to talk. They just know what I would do.” As dishes begin to leave the kitchen, hostess Blue McNeil reports back with walk-in numbers and the quirks of service (a table of two has devoured seven ramekins of butter). Brazeal displays an easy facility for remembering his diners’ last visits. It helps that he can hold a series of numbers in his head like a rotating train schedule – flipping through reservations, the status of a given table and the number of covers (50 in total) the
restaurant will do on a Tuesday night in August. The black and white schoolhouse clock ticks toward 7pm, and the ticket machine comes to life. Brazeal begins to call out orders in waves. He marks each ticket with a carpenter’s pencil, pulled from a Mason jar with a sticker that says “People love us on Yelp.” “I never wanted Novel to be about Ryan Brazeal; it’s about the experience and hospitality,” Brazeal says. “I don’t cook during service; I expedite. But every single plate goes through me.” A convoy of 11 plates is ready to fly in 120 seconds after the first ladle of sauce. Brazeal runs out the last two to a server waiting at the edge of the dining room, a chance for him to peek in on the tables himself.
It is then, when Brazeal is most visible to the diners, that Novel is revealed as the physical manifestation of his values. In service and the kitchen, it has become a place where precision is used to attain beauty. Gallagher picks up a broom and cleans the squares behind Brazeal as Chamberlain calls out the next set of orders. Bread is sliced, not for the tables currently seated, but for the ones that are due to arrive in the next 10 minutes. Brazeal stands still with his left hand holding his right wrist and his lips slightly pursed, hoping you’ll see him in Novel, rather than worry about trying to catch a glimpse of him in the kitchen.
Get into the kitchen at Novel and learn what inspires chef-owner Ryan Brazeal in the October episode of Feast TV.
YOU’LL HAVE THE TIME OF YOUR LIFE.
THE FOX THEATRE
OCTOBER 21 - NOVEMBER 2
314-534-1111 or MetroTix.com
Delivering coffee beans monthly from St. Louis’ best roasters The Flyover Coffee Club is a great way to enjoy St. Louis’ best coffee (and tea). Coffee beans (or tea leaves) are delivered directly to your door on a monthly basis and, in the case of coffee, within days of roasting. All of the coffee included in the club is roasted by Missouri-based small-batch roasters who care about coffee as something beyond a commodity. The club currently includes coffee from Blueprint, Kuva, Stringbean, Riley’s, and La Cosecha. The tea club is curated by The London Tea Room
314.827.5503 • flovercoffee.com
“A Big Easy Murder”
Interactive Comedy Mystery Dinner Theater It’s Nawlins’! The Big Easy! Bitsy Jones is getting her crew together to plan their float for the Mardi Gras Parade! Carlos Violincello, the well know mobster and concert violinist, is paying for everything. What can go wrong? Plenty! No wonder Bitsy ends up dead! The pirates John Lafeet and his wench, Anne Bonny, try to figure out who did it. Play your part in this interactive comedy murder mystery while enjoying a 4-course meal to DIE for! Make your reservations now; it would be a CRIME to miss out on this much FUN! Call for Reservations 314-533-9830.
Bring in this ad for $10 off per person. Valid through October 2014. Not Valid with groups.
4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com
Birkenstock womens shoes at Le Shoe! Best Selection of Birkenstock shoes and sandals, only at LeShoe! The Finest European Footwear and Accessories for the Active Woman, the Business Woman, the Fun & Fasionable Woman in You! LeShoe carries all the hottest brands that look and feel great. Birkenstock, Alegria, Arche, Gabor, Beautifeel, Dansko, Naot, Taos, Domedaris, Fly London Footwear and Anuschka hand bags. Check out the coolest, latest fall collections. Monday-Saturday 10a - 6p & Sunday 12p - 5p
2538 S. Brentwood Blvd • Brentwood, MO • 314.963.1300 • le-shoe.com Inspired Local Food Culture
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LET’S SHARE A PINT! Beer festivals and seasonal ales are on tap heavily in October, so this month we invited our Instagram followers to share a pint (or two) with us by tagging any and all Midwest craft beer photos with the hashtag #feastgram. Tap into more regional brewery stories by turning to p. 82, where we profile the forest-foraged beers made at Scratch Brewing Co. in Ava, Illinois, or pore through the Drink section (p. 31) for features on Logboat Brewing Co. in Columbia, Missouri, and Cinder Block Brewery in Kansas City, Missouri.
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| 1 | MELISSA FALLER
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@melissapocket New brewery in North KC! #CinderBlockBrewery
| 2 | RYAN ARCHER @RyanRArcher Oh hey, I stumbled upon Alpha Brewing Co. It’s downtown, right next to City Museum. I still haven’t gotten to try any of their beers. #STL #StLouis | 3 | KEvIN YouNg @kevinmcyoung Local Springfield, Illinois brewery. #RollingMeadows Brewery #Petersburg #Illinois
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| 4 | JoE CuRTIS @joseph.curtis.1460 #Boulevard #Beer #KansasCity #Beautiful | 5 | CHRISTIAN F. STEWART @cstewart13 Vanilla Noir. Initially it smelled like a sour. Poured into an oversized wine glass and now I’m getting a ton of sweet #vanilla. A bit overcarbed, flavor is pretty good though. Good amount of vanilla with a long lingering aftertaste. #Prairie #Oklahoma | 6 | ZoE HASTERT @zhastert Flights. #4HandsBrewingCo #StLouis
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| 7 | JAMIE AYDT @jhopkinsa Post-work pit stop. #CivilLife #Beer #Friday
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| 8 | EMILY SuZANNE MCDoNALD @emmysu Yum yum yum #UrbanChestnut makes some delicious eats. Such a treat to shoot with their chef. I’ll be posting pics on my blog soon. | 9 | BRIAN DoTY @brian_doty Lake Party Weekend. #Boulevard #Beer | 10 | AARoN BALoNEY @calibaloney Beer, beer and more beer! #CrownValleyBrewery
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| 10 | Want to see your photos in the November issue of Feast? Next month we’re obsessed with all things pie, from fresh ingredients – think apples, berries, pecans and more – to the final baked-at-home products to the pies you’re buying at your favorite local pie shops. To submit your photos for consideration, simply include the hashtag #feastgram and tag @feastmag on your Instagram photos beginning Oct. 1.
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PHOTOGRAPHY COURTeSY OF Instagram users
#feastgram
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Cheers to Craft Beers!
We’ve got it all from craft beers to microbrews including an impressive selection brewed right here in St. Louis! In fact, we partner with Schlafly for our exclusive seasonal beers like Culinaria Schlafly Raspberry Coffee Stout. We’re proud to carry beers from some of the most respected brewers including 4 Hands Resurrected IPA, Schlafly Pale Ale and Bell’s Two Hearted Ale. Don’t forget to ask about ordering barrels or kegs for parties. Check in-store for craft beer tastings and events!
For our a list of our Certified Beer Servers and locations, visit schnucks.com And, follow Certified Cicerone® Chris Kline @SchnucksBeerGuy! 100
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